DARE TO BE
nOVEMBER 2017 Page 1
Cover Photo by @jajajay_
Instagram photo by @laurenlewis
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CONTENTS. 4
Top 10 Curly Hair Hacks
10 Interview with YouTuber & Curly Girl: Ayesha Malik
15 5 Do’s and Dont’s to Deep Conditiong 19
What It’s Like To Be The Only Curly Girl
22 Interview with Naturalista: Nikita Sander 26 High/Low Curl Defining Products 29
A guide to Protective Styles Page 3
10 Curly Hair Essentials Curly hair hacks that will help you maintain your beautiful textured hair
G
oing from straightening my hair every two weeks to working with my natural curls everyday, my hair journey has definitely been a challenge in more ways than one. But at the end of the day, I know that keeping my hair in its natural state is the healthiest option. It also helps me learn to love every aspect of myself in its rawest natural form. The curly journey is not for the faint of heart. From daily detangling to trying to seal in that moister your hair is craving, maintaining strong beautiful curls is a part-time job in itself. Here are the most useful hacks the in my natural hair journey.
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1.WASH AND STYLE YOUR HAIR IN SECTIONS Sectioning off your mane will allow you to easily distribute your product. Better product application means not only better hair coverage, better hairstyles, and less frizz, but also better moisturized hair, which means less breakage and length retention (Curly Hair Lounge). The last thing you want to do is neglect parts of your hair. Spreading the love and care around is the best way to promote hair growth. Combating breakage is also a good reason to separate your hair into smaller sections. More
manageable, smaller sections allows you to focus on gently getting all the knots out. Especially for those of you with a lot of hair – it can be a bit overwhelming when you are trying to work your way through your hair. “Although, tangles and knots are expected, you can make things worse if you try to manipulate your hair all in one go when styling or detangling. Working through sections will ensure you minimize these and avoid frequent hair trims to fix an unsightly look that can easily progress to hair breakage.” – Monica, Curly Hair Lounge 2. COMB HAIR FROM END TO ROOT! As Caitlin Corsetti from, Gurl.com says: As a curly girl, your mortal enemy is frizzy hair. Do
yourself and your hair a favor by throwing out the brush and picking up the wide-tooth comb The right tool is the most important aspect of getting those knots out of your locks. If you’re not using into your fingers, invest in a wide-tooth comb. Detangling can be a nightmare with a regular paddle brush or small comb. You are essentially pulling out your hair with hair utensils that are simply not made for every hair type in mind! When you are ready to detangle, slowly work your way through your sectioned hair from end first to root. Especially if your hair consists of different textures, take your time with combing out your hair. The last thing you would want to do is break off your fragile ends. 3. DRY YOUR HAIR WITH A T-SHIRT -- NOT TOWEL No need to throw out those ugly training t-shirts or cotton shirt that you just won’t wear... ever. Save them for your wet hair. Cotton is
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The curly journey is not actually a lot better for you hair than a towel.
sections and very carefully remove any frayed ends.
According to sources at Naturally Curly, how you get from wet to dry hair is crucial the state of curls you’ll be forced to live with throughout the day. Drying your hair with a standard towel, can absorb too much moisture and rough up the cuticles, causing extra frizz. (Kristin Collins Jackson, Bustle)
Naturally Curly recommends trimming your curls while they are damp, dusting instead of trimming (only cutting off as little as possible), and using the search and destroy method. This method involves searching for single, damaged strands and cutting off the split ends, rather than doing an overall trim. (Jessica Mousseau)
4. TRIM ENDS REGULARLY It’s not as counterproductive as it may seem. Often times, your hair is not growing as much or is struggling to curl because of ragged ends. Examine your hair for split ends, and emotionally part with them: they gotta go! You’re going to need sharp professional shears -regular blunt scissors will do more damage than good. Tie your hair into
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5. GEL AND TIE DOWN EDGES FOR 10-15 minutes BEFORE LEAVING, FOR LAID NON-FRIZZY EDGES All you need is a silk scarf, a bit of edge control, a tooth brush, and 10 minutes. Laying down your edges is not a simple art -- but it’s so easy if you get the hang of it. With an old cleaned toothbrush, take your favourite gel and brush any frizz down -- then cover for a short time with your silk scarf. Before you know it, those frizzes are behaving! 6. DEEP CONDITION WITH HEAT Using heat is almost a dirty word if you have textured hair! No judgment, but use heat sparingly. Using heat to condition is an exception to the
for the faint of heart... rule. Why heat? According to Carving Yellow, it lifts hair cuticles, allowing all the good stuff to be absorbed into our strands when conditioning. It can also enhance the absorption of the products themselves. For example, if a deep conditioning treatment is oil/butter based, heat can be used to break down fat molecules so that they are small enough to be absorbed.
c) Body Heat All you have to do for this method: apply your conditioner and let you natural heat do the work for you. 7. USE A STORE BAG INSTEAD OF A SHOWER CAP
a) Steamer
8. APPLE CIDER VINEGAR RINSES
Whilst sitting under a hooded dryer with a moisturizing deep conditioner without a plastic cap, moister is allowed to infuse into your hair. If your hair is really dry and is prone to damage, using moist heat can bring relief.
Vinegar is often used for
Source POPSUGAR Photography / Benjamin Stone
Tabitha from Carving Yellow also presents 3 different methods for using heat when you are conditioning:
Finding a use for the hundreds of store bags you may have lying around your home, is an added bonus to finding a cheap alternative to finding a shower cap for your conditioning routine. You may look a little silly, but hopefully you decide to stay instead for the hour or so of deep conditioning.
b) Dry Heat This method consists of sitting under a hooded dryer with a moisturizing conditioner and a plastic cap. Dry heat vaporizes the moisture on and around our hair and lifts our cuticles, allowing the product to be better absorbed.
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cleaning. But apple cider vinegar is really essential in a curly girl’s beauty routine. It is packed with tons of nutrients all of which include B vitamins, vitamin C and potassium.
acid, which gently exfoliates the scalp and hair, allowing for removal of dead skin cells and build up that can occur from sweat and/or conventional hair products. 9. ADD OIL TO YOUR CONDITIONER FOR EASIER DETANGLING
It even has properties that restore your hair, back to its natural pH. It smooths hair cuticles on contact, as well as cleanses any excess dirt or oil. Amazing, right?! According to Coconut and Kettle Belles, Apple cider vinegar also contains natural alpha-hydroxy
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This little trick helps curly and kinky hair to get the added moister that it needs. The purpose of oil is actually not for the moister. Adding oil to your conditioner is to lock in that moister the water provides. As Curly Nikki says, anything that is going to help improve water retention in the hair is
ideal for dry textured hair. Oils that work, depending on what you hair likes of course, include: coconut oil, Jamaican black castor oil, grapeseed oil, and jojoba oil. 10. DO NOT WASH EVERYDAY, USE CONDITIONER INSTEAD Curly hair is naturally dry, and shampooing your hair too often
tends to make it brittle by washing out the natural oils your curls need to stay in tact. When you do shampoo you hair (which should be no more than a few times a week), keep the lather close to your scalp, and let the excess soapy water take care of the tresses. (Zoe Weiner,
Bustle).
Images source Pinteerest
Let your natural oils reach your tips by leaving your hair be for at least 2 weeks. You can also buy affordable pre-poo or low-poo products to keep your curls clean and flourished.
Source Total Beauty
Source Instagram @raisacarminatti
Rinse your hair with an apple cider vinger and baking soda mix, and then condition your hair on wash days (cowash).
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LOOK INSIDE
Ayesha Malik
YouTuber, Ayesha Malik gave us the pleasure of getting to know her and her glorious hair. She is a proud Pakistan-born curly girl, who was raised in Alaska. We fell in love with her online presence and the way she embraces her natural locks. Subscribe to her self-entitled YouTube channel for tutorials and follow her on Instagram @spisha, for hair inspiration.
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1. How would you describe your hair?
S
ome people would describe my hair as “Disney Princess Hair”. If my younger self knew that one day her frizzy, unruly hair would be considered “perfect”, she would not believe you! If I had to describe my hair in one word, it would be: nourished. 2. If you believe in the curl classification system, what is your pattern classified under? I have 3A curls with low porosity.
I spent the last decade healing my hair from damage that was caused by chronic straightening and bleaching. I hated being a Women of Colour growing up so I tried to white-wash myself. The day I started to embrace my South Asian identity was also the day I started my natural hair journey. 4. What do you love about your hair? I sometimes stumbled across comments online from people who say that my hair is curled with a curling iron/tong. It’s crazy to read how there are strangers out there who wholeheartedly believe that I fake my curls everyday. It’s quite absurd, but I take their skepticism as compliments.
3. Have you always embraced your natural hair? I have not always embraced my natural hair. I would wash my hair at night and then blow dry it straight. Then I would wake up for school and go over my fairly straighten hair with a hair straightening iron. I did this everyday from the age of thirteen to sixteen. One day, I could not straighten my hair and had to go to school with wet hair. It air dried and curls started to emerge. I heard some boys whispering behind me in class, talking about my hair, so I got a hall pass and went to the restroom to see what they were talking about. I looked at myself in the mirror and thought, “this is me, this is who I am supposed to look like”.
Source Instagram @spisha
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“The day I started to embrace my South Asian identity was also the day I started my natural hair journey” What I love about my hair is how it makes other curly girls feel. So many of them hate what grows out of their heads. And some of them see me and think, my hair can look like that! I get messages all the time from girls who say I have inspired them to throw away their straighteners. I am happy to inspire others to embrace their natural selves. 5. What are some of the challenges? A challenge I face with my curly hair is the amount of time and effort I have to dedicate on its upkeep. I can only wash it twice a week. I am constantly deep conditioning and applying different oils to keep it healthy. My routine is kinda intense. It takes me 40 minutes to diffuse my hair and then I air dry for an additional hour. To make it worse, I diffuse upside down by plopping my hair onto a microfiber towel! This has helped create strong back muscles.
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6. What is your current curly hair routine? I follow the Curly Girl Method: I don’t use lathering shampoos, I avoid heat, brushing dry hair, and ingredients like sulfates, silicones, parabens, and alcohol. I use gels, not cremes for my hair, because my curls need extra hold. They end up looking crunchy once fully dry. I scrunch in some argan oil and they end up looking super soft! 7. Have you found any amazing products that worked wonders for you? Amazing products that have worked wonders for me happen to have Jamaican Black Castor Oil in them. I like Shea Moisture’s and Tropic Isle Living’s JBCO Conditioner. 8. What are your dos and don’ts for curly hair? DO sleep with a satin pillow case DON’T bleach or apply heat to your hair 9. Who is your celebrity hair goal? My celebrity hair goals is Annie Khalid (@ anniecurli). She is a Pakistani singer that many girls like me look up to. I honestly cannot name another Pakistani celebrity who embraces her natural hair the way that she does. Annie Khalid is bold!
If my younger self knew that one day her frizzy, unruly hair would be considered “perfect�, she would not believe you
Source Instagram @spisha
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5
Do’s and Dont’s to Deep Conditiong Perfect for the drying cold weather seasons
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1 2 3 Page 16
Provided by Naturally Curly.com
4 5 May your mane grow and your skin glow
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Source Tumblr @ Honey Carly
y
What It’s Like To Be The Only Curly Girl
I
n North America more women (and men) are embracing their natural hair texture, saying no to relaxers and straighteners in exchange for coconut oil and satin pillow sheets. But this is not the case in every society around the world. In many parts of Asia, the Middle East, and Africa, straight hair is still seen as the pinnacle of beauty. Flat ironing and putting chemicals that “relax” your hair are just as popular as fair and lovely bleaching cremes, and are still widely used despite the numerous health hazards associated with them. For far too long our curls, which are often referred to as frizzy, have been used as an example of the before in a before and after shampoo commercials. If your curls are tighter than loose waves, you won’t be represented at all in these societies. My curls come from my North African roots. Though not all
Egyptians have curly hair, many do, but few have embraced it and even fewer in society are able to see the beauty in the natural state of their hair. I recall a few years ago I experienced what I called as a teenager, “curly hair hate”. I was flying to Egypt to attend my cousin’s wedding.I knew going to Egypt, there was going to be a curly hair bias. I remember telling my brother that I’d be keeping my hair curly at the wedding, regardless of how hard everyone tried to get me to straighten it, and I was serious about it. What I wasn’t prepared for was how seriously ridiculous this idea of me wanting to keep my hair curly at a wedding was to my cousins and family members. It almost felt like it was not an option for me to possibly think I would not straighten my hair for her event. The negotiation that was presented to me was that they would straighten it and have the
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stylist create big curls with a styling tool, that way I’d still have “curly hair”. The guilt I felt for upsetting my cousin by wearing my curls at her wedding unfortunately caused me to give in and agree to have the stylist straighten my hair. Everyone loved it but me. No amount of compliments on how beautiful I looked convinced me that the burning of my hair was more precious or beautiful than my curls. The wedding finally ended at 6am the next morning and by 6:45am, I was back in my suite. I headed straight to the bathtub, water transforming me back to my curly haired self.
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Fast forward three months after my cousins wedding, I’m at a hair salon in Cairo with my aunt. I’m waiting for her to finish, when the manger who also happened to be the senior stylist, approached me and asked me if I was ready to relax my hair. I corrected him and let him know I wasn’t here to get anything done to my hair, I was just waiting for my aunt. “Are you sure? I can relax your hair and it’ll be as straight as this young ladies’ hair” He was pointing to another girl with relaxed hair. I reassured them I was fine. But a few moments later he approaches me again and tells me that it won’t be an expensive process.
“I trusted God’s understanding of beauty” I begin to get really irritated that this point, specifically because the thought that I might be happy with my curls never occurred to him. His assumption was: either I would be worried he wouldn’t be able to really straighten my hair or that the cost would be too high.
suited my face better: that’s why I was created with curls.
The third time he came, he told me he believed that I’d look better with straight hair.
There is still quite a bit of way to go before we see other parts of the world see the beauty of curly and kinky hair.
I let him know that I trusted God’s understanding of beauty and that God knew what
The stylist left me alone after I brought God into the conversation. But it goes to show the very strong and ingrained bias our homelands still have towards textured hair.
Copy: Iman Mounib
Source Instagram @frogirlginny
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LOOK INSIDE
Nikita Sander
Toronto native and soon-to-be doctor, Nikita (@_herbelle_) is a curly queen with a passion for heath, the environment, and, of course, her beautiful hair. If hair inspiration isn’t enough, the healthy food and photography on her feed are stunning as well. She is truly inspirational online and IRL.
Images source Instagram @_herbelle_
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How would you describe your hair?
M
y hair, or better yet, my mane is a combination of kinks, curls, coils, frizz and a whole lot of knots from time to time. Each curl is unique and differs from the one neighbouring it. My mane has a mind and fabulous life of its own. It has seen both good days and blah days. What is your pattern classified under? While I don’t often like to box my curls into a rigid category, I suppose it most closely fits 3c with a touch of 4a. Prior to this, I initially had no idea what hair porosity meant until good ol’ Google clued me in and so I put my hair to the test! Go figure…my hair is considered low porosity. WOMP WOMP! No surprise there as I’ve always struggled with dry spells. Have you always embraced your natural hair? It’s no secret that I did not always embrace my natural curls. In fact, I grew up
resenting them and tried everything in my power to hide them. More than anything, I hated the volume, the puff! It sounds crazy, I know. From elementary school and up to my early 20s, I happily showered my mane with chemicals and perm.
“I Was So Desperate For Straight Hair, That I Would ... Iron Out My Kinks…I Literally Used A Clothing Iron!”
water log ride…let’s just say I cried real tears the moment I thought my perm was ruined. At one point during my preteen years I was so desperate for straight hair, that I would visit my best friend each morning before school to help me iron out my kinks…I literally used a clothing iron! It took years of cornrows, perms, heat damage and three big chops for me to finally see the beauty in my natural mane. It also took years of experimenting with curly hair products for me to find the right routine for my hair, which truthfully, I still struggle with. I did not grow up in a time where social media and influencers were everywhere, nor did I have anyone else around me who also had hair like mine. What is your biggest challenge?
I clearly remember the joy of my first perm at age twelve: grinning from ear to ear, dying to show it off. I was so ecstatic that I vowed to never wash my hair again so it could remain bone straight.
I believe my biggest challenge growing up, was growing up in a time when curly hair wasn’t really a thing, and therefore, was not catered to in the hair product industry. It was not celebrated the way it is now.
Then, the following day my mother took me to Canada’s Wonderland where, of course my hair was drenched after a
What do you love about it? I have officially been natural for five years. Now just the
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thought of straightening my hair distresses me.
time (and money) spent on deep conditioners.
Although I could do without the hours spent detangling, washing and deep conditioning, I love every curl, coil, kink and frizzy bit. I love how my mane has become a conversation piece and my masterpiece.
What is your current curly hair routine?
While my hair does not define me, it is still a part of my identity, which I have learned to embrace. What are some of the challenges? Moisture remains my biggest challenge. My hair frequently experiences dry spells, which also lead to split ends and breakage, especially during the dreaded winter months. This means more
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I like to keep my routine simple and fuss-free. I wash approximately every 5-7 days using Deva Curl No-Poo Decadence or occasionally Deva Curl Buildup Buster. When I’m desperate to get rid of buildup, I’ll also use Mixed Chicks Clarifying Shampoo because it still has some sulphate in it, which, despite its bad rep, sure does the trick for buildup. I try to deep condition, if not every week, at least biweekly using Deva Curl Melt into Moisture or any of the Shea Moisture deep conditioning products. I then use
Deva Curl One Condition Decadence as a leave in. To style my curls, I’ve recently started experimenting with a product called Kinky Coily by Love Ur Curls (LUS), a local Toronto brand, and I absolutely love the results. It provides a lasting, strong hold without the buildup, flaking and stiffness other products may cause. Also, while I do occasionally use oils my hair, I use them sparingly as they can create a moisture barrier, preventing my hair’s natural oil production from nourishing my curls. When I do indulge in oils, I’ll use a cocktail of water,
coconut oil, castor oil and a few drops of lavender essential oil in a spray bottle, and then mist my curls, especially the dry bits at the ends. What are your dos and don’ts for curly hair? Do’s for curly hair: • DO embrace it! Love your curls and they will love you back! • DO slather your curls with moisture often • DO deep condition often and trim regularly • DO co-wash • DO use oils sparingly • DO avoid silicone and parabens in hair products.
Don’ts for curly: • DON’T be afraid of big chops • DON’T cling onto damaged ends • DON’T give up on your natural hair journey • DON’T allow anyone to disrespect your mane! Who is your celebrity hair goals? Alicia Keys Sza Tracee Ellis Ross Nia The Light (aka Fro Girl Ginny) IG: @niathelight • Britney Watkins IG:@ bwatuwant • • • •
While my hair does not define me, it is still a part of my identity, which I have learned to embrace.
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Source Instagram @claire_most
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High/ Low Curl Defining Products
1 3 5
Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie $14 CAD
Miss Jessie’s Coily Custard, $14 CAD
Kinky-Curly Curling Custard, $25 CAD
7
DevaCurl SuperCream Coconut Curl Styler, $49 CAD
2
Dark and Lovely Au Naturale Anti-Shrinkage Coil Moisturizing Soufflé, $8 CAD
6 8 9
Curls Curl Gelles’C, $9 CAD
Eco Styler Olive Oil Styling Gel, $6 CAD
Creme Of Nature Argan Buttermilk Leave-In Hair Milk, $8 CAD
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Source Instagram @SupremeCurlz
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The Art of the Protective Styles
W
and fearfully). All that struggle because you forgot one important step...Protective styling.
Like a beautiful coveted flower, natural hair needs a lot of attention and protection. Making the transition can be tedious, and at times it will feel like you aren’t getting anywhere with it.
While having your curls and coils out on display for the whole world to see is refreshing and mad cute, you need to put it away every once in a while and let that seed ferment and grow.
You’ll get used to the beautiful curls and you’ll start looking for length. You deep condition and massage your scalp, you try the inversion method and LOC method and still you aren’t reaching past your nape or shoulders. You’ll even trim your ends every so often and still no progress (hesitantly
I know you’ve heard of it before but here’s a quick break down: protective styling is any style that tucks away those ends to prevent breakage, and stops you from over manipulating your hair, which will help with growth. And no, box braids aren’t your only option; there are several styles you can use.
Source Pinterest
ant your natural hair to flourish? You need protective styling.
Here are a few examples of protective styles for every length and every level of patience/effort.
First things first, we need to get over our qualm with fake hair during our natural journey.
can be super helpful if done right. Wigs are amazing because they give you access to your beautiful hair every night when you take your unit off. Meaning you can maintain your routine while covering your hair and rotating a few styles into your every day look.
Wearing a wig or a weave does nothing but add to the natural hair experience, and
Now wigs, especially good ones (meaning lace fronts that are pre-customized)
Wigs
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Like a beautiful coveted flower, natural hair needs a lot of attention and protection
can be expensive, but just make sure to look at your options when purchasing. Shop around and know you’re getting a lifesaver when it comes to those mornings when you’ve forgotten to sleep in your bonnet.
Buns Believe it or not, your favorite basic bun is a protective style. Keeping those ends away from the elements can definitely be cute, as long as you aren’t scooping your hair up too tight. Don’t damage those follicles. And do yourself a favor and moisturize those ends before tucking them away in a high bun and give your ends another opportunity to soak in some moisture.
Twists and braids This is the main protective style you may have heard of, and no matter your preconceived notions about them, this is the ideal styling.
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Source Instagram @steffany_borges
Twisting or braiding after wash day, seals in your moisture, keeps your ends away, and keeps hair in manageable sections so you don’t need to manipulate as long as they’re in. Twists and braids can be kept in for some time if you know how to maintain them. Find your type, and get into it, because the ease of having twists and braids is parallel only to the joy of seeing that perfectly defined curl or coil after putting in your conditioner.
Get creative! Protective style are any in which your ends are tucked away, and the opportunity for manipulating the hair is minimal, so the sky really is the limit when it comes to finding your protective style. And there isn’t anything a little Pinterest or Youtube search can’t help with. Copy: Victoria Abolarinde
Images source Pinterest
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