M PRO
FOR THOSE THAT WORK AND PLAY OUTDOORS
WWW.MOUNTAINPROMAG.COM OCTOBER 2015
ANDY KIRKPATRICK has the fear
Skiing for Mountaineers Women’s Climbing in 2015
■ LUCY CREAMER ■ MINA LESLIE-WUJASTYK ■ HARDSHELLS ■ LIGHTING ■ SAFETY GEAR
Welcome Contributors Andy Kirkpatrick is a climber, a speaker and without a doubt one of Britain’s, and climbing’s best writers – not so bad for a dyslexic from Hull. www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/
Alison Culshaw holds the BASI International Ski Teacher Diploma (Level 4) and has been teaching skiing in Chamonix since 2004. She works as a trainer on BASI Mountain Safety courses, and offers CPD to the British Mountain Guides. www.offpiste.org.uk
We all know that the mountains are agnostic about the personal and societal challenges we bring to them, and this issue of Mountain Pro is really about the learning that follows, as we work out how to shed some baggage and instead celebrate shared aims and experiences. Firstly, a focus on women in climbing, which wasn’t entirely orchestrated - sometimes the stars align, and our interviews with Mina LeslieWujastyk and Lucy Creamer are spotted perfectly by Claire Carter’s fascinating snapshot of the state of play in 2015. It’s incredible to think that as recently as 25 years ago, some mountaineering clubs were still gender segregated. Our second and related strand is skills development – both mental and physical. Andy Kirkpatrick needs no introduction, and waxes lyrical as ever on a subject close to everyone’s beating heart – fear. We also look at ski school for mountaineers, and get prepped for progressing those long desired winter routes in Scotland’s high places, where Andy’s advice will no doubt prove, um, handy. I’d also like to say a brief thanks to the photographers, in this and every issue. This time we have some beautiful contributions from David Mason, Lukasz Warzecha, and Tim Glasby, not to mention Andy Kirkpatrick and James Roddie (who do all their own F stops, as well as stunts). It can be a tough gig being an outdoors photographer, but the best are near invisible - on location before and leaving after. There’s some subtle but captivating work on display here, without which Mountain Pro would not be as dynamic a magazine as it’s becoming.
James Roddie is a photographer, winter climber and caver based near Inverness. He loves to write about his experiences and since 2011 has run the popular blog Glencoe Mountaineer. www.jamesroddie.com/
Dr Liz Auty is the John Muir Trust’s biodiversity officer and the property manager for East Schiehallion. She has been visiting mountains to search for wildflowers since an early age, and gained her PhD studying primulas in Upper Teesdale.
Claire Carter is a freelance writer based in Sheffield, near the Grit. She climbs, runs and ski tours. She is also the film officer for Kendal Mountain Festival.
Chantelle Kelly is our editorial assistant without whom interviews, book reviews and more would not happen. She is relatively new to the great outdoors, but learns fast!
Lucy Wallace is a freelance Winter Mountain Leader, Wildlife Guide and Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Assessor based in Scotland. She works with adult and youth groups, coaching navigation and hill walking skills, as well as leading schools’ expeditions overseas.
See you on the hill,
Da vid
Tom Hutton is a freelance mountain leader and mountain bike guide, as well as an award-winning outdoors writer and photographer. He’s based in Snowdonia but is lucky enough to work throughout the UK.
David Lintern, Editor
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 3
Contents 14
Fear
24
10
Interview: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
FILM NEWS BOOK REVIEWS INTERVIEW: MINA LESLIE-WUJASTYK ANDY KIRKPATRICK HAS THE FEAR GET CARTER: WOMEN’S CLIMBING IN 2015 SKIING FOR MOUNTAINEERS SANDY ALLEN’S IN SOME LOST PLACE SIX SCOTTISH WINTER CLASSICS NOTES FROM THE FAIRY MOUNTAIN: AUTUMN GEAR: MOUNTAIN HARDSHELLS, HIM GEAR: MOUNTAIN HARDSHELLS, HER GEAR: SAFETY GEAR: OUTDOOR LIGHTING TRIED AND TESTED: LUCY CREAMER CUTTING EDGE
Tried & Tested
42
48
46
6 8 10 14 20 24 32 34 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
50
THE TEAM EDITOR: David Lintern e: david.lintern@targetpublishing.com GEAR EDITOR: Tom Hutton e: tom.hutton@targetpublishing.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Chantelle Kelly e: editorial@targetpublishing.com SUB EDITOR: Suzanne Cann e: suzanne.cann@targetpublishing.com GROUP SALES MANAGER: James Lloyd e: james.lloyd@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810069 SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE: Chris Kemp e: chris.kemp@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810083 DESIGN/PRODUCTION: Hannah Wade e: hannah.wade@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810076 MARKETING EXECUTIVE: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810091 MANAGING DIRECTOR: David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Some material may be speculative and/or not in agreement with current medical practice. Information in FSN is provided for professional education and debate and is not intended to be used by non-medically qualified readers as a substitute for, or basis of, medical treatment. Copyright of articles remains with individual authors. All rights reserved. No article may be reproduced in any form, printed or electronically, without wriiten consent of the author and publisher. Copying for use in education or marketing requires permission of the author and publisher and is prohibited without that permission. Articles may not be scanned for use on personal or commercial websites or CD-ROMs. Published by Target Publishing Limited. Colour reproduction & printing by The Magazine Printing Company, Enfield, Middx. EN3 7NT www.magprint.co.uk . ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material lin accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication.
15 YEARS
2000-2015
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Cover image Andy Kirkpatrick
NEWS
Film News Citadel Multi-award winner Alastair Lee and the Posing Productions new offering; ‘Citadel’. Featuring UK alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey as they attempt the stunning NW ridge of the remote peak ‘The Citadel’ deep in the Neacola range, Alaska. The world’s first mountain film shot entirely in 4k, a stunning visual treat reveals alpine climbing like never before. World premiere 8th Oct and UK tour www.britrockfilmtour.com
Meru
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Sitting 21,000 feet above the sacred Ganges River in Northern India, Mount Meru’s perversely stacked obstacles make it both a nightmare and an irresistible calling for some of the world’s toughest climbers. After an attempt in 2008 which brought them within a 100ms of the summit, renowned alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk return in 2011. Meru is out now in the US.
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NEWS
European Outdoor Film Tour 15/16 Way up where the air is thin, riding across untamed America, breaking downhill records and hanging tough on sheet ice, now in its 15th season, the European Outdoor Film Tour shows no signs of slowing down, taking inspiration from the young, the free and the wild. Alpinist Tamara Lunger is constantly seeking extremes. At 23 she was the youngest woman to stand atop Lhotse (8,516 meters) and she proves again and again during her expeditions that she’s got the talent and drive to achieve the extraordinary. Far from the snow-covered summits, a young long-boarder blasts down into the valley along the winding roads of the desert-like western Sierra Nevada range. Proving it’s not just about speed, Ben Masters and his three friends take a more laid-back approach, travelling across America in true cowboy style, all the way from Mexico to Canada on horseback. The EUROPEAN OUTDOOR FILM TOUR 15/16 takes you on an adventure into the unknown—far off the beaten path. The tour kicks off with a special premiere evening in Amsterdam on October 9th before heading to more than 300 venues in 14 countries, including 10 dates in the UK with shows in London, Bristol, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Manchester and Birmingham.
BUY TICKETS ONLINE NOW: £13.50 (incl £1.50 handling fee) http://www.eoft.eu/tickets/#list/grosbritannien Presale Tickets £12 will soon available online and in selected Ellis Brigham stores (www.ellis-brigham.com) Box office: £ 14
The film programme is 2 hours long. With a 30 minute interval, introduction by the compere and raffle, the event will last around 2.5 to 3 hours.
UK VENUE DETAILS ■ Sat, 31/10/15 - Royal Geographical Society, London. Programme starts 14:00 (doors open 13.30). Details/Book now ■ Sat, 31/10/15 - Royal Geographical Society, London. Programme starts 18:00 (doors open 17.30). Details/Book now ■ Sun, 01/11/15 - St. George’s Bristol. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now ■ Tue, 03/11/15 - The Mitchell Theatre, Glasgow. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now ■ Wed, 04/11/15 - Portobello Town Hall, Edinburgh. Programme starts 19:30 (doors open 19.00). Details/Book now ■ Fri, 06/11/15 - The Rocket Complex, London. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now ■ Mon, 09/11/15 - Sheffield Student’s Union. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now ■ Tue, 10/11/15 - The Comedy Store, Manchester. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now ■ Wed, 11/11/15 - St. George’s Bristol. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now ■ Thu, 12/11/15, The Crescent Theatre, Birmingham. Programme starts 20:00 (doors open 19.30). Details/Book now For more information and dates go to www.eoft.eu
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 7
OUTDOOR BOOKS
Book Reviews THE MOUNTAIN PRO BOOKWORMS PICK OUT THEIR RECENT HIGHLIGHTS. ALPS MOUNTAIN BIKING Published by Vertebrate £19.95
THE GHOSTS OF K2 Published by One World £20
This book has made me want to go back to the Alps. I’d started to believe it was all bike parks, gap jumps, huge downhill rigs, and an endless succession of braking bumps. Chapeau, Steve Mallet. What makes this work is that it doesn’t try to be a comprehensive guide to the mountain bike trails of the Alps, or even any region of the Alps; instead it covers a vast selection of resorts worth visiting, and gives a flavour of the riding and even the riding culture of each of them. Put simply, it gives you enough information to know whether a resort is for you or not, and then gives you enough specific trail information to get you started. Once in the resort you’ll need to do some more research – not that this is difficult in an Alpine resort. It covers France, Italy and Switzerland, and goes beyond full-on downhill stuff to what it terms ‘Enduro,’ which is technical riding with pedalling, and Singletrack, defined as swooping and flowing; again with pedalling required. My take is that it would suit most intermediate level riders or above. If you’re thinking about an Alps trip, buy it. TH
The Ghosts of K2 traces successive attempts on the world’s 2nd tallest and arguably most dangerous mountain, from the first expedition of 1902 to the successful bid in 1954. The ‘savage mountain’ is explored through the men who went to first to conquer it and later to climb it - infamous Occultist Aleister Crowley, the wealthy Duke of Abruzzi, later American attempts led by Charlie Houston and Fritz Wiessner, and finally the Italian assault, still mired in controversy and upon which author Mick Conefrey brings new evidence to bear. In many ways it’s a sorry tale of obsession and hubris. The subtitle is ‘The Epic Saga of the first Ascent’, but Conefrey doesn’t make a meal of it - it’s forensically researched, but written in a relaxed and accessible style, without hyperbole. These sorties don’t need any exaggeration - the Karakoram in the early and mid 19th century was about as out there as it’s possible to be. The book is a real potboiler, each mission drawing you onto the next, the protagonists anxious to get up (and then off!) as quickly as possible. The edge of the seat stuff is tempered by Conefrey’s comparative analysis of the different expedition styles, the personalities and parallels that drive them, meaning that ‘Ghosts…’ is way more than the sum of it’s parts. DL
ONE MAN’S EVEREST Published by Preface £20 Kenton Cool is one of the finest high-altitude mountaineers of his generation; One Man’s Everest seeks to reveal how he reached the top of this profession. The story begins back in 1996 when Kenton shattered both his heel bones when a handhold on a route broke, and explores his emotions as he realises the extent of his injuries. He spent four weeks in hospital, three and half months in a wheel chair and endured months of rehab. We then follow his journey over the years, from his first climb after the accident to the great expeditions he completes, including summiting Everest eleven times. It’s honest, true and brings his mountaineering stories to life. CK
THE ADVENTURE GAME Published by Sandstone £24.99 Keith Partridge has filmed expeditions all over the world in some of the most beautiful and hostile environments, and The Adventure Game reveals what it’s like at the other end of the lens. The book is filled with Keith’s fantastic photographs from his many adventures, including the caves of Papua New Guinea and the summit of Mount Everest. The story begins with Keith quitting his job at the BBC to follow his true love of the outdoors and exploration, which took him from Alpine summits to white water caving and inside Alaskan glaciers. It’s an exciting account from an adventure cameraman who has ventured it all, and finally found freedom once out of the confines of a television studio. CK 8 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
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INTERVIEW
JUST ME and the rock CHANTELLE KELLY SPOKE TO MINA LESLIE-WUJASTYK TO FIND OUT WHY SHE DECIDED TO STOP CLIMBING COMPETITIVELY AND HOW THIS HAS HELPED HER DEVELOP A NEW STYLE. WHAT ARE YOUR INSPIRATIONS? I’ve always been inspired by women who are clearly very physical, strong and comfortable in their bodies. Whether that is from climbing or other sports, I really look up to them. IN 2014 YOU MADE THE DECISION TO STOP CLIMBING COMPETITIVELY, CAN YOU EXPLAIN HOW YOU REACHED THIS DECISION? It’s hard to explain articulately, it just didn’t feel right anymore. I wasn’t enjoying the competitions as much, they weren’t bringing out the best in me and I was having a hard time being nice to myself. I felt like I was travelling around competing, and missing out on the climbing I wanted to be doing outside. THE FILM PROJECT MINA EXPLORES THIS STRUGGLE WHILE YOU WERE COMPETING AT THE 2013 WORLD CUP, HOW DID YOU FEEL DURING THAT WHERE ARE YOU NOW?
TIME?
At the moment I am in the UK, at home in Sheffield. I am currently
2013 was a great season - I was climbing well and enjoying it. It was
focused on route climbing, preparing for a trip and teaching yoga.
2014 when things became much harder. I had injuries leading up to the season and during it and I generally just wasn’t able to get into the
TELL US ONE THING YOU LEARNT ABOUT YOURSELF IN THE LAST YEAR:
right space of mind.
I’ve learnt that it is really hard to be truly compassionate to oneself, but it’s a skill worth working on.
WAS IT HARD TO BE ‘UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT’ IN THAT WAY? The filming wasn’t that hard, because Jen Randall and I got on really
WHEN DID YOU BEGIN CLIMBING AND HOW WERE YOU INTRODUCED TO
well so it just felt like hanging out with a friend. The hard part was
THE SPORT?
looking at edits when the reality hit that it was going to be quite
I began climbing in 1995 when I was eight years old. My parents
public.
took me along to a climbing wall after they had noticed my love of climbing trees, walls… and well, anything!
DO YOU EVER REGRET YOUR DECISION TO STOP COMPETING? No, not at all; it wasn’t a good fit for me, or at least it isn’t now anyway.
WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER YOUR FIRST ROCK CLIMBING ACCOMPLISHMENT?
HOW DOES CLIMBING OUTSIDE DIFFER FROM THE FRUSTRATIONS YOU
Probably just getting to the top of a wall as a child, it was so exciting
FELT AS A COMPETITION CLIMBER?
and fulfilling! Sometimes as adults we forget to stop and appreciate
Climbing outside can be very intense and hard but you can, mostly,
our accomplishments, big and small.
choose when. If you don’t feel well or strong, you don’t have to climb
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I’VE ALWAYS BEEN INSPIRED BY WOMEN WHO ARE CLEARLY VERY PHYSICAL, STRONG AND COMFORTABLE IN THEIR BODIES. WHETHER THAT IS FROM CLIMBING OR OTHER SPORTS, I REALLY LOOK UP TO THEM. www.mountainpromag.com
OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 11
INTERVIEW
something hard. You can wait until everything is in line and then try.
younger, knowing that other women had climbed hard made things
With competitions, the agenda is not yours to set. Also, outside it is
feel more accessible somehow.
just me and the rock, it doesn’t matter what other people are doing my battle is my own.
WE KNOW YOU AS A PURE BOULDERER, ARE YOU SWITCHING TOWARD ROUTE CLIMBING NOW?
HAVE YOU NOW BEEN ABLE TO CONCENTRATE ON CLIMBING OUTDOORS?
I’ve always dabbled in sport climbing a bit but I’m keen to do more
I have been able to focus on outdoors and also on other things in
over the next year for sure. Although there are plenty of boulders I still
my life. When I was competing, there wasn’t time to focus on lots of
want to climb too!
disciplines within climbing fully, so I mainly bouldered. Now I can shift my focus from bouldering to route climbing and I have time for both.
DO YOU FEEL THERE IS STILL A PERFORMANCE GAP BETWEEN FEMALE AND MALE CLIMBERS?
THIS YEAR YOU HAVE ALSO FOCUSED ON YOUR OTHER PASSION - YOGA,
I don’t know to be honest. At the very top the gap is getting smaller,
CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY TO BECOME A QUALIFIED YOGA
especially with recent ascents by female climbers like Ashima and
TEACHER?
Alex Puccio, but will the gap close completely? I don’t see why not.
I have practiced yoga on and off since my late teens and have always
Climbing is so multifaceted; being a good climber isn’t just about
felt very grounded and helped by it. I had a long period where I didn’t
strength and power. There are so many factors that contribute to
practice so then finding it again felt hugely beneficial. I then decided
performance that it’s hard to say if gender plays a part.
to do my teacher training to see if I liked teaching and to deepen my practice. One of the best decisions I have made I think!
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO NEW FEMALE CLIMBERS WHO WANT TO BREAK INTO THE INDUSTRY?
DO YOU BELIEVE THIS HAS HAD A POSITIVE EFFECT ON YOU AND YOUR
I’m certainly no industry expert but my main piece of advice would be
CLIMBING?
to stay as authentic to your self as you can in everything you do.
Yes I really think it has in many ways. The grounding element of the practice has really helped me to connect with my breathing, which
SHOULD INTERVIEWERS LIKE ME ASK WOMEN CLIMBERS ABOUT GENDER
is very useful on the rock, as well as being able to deal better with
IN CLIMBING, OR JUST ABOUT CLIMBING?!
nerves and excess mental noise when climbing. In a more subtle way,
Hard call, I think it is an interesting and relevant topic but it also (like
having something other than climbing to engage with professionally
anything) can be overcooked sometimes. Yes, it’s good to have a
has helped to remove some pressure from feeling like I need to
dialogue about gender but also not to be hyper-sensitive to it when
perform. I now have something else to identify with and something
we don’t need to be.
that I can offer to other people. WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? YOUR MOST RECENT ASCENT WAS THE BAT ROUTE (F8C), HOW DID YOU
I have a few sport climbing trips lined up with my friend Katy
FEEL TO BE THE FIRST FEMALE TO DO IT?
Whittaker, we are heading to Waterval Boven, South Africa in
It felt great to climb it; it’s such a stunning line. I’m not sure if being
September and hopefully India at the beginning of 2016!
the first female holds much weight, I suppose it’s nice if it inspires other women and girls to try harder routes. I know when I was 12 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
All photos: David A Mason
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FEATURE
FEAR BRITAIN’S FUNNIEST CLIMBER KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT THE DARK SIDE. ANDY KIRKPATRICK TALKS US DOWN.
F
ear is the killer - nothing else is going to stymie your dreams more, dreams of big walls or faces, climbing that hard extreme or finally ticking Point 5. Let the fear in, those dark thoughts or ripping belays
or breaking bones - or worse - and you’ll never get close to success. Often all that lies between success and failure is one’s ability to deal with this fear. You’d imagine that a lot of great climbers, especially those at the very edge (think Alex Huber free soloing on the Brandle-Hasse) would be able to short-circuit their brains to be un-fearful, but in most cases these guys are the same as anyone. The difference is that through experience and just getting on with it, you can find ways to deal with the fears that stand in your way. Before I go on I know nothing about the brain, or psychology, so anything I write below is based simply on what I know about fear - which is quite a bit. People often ask how many times I thought I might die, to which I reply, the real question is how many times I knew I was going to die!
RING THE ALARM First of all you must understand that fear is the like an alarm, set to warn you when there is danger. But who sets the sensitivity of this alarm comes down to you, your experience, and how well you’ve dealt with fear in the past. By serving an apprenticeship in climbing you are not just building up your skills and strengths, but also slowly turning down its sensitivity. The idea of hanging from a sky hook used to terrify me and would keep me awake at night; the first time I actually hung from one (on the Shield on El Cap), I almost shit myself, but my fear was irrational. I imagined that the metal hook would bend open under my weight, or that the rock would break, but neither happened. Slowly I learnt that hooks were so strong you could take daisy falls onto them (well some styles anyway), and that granite was as hard
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 15
FEATURE
as steel, and that you could hook edges matchstick thin and
your body, so here are some ways to identify and deal with the
they would not crumble. Years later I would lead pitches that
different types:
comprised of just hooks (such as the crux pitch of The Shortest Straw), and would consider the whole pitch as A1. What I did
Mild fear: Although the most common emotion for a climbers,
was retune my mental response to hooks from irrational to
especially novice climbers, this is not fear at all. It usually
rational. By removing the blind fear, I was in fact safer (rushing
manifests itself as a background hum of fear – static; people
from a good placement to a bad one due to fear is a prime cause
describing themselves as ‘worried’ or ‘scared’ about what is to
of accidents), and allowed the real alarms to ring when I needed
come; the start of the climb; the pitch you must lead tomorrow;
them (for example when a hooking flake was loose).
committing to a skinny rope running over a sharp edge. The
The simple fact is that in order to climb well on a wall (or
greatest threat from this fear is that it’s a Petri dish for negative
on any hard climb), you need to be able to control your fear,
thoughts and failure. Within this hum of fear you begin to
otherwise it will just gum up your brain. Try instead to learn
magnify both the danger as well as the task at hand, and the fear
how to focus and apply rationality to your fears. Stop and ask
just feeds on itself until you either bail before you’ve begun, or
yourself “why am I scared?” when you feel the fear rising.
you find the power to overcome it. First off, this is not fear, this is
Having the ability to work out where the thin lines are in your
anxiety and it is normal; it is your primitive brain trying to prepare
mental walls in vital. For example a lot of climbers never really
itself for fight, flight or freeze. Like an animal, you are about to
trust their feet, fearing they could pop at any moment. This leads
enter a situation in which there is a chance you may be killed or
to holding on too tight, not relaxing, and just being on edge all
injured (after all, you don’t feel like this when you walk around
the time. What if I could give you a technique that would make
Ikea!). It is important to recognise this anxiety and deal with it
you climb with total confidence, allowing you to climb harder,
point by point until you are able to dim it enough to move on.
be more relaxed and have more fun? Well all you need to do,
Here are some examples of how this might manifest in me when
in any situation where you begin to worry about your feet is to
on a solo ascent:
think “a foot that’s committed never slips”. Repeat this and all of a sudden you’ll get your weight over your feet, relax and lose that fear.
REAL AND IMAGINED FEAR There will be many moments on this journey where you will no doubt encounter real fear, from mild fear easily shaken off by an internal ‘talking to’, to fear so total it will drain the blood from
16 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
THIS IS NOT FEAR, THIS IS ANXIETY AND IT IS NORMAL; IT IS YOUR PRIMITIVE BRAIN TRYING TO PREPARE ITSELF FOR FIGHT, FLIGHT OR FREEZE.
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Thought: What if I make a mistake and kill myself? Answer: I’ve been training and practising for over year, I’ve climbed harder single pitches at home, as well as in the rain, storm and darkness. Thought: I know I’ve done lots of training, but this would be a real solo on a big wall! Answer: Think about it rationally, it’s just a bunch of single pitch routes one on top of the other. If I can climb one safely, then I can climb them all. Thought: But what if I get to the crux ten pitches up and I can’t do it? Answer: I believe I can do it and I have all the skills and tools needed to climb that pitch. Maybe it’s just one move, who knows, but I know I can do it. Thought: It’s easy to say that now, but what about when I’m up there looking at a huge fall onto a ledge? Answer: I will place solid gear and test everything. I will equalise runners as I go to make mini running belays. I have offset cams, beaks, stuff they didn’t have when these routes where done. Thought: But what if I can’t? Answer: Then I accept that I may fail and will back off if I think it’s not justifiable. Even if I fail, I know it is better to try and fail in the doing of it, not in the thinking of it.
■ History: Knowing what others have done and the ordeals they overcame helps a lot; ■ Physical confidence: Understanding your body and how it will perform; ■ Faith: Not in God, but in your past ability to deal with problems; ■ Positivity: Although it’s hard, nine times out of ten any situation you worry about will turn out OK, so try and stay positive, even if you only fake it; ■ Experience: This is the most important one of all. Even if you haven’t soloed a wall, I expect you’ve done a lot of cool stuff in the past that you can draw on. You need a data bank from which you can pull up little ‘fear apps’ to counter negative thoughts. For example, when you go to lead the crux pitch the next day, think back to how you felt on other climbs and how these climbs turned out. Perhaps it’s only when you experience real heart-pounding fear that you know mild fear for what it truly is ... not fear at all. This kind of fear is unpleasant (it’s best not to get into the habit of enjoying it), but is part of the game and needs to be viewed as a sharpener for the senses. Sharp fear: This is piano-falling-out-of-a-window-and-justmissing-you fear; striking hard and fast, the nature of the close-
So this kind of anxiety needs to be dealt with through:
call determining how long the aftershock lasts. What triggers this
■ Technical knowledge: Learning as much as you can about the
response varies, depending on experience and what may have
technical side of this type of climbing;
you shitting your pants as a beginner (such as a krab shifting as
■ Technical training: Employing this knowledge in real-world
you hang on it), won’t even raise an eyebrow a few routes on.
training;
The more experienced you become, the faster you tend to deal
■ Beta: Knowing your route;
with a redlining heart and you’re able to rationalise what scared
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 17
FEATURE
PEOPLE OFTEN ASK HOW MANY TIMES I THOUGHT I MIGHT DIE, TO WHICH I REPLY, THE REAL QUESTION IS HOW MANY TIMES I KNEW I WAS GOING TO DIE! you. This is not to say you should totally ignore sharp fear, but in my experience it tends to come after the danger has passed.
I think being forced to face these things alone enables you to
If it hasn’t (a good example being a flake moving when you start
do a better job of it. The idea of just ‘switching off’ doesn’t work
climbing on it), then it’s paramount that you maintain control in
that well, but you can use positive thinking and language to tune
order to escape the situation, be that fight or flight.
out this fear. Instead of viewing the wall as something malign and dangerous – out to kill you – think of it as a crafty opponent,
Rolling fear: This is the most difficult fear to deal with and is
each piece you place (or move you make) a victory in a chess
a slowly increasing sense of alarm/danger/deep anxiety that
match. Use positive language, such as saying “train stopper”
can cling to you for minutes, hours or even days. If you’re in
each time you place some good gear. Try and focus on the fun,
this constantly scared state you will not be able to act or think
the adventure, the place – how you’re doing something beyond
clearly, and worst still, you’ll just have a really crap time! My first
hardcore – that you are thriving and enjoying every minute. Try
El Cap solo was very much like this for me, as I didn’t have the
and have a smile on your face.
experience to feel comfortable and so blindly pushed on (getting to the belay being my only sanctuary). On a wall, all alone, you
Above all, think of fear as signals from your primitive and paranoid
could perhaps feel this sense of fear and dread even more, but
brain, but don’t let them stop you having fun. Out-think the fear.
18 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
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#Climbing2me:
The 5th Women’s climbing symposium gets personal CLAIRE CARTER EXPLAINS WHY OCCASIONALLY, CLIMBING FOR HER IS A FEMALE AFFAIR.
M
y experience of getting in to climbing was one of
thing. At the WCS, the comparisons between women accelerated
tokenism, being the one girl in a group of guys was
our ability, and our trip plans. We shared concerns about pregnancy,
a ticket to trips and a more exciting climbing scene;
climbing career breaks, fear of falling, diet and injury, and
my own sexist perception. Being one of the keenest,
celebrated our various achievements; grades, summits, coloured
though definitely not the strongest at my small town, East Anglian wall, watching other women climb could be de-motivating as they
problems. Now when I climb well, my gender along with any self-awareness
succeeded ahead of me to be ‘one of the guys’. It never occurred
drops away, and I am just moving. The things I mention above are
to be to be one of the girls. Ten years on, in Sheffield, I climb with
irrelevant. I’m glad I’ve reached this point, where I can really say
a heap of women. My climbing culture and my individual climbing
that it doesn’t make such a difference who I climb with, or who I am
has changed and to be honest, a lot of this is down to the Women’s
as a climber. #climbing2me is about this unselfconscious freedom,
Climbing Symposium. This is my third year involved with the
and it comes from the confidence I gained from climbing with just
WCS and I am excited for another opportunity to climb just in the
women.
company of my gender, an experience my twenty-year-old self would have found alien but invaluable. For me, and of course I must reiterate this is a personal
The more talented, precocious or confident climber might not recognise my experience. The shape, skill or temperament of another climber might not have any effect on their climbing,
perspective, climbing with just women made for a completely
positive or negative. What is the point then of reducing the pool
different dynamic. I’d never really got the idea of sisterhood, just
of climbers they work with to one gender. Niall Grimer posted a
individual feminism. I’d not experienced a culture of support
picture of a hypothetical Men’s Climbing Symposium last year. It
amongst women in sport, just competition. I’d just not tried the right
looked like a normal day at the campus board in the Works. Walk in
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SHAUNA COXSEY, WCS ORGANISER AND PROFESSIONAL CLIMBER: What’s new for WCS 15? Why did you decide on Sheffield for your 5th Venue? Sheffield is the climbing mecca of the UK, the city is full of climbers with lots of knowledge and experience. This is a little intimidating when organising a climbing event. The Women’s Climbing Symposium has grown and developed over the past years and I felt that it was past its infancy and ready to take on quite possibly the toughest audience in the country. We have made sure that this event is bigger and better than ever before. With headline speakers such as Catherine Destivelle and Rachel Atherton and more coaches than ever before including Hazel Findlay and Eva Lopez we really do believe that this event offers something to every female climber out there. The WCS is a women only event. In your own climbing, how much do you climb with women and what does this experience give you in particular? I am inspired and motived by who ever I am climbing or training with. However, if I see someone a similar size and shape to me doing a move it’s even more inspiring and motivating. I’ve spent most of my time in the sport climbing with guys and trying to keep up with them. Figuring out ways around their lanky beta or the powerful moves I just don’t have the burl for. Don’t get me wrong I love climbing with them and it’s probably made me into the climber I am
Niall’s parody poster
today. But working with a female friend on a boulder, sharing (useful) beta and tackling it together is something that I find really exciting!
there on the 17th October and it will look strange in comparison. The only thing I can compare it to is walking into an Onsen in Japan. Nervous, not to mention naked, I faced a humid room of 100 odd other women. Just women. It was a unique experience. It felt a little ancient, not old fashioned, more original. The women smiled back in recognition. It felt good. Last year we used the tag line #bebravebebold, and for me this was about being brave enough to put away concerns, sexism or scorn and attend the WCS in the first place. This year it’s about opening up and finding out who the individuals in the female climbing community are, what their experience of climbing has been and what we can learn from that. Now when I climb well, my gender along with any selfawareness drops away, and I am just moving. #climbing2me is about this unselfconscious freedom, and it comes from the confidence I gained from climbing with just women. Here are the thoughts of some of the women who contribute to the WCS. Despite having far more skill and success in climbing than I have, they still value and support its single gender status.
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 21
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NATALIE BERRY, WCS COACH, PRO CLIMBER AND UKC ASSISTANT EDITOR: How have you found working within the climbing industry as a
guiding and instructing.
woman? How does it compare to simply climbing? Working in the industry and especially in the climbing media
Do you think there will be a point when the gender balance
puts you in a very prominent position and this is a positive step
in climbing will be addressed, and the WCS will be no longer
for women. I think there are many more women involved in the
relevant?
industry - particularly in the media - than people realise, and
In the past I reckon that unless you came from a climbing family
whose work goes unnoticed for one reason or another. Perhaps
or had easy access to the outdoors via some other means then
it’s down to the fact that the climbing scene is a “small-world”
being a girl could make it difficult to get into the sport in the
and occasionally quite cliquey, so keeping a low profile could
first place. Coming from a traditional family with no interest in
be preferable in a community where opinions spread fast and
the outdoors, my first forays into climbing were met with fears
some can be quite outspoken. Sticking to the wild stereotype
over safety, especially from the female members of my family.
that women on the whole aren’t as status or power-driven as
Times are changing and I think the concept of a “tomboy” might
men in general, I don’t think you tend to hear women shouting
become obsolete in years to come - it should become more
about themselves and the work they are doing as much as some
widely accepted that girls and women want to be active, explore
men do. Whether it’s down to nature or nurture, people generally
the outdoors and take calculated risks.
regard modesty and a dislike of confrontation as feminine traits. I think it is important that as women’s performance in climbing
There will always be people who lack self-confidence and like to climb with people of the same age, gender or ability. I
is reaching higher levels, so too should participation and
think even if the WCS becomes “irrelevant” in a sense, this won’t
representation within the industry - in all areas and especially
necessarily mean that women won’t still enjoy climbing as a
in those not always associated with female participation such as
group together and sharing experiences.
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NOW WHEN I CLIMB WELL, MY GENDER ALONG WITH ANY SELFAWARENESS DROPS AWAY, AND I AM JUST MOVING. #CLIMBING2ME IS ABOUT THIS UNSELFCONSCIOUS FREEDOM, AND IT COMES FROM THE CONFIDENCE I GAINED FROM CLIMBING WITH JUST WOMEN. LUCY CREAMER, WCS COACH AND PROFESSIONAL CLIMBER: Do you think you continue to face gender barriers in climbing, or did you surmount these when you became professional, or more seasoned within the industry? I’m not sure I ever experienced gender barriers. I started
EMMA FLAHERTY, WCS ORGANISER AND EXTREMELY HIGH-LEVEL BOULDERER:
climbing in Bristol and it’s a great place for inclusive and open attitudes. There wasn’t really much negativity or ’sexism’. I feel there is a combination of external barriers and barriers that are created within ourselves. If we can control the latter, it makes
Why did you decide to get behind the scenes of WCS, what in
dealing with any external ones much easier.
particular do you wish to drive forwards? I think the WCS is a fantastic day and I love organising events, it’s
How would you like to see the symposium grow in the future
what I do as a day job, but the WCS is totally unique and involves
- what do you think British women climbers ‘need’ beyond a
the sport that I am totally obsessed with. I love training, learning
one day event?
and progressing in my own climbing so getting involved in the
Through my coaching, if I had to name one factor that
WCS was an amazing win-win scenario. I see the WCS as a perfect
holds women back more than men, then it would be ’self-
platform to provide opportunities for female climbers to progress
confidence’. So I feel the symposium provides a fantastic
in a non-threatening environment and I am really motivated to help
forum for women to be together and see just how strong and
the symposium get the best people to do this job.
vibrant women’s climbing is out there. This in itself helps confidence to grow and having a peer-focussed day increases
What positive effect has your gender had on your climbing, and
the knowledge of what is possible. I personally feel it’s
how relevant is it to you now?
important to learn how to climb better with men too, as this is
In the past, notional and assumed limits put on women in the
how we live in the ‘real world’, so although I love the WCS, it
climbing community have had an effect on limiting progress but
would be great to have some joint events too.
due to the increase in participation and standards across the board it is now possible to climb in various setting with groups of women who have a wide range of experience, which has the effect of further increasing the pace of improvement. The WCS, amongst other things, is a great networking opportunity to find groups of like minded women climbers. I love the fact that I can go to the Works or out to the crag and expect to find women there with confidence, experience and psyche!
This year’s WCS event will be held on the 17th October, at The Climbing Works, Sheffield. For more information, see http://www.womensclimbingsymposium.com https://www.facebook.com/thewomensclimbingsymposium www.mountainpromag.com
OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 23
FEATURE
Skiing for Mountaineers THINKING OF LEARNING OR IMPROVING YOUR SKIING? WE ASKED ALISON CULSHAW OF OFF PISTE PERFORMANCE JUST HOW TO TRANSLATE THAT HARD WON MOUNTAINEERING EXPERIENCE TO LIFE ON THE PLANKS…
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I
f you are a keen winter climber or mountaineer you might well have spent some time toiling to the bottom of an alpine couloir or mixed climb on foot or on snowshoes. This often torrid
experience is nearly always enhanced by some flash looking continental beating you to the base of your route on skis. Getting around in the winter in Chamonix and other popular venues is often more logical on skis and increasing numbers of British climbers and mountaineers are looking flash too. Inevitably, as a Ski Instructor I often get asked by mountaineers about the best way to get into skiing. Here are my top tips to get into the sport, with mountaineers in mind. There are pros and cons, and everyone has their own budget and time limitations. Hopefully this will give you an insight into which might be the best option for you, as well as where to spend and where to save your hard earned cash. As a climber and mountaineer, you are probably already really well placed to learn to ski quickly. It’s more than likely that you will be used to being on steep snowy slopes. You will be used to physical activity and are more than capable of picking yourself up, dusting the snow off and starting again. Of course a positive mental approach is really important, and you are more than likely to say, “well how hard can it be…?” You will probably also be used to climbing movement, experimenting with balance exercises and be motivated to improve. The good news is - all of these skills are directly transferable to skiing. With all this in mind, the next stage is to consider the equipment that you might need before hitting the slopes. Skiing is an expensive sport, and there are limits to everyone’s budget. Don’t fail at the first hurdle; make sure that you have the right kit for the job. We don’t want to blame our tools, but in skiing we can. Remember – it’s more difficult to acquire the right skills, without the right tools. In most cases I would recommend concentrating on the technical equipment that connects you to the snow: boot, bindings and skis. As a climber and mountaineer you will have plenty of technical clothing that will be already be ideal for skiing. It’s certainly not essential to buy really baggy trousers from day one. A mountaineering hardshell is excellent for cutting out the wind, and allowing you to dust off the snow quickly, before your mates have noticed you have ditched it.
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 25
FEATURE
BOOTS We have probably all climbed in rock shoes that are too big at some point. That is the equivalent of what I see many people do when learning to ski. Progress is slow and enjoyment is limited, as the ski simply won’t move accurately. If you only have money to buy one piece of kit, then boots it should be. I would recommend going to see a specialist boot fitter and finding out which brand of boot fits your feet best. Go into the shop without any preconceptions of which boots you might like. The best boot for you will be the one that fits your foot best (not your outfit). So there is no point picking a boot on the basis of a review alone. If you have the right boots, you should feel that every movement you make with your feet is transmitted directly to your skis.
SKIS Use modern skis. By all means, look out for deals from last season, but don’t buy a pair on eBay from 10 years ago. For off-piste skiing, the ski should be a minimum of 80mm underfoot. Ski technology changes so quickly that if you are only skiing once a year it may make sense to hire. Then you can get the latest model each time you go skiing, and you will not have to pay for ski carriage if you are flying. Skis such as the K2 Wayback have become very popular with ski mountaineers, and are great allround skis at a reasonable price.
BINDINGS Which bindings you go for will depend on what you want to do. What do you want to do?
What weight?
Examples
Mainly uphill, week long ski tours, expedition skiing.
Lightweight (approx Pin bindings; 600g – 1.2kg per Dynafit, Plum, pair) Fritschi Vipec
Mostly downhill, offpiste skiing, day tours.
Heavyweight (approx 2 – 3kg per pair)
Marker, Salomon
I’m not sure. I’m just getting in to skiing/ touring.
Mid weight (approx 1.2kg – 2kg)
Fritschi
Pin bindings can take a bit of getting used to, and in most cases are worth considering when you are skiing confidently. The Marker and Salomon bindings are the closest thing to an alpine binding, and are easier to use initially and have a much better release mechanism than other models.
HOW TO LEARN What about learning…? Everybody is different and learns in a different style, no one solution is the answer and it’s more than likely that a combination will work for you.
DRY SKI SLOPE Learning at a dry slope gives a good introduction to the sport 26 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
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AS A CLIMBER AND MOUNTAINEER, YOU ARE PROBABLY ALREADY REALLY WELL PLACED TO LEARN TO SKI QUICKLY. IT’S MORE THAN LIKELY THAT YOU WILL BE USED TO BEING ON STEEP SNOWY SLOPES. one that is close to home and cheaper than going to the snow. They are scattered all over the UK, so there will be one near you. You can find a list of them on the ski club website: http://bit. ly/1ieSHBV Expect to pay between £5 and £15 per hour. It’s a good way to find out if you like it. Avoid using your own skis on a dry ski slope, as it’s not great for the bases. There is a risk of injury when skiing on a dry ski slope, as there is with skiing anywhere, but pay particular attention to your thumbs! Depending on the slope the runs are quite short compared to what you’ll experience on snow. Just view it as training - much like going to one boulder for the day, as opposed to doing a big mountain route.
INDOOR SNOW DOMES There are now 6 indoor snow centres in the UK. These are more like the real thing than a dry slope but they are more expensive. Expect to pay £15 - £30 per hour. Most centres will state that you have to have a lesson if you haven’t skied before. They can be busy and you might have to book a slot. This is more like “real” skiing because you are skiing on real snow. You’ll not get the powder days that you do in the Alps but it is a good way to work out if you are going to enjoy the sport.
GROUP LESSONS This is the cheapest way of getting instruction, and provides a sociable environment to learn in. Some people enjoy the company of others when learning a new skill; some people find this adds to the pressure. You’ll know if this is the best way for you to learn or not. If you’re looking for a cheap way to start skiing but think you’ll progress quickly, then one group lesson may be enough to get you going. Make sure you get bespoke advice from your instructor about what is best to try next.
PRIVATE LESSONS Private lessons aren’t cheap, but there is a reason for this. With a smaller or 1:1 ratio your contact time is increased and generally people make progress much quicker in private lessons than they do in a group. For private lessons I’d recommend having this in your first language. It gives you the option to ask questions and have things explained in another way if you don’t understand.
PRIVATE GROUP LESSONS This is a good compromise between group and private lessons and www.mountainpromag.com
OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 27
FEATURE
you’ll find most ski schools and instructors will offer this. Creating your own group will reduce the cost of hiring an instructor, but it will mean you know who is in your group! You can ask people of a similar level and fitness to join your group and people that you know you’ll feel comfortable learning with. This normally results in quicker progress than in a group lesson, but still maintaining the sociable aspect.
SELF COACHED As a Ski Instructor, I simply wouldn’t recommend self-coaching initially. One of the advantages of having a lesson is not only the coaching but the instructor will take you to an appropriate area
likely enjoy the sport or not. If you decide to learn abroad, spend
of the mountain. You don’t want to be firing off down a 40-degree
some time finding the right resort, plenty of slopes at the right
couloir with no idea how to stop. With a few lessons under your
level, a good ski school, and other activities if you need them.
belt you can ask your instructor which slopes to go on and spend time consolidating good technique. Another thing to think about is location. I learnt to ski in
If you decide to have lessons, make sure you book them well in advance so that you can get the instructor and time slot that you want. Remember each of these ways of getting into skiing need
Scotland, which was convenient as I lived within a short drive of
not be used in isolation; you might have a private lesson to get
a ski area. With cheap flights to the Alps it no longer provides a
started, spend some time practicing on your own and return to
cheaper option, but it is one for many. When conditions are good
have a group lesson specific to the aspects of skiing that you want
the skiing is fantastic, just go with an open mind. As a climber and
to learn.
mountaineer you can always switch skis for boots and crampons depending on what’s best at the time. For most people, their view of skiing involves plenty of snow, sun and beautiful alpine views, and that means skiing abroad. This can however be a costly investment if you have no idea if you are 28 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
Whichever way you choose, make sure it’s safe and best suited to you. Skiing is fun and we should learn it in a way that ensures that it stays that way. All photos: Lukasz Warzecha
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VIDEOS
Black Diamond: BDTV S1 - Episode 1: One Seven Eight - Backcountry Skiing
How do you create a life that balances work, family and your passion for the mountains? In the first episode of BDTV, we travel to Jämtland, Sweden, where Henrik Westling recently became the first person to climb and ski every one of the region’s 178 summits. In doing so, he did more than accomplish a goal: he found a way of living that will inspire you to rethink how you create balance in your life.
Introducing Nikwax Down Wash Direct
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LED LENSER TV ad Christmas 2015
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 31
MAZENO RIDGE
In Some
Lost Place MOUNTAIN PRO IS DELIGHTED TO FEATURE AN EXTRACT FROM SANDY ALLAN’S OUTSTANDING MAZENO RIDGE MEMOIR, NEWLY SHORTLISTED FOR THE BOARDMAN TASKER PRIZE.
M
en like Mackenzie [Sir Alexander] have always inspired me. As a child, my mother supervised bedtime
Sandy and Rick, with Samandar between them, and the rest of the porters at Kinshofer Base Camp. Photo: Sandy Allan
reading, handing me stories of explorers and Hudson Bay trappers that inspired my imagination. White Fang
and The Call of the Wild were my favourite tales growing up. Here I was, in my fifties, still living those dreams, shoving my sleeping bag into my rucksack inside a frosty tent. We packed the stove and a gas cylinder and the remains of our food supplies, essentially the half packet of digestives. I remember that we paused to study each other’s faces – checking our earlier decision not to take the bivouac tent and insulated sleeping mats. I would come to regret the absence of a mat. Writing this now I don’t really understand why we thought it, but at the time it seemed obvious to us that we would need just one long day to reach the summit, after which we would find traces of other climbers and join their well-trodden path, whizzing down fixed ropes to Base Camp laughing our heads off. The first time we had reached the summit, in July 2009, the winds were terrifying and we were glad to make it back to our high camp. The following day we had woken early and made a hasty exit before others were stirring; I had managed to shoot all the way down to Base Camp in a single day. Even though that effort left me exhausted, the experience showed me that we could get down the mountain quickly. We must therefore have felt that overloading our rucksacks with heavy bivouac equipment was a luxury we could do without at this stage. We would have one bivouac and be back
IT DOES NOT MATTER HOW MANY 8,000-METRE PEAKS ONE CLIMBS, EACH STEP YOU TAKE HAS TO BE DONE WITH CARE AND ATTENTION.
in Base Camp late in the evening of the 16 July. Memory can sometimes prove a little fickle. In 2009 the route
climbers. Go Mi-Sun’s death was a shocking reminder that it does
had indeed been fixed with ropes, but it was still quite serious.
not matter how many 8,000-metre peaks one climbs, each step
Serious enough, in fact, for Go Mi-Sun, a well-known Korean
you take has to be done with care and attention.
climber, to fall to her death and for another climber to be blown
I wondered briefly how the Lhakpas and Cathy were getting on
clean off the summit, never to be found. Our experience told us
with their descent down the Rupal flank. (It turned out they had a
that we could get off Nanga Parbat in about a day and a half if
tough time. They got avalanched and Cathy lost the memory card
the Diamir was fixed and the normal route well trodden by other
from her camera with all her images. Rangdu suffered a sprained
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Sandy on the last abseil off the Kinshofer Wall. Photo: Sandy Allan
Breaking trail along the ridge, shortly before Nuru’s fall. Photo: Rick Allen
ankle that turned out to be broken when it was X-rayed back in
and heart attack. Above 8,000 metres, even if you have access to
Kathmandu. But they still managed to reach Latabo the day after
abundant fluids, the body is dying fast. You have a few days at
they left us.) Then I shouldered my pack, feeling quite confident
most up there.
for Rick and myself. If we failed to reach the top, we could keep
The lack of oxygen also has a detrimental effect on mental
traversing and descend the Diamir Face by the Kinshofer route,
processes. Rick and I had been climbing at high altitudes for two
which we knew, or return part way along the ridge and descend via
weeks now; our food intake had been scanty and it was just a
the route Reinhold Messner soloed in 1978. I knew Luis Stitzinger
matter of time before our bodies simply refused to do more and
and Josef Lunger had descended Messner’s route through the
we would become incapable of movement. We were running out
steep and jumbled seracs of the Diamir flank. It looked like suicide
of time.
on first inspection, but if luck was on your side, you were moving fast and none of the seracs moved, it could be safe enough. Those three climbers had got down without incident so perhaps it was not such a game of Russian roulette as I initially suspected. It was at least another potential exit strategy. To be forced by circumstance to retreat back to this camp would have been difficult; the thought of following our own team’s descent line down the Schell route was not an option. We didn’t consider it. In fact, to be quite honest, descending to escape was not an option we considered seriously, although I only understood that in retrospect. Maybe us mountaineers do analyse all our options, if only subconsciously. The critical thing was to get down as fast as we could. That’s pretty much obligatory for those reaching the summit of an 8,000-metre peak without oxygen. It’s nice to linger, to take some photos and absorb the intense fulfillment I usually feel. But at altitude, our bodies need just as much oxygen as normal, and at 8,000 metres the air pressure is a third of that at sea level. There’s less oxygen available and we are constantly gasping for breath, like patients in intensive care, fighting for life, our blood saturation at critical levels. Even with my high-altitude discipline of taking time to fully inhale and fill my lungs with the greatest volume of
‘In some lost place’ by Sandy Allen is available from
air possible, I can only just breathe enough to keep standing still.
www.v-publishing.co.uk priced £24
My blood was thickening as we gained altitude, risking stroke www.mountainpromag.com
OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 33
FEATURE
Scottish Six Shooter 34 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
JAMES RODDIE TAKES US OFF THE BEATEN TRACK FOR SIX OF THE BEST SCOTTISH WINTER ROUTES YOU MAY HAVE NEVER HEARD OF. www.mountainpromag.com
Looking down on the Trinity gullies from the Liathach Ridge traverse.
S
cottish winter climbers operating in the low to mid grades
areas, too – blogs and conditions reports are great, but you might
can sometimes get stuck in a rut. Returning to the same
start to feel that they take some of the mystery out of winter
reliable corries makes sense on many levels – you may
climbing.
only have one week a year to get the ice axes out so
Remoteness, uncertainty and solitude can add a huge amount to
you want the best possible chance of getting something done.
the character of a route and can sometimes feel more important
However if conditions aren’t great it can be easy to get into a
than the quality of the climbing itself. There are plenty of very
cycle of climbing the same routes year after year, and sometimes
reliable routes throughout the Highlands, which many climbers
frustration or even boredom can spoil the relationship before it
may have never heard of, offering quality days out amongst
has properly begun. For the reward to justify the effort, perhaps
remarkable surroundings. In most cases you’ll never have to queue
a step into the unknown is required. The Northern Corries, Ben
and you could easily have the entire corrie to yourself. There may
Nevis and Stob Coire Nan Lochan are great climbing venues with
not be any conditions reports for the route you are interested in,
dependable conditions, but they can also be very crowded with
or even a single reference to it online, but the uncertainty adds a
queuing likely for the most popular routes on good-weather days.
whole new dimension to the overall experience. Here are six great
There’s a lot of information available online about these popular
low-grade winter routes that you may have never heard of:
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 35
FEATURE
CEANNACROC COULOIR (II**), SGURR NAN CONBHAIREAN, KINTAIL One of the most reliable west coast grade II gullies north of Lochaber, Ceannacroc Couloir is a long route (300m) that is often still in condition after a big thaw. This is one of many routes that disproves the notion that low-grade gullies are all the same. A steep and straight snow gully runs for some distance and takes you to an unexpected neck on the side of the hill’s East Ridge. Some meandering ground gains the upper part of the ridge, taking you to a highly memorable and unusual finish along a very narrow and exposed snow arête. On a blue-sky day this feels remarkably like a miniature version of the summit ridge of Castor in Switzerland. You top out almost directly on the summit, which offers good opportunities for spotting golden eagles. Conditions – needs firm snow on north to east-facing slopes for the approach and gully to be safe. No cornice. Avoid in strong winds as the snow arête finale would be very spicy indeed. Further reference – SMC Northern Highlands South (2007)
Looking down Central Trinity Gully towards the main Liathach ridge.
The unique snow-arete finale to Ceannacroc Couloir.
CENTRAL TRINITY GULLY (II*), COIRE NA CAIME, TORRIDON When the snow is still unconsolidated on the higher crags of Glencoe and Lochaber more favourable conditions can often be found in Torridon. Coire na Caime is a long way from the road but it offers a large number of great routes in one of the most beautiful corries in Scotland, and Central Trinity is one of the best lines. This route is all about the situation – the central of three straight gullies splitting the formidable Northern Pinnacles. One or two ice steps can be encountered or it can bank out to steep snow. From the top of the gully, the last section of the Northern Pinnacles takes you to the summit of Mullach an Rathain, and continuing along the main Liathach ridge traverse makes this one of the best long mountaineering days in Britain. Conditions – one the highest routes in Torridon so worth a look even if things look more ‘black’ than you’d expected. Avoid when north to east-facing slopes are unstable. Most reliable mid-season. No cornice. Further reference – SMC Northern Highlands South (2007)
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Nutcracker is the steep ribbon of ice in the central gully.
NUTCRACKER (II/III*), STOB COIRE NAM BEITH, GLENCOE A highly enjoyable but barely known low-grade ice route tucked away behind a ship’s prow buttress, in a corrie filled with great classics. Though quite short, this route is
REMOTENESS, UNCERTAINTY AND SOLITUDE CAN ADD A HUGE AMOUNT TO THE CHARACTER OF A ROUTE AND CAN SOMETIMES FEEL MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE QUALITY OF THE CLIMBING ITSELF. THERE ARE PLENTY OF VERY RELIABLE ROUTES THROUGHOUT THE HIGHLANDS, WHICH MANY CLIMBERS MAY HAVE NEVER HEARD OF, OFFERING QUALITY DAYS OUT AMONGST REMARKABLE SURROUNDINGS.
Forked Gully on Stob Coire nan Lochan. If you want to start
ESKIMO GULLY (II/III*), LURCHER’S CRAG, CAIRNGORMS
leading grade III, this could be a good route to ease you
During the busiest periods the Northern Corries can sometimes
in. In good conditions, Nutcracker will consist of a narrow
become a bit of a circus. Lurcher’s Crag is usually quieter and
ribbon of ice running down the right-hand side of a gully,
provides numerous ice and mixed routes of good length, and
with the steepest section feeling more like grade III. Climbing
although the walk-in is longer it still doesn’t take long. This west-
North-West Gully as a prelude makes this a superb day
facing crag is also regularly a good option if the Northern Corries
covering several hundred metres of high-quality ground. On
are buried in powder. Eskimo Gully provides a good alternative
a day when Deep-Cut Chimney or SC Gully have queues,
to the two classic grade III gullies on the crag, and it sits amongst
Nutcracker will almost certainly be empty.
several other worthwhile, but unfrequented routes. A groove leads
steep enough to make it a good step up from (for example)
through the slabs at the base of the crag and is followed by a steep Conditions – if SC Gully is in condition then Nutcracker could
ice pitch, after which an easier gully above gives you the option for
be a good bet. Can be badly affected by the sun during late-
several different exits.
season. The whole corrie is quite avalanche prone so choose
Conditions – requires a good cold spell. A useful option for days
a day with good snow conditions.
when west-facing slopes are safest. Usually not in condition later in
Further reference – SMC New Routes 2010
the season and prone to damage from sunshine. Further reference – SMC New Routes 2008
The main ice pitch in Eskimo Gully in very fat conditions.
www.mountainpromag.com
OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 37
FEATURE
Looking back to the exposed crux move around the pinnacle on Archie’s Ridge.
PIONEER GULLY (III*), CREAG COIRE AN-T SLUGAIN, GLEN SHIEL
ARCHIE’S RIDGE (III,4*), AONACH DUBH WEST FACE, GLENCOE
Many people only really think of the Forcan Ridge when it comes to
A significant step up in terms of seriousness from the
winter climbing in Glen Shiel, but the glen actually contains a wide range
other routes listed, Archie’s Ridge is found in a rarely
of high-quality routes. It’s a great base for a low/mid-grade climbing trip.
visited area of the intimidating West Face of Aonach
Coire an-t Slugain is one of the best corries – usually empty and a good
Dubh. Climbing here is always an adventure due to
place for climbing several routes in a day. Pioneer Gully is good fun, close
the committing and very steep nature of the face.
to the road and a suitable route as first grade III. Three ice steps and steep
Apart from on Dinnertime Buttress, or when the highly
snow lead to a minor bifurcation – taking the left option leads into an icy
desired ice routes are in condition, you’ll almost
groove, which gives access to a blunt snow arête and an exit through a
always be alone. This route is a good option during a
small cornice. The views into Knoydart from the top are staggering so it’s
hard freeze or on a wild day with easterly winds, so
worthwhile saving this route for a good day.
long as fresh snow isn’t being deposited on the face. A long traverse from the right of the face across the
Conditions – Glen Shiel tends to get a lot of snow, so Pioneer Gully might
Upper Rake makes for a serious approach – but it’s
easily be in condition when routes at a similar altitude/aspect in other
the most straightforward way to get to the buttress.
glens have succumbed to a thaw. Low avalanche risk on north to east-
Archie’s Ridge is found on the left side of the buttress
facing slopes essential for a safe approach/descent.
and begins with a short groove, above which the route
Further reference – SMC Northern Highlands South (2007)
narrows and steepens. Enjoyable climbing up steep blocky ground suddenly brings you to an unexpected
Looking down during a solo of Pioneer Gully.
pinnacle. The move around this and across the gap on the other side forms the memorable crux of the route, after which another groove and some scrambling leads to easy ground. Conditions – needs a hard freeze for the turf to be in condition. Often good during early season. Avoid when west-facing slopes are avalanche prone. Sheltered on a day of strong easterlies but be aware of the top out and descent. Further reference – SMC New Routes 2010
38 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
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Marmot Technical Shells :15
Marmot Technical Shells :15 featuring GORE-TEX®
Black Diamond: BDTV S1 - Episode 2: The Forecaster - Backcountry Skiing
Reading the snow is both an art and a science, but as the promise of deep powder draws more backcountry skiers to Utah’s Wasatch Mountains, avalanche forecaster Drew Hardesty is sharing more than a snow report. He’s speaking out, sharing a message that will change the way you think about skiing in the backcountry this winter. www.mountainpromag.com
OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 39
LAND MANAGEMENT
Notes from the Fairy Mountain: Autumn
DR. LIZ AUTY REFLECTS ON CYCLES OF CHANGE ON HER REGULAR PATCH IN HIGHLAND PERTHSHIRE - EAST SCHIEHALLION.
I
t’s well known that in the United Kingdom we love discussing the weather. For those of us who live and work in the
yellow mountain saxifrage and bog asphodel. I always look forward to autumn, with cooler temperatures
mountains, weather forecasts and the resulting conditions
bringing morning mists that lift to leave clear skies and fabulous
are not just chit chat, they are an integral part of what we do.
views. The fall colours in Perthshire are spectacular and on
For conservationists, it’s also an indicator of the global climate
Schiehallion my particular favourite are the aspens in the glen mhor
challenge we face as we witness what’s happening to local species.
gorge. This is also a great place to hear the roars of rutting stags
The cooler temperatures this summer has, for example, resulted in
which can fill the valley with their spectacular sound. This change of
much reduced water vole activity, which has a knock-on effect to the success of birds of prey. In addition, our mountain ringlet surveys did not detect any butterflies on the wing this year. As John Muir, the Scot’s born pioneer of modern day conservation said, “When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the Universe.” Across the UK, Europe and globally we’ve seen consistent declines in many species and habitats for several decades. However, year on year, as in any ecosystem, there are fluctuations. This year at Schiehallion we’ve had a really colourful display of wild flowers. August is always really special, as many areas turn purple with the heather. The scent is marvellous. There is lots of yellow too with 40 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
THE FALL COLOURS IN PERTHSHIRE ARE SPECTACULAR AND ON SCHIEHALLION MY PARTICULAR FAVOURITE ARE THE ASPENS IN THE GLEN MHOR GORGE. THIS IS ALSO A GREAT PLACE TO HEAR THE ROARS OF RUTTING STAGS WHICH CAN FILL THE VALLEY WITH THEIR SPECTACULAR SOUND. www.mountainpromag.com
Jen from clothing company Patagonia, on the walk to the top of Schiehallion
years because they are nibbled off by deer as soon as their leaders get about the height of the surrounding heather. There is a fantastic wealth of life here already, but there could be much more. I imagine a future when waxwings might turn up Schiehallion is anglicised from the Gaelic, Sìth Chailleann,
because of the wealth of berries, where grasshopper warblers and
meaning ‘Fairy Hill of the Caledonians’. It is home to red deer,
willow warblers are heard singing from willow trees along the whole
hares, many different birds and a wide range of habitats
valley: not just in one tiny corner of the land. Where there is enough
including heather moorland and bog. It is managed by the John
woodland to support tens of red squirrels rather than the handful
Muir Trust. www.johnmuirtrust.org/
who provide us with one or two brief glimpses a year. I look forward to a diversity of habitat and windows on the view through different
season is always bittersweet. As the ospreys and swifts head south,
types of trees. In my vision, those favourite aspen trees are not just
we await the arrival of the geese which are a fantastic spectacle in
confined to the steepest inaccessible slopes, but expand onto the
the sky.
side of the hill and really tremble in the wind.
I am lucky enough to have an intern over from America during
Sometimes it really seems like an impossible dream, but it is the
this period. Jen works for the Patagonia clothing company and
kind of change that has been seen in places like Creag Meagaidh
is spending eight weeks with us. We have been very involved in
and on one our own properties on Knoydart, Li and Coire Dhorrcail.
collecting seeds and berries for the Millenium seedbank at Kew
Here visionary people started projects knowing that they might not
Gardens. Jen has been helping with a project collecting and storing
live to see the results of their hard work and that the success would
seed from different native species all across the UK. At Schiehallion
be hard fought.
we are gathering seed from Alder and Birch, but the Rowan trees
I’d love to see the patches of woodland we have here at
on site have very few berries this year, so we will hope for a better
Schiehallion joined up, and believe this can be done by working
season in 2016.
in partnership at a local level. Realistically, it will also need much
While noticing seasonal changes is important, it’s also interesting
bigger changes in land and deer management at a national level.
to reflect on changes over a longer period of time. The Trusts’ vision
The projects we are looking at for the next few years will be small
is for wild land where native species are thriving free from too much
in scale, and on sites like this it can take a long time to see marked
management intervention. That can seem a long way off when I am
change, but hopefully if we keep working on the small projects, the
recording tree seedlings that have not grown in height for several
bigger dreams will become a reality in the future.
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 41
GEAR GUIDE
Mountain Hardshells
for him
FROM THE CAIRNGORMS IN WINTER TO THE ALPS IN SUMMER, A HARDSHELL IS ONE ITEM THAT’S NON NEGOTIABLE. TOM HUTTON AND LUCY WALLACE TRY OUT A FEW FOR SIZE.
The only jacket tested that features a proprietary fabric: Hydroshell. And while lab testing may say otherwise, I’d struggle to say it was any less waterproof or breathable than the other fabrics tested. It has a soft face fabric, giving it a good feel when on; and it’s also pretty tough. The hood is superb – a thread that runs through this whole test – cavernous, with a stiffened wired peak that feels bombproof in even the nastiest wind-driven rain. The pockets are huge and mesh-lined, so double as vents; and they are placed well back so act like underarm zips; and I really liked the mesh inner one – ideal for a phone. It also boasts an elasticated pocket for a drinks bottle – great for winter climbing at low temperatures. It has a lift pass pocket on the sleeve too. The cuffs are long and the hem is scooped and easily adjustable with single-handed drawcords. At 500g, it’s at the upper end on the scales but not prohibitively so; and at £300, it’s excellent value. Weight: 500g. ■ www.berghaus.com
PÁRAMO ENDURO, £370 The Enduro is Páramo’s top end mountaineering offering and it’s a well-featured jacket which offers unrivalled breathability, but at a price of weight and warmth. For me, it’s just too hot to wear at any time but winter. And at 850g, I wouldn’t want to slip it in my pack in case I needed it. But once it’s in its element – and that will depend on the time of year, the altitude, and how hot or cold you run – it is pretty unbeatable. Close to perfect for typical Scottish winter conditions – ok, a bit niche, but also incredibly challenging. The hood is amazing – deep and extremely comfortable, due to the lovely soft nature of the Analogy fabric – and the peak is wired and easy to get into the right position. It has short pit zips, that certainly help with spilling the heat, and the cuffs can be left open or even pulled up to vent some more. Pockets are huge – plenty big enough for a map – and the hem adjusts with a drawcord, although it’s a little short for my preferences. Overall, a superb bit of kit, just not as versatile as a traditional shell. Weight: 850g. ■ www.paramo-clothing.com 42 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
RAB LATOK ALPINE, £260 The word ‘mountaineering’ seems to have an instant impact on prices, so it’s great to see the Latok Alpine, undoubtedly a jacket of mountaineering pedigree, coming in well under £300. It’s a super jacket, cut from a very breathable 3-layer eVent fabric and bristling with BEST BUY features. The fabric i ta www.moun proved waterproof as well as breathable, although it is definitely more crinkly than most tested. And the features all stood the test, with great underarm zips, huge chest pockets that are way out of the way of a harness, and an excellent internal mesh pocket that is ideal for a phone. The hood’s spot-on, with a wired peak and high and comfortable collar, and it adjusts easy enough with single-handed drawcords. Cuffs are effective – Velcro tabs that can be left open – and the hem’s a good length and easily tightened/loosened too. At 500g, it’s no lightweight, but it’s well built and tough, and will definitely take a beating. Weight: 500g. ■ www.rab.equipment/uk/ np rom ag.com
BERGHAUS BAFFIN ISLAND, £300
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GEAR GUIDE
HAGLOFF ROC HIGH II, £450
EDITOR’S
pr om ag.c om
A striking looking jacket with some innovative features. It’s cut from a tough Gore-Tex Pro CHOICE fabric that’s both breathable and waterproof, and feels soft and comfortable to wear. I love the innovative, covered Napoleon pockets – not much chance of rain penetrating these; and in nta www.mou it has a good-sized internal mesh pocket that’s perfect for a drink bottle, phone or guidebook/ map. The hood’s phenomenal, with a reinforced and wired peak that combines with a high and soft collar to make it just about impossible for rain or snow to get in. The main zip is bombproof, and backed up with a folded stormflap; and the hem’s a good length and easily adjusted on the fly. Neat underarm zips provide venting when you’re working hard, and the cuffs are fastened with Velcro. At 490g, with underarm zips, it’s quite a lightweight. Weight: 490g. ■ www.haglofs.com/gb/en
BLACK DIAMOND SHARP END SHELL, £350 The second lightest jacket tested uses a very lightweight Gore-Tex pro fabric to produce a very breathable and waterproof mountaineering jacket that is also reasonably priced. The pockets are lower than most, no problem with a pack strap or harness but not as easy to access as some. And whilst it has no internal pockets, it has a good-sized one up high, which has a mesh section that will take a small phone or gps. The hood’s great – deep and easily adjusted for a perfect fit, with or without a helmet, but I’d prefer a wired peak. In its favour, it has lengthy pit-zips that are barely noticeably yet offer a decent airflow. Cuffs are the usual Velcro tab arrangement, and the hem is a singlehanded drawcord, that has a unique button for releasing tension. Would have been my first choice if it had a wired peak. Weight: 455g. ■ www.eu.blackdiamondequipment.com
MONTANE FAST ALPINE STRETCH NEO JACKET, £350 I really like Polartec Neoshell – it has a soft shell like feel that is less plasticky than most shell fabrics. And this particular fabric goes that one step further with some stretch too – ideal for climbing or scrambling. It’s also incredibly breathable and kept a notable quantity of rain out during the test. It’s well-built, with reinforcement on the forearms and shoulders – useful protection from rock scuffs, pack straps and axes hooked over shoulders. And well featured too, with a superb hood, with a wired and stiffened peak, and a lovely high collar; and large, well-placed chest pockets. The cuffs are easily adjusted via a double-back Velcro tab – perhaps over-engineered – and the snowskirt also adds weight and expense. Although it will be useful for skiing or ski mountaineering - the shoulder pocket will help here too. Overall, a great jacket and a superb fabric, and not a bad price either. Weight: 550g. ■ www.montane.co.uk www.mountainpromag.com
JOTTNAR BERGELMIR, £450 Another superb jacket cut from the excellent Polartec Neoshell fabric. It’s tough, waterproof, super breathable, feels great to wear, and is stretchy in the bargain. It pays a penalty with weight though, hitting the scales at a smidge over 500g. Features-wise, the Bergelmir is about perfect. It has two huge napoleon chest pockets at the front – easily big enough for a map or guidebook, as well as a small one on the inside for keys, money, lift pass etc. The hood is top-notch: deep, with a high collar and easy adjustment. It also has stiffened, wired peak, which will keep driving rain out of your eyes. The cuffs are fastened with Velcro tabs – adequate and simple – and the hem, which has a nicely scooped back, is adjusted via a drawcord. It’s expensive, but it kept out some horrible Scottish weather; and the change I’d make would be a little venting – either through the pockets or perhaps underarm zips. Weight: 505g. ■ www.jottnar.com
ARC’TERYX ALPHA AR, £450 The Alpha AR sits somewhere in the middle of Arc’teryx’s mountaineering jackets – ideal for alpine or technical climbing; and at 395g, it’s the lightest jacket tested and a good all-round walking jacket too. The Gore-Tex Pro fabric is incredibly light, yet tougher and notably less crackly than a typical lightweight fabric; and I was really impressed with breathability and waterproofness. I loved the hood – another deep and snug one that kept some pretty foul weather out – and the reinforced peak is functional, though I’d prefer a wired one. Pocket-wise, we’re talking two large chest ones, that will swallow a map, and a small internal one that just took my smartphone. It has lengthy underarm zips, which don’t affect the way the fabric falls at all – probably the best I’ve ever seen. The Velcro cuffs work perfectly, and the hem is adjusted via a drawcord. I also love the HemLock – a simple system that keeps the hem tucked into a harness. Overall, big money but total class – would be perfect with a wired peak. Weight: 395g. ■ www.arcteryx.com/ OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 43
GEAR GUIDE
Mountain Hardshells It’s a neat and very lightweight waterproof shell, suitable for a range of mountain activities, from skiing to hillwalking, with a particular eye on winter. The price initially seems high for a standard Gore-Tex shell, but you are paying for a hard wearing three layer version, with Gore’s C-Knit backer, which feels soft and supple, as well as Patagonia’s attention to detail with reinforced stretch areas around the back and shoulders. The jacket flexes well without riding up or restricting movement. Roomy hand warmer pockets sit above a harness belt and it is (just) possible to wiggle an OS map in. There is also a generous chest pocket and a big internal pouch for a water bottle, skins or spare gloves. The hood is helmet compatible, adjusts neatly but lacks a wired brim. The jacket has a Recco reflector some ski patrols are equipped to scan for these in the case of an avalanche burial. An elastic tab inside interacts with Patagonia Snow Pants to keep it from riding up. Weight: 373g. ■ www.patagonia.com
FJÄLLRÄVEN KEB ECOSHELL, £390 Fjällräven have developed Eco-Shell in response to growing concerns about sustainability and the environmental and even possible health risks of Durable Water Repellent treatments. It’s a three layer polyester material- the face fabric and backer are entirely recycled whilst the membrane itself is virgin polyester. The outside is treated with fluorocarbon free water repellent treatments. These are likely to break down more quickly than traditional DWR treatments, so the jacket needs regular re-proofing. The stretchy fabric has a lovely soft and quiet feel, and this jacket has all the understated looks and woodsman-like leather details that Fjällräven is known for. Two large chest pockets accommodate an OS map, with smart little mesh compartments inside for valuables, plus there is an internal mesh zipped pocket and a handy bicep pocket. There are zips at the sides for venting, and although the Eco-Shell is pretty breathable, these help with moisture management. All in all it’s a solid all-weather hardshell. My only gripe is the hood, which whilst helmet compatible, can gape at the sides because it is fiddly to cinch down in strong winds and rain. Weight 473g. ■ www.fjallraven.co.uk 44 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
RAB LATOK ALPINE JACKET, £260 The Latok Alpine has been flying the flag for Rab for many years, and I’m deeply impressed with this latest incarnation, updated for 2015. As you would expect, the three-layer eVent fabric is waterproof and highly breathable. BEST BUY This provides the i ta building blocks for www.moun a straightforward but uncompromising shelloffering the very best mountain performance at this price point. The main torso pockets are huge, accommodating the clug and maps that I like to have handy in winter, and the internal mesh pocket is also bigger than most. Both sit well out of the way of a harness. The wired hood is voluminous- no helmet problems here, but can be adjusted to hug the head even without a helmet with a single pull of the cord at the back. Additional adjustment around the face ensures full weather protection. Long cuffs protect the wrists and are tabbed down with Velcro fasteners. My favourite feature is the pit zips; running under the full length of the armsthey are easy to open and close with a pack on, allowing tons of ventilation as required. The cut is a simple no-nonsense design, fitting easily over multiple layers, without feeling baggy. Whilst not as tough as the Haglofs Roc High, this is a serious piece of kit, at a very accessible price. Weight 466g. ■ www.rab.equipment
np rom ag.com
PATAGONIA REFUGITIVE JACKET, £360
for her
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GEAR GUIDE
MONTANE DIRECT ASCENT EVENT JACKET, £250 Montane are masters of simple and effective gear, and they’ve come up trumps with this functional yet minimalist mountain shell. Constructed from three-layer eVent, it breathes really well and keeps the weather out in typical winter conditions. The helmet friendly hood is easily adjustable and has a small wired brim, though it’s perhaps a little stingy compared to the Rab Latok. Storage is covered by two big torso pockets and an internal mesh pouch. The pockets sit high enough not to interfere with a harness, and unusually, there is both a waist draw cord and a hem adjuster, good for warmth, comfort, and keeping snow out in belays and bum slides. Water resistant zips, and a good storm flap behind ensure the weather stays out. With a super competitive price, quality materials and un-fussy design, it’s a sound option for winter mountaineers looking for a shell that will do the job for all their adventures, both on and off the rope. Weight 440g. ■ www.montane.co.uk
SHERPA LAKPA RITA JACKET, £280 I’ve praised this jacket in the pages of this magazine before - awarding it Best Buy in 2014, and it has stood the test of time. I’m still wearing the original garment that I reviewed, and it’s seen a lot of action in the hills. A superb well-featured mountaineering hardshell, both very lightweight and tough, the Lakpa Rita is offered at a competitive price. The eVent fabric is exceedingly breathable, especially comfortable in cool and damp conditions. The advice is to wash it regularly to maintain breathability. Reinforced panels protect the wear points on the shoulders, whilst lighter fabric is used for the torso. The jacket itself is festooned with pocketstwo main ones sit above a harness and help with venting, plus two chest pockets deal with smaller items. The helmet compatible hood has a wired peak and is easy to adjust with gloves on, behaving well in the wind. Weight 350g. ■ www.sherpaadventuregear.co.uk
HAGLOFS ROC HIGH JACKET, £420
EDITOR’S
pr om ag.c om
CHOICE I think my first car cost less, but price aside; this jacket is the luxury option for a number of reasons. It is built from Gore-Tex Pro, which I find unbeatable for water repellency and in breathability in truly grim conditions, with tough 70-denier reinforced panels across the nta www.mou back and shoulders, and lighter 40-denier fabric on the chest. The hood is fantastic, fitting over a helmet with no dramas, with a huge wired brim, cut to give maximum protection whilst creating a snug fit that moves really well and tolerates a strong headwind. Inside the neck a fleecy collar keeps things cosy. The pockets sit high to accommodate a harness - there are big map sized pockets, and a smaller chest pocket plus a bicep pouch for handy items. Inside, a mesh pouch will take a spare hat and cloves. Low profile water resistant underarm zips provide ventilation if required. Elsewhere the zips are chunky and tough. The front zip is protected by a particularly generous baffle. Whilst the features are gnarly, the cut is very feminine, with exaggerated curves. This, coupled with my sample’s “Volcanic” shade of pink, made me feel a little like mountain Barbie during testing. However, freedom of movement is good and the arms are plenty long enough for winter climbing adventures. This jacket has a solidity to it that makes it the ideal choice for proper winter conditions. Weight 490g. ■ www.haglofs.com
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 45
GEAR GUIDE
Emergency and Rescue Equipment LIFESYSTEMS LIGHT AND DRY SURVIVAL BIVI, £14.99
np rom ag.com
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG… THE GEAR WE CARRY CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LIFE AND DEATH. LUCY WALLACE TAKES A LOOK AT A RANGE OF PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL EQUIPMENT FOR MOUNTAIN EMERGENCIES.
BEST BUY
The Light and Dry Bivi bag beats a simple foil blanket hands down as you can actually i ta www.moun get in it and cover your whole body. The reflective waterproof material is said to trap 90% of the body’s radiated heat, and cuts out wind, dramatically reducing heat loss in an emergency. It’s also lot lighter than a trad orange plastic survival bag at just 205g, but is almost as strong. It folds away in to its own stuff sack (folded dimensions 10x7x7cm). The price is accessible enough to make this an affordable bit of emergency gear for most people, but it’s too expensive for me to consider using it for a little casual tobogganing- an honourable if hazardous retirement activity for my old heavy weight version. ■ www.lifesystems.co.uk
LEATHERMAN RAPTOR, £79.95 A specialist multitool for first responders and paramedics, the Raptor includes what must be the worlds most powerful medical shears, alongside a host of handy features including an oxygen tank wrench, webbing cutter, ring cutter and carbide glass breaker. The cutting tools are gobsmackingly effective- the ring cutter merrily snips through mild steel nails, and the shears cut up tin cans with little effort. I found the webbing cutter a bit more awkward to operate - but no worries as the shears will do the job easily enough. The Raptor is beautifully made, with the craftsmanship you’d expect from Leatherman, and comes with it’s own easy clean belt holster. At 164g it’s a bit heavy for most mountain rescuers, but team doctors and EMTs may find it useful. I also wonder how easy it would be to clean all the little nooks and crannies after use. However, it looks like an outstanding bit of kit for vehicle based, uniformed professionals working at the trauma sharp end. ■ www.leatherman.com
46 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
CARE PLUS MOUNTAINEER FIRST AID KIT, £49.99 Jam-packed and weighing 871g, I find it hard to believe that this first aid kit is aimed at the independent mountaineer - it’s just too heavy and the nylon bag is quite literally bursting at the seams. However, it’s not a bad work kit for mountain leaders on day hikes and short expeditions. I took it away at Duke of Edinburgh’s Award exped in the Cairngorms and predictably it was pressed in to service on some minor cuts and grazes, as well as a boot repair (duct tape). There’s a good array of versatile bandages and dressings, tape, wound closures, plasters and blister dressings. There are a few surprise pieces that I’d be tempted to remove, such as foot powder and a survival blanket. I like that it contains a splint, although this bulky item is probably overkill unless you are heading somewhere truly remote. ■ www.careplus.eu
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GEAR GUIDE
BLIZZARD SURVIVAL JACKET, £31.00
I’m a big advocate of carrying one of these. At 3”x5” this is a handy size for tucking in a first aid kit, perfect for keeping notes in wet conditionswhether monitoring a casualty or writing down the details of an incident to send with a runner going for help. The pages are tear resistant but are easily removed - you could even just stuff a couple in a super light personal first aid kit. This option includes a normal pencil, I prefer a chinagraph pencil for durability (they also write on laminated maps), but any pencil will do the job. ■ www.ustbrands.com/
LIFESYSTEMS MOUNTAIN LEADER PRO FIRST AID KIT, £79.99
EDITOR’S CHOICE
pr om ag.c om
ULTIMATE SURVIVAL TECHNOLOGIES WATERPROOF NOTEBOOK, £4.95
Whilst it makes you look like a Halloween pumpkin, it’s very efficient, lightweight, and as warm as the 8 togs that it claims. The jacket is totally reusable, although it takes a bit of work to pack back down to near the 15x11x3cm vacuum packet dimensions, and weighs just 240g. The down side is that it is very noisy, especially for the wearer, which in an emergency situation could be bewildering, or even limit how well instructions are received by a casualty. I’ve cut a little opening in the neck- making it easier for the wearer to pull the hood down if they find it too claustrophobic. The jacket is great option for walking wounded or mild hypothermia victims, who can be walked off the hill but need to be kept warm, and cut open, it could provide immediate insulation for immobile casualties, before they can be transferred to a casualty bag. ■ www.blizzardsurvival.com
n tai oun
www.m I’m very familiar with Lifesystems’ Mountain Leader first aid kit- it is the basic building blocks from which my “work kit” is built. Over the years I’ve adapted it- reflecting the environment I work in, and my first aid skills. The “Pro” version, takes it to the next level, aiming to provide sufficient provisions for expedition leaders and base camps of up to 16 people. Inside are supplies to handle multiple minor injuries, a smattering of serious lacerations, and more unusual problems in a far from help situation. In this environment, the first aider may also have to provide lots of after care. Contents include the usual gloves, crepe bandages, dressings, swabs and tapes, with plenty of fabric dressings for lesser cuts and grazes and a Resusciade. More specialist paraphernalia includes scalpel, dental care kit, hypodermic needles and syringes. This is useful stuff, but it’s quite an expensive kit, so I’d like to see more basics such as cleansing wipes (I could use the twelve supplied in a few days on minor scrapes with some groups I’ve worked with), and low adherent dressings (only two). I’d also be tempted to tuck in a splint. It’s a good starting point - and expedition leaders will want to add to it, plus the tough nylon case will certainly accommodate more. Weight: 1130g ■ www.lifesystems.co.uk
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OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 47
GEAR GUIDE
Outdoor Lighting WITH THE NIGHTS DRAWING IN, TOM HUTTON SURVEYS A WIDE RANGE OF HEADTORCHES.
np rom ag.com
ALPKIT ARC, £32.50 The Arc is a true workhorse of a torch, with an impressive performance and some well thought out BEST BUY features. In operation, it’s really simple with five settings: two full beams, two more i diffused sidelights and a powerful flash. The softest of the sidelights is perfect ta www.moun for tent use etc, and the brighter one is good enough for walking on good paths. I did find I needed a bit more power for definition off the beaten track though, so resorted to the lower of the two main beam settings to bag a few night time summits and the most powerful full beam (190 Lumens) is excellent – good enough to pick up a wall or similar at over 100m when navigating. Battery life is decent, with over 150 hours on the lowest setting – think camp use only here but more importantly, the quick change battery box system, makes it possible to use rechargeable AAs and to carry a spare set, which can swopped in moments without even taking the torch off. I hate buying batteries but relying on rechargeables on a lamp can always be a bit dicey. This system is worth its weight in gold to me and definitely clinches the Best Buy Award. Weight: 205g. ■ www.alpkit.com
VANGO CORVUS 100, £22
FENIX HL50, £44.95 The HL50 is a fairly unconventional lamp – quite literally a small torch mounted on a headband. It can be ran on a CR123 battery or a single AA – the former gives best performance, the latter is more convenient to buy. At first glance, I wasn’t quite sure about it but once I’d spent a few hours in the hills at night using it, I was a convert. Firstly, it’s incredible light for the performance – just 80g with the CR123 battery. Secondly, I like the simple swivel action required to point the beam where you want it – low while walking but perhaps up briefly to scope ahead and finally, the performance is very impressive. The low setting is fine for tents/refuge dorms etc but not walking. The mid setting is perfect for walking and will give over 9 hours too; the high will pick out a sign, gate or trig point. It also has a 365 Lumen burst that is really helpful for relocation etc. It’s not as impressive on the AA, so I’d definitely recommend sticking to the CR123 and keeping a few in stock. Second place only to the immense power of the Led Lenser. Weight: 80g. ■ www.myfenix.co.uk 48 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
The Corvus represents the budget end of the selection tested, and at 90g, it’s one of the lightest too – so it’s not one you’d worry about carrying ‘just in case’. It’s another that comes with a battery life indicator – life’s so much easier if you know where you stand on battery life. At full throttle, it kicks out 100 Lumens – enough for sighting when navigating – and it returns the kind of battery life you’d expect for this power output, with an impressive 9 hours on full, and up to 50 on the lower settings. That lower setting is fine for walking on good terrain. Batteries aren’t included though, so add a few pounds to cover these; and rechargeables aren’t recommended – a definite mark lost in my book. The strap is comfortable and easily adjustable. Overall, it’s a functional, well-priced unit that will definitely do a job for anyone on a budget. Weight: 90g. ■ www.vango.co.uk
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GEAR GUIDE
BLACK DIAMOND REVOLT, £70 The Revolt is a reasonably lightweight, well-built lamp that takes the middle ground between weight, performance and longevity; and has a few very useful features that make it very functional out on the trail. At full blast it delivers 130 Lumens – not loads, but enough for scoping reasonably close objects. And it will deliver excellent battery life at this setting, up to 80 hours, with almost 300 available on the lower settings. The switch takes some getting used to, but once I had it dialled, I really liked it – particularly the dimmer, which made it very easy to get just enough light to read/cook etc. It’s an immensely robust little unit, and I really like the battery meter – it’s always good to know how you’re doing. Another great feature is that fact that it can be charged via a USB connection, rather than needing to remove the batteries. It takes standard AAA too – readily available if you’re travelling. Weight: 100g. ■ eu.blackdiamondequipment.com
EDITOR’S CHOICE
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LED LENSER XEO19R, £229.95
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This is a monster of a torch, both in size and performance, and while I can’t prove whether it is or isn’t the world’s brightest head torch, it is without a doubt the brightest I have ever used – 2000 Lumens is quite extreme. It’s incredibly versatile too. It can be worn and used as a traditional headtorch, with the battery pack attached to the headband. It can be used with an extension cable, so the battery can be carried in a pocket or on a belt, keeping weight off the head and keeping it warm in cold weather. Or the battery and lamp can be removed from the headband altogether and carried as a torch or mounted on a helmet or bike. Performance is stunning, on full beam it lights up the mountain, with a maximum range of around 300m – more than enough light to run or ride with and battery life isn’t too bad provided you don’t run it on boost all the time (8 hours at 1000 lumens). It has plenty of beam options too; with a unique switch that provides stepless zooming and makes it possible to run either of the two lamps independently. It also has an emergency, 10 Lumen, setting that should provide 400 hours – I haven’t managed to test that! The battery pack also acts as a USB charger – useful in an emergency. It’s a specialist bit of kit: Hill walkers and climbers don’t usually need this much light but if you run or mountain bike at night, it’s absolutely superb and I can see it finding favour with rescue teams too. Weight: 485g. ■ www.ledlenser.com
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PRINCETON TEC SYNC, £34.95 The Sync is a simple, functional lamp that is light enough to carry anywhere and will do 90% of the tasks you’d ever want a torch to do with little fuss. It also has some great, though simple, design features. I really like the way the switch works, with a safe locking position and the red light being the first thing you activate – perfect if you don’t want to destroy night vision and the low beam being the next – again ideal if you are in a dorm or tent and want to put your light on without blinding everyone while you sort it out. The performance is adequate if not earth-shattering for walking – 90 Lumens is plenty bright enough for normal use and the low flood beam is great to walk with and correspondingly, battery life is superb – it should give around 150 hours on 3 x AAAs on low flood and an impressive 75 hours on the Dual Beam spot. Overall, it’s inexpensive and does a good job – highly recommended. Weight: 85g. ■ www.princetontec.com
PETZL MYO, £80 The Myo is a superb compromise between the mega high performance of the Led Lenser and the lighter weight, smaller size of the Fenix. It’s seriously well made, so will take the knocks and scrapes when in use or when buried in the bottom of a pack, and it’s super simple in operation. Performance is excellent – 280 Lumens on full beam, and a burst of daylight inducing 370 Lumens to locate that key attack point when navigating. Out of the box, it offers 4 lighting settings with constant lighting (the light doesn’t dim as the battery runs out) on the lower settings and battery life for the Economic setting, which is more than adequate to walk with, is more than adequate for a few alpine starts or a long night walk. Make use of the programmable settings and you can stretch 20 Lumens out to an impressive 40 hours but battery life isn’t a huge problem with the Myo, due the excellent indicator light that shows when you are 70% and 90% discharged - real peace of mind. It also takes rechargeables. An ideal lamp for a serious outdoor person or perhaps a leader/instructor. Weight: 175g. ■ www.petzl.com OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 49
TRIED AND TESTED
Tried & Tested CHANTELLE KELLY SPOKE TO LUCY CREAMER, ONE OF BRITAIN’S MOST ACCOMPLISHED FEMALE CLIMBERS. CAN YOU TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOURSELF? I was introduced to climbing when I was at college but I was playing a lot of basketball and volleyball at the time. It wasn’t until a few years later that I really caught the bug and that as they say, was that; my life has revolved around climbing ever since. I started climbing trad and am very grateful for this, as it really suits my personality and climbing-style. I discovered sport climbing early on too and found I also loved this, and of course comps. Coming from a mainstream sport background, comps were very natural for me and they were a great focus for training. WHAT CLIMBING SHOES DO YOU USE? I use Scarpa rock shoes and have been sponsored by them for well over 50 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
ten years now. Fortunately, they completely suit my feet otherwise I guess it wouldn’t work. They are very good at developing products and keep designing better shoes every year. I prefer velcros and slippers, so at the moment I’m climbing in Instinct VS and the updated Stix. WHAT ARE YOUR GO-TO BRANDS FOR CLIMBING EQUIPMENT? Over the years I have been involved with a good selection of hardware companies, so have quite a good comparison for what is available. The last 6-7 years I have been involved with DMM and what I love about them, apart from the fact all their products are de-signed and manufactured in Wales, is that using their gear has revolutionised my www.mountainpromag.com
TRIED AND TESTED
All photos: Tim Glasby
search on the route usually provides some sort of crack that an RP can be waggled into. They might be small but they are perfectly formed! WHAT ROUTE HAS BEEN YOUR GREAT ACHIEVEMENT? It would be a trad route on Sharpnose Point in Devon called ‘Coronary Country’ E6 6b. I had spent a month in Ceuse and was very fit, and thought it was the perfect opportunity to try some hard trad routes. This one was very close to the top of my list and it didn’t disappoint. I found the crux extremely hard and I was hanging on to holds that barely seemed to exist, with my feet scrabbling to get some purchase on the merest hint of a foothold. Somehow I managed to fight through this section and get to the top, but just as I was ap-proaching the top I pulled up on a hold and the whole thing came away in my hand. I’m not sure how I managed not to topple off backwards but somehow, I stayed on and got to the top.
trad rack. I’m not the most organised or fashion conscious person, so my rack was always a bit of a mish mash of gear. Now it looks beautiful but more importantly is extremely light-weight. I look back and can’t believe I was climbing the hard routes I did with the heavy rack I had. WHAT PIECE OF KIT DO YOU USE THE MOST? It would have to be a toss up between the RP/Imp micro-nut and a piece of clothing. Marmot brought out a lightweight jacket called The Driclime over ten years ago and it became an instant hit. It has since evolved and improved into one of my most useful trad climbing pieces. It’s very lightweight but also windproof and provides me with enough warmth when hanging on belays or climbing in the wind. It packs up small too which I find very useful if I need to climb with it attached to my harness. Getting back to the RP/Imp, these little beau-ties have saved the day many a time. Just when you’re at the point where you are feeling out of your depth and there’s no gear to be found, a bit of a www.mountainpromag.com
DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE LOCATION FOR CLIMBING? That’s easy, the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire. DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR CHOOSING A QUALITY HARNESS? There aren’t any particularly bad products on the market; there are just harnesses with different features. So you need to decide what style of climbing you mostly do and how many gear loops you need to carry your gear. If you only climb indoors, you don’t really need five gear loops for example. Also, do you require leg loops that you can adjust and do you climb in situations where you might have more or less clothing on? Then you need to find a harness that works with your waist to leg size ratio. Have a hang in it in the shop, to check it feels comfy and you like the feel of it on your body.
You can follow Lucy’s projects on her website: www.lucycreamer.com OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 51
GEAR GUIDE
Cutting Edge DAVID LINTERN AND LUCY WALLACE GET TO GRIPS WITH 3 NEW PRODUCTS. MANFROTTO OFF ROAD HIKER BACKPACK £169.95
DMM VENTURE WOMEN’S HARNESS £65
This is a ‘half and half’ rucksack designed with DSLR camera users in mind. I say half and half because the bag is split in 2, with the top part a volumous area for your food and hill kit, and the bottom part very well padded to secure a pro level camera and at least 2 lenses. It’ll take a longer zoom (around 200mm) plus 1 other, and is accessed with a side pocket. The padding is user configurable and can be removed altogether and the 2 way split unzipped, leaving you with 1 compartment of 30 litres. Elsewhere there’s a front zipped pocket, additional zipped and meshed pocket, daisy chains and bungee cords for securing hiking poles and tripod, and 2 hip belt pockets as well as a top lid, internal pocket and raincover. There’s an additional strap near the sternum to secure a camera when wearing it around your neck. The pack is very structured in order to protect the camera gear inside, and the weight reflects that, but it does carry very well under load, aided by a ventilated back and good lumber support. Application wise, I can see this working well for those doing wildlife and landscape photography on less technical ground, where the kit is heavier and setups are longer. It might not suit sports and adventure ‘togs so well, for the same reasons. Weight 1.9kg DL ■ www.manfrotto.co.uk
The versatile Venture is part of DMM’s new fleet of lightweight harnesses. Featuring adjustable leg loops and proportions designed to fit the female shape, it is very comfortable both to climb and to dangle in, despite having a low pack size. The waist belt carries four generous gear loops plus two slots for the new Vault ice screw holders (or similar), and an accessory/haul loop at the back. This turned out to be a bit of a conversation piece when testing- in contrast webbing that matches the loadbearing parts of the waist belt, and bar stitching, it looks like it could be load bearing - but absolutely isn’t (and doesn’t need to be). The harness feels lovely and flexible to climb in, even when fully racked up with gear, and the cut away foam padding provides extra breathability, whilst the subtle curvy shape moves with the body without being intrusive. The sizing is flatteringly generous, and very adjustable. With a 29” waist, I went for a medium (28’-32”) but have found myself on it’s minimum worn over a couple of layers so probably could size down. The adjustability is excellent however – this is one harness that should be as at home on a sunny rock face worn over a t shirt, as a freezing winter climb with full shell gear underneath. LW ■ www.dmmclimbing.com
MSR FREELITE 1 £310 This is the brand’s lightest freestanding 1 person tent, weighing in on my scales at just over a kilo all in, and available from January 2016 onwards. The inner features a bathtub groundsheet, a mesh upper with a pocket at the head end, 5 hangloops and a 2-way zipper. There’s plenty of room to sit up, and around the sides and ends for gear. The fly creates a porch big enough for wet gear and for cooking (with appropriate safety ventilation in place, naturally!), with guy lines on the cardinal points, which create a really robust shelter that deals well with gusts, even broadside. The single pole hooks into eyelets on the inner at the roof and shelter ends, and it’s possible to double up on most of the pegs. Construction is solid as you’d expect from MSR, it packs down tiny, and I had zero issues with condensation in a wide mix of conditions over several days. So what’s the downside? My chief gripe is that it pitches inner first, which in the UK is far from ideal. Try as I might to work around this, the shelter’s strength comes from the inner and outer working together as a unit. The ultimate result, whichever way you pitch in the rain, is a wet inner. Less importantly, the rear needs a little shockcord to pull the fly away from the inner, and the fly could use toggles on both sides of the door to enable a full view and more flexible pitching. As usual with lightweight tents the pegs need swapping out for something more burly. Overall, the Freelite is a great shelter, built to deal with sandy and snowy terrain, or dry, rocky ground above treeline where bug protection and the freestanding aspect would really excel. In the UK hills however, the single, fatal flaw is inner-first pitching. DL ■ www.cascadedesigns.com/ie/msr 52 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2015
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