6. Mpro January2016

M PRO

FOR THOSE THAT WORK AND PLAY OUTDOORS

WWW.MOUNTAINPROMAG.COM JANUARY 2016

NICK BULLOCK TOM BALLARD CHRIS SHARMA A history of mountaineering gear ■ EVEREST 1924 ■ KENDAL ■ WILDLIFE MONITORING ■ REVIEWED: PACKS, INSULATION, HARDWARE

Welcome Contributors Nick Bullock is a nomadic writer and a climber with an opinion, imagination and an open mind. He enjoys all aspects of climbing, and dislikes inequality and anything ending with an ‘ism’. www.nickbullock-climber.co.uk/

Alex Roddie is a freelance writer, editor, and lover of wild places. He has a passion for the mountains of Britain and Europe and has published two novels, The Only Genuine Jones and The Atholl Expedition, both available on Amazon Kindle. www.alexroddie.com.

This winter issue of Mountain Pro is fuller than I think it’s ever been, and we’ve chosen to major on the cultural and historical. To start, there’s a history of winter mountaineering equipment, an extract from the record of the 1924 British Everest Expedition, and an introduction to the work of the Mountain Heritage Trust. We got to see a few more shows at this year’s Kendal Mountain Festival, and that’s reflected in our expanded news and reviews section from the festival. For me the highlight was a quiet but revealing documentary about Tom Ballard (reviewed on page 7), who last year followed in family footsteps to complete a first on the big 6 Alpine North Faces. Tom took a few minutes to talk ice tools and vibram in our Tried and Tested feature. Elsewhere, Chris Sharma recovers from hard rock by building an indoor gym, Above and Beyond spend a day with Northumberland MRT, and we review winter packs, synthetic insulation and winter walking hardware. To round things out, there are two installments of wildlife monitoring, from Scotland to Slovakia.

Lastly, a big thanks to Nick Bullock for a look inside his forthcoming book, Tides. I’m not sure which is bolder, but I’ve been a fan of both Nick’s climbing and writing for an age, so it’s a great privilege to have him contribute something for the magazine.

Rudolf Abraham is an award-winning travel writer and photographer specialising in Central and Eastern Europe. He is the author of eight books and has contributed to many more, and is published widely in magazines. rudolfabraham.co.uk

Dr Liz Auty is the John Muir Trust’s biodiversity officer and the property manager for East Schiehallion. She has been visiting mountains to search for wildflowers since an early age, and gained her PhD studying primulas in Upper Teesdale.

Claire Carter is a freelance writer based in Sheffield, near the Grit. She climbs, runs and ski tours. She is also the film officer for Kendal Mountain Festival.

Chantelle Kelly is our editorial assistant without whom interviews, book reviews and more would not happen. She is relatively new to the great outdoors, but learns fast!

Lucy Wallace is a freelance Winter Mountain Leader, Wildlife Guide and Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Assessor based in Scotland. She works with adult and youth groups, coaching navigation and hill walking skills, as well as leading schools’ expeditions overseas.

Tom Hutton is a freelance mountain leader and mountain bike guide, as well as an award-winning outdoors writer and photographer. He’s based in Snowdonia but is lucky enough to work throughout the UK.

See you on the hill,

Da vid

David Lintern, Editor

Tom Braley is a copywriter based in Newcastle Upon Tyne. He works for Above and Beyond where he combines his love of word with a passion for The Great Outdoors.

Nicole Reeve is responsible for the day to day running of Mountain Heritage Trust, her roles include administration, social-media and marketing. Based in the Lake District, Nicole is also a keen rock climber. www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 3

Contents Pilgrim’s Progress

Tom Ballard

Interview: Chris Sharma

Nick Bullock

REVIEWS BEST OF KENDAL FILM KENDAL MOUNTAIN FILMMAKING SUMMIT 2015 KENDAL FILM AWARDS INTERVIEW: CHRIS SHARMA THE MOUNTAIN HERITAGE TRUST NICK BULLOCK: TIDES MANAGING EMERGENCIES THE FIGHT FOR EVEREST 1924 HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING GEAR NOTES FROM THE FAIRY MOUNTAIN: WINTER WILDLIFE MONITORING IN SLOVAKIA GEAR: MOUNTAIN PACKS, HIM GEAR: MOUNTAIN PACKS, HER GEAR: GAITERS GEAR: SYNTHETIC LOFTING INSULATION GEAR: AXES AND CRAMPONS TRIED AND TESTED: TOM BALLARD CUTTING EDGE

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6 7 8 10 13 18 22 24 30 32 36 42 44 50 52 53 54 56 58 60

THE TEAM EDITOR: David Lintern e: david.lintern@targetpublishing.com GEAR EDITOR: Tom Hutton e: tom.hutton@targetpublishing.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Chantelle Kelly e: editorial@targetpublishing.com SUB EDITOR: Suzanne Cann e: suzanne.cann@targetpublishing.com SALES DIRECTOR: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 GROUP SALES MANAGER: James Lloyd e: james.lloyd@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810069 SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE: Chris Kemp e: chris.kemp@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810083 DESIGN/PRODUCTION: Hannah Wade e: hannah.wade@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810076 MARKETING EXECUTIVE: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810091 MANAGING DIRECTOR: David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com Some material may be speculative and/or not in agreement with current medical practice. Information in FSN is provided for professional education and debate and is not intended to be used by non-medically qualified readers as a substitute for, or basis of, medical treatment. Copyright of articles remains with individual authors. All rights reserved. No article may be reproduced in any form, printed or electronically, without wriiten consent of the author and publisher. Copying for use in education or marketing requires permission of the author and publisher and is prohibited without that permission. Articles may not be scanned for use on personal or commercial websites or CD-ROMs. Published by Target Publishing Limited. Colour reproduction & printing by The Magazine Printing Company, Enfield, Middx. EN3 7NT www.magprint.co.uk . ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material lin accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication.

15

60

YEARS

2000-2015

Published by Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ t: 01279 816300 f: 01279 816496 e: info@targetpublishing.com www.targetpublishing.com

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Cover image Tom Ballard

Reviews DAVID LINTERN AND TOM HUTTON SETTLE DOWN WITH SOME GOOD BOOKS (AND A GREAT FILM).

THE BOOK OF THE BOTHY Published by Cicerone £12.95 It’s not often a book comes along that adds a whole new dimension to your time in the hills, but The Book of the Bothy could do just that. It falls somewhere between a guidebook to UK bothies, and providing a narrative of the author’s own hillwalking and bothying adventures, and there’s a risk it might get lost in this gap. But that would be a shame. Smith does an excellent job of capturing the atmosphere of bothying, and she does it a warm, easy to read fashion that is bound to encourage bothy virgins to pack a stove and a hip flask and head out to see what it’s really like. She names and details 26 of her own favourites across England and Wales as well as Scotland, and she makes it very easy indeed to visit these as a taster. She also provides plenty of detail about the ethics of bothy use, with the hope that any of her readers that do head out on their own adventure will do the right thing when they are there. For me, a great book that made me want to head for hills immediately. TH

MOUNTAIN BOTHIES: CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF THE MBA Published by the MBA, £10 This is the DIY, make do and mend response to other book about bothies on this page. In some ways they are complimentary, which is why we’ve chosen to review both here. The MBA offering is not about to convince newbies of the charm of a cold stone shack. Instead, it’s a lovingly put together and wide ranging collection of reports, fables, anecdotes, histories, drawings and photographs by, for and about bothy obsessives. I love it, but can’t read it cover to cover – it’s a reference guide for me, when I want to find out more about a particular building, perhaps when seeking background to share with others once we’re on our way. Herein are hilarious tales, dubious typeface and a whole lot of history about the organisation itself. The most moving chapter for me is ‘The buildings and the People’ which attempts to trace the stories of these lonely structures when they were more than temporary shelters for wandering hill bums – when they were homes. Utterly charming, and invaluable reading for hill geeks. Plus all proceeds to the MBA. What more could you want? DL

IN SOME LOST PLACE Published by Vertebrate Publishing, £24 I’ll cut to the chase: ‘In some lost place’ is a breath-taking, disarmingly honest first person confessional that I was barely been able to put down. The facts are now well known: In the summer of 2012, Sandy Allen led a team of 6 onto the Mazeno ridge, the longest unclimbed line to an 8,000m summit in the world. A fraction shorter than the Cuillin ridge at 10kms long, but all at over 7,000m, this way onto Nanga Parbat had stalled 10 expeditions before theirs. His and Rick Allen’s success and near death experience on the route, for which they subsequently won the Poilet D’or, is told simply and chronologically, but there’s much more than just suffering and adventure. Insight into Sandy’s psychological approach as a mountain guide and expedition leader, a personal reflection on the role of friends and mentors in progressing mountaineering in general and the Mazeno in particular, a frank description of beginning to lose his mind at altitude, and finally the insight into his understanding of grace in high places, which I found incredibly moving. This is a humbling account of possibly the boldest British mountaineering accomplishment in a generation. DL

SHERPA – DIRECTED BY JENNIFER PEEDOM A new film from Universal charts the disastrous Everest season of 2014. The director aimed to get a Sherpas point of view on climbing Everest after witnessing the famous flareup of 2013, and was on the ground to document the appalling loss of life and resulting Sherpa strike the following year. Footage from veteran cinematographer Renan Ozturk is beautiful and terrible in equal measure, rich with his trademark desaturated colours, textures and slo mo, but never mind the eye candy – there’s genuine substance as well as style here. Access to both Sherpa family life and the accident as it unfolds is moving and non-judgemental. Analysis is offered by a very chilly, pensive looking Ed Douglas who helps navigate the complicated politics of the mountain, and offers insight into the tacit racism of the relationships between Sherpas and Foreign visitors, cloaked in over a century of imperialism. Exped leader Russell Brice comes off as the best of a guilty bunch, but even he doesn’t get away scot-free in this. The take home message is that a new breed of Sherpa is no longer subservient to the Sahib. This film may ruffle some feathers but is the most significant mountain film you will see this year – absolutely unmissable. DL 6 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

www.mountainpromag.com

REVIEWS

Best of Kendal films and events

DAVID LINTERN AND LUCY WALLACE PICK OUT SOME FAVOURITES FROM THE RECENT KENDAL PROGRAM. TRANSITION

BLACK DIAMOND ALPINE SESSION

The latest offering from the house of Hotaches Productions tracks Natalie Berry’s transition from the top end of sport and competition climbing, to the deep end of hard trad and Scottish winter. There are elements of this journey that will chime with most climbers- from staring at a rack of nuts and wondering which will fit, to learning how to swing an ice axe to full effect.

But Natalie’s story is far from typical, her mentor is Dave McLeod, arguably Britain’s best all round climber, and she takes a master-class from queen of traditional climbing, Lucy Creamer. Her first winter route is The Promised Land, a grade VI on Beinn Dorain and before the film is out, she’s tackling an E7. However, not everything goes to plan for Natalie or Dave, and without giving too much away, the transition is hard fought.

Directors Paul Diffley and Chris Prescott capture the jeopardy, and the steely characters of the main protagonists. Natalie herself comes across as self possessed and single-minded, cool under pressure (mostly) and determined to succeed. With breathtaking locations, and excellent footage of the action, this is a film that climbers will love, and is no doubt destined to become a classic. LW

One of the must see non film events for myself and our gear guru Lucy, this was a triple bill slide show lecture from: Chamonix guide Cerrado Pesce, boulderer turned mountaineer Babsi Zangerl and alpinist Ines Papert, recent star of Scottish winter route ‘The Hurting’. Pesce gave a funny and impressive talk linking past and present routes and reflecting incisively how changes in gear have made things safer and faster. Covering some of his 14 routes on the Grand Jorasses he examined the balance between a desire to free some of these historic lines with the need to be safe. Babsi related her journey through injury from bouldering to roped mountaineering, sharing thoughts on personal progress leading to an impressive and persistent performance on Bellavista in the Dolomites. Ines delighted the audience with a clear appreciation of Scottish winter, where for her ‘placing gear is the crux’. She spoke sagely about mentor Ian Parnell and about the importance of strong partners with a positive outlook, as well as humbly about more recent attempts to balance family life with a slightly insane project to enchain 3 Alpine North faces using a handglider! The passion of all was clear to see. This was a joyful but serious celebration of skills and dedication from 3 leaders in their respective fields. DL

Dir: Paul Diffley and Chris Prescott

TOM

Dir: Angel Esteban and Elena Goatelli A straight and true documentary about Tom Ballard, son of the legendary Alison Hargreaves. The filmmakers stalk Tom and father James, as Tom attempts to be the first to solo all 6 great North Faces of the Alps in a single winter season. Moodily scored, elegantly paced and subtly edited, the film marries the climber’s own urgent Go Pro footage with a keen sense of direction from those behind the camera on terra firma. Clearly Tom is a product of an upbringing immersed in climbing culture and driven to the point of obsession, but the filmmakers don’t overstate the psychological reasons for his ambition, and instead simply witness the action as it unfolds, allowing Tom to do his own talking when he is ready. Directors Esteban and Goatelli seem to have secured the trust of the family and access to what was obviously a very personal mountaineering project, and utterly believable footage. In a world of hammy hyperbolic advenchurn, it’s a huge relief to see something this sensitively made. ‘Tom’ is a quiet, honest and intense portrait of a young man on a personal journey to the heart of the mountain. Winner of best Mountaineering Film at Kendal. DL www.mountainpromag.com

LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY NOW One of Kendal’s expanding program of literary and arts events, this was an intelligent and questioning gathering of pro’s and amateurs working across landscape photography, from commercial outdoors work to those exploring documentary, memory, history and environment. Short presentations were followed by an interesting lecture from teacher and photographer Jesse Alexander, who sought to question some of the visual tropes peculiar to the Victorian Sublime and much traditional landscape work.

Of particular note was a gender critique of the Sublime. A nicely shepherded panel by conveners Red Eye rounded things out. The broad church of landscape work was represented well here, and whilst no firm conclusions were reached, it is clear that there is more to contemporary landscape work than just ‘good light’. Excellent to see this on the program and well organised by ranconteur lensman Henry Iddon. DL JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 7

Film ALL ROADS LEAD TO SCOTLAND A film from Coldhouse Collective and Mountain Equipment featuring Mountain Pro feature contributor Nick Bullock, and guide Tim Neill.

OPERATION MOFFAT INTERVIEW A behind the scenes look at the award winning film from Jen Randall and Mountain Pro Columnist Claire Carter, which follows Claire as she explores the life and times of her climbing hero Gwen Moffat.

8 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

www.mountainpromag.com

GET CARTER

Kendal Mountain Filmmaking Summit 2015 IN HER ROLE AS KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL FILM OFFICER, CLAIRE CARTER REPORTS ON THE FUNDING, AUDIENCE AND PROFESSIONAL PRESSURES IN ADVENTURE FILMMAKING.

F

or a second year running, Kendal Mountain Festival held

focused on heritage or life spanning adventure rather than the

an Industry Filmmakers Summit. We get the people that

high octane, moment-of risk. Were the two trends in conjunction?

provide the content and much of the inspiration for the festival; the filmmakers together with brands, production

Judging by last year’s debate, filmmakers at least still wanted to record the hardcore, alongside original narratives and arty

and industry media in one room talking about their work and

climbing shorts. The issue was funding them. Despite much

the issues they face. Ideally together we find some solutions,

enthusiasm for adventure content from broadcasters, little has

even if it’s as simple as a card exchange. Last year the big topic

actually happened in a year. With the death of the DVD and the

was ‘Authenticity in Adventure Film’. As Cliff Bar, sponsor of

untenable fight against piracy, it’s still difficult to sell adventure

the climbing film tour Reel Rock dropped several of their A-List

film to an audience. Currently the main mode of funding is

characters for ‘unjustified risk’ in the mountains, it seemed the

brand sponsorship. As the adventure industry grows, brands are

underwriters of the industry were in danger of losing their of

stretching to become relevant to a changing consumer base. Are

sense of adventure. At the same time many of the films in festival

the 80’s ‘extreme’ brands begun in the Baby Boom still attractive

10 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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to millennials looking at Air B and B and ‘Re-Wilding’ holidays for their escapes?

The 2015 European Outdoor Summit held in Sheffield in October highlighted the fashion for adventure tribes, consumers looking to brands for mountain hipster or lumber sexual identities.

Sally McCoy, CEO of Camelbak suggested that the ’social camper’s’ wielding their spending power in the industry didn’t hold the old adventure hero ‘The Alpinist’ as their own, and brands would need to identify new athletes and new stories to stay relevant.

As brands follow or attempt to set consumer trends, the filmmakers must bend to fit their ideas to brand narratives. We could end up with very homogeneous adventure films. This year we had a number of independent films submitted, but they were almost entirely cultural documentaries. Adventure filmmakers are stretched between ‘passion projects’ and commercial work to keep them afloat. Judging by a number of KMF submissions, attempts to combine these can result in overtly advertorial content that struggles to maintain the authenticity that so many championed in last years debate.

Filmmakers are facing unrealistic expectations to produce content for exposure. Most travel unpaid for work, won’t get paid if shoots are canceled due to mountain weather and don’t own the end product. As low-end cameras and equipment get cheaper, more are making adventure content for free, but the cost of high quality production continues to go up. As an example, without an expensive sound mix a film is unlikely to make to into a festival, and aside from Vimeo Staff Picks, these remain one of the only avenues for recognition in the industry. Most adventure filmmakers have to operate as a one-man band, staying on top of industry standards of cinematography, sound, colour-grading and edit. The pressure on filmmakers continues to mount.

For the 2015 Filmmaker Summit, we wanted to look at the state of adventure filmmakers as well as the state of the industry: How are they surviving, what are their top tools for efficiency and creativity, and what does their future look like? How can the people gathered at the Filmmakers Summit take responsibility for keeping the industry varied and inspiring.

We invited a statesman of adventure film, Pete Mortimer for a Q and A. Pete owns the uber-successful Reel Rock Tour. Producing a line up of films each year, his collective production company send three to five films on tour across the globe to sell out audiences, underwriting next year’s ideas in the process.

‘The interview with Peter was really inspiring, refreshing, reassuring…’ Jen Randall, Co-director of Operation Moffat.

Having a passion project filmmaker on stage was akin to having a unicorn in the room. His upbeat interview provided a glimpse of hope in the shape of innovative cinema, and films that translate into live action shows making an audience a community. However, perhaps this was just ‘an insight into the situation in the US, where more money is pumped into outdoor adventure productions.’ Natalie Berry, UKC www.mountainpromag.com

ADVENTURE FILMMAKERS ARE STRETCHED BETWEEN ‘PASSION PROJECTS’ AND COMMERCIAL WORK TO KEEP THEM AFLOAT. JUDGING BY A NUMBER OF KMF SUBMISSIONS, ATTEMPTS TO COMBINE THESE CAN RESULT IN OVERTLY ADVERTORIAL CONTENT JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 11

GET CARTER

assistant editor and star of Hot Aches production Transition.

Following Pete’s American adventures, a range of filmmakers

authenticity in adventure, and looked to the audience for support.

Steve Robinson described his disillusioned departure from

presented differing snapshots of their best pieces of kit,

TV and encouraged filmmakers that the new sharing economy

their storyboarding method, top pieces of movie marketing,

incentivized individuals to back content they want to see made.

their filmmaking inspiration, their worst day at work, their

Audience members rated Crowd Funding as a viable method of

collaborations of the year and visions for the future. Katie Moore,

financing. Rachel from Lowe Alpine stepped in to describe how

both commercially and independently successful, was over from

her brand matched filmmakers to their message, trusting them

Chamonix presenting ‘Langtang’ and ‘Back to the Fjords’ at the

to create original content. Alex Messenger asked filmmakers to

festival. Katie talked of the inspiration she had found working on

approach him with ideas, the online streaming channel BMCTV

a more cultural topic as she accompanied the ultra runner Killian

being currently the only non-commercial commissioner for

Jornet to post-earthquake Nepal. A shift in focus was common.

adventure film.

Nick Brown, who found fame in 2012 with the pure climbing film ‘Life on Hold’ has turned his attention to the emotive with

Alex Messenger (BMC) described the Summit; “Free wine, great people and all the best filmmakers in one

‘In the Bubble’, the story of climber Andy Earl who suffered a

place? What’s not to like? The summit really pushed home the

dramatic stroke. Nick talked about the inspiration he found in his

point that collaboration is key.’’

interviews with Andy’s wife Susan and his best days working with

BMCTV is in a unique position, but other platforms are

mad climbers (Nick Bullock) and rad camera men (Ben Pritchard).

beginning to see the benefit in making their own content, with

The subjects, family and colleagues of adventure filmmakers

UKC and SteepEdge present at the Summit and backing new films.

seems to be what keeps them going as they disappear off into the wilds of the industry. Lukasz Warzecha feted his new finance as

Mark Held, (Director European Outdoor Group) said “Really glad I took the time to attend as it opened a window

his heroine. No one was yet wedded to their drone. Paul Diffley

onto just how much creative energy there is in the film sector. The

rounded off with a reminder to us all to stay in the moment and

use of film as a tool within the wider outdoor sector needs more

constantly reassess our methodology with Snoopy’s mantra: ‘Where am I going, what am I doing, what is the meaning of life?’.

discussion, I will be attending again next year.“

Finally, we welcomed the panel: KMF founder Brian Hall, BAFTA

Having a strong story and working between partner brands who identify with your message seems to be key to funding adventure

winning director and producer Steve Robinson, Emmy wining

film. The next step for the UK should be to look at the way we

TV Producer turned Alpinist and Adventure filmmaker Steve

present film off-line in the model of Reel Rock or theatrical

Wakeford, Marketing Manager of Lowe Alpine Rachel Brine and

presentations like the specialist sessions at KMF. Many adventure

BMC Head of Communications and Marketing Alex Messenger.

consumers are tribal rather than individualists, and community

Getting straight to the money, Brian described the movement of the industry since the festivals inception in 1980 and his fear that the days of original, authentic adventure film might be over.

Steve Wakeford combated that he had left TV to rediscover his 12 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

cinema experiences could be the next big event for ‘social campers’.

Watch this space, we may soon be glamping under a cinema canopy at a crag near you. www.mountainpromag.com

FILM

Kendal

wins again

EACH NOVEMBER, KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL HOSTS AN INTIMATE BUT EVER EXPANDING FESTIVAL OF OUTDOOR ADVENTURE FILMS AND EVENTS. THESE ARE THIS YEARS FILM WINNERS.

BEST CLIMBING FILM AND PEOPLE’S CHOICE: OPERATION MOFFAT (DIRECTED BY JEN RANDALL & CLAIRE CARTER)

www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 13

FILM

BEST MOUNTAINEERING FILM: TOM (DIRECTED BY ANGEL ESTABAN & ELENA GOATELLI)

BEST ADVENTURE & EXPLORATION FILM: THE ADVENTURES OF DODO (DIRECTED BY SEAN VILLANUEVA O’DRISCOLL)

14 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

www.mountainpromag.com

BEST SOUND: FREEFALL (DIRECTED BY AIMARD ALEXANDRE)

BEST SHORT FILM: DENALI (DIRECTED BY BEN KNIGHT)

www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 15

FILM

GRAND PRIZE: K2 TOUCHING THE SKY (DIRECTED BY ELIZA KUBARSKA)

JUDGES SPECIAL PRIZE: THE RIDER AND THE WOLF (DIRECTED BY NATHAN WARD)

16 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

www.mountainpromag.com

Are You Ready?

INTERVIEW

KING

OF KINGS

CHANTELLE KELLY CAUGHT UP WITH CHRIS SHARMA, TO FIND OUT ABOUT THE FIRST ASCENT OF LA DURA DURA, ‘THE HARD HARD’.

CAN YOU TELL ME ABOUT YOURSELF? I am 34 years old and recently got married. I live between Spain and California. My current project is SharmaClimbingBCN - my first climbing gym in Barcelona. It has just opened, I have a great team helping me and we are excited to be able to offer a world class facility here in Spain. I want to share the gym climbing experience that I had, with a new generation!

YOU FIRST STARTED CLIMBING AT THE AGE OF 12, HOW WERE YOU INTRODUCED TO IT? My mom took me to a climbing gym in my home town of Santa Cruz, California. I was hooked right away and it just very natural to me.

The gym is still there and I have great memories of it, as well as the

YOU GREW UP IN CALIFORNIA AND MOVED TO SPAIN, HOW DOES THE

friendships that I made there.

CLIMBING COMPARE? There really is no comparing the two. There is such a difference.

YOU’VE SET AN IMPRESSIVE NUMBER OF FIRST ASCENTS- HOW DO YOU

Spain has some of the most incredible limestone cliffs in the

FEEL WHEN YOU SET A NEW ROUTE?

world while California has some really great granite walls such as

It is a great feeling for sure. To see a potential route and think to

Yosemite.

yourself “I wonder if this can be climbed?” Sometimes after doing a new route, before my feet touch the ground, I am already thinking

DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE LOCATION FOR CLIMBING?

about the next new route.

My favorite location can be as simple as wherever I am climbing at the moment. I just like being out there, no matter where and

DO YOU LOOK FOR ROUTES NO-ONE HAS CLIMBED?

enjoying what nature has to offer.

I am always looking for the King Lines - the hardest looking, most impossible climbs - to push myself. I am very motivated to do new

CAN YOU TALK US THROUGH THE EMOTIONS YOU FELT WHEN YOU

routes.

COMPLETED LA DURA DURA? I felt great for sure. It was a route that took everything I had inside

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR GREATEST CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENT TO DATE?

to complete, a process of being in great shape, being mentally and

I think being able to climb new routes all over the world is something

physically strong. It took me quite a few tries over a period of time to

that has really been a great achievement for me. Always pushing

learn the sequences, and when it all came together and I was able to

myself and enjoying being in the moment of climbing with friends is

climb from the bottom to clip the chain at the top, it was an amazing

a great feeling.

feeling.

18 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 19

INTERVIEW

BEFORE THIS ROUTE, YOU HAD BEEN OUT OF THE CLIMBING SPOTLIGHT FOR A FEW YEARS - WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN UP TO? Maybe taking a break from being in the media would be a better way to describe it. I was remodelling a house in Spain, travelling, looking for new climbs and just enjoying life really.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST PASSION OUTSIDE OF CLIMBING? I love to garden, cook, travel and visit family. And of course, lately I have been very passionate about building a gym!

INSPIRATIONS? I AM INSPIRED

BY ANYONE WHO IS TRYING. THE GRADE DOES NOT MATTER. AS LONG AS WE ARE TRYING - THAT IS WHAT MATTERS THE MOST TO ME. CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR TRAINING ROUTINE- DO YOU TRAIN SPECIFICALLY FOR A CERTAIN ROUTE? I really do not have any specific training routine. I try to stay in good shape all the time. For me climbing hard is training. I am really looking forward to having my gym to climb in. Who knows, maybe the gym will inspire me to start a training routine. I am psyched to see!

ARE THERE ANY ROUTES YOU’RE AIMING TO COMPLETE IN THE FUTURE? I have many projects on the rocks. If i could only find the time to do them all! There is a great route near Barcelona that I am working on, it’s a really hard route. Then there is this multi-pitch route in another part of Spain that is bolted and has been on my to do list.

WHAT ARE YOUR INSPIRATIONS AND MOTIVATORS? Inspirations? I am inspired by anyone who is trying. The grade does not matter. As long as we are trying - that is what matters the most to me. Being with my friends and pushing ourselves is so fun for me. I am motivated by the desire to see what I can do.

HOW DO YOU MENTALLY PREPARE YOURSELF BEFORE TACKLING A NEW ROUTE? I try to shed any expectations. I just try to find the flow, the balance inside to give my best effort on any route I am climbing. Being in shape, knowing all the moves and being focused all help me to be in the moment, which is necessary to climb a new route.

WHAT DOES CLIMBING MEAN TO YOU? Climbing has been a vehicle that has allowed me to see the world, meet people that I would have not ordinarily have gotten to meet, allowed me to see and experience the life that I have had so far. I am thankful for it.

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HILL CULTURE

Introducing the Mountain Heritage Trust THE ROLE OF THE MOUNTAIN HERITAGE TRUST IS TO ENSURE THAT BRITAIN’S MOUNTAIN HERITAGE IS CONSERVED, DOCUMENTED, MADE ACCESSIBLE AND COMMUNICATED TO A WIDE AUDIENCE.

A few items from the collection including Joe Tasker’s glacier glasses

22 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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ABOUT THE TRUST

near Penrith. MHT provided curatorial support, sourced artefacts

MHT was founded in 2000 with the aim to record and preserve

for new exhibits and set up gallery exhibitions; e.g., a major two

Britain’s rich heritage in the fields of climbing, mountaineering

part exhibition of John Ruskin’s paintings and a unique collection

and mountain culture. Second to none in terms of breadth,

of Abraham photographs reproduced from the original glass plates,

Britain has a proud legacy in the Alps, the Himalaya and the other

with the original camera as part of the exhibit.

great mountain ranges as well as closer to home on British rock.

MHT also led on the creation of the Everest ‘Top of the World

Pioneers in techniques from the earliest days, Britain’s climbers

Exhibition’ at Rheged to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the

and mountaineers have also led the way in preservation and

first ascent of Everest - the only exhibition to celebrate this

conservation of traditions, culture and mountain heritage. The

achievement in the UK and, in 2005, an exhibition to celebrate the

trustees all firmly believe that Mountain Heritage matters for now

fiftieth anniversary of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955.

and for the future.

The Mountain Heritage Trust is the only organisation of its kind

Amongst its officers and trustees are Jeff Ford, Doug Scott, David Lanceley, Jeremy Barlow, John Porter, Dr Charles Clarke, Jerry

in the UK. Among its early successes was the establishment of the

Lovatt and patrons Sir Chris Bonington, John Innerdale and Joe

National Mountaineering Exhibition at Rheged Discovery Centre,

Brown.

MHT PROJECTS AND EXHIBITIONS

Tom Price exhibition

MALLORY CLOTHING REPLICA PROJECT The Mallory replicas challenge the conventional view that Mallory’s clothing and equipment were inadequate for his final 1924 Everest expedition. Based on scientific analysis of textile fragments from the original clothing, recovered on Everest in 1999, the replicas were created to provide a better understanding of the construction of the garments.

ONWARDS AND UPWARDS

Bingley College and many the long-lasting and deep friendships

Funding from the Northern Rock Foundation for a project

he enjoyed as a result. Luckily Tom documented most of his

entitled ‘Onwards and Upwards: The Archive of Ascent’ enabled

life through diaries, essays and articles and in his artwork and

MHT’s former archivist, Maxine Willett, to contact all UK based

it is this which forms the body of our exhibition in sections

climbing clubs to assess exactly what records/artefacts exist,

covering: exploration; climbing; inspiring others; working with

where they are held, the condition they are in and whether

the elements; painting & writing. Tom continued to climb the

there is any existing information on club holdings.

fells of the Lake District all of his life (climbing at Castle Rock

KANGCHENJUNGA: FIVE TREASURES OF THE HIGH SNOW The exhibition at Keswick Museum and Art Gallery is to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of

with Dick Courchee in 2002 and ascending Glaramara at the age of 90, for example) and find new and challenging places to explore; we hope his story will inspire visitors to the exhibition at Keswick Museum and Art Gallery to get out and explore too.

and the first lightweight, oxygen-less ascent in 1979 by Doug

CHORLEY HOPKINSON MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY

Scott, Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker. The exhibition features

The Chorley Hopkinson Mountaineering Library at Allan

many items from both the first ascent and lightweight ascent

Bank, Grasmere is an outstanding collection of climbing and

including clothing worn on the mountain as well as literature,

mountaineering books built up over three generations of the

letters home from the mountaineers and video footage.

Chorley family beginning in the mid-nineteenth century.

Kangchenjunga in May 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown,

INSPIRING ADVENTURE: ANTARCTIC EXPLORER AND LIFETIME ADVENTURER TOM PRICE

CALL FOR DONATIONS

Tom had an extraordinary career: he was a mountaineer; an

If you know of any equipment, documents, papers, film

explorer; a teacher and artist. He was also an extraordinary

or photographs, which contribute to the history of British

character. He was a quiet man but imparted tremendous

Mountains and Mountaineering, then the MHT would like

enthusiasm for adventure and for exploring nature’s great

to hear from you. Contact Nicole Reeve on 01768 840911

‘outdoor classroom’. Many are the students and colleagues he

nicole@mountain-heritage.org

inspired at Workington Grammar, Eskdale Outward Bound and

www.mountainpromag.com

Find out more at www.mountain-heritage.org

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 23

FEATURE Rob Gibson making the 3rd ascent Nick’s ‘Cracking up’ IX 9, Clogwyn Du

24 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

www.mountainpromag.com

HOW

SOON IS NOW?

NICK BULLOCK SHARES A CHAPTER FROM HIS FORTHCOMING BOOK, TIDES.

www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 25

FEATURE

At the foot of Clogwyn du, Wales’ hardest winter climb

There was no snow, only frost thistling the yellowy slabs

T

my foot would break the crust leaving a dark footprint with a

of Rhyolite. Each morning the grass was white and the

white outline. The hills directly accessed from the house were my

black slate wore a frozen cling-film. I stayed on my own

favourite, Elider Fawr, Foel Goch, Y-Garn – sheep shawn mounds, all

in Tim and Lou Neill’s house next to the chapel in the centre of

frozen and crisp. I ran across the worn track at the top of the Devils

Nant Peris. The sun filled the sky and melted the frost and cast

Kitchen. Open space. The buzzard cried in the crackling sky. The

shadowy crosses on the white walls. When my first winter season

Glyder plateau, spikes of rock, hewn standing slabs – on the lee,

in Chamonix was cut short after braking my ankle on Omega, I

moss, but as rough as a terriers coat on the windward side.

he edge had returned to the Welsh hills in February.

returned to Britain feeling sullen having been ripped from the

Every day I ran with the frozen bog beneath my feet. Sometimes

One day I ran and scrambled Tryfans North Ridge. Where it

mountains. On that occasion I stayed with my friend Janet, in her

was possible, I jogged and where it was not I scrambled. Passing

house in Quorn, Leicestershire. I counted the hours and days and

people, they looked aghast when they saw my arm in plaster. I

weeks before I could remove the plaster and return to Europe.

waved and said hello and continued. I climbed direct, the cold

I sat inside Janet’s terrace house in stasis, inert, stuck – the

friction felt clingy and safe. I remembered climbing the same

waves washed over me and suffocated. Time, that most valuable

ground, the same rock and the same features in April, seventeen

commodity was spilling. And now, my winter had been cut even

years before when I trained to be a PE Instructor. I jogged a wide

shorter, but returning to Llanberis felt like coming home. Friends

ledge where in my mind’s eye I could see Mark Bentley, my roomy

that were still in town and not in Scotland or the Alps welcomed

and friend from Bolton, crawl on all fours, brushing sleet with dark

me and I didn’t begrudge being back or even the injury.

damp patches on his knees and the wind snickering at him like a

26 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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magpie. The air around me now was frigid and empty; it caught images and dreams and carried them away over the heather.

Crossing Bwlch Tryfan, I looked to the past. I saw a group of trainee PE Instructors trying to remember how a compass worked.

My toes crunched on the surface of rock covered with moss and grains. I smiled thinking that some things hadn’t changed. On and on and on… panting, chest heaving, deep heaving breaths, the

THE AIR AROUND ME NOW WAS FRIGID AND EMPTY; IT CAUGHT IMAGES AND DREAMS AND CARRIED THEM AWAY OVER THE HEATHER.

streak of dried sweat. Scrambling Bristly Ridge, swinging legs and pulling. Empty air with blank space. My broken wrist ached, but not

only.

much. Then, once again, I was out of the dark and onto the glaring

I stood on the edge of Cwm Cneifion. Skiddin’ feet turned

Glyder tops. The rocks and the hills looked like an over sharpened

sideways. Rocks bounced and whirred and hummocks of grass

photograph and in the shimmering distance, the sea was a dark

broke revealing red. Clogwyn Du, the little black crag at the top of

green sheet. Jet aircraft screamed across the blue leaving white sky

the Glyders. I stopped and stared. A Raven coughed. I could see

scars for the buzzard to sew. Eventually they faded into the future

ghosts of winters past.

and the buzzard disappeared into the distance.

I ran from the summit of Glyder Fach, dodging and balancing

Running the edge of Llyn Idwal, around the well-worn path, the water sucks and filters through rocks rubbed round. I watch Sam

and stubbing boulders, my feet catching edges, stubbing toes,

Sperry, my ex-girlfriend from Leicestershire with Blue, the brindle

‘nnnrrrrgh’… The pain, unlike a broken heart, was for a short time

Staffordshire Bullterrier pulling on the end of his fully stretched

www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 27

FEATURE

lead. I see Sam’s long blond hair wildly blowing in the breeze and her torn jeans with flickering frays and I watch her ‘take me or leave me’ twenty eight year old attitude catch in the breeze and carry across the ancient water.

I jog onto the Ogwen Cottage car park and see a group, including myself, hucked tightly together on tarmac, cooking in the cold, having navigating the Carnedd’s all the way from Drumm to Pen Y Ole Wen on our summer Mountain Leaders Award. I run the roadside by Llyn Ogwen, the water unruffled. Gulls skim the waters clear surface looking down at a version of themselves. Cars speed past. The people inside with heavy right feet and heavy heads,

ROCKS BOUNCED AND WHIRRED AND HUMMOCKS OF GRASS BROKE REVEALING RED. CLOGWYN DU, THE LITTLE BLACK CRAG AT THE TOP OF THE GLYDERS. I STOPPED AND STARED. A RAVEN COUGHED. I COULD SEE GHOSTS OF WINTERS PAST.

rushing to somewhere from somewhere, going nowhere. I could Trainee PE officers on the final day of a three day expedition near Plas y Brenin, North Wales

smell fumes and warm worn oily engines. A silver wheel trim lay in the gutter – a plastic starfish washed up and winking.

Whatever happened to Alison Parker? Alison Parker and I went out for a while when we were both twenty. She had a small upturned nose, short to medium length blond hair, white teeth, taught suntanned skin and a wicked smile, which she wore most of the time. She laughed and she made me laugh and I think for the very short time we were together I loved her very nearly as much as I have loved anyone. She introduced me to Neil Young and Crosby Stills and Nash and Leonard Coen and The Smiths.

The night before this run I had watched Morrissey on the I-player, he looked similar to Tom Briggs the time we first met and climbed together in Australia. And later I watched a u-tube clip of The Smiths on Top of the Pops from 1984. What Difference Does it Make, the song I ribbed Alison Parker about when we first met and stood next to the cooker in the kitchen. I refused to admit I liked it.

The night before, watching the Smiths from so long ago, plunged me into renaissance – swinging my plastered arm and wishing I had a bunch of flowers. ‘Where the hell did it all go?’ It had been twenty three years since Alison Parker had bullied and cajoled until at last I admitted to enjoying the music of The Smiths and then we moved close and kissed for the first time while leaning against the cooker.

Morrissey gently shuffled around the stage with his shirt buttons tested to the limit by a paunch…then, with a bit of a shuffle and

Trainees and trainers on the PE officer course, Lilleshall National Sports Centre, Shropshire

the occasional arm swing, he attempted to be dangerous. But

wonder where Alison Parker is now and if she has children and if

he wasn’t, he was just old. His voice and presence were still

so how many. Does she still have that spark or has life beaten her

electrifying even after all of this time, but how time stops for

to grey?

no-one, not you, me, Morrissey, Alison Parker, Tom Briggs, Mark Bentley, Sam Sperry.

The music of the Smiths takes me back… back to an attitude

I ran the last few metres until I stood at the side of my green Berlingo, parked at the side of the road near Little Tryfan.

Watching Morrissey the night before made me think that for just

of, what difference does it make and panic at the disco but while

the short time you are there, there in your prime, a handsome devil

I always panicked at the disco I never did think, what difference

with hollow cheeks and bendy limbs and strong muscle… just for a

does it make, or at least, not until now, not until I could run no

short time, you may not care about the world, or at least the world

farther and wring every bit from this short life. The Smiths remind

outside your world, and you think there is a light that never goes

me so much of Alison Parker with her vitality and energy and

out.

intelligence, she was care free and dangerous and so much fun. I 28 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

But there is a light and one day it will go out… www.mountainpromag.com

MOUNTAIN RESCUE

MANAGING Emergencies TOM BRALEY OF ABOVE AND BEYOND WITNESSES A TRAINING DAY IN THE LIFE OF NORTHUMBERLAND MOUNTAIN RESCUE.

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his year marks the 50th anniversary of the

and that things can sometimes go wrong,” he told me. “Even the

Northumberland MRT, the volunteer force responsible

most capable of climbers can quickly find themselves out of their

for operations throughout Northumberland and Tyne

depth in the hills, and if they haven’t prepared for that eventuality,

& Wear. This is the largest area covered by any UK

they’re in trouble. The hills don’t care how experienced you are —

mountain rescue team, and their workload continues to rise, as they contend with an increased number of requests for assistance from the emergency services.

What’s more, the fact that 202 squadron’s search and rescue

they’re the ultimate leveler.”

CONDUCTING THE SEARCH First to demonstrate their skills were the four-legged members of

helicopters no longer operate from RAF Boulmer means the team

NNPMRT. Their handler Brian introduced me to rescue dogs Sam

are under more pressure. I joined them on a training exercise to

and Tess before tasking them with finding the casualty hidden

see how they prepare for their role. I also spoke to team leader

high on Kitty’s Crag. Watching them work was fascinating, and

Iain Nixon about what to do in an emergency.

Sam soon located his target. Perhaps surprisingly, Brian and his

OUR DAY BEGINS At 8:00am in a Rothbury car park, the team rendezvous before setting off to the training ground. Today, that was Kitty’s Crag on

navigator, Fiona, didn’t rush to the casualty’s aid. Iain pointed out that when a casualty is located, team members must first make sure the area is safe to approach.

With the accident site secured, the whole team got to work.

the edge of Northumberland National Park. Before setting off, the

Brian relayed their position to the other members below who

team checked my kit and stressed the importance of preparation.

steadily made their way up to join them, carrying their own

One member told me most incidents they attend could be

kit alongside a two-piece Bell Stretcher — a marvelous piece

avoided if people took more time to prepare properly.

of British design, which was quickly assembled on-site for the

“People need to be aware the weather can turn very quickly, 30 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

rescue. www.mountainpromag.com

THE FIND SITE MANAGER However, before the evacuation could begin, Iain explained

GIVING A CHALET REPORT

the importance of managing the accident site. One of the first

A CHALET report makes it easy to remember the information

things the crew do upon arrival is assign a find site manager,

you need to gather before calling 999 or 112 for help. If in

whose role it is to coordinate the rescue.

trouble, write down the following information, and during the

“The Find Site Manager is probably the most important role,” Iain informed me. “It’s critical someone takes charge of

call to the police, request “mountain rescue” and provide your CHALET report.

the situation to make sure everyone stays safe and things run smoothly. It’s their role to oversee the other members of the

Casualties – Provide details about the yourself and the

team and allocate tasks. They need to stand back, keep a log

members of your party, including name, age, contact number,

of events, decide on an evacuation route, and make sure all

and details of any injuries.

the required kit makes it up and down the mountain.”

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’RE IN TROUBLE

Hazards – Give details of any hazards and the prevailing conditions (wind strength, visibility, temperature).

Iain recommend hillgoers do the same as their rescue team in an emergency and nominate someone to take command. The

Access – Give details of ground conditions and terrain, the

biggest threat in an outdoor emergency is the weather, and

route you took and any distinguishing features.

with no one making the key decisions valuable time is lost, leaving you exposed to the elements longer.

“If you have an accident and don’t already have a group leader, someone must take charge,” Iain told me. “That

Location – Give a description of your location. A six-figure grid reference with the two-letter code is ideal. If you’re using a GPS device, then a ten figure grid reference is even better.

someone should be whoever is best qualified for the role.

They need to assess the situation, form a plan to deal with the

Equipment – Give details of the clothing and equipment you

safety of the group — as well any injured walkers — and then

have with you.

decide whether or not the group can get themselves to safety.

“If not, they should gather the information needed to give a CHALET report before trying to call 999 or 112 for help. If

Type of incident – Describe the time and cause of the incident.

they can’t get reception, they then have to decide whether or not to send ideally two people up to higher ground to search for a signal or walk to the nearest habitation to raise the alarm.

“The key thing is for them to plan, coordinate and observe.

They need to think about the situation as a whole, and make sure everyone knows what their role is within it. At this point, communication with the group is key. Whoever’s taken control needs to check on everyone’s wellbeing and ensure the situation isn’t worsening.”

Find out more: http://nnpmrt.org/ www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 31

BOOKS

The north face of Everest from Pang La. Watercolour by Norton.

The Fight for

Everest 1924 IN 1924 MOUNT EVEREST REMAINED UNCLIMBED. TWO BRITISH EXPEDITIONS HAD ALREADY TACKLED THE MOUNTAIN. THE SECOND, IN 1922, REACHED A RECORD HEIGHT OF 27,320 FEET BEFORE RETREATING. TWO YEARS LATER, A TEAM THAT INCLUDED COLONEL E.F. NORTON, GEORGE MALLORY AND ANDREW IRVINE RETURNED TO THE HIMALAYA. IN THIS EXTRACT FROM THE NEW EDITION OF THE FIGHT FOR EVEREST 1924 – THE OFFICIAL EXPEDITION RECORD – BENTLEY BEETHAM SHARES HIS REFLECTIONS ON THE 1924 EXPEDITION AS THE TEAM BEGINS THEIR JOURNEY HOME. 32 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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Members of the 1924 expedition at Base Camp, shortly before leaving Everest. Norton is wearing soft shoes because of frostbite sustained during his summit attempt with Somervell. Mallory and Irvine are conspicuous by their absence. From left to right, back row: Hazard, Hingston, Somervell, Beetham, Shebbeare; front row: Geoff Bruce, Norton, Noel, Odell

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hat night we camped in a grassy basin high up among the hills. Below was a delightful alpine pasture spangled with dwarf primulas of a rich carmine. Already everyone was feeling and looking better. The air was getting softer

– moister. Somervell’s throat and breathing were the most obvious legacies of the Everest blizzards. We were ostensibly going to the Rongshar to recuperate, but it must not be imagined that we were a very decrepit party: far from it! From the experience gained in 1922 we had absolutely escaped frostbitten face or fingers; we were unmaimed. But, for all that, though our bodies did not need what might be termed structural repair, they sorely needed refitting, refurnishing. The last reserves had been used up long

THE LAST RESERVES HAD BEEN USED UP LONG AGO, AND OUR LIMBS WOULD HAVE MOVED A CANNIBAL CHIEF TO TEARS, BUT WE WERE IN EXCELLENT HEALTH AND SPIRITS.

ago, and our limbs would have moved a cannibal chief to tears, but we were in excellent health and spirits.

From a hill some 18,000 feet high just behind the camp there was a wonderful view of Everest and the great valley leading down from it, which we had just left. The viewpoint was far

guise, as we are won’t to think of them; by moonlight we review them afresh, and they then appear perhaps more nearly as they really are, shorn of all convention and preconceived ideas.

Without labouring the point too far – by daylight we view

enough away to allow the foreground, the foothills, to take their

matters in an eminently earthly, worldly aspect; moonlight seems

true perspective, yet close enough to enable us to see every

to bring us face to face with greater and more lasting ideas: it

detail.

lends a touch of the supernatural to our vision. That night and

That night as I lay in my sleeping bag looking out through the

with that scene in front of one, it was quite easy to realise that the

doorway of the tent, I could see the whole of the historic ground,

price of life is death, and that, so long as the payment be made

the scene of the protracted adventure, spread out like a map and

promptly, it matters little to the individual when the payment is

bathed in soft, full moonlight. And what a strange impelling light it

made. Somewhere, up there, in that vast wilderness of ice and

is! Poets and lovers have always extolled it, but even to the most

rock, were two still forms. Yesterday, with all the vigour and will

unromantic there is something in it peculiarly moving, especially

of perfect manhood, they were playing a great game – their life’s

when it is experienced in solitude and in the desolate spaces of

desire. Today, it was over, and they had gone, without their ever

the earth. Never is its spell more potent than in the presence of

knowing the beginnings of decay. Could any man desire a better

great mountains. By day we see things and facts in their normal

end? It seemed not.

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 33

BOOKS

material, is the most dreary and forlorn of human habitations.

The hovels are of the most primitive and insanitary description.

Nevertheless Kyetrak is in its way an important place. Its raison d’être is its position on an old trade route between Tibet and Solah Khombu in Nepal. The pass is still freely used and so this desolate village acts as a market for the exchange of goods passing either way – wool, salt and cloth from Tibet; rice, sugar, grain and sheet copper from Nepal. Hardy traders these, to take their merchandise over an icy pass 19,000 feet high. Some of our porters had their homes in the Khombu Valley and their comely sisters, with fine sisterly spirit, but without invitation, came over the pass to accompany their brothers and help them bear their loads, somewhat to the embarrassment of the rest of the Expedition.

At Kyetrak we were able to buy our first sheep – about four shillings and sixpence apiece. True, they were not fat, but their wool hid some of their angularity, and their owners handled their limbs with pride, and called the sahibs’ attention to parts where flesh might be distinctly felt. Fortunately their interiors were better furnished, and their livers quite out of proportion to the rest of the carcase.

With us on the northern side of the main watershed the weather was still gloriously fine, the tumult of monsoon cloud boiling up from Nepal along the southern edge of the Himalayas only serving to improve the view and emphasise our good fortune.

Mallory, sketched by Norton.

Irvine, sketched by Norton.

TEXT AND IMAGES ©VERTEBRATE PUBLISHING

Next morning we trekked on up and over the gentle Lamna La (17,400 feet), and down the other side – pleasant going all the way. Then across huge mile-wide stone fans, which bygone glacial torrents had deposited in the plain and through which now gushed numerous streams, the dwindling descendants of the parent flood. The camping site at Sichu was provided with a splendid spring of water issuing below a chorten bedecked with a thousand votive prayer-canes. Paul (our interpreter) said that here the offering was for the purpose of seeking a blessing on the spring from the gods and not, as was more usual, to drive away the devils. However, in Tibet the procedure in each case appears to be identical, so I suppose the gods and evil spirits are left to settle the point of ownership between themselves.

On June 18 we came into full view of Cho Rapzang at the head of the Kyetrak Valley, while over on our right lay a beautiful mass of unnamed and wholly unknown mountains, whose slender, shapely summits rose to over 23,000 feet. Many of us planned future climbing holidays here – and elsewhere!

The lateral moraines in the lower valleys hereabouts were the largest any of us had ever seen. They were estimated to be at least a thousand feet high and extended for miles, like great snakes writhing across the land. When moraines, especially terminal

The new and updated edition of The Fight for Everest 1924 is

ones, become grass-grown they often form a pleasant feature in

available from Vertebrate Publishing here:

the landscape, as in so many of our English Lakeland dales, but

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in their original nakedness they are perhaps the ugliest thing

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in nature. Surrounded as it is by these great featureless heaps

UK mainland postage.

of whitish-grey stones, the village of Kyetrak, built of the same 34 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

www.mountainpromag.com

FEATURE

PILGRIM’S progress ALEX RODDIE CHARTS A CENTURY OF DEVELOPMENT IN THE TOOLS WE TAKE FOR GRANTED.

36 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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T

ake a look in your rucksack. If you’re a winter climber, you’ll find a pair of crampons in there, and two ice axes with bendy shafts and ergonomic grips.

Combined with protective gear, these items form

part of an elaborate system designed to make modern winter climbing possible. But it wasn’t always like this.

A century ago, people were climbing ice and mixed routes all over the UK and the Alps. Standards were not as high as they are today, but many of these climbers were operating at the cutting edge of their age. How did they do it? What was it like?

And can we learn anything from the equipment and techniques of the past?

NAILED BOOTS Crampons have been around since the earliest days of mountaineering, but their popularity declined in the 19th century and did not recover for over a hundred years. Winter climbing first emerged as a distinct activity in the 1880s and 1890s – and during that period almost all climbers wore nailed boots without crampons.

You may have seen a pair of nailed boots hanging from the ceiling in a mountain pub, but few climbers still active today will have actually climbed in them. They evolved from the older hobnailed boots that had been used for thousands of years by anyone who needed a little more security on steep or uncertain ground.

Over the years, two main types of climbing-specific boot nails developed from the humble hobnail. Clinker nails had a square profile that provided decent grip on rock and snow.

The cobbler would hammer the sharp tine directly through the edge of the leather sole, then bend it back on itself; another flap of metal, integral to the nail, protected the end of the tine. This system was highly durable but it was impossible to replace nails once they had worn out. The Tricouni, a 20th century innovation, aimed to solve that problem. With a hardened, serrated edge and two individual staples to fix each nail in place, they were more durable than clinkers and greatly increased security on small or icy holds.

As for nailing patterns, the Badminton Library: Mountaineering (C.T. Dent et al, 1892) made this recommendation: “… with a row round the edge a climber can go anywhere in perfect safety, but it is better to add others shown in the drawing. The heel of the boot should be similarly garnished, a row of nails (often omitted) extending across the front part.”

Photo: Christopher Sleight

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 37

FEATURE

In 1963, Gaston Rebuffat’s On Snow and Rock hammered the

Alex on Ben Lui, Victorian style! Photo: James Roddie

final nail in the coffin, so to speak: “Nailing has been abandoned to good purpose in favour of Vibram soles … On rock their hold is incontestable; on snow, they hold as well as Tricounis; on ice, Tricounis are preferable, but, if the ice is really hard it is in any case necessary to put on crampons.”

Both types of nail damaged the rock, in much the same way that crampons can cause damage when climbing in thin conditions. The difference is that nails were used summer and winter – and as the popularity of climbing increased, so did the erosion.

Eventually, nailed boots were supplanted by better technology. They were versatile in their day, but the combination of Vibram soles and crampons put an end to the era of the nailed boot.

THE LONG ICE AXE When faced with hard snow or ice, nailed boots alone were almost useless. The climber needed some way of cutting steps.

The ice axe evolved from the traveller’s alpenstock in the early 19th century. Early variants were up to five feet long, with a combined pick and hatchet blade at one end and a spike at the other. A separate short hatchet was sometimes used for climbing the steepest slopes. In the 1860s, Edward Whymper turned the axe blade 90 degrees to form an adze, and the modern ice axe was born. The new design made cutting steps downhill far more practical and this increased the safety margin for early alpinists; before this innovation, it was often necessary to descend a mountain by the same route it had been climbed. Axes gradually became shorter too, a trend that continued for many decades.

I asked John Burns, a climber and mountain historian who has been active for many years, for his views on long ice axes.

Busy in the workshop

“A friend of mine carries an 85cm ice axe. Once we came across a party who were trapped on a Scottish peak in a blizzard.

They had no crampons, and they’d climbed up an ice slope before falling when attempting to descend. The only solution was to cut steps down several hundred feet of ice – made much easier by my friend’s enormous axe.”

However, he adds: “Mountaineering is considerably safer now due to advances in equipment. Everything is much lighter, enabling climbers to move faster and reduce risk.”

Cutting steps is a precise art. The climbing manuals of the past include whole chapters on the technique, and there are more ways of cutting steps than you might think – uphill, downhill, across the slope, with the pick, or with the adze – each requiring different skills that had to be practised.

It worked well enough for general mountaineering, but the traditional axe was not the best tool for the steepest climbs. In 1904, Harold Raeburn made the first ascent of Green Gully (IV,3) on Ben Nevis. He was up against the limits of what was possible with his equipment: 38 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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Alex’s completed nailed boot

THE ART OF SUFFERING FOR LONG PERIODS IN EXTREME CONDITIONS IS NOW RESTRICTED TO HIMALAYAN WINTER CLIMBING. “To hang on with one hand, while that long two-handed weapon, the modern ice axe, is wielded in the other, is calculated to produce severe cramps in course of time … I suggest for climbs such as this our going back to … the light tomahawk-like hatchet stuck in the belt when not in use.”

In the late 1960s, the ice axe evolved a curved pick. When coupled with twelve-point crampons, this enabled the frontpointing technique, allowing ice to be climbed directly, without the need to cut steps. The old methods were consigned to the history books and climbing standards improved rapidly.

PUTTING THE THEORY INTO PRACTICE There’s only so much you can learn from theory. I wanted to try it for myself, so I put together my very own Victorian mountaineering kit.

Sourcing Tricounis proved difficult. After finding an unused set on Ebay I fitted them to a pair of traditional leather boots with the aid of a hammer and cobbler’s last. The ice axe required a bit more DIY; I rescued the pick from a rotting 1930s Aschenbrenner and made the shaft myself from seasoned hickory. A traditional tweed jacket, puttees and Dachstein mitts completed the picture. I was all set for some historical re-enactment in the Scottish mountains.

My friend Isi Oakley, an outdoor instructor, accompanied me on a summer ascent of Pinnacle Ridge (Mod), Garbh Bheinn. Although Alex’s victorian gear

an easy route, I found it far more challenging than expected. In Isi’s words: “It was very educational and made me realise just what climbing grades originally meant – Difficult really meant it! Nailed boots on slabby gneiss led to Bambi-on-ice moments, and Alex often sought out the ‘winter line’ (grass and turf, rather than rock).”

This highlights an important point – the pioneers often had to cope with far dirtier and more vegetated rock than we usually find today, and nailed boots can be useful on this terrain. But I struggled on smooth rock, and it’s easy to see why most climbers switched to Vibram soles when they became available.

Winter climbing was completely different. I found the combination of nailed boots and long axe surprisingly effective for routes such as Dorsal Arête (II), Central Gully (I/II, Bidean nam Bian) and Wandering Wombat (I/II, Stob Coire nan Lochan). These climbs are trivial by modern standards but were perfect for practising the old step-cutting techniques, and I even found that bludgeoning through a cornice was much easier with a long axe.

The tweed jacket wasn’t bad, either – as good as modern softshell

Delciate slab climbing on Pinnacle Ridge. Photo Isi Oakley

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below freezing, but soggy and uncomfortable in the rain.

I spoke to John Porter, author of One Day as a Tiger: Alex JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 39

FEATURE

I WONDER IF WE ARE NOT AS HARD AS THOSE A CENTURY AGO. WE HAVE OUR MODERN COMFORTS AND USE THEM – I WONDER IF WE COULD HACK IT WITHOUT!

Photo: Christopher Sleight

MacIntyre and the birth of fast and light alpinism and an expert in climbing history. He had some insights on how things have changed, and helped me to understand the bigger picture. It’s about far more than just nailed boots or crampons, long axe or short.

“Long axes are still an advantage on non-technical terrain and Grade I-II winter routes, but the art of suffering for long periods in extreme conditions is now restricted to Himalayan winter climbing. From a time when climbing ice was terrifying, terrifying routes can now be climbed in relative comfort due to the improvements. Cutting steps, frozen feet and placing corkscrew ice wires while balancing on insecure ten-point crampons now seem stupid but it is how routes like Point Five Gully (V,5) and Zero Gully (V,4) were first climbed.”

Safety, comfort, and standards have all improved. But have we lost anything? John Porter said ‘climbing is much more a sport than a way of life these days – not a criticism, just evolution through technical improvement.’ And Isi, despite being sceptical of my nailed boots, said ‘step-cutting is a bit of an art.’ I also

FELLOW EXPERIMENTERS

wonder if most of us who climb are not as hard as those a century

I’m not the only one to have tried out what it’s like to climb

ago. We have our modern comforts and use them – I wonder if we

with the equipment of the late 19th or early 20th century.

could hack it without!’

In July 2015, Hugo and Ross Turner set out to climb Mt

My own experiment made me realise that climbing ability isn’t

Elbrus (5,642m). One of the twins wore modern kit, while

about gear. Nowadays most of us use equipment designed for

the other wore a replica of the suit George Mallory wore on

higher grades than we can climb. It’s possible to climb easier

Everest in 1924: leather boots, tweed, wool, and Gabardine.

routes with extremely basic gear, given the right skills, and I don’t

For a report on how the climb went and how the equipment

think it’s too much of a stretch to say that gear manufacturers

performed, see http://bit.ly/1OuBvks. In 2006, Graham

could learn from the equipment of the past. Is there still a market

Hoyland climbed on Everest with a similar set of replica

for a long cornice-busting ice axe, or footwear inspired by nailed

equipment and concluded that the gear was sufficient

boots for slimy or verglassed mixed climbing? New innovations

even above 8,000m – but only as long as the climber kept

come all the time, but the game of climbing remains the same: get

moving.

to the top, get down safely, and have some fun along the way.

40 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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Introducing Nikwax Down Wash Direct

#mywaterproof Berghaus Waterproof Jacket Competition

Berghaus athletes Mick Fowler, Anniken Binz, Steve Birkinshaw and Dougal Tavener tell us about their adventures with their waterproof.

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 41

LAND MANAGEMENT

Notes from the Fairy Mountain: Winter

WINTER AT SCHIEHALLION IS BEAUTIFUL, FINGER NUMBING AND EXHILARATING. LIZ AUTY MANAGES THE JOHN MUIR TRUST LAND ON AND AROUND THIS ICONIC MOUNTAIN.

O

ur first snow came in November when stonechats were

lekking through the winter to keep or establish their place on the lek

still here braving icy showers. The autumn was very warm

ready for the breeding season on April.

and many birds stayed later than in some years, with, for example, sightings of hen harriers well into autumn.

It doesn’t go completely quiet when the birds migrate and the

Other animals are still here but can become harder to spot. The ptarmigan and mountain hare turn white in the winter and are extremely well adapted to the harsh conditions. The deer find

bats hibernate. The squirrels are still active in winter but do spend

shelter where they can. We can see high calf mortality if the winter

more time in their dreys having been really busy and visible in the

is particularly harsh.

autumn collecting and storing nuts and seeds and lining their nests

One of the enjoyable things about winter is that it’s a great

with moss. The Black Grouse don’t mind the snow and will carry on

time for tracking in the snow to see what mammals are about. I

42 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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Grouse prints Liz and Wynn

THIS YEAR, HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDED AN AMAZING EARLY MORNING GROUSE WATCH IN APRIL, A FANTASTIC DAY WITH PATIENTS AND FAMILIES FROM THE SCHIEHALLION WARD AT YORKHILL HOSPITAL IN MAY, AND SEED COLLECTING IN GLORIOUS AUTUMN WEATHER. This time of year is quite unpredictable so it can be difficult to plan activities and there are usually some weeks when access is problematic due to snow. I was able to put a trail camera up over the winter last year at about 500m and taking shots ever few minutes gave a real sense of the changing weather patterns and how much am hoping to do some detective work to find out more about the activities of some of the animals I have spotted on the trail camera

of the time the cloud was down.

It’s also a time for reflection on the past year for the wildlife and

recently - pine marten and badger. I had a fantastic opportunity to

for me. This year highlights included an amazing early morning

go to Norway last May through ArchNetwork’s Nature exchange and

grouse watch in April, a fantastic day with patients and families from

we heard about how lynx surveys are carried out over the winter

the Schiehallion ward at Yorkhill hospital in May, and seed collecting

when their tracks are visible in the snow. Who knows - perhaps our

in glorious autumn weather. What has not gone so well includes

tracking might turn up the tracks of our own elusive Scottish wildcat

the big winter browsing impacts on small tree seedlings, failure for

which some say is still around in Perthshire.

a merlin nest, and a no show from the black grouse at an autumn

Over the winter we will also be working on building and fixing brash hedges. A brash hedge is a fence made from fallen trees,

event I organised. A reminder that nature will follow its own course.

And as I reflect on ‘the death of the old year’, in the words of

which protects an area from browsing by deer and at the same

Tennyson’s poem my hope is that the new year will come in ‘blithe

time provides a valuable habitat for birds. In a small plantation we

and bold’ as once again thoughts turn to spring with its new life,

have at Schiehallion we are using them as an experiment to look

challenges and opportunities and of plans for future conservation

at regeneration potential, as currently there is no shrub layer in the

work parties, footpath repairs and working in partnership with our

woodland.

neighbours at Dun Coillich to implement our new woodland plan.

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 43

FEATURE

44 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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Hunting the

Hunters RUDOLF ABRAHAM JOINS A SMALL VOLUNTEERING PROJECT MONITORING LYNX, WOLF AND BEAR POPULATIONS IN THE WINTER SNOWS OF VEĽKÁ FATRA NATIONAL PARK.

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 45

FEATURE

A

few years ago, Miloš Majda, a ranger from Slovakia’s Malá Fatra National Park, undertook a project to raise two lynx cubs, with the aim of introducing them into the national park. The sibling cubs grew, at the home of Majda and

his wife, and were gradually released for short periods into the surrounding forests in preparation for setting them free for good.

Shortly before this was due to happen, one of them escaped and didn’t return. So begins the story of monitoring lynx and other large carnivores in Veľká Fatra, a national park just south of Malá Fatra, deep in the Carpathians.

The train glides east from Bratislava, travelling alongside the River Váh, the landscape covered with an increasingly heavy blanket of snow. Castles spring up on every crag, low, rounded hills press closer from the north, and birds of prey swoop down over frozen fields.

I have joined a one-week volunteering project run by Biosphere Expeditions, an international, non-profit wildlife volunteer organisation, which involves monitoring three large and elusive European carnivores – the Eurasian lynx, grey wolf and brown bear – as well as wild cat, wild boar, red and roe deer and other prey species.

The expedition is based in Ľubochňa, a small village on the edge of Veľká Fatra national park, from where the forested slopes of the study area stretch south. The Veľká Fatra range is a huge tract of largely unspoilt wilderness with extensive areas of well-preserved Carpathian forest, and ridge-top cattle pastures dating back to the 15th century. Almost twice the size of Malá Fatra to the north, it covers an area of over 400km2, and was declared a national park in 2002 – one of nine in Slovakia – having already been listed as a Protected Landscape Area for 30 years. Though less well-known than the Tatras mountains, it is easily accessible, and makes a great area

An area recently dug out by a bear

46 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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CASTLES SPRING UP ON EVERY CRAG, LOW ROUNDED HILLS PRESS CLOSER FROM THE NORTH, AND BIRDS OF PREY SWOOP DOWN OVER FROZEN FIELDS. both for hiking and for watching wildlife.

The train pulls into Vrútky, from where we drive to Ľubochňa, where members of the expedition team are staying in an old hunting lodge, and briefing takes place surrounded by an assortment of maps, GPS units and diagrams of animal tracks. As you might expect on a conservation project such as this, it’s a fairly eclectic, international team with diverse backgrounds, some members having been on conservation trips before, some not, but all of them in search of a different ‘holiday’ experience, something where they felt they were giving something back.

As well as ascertaining the total population of lynx, wolves and bears in the study area, and learning more about the dynamics, movements and activities of these iconic species, the expedition aims to increase our knowledge of the numbers of prey species within the area, and to assess the impact of large predators on these prey populations.

Before the Biosphere Expeditions program was launched, comparatively little research had been done on these species in Slovakia, so the data collected is making a valuable contribution to our understanding of these animals, and their place in local ecosystems. For example, the impact of predators such as wolves on prey species – in particular game stocks, and sheep and other livestock – is often cited by hunters and sheep farmers as an argument for culling. Obviously the Biosphere Expeditions program with its placement of volunteers on the ground also allows a far larger area to be surveyed, and a greater amount of data to be collected – in the three weeks around the time of my visit, over 330km of trails were covered.

After a morning’s training at the hunting lodge in the use of GPS and other equipment, data recording and learning how to identify different animal tracks, we drive down the valley into the national park, to put some of this knowledge into practice, surrounded by deep snow and icicles. The team (consisting, on my visit, of seven members – the maximum team size is twelve, plus expedition leader and one or two scientists), is split into small groups, each with a specific area to cover, and record any evidence of the species being monitored – in the form of tracks, scratch marks etc. Then we don snowshoes and set off up a broad forest track, with increasingly open views of the surrounding wintry landscape as we climb higher. In the evening, after returning to the hunting lodge, we shuffle down a slippery path for dinner at a cosy little restaurant in the village.

The next morning we set off wrapped in down jackets and wearing Lynx tracks

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snowshoes again, the deep late January snow crunching underfoot, in the company of expedition scientist, photographer and filmmaker JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 47

FEATURE

years later, the first expedition took place – a project to study wolves

THE DATA COLLECTED IS MAKING A VALUABLE CONTRIBUTION TO OUR UNDERSTANDING OF THESE ANIMALS, AND THEIR PLACE IN LOCAL ECOSYSTEMS.

in the Carpathian mountains in Poland, which was later instrumental in establishing a wolf hunting ban there. The Biosphere Expeditions project in Slovakia has now been running for several years, and continues to be popular.

At the end of my stay in Veľká Fatra, I take the train back to Bratislava, returning through that landscape of snow and castles. I found Biosphere’s one-week volunteering project in the Slovakian Carpathians to be a rewarding and memorable experience.

Tomáš Hulík. Hulík made a documentary on the story of Majda and his lynx cubs, and has been involved with the Biosphere Expeditions project here in Veľká Fatra from the start. Another team member sets off for a different area with Majda.

The sky is beautifully clear and blue, but the temperature actually measures a biting -20ºC. Almost immediately, we discover the tracks of a brown bear. Bears should of course be hibernating in late January, but this one obviously isn’t, for reasons unclear. Its tracks are measured and photographed – from the tracks, it appears to be a young adult – then we move on, following the left bank of a small, mostly frozen stream, trudging over deep snow.

To Hulík’s surprise – the discovery of so much bear activity is highly

Photo: Tomáš Hulík

unusual – we soon cross another set of bear tracks, almost certainly from the same individual.

Gradually we hike deeper into the forest, following a frozen 4WD

FIND OUT MORE

track through the trees. In the afternoon, shortly before we are due to turn back, we discover a large area dug out by a bear beside the 4WD

Biosphere Expeditions’ Slovakia project runs for 7 days in

track, its powerful claw marks still clearly visible in the hard packed

February and costs £1290 including accommodation, meals

snow and frozen earth. The tracks disappear down the hillside in the

and ground travel in Slovakia, excluding flights

direction of the stream where we encountered the first set of tracks,

(www.biosphere-expeditions.org).

but there are no sign of return tracks, yet.

We move on along the 4WD track, then following Hulík we cut

Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies direct from the UK to

down through the trees to check a camera trap, which we soon find

the Slovak capital Bratislava, the assembly point for the

strapped onto a tree trunk. We open the camera to check for images,

expedition, from where there are direct trains to Vrútky, near

replace the memory card with a new one and close the case up again.

the expedition base.

The light is beginning to fade with the approach of dusk, the snow turning a familiar blue in the evening light. We meet with another

If you’re spending time in the lovely Slovak capital before or

group from the expedition team further down towards the valley

after the expedition – and you really should, it’s a beautiful

floor, and strike up a side trail – there’s some excited talk of someone

city – good places to stay include the Mercure Centrum

having maybe discovered our first lynx tracks here, and Hulík

(www.mercure.com) which is very close to the railway

confirms this.

station, and Loft (www.lofthotel.sk). Prašná Bašta

By the end of the day, along with the other two groups making

(www.prasnabasta.sk), housed in a 16th century tower, is

up this expedition team, we had recorded the tracks of bear, wolf,

a good place to try traditional Slovak dishes, and Wolker

lynx, wildcat and several other species. More wolf and lynx tracks

(www.wolker.sk) serves up tasty, unpretentious Slovak

were found over the following days, indicating the presence of a

favourites and good Slovak beer.

five-member wolf pack in the area (forestry reports had previously concluded there were currently no wolf packs here), a female and

Tomáš Hulík (www.tomashulik.com) has made a 50-minute

juvenile lynx travelling together, and a lone male lynx. Could one of

English-language documentary on the story of Miloš Majda

these be one of the individuals introduced into the national park?

and his lynx cubs, Návrat rysov (see http://bit.ly/1T3r8rI).

Then we make our way back to the hunting lodge, to go through the day’s data, before heading into the village for dinner again.

Biosphere Expeditions was founded in 1999 by Matthias Hammer

Bradt publish an excellent guidebook to the wildlife of Eastern Europe (www.bradtguides.com).

- one of those ideas that was born in the shower, as he puts it. Two 48 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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GEAR GUIDE

40L Mountain Packs for him LARGE MOUNTAIN PACKS ARE THE WORKHORSE LOAD CARRIERS FOR THOSE GUIDING IN THE MOUNTAINS. TOM HUTTON AND LUCY WALLACE TEST DRIVE THE BEST OF THE BUNCH. OSPREY MUTANT 38, £100 .com

For me, it’s the strip-ability – read versatility – of the Mutant that really makes it shine.

The quoted volume of 38L seems quite tight, but it’s actually quite a big pack, and the fully-floating lid makes it possible to really stack it to the gunnels if required. It’s quite a ta n www.mou light pack in its full form, but if you start trimming the lid, hip fins etc, it drops to way below the 1kg mark. It’s well featured though, with useful tool attachments, good ski straps, and efficient compression straps. And the ‘Flapjacket’ cover does an excellent job of sealing the main compartment if you do run it without the lid, and this even has a little zip pocket in it – useful if like me, you rely on lid pockets for storage. I found it a good carry – the shoulder straps are super breathable, comfortably shaped and wide enough to take a decent load; and the back system is simple but effective. I would definitely use this for winter climbing, ski-touring, big rock routes and mountain walks. It would also function well as a working pack for MLs, MIAs etc. Weight: 1280g ■ www.ospreyeurope.com in pr om ag

BEST BUY

BLACK DIAMOND SPEED 40, £130 There’s little doubting the aim of the Speed pack – this is an alpine climbing pack through and through, but that said, many of the features will carry over to British winter and rock, as well as scrambling and even hill walking, if you’re looking for one pack to do all things. It starts light enough but is then incredibly strip-able, with removable hip belt and lid, which would make it good for easier summer walking or scrambling or for summit pushes or technical pitches when climbing. The snow gaiter and rope strap protect it well when the lid is off, and the straps can be removed altogether which does keep it neat. It carries really well – due mostly to the innovative reActive suspension straps, which really do make the load feel more stable on technical ground. The back system is basic but comfortable. The compression straps do a good job of keeping it all stable, and the tool attachments work well enough with axes and cope with poles. No ski straps though, so these need to be carried in the compression straps. Quite small for a typical working inventory. Weight: 1290g.

■ eu.blackdiamondequipment.com 50 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

BERGHAUS EXPLORER 40 RUCKSACK, £100 The Explorer is a very similar pack in use to the Vaude. It has a great adjustable back length, courtesy of Berghaus’s excellent Biofit system, and once the back length is right, the rest of the pack feels great – even when full.

The shoulder straps are well padded and a good shape, and the nonremovable hip fins feel good too (and contain two useful zip-access pockets).

The channelled back system is less breathable than the Vaude but does feel more stable. The main compartment is split – again useful if you want to separate your kit, but not something I feel is needed on packs of this size. The divider can be opened though and the external access to the bottom of the pack is useful. The compression straps do a perfect job of cinching things down, it has two pretty basic tool loops and the fixed lid has two good-sized pockets. Again, the lack of strip-ability makes this less of a climbing/ski touring pack but it is a seriously good pack for mountain walking – summer or winter – and would definitely work for scrambling. Weight: 1300g ■ www.berghaus.com www.mountainpromag.com

GEAR GUIDE

VAUDE BRENTA 40, £95 The big story with the Brenta is the unique F.L.A.S.H adjustable shoulder system that allows you to tailor the pack size to your back length – this would really suit folk who struggle to get packs to fit properly. This combined with really good hip fins (not removable), and a very breathable concave mesh back system make it a great pack to carry, even when fully loaded. That said, I always feel the weight is a little too far away from me, with this type of back system – the price you pay for a good airflow. It has a fixed lid with two good pockets, including a mesh inner one that makes it easy to check the contents before you go delving in. And it also has useful pockets on the hip fins. The main compartment is split with a removable divider – Personally I’m never sure this is necessary but some people like it; and it does provide zip entry to the bottom of the pack, which can be useful at times. The lack of strip-ability, makes the Brenta a better walking, winter mountaineering or scrambling pack than a full-on climbing pack. But it would certainly work well for ML work, and is well built so should last. Weight: 1290g ■ www.vaude.co.uk

LOWE ALPINE MOUNTAIN ATTACK 45:55, £110 The Mountain Attack is the largest of the Men’s selection, large enough to use even as a backpacking pack, so super versatile. It’s also pretty tough and well-featured. It’s a true all-rounder: as capable mountaineering, ski touring or climbing as it is as a large walking (or working) pack. It’s a comfortable and very stable pack to carry – even fully loaded. The hip fins just fit right (but are removable when needed), the shoulder straps are well-padded, though not as breathable as some, and channelled back system is spot-on – breathable as well as comfortable. It has two good-sized pockets in the lid, which is fully-floating and removable, and a split main compartment, with a zipped divider if you don’t want it. The bottom of the pack is also accessible via small side zips, which saves emptying everything! I love the headlock tool attachments – so easy to use and reliable – and the ski straps are wide enough to take pretty much the widest skis. The single, mitten friendly buckle on the main compartment is a nice touch too. All in, a brilliant pack that I can see being perfect for those that need real space.

Also available in a 35:45 version. Weight: 1620g.

■ www.lowealpine.com

MILLET PROLIGHTER 38+10, £125 One of the smaller packs in the men’s selection and a real thoroughbred Alpine climbing pack that will crossover for UK climbing – summer or winter – or even working on the hill with clients if you’re small or tend to use pretty lightweight kit. It’s a lot more pared down than the Deuter, with more basic tool attachments, narrower ski straps and less padding on the hip belt and shoulder straps. This gets the weight down – as always, it’s a compromise between features, comfort and weight.

The lid is fully floating, so easily removed; and this leaves the main compartment well protected by a good snow skirt and a single strap that clamps it right down. The hip fins come off with little effort too, leaving a simple webbing belt that won’t interfere with a harness. Twin compression straps on each side make it easy to cinch everything right down. It’s a nice carry, slim, with well-contoured straps and comfortable yet simple channelled back system. If your focus is more climbing than walking, and you’re keen to keep the weight down, this is a great pack. May be a bit tight on space for some. Weight: 1295g ■ www.millet-mountain.com

DEUTER GUIDE 45+, £135

pr om ag.c om

The Guide 45+ is the archetypal mountain guide’s pack – tough, functional, comfortable, the perfect size for most big mountain adventures and it seriously looks the part too. The lid is height-adjustable, rather than fully floating – less messy most of the time, but obviously can’t be removed for that easy summer day, when you’re not carry much, or the big push for the summit (the hip belt can be removed though – useful with a harness). The compression straps are superb – even strapping right across the pack to keep it tight when really empty. It’s a great carry: the straps are well-padded and well-shaped and the Variflex back system is a good compromise between breathability EDITOR’S and pack stability. It’s seriously well-built, so will cope with all kinds of rocks, scrapes or CHOICE perhaps even errant tools. But it does pay for this a little with weight and it’s the in heaviest of the men’s selection. If you’re looking for a one pack fits all, walking, working, nta www.mou climbing, even bivvying/lightweight backpacking pack that will give you years of service, this is the one to go for. Weight: 1885g. ■ www.deutergb.co.uk

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JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 51

GEAR GUIDE

EDITOR’S CHOICE

pr om ag.c om

BEST BUY

in pr om ag

LOWE ALPINE MOUNTAIN ATTACK ND 35:45, £100

.com

40L Mountain Packs for her It’s tough, not too heavy and not at all complicated, but does ta www.moun exactly what a mountaineering pack needs to do. The main in nta www.mou compartment is very roomy, despite being advertised as a starting volume of 35 litres - its big enough for a couple of nights out if traveling light, and will take all the climbing gear I can throw at it. Externally there are side compression straps, ski straps, an ice axe carry system and a side entry zip. The metal buckles are glove and snow friendly - no danger of them clogging with ice.

There is a floating lid and removable hip belt (with gear loops). The big winner for me is the stability and comfort of the AdaptiveFit harness, which moves brilliantly with the body. The rucksack can feel a bit broad in the beam but has a streamlined fuss-free shape, with the load carried close to the centre of gravity. For me a mountain pack should have as little on the outside as possible to avoid snags or flapping in the wind and this is just the ticket. It wins Ed’s Choice because I love its bombproof simplicity coupled with superb comfort. It wins Best Buy for delivering all these at a competitive price. Weight 1.46kg. ■ www. lowealpine.com

DEUTER GUIDE 40+ SL, £130

VAUDE WOMEN’S SIMONY 36+8, £120

Reliably solid, but weighty at 1850g, this is a tough, stable pack for carrying heavy loads and ideally suited to winter use. There’s plenty of padding and support around the harness, which is nicely contoured to fit a small frame. The chunky Vari Flex hip belt is well shaped, and does have a couple of gear loops on it but is also removable for technical climbing. The reinforced bottom is tough and abrasion resistant and there are side and bottom zips for access. Externally there are straps for carrying skis, side compression straps, ice axe carrying system and tabs for attaching an optional extra - a helmet holder. Inside is a pouch for a hydration system and a zipped divider for two compartments - not something I generally use. The top zip in the floating lid is in the middle of the pocket, which helps to prevent the contents from falling out. The lid is removable, so it can be stripped down to save weight, but it is still quite a hefty package. It works though if you want something durable, this pack is built to last. ■ www.deutergb.co.uk

Designed for year round mountaineering, the women’s specific Simony has winter friendly features including ice axe carry system, ski holsters, and an external crampon pouch. Other storage options include a low profile map pocket on one side, with an access zip to the main compartment on the opposite side, and handy mesh compartment inside the lid pocket. It’s fairly light at 1380g and spacious enough for a winter outing whether on skis, walking or climbing. Some of the buckles and toggles are a bit on the small side for handling with gloves. The back length can be adjusted via two clever pull cords. It takes a bit of fiddling to get right (I prefer the Osprey system) but full marks to Vaude for including it. I admit that I’ve struggled to get a good fit with this pack though - the shoulder straps are wide and quite stiff, and the hip belt won’t sit flat where I want it to. Other body shapes may find it more agreeable - broader shoulders and narrower hips would work. It’s a good technical all-rounder, but I can’t get comfy with it. ■ www.vaude.com

OSPREY TEMPEST 40, £100 If comfort and low weight are your primary concerns, take a good look at the women’s specific Tempest 40, which excels at both. At around 1.0kg, the pack will add very little to your load, and the carry is steady and body hugging. It’s really simple to adjust the torso length, using a big slab of hook and loop fabric that holds it securely once fixed. The straps and hip belt are stable without being bulky, with cut away foam, and wrap the body securely. The Airscape back panel holds the load close but provides venting in warm weather. It’s roomy at 40 litres, and the floating lid creates more space, plus it’s easy to access stuff at the bottom of the pack via the bottom zip. There are lots of external features: mesh side pockets plus a big one on the front, as well as side compression straps, mesh pockets on the hip belt and straps for securing a roll mat. When these extras aren’t in use, the shape is streamlined enough for mountaineering. However, the weight saving trade off is that its not as tough as climbing specific packs so I’m not sure that it will appreciate being rammed with metal hardware or dragged over rock! That said, it’s an excellent choice for winter walking, and big enough to take gear for a lightweight bivy or hut-to-hut trip.

■ www.ospreyeurope.co.uk 52 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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GEAR GUIDE

Gaiters DOES YOUR WINTER INVOLVE DEEP SNOW AND BOGGY STREAMS? LUCY WALLACE IS A FAN OF KEEPING DRY AND COMFORTABLE IN A PAIR OF GAITERS.

BERGHAUS EXPEDITOR GAITER, £35 np rom ag.com

The design is really well thought out, with some good technical features and a slim line shape suited to mountain use. First up however, it’s worth pointing out that the stretch panel at the back of the calf (which BEST BUY allows a really good, snug fit) isn’t waterproof. It sheds dry snow pretty well, but if you splash through i ta www.moun watercourses, be sure to create a nice bow wave as you go! I actually quite like this feature in an all-round gaiter as I find I can get hot in them in the summer, and this panel dramatically increases breathability whilst still keeping mud and general crud out. Heavy-duty nylon reinforces the boot cuff to protect from abrasion and crampons. The closure is hook and loop, easy to get on and off and no problems with it getting clogged up. The press-stud popper is offset to avoid bruising the shins. The strap underneath is brilliant, held in place with an internal hook and loop fastener, again, very easy to adjust and no need to trim. The outer profile is smooth and uncluttered; you’d have to work hard to catch a crampon. These are a really good buy, whether you are on a budget or not - a gaiter for year round use, from breaking trail in winter, to bashing through heather in summer.

■ www.berghaus.com

Made from reinforced Nikwax Analogy fabric, although not technically waterproof, these gaiters are pretty good at keeping out rain, snow and mud under any conditions. The plus side to the lack of waterproof membrane is that they are very breathable, and quickly dump moisture outwards, which is great, especially if like me, you spend a lot of time walking on rough boggy ground in summer. I like to wear something that will keep ticks and mud out, but I can overheat in traditional gaiters. The fit is quite loose, with an elastic boot cuff and a gathered section at about boot height. This makes them bulky, something to bear in mind if you plan on wearing crampons. The underfoot strap is secured with double back buckles that stick out at the sides, which isn’t great for crampons either. The closure is a top down fastening, chunky zip with poppered storm flap. I’ve found that gaiter zips can freeze up and cake with ice (I’ve had to thaw out a pair of gaiters on a stove to put them on again after a night in a snow hole), and the five poppers add extra punishment for any illegitimate knee use on scrambles and climbs! For these reasons these gaiters are more suited to three season walking than technical mountaineering and winter use.

■ www.paramo-clothing.com www.mountainpromag.com

OUTDOOR RESEARCH EXPEDITION CROCODILES, £55 Apart from having the best name in the business, the Crocodiles tick all the boxes for a technical, low volume gaiter. Made from Gore-Tex and hardwearing Cordura, they are tough and very protective.

The Cordura extends beyond the standard crampon kick patch and up the inside of the leg, to provide maximum protection from fankles and stumbles with spikes on. This is good in a gaiter with such a premium price tag - trashing these EDITOR’S would be expensive. The design is long in the leg, CHOICE with a narrow calf to minimise bulk, and a contoured boot cuff to get a good seal. The cuff is in nta www.mou sized fairly wide to work with plastic and expedition boots. If you plan on wearing with leather boots it’s worth trying on and considering sizing down. At the top, a low profile hook and loop strap secures everything in place - with the buckle to one side to prevent bruised shins. The front closure is also super-sticky hook and loop, which is resistant to snow and mud as well as easy to get in and out of. Underfoot, a beefy BioThane strap and buckle is simple to adjust and the spare strap tabs out of the way, with no need to trim (and you can easily refit to different boots). These are superb in deep snow, on steep ground, and for battering through streams. If you do a lot of that sort of thing, they are definitely worth the investment. ■ www.outdoorresearch.com

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PARAMO GAITERS, £60

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 53

GEAR GUIDE

Synthetic lofting insulation for him IF YOU’RE WALKING OR CLIMBING IN WINTER CONDITIONS, A WEATHERPROOF INSULATED JACKET IS ESSENTIAL. TOM HUTTON AND LUCY WALLACE TRY A FEW OF THE BEST.

BEST BUY i ta www.moun

The lightest of the men’s jackets tested here, and while this makes it the easiest to carry (especially as it packs into its own inside pocket), and very versatile, as it makes a good mid layer for really cold weather; it also makes it less suitable for really poor winter conditions. For walking or low grade climbing, it’s brilliant – it can be left in the pack while you’re working hard or sheltered, and then thrown on over everything in a second, when you stop or get more exposed. But for more technical climbing or belaying, then it’s not really warm enough. It’s a simple jacket, with a snug hood that would go under, rather than over a helmet, and zip access pockets, and water resistance is excellent. Overall, a great insulation piece for walking, that would double as a belay jacket for summer rock, but a little light for Scottish winter climbing. (Weight: 350g).

■ www.patagonia.com

FINISTERRE SASTRUGA, £195 A wickedly warm, stylish jacket from Cornwall’s Finisterre. At a bulky 735g, it’s not one for the pack, but it is a seriously warm jacket, with a hefty 130g/m” PrimaLoft Silver Eco fill, and a tough ripstop fabric outer, that repelled a bit of rain well and would no doubt deal happily with snow. I like the concealed cuffs – warm and tidy – and the rollaway hood makes it good for casual wear.

I can also see it working well for winter sports in colder temperatures. The inside pocket is huge – it will swallow a map or guidebook with no trouble – but the hip pockets have no zips, making it too easy to lose something. The hood has plenty of adjustment but is too small to squeeze over a helmet. Overall a versatile jacket that will work casually and a across a range of activities. (Weight: 735g). ■ www.finisterreuk.com

RAB STRATA GUIDE JACKET, £200 The climbing jacket of the men’s selection – it’s warm and technical and about perfect for Scottish winter climbing, or hill walking in full-on typical UK winter conditions.

It features the new Polartec® Alpha synthetic insulation, with a fill weight of 120gsm, which is certainly warm. It also works well when wet. It’s superbly featured, with a great hood, that goes easily over a helmet and even features a wired peak. The pockets are cavernous – plenty of room for a map or guidebook – and the cuffs have Velcro tabs. Weight-wise, it’s not off the scales for a jacket this warm, and the fill compacts well so it doesn’t pack badly too. It’s finished off with reinforced shoulders that should protect it from wear from pack straps or even an axe, and the zips are all top quality YKK. If you’re after insulation for winter climbing, this is the boy. (Weight: 615g). ■ www.rab.equipment 54 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

ARC’TERYX ATOM AR HOODY MEN’S, £200 The Atom is a good mid weight insulation piece: just about light enough and compact enough to carry just in case, thin enough to squeeze under a shell if you want a warm mid layer; yet warm and weather resistant as an outer to climb or belay in; or to EDITOR’S pull on when CHOICE activity levels drop, or exposure in nta www.mou to the weather increases, when walking, climbing or ski touring. The outer fabric deals well with rain and wet snow, and dries quickly if it does eventually penetrate.

The fill is Coreloft – a proprietary insulation that feels incredibly warm for the weight and works well when wet. It has elasticated cuffs that work well and dry quickly; and a great hood that will go over a helmet. The zip-access pockets are well-placed and a good size; and the internal one’s useful too.

The hem is fastened with a drawcord. The AR in the name stands for All Rounder, and that sums this jacket up - if you’re after something super versatile, it’s the one for you. Weight 475g.

■ www.arcteryx.com

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PATAGONIA MEN’S NANO PUFF HOODY, £175

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GEAR GUIDE

PARAMO LADIES TORRES JACKET, £160

np rom ag.com

for her...

BEST BUY i ta

www.moun You get a lot of insulation for your money, although the trade-off is bulk. This is not surprising as it’s packed with 130gsm Nikwax Analogy Insulator. This retains warmth when wet and the Torres is generously sized to wear over outer layers. The adjustable hood will take a helmet, and the chest and hand warmer pockets are a good size. Hook and loop wrist closures help keep heat in. It’s normally too warm for wearing whilst moving about, but is brilliant as a belay jacket (two way zip allows harness access) or simply standing around in the cold. Weight (approx.) 540g. ■ www.paramo-clothing.com

SHERPA ADVENTURE GEAR WOMEN’S PENZUM HOODED JACKET, £150 The insulation is Primaloft Gold 40gsm, which doesn’t feel much less cosy than the 60gsm tested so it gets a big thumbs-up for warmth.

This could be due to the microfibre lined handwarmer pockets helping to insulate the body.

These pockets have a double zip, which suggests the jacket should stuff in to them, but it doesn’t (not without a big fight anyway). There is also a chest pocket. The adjustable hood fits over most climbing helmets (depending on the helmet model). Size medium is short in the body for me but otherwise the fit is attractive and flexible, thanks to a slightly stretchy nylon shell. It’s good looking, efficient and lightweight, albeit with a few minor niggles. Weight 335g. ■ www.sherpaadventuregear.co.uk

PATAGONIA WOMEN’S NANO PUFF HOODY, £175 Made with Primaloft Gold 60gsm, it’s warm for its weight and performs well in cold, damp weather thanks to skinny water resistant micro fibres that trap warm air. The dapper brickwork stitching helps to secure the fibres in place. The whole thing packs into its chest pocket, and the hand warmer pockets are nice and roomy. The hood is designed to be worn under a helmet, so is not adjustable, but the elastic trim means that it fits well. I feel the cold and found that it isn’t quite warm enough for me as a full belay jacket, but is about right as a mid layer for winter climbing, or descending the hill in cold conditions. Super-light at 292g.

■ www.patagonia.com/eu

BERGHAUS WOMEN’S ASGARD HYBRID JACKET, £200 Built from a combo of synthetic Hydroloft and 700-fill goose Hydrodown, (which has a a hydrophobic treatment), this jacket is the warmest for its weight that I tested. The insulation is zoned, with down panels around the core, and durable Hydroloft on the shoulders, arms, hood and hemline. These are also the parts that are most likely to get damp and Hydroloft works even when wet. However, because this is a synthetic insulation test, I deliberately put the Hydrodown panels to the test, wearing the jacket in soggier conditions than normal for down. I found that even with a thorough soaking, the Hydrodown hangs on to its loft, and importantly, dries quickly without clumps. Features include zipped hand pockets and chest pocket. It’s a solid, technical jacket, with an adjustable, helmet compatible wired hood, good for belays and winter weather.

Weight (approx.) 370g.

■ www.berghaus.com

RAB WOMEN’S STRATA HOODIE, £160 pr om ag.c om

Polartec Alpha is a bit different - a mesh of hydrophobic fibres with lofting filaments. It’s super EDITOR’S breathable, handling sweat better than traditional synthetic fills in part because it’s structure allows CHOICE for a lighter wicking lining. The Strata Hoodie excels at high energy, (i.e. sweaty) activities in cold environments. The inside is body-mapped with wicking and gently insulating panels to enhance in moisture transport. The shell is Pertex Microlight, which easily sheds wind and light precipitation. The nta www.mou hood fits well, and is designed to be worn under a helmet, and there are hand warmer pockets plus an external chest pocket for storage. The Strata Hoodie feels cosy but is much more comfortable to wear on a big walk in (when it is easy to overheat) than the other jackets tested. It’s a handy all day layer- reminiscent of the traditional pile/Pertex combination, but lighter and more compressible at 450g. ■ http://rab.equipment/uk/

www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 55

GEAR GUIDE

Axes and Crampons DAVID LINTERN TRIES A FEW TOOLS FOR WINTER WALKS AND EASIER CLIMBS.

The T rated Brenva is the most traditional axe here, and built for Scottish winter and ‘classical alpinism’. The adze is wide and sharp which is great for cutting steps or platforms, and the pick teeth are sharp. The rubber handle works with a range of gloves and resists ice buildup. The shaft is straight and the leash extremely basic, so there are better options if your axe spends more time above your head than at your side. The axe felt a little heavy in the hand to me, despite not being the heaviest here, perhaps as a result of the straight shaft. However, for those who are mainly walking, this is solid, general-purpose winter mountaineering kit that will last an entire round of winter Munros and then some. Weight 495g. ■ www.grivelgb.co.uk

CAMP ALPINA, £120 The T rated Alpina was a nice surprise - it’s pretty perfectly weighted when in use as an axe and the head was comfortable as a ‘walking cane’. The pick and adze have a non technical profile but are sharp, and there’s a decent amount of weight here gives momentum when the pointy end is used in anger. The shaft curve is gentle but elegant – just enough for maximum impact when swung, but still practical as a walking cane. The leash is not as comfortable as BD’s lockdown offering but easily outperforms the other offerings on steeper ground. The one thing that lets this down is the glued ‘sandpaper’ grip, which attracts lots of ice when the axe is used as a cane. Otherwise, the Alpina is a beautifully made and very adaptable mountaineering tool. Weight 470g.

■ www.camp-usa.com/

np rom ag.com

GRIVEL BRENVA, £100

BEST BUY i ta www.moun

PETZL SUMMIT, £100 The B rated Summit is light, and so it found a lot of use spring outings late last season, where I was carrying a lot of other gear.

The aluminium shaft is practically curved but comfy for walking, and the handle is simply contoured metal so slides easily into snow. I missed the grip and warmth of a rubber handle, especially when wearing liner gloves. The pick teeth aren’t particularly sharp but the point is nicely bevelled so it does the job, as long as you give it some welly to compensate for the lack of weight overall. The adze has a shallower curve to it than a trad axe, but it still works in a pinch if you need to chop out a platform. For technical mountaineering I prefer something with a little more oomph, but is a great lightweight hill-walking axe that will handle low in the grade rock and rime when needed. Approved for crevasse rescue use. Weight 380g. ■ www.petzl.com

BLACK DIAMOND VENOM, £115

56 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

EDITOR’S CHOICE

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The B rated ‘bridges the gap’ between classical and technical according to BD, which I think is a good summation.

Both point and teeth on the replaceable pick really are razor sharp and the Venom performs the best of all those tested here on ice and turf. The tool felt superb in the hand when used as an axe, and was heavy enough for confident placements, without being a burden when walking. The technical side of things is further enhanced by the ‘lockdown’ leash, which is very comfortable on the wrist and works well levering the tool. The adze is on the small side and the sharp teeth mean it’s not so comfortable in use as a cane. The rubberised handle works well with gloves and resists ice buildup, and the pick is dropped enough to tackle climbing with some clearance. Paired with a hammer tool for gullies and easier climbing routes, this tool excels when used at, ahem, the sharp end, but is perhaps slightly less well suited to winter walking. Weight 528g ■ blackdiamondequipment.com

in nta www.mou

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BLACK DIAMOND CONTACT CRAMPON, £100 BD have obviously put a lot of thought into these – stainless steel to prevent rust, BEST BUY i keep the strength up but the weight down, and with 10 points that are a ta www.moun ‘best of all worlds’ compromise between the volume and depth of the more traditional offerings, and the short sharp shock of my favourites.

In particular, the 2nd pair of front points are barbed, which seems to aid security on steeper ground. The semi automatic variety were on test here, and I had no issue with the balling plates. There’s a binding lock with a small metal tab that seems fussy at first but over time gives extra friction. I was very happy with these over rock, ice and snow.

Great price too. Also available in universal bindings. Weight 808g.

■ www.blackdiamondequipment.com

CAMP STALKER, £95 The Stalker is Camp’s best selling crampon, geared firmly towards winter walking and available in semi automatic and universal bindings. Universal bindings aren’t just for B1 boots – they can useful for ski boots and for MRT who want a spare pair around as an aid to walking people off the hill. 12 nicely distributed and aggressive points, uncompromising steel build and with vibram anti balling plates, these are a good budget option. On my test over early season mixed Scottish ground, one foot did pop out of the binding after a longish descent, but otherwise they proved a solid option and I had no issues. Weight 948g.

■ www.camp-usa.com/

GRIVEL G10 NEW CLASSIC, £110 My personal preference of the 2 universal binding options here, and with 10 long points. Those high volume points can feel a little like overkill early season in Scotland, but the units pack down small and the ‘antibot’ balling plates work a treat to keep big chunks of wet snow from collecting on your plates of meat. These offer the traditional 2-ring lock, which is more than functional. The tried and true option for easier ground and more flexible boots. Also available in semi automatic bindings.

Weight 822g.

■ www.grivelgb.co.uk

PETZL CHARLET IRVIS CRAMPONS, £115

EDITOR’S

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CHOICE For general winter mountaineering, my preference is for a semi automatic crampon matched to a stiffer boot, and in this regard, the leverlock version of the Irvis fulfilled the brief perfectly. The 10 points in nta www.mou are ridiculously sharp, cling like limpets to ice and show no sign of blunting after some rough use. The points are a lot shorter than others here, but that works well for ice and mixed ground, where longer points can stress the ankles over a few hours. They pack down the smallest of all four here. The linking bar can be adjusted for boot stiffness, the binding lock is an exceptionally secure update on the traditional double washer design, and the balling plates were simple and faultless. Overall, I felt very safe in these, which is the desired effect. Just watch out for your trousers when stepping up! Also available in universal bindings. Weight 876g.

■ www.petzl.com/en www.mountainpromag.com

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 57

TRIED AND TESTED

Tried & Tested CHANTELLE KELLY GRABBED FIVE MINUTES WITH TOM BALLARD, NEWLY SIGNED WITH MONTANE, TO FIND OUT ABOUT HIS FAVOURITE KIT. CAN YOU TELL ME A BIT ABOUT YOURSELF? My life is all about climbing, primarily solo climbing. All I wanted to do since I was about 11 was to climb and nothing else. I currently have a ‘base camp’ in the Italian Dolomites with my father. This consists of a few old ramshackle tents. It’s the cheapest way to live close to the mountains.

WHAT IS ESSENTIAL TO YOU IN REGARDS TO CLIMBING EQUIPMENT? Ice axes are a very important piece of kit. For years I have been using the same old tools, with customization. They have got me up everything from easy snow plods to the second ascent of Ironman D14+ in Switzerland (one of the world’s hardest dry tooling routes)! So it was a bit of a shock when halfway through last winter I was given a pair of Cassin X-Dream. Right from the start I felt comfortable with them, the first route I actually climbed using them was the Macintyre-Colton on the Grande Jorasses. But it takes time to get used to a new set of tools.

Practice makes perfect. The tools must become an extension of your arm, you must feel through the tip of the pick as you would with your fingertip!

58 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KIT? I love the Cassin X-Dream. I think they are the best tools currently available in the world for ice climbing. But adjust the handle angle, add the Alpine Handle, change the picks, and you can take them up any mixed climb anywhere.

WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING CLIMBING SHOES? Performance: I don’t downsize my shoes all that much; I take the same as my normal shoe size. Painful shoes are a real blight, there is nothing worse. But the shoes must be tight in order to work; you can’t have your feet slipping around when tackling the crux. There are a mindboggling number of shoes out there. Most people, after much trial and error, find a brand that fits their feet and stick with it.

Scarpa and La Sportiva both use the same Vibram rubber, so it’s just about which fit your own feet best! When trying them on, there should never be any pressure points. Have a go on a wall if there is one in the shop, even just standing on an ‘edge’ such as a skirting board. Remember that you will probably be wearing them on a warm day, your feet will be a lot bigger, and that some shoes stretch by as www.mountainpromag.com

TRIED AND TESTED

much as one full size (the old Fivetens used to stretch a lot).

There is usually a big difference between lace, velcro and slip-on models of the shame shoe. I will take the SCARPA Instinct as an example, a shoe I know intimately. The slip-on model, the original, is incredibly simple and good for most routes, from overhangs to steep slabs. But it does stretch by half a size after wearing them a couple of weeks, so it’s worth putting up with the tightness for a while. The lace has a much larger toe box so it fits wider feet better, and with the laces you can achieve more precise fitting and tightness. The velcro version, called Instinct VS, is the newest and most sophisticated of the three. It feels a lot stiffer at the toe, really excelling on steep slabs and vertical walls with miniscule holds; you will be amazed at what you can stand on! But also with the soft mid sole is great on even the most overhanging test pieces. The fit is much narrower in the toe box than the other two. As far as comfort goes, usually you will be looking at an out of box fit. I would recommend wearing a sock. Then you can alternate between thick and thin socks depending on the weather, thus getting a more precise fit.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR GREATEST CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENT? I would say my greatest climbing achievement happened last winter, www.mountainpromag.com

Starlight and Storm. I became the first person to solo all six classic north faces of the Alps in a single winter season. My mum had been the first person, of any gender, to solo them all in a single summer season. So it’s a great bit of family history. Both the Comici on Cima Grande and Cassin on Piz Badile were second winter solo ascents. I also made the first ever winter solo of the Allain-Leiniger on the Petit Dru. Overall it was a dream come true. The weather and conditions played into my hands, and the last three ascents (Grandes Jorasses, Dru, and Eiger) were within two weeks. Understandably I was quite tired at the end!

WHAT’S YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE? Competing at the Ice Climbing World Cup.

To keep up to date with Tom’s latest projects, find him on Facebook.

Tom is sponsored by Camp, Cassin, GM sport, Montane, Scarpa and Virna Pierobon Projects.

JANUARY 2016 | Mountain Pro 59

GEAR GUIDE

Cutting Edge THE LATEST MOUNTAIN GOODIES AS REVIEWED BY OUR GRIZZLED, ALL CONDITIONS GEAR TEAM. VANGO FUSE -12 £220

After seeing this at Friedrichshafen I was keen to try this out in conditions that would begin to test it’s claims. It’s a hybrid sleeping bag that claims a rating of -12c, based on a mix of 70%, 700+ fill power, ethically sourced down and ‘4T’ synthetic fibres, which have been ‘fused’ together to support the down via a lattice framework. Vango claim it stays dry four times as long than untreated down. The outer shell is 30 denier ripstop nylon which has stood up well so far, construction is boxwall, seams are well positioned and the 2 way zip is nigh on full length and substantially baffled. It’s a roomy enough bag, which allows internal movement and doesn’t restrict the feet, there’s a full hood with a cord closure to lock in the warmth and a small internal pocket. On test, the hydrophobic down worked well - I’ve packed this really damp and after being compressed all day it’s bounced back within an hour or so. The Fuse is warm, with a really luxurious amount of filling around the head and shoulders – I think the rating limit of -12c is a little over confident, but also that the comfort rating of -5c is conservative, so pick a line between those 2 truths and throw in that I am a cold, side sleeper. For me, alongside other insulation worn, this is a genuine UK 4 season bag that should deal very well with the dreich. Weight 1.5kg. DL ■ www.vango.co.uk/gb/

EDELRID JUL 2 £25 Building on the success of the innovative Mega Jul, Edelrid have brought out a single rope assisted braking device aimed primarily at indoor and single pitch sport use. The easy braking action is great if a belayer is holding repeated leader falls, but is softer than the Jul 2, to discourage careless belaying (i.e. the dreaded hands free error) and provide a softer catch. It also differs from the light weight Mega Jul in that it is quite a beefy device at 87g, due in part to the broad ergonomic thumb loop which channels the rope and helps protect the soft part of the hand from abrasion.

It’s made from stainless steel, which adds to the weight but is very durable. I’ve been using one at the wall for a few weeks and find it reassuringly comfortable for holding falls especially as my usual climbing partner is heavier than me. Paying out rope to a leader is easy, with one hand on the thumb loop, and lowering is smooth and controlled. I do find that it’s possible to nip the skin if lowering too fast so this is to be avoided (or wear gloves, which is best, if not normal practice anyway). It works really well on thicker ropes (suitable for 8.9-11mm ropes), so is ideally suited to the chubby and stiff top ropes often found in situ at climbing walls. LW ■ www.edelrid.de/

EPSON RUNSENSE SF-810V £180 I’ve been using a training watch to help me get back to fitness after a recent injury, and there’s little doubting that this ability to measure performance helps to motivate. But they are a faff – particularly the heart rate monitor belt, which can be uncomfortable, doesn’t look great, and I am prone to forgetting; so I was pretty excited when the Runsense arrived – no more heart rate belt. At first it seems odd that it’s actually taking its readings from your wrist; so I thought I’d be semiscientific and wear this plus my ordinary training companion and put myself through a hard turbo trainer session, to see how they compared. There were subtle differences – the Runsense seemed to react ever so slightly slower to sprints – but overall there was nothing to choose between them. So then it was outside to walk, run and bike. It is really simple to start – and flicking through the screens is a doddle too. But the available information is definitely more aimed at runners, with pace per km/mile for example, and not at navigators, whereas my current watch will show me an OS grid reference at the press of a button. It connects to the PC easily when you get back, and the information download and associated screens and graphs etc are all as you’d expect, with useful goal setting modes and other training aids. It also links to other apps such as MapMyFitness or Strava. Overall, it’s a great training watch but not a navigation aid. TH ■ www.epson.co.uk/ 60 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2016

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NOV / DEC 2015

Outdoor Enthusiast is also available to read – and share – online, it’s completely free and iPad, iPhone and tablet-friendly.

Simply log on to www.oe-mag.com and click ‘read online’.

www.oe-mag.com