9. Mpro October2016

M PRO

▲ Climbing ▲ Mountaineering ▲ Guiding ▲ Exploration

WWW.MOUNTAINPROMAG.COM OCTOBER 2016

A BOLIVIAN ODYSSEY

an arctic first ascent

ICE STATION HALLEY

■ PINNACLE CLUB ■ SPANISH HIGHS ■ CHANGABANG ■ taking on the yUKON ■ reviewed: BOOTS, NEW GEAR

Contributors Jonatar Evaristo is a freelance journalist reporting on remote and isolated areas in Latin America. www.jonatarevaristo.wordpress.com.

Michal Krzysztofowicz is currently wintering in Antarctica working for British Antarctic Survey as Data Manager. Geek, diver, photographer, sailor and outdoor enthusiast. www.beautifulocean.org

Ralph Villiger sailed the Atlantic single handed and climbed many remote peaks in South America and Greenland. His mountaineering companion most often was Harald Fichtinger. Ralph died climbing in Switzerland, in August 2015. www.ralphvilliger.com

Welcome This issue belongs, perhaps more than any other recently, to the readers. All the features here are from our readers – individuals going out on a limb to do amazing things, who’ve approached us with their dreams, schemes and adventures. Maybe there is some satisfaction in that from our point of view, but the real story is theirs… and therefore yours too. We’re lucky that Mountain Pro, as a purely electronic magazine, has a truly international readership, and this issue reflects that too – Michal, Mark, Jonatar and Ralph all speak honestly in their own unique voices. Still, you might recognise some of their hopes and challenges. I know I do.

It’s to my shame that we didn’t publish Ralph Villiger’s story when he first approached me with it, in March 2015. We didn’t have the space at the time. Recently, I tried to get in touch with the offer to run the piece, but the email bounced. I did a web search, and discovered news of his death on Gspaltenhorn. With the kind permission of his family and friends (and a personal tribute from his partner Marie), we are choosing to run it as a tribute to Ralph’s passion for life and appetite for untamed places. His is a fantastic, swashbuckling adventure. I hope you enjoy it, alongside the rest of the magazine. And if you would like to share your own stories, please get in touch.

See you on the hill,

Da vid David Lintern, Editor

www.mountainpromag.com

Abi Chard is a climber and member of the Pinnacle Club, the UK’s national women’s climbing club, founded in 1921 to promote women’s participation in climbing. www.pinnacleclub.co.uk

Dan Aspel is the new gear editor for Mountain Pro, a journalist and summer ML with a particular passion for scrambling, bivvying and via ferrata.

Chantelle Kelly is our editorial assistant without whom interviews, book reviews and more would not happen.

Lucy Wallace is a freelance Winter Mountain Leader, Wildlife Guide and Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Assessor based in Scotland. She works with adult and youth groups, coaching navigation and hill walking skills, as well as leading schools’ expeditions overseas.

Nicole Macgregor is responsible for the day to day running of Mountain Heritage Trust. Based in the Lake District, Nicole is also a keen rock climber. www.mountain-heritage.org

Alison Austin is the John Muir Trust Property Manager for Ben Nevis Estate, and also a geologist, climber and mountaineer. www.johnmuirtrust.org OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 3

Contents Women’s climbing

First ascent in Greenland

Spanish Highs

A Bolivian Odyssey

NEWS 6 gear news 8 book reviews 11 Women’s International Climbing Meet 14 interview: mark hines 18 Guide Profile: Spanish Highs 22 Ice Station Halley - working for BAS 26 John Muir Trust Ranger’s Diary 34 Perfect Teamwork: a first ascent in Greenland 36 british ascents of changabang 44 VERTEBRATE Presents: When men and mountains meet 46 A BOLIVIAN ODYSSEY 48 GEAR: BOOTS 55 GEAR: CUTTING EDGE 58 60 TRIED AND TESTED: JAMES THACKER

the team EDITOR: David Lintern e: david.lintern@targetpublishing.com GEAR EDITOR: Dan Aspel e: dan.aspel@targetpublishing.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Chantelle Kelly e: editorial@targetpublishing.com SUB EDITOR: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com SALES DIRECTOR: Ruth Gilmour e: ruth.gilmour@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810084 GROUP SALES MANAGER: Michael Wolstenholme e: michael.wolstenholme@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810067 SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE: Chris Kemp e: chris.kemp@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810083 DESIGN/PRODUCTION: Leann Boreham e: leann.boreham@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810075 MARKETING EXECUTIVE: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810091 MANAGING DIRECTOR: David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com Some material may be speculative and/or not in agreement with current medical practice. Information in FSN is provided for professional education and debate and is not intended to be used by non-medically qualified readers as a substitute for, or basis of, medical treatment. Copyright of articles remains with individual authors. All rights reserved. No article may be reproduced in any form, printed or electronically, without wriiten consent of the author and publisher. Copying for use in education or marketing requires permission of the author and publisher and is prohibited without that permission. Articles may not be scanned for use on personal or commercial websites or CD-ROMs. Published by Target Publishing Limited. Colour reproduction & printing by The Magazine Printing Company, Enfield, Middx. EN3 7NT www.magprint.co.uk . ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material lin accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication.

TRIED AND TESTED

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Published by Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ t: 01279 816300 f: 01279 816496 e: info@targetpublishing.com www.targetpublishing.com

Cover image Michal Krzysztofowicz

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NEWS and events

NEWS AND EVENTS Mountain Arts Festival returns Community Action Nepal is pleased to announce the second Mountain Arts Festival at The Rheged Discovery Centre, from 21 - 23 October, 2016.

A wide range of walks, talks and lectures given by a range of highly acclaimed thinkers involved with mountains. Two separate guided walks, lead by Professor Terry Gifford, Claire Hind & Clare Qualmann, on Friday 21 October allows participants to question the relationship between creativity and hill walking, whilst lectures on Saturday 22 October include Professor Terry Gifford’s thoughts

Mountain Arts Festival: Friday 21 – Sunday 23 October 2016 The Rheged Discovery Centre, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0DQ.

on mountaineering literature and an interview with ‘Rock Queen’

■ Opening time: 10.00 a.m. Closing time varies on each day.

Catherine Destivelle. On Sunday 23, the lecture ‘Climbing as An Art’

■ Tickets: £7.50 - £51.

sees Andy Kirkpatrick in conversation with Doug Scott, followed by

See www.rheged.com for full information.

Gwen Moffat and Claire-Jane Carter talking about climbing with Ben Ayers.

Other highlights include the late Jim Curran’s films, a range of lectures including Sir Chris Bonington and Doug Scott CBE, with

Festival Art Exhibition: Wednesday 19 – Thursday 27 October 2016

musical high jinx provided by Striding Edge, the legendary Cumbrian

■ Opening time: 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily. The Exhibition is

Ceilidh band.

free of charge for admission. Donations to CAN are welcomed.

During the festival, there will be an art exhibition based around

See www.rheged.com for full information.

the title ‘A Day in The Hills’ which will be free of charge. Walking artist Hamish Fulton will be showing a text wall made specially for

Proceeds from the Mountain Arts Festival will support the

the festival alongside Julian Cooper’s skilful landscape paintings.

Nepal Earthquake Appeal of Community Action Nepal

The dialogue between the works of the many diverse contemporary

http://www.canepal.org.uk/

artists serves to explore how mountains inspire artists. A number of the artists will also be speaking about their work during the festival.

‘A Day in The Hills’ runs from 19-27 October 2016.

At the Mountain Bazaar, books, films and prints are on sale as well as a pop up exhibition of ‘Savage Arena: The Legacy of Joe Tasker’ run by the Mountain Heritage Trust.

Overall, it promises to be an unmissable weekend for anyone interested in the creative connections between mountains, walks, writing and art making.

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BMC Women in Adventure film competition relaunched for 2017 The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is inviting professional, student and amateur film-makers to submit short films about the mountain adventures of outdoor women.

In the UK, just 5% of sports coverage is of women. Things look a little more promising within the adventure film industry, with a

▶︎

fifth of the films screened at ShAFF 2014 made by/or featuring lead women. But there is still a significant gender imbalance, which the competition hopes to rectify. The competition especially welcomes films where women are behind the camera as well as in front of it.

WomenClimb founder Emily Pitts, said: “We know that women are doing very adventurous things in the UK and round the world, but this isn’t always reflected on screen. Anyone can make a film – there is more access now than ever before to the equipment you need to create a compelling short film. Showing the world the

the prestigious Banff Mountain Film Festival in Canada.

In addition to the best film we’ll also be awarding prizes for the

power of adventure through the eyes of women and showcasing

best micro-adventure (£300), best student film (£300), and the

women’s achievements is what this competition is about.”

people’s choice (£150).

Heather Swift, winner of last year’s competition said: “In a

The deadline for submission is midday (GMT) Monday 9 January

world which is still dominated by men on almost every level,

2017. Entries will be streamed on BMC TV after the closing date,

this competition gives women in adventure sports a chance to

and shared on the BMC’s social channels. The winners will be

shine through and be heard. On a personal level it was a massive

announced at ShAFF on Saturday 18 March.

confidence boost for me to push forward my own work and get stuck in.”

The overall winner of the competition will receive £500, have

Full details, submission guidelines and entry forms are available on the BMC website. You can watch last year’s entries including the winning film Kosmos (above) on BMC TV.

their film screened at the Sheffield Adventure Film Festival 2017, as well as a complimentary entry and a chance to be screened at

More details here: www.thebmc.co.uk/womensfilm

New research into mountain wind farms identifies major risk to visitor economy

mountain landscapes from insensitive developments. The 23% of

Mountaineering Scotland has quantified the impact wind farms

to the Scottish economy in 2008 – more than all other nature-based

located in mountain landscapes have on hill-walking behaviour for

tourism combined – and 15% of all tourism spend.”

the first time. In a survey of members, over two thirds (67%) stated

members who avoid areas with wind farms or go less often compares with just 2% who said they were encouraged to visit the mountains more often because of wind farms.

Mountaineering Scotland Chief Executive, David Gibson said: “Hillwalkers are likely to be particularly sensitive consumers of landscape.

They are therefore a barometer in terms of identifying wider tourism impacts from wind farms. Mountain recreation is a significant tourism market in Scotland. Walking tourism was estimated to bring in £627m

This is the only survey which has ever asked Scottish hill

that they prefer not to see wind farms when in the mountains and

walkers and mountaineers how wind farms impact on their current

22% said that they avoided areas with wind farms when planning

mountaineering activities. In a previous survey in 2013-14, 56% of

their activities.

members anticipated avoiding areas with wind farms in the future.

Mountaineering Scotland has published a report into the impact

David continues: “With more wind farms consented and due to be

wind farms have on the behaviour of mountaineers and hill walkers

built and new applications for industrial-scale developments coming

as part of the evidence base the organisation uses when opposing

in all the time, we must not be complacent. Scotland’s cherished

the small number of wind farm planning applications that it believes

mountain landscapes and wild land are at risk of being significantly

would cause irreparable damage to Scottish mountain landscapes if

diminished over time and this could have a major negative impact

allowed to go ahead.

on local communities that rely on their visitor and tourist economy.

Over 1400 Mountaineering Scotland members, mostly hill-

How much future displacement there is will depend upon how well

walkers, responded to a survey which sought their views on a

Scotland’s mountains are protected by the planning system and

range of subjects, including the organisation’s policy on protecting

Scottish Ministers.”

www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 7

GEAR NEWS

SLEEP SYSTEMS PHD have an enviable reputation for Expedition insulation. Jacob Thrall introduces a new take on the modular approach to keeping warm that alpinists have developed over the last century.

All photos: Jon Griffith for PHD

I

f you’re overnighting in the mountains – whichever mountains

capable of withstanding the coldest temperatures you’re ever going

they may be – you’ll obviously have warm clothing with you for

to encounter – means you’ve got something which is over the top

when you stop moving. You’ll also have a sleeping bag. So, that

for most situations…and you can’t just take half a sleeping bag. With

means you’re carrying the weight and bulk of the insulation

a series of components though, you can select what you’re going to

you’ll wear, and the weight and bulk of the insulation you’ll sleep in.

You can probably see where this is going…if you combine your

need.

Of course, taking a modular approach to insulation is nothing new

insulating layers, you’ll save weight. A deceptively simple idea, which

– we do it almost instinctively with clothing – but with sleeping it’s

underpins the new Sleep Systems concept from PHD.

more unusual. Sometimes it’s improvised on the fly, wriggling into a

The principle of keeping weight to an absolute minimum has

jacket as teeth start to chatter inside an inadequate bag. Sometimes

been important for as long as lighter meant faster in the mountains.

it is done intentionally, but that tends to be the preserve of a fairly

Manufacturers use extremely lightweight fabrics, high fillpower

niche group of lightweight fanatics, and even then it requires a lot of

down, even custom sizing, to get their kit as light and small as

trial and error.

possible. As a mountaineer, if you’re already doing that, then the only way to save weight on your kit is to take less of it!

As well as cutting down on what’s in your pack, the other big

That’s where PHD’s Sleep Systems come in. The trial and error, guesswork and general umming and ahhing has already been taken care of. Sleep Systems provides a clear framework to illustrate how

advantage to mixing and matching is the versatility. The usual

sleeping bags, filler bags, overbags, half bags and clothing will

approach of taking a ‘worst case scenario’ sleeping bag – one

behave when combined – something you can’t tell by scrutinising

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taking a modular approach to insulation is nothing new – we do it almost instinctively with clothing – but with sleeping it’s more unusual.

individual specifications.

For example, PHD’s Minim 400 sleeping bag is rated with a Typical

Using clothing as part of your sleep system has another advantage which is perhaps less immediately obvious: getting up is a much less

Operating Temperature of -5°C; their ‘Filler’ bag is rated (when used

daunting prospect. If you need to answer a call of nature, the thought

solo) at +15°C…but that doesn’t tell you what will happen when one

of crawling out of your sleeping bag at -10°C really isn’t very inviting!

is put inside the other. The answer is that you get a Full System Sleep

If you’re wearing a full outfit of down insulated clothing though, it’s

Rating of -15°C.

less of a bind.

Another hurdle it overcomes is sorting out the difference between

And that brings us back to where we came in: if you’re somewhere

sleeping and waking. In other words, clothing which keeps you warm

cold, you’ll have warm clothing. If, through understanding of its

enough when you’re awake will not do the same when you’re asleep:

performance, you can confidently use that clothing as part of

as the metabolism slows, the body generates less heat. Clothing is

your sleep system, you don’t need to carry a big sleeping bag.

designed for use when you’re awake, so if you use it in your sleep

That understanding and confidence is what PHD’s Sleep Systems

system, its figures need adjusting as well as combining with the

provides, and with it, lower weight, less bulk and greater versatility.

figures for the sleeping bag.

With a sleeping bag, clothing and filler bag, the numbers get even

Take a look at PHD’s Sleep Systems info pages for as much detail as you could ever possibly need!

more complex! Again though, that complexity has already been dealt with, so you’re just left with the convenience of a mix and match

www.phdesigns.co.uk/what-is-sleep-systems

library of kit for wherever you’re heading. www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 9

The Alpine Bookshelf Our pick of the new reads this autumn.

East of the Himalaya: Alps of Tibet and Beyond Published by Japanese Alpine Club Approx £60 I was very fortunate to be sent a copy of this reference volume published on the 100th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club. It’s a staggering body of work from mountaineer Tamotsu ‘Tom’ Nakamura, covering his extensive research in east Tibet and west Sichuan. Tamotsu has made over 37 expeditions in the last quarter century, and in leaving this legacy has done mountaineering a great service. Information is offered in both English and Japanese, including ridgeline mapping compiled from on the ground exploration and multiple map sources, climbing history where it applies (which is not that often!), as well as extensive photographic documentation of an area about 1500km across. The volume of work is genuinely impressive, by any standard. It’s the author’s contention that there are still around four hundred 6000m peaks left unclimbed in the region. And the majority are likely to resist first ascents for a good while: After the Lhasa Uprising in 2008, foreign travel in the TAR has become harder than ever to negotiate. Those regions outside immediate Chinese control will likely succumb first, but this book is a lifetime resource and serious temptation for very committed and experienced alpinists. Available in the UK by direct mail order, via email: ibd@kinokuniya.co.jp. David Lintern

WHEN MEN & MOUNTAINS MEET Published by Vertebrate Publishing £12 The fifth book by Bill Tilman, originally published in 1946, is a story of two completely different halves that have more in common than you might at first suppose. The first half is classic Tilman: a 1939 expedition to the Assam Himalaya to explore unknown regions and climb untrodden peaks. They are plagued by malaria, snow-blindness, leeches, savage weather, and meet a German team looking for the abominable snowman. But Tilman’s heart isn’t really in his mountain work, because he knows war could break out at any moment. In the book’s second half, he tries to ‘adapt a war to one’s own ends’ without much success – although he does get some climbing done in Iraq with a borrowed ice axe. Later, he is airdropped behind enemy lines to fight alongside Albanian and Italian partisans in the mountains. Here we see how the skills learned in peacetime exploration come to the fore in the bloodiest conflict of the 20th century. The adventure is narrated with characteristic humour and dry wit, together with fascinating insights into the culture of mountain communities. This is Tilman’s writing at its best. Alex Roddie

Let my people go surfing Published by Patagonia £20 This revised and updated edition of the classic sustainable business bible is a complicated read, but not because it’s badly written - on the contrary, Chouinard speaks plainly and simply. It’s complicated because of the world it sits in, a world of unsustainable growth for profit, a world that Patagonia the outdoor gear company both wrestles with and benefits from. The book isn’t about surfing, or climbing. It’s about the mistakes the company makes, the environmental awakening the author has, and what he decides to do with that information. The list of innovations in design, engineering, fabric science, eco footprint, HR, corporate social responsibility and business organisation is so endless that it’s difficult not to be cynical. But just as I find myself thinking ‘greenwash’, I’m disarmed: Again and again, Chouinard is matter of fact about his company’s many errors on it’s way to being one of the most ecologically sound paragons of capitalist virtue that exists… as if that isn’t an oxymoron. The author is aware of the contradictions of course, and to his credit chooses to contain them. He’s not just a benevolent entrepreneur giving away money… as he says himself, “It’s okay to be eccentric, as long as you are rich. Otherwise you’re just crazy”. The mission is bigger – make a profit and lead the way for others, both in product quality and environmental impact. He’s plainly very proud of his company, but forgive him that and Let My People Go Surfing is a fascinating, full and frank confessional about a business which leads the pack in terms of environmental credentials. Available from mid October in the EU. David Lintern

House of Snow Published by Head of Zeus Ltd £25 The highly anticipated House of Snow is a comprehensive collection of stories, poems and articles that reveal a diverse Nepal, featuring contributions from mountaineers, poets, political journalists and celebrities. With the foreword written by Sir Ranulph Fiennes, introduction by Ed Douglas, other highlights include Bill Tilman, Sir Edmund Hillary, Dervla Murphy and Michael Palin. It’s a fascinating read because of this variety of voices; whether they were building a school, trekking or climbing, all provide valuable insight into the people of Nepal and their way of life.

There’s as much about the culture and history of the place as about conquering mountains. All profits made from the sale of the book are being donated to the Pahar Trust Nepal, to fund earthquake relief projects. Chantelle Kelly www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 11

GEAR NEWS

THE FUTURE OF SEARCH AND RESCUE? Justine Heeley, Managing Director at McMurdo UK, looks at new developments in search and rescue technology.

I

n recent years, Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) have seen more

406 MHz emergency frequency which is received by an orbiting

uptake, not just by sea kayakers and Mountain Rescue Teams,

Cospas-Sarsat satellite. The alert is then relayed via a satellite ground

but also by the general mountain-going public. PLB’s are small

station to a Mission Control Centre (MCC) where it is passed to the

beacons that can send out a distress signal where usual forms of

nearest Rescue Coordination Centre (RCC) who will then determine

communication, like your mobile phone, have no coverage or do not

what search and rescue facilities are closest to you, and contact them

work. A PLB can be carried as a safeguard against any life threatening

to arrange a rescue.

incidents that may occur anywhere in the world, on land, sea or in the air.

The technology

The next generation of this system is on its way and is due to make a huge impact on the accuracy, and most importantly, the speed, at which you are rescued.

MEOSAR (or Medium-altitude Earth Orbit Search and Rescue

Since its launch in 1982, the International Cospas-Sarsat Programme,

system), currently in its early operational phase, is being installed

a satellite-based search and rescue system, has helped to save over

around the world and is expected to be fully operational in the next

40,000 lives. In simple terms, a PLB transmits a radio signal on the

three to five years. Without getting too technical, what makes this

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system different is the number of satellites that will be used, their position around the globe, and what kind of signals they are able to

Good Practice for non subscription based Personal Locator Beacons.

pick up.

With MEOSAR, locations are calculated much more quickly because

1. Register your PLB

multiple satellites are receiving and relaying various signals at

It is vital that you register your new PLB with your National EPIRB

once. MEOSAR will improve the speed, accuracy and reliability of

Authority. Each 406MHz PLB has a unique digital identity. This

the Cospas-Sarsat System as well as, in the longer term, offering

unique number is equivalent to a phone number, and it is sent

additional features such as a return link transmission that will allow

along with your 406MHz distress signal to the Search and Rescue

beacons to provide confirmation that the distress message has been

Services. Pre-registration of the PLB means that the number is

received. A confirmation that can mean a lot to someone on their

recognised by the authorities when the distress signal is received.

own, and in distress.

Real Life Rescue

2. Keep your registration current Don’t forget to keep your beacon’s registration information

Earlier this year, the first life was saved using MEOSAR, which had

updated as frequently as possible — especially in the days

only been operating in test mode for three days. Don Stevens, a

leading up to your departure.

53-year-old teacher from Wellington, New Zealand, was hiking over rugged terrain in the Tararua Range when he fell more than 90 feet,

3. Self-test your beacon and identify a 24-hour contact before

breaking his leg and leaving him unable to walk. After he activated his

departing

PLB, the distress signal was relayed by the MEOSAR satellite system

Before setting out, it’s important to test your beacon to make sure

to the Rescue Coordination Centre in New Zealand in only four

it is functioning properly. You will also want to include a 24-hour

minutes – 50 minutes sooner than when the existing system picked

contact in your registration profile.

up the same distress signal.

The Rescue Coordination Centre in New Zealand said that the

4. Keep the beacon within reach

extra time created by receiving the signal faster was invaluable and

The last step before departure is to identify an easy-to-access

potentially lifesaving, as it meant they could get the search operation

and effective location for your beacon. There are too many

underway earlier – something that made all the difference with the

stories of individuals who lost precious time in an emergency

limited daylight hours available at the time of year.

situation because their beacon was out of immediate reach.

Attach it to you if you can, with a pouch or lanyard.

For more information on McMurdo Fast Find PLBs, visit their website www.mcmurdogroup.com

5. Activate a distress beacon only in a true life or death situation Emergency beacons are one of the most reliable tools for improving your chance of rescue. Always keep as many communications options as possible, including mobile phones, radios and automatic identification systems.

6. Stay in the same location In the majority of search and rescue situations, you should remain in the same location as long as possible.

7. Make yourself visible The more you understand the nature of the location, the easier it will be to make yourself clearly visible to search and rescue teams. Some beacons have strobe lights to aid in rescue efforts.

Use any and all tools at your disposal, including flares, other lighting or any other bright or reflective devices.

8. Give the rescue effort time and stay calm A beacon can be activated in seconds, but depending on where you are, it may be several hours before rescue authorities are able to come to your assistance.

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 13

women’s climbing

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Inspiration is the climber next door Abi Chard explains why the women’s only Pinnacle Club still has a role to play.

Photography by Jessie Long www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 15

women’s climbing

T

he Pinnacle Club ran its first international women’s meet in 1984, when it was rare to see women climbing trad routes together, particularly in the higher grades. Thirtytwo years later that sight is happily much more common,

even if it still provokes comment. During the Women’s International Climbing Meet (WICM) jointly run by the Pinnacle Club and the BMC this year, male climbers arriving at North Wales crags would often express surprise to find teams of women on most of the routes. But reassuringly, their reaction was overwhelmingly supportive.

Numerical inequality in the climbing world is one of the reasons that women-only events are still needed. Exact figures are hard to come by, given that climbing is a fairly anarchic activity – and long may it remain so – but estimates are that women make up at most just a quarter of all climbers. And that figure reduces depending on which branch of the sport you look at, the highest participation

80 women from 24 countries coming together to climb trad for a week in North Wales was a pretty unusual occasion.

being in indoor climbing and the lowest in winter climbing, with trad climbing – the area this year’s meet was focused on – coming not

the people you actually climb with. As a woman, it’s not unusual to

far above. So, against that background, 80 women from 24 countries

arrive at a crag and be the only woman there, something that men

coming together to climb trad for a week in North Wales was a pretty

rarely experience. What women lack, that men take for granted, is

unusual occasion. Some of the women on the WICM had met before,

just seeing lots and lots of their own gender at the crag, getting on

but many had not – and yet there was an immediate camaraderie

routes, taking the lead, being positive. The role model that will most

and excitement, which not even the North Wales rain and midges

inspire you is the woman who’s tying on next to you, at the base

could dispel – and there was plenty of both.

of the route you’d like to do, that makes you think: ‘I could do that’.

How can events like this make a difference? One of the main

During the WICM, women took over the crags, so that everywhere

ways to increase women’s participation in any activity is to provide

you looked, women were taking the lead, climbing routes from VD

positive role models. And inspiration is most likely to come from

to E7.

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Not only did the meet provide inspiration – in spades – but also

participation in climbing, and while not a big club, we have a steady

a type of encouragement that is possibly unique to woman-only

stream of women climbers looking to join, who want to share their

events. The aim of the meet was to encourage every women to get

climbing with other women. This year, as well as WICM, we’ve seen

out to achieve their best at whatever level that might be. So we

the Women’s Trad Festival as part of the BMC’s Women Outdoors

had women doing their first trad leads, their first HVS, their first

week and of course, running for several years now, the Women’s

E1s, E3s and E5s. And whatever grade was involved, this created a

Climbing Symposium: the demand for women-only events seems to

supportive atmosphere that provided women with the space to push

be growing. What we all hope is that one day, they won’t be needed.

themselves a little – again quite an achievement during a week of less than perfect weather.

The Pinnacle Club was set up in 1921 to further women’s

www.mountainpromag.com

Forthcoming meet information can be found here: www.pinnacleclub.co.uk/meets/

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 17

INTERVIEW

taking

on the yu 18 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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INTERVIEW

Mark Hines recently became the first Brit to complete the 1000 mile Yukon Quest Trail; he speaks to Chantelle Kelly about frostbite, broken ribs and frozen beauty.

Can you tell me a bit about yourself?

My background is in exercise physiology and biomechanics, so I worked as a college lecturer for many years and am currently in the process of wrapping-up my PhD. I got into ultra-running in 2007 with a race in the Sahara desert. Since then I’ve raced in jungles, over mountains, and in the sub-Arctic and Arctic. The last two really captured my heart, so that’s the environment I’ve returned to the most.

This year you completed the 1000 mile Yukon Quest Trail and hauled a sled along the way – what can you tell us about it?

The Yukon Quest is the toughest sled dog race in the world, according to the mushers who have raced this and the Iditarod. The trail runs for 1000 miles between Fairbanks, Alaska and Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory, Canada. Winter conditions mean that rivers and lakes are frozen over, allowing easy passage when the ice freezes flat. Bad ice in one section added a fifth mountain range to the standard four this year.

My intention was to sled-haul the whole trail on foot, beginning a week ahead of the dogs and having them pass me a few days later.

In all it took me 39 days to cover the whole distance. As for the Yukon itself, for me it is a winter paradise, nestled in the sub-Arctic and Arctic of Canada’s frozen north. The Yukon covers an area almost the size of Spain, yet is home to fewer than 35,000 people, of which about 25,000 live in Whitehorse. The rest are spread out in small towns, villages and isolated homesteads. It is one of the world’s last true wildernesses, and it is breathtakingly beautiful.

Why did you take on the challenge?

There is a 430 mile foot race along the Yukon Quest Trail, between Whitehorse and Dawson City on the Yukon side. I have finished that

ukon

race three times, and each time I wanted to know what I missed by not doing the whole trail. There was not an organised race but that was fine; I wanted to do this by myself.

I have previously raced along the Iditarod Trail in Alaska, sledhauled on the sea ice north of Alaska, and spent time in the Scandinavian Arctic. I cannot say that I was full of confidence, but I had about 2000 miles of sled-hauling experience in this environment - so I felt I had at least seen the best and worst conditions and had some idea of what I could expect. More than anything, I fell in love with the Yukon on my first trip there and that has grown with each visit. I am only too keen for any excuse to get back out there in the winter.

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 19

INTERVIEW

Was being the first Brit to do this a motivation for you?

coldest spot of the trail. I left my hands exposed for longer than I

It is a nice thought, but it was not a motivation at all. To be out on

should have done, whilst putting away my camp and strapping on

the Yukon Quest Trail was a very individual, selfish indulgence,

my snowshoes. The temperature was approaching -40ºc and within

and it was for nobody but me. I know the German, Joachim, who

half an hour of moving along the trail I realised I had frostbite. Over

completed the route in 2010, as he and I finished the 430 mile race

the following two days I struggled with anything requiring finger

together the year before. Having spent time with him on the trail it

dexterity, such as removing my harness or accessing bags of food,

helped me gain some confidence, and there was an incentive that I

and that was the danger element – I was having problems with the

really did not want to fail where he had succeeded, probably more

basics of looking after myself.

for the embarrassment and indignity of the thing.

The next incident was just a ridiculous accident. I slipped on some ice just outside a door of a cabin 350 miles from the end. I

Just how bad does the weather get?

fell backwards, my back slamming into a tree trunk - resulting in a

The weather made progress tough because it was relatively warm.

few broken ribs. The position of the breaks meant I was in danger

Perfect conditions for sled-hauling are around -30 to -35ºc, the

of damaging internal organs if I fell again. I spent a day at the cabin

trail is firm and the sled glides effortlessly across it. This year it

to help rule out any serious internal injuries. It took two nights to

was rarely below -20ºc, so the trail softened, causing the sled to

reach a homestead further along the trail; I was unable to climb into

digin - so it needed to be ploughed through, which causes your feet

my tent, so I built thick spruce mattresses and braced myself against

to sink deep into the trail. It meant the sled-hauling was far more

tree trunks.

exhausting than I had previously experienced.

Aside from the generally unhelpful weather throughout, there

Can you tell us about the wildlife you saw on the route?

was a night and half a day of snowfall, where the trail became so

I saw arctic owls, moose, caribou, a wolf and plenty of hares and

incredibly soft that I was only managing a few hundred metres

squirrels. I saw thousands of animal tracks; in one section I counted

before resting. I had to collapse down onto my knees a few times to

15 sets. There were some very big wolves around and there were

get my breath back. That was tough.

signs of wolverines and lynxes too. Perhaps the most alarming were two sets of mountain lion prints.

What about ‘why am I doing this’ moments? Anything that stopped you in your tracks?

What was the most memorable moment of the trip?

I had two serious situations on the trail, and both nearly spelled

That is a tough one because there were so many great moments.

the end of the expedition. The first occurred one morning, having

Perhaps, overall, it was my last night out on the trail. I set up my

just descended from the third mountain range and whilst in the

camp overlooking a frozen lake, bordered with mountains on the far

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INTERVIEW

Ultra-running is a great way to see a lot of an area in a relatively short amount of time. Everyone should have a hobby. side. It was the first night where I made fires, and I sat outside for a few hours enjoying the view, drinking some ‘Spirit Dog’ – a distilled beer given to me by a friend – and reflected on all the great times I’d had.

You have also completed the Yukon Arctic Ultra and the Marathon de Sables - what drives you to take on these tough, endurance races?

Everyone should have a hobby. I signed up for the Marathon des Sables after seeing a TV documentary with Ben Fogle. I had already spent some time in the Sahara with Egyptian friends, so I felt confident I could at least hike the distance. As an exercise physiologist, I considered myself qualified to train up to be a runner.

I was curious by the idea of such a challenge, and it seemed to be manageable. After that I went to the jungle, the Yukon, the Alps, Himalayas and so on. Ultra-running is a great way to see a lot of an area in a relatively short amount of time.

Out of all the races and challenges you’ve completed, which one was the toughest?

The toughest event was a 138 mile race in the Himalayas, called ‘La Ultra’. That was tough because it was at very high altitude, so oxygen levels were low and it was difficult just to exist in that environment, let alone to race continuously over 138 miles. I enjoyed that too though, and would happily return to it.

How did you feel when you reached the finish point?

I was thrilled to see the finish and it was wonderful to be met there by a few friends, but there is always some disappointment with the end of a great experience. All the great times, the wonder and excitement happened out on the trail, and the finish meant there was no trail left. I would have happily turned around and headed back, if only the winter and supplies could have lasted.

What’s your next adventure?

My next adventure is a solo stand-up paddleboarding expedition along the length of the Danube River. I want to show that it is possible to have a fantastic experience without having to go too far from home. I also want to try something different and spend an extended period on the water.

You can follow Mark’s adventures on his website www.markhines.org and follow him on Twitter @Mark_Hines. www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 21

profile

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Guiding light:

Spanish Highs

DAVID LINTERN SPENDS SOME TIME WITH RICHARD HARTLEY IN THE SPANISH MOUNTAINS

B

ack in February I returned to an old haunt of mine – the Alpujarra, in the south of Spain. I was there to meet

first day… much to the protestation of my back and lungs!

Richard is avowedly ‘old school’, preferring the relative

Richard Hartley, a mountain guide who’s been leading in

remoteness, wildness and long walk in’s of the Sierra Nevada,

the Alps since the late seventies, ditched the day job to go

over Alpine infrastructure. At the turn of the century, with over 20

full time professional in 1998 and promptly escaped to the Sierra

alpine seasons and 22 ascents of Mont Blanc under his belt, it was

Nevada to set up his guiding company Spanish Highs in 2000. A

time for pastures new. He is one of very few English guides here,

friend had attended courses with Richard, and then an expedition

and he argues that with mountains of between 2000-4000m, it’s

in Patagonia, and I liked the sound of his approach - perhaps best

perfectly pitched for those training for bigger challenges in the Alps

summed up in Richard’s own words, uttered as we walked in to the

or Greater Ranges. This is also his home, and as such he is full of

unmanned refuge that was to be our base for the next two days:

local knowledge on everything from the informal economy and the

“I like to explore really. Rock climbing is part of that,

political and environmental challenges faced by Spain, to the flora

mountaineering and walking is part of that, but I don’t think of

and fauna we encounter. What this amounts to on the ground is a

myself as a climber. What I like to do is solve problems in the

really immersive experience. Yes - I came away with my rusty rope

mountains.’’

skills finally knocked into some kind of working order… but also a

As someone who’s done plenty of exploring but is coming late to the climbing side of mountaineering, I liked what I was hearing, and Spanish Highs’ ‘Introduction to Alpinism’ course turned out to

real sense of what this area is about for those that live and work here.

Part of that has to do with the crew that Richard has assembled

be a natural fit. My friend and I were booked in for four days, usually

around him – he’s currently mentoring and apprenticing a new

made up of a crag day plus two or three days up high. Due to a very

generation of guides from Norway and Spain, helping to support

untypical weather front we’d brought with us from Scotland, Richard

their career development, as well as friends who’ve kept him

switched these around, opting to head up to about 2,500m on our

company on a number of expeditions to the Patagonian Ice Cap. We get to spend time over coffees, beers and tapas chatting to them

THE SPANISH HIGHS VIBE IS ABOUT AS FAR AWAY FROM A COMMERCIAL GUIDING STYLE AS IT’S POSSIBLE TO BE. www.mountainpromag.com

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about their mountain experience too. The new generation are all trained up to the equivalent of the UK’s ML or IML (in Spain, that means TD1 or TD2), but otherwise, the Spanish Highs vibe is about as far away from a commercial guiding style as it’s possible to be.

So, what of the course itself? First up, we cover the basics of glacier travel and moving together on a rope. For our group, we begin at the beginning - tying in on a figure 8, taking coils, and tying off, including a knot that’s eluded me until now – the Alpine Butterfly. Richard’s methodology extends to his advice to wear a sling and crab diagonally over one shoulder. Clipping in to this as well as a waist harness means the wearer is less likely to end up head down in a crevasse fall. As we move over sloping ground on a rope of three the following morning, we each take it in turns to be OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 23

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PROFILE

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05/10/2016 10:50

the ‘random faller’. This is an excellent confidence boost, improving how we work together to arrest a slip as well as demonstrating the considerable friction on snow and ice just from packs and harnesses.

In what became increasingly harsh conditions, gear is then placed, moved around and then cleared on simple gully climbs with plenty of spiny granite to hang slings from, before covering the use of Italian hitches and basic haul systems higher up. Once over the top and out of the worst of the hoolie, we look at snow belays using both dead men and axe anchors. The crag day that follows serves to consolidate a lot of this information in less hurried and much more benign conditions, as well as institute some good scrambling advice: protection on the move using direct and friction belays, the use of natural features, getting one’s eye in on good stances and belay positions, plus a host of different scenarios both talked through in theory and then practised in the flesh. We finish off with prusik loops and more crevasse rescue learning… albeit practised on a warm, dry cliff rather than a cold, wet crevasse.

None of this was particularly new ground for me, but it was a comprehensive (and much needed) recap from a superbly relaxed and assured teacher. Richard plainly doesn’t have anything to prove, and that’s the safest pair of hands to put yourself in. I also think it’d be pretty impossible for anyone not to be infected by his lust for life and passion for the area.

Spanish Highs offer everything from walking, trekking, Via Ferrata, scrambling and climbing, winter mountaineering, snowshoeing and ski touring, to big multi week Expeditions in South America. It’s a small business, which also employs local people and is based in Lanjaron. Based on my short time in these stunning, out of the way mountains, I can’t recommend them highly enough.

For more information and to book a course, see www.spanishhighs.co.uk

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feature

Ice Station

Halley

Michal Krzysztofowicz looks back over two winter seasons, working for British Antarctic Survey.

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A rarely if ever visited part of the Brunt Ice Shelf, which is to the South West of the Halley VI Station, where Precious Bay meets the Hinge Zone. From looking at maps and satellite imagery as well as aerial photograph, this seemed like an interesting area. We came across a number of very interesting features.

Here, Mat, the Field Guide, is standing on the massive patch of hard blue ice, which may have been created as a meltpool.

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 27

feature

H

ow did I even get here? I remember sitting at home one evening as a teenager, watching a TV programme about a Polish polar explorer Marek Kamiński making a solo unsupported journey on foot from Berkner Island to the

South Pole, after having made the unsupported expedition with Wojtek Moskal to the North Pole earlier that year. And I remember thinking: I wish I could go there. From that point on, Antarctica became the ultimate dream. I read everything I could lay my hands on about it, polar exploration, great explorers like Shackleton, Scott, Nansen, Amundsen and others. I started making plans.

I have always been an outdoor person, interested in mountaineering, sailing, and scuba diving. My professional life, however, revolved around IT. I was reasonably good at it, to the point that it seemed a big decision to abandon it and start from scratch, pursuing another career in the hopes of going South.

In 2013 I stumbled upon a job advertisement for the Data Manager position on the British Antarctic Survey’s website, to winter at Halley. This was my chance! I finished the online application form on a Tuesday night at 4am, just before the deadline. It turned out to be a turning point in my life. I was invited for an interview at Cambridge and was later offered the job. I found myself giving notice to my then current employer with whom I’d been working for over nine years. I still couldn’t believe it, but my dream was coming true.

I am now in the middle of my second winter at Halley Research Station, Antarctica — my first one having taken place between December 2013 and March 2015. If all goes to plan I should be heading back home in March 2017. I can categorically and without a shadow of a doubt say that wintering here has been the best experience of my life.

Why are we here?

The primary reason for the existence of any Antarctic station is scientific research. Halley Station is located on the Brunt Ice Shelf, currently at 75°26’S 26°16’W. This is the sixth iteration of the base since 1956.

There are several communication systems in place at Halley to keep the wintering team in touch with the outside world. The primary link is the VSAT (Satellite) connection via a hub in London to BAS Headquarters in Cambridge, and which provides the connectivity to the BAS Network and the Internet, as well as VoIP phones. The satellite dish is inside the dome visible to the left hand side of the image.

The short range comms within the Halley perimeter and between the station and vehicles is provided using the Marine VHF radios, some of which are stationary and some are mobile handset. For longer reach radio communications (with aircraft and field parties) we use the HF radios with two dipole antennas oriented North-South and East-West (visible on the picture in the centre). Additionally, there’s an Aero VHF radio in the Comms Office for short range communications with the aircraft.

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Many experiments currently run at Halley, roughly grouped into: Meteorology and Ozone observations, Chemistry and Physics of the atmosphere and Space Weather.

Additionally there are a number of field activities further away from the base. Some are within reach of a snow vehicle (to service remote automatic weather stations or GPS monitoring sites on the Brunt Ice Shelf), while others require an aircraft (e.g. to service remote GPS units in Theron and Shackleton Mountains or collect rock samples in the Heimefrontfjella Mountains).

What do we do?

Halley is a very isolated place, especially in the winter season, which is nine months long - March till December. One of ‘the’ missing properties of the base is that it sits on top of a moving ice shelf, drifting with the ice by around 1.3 metres every day towards the west. We’re also continually buried by snow - on average two metres per year.

The summer season is frantic with activity. We get two or three resupply visits by ship, each requiring all hands to help with moving cargo between the ship and the base; do all required maintenance work on the base infrastructure, deploy new or upgrade existing scientific instruments and experiments, run field activities servicing remote automatic weather stations, GPS and magnetometer sites (some of which as far south as 86°), run field training trips and finally hand over to the incoming wintering crew. There’s hardly any downtime, and little or no personal space, as the base hosts upwards of 60 personnel. In these conditions, time flies, and everyone is under pressure to complete the jobs they came to do. We only have a very limited time window, about 10-12 weeks of relatively good weather between the first and the last ship’s call.

Winter season is a different beast altogether. Time slows to a crawl, the base feels more spacious, with only the lucky thirteen staying here. To retain our sanity and provide extra field and survival training, it has been a long BAS tradition to organise winter trips. These are ran by the Field Guide (or ZFGA as we call them) who takes two or three members of the team at the time away from station, for a week of camping fun at one of many interesting locations on the Ice Shelf. There are opportunities to go towards the Hinge Zone (the area where the Ice Shelf — a 150-350m thick sheet of ice floating on the ocean — connects to the Antarctic continent, and hinges up and down with the ocean tides) and try to find the

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feature

One of the longest scientific data set from Hally is the meteorological record. A lot has changed since 1956 with regards to how the observations are conducted, with parameters like temperature, humidity, atmospheric pressure, wind speed and direction, visibility, solar radiation and others measured continuously by automatic instruments. However, to ensure that all those instruments are correctly calibrated and still indicate correct values, every day a series of manual readings are taken as well.

I think being here has changed me, my outlook on life, and my perception of what’s important.

observations, fixing anything that gets broken, ensuring there’s electricity, heat, water, food, the access to the Internet and that we’re all in good health.

The single most important event for any wintering Antarctic station is Midwinter Day, which is celebrated by the whole Antarctic community. Stations send midwinter e-postcards to each other, and team members also follow the BAS tradition of winter gift making. At

route an incredibly crevassed area towards the mainland; or to go to

the beginning of winter, we each pick a name out of a hat to find out

the coast, abseil 30m down off the edge of the ice shelf and spend

whom to make a gift for. The standard of gifts is pretty amazing - it’s

some time with thousands of Emperor Penguins and explore the

one of those moments where we realise how many hidden talents

sea ice; or go to McDonald’s Rumples, which is another incredibly

people have.

crevassed area where the Ice Shelf is grounded on underwater

After Midwinter celebrations it’s back to work for everyone. The

rocks, slowing down its drift and breaking up, creating endless

base slows down even more - with Midwinter gone the next big

opportunities for abseiling, ice climbing and exploring.

things to look forward to are the Sun-Up (the first sunrise after

Within the next couple of months, the light starts fading and

winter) in August, the launch of the second round of winter trips at

before we know it, the darkness descends - at first only for the

the end of September, and the arrival of the first aircraft with some

nights, but then the sun sets for the final time before winter around

new people and fresh fruit in November.

the 1st of May, and shortly after Halley is engulfed in perpetual darkness for 103 days.

A new task this winter is the monthly GPS and ground penetrating radar (GPR) survey of a crack in the ice. In 2014, a chasm whose tip

Our job is to keep the station running, making sure scientific

was located some 13km southeast of the station, after decades of

experiments are running correctly, conducting the meteorological

being dormant, started opening. This caused some concern at BAS,

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and a decision was made to relocate the station some 25km east, to

although it can sometimes be challenging to be confined to such a

position it on the safe side of the crack, closer to the mainland. The

featureless landscape for so long, the opportunities are endless. The

actual relocation will take place over the next two summer seasons.

saying “you get out of it as much as you put in” is a bit of a cliché,

Even though the relocation came sooner than expected, the station

but nowhere is it more true than here.

is designed to move - the main modules are supported on hydraulic legs, each equipped with a giant ski to allow them to be towed.

All work and no play?

What’s next?

I’m right in the middle of my second winter at Halley. By the time you read this, the sun will have risen again and the first aircraft,

Many people use the opportunities that wintering in Antarctica

people and fruit will be just ten weeks away. We have a busy

creates to learn new skills, discover new talents, and do things

summer season ahead of us — probably even busier than usual.

that they don’t get a chance to do in the real world. We have art

It will be six more months before I return home, but deep inside

workshops and live music sessions. Quite a few people are into kite

I’m starting to feel like this is the beginning of the end for this

skiing as well as astronomy (we have two telescopes and the night

adventure. I’d like to come back to Antarctica, and I hope one day I

skies are simply amazing!). There are cooking and baking workshops

will. I think being here has changed me, my outlook on life, and my

and competitions. You can get your hands dirty servicing vehicles or

perception of what’s important. I have a head full of ideas for the

the generators. Some learn electronics or computer programming.

future. For now, however, I’ll be looking forward to going back to my

With so many skills people bring to the table, one can easily learn

family and friends, a holiday somewhere warm and lots of fresh fruit

amazing new things. My personal passion is photography and

and veg!

After a number of days with either no contrast or too much / not enough wind, we finally had a good kiting day. This is a self portrait, with the kite and the Halley Station in the background.

Winter season is a different beast altogether.

Time slows down, the base feels more spacious, with only the lucky thirteen staying here.

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feature When going to the field, the BAS Pyramid Tents provide shelter from the cold and serve as a comfortable home away from home (away from home). This is a two-man tent, made of Ventile (a very tightly woven cotton fabric). Once pitched, it can withstand heavy winds and provide safety and comfort for its occupants. The inside of the tent is lit up by the Tilly lamp. Also, a stove and a pot of hot water can be seen in the middle.

We left the UK on a commercial flight to Cape Town in early December to join the RRS Ernest Shackleton - the BAS ship which would take us to Antarctica. The cruise usually takes in the region of 15-16 days, however it all depends on the weather and the amount and thickness of sea ice.

This is one of the best shows of Southern Lights I’ve seen so far. The aurora suddenly intensified for about ten minutes or so, and patterns of brilliant green light, as well as some reds and yellows were changing rapidly all over the sky above our heads.

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At the end of the Antarctic Summer Season most organisations either completely cease their operation or significantly scale down. One of those organisations operating here is ALCI who provide logistics and air transport services for many bases. ALCI operate a number of aircraft, with the most iconic being the Basler Turbo BT-67 - a modernised version of the DC-3 and C-47. This week two of those aircraft came to Halley on their way from the Russian station Novolazarevskaya to Canada. They will make several more stops on the way, and their journey will take them about two weeks.

When Fridtjof Nansen planned his traverse of the Greenland ice cap in late XIX century, he rejected the complexity of a large expedition, planning instead to deploy a party of only six men. As the result of this, most of his equipment had to be designed from scratch. One of the bits of kit he designed is the iconic Nansen sledge.

The sledge is able to carry a load of up to 500kg, while coping with difficult and varied terrain: wind packed snow, ice, sastrugi or soft snow, as well as with cold temperatures. The sledge hasn’t really changed since the original design much and is still used today for all field activities in both the Arctic and Antarctica.

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land management

BEN NEVIS through the S e a s o n s

The John Muir Trust look after the highest mountain area in the country. Alison Austin shares her Ranger’s Diary

I

t feels like only yesterday that I wrote about springtime on

In June we welcomed two visitors from UNESCO who were

Ben Nevis. The summer has passed in a blur and it’s hard to

assessing the area for Global Geopark status. I was involved

believe we are already heading into autumn.

in meeting with them in Glen Nevis to talk about not only the

In late June I spent time with a few local schools and

amazing geology but the way the geology underpins our landscape

nurseries. It was great fun getting school children outside and

and wildlife. It’s a long process to achieve this accolade and the

enthused about our wild places with bug hunts, den building and

assessor will return and report back to an international committee.

storytelling as part of the Trust’s John Muir Award activities. It’s

Fingers crossed we can achieve a global recognition.

satisfying to see the enjoyment created and our hope is we’ll see

Our seasonal ranger Blair Fyffe returned to work with us again

some of these young people go on to protect places like Ben Nevis

this year. He hit the ground running leading talks to local walking

in the future.

groups, supporting the summer Active Schools programme and

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carrying out some basic maintenance on the paths - tricky when the paths are so busy. There are 20,000 visitors a month in the summer on Ben Nevis and around 15,000 visitors each month in Steall. We have a path maintenance contract with a local team who tend to carry out the more technical work during this period. We try to plan but there’s also a reactive element. As I write this we’ve just had large rock fall affecting the Steall path after a buttress on meall Cumhann collapsed. The work we will now do to make this safe again for the public highlights the need for ongoing support, as our path work is almost entirely funded by public donations.

Repair work is an ongoing theme. This summer we carried out some training with a new cohort of trainee volunteer rangers from the Nevis Landscape Partnership. This team has done some great work re-turfing damaged ground around fire pits in Glen Nevis. At last count we had around six ongoing fire pits. We leave one or two as we’ve found it’s inevitable that some people will continue to have fires, and it is better that new ground isn’t damaged. We will increasingly focus on sharing the principles of Leave No Trace of Fires. It’s a good opportunity to explain to people that dead wood is an essential part of the ecology and diversity of ancient woodland,

burned layers. A beautifully smooth, yellowish, egg shaped quartz

as it supports a myriad of fungi and invertebrates.

pebble that had been transported by someone in Iron Age times

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Scottish summer without some wet and

around 2000 years ago. These are fairly common finds in Iron Age

dreich days on the Ben and surrounding area. We planned and tried

and probably held no practical purpose. It’s believed that many

to run a work party in Glen Nevis to survey Mountain Ringlet and

of our ancestors, much like me, saw beauty in this tactile piece of

water vole but the weather made it almost impossible! Our hardy

natural art. It’s likely the last person to hold the pebble walked and

volunteers understood and got involved in some path work instead.

lived in Glen Nevis over 2000 years ago. It’s a powerful reminder

This piece of work has ended up having a really good impact – the

of the deep and enduring connection we have with the land and

volunteers created a route through some boggy ground around

how the land and habitats have been shaped and wrapped up with

the Steall ruin beyond Steall Falls. Two months on we are seeing a

human occupation over time.

once eroded area beginning to recover. I am always astounded by the capacity and speed of damaged ground to recover if given the

All about the Ben

chance.

On one of the better days, Blair managed to visit Coire Guisachan, high on the flanks of Ben Nevis, to survey some of the Mountain Ringlet transects. We keep an eye on this alpine species and so far the population is looking healthy.

▶︎

Over 100,000 people walk to the summit of the Ben – the UK’s highest

This year was also the last year of the North Face survey - a Nevis

point – every year.

Landscape Partnership project to survey and map rare alpine plant species in relatively inaccessible and unappealing locations on

40,000 enjoy the wild and rocky route through the Steall Gorge

the North Face of Ben Nevis. The survey has been a real success –

to the stunning Steall Ban waterfall. The Trust work to manage

helping to create a 3D map of the mountain, raise its public profile

visitor impact by maintaining the upper stretch of the Ben

and examine the impacts of climate change including identifying

Nevis summit path as well as the Steall Gorge trail. We collect

numerous populations of montane saxifrages and mousears as well

litter in collaboration with local organisations such as Friends

as rare alpine grasses.

of Nevis. One quarterly litter clearance on the summit of Nevis

I have finished the summer with a couple of days learning new skills on an archaeological dig at the vitrified fort of Dun Deardail in Glen Nevis. An organisation called AOC Archaeology is building up

filled 18 bin bags with rubbish left on the hill - 10 of them just banana skins (they can take years to degrade).

The Trust carries out regular wildlife and habitat surveys to

the story of occupation and destruction of the fort in the Iron Age.

inform their ecological restoration work. This includes deer

I was lucky (or perhaps not!) to spend 2 days kneeling in a trench

control so that native trees, and other habitats, can regenerate.

scraping away at numerous layers of occupation and destruction

As a result, they are seeing year on year seedling growth in

and helping uncover post holes, fire pits and sections of vitrified

the area. The Trust also works with neighbours and other land

wall. There were good finds including an iron knife blade and

managers in the Nevis Landscape Partnership to manage this

clothing ring, some stone tools and a quern stone. I also uncovered

special and popular area.

something the archaeologists called a manuport, below one of the

For more information, see www.johnmuirtrust.org

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 35

feature

36 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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Photography by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger

Perfect Teamwork Ralph Villiger retraces a famous adventure and claims his own Arctic first ascent

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 37

feature

I

n 1991 Robin Knox-Johnston teamed up with someone who was his equivalent in mountaineering, Chris Bonington.

Bonington may have lived too late to claim a first ascent of one of the 8000ers in the Himalayas, but he lead expeditions

that opened new routes, climbed some 8000ers, was the first Brit to climb the Eiger North Face. He also made it to celebrity status with his televised ascent of the Old Man of Hoy, a sea stack off the Orkney Islands.

The two wanted to sail on the famous Suhaili, Knox-Johnston’s boat on his solo circumnavigation, to Greenland to climb a mountain; a combined sailing-mountaineering expedition in the tradition of the great Bill Tilman. Their book about the expedition is an excellent read, with both contributing alternating chapters.

A constant topic was the knots. Both sailors and mountaineers consider themselves as the champions of rope work, which inevitably leads to some clashes. First, they made a test cruise to the Isle of Skye. Bonington got seasick and Knox-Johnston was tense during the climb, always worried about Suhaili swinging on her anchor.

In the summer, they sailed with a small crew to Kangerlussuaq Fjord in East Greenland, a remote stretch of the coast with breathtaking glaciers and mountains. The expedition went its way with some ups and downs. Back in the UK, they noticed that they had climbed the wrong peak. So, in 2005 they sailed to the Arctic again under the headline “Unfinished Business”. This time they used one of Knox-Johnston’s boats from his Clipper fleet. They were kept port bound in Isafjördur, Iceland, due to bad ice conditions. At least the boat found a new home in Isfjördur where, renamed as AuroraArktika, she still takes ornithologists, kayakers, divers, mountaineers and other adventurers to Hornstrandir, Jan Mayen, and Greenland’s east coast.

I only learnt about the second part of this famous team journey in June 2014, when I meet Siggi, the owner of Aurora-Arktika, in Isafjördur. I had just sailed my own vessel, Ntombifuti, from her winter berth just south of Reykjavik to the Westfjords. From there, Harald Fichtinger and I wanted to revisit Greenland ourselves, just like last year - but this time to Liverpool Land at 71°N, and the coast just north of Scoresby Sound.

I had found a picture of a mountain in a book. It was called the Kirken, just over 1000m, and was as yet unclimbed. In spring 2013, a British team had apparently passed up an attempt because of low temperatures and severity. Bonington chose their peak in a similar way. There’s still very little information available about these remote areas. An expedition is invariably based on scarce data. But that’s also the prime attraction. If you want properly mapped mountains, you are served just as well back home.

It’s worth saying that Harald (he assumed Bonington’s climbing responsibilities and called his knots by odd names) and I (the sailor, who knows the real names!) had unfinished business of our own. That last year, we had abandoned a great peak in southeast Greenland because of its brittle rock. At the time we consoled ourselves with a nice 13-pitch climb, but it wasn’t the same as a successful first ascent on a conspicuous mountain.

38 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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Looking back to the summit.

an expedition is invariably based on scarce data. but that’s also the prime attraction. if you want properly mapped mountains, you are served just as well back home.

The complete route

On the summit. First Ascent!

At 10pm on the glacier

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 39

feature

We arrived in Isafjördur on August 4. There was a lot to do:

mosquitoes imagined they’d have company.

Fuelling up, shopping, testing the dinghy and the outboarder, and so

The next day we headed for Kirken. Sadly, we had to approach

on. Our destination lay NNE, but the forecast for the next seven days

from its back, but the map showed a way through via a valley and

showed force 6-7. The boat is built for these conditions, but who

then a glacier. When we stood on the ridge that should have lead to

casts off to tack against force 7 in iceberg waters?

the summit, we noticed that Kirken lay more to the east, separated

After five days, conditions weakened, and we chanced it. Once

by another ridge. We are victims of a topographer - the peak is

we had Hornvik – Icelandic for Cape Horn – abeam, we hit 25kn

badly mapped. On the sea chart, the peak was shown in the south of

headwinds with 2-3m waves. The boat did fantastically well, the

Storefjord - definitely wrong. We cached our gear on the glacier, and

mountaineer less so. After another half day conditions improved,

returned to the boat.

but tacking still doubled our distance. We were now deep inside the

The topography was just as chaotic the following day, but we

arctic East Greenland current and temperatures dropped painfully.

found a snow gully that lead to the saddle between the two peaks

At one point, our radar detected an echo straight ahead, and with

of the double summit. Just before the saddle, we traversed into

only a cable away a gigantic 400m iceberg loomed out of the sea

the head wall and geared up for the climb, which was harder

fog. Chastened.

than expected (French grade 6b). Two holds broke, leading to

On the third day, the fog cleared and we sailed north with an

some adrenaline and a little bloodletting. But finally, the Austrian

unmatched view on port; of peaks, glaciers, and stranded icebergs

Bonington lead the party to the summit. It was perfect teamwork.

along the coast. We left Scoresby Sound to port and proceeded

I had brought us to the mountain, and Harald had lead us to the

along the scenic coastline of Liverpool Land, also discovered by

summit. And all this in the Arctic, with a crew of only two! After 16

William Scoresby jr. in 1822. He noticed a conspicuous peak, which

hours and a very refreshing bath in the glacier creek, we were back

he called Church Mount because of its resemblance to a church. And

on Ntombifuti, our luxurious base camp. Exhausted, hungry, and very

then our peak emerged from behind an island. It clearly stood out.

happy.

We only had a photo to go on, and had no idea how it would look in context. We were not disappointed at all.

A few sailors have told me that it is too risky to sail shorthanded

After a rest day, we lifted anchor and sailed to Seydisfjördur on Iceland’s east coast. Strangely, we hadn’t seen any wildlife except an Arctic fox and a pod of dolphins. The remainder of the expedition

at these latitudes. Leaving the boat alone in a bay to go on a climb

was a little low key. We even passed up a visit to Ittoqqortoormiit,

is probably nuts. But at last, we were able to moor at 6m deep, in

the only settlement this far north. But after getting to know the

firm sand on the north side of the mountain - completely protected

country and people of Greenland the previous year, our goal this

from wind, waves, and ice. Liverpool Land is slightly separated from

time was to experience the mountaineering on offer. We couldn’t

the Greenland ice cap, the origin of the katabatic winds, so for us

have succeeded in a better way. Maybe, in this respect, we were

the bay was just perfect. The scenery was very austere. Not even the

ahead of Knox-Johnston and Bonington.

Approach on the second day.

40 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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a personal tribute Our dreams can come true, if we have the courage to pursue them. For Ralph, this was the meaning of his life. And his dreams were of a unique kind: Exploring the unknown. He was an everyday pioneer and passion was the leitmotiv of everything he built. In this way, he lived each day of his life to its fullest.

Ralph left us shortly before turning 40, not looking a day over 30, but having lived a lifetimes worth of Earth’s experiences.

His romance with mountaineering led him to meet Harald Fichtinger – a seasoned mountain guide and an incredible ice climber, in 2008. Together they constructed expeditions that journeyed from sea to rock and rock to ice. Teamwork turned their dreams into reality and generated more dreams to choose from. The smiles on their faces each time they returned will stay with me forever. They felt the breeze of pure freedom and discovery while many of us will only read about it.

Hemingway said that if two people love each other then there can be no happy ending to it. He is right so what counts is how and how much we truly live before that point.

Marie Petit

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 41

PAST MASTERS

The approach Vertebrate Publishing share an extract from H.W. Tilman’s When Men and Mountains Meet, also reviewed on page 11 of this issue.

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PAST MASTERS

I

reached Darjeeling on 5 April 1939 to collect my Sherpas.

Owing to the many expeditions in the field that year, all of which had bespoken their porters early, good men were hard to come by. There were two German parties, an American party

bound for K2, a Polish party going to Nanda Devi East (which they climbed), and Shipton’s Karakoram party. Under the Hitler regime German mountaineers were extremely active in the Himalaya. They spent a lot of time and money and lost many climbers and porters, sometimes through bad luck, more often, perhaps, through bad judgment. To lose porters is a heinous offence, and, in my opinion, their use of an aeroplane for dropping stores to their camps on Nanga Parbat deserved a place in the same category.

Our centre of operations was a long way from the starting point.

The route led through villages where porters were an unknown quantity, into a region wWhere we could obtain nothing once we had arrived. I therefore had to cut to a minimum the number of

On the wireless came news of the Italian invasion of Albania and the mobilisation of the Italian fleet. I felt I ought to be going the other way, but I hardened my heart and arranged to leave on the 11th.

mouths to be fed. I took three of the few porters available: Wangdi Norbu, an oldish but very capable and experienced man, who had been to Kamet with Smythe and also to Mount Everest in 1933;

alluvial, light and sandy.

For the next two days we packed our stuff into suitable loads,

Nukku Sherpa, a young and very active porter, who had been with us

bought rice and some oddments in Tezpur, and collected 600 silver

in the Karakoram in 1937 and to Mount Everest in 1936 and 1938;

rupees for paying the local porters. One evening we went down to

Thundu, a dark horse, with no major expeditions to his credit, but

the Bhareli river to fish. It was a magnificent stretch of water whose

recommended by the other two.

sources I hoped soon to see far to the north in the glaciers of Gori

In 1939 the Himalayan Club instituted a system of grading

Chen. Across the river was the Forest Reserve, the home of elephant

porters. The graded men were to be called ‘Tigers’, a name which

and rhinoceros. In the north lay the heavily forested foothills, the

is not very suitable but one which has stuck owing to having been

territory of the Miji Aka who, according to Lightfoot, had not yet

used of the 1924 Mount Everest porters who went highest. Certainly

entirely given up raiding the plains for slaves.

there are two qualities which the Sherpa shares with the tiger,

On the wireless came news of the Italian invasion of Albania and

strength and courage, but he is not a fighting man like his compatriot

the mobilisation of the Italian fleet. I felt I ought to be going the

the Ghurka. The chosen men, the choice being based on the

other way, but I hardened my heart and arranged to leave on the

recommendation of leaders of expeditions, had a badge of a tiger’s

11th. Lightfoot promised to send a runner if war started.

head and were entitled to eight annas a day more than other porters

Two bullock carts left early with our fifteen loads for the camping

for work above the snowline. In 1939 there were a dozen of them, of

ground, known as Tiger Flat, at the edge of the plains and the

whom Wangdi was one.

beginning of the foothills, twenty-five miles away. There we were to

Travelling by rail from Silliguri on the eastern Bengal line we

pick up twenty-five men of Lightfoot’s porter corps, Nepalese, whom

reached Rangapara on the north side of the Brahmaputra Valley on 8

he was good enough to lend. The extra ten were for carrying food for

April where we were met by Capt. Lightfoot, the Political Officer, and

the others because the country over which we had to travel for the

taken to Charduar by car. Charduar is a small post on the Inner Line

first five marches is uninhabited at this season. We left after lunch in

consisting only of the Political Officer’s bungalow and a few native

a car which took us as far as the Belsiri river which was unbridged.

houses and shops. A detachment of the Assam Rifles is stationed

Farewells were said, we took to our feet, and once more turned our

at Lokra on the Bhareli river two miles away, but the nearest place

backs on the civilised world.

of any importance is Tezpur on the Brahmaputra, twenty-one miles away by an earth road. The banks of the great river for thirty miles back are flat and covered with tea gardens and rice fields. It is less than 400 ft. above sea-level here; the climate, except in the short winter season, is hot and steamy, and the rainfall about 100 in.

Beyond the last tea garden to the north is the beginning of the dense forest running up into the hills. Presumably the forest at one time extended farther south until cleared to make room for tea gardens; for it is upon the ‘red bank’, which was old forest land, that most of the gardens are planted. Very few, and those inferior, are found on the grass land near the Brahmaputra where the soil is

44 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

When Men and Mountains Meet by H.W. Tilman is published by Vertebrate and is available here: http://bit.ly/1TXUOtr

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mountain heritage

Himalayan

big wall

Photos: Joe Tasker, both taken on the 1976 West Wall expedition.

46 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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Nicole Macgregor of the Mountain Heritage Trust looks at the British ascents of Changabang.

A

fter the 1950s and 1960s, when all the 8000m peaks had been summited, the focus turned to harder routes up these mountains. Some aimed for the South West Face of Everest and Annapurna South Face. For others however,

the challenge of summiting an unclimbed peak still remained most important.

Changabang, aka the Shining Mountain, is based in the Garhwal Himalaya in India and is 6864m high. Compared to other

“Dawn, a beautiful dawn - like the morning of life: no cloud and no wind and a lot of big mountains and some cold.

Where on earth are my toes?”

Himalayan peaks it would appear to be quite small. Don’t let this fool you - Changabang may be smaller than its neighbours but

Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker summited Changabang via

it is a formidable peak, with sheer rock faces and steep ridges.

the West Wall on the 15th October 1976. Boardman writes in

Changabang is a Himalayan big wall.

The First Ascent:

The Shining Mountain about not wanting to leave the summit. It appeared to be a mixture of dreading the descent, but also a feeling of being omniscient, “above the world”. The pair had to descend,

Led by Sir Chris Bonington (GB) and Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu (India),

and quickly, to avoid a storm approaching from Tibet. They stayed on

the team summited Changabang on the 4th June 1974. The other

the summit for half an hour until the snow started falling.

members of the team consisted of British climbers Martin Boysen, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston, and Indian mountaineer Chewang

The Direct South Face:

Tachei.

In 1976 the South West Ridge was climbed by a Japanese team in

The approach almost took as long as the climb itself. The team

a 33 day effort, and this was also the year that the West Wall was

walked 10 days from a roadside village named Lata to Base Camp

climbed by Boardman and Tasker. The next available unclimbed face

due to some trouble with the shepherds and porters. The ascent

was the South Face, climbed direct.

from Base Camp took 13 days via the South East Face, which then led to the East Ridge and to the summit.

Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu, also known as Ballu wrote the following in Changabang (Pub. Heinemann, 1975) about the day they summited the mountain: “Dawn, a beautiful dawn - like the morning of life: no cloud and no

The 1978 team consisted of Polish climbers Wojciech Kurtyka and Krzysztof Żurek, British climber Alex MacIntyre, and American/British climber John Porter. They summited on the 27th September 1978.

Their route via the South Face has not seen a repeat ascent for 40 years. It may have been the luck of the weather, 11 days without a storm, or maybe it is because the route is still a full Himalayan

wind and a lot of big mountains and some cold. Where on earth are

experience that requires portaledges or hammocks alongside full

my toes?”

alpine and technical rock equipment.

At this point on the 4th June the team had been watching Chris Bonington tackle a steep ice bulge. It was a relief for the team to

The North Face:

follow Chris up this section of the route into the early morning sun.

In 1997 Andy Cave, Brendan Murphy, Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad

Chris, Ballu and their team all arrived on the summit by 5am on

alongside Julie-Anne Clyma and Roger Payne separated into teams

the 4th June. There was a feeling of anti-climax and tension. All were

of two for an assault on the North Face. Mick and Steve made it to

looking towards to descent off the mountain.

the summit ridge but no further, Roger and Julie-Anne had been

The West Wall:

caught out in horrendous weather and retreated from the third ice field. On the 2nd June 1997 Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy

The place where the climbing partnership of Pete Boardman and Joe

successfully summited Changabang and gained the first ascent of

Tasker began. After climbing Dunagiri in 1975 Joe Tasker needed

the North Face.

a new project, and a new climbing partner as Dick Renshaw, his partner on Dunagiri, was still recovering from frostbite. Joe visited

Unfortunately, this success was marred by a terrible tragedy.

While descending the mountain Brendan Murphy was swept away

Pete at his BMC office and put his idea forward. Pete became the

by an avalanche. Changabang was one of Brendan’s great successes

other half of the two-man expedition.

as a mountaineer.

Abi Chard tells why the women’s “Outside the night roared. Winds were breaking around the great only Pinnacle Club still has role white rock of Changabang, and then retreating, drawing in their to breathplay. with anger, gathering their frustrated powers beyond the

Andy Perkins gave this tribute later, in High Magazine: “Climbed in pure alpine style, it epitomised his approach to mountaineering and the character traits demanded by such an outrageous route,

mountain, to return again through the darkness. And the mountain

climbed in weather conditions that could only be described as

rolled on. Only dreams of the summit helped us cling to its side.” Pete Boardman, The Shining Mountain, 1978

character building. It will remain as a monument to one of the finest

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mountaineers of the last decade.”

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 47

feature

A Bolivian odyssey

Jonatar Evaristo finds himself on Huayna Potosi.

48 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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Photo: Bruno Norarini

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 49

feature

T

he city of La Paz lies at 3,660m, at the bottom of a domeshaped valley in the west of Bolivia. At the foot of bare slopes the ground shines like steel, depleted under a hot sun. Downtown is tight, noisy, and busy. Everything

is happening on the streets - passing cars, people, animals, and overfilled fruit carts; it’s all scurry and chaos. Women squeeze oranges, cook exotic dishes, discuss and negotiate. Which of the two million inhabitants of this city does not seem to matter, it’s almost always a woman. Dressed for the dry cold, with a small shallow hat, crowned by a wavy dome, leveled exactly at the top of the head. For us, it’s a cacophony of novelty – for the residents, it’s just home.

The mountains are also present, but a long way distant from the shadows of the stone valley. Mount Illimani stands out at 6,462m.

Its delicacy seems so radical that even the clutter of the city is incapable of interfering with its silence.

About 30km to the northwest of La Paz, the bowl gives way to the Bolivian Altiplano. The local Aymara speaking inhabitants sound impossibly harsh to our ears. The land is arid, and the panoramas are vast. Llamas, flocks of sheep, and adobe houses with soot covered walls and thatched roofs, visible on the horizon long before we reach them. Here in the gaps in the map of Bolivia, the vehicles raise long plumes of thick orange dust that covers hair and lacquers the skin.

We climbed onboard an ancient orange bus. My travelling companions are Felipe, Willians, and Tiago, as well as a second group of adventurers who are like us, on board to take an iceclimbing course with the guides Maximo Kausch and Pedro Hauck.

If we have the skills and strength, and if we are accepted by the mountains, we’re also here to climb the Huayna Potosi, only the 80th highest in the Andes at 6,088m, but more than challenge enough for us.

We are drinking four litres of water a day to help with aclimatisation, so whenever someone needs to pee, we stop at the edge of the road. We drive towards a gloomy graveyard deep in the solitude of the Altiplano and stop again. Metal crucifixes hang above the graves, densely packed, bent and wrinkled from rust.

Every age is present, from adults to newborns. We learn that in 1962, the miners of Alto Milluni declared a hunger strike against the prison-like conditions inside the mines. They laboured under a right-wing military dictatorship. Two years later, troops bombed the camps of Trapiche and Viudani. The result was a massacre that virtually wiped out the small town. The cemetery is filled with

Photo: Felipe Giongo

those who did not survive the Milluni massacre, as well as from infirmities and illness brought about by the mines themselves, especially silicosis.

Some time later, we arrive at a lone house. The altimeter says 4,700m. Around us, as far as the eye can see, it all boils down to rock, ice, and snow white mountains. Maximo announces: “It is here, folks, the refuge!” as he threw a long bag of climbing equipment over his right shoulder. Maximo is from Argentina, but seems Brazilian. Our guide is 33 years old, and full of energy and humour.

His friend and partner, Pedro, has arms that reach to the middle of his thighs. I learn that their company, the Gente de Montanha 50 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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Photo: Angela Santos

Photo: Fabio Brito

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Photo: Bruno Norarini

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 51

feature (Mountain People) is three years old. From now on, for 24 hours a day, we were in their charge.

The house is small and dark and smells of dead fire. Inside, there

Over the next few days, we learn how to fall on the ice. Moving up to inclines of 40 degrees, it slowly becomes second nature, but it’s not easy at first. After an afternoon, our knees and elbows are

are three wooden bunk beds and two more rooms, equally dark.

half covered by bruises the size of onions. By the end of the course

We dump our gear and head out again, up a small hill between

we are choosing which side of the body to sleep on. After a few

the house and the road, to examine the glaciers. My impression is

sessions, we’re as ready as we’ll ever be. We get news of a good

that this place is devoid of life. As the evening progresses, the pale

forecast by sat phone, and pack for base camp.

landscape of the Huayna Potosi disappears little by little. We go

Piedras Blancas Refuge is built of vertical tin leaves, divided into

inside for warmth and food. While we eat, a transistor radio plays

two chambers - the kitchen and the bedroom, about 4 x 2m. One

Eddie Vedder.

corner is heated by a single gas stove. There are three structures in

Finally, the following morning, the drills began. We head up

total, sitting on the snow at 5,200m. We eat and drink hot tea, and

seemingly endless banks of scree, while the wind increases and

I feel sick and hot in my stomach. I have no appetite, but I know I’ll

raises spirals of dust in front and behind. We step, lift our legs,

need the strength for the following morning.

compress the mobile stone, slide back. We repeat this simple,

Maximo asked: “Awake?” But I’d barely slept. All night I’d felt filled

ineffective walk ad nauseam, until at last we reach the glacier.

with a peculiar uncertainty, a cul-de-sac. I looked at Maximo against

Around us, as far as the eye can see, it all boils down to rock, ice, and snow white mountains.

52 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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the light and said: “My stomach hurts - I don’t think I should go with

climbed up to 70-degree ice. My hands started to freeze, affecting

you.” He responded curtly: “It’s psychological. Get up!”

the grip on my axe. At points, three inches of ice hung from our

I wasn’t the only one suffering from the altitude. Billy looked

double boots. We continued in silence, myself behind Billy and the

feverish, like a small, scared boy. After being similarly cajoled, he

guide, all the while meditating on the snow and the unspoken need

forced himself into double boots, down jacket, drank hot tea and

to move forward.

went out, while I stayed locked inside my sleeping bag. I have never

The sun still hadn’t risen yet, but the sky over the mountains

seen a more determined man: “We are all acclimatised,” Pedro said.

began to be bathed in an orange kerosene light. It seemed that Billy

“There is no excuse not to go!” Every word of it sounded sharp and

and I were not in any way at ease with each other, but now I felt that

clear. I had no choice. I felt both relief and tension.

I could trust him. As we walked, he candidly glanced back at me.

It felt like an eternity, getting dressed, putting on my boots,

This place, both in body and mind, was entirely new to me – I felt

crampons, helmet, and gloves. I dragged myself out into the snow,

adrift, without direction. It was a surreal moment. The dawn light,

well behind Billy and the Bolivian guide, who lit the way ahead

virgin, transparent and blindingly bright, was now just passing over

with the flashlight. We stopped many times to rest, but Billy kept a

the top of the hills. I looked straight up to the sky, and with a slow

progressive and steady pace over the snow.

look around the submerged landscape I realised that I was just a few

During the next two hours, we crossed several crevasses and

metres from the summit. I heard my lungs sucking in cold air and my tired feet dragging, and found myself at the top of Huayna Potosi.

Photo: Angela Santos

That moment was so full I could not fully comprehend it, but only thank God. A single cold tear broke out and stung my face, freezing in geometric patterns.

For more information on the course providers, see www.gentedemontanha.com

Photo: Maximo Kausch

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 53

GEAR GUIDE

3-4 Season Boots

for him

Dan Aspel and Lucy Wallace put the best crampon compatible all rounders to the test.

La Sportiva Trango Alp EVO GTX £270 The versatility of the Trango Alp is what’s so appealing: it could feasibly be used for winter hillwalking, general mountaineering, alpine climbing and even summer scrambling - making it a great catch-all purchase for those that make a living in the more vertical parts of the outdoors. The performance fit, typical to La Sportiva, is fairly narrow and I did find them a little tight and restrictive for more walkingcentric trips, however that also translates into great feel on the rock and the expansive rand and neat toe (the first lace hook is low profile and has no metal eye) allows for plenty of boot to wedge into cracks. The heel lip is great for a lightweight crampon too, whilst a Gore-Tex liner provides waterproofing. The sole has a nice, tight climbing zone at the tip, while the lugs and decent heel brake communicated good grip during my testing. The 790g weight rating is reasonable for its abilities, while the look and design of the upper is both comfy, sturdy and (for want of a better word)... sexy. A great choice for alpine work. ■ www.sportiva.com

Scarpa SL Activ £245 Having spent much of the last five years in a pair of Scarpa’s 3-season Delta GTX Activ boots, I was very excited to try the SL Activ. With its classic styling and all-leather construction it’s very much aimed at year-round walking than more challenging rock or ice routes, and that’s borne out in the truly superb in nta level of comfort. The build communicates a great rolling action when in use, www.mou making striding long distances feel like a very natural movement - and while the SL is generally quite burly and less precise than some competitors when it comes to rougher terrain it achieves a level of cushioned support and protection at the ankle, heel and throughout the whole foot that few others can match. My feet certainly felt less strained and stressed after a full day in the SLs. The 860g weight rating, modest rand and unquestionable Vibram Biometric sole fit with this experience. If year-round comfort and dependability are your priorities the SL is so, so easy to recommend. ■ www.scarpa.co.uk pr om ag.c om

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Aku Superalp GTX £200 Depending on the size, the Superalp comes in at around 700g, which is mighty impressive in the world of 3-4 season boots. That’s despite offering all of the features you’d expect in this field: a big rubber rand, Gore-Tex lining, a Vibram sole, stiffness enough for C1 crampon compatibility and so on. The upper is suede mixed with a synthetic mesh dubbed Air 8000, which is particularly lauded for its breathability. When you add this to the low weight rating the result is a boot that I found effective for warmer conditions despite its entry-level winter credentials. Comfort-wise the build of the ankle support and tongue are very protective, but don’t quite get top marks for the kind of cosseting material that a small increase in price can get you – despite this, it’s still a perfectly comfortable boot. If your adventures lean more towards longer distances in mixed terrain they’re well worth considering.

■ www.aku.it

np rom ag.com

Asolo Power Matic 200 GV £203.67 BEST BUY i ta www.moun

At 785g the Power Matic is a relatively light boot, and also one that feels much more like a 3-season option, despite being capable of carrying a C1 crampon. That’s because it lacks any kind of rand around its upper and also feels slightly less stiff in both the hand and on the foot than many other 3-4 season alternatives. The result is a really pleasing compromise that feels at home on warmer, brighter hills but remains capable of tackling snow and ice as well. The full-leather upper is solid and wellcushioned, although a little less supple and luxurious than more expensive options (but only barely), whilst the various shock absorption tweaks and the generous support in the tongue and ankle make for a boot that you can to some extent simply put on and forget about. The Vibram sole is perfectly capable and the heel brake is decent too. It’s genuinely very difficult to nitpick the Power Matic: with the lack of rand or sizeable toe-box being perhaps the only complaints. Overall it’s a superb choice for the price. ■ www.asolo.com

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OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 55

WIN A HOLIDAY FOR TWO PERSONS FOR ONE WEEK AT THE BRAND NEW GENEPY APARTMENT-HOTEL

Chamonix Mont-Blanc Valley

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN

The Chamonix Valley is legendary in wintersports circles. The first Winter Olympics were held here in 1924 and mountain enthusiasts have been pioneering snowsports in the resort ever since. Its snow sure reputation and wide variety of terrain for families and freeriders alike make the ski area a treat from December to May. Off the slopes, Chamonix is a vibrant town. The pedestrianised centre offers a wonderful selection of attractive shops and terrace cafes ; if you enjoy dining out, you will be spoilt by the gastronomic choice, from cheesy specialties to Michelin star arestaurants! The Chamonix Valley also caters for après ski with numerous facilities to include indoor and outdoor ice rinks, climbing walls, cinema, swimming pools, a boarder coaster luge and of course… a thriving night life.

Prize for 2 persons includes: ■ 7 nights in a two room apartment at the 3* Genepy Apart-hotel ■ Return transport from Geneva Airport to Chamonix ■ 6 day lift passes for the Chamonix Valley ■ 6 days Ski or Snowboard equipment hire ■ Prize value €2400 euros ■ Prize to be taken winter 2017-18, excluding school holiday dates.

Win a holiday for two persons for one week at the brand new Genepy Apartment-hotel. Located in the heart of Chamonix, this historic building, with its classic architectural features, has been completely renovated to offer ten beautifully furnished apartments, all enjoying private balconies or a private interior courtyard. Six of the apartments have Mont-Blanc views and four overlook the private courtyard. Le Génépy guests will enjoy made to measure hotel services by Mont-Blanc Collection, such as house-keeping and catering services. The grand opening of this new establishment will take place on 17th December 2016.

www.chamonix.com

GEAR GUIDE

3-4 Season Boots

for her

La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX £275

pr om ag.c om

First impressions: “this is a bit weird”. It’s an entirely leather free construction but these are far removed from trad plastic boots. The B2 sole is stiff, but with a supple seam free build, I was unsure of how much support to expect overall. However, an hour in to our first mountain together and I was in love. It wasn’t long before I was skipping EDITOR’S amongst boulders and scrambling merrily along ridges, reveling in a boot that is almost as light and grippy as an CHOICE approach shoe, but with the stiffness required for a year round mountain boot. The uppers are built from thermo injected plastic and waterproof fabric with a Gore-Tex liner that makes extra sure that water stays out. The tongue n i nta is a soft stretchy fabric that is extremely comfortable and low bulk. A rubber rand protects the join between the www.mou uppers and the outsole, a sturdy yet neat Vibram offering that grips gravel, rock and grass. The midsole is a TPU/EVA construction - rigid enough for a C2 crampon heel clip but with some flex in the toe. I tested the men’s/unisex version, available from a size 37 upwards so will fit most women and has a relatively slim fit. There is a women’s option available too, which starts at size 36. Weight approx. 720g per boot. ■ www.sportiva.com

Asolo Women’s Shiraz GV ML £185

Even lighter than the Asolo Shiraz, this Gore-Tex lined fabric and suede boot leans heavily on the Alpine side of the fence. There is a little more width than the Shiraz, but the boot is very adjustable. I really like the speedy lacing system that is easy to adapt for a precise fit that really hugs the foot thanks to the “Sock Fit XT” construction - with a stretch Schoeller tongue similar to the design of the Cube.

The rugged Vibram sole is good on mountainous terrain, feeling good on rocky edges and slabs. With a B1 rating it is stiff enough to take a C1 crampon.

Whilst not a full on winter mountaineering boot is a rugged yet lightweight model that will take you well in to the shoulder months. Weight 1140g pair.

■ www.scarpa.co.uk

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np rom ag.com

Scarpa R-Evo Pro GTX Women £224.99

I loved testing all the boots in this review, but for me these are the best all rounders - hitting price and technical know-how evenly. They are perfect for three and a bit seasons, and stiff enough for a walking (C1) crampon.

They are lightweight at 690g per size 8 boot but no corners have been cut with durability and strength. The Vibram sole grips rock and gravel and the generous full rand wraps and protects the boot from rough rock and bog. The uppers are made from a cushioned and supportive combination of Schoeller BEST BUY K-Tec and chunky suede. They are well padded and comfortable ai t www.moun around the ankle and the whole boot creates a stable home for the foot when walking with a big pack on uneven terrain. A Gore-Tex membrane keeps everything dry. I found these comfortable straight out of the box and wore them on a three-day expedition in the Trossachs. It’s the ideal general mountain boot, for scrambling, long days on the hill, and on the fringes of winter, when a fully insulated B2 boot would be heavier than necessary. ■ www.asolo.co.uk

Altberg Mallerstang £209.99 Altberg boots are based in Yorkshire, and the Mallerstang is well suited to the typical bog and heather bashing fun that the British mountains offer. The gorgeous 3mm leather should itself be enough to keep water out but nevertheless a breathable Sympatex bootee lining ensures that rain and snow don’t seep through. The outsole is a very chunky and somewhat heavy Vibram offering that grips slippery and wet terrain. The sole is more than stiff enough to take a flexible crampon and kicks in to snow really well. I’ve had my test pair for quite a while and I expect that they will last several years. I have found however that they are not as cushioned as I like for backpacking or multi day trips. I do love them for mountain rescue work, or the sort of hill days when I’m not sure where I’m going to end up. At these times I need a boot that can cope with anything. It’s a unisex design, but comes in a range of width fittings so there is an option that will fit most feet. Weight 884g each (size 9).

■ www.altberg.co.uk

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 57

GEAR GUIDE

Cutting Edge Dan Aspel and Lucy Wallace have been out testing their pick of new products Montane Alpine Pro Jacket (women’s) £330

La Sportiva Finale Rock Shoe £85 The new Finale is a foot friendly rock shoe, with a relaxed, flat shape and toe to ankle lacing which helps to adjust the fit. The lacing is very adaptive, and this was important for me when testing, as I could have sized down at least half a size further (my normal shoe size is 8, I tested a 7.5). What’s more, the shoe is unlined leather, so has stretched quite a bitnow with room for cosy socks on mountain routes (is this a fashion faux pas?). I have big feet for a lass, and was sent the men’s version, which is not wide at the front, but broad around the heel, with air space for me. The Finale has durable 5mm Vibram XS Edge rubber, and the stiffness gives a good edge.

The shoe is also flexible enough for moderate smearing, however, I feel there is a trade off between durability (which the Finale has in spades) and grip. The single loop at the heel is easy to pull on and off or clip to a harness.

Overall, a comfortable shoe that is great at the wall and on longer routes, especially on rock types where durable edges are helpful. LW ■ www.lasportiva.com

58 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

Montane know a thing or two about making waterproofs for the British climate and their eagerly anticipated partnership with Gore-Tex has brought about a ruck of new hardshells. For the women, the top of the range is the Alpine Pro, a lightweight Pro-Shell jacket with an excellent mountain friendly hood, including a wired brim and three-dimensional adjustability. I was lucky enough to get my mitts on an early release, and I’ve had it on extended test since February. It’s seen some big winter days in Scotland, has sheltered me through storms, and lived in my bag on the nice days. I really like its no nonsense design - with everything you could need, including pit zips, sealed, map sized torso pockets and chest pocket. At around 420g it’s pretty light for such a robust jacket. It’s easy to layer under and I always feel comfortable and protected. I do admit to being miffed that the top-end Endurance Pro option available to men will not be offered in women’s sizes, but in fact the Alpine Pro is an excellent all-rounder. I’ve got one complaint - the slim cuffs are somewhat fiddly to fit over bulky gloves. LW ■ www.montane.co.uk

Outdoor Research Stormtracker Sensor Gloves £60 Warm fingers and dexterity don’t usually go hand in hand in winter, but Outdoor Research are good at making low bulk, technical gloves for men and women.

The Stormtracker is a Windstopper soft shell glove with a soft goatskin palm. The design is tried and tested, and the latest incarnation for 2016 features touchscreen friendly Sensor technology. It’s beautifully cut, with a slender wrist with sleek zip closure, articulated fingers and a microfibre lining that is warm and quick drying.

Whilst not waterproof, they are an excellent choice for skiing and trekking in sub freezing temperatures and are nimble enough for fiddly tasks around camp. To explore their dexterity still further I even wrote this review in them (a tad warm). Oh yes and the Sensor works like a dream. LW ■ www.outdoorresearch.com

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GEAR GUIDE

Arc’teryx Acrux AR mountaineering boots £500

Lifestraw Steel personal water filter £47 Since 1994, Lifestraw’s filters have been helping NGOs and other bodies combat disease and lack of access to clean drinking water in the developing world - and outdoor professionals can benefit from this success too. The Steel is essentially a higher value upgrade of the standard model: carry this 160g, 21cm long shiny blue tube with you and you’ll be able to get prone and drink river, stream, puddle or lake water (anything non-saline) while straining out 99.9 per cent of water-borne bacteria, protozoa and even some chemicals such as chlorine, pesticides and fertilisers. The replaceable hollow fibre micro filter is claimed to last 1,000 litres while the carbon capsule (which aids the taste and assists the main filter) will last 100 litres. I’ve found it wondrously light, slim and easy to deploy. Obviously it’s not ideal in water-scarce environments - as it provides no storage - plus it’s also ineffective against viruses (bear that in mind if you’re anywhere with a risk of Hepatitis A). But as an ultralight alternative (or addition) to boiling, treating or zapping your water with UV it’s a strong and nicely styled choice. DA ■ www.lifestraw.com

At 980g each, the new, slender Acrux is class leading for a double boot. Add to this the relatively seamless design, built-in Gore-Tex gaiter, meaty rand, B3 rating, grippy, bespoke Vibram AR sole and minimalist styling… and you can begin to understand the £500 price tag for Arc’teryx’s latest revolution. I gave them a fairly brutal testing, wearing them as both an approach shoe from grassy trails at 1,700m (not their home ground) all the way up to snow and ice from 4,000m+ (bingo). I was surprised to suffer some quite severe friction and blistering on my right heel - something I’ve only found with a small sample of footwear brands - but this is a very user-specific gripe. Otherwise they were faultlessly warm, waterproof, rugged, nimble and effective at everything asked of them.

The fact that the inner bootie can be easily removed for drying and used as a camp/hut shoe was a great boon and the tidiness of the design once they’re fully zipped up was continually pleasing - with no loose laces or clutter to distract from applying and removing crampons. Innovative stuff. DA ■ www.arcteryx.com

Arc’teryx Alpha SV jacket £600 Tested alongside the Acrux AR boots, I was lucky enough to encounter some strong winds and both rain and snow storms above 4,000m whilst wearing the Alpha SV. Given that it’s essentially the showpiece item from a very prestigious brand (it was first released in 1998) you’d expect it to perform faultlessly… and it did. To the extent that - apart from the eyebrow-raising price tag - I cannot find a single fault with this jacket. Every aspect of a hardshell that can prove nigglesome has been conscientiously examined and designed accordingly - from the the protective and helmet-compatible (but easily and effectively cinched) hood to the tidy zips and cuff adjusters and the subtly positioned storage options. The pleasingly long cut and hard-wearing fabrics (Gore-Tex Pro married with a nylon dubbed N100p-X 3L) communicate a feeling of utter solidity, belied by its unobtrusive 495g weight rating, and while it’s perfectly viable to wear over a baselayer there’s also enough space within to both allow considerable layering in colder conditions. For mountaineers there’s nothing not to love here. What a shame it’s so exclusively priced. DA ■ www.arcteryx.com

Aquapac TrailProof phone case £14 Essentially a waterproof, translucent pouch, the TrailProof allows you to use and consult your smartphone in challenging outdoor conditions. Simply drop your device inside, press the ziplock strip shut and then fold over the hook and loop patch to close. You can view and touch the screen through the window and there’s a matching see-through section on the opposing side for your phone’s camera lens. Good points are that it’s sturdy, affordable, fits most/all models, is impossible to break and comes with a handy karabiner and two lashing points. Downsides are that its bulky, unsophisticated in styling and the camera window is unusably placed for my OnePlus 2. Personally I prefer the brand’s slicker clip-sealed £20/£25 Aquapac “waterproof phone case” (formerly “Whanganui”). I spent the last three years taking one on nearly every outdoor trip and although the clip mechanism did eventually break - it was slimmer and more pleasing in use. However, for the price the TrailProof remains a solid option for phone-based navigation and comms whatever the weather. DA ■ www.aquapac.net www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2015 | Mountain Pro 59

Tried & Tested

Chantelle Kelly chats to IFMGA guide James Thacker about ice, rock and the kit he trusts.

60 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2016

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TRIED AND TESTED

Can you tell us a bit about yourself?

I am an IFMGA Mountain Guide now based in Chamonix the vast majority of the time. My work is split between the seasons with a bias towards alpine climbing and rock climbing in the summer and off piste skiing and ice climbing in the winter. Before moving to the Alps I worked across the UK as an independent Mountaineering Instructor (MIC), having started my career in the outdoors working as “Storeman” at White Hall Centre in Derbyshire.

You climb a mix of rock and alpine routes throughout the year, do you have a preference?

For me the best thing about climbing and mountaineering is the variety and I like the flexibility of choosing the right activity for the prevailing conditions and my guests or clients. Being based in Chamonix there is a huge amount of choice and as an alpine centre plenty of opportunity to travel to different areas. No week is really the same and ensures there is little opportunity to get jaded, which is always a logical concern when your favourite activities are also your profession.

What’s your must-have piece of kit for a day of ice climbing?

A fine file! Sharp picks are essential for cascade ice climbing in the Alps, whether it’s axes or crampons, and I am constantly amazed that people are prepared to set out up ice routes with worn points. The activity can be exciting enough as it is.

What brands would you recommend for climbing equipment?

We are very lucky these days in that there are so many quality brands available to us in the UK. That combined with such a competitive market at the moment means that in many cases equipment is quite good value. I am sponsored by Edelrid and I am very grateful for their support. Their ice tools are very good, it has been great to contribute a small way to their

design, but they are perhaps not used as much as other brands in the UK. As a company Edelrid are very innovative, so it’s always interesting to see what’s new for the coming season. Ropes such as the Edelrid Flycatcher at 6.9mm are a specialist bit of kit for ice and alpine climbing, but really demonstrate how much rope technology has come on in recent years.

What’s your favourite location for climbing?

For pure rock climbing I love to return to the UK. We have such a strong traditional scene and the greatest variety of rock in Europe; it’s very simply hard to beat. The climbing on the Western Isles and Outer Hebrides in Scotland is fantastic, and I would encourage anybody to travel to these locations if ‘trad’ climbing is your thing. I also recently visited Fair Head in Northern Ireland for the first time and certainly want to go back to experience this amazing crag.

What rock climbing shoes do you use?

I have to admit to having a few pairs… Edelrid Cyclone and Typhoon, and La Sportiva Miura in various sizes. I have oversized pairs for long routes, but prefer a more technical shoe.

Out of all the ascents you’ve completed, which one is the most memorable for you?

It’s difficult to pick a stand out route as being the most memorable.

Increasingly, for me it’s more about the people that I am with rather than the pure climbing. But if I was forced to pick one route it would be the 1938 Route on the North Face of the Eiger. It’s an intimidating wall and you climb through much history, which weighs on the mind considerably. I climbed with Nick Wallis after a chance meeting in Chamonix. At that point we had never climbed together, although we knew each other socially. Everything came together and we shared the experience of climbing one of the most famous north faces in the Alps.

For more information about James and his guiding services, visit www.jamesthacker-mountaineering.co.uk and follow him on Twitter @jamesthacker www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2016 | Mountain Pro 61

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