FOR THOSE THAT WORK AND PLAY OUTDOORS
WWW.MOUNTAINPROMAG.COM JANUARY 2015
IN A QUIET PLACE:
THE UELI STECK INTERVIEW Kendal Special No place to Slip Ski Japan ■ REWILDING ■ BOULDERING ■ SKI TOUR SHOWCASE ■ SOFTSHELLS ■ ICE TOOLS
welcome
contributors
I’ve not long returned from Kendal Mountain Festival, where I saw a few films, missed many more, and managed to catch up with friends old and new. This issue, we’re lucky to be rammed to the rafters with a few items from the same roster. Claire Carter shares her view from inside the Festival Filmmaker’s Summit, alongside a round-up of the award-winning films, and Henry from SteepEdge shares his best-of-three bouldering films. Of note for me (and others) at KMF, was the honest and charming Redemption, which if nothing else is an indictment of digital media intruding into a young climber’s development at a critically unhelpful time, and Grand Prize winner Valley Uprising, which deftly links past and present climbing styles in Yosemite and beyond. While most were still sobering up on Sunday morning, I was also lucky enough to spend time with Ueli Steck. He’s clearly in reflective mood after a fairly definitive 2013.
I hope we managed to capture a little of that quietness in the full-length interview presented here. I missed KMF co-founder John Porter’s talk at Kendal, but we do have an extract from his exceptional biography of Alex Macintyre, One Day as a Tiger on page 32. Alongside Bradley Garret’s flawed but brilliant urban expose – Explore Everything Porter’s book is absolutely my read of the year. Of course, there’s the story of one of Britain’s most driven mountaineers, but also, as the author’s life weaves in and out, an autobiography of sorts, there’s a beautifully long range view on cold war era expedition logistics, the emergence of Alpine tactics in the greater ranges, and the development of the BMC alongside qualification requirements for outdoors professionals. There are also gripping tales from the mountains, set perfectly in a time and context before the internet and glasnost. Elsewhere this issue, we have one of the world’s top conservation photographers arguing the case for rewilding, one of Scotland’s most experienced instructors with winter safety essentials, and one of Wales’ finest reporting back from a slightly wacky ski season in Japan. Kit-wise we focus on ski touring, soft shells and a couple of versatile paired tools. As I write this, the first snows are starting to settle, and not before time. See you on the hill. David, Editor
Da vid
Will Nicolls is a mountaineering and ski instructor in North Wales. His company delivers bespoke climbing, scrambling and navigation courses. It also provides unique cliff camping experiences. Check www.gaiaadventures.co.uk for further information.
Claire Carter is a freelance writer based in Sheffield, near the Grit. Climbing, running, ski touring and aerial keep her out of the studio she shares with the landscape artist Tessa Lyons. Together they are experimenting with exploring landscape in print and ink. Claire is also the film officer for Kendal Mountain Festival; her objective is to support creativity, diversity and development in the adventure film industry.
Mountains have been a way of life for Tom Hutton for as long as he can remember, yet somehow he can never get enough. If he’s not out taking photos of them, or guiding among them then he’s in a cabin in Snowdonia writing about them. As a self-confessed kit destroyer, he’s more than qualified to join the Mountain Pro gear review team.
Peter Cairns is one of Europe’s leading wildlife and conservation photographers. Author of six books and co-founder of numerous conservation photography projects, including 2020VISION, Peter has a special interest in our relationship with the wild world. See more of his work at www.northshots.com.
Richard Bentley is one of Scotland’s best known MIC’s, well regarded for his knowledge of Ben Nevis in Winter, a provider for Winter ML training and assessment courses. He runs avalanche courses for the MCofS, provides winter safety lectures, is a ski patroller on Aonach Mor and often runs their back corrie off piste workshops. www.mountainmotion.co.uk.
Lucy Wallace is a mountain leader and wildlife guide based on the Isle of Arran on the West Coast of Scotland. I n her spare time she climbs, bikes and sea kayaks around her island paradise. When not watching otters and roaming the hills she edits the Gear Guide for Mountain Pro Magazine.
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 3
contents 32
6
News
18
Interview
NEWS INTERVIEW :UELI STECK BOOK REVIEWS KENDAL SPECIAL ROCK PROBLEM - 3 OF THE BEST BOULDERING FILMS REWILDING: A SPACE FOR NATURE ONE DAY AS A TIGER NO PLACE TO SLIP: WINTER MOUNTAINEERING BASICS NUTRITION: IAN CRAIG BIG IN JAPAN: A VERY UNUSUAL SKI SEASON GEAR REVIEW: SOFT SHELL GEAR REVIEW: SKI TOURING ESSENTIALS GEAR REVIEW: ICE TOOLS CUTTING EDGE TRIED AND TESTED
53
Tried & Tested
Gear Review: Softshells
46 42 Gear Review: Ski Touring Essentials
6 18 10 13 23 26 32 34 38 38 42 46 49 51 53
meet the team EDITOR: David Lintern GEAR EDITOR: Lucy Wallace e: lucy.wallace@targetpublishing.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Chantelle Kelly e: editorial@targetpublishing.com SUB EDITOR: Amy Robinson e: subeditor @targetpublishing.com GROUP SALES MANAGER: James Lloyd e: james.lloyd@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810069 SALES EXECUTIVE: Chris Kemp e: chris.kemp@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810083 DESIGN: Leann Boreham e: leann.Boreham@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810075 PRODUCTION: Hannah Wade e: hannah.wade@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810076 MARKETING MANAGER: Sarah Kenny e: sarah.kenny@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810091 MANAGING DIRECTOR: David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Some material may be speculative and/or not in agreement with current medical practice. Information in FSN is provided for professional education and debate and is not intended to be used by non-medically qualified readers as a substitute for, or basis of, medical treatment. Copyright of articles remains with individual authors. All rights reserved. No article may be reproduced in any form, printed or electronically, without wriiten consent of the author and publisher. Copying for use in education or marketing requires permission of the author and publisher and is prohibited without that permission. Articles may not be scanned for use on personal or commercial websites or CD-ROMs. Published by Target Publishing Limited. Colour reproduction & printing by The Magazine Printing Company, Enfield, Middx. EN3 7NT www.magprint.co.uk . ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material lin accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication.
Published by Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ t: 01279 816300 f: 01279 816496 e: info@targetpublishing.com www.targetpublishing.com
In the News Trust welcomes Scottish government proposal for stronger deer regulation Photo: Keith Brame
“We warmly welcome this proposal from the Scottish Government to take action to protect what remains of our native woodland. “Many sporting estates have not just allowed, but encouraged deer numbers to escalate to unsustainable levels, which are harmful both to our ecosystem and to the well-being of the deer themselves. “This is a chance to halt and reverse two centuries of destruction.”
Junior Climbing
The John Muir Trust gave a warm welcome to Proposal 10 in the Scottish Government’s Consultation on the Future of Land Reform in Scotland, which recognises that Scotland’s biodiversity needs urgent protection from damage caused by high deer numbers. Among a package of measures to reform land ownership and use, the paper calls for Scottish Natural Heritage to be given new powers to “require that landowners have in place detailed sustainable deer management plans that protect the public interest, and that the plans are fully carried out”.
“For the benefit of a tiny minority, much of our upland environment is bare, degraded and impoverished as a result of overgrazing by deer.” The new powers would underpin the current voluntary system, as a backstop to be used if the voluntary arrangements fail to deliver the 2020 Biodiversity targets. The Scottish Government is also carrying out a separate review, which will be concluded in 2016, into whether the voluntary arrangements should be replaced by a new statutory system of deer management. Mike Daniels, the John Muir Trust’s head of land and science, said:
6 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
Following the Junior Lead Cup Series on 29th/30th November, the GB Junior Lead Climbing Team has been chosen. The Cup Series was held at Awesome Walls, Sheffield, and competitors competed in the category they will belong to in 2015. The Junior Lead Team management team take the results from the Lead Cup into consideration when selecting those for the team, as well as The British Lead Climbing Championships, BMC competitions, and previous international performances. GB Junior team manager, Ian Dunn, commented: “After the great turnout and fantastic climbing at Awesome Walls Sheffield in the first round of the Junior Lead Cup 2015/16, the GB Junior Lead team management have met to select the following climbers onto the Junior Lead Team for 2015.”
THE SELECTED TEAM: Junior Girls Molly Thompson-Smith (Team Captain), Tara Hayes, Youth A Girls Hannah Slaney, Rebecca Kinghorn Youth B Girls Catrin Rose, Kitty Morrison, Isabelle Adams, Abbie Rivett Youth C Girls Emily Phillips, Abigail Logan, Kirsten Pyper Junior Boys Connor Byrne, Alex Waterhouse Youth A Boys Jim Pope, Peter Dawson, William Bosi, Angus Davidson Youth B Boys Alex Norton, Sam Oakes, Aiden Dunne, Kieran Forrest Youth C Boys Hamish McArthur
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NEWS
SPONSORS RESPOND TO CRITICISM Early in November, it appeared that the energy bar company Clif had dropped five of its sponsored athletes, who are or have been associated with free soloing, BASE jumping and slacklining: Alex Honnold, Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Cedar Wright and Timmy O’Neill. The decision met with derision online and in print. Recently, they made the following press statement: “Over the past few days there’s been a heated dialogue about our recent decision to withdraw sponsorship of several climbers. We’ve watched, listened and been humbled by the conversation, and wanted to share with you where we are on this topic. Our hope is that we can provide clarity around our climbing sponsorships and to demonstrate our continued commitment to supporting this great sport and the climbing community. Climbing has been a part of our company’s DNA from the beginning. Over a year ago, we started having conversations internally about our concerns with B.A.S.E. jumping, highlining and free-soloing. We concluded that these forms of the sport are pushing boundaries and taking the element of risk to a place where we as a company are no longer willing to go. We understand that some climbers feel these forms of climbing are pushing the sport to new frontiers. But we no longer feel good about benefitting from the amount of risk certain athletes are
taking in areas of the sport where there is no margin for error; where there is no safety net. As such, going forward we will not be sponsoring climbers who are primarily recognised for free-soloing, B.A.S.E. jumping and high-lining. This change in sponsorship approach did not come without great debate. Ultimately, this decision came down to a sense of responsibility to our own story, what we endorse and the activities that we encourage – which is largely reflected in our sponsorship of athletes. This responsibility extends to adventurers of all types – climbers, outdoor enthusiasts, as well as children. We have and always will support athletes in many adventure-based sports, including climbing. And inherent in the idea of adventure is risk. We appreciate that assessing risk is a very personal decision. This isn’t about drawing a line for the sport or limiting athletes from pursuing their passions. We’re drawing a line for ourselves. We understand that this is a grey area, but we felt a need to start somewhere and start now. This is a new path for us, and we haven’t been perfect in the way that we’ve communicated or executed the change in sponsorships. For that we’re sorry and take full responsibility. Climbing has been a big part of Clif Bar’s history, and we remain as committed as ever to the sport that we love”.
British Mountaineering Council: Not just for climbers Hillwalking officer Carey Davies Photo: Terry Abraham
The body that looks after the interests of climbers, mountaineers and hillwalkers has announced it aims to do more to represent the hillwalking part of its membership. Previously, the British Mountaineering Council has been criticised for being overly-focused on climbing, but in 2013 it appointed its first hillwalking officer, outdoors journalist Carey Davies, to develop this aspect of their work. It has also appointed seven new ‘ambassadors’, but only one is focused exclusively on hillwalking - Chris Townsend. The BMC have acknowledged they need to redress the balance. At the Kendal Mountain Festival, chief exec Dave Turnbull announced the Council’s next moves:
“We’re analysing where the shortfalls are; where we need to do more…it’s a really important group of members for us. It’s one of the few areas where we get serious criticism for not doing enough, and we’re genuinely keen to do it’’. 8 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
In a survey of 2000 members last year, while 70 per cent were climbers to some degree, over 60 per cent described hillwalking as their primary activity, as opposed to only 26 per cent climbing. While the BMC’s work on access and conservation scored highly and unified most members, 70 per cent were dissatisfied with the approach taken to hillwalking. Davies, whose post is funded by Sport England, has written an ambitious strategy paper which highlights the Council’s historical bias towards climbing at an institutional level - from local area committees and clubs, to funding, spending and communications agendas. He has produced detailed plans to widen the remit via press and media, and appointing more hillwalking ambassadors. Turnbull commented, “We need help from the media; we need members who are keen to get involved with that and ultimately, I’m sure, the organisation will put its money where its mouth is and invest in work for hillwalkers.” Progress is being made on communications already, but Davies also suggests structural changes at a regional level that may take longer to implement, including widening the focus of regional development officers to include walking as well as climbing, and an access officer devoted to hillwalking. One solution may lie in partnerships with other walking-focused organisations such as the Ramblers and The National Trust. Following an open forum in the Peak District in late November, the BMC hopes to roll out its hillwalking strategy during 2015. www.mountainpromag.com
Book Reviews CHANTELLE KELLY REVIEWS THE LATEST RELEASES FROM THE OUTDOOR BOOKSHELF THE GREAT MOUNTAIN CRAGS OF SCOTLAND Published by Vertebrate Publishing RRP £35.00 Scottish writers and climbers have come together to create a celebration of Scotland’s mountains, rock and wild climbing locations. Each page is beautifully illustrated with breathtaking photography of climbers daring the highest rocks, and captures some of Scotland’s most scenic landscapes. The chapters begin with a poem from writer Stuart Campbell, followed with an introduction to the region. There’s a huge variety of information on offer for each locale - cliffs, climbs and recommended routes. It also includes personal accounts from many of Scottish mountaineering’s greatest climbers and writers, retelling their achievements and challenges. Ideal for anyone interested in rock climbing and mountaineering in Scotland, and something for both beginner through to the expert.
EVEREST REVEALED Published by The History Press RRP £20.00 Edward Norton was a member of the 1922 Everest expedition, the first which aimed for the summit. Although unsuccessful, Norton set the record height of reaching 26 985 feet. He was also the leader of the 1924 attempt, where he set a world altitude record of 28 126 feet without oxygen - a record that stood for 54 years. This is a glorious showcase of Norton’s private diaries, revealing his first-hand personal account from both expeditions, covering the routes, weather conditions and illness up close and personal. The book also includes letters written by Norton while on Everest: three to his mother, Edith, one to the Mount Everest Committee chairman, and two letters of condolences to family members of those who sadly died on the 1924 expedition. The pages are graced with photographs, as well as beautiful sketches completed by Norton throughout his time on Everest. 10 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
EMPIRE ANTARCTICA Published by Vintage Books RRP £8.99 Author Gavin Francis spent an entire 14 months in the ‘white room’ of Antarctica, as the base-camp doctor for the British Antarctic Survey at the Halley research station. Empire Antarctica explores his journey to Antarctica and his search for space and silence, a far cry from his hectic professional life back home in Edinburgh. I was immersed in the world that oscillated between loneliness and isolation, wonder and discovery, and the rare opportunity of living among the majestic emperor penguins. Gavin’s written word is poetic, but there’s plenty of information here too - a history of the first Antarctic discoveries, including Captain James Cook’s second voyage to the Southern Ocean, where he rightly predicted the existence of another unfound continent. There’s regular references to Scott and Shackleton, who both attended the Discovery Expedition; the first official British exploration of the Antarctic in 1901-4. This is a really fascinating read for anyone intrigued by the continent – I was transported. www.mountainpromag.com
KENDAL SPECIAL
Mountain Festival industry summit ADVENTURE FILM IS BOTH A BROAD CHURCH AND A CONTESTED LANDSCAPE, WHERE THE LINES BETWEEN RAW ACTION DOCUMENT, ARTISTRY AND STORYTELLING ARE INCREASINGLY BLURRED. KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL FILM OFFICER CLAIRE CARTER SURVEYS THE BATTLEGROUND IN HER FIRST REPORT FOR MOUNTAIN PRO.
Photo: Henry Iddon This year at Kendal we wanted to bring that ‘Share the Adventure’ strap line behind the scenes and make it relevant to those filmmakers, athletes, sponsors and commissioners who bring adventures to the screen. In between the main events and the crush at the bar, it’s hard to share much beyond a drinks’ order. What would happen if we put a bunch of industry people in a box with some booze to talk about adventure film craft, share ideas, agree or disagree? We booked a real box for an afternoon, invited some eminent panellists and ordered some booze for half-time. ‘I realised a while ago that pretty much all of us filmmakers work in their own little sphere, and there’s hardly any exchange. Exchange is what we really need to stay on top, learn from other people and become better in www.mountainpromag.com
terms of storytelling and technically. KMF is a chance to talk to different people from the outdoor business, as well as seeing the newest and best films from a wide variety of sports.’ Sebastian Dorek, Switzerland. The first KMF Filmmaking Summit kicked off with a panel put together by festival partner Channel 4: ‘We have a remit for finding and supporting emergent talent across the creative industries. Supporting Kendal Mountain Festival is principally a way of getting first sight of great short form content and talent, but we also want to help filmmakers better understand ways of working with us and other buyers in the industry, whether that be acquisition of their content, development or commission.’ JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 11
KENDAL SPECIAL
Photo: Henry Iddon
So explained Ch4 development manager Ian Mackenzie, introducing his panel of filmmakers, Stu Thompson and Katie Garret, producer Gareth Rees and Ch4 sports coordinator Keme Nzerem. The KMF/Ch4 Shorts Award considers all selected films of 13 minutes or less for television acquisition. You might assume that TV would need to package up adventure as cliché for a mainstream audience, as near to Cliffhanger as a budget could stretch. Not so. Meet the maker of last year’s winning film, Katie Garret. In four understated minutes, her film Cave Unicycling explained the ‘adventure’ of mastering single wheel tricks in dank British caves, and was duly aired on Ch4 last week. Katie described her aim to make adventure films that are accessible, that can inspire anyone. Some of the audience shifted in their seats. This was a controversial theme of KMF14. All the films the judges shortlisted, and those that did well in the People’s Choice Vote, transcended their particular genre. Whether it was a climbing bum, a tortured caver or acid-addled kayaker on screen, you could appreciate their adventure; it was accessible. Keme, also acting as chair of this year’s judges, pointed out: ’Adventure filmmaking is at a crossroads. The Gopro generation has well and truly gonepro, and now the challenge is to produce stories that resonate not just with fellow adventurers, but a wider audience. There’s always a place for pure action - whatever the sport - but why limit your audience? This year’s KMF entries showcased a huge range of filmmaking talent and production techniques - filmmakers increasingly need to offer something different to get heard above the competition. Adventure film has so much to offer the wider industry - and it deserves to continue growing and find new viewers.’ But where does that leave niche documentation; what about tribal adventure films? Were all the winning films just soap operas set outdoors? Not for me. From the simple, effective conceit of Jen Randall’s Where Walking Took Me, to Seb Montaz’s Dejame Vivir, where athlete Killian Jornet carries the camera and is in effect, the filmmaker, the films demonstrated a real authenticity – a desire to express the true spirit of their adventure. This sounds rather obvious. ‘Authenticity’, being true to one’s own spirit, is a quality the adventure industry would claim to have in spades. After all, we adventure, we experience the real world, we know ourselves. But how, when the point of an adventure is an unknown outcome, do you prevent the filmmaking process and pressure of delivery from corrupting it? How do you authentically record a risky event; are you accountable if the worst happens? The second panel of the Filmmaking Summit, ‘Reel or Real, Authenticity in Adventure Film’ aimed to open up these issues and ask questions of filmmakers themselves. When do you stage events to avoid risk? How does your presence affect the athlete’s experience? The panel of filmmakers Jen Randall, Rich Heap and Ben Pritchard, and athletes Hazel Findlay and Andy 12 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
“Adventure filmmaking is at a crossroads. The Gopro generation has well and truly gonepro, and now the challenge is to produce stories that resonate not just with fellow adventurers, but a wider audience”. Kirkpatrick, did well to articulate their experiences in the field, as the debate from the floor intensified between those who felt that adventure film could and should be an edit of events that really occur, and those who felt the key point was to entertain, and so adventure filmmakers should have the same flexibility of craft as in any other genre, and still be deemed authentic. ‘The panel within Real or Reel wasn’t so much the five people sitting on the stage, as it was the 100+ people sitting within the whole room - it was unlike anything I have ever seen at the festival before. Opinions from all corners of the industry were thrown around and bounced off the other; unlike the films/lectures where one’s role is to sit back and relax, the KMF Summit provided far more active involvement…’ Rob Greenwood, UKC. The recent ‘sacking’ of soloists by the brand CliffBar served to highlight the third pole of this debate: if sponsors favour a safer kind of adventure, will truly adventurous adventures continue to happen if the athletes are reliant on film for finance? Other tensions were voiced; the logistical challenge in assuring the delivery of bigger, better, more dangerous adventure pitches and the responsibility of a filmmaker to an athlete on ‘set’. I wonder whether these feelings correlated with the reduced number of pure adrenaline films in this year’s submissions spread. Instead, several films depicted a lifetime of adventurous existence, rather than a single extreme moment, and just within climbing, we had three films about heritage and the birth of adventure, rather than the cutting-edge of risk. Is the cuttingedge better off beyond the cameras? Are CliffBar’s soloists now free to adventure unhampered by shot lists? We had to close the Summit mid-flow, but the debate continued (louder still) into the bar. It was personal and polarised; if the Summit had had a sponsor, it would have been Marmite. It was reassuring to be reminded we work in a passionate industry full of people keen to share in debate. There are no easy or safe conclusions to these issues; it is an adventure in itself. If the Summit was anything to go by, the filmmakers and the athletes will keep on questing for new ideas, new boundaries and new methods in both filmmaking technique and narrative. Hopefully the sponsors will support this authentic approach, and KMF15 will see another set of creative, spirited adventure films that make clear connections with a widening audience. It will certainly see another Summit. ‘Listening to and contributing to discussions with people on both sides of the camera was very engaging as a filmmaker. With the surface now scratched, it will be interesting to see how this event develops in future years. KMF has become the go-to place for the aspirant adventure filmmaker; the friendly atmosphere and community feel actively encourages people to talk, share ideas and stories - whether that’s filmmaker to filmmaker or viewer to viewer, at KMF, it’s often hard to make that distinction.’ Adrian Samarra, Cold House Collective. ‘For most of the year we are either locked away alone in a studio or hanging off a remote cliff face, so it’s great to have an event where we can meet other folk face-to-face. Social media is all very well, but a handshake over a glass of red will always generate a stronger connection. Paul Diffley, Hot Aches Filmmaker Keep sharing; we will see you next year. www.mountainpromag.com
KENDAL SPECIAL
Film Awards
HERE ARE THE TRAILERS AND TEASERS FOR THE AWARD-WINNING FILMS THIS YEAR AT KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL.
GRAND PRIZE, VALLEY UPRISING www.youtube.com/embed/W4SU7aLzS00
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 13
KENDAL SPECIAL
BEST CLIMBING FILM, SUFFERFEST II, player.vimeo.com/video/102425965
BEST MOUNTAINEERING FILM, METANOIA, www.youtube.com/embed/nGDoptuuldU
14 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
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KENDAL SPECIAL
BEST ADVENTURE & EXPLORATION FILM, DEJAME VIVIR, www.youtube.com/embed/J8vhFkZxqGs
BEST ENVIRONMENT & CULTURE FILM, DAMNATION, www.youtube.com/embed/8X2dYnTX55E
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 15
KENDAL SPECIAL
BEST SHORT FILM, WHERE WALKING TOOK ME, tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/where-walking-took-me
BEST SOUND, SOUNDS OF PARAGLIDING, player.vimeo.com/video/107580451
16 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
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KENDAL SPECIAL
BEST VISUAL, AFTERGLOW, player.vimeo.com/video/108679294
JUDGES SPECIAL PRIZE, CAILLEACH, player.vimeo.com/video/97435479
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 17
INTERVIEW
Taking Stock: The Ueli Steck Interview
Photo: David Lintern
18 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
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DAVID LINTERN FINDS THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS MOUNTAINEER IN A QUIET PLACE AT KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL. HOW DID YOU START CLIMBING?
Photo: Freddie Wilkinson
You know, I started climbing when I was 12 years old, and it’s really simple in Switzerland, you have the Alpine Club - which has a really, really good programme. And basically I just got into that. My family doesn’t climb at all, so my first experience was with a friend of my father; I would go rock climbing and really just followed the club programme. You can go every weekend, every week, once a week; we were in like a climbing gym, although at the time climbing gyms didn’t exist, but it was like, you know, wooden holds - pretty basic. In my teens, we still went climbing outdoors in the winter because the indoor facilities were so basic. Where I grew up, I was near to the mountains; even a half hour car journey was a long distance for us! WHY GO FAST? You know, time always matters in the mountains. When I grew up we were told you must be efficient, you should be fast. So I think this is a real issue in climbing – if you don’t make it in a day, you have to have a bivvy, and it’s not nice. But also, the really fast ascents are a personal challenge. It’s hard to find a challenge these days, you know. All the mountains are climbed, in the Alps all the faces are done - you can maybe put up a new route or whatever, or a variation, but mostly it’s all done. ARE YOU COMPETITIVE? Yes. There are some that are happy to be in nature, but it was never that for me; it was always about the challenge of climbing, finding a hard route...you know, I grew up with sport, I was playing ice hockey when I was young, and so that was my emphasis, my tradition if you like.
ONCE THE DECISION IS MADE, I DON’T THINK ABOUT IT. I DON’T PUSH, THERE’S NO PRESSURE; I PUT ALL THAT OUT OF MY MIND. I’M JUST GOING TO HAVE A LOOK.
WHAT’S THE CONNECTION BETWEEN GOING SOLO AND SPEED?
was a really hard moment for me, because I’m thinking ‘this time it’s
It’s just more efficient if you’re alone. If it’s not too technical, you’re
really going to work’, there are two of us, and then he bails, and then
always faster solo… and it’s a different experience when you’re
I’m thinking ‘what am I doing?!’ I had to take a decision really fast,
alone; I’m much more in the nature of the moment, there’s no one
because there were too many reasons not to go. I didn’t know I could
around to disturb that; there’s so much more focus.
get to the summit alone. At that point, I still had a big backpack with a sleeping bag and other equipment, but when I started on the first
CAN YOU TALK ABOUT SOME OF THE KEY DECISIONS ON ANNAPURNA
slopes, I realised it was in perfect condition. It took me an hour to
LAST YEAR?
get to camp one at 6100ms, where we had slept before, and there I
Well, Annapurna for me, it was a long journey. I tried it in 2007 and
decided I had to try, so I left everything there.
2008, it didn’t work, so I went back in 2013 to try, together with Don Bowie, and we got well acclimatised with a couple of nights on the
AFTER YOU WERE HIT BY AN AVALANCHE AND LOST YOUR CAMERA AND
face then went back to base camp, and then October 8th we tried to
DOWN MITT, WHY CONTINUE TO GO UP, AND NOT DOWN?
climb it. When we got to the Bergschrund, Don bailed. He was just
I could… but I put so much in. That was the moment I realised ‘you
scared, he didn’t feel safe. I appreciated his decision, you know, it’s
are really in trouble up here’. From this point on, the summit changed
cool, it’s better than going up for a couple of hundred metres and
my mentality. I really just fully accepted without stress that I might
then deciding…
not come back down. This had never happened to me before, but
But you need to be a strong climber. We discussed that you have
in this moment, I accepted I was going to die. This was the really
to be able to move individually until 7000 metres - if you have to
interesting thing - how far you can go until you accept it, and you’re
rope up before it takes forever, it’s too slow, and I’m not into that. It
not afraid of death. My only thought was ‘can I keep going without
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 19
INTERVIEW
Photo: Freddie Wilkinson
picture, then it creates discussion, and then again, if I had taken a photo at night, it would change nothing. WHAT HAPPENED AFTER? You know, I was empty after Annapurna. It wasn’t a good time; I was really broken, even in my head. So, it took a little while to start climbing again. I’ve spent too much time on Expedition over the last couple of years, and you lose fitness. But now I’m training seriously again, maybe 30 hours a week. DID THE FACT THAT YOU WERE RECOGNISED FOR THIS CLIMB WITH THE PIOLET D’OR MAKE A DIFFERENCE TO YOU? Yeah, it was nice to have that. I relaxed a little. But also, I have to accept now I’m in a position that somebody will find something to criticise. Every mountaineer or climber who tries to push the limit, someone will find a fault on a forum somewhere…though it would be better to go climbing! SO, YOU ARE TAKING A LITTLE TIME RIGHT NOW - WHERE ARE YOU AT WITH THAT? You have to accept that pushing that far you can do maybe once in your life, and then you should stop, because otherwise you will die. Check all the good French climbers from the 1980s, they’re all dead. The only one who is still alive is Christophe Profit, and the only reason is because in a certain moment after K2, he said ‘I’m done, I’m working as a guide.’ I will still climb but this is over, I’ve reached my
that glove?’ But I still had climbing gloves, and I had one mitten, and
peak and that’s good enough. I think it’s really important to accept
I could change that from hand to hand. So I went back down, found
that, and…I just have. I’ve had discussions with Steve House; he’s in
a place to stay, and brewed snow for an hour, and as soon as the
the same situation. After Nanga Parbat he knows if he continues like
sun left the face, the wind was gone. Once I continued climbing, the
that he’s not going to survive, and it’s the same for me. So you really
previous day’s snow was perfectly frozen to the rock, perfectly sticky
have to find a new way. It’s not like I want to stop climbing, but I have
– it was a dream you know, a chance of a lifetime to get conditions
to somehow get off this road. To climb in that style now is a no-go.
like that…
And that is a process I had to go through.
DID YOU WRESTLE WITH THE DECISION TO GO ON DURING THE REST?
HAVE YOU FIGURED OUT YET HOW YOUR CLIMBING STYLE MIGHT CHANGE;
No - I think this is something very important in life. You have to realise
WHAT PROJECTS ARE ON THE HORIZON?
when you are given a chance, and then you have to push. Once on the
I’m taking some time to think, but I always have plans! I want to find
headwall, I was just concentrating on the climb, and every corner you
some projects, which are maybe less risk, but need a lot of endurance.
move around opens another door – ‘oh yeah, it’s going to work’, it was
Next year, I have an idea for a really nice Alps project, and then in the
pretty nice! I was moving really fast, you know, I had no equipment; I
fall, I might return to the Himalaya to climb Lhotse, with a partner.
was just wearing my down jacket that day. My problem was I had to be able to down climb most of it, because you cannot rappel a 1000
REWINDING TO THE SPRING OF 2013, CAN YOU REFLECT ON THE MEDIA
metre face with one ice screw and one piton! And then the upper part
STORM THAT HAPPENED AFTER THE ARGUMENT WITH THE SHERPAS ON
became really perfect, easy. On the summit ridge it was kind of weird,
EVEREST?
it wasn’t clear which one was higher at first, so I went on. There was
We did not start to make the news. There were a lot of people in base
not much feeling there. I spent maybe a minute at the summit before
camp who started to talk bullshit and then you’re forced to talk. It’s
I turned around.
easy not to talk at first, but then the story goes on and on and you cannot just stay quiet. We did the one press release and that’s it, and
AND THE LACK OF SUMMIT PICTURE?
then we said no more. That was also the agreement between us and
In the moment, I was just climbing - only when I came back I realised,
the Sherpas – make a statement but no more. You know Everest, it’s
‘oh shit I will not have a summit picture.’ A Sherpa saw me at midnight
a business there. People are talking too much these days, I think. You
just below the summit with my headlamp and later, when I saw him
have Facebook, Twitter; everybody is pushing out 24hr news...
on the glacier, I didn’t even have to talk; he was like ‘you summit!’ That was a really, really, cool moment. But, of course, if there’s no 20 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
WAS THERE ANYTHING POSITIVE TO COME OUT OF THAT EXPERIENCE FOR www.mountainpromag.com
SO YOU REALLY HAVE TO FIND A NEW WAY. IT’S NOT LIKE I WANT TO STOP CLIMBING, BUT I HAVE TO SOMEHOW GET OFF THIS ROAD. TO CLIMB IN THAT STYLE NOW IS A NO-GO. AND THAT IS A PROCESS I HAD TO GO THROUGH.
personally. WHAT ABOUT THE BIGGER PICTURE FOR THE COMMUNITY, AND THE MOUNTAIN? I was thinking of going back this spring to try again, but now I’m not. There is too much going on there between the companies and Sherpas. I don’t want to be any part of it, it’s too crazy. You saw it blow up again this spring, after the avalanche. I understand the Sherpa’s position, but everybody who works there knows there is a risk. If you’re only there for the money, that’s fine, but you have to accept the risk. When this avalanche happened, everybody was ‘Oh, poor Sherpa’. This is bullshit…for the Sherpa as well! They know what they’re doing and they get well-paid for it. But then, there are big pay differences, which causes jealousy, friction between them. For example, Russell Brice pays his Sherpas well, maybe 5000 dollars, whereas others pay only £500. Russell’s Sherpas were happy to continue after the avalanche, but the others refused. THE RISK WAS TOO GREAT FOR THE MONEY THEY WERE PAID?
YOU PERSONALLY?
Yeah. But they also said; ‘No you cannot continue the work, otherwise
For me, I learnt a lot. Before maybe I was a little naïve, I always saw
we break your legs and we burn your houses’. That’s what is going to
the good in people, but the situation on Everest was, it is terrible.
happen. It’s like the mafia, you know, it will not stop.
As soon as money gets involved, people change. With business comes a lot of jealousy. It’s a hard lesson, but for me personally it’s
Our thanks to Ueli for his time, Cat for organising, and Jamie and co.
good, so I can get some distance from all that, and don’t take it too
for hosting. Photo: Jon Griffith
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 21
VIDEO
THE HARDEST LINE from Rab PRO In early 2014, Calum Muskett and Dave McLeod set out for Patagonia to repeat David Lama’s free Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. With pitches up to 8a and bold, committing climbing high on the mountain, it is probably one of the hardest alpine climbs in the world. But Patagonia is famous for its foul weather and month-long storms. Would two of Britain’s best climbers even get to see the mountain, let alone try one of the hardest, most famous and controversial climbs in the world? Find out more about the expedition at rab.uk.com/ patagonia2014/
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bouldering
Rock Problem As we finAlly heAd into winter, sub-zero temperAtures And short dAys leAd some to focus their Attention on hArd, frictiondependent boulder problems. henry from steepedge tAlKs through his top three bouldering films from 2014:
Wild One: The story of Philippe Ribiere, perhaps one of the world’s most inspirational climbers. Abandoned by his parents at birth, Philippe was born with Rubinstein-Taybi Syndrome, and spent the first four years of his life in hospital undergoing multiple operations. Philippe first discovered rock climbing aged sixteen, and despite having deformed fingers and toes, as well as disproportionately short arms, he soon became an exceptional climber, repeating numerous hard problems across Europe. Despite being shown little love and affection as a child, Philippe has based his career around organising paraclimbing events, helping disabled climbers who have experienced the same disadvantages as himself. Featuring Philippe making ascents of difficult boulder problems at his local crags, as well as his paraclimbing competition appearances, Wild One tells the story of a truly remarkable climber and human being. http://steepedge.com/categories/disability-inspired/wild-one.html
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 23
BOULDERING
PROJECT MINA: Professional climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is one of the best outdoor
OUT OF SIGHT II:
boulderers in the world, with multiple ascents of 8A+ under her
The second installment
belt. Yet on the indoor bouldering world cup circuit, she’s struggled
in Neil Hart’s pursuit
to achieve consistent good results, and has never made it to the
to capture ascents
podium. Despite this, she spends the majority of her time training to
of the best, and
compete, when she could be out on rock enjoying success on some of the best boulder problems the world has to offer. Project Mina
most rarely climbed
attempts to find out what motivates a climber to dedicate their life
Fontainebleau. Focusing
to their sport, focusing on the quiet ascents and gruelling training
on problems off the
sessions that lead
boulder problems in
to the top-outs
beaten tracks of the forest, Out of Sight II
and trophies we’re
features a wealth of
so used to seeing
international climbing
in other climbing films. From Push
talent, including Nalle
It director Jen Randall, Project Mina gives an insight into the life of one of Britain’s most talented climbing personalities. http://steepedge. com/categories/ rock-climbing/ project-mina.html
Ashima Shiraishi and Jan
Hukkataival, Jimmy Webb, Hojer, alongside leading local climbers making ascents up to 8C on Font’s perfect sandstone boulders. Hart’s film also includes the more unusual interactions with problems in the forest, including multiple ascents from one-armed climber RenéPaul Eustache, and barefoot ascents of problems as hard as 7C! Out of Sight II offers an alternate perspective of one of the world’s most popular climbing destinations, proving that despite years of development from visiting and local climbers, Fontainebleau is still full of hidden gems. Find out more here http://steepedge.com/categories/bouldering/out-of-sight-ii.html
Buy any film on SteepEdge and use the code MOUNTAINPRO20 to get 20% off your first purchase! 24 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
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CONSERVATION
A Space for Nature? REWILDING HAS BECOME THE LATEST BUZZWORD FOR ONE OF THE OLDEST IDEAS IN CONSERVATION. CAN WE REALLY ‘REWILD’ AN ISLAND THAT IS HOME TO 60 MILLION PEOPLE? CONSERVATION PHOTOGRAPHER PETER CAIRNS MAKES A PASSIONATE CASE FOR THINKING BIG.
26 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
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Studies suggest that even today, the Scottish Highlands could support 400 lynx. Feeding primarily on roe deer, they would curb grazing pressure, allowing new trees a better chance of survival.
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 27
CONSERVATION Private landowners in Glenfeshie in the Scottish Highlands are working to restore native woodland and the mosaic of rich habitats that comprise a healthy forest.
M
ention the ‘R’ word within certain circles and hackles
the vast shoals of fish. The science is now telling us that if we want
rise; sharp intakes of breath can be heard. Rewilding is
our ecosystems to function as they should, we need to think bigger;
seen as dangerous, preposterous even. It brings to the
we need to repair, re-connect and revitalise whole landscapes.
surface a deep-seated fear of wild animals and nature
Rewilding has myriad connotations, but at its core it promotes
run riot, a lack of civilisation, even. In a country that has tamed the
the restoration of natural processes; allowing nature to go about its
great outdoors almost exclusively for our own benefit - made it safe
business unimpeded. For many advocates it also necessitates the
to walk, camp or cycle – ‘rewilding’ jars with the notion that nature
return of absent species that in the past fuelled those processes. In
is and should remain under human dominion. Throw in a suggestion
Britain, such species would include wild boar, crane, beaver, lynx,
of rampaging wolves or prowling lynx, and the prospect of rewilding
wolf and even bear.
our orderly, managed island, seems distant at best, ridiculous at worst. And yet that needn’t be the case.
Fanciful? Not so, I would argue. Across mainland Europe these creatures are finding their way back, relieved of centuries of
Rewilding may be easily dismissed as a buzzword, but it does
persecution. But here, in a country with more ‘conservationists’ than
encourage us to think differently. It needs us to be objective, long-
almost anywhere else, discussions around rewilding remain cautious
sighted and considerate of our place, not as individuals, but as a
and are driven by politics rather than ecology. Rewilding in Britain
species. It’s a word that hints of the future not the past, offering a
isn’t starting from scratch - there are some exciting developments
tantalising glimpse of what might be possible. Until now, we’ve been
across the country - but relative to other countries, even those with
conservative in our aspirations. We’ve settled for holding on to tiny,
less resource than our own, our efforts are conservative.
isolated fragments of nature, populated by a beleaguered suite
So why should we rewild? Firstly, we simply have a moral duty to
of species. Yes we have badgers and otters, ospreys and kites, but
put right the damage done over the last few centuries. We are quick
where are our large carnivores? Gone too are the huge whales and
to condemn developing countries for eradicating their own wildlife.
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In parts of the Cairngorms National Park, forest fragments are being joined up to create wildlife corridors across vast areas.
How about our own backyard?
“HERE, IN A COUNTRY WITH MORE ‘CONSERVATIONISTS’ THAN ALMOST ANYWHERE ELSE, DISCUSSIONS AROUND REWILDING REMAIN CAUTIOUS AND ARE DRIVEN BY POLITICS RATHER THAN ECOLOGY. REWILDING IN BRITAIN ISN’T STARTING FROM SCRATCH - THERE ARE SOME EXCITING DEVELOPMENTS ACROSS THE COUNTRY - BUT RELATIVE TO OTHER COUNTRIES, EVEN THOSE WITH LESS RESOURCE THAN OUR OWN, OUR EFFORTS ARE CONSERVATIVE.” www.mountainpromag.com
And there are serious, practical reasons too. Without forests to clean our air, without peat bogs to clean water and store carbon, and without predator-prey interactions putting nutrients back into our soils and encouraging diversity, our world is an engine running without oil. We may get away scot-free for now, but for how long? The engine needs repairing or it will seize up. We all rely on the free stuff we get from nature – including places to ‘play’ - but if we don’t allow natural processes some room to flourish, the ecosystem services we rely on will come under increasing threat. Finally - and this may resonate with many outdoors people - we need wildness in our lives. A detachment from nature is bad for us. A growing body of research is attributing conditions like obesity, antisocial behaviour and even depression in children to a lack of time spent in the outdoors. In my view, rewilding is not about going back and recreating something we’ve lost, it’s about moving forward. It’s also about letting go, and here is where I think we struggle. We like our wildlife for sure; we perhaps like our wildlife more today than at any time in recent history. But we like it on our terms, under our control.
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 29
CONSERVATION Sea eagles were reintroduced into west Scotland 30 years ago, and have recently been returned to the east. These huge raptors would once have been a common sight around the whole coast and given the will, could be again.
Wolves have only been extinct in the UK for around 300 years, but that’s long enough for us to get used to life without them. Wolves are now clawing back old ground in Europe with new populations in Germany, France and Spain.
We like to ‘manage’. Rewilding passes that responsibility back to Scottish charity Trees for Life have planted over one million native trees as part of their objective to rewild 600 square miles in Glen Affric and in neighbouring glens. Ultimately this might be a place to reintroduce lynx or wolf.
nature, and we’ve grown out of that habit. A shift in mindset then, is really all that is needed to kick-start an exciting new chapter in our relationship with the wild world. There are undoubtedly socio-economic and cultural considerations against rewilding, but I’d argue they are all surmountable. We can all do our bit by supporting organisations committed to rewilding, and by rewilding our own patches – gardens, allotments, local parks, and if you find yourself in our National Parks for work or leisure, then there too. But hanging onto isolated fragments of nature is no longer an option – we need to think bigger.
LEARN MORE SCOTLAND - The Big Picture: A photographic initiative by Peter Cairns which frames the case for a wilder Scotland: http://northshots.com/thebigpicture/ Trees for Life: Scottish charity working towards restoring large areas of wild forest in the Highlands. www.treesforlife.org.uk John Muir Trust: Working to protect wild land and engaging people in support and appreciation of wild places. www.jmt.org Rewilding Britain: A new organisation committed to developing a new approach to conservation through restoring natural processes. www.rewilding-britain.org
GET INVOLVED Become a wildlife gardener: http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/advice/wildlifegardening/
Beavers have a profound effect on their surroundings and are referred to as ‘keystone species’, due to their wetland engineering benefitting insects, fish and birdlife. Their return to our river catchments might even help with flood mitigation.
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FURTHER READING FERAL: Searching for enchantment on the frontiers of rewilding by George Monbiot
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ONE DAY AS A TIGER
Bandaka AN EXCLUSIVE EXCERPT FROM THE 2014 BANFF GRAND PRIZE AND MOUNTAIN BOOK FESTIVAL WINNER, ONE DAY AS A TIGER, BY JOHN PORTER.
T
he weather remains perfect, but the wall steepens into
Alex has woken up. We are now in his domain.
more technical ground. At breakfast, I bandage my fingers
‘You are like the fabled monkey,’ Voytek says, ‘or maybe just joker
with tape to cover the deepest lacerations. Once again Alex takes up the rear and jumars as Voytek and I take
in the pack.’ Alex takes the ice screws, organises them carefully on two
three leads each before swapping over, repeating the routine as the
karabiners on either side of his harness. He takes four deep breaths,
mountain falls away beneath us. We are rising above the surrounding
exhaling like a locomotive gathering steam, then makes a perfect
peaks. The seemingly endless ridges of the Hindu Kush march in
placement with his axe in the ice above. He leads nearly a full rope
ranks toward the two main peaks at the eastern end of the range –
length with one screw for protection before he cuts a narrow stance
Noshaq and Tirich Mir, eighty miles away as the eagle flies. In the
in the hard ice and brings us up in tandem.
evening glow, we reach the sixty-five degree summit ice and hack
We are now only twenty feet below the bottom of the cornice.
out a ledge big enough for the three of us to make a sitting belay.
It looks impenetrable. Alex takes the recovered ice screw and sets
The ritual begins as we pass the pot of food back and forth
off again. With a grin I agree he is a bit like a monkey. His front
between us, each taking two spoonfulls of instant potatoes and
points barely scratch the surface as he tiptoes up near-vertical ice.
cheese before passing it on, content and amazed by our bench in the
Unexpectedly, he finds a hole at the base of the cornice, climbs in
sky at 21,500 feet. Then Voytek has to spoil it.
and rests. While gazing at the unlikely prospect of ice now stretching
‘You see there the Pamirs? That one big peak on the far left? Last
twenty feet out over his head, he spies a slice cut deeply into the
year two Russians climbed a big face for three days and couldn’t get
cornice, which leads diagonally up and right. It ends in a wedge of
through the cornices at the top, so they had to go back down.’
deep blue sky.
‘Well that’s great, Voytek, we’ve already established we can’t get back down from here.’ Dawn breaks slowly behind the great peaks to the east, gently
Alex shouts down his news and begins to squirm and chimney up and out toward the lip. Thirty feet later, he is looking down through a hole at his alarmed companions. To him, we appear as red-jacketed
gathering pace and strength as it scrolls through a spectrum of
gnats on a vertical mirror. Then Alex rolls onto his back, swings his
pastels. By the time the sun splits open the horizon, we have nearly
Terrordactyl and takes a comforting bite into the hard ice above. His
finished our porridge.
arse hangs in space for a moment, then he gyrates up and out of
The summit ice field is like The Shroud on the Grandes Jorasses,
sight. There is a shout of elation. I am last up and roll out onto the
steep but straightforward, except for one rock step, which I tickle
broad summit plateau. I am facing a new horizon at last, new ranges
over on front points. The overhanging ‘frog’s eyes’ seem to stay
of peaks tumbling away to the west and south.
motionless at first, but after eight pitches we are passing up the
Voytek and Alex are thirty feet back from the edge with axes sunk
bridge of the nose between them. There is one final, unwanted
deep for a belay. I stagger toward them, arms dragging, spirits flying.
surprise. From base camp, we thought the frog’s eyes were the
‘You look like you’ve just seen heaven.’
summit cornice. In fact, they hide from view a final cornice now
‘I guess this is as close as we’ll get, kid.’
hanging over our heads. I remember Voytek’s words from the evening before but none of us says a word. The ice has now hardened into the familiar black steel of a winter alpine face and has steepened. Voytek and I are debating the options when Alex arrives at the stance. Voytek thinks it might be possible to go left, I wonder what happens out right. Alex clips onto the ice screws, smiles and looking up says: ‘My turn guys.’ 32 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
Copyright © 2014 John Porter/Vertebrate Publishing. http://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/categories/ e-books/one-day-as-a-tiger.html A 10% discount on the book is available to Mountain Pro readers. The code is MOUNTAINTIGER, and is valid until the end of February 2015.
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John Porter enters the summit ice fields at the end of day five on Koh-i-Bandaka. Photo: Alex MacIntyre.
“ALEX TAKES THE ICE SCREWS, ORGANISES THEM CAREFULLY ON TWO KARABINERS ON EITHER SIDE OF HIS HARNESS. HE TAKES FOUR DEEP BREATHS, EXHALING LIKE A LOCOMOTIVE GATHERING STEAM, THEN MAKES A PERFECT PLACEMENT WITH HIS AXE IN THE ICE ABOVE.” www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 33
WINTER MOUNTAINEERING
No place to slip BUYING ALL THE TOYS, STRAPPING THEM ON AND HEADING OUT INTO THE WHITE WON’T NECESSARILY MAKE US SAFE. LOTS OF PRACTICE ON FRIENDLY TERRAIN IS KEY. RICHARD BENTLEY WALKS US THROUGH SOME WINTER CLASSROOM ESSENTIALS.
S
ome people say that there is no such thing as winter walking, only winter mountaineering. This is open to debate, but it does reflect the seriousness of heading out into the UK mountains in winter conditions. There are
greater inherent risks and greater demands placed on personal skills, knowledge, and mountaineering decisions. In this piece I am going to look at the development of good movement and mountaineering skills, which are fundamental to travelling through the winter mountains safely. There are other key skills, not discussed here, such as avalanche awareness, navigation, and an understanding of cold injuries and hypothermia issues, which also need to be learnt, but first things first…
LEARNING TO WALK When coaching roped winter mountaineering and climbing, I will often use routes that are well within the client’s ability to solo. 34 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
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“DEVELOP THE HABIT OF A SUBPROGRAM LOOPING AT THE BACK OF YOUR MIND. “WHAT’S THE CHANCE OF ME SLIPPING HERE? WHAT HAPPENS IF I DO?” www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 35
WINTER MOUNTAINEERING Once they have developed the safety net of good ropework and stance Descending tower gully - good snow but serious
management that will catch them if they blow it, it’s time to move onto
consequences
harder routes and more difficult ground. A similar approach can be used for the key winter skills such as footwork, crampon technique and use of the axe. One of the biggest challenges in winter is the changing nature of the snow underfoot. This is probably one of the main reasons for difficulties and accidents. A friendly grade 1 slope with plenty of soft snow and no inherent risk one day can become a nerve jangling, crampon technique demanding, and scary slope the next day. It is this ground, at grade 1/2 to grade 1, with widely fluctuating degrees of seriousness that is often the objective for folk who are relatively new to the winter game. A realistic awareness of our abilities needs to be developed over time. Can they safely crampon around and move on this slope without slipping, catching a crampon, or tripping themselves up? When moving around on steep slopes in winter, it’s good to develop the habit of having a sub-program that is constantly running in a loop at the back of your mind. It’s simple, and goes like this: “What’s the chance of me slipping here? What happens if I do?” Perhaps the difficult thing for less experienced winter mountaineers is the ability to answer these two questions correctly and honestly! In particular, the second. The answer to the first question depends on technique, confidence and the ability to move in a slow and precise manner if the slope demands it. The answer to the second one is all about the snow conditions under foot. Often when coaching winter skills and winter mountaineering, I see relative novices who are gripped with what they perceive as the steepness and exposure of the slope they are on. To allay these fears, and to try and teach them about perspective and snow conditions, I simply fall over in front of them. Low and behold, I don’t slide off down to the corrie floor at warp factor six, to play pinball with the boulders below! Why not? Because the snow conditions are soft and forgiving. If you fall, you slide slowly or just lie there in a big depression in the snow. I may encourage them to do the same, “fall over, see what happens.” As long as the snow is fairly soft and the slope not too steep, they are often surprised at how slowly they slide or how nothing really happens. This can enable them to move around with more confidence. Remember though, this is a judgement call. The same slope two days later may see us all on a rope and exercising extreme caution! Gaining an understanding of how serious the snow conditions are underfoot, is a fundamental skill that needs to be learnt (the sooner the better), through experience of the different types of snow, from soft fresh snow to boiler plate scary neve. So before committing to serious, steep snow slopes, we need to hone our crampon skills and develop confidence on slopes that are representative, but in a safe manner. Examples of good areas to do this would be short scoured slopes with soft snow at the bottom, or shallower slopes with a nice runout area. Alternatively, set up an anchor and be belayed while you practice your ankle bending French technique on 30 degree bullet proof neve! In all these training instances, the answer to your sub-programme loop should be “no real consequence”.
FEET FIRST Simple ropework on a gully exit
I’ve not talked about axe techniques yet. Yes, it’s good to develop good ice axe technique for winter mountaineering and climbing, and part
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of this does involve learning self-belay and self-arrest. But I must admit, I am a little of the continental school of thought. Let’s learn
skills and venture onto more challenging terrain. We don’t need to be climbers, and the ropework can be kept
to stay on our feet, stay upright, and have good crampon technique
fairly straightforward. A few slings and carabiners, a harness
first. Prevention really is far better than a cure when it comes to
perhaps, (but not essential) along with an axe, can give us enough
slipping or falling in the winter mountains. Also, in reality, it takes a
options to safeguard awkward steps, steep sections and awkward
lot of practice and experience to actually arrest quickly enough, or
cornice exits. If it does go wrong, slips and tumbles and falls will
slow down a slide, on a steep, hard slope.
be the order of the day. If you are the one on the end of the rope
Little and often is a good way to approach learning self-arrest.
trying to negotiate that awkward final scarp slope or cornice, and
Once again, think about friendly slopes and the answer to our sub-
slip, then a slide down the hill will happen. Hopefully however, this
programme if it goes wrong. If you do ten or fifteen minutes every
slide will be limited to several metres, rather than several hundred
time you are out in the mountains in your first couple of years, then
metres!
it will develop as an unconscious reaction, which is really what it
As with our footwork and crampon technique, learning some
needs to be. Also, the fun part is that glissading down at the end of
basic winter ropework is best done on ground that you would be
the day can also be used as your self-arrest practice. For safety’s
happy to solo around on. Interesting but easy ground, with no big
sake though, best done with crampons off your feet.
consequence if you blow it. Choose a simple ridge or grade half
Remember as well, self-arrest doesn’t always stop you; it may only
gully with some good natural anchors around. Thinking back to our
serve to slow you down. If this is the case you have to stick with it.
comments on snow conditions under foot, do it when it’s not rock
It will make the crunch at the bottom less serious! Remember, be
hard neve, but friendlier, softer snow. The idea is that you can focus
honest with yourself about the consequences around you.
100 per cent on learning your new rope skills, and not be worrying
LEARNING THE ROPES
too much about slipping or your own personal movement skills. Sure, you may get some odd looks from experienced folk soloing
Because of the seriousness of slips and mistakes in the winter, it
past you on the way down if you are practicing in No4 gully on Ben
makes sense to learn some mountaineering ropework. Some simple
Nevis, but hey, that will be you in a few months’ time.
belay techniques and deploying a rope when the consequences of a slip are too scary to contemplate, is a good skill to have in the winter
MOVING TOGETHER
mountains. It’s also natural progression once you have developed
One misconception I see all the time on the hill, is people thinking
some good movement skills, as you may want to start to use these
they are being safer by moving along together with the rope between them. Moving together with the rope is a high level skill to do correctly. It needs a good understanding of winter mountaineering and a high level of personal competence to do right. There are many different reasons why we do it, all of them requiring a different approach, with each approach providing a different amount of safety. Sometimes the technique provides some safety, sometimes none at all, and if done incorrectly, it’s far more dangerous than if the rope was not there. If in doubt, untie and one person carries it! For example, have a look at the picture here, spot the rope, and ask our little sub-programme question. What is the answer (see picture left)?
THE FUN IS IN THE JOURNEY So get out there, and play around on friendly terrain. Think long and hard about this terrain and what is good for your current skill level. Hone your skills, learn from friends, use a book or do a course or two. The key is to develop yourself through experience, while staying just within your competence zone. Don’t rush onto that scary grade II route you’ve always wanted to do. It will always be there, and will be all the more enjoyable when you cruise up it in a relaxed and confident manner. Don’t ignore the other essential stuff either. Learn about avalanche awareness, make sure you can navigate and consider the winter environment and what needs to be in your rucksack for those ‘just in case’ moments. But be careful, it’s addictive. It will take you to some amazing places. Before you know it you’ll be standing at the bottom of some classic Scottish ice route with two axes in your hands wondering; “How did all this start again?” www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 37
NUTRITION
Staying Power REGISTERED NUTRITIONAL THERAPIST IAN CRAIG PROVIDES SOME ENDURANCE ALTERNATIVES TO THE QUICK SUGAR FIX. These days, we too often talk about ‘active food’ or sports nutrition in terms of brand names - ‘I take this shake or I take that gel’. The phrase ‘keep it real’ is overused in most areas, except where it should be – in our food choices. Using real ingredients means avoiding the fade-out experience as our blood sugar levels drop during the last couple of hours. There are some lessons to be learnt from eating habits of the past masters - corned beef and cheese sarnies and a flask of coffee - but, we can also do better than that. Sandwiches are still convenient, and if made correctly, can be longlasting in the energy department. If it contains a reasonable amount of good quality protein and fat, along with unrefined carbohydrates and some veggies, it helps the slow-burn metabolism that is most important for us on a long day out. A runner may be able to get though a marathon with sugary foods, but they are moving at a much faster metabolic rate and complete their outing much sooner in the day than do most mountaineers. So, think more about fats, and not so much about carbohydrates, for mountain energy. I’m going to divide our food intakes into a ‘mini-meal’ option, and some snacks:
MINI-MEALS If you’re out in the wilderness for the whole day, you will be doing yourself a great disservice by trying to go without solid and sustaining food. I suggest including a lunch, even if it is just a five minute sandwich stop. Even Tour de France riders manage to nibble some solid foods during less strenuous sections of the race, despite the great speed that they travel at. Meals need to be easy to pack and consume, but it is still possible to include protein and ‘good’ fats. Examples are hard-boiled eggs, precooked meat or chicken, cheese, and tinned or smoked fish. Don’t forget the carbohydrates - although they are less important for all-day exercise than for high intensity bursts, they should still be included in good quantities. Easy options are bread, wraps or crackers – for those who are sensitive to wheat; rye, oats and rice make good alternatives. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and pumpkin or butternut can also be carried easily in a sandwich bag. Tupperware expands your options further and it means that you can carry dinner leftovers such as rice, some cooked meat/chicken/ fish/lentils/beans, and vegetables. I’ve seen cyclists in the middle of a 24hr MTB challenge pulling out a leftover Chinese stir-fry – beats crackers and cheese! The carbs, fats and proteins (our macronutrients) take care of our energy (calorie) needs, but we also need micronutrients; vitamins and minerals. They don’t seem as important as the big calorie nutrients, at least not until you consider that biochemical reactions will not proceed without them. These reactions produce the energy to propel our muscles, they make brain chemicals for concentration and clarity of mind, and they produce hormones, antioxidants and immune cells. Therefore, our micronutrients are essential, even just for a short blast up a mountain. Where do you get 38 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
your vitamins and minerals? Fruit and vegetables - where else? In your sandwich, double the volume of chicken with some sliced tomato, rocket, avocado and alfalfa sprouts. If you’re doing the Tupperware option, chuck in some leftover steamed broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, spinach or some salad veggies.
SNACKS When any of my clients exercise for more than about two to three hours, I have them munching on protein bars, flapjacks, bananas, baby potatoes and really anything that takes their fancy. Nuts and seeds are also fantastic snack options – they have a good protein content and are high in essential fats. So, make yourselves a little trail mix, which can include nuts, seeds and dried fruit. Fresh fruit like apples and bananas have always been used in sport, and provide some easy energy as well as their plant-based functions. Other easy examples are salad vegetables like carrots, pepper strips, baby tomatoes and olives. When conditions dip below freezing, you might be faced with frozen sandwiches and snacks by the time lunch comes. The key is insulation – wrap your bag of food within the extra layers of clothes in your pack, keep it close to your back or in an internal jacket pocket, and your hard work during the day should ensure a satiable lunch. Energy and protein bars can also make quite convenient and healthy snacks while you are on the go, but you need to be choosy about which ones. The typical cereal bars, although branded as healthy, are usually packed with refined sugar and processed oils. If you pay a bit more, you can buy bars that are packed full of energy-giving calories, as well as being healthy and nourishing. Read the ingredients’ label and make up your own mind. If you fancy the DIY option, there’s nothing that beats this protein-rich recipe from Rachel Jesson:
PROTEIN POWDER BALLS Ingredients ■ 1 cup of mixed nuts ■ 1 cup of mixed dried fruit ■ 6 large fresh (or rehydrated) dates with 80ml of water ■ 1 heaped tbsp maca powder ■ 1 heaped tbsp hemp powder Method Food process the nuts and dried fruit separately. Food process the dates and water with the maca and hemp powder. Mix all the ingredients together by hand and form into little balls. To stop the balls from sticking, they can be rolled in desiccated coconut, cinnamon or cacao.
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SKIING
Big
in Japan
Photo: Sam Smith
WILL NICOLLS WORKS A WINTER SKI SEASON WITH A DIFFERENCE
J
apan is probably not the first place you think of when
anywhere, only there was more of it. His anecdotes of Japan’s
considering working in the mountains abroad. Do you even
seemingly alien culture further fuelled my desire to go. Obtaining a
consider Japan mountainous? I didn’t. And, who can speak
working holiday visa was the first step to gaining a job ski instructing
Japanese?
in Hakuba. It is one of the better-known ski towns, having played
My fears were quelled as I flew over the island of Honshu,
host to some of the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics. Two trips to the
home to Tokyo. Peak after peak stretched into the distance, white
Japanese embassy in London were required; it was a simple and
summits surrounded by trees, a distinct lack of anything resembling
extremely friendly process. Unlike other embassies I’ve visited for
flat ground. My guidebook purports Japan is in fact 75 per cent
the same purpose, they actually seemed to want me to go to their
mountainous. From the air this seems wholly true. Celebrated
country!
among skiers for ubiquitous powder days, the mountains receive
A working holiday visa costs a princely sum of £20 or thereabouts.
huge amounts of snowfall each year. The more northerly resorts
It is valid for a year and is available for anyone aged between 18
of Hokkaido (the top main island) generally witness knee-deep
and 30. For anyone older, or those who have already used their
snowfalls every day of winter, with waist-deep dumps a couple of
sole working holiday visa, a sponsored visa is required. These are
times a week. Honshu, being more southerly, receives less, though
more difficult to arrange and are dependent upon the applicant’s
more sunshine. I couldn’t wait to get into ‘the white room’.
experience and qualification, normally requiring an employ to have
A good friend had already spent a winter teaching snowboarding
worked for a company previously before they invest in it for you.
in Hakuba. Sam reckoned the snow was as good as any he’d ridden
Most foreigners I spoke to had acquired a job at a ski school; few
www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 39
SKIING
Photo: Sam Smith
intended to stay on for the summer, as the English speaking market
experience something completely different. The ski resorts
recedes during that season. One of the rules of the working holiday
themselves felt so far removed from anywhere else I’ve skied, it’s
visa is that you cannot work in bars, so most foreigners are qualified
hard to convey. Firstly, the mountains were very unique. The ski
instructors, as there is little other work available. A few ski schools
resorts nestle in the rounded foothills of the Alps, only a kilometre
also operate multi-activity summer programmes, so there is a
or two from summits reaching almost 3000 metres. Most of the
possibility of year-round employment.
resorts lie at relatively modest heights, their bases at only 700
Having spent the last few years living in Llanberis, where sheep
metres and tops commonly at 1500 metres. Cold snaps will see
freely roam the high street, I must admit, Tokyo was a bit of a shock.
temperatures plummet to -20, generating incredibly light, fluffy
I’d timed my trip to perfection; it was a public holiday and my hostel
powder. Warm periods result in rain; the proximity to the coast
overlooked the busiest temple in the city. You can imagine how
and low height provide very similar conditions to Scotland. Trees
much fun it was to carry a rucksack, duffle bag and ski bag down a
adorn the slopes, though tree skiing is strictly forbidden apart from
narrow road for a kilometre, chock-a-block with people! Although
at Cortina. Why? I’ve no idea. Nobody does. Even my boss, who is
not being able to read... anything, even road names, I realised it
married to a local, lived there for ten years, and speaks Japanese,
wasn’t intimidating at all, the locals were very helpful and stopped
can’t find out. It’s strange. But it’s Japan!
several times to ask if they could help me. Two English speaking ski schools were established in the Hakuba
Jagged ridges break out from the smooth tops of the ski resorts, beckoning to greater, steeper, deeper and hugely more dangerous
valley, alongside eight ski resorts. The vast majority of clients
things! Advanced and expert skiers with an interest in backcountry
were Australian, with the odd ex-pat here and there. Without
will be both delighted and gutted. Inbounds skiing rarely reaches
the Australians, working a winter would not be viable. From my
anything steeper than 35 degrees, while almost everything out-of-
experiences, few Japanese people can speak English, while none of
bounds lies at roughly 45. A glance at a 1:25000 map reveals the
us could speak Japanese. This is clearly limiting work-wise; finishing
reality. Everything is a terrain trap. A myriad of contour lines cause
a season and hoping to pick up a job elsewhere is wholly reliant
an instant headache, trying to read the lines almost impossible.
upon an English speaking business, and English speaking clients.
Steep re-entrants and gully lines link every aspect, with little chance
Surfing is the other mainstream activity which people visit Japan for.
of escape should one slide. Add to this the steep slopes, average
Outside of these tourist hot spots, it is very difficult to communicate
of 1.5 metres weekly new snow, and you have a recipe for a very
with locals.
exciting time. Then consider ever-changing strong winds and rapid
Having worked in the USA and New Zealand, I wanted to 40 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
fluctuations in temperature. In three months I only managed to ski www.mountainpromag.com
“STUNNING COULOIRS, CLIFF BANDS, ARETES AND TREES CATCH WHEREVER YOUR EYES REST; THERE IS A LIFETIME’S WORTH OF PHENOMENAL SKIING EASILY ACCESSED FROM THE RESORTS. AND OF COURSE, BLANKETED IN PRISTINE POWDER. SO WHAT’S THE CATCH THEN?”
Photo: Sam Smith
in the backcountry three times, as it just wasn’t safe enough to do so. The thought of each does however bring a huge grin to my face; blasting between trees, face shots at every turn, memories that never get old! This is misleading though - had I had use of a car, I
Photo: Will Nicolls
could have driven out of the valley to lower, safer slopes. Avalanche control in resorts was interesting to say the least. Due to conservation policies, bombing is not permitted in most of the Hakuba resorts. As such, ski patrol just ski down and cut the slopes! I think they must just draw straws in the morning; they certainly earn their money! As far as I can see, professional patrollers from abroad would not be able to work in the resorts unless they speak Japanese. It’s completely understandable, but is a shame nonetheless; it must be a brilliant and rewarding place to patrol. That is, as long as you’re not the one who pulls the short straw! If the changeable snow conditions, strange resort policies and relatively limited work opportunities don’t sound that enticing, then getting a job as an instructor is fairly straightforward, even for instructors with no previous experience. Having chatted to other instructors who have worked on Honshu and Hokkaido, it seems there are many ‘rookie’ instructors working alongside fully certified staff and even examiners. Most would agree that pay rates are better than the USA, though not as high as Europe. Group lesson rates are substantially lower than private rates, which can reach £30 hour, though this is a generalisation; each ski school has its own rates. Working in the USA or Europe isn’t working in Japan, though. It’s conventional. It’s not wacky. And this is why you should definitely consider heading out there. Where else do you get a control panel for your toilet? It’s the size of a TV remote, with music, temperature and bidet controls! Then there are the hot springs, or ‘onsen’, as
Photo: Sam Smith
they’re called locally. Gender separated, they’re the perfect end to a day of cartwheeling through steep snow. You pay, walk in and strip. Before getting into the water you’re expected to wash thoroughly; no clothes allowed thereafter. As Brits it feels quite strange to begin, brash even. Aussies love it of course! I can think of a dozen great anecdotes to attempt to give a flavour
For more information For visa information have a look at: www.uk.emb-japan.go.jp For Nagano tourist information: www.go-nagano.net
of the culture. But I’d just be attempting, you need to go and witness
For Hakuba information: www.hakubtourism.jp
it for yourself! I’d say I’ve skied in better resorts and had snow of
For general skiing and travel advice: www.snowjapn.jp
equal quality, though I don’t regret spending three months there at
It’s worth trying to catch the Nagano Fire Festival on the 15th
all. I’d happily go again. The bizarre nature of the country, incredibly
January if you’re out there. You can Google it to find out more; let’s
polite and welcoming people, and endless ski opportunities should
just say it’s another interesting cultural aspect!
appeal to anyone who loves being in the mountains. I rest my case! www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 41
GEAR GUIDE
Soft Shellfor her SOFT SHELL IS A TRICKY CLASS OF OUTDOOR CLOTHING TO PIN DOWN. HOW BREATHABLE, WINDPROOF, WARM OR STRETCHY SHOULD IT BE? MEMBRANE OR NO MEMBRANE? THE ANSWER OF COURSE, DEPENDS ON THE GAMES YOU PLAY. LUCY WALLACE AND DAVID LINTERN INVESTIGATE.
Designed for facing up to full-on winter gnarl, this is one beast of a soft shell. The windproof Gore Windstopper membrane breathes relatively well, even though it is laminated to such a tough and durable fabric, and the deep pile lining is very warm indeed. Berghaus haven’t held back on technical features; there are underarm vents, thumb loops in the elasticated cuffs, a two-way zip, vast harness-friendly pockets, plus Napoleon and sleeve pockets. All this comes at a weight penalty; at 850g, this is definitely not a jacket to be carried all day in the bag. The adjustable hood works best for me under a helmet; it will go over one, but I can’t see over the chin guard when the zip is done up. It’s a great dry weather shell for those who feel the cold. I’m a sweaty type, and found it just too warm for active use. ■ www.berghaus.com
THE NORTH FACE WOMEN’S VALKYRIE JACKET £180 Totally windproof in Gore Windstopper, this is a versatile soft shell that works year-round, as it is relatively lightweight at 585g and not too warm. Despite the chic matt finish and tailored looks, it bristles with technical features, including a superb helmet-compatible hood with stiffened laminated brim, pit zips, huge, harness-compatible pockets and a bicep pocket. The sizing is generous; my Medium sample has long arms and body that will suit tall people. I was impressed with the performance of this jacket in a range of situations. Gore Windstopper has a membrane, so breathability is restricted in favour of windproofing, but the pit zips help a lot. The lightly brushed fleece interior offers some insulation, but mainly serves to manage moisture. I’ve tested it in cool damp conditions walking in the UK, and cold dry weather on a recent climbing trip, and found it a very comfortable and adaptable soft shell for climbing and trekking. Pair it with a cosy insulating layer in icy conditions. ■ www.thenorthface.co.uk 42 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
LOWE ALPINE PERFECT STORM JACKET £120
If like me you run hot, and tend to find most soft BEST BUY shells i ta www.moun a bit clammy for active use, take a look at a membrane-free version such as this, or the Patagonia option also reviewed. To me, the Perfect Storm is the slightly better of the two, as it has a longer, slimmer cut in both the arms and body, and a wired adjustable hood that fits brilliantly over a helmet. Other features include two huge pockets and a Napoleon pocket. The tightly woven Stormweave stretch nylon fabric is highly wind-resistant (but not windproof), breathes better than a membrane, and handles moisture well. It isn’t particularly insulating on its own, but this adds to the versatility, as it can be layered up year-round. The tough exterior and full-on stretchiness make it a brilliant companion on thrutchy rock climbs and scrambles, where flimsier gear could get shredded. I like it for mountain biking - I’ve no fear of stray snags and grazes when razzing about in my local forest. The weight on my scales is 525g. ■ www.lowealpine.com np rom ag.com
BERGHAUS TETON II £180
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GEAR GUIDE
Lightweight, membrane-free soft shells such as this are hardwearing, wind-resistant and extra stretchy. This one from Patagonia is really light at 464g, good not only for roadside cragging, but also Alpine escapades where durability and weight will battle eternally for priority. The features are simple, with two main pockets and a little internal one. The hood is adjustable, with a soft peak that doesn’t offer much protection but keeps the weight down. The fabric is lovely, a very light and supple weave of recycled polyester and spandex. It has a tough outer face, manages sweat well, dries quickly and has a small pack size, making it a very useful bit of kit indeed. ■ www.patagonia.com
Soft shell as a category is a bit of a moving target, and in this issue I’ve allowed my heart to lead me in awarding Ed’s Choice. The Coalesce Hoody is simplicity itself in soft shell format, with a supple Polartec Windbloc membrane. It features harness-compatible pockets, and a minimalist hood that layers under or over a helmet. Lacking in pit zips, venting is an issue, so it isn’t ideal for working up a big sweat in the hills. However, it has been a very comfortable and cosy friend on some cold and breezy days, and I’ve appreciated its fitted design, flexible fabric and low weight (430g), especially when climbing. As a layer EDITOR’S it offers genuine warmth without bulk, and CHOICE the clever cut provides superb freedom of movement. It’s a brilliant cragging and in nta www.mou bouldering soft shell, ideal for taking advantage of that lovely cold weather friction. Of all the jackets tested, it’s the one I want to wear every day, and for me that makes it a winner. ■ www.blackdiamondequipment.com
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PATAGONIA WOMEN’S SIMPLE GUIDE HOODY £120
BLACK DIAMOND WOMEN’S COALESCE HOODY £160
SHERPA ADVENTURE GEAR DEVI HOODED JACKET £140 The Devi Hooded Jacket is all about warmth. With a deeply fluffy lining, and a generous cut that provides lots of room for layers underneath, it is an inviting garment that feels great to snuggle into. The membrane cuts out wind and spindrift, while the fabric retains the softness and flexibility of a fleece. It is pretty hefty (720g on my scales), but for this you really do get a lot of insulation. I found it too hot and chunky for activities that generate lots of sweat, even in cold weather, and too bulky for winter climbing. The design is simple, with a minimalist hood (to be worn under rather than over a helmet), and two small hand warmer pockets. A bicep pocket on the sleeve will take handy items such as a ski pass. This feature is a clue to the jacket’s ideal purpose. It is flexible and tough with lots of freedom to move, great for piste skiing on crisp blue-sky days, or other wintery fun of similar intensity. ■ www.sherpaadventuregear.co.uk
www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 43
GEAR GUIDE
Soft Shellfor him ARC’TERYX GAMMA HOODY £230
EDITOR’S
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This is proving to be pretty much perfectly dialled for the more active fast and light stuff. CHOICE The fabric used is Arc’teryx’s own Fortius 2.0, a four-way stretch which allows full range of movement, especially in the arms where it counts. Water just rolls off - in common with most of in the others here, the face fabric is nigh on waterproof, while the seams are not. So, you get damp nta www.mou eventually, but stay comfortable. The sizing is spot on in my Medium, with room for a baselayer and a thin mid underneath, without compromising climbing mobility. Features-wise, the laminated hood moves nicely with the head and cinches at the back, there’s external storm flaps on the Napoleon pockets, the hard warmers are harness-friendly enough and a perfect size, and the length is short, but not so as to expose the waist. There’s even an arm pocket for ski pass or similar. The inner is zoned: thin fleece on the shoulders and a microgrid on the front panels, and this walks the line between protection from the elements and being breathable enough to dispense with a two-way central zip and pitzips. My only real issue with this is the elasticated sleeves, which are tidy but mean you can’t hitch the sleeves up to the elbow to spill heat. Otherwise, it feels like a soft shell should – a second skin. For active climbing and skiing in high mountains this is nigh on perfect. In a temperamental Scottish winter with some belaying I might want a bit more warmth and length. It’s expensive, but you get what you pay for with the Gamma.
BLACK DIAMOND CRAG HOODY £160 This is tagged as a ‘technical climbing jacket with a casual feel’, which pretty much sums things up. The face exposed to the elements is Polartec Windbloc, which I find less breathable than the Gore’s Windstopper. There are no pitzips here, the centre zip is one-way only, and this combination felt a bit stuffy, but on the plus side it’s pretty impervious to wind and water. The pockets are low on the waist and the tapered sleeves are deftly cut but don’t offer closures, so this is less a strictly technical climbing jacket, and more for local crags and coffee shops. Confirming that impression, there’s a third, zippered internal pocket at the waist, which is useful around town but less handy elsewhere. The hood works well though; it doesn’t really move with the head but offers full visibility, and two internal draw cords at the rim seem to do the job where others need a third at the back. Overall, this is neither fish nor flesh, but it is pretty stylish, and has served me well on my local MTB trails in this year’s very soggy autumn. http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/homepage 44 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
MAMMUT ULTIMATE HOODY £210 A versatile and lightweight shell with some unusual design features. The material is super stretchy Gore Windstopper which shrugs off wind and rain well, and all the drawstrings are inside the jacket, which means there’s not much to snag or pull by accident. The thumbloops are designed so you can take or leave them here, which is good because I prefer not to bother – they just get wet in my experience. The hood is (just about) helmetcompatible, but could use a rear drawcord, but the three torso pockets are more than high enough not to interfere with a pack or harness. Zips are all two-way, and it packs down really small and lightweight at around 500gms. It’s a regular fit and offered an excellent range of movement even while climbing, but the length is on the short side, so those with longer torsos might want to try before buying. The most unusual aspect of this is the elbow to hem pit zips, which means it’s amazing for dumping excess heat, but can feel a bit fussy under a pack. This is barely insulated and has no fleece inner – it’s been great for running in mixed weather, but look elsewhere if you feel the cold or intend belaying in unstable conditions. www.mammut.ch/en/index.html www.mountainpromag.com
GEAR GUIDE
A superb winter-weight shell. Gore Windstopper makes another appearance, this time backed with a microgrid fleece inner, which makes this a warmer option than others here. I like Windstopper for its water-repelling qualities, and true to form this jacket has fought off some very heavy showers with only very minor ingress – it dried quickly too. There are conventional pitzips and the centre zip is two-way, which means dumping excess heat is straightforward enough. The hood offers excellent protection, featuring a rear drawcord and simple, easy-to-use-with-gloves toggles, out of eye’s way, on the outside of the hood. Reflecting its UK heritage, this is longer in the body than some others here, with pockets high on the ribs to avoid harness and rucksack straps. Those pockets are sadly too small for gloves or maps, but there are lots of them - two hand warmers, and two on the chest, for bars, phone, torch and compass. Sizing is on the generous side without being flappy, which allows some layering underneath and a full range of movement in the arms without riding up. Sleeves have standard Velcro fasteners for climbing, and the hem drawcords are out of the way at the back, so they don’t dig into your hips. It’s on the heavy side at 760gms - I wouldn’t want to pack it - but this will be on my back when the snow finally settles in Scotland. www.berghaus.com
SHERPA LOBUTSE £140 Outstanding value and performance here from Sherpa, making this particular ‘Best Buy’ an easy decision. The shell is polyester BEST BUY coupled with spandex, so there’s a nice i ta amount of stretch and www.moun manoeuvrability in this, and it’s good and roomy in the body to allow for layering too. The sleeves are beautifully articulated and have Velcro closures, and the torso is a decent length, so it’s well spec’ed for climbing, alongside a non-restrictive, helmet-compatible hood. Bear in mind that the hood isn’t wired or laminated. A rear drawcord makes a welcome appearance; the face drawcords are weirdly long and dangly - but at least they are inside the jacket, so whiplash isn’t an issue. Otherwise the hood moves with the head and offers perfect visibility and face protection when fully zipped up. The hand warmer pockets are full sized, but could do with being just a touch higher to avoid harness snagging, and there’s an enormous external chest pocket as well. The inner isn’t exactly fleece, but because of that provides a really practical amount of insulation. I found this sat somewhere in the middle of those under test – definitely warmer than the Ultimate, but not as warm as the Berghaus. It doesn’t have pitzips or a two-way centre zip, but overall it’s a very workable middle ground between protection and breathability. Apart from those strangely long hood cords, and the fact that the outer shell isn’t quite as water-resistant as the Windstopper options reviewed, there’s no real reason not to choose this over the best of the rest here. www.sherpaadventuregear.co.uk
np rom ag.com
BERHAUS VALPAROLA £180
FJALLRAVEN KEB JACKET £240 The odd one out, but don’t dismiss it out of hand quite yet. As you’d expect from the Swedish outdoors supremos, there is amazing attention to detail, with stretchy soft shell on the back, chest and arms, and the tougher G-1000 panels where they matter – on the elbows, shoulders and lower sleeves. This canvas-like material can be made waterproof with Greenland Wax, which when regularly applied works very well. Even without, water just rolls off. Sizing is roomy, which is great for layering underneath and freedom of movement, but does mean getting a waterproof over the top is a struggle. The pitzips are really only rib-zips, but there’s not much insulation here so it’s a non-issue. The trade-off for less warmth is great breathability, at least when unwaxed. The hood is, frankly, a design marvel – at half-mast, there’s a high collar and secure chinguard, but fully deployed, it’s polar-style and offers maximum, tunnel-like protection. It is helmet-compatible, albeit at the expense of peripheral vision. However, the stiffened rim that forms the collar can be folded back to give a bit more visibility in Eskimo mode! Massive chest pockets, Velcro sleeve adjusters and external storm flaps on the front zips complete the pretty-as-a-picture. Given that enormous hood and general sizing, I wouldn’t wear this for mountaineering, but for bushcraft, forestry or moorland operations, where fabrics need to be durable as well as breathable, it’s a bomber, if expensive choice. www.fjallraven.co.uk www.mountainpromag.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 45
GEAR GUIDE
Ski Touring Showcase IT’S THE PERFECT MARRIAGE BETWEEN CLIMBING AND SKIING: AN EASY PASSAGE TO THE TOP, AND THRILLS AND SPILLS ALL THE WAY BACK DOWN. AT LEAST, THAT’S THE SALES PITCH. GETTING THE GEAR RIGHT IS PART OF THE FUN, AND BECOMES ESSENTIAL WHEN CONDITIONS DON’T PLAY BALL. TOM HUTTON & LUCY WALLACE MAKES SOME SUGGESTIONS.
PATAGONIA ALPINE GUIDE PANTS £190 Wet conditions, or even wet snow, usually call for waterproof trousers – think the same as you’d wear for winter climbing. But dryer Alpine conditions, or the odd bluebird day on these shores, demand something more breathable, especially when skinning. And this is where soft shell pants really come into their own. The Alpine Guide Pants are near perfect for the job: wind-resistant, water-resistant enough to cope with the odd tumble on wet snow or moderate snow fall, yet not at all sweaty. They’re stretchy and well-shaped, with articulated knees that make them really easy to move in, whether it’s skiing or climbing; and they’re tough too, so will take a few scrapes. Heavy duty scuff guard ankle patches protect against errant crampons and ski edges. The brushed interior feels great against the skin, and I really like the flat profile waist that fits easily beneath a harness. The ankle cuffs are gusseted and elasticated so slip easily enough over a ski boot or climbing boot, yet aren’t a disaster over more delicate footwear. I like the leg pocket – useful for a map or GPS, yet doesn’t look too contemporary. For hut to hut trips I’d pair them with some featherweight waterproof pants that would hopefully stay in my pack. ■ www.patagonia.com
PETZL CREVASSE RESCUE KIT £125 Okay, so if you restrict your touring to Scotland, Wales or the Lakes, you aren’t going to need this. But anyone who’s venturing onto glaciated terrain will. And even if you’re signing up for an organised tour, there’s a chance they’ll want you to carry at least some kit to help out in a rescue. If you’re heading out independently, then not only do you need the kit, but you’d also be advised to have spent a fair bit of time practising how to use it. This is a great little set, containing everything you’d need to haul a companion or even yourself out of a crevasse (except a rope and harness). The screw gates, of which there are two, are oval-shaped, so much quicker to deploy and easier to use with pulleys etc. And the Micro Traxion – a self-locking pulley that makes up around 50 per cent of the overall cost of the set, is a godsend in any haul system, yet only weighs 85g. In addition you get a Tibloc ascender/locking device, a lightweight Partner pulley and a 120cm sling that will make a foot stirrup for hauling yourself, or can be used to add advantage to a larger pulley system. ■ www.petzl.com 46 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
MAMMUT ELEMENT BARRYVOX £260 I was fortunate enough to spend a day testing transceivers in the purpose-built transceiver park in Chamonix last year. And over a few hours I tried all the main transceivers on the market. A week later, I bought an Element Barryvox. It would be fair to say that it wasn’t perhaps the very best transceiver I tested: I would award that accolade to its big brother, the Pulse Barryvox. But the Element was so close…almost half the price, and for someone who doesn’t use a transceiver regularly, provided me with everything I could want. I was most impressed by the huge range. And then by the accuracy of the arrow and the distance display as it helped me follow the curved flux lines. It got me to the fine search mode as quickly as any of the others. And when you get below 3m, the direction arrow is replaced by four arrows – a simple but important reminder to start the vital bracketing search. It was quick to flag multiple burials, and has the capability to mark them once found. Overall it’s a superb bit of kit, and one I think has the right level of sophistication for most tourers – certainly me. ■ www.mammut.ch
LOWE ALPINE ALPINE ATTACK 35/45 £90 A versatile, Alpine-style pack is essential for big Alpine tours, whether they are hut to hut or just big single days. We ask a lot from them. On a typical hut to hut, you’ll start the tour with a full pack that includes pretty much all your clothing (you probably won’t be wearing much down in the valley), crampons, axe, safety gear, snacks and water. And you’ll possibly even need to strap skis on it for the first few hours, too. And then by the end of your trip, you’ll have possibly made an attempt on a summit where you’ll have removed just about everything and cinched it down as tight as possible just for the climb. The Alpine Attack 35/45 is just about spot-on. Skis can be attached and removed in seconds – vital in bad weather transitions – and axes the same. It’s light considering its carrying capability, with a superbly comfortable back system. Yet it can be stripped to almost nothing with a removable lid and tuck away hip fins that won’t obstruct a harness. The single-buckle design makes it quick to get in and out of; and time can be of the essence when you need to get to skins or harscheisen on a windy col or icy slope. ■ www.lowealpine.com www.mountainpromag.com
GEAR GUIDE
FALKE SKITOURING SOCK ST4 £25 Sock choice is an awkward one when ski touring. Walking socks are designed to protect feet from the repetitive motion of walking, but they don’t usually have much in the way of protection for the shin; ski socks, on the other hand, do a great job of protecting shins from stiff boots, but aren’t really designed for walking. The priority, if you do a lot of skinning, has to be the feet. The motion of skinning is relentless – every step is pretty much exactly the same as the last, and this creates friction and heat. And with nonbreathable plastic boots on, it’s pretty tough to get rid of sweat. Add sweat, friction and heat together, and you get blisters. The ST4s are lovely soft, merino wool blend socks that minimise friction by feeling soft against the skin, even when wet, and by their anatomic shaping that reduces rucking. They wick well so keep moisture away from the skin; and the padding is carefully placed only where it’s needed to make sure things are as cool as possible. And like all good ski socks, there’s plenty of protection on the shin, so you can enjoy those hard-earned turns on the way back down. ■ www.falke.com
THE NORTH FACE KITCHATNA £380 In the Alps, certainly for spring touring, a lightweight waterproof shell might suffice; perhaps with a soft shell or lightweight insulated jacket as the main outer layer. But in the UK, Scandinavia or more wintry conditions, a bombproof shell is essential. The Kitchatna has been designed specifically as a ski mountaineering jacket – seeking that illusive compromise between climbing and skiing. And it makes a pretty decent fist of it; bristling with the kind of features needed for both, yet weighing in at a reasonable 545g, including a zip-out snow skirt. It’s tough – as you’d expect from Gore-Tex Pro – breathable, and it’s also extremely comfortable, even over just a baselayer. The hood is superb: deep, easily adjustable and with a bendy, reinforced peak that really does keep bad weather out of the eyes. The collar’s high too, making it possible to really bury yourself in foul conditions. With goggles on you won’t be exposing much skin to the elements. The hip pockets are perfect – high enough to be clear of pack straps and large enough to swallow a map; and the small Napoleon pocket is useful too. Lengthy pit zips provide ventilation when skinning, when the cuffs can also be pulled up easily too. ■ www.thenorthface.co.uk www.mountainpromag.com
JULBO UNIVERSE GOGGLES £160 Ski goggles are essential for UK touring, yet you can go years in the Alps without ever needing them. Thing is, like a good pair of over gloves, you don’t realise just how much you’ll appreciate them until things get really bad, and then boy do you need them. The Universals fit the bill brilliantly for me. The Zebra Light lens – basically photochromatic – lightens and darkens according to available light, offering protection from category one to category three. This makes them perfect for bad light, like a typical Scottish white-out, where they’ll protect your eyes from the needle-like ice and snow crystals; and the yellow tint will help with definition. Yet they are still good for shorter stints under clear skies –for example a descent, where they’ll feel a lot more secure on your head than glasses, and will also prevent wind getting in your eyes. They are well thought-out, with a very minimalist frame that affords great all-round visibility, and a comfy, easily adjustable strap. There’s plenty of airflow, and the lens is treated with an anti-fog coating, so overall they don’t fog too badly either. ■ www.julbo-eyewear.com
OSPREY KODE ABS 22+10 £120 Avalanche airbags haven’t made a huge impression on touring. Mainly, no doubt, because of the weight; but perhaps also because the amount of exposure can be more easily mitigated by the fact that tourers spend most of the time travelling very slowly, even though they will usually be off-piste. But for shorter day tours, or lift-assisted back-country access, where a small pack is usually carried rather than a typical Alpine climbing one, an ABS won’t feel quite such a burden, and obviously could be a lifesaver. The Kode 22+10 ABS is an excellent ski pack by itself. It has an excellent harness that really holds the load steady – essential if you’re really trying. And I like the two compartment design that means wet items such as skins, or shovel and probe, can be stored separately to dry items like clothing. Skis are easily attached diagonally for those cramponing sections, and a helmet can also be clipped in place. But the real key thing about this pack is its compatibility with an ABS Vario Base Unit, turning it from an excellent ski pack into an ABS pack that’s perfect for big days or shorter tours. Note that the ABS Vario Base Unit will set you back around £500. ■ www.ospreyeurope.com
JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 47
GEAR GUIDE
AVALANCHE! BY ROBERT BOLOGNESI (CICERONE) £7.99 Nothing will improve your avalanche safety skills more than a dedicated course, and I would definitely advise all ski tourers to invest time and money in one. But this book is excellent as a beginning, or reminder. It’s small – certainly small enough to slip in a ski boot or similar, to make sure you pack it and read it on every trip. And it’s packed with information; from personal accounts of real life avalanches to assessing risk for yourself, and more importantly, offering some solid tips on how to reduce that risk. On top of all this, it’s supplied with a Nivo Test: a small card that can be carried in a pocket or a pack that asks 25 questions related to the conditions you are encountering. It then cumulates the answers using a rotating disc that then offers you an evaluation of the risk. It may sound gimmicky, and perhaps in some ways it is. This came to me recommended by a mountain guide highly experienced in avalanche safety. And it does make you ask yourself all the right questions, whether you want to rely on the evaluation of the test or not. Essential reading. ■ www.cicerone.co.uk
ORTOVOX KODIAK SHOVEL £69 Alongside probe and transceiver, a shovel forms part of the holy trinity of avalanche safety gear. Hopefully it is the only one of the three that will see regular use in anger, making speedy shelters, or excavating layers for snowpack information. For avalanche rescue, the Kodiak is an excellent choice because rapid snow movement is the primary concern. The 3.1 litre bucket eats snow faster than any other I’ve tried, and the topnotch blade is very sharp and strong, coping well with icy layers. The D grip handle is comfortable and aids effective digging. The shaft is oval for added durability, and can be fitted to the bucket in two ways; the traditional shovel assembly, or perpendicular to the blade to create a giant hoe for scooping and dragging debris. That big bucket does take up a bit of extra room in the rucksack, but it packs away surprisingly neatly. At 790g, lighter options are available, but the additional weight gives buried victims more chance, making this a particularly good option for outdoor professionals. LW ■ http://www.ortovox.com 48 Mountain Pro | JANUARY 2015
ARC’TERYX ALPHA SV GLOVES £220 Okay, so £220 is serious money for a pair of gloves. Even if they can effectively be used as three pairs, as the Alpha SV is basically a fleece inner glove and a Gore-Tex Shell that can be worn separately or together. I find this two-layer approach just perfect for ski touring. The fleece inners are ideally suited to skinning up – warm enough to take the chill away from the air, yet ultra-breathable, so no sweaty hands. They are also dexterous enough to wear on transitions – stripping or applying skins or adjusting boot buckles. And the Gore-Tex and leather shell gloves are a true work of art, with shaped fingers that make them look positively 3D in comparison to most gloves. These can obviously be pulled on over the fleece for warmth and weatherproofing, but are also excellent on their own for descending on wet afternoon snow, when the full monty would just be too hot. The leather is super supple and grippy enough to hold a pole halfway down its shaft on traverses. And the single-hand drawcord makes putting them on and off a lot easier than most gloves out there. ■ www.arcteryx.com
BLACK DIAMOND CARBON 240 QUICKDRAW PROBE £69.99 Probe choice usually comes down to a decision based on length versus weight, with every centimetre mattering in the search for avalanche burial victims. This is a tough decision when selecting an item of gear you hope will stay in the bag, as those extra centimetres add weight, but could be the difference between life and death. Enter the Black Diamond Carbon range of extremely lightweight probes. The carbon fibre shaft is as stiff and strong as aluminium, but weighs significantly less. It also feels warmer in the hand, although this will barely be a consideration in an emergency. BD have tinkered with their deployment action and the latest version is slicker than ever, with everything slotting in to place in one simple movement straight out of the bag. The tip is protected with an alloy point that is slightly wider than the shaft, making it easier to push in and out of packed snow. Bright markings indicate probe depth in cms. Traditionally, full burials are rare in UK avalanches, but recent hard winters are changing that view. In the Alps and beyond, 240cm is considered a minimum length, and Black Diamond makes a 320cm version too. Weight for 240cm: 271g. LW ■ http://blackdiamondequipment.com www.mountainpromag.com
GEAR GUIDE
Mountainteering Ice Tools IN THE RUN-UP TO WINTER, LUCY WALLACE HAS BEEN HAVING FUN AT HER LOCAL INDOOR ICE WALL, WHILE GETTING TO GRIPS WITH SOME OF THE BEST ALL-ROUND TECHNICAL TOOLS ON THE MARKET. PETZL QUARK ICE AXES £195 EACH The Quarks are genuinely versatile, at home on both steep ice and technical routes. With various modular components and bolt-on options, they are customisable and potentially very lightweight - suitable for Alpinists and ice climbers at any grade. My test pair came with Griprests and Trigrests for leashless climbing, with the standard hammer and adze fitted. The Griprests are really comfy, but I found that the Trigrest was sore on my small fingers, contributing to a bit of pump. It is useful placed further up the shaft for swapping hands and daggering. The position of the grip rest is easily adjusted in extremis, or, like all the bolt-on components, can be removed completely with a hex key. Moving up the tool, the shaft has a moderate arc for clearing bulges. If these were my own pair I would add extra grip here for daggering. At the business end is Petzl’s T rated ICE pick. I love that these lightweight tools have such a bomber pick - a big confidence booster for Scottish routes, where fat ice is rare. It is really aggressive on hard ice, and with a fearsome set of teeth that make extractions more awkward than some. The hammer and adze supplied are adequate for mountaineering purposes, and can be removed and a spacer added for ice routes. And so we come to the nitty gritty; the swing… admission time, like many ice climbers, the quality of my sticks is a work in progress. Initially when using the Quarks in their basic set-up, my swing felt alarmingly imprecise. I’m used to using heavier tools, and rely on a bit of additional welly to power my placements. The picks themselves bite the ice beautifully when the placements are good. It is possible to adapt the Quarks with pick weights, but I didn’t get a chance to try these for this test. However, over the course of a few climbing sessions, they really grew on me, I got the hang of the balance, enjoying solid placements, and my swing improved too, so I feel these tools actually taught me something. Weight with adze and hammer is 550g, with everything removed a mere 460g each. ■ www.petzl.com
EDELRID RIOT HAMMER AND ADZE £155 EACH These modular tools felt well-balanced and comfortable in the hand from the word go. They are excellent all-rounders - suitable for ice and technical mountaineering, and slightly heavier than the Quarks, at 595g each. The additional weight and narrow shaft contribute to a swift and precise swing, with good first-time placements. It is possible to add head weights for really hard ice, but I’m not convinced it would be necessary for most people, unless the adze and hammer were removed for pure ice climbing (blind washers to replace these are also available). The ergonomic rubber grip is relatively short - I’d definitely be adding extra grip to the shaft, but the narrow diameter suits my small hands perfectly. My test pair came with two sizes of hand rest for leashless climbing - easily swapped over to protect the knuckles of bigger hands. The shaft is a just little straighter than the Quarks, with a gentle curve two thirds of the way up for negotiating bulges. At the head, the removable hammer and adze are business-like and efficient. The adze is pretty big for a technical tool, and is flush with the top of the axe for effective strokes through snow and ice. I like the way that the flat head sits in a gloved hand; although overall this tool is far from ideal for traditional plunging and self-arrest, it is more comfortable in this mode than many of its competitors. The T rated pick has a long toothed edge, with fierce backward facing serrations that ease progressively towards the relatively clean tip. Overall this is an adaptable pair of tools that will cope with a wide range of routes and gradients, from technical mountaineering to steep ice. They felt neatly balanced in the hand, with a very forgiving swing for easy placements. I loved them even before I saw the price, which is good value for a well thought-out set of technical tools. ■ www.edelrid.de
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 49
GEAR GUIDE
Cutting Edge LUCY WALLACE HAS BEEN CHECKING OUT THE LATEST PRODUCTS FOR CLIMBERS AND MOUNTAINEERS, AND FINDS THAT THIS SEASON’S INNOVATIVE GEAR IS LIGHT, TOUGH AND WATER-RESISTANT. BERGHAUS ULVETANNA HYBRID JACKET £250 This state-of-the-art hybrid down and synthetic insulated jacket is fresh from the MtnHaus design team. Body mapped zones of Hydrodown (down with a hydrophobic treatment) insulate the core, biceps and top of the head. Elsewhere Berghaus’s proprietary Hydroloft Elite Pro synthetic fibres help manage moisture and dump heat. The body mapping is repeated with Quantum Pertex shell around the down areas, and heavier stretch Microlight Pertex over the synthetic sections. I tested the ladies’ version, taking it out hillwalking and indoor ice climbing, and found the stretch panels have a versatile fitted shape that layers easily over a soft shell or under a hardshell. It’s not exceptionally hot, above freezing it works well for lunch stops and standing around chatting. In more extreme conditions it’s a warm layer for moving about rather than a belay jacket, and the combination fill copes well with damp and sweat. The low profile fits under a harness, and I found it offered no hindrance when climbing. At around 340g for the women’s version, it is light and understated, with elastic cuffs and two torso pockets. The minimalist hood is adjustable and helmetcompatible, but if conditions were really bad I’d be inclined to wear it under rather than over a lid for extra warmth, which the simple design comfortably allows, with the elastic that frames the face, sealing in heat. In summary, it’s tough, light, cosy and very versatile: purpose-built for Alpine adventures, and ideal for UK winter mountaineering too. LW ■ www.berghaus.com
FORCE 10 ALPINE 35 RUCKSACK £90 The Alpine 35 is the mid-size in F10’s new range of waterproof climbing packs, ideal for mountaineering days, with an external rope storage system. While it retains the classic tube shape that climbers prefer, there is plenty of innovation to be found in the eye-catching design. Because it is waterproof, the main compartment is accessed via a backward facing, water-resistant zip rather than draw cord and buckles, the knock-on effect of which is a lid pocket that flops forward rather than backwards when opening the main compartment. This alters the balance of the pack when it is propped up on the ground, so takes a bit of getting used to (don’t drop your rucksack). The harness is Spartan, with an unfussy stiffened back and soft shoulder straps for a minimalist carry. It’s a unisex design and I’ve found it fits my narrow frame with no problems. The waist belt is a plain, removable webbing strap, perfect for wearing with a climbing harness. On the outside are a series of daisy chains and removable straps that can be used to engineer all sorts of outside storage. The double buckle system on the straps is unusual, but it means that the straps can be rigged in any way you please, as you are not restricted to attachment points on the rucksack. I’ve found the rope carrying system works best if you leave the coils long enough to be lashed in place or threaded with the side compression straps. The pack is incredibly light at just under a kilo, despite being made of tough 500D waterproof Cordura, with fully taped seams. I’ve not had it long, but it has already endured two weeks of desert mountaineering (prickly vegetation) and a week of being dragged through a Scottish bog, and is holding up well to the abuse. LW ■ www.force-ten.co.uk
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JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 51
TRIED AND TESTED
Tried & Tested
CHANTELLE KELLY SPOKE TO PROFESSIONAL ROCK CLIMBER ROBBIE PHILLIPS, A FORMER MEMBER OF THE BRITISH CLIMBING TEAM. Robbie discovered his love of climbing through the Duke of Edinburgh Award age 15, and shortly after joined a climbing club. He began training regularly with coaches and entered the British Indoor Climbing Championships as his first competition, later joining the Great British Climbing Team to compete nationally and internationally. Robbie has been climbing for 10 years, visiting some of the world’s top climbing destinations. He’s sponsored by Edelrid and Evolv. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF CLIMBING EQUIPMENT? Has to be my beautiful blue Edelrid Anniversary 9.7mm (80m) rope! That thing is a joy to climb on, slick and lightweight, yet durable. Ropes are everything in climbing, they save your life. WHAT IS PARTICULARLY ESSENTIAL TO YOU? Comfort! Obviously there’s a lot of brands punting performance and sacrificing comfort for that edge on your hardest climbs, but why can’t www.mountainpromag.com
you have both? My Cyrus is the most comfortable harness I have ever worn - it did me well sitting in it for days up a steep mountain cliff in a thunderstorm. It’s my top choice for hard sport, trad and Alpine climbing. WHAT PIECE OF KIT DO YOU OFTEN USE THE MOST? Either my chalk bag or my Edelrid Pants (not underpants!). Although I have eight year-old sized hands, I have chunky fingers and I can’t fit my hands in small chalk bags. Edelrid do a bigger bag with a wide opening that makes quick chalk-ups easy on hard climbs. My Edelrid Pants are durable, warm and stylish, and allow complete range of movement on the wall. IS THERE A PARTICULAR BRAND YOU ALWAYS USE, OR WOULD RECOMMEND? Edelrid are the main brand I use. They have a real connection with the sport of climbing as a multi-disciplinary activity, and respect the transitions between the styles to create some
truly unique products. WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING CLIMBING SHOES; ANY YOU WOULD RECOMMEND? There are a few brands that stand out on top, but for me the one shoe that I have come to rely on for maximum comfort, durability and performance is the Evolv Shamans. I recommended a lot of climbers to these shoes, and it seems that they are never disappointed. In particular for sport climbing and bouldering, they function really well, but I used them with enormous success on hard granite cracks and technical Alpine face climbs as well.
For more information about Robbie Phillips, visit his website: www.robbiephillips.co.uk, or follow him on Twitter: @ robbiephillips_ JANUARY 2015 | Mountain Pro 53
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