1. MproOctober2014

FOR THOSE THAT WORK AND PLAY OUTDOORS

WWW.MOUNTAINPROMAG.COM OCTOBER 2014

INTERVIEW: JOHN MCCUNE

Ski Mountaineering Wildlife Crime Life of an Arctic Guide GEAR REVIEWS: HARDSHELLS, BOOTS AND HELMETS

WELCOME

A new issue of Mountain Pro, and a new editor.

Phil Turner has left for the high seas and a new post with the merchant Navy, and leaves the magazine in fine fettle.

Whilst there’s much to sing the praises of at Mountain Pro HQ, I’ll be looking to diversify a little too, with more conservation content and a renewed focus on mountain heritage and hill culture.

To start with, there’s a fascinating news item from the North Face of the Ben, where climber Dave MacLeod has been working with BMG Mike Pescod and Scottish Natural Heritage to film a new geological survey undertaken for the Nevis Partnership. The John Muir Trust make a stand for wild land in court and need our help to do so, and our gear editor Lucy Wallace reports back on the recent Gathering of the Mountain Rescue clans in Aviemore. There’s two inspiring and very different films on offer – a short, sharp dose of winter reality from instructor Keith Ball and Nick Bullock, and North Colour Film’s beautiful, glacially paced ode to Suilven.

I’m very pleased to be showcasing Vertebrate Publishing’s fantastic portfolio of mountaineering literature, kicking off with ‘The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland’. I’m equally pleased to have instructor Di Gilbert own up to her key role in the burgeoning Ski Mountaineering scene in Scotland. We continue the Scottish theme this time around with another extract, an enticing slice of mountaineering fiction from Alex Roddie.

Elsewhere, outdoors journalist Felicity Martin gives an overview of the legalities and otherwise of wildlife trapping, baiting and poisoning, whilst Finland based outdoorsman Hendrik Morkel reports back on the busy life of an arctic guide.

Gear wise, there’s a smorgasbord of winter hardshells, boots and wafer-light climbing helmets. I’m looking forward to a more stable winter season than last year, so we can get out there and use them! We’re aiming to inform and entertain those of you who live and breathe the outdoors, so please keep in touch via twitter and facebook and let us know what we’re doing right, and what we can do better.

See you on the hill,

Da vid

Editor

Published by Target Publishing Ltd, The Old Dairy, Hudsons Farm, Fieldgate Lane, Ugley Green, Bishops Stortford CM22 6HJ t: 01279 816300 f: 01279 816496 e: info@targetpublishing.com www.targetpublishing.com

CONTENTS NEWS

6

INTERVIEW: JOHN MCCUNE

16

BOOK REVIEWS

18

SKI MOUNTAINEERING IN SCOTLAND

21

THE GREAT MOUNTAIN CRAGS OF SCOTLAND

24

WILDLIFE DETECTIVES

28

THE AHTOLL EXPEDITION

32

THE LIFE OF AN ARCTIC GUIDE

34

GEAR REVIEW: HARDSHELLS

38

GEAR REVIEW: BOOTS

44

GEAR REVIEW: HELMETS

47

CUTTING EDGE

49

TRIED AND TESTED

50

CONTRIBUTORS Di Gilbert works full time as an Independent Mountaineering instructor, based in the Cairngorm National Park. She has never had a proper job and it is unlikely that this will change now. Di has stood on the bottom of the world without falling off, she has stood on top of the world without suffering from vertigo, climbed the world’s 7 summits and completed all 282 Munros. She represented Great Britain in the International Ski Mountaineering Federations World Championships and is a Director of Skimo Scotland, the home of ski mountaineering racing in Scotland. www.skimoscotland.co.uk

Having worked as a outdoor writer and photographer for 15 years, Felicity Martin has explored most corners of Scotland and many of the wilder parts of Europe. Her home in Perthshire is surrounded by woods, hills and mountains that offer an infinite variety of walks, bike rides and nature watching opportunities.

Hendrik Morkel has lived in Finland for over 10 years and is getting used to the cold. He has a passion for ice climbing & skiing but also enjoys Fatbikes, Packrafts and a good old-fashioned backpacking trip. He runs the popular outdoors website www.hikinginfinland.com

EDITOR: David Lintern GEAR EDITOR: Lucy Wallace e: lucy.wallace@targetpublishing.com SUB EDITOR: Suzanne Cann GROUP SALES MANAGER: James Lloyd e: james.lloyd@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810069 SALES EXECUTIVE: Chris Kemp e: chris.kemp@ targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810083 DESIGN: Leann Boreham e: leann.Boreham@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810075 PRODUCTION: Hannah Wade e: hannah.wade@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 810076 MARKETING MANAGER: James Rix e: james.rix@targetpublishing. com t: 01279 810079 MANAGING DIRECTOR: David Cann e: info@targetpublishing.com t: 01279 816300 Some material may be speculative and/or not in agreement with current medical practice. Information in FSN is provided for professional education and debate and is not intended to be used by non-medically qualified readers as a substitute for, or basis of, medical treatment. Copyright of articles remains with individual authors. All rights reserved. No article may be reproduced in any form, printed or electronically, without wriiten consent of the author and publisher.

Copying for use in education or marketing requires permission of the author and publisher and is prohibited without that permission. Articles may not be scanned for use on personal or commercial websites or CD-ROMs. Published by Target Publishing Limited. Colour reproduction & printing by The Magazine Printing Company, Enfield, Middx. EN3 7NT www.magprint.co.uk . ©2012 Target Publishing Ltd. Produced on environmentally friendly chlorine free paper derived from sustained forests. To protect our environment papers used in this publication are produced by mills that promote sustainably managed forests and utilise Elementary Chlorine Free process to produce fully recyclable material lin accordance with an Environmental Management System conforming with BS EN ISO 14001:2004. The Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for the advertisements in this publication.

COVER PHOTO: DAVID LYONS EWING

FILM

Suilven NORTHCOLOUR FILMS PRESENT A VISUAL TRIBUTE TO ‘THE PILLAR’, ONE OF SCOTLAND’S MOST UNIQUE MOUNTAINS. When you first catch sight of Suilven, normally from the small village of Elphin on your way up through Assynt to Lochinver, you can’t help feel a little unsettled. Its monolithic, shark-like structure sits looking out to sea, quite alone from the surrounding mountains, giving it a brooding sense of solitude.

Filmmakers James Anderson and Niall Walker said ‘The logistics of this project were challenging. We embarked on the project by climbing Suilven’s surrounding mountains so that we could film and survey it from

all angles and work out the best way to attack it when the time came. It turned out all the surrounding mountains came with their own unique challenges, especially in the heart of the Scottish winter. We hope that our short film will inspire others to venture out to experience the grand splendour of the environment for themselves.’

The filmmakers are currently in preproduction for a sequel, filming on and around Liathach in Torridon. The Original Soundtrack is by Giles Lamb.

https://vimeo.com/55543462

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 5

NEWS

In the News Scientists and mountaineers un A team of scientists and mountaineers have made new discoveries on the highest mountain in the British Isles. Ben Nevis has been the site of one of the most extensive and logistically challenging surveys to have taken place on a Scottish mountain.

Project Manager, Tristan Semple of the Nevis Landscape Partnership, said “it has been a real privilege to add to the scientific understanding of our most iconic national landmark. The multi-disciplinary team of experts have been abseiling hundreds of metres down cliff faces and using new technology to uncover some of the mountain’s remaining secrets. This is

only the first stage of a three-year survey and we have already made some very significant finds.”

Botanists, geologists, meteorologists and mountaineers have been drawn to this unique location for more than two centuries. However, much of this European designated Special Area of Conservation has remained inaccessible till now. Around 125 hectares of the mountain, known as the North Face, present a formidable barrier of 600m cliffs, gullies and buttresses.

These gigantic monoliths were gouged out during the last ice age, when only the highest summits would have protruded above the ice sheet as ‘nunataks’. The present shape of the mountain is geologically very young, perhaps only a few tens of thousands of years old. However, the rocks that form the steep cliffs of the North Face are much older and were formed during explosive volcanic activity around 420 million years ago during the Devonian period.

Lead survey geologist, Roddy Muir of Midland Valley Exploration, commented “the team of professional mountaineers have been gathering new data with our recently developed FieldMove Clino App, as well as getting us onto the previously unrecorded cliff faces. The emerging data will be used in structural modelling software and will bring greater understanding of the processes which formed and changed the mountain.

Abseiling the sheer rock faces which descend from the whaleback summit plateau has resulted in some important and unexpected geological discoveries. Breccias, formed by explosive eruptions have been located at significantly higher altitudes than existing geological maps show. The team have also been able to measure the original orientation of the ancient lavas where these

“IT IS LIKELY THAT WE MAY HAVE TO REVISE THE TRADITIONAL MODEL OF A CLASSIC CALDERA COLLAPSE.”

Collapsed neve. D Macleod.

Slow down...

6 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

rocks flowed out of the volcanic fissure.

The team of professional mountaineers used nearly 3,000 metres of rope, donated by Mammut, to access the steep terrain.

British Mountain Guide, Mike Pescod, said “the main logistical challenge has been keeping the scientists safe whilst ensuring minimal impact on the fragile habitats within the Site of Special Scientific Interest. During the training week we developed an ecologically light-touch approach which incorporates mountain rescue systems alongside alpine and big-wall climbing techniques”.

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NEWS

cover new finds on Ben Nevis

North Face Survey Team.

D. Macleod The first Alpine Saxifrage discovered on Ben Nevis. A. Halewood

After a winter of record snowfall the mountain has a distinctly alpine appearance.

Snowfields remain in many gullies and are scattered around the upper scree slopes. These have compacted into dense, ice hard névé which is the first stage in the formation of glaciers.

Sheets weighing hundreds of tons, with tunnels and fissures known as bergschrunds, present another set of challenges. Such hazards are common in arctic and alpine environments but are extremely unusual during a British summer.

Ben Nevis, standing 1344m above sea level, supports the greatest altitudinal range of habitats within the British Isles and has been attracting Botanists since 1767. Lead survey botanist, Ian Strachan, said “many of the rare Arctic-Alpine species we are searching for are relics from soon after

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the last ice age. Ben Nevis and a few other peaks in the Scottish Highlands provide the most southerly refuge for some of these species which can only survive due to the altitude and presence of semi-permanent snow fields.”

After a week of intensive training by botanists, and with the support of Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) the mountaineers have been able to identify new locations for nationally rare and scarce plant species. Many new populations of high priority species such as Highland Saxifrage, Tufted Saxifrage and Wavy Meadow Grass have been recorded. Cathy Mayne, of SNH, said “the survey has exceeded all our expectations. Not only have we gathered potentially ground-breaking geological data and significantly added to the known populations of arctic-alpine species, the team have also discovered Alpine Saxifrage, which has never been found on the mountain before. Who knows what we might uncover over the next two years”.

The survey is also the subject of a film which will be premiered at the Fort William Mountain Festival in 2015. The project, which is led by the Nevis Landscape Partnership working in collaboration with Midland Valley Exploration, is funded by Scottish Natural Heritage, Heritage Lottery Fund, The Highland Council and is sponsored by equipment manufacturer Mammut.

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 7

NEWS

AVALANCHE AWARENESS LECTURE TOUR The nights are drawing in and ski season is just around the corner. Knowledge is the best tool for keeping safe off-piste, and this lecture from The North Face in association with Snow+Rock and the Ski Club of Great Britain, will help you brush-up your understanding of winter back-country snow travel.

Following last year’s series, Ian Sherrington, Chief Instructor at Glenmore Lodge, Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre is back by popular demand. Ian is an International Mountain Guide, a ski instructor and works as a tutor for Snowsports UK. He has a wealth of outdoor leadership experience and has led ski tours in Scotland, Europe & Pakistan.

Whether you are an experienced ski mountaineer, keen resort boarder or heading off piste for the first time, this lecture is a great start for making sense of the avalanche dynamic. Ian will look at the complexity of the challenges faced and offer solutions that work through a number of processes to raise hazard awareness and better management of the risk. The lecture will devote time to sharing how experts make decisions and how we can all use similar processes to plan and execute great days out. Topics covered will include: • A look into the areas that influence the avalanche dynamic; snowpack, weather, terrain and human factors • The importance and skills of good planning • Successful behaviour in the mountains • Technology – a positive opportunity?

Ian’s experienced knowledge and captivating presenting style together with great photos, videos, real-life examples and personal experiences make this lecture interesting, practical and memorable thereby increasing your margin of safety on snow and especially back-country.

At each lecture there are spot prizes of The North Face® equipment to be won and there’s an overall series prize to win a VIP shopping experience worth £1000.

All proceeds from the lectures will go to Disability Snowsport UK. In 2013 the lecture series raised over £2,000 for the charity.

Dates and Locations Monday Nov 24th Port Solent, Hampshire, The Boardwalk, Port Solent, Portsmouth, PO6 4TP Tuesday Nov 25th Bristol, Shield Retail Centre, Link Road, Filton, Bristol, BS34 7BR Wednesday Nov 26th Manchester Chill Factore, Trafford Way, Trafford Quays, Manchester, M41 7JA Monday Dec 1st London Covent Garden, 4 Mercer St, London WC2H 9QA Tuesday Dec 2nd London Kensington, 188 Kensington High Street, Kensington, W8 7RG Lectures start at 7.00pm Tickets available from www.snowandrock.com/thenorthface £7 non Ski Club members, £5 Ski Club members.

8 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

British Lead and Speed

Britain’s premier lead climbing competition take place at Awesome Walls, Sheffield on 4-5 October, alongside the British Speed Climbing Championships and new for this year - the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup. Britain’s best climbers will battle it out on the brand new super steep wall in Sheffield, all vying for the title of British Lead Climbing Champion. The fastest climbers in the land will be on the speed wall, fighting for the chance to become Britain’s Speed Climbing Champion.

This event will also host the IFSC Paraclimbing Cup, where paraclimbers from all over the world will be coming to compete along side the climbers competing in the BLCC & BSCC. This will be a great opportunity to see some of the best paraclimbers in the world in action and cheer on the GB Paraclimbing Team whilst they are competing on home turf!

Awesome Walls Sheffield is the first climbing wall in England & Wales to be designated as a National Performance Centre - the BMC established the National Performance Centre (NPC) designation in 2012 to encourage the development of climbing walls capable of running national and international competitions.

The Junior and Vets categories of the British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCC) will take place on Saturday 4 October, with the Seniors on Sunday 5 October.

The British Speed Climbing Championships (BSCC) will run on Sunday 5 October with the Juniors competing in between Senior BLCC qualification and the final. The Seniors compete in the afternoon once the Senior BLCC finals have concluded. For more info: https://www. thebmc.co.uk/british-lead-and-speedclimbing-championships-2014

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NEWS

Wild Land Charity takes Scottish Government to task on Stronelairg recognising wild land as an important national asset.

“However, we believe the decision by the Energy Minister to give the go-ahead to Stronelairg without a Public Local Inquiry is not consistent with Scottish Government measures to protect the best areas of wild land from industrialisation.

“Because of the scale of the development, and the breadth of opposition to it, we believe it should have been the subject of a Public Local Inquiry. In the absence of proper democratic scrutiny, our Trustees feel we had no choice but to seek a judicial review of the decision.

The John Muir Trust is asking for a judicial review of the Scottish Government’s decision - by Energy Minister Fergus Ewing - to grant consent to a 67-turbine wind farm in the Monadhliath Mountains without any Public Local Inquiry.

The decision to consent was taken in the face of opposition from the government’s own advisory body, Scottish Natural Heritage; from the Cairngorm National Park Authority; and from three out of the four local councillors in Strathspey and Badenoch. Written objections to the development from the public outnumbered supporting letters by a margin of almost 15 to 1.

John Hutchison, Chairman of the Trust said: “Over the past year, the Scottish Government has made ground-breaking progress by adopting the new Wild Land Areas map of Scotland, and, for the first time,

“THIS IS THE LARGEST-EVER WIND FARM APPROVED IN THE HIGHLANDS, AND WAS OPPOSED BY BOTH THE GOVERNMENT’S OWN ADVISORY BODY ON NATURE AND LANDSCAPE, SNH, AND BY THE CAIRNGORMS NATIONAL PARK AUTHORITY.” “The Trust is now seeking donations to help us take forward this legal action.”

Stronelairg is in the heart of the Monadhliath Mountains, which had been proposed as a Core Area of Wild Land by SNH at the time of the Energy Minister’s decision to approve the scheme. Subsequently, the Scottish Government asked SNH to remove Stronelairg and the surrounding area from the final version of the Wild Land Areas map.

To donate please visit https://www.jmt.org/stronelairg.asp

AVOIDING A TERRAIN TRAP FOR THE WORLD’S BUSIEST SUMMIT A well-funded, long-sighted strategy to tackle the problems and risks caused by booming numbers of visitors on Snowdon is needed, says the British Mountaineering Council (BMC).

The call comes after the Snowdonia National Park Authority agreed to remove ‘false paths’ from the summit of Snowdon. Following the conclusions of the coroner during the inquest into the tragic death of Dylan Rattray, 21, on Snowdon, the park authority agreed to remove ‘misleading’ paths on the mountain such as those leading into hazardous terrain.

The BMC believes this approach is misguided and reflects short-term thinking. With Snowdon seeing 477,000 walkers in 2013, a long-term plan is needed to address the key problems of preventable accidents and environmental damage. Central government funding to the park should also be upped, to reflect Snowdon’s status as Britain’s busiest mountain.

Elfyn Jones, BMC access & conservation officer for Wales, said: “Many of these visitors are unprepared casual walkers, and there has been a significant increase in the number of avoidable callouts to rescue teams, parking problems, traffic congestion and litter.

“The current practice of managing the paths by reacting to individual problems such as ‘landscaping’ and smoothing out natural obstacles has done nothing to alleviate the issues. If anything it has created a bigger problem as many walkers and visitors are under the impression that Snowdon is a “tourist attraction”, similar to a fully waymarked country park trail. User groups such as the BMC have had little opportunity to input into the strategic management of the mountain.

“The park authority should prioritise education and awareness-raising, putting effort into ensuring visitors are better prepared, instead of treating Snowdon as if it was an urban environment and attempting to physically engineer it into being ‘safe’. This is simply impossible.”

The BMC also pointed out that the Snowdonia park authority’s funding, like all national parks across the UK, has been drastically cut in recent years.

It said that to properly manage a mountain of Snowdon’s popularity would require a substantial investment in money and resources.

Mr Jones said: “Snowdon poses unique and special problems for any organisation trying to manage and conserve its special qualities. With over 477,000 walkers on its main paths each year it is arguably the busiest and most popular mountain in the world. It needs a vision and a funded work programme that’s agreed and shared with all stakeholders to provide the resources required to protect the special qualities of this unique and often abused mountain area.”

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 9

NEWS

MICK FOWLER TO ATTEMPT ANOTHER HIMALAYAN FIRST ASCENT

Leading British mountaineer Mick Fowler has announced details of his next major objective. Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden will attempt a first ascent of the north face of Hagshu (6,515m) in the East Kishtwar region of the Indian Himalaya. The expedition is being supported by Berghaus and the Mount Everest Foundation.

During over 30 years of expeditions, Mick has many first ascents to his name and is a two time winner of the Piolet d’Or. He has a full-time job and fits in his climbing trips around the work he does for HM Revenue

and Customs. For Hagshu, Fowler has assembled the same team that was successful on Shiva in 2012. He will be accompanied by regular expedition partner Paul Ramsden, with Steve Burns and Ian Cartwright also climbing and providing essential back up.

Hagshu is to Kishtwar what the Matterhorn is to Zermatt. According to the latest Indian survey, it is the highest peak in East Kishtwar, and after numerous attempts it was first climbed (twice) in 1989. Despite many attempts since, there have been no further ascents. The north face remains unclimbed and is renowned as a major outstanding mountaineering challenge in that part of the Himalaya.

In the late 1980s/early 1990s, the north face of Hagshu was the target of several expeditions led by John Barry, ex SAS mountaineer and one time head of Plas-y-Brenin. The high point of these trips was about half way up the face. Regional political troubles effectively prevented access between 1993 and 2010. Hagshu has been attempted at least three times since then with no success.

Mick Fowler comments: “I first spotted Haghsu when making the first ascent of nearby Cerro Kishtwar in 1993 and was reminded what an eye catching peak it is last year while on Kishtwar Kailash with Paul. This spectacular north face is now a plum objective in that part of the world and we are very pleased to have been promised a permit to attempt it by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.”

Following the climb, as soon as the team is able to report back to Berghaus (which is likely to be around 12/13 October), news will appear on www.berghaus.com and be shared on social media platforms.

Gathering of the Clans

A biennial mountain rescue conference for the UK and Ireland took place on the 12th-14th of September in Aviemore.

At the MR Gathering 2014, hundreds of delegates from mountain rescue teams all over the British Isles, most of who are volunteers, met to exchange knowledge, take part in specialist workshops and let down their hair. Most of the workshops took place on the hill, and were blessed with great weather, at training venues in the Northern Corries and at the Falls of Bruar, and were hosted by local Scottish teams and Glenmore Lodge. Participants were trained in the finer points of canyon George McEwan of Mountain Training Scotland facilitates a workshop on rescue, tyroleans, casualty care, search Escorting Casualties from Steep Ground in Coire na Ciste. management, rigging and 4x4 driving.

Besides the workshops, highlights included a talk on the Friday night by mountaineer Andy Kirkpatrick, climbing and dry tooling coaching sessions with top climber Dave Macleod, and a dinner and ceilidh dance at the Macdonald Highland Resort. The conference was supported by the Order of St John, and a number of British outdoor companies, including Keela, Paramo, Berghaus and ISC. Lucy Wallace

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 11

NEWS

Mountain Safety Day 2014 With a keynote talk by well-known writer and broadcaster Cameron McNeish, Mountain Safety Day 2014, on October 11, will be attended by many of Scotland’s main mountaineering organisations, with a host of demonstrations, displays and instruction available for mountain-goers of all abilities.

The event, at Stirling’s Albert Halls, is organised by the charity Mountain Aid, supported by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland, and aims to promote safe enjoyment of the hills by increasing awareness and giving people access to information, resources and learning and training opportunities.

Mountain rescue teams (including SARDA – the Search and Rescue Dog Association), youth organisations such as the Scouts and Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme, hill walking and mountaineering clubs will have stands at the event, in Stirling’s Albert Halls.

There will be interactive talks by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland’s Mountain Safety Adviser, Heather Morning, leading discussions on a potential accident scenario and visitors will be able to hear from Geoff Monk of the Mountain Weather Information Service

(MWIS) and from the Sportscotland Avalanche Information Service (SAIS), both providing valuable information for the planning stage of any journey in the hills.

Specialist outdoor retailers Cotswold, Nevisport and Tiso will also be represented on the day, each offering expert advice on different aspects of outdoor clothing and equipment.

Jim Kinnell, of Mountain Aid, said: “We last ran a similar even in 2011, which attracted a great deal of interest from the outdoor community.

“This year’s event will be bigger, and we hope that as many walkers and climbers as possible will come along.

“It doesn’t matter whether they are looking back on their summer’s activities and wondering how they can make next year better, or whether they’re getting themselves prepared for an active winter ahead, there will be something here for everyone, regardless of how skilled or experienced they are.

“We will have organisations and experts in a number of fields looking to share their knowledge and advice, all with the aim of helping people to enjoy the Scottish mountains in greater safety and without taking needless risks.”

Heather Morning, MCofS Mountain Safety Adviser, said: “This event is a great opportunity for people to pick up tips and information that could quite literally save their lives. The MCofS does a great deal of work on mountain safety and we are delighted to be co-host this Mountain Safety Day with Mountain Aid” Entry to the event is free, although a programme, priced £2, will give full information about the event and exhibitors, as well as entry to a prize draw. The money will go towards the cost of the event.

Find out more about Mountain Safety Day 2014 here.

Meeting the Challenge of Challenge Events This year’s BMC access conference on 9 October is set to look at the cost and benefits of challenge events in the outdoors, and how these can be managed.

There are now endless opportunities to raise money for charity or achieve personal goals by tackling adventurous challenges, but what are the real impacts of this and how widely are they felt? This conference will explore the benefits, complexities and issues of challenge and charity events in the uplands.

From the benefits to the local economy and the opportunities for people to explore our uplands to the pressures on local services and the fragile environment, the conference aims to draw together existing good practice.

We will hear from various National Parks and the John Muir Trust as to how they are managing challenge & charity events, from outdoor providers who organise group events and promote good practice (from the Three Peaks to the Original Mountain Marathon) as well as a presentation from the Institute of Fundraising and Fix the Fells.

Where and when: The conference will be held at the Rheged Centre in Penrith on 9 October.

Speakers and Programme: The conference schedule has now been finalised with speakers from National Parks, the Institute of Fundraising, Fix the Fells and conservation bodies like the National Trust and John Muir Trust, as well as event organisers. For more info and to register, see https://www. thebmc.co.uk/challenge-events-three-peaks-mountain-marathon-conference

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 13

VIDEO

Scottish winter climbing with Keith Ball and Nick Bullock KEITH BALL IS A A KEEN ROCK, WINTER AND ALPINE CLIMBER AND AN INSTRUCTOR AT PLAS Y BRENIN, THE NATIONAL MOUNTAIN CENTRE. HE SENT US THIS FILM, WHICH CAPTURES A WEEK OF SCOTTISH WINTER CLIMBING WITH NICK BULLOCK - CENTURION ON BEN NEVIS, GRADE VIII 8 AND WEST CENTRAL GULLY ON BEINN EIGHE GRADE VII 8. ‘’THE WEATHER AND RELIABILITY OF THE FORECAST WAS FAR FROM PERFECT, CONDITIONS WERE CHALLENGING AND I LEARNT ON THE FIRST MORNING THAT NICK DOES NOT WALK IN TO ROUTES IN THE RAIN. PLANS WERE MADE AND PLANS WERE CHANGED. WE MADE THE MOST OF THE WEEK AND OUR EXPERIENCE; WE GOT WET, TIRED AND SCARED. WE GOT WHAT WE CAME FOR.’’ For more from Keith, see his vimeo page: https://vimeo.com/user22145808 For more from Nick, see his website: http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/ <http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/>

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 15

INTERVIEW

The Mountain Pro Interview CHANTELLE KELLY CAUGHT UP WITH CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTOR JOHN MCCUNE TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ‘HOLY JESUS WALL’, AND HIS JOURNEY FROM PASSION TO CAREER. HOW DID YOU START CLIMBING AND WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO FIRST GIVE IT A TRY? I started climbing when I was 18. After school I chose to do an outdoor instructor leadership course with Abernethy up in Scotland. This course trained us up in Credit: Pat Nolan various outdoor sports, however it was soon apparent that all I really wanted to pursue was climbing and mountaineering.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO BE THE FIRST PERSON TO CLIMB IRELAND’S HOLY JESUS WALL? First ascents in rock climbing are a special experience, but people make first ascents all the time. Ever since I started climbing I have been looking for new routes and climbing them. I have always been inspired by people exploring new cliffs and putting up new routes. One of my heroes when I started climbing was Irish climber Ricky Bell. He has been developing incredibly hard routes in Ireland for the last 10 years. I was fascinated by the idea that cliffs in Ireland are “underdeveloped” and that for those dedicated there are lots of places still to explore. I have climbed a number of new routes in Ireland but being the first person to climb on the Holy Jesus wall is cool because it is a very unique and beautiful looking piece of rock. There are definitely other climbers in Ireland capable of climbing on it but everyone has different agendas and aspirations. I saw a picture of the wall a few years ago, and obsessed about the idea of making a trip out there and climbing on it. It took me quite a few trips to the island before I finally managed to climb it, mainly because I was busy enjoying climbing other new routes on the Island that weren’t as serious or difficult.

WHAT’S BEEN THE MOST CHALLENGING CLIMB FOR YOU? I enjoy lots of different types of climbing, from bouldering to Alpine mountaineering. Each type presents different difficulties. I find lots of climbs difficult in different ways. I think recently climbing the classic 38 route on the North Face of the Eiger at the start of March was particularly memorable and difficult, as it is such a serious and demanding route. My friend John Orr, and I spent 3 days climbing the face. We had to break trail through deep snow and conditions felt really committing. It was an incredible relief to stand on top of it.

WHERE’S YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO CLIMB? As a Northern Irish climber I have to say Fairhead, on the North Coast of 16 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

Northern Ireland. I reckon it is one of the best cliffs around, with 3 miles of cliff that is 100m high for much of its length. It boasts sublime views over the north Irish Sea to Scotland and out to the Atlantic. It was where I first started to push into the higher grade climbs. Topping out after a hard climb into a Fairhead sunset is hard to beat.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO TURN YOUR PASSION INTO A CAREER? I have always enjoyed teaching others to climb and giving them opportunities to enjoy and experience the mountains. I am massively enthusiastic about climbing and mountaineering so if I can pass that on to others then I am having a successful career.

YOU SPENT THE WINTER IN THE ALPS, HOW WAS THAT? It was the second winter I spent in the Alps. I enjoy living in the mountains and I get really excited about snow. I was driving mini buses for an airport transfer company for work. The work can be hard, but being able to ski and climb Alpine routes on days off is incredible. I had a really good season, doing some amazing skiing and climbing incredible routes, and a number of big North Faces.

WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CLIMBING CAREER SO FAR? Being accepted onto the British Mountain Guide scheme last year was a big highlight for me. The pre-requisites for applying require a high standard of climbing and a huge wealth of experience across many disciplines. Gaining this experience and climbing all the routes takes a lot time, particularly for a wee guy from northern Ireland. There aren’t many guides to have come out of Ireland, and until recently I didn’t know any. I am enjoying the training and hopefully will it will all go well over the next few years.

WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS LONGER TERM? Becoming a guide is my big goal, and will take alot of hard work and time.

Other than that I just go with the flow, and take opportunities when they come. If I get the chance I’ll go on an expedition in the near future.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR ADVICE TO OTHERS HOPING TO ACHIEVE WHAT YOU HAVE DONE? Aim high. If you really want to do something put in the time, be passionate about it and make it happen. www.mountainpromag.com

INTERVIEW Credit: Pat Nolan

www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 17

BOOKSHELF

Book Reviews CHANTELLE KELLY REVIEWS THREE RELEASES FROM THE OUTDOORS BOOKSHELF NO SUCH THING AS FAILURE BY David Hempleman-Adams Published by Constable RRP £20.00 Even Bear Grylls says this is ‘gripping and inspiring- like the man himself!’ and I’m inclined to agree. No Such Thing as Failure is the autobiography of the British adventurer David Hempleman-Adams, the first person in history to achieve the ‘Adventurer’s Grand Slam’ by reaching the geographic and magnetic North and South Poles as well as climbing the highest peaks on all seven continents. Here are Everest expeds and countless air balloon records. It’s a breathless, inspiring account. As you’d expect, the book sets out to uncover what drives the author, and why he pushes himself to the limits. His recollection of his first successful expedition to Everest with a broken rib is particularly captivating. A thoroughly enjoyable romp through one man’s endless search for adventure.

ONE DAY AS A TIGER BY John Porter Published by Vertebrate Publishing RRP £20.00 John Porter tells of the life of his friend and legendary British climber Alex MacIntyre, who had a profound impact on mountaineering. Alex tragically died at the age of 28, when he was struck on the head by a single stone whilst climbing the south face of Annapurna in 1982. This poignant memoir explores the life of one of the leading mountaineers who pushed standards, particularly on ice, and completed hard new routes in the Alps, Andes and Himalayan ranges including Dhaulagiri and Changabang. Reinhold Messner once described Alex as “the purest exponent of the lightweight style now climbing in Himalaya.” After the siege tactics of previous decades, Alex famously developed a unique lightweight climbing approach, convincing manufacturers to develop clothing and rucksacks from the latest lightweight fabrics.

One Day as a Tiger not only offers an entertaining and vivid insight to Alex’s adventures; it also includes a thoroughly researched history of mountaineering. The author investigates how climbing culture developed without the equipment and technology that climbers have access to today. He successfully captures how Alex successfully pioneered the future direction of high altitude mountaineering.

ITCHING TO CLIMB BY Barbara James Published by Baton Wicks RRP £9.99 The cleverly titled Itching to Climb is the autobiography of Barbara James, and focuses on her childhood struggle with eczema, along with allergies so severe she spent sleepless nights imprisoned in an improvised strait jacket made from a pillow case. Barbara’s life changed when she was introduced to Snowdonia by a schoolteacher. At a time when female instructors were a rarity she became a full-time mountaineering instructor and mountain rescue first aider.

Barbara is a remarkable and motivated woman, and the book successfully celebrates her achievements, from the first woman civilian to be employed by MOD to train soldiers to gaining a private pilot’s license. The book has been praised and admired for giving hope to eczema sufferers, but I wasn’t quite convinced by the connection between her illness and her passion for climbing. As much as Barbara has achieved some extraordinary goals, I found the writing a little stilted and the turn of phrase awkward. You can’t fault Barbara for her kind generosity, however - all profits are being donated to the National Eczema Society.

18 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

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SKI MOUNTAINEERING

Skimo in Scotland SKI MOUNTAINEERING, SOMETIMES ALSO KNOWN AS RANDO RACING AND MORE POPULARLY NOW KNOWN AS SKIMO, IS THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE WINTER SPORTS FAMILY IN SCOTLAND. AS SKIMO SCOTLAND PREPARE FOR THEIR THIRD RACE SEASON, DI GILBERT REFLECTS ON AN UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY SO FAR.

A

lthough Skimo is a relatively new sport in Scotland, it

THE PAST

was during 1910 - 1915 that Skimo racing surfaced

During the 1920’s, with the growing popularly for both racers and

in small military circles in continental Europe. It was

spectators, civilians began organising the first few races. In 1933 a

used primarily as a training opportunity, to ensure that

group of friends came together and organised the Mezzalama Trophy

strong groups of military personnel would be able to patrol high

(the “great white marathon”) to commemorate a fallen comrade. A

mountain passes quickly and efficiently to protect their borders

very prestigious race, which crosses the Monte Rosa massif on a 45

and their people. These were referred to as ‘military patrols’.

km route at an altitude of 4000m. In 1975, at the Mezzalama Trophy,

These patrols were recognised for the amount of skill and fitness

the first Ski Mountaineering World Championships took place with

required to be included as a demonstration sport in the winter

56 teams competing. The Mezzalama Trophy has continued to run

Olympic Games in Chamonix in 1924. It resurfaced again in the

regularly every other year since 1997.

1928, 1936 and 1948 Games. www.mountainpromag.com

Apart from the Mezzalama Trophy, the Patrouilles des Glaciers was OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 21

SKI MOUNTAINEERING

“WE ACCEPTED VERY EARLY ON THAT OUR COURSES WOULD HAVE TO BE DIFFERENT FROM OUR ALPINE FRIENDS. WE LACK THE DISTANCE AND THE ASCENT, BUT WE WERE KEEN TO SHOWCASE OUR RESORTS TO THE BEST WE COULD AND TRIED TO BE AS UNIQUE AS POSSIBLE WITH EVERY COURSE.” started in 1943 to test the abilities of Swiss army units and despite

get Cairngorm Mountain onboard we failed, so instead of our initial

a 53 year suspension because of a tragic accident where a patrol

plan of racing at all 5 resorts, we opted to race at 4.

lost their lives, it has been revived, opened up to civilian teams and become a biennial event from 1984. This race reaches the highest number of racers in the world with 4,500 racers competing and up

We used the knowledge and expertise of the resorts and their Ski Patrol teams to find the very best lines possible.

With the ski resorts now supporting us, in June 2012 we became

to 75,000 spectators making it a race famous all over Switzerland

fully committed to the sport of Skimo and officially formed Skimo

and beyond.

Scotland.

Perhaps the most impressive Skimo race is the Pierra Menta - the

We were and still are unbelievably fortunate to have the industry

‘Tour de France’ of Skimo - a 4 day stage race with 10,000m of

leaders sponsoring the race series. Scarpa, Dynafit, Outdoor

ascent during the 4 days. The great classic race of modern origin

Research, Back Country Access (BCA), Black Crows, Teko and Odlo

for 2 member teams. British Skimo Captain Ben Bardsley describes

have been with us from the beginning and provide our racers and

“Over four full days of ski racing from the tranquil town on Areches

the Skimo Scotland team with equipment worth winning. Not only

in the Beaufortain, you probably do about a months’ worth of

do we have the industry leaders as series sponsors, every race has

regular touring. PD ridges and 40+ degree descents in the Alpine

it’s own race sponsor.

wilderness are lapped up for breakfast …”

Apart from these high profile events, there are literally hundreds

With credible support we embarked on establishing the race series and overcoming the various obstacles along the way. With

more races, from small local races to larger, harder courses, which

a non existent budget everything had to be done on a shoestring

are no longer confined to Europe. In total there are 33 member

- from creating the website, dealing with Companies House,

countries of the International Ski Mountaineering Federation.

negotiating with various insurance companies (by far the biggest

With popularity growing in the British scene, 2012 saw the

nightmare because the sport isn’t even recognised yet); designing

inaugural British Ski Mountaineering Championships as part of the

and building a timing system; designing and redesigning a system

established “Col et Cimes Haut” race in the Aiguilles Rouges. In

for marking the courses; designing race numbers, banners and flags

total 15 British men and 4 women raced on the 1800m of ascent

and dealing with the ever increasing email inbox and finding racers.

and descent course. The British Championships continue to run

Despite what people think, we don’t have a marketing, admin or

annually on the continent.

office team which can make some phone calls interesting to say the

THE PRESENT

least.

Nobody said it would be easy and on Saturday 29th December

There were a very small group of Brit’s already established on

2012 we had 18 racers on the starting line of the first ever Skimo

the European racing scene and since I competed (badly) in the

race in Scotland. All the races have a slightly different approach but

International Ski Mountaineering Federations World Championships

they all follow the same theme - afternoon registration, race, food

for GB in 2011, it was obvious to me that this was a completely

and social and prize ceremony.

addictive and adrenaline filled sport.

Introducing a new sport to British soil was never going to

Our 2014 race season kicks off in December with the Mountain Spirt Lecht 2014/15 season race - a 2.2 km course with 113m

easy, especially when it relies on favourable snow and weather

ascent and descent with numerous transitions. All racers have 90

conditions. We held numerous discussions with people over the

minutes to complete as many laps as possible in the allocated time.

following 12 months, with mixed reactions, and gained the support

This is a great introduction to the racing series without the pressure

and positive encouragement from GB racers Carron Scrimgeour and

of being last over the line.

Leanne Callaghan.

We held meetings with Nevis Range, the Lecht Ski Centre,

In January we stay in the Cairngorm area with the Braemar Mountain Sports Glenshee race. We have raced on both sides of the

Glenshee Ski Centre and Glencoe Mountain, who without really

mountain now with the course being 5km long with 426m ascent.

knowing what they had committed to, all decided to allow us to race

Last year saw racers coming down the famous ‘Tiger’ run in near

within their ski patrol boundaries. Despite numerous attempts to

perfect condition.

22 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

www.mountainpromag.com

For more information We enjoy 2 days of Skimo Scotland will be back once again at the Back Country Gathering racing in February with on 29th November to be held at both the Mountain Nevis Range. The premier of the Hardware Glencoe Morrocco Media Skimo Scotland Mountain race on film (6 minutes) will be shown then.

Saturday and the Macpac Skimo are producing a dedicated Nevis Range Vertical on brochure for the first time this season.

Sunday. Our Glencoe race is a 6km course with over 780m ascent and is not for the faint hearted.

With a boot section (this is where racers put skis on backpacks and

occasion, the sun comes out and the wind abaits we have the most amazing race conditions possible.

THE FUTURE Who knows! When we created Skimo Scotland we had no idea what an impact on our lives it would have. We have met some amazing people along the way from many different walks of live. People who share our passion for this truly amazing sport. As long as we attract racers (lycra or non lycra) who appreciate what we do, I am sure that we will continue to organise the race series.

In April, the Executive Boards of the International Olympic

put on crampons) and a descent down the Fly Paper. The Nevis

Committee granted provisional recognition to the International Ski

Range Vertical is an acquired taste, with racers skinning uphill for a

Mountaineering Federation for the possible inclusion of Skimo as an

height gain of 545m. No descent is timed.

Olympic event.

Our last race of our season in March, is the Cairngorm Mountain Sports Nevis Range race. On paper this is our biggest course, with nearly 7km and an ascent of 763m. We announce not only race winners but we announce our series winners at the end of this race.

During the ‘12/13 season we had 106 racers and during the

About Skimo Scotland Skimo Scotland is the home of ski mountaineering racing in

‘13/14 season we had 191 racers and we have had to cancel 2 of

Scotland - more information can be found at www.skimoscotland.

the 10 races due to some particularly horrendous weather.

co.uk. They aim to provide an introduction to the sport for those

Through organising the Skimo Scotland race series we now have

who haven’t raced before and an exciting and competitive series

representation at the Skimo Scotland race series we have now

of races closer to home for existing and developing UK based

been represented at numerous European races including the Italian

Skimo racers.

National Championships, the Tour du Rutor and the Patrouille des Glaciers. Many are unaware that Scotland has snow, ski resorts and

Skimo Scotland - www.skimoscotland.co.uk

mountains let alone a Skimo series.

Morrocco Media - www.morroccomedia.com (photos)

Every season and every race is a challenge for us. We either have

International Ski Mountaineering Federation - www.ismf-ski.org

no snow or too much snow. We can also have rain, heavy rain or blizzards. We have wind and we have gales. However, on the rare

SERIES SPONSORS: Anatom (distributors for Dynafit, BCA & Teko) - www.anatom.co.uk Mountain Boot Company (distributors for Scarpa, Outdoor Research

“AS EARLY AS THE 2022 GAMES WE COULD SEE NOT JUST MORE SPANDEX AND SNOT, BUT IMPROBABLY STRIPPEDDOWN AT BINDINGS, BACKPACKS THAT WEIGH LESS THAN A BRA, DENTAL FLOSS HARNESSES AND HIGHMOUNTAIN SUFFERING” ADAM HOWARD. www.mountainpromag.com

& Black Crows) www.mountainboot.co.uk Odlo - www.odlo.com RACE SPONSORS: Mountain Spirit www.mountainspirit.co.uk Braemar Mountain Sports www.braemarmountainsports.com Mountain Hardwear www.mountainhardwear.com Macpac www.macpac.co.nz Cairngorm Mountain Sports www.braemarmountainsports.com

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 23

GREAT MOUNTAIN CRAGS OF SCOTLAND

Black Spout Pinnacle of Lochnagar by Guy Robertson 24 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

www.mountainpromag.com

Photo caption: The Black Spout Pinnacle of Lochnagar, with the Tough-Brown Face in the shade to the left. Photo: Adrian Crofton.

T

ucked away in the far right-hand corner of Lochnagar’s north-east coire, on first impression you may hardly even know the Black

Spout Pinnacle is there, its sharp summit neatly camouflaged by the higher rim of the coire behind. But on entering the mouth of the eponymous gully one is immediately impressed by the brooding overhangs dominating the skyline to the left – the formidable Black Spout Wall.

Further up, as the great left wall diminishes in height, it becomes apparent that the whole mass is in fact a separate body, defined on both sides by hidden gullies, and joined to the back wall at a lofty col. These micro towers and nano ridges are Scotland’s Alps in miniature, and form the classic end to many a Cairngorm day – Patey’s ‘Aiguilles des Cairngorms’. After a route on the pinnacle they provide the perfect context to reflect on a great climb, perched airily among some of the finest rock architecture in the Cairngorms.

THE CLIFF Black Spout Pinnacle describes the large tapering mass of rock that forms the left flank of Black Spout Gully. It only really becomes a pinnacle towards the top where Pinnacle Gullies 1 and 2 curve from the left and right respectively to form a narrow neck ten metres below its summit. The gully itself is deep and impressive, but generally easy in all conditions, providing the best opportunity for anyone new to the place to really get inside the heart of this wonderful mountain.

Towards the lower left aspect of the pinnacle a number of earlier routes climb short steep pitches up to a large platform – The Springboard – from where the angle progressively eases on the upper frontal face. Moving right into the gully, however, the atmosphere is transformed; a sharp crest is turned from whence a long and slender trunk of clean and relatively unbroken granite soars skywards for over 150 metres.

WE BEGIN OUR REGULAR SHOWCASE FROM VERTEBRATE PUBLISHING WITH A PROFILE OF A ROYAL CLASSIC, FROM THE GREAT MOUNTAIN CRAGS OF SCOTLAND, COMPILED BY GUY ROBERTSON & ADRIAN CROFTON. www.mountainpromag.com

The crest itself sports a complex array of shallow corners and steep grooves, while the left side of the great gully wall is split by a scintillating crack-line, the key to the route Black Spout Wall. Step right below this crackline and one is dwarfed by a truly monstrous recess capped by great overhangs of several metres depth. The upper part of the gully wall tapers to a fine crescendo in the form

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 25

GREAT MOUNTAIN CRAGS OF SCOTLAND

of a well defined, smooth triangular sheet of weathered rock, broken only occasionally by rounded ‘offwidth’ cracks. It’s a complex crag with an array of possibilities – certainly big enough for some secrets to remain.

THE CLIMBING There’s something for everyone on Black Spout Pinnacle. For the traditionalist there is abundant vegetation, and a healthy dose of guile and cunning will outflank the most oppressive sections of rock. For the modern rock climber however there is more than first meets the eye, and this is undoubtedly where to head if higher E-numbers are what you’re after. Although route choices are limited, the Black Spout Wall is a must for any Cairngorm rock-climbing connoisseur.

For winter climbers the pinnacle is a jewel, although it has to be said there are no easy routes. Yet if you can deal with a couple of hard pitches low down you’ll enjoy easier romping higher up on the frontal face. If you are made of sterner stuff, the steep section from the crest rightwards into the gully has some of the finest winter routes on offer anywhere in Scotland.

On the whole, the climbing here is well protected; certainly much more reliably so than on the neighbouring Tough-Brown Face.

If there’s a crack it will generally be good.

Like most of the climbing on Lochnagar, vegetation is in abundance, though there are a couple of glorious exceptions, not least of which is the stunning Black Spout Wall (E3) inside the mouth of the gully. The well-defined edge formed where the slabby

forcing ground for technical standards on

Excerpt from The Great Mountain Crags of

frontal face turns right into the gully is the

summer rock – the first ascent of Pinnacle

Scotland, compiled by Guy Robertson &

line of The Link Direct (VS, VII,7) and provides

Face (VS) in 1955 was a good example

Adrian Crofton. This excerpt is reproduced

a superb, sustained and very exposed route

of this. In winter too the cliff played an

with the kind permission of the publisher.

in either season. The various routes on

important part in the development of cutting

the frontal face left of this tend to pick out

edge routes, and Andy Nisbet and John

Published in 2014 by Vertebrate

tenuous lines through a complex tapestry

Anderson’s ascent of The Link gave us one

Publishing. Copyright © Guy Robertson,

of shallow grooves and ribs. The routes

of the first grade VII routes in the country.

Adrian Crofton and Vertebrate Publishing

to the right, immediately below and then

Dougie Dinwoodie and Bob Smith cracked a

2014.

inside the gully, are much more direct and

truly first class nut with their ascent of Black

uncompromising with a concomitant increase

Spout Wall (E3) in 1976, and Wilson Moir

Order The Great Mountain Crags of

in the general level of difficulty.

introduced high standard rock climbing to

Scotland direct for Vertebrate and

Like most of the great Cairngorm walls,

the steep lower walls in the nineties, with

save 10% with promotional code

development proper began in the fifties,

The Existentialist (E6) and Steep Frowning

MOUNTAINPRO.

the earlier climbers having more than their

Glories (E6). The 2012 winter ascent of Black

hands full on the many surrounding gullies

Spout Wall (IX,9), linking pitches from various

http://v-publishing.co.uk/books/

and ridges. Aberdeen climbers were to the

summer Extremes, clearly demonstrated that

categories/climbing/the-great-mountain-

fore, and back then the cliff was an important

the future of climbing here is very bright.

crags-of-scotland.html

26 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

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●

Corporate Video ● Performance Analysis ● Adventure Films

Emotion

experience

morrocco media

To discover our adventure film service: E: info@morroccomedia.com T: 01250 872017 W: www.morroccomedia.com

WILDLIFE CRIME

Wildlife Detectives FELICITY MARTIN INVESTIGATES WILDLIFE CRIME WITH EXPERT ALAN STEWART

O

ne extremely cold March weekend a hill walker

Police. He has since appeared on television, written four books and

discovers some dead mountain hares in snares. He

given numerous talks. Alan’s down-to-earth and often humorous

photographs them, their white coats blending into the

accounts of cases he has dealt with both entertain and inform.

snowy background and the wire of the snares clearly

His experiences range from being called to an open prison where

visible against their fur. The next day he phones the police and

an inmate had snared a roe deer for a barbecue, to becoming

subsequently emails them his photos. They check and discover that

mired up to the knees in a dung midden while searching for buried

no license has been issued to this estate for snaring mountain hares,

buzzards.

before going out to recover the evidence. A criminal investigation has begun...

This first witness could be you or me. As regular hill goers we

He has been known to pull the leg of journalists; a gullible one who asked him for a solution to birds of prey taking racing pigeons quoted him as suggesting that: “All peregrines and sparrowhawks

have a much higher chance of coming across wildlife crime than

would need to be caught up and conditioned to eat grass and

people who spend their weekends in shopping centres or watching

turnips.”

a football match.

Because such crimes are often perpetrated in remote areas and at

I asked Alan for his advice to anyone doing outdoor activities who comes across a suspected wildlife crime and he told me, “In

quiet times of day or night they tend to be difficult for the police to

any crime that is in progress or has just been committed, or where

discover and investigate. As first on a crime scene we can either help

the suspect is still in the vicinity, the police should be contacted,

or hinder the prospects of a successful conviction.

if possible, using ‘999’.” In non-urgent cases the caller should ring

Wildlife crime can involve anything from poisoning a golden eagle to cracking open freshwater pearl mussels. It puts rare species at risk, and makes more familiar ones – like the badger or deer – suffer cruel torture and death.

Basically, wildlife crime is any action that contravenes current

‘101’ to contact their nearest police call centre to report the incident and, if they are available, to speak to a wildlife crime officer.

He went on to stress the value of obtaining and preserving evidence, “In some cases an offence may be ongoing, in which case the police need to respond quickly. Depending on the location, for

legislation governing the protection of the UK’s wild animals and

instance out on a hill or moor, this may not always be achievable.

plants. It includes egg collecting, deer poaching, hare coursing,

If the witness is unable to contact the police from the scene, then

badger baiting or sett disturbance, fish poaching and bird of prey

details of the suspect should be memorised, or better still, noted.

persecution. The latter may be by poisoning, trapping, shooting, and

A description of age, build, height, hair colour and clothing worn

disturbance of nests or theft of chicks.

are all details of great value in the investigation. Vehicle details,

Looking back at unsavoury deeds I have encountered outdoors

if available, are also extremely helpful, especially if a registration

in the past, there are a few things I now wish I had reported to the

number can be noted. Taking photographs or video footage will be

police, such as a the carcass of a roe deer strangled by a snare

a great help.

around its neck. At that time, I didn’t know much about hunting

“Bear in mind that if a suspect is aware that his crime has been

or game keeping practices, and felt that perhaps “it wasn’t my

witnessed, he is likely to take steps to eliminate evidence or to make

business”.

its retrieval more difficult. Witnesses should not normally remove

This changed when I read Alan Stewart’s first book, Wildlife

evidence, as it is much better left in situ for the police to photograph

Detective, which raised my awareness, expanded my knowledge

and recover, but there may be circumstances when the witness can

and increased my sense of responsibility. Having joined the police

helpfully recover evidence. An example might be empty cartridge

with a keen interest in nature and farming, he developed specialist

cases left behind by the suspect, but only if the witness is sure

knowledge of wildlife crime during his career and on retirement was

that taking possession of the items is the only way to prevent the

appointed as a full-time civilian Wildlife Liaison Officer for Tayside

suspect picking them up and disposing of them. Any item handled

28 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

www.mountainpromag.com

In March of this year 16 red kites, as well as 6 buzzards, were found poisoned on the Black Isle in the Highlands.

Roe deer can be the victims of poaching.

”IT TOOK MANY YEARS TO BUILD UP REQUESTS FOR PROFESSIONAL GUIDE SERVICES. WHEN I STARTED AS AN INDEPENDENT MOUNTAIN GUIDE IN SWEDEN, I WAS THE FIRST TO MAKE A LIVING OF IT – AT THE TIME, PEOPLE WERE JUST NOT USED TO PAYING FOR THE SERVICE.”

Local Country Watch partnerships between police and landowners can increase vigilance against wildlife crime.

This crow trap was not in use and had an open door and a notice with contact details.

www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 29

WILDLIFE CRIME by the witness should if possible be picked

a police contact number, and when not in use

or birds die of natural causes or as the result

up in a way that does not contaminate it with

have their door securely padlocked open.

of accidents. Have a look around and check

their fingerprints or DNA.

Similar rules apply to the smaller, multi-

whether a bird is lying under electricity

compartment Larsen trap.

lines.”

“The place where a bird or mammal has been deliberately killed, injured or illegally

Spring traps with serrated teeth, designed

Alan, who now works as an intelligence

trapped is a crime scene, and great care

to catch and hold animals or birds by the

officer with the National Wildlife Crime Unit,

should be taken not to tramp about and

leg, in pain until they die or are released, are

welcomes the help that people enjoying the

destroy an item dropped that may provide

illegal. However, toothless traps designed to

outdoors can give the police, “Many more

DNA, or stand on sole or tyre impressions

crush mink, stoats, weasels and rats instantly

eyes and ears focused on the same objective

that might be suitable for the police to

to death are allowed if set in a natural

makes it much more likely that wildlife

photograph or cast in plaster.”

or artificial tunnel with a small entrance,

criminals will have their day in court.”

He added that witnesses may also want to

“suitable for minimising the chances of

report the circumstances of a wildlife crime

capturing, killing or injuring non-target

to another agency, such the RSPB, but that

species”.

this should be done after the reporting it to the police.

Naturally, it is useful to have some

Free-running snares, which are supposed to slacken when the animal stops struggling, are legal throughout the UK, while self-

idea of what is and isn’t against the law.

locking snares are illegal. The law on snares

Shooting or poisoning of protected species

is tightest in Scotland where, since 1 April

is fairly obviously wrong, but the legislation

2013, they must have specific settings for

regarding traps and snares that walkers may

foxes, rabbits or brown hares and carry the

come across is more complicated and varies

identification tag of the accredited person

slightly across different parts of the UK. In

using them. They must never be attached to

general, they are allowed for ‘pest’ species if

a drag, or set where an animal can become

rigorous steps are taken to ensure that they

fully or partially suspended or drowned.

are not accessible to protected animals or that these, if caught, are released unharmed.

Crow traps, the large wooden and netting

A dilemma for the hillgoer is what to do if they find an illegal snare or trap set somewhere that is too remote to contact the

Buzzards are frequently the victims of illegal poisoning because they will happily eat carrion.

cages you may come across on shooting

police immediately. If that happens to you,

estates or sheep pastures, are permissible

Alan recommends taking the circumstances

if used properly. A decoy bird of the crow

into account when deciding what action to

family lures other birds into the cage. Once

take: “If an illegal trap or snare has been set,

trapped these are unable to get back out

leaving it in that state could well result in a

Find out more

again through the netting funnel. The decoy

bird or mammal being caught. If the trap is a

Alan Stewart is available to give

bird must be supplied with food and water,

live-catch trap, the bird can be released by

illustrated talks on wildlife crime to

and the trap must be checked daily with

the police when they attend. Bear in mind

interested groups and has an interesting

any non-target species being released and

that if the trap is removed or sprung by a

blog, which includes details of his books,

target species killed humanely. When in

lone witness, then there is no corroboration

at wildlifedetective.wordpress.com.

use the cages must carry a tag or sign with a

that it was ever set, though this should not

registration number issued by the police and

over-ride the welfare of wildlife.”

When it comes to finding a possible

”WILDLIFE CRIME CAN INVOLVE ANYTHING FROM POISONING A GOLDEN EAGLE TO CRACKING OPEN FRESHWATER PEARL MUSSELS.” 30 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

PAW UK, the Partnership for Action against Wildlife Crime UK, helps statutory and non-government

poisoned bait his advice is even stronger,

organisations to work together to combat

“ Most pesticides used to kill wildlife are

wildlife crime www.gov.uk/government/

extremely toxic to humans as well as to

groups/partnership-for-action-against-

animals or birds, and anything suspected

wildlife-crime. Its objectives are to

to be bait or the victim of poisoned bait

reduce wildlife crime through effective

should not be touched. If the bait or victim

and targeted enforcement, better

has to be left, covering it with branches or

regulation and improved awareness.

some other material may prevent any further

The Scottish partnership, PAW

birds – though not animals, which could find

Scotland, has a very informative website,

it through their sense of smell – being put in

albeit that it reflects Scottish legislation,

danger until the police can retrieve it.”

which tends to be somewhat stronger

However, he also makes the point that

than that elsewhere in the UK: www.

not every dead animal is a result of wildlife

scotland.gov.uk/Topics/Environment/

crime, “Though pesticide abuse still occurs,

Wildlife-Habitats/paw-scotland

it must be borne in mind that many animals www.mountainpromag.com

THE ATHOLL EXPEDITION BY ALEX RODDIE

The quest for Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last glacier

Illustration by: Catherine Speakman

32 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

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AUTHOR ALEX RODDIE PRESENTS AN EXTRACT FROM HIS HISTORICAL NOVEL, THE ATHOLL EXPEDITION.

P

rofessor Forbes took another step and leaned against his

to a slow grave sandwiched between the rock of the mountain and

staff, taking ragged breaths. From a mild twinge yesterday

the layers of ice he had devoted his life to studying. His knees felt

afternoon the pain in his head had steadily worsened,

weak and he took a step back from the chasm.

and now it hammered away on the inside of his skull like

a sledgehammer against marble. He was barely able to concentrate

Focus! Be the master of your body, not its slave.

on the task of placing glacier markers. The symptoms had not been

He coiled his plumbline and began a careful descent of the snowslope. The angle was dangerous here—his clinometer put it at

this bad for over a year, and he knew if his wife were here she would

43 degrees, although it felt steeper—and he took care to kick steps

insist upon an immediate return to Edinburgh and a consultation

with the heel of his boot, and not move down until he was certain

with his physician.

the platform would bear his weight without collapsing. Sometimes

Slowly, he opened his eyes and lifted his head to look into the whirlpool of snow and storm that surrounded him.

He had succeeded in climbing to the highest point on the “glacier”: the gaping crevasse which divided the bulk of the ice from the mountain itself. Above his head, icicles clung to an undercut

he had to bring the point of his staff into action and chip away at the

solid ice just beneath the surface. It was hard work, but he had done it many times before in the old days.

Nevertheless, the effort was a strain, and he wished he had a Swiss guide armed with hatchet and rope.

shelf of rock, and beyond that, near-vertical slabs reached up into

He had descended no more than ten yards before a peculiar

the heavens. A continuous stream of fine snow poured down this

sensation came over him. His heart palpitated, pins and needles

slab and over his body, somehow finding the back of his neck despite his wide-brimmed hat (which he was constantly in fear of

rushed to the palms of his hands and the pit of his stomach, and the roar of the storm faded in his ears. He could see the pulse of his

losing to the wind) and neckcloth.

own heartbeat. His body began to shake, and he felt a terrible fear

He probed the lip of the crevasse with his staff. A chunk of snow broke away and burst into mush on the far wall, which was bare rock, slick with water. With numb fingers he retrieved the plumbline from his pocket and lowered it into the depths.

One fathom. Two fathoms. Three fathoms .... five … eight fathoms and solid ground.

He had expected the crevasse to be deeper. It certainly

that he was about to suffer some apoplexy and die where he stood.

Strangely, the headache had disappeared.

He gulped in breath after breath. I am the master of my body. He tried to fight the panic with the force of his will.

The corrie howled around him, an uncaring cauldron of cold and pain, suffused with an eerie glow that shone down from above. As his vision began to fade he saw a spectre approaching through the

looked wide enough; he was unable to reach the far wall with an

mist: a fearful shadow, black against blinding white, surrounded by

outstretched arm, although he did not dare step too close to the

a halo that—to his terrified mind—signified the end of his time on

crumbling edge. For a moment he entertained the awful thought of

this Earth.

what would happen to him if he fell down there, eight fathoms down

His vision dissolved to black, and he felt nothing more.

THE ATHOLL EXPEDITION Alpine Dawn Book I By Alex Roddie Introducing James Forbes in the quest for Scotland’s last glacier.

SCOTLAND, 1847. Convalescence doesn’t suit Professor Forbes. When one of his former students appears exhausted at his door, telling stories of bloodthirsty gamekeepers and a mythical glacier in the heart of the Cairngorm mountains, he can’t resist the chance for another adventure. However, his journey coincides with a visit from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, and the Royal Consort has an ambition to shoot the oldest and most cunning hart of the Atholl estate.

Forbes is soon involved in the chase of his life - with perhaps one last chance to make his name before it is too late.

The wilderness of the Cairngorms is trodden by legendary stags, demons of local folklore, and a few brave souls all seeking very different things from the wild. This is a tale of life in the Scottish mountains before mountaineering began.

The Atholl Expedition is available to download for Amazon Kindle.

A paperback edition is also available. Amazon UK: www.amazon.co.uk/The-Atholl-Expedition-Alpine-Dawn-ebook/dp/ B00HGPMEHY

www.mountainpromag.com

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 33

Arctic Guides

working at the top

UIAGM GUIDE ANDERS BERGWALL AND WIFE MERJA RUN A GUIDING OUTFIT IN THE FAR NORTH OF SWEDEN, WHERE DAYLIGHT HOURS OSCILLATE BETWEEN ALL AND NOTHING. HENDRIK MORKEL TALKED TO THE COUPLE TO FIND OUT HOW THEY ESTABLISHED AND DEVELOPED THEIR BUSINESS FAR OFF THE BEATEN TRACK.

A

nders Bergwall is a quiet and reserved man, but get him

on the Lofoten Archipelago during the summers. In 1987 Anders

talking about climbing and skiing and he transforms,

and friends established the Svenska Bergsguide Organisationen

energetically sharing stories of his adventures across the

- the Swedish Mountain Guide Organisation. They spent ten years

globe. We sit outside of a rustic wooden hut in Abisko,

working on becoming full members of the international association

where Anders and Merja have chosen to establish their company

UIAGM/IFMG/IVBV. During that time he also worked in the French

Arctic Guides. The sun shines warmly and icicles slowly melt. “I have

Alps and enjoyed Free Skiing down the steep slopes in the Mont

always loved the Polar areas, the Arctic and Antarctic. The power of

Blanc massive.

nature, the culture of extremely strong people and the challenge

It’s easy to understand why the couple chose Abisko as their base.

and happiness to be gained from exploring and spending time in

The surrounding hills offer sublime climbing, skiing and hiking, the

those areas”. He has worked in the north since 1985, first as a ski

small village has a railway station with daily connections to the

guide during the winters in Riksgränsen, and as a climbing instructor

south and Stockholm, and an airport is just an hour away in Kiruna.

34 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

www.mountainpromag.com

p

”IT TOOK MANY YEARS TO BUILD UP REQUESTS FOR PROFESSIONAL GUIDE SERVICES. WHEN I STARTED AS AN INDEPENDENT MOUNTAIN GUIDE IN SWEDEN, I WAS THE FIRST TO MAKE A LIVING OF IT – AT THE TIME, PEOPLE WERE JUST NOT USED TO PAYING FOR THE SERVICE.”

of Europe

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 35

ARCTIC GUIDES

a normal part of our daily life” she replies.

”OUR AIM WITH THESE COURSES IS TO HELP EVERY STUDENT TO LEARN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE TO HELP THEM BECOME SOUND MOUNTAINEERS, WHO CAN MAKE GOOD DECISIONS AND BE SAFE IN THE MOUNTAINS.”

“We are both very used to working around

Abisko. “Sometimes callouts can be a couple

in Greenland - which isn’t bad, either!” he

of times a week, this winter we have had

smiles. Two years ago he was asked to guide

more avalanche rescue operations than

on the small islands off the coast of Norway.

normal. But usually it is calm - happily!”.

“In comparison with Greenland there are

Since we’re now on the subject of

no local people or communities spread

helicopters, I inquire how they decided to

out along the coast near the best skiing,

add Heliskiing to their services.

so either you have to do a long expedition

“It has been offered for a long time in

the globe, traveling a lot and hence have become quite good in planning our family schedule - the kids are always the priority.

However, it is always great to have some time together back home after the high season.”

The high season for Heliskiing is between the end of February and the end of April, but as you’d expect Arctic Guides are a year round operation. “We are leaving with the whole family to the Svalbard ski cruise this week - the 2nd time we’re offering it” Anders explains. “I always wanted to go to Svalbard but usually ended up guiding

with pulkas or you need a pretty big boat

Riksgränsen”, Anders explains. Starting from

to be able to do the logistics in a nice and

the 1970’s the Resorts offered Heliskiing

safe way - we decided to try the latter.”

with instructors on the three mountains

Suffice to say that initial trip was a huge

nearby - they skied one slope on each hill.

success and that the Arctic Guides now are

“I was used to Chamonix and exploring

offering a yearly Svalbard Ski Cruise. In the

the mountain in a completely different

summer they offer Alpine Climbing, Glacier,

way” he explains. “After a few years I had

Avalanche and Rock Climbing courses. Many

devised hundreds of new routes, developed

of their courses are held in the Kebnekaise

the whole concept and was ready to offer

area - Sweden’s highest peak - and on the

Chamonix-style Heliskiing in Northern

Lofoten in Northern Norway.

Sweden”. For many years Anders and his

I understand you have a relationship

Add in that it’s a 30-minute ride and you are

crew had the range to themselves, although

with Haglofs – how did that come about?

in Norway and that one of Sweden’s most

in the last 10 years it has started to become

“I knew the owner of Haglofs many years

popular long-distance trails starts in Abisko

more competitive.

before I became a gear ambassador, or

and you have a real outdoor paradise. “But

What’s Merja’s role in the company?

‘Friend’. They asked me to join them, but I

establishing a guiding company here wasn’t

“I have a background in marketing and

wasn’t 100% convinced initially. Now, it’s a

easy” relates Anders.

over 10 years experience in security and

different matter - the company has improved

Back then, the tradition was that every

crises management” she explains. Safety

so much in recent years I’m happy to show

ski resort had their volunteer leaders for

and security work is a natural part of a

my support. We have a good relationship

day tours, while Anders was charging the

guiding company that runs through the

and I enjoy being part of the research and

full price for his services, as in the Alps.

whole business, from securing the base

development process.”

He quickly realised that he had to be “a

operations to planning preparedness in case

hell of a lot better than the other guys!”.

of different crises scenarios. “Additionally I

horizon morphs through many shades

Perseverance and ambition have paid off:

take care of marketing, PR, communication,

of blue. As the Arctic Guides helicopter

today Anders and Merja employ three

finances, ground and office services as well

returns to base, people begin to head to the

people beside themselves, and regularly hire

as developing new products. And of course I

Aurora Sky Station on their way to view the

a number of additional guides.

take care of our two children!”

Northern Lights. All in all, it seems a pretty

Besides running a guiding company and

How do you find being alone with the

Polaris sparkles high in the sky and the

great place to work!

being a father, Anders is also part of the

children... be alone with the family and

Swedish Police Alpine Rescue team & a

running the company when Anders is out on

or book a course, visit www.arcticguides.

member of the Mountain Rescue team in

an expedition, often for weeks at a time? “It’s

com.

36 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

To find out more about the Arctic Guides

www.mountainpromag.com

GEAR GUIDE

Winter Hardshells for him THE SEASONS ARE TURNING AND IT IS TIME TO BATTEN DOWN THE HATCHES. DAVID LINTERN PUT THE LATEST WATERPROOF JACKETS TO THE TEST.

MAMMUT CRATER £250 I’ve enjoyed testing this piece and it has taken a battering on recent scrambling trips without missing a beat. The extremely sturdy Gore-Tex 3-layer fabric has been dragged across both Granite and Sandstone, and is still in perfect condition. The fabric is stiff, tough and so suits climbing and winter use as opposed to hiking or backpacking – those pitzips help with breathability if it’s on all day under a harness, but this is a jacket for heavy weather on the crags, not fair conditions on the trails. The cut is on the slim side, and the tail could use a touch extra length for use with a harness but neither of these things is a major issue – just size up. The hood is excellent both with and without a helmet, benefitting from a rear drawcord and allowing a full range of head movement.

Weighing in at a reasonable 520gms, this is a wellspecified and good value jacket tough enough for serious winter weather abuse.

■ www.mammut.ch 38 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

BERGHAUS MOUNT ASGARD STRETCH £285 A different jacket with a different application, and well suited to all season walking or backpacking use.

The cut is again on the slim side, but with a long, practical tail. This hardshell makes use of the more breathable and stretchy ‘Active’ fabric but is still 3 layer and is slightly thicker on the shoulders for better durability - I run hot as a rule, but didn’t cook in this. I did find that after a solid day in rain the arms wetted out a little, but in conditions warm enough to rain this wasn’t an issue. The hood will fit a helmet underneath but maneuverability is restricted when the jacket is fully zipped up. The hood also lacks a drawcord at the back of the head, which in my view limits it’s usefulness. Good-sized chest pockets backed with mesh double up as vents but are not big enough for maps. Light at 445gms, very packable and good value, this would be high on my list for non-technical 3 season outings. ■ http://www.berghaus.com www.mountainpromag.com

GEAR GUIDE

Easily one of the best in the bunch, this ‘regular fit’ piece means practical, throw over all protection for serious use.

Excellent length for everything from hiking to mountaineering, and a generous fit in the body, so stick thin alpine athletes beware. The Gore Tex Pro material feels a lot softer than the Crater but more sturdy than the Berghaus, and the hood, once adjusted for helmet, features concealed adjusters, an excellent beard guard and all round visibility – hoods matter, and this one is ‘bucket style’ and really excellent, providing maximum protection from the elements. The sleeves feature a tapered fit to minimise flapping and have an interesting rubberized seal around the wrist, which really works when cinched tight in the wet. Pit zips and vast, map compatible chest pockets complete a pricey but great piece of engineering at 430gms.

■ www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/home

THE NORTH FACE KITCHATNA £380 An enjoyable and very well thought out piece here. The fabric is 3L Gore-Tex Pro so it’s a good combination of breathability and durability. It’s been designed with ski mountaineering in mind and has some pretty snazzy features, including a powder skirt.

Thankfully, that skirt is low profile and removable, which makes this an adaptable choice. For regular mountain use, I found it well cut in the arms allowing full range of movement without jacket rise. The hood is efficient both with and without a helmet and my chin, if not my nose, was fully guarded whilst not BEST BUY compromising on lateral head movement. Two i ta handwarmer pockets are (just) accessible with a www.moun harness on my model, complimented by another two slimmer napoleon pockets. Like Lucy in her women’s review, I found the zippers a little on the fiddly side for gloved hands but the pit vents allow you to open and close from either armpit or elbow, which is a seriously nice touch. The hem drawcord is even cleverly concealed inside the handwarmer pockets but it’s already a really excellent offering. Because of those two way pit zips, proven fabric and removable snowskirt, this the most versatile all rounder here, which is why although it’s not the cheapest, I’ve given it ‘best buy’.

■ www.thenorthface.co.uk np rom ag.com

PATAGONIA SUPER ALPINE £450

JÖTTNAR BERGELMIR £450 In terms of breathability, there’s no doubt that Neoshell rates highly, and its use here makes this jacket feel really soft and luxurious. This performed well in torrential rain in the Cairngorms recently where it exhibited an almost obscene level of beading! However, those box fresh characteristics won’t last forever on any product, so what else is here? Thankfully, not much – this is minimal, very well cut and weighs 510gms. Two huge napoleon pockets, one internal phone pocket, thankfully zippered, and a hood that comes close to being head huggingly perfect.

Range of movement is completely uninhibited in all directions even with a high profile helmet and the chin guard doesn’t bite my nose when turning the head. However, the draw cords on the hood rim are at eye level and protrude from inside the hood – this doesn’t really impede vision much, but it does mean you must tuck them away or risk them snagging on a pair of goggles… or worse, a chance that the elasticated hoops will attack your eyes in high winds.

Otherwise, it’s a beautifully made jacket that’s a pleasure to wear.

■ www.jottnar.com/

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 39

GEAR GUIDE

PARAMO ENDURO £350

pr om ag.c om

Nikwax Analogy - the marmite of outdoors fabric, but for me in full on Scottish winter conditions, nothing else comes close.

This isn’t really a hardshell of course – it’s more a waterproof softshell. Paramo have finally taken a pair of scissors to at least one of their old patterns and come up with a purpose built alpine jacket that has pretty much everything I need and nothing more. Gone is the baggy, flappy cut of old, so be careful when EDITOR’S sizing if you want to wear with a thicker mid layer. You shouldn’t need to – I wear with only a CHOICE baselayer when active in winter, and it’s too hot for me in any other weather. At 815gms critics in nta www.mou will tell you its too heavy but since you might not need a softshell or mid to go with, weight issues seem less relevant. What else? – A made to order compass pocket with D ring that makes me wonder how I ever did without exactly this design, another small valuables pocket inside, harness friendly handwarmers on both sides and a map compatible pocket to finish. Sleeve vent zips that can be easily operated with one hand (hallelujah), and a main zip toggle that locks into itself to save chipping a tooth when the weather gets churlish. The hood is excellent with a helmet, but for me could use just a bit more slack around the chin to enhance maneuverability and allow better refuge from the elements. Similarly the length could be longer on my medium – I’m almost wondering if they’ve cut this too lean? Otherwise, this is a bespoke winter mountaineering jacket that devotees of the fabric have been asking for. It’s almost perfect. Just don’t try to self-arrest if you’re wearing trousers to match! ■ www.paramo.co.uk/en-gb/index.php

RAB NEO GUIDE £300 Rab’s neoshell offering is big on comfort, and offers a few other features too.

First, to the hood, which as expected on a Rab jacket is very good indeed. Full range of movement, drawcords out of the way on the outside of the jacket near my cheeks, and chin and nose friendly so you can really hunker down when it gets miserable. Two differently weighted fabrics mean the areas exposed to regular friction - shoulders, elbows, cuff and hips should prove more durable. Excellent range of movement on the sleeves, so zero jacket rise under a harness, and the napoleon pockets here are simply enormous – more than big enough for maps, snacks, headlamps, ultralight kitchen sink... This also has pit zips for when I’m blowing hard uphill, and opening these is easy, but they are positioned diagonally in the jacket in such a way as to make them a bit sticky when trying to close them, if the jacket isn’t held in place by a harness. There’s also a useful mesh phone pocket, and a less useful elasticated one, both internal. Good minimal offering from Rab, although not the lightest at 620gms in a large. ■ rab.uk.com

ARC’TERYX AR ALPHA £425 We’re looking at a dedicated climbers jacket here, and the tailoring, ergonomics and attention to weight saving reflect that. First, the fabric is Goretex Pro Shell, proven for winter waterproofs being a good, practical balance of durable and breathable. As with other jackets in this review, there’s thicker fabric used at the shoulders, forearms and on the cuffs for longevity, and lighter stuff elsewhere allowing them to keep the weight to a really skimpy 385gms, which is fairly amazing in something that feels this well purposed. The hood is excellent and doesn’t just allow full vision but even moves with the head, and those pesky drawcords are out of harm’s way too. There’s loads of volume in the body and arms, which is nice to see on something this lean as it allows layering up. I liked the foam inserts to help the jacket sit in place under a harness but inevitably wondered how long they might last before they came adrift. The two napoleon pockets are a bit on the small side for my liking and I found the hood visor could have been better wired – this mattered less with a helmet, obviously. The pit zippers are of the functional, two-way meet in the middle variety and have simple, easy to grab cord – still a bit sticky though. Overall, it ain’t cheap, but this is a beautifully made, incredibly light jacket focused on climbing that should perform in most other arenas almost as well. It’s so slick it almost got my ‘editor’s choice’. ■ www.arcteryx.com 40 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

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GEAR GUIDE

Winter Hardshells for her THE SEASONS ARE TURNING AND IT IS TIME TO BATTEN DOWN THE HATCHES. LUCY WALLACE PUT THE LATEST WATERPROOF JACKETS TO THE TEST.

ARC’TERYX WOMEN’S ALPHA AR GTX PRO £425 The designers at Arc’Teryx have an eye for detail that results in clever, good looking designs but more importantly, performance under duress, and the new Alpha AR is no exception. The sculpted cuffs, roomy hood and careful cut for streamlined freedom of movement, are a result of impeccable pattern cutting. The waterproof front pockets sit well high of a harness waist belt, and there is a small internal pocket for goodies. The only other features are Hemlock foam inserts to keep it in place under a harness, and pit zips for moisture management.

The simplicity keeps the weight down to a skimpy 350g - superb for a bomber alpine shell. There are compromises however- the hood, whilst capacious and easy to adjust, has a relatively soft laminated peak, providing minimal protection from a Cairngorm howler. Frustratingly, the pockets will only take a full size laminated UK OS map with bit of a fight. I like to carry cut down laminates in winter so can live with this. Gore-Tex Pro Shell needs no introduction, but for the record I’ve found it to be the perfect combination of breathability and durability for winter.

Here, it is used in a lightweight but tough three layer format with a subtle stretch, (N40p-X) with reinforced areas (N80p-X) over the shoulders and forearms, body mapped with climbing wear zones. It’s an excellent lightweight shell, beautifully crafted, if pricey, with alpinists specifically in mind. ■ http://arcteryx.com

EDITOR’S CHOICE

SPRAYWAY PANDORA JACKET £260 It’s a competitive price for a technical mountaineering jacket but a few corners have been cut with design and materials. Made from standard three layer Gore-Tex, the waterproofing and breathability will be reliable, but I’d personally prefer something more breathable for big days on the hill in foul conditions. The features that meet the exacting specifications of mountaineers are all here- roomy sealed torso pockets that sit out of the way of a harness and a helmet compatible hood with a wire brim.

The hood doesn’t work so well without a helmet as it is just so big, feeling floppy and slightly inflatable with long, loose bungees to smack you in the face on a windy day. I found the water resistant zips quite stiff too. The fit is very roomy, my size 12 felt big enough for two, so size down if you are looking to minimize bagginess, but I do like the length, which feels protective in bad weather.

■ http://www.sprayway.com

PARAMO VENTURA JACKET £330

pr om ag.c om

If looked after as the manufacturer suggests, the Nikwax Analogy fabric works wonders for me, as it is so breathable and comfortable all day. Detractors don’t like the boxy cut and baggy layers of fabric in their usual offerings, but Paramo answer their critics here with a streamlined shape, stretch fabrics and a snazzy asymmetric in nta www.mou design. It’s built for winter mountaineers, so the features are pretty minimalist, but there is a huge chest pocket for a map and a couple of smaller ones for goodies, sunglasses and a compass. The hood is probably the best reviewed, fits easily over a helmet, with great face protection and a wired peak. It can be a bit warm, and heavy at 802g, but it’s designed to be worn all day, not left in the bag and heat can be dumped via the underarm zips. This jacket knocks out a layer in your clothing system, removing the requirement for a Pertex or soft shell. The fabric is exceptionally breathable, with no membrane, and is highly water repellant, even (dare I say it) waterproof, if the wearer is active and the jacket regularly washed and reproofed. This can seem like a faff, and you may feel like taking out shares in Nikwax at the same time as making this purchase. At this price it nevertheless represents a good value option when you consider the how durable the fabric is.

■ http://www.paramo.co.uk

42 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

www.mountainpromag.com

SHERPA ADVENTURE GEAR WOMEN’S LAKPA RITA JACKET £280

np rom ag.com

GEAR GUIDE

BEST BUY i ta www.moun

Lightweight, well thought out, and available at a superb price, the Lakpa Rita Jacket has been gently revamped for this season, the main change being a longer cut. It’s made from three-layer eVent, a highly breathable fabric that benefits from regular washing, with reinforced areas over the forearms and shoulders. I find eVent relatively chilly to wear, perhaps because of the direct venting technology in the material (tiny pores that allow moisture to escape), so tend to take an extra layer with me on cold days. The fabric has a little stretch in it, and freedom of movement is enhanced by clever pattern cutting and articulated sleeves. The two torso pockets are placed out of the way of a harness and there are also a couple of handy napoleon style chest pockets. The hood is functional if snug over a helmet, and without one it fits superbly well, with great protection for the face and a solid wired brim. The single draw cord adjustment on the back of the hood is brilliantly simple. At 365g it’s very lightweight indeed.

BERGHAUS MOUNT ASGARD STRETCH £285

THE NORTH FACE WOMEN’S KICHATNA JACKET £380

This lightweight jacket in highly breathable Gore-Tex Active shell provides stripped down minimalism for year round mountaineers. The key points are the helmet compatible hood, roomy torso pockets, internal pocket, and, well that’s about it! Everything works as you would expect, but this is a 450g jacket for those that don’t want or need any frills.

The 3D venting mesh pockets could be a point of water ingress, so be sure to fully close them and tuck the zips under their neat little baffles in bad weather. I’m glad that despite the weight savings elsewhere Berghaus have not skimped on the hood and have included a wired peak on a very generous and adjustable hood. The Gore-Tex Active fabric really does breathe well, and here is offered with a subtle stretch, which coupled with a good cut (articulated sleeves with underarm gusset), gives great freedom of movement. The single rear draw cord is a bit odd, and at first left me with a curious elastic tail, but closer inspection happily revealed an internal tab to tuck this out of the way. The fabric over the shoulders is heavier duty, to provide protection under a rucksack. It’s an all rounder for a range of activities throughout the year, in the UK and abroad.

■ http://www.berghaus.com

It’s a very good winter sports shell that is as at home in snow filled gullies as it is on the pistes. The cut is pretty generous, with nice features such as a removable snow skirt (a little high on the waist for me), helmet compatible hood with a wired and stiffened peak, and micro fibre chin guard. It feels like a comfortable, full body armour option for any weather. The main pockets are waterproof, roomy and although they won’t open all the way when I’ve got a harness on, there is still space for a map.

There are higher chest pockets (also sealed) for smaller items plus an internal mesh pocket. Venting is managed with under arm zips.

All this is made out of bombproof three layer Gore-Tex Pro. My only gripe is with the zips on the pockets and under the arms- these are very stiff and fiddly, because of this the underarm vents are a nightmare to work with a single gloved hand. The best way to close them is to ask a friend for help!

■ http://www.thenorthface. co.uk

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OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 43

GEAR GUIDE

Mountain Boots for winter FROM TECHNICAL INSULATED OPTIONS TO ALL-SEASON WORKHORSE MODELS, LUCY WALLACE TAKES A LOOK AT HER FAVOURITE MOUNTAIN BOOTS FOR WINTER.

ASOLO SHERPA GV £250 It’s a fully featured B2 boot that will take a semi automatic crampon, and a perfect workhorse for the Scottish winter hills. The heavy-duty single piece of 2.4mm Perwanger leather is protected by a full rubber rand that wraps the boot. Inside, a Gore-Tex bootie ensures water stays out. This boot feels very solid, even though it is only designed for semi automatic crampons, but the neat design, with a precise last for climbing, give it a positive feel that lends itself to steeper terrain and I’m happy on technical ground and even ice in these. The flexible ankle makes for enjoyable walk-ins. The fit is fairly low volume, suiting people with narrower feet, especially around the toe box. Weight is 890g each for a size 8.

A good all rounder, available in men’s and women’s sizes.

■ http://www.asolo.com

44 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

ALTBERG MALLERSTANG £209.99 These beautifully made traditional boots are stiff enough to take an articulated strap on crampon and available in a range of width fittings for optimum comfort.

The tough 2.8mm leather uppers are lined with a breathable Sympatex bootee- for reliable protection from rain and snow. The sole unit is aggressive and rugged, but I found it could feel a little hard on the balls of the feet on long days. It also lacks a protective rand, which I miss, as the gorgeous leather gets chunks taken out of it by passing rocks. Nevertheless, these are quality boots suitable for any month of the year, for walks and easy scrambles below and above the snow line. There isn’t any insulation, so winter climbers and regular Scottish winter walkers should seek something more specialised. That said, this is a versatile and rugged mountain boot very well suited to the British climate. Available in UK sizes 5-14 and a range of width fittings. ■ http://www.altberg.co.uk www.mountainpromag.com

GEAR GUIDE

These are really lovely nimble boots for alpine routes and general mountaineering above and below the snowline. They don’t have much insulation, so aren’t great for cold belays, but they are a comfortable lightweight option for winter walks and scrambles.

The uppers are made from a mix of suede and tough nylon, a supple mix that enables a precise fit when tinkering with the lacing system. A rubber rand protects the boot and there is a Gore-Tex liner for waterproofing. Underfoot, the sole is stiff enough for a semi automatic crampon, and has spectacularly deep lugs for excellent traction on snow, ice and scree. As a winter boot, I found it relatively bendy and this is something that I would expect to increase with wear. This, coupled with flexible uppers that don’t support a heel clip too well mean I personally prefer to pair these with a strap on crampon binding. Available in UK sizes 6-13.

■ http://lowa.co.uk

LA SPORTIVA TRANGO S EVO £255

It’s funny but I seem to wheel this out for every review I write, as it’s a very versatile do-anything type of boot that operates well throughout the seasons, as demonstrated by my extended test! La Sportiva market it as a three-season boot, so for winter use it really is at the lightweight end of the spectrum, weighing 740g. Nevertheless, it takes a semi automatic crampon, and comes into its own on scrambly winter Munro days when reducing weight on the feet is paramount. The uppers are made from tough Cordura and lined with Gore-Tex, and it is warm enough for stomping through snow, but not ideal for freezing belays. I’ve found the ankle cuff to be quite firm, and would appreciate a little more padding here to prevent bruising. A full protective rubber rand extends the length of the boot. The sole unit is grippy and aggressive on ice, snow scree and rock, with a streamlined toe profile for clambering about on steeper stuff. Available in men’s and women’s sizes.

ZAMBERLAN 2080 PAMIR GTX RR £340 This boot is a higher spec than the others reviewed here, with a fully stiffened shank for a automatic crampons, Gore-Tex Duratherm insulating liner, and neoprene lined ankle cuff for keeping out snow. It’s designed for steep stuff in cold conditions and is a specialised boot that won’t suit everyone. What stands out for me is the attention to detail, from the double tongue that can be adjusted for maximum comfort, to the steel camming lace cleats that allow for a precise fit. I like the aggressive forward leaning ankle shape that pushes the calves in to an almost knees-bent position- very supportive of the Achilles area when front pointing and encouraging a natural dropped heel. This could be awkward on the walk in, but a gentle rocker in the sole unit means that this is not troublesome. They are pretty beefy at 1100g per foot, but you do get a lot of boot for this. Super warm, and designed for technical climbs at altitude, some might think them a little OTT for the British winter, but Scotland can provide some of the most testing conditions out there and these boots are up to the job. Available in sizes EU 38-48. ■ http://www.zamberlan.com

EDITOR’S CHOICE

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LOWA CEVEDALE PRO £260

■ http://www.sportiva.com

in nta www.mou

Hanwag have put a lot in to the design of these boots and they represent superb value for an insulated mountaineering boot, compatible with semi-automatic crampons. Designed for alpine summits, the robust uppers are made from a combination of heavy-duty nylon and leather, protected with a rubber rand and lined with Gore-Tex Duratherm for warmth and waterproofing. They have quite a high ankle cuff, giving lots of support, but soft enough for the necessary flex when walking. The walk-in is eased further with distinct rocker to the sole, and underfoot they have big self-cleaning lugs, with a tidy climbing zone under the toes for steep scrambles. At 820g for a size 7 they are not super light, but you do get a lot of warm cosy boot for this weight. The fit is fairly standard, although I find it a little shallow in the toe box, and they are easily adjusted with smooth running laces with locking cleats. Available in UK sizes 6.5-12.

■ http://hanwagboot.com www.mountainpromag.com

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HANWAG FRICTION GTX £255 BEST BUY i ta www.moun

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 45

GEAR GUIDE

Lightweight Climbing Helmets DAVID LINTERN AND LUCY WALLACE TAKE A LOOK AT FOUR OF THE LIGHTEST CLIMBING LIDS

Unlike some women’s specific helmets this one fits my relatively large skull quite well. I’m not sure how this model differs from the men’s size small version (53-59cm), apart from by colour scheme, but I like it anyway.

Technically speaking, it’s an EPS/Polycarbonate hybrid, but it is so light (230g), that it feels like a top end bike helmet style to wear and I sense that it should be treated with some care when handling and transporting. The hard polycarbonate exterior does offer protection for the polystyrene inner but it is thinner than with most hybrid helmets so will dent a bit if you ding it. The cradle is simple to adjust and stays in place, interacting with a pony tail with no problems and tucking inside the shell when not in use. There is a minimal amount of removable padding inside, and the all-important headtorch clips on the outside. It’s a great helmet for climbers looking for the performance of a super lightweight lid, but with a little more durability, for example on extended trips or long routes where an easily damaged helmet could curtail the adventure. LW ■ http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com

BLACK DIAMOND VAPOR £119 This is low profile and is incredibly light at 199g in my large. Apparently there’s both a sheet of Kevlar and some carbon rods sandwiched between the EPS foam and a light polycarbonate outer, and the front and top of the head are completely enclosed. The sides and back are not however, and I wondered about the size of one or two of those vents – might they let small stones through? BD do say in the blurb that it’s designed for areas where rock fall is low, but how many of us want to buy multiple helmets? Then again, if it encourages people to take a helmet on lower grade stuff where they wouldn’t have bothered before because of weight, all well and good.

On the hill, it feels solid and those vents are useful in keeping my barnet sweat free. The ratchet adjuster works fairly well but can leave either end of the rear plastic strap exposed, which can catch on rope when taking coils. I found it very comfortable but the retracting cradle did mean the helmet rocked forward on my head when looking up and interacting with my rucksack. The very subjective ding test? – yes, it does dent, but no cracks. Incorporates headtorch fittings, which can be removed to stop snagging, and comes in two sizes. DL ■ http://blackdiamondequipment.com www.mountainpromag.com

PETZL SIROCCO £85.00 It’s been with us a little while, but this orange lid upped the stakes in lightweight protection when it landed. It’s currently the lightest helmet meeting CE/UIAA safety standards in the world at 150g. It’s made from a single piece of moulded polypropylene which is what is keeping the weight down.

It sits really high on the head but once it’s on feels really secure and comfortable and doesn’t move around at all. I found the straps efficient and the magnetic buckle is more than just a gimmick, making one handed fastening at least possible if not easy. There’s no cradle as such, just a third strap, but it works well. The vents circle the helmet from almost the front, but are long and thin rather than triangular or square, so should repel the smaller stuff and mitigate cold spots. Remember that this is expanded poly throughout and has no outer, so it does crack if it’s dinged. The high profile neon orange looks, um, distinctive, but comfort wise this is excellent.

Available in 2 sizes and with the usual headtorch fittings as well as a visor attachment. DL ■ http://www.petzl.com/us

EDELRID SHIELD LITE £75 This is the second heaviest here at 220gs and a hybrid two parter, EDITOR’S with an expanded CHOICE polystyrene inner and a fairly robust in nta polycarbonate www.mou outer. The profile is somewhere in the middle, enough to feel a little side-on security. The cradle here is another all fabric affair, and features small locking clasps which are a bit fiddly at first but once it’s on and adjusted, there’s no movement or rocking at all.

The straps disappear into the helmet when stowing.

The vents worked well at keeping my bonce duly aired and weren’t so big I got paranoid about falling debris, and it’s got four lamp clips for those early starts. The ding test resulted in a tiny dent, no cracks. It comes in two sizes and with extra padding in the box. It’s more than comfortable enough for long days and whilst I’m not entirely sure about the colour scheme, this felt safe and secure, which is why we’re in the market. DL ■ http://www.edelrid.de/en pr om ag.c om

BLACK DIAMOND WOMEN’S VECTOR £74.99

OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 47

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GEAR GUIDE

Cutting Edge DAVID LINTERN AND LUCY WALLACE PUT THE LATEST MOUNTAINEERING GEAR TO THE TEST. EDELRID BEAST LITE CRAMPONS £240 Launched in early 2014, my test pair saw some action before the season changed, and have been at work again on indoor ice walls in the run up to the new season. I’ve been impressed with the ease of set up, switching from dual to monopoints with gloved hands in a couple of minutes. They come with a choice of interchangeable step in or semi automatic bindings and anti balling plates, making them in some respects, very versatile. Designed primarily for steep terrain, built with lightweight hardened aluminium with forged steel front points, these weigh in at a phenomenally low 620-680g a pair, depending on binding and point set up. Edelrid warn that due to their light construction they are not suitable for rocky terrain, which limits their use in Scotland somewhat, but for days when walking in and out of a climb with bare boots, (I did this every day on a climbing trip to Rjukan for example), they are a bit of a game changer. With the monopoint set up they feel remarkably light and nimble on steep ground. With two points, I’m looking for stability and I’d prefer a longer set of secondary points to rest against as these don’t engage with the ice much and the placement can feel a bit rickety. For some reason this bothers me less in the monopoint configuration!

The Beast Lite would also be suitable as a light weight pair of crampons for snow climbs on easier gradients (away from rock), but check the fit with plastic ski touring boots- they are too asymmetric for mine. LW ■ http://www.edelrid.de

PATAGONIA MEN’S NANO AIR JACKET £180 This is a really simple, highly effective piece of synthetic insulation, beautifully made. It has the JEEP factor – just enough essential parts – there’s nothing fussy or unnecessary here, it just does what it sets out to do, really well. The blurb reads that you can ‘put it on, and leave it on’ which has proven true in my case. There’s a 60g fill insulation used throughout, and strategically placed seams seem to be holding that insulation in place and preventing cold spots, despite a fair few outings and the odd shower. Talking of which, DWR can’t be expected to last forever but it’s still going strong here. The fit is boxy and comfortable on my size medium, allowing me to layer a mid underneath and stick a shell on top without too much compression. The sleeves seem to be cut on the bias and the loose elasticated binding on the cuffs work well to seal in warmth without any hint of reducing circulation in the arms. It just feels like it’s moving and stretching with me, not like I’m moving inside it, which is why I have such a warm glow about it! There’s a very tidy chest phone pocket and two handwarmers high enough to avoid a harness at least in part, all zippered. It’s not as compressible as some synthetic pieces I own but I have the feeling it’s going to last longer than my two winter season average. It’s also really light for the amount of warmth – 345gms feels like great value. When you add in that all Patagonia gear can be fully recycled through its Common Threads program there’s nothing here not to like. Available in a hoody version. Cosy. DL ■ www.patagonia.com/eu www.mountainpromag.com

OSPREY VARIANT 52 £140 Commenting on this I can’t help using the phrase ‘feature rich’, so now that’s out of the way, Osprey have pretty much thrown everything at this sack and it’s made for an interesting test. Firstly, the size: I’ve got 70 litre bags that aren’t as sympathetic as this. It really swallows gear and then some, packing wide as well as high under a removable floating lid. The material feels durable and I can vouch for it’s water resistance, but that ability to swallow gear is a double-edged sword – it’s flexible but also lacks the structure of more traditional winter sacks if not stuffed to the gunnels.

The front panel conceals a very useful crampon shield, and the ice tool bungees are simple and work well, meaning your winter sharps are stored securely outside the pack. The top part of the panel is also great for jamming everything from shovels to jackets, but I’d have liked to see the ability to completely detach this, in the same way as the lid, which has large inside and outside pockets and is very useful.

With the lid off, an efficient weather seal flap comes into play, which prevents water ingress very effectively. There are ski hoops on the side panels and rack carries on both sides of the hipbelt, which is attached very securely by Velcro and inside a fabric sheath but can be removed to accommodate a harness. It’s an OK weight at 1.56kg, given the features. Perhaps most importantly, the carry is great – a simple but effective foam backpanel and shoulder straps providing more than enough padding to support heavy winter loads with ease. So what’s my reservation? It feels a bit, well, baggy. I lost track of which strap attached to what buckle countless times. The load never felt unstable as such but did feel wide for a winter sack. A little more stiffness to the fabric and a simplified, less strappy design would take this beyond very good and into really great. DL ■ www.ospreyeurope.com OCTOBER 2014 | Mountain Pro 49

TRIED AND TESTED

Tried & Tested

CHANTELLE KELLY SPOKE TO ROCK CLIMBER, INSTRUCTOR AND FORMER WELSH INTERNATIONAL FELL RUNNER CALUM MUSKET. Calum discovered climbing at the tender age of 13 in the mountains of Snowdonia, and was instantly hooked. He now has over 7 years experience climbing in the European Alps, Patagonia and Yosemite. Calum is now a qualified climbing instructor, but also offers guided walks, fell running and coaching sessions.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KIT, AND WHY? It generally depends on where I am and what I’m doing but I love the lightweight Rab Continuum Jackets which are incredibly warm for their weight and can pack conveniently into a pocket that you can clip to your harness. Perfect for those summer days when the evening begins to draw in but also an essential layer when I’m climbing in winter as you can still fit a 50 Mountain Pro | OCTOBER 2014

waterproof over the top.

WHAT PIECE OF KIT DO YOU OFTEN USE THE MOST? I generally use my Black Diamond Camalots the most when I’m out climbing in the UK or the Alps. They’re useful camming devices which you can slot in crevices in rock faces and their size and shape seem to work really well on any rock type. Sturdy, reliable and light just like all the best kit should be!

WHAT PIECE OF EQUIPMENT MAKES YOU PERSONALLY FEEL MOST SAFE? I personally don’t have a piece of gear in particular that makes me feel most safe. I like to think that all my gear is 100% reliable as when you’re half way up a rock face you can’t allow for faulty kit. This just means you have to be a little

more selective with what you use and knowing the durability of your equipment is essential.

IS THERE A PARTICULAR BRAND YOU ALWAYS USE, OR WOULD RECOMMEND? I’m fortunate enough to be sponsored by Rab, Black Diamond and Scarpa who are three world leaders in the clothing, hardwear and footwear that they produce. I know that all the products these manufacturers make go through rigorous testing and the design teams are working at the cutting edge.

For more information about Calum Muskett, visit his website: www.muskettmountaineering. co.uk Or follow him on Twitter: @CalumMuskett www.mountainpromag.com

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