Acne - Research & Addition

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Acne Studios

Morena Chiriano, Debora Ferrara, Chiara Gronchi


bout the brand

Brief history Acne Studios is a Stockholm-based luxury fashion house with a multidisciplinary approach. Through founder and Creative Director Jonny Johansson’s interest in photography, art, architecture and contemporary culture, an alternative path has been found, turning Acne Studios into a wellrespected creator of ready-to-wear, magazines, furniture, books and exhibitions and special collaborations.

Founded in 1996 as part of the creative collective ACNE, an acronym for Associated Computer Nerd Enterprises that was later changed to Ambition

to Create Novel Expressions. In 1997, cofounder Jonny Johansson created 100 pairs of raw denim jeans with red stitching and gave them away to friends and family. Wallpaper* and Vogue Paris quickly picked up on the popularity of the jeans and Acne Studios rapidly expanded their fashion offering outside of denim. In 2006, Acne Studios became a standalone company and separated from other entities within the collective ACNE such as Acne Film, Acne Advertising and Acne Digital, at the same time launching their e-commerce. Since launching, Acne Studios has grown into a global fashion house with retail stores around the world including Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, Antwerp and Tokyo, offering women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections, showing at Paris Fashion Week twice a year and turning over $215 million annually in 2016. Size: The company has an annual turnover of around 200 MEUR and a total number of staff of more than 600, with around 150 working at the headquarters in the Old Town of Stockholm. Acne Studios also operate offices in Paris, New York, Oslo and Copenhagen. Acne paper


About the brand

Stores Acne Studios has over 45 retail locations around the world including Stockholm (flagship store), Copenhagen, Munich, Berlin, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Milan, Melbourne, Sydney, Antwerp, London (flagship store), Paris (flagship store), Oslo, Hong Kong, Tokyo (flagship store), New York City (flagship store), Los Angeles (flagship store), Seoul, Beijing, and Shanghai. Headquarters: Stockholm, Sweden. Offices: Sweden: Acne Studios Head Office, Stockholm. Europe/Asia: Acne Studios Office/Showroom, Paris, France. Norway: Acne Studios Office/Showroom, Oslo. USA/Canada: Acne Corp New York Office, New York, NY. Production : Bulgaria, China, Romania, Turkey, Tunisia, Albania, France, Italy, Korea, Republic of, Latvia, Lithuania, Morocco, Poland, Portugal.

Acne Studios HeadQuarter, Lilla Nygatan 23, Stockholm

ACNE Kรถpenhamn Lighting - FLOS Sverige Architecture BOZARTFORNELL Architects

ACNE Paris Ligtning - FLOS Sverige Architecture BOZARTHFORNELL Architects ACNE New York Lightning - FLOS Sverige Architecture BOZARTHFORNELL Architects


About the

rand

brand lines: women, men, children, bla konst Sales: Sales can’t be found with official stores, in the official site of the company neither, but customers have to sign up to and then they receive news about Acne Studios collections, events and sales. Otherwise, sales can be found in several shopping online sites, such as Mytheresa.com, yoox. com and in stores and online sites of the most important luxurious chains, like Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and so on. pricing: outwear $310-2700 tops $400-700 dresses: $400-1200 denim: $300-550 bags: $200-1550 shoes: $380-700 apparel categories: Acne Studios design men’s and women’s ready-to-wear fashion, footwear, denim, and accessories including handbags, small leather goods, and eyewear.


TARGET TARGET TARGET TAR

female 25-45 years old middle/upper class with high income level higly educated, likely to work in creative industries (fashion/design/graphic/ architecture) live in the city centres/urban areas self confident, eccentric, unconventional, creative, outgoing, strong personality, open- minded free time: shows, exhibitions, film, theatre, art, travel, conferences.

creative different surprising confident quirky unconvention minimal bold


MOOD BRAND MOOD BRA quircky bold minimal color block art


FW20 FW21 FW21 FW21

FW21 capsule collection womenswear Art is one of the most relevant Acne’s core value. Combining that with design thinking, which is behind every collection, the idea arises spontaneously: BAUHAUS. Bauhaus, literally “building house”, is a school, a movement and art itself. It involves graphic works, architecture and interiors, and starting from 1919 it proceeds with the same design idea we have today. Red, yellow, blu, (green), are key colors combined in color blocking with grey nuances; circles, straight lines and other simple geometric elements, used alone or in collages, are the graphic essence of Bauhaus and of our collection. The concept presents a selection of artworks, which can fit the brand’s aesthetic.


Concept board


Fabric board


Fabric story

The collection is focused on Bauhaus and is designed to be Autumn / Winter 2020. The selection of fabrics includes 26 fabrics, some heavier, such as woolen cloth or a silk and wool blend, others lighter, such as shirt fabrics made from 100% cotton. The color palette shows 11 shades. Of these, four are neutral colors: black (ink), white (savoye) and two gray (concrete gray and chimney); three are primary colors: yellow (idea), red (elementary red) and blue (blue meter); finally there are four undertones: green, (semaphore green and neon green), orange (spartakia) and light blue (denim). Colors are used according to color blocking rules, following the aesthetics of the brand, or combined in prints and patterns. The selection of fabrics can be divided into four fabric stories. The first includes a grey jersey fabric, two solid fabrics (a gray and a green one), a red gabardine, a gray-toned variant of the original yarn dye striped, the Oskar Schlemmer print, a black and white plaid with a red geometric embroidery machine and the macro version of the original print (Geometric Idioms). Within this group the neutral tones of gray, black and white are combined with red and green. While red is the predominant color of the first fabric story, green remains rather an accent, declined in details. A characteristic piece of this group is the red gabardine, designed especially for bottoms, which combines one of the key elements of the brand, denim, with key colors. The hero print of the group is the macro version of Geometric Idioms, designed for outerwear. The second fabric story plays with shades of blue, white, black mixed with red and orange

accents, used in textures. Specifically, the fabrics included in this group are: a traditional denim, a heavy herringbone fabric, the original yarn dye striped (with a black ground and red, yellow and blue stripes), a blue wool melton, a black white jacquard and finally a black and blue white plaid. In this case the predominant color is the metro blue, declined in different patterns and textures. The hero fabric is the blue woolen cloth, aimed at outwear. For the third group, seven fabrics were selected in shades of black, gray and green. As accent color there is yellow, present inside the color variant of Geometric Idioms. The predominant material is wool, which appears inside the plaid and dubbed fabric. Then we find a ribbed knit printed with black and white stripes, a fabric with fringed layered applique embellishment and finally a synthetic fabric with a geometric quilting. The latter is the strong element of the group, intended for suits or strong pieces of the line. The last fabric story plays on shades of gray and gives a particular relevance to architectural elements, which appear in patterns and prints. The predominant color is yellow, used both in solid fabrics and in motifs. The fabrics included are a pinstripe bouclĂŠ, a yellow textured shirt fabric, the Geometric Idioms print with white background, a white and blue striped print, and finally two jacquards, respectively Le Corbusier, in shades of gray, and Joseph Albers, with blue lines and paintings on a white background. Here the protagonist fabric is the pinstripe with black background and multicolored stripes with a bouclĂŠ thread, designed for dresses and suits.

424C

1645C

711C

5425

chimney grey

spartakia

elementary red

denim

7687C

2420

7739C

426C

metro blu

neon green

semphor green

ink black

421C

395C

1-1-C

concrete grey

idea

savoye white


Original print + pitch sheet

original print Geometric idioms

pitch sheet colorways Geometric idioms


Original yarn dye + recolored yarn dye

original yarn dye Stripes - Piet Mondrian

2420

424C

neon green

chimney grey

7739C

421C

semphor green

concrete grey

yarn dye colorways 1 Stripes - Piet Mondrian

yarn dye colorways 2 Stripes - Piet Mondrian


Looks Long trench coat with padded shoulder and extra-long sleeves, fabric belt, realized with “geometric idiom” macro print. Oversize t-shirt “Lena Bergner” machine embroidery. Wide-leg denim trousers, realized with polycotton red gabardine.

Circular cloack in blue wool melton, with big zip on the center. Turtleneck realized with jacquard “Oscar Sclemmer”. Straight pants in yarn-dye stripes “Piet Mondrian”.

Suit in neon green Moholy-Nagy quiliting, jacket with padded shoulder and big rever detail, two buttons; mini skirt. Sweater realized with Le Courbusier plaid and ribbed/knit on cuffs and neck.

Oversize yellow shirt realized with textured woven cotton. Sheath dress in pinstriped with bouclé.


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