Emilio Pucci - Brand Analysis & Addition

THE PRINCE OF PRINTS fall winter 2017 Emilio Pucci / print research / Casano Catherine Textile Design & Approval Process / Spring 2019 Debora Ferrara

emilio pucci_history

The story of Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento, fashion designer, began unexpectedly in 1947 when a streamlined and revolutionary ski outfit he designed for a friend was photographed by Toni Frissell and published in Harper’s Bazaar.

Working out of his grand Palazzo, still the current headquarters of the Maison, the designer began showing his collections to the international press and buyers in Florence in 1951.

He became an instant hit with American retailers who were enthralled by the explosive colours and the wearability of his simple designs.

His effortless, elegant clothing took women from day to evening and from jets to seaside cocktail parties, perfectly capturing the new sportswear sensibility and complementing the glamour of the high-rolling, jet set crowd. Throughout the 1960s and 70s, the brand zoomed to popularity.

He was crowned “The Prince of Prints” by the international fashion press who were smitten by his bold, new designs and radical

approach to fashion at the time. His creations were feminine, glamorous and joyful, featuring eclectic combinations of motifs.

Like an artist, he signed all of his designs “Emilio”. His designs were prized by world-renown female icons, including Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.

Ever ahead of his time, Emilio Pucci also used his design talent in a variety of non-fashion projects, including futuristic uniforms for flight attendants, the logo for the Apollo 15 space mission, porcelain tableware, bath towels and the interior of the Ford Lincoln Continental Mark IV. Upon his death in 1992 Emilio’s daughter, Laudomia Pucci, took over her father’s business.

In May 2000 LVMH acquired a controlling share of the company.

Since then, the Florentine brand has built its global store network to more than 50 stores, strikingly designed to embody the brand’s identity and modernity, and stretching from Paris to Tokyo and from Palm Beach to Moscow.

emilio pucci_brand identity

The designs of Emilio Pucci are instantly recognizable and present a lively femininity style that breaks with convention of Italy fashion industry since 1947.

Emilio Pucci is known as its fusion colour and unique geometric patterns with pop art style, which shows its distinctive character comparing with other brands and standing out from competitively luxury fashion.

The biggest impact of Emilio Pucci made to fashion industry is he gave women the chances to escape conservative clothing from traditional thought and facilitated them into business.

fall winter 2017 RTW

The path that Massimo Giorgetti, the brand’s newish creative director, is currently on has been marked by complications.

When he arrived, he was so keen to modernize this historic house he ignored the trademark prints and jersey completely.

Over the seasons, he’s more or less reconciled himself to them.

Massimo Giorgetti brought on the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week is a veritable hymn to color.

There are strong, bright and neon that are put in full prominence especially from the first releases: monochromatic outfits that play with the combination of smooth textures and satin, sequined or fringed, bright and opaque.

Then come the iconic prints of the house, declined this time

on velvet, cloth, jersey, chiffon, organza or embroidered duvet surfaces almost to appear 3D. The accessories go for a perfect match with the scenographic and irreverent dresses.

In the sign of a total look that banishes any shyness.

Eager to expand beyond Pucci prints, Massimo Giorgetti has been digging into the “total color” side of the house archive for the past couple of seasons. “I will always love print,” he said before the fall show. “But Emilio Pucci can be a color brand, optimistic and positive.”

Prints patterns can be found also on accessories, especially in suicases.

collection overview

color palette_pantone&CMYK

Black panther

Brown bough

Cinders

Whitest

Pucci orange

C M Y K 62-50-49-97

54-53-58-82

32-26-28-4

0-1-1-0 Blue boat

Barbie

Antique pink

Green garden

Green apple

2-52-98-0

77-34-2-1 1-75-23-0 2-37-46-0 79-5-96-0 34-1-42-0

prints_focus

paisley prints

animalier prints

geometric prints

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paisley prints_inspirations

paisley prints_analysis

Graphic paisley prints.

Giorgetti’s first original print for the house. Paisley pattern is an ornamental design using the buta or boteh, a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Persian origin, paisley designs became very popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post-Mughal Empire versions of the design from India, especially in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then imitated locally. Although the fig- or almond-like form is of Persian origin, its English name derives from the town of Paisley, in the West of Scotland, a centre for textiles where paisley designs were produced.

This is an iconic print for the house and for this reason it’s declined in four versions and printed on several fabrics, such as jersey, chiffon, velvet, cloth, organza.

This patters is also declined as embrodery on duvet fabric surfaces almost to appear 3D (image 5).

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jersey, chiffon, fringe

jersey, silk

Fabric:

Fabric:

Print:

Print:

Pairing with:

Pairing with:

Screen printing All-over micro orange, white, antique pink

Screen printing All-over micro black, white, green apple, brown bough

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jersey, cloth

jersey, fringe, chiffon, cloth

Fabric:

Fabric:

Print:

Print:

Pairing with:

Pairing with:

Screen printing All-over macro orange, black

Screen printing All-over micro black

animalier prints_inspirations

animalier prints_analysis

Graphic animalier prints.

In the collection we can found two kind of animalier pattern, the first one, an all-over, is more abstract and it seems a oil painting.

It presents different shades of black or brown, that only digital printing is able to do.

This print can be fount in two outfits, two silk suits, one in green and brown, and the other in orange and black.

The second animalier pattern is clearer and more defined.

It’s a screen printing and it is repeated in three different colors: green and brown, orange and black, white and black.

In one look the two prints are mixed in a green hue.

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Fabric:

Fabric:

Print:

Print:

Pairing with:

Pairing with:

jersey, silk Digital printing All-over total look, monothone

jersey, wool cloth Screen printing All-over total look

geometric prints_inspirations

geometric prints_analysis

Graphic geometric prints.

In this third pattern, lines are the protagonist, we can see two kind of geometric pattern, both screen printing: the first one in which opposite diagonal lines are mixed, through different colors as well.

There are two color versions, for each one there are two looks where they are present.

In two looks we can see this diagonal pattern as embrodery through sequins in oversize trasparent coat.

The second lines pattern is composed by several pieces put together of rhombus in different colors.

There is a only look with this pattern.

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jersey, velvet

jersey, velvet

silk

Fabric:

Fabric:

Fabric:

Print:

Print:

Print:

Pairing with:

Pairing with:

Pairing with:

Screen printing All-over macro antique fabric

pink,

Screen printing All-over macro transparent

barbie, transparent fabric

Screen printing All-over total look

the hero print_analysis

The hero prints of this collection is the paisley pattern.

In particular the company chose a specific version of paisley pattern, that with grey backgroung.

This pattern has been used as catwalk surface and as background for advertising campaign.

Paisley pattern can be found, among the looks, in five different versions of colors, as print or embrodery, all-over micro and macro.

The pattern includes declinations as accessories, like necklace, suitcases, bags and hat-fringed.