Beauty l Nikon l Selfies l Cocktail l Shoe tech l Music l
fresh eye
Magazine
Issue 11. November 2016 Photography Lifestyle Culture
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Contents
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40 40 fresh eye
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l Lana Del Ray
Feel the music.
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4 6 10 12 30 34
l Jazz Legend
Miles Davis log.
l Concept Car Won’t you buy me a Mercedes Benz?
l Ugly vs Beautiful
Beauty talk and Cara. l Photo Firework
Captering the moment. l Nikon J5. 1 Series
Mirrorless contender? l The selfie movement
Endulging thyself. l Cocktail Hour
What to wear for men. l Self lacing shoe tech
Nike HyperAdapt.
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Cover: Vaux Le Vicomte Gardens. Paris
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Ugly vs Beatiful
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Cara’s beauty
ara Delevingne the muse took the fashion world by storm.The industry has given her the perfect platform to become one of the world’s most famous supermodels, and recently the opportunity to pursue her passion for acting. The 23 year old supermodel made her debut in the fashion industry with one famous feature, which as a result created a beauty industry overhaul! Her bushy brows heralded the comeback of the natural look and convinced an entire nation to ‘ditch the tweezers’! Popularity This model’s down to earth mentality adds to her likeability. Her off duty to do list usually consists of catching up with friends, family and sleep. Due to her hectic life style she finds the simple pleasures in life the most satisfying. Being in the public eye and having huge popularity on social media has meant that Cara has racked up more than 18 million followers. This for most would spark an ego overload, however she uses this platform to let her fans know how grateful she is for their continued support, as this ignites her inspiration and motivation.
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Beauty
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Sophie says.....
and what it is to be beautified. Sophie Fitzjohn Special affects The life of a model isn’t always photo shoots and designer gowns. As Cara knows more than most. She openly shared her personal traumas via Twitter, on a subject many shy away from. Her public discussion about her struggle with depression opened doors for many also in the same predicament, and her mantra of ‘mental health goes unseen, but shouldn’t go unheard’ resonated with many. Cara’s busy life created an escape for her from her illness but as a result ended in exhaustion. In addition, she also developed psoriasis, a visible skin affliction that has to be covered up with make-up, with her job being all about her image this was a particularly hard time. She has been the target for unkind opinions due to this issue, which ironically reflects how there is an ugly side to the beauty industry. Transition Cara’s fashion journey hasn’t been an easy one. However, she is currently starring in the new Suicide Squad Movie and pursuing her love of acting. She is also an aspiring musician, therefore proving that no obstacle is too big to overcome. The fashion industry is aspirational for many, however is not always as beautiful on the inside as it seems on the outside.
‘I think it’s nice to break down that barrier, that models are seen and not heard.’
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Photo Firework
14 considered tips on shooting fireworks. TIPS: Use the right equipment: use a sturdy tripod and remote to fire the camera and bring an extra battery as long exposures tend to use them up quickly.
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Set your ISO low like 100 or 200, for a couple reasons. First the higher the ISO you use the more noise you’ll introduce into your images, so keep it low to prevent that. Noise also lives in blue areas of images and nighttime has a lot of blue so that compounds the issue. Long exposures also tend to increase noise so if you add it all up you get a lot of noise so keep the ISO low to eliminate that variable.
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Turn OFF long exposure noise reduction. This setting, while it does a really good job of noise reduction, adds an extra complication you don’t need when doing photography of fireworks. The way it works is that if you take say a 10 second exposure, it takes a second one of equal length but just black (the shutter doesn’t open). Then it merges the two together and blends the blank one into the shadow areas of the first one which is where noise typically shows the most. The problem is that fireworks happen so fast you don’t want to have to wait 10 seconds to be able to see your image, make any adjustments and shoot again.
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Do NOT use live view if your camera has it. This will eat up your battery really fast. Live view is really for shooting video and using the display screen so much uses a lot of power, as does making long exposures. Save your battery for actually shooting and set up your shot using the eyecup viewfinder.
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Set your camera on Manual mode for exposure and set your aperture to f5.6 or f8. Those apertures are pretty optimal for fireworks as the light streaks are controlled by the size of the aperture. Closing down more will make the light trails thinner, opening up more will make them wider and possible too over exposed.
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Set your shutter speed to between two and ten seconds. Do a test shot before the show starts and see if the sky is too dark or too bright and adjust the exposure time accordingly. As long as you’re under 30 seconds you can let the camera time the shots for you. Or you can switch to Bulb and just open and close manually when you feel you’ve captured enough bursts in one image.
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Focus your lens ahead of time, and then turn off AF otherwise the camera will keep trying to refocus every shot and you
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may end up with missed images or blurry fireworks if the camera misses. Assuming you’re a fair distance away from the fireworks you shouldn’t have to refocus at all unless you change your angle of view or want to focus somewhere else, like the people in front of you.
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Use a neutral density filter to get a longer exposure if need be. If it’s not 100% dark out yet it (the sky still has some light) this will allow you to get a longer exposure and make sure the fireworks bursts have a nice arch. If your exposure is too short you’ll end up with short stubby looking bursts, not the nice umbrella shaped ones. If yours are too short, just make the exposure time longer. If you are getting too many bursts in one shot and it’s coming out over exposed, shorten the exposure time. Using the ND filter if it IS dark will also allow you to shoot longer exposures and capture more bursts per image. Play with that and try it with and without the filter if you have one. A polarizing filter will work to a lesser degree also.
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Shoot most of your shots at the start of the show to avoid the smoke/haze that appears a bit later. Eventually the sky will be filled with smoke and it’s not as pretty looking. That’s when I’ll try some close ups or abstracts.
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Scout your location ahead of time and get there early to get a good spot, think about background (what’s behind the show) and if you want the people around and in front of you as part of the shot. In general the good viewing areas fill up sometimes 1-2 hours prior to the fireworks show. If you want
a good spot with enough room for you and your tripod, go early and take a good book or something to entertain you while you wait
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Make sure you leave enough room in your frame to anticipate the height of the opened bursts. Adjust as necessary if you miss on the first shot – it’s a lot of trial and error and correcting. It’s often hard to tell where the highest fireworks will end up in the sky, you may want to try both horizontal and vertical compositions.
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It takes a bit of practice to time your shots when you hear the fireworks being released, so ideally you capture a few bursts. Do some testing to see how many bursts is just right for your taste. Try some with more, and some with less. Having too many may overexpose the overall image, so keep that in mind.
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Try some telephoto shots as well as the usual wide, try some close ups zoomed in tighter for something a bit more abstract. For this you will need to aim basically into thin air and try to anticipate where the bursts will open
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If you have a zoom lens try zooming during the exposure and see what you get! If you’re going to try this make sure you have focused at the most zoomed in point of the lens. Try different technique including counting 1/2 the exposure before you zoom, or zooming right away and the last 1/2 is zoomed out. Try zooming fast, then slow. Try more bursts, or less. Get some city lights in the shot too.
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Product
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Nikon J5. 1 series
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The affordable mirrorless.
ikon has announced the J5, the latest entry in its idiosyncratic 1 series of mirrorless cameras. And, from the looks of things, it might be the most broadly appealing offering in the line to date — Nikon has added some sensible features and design tweaks while giving the package a more reasonable price Unlike other J-series 1 cameras, which often required a lot of menu-diving to access basic settings, the J5 has a traditional PASM dial to select exposure modes; a secondary command dial helps make adjustments. The screen is now tiltable for the first time, and flexes through a full 180 degrees for those all-important highres selfies. The J5 has a fairly substantial grip, unlike its boxy predecessors, and Nikon has adopted the now-ubiquitous silver and black retro color scheme (all-black and silver/white options will also be available). The 1-inch sensor (2.7x crop factor) has been upgraded to 20.8 megapixels from the J4’s 18.4, the autofocus system has 171 contrast-detect and 105 phase-detect points, and the camera features a new Expeed 5A processor that allows for 20 fps still shooting with continuous focus, or 60 fps with single focus. The J5 can also shoot 4K video, albeit only at 15 fps. Fast performance and solid image processing have always been a hallmark of the 1 cameras, for all
their other faults, and the J5 should continue this. But , the 1-inch sensor still remains far behind just about every mirrorless competitor, meaning the J5 shouldn’t be the camera of choice for anyone concerned with shallow depth of field, strong low-light performance, or the ability to mount lenses from other systems. And despite the lack of interchangeable lenses, Sony’s RX100 line of compact cameras remain great buys, with the same size and resolution sensor in smaller bodies with tiny collapsible zoom lenses that are faster than anything Nikon offers for the 1 series. Although there are certainly stronger mirrorless offerings out there for enthusiasts from the likes of Fujifilm, Olympus, and Sony, the J5 might be worth a look if you prioritize speed, size, and simplicity in an interchangeable lens camera rather than pro-level image quality — not to mention affordability. It isn’t enough to convince that Nikon is taking the mirrorless market altogether seriously, but it’s by far the easiest 1 series camera to imagine people buying.
The 1-inch sensor (2.7x crop factor) has been upgraded to 20.8 megapixels from the J4’s 18.4
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Indulge thyself The selfie became a language and an expression of the self. Social media and celebrity culture adorn this modern day version of the self portrait. Life immitates art or is art immitating life?
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- BeyoncĂŠ First there was the toilet wall, then came Twitter. Instagram gave birth to a visual loud hailer. Perhaps Becky with the good hair drinks Lemonade.
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- Oscar Winner Probably the most famous selfie of recent times. Well worthy of a nomination.
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- Justin Beiber At the beginning of growing tatoo collection.
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- Taylor Swift and friends It appears that Girl Power is in need of a little help from the bikini.
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- Rihanna Attempting to take centre stage just in case the laggage up-staged her. Did you see what I did there?
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- Kim Kardashian During her movement of recording the face in various states of burn and peel.
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- Kylie, Kim and Kendall No KKK jokes appropriate here , more a display of cclebrity and family union.
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- Zooey Deschanel ‘New Girl’ bemused by her own hair or the surprising blueness of her eyes. You decide.
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- Diaz, Stewart and McCartney Some say three’s a crowd but the law of photography begs to differ.
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-Borack and friends This infamous moment caught at the funeral of Nelson Mandela whilethe First Lady is seemingly unimpressed.
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- Nicky Minaj Rod Stewart once coined the phrase “ Do you think I’m sexy?’ - Well do ya?
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- Amber Rose Keeping up appearencs for the purpose of trending is an every day accurance for celebrity brand awareness.
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- Cameron Diaz It appears that the occasional frolick is as worthy of capture as is the snapping of one’s lunch.
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- Kim Kardasian Female empowerment storm brewed in a celebrity tea cup.
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- Taylor Swift A much delayed reaction to the Grammy’s stage invasion by Kanye. Perhaps she should just ‘Shake it off ’.
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www.buckitt.co.uk
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Cocktail hour Tradition comes of age for the fashionable male.
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ortunately there are refinements of tradition that we can all still enjoy. The cocktail hour is no exception and the detail I’m sure can be what some rely on for the amplification of such an experience. The purpose of a cocktail hour is to provide invitees with an atmosphere conducive to informal socializing and mingling, not to create a roomful of intoxicated guests. Hosts should provide music suitable for the occasion, along with plenty of opportunities for comfortable seating and casual eating. A good gathering should put all the guests in a receptive mood for the dinner event itself. An extended cocktail hour also allows early birds and the fashionably late to both be satisfied. What to wear Nowadays, when you receive an invitation it may read Cocktail Attire, Black Tie Optional, or Formal, but what exactly does that mean? Back in the day, things were simpler: The dress code was either Black Tie for less formal evening occasions and White Tie for more formal ones. The women’s dresses were chosen accordingly. Today, for many men the tuxedo is the most formal garment they will ever wear, and even then it is just rented. So, we’ve established cocktail parties
are supposed to be relaxed occasions, and although not wrong per se, a classic navy or charcoal business suit is probably a tad too formal. During the winter, you can wear flannel, with patterns, maybe a bow tie. Be more daring than with your business wardrobe and pay attention to accessories such as cuff links, tie bars, pocket squares, boutonnieres (buttonholes)… but don’t overdo it and only use two accents at the most. Bold patterns are not as easily accepted as traditional darker hues, but a well-fitted windowpane suit can also work really well. Avoid a black suit some stylists might say however I’m not sure if Mr Bond would adhere to that particulary style tip. Wear your suit with a pair of brogues, oxfords or monk-straps. Conceived in the twenties and thirties, cocktail attire should always be balanced, offering a refined nod to the past but also portraying a contemporary sartorial story. Maintaining a balance between formal and casual aesthetics should not prove too difficult and the staples needed for cocktail attire are adaptable and can be worn countlessly. Break with traditional and go for separates. Preppies may well opt for such a slant. The trick to perfecting this dress code brief is to juggle traditionalist aesthetic with fitted, youthful silhouette.
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- Tom Ford I am not someone who likes cocktail parties or large dinner parties, but I have to attend them often. I much prefer very small dinners with close friends.
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fresh eye
Fashion
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Help Wikipedia! A cocktail is a mixed drink typically made with a distilled beverage (such as, gin, brandy, vodka, whiskey, tequila, or rum) that is mixed with other ingredients. If beer is one of the ingredients, the drink is called a beer cocktail. Cocktails contain one or more types of liqueur, juice, fruit, sauce, honey, milk or cream, spices, or other flavorings. Cocktails may vary in their ingredients from bartender to bartender, and from region to region. Two creations may have the same name but taste very different because of differences in how the drinks are prepared.
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Technology
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Self Lacing Back to the future with Nike.
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fter a day that Back to the Future posts flooded about 95% of Facebook, the most exciting news of all has been unveiled. Nike has officially announced their Nike MAG (right) with power laces after Michael J. Fox tweeted a video of him putting on the groundbreaking pair of kicks. Mark Parker, CEO of Nike says, “We started creating something for fiction and we turned it into fact, inventing a new technology that will benefit all athletes.” Innovation. Welcome the Nike HyperAdapt 1.0 (left), the first performance vehicle for Nike’s latest platform breakthrough, adaptive lacing. The shoe translates deep research in digital, electrical and mechanical engineering into a product designed for movement. It challenges traditional understanding of fit, proposing an ultimate solution to individual idiosyncrasies in lacing and tension preference. Functional simplicity reduces a typical athlete concern, distraction. “When you step in, your heel will hit a sensor and the system will automatically tighten,” explains Tiffany
Beers, Senior Innovator, NIKE, Inc., and the project’s technical lead. “Then there are two buttons on the side to tighten and loosen. You can adjust it until it’s perfect.” The future forward. “Wouldn’t it be great if a shoe, in the future, could sense when you needed to have it tighter or looser? Could it take you even tighter than you’d normally go if it senses you really need extra snugness in a quick maneuver? That’s where we’re headed (says Tinker Hatfield Nike shoe designer). In the future, product will come alive.”
“We started creating something for fiction and we turned it into fact, inventing a new technology that will benefit all athletes.” Mark Parker, CEO of Nike,
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Photography
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Iconic Irving Penn was an American photographer known for his fashion photography, portraits, and still lifes. Penn’s career included work at Vogue magazine, and independent advertising work for clients including Issey Miyake and Clinique. This rousing image - Al pacino (A), New York, October 20 , 1995 - a good example of Irvings ability to pull more from a portrait than just the expression. Pacino looks stirred here enabling the viewer to be stirred. Is this an actor’s ability to play the part or perhaps a photographer that got the most from his subject?
- Irving Penn -
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Miss ever so slightly Lana Del Rey’s vintage sounds.
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lizabeth Woolridge Grant (born June 21, 1985), better known by her stage name Lana Del Rey, American singer, songwriter, and model. Born and raised in New York City, Del Rey embarked on a music career in 2005 and first received widespread attention in 2011, when the music video for her single “Video Games” became a viral internet sensation. Del Rey received further recognition after her major-label debut Born to Die peaked at number two on the U.S. charts and was the fifth best-selling album of 2012. A remix of its single “Summertime Sadness”, produced by Cedric Gervais, peaked at number six on the U.S., and the Paradise EP followed that November, garnering Del Rey her first Grammy nomination for Best Pop Vocal Album..
Grimes, Del Rey released her fourth studio album, Honeymoon. It also received positive critical and commercial response; the album had the fourth highest first week sales by a female artist in 2015. As of 2015, Del Rey is the most streamed female artist on Spotify in the United States, and the fourth worldwide. Her music has been noted for its cinematic style, its preoccupation with themes of tragic romance and melancholia, and its references to pop culture, particularly 1950s and 1960s Americana.
Retro. In 2014, Del Rey released her third studio album, Ultraviolence, which received positive critical and commercial reception; it became her first number-one record in the United States. In 2015, following a North American tour with Courtney Love and
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Haunting
“A lot of the time when I write about the person that I love, I feel like I’m writing about New York.”
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“I used to wonder if it was God’s plan that I should be alone for so much of my life. But I found peace. I found happiness within people and the world.” Before she became LRD, Elizabeth Grant made an album called ‘Sirens’ under the name May Jailer.
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“If you are born an artist, you have no choice but to fight to stay an artist.�
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Legend
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Tuneful... So what Legend, icon, bench mark, Miles Davis.
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idely considered one of the most influential and innovative musicians of the 20th century. Miles Dewey Davis III, , better known as Miles Davis was an American jazz musician, trumpeter, bandleader, and composer. Together with his musical groups, at the forefront of several major developments in jazz music, including bebop, cool jazz, third stream, modal jazz, post-bop and jazz fusion. In 2006, Davis was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, which recognized him as one of the key figures in the history of jazz. In 2008, his 1959 album Kind of Blue received its fourth platinum certification from the Recording Industry Association of America (RIAA), for shipments of at least four million copies in the United States. On December 15, 2009, the U.S. House of Representatives passed a symbolic resolution recognizing and commemorating the album Kind of Blue on its 50th anniversary, honoring the masterpiece and reaffirming jazz as a national treasure. SOME INTERESTING FACTS: l He was one of the greatest jazz artists ever. l Some people say he was the greatest musician of the last century. l He played and recorded great jazz for about
40 years! l His album ‘Kind of Blue’ has sold more copies than any other jazz album in history! l He helped to create many different types of jazz, especially ‘cool jazz’. characterized by relaxed tempos and lighter tone. l He was a leading jazz artist in almost every type of jazz that appeared from the late 1940s until the end of his life. The only exception to this is probably ‘free jazz’. l He mainly played the trumpet. However, he also played a trumpet-like instrument called the flugelhorn. l He began his career with Charlie Parker’s group. l After working with Charlie Parker he formed his own groups. Many famous jazz musicians started their careers with Miles Davis—for example, Bill Evans, John Coltrane and Herbie Hancock. l The group that made ‘Kind of Blue’ is known as the ‘First Great Quintet’ (‘quintet’ means five musicians playing together). There was also a ‘Second Great Quintet’ a few years later. l At the end of the 1960s he also began to mix jazz and rock music. l He liked using bad language and was often quite rude. This earned him the nickname ‘Prince of Darkness’.
Born: 26th May 1926 in Alton, Illinois, USA. Died: 28th September 1991 in Santa Monica, California, USA.
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Concept Car
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Conceive Bend me, shape me, feel me
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ercedes’ Maybach brand has been the definition of luxury when it comes to cars and continuing the tradition, Mercedes has unveiled the concept of its Maybach 6 coupe which is nothing short of an electric luxury yatch, an all-electric excess in luxury. The Mercedes-Maybach 6 Concept has a modern interior and exterior classic design. Although there are two analog gauges set atop the steering column, they’re dwarfed by the digital display screen that runs the full width of the dash and even onto the door panels. Additionally, the windshield itself functions as a giant head-up display and is operated via gesture controls. Continuing the wraparound theme, the seat bottoms extend up into the door panels and the center console. The seats themselves are upholstered in white leather, with button tufting that’s supposed to suggest a chesterfield sofa. Rather than carpet, the floor is covered in open-pore elm wood, which continues up
onto the lower door panels, for what Mercedes characterizes as “a refined yachting look.” Metal accents are rose gold. There is also a striking contrast between the Maybach red paintwork and the chrome strips which sit above the wheel arches and in the centre of the bonnet and boot lid. A reinterpretation of the Mercedes-Maybach radiator grille with its fine, vertical struts accentuates the front end. The extended, round “boat tail” format of the Vision Mercedes-Maybach 6’s rear recalls a luxury yacht. According to mercedes-benz.com “The output of the drive system is 550 kW (750 PS). The shallow underfloor battery has a usable capacity of approx. 80 kWh. This not only allows performance characteristics typical of a sports car (acceleration from 0‑100 km/h in under four seconds, top speed electronically governed at 250 km/h) but also a range of over 500 kilometres according to the NEDC (over 200 miles according to EPA).”
MercedesMaybach 6 Concept
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iPhone 6s Campaign. Photographer: Christopher Anderson