Magasin Höga Kusten ENGLISH Edition 2019

H Ö G A

K U S T E N

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The golden season

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MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN PUBLISHING AB mail@magasinhogakusten.com | www.magasinhogakusten.com 0660 - 701 07

Peder Sundström

EDITORIAL TEAM

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Håkan Nordström

Elin Holmberg

Magasin Höga Kusten is produced by Magasin Höga Kusten Publishing AB, which is owned in its entirety by companies based in the region Sundstroem ImageWorks, Didot Reklambyrå, Nordströmbild, Grafisk Kompetens i Norr och TMPH Ö-vik AB. Responsibility cannot be taken for material that has not been specifically requested. Opinions presented by individual writers are not necessarily shared by the editorial team.

Magasin Höga Kusten is printed by Forssa Print. Magasin Höga Kusten is produced using typeface from Hoefler&Co.

VOTED AS SWEDEN’S

most beautiful natural region

FOR 10,000 YEARS, THE HIGH COAST HAS BEEN RISING OUT OF THE SEA.

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he dramatic landscape is constantly changing and boasts some of Sweden’s most prominent landmarks.

The High Coast is mountain tops reaching for the sky and deep, deep valleys, impressive cliffs and meandering forest trails. It is thundering seas and peaceful rivers. The nature here is untouched, unique and majestic. Let yourself lose track of time in nature reserves and the national park. Be amazed by the exciting caves, panoramic views, magical kayaking routes, beaches and exciting flora and fauna. Choose between countless hiking trails, or find a path where no one else has ever been.

Enjoy the aromas and the colours.

Welcome to the High Coast. To the World Heritage Site. It is yours.

IN THE MAGAZINE

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/ 2019

SELECTED N A T U R E A N D A D V E N T U R E S HÖGA KUSTEN - WHY? T H E W O R L D H E R I T A G E S I T E , T H E L A N D S C A P E , OUR FAVOURITE FLAVOURS C U L I N A R Y D E L I G H T S MODERN HIKERS A N E L D O R A D O F O R A L L K I N D S O F H I K E R S INSTAMOMENTS G I V E Y O U R I N S T A A C C O U N T A L I F T THE GOLDEN SEASON W E D O N ’ T O N L Y H U N T M O O S E

THE PLACE

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WELCOME TO ADVENTURE, N AT U R E AND CO M PA N I O N S H I P

THE BEST VIEWS You will find countless fantastic viewpoints along the High Coast, where the sea, endless forests or beautiful rural settlements dominate the landscape. Don’t miss the famous mountain Skuleberget. Or Ögeltjärnsberget by the coast, Dalsberget, which is Sweden’s highest coastal mountain, Hippaberget with its views all the way to Hälsingland, Solberget which is the highest in the region, Stortorget whose views are the High Coast’s most photographed, or Multråberget with its breath-taking views over the river Ångermanälven. Read more about our viewpoints at hogakusten.com

SELECTED

/ NATURE

A WILD DEEP FOREST

3 of many…

GUIDE

...nature reserves, and reasons to experience the High Coast’s amazing viewpoints. Don’t miss:

Granvågsniporna From the top of the sandbank the views looking out over the river and its impressive banks are breathtaking – this is one of the Ådalen valley’s most beautiful sections.

Balesudden The distinctive red rocks and the magical crystal clear waters of Lake Balestjärn are well-known symbols of the High Coast.

Högklinten The mountain with the world’s highest cobble field, 260 metres above sea level, with exceptional views over both Örnsköldsvik and Härnösand.

N AT U R E

The forests in the High Coast are large and substantial. Let yourself be surrounded by the incredible calm of a deep, primeval forest. When inland, you’ll come across the Urskogsleden Trail, which is almost 50 km long and will take you over mountains and rivers and through valleys. By the coast you’ll find Skuleskogen National Park, which is nothing short of a jewel in Mother Nature’s crown. Thirty kilometres of hiking trails will take you through the World Heritage Site’s ancient forests and to the amazing canyon Slåttdalsskrevan.

This close to the coastline, you will see clear evidence of the region’s dramatic land uplift.

Animal safari B OTA N Y

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Representing Ångermanland as one of Sweden’s coolest provincial animals is the beaver.

Imagine sitting in a canoe at dusk on a lovely peaceful evening, paddling quietly along the river trying to spot a beaver. Guaranteed to be an exciting experience. If you are interested in seeing beavers hard at work in the wilderness, take part in a beaver safari – they are arranged by several companies here on the High Coast. Read more at hogakusten.com.

SELECTED

/ ADVENTURE

TRAINING

Our best run

FROM A SEAT OF A KAYAK

The High Coast is home to Sweden’s best and most beautiful trail running terrain. Here are three musts to discover in your running shoes.

Trail runner Emelie Forsberg began her journey to becoming the world star she is today by running on the trails around Hernön. That says it all. Unique and varied trail running.

Skuleskogen National Park in the World Heritage Site has amazingly varied terrain. Beaches and coves, forest streams and coastal mountains several hundred metres high with sweeping views out to sea.

Kålhuvudet Nature Reserve in the northern part of the High Coast region has fantastic trails winding through the ancient forests, with plenty of logs and boulders for you to jump over.

The High Coast is mountains, forests and the sea. The best way to experience the sea is from the seat of a kayak. Gliding across the sea’s surface while trailing your hands in the water is a relaxing and close to euphoric experience. Just you and the sea. Feeling tiny in the vastness of it. The High Coast is said to be the most beautiful, perhaps the most wild, section to paddle along the entire northern Swedish coast. Countless high mountains, the archipelago, amazing views and so you don’t miss the best bays and islands – treat yourselves to a guide to show you around.

We have a list of expert guides on hogakusten.com.

And the biggest is…

OUTDOOR LIFE

Hiking boots, shoes, jackets, trousers, shirts, sleeping bags, tents, kayaks and fishing gear. In Fjällräven’s original factory you will now find Sweden’s largest outdoor store.

Naturkompaniet has become one of the High Coast’s most popular destinations with approximately 100,000 people visiting the outlet every summer.

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Anders Hägglund

N AT U R E

DISCOVER

/ HÖGA KUSTEN

THE WORLD HERITAGE SITE,

the landscape, THE PLACE.

HÖGA KUSTEN phOTO

Peder Sundström

wo r d s

Steven Ekholm

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World Heritage Site isn’t created overnight. For 10,000 years it has been rising steadily up out of the sea, from where the weight of the inland ice had pressed it deep down under the waves. Skerries became islets, became islands, became mountains, became high mountains. In the beginning, the land lift was fast but it has slowed down over the millennia. Today, the rate of rebound is only 0.8 cm per year – but it’s still the fastest in the world!

For a very long time, the area whose coast was becoming increasingly steep had no name. It wasn’t until the late 1800s that geologists starting taking an interest in the unique conditions caused by the land uplift. But the steep coastal stretch between the mouth of the Ångermanälven river in the south and Skagsudde Lighthouse in the north was simply referred to as the Steep Ångermanland Coast for the larger part of the 20th century. Because that is what it was.

Steep. And in Ångermanland. But then things started moving fast. The name Höga Kusten – the High Coast – was coined in the early 1970s. Skuleskogen became a national park in 1984 and in 2000 the High Coast was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, it is the only purely natural World Heritage Site in Sweden.

T H E L A N D U P L I F T , the most dramatic in the world, totals close to 300 metres

since the last ice age. The official World Heritage Site includes the coastal landscape between the bridge Högakustenbron in the south and Örnsköldsvik in the north, but the land uplift’s fantastic and often strange effects on the landscape can be seen over a much larger area. The High Coast region’s four municipalities – Örnsköldsvik, Kramfors, Sollefteå and Härnösand – offer everything from coastal hiking, a national park, unique tunnel caves, till-capped mountains and the world’s highest cobble field, to Sweden’s highest island, Sweden’s second highest lighthouse, dramatically high sandbanks along the river Ångermanälven, magical kayaking in the archipelago and both north-facing and south-facing mountains with plants that really shouldn’t be there. Just to mention a few things. For those interested in outdoor life, the High Coast is a huge playground with countless exciting adventures and outings you can go on.

In the heart of the area is the impressive Skuleberget, with the world’s highest coastline at 286 metres above sea level. At the foot of the mountain under its steep eastern face is the Naturum Visitor Centre where you can learn all about the effects of the land uplift and the area’s flora and fauna. You can also get tips and ideas about the World Heritage Site’s where, when and how plus numerous other things you shouldn’t miss when visiting the High Coast. //

A World Heritage Site isn’t created over night

MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN 2019

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DISCOVER

/ HÖGA KUSTEN

SOME HARDTOBEAT figures

ON THE HIGH COAST

The local delicacy fermented herring, appreciated by so many, was invented by chance in the 1500s when a shortage of salt prevented fishermen from conserving their herring in the traditional manner. Today, 956 000 cans of the fermented delicacy are produced annually.

There are countless hiking trails in the High Coast region; the longest and most well known is 130 km – the High Coast Trail. Read more about it and some of its sections on page 36 Today, the official permanent population of Ulvön is 49, but during the summer months almost 55 000 visitors make the trip to the island, which is also known as the jewel of the Baltic.

The High Coast region is full of peaks and valleys even under the water’s surface. The deepest point in the sea here is an impressive 194 metres deep, and can be found just east of Ulvön.

The land uplift since the ice age is the most dramatic in the world here. The area is currently a total of 800 metres higher today than it was during the last ice age. And it is still rising! Every year it gains 8mm, which is still the fastest uplift in the world.

Sweden’s highest island, jutting 236 metres out of the sea, is right here in the High Coast archipelago. It is called Mjältön and it has a beautiful natural harbour well worth a visit.

MORE OF EVERYTHING At hogakusten.com you can find out more about almost everything you might want to know about our beautiful High Coast. Everything from how to book accommodation or a boat trip out to the archipelago to where you can easily start a hike in Skuleskogen National Park.

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Treat yourself to a visit in a completely relaxing environment set in beautiful nature. UlvĂś hotel has modern, tastefully decorated rooms and an outdoor sauna.

The restaurant serves locally produced food and is featured in the White Guide. You are guaranteed to have a memorable visit here in the middle of the World Heritage Site’s fantastic archipelago.

A GENEROUS DONATION BECAME A FANTASTIC ART TREASURE – the High Coast Art Valley. A VALLEY THAT OFFERS BOTH STUNNING NATURE AND AMAZING ART. was a regional growth project back in 2013/2014. But the idea has its origins many years earlier with Jonas Nätterlund playing a central role. He was born in the village of Sidensjö in the 1920s but lived his entire adult life in Stockholm. Unknown to anyone, he was a skilful investor and when he died in 1995, he left SEK 24 million to the Nätra/Sidensjö region to purchase public artworks. This generous donation resulted in the Nätterlund Foundation being founded, and 25 vastly different pieces of art were purchased and placed along the valley. The project High Coast Art Valley aimed to connect these pieces together and develop the concept further.

The valley stretches from the Ulvö islands in the archipelago to the Nätraälven Valley and the pieces of art make for a fascinating cultural journey. Some are completely freestanding, others are part of schools, roads or cultural areas. The Art Valley’s hub is the art and nature park Herrgårdsparken in Köpmanholmen, a popular place to visit. This is where untouched nature and parklands meet and you will see both wildlife and evidence of the industrial era. A walk around the whole park takes about an hour and along the way you will find both benches for a rest and barbeque areas. // T H E H I G H C O A S T A R T VA L L E Y

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Leif Wikberg

Artcaching

DISCOVER

/ FLAVOURS

Our favourite s r ou v a l f A visit to the High Coast can be an unforgettable journey of culinary delights and delicious food experiences.

You can even go on an organised culinary tour of dedicated local producers that will allow all your senses to enjoy the region.

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DISCOVER

/ FLAVOURS

FERMENTED BALTIC HERRING U LV Ö H A M N

The annual High Coast highlight leaves no one untouched. The third Thursday in August, which is the 16th in 2018, is the date on every High Coast calendar that is as feared as it is looked forward to. This is when the annual fermented Baltic herring premier takes place. And where should all the world’s foodies and rapt fans of fermented herring head to if they want to experience “the real deal” – well it’s simple – they should hightail it directly to the island of Ulvön. This is where the locals take their signature dish very seriously. All the restaurants on the island serve up the ripe delicacy to their eager guests and the exclusive aroma of fermented herring wafts around, enveloping the entire village of Ulvöhamn in a soft aromatic cloud much to the joy and delight of visitors and residents alike. Well, to the joy and delight of those who take joy and delight in fermented herring that is.

Discover and learn more about all of the High Coast’s many flavours hogakusten.com/smaker

ULVÖ HOTELL

Ö R N S KÖ L D S V I K

The chefs at Ulvö hotel love local ingredients, preferably with a twist. Their food philosophy is modern with a focus on classically cooked dishes from Scandinavia, with an emphasis on local produce. The restaurant is a member in the White Guide and is well known for its Christmas smorgasbord, among other things.

They offer a number of wonderful experience packages, all with a focus on food. If you love exceptional eating experiences, for example, a gastro package could be something for you. We promise you will not be disappointed with your visit to Ulvö Hotell.

GÅRDSBUTIKEN

KRAMFORS

With Själandsklinten as a backdrop, flavoursome jams and marmalades, fruit drinks and preserves are created in Gårdsbutiken i Själand, Nordingrå. It is a family business that has just been taken over by the second generation and during the summer season they welcome visitors from all over. Enjoy the flavours of the High Coast in the form of onion relish, rhubarb jam and wild raspberry fruit drink. The restaurant offers locally produced, high quality fare and is fully licenced. In the garden café you can enjoy home-baked delights while surrounded by gorgeous geraniums.

VÅ R D E L AV VÄ R L D E N The cookbook Vår del av världen, Höga Kusten (Our Part of the World, the High Coast) is a prize-winning cookbook featuring the culinary best from the High Coast. New recipes and ingredients from the High Coast are intertwined with entertaining stories about the people who produce the ingredients that we can find here in the World Heritage Site.

It was nominated for the Svenska Designpriset and won gold at both the Swedish and World Cookbook Awards in 2018. It also won a Publishing Prize for Cookbook of the Year.

Read more at magasinhogakusten.com

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SWEDISH RUSKS E M M A’ S S K A F F E R I

Rusk bakery Emmas Skafferi can now be found in Ullånger at Mjälloms Flatbread Bakery. These handcrafted masterpieces are made with carefully selected ingredients and will give your tastebuds a fantastic treat thanks to their around 40 different flavours. You will find most of them in the bakery’s Factory Shop.

CHEESE

HÄGGBY GÅRD

At prize-winning Häggby Gård in Häggdånger, just over ten kilometres south of Härnösand, high-end cheeses are being produced. On the family farm, much appreciated cheeses such as Axelina, Julia, Byviken and Grönborg are made from organic, pasteurised milk sourced from the family’s very own herd of cows. Make sure you visit their farm shop so you can find your own favourite.

FLATBREAD

BEVERAGES

MJÄLLOMS TUNNBRÖD

H E R N Ö G I N & H I G H COA S T D I S T I L L E RY

The High Coast is proud to be home to Sweden’s oldest flatbread bakery – Mjälloms Tunnbröd was founded in 1923 by Rut Ullsten. Flatbread today is as much a delicacy as it is a traditional everyday bread, and baking it by hand is a true tradition in northern Sweden. Take the time in the summer to visit the baking cottage by the visitor’s centre to see how flatbread is made.

It smells fantastic. We promise.

Award-winning Hernö Gin and Box Whisky have been presented as producers of internationally renowned products that are as far away from typical beverages in Sweden, northern Sweden and Ångermanland as you can get. The fact is that the High Coast’s most successful ambassadors out in the world in recent years have been gin and whisky.

LINNÉA & PETER Ö R N S KÖ L D S V I K

After only a few years of business, Örnsköldsvik’s favourite restaurant took out first place in the famous White Guide as best restaurant in Västernorrland 2015/2016. Linnéa Lijedahl and Peter Eriksson have created a wonderful restaurant where they cook the food they love most, inspired by modern Nordic and European cuisine. You are just as welcome to have a beer and something to eat in the bar as you are to book a table and enjoy a delicious three-course meal with great wines. A piece of advice! Book the restaurant’s Chef’s Table.

SANKT PETRI LOGEN

HÄRNÖSAND

Sankt Petri Logen and à la carte restaurant Väggivägg in the same building offer high-class food and service for a reasonable price.

“We are passionate about making inspired, modern food with exciting accompanying beverages for both small and large groups,” says Jonatan Norberg who has run the restaurant since 2003. “Our goal is to make every meal and every occasion something to remember.” Jonatan also imports wine under the label: “Petri Sélection Parcellaire”.

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GUIDE TO

/ ALLEMANSRÄTTEN

SWEDEN HAS SOMETHING that is totally unique. THE SWEDISH COUNTRYSIDE IS OPEN TO EVERYONE AND YOU CAN ROAM AROUND AND VISIT ALMOST EVERYWHERE.

Everyone’s right to nature A L L E M A N S R Ä T T E N , is the Swedish term for the

Right of Public Access, also known as Freedom to Roam. It is an ancient Swedish custom that was incorporated into the Swedish Constitution in 1994. Many Swedes think of it as part of their cultural heritage and a national symbol for Sweden. In brief, the Right of Public Access means that you can roam almost anywhere you want in the countryside and you can pitch your tent, light a campfire, and pick flowers, berries and mushrooms.

But there are also rules that must be followed.

You are not allowed to walk over plantations or land that can easily be damaged. If you are in the forest, take care not to step on newly planted seedlings. on private roads, but you must also respect private residences by keeping away from houses and gardens. Take care of the surfaces you tread on, big boots can leave big footprints in soft ground. In the spring and autumn, trails are often soft and you might need to take it a little easy.

Can you believe that you are allowed to pitch your tent on private land? If you want to stay more

than a night or two make sure you ask the landowner for permission. And always choose your campsite well away from any houses.

The Right of Public Access gives you the opportunity to stay for longer and enjoy nature in peace and quiet. Flowers, berries and mushrooms are all okay to pick, but make sure you know which species are protected in the region you are visiting.

Remember that if you light a campfire, the best surfaces to put it on are sand or gravel. Avoid exposed rock and other vulnerable surfaces and make sure the fire can’t spread. Fires are often not permitted during the summer, so it’s a good idea to carry a camping stove with you. If you need wood for a campfire, go ahead and gather sticks and branches from the ground, but don’t break any off living trees and bushes.

Y O U M AY WA L K

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a national park or nature reserve, it’s a good idea to find out how the Right to Public Access is applied there. There can be limitations, and in some cases it can be even more generous. Examples of limitations are if dogs and campfires are not permitted or if camping is only allowed in certain areas. // I F YO U P L A N TO V I S I T

Family fun

GUIDE TO

/ KIDS ACTIVITIES

HIGHLIGHTS FOR

young explorers

AND ADVENTURERS

HORNÖBERGET

P L AYG R O U N D

Right by the Hotel Höga Kusten with views over the famous bridge Högakustenbron you’ll find a big playground with plenty of activities, including lots of water play. And it’s free to visit! Easily accessed toilets and the hotel right there with ice creams and refreshments, a restaurant and accommodation. A great, convenient location and we promise you the kids will love it.

JUNSELE DJURPARK

G R E AT DAY O U T

Come and see lynx, bears, wolves, camels and other interesting animals. Take the time to visit Junsele Zoo where perhaps the white tigers are the most popular attraction. You can stay here, eat well and make memories for life.

TÄRNÄTTHOLMARNA

RÖVARSTIGEN

On the eastern coast of Skuleskogen, a short hike from Näske, discover great swimming beaches, barbeque sites and cottages. A playful oasis in the national park.

Wonderful walking trail to the much talked about robbers’ cave on Skuleberget. An exciting place to take a break and admire the stunning views.

Starts at Naturrum Visitor Centre in Skule.

OUTDOOR LIFE

KÄLLARBACKENS SAGA OUTDOOR LIFE

On the eastern coast of Skuleskogen, a short hike from Näske, discover great swimming beaches, barbeque sites and cottages. A playful oasis in the national park.

SKALLBERGSGROTTORNA ADVENTURE

An exciting outing to one of Sweden’s longest cave systems. Easy to access, prepared with ladders and fun for everyone to explore. Cottages and lovely picnic spots.

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MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN 2019

OUTDOOR LIFE

GUIDE TO

/ INTERESTING PLACES phOTO

W Lingonberries, sometimes called cowberries, are a standard ingredient in Gårdbutiken’s products. Try homemade lingonberry juice – it’s delicious.

Håkan Nordström

wo r d s

Elin Holmberg

WHAT DO YOU SAY ABOUT A GUIDED TOUR IN A SWEDISH FLATBREAD BAKERY, AN EXCITING VISIT TO AN UNDERGROUND FORT OR A LUXURIOUS CUP OF COFFEE IN A BOTANICAL OASIS?

Experience a wide selection of cultural heritage sites and other interesting places to visit.

hy not start your visit to the World Heritage Site at the Naturum Visitor Centre located in the heart of the High Coast, at the foot of Skuleberget right next to the national park.

This will give you some insight into the history of the land uplift in the area and help you find all those special places that you don’t want to miss. For example, Ulvö Fishing Chapel – Norrland’s oldest wooden building. Many couples choose to get married in this historical building. The chapel is home to a lot of dramatic tales dating right back to 1622 when it was built.

Another historical place is Gammelgården in Myckelgensjö, one of Sweden’s best-preserved farms. Scenes from the film “Barnen från Frostmofjället” were recorded here. For those interested in travelling further back in time, Genesmon or Nämforsen’s Petroglyph Museum of rock carvings is well worth a visit. In Genesmon in Gene, there are traces of a settlement dating back to the Roman Iron Age. In Nämforsen there are about 2600 rock carvings preserved, some as old as 6000 years. The environment there is magical with its waterfalls, rivers and sandbanks. Not far away is Junsele Zoo, primarily known for its white tigers. It’s a great spot for both adults and children to enjoy the animals and stroll around for a few hours. They also have several accommodation options with a camping ground and cabins. The charming Gårdsbutiken farm shop is a given when visiting the High Coast. A family company that sells amazingly good food, home-produced prizewinning delicacies made from the High Coast’s best raw ingredients. They also sell homewares, gifts, plants and seedlings for your kitchen garden and are located in the middle of the Nordlingrå landscape. A little south, deep down in Storråberget on Hemsön, is one of the country’s best preserved defense secrets. Hemsö Fortress was in its turn a top secret underground fort and one of The Cold War’s largest defense facilities. Today, the fort is a tourist attraction for both adults and children who seek to get their feelings of excitement.But the High Coast isn’t only nature and culture, it is also food and beverages. Flatbread is something of a national dish, and this is where the country’s oldest flatbred bakery is located – Mjälloms Tunnbröd. You can learn how flatbread is made in their visitors centre. Villa Fraxinus is a beautiful show garden where you can spend some time relaxing surrounded by nature. The restaurant is in the garden, a gorgeous, botanical oasis. Did you know that whisky is made in Ångermanland? In the EXPERIENCE HÖGA KUSTEN old power station in Box right next to the river Ångermanälven, a fine single malt whisky has been You will find a wide range of things to see and places to visit made for several years now, and Dala outside Härhere. Art and culture are living side by side with historical places, nösand is home to Sweden’s only exclusive, and the family-friendly attractions and classic places to visit in the world’s northernmost, gin distillery. Hernö Gin fantastic High Coast environment. Discover even more places has won several prizes and offers study visits and to see and things to experience at hogakusten.com gin tastings for pre-booked groups. //

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MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN 2019

Mannaminne is an

impressive, colourful artist’s collection that defines description – you simply must go there and experience it.

Follow artist and collector Anders Åberg’s journey of art, museum exhibits, interesting houses, cars, boats and machines from all over the globe. There isn’t anything like it anywhere else in Sweden and a visit to the High Coast isn’t complete without spending a few hours here. You will also find the cosy boarding house Sestola with 15 rooms used for visitor accommodation.

HEMSÖ FÄSTNING

GÅRDSB

UTIKEN

GUIDE TILL

/ MUSEUMS EXPERIENCE A rich history OF MOTOR VEHICLES, FISHING, ART, AND THE DARK AGE OF WITCH HUNTS.

Museums VÄSTERNORRLANDS MUSEUM LOCAL HISTORY

Murberget in Härnösand consists of a modern museum with exhibitions, a shop and café plus an outdoor museum with houses and outdoor environments from the 1800s and 1900s.

“8000 years in an hour” is Muberget’s slogan for the permanent exhibitions.

RECREATIONAL CRAFTS

ULVÖ MUSEUM

Härnösand further strengthened its marine identity when the National Maritime Museum, the Vasa Museum and Marine Museum in Karlskrona moved their recreational craft collection and opened the National Recreational Crafts Museum on the High Coast in 2017.

Tanken med det nyöppnade Ulvö museum är att det ska ge besökaren en känsla för hur livet i fiskarsamhället fungerade för drygt 100 år sedan. Museet ligger efter Hamngatan och vid vattnet finns en nybyggt sjöbod och uppe vid vägen finns ett tidsenligt kokhus.

B OAT I N G

ÖRNSKÖLDSVIKS MUSEUM ART GALLERY LOCAL HISTORY

ÖLIV

The international exhibitions on Star Wars, Elvis Presley and Andy Warhol have had the highest profiles over the years but the many other exhibitions are well worth seeing too. Örnsköldsvik Museum and Art Gallery is a combined museum and art gallery located in central Örnsköldsvik. The 1904 Art Nouveau building was originally an old school house. The museum has a café and shop that sells local literature, gifts, toys and prints. It also sells items made by blacksmiths Bert Hagström and Tove Samuelsson.

HÄRNÖSANDS VETERAN CAR MUSEUM MOTORS

With its 140 cars and numerous motorcycles, a café and loads of motor nostalgia, the veteran car museum in central Härnösand is one of Sweden’s biggest. The museum’s slogan is “Cars you have forgotten to remember – Cars you would rather forget.”

THE WITCHES MUSEUM IN PRÄSTMON LOCAL HISTORY

“The beliefs of the time affect the people” is the name of the exhibition about the witch trials in Torsåker in 1675. Visitors to the exhibition experience this dark piece of history that is still relevant today through digital and interactive technology and traditional artistic expression.

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MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN 2019

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SOMETIMES YOU CAN’T DRIVE ALL THE WAY THERE.

Sometimes getting there requires a little more effort.

BUT ONCE YOU GET THERE, THE REWARDS ARE SO MUCH BIGGER.

ärnättvattnet is one of these places.

You can hike here from several directions. Via the mysterious and impressive canyon Slåttdalsskrevan, from the north from Näske, which is probably the easiest route, or via the steep trail up from the sea. Regardless of which trail you take, an oasis in the middle of the national park awaits you where the water is soft and clean and perfect for swimming or just admiring. If you want to stay the night, there is a cottage here with bunks, beautifully located right by the water.

M O R E N AT U R E For more places to visit, pull out your map and look up Balesudden and Multrüberget – both of them have spellbinding views. And StorÜn, whose geology and history make it a fascinating place to visit. It takes a little more effort to get there, but is well worth it. More magical places, far from parking lots, can be found at hogakusten.com

DISCOVER

/ RELAXATION

T

Enjoy the good life P H O T O Håkan Nordström W O R D S Elin Holmberg

reat your senses to lovely warmth, delicious aromas, calming music and beautifully cooked food.

There are two absolute musts in the High Coast region for spaloving visitors. Paradiset in Örnsköldsvik and Hallsta Spa & Relax in Sollefteå make it easy to kill a few hours focusing on nothing more than just being in the moment. Örnsköldsvik has a slice of paradise right in the middle of town – a place where you leave the stress of everyday life behind. The soothing, calmly lit environment offers Aufguss sessions, a range of different baths and showers, spa pools, saltarium, a salt cave and other restorative treatments. You will also find Sweden’s largest wooden sauna, and visitors to the spa can read or doze to relaxing music in comfortable chaise lounges.

Last year, Paradiset made some changes, primarily in the restaurant, which now has an even bigger focus on healthy living. Shelving was installed with 134 small biospheres in glass bowels, each its own eco system. The menu’s ingredients have a large focus on greens, and the customer decides what he or she would like to accompany them with.

“The idea is for our guests to recharge their energy reserves and take a real break from their everyday lives. My best tip would be to visit the spa on a weekday when it is quieter,” says David Berglund, Paradisbadet’s director. They have plans to convert the lower storey to include a cryotherapy chamber, treatment room, lounge furniture and an area for yoga, meditation and health talks.

The Hotell Hallstaberget in Sollefteå is home to Hallsta Sky Spa & Relax perfect for all sauna lovers. In their sauna world you will find no less than five saunas: An aroma sauna, light therapy sauna, dry sauna, Finnish sauna and a steam sauna. Once you have tried them all you can take a dip in the icy plunge pool. In the middle of the premises there is a large heated swimming pool and spa pools. Spa treatments are also on offer.

Hotell Hallstaberget has different packages for different seasons – why not spice up life a little by combining a spa visit with skiing in the winter or golf in the summer? //

U P P TÄC K ÄV E N . . .

Norrfällsviken, where you can look out over the open sea from their sauna and hot tub which are directly on the beach. Closer to the sea than in the Lotsstugan sauna on the anchored raft is difficult to come by. Here you get a lovely sauna experience with the dip in the sea just a sauna door away. When the south winds of wine in the autumn and you have taken you down to the sauna on the pebble beach below Högbondens lighthouse, you will know that you live. Awesome cool, awesome hot, cruel game. And incredibly beautiful.

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Katarina Norstrรถm

The idea is for our guests to recharge their energy reserves and take a real break from their everyday lives.

DISCOVER

T

/ HIKING

phOTO

Peder Sundstrรถm

wo r d s

Steven Ekholm

T

he popularity of hiking is steadily increasing in Sweden and it is nothing short of a hot trend right now. It can’t be called a new trend, though, because for a long time, hiking in the forests and mountains has been as close as you can get to a national movement in this country. Today’s modern hikers have slightly different priorities from their parents and grandparents, even if nature is still a main focus. More people are interested in taking active holidays, and they are more focused on being healthy and climate smart and spending time with their families.

And 30-kilo backpacks filled with tents and awful freeze-dried meals are definitely a thing of the past. Modern hiking has become more lightweight, less macho and a lot more fun.

the High Coast unique is its rich topographical variation and its high coastal mountains. You can find both fantastic short hikes that still offer world-class experiences; for example the Höga Kustenstigen trail up to the top of Skuleberget, the many other mountain tops with great viewpoints and the hiking out on the islands in the archipelago, just to name a few. There are also long lineal hiking trails such as the High Coast Trail, Nipleden Trail and Lotsstigen Trail, and also loop trails that take a few days such as the World Heritage Trail and the Arnäsleden Trail. Many of the best places to visit on the High Coast, including Skuleskogen National Park are enjoyed by the majority of visitors on day hikes, even if the experience is only intensified with a night in your tent or in one of the many cabins or wind shelters that can be used for sleeping in.

W H AT M A K E S

Modern hiking has become more lightweight, less macho and a lot more fun. is an Eldorado for all kinds of hikers. Tourist revenue is increasing every year and the largest group of visitors, many of whom are not from Sweden, are coming here primarily to get a fix for their hiking addictions. The choices are endless and there are excellent visitor centres where both experienced and new hikers can get help with planning their holiday – the outdoor village Friluftsbyn and the Naturum Visitor Centre are two excellent hiking hubs.

T H E H I G H C OA ST

to the weather is a great rule to live by. Some of the trails can be wet, and a good pair of stable, watertight boots will quickly become your best friends.

Make sure you have really good food with you too that can be prepared when you are outdoors. Because this is what more and more people are discovering about hiking and outdoor life, it is all about enjoying yourself.

Don’t ever forget that! // D R E S S AC C O R D I N G

T R A I L S T H AT W I L L M A K E YO U R DAY In his guidebook on hiking the High Coast (Calazo), author Steven Ekholm writes the following about his three favourite places and perfect modern day hikes. Valkallen – The view from here defines what the High Coast Trail is all about. Waiting for the sunrise up here on a light summer’s night will give you one of the trail’s most memorable experiences. Slåttdalsskrevan – the most visited geological place on the High Coast is also the most impressive. Despite its impressive depth, it is still one of Skuleskogen National Park’s highest points. Lake Balestjärn – a real gem. The lake bed is an ancient sea bed and it is believed that this is what makes the water so uniquely clear that divers have been known to make the effort of carrying all their equipment up here. But just a mask and snorkel will be enough to give you a feeling of vertigo! Don’t miss the trails Gulaleden, Geologistigen, Ulviksleden, Nipleden or Stenbergsleden either. Read more on hogakusten.com

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DISCOVER

/ HIKING

SECTION 4 G AV I K - L A P P U D D E N

Easily hiked terrain with a side track to the hill fort Rödklitten. Pleasant hiking along beautiful forest trails.

On arrival in Lappudden you are met by a beautiful environment with a

Ö R N S KÖ L D S V I K

SECTION 8 SKULEBERGET - KÄL

Unbeatable views from the top of Skuleberget. A gorgeous stretch with a 5km side trail to Bergsbodarna. Once you arrive in Käl, there are benches, a table and a swimming spot perfect on warm days.

Experience the best of the High Coast from front row seats. The High Coast Trail is a magnificent hike divided into 13 sections and is one of the

SECTION 11 KÖ P M A N H O L M E N - S A N D L ÅG A N

The trail’s last section that includes six kilometres walking right through Balesudden’s beautiful nature reserve.

A hut in good condition perfect for overnighting in Bodviken.

HÄRNÖSAND

High Coast trail

best coastal hiking trails in northern Europe. Enjoy the

sweeping views and lovely swimming spots. 128 km await you – or just choose the sections that appeal to you the most, or the side trails along the way.

Like a modern hiker. We will help you make one of Sweden’s longest hikes accessible, even for day trips.

SECTION 1 9,8 km ••• Hornöberget – Lövvik SECTION 2 9,6 km •• Lövvik – Fjärdbotten SECTION 3 12,8 km ••• Fjärdbotten – Gavik SECTION 4 11,5 km • Gavik – Lappudden SECTION 5 15,0 km ••• Lappudden – Ullånger SECTION 6 10,5 km •• Ullånger – Skoved SECTION 7 6,8 km • Skoved – Skuleberget SECTION 8 9,2 km •• Skuleberget – Käl SECTION 9 8,6 km ••• Käl – Näske SECTION 10 6,0 km • Näske – Köpmanholmen SECTION 11 12,7 km • Köpmanh. – Sandlågan SECTION 12 1,6 km •• Sandlågan – Svedje SECTION 13 4,0 km • Svedje – Örnsköldsvik

On hogakusten.com you will find more information on all the sections along the High Coast Trail.

• Easy hiking •• Intermediate hiking ••• Advanced hiking

ERLEBEN SIE DIE GESCHICHTE VÄSTERNORRLANDS IN HÄRNÖSAND Fri entré www.vnmuseum.se Härnösand. Öppet alla dagar 11-17 Kvällsöppet torsdagar till 20 Butik & kafé, tfn 0611-886 00

Once you arrive in Käl, there are benches, a table and a swimming spot perfect on warm days.

MURBERGET

FRILUFTSMUSEUM

BJÖRNVIKEN

GUIDE T0

T RYS U N DA

/ BEACHES

You won’t get any closer to paradise at this latitude. Björnviken on the island of Trysunda is the Bondi Beach of the High Coast. Perfect for families and groups of friends with a boat. Easily accessible via the shallow sandy beach. Just point the boat in towards land. If you don’t have your own boat, you can use the public ferry system – M/ F Ulvön will get you here from Köpmanholmen.

BEACH GUIDE

FAMILIES, BOATIES, SUN WORSHIPPERS OR WATER BABIES.

Find your own favourite spot

PERFECT FOR YOU THIS SUMMER. MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN 2019

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GUIDE T0

/ BEACHES

STORSAND

NORRFÄLLSVIKEN

Storsand is a shallow bay with a lovely sandy beach, soft sand dunes and tall pine trees. A family favourite. Jump high and land soft in the sand dunes, climb about on the roots of the huge pines and perform tricks from the grassy islands that form along the beach. A playful, yet peaceful beach. Accessible by road from Norrfällsviken, past the golf course.

SALUSAND HUSUM

The northernmost sea beach on the High Coast.

Only a stone’s throw from the E4 highway, just north of Husum. A delightful sandy beach and probably Sweden’s northernmost surfer’s paradise in the spring and autumn.

FJÄLLUDDEN

Ö R N S KÖ L D S V I K

Perfect for the outdoor family that likes swimming and barbequing. You might even take a sauna in the evening as you wait for dinner. Jetties, cliffs, sauna, cabin and barbeque area just by the waterway into the inlet Bäckfjärden. A wonderful place that can be accessed by bike, car or boat.

SMITINGEN HÄRNÖSAND

One of the absolutely best beaches in northern Sweden. Beach volleyball, a kiosk and a great atmosphere. Perfect for those who don’t like sand and cold water. The water temperature can be really warm in the summer, so make the trip there to try it out. Take your car 10-15 minutes along the roads Gånsviksvägen/Sandvägen from Härnösand.

GULLVIK

Ö R N S KÖ L D S V I K

A favourite place for campers in the northern part of the High Coast. Long, lovely sandy beach, beach volleyball, beach football and minigolf. Perfect for an active bunch of friends and sun worshippers alike. Fully licenced beach restaurant.

HÖVENBADET RESELE

Lovely swimming spot in idyllic Resele. Small playground, wind shelter with barbeque, changing room, toilets, outside showers and a little lawn perfect for games.

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ROTS I DA N

SMITING

EN

ROTSIDAN NORDINGRÅ

This fantastic, kilometre-long slickrock beach just has to be experienced. Perfect for sun worshippers and photographers. Turn right at the ice hall in Nordingrå towards Barsta/Bönhamn and keep a lookout for the signpost marking a small forestry road.

Follow it for several kilometres until you get to a car park.

From there, you can easily walk to the water even with prams and wheelchairs.

LESS SAND If you prefer heated pools to lakes and the seaside, there are plenty of outdoor pools to choose between in the High Coast – everything from entire complexes with various pools, slides and picnic areas for games to small, cosy spots. Ramsele camping has a large pool beautifully positioned below the impressive riverbanks.

A bit outside Junsele is a pool only a stone’s throw away from the zoo. Risöbadet in Sollefteå has a paddling pool and two large pools where you can swim with your friends. In Mellansel outside Örnsköldsvik you will find a popular swimming complex with several pools and slides. Solbacken is a lovely outdoor pool at Dekarsön in Örnsköldsvik. On Ulvön you will find a newly renovated pool in the harbour by the hotel and in Norrfällsviken kids love to visit the pool at the camping ground. One of the larger heated outdoor pools in the area is Flogstabadet, a few kilometres from Kramfors. It has several pools, minigolf, a water slide and large lawns for playing.

GUIDE TO

/ BEST BEDROOM VIEWS

A room with a view WAKE UP TO THE HIGH COAST’S most spectacular views OUTSIDE YOUR BEDROOM WINDOW.

ELITE PLAZA HOTEL

HOTELL H A L L S TA B E R G E T

U LV Ö H OT E L L

ULVÖ HOTELL

T H E J E W E L O F T H E B A LT I C

If you are looking for a hotel with a view, and want to stay right by the water, then Ulvö Hotell is the place for you. It is a high-quality establishment with a fantastic restaurant run by chef Tobias Andersson, who loves to exceed his guests’ expectations time and again. This season brings you a newly renovated restaurant, an even better stocked wine cellar and a wonderful new hotel spa. You won’t find anything better on the entire Baltic.

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LOTSSTUGAN

C O S Y, R I G H T B Y T H E S E A

Lotsstugan is the old harbour pilot’s house that has been converted into holiday accommodation and a restaurant with a fantastic sea view. Sauna, spa and hot tubs with breathtaking views.

HOTELL HÖGA KUSTEN

BY THE BRIDGE

Hotell Höga Kusten is beautifully positioned on the northern side of the impressive bridge Högakustenbron.

The restaurant has enormous panoramic windows with a magical view over the bridge and Ångermanälven river.

HÖGBONDEN

HISTORIC AND UNIQUE

Unique accommodation in the old lighthouse keeper’s house, with an atmosphere full of serenity and calm, set high above the Baltic Sea’s thundering waves. Hard to find somewhere to stay closer to nature than this. Set in a beautiful and exciting nature reserve.

HOTELL HÖGA KUSTEN

HÖGBONDEN

ELITE PLAZA HOTEL MODERN AND CENTRAL

Elite Plaza Hotel on the inner harbour of Örnsköldsvik has modern rooms, a spa with gym and sauna and amazing views over the surrounding area. The Bishop’s Arms pub is located inside the hotel and during the summer it has fantastic outdoor seating, right by the water.

HOTELL HALLSTABERGET S PA H OT E L W I T H U N B E ATA B L E

Newly renovated spa hotel with a pool and sauna world. À la carte restaurant and rooms/ suites with dramatic views over Sollefteå and the Ångermanälven river valley.

LOTSSTUGAN

MORE ACCO M M O DAT I O N ...for those who like to bring your own room along, and want the best views, head for one of these caravan or campervan sites along the High Coast where you can open your doors and enjoy incredible views: Friluftsbyn Snibbens camping Skulebergets havscamping Norrfällsvikens camping Sollefteå camping Gullviks havsbad More accommodation options can be found at hogakusten.com

TALL TALES & MYTHS wo r d s

Elin Holmberg

THE LARGEST GIANT IN THE HIGH COAST REGION LIVED IN BÖNHAMN – his bottom HAS LEFT A LASTING IMPRESSION IN THE CLIFFS THERE. in a rage is now the island of Högbonden. What the giant didn’t know was that this island was going to be the location of a lighthouse.

And after that a place popular among tourists.

There are countless places along the High Coast with mythical tales attached to them. The tales of the robbers in Skuleskogen are probably the most well known.

THE STONE HE ONCE THREW

Bönhamn and Skeppsmaln.

They are some of the many places enshrouded by myths along the High Coast. Not to mention Skuleberget.

“The most classic of all the myths in the region is about the robbers in Skuleskogen. Skuleberget has always been seen as a magical place,” says author Bo R Holmberg, who has lived his whole life in Ångermanland.

He remembers how before the E4 highway was built, the main road went right by the mountain and as a child he could look out at it as they drove by.

“A myth is always connected to a place, and quite often to a named person as well,” he explains.

“The place and the person make a myth feasibly possible, but you can never be sure if it is true or not. One example is a record from the 1600s that depicts a boy in Härnösand running away from school so he could join the band of robbers. It is the only drawing in existence about ULLÅNGER, NORDINGRÅ,

the robbers that lived in the forest and cave on the mountain,” says Holmberg.

And the cave is a real place frequently visited today, but whether or not robbers lived in it, no one knows for sure.

“It isn’t very big so they couldn’t have lived there permanently, but it might have been a place they hid in or stored stolen goods in.”

There are also stories about giants in the High Coast.

The island of Högbonden, for example, is said to be a stone that a giant threw in a rage one day. folklore researchers in Ångermanland are Ella Odstedt and Levi Johansson. Ella Odstedt wrote several articles and texts in the 1930s and 1940s and her notes were published by folklore researcher Bengt af Klintberg in “Norrlänsk folktradition”.

You can read Levi Johansson’s records on folklore in the region in a database at Västernorrland Museum.

Bo R Holmberg is an expert on “vittror” – magical creatures that live underground who both fascinated and scared people far into the 1800s.

“The live in groups, much like humans do. They are small, about 50cm tall, and you must be careful not to anger them. If you do upset them, they can punish you for the rest of your life.” // T H E M O S T FA M O U S

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a

a tA the robbers of skuleberget waited by the road at the bottom of the mountain and demanded travellers paid them to pass. They also roved the area on robbing missions.

But the farmers in the village of Berg were never bothered by them until one day when the robbers started to steal their sheep. To keep them safe, the farmers rowed them out to the island of Mjältön.

In the village there was an outcast who had moved there. He went up to the robbers’ cave on the mountain and said he wanted to join them – and to prove he was genuine he offered to take the robbers to where the farmers had hidden their sheep.

The robbers followed him down to the sea, but on the way there the man pretended he had hurt his foot so when they reached the island he didn’t accompany them on their sheep hunt.

This was his chance! He destroyed one of the boats and took all the robbers’ weapons and the other boat and rowed back to the mainland and the farmers.

The robbers were now stranded on Mjältön, without any weapons.

The farmers went over, armed to the teeth. They drove the robbers up over the island towards the high cliffs that plunged into the sea. The robbers had no way of defending themselves and, to avoid capture, they jumped to their deaths.

It is thought that all the robbers were killed, as from that day onwards they were never seen or heard from again. But their gold is still there. When it has rained for three days in a row, you can still today see it shining on Skuleberget.

What became of the outcast is unknown. Is it possible that he won over the farmers and was accepted into their village as one of them?

in Nora once built new stables, but his horses did not want to spend any time in there. Some mornings he found them outside and sometimes he found them with their manes beautifully plaited. They whinnied loudly and stamped their hooves. Then one year on Christmas Eve, when the family was sitting around the table, there was a knock on the door. There was a tiny man in a grey robe standing there. The farmer understood that the man was a magical creature and was frightened. He knew that steel protects against them, so he took hold of his axe.

“Can you come with me to my house?” asked the man.

The farmer went with him, but he took his axe. They came to his house FA R M E R I N A V I L L AG E

T SKULE,

called giants have no problems straddling rivers and streams. They have strange and wonderful names such as Kettil of Böle, Hålan of Åkarn, Resel of Rödsle, Hammar of Hälle, Klinger of Skalle and Spjell of Bäck.

The evidence of their existence that they have left in their wake is primarily a trail of stones – huge ones of course, often the size of barns.

The giants were in the habit of falling out with each other, which led to them throwing stones at each other while yelling at ear-splitting volumes. They also threw stones at newly built churches, as the church H E M A S S I V E C R E AT U R E S

Their gold is still there. When it has rained for three days in a row, you can still today see it shining on Skuleberget. bells irritated them. Luckily they always missed. But the stones are still where they landed.

The largest of the Ångermanland giants once lived in Bönhamn. You can still see the impression his bottom left in the rock there. And he didn’t throw just regular stones. No, one of the stones he threw became the island of Högbonden. Maybe there was someone out at sea who upset him. Understandably, the stone didn’t go far.

What the giant didn’t know was that the island would one day be home to a lighthouse and a lighthouse keeper, and even further into the future it would become a popular place for tourists to visit.

that was underground. His entire family was there and there was a full Christmas feast on the table. The man invited the farmer to join him and his family for dinner. But the farmer hadn’t even started to eat before he saw that something was dripping from the ceiling – so he jumped up.

“Who is peeing on our food?” he asked. “Now you can see what your horses do,” said the man. ”If you move your stables, your horses will be happier, so you will be too. And I will be happier as well.”

The farmer had built his stables right on top of the tiny man’s home.

So he pulled down his stables and rebuilt them ten metres away. And the horses were much happier.

LIST

/ INSTAGRAM

ON THE HIGH COAST, 13 IS NOT AN UNLUCKY NUMBER. CURIOUS, PRETTY OR USEFUL? HERE IS OUR OWN BUCKET LIST OF THE HIGH COAST’S thirteen places YOU CAN’T MISS IF YOU WANT TO GIVE YOUR INSTA ACCOUNT A LIFT. (FOR MAXIMUM LIKES, JUST HASHTAG #högakusten)

Scroll down for more

NÄMFORSEN

#NÄMFORSEN

#THEWITCHES MUSEUM

River, sandbanks, waterfall – the nature here is crazy and dramatic! And smack bang in the middle of it all is Europe’s biggest collection of petroglyphs.

An exhibition depicting the witch hunts and executions of the women who were accused of being witches in the 1600s.

63.4384, 16.8912

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SOLLEFTEÅ

N I P S TA D S F I S K E T

THE WITCHES MUSEUM

#NIPSTADS FISKET

#HÖGAKUSTEN BRON

Happy is the angler who manages to book one of the attractive fishing spots along the river Ångermanälven.

What can beat fishing for salmon on a long summer’s night?

Is it the Golden Gate Bridge? No, it is one of Sweden’s biggest and most beautiful suspension bridges, and a symbol for the region.

#TRYSUNDA

#SKULEBERGET

The archipelago’s most beautiful island, with obvious signs of land uplift. The island’s highest point on Kapellberget is definitely worth a visit.

Waffles and ice-cream taste best when eaten on top of a mountain.

Especially after walking or climbing to the top.

6 3 .1 74 3 , 1 7. 2 9 6 5

6 3 .1 3 8 5 , 1 8 . 7 9 4 7

KRAMFORS

6 2 . 8 5 2 6 , 1 7. 8 8 2 3

6 3 . 074 4 , 1 8 . 3 5 3 1

#ULVÖHOTELL

#MANNAMINNE

Everyday luxury in a beautiful relaxing environment. The restaurant serves locally produced food and is named in the White Guide.

A collection of art that has to be seen to be believed! Take a walk in Anders Åberg’s footsteps among all the exhibits and buildings.

63.0223, 18.65676

62.9111, 18.3027

E4

4

LIST

/ INSTAGRAM

Ö R N S KÖ L D S V I K

#HERRGÅRDS PARKEN 6 3 .1 7 3 3 , 1 8 . 5 7 1 1

Three experiences in one: nature, art and history. Herrgårdsparken is the hub of the High Coast Art Valley.

H E R R G Å R D S PA R K E N

SKEPPSMALN

T RYS U N DA

S K U L E S KO G E N S N AT I O N A L PA R K SKULEBERGET

U LV Ö H OT E L L

E4

#SKULESKOGENS NATIONALPARK

MANNAMINNE

6 3 .1 0 9 1 , 1 8 . 5 0 0 9

Skuleskogen National Park ties together mountains, forest and coast – a nature experience that is hard to beat.

And robbers haven’t been seen in the cave for a few centuries…

ROTS I DA N

HÖGAKUSTENBRON

HÄRNÖSAND

SMITINGEN

#SKEPPSMALN

#ROTSIDAN

#SMITINGEN

6 3 .1 6 4 6 , 1 8 . 9 6 1 7

62.8454, 18.3784

62.6011, 18.0348

The start or the end of the High Coast. Home of the world’s only fermented herring museum, Skagsudde’s lighthouse and beautiful slick rock shores.

The sea has been polishing the coastline here for thousands of years.

The World Heritage Trail goes to the nature reserve from Barsta and Fällsvikshamn.

Like a beach in Greece, but in Härnösand. Smitingen is all about sun, warmth and exploring caves, sea stacks and cobble fields.

ARE YOU FASCINATED BY NATURAL ARCHITECTURE? THEN THE HIGH COAST IS THE PLACE FOR YOU.

Architecturally designed wooden wind shelters GIVE YOU ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE OF THE WORLD HERITAGE SITE AND ARE WAITING FOR YOU

Take shelter

meet everywhere. But how can their interplay create inviting environments that promote both wellbeing and sustainability?

This is the question that Arknat, the Scandinavian Architectural Festival, poses. It was founded in 2017 and it was the first time anything like it had been seen in the High Coast.

Architecture students from all over Scandinavia got together for a few weeks in the summer and stayed at FriluftsByn right at the heart of the High Coast.

Up on Kulberget, close to the famous bridge Högakustenbron, ‘Over the Edge’ was built, a viewing platform offering a sweeping panorama over the Norafjärden inlet. In Hålviken you will find the artificial forest ‘Motte’. On the south side of Skuleberget along the High Coast trail, ‘Forest Cradle’ was built, a 20m2 platform hanging from the N AT U R E A N D A R C H I T E C T U R E

Körning

THE TREE CUBE

62.9353, 18.2706

Näske

KOMPONERAR

6 3 .1 5 3 2 , 1 8 . 5 1 3 2

Åsberget

A-MAZE-THING

63.3022, 18.6573

Skuleberget

FOREST CRADLE

63.0652, 18.3419

Kulberget

OVER THE EDGE

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Hålviken MOTTE

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48

trees, perfect for taking a break while listening to the sound of the wind in the treetops.

“Wind shelters are so much more than wind shelters, they add to the experience of being outdoors and trigger your senses,” says Martin Björklund, project leader for Arknat.

In the summer of 2018 it was time again. In Körning, Nordingrå, ‘The Tree Cube’ was built, a tree hut with windows that frame the lake, forest and sunset. In Näske you will find ‘Komponerar’ that is inspired by the old sawmill that was closed at the end of the 1970s. And in Örnsköldsvik along the hiking trail Gulaleden you will come across ‘A maze thing’, which has a great variation of views depending on where in the wind shelter you stand.

Why not spend a whole day visiting these six gems? Guaranteed to be an experience for all your senses. //

Foto: Pelle Kronestedt

Farm shop on the High Coast

The rock carvings at Nämforsen

A unique boat trip and hike

Out of the Sea rose the mountain

Coastal boat trip & hike along the High Coast, a World Heritage Site.

June 24-28, August 19-23 & 26-30 Breathtaking hikes and boat trips encompassing three very special islands and a national park. Comfortable accommodation, tasty food, and luggage transport!

See our website for more details. Call and book!

At naturum Höga Kusten, by the foot of Skuleberget, you can enjoy the exhibitions about the High Coast World heritage site and Skuleskogens National Park. Let naturum inspire you to discover the treasures of the High Coast.

Welcome in!

Sweden’s largest and most beautiful rock carving site. Exhibitions • Shop • Café • Free admission The museum is open from 10:30–17, Jun 15–Aug 15; free guided tours of the petroglyphs at 12:00 & 14:30 (closed Mondays & Midsummer) • The rock carving site is always open. Nipvägen 7, Näsåker.

+46 613 204 24 www.gardsbutiken.net info@gardsbutiken.net

+46 622 106 30 www.namforsen.com info@namforsen.com

+ 46 70 33 99 914 www.hogakustenwalkabout.se hkwalkabout@gmail.com

+46 613 700 200 www.naturumhogakusten.se info@naturumhogakusten.se

A summer favorite!

The farm shop is a popular destination. Our restaurant has been recommended by the White Guide for the sixth year running.

Our farm shop sells artisan food and much more. Everything in the coffee shop is made on the farm.

Exhibitions Guided Tours Program Café

Sollefteå

Sollefteå Camping Risön Sollefteå Camping Women died, Risön men condemned Sollefteå camping vid Ångermanälvens strand med gångavstånd till centrum.

The Witch Museum tells the story Ångermanälven Barnvänlig campingAt med mycket aktiviteter: Beach, within Pooler GoCart Klättring BMX-banaofTennis the brief but intense period walkingKanot/kajak distance Hoppborg from the Minibilar city of witch hysteria known as “the center.

På området finns även Camping Cupolens bar och restaurang med fullständiga rättigheter och en uteservering med fantastisk utsikt.

Great Uproar,” which lasted from A kid-friendly campground with

Cupolen, a fully licensed bar and restaurant.

1668-1676. A total of 71 people were beheaded and burned on Häxberget (“Witch Mountain”) in Torsåker Parish, in Kramfors Municipality.

Open all year round.

Refreshments available.

+46 620 100 21 www.solleftea-camping.se solleftea.camping@telia.com

+46 612 856 01 www.haxmuseet.se info@hola.se

a wealth of fun activities: • Swimming pools • Go-carts • Canoes/Kayaks • Bouncy castle • Climbing • Mini cars • Tennis 0620-68 25 42 • Golf • QuickStop • BMX course www.solleftea-camping.se solleftea.camping@telia.com

Music and Culture festival Traditional and contemporary music Workshops | Poetry | Ecological food Seminars | Nature camping A festival in the forest for the whole family!

Atop one of the steep hills surrounding the river Ångermanälven is where you find the festival site – located in the scenic village of Näsåker by the great rapid Nämforsen.

+46 622 107 89 www.urkult.se kontoret@urkult.se

The Golden Season AUTUMN IS THE HUNTING SEASON IN THE HIGH COAST. AND WE don’t only hunt moose AND BEARS, BUT ALSO BERRIES AND MUSHROOMS! THERE IS ENDLESS TREASURE TO BE FOUND IF YOU JUST LOOK FOR IT. AND WHILE YOU’RE OUT THERE, MAKE THE MOST OF THE COLOURS AND CRISP, CLEAN AIR PHOTOS

Håkan Nordström

WO R D S

Elin Holmberg

DISCOVER

T

/ AUTUMN

he High Coast is a popular place in the summer and winter. But the autumns are also worth a visit– the colours and the crisp clean air are reason enough. The weather is cooler, which makes for pleasant hiking. We are experts on campfires here and you won’t have to go far before you find a campfire site in the forest. When the night falls and the air is cooler, nothing is better than gathering around a campfire listening to it crackle and burn. There are countless hiking trails in the area and popular trails include the High Coast Trail and the World Heritage Trail. When you are hiking, you will notice the amazing colours. Many would say that the High Coast is at its most beautiful in the autumn. If you have some luck, you will also come across mushrooms and berries as you walk.

Of the 10,000 mushroom species found in Scandinavia, only 100 are edible. So make sure you know what you are doing when you gather mushrooms.

Chanterelle are seen as a safe bet by many. Their colour and smell are easily recognised. Even other mushrooms are easily recognised, if you know what you are looking for. Local delicacies “Fårticka”, “lammticka” and “brödticka” are worth getting to know, they are white and brownish grey and grow in groups.

Karl Johan mushrooms are also popular and grow well after warm, dry summers.

DISCOVER

/ AUTUMN

You have to use your senses, feel them and smell them.

Ann Christine Strömberg Holmlund is a mushroom expert in Västernorrland and holds regular mushrooming courses.

“It is a good idea to join a study circle if you are new to mushrooming. Or join a mushrooming club,” she advises.

She thinks that you should look for more than just chantarelles, keep your eyes open

for other sorts of mushroom as well.

“It is more fun and your basket gets fuller too. For example, funnel chanterelles and yellow foot mushrooms are also worth learning to recognise. You need to put on your “mushrooming glasses” to be able to see what you are looking for. Mushrooming involves a lot of walking, looking around and taking notes. You have to use your senses, feel them and smell them. This is how you can build up knowledge that can be useful the next time you are out as well. The forests along the High Coast are often rich in raspberries, lingonberries (cowberries), blueberries and cloudberries as well.

The Nilsson family, who run Gårdsbutiken at the foot of Själandsklinten, are known

M A K E S U R E YO U A L S O D I S C O V E R … ...autumn fishing in the High Coast. If you are interested in fishing, then you have most likely heard of Nipstadsfisket in Sollefteå. “Salmon fishing in the middle of town” as it is called, started in the early 1970s and is widely talked about today. When the salmon start running, anglers are standing waiting with their rods at the ready. But the High Coast has so much more fishing.

S A L M O N – Salmon are most easily

caught by spin fishing, and trolling with spoon bait, wobblers and flies. In the autumn, spin fishing with wobblers and spin flies is best. Your have a chance of getting a good salmon in the Ångermanälven river along the 10-km stretch downstream from the power station in Sollefteå.

S E A T R O U T – You can fish for sea

trout all year round, but the conditions are best from September until the water freezes over. Sea trout come further into the archipelago the colder the water gets in the autumn. Cast fishing is best using spoon bait, jiggers, wobblers or tube flies.

52

P I K E – Use large spoon lures and

P E R C H – Perch are our most com-

wobblers for the best chance of catching a pike. The best time of year to fish for pike is during the spring and autumn, and the biting time is all day. Pike are fished in lakes and running water, plus in the shallower inlets along the coast.

mon and popular sport fish. The best way to catch a perch is with a float, hook and worm. Perch can be found in most lakes and running water, plus in the shallower inlets along the coast.

THE BEST FINDS KARLJOHAN

Grow in pine and leafy forests, as well as mixed forests, all over Sweden. The cap is light to dark brown. The under surface of the cap has grey/white tubes in younger examples but they become more yellow or greenish yellow in fullygrown mushrooms. Karl Johan mushrooms grow well after warm summers, and they can grow very fast. They often grow in several “surges” in a season. Can be mistaken for, for example, a reddish brown mushroom called rödbrun stensopp in Swedish, which is also a very good eating mushroom.

CHANTERELLE

Grow in pine and leafy forests, as well as mixed forests, all over Sweden. The entire mushroom is egg-yolk yellow. The top of the cap is smooth, and often wavy. The under surface of the cap has gills that run down the stem. The mushroom’s flesh is pale yellow. It can be found from June/July until late autumn.

BLACK CHANTERELLE

Often found among oaks and hazelnut trees, but also in pine forests. The top of the cap is black and has small scales. The cap’s underside is somewhat wrinkly and grey/blue-grey in colour. The stem is hollow and the lower part is black. Can be mixed up with several inedible mushrooms so be careful.

for sourcing a lot of their ingredients in the forest.

Their shop and restaurant are closed in the autumn and winter, but they are toiling away in the kitchen preparing jams, jellies and fruit drinks. Delicacies are their area of expertise, and David Nilsson who as good as grew up in the forest foraging for berries, has good advice for anyone heading out into the forest.

“Don’t go mushrooming alone and always take water and snacks.

Make sure you have good shoes on and extra bags in case you strike gold. If you are going berry picking, here are a few guidelines that may help: Lingonberries grow best among the pine trees, blueberries prefer fir trees. If you are after cloudberries, you need to find wet, mossy terrain. Cloudberries are both good for you and delicious, but they can be hard to find. And when you are out and about in the forests and terrain in the region, you have a good chance of coming across wild raspberries too. Enjoy it out there!”

You’ll need good shoes and extra bags in case you strike gold.

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The Swedish lifestyle EQUALITY, SUSTAINABILITY AND LAGOM wo r d s

Elin Holmberg

M A K E S U R E YO U A L S O D I S C O V E R …

Swedish fika. You won’t have to spend much time in Sweden before you come across the concept “fika”.

Swedes love to fika – and drink nine (!) kilos of coffee per person each year. And they love a bit of baking with their coffee – the combination of the two makes up the concept of “fika”. A typical cake in Sweden is the Princess Cake, look for the large round green cake in every bakery you pass. But don’t be surprised if you meet someone for a “fika” and there is no coffee or cake involved, “fika” can also mean just spending time together. Check out the hashtag #swedishfika on instagram to get a feel for the phenomenon.

PREPARE YOURSELF FOR IMPRESSIVE NATURE, LIGHT NIGHTS AND A FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE, AND learn how to ‘fika’. WHEN YOU’RE PLANNING A VISIT TO SWEDEN, IT MIGHT BE A GOOD IDEA TO LEARN A BIT ABOUT THE COUNTRY AND ITS PEOPLE BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME.

by Swedish nature that is magnificent, untouched and accessible for everyone. Yes, you read that correctly! Open to everyone. The Swedish Right of Public Access is totally unique and gives all people the chance to get out into nature. So take the chance!

Swedes love outdoor life and nature and when you meet them in the forest or on the trail, expect them to be friendly but reserved. There’s nothing wrong with small talk, it’s just that Swedes are no good at it. Swedes can be helpful, but not particularly forthcoming. In central and northern Sweden summer nights are long and light. The locals here are known to be both calm, trustworthy and a little shy. They love spending time together around an open campfire – grilling sausages is a typical Swedish pastime which is carried out all year round. This can also be done indoors; many Swedes have open fireplaces inside their homes.

B E P R E PA R E D T O B E I M P R E S S E D

for their innovative design, fashion and music. Most of them love to watch “mello”, the competition that determines who will represent Sweden in the European Song Contest. This is treated more or less as a festival for the entire month of February. We are very proud of our world-famous music artists such as Abba, Avicii, Roxette, Europe and Björn Skifs. A less well-known artist is Tomas Ledin, a singer with roots in the High Coast and songs about the World Heritage Site.

SW E D E S A R E K N OW N

THE SPOT CHALLENGE

If Swedes have nothing to talk about, they’ll talk about the weather.

And nothing can get in the way of their traditions. Such as the “Crayfish Premier” in August where they sing songs and feast on crayfish whilst wearing colourful hats and drinking schnapps. Become an expert in all that is typically Swedish! Look out for these elements and brag about your knowledge of Swedish lifestyle and culture.

Swedes love their holidays and festivals. Celebrating Lucia in December is important – the season needs light, joy, goodness and music. Midsummer represents the start of summer and is celebrated with a traditional smorgasbord where pickled herring plays a central role. Take the opportunity to dance around the Maypole, it is a key feature of Swedish culture. Some Swedes like to dress up in traditional folk costumes that are the same colour as the Swedish flag.

Learn the word “hen” which means both he and she.

That “hen” has become fully accepted says a lot about Sweden being one of the most gender-equal countries in the world. Swedes are proud of how far they have come on this front, and many men and women try hard to share the responsibilities of home. Swedish dads are among the best in the world for taking paternity leave.

L I K E T H E E N V I R O N M E N T , sustainability and recycling. They sort their recyclables and hate throwing food away. Shopping for second-hand clothes and furniture is seen as modern and positive. In the summer, thousands of flea markets are held and this is seen by Swedes as a bit of a national symbol. As a tourist in the High Coast, you will have many chances to find a treasure or two among someone else’s off-casts. Dare to test fermented Baltic herring! It is northern Sweden’s national dish and really is delicious if it is served with the right accompaniments. Don’t let the smell put you off, it tastes great! // SWEDES

Meatballs Small red cottages Swedish mulled wine Cinnamon buns Crayfish Criminal drama series

Sauna Schnapps Moose Reindeer Bears Volvo

GUIDE TO

/ DAYS INDOORS FOR DAYS WHEN THE SUN IS HIDING, YOU JUST WANT to stay

inside.

BUT WHAT DOES THE HIGH COAST LOCALS DO

When it rains

NATURUM VISITOR CENTRE EXHIBITION

Exciting and colourful exhibition about our unique coast, the land uplift and how the High Coast World Heritage Site was formed. Modern and attractively presented with stylish architecture.

PARADISET

POOL COMPLEX

Tropical swimming complex in Örnsköldsvik. Fantastic relax and sauna section for the mums and dads, and for the kids a play land with pirates and Sweden’s longest water slide – the Magic Eye, 180 metres long.

BAAZINGA P L AY L A N D

800 square metres of adventure filled with slides, ball pits, ball canons and trampolines. There is also a climbing frame with five levels and lots of fun extras. You have to be four to play, and you have to be careful.

VÄSTERNORRLANDS MUSEUM MUSEUM

One of Sweden’s larger outdoor museums with houses and outdoor exhibits from the 1800s and 1900s. Exciting and interesting temporary and permanent exhibitions.

Activities for both large and small.

TECHNICHUS SCIENCE

One of Sweden’s 19 Science Centers. This is where the next generation of technicians, researchers and entrepreneurs can come for inspiration, exciting scientific experiments and tricky problems to solve. Located in Härnösand.

NATURKOMPANIET SHOPPING

N AT U R U

Northern Europe’s largest outlet for outdoor gear. Located in the same building as Fjällräven. Naturkompaniet is actually one of the High Coast’s most popular tourist destinations so make sure you get here early in the morning to beat the crowds.

M

P R E C I P I TAT I O N

56

The High Coast gets an average of 600 mm of rain every year, making us one of the country’s drier areas. Keinovuopio in the far north gets the least rain in Sweden with its 400 mm, while Sarek is topping the list with its average of 1600 mm over the last 60 years.

MAGASIN HÖGA KUSTEN 2019

WELCOME TO ADVENTURE, N AT U R E AND CO M PA N I O N S H I P

ON TWO WHEELS ...you will discover the best of the High Coast, both along the country roads but perhaps even more off-road roads where the wilderness takes off. Here the landscape offers deep forests with narrow technical paths with roots and stones (Skuleskogen), or fine trails with breathtaking views (Vårdkasberget), downhill tracks just a stone’s throw from the city center (Örnsköldsvik / Sollefteå) to sandy tallmo (Trehörningsjö) and smooth cliffs (Rotsidan) . Plan your bike trip on hogakusten.com

2

2 000 M OUTDOOR STORE AND OUTLET

örnsköldsvik

brogatan 141, fjällrävenhuset tel: 0660-103 40 | mon–fri 10–18 | sat 10–16 | sun 11–16 www.naturkompaniet.se