What’s in a Boot? NEW MEXICO has long been a place where the cowboy boot is celebrated and embraced. From the ranch to the opera, it’s considered appropriate here to wear your boots anywhere and everywhere, and pair them with jeans, a skirt or even dress pants.
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he design of the cowboy boot as we know it started in Texas, Oklahoma and Kansas. Two of the best known early bootmakers were Charles Hyer of Hyer Brothers Boots in Olathe, Kansas, and H. J. “Daddy Joe” Justin of Justin Boots in Spanish Fort and later Nocona, Texas. The tall leather shaft that distinguishes cowboy boots from other types of boots was important for many reasons, least of which was in lieu of laces. For instance, a cowboy had to walk through brush and shrubs, often laden with thorns. His boots helped protect his calf and ankle against brambles, rocks, snakes and even chaffing from the stirrup. And in crossing a stream, the high shaft kept out mud and water. For many settlers in the western United States, horseback riding was a way of life. Appropriately, riding boots have long been associated with equestrian culture. This is because the design of a boot itself is optimal for mounting and dismounting. The smooth tread-less sole and pointed toe allow for ease in and out of the stirrup, and the lifted heal makes it difficult for the rider’s foot to slide through the stirrup, which could cause an otherwise dangerous situation. In the late 1800s, the challenging nature of cattle drives and ranch work made it imperative to
be able to get on and off a horse quickly, and a good boot facilitated that. While traditionally made from cowhide leather, boots today are made from any number of animal skins, including alligator, snake, ostrich, elephant, elk and buffalo. Cowboys of yore would request specific stitches on the shaft design (with the star of Texas being a favorite). Hollywood later popularized cowboy boots in western films, and design possibilities soon grew limitless, if not utilitarian. Of course, boots are now often mass produced, but the most highly prized are still custom made. Many of the most notable bootmakers today are in Texas, and include Lee Miller of Texas Traditions as well as Jerry and Patti Ryan of Heritage Boots. We have a number of quality bootmakers of our own in both Albuquerque and Santa Fe, as well as in smaller towns around the state. Each proprietor sizes their boots differently, so it’s important to try on a pair before purchase. A properly fit boot allows for the wearer to freely wiggle his/her toes, and a snug fit is recommended, as leather eventually softens and conforms to a wearer’s foot. Whether you find yourself wearing them every day or donning them for special occasions, owning a pair of custom-made cowboy boots is a quintessential part of the Western experience. You’ll find they are comfortable, stylish, easy to put on, and connected to a heritage that defines this part of the country.