Menswear SS18 Trending Guide

SS18 TRENDING GUIDE

menswear

c o lour theory There's a colour war waging this season between the rich PURPLES the neon YELLOWS and the utilitarian GREENS Words by Claire O'Donnell Opposite: MAN, Balenciaga, KTZ

the

COLOUR

PURPLE REIGN PURPLE REIGN

“I only want to see you underneath that purplerain”

{ } How to Style

Mix deep tones of purple with black and light tones with white layers for day.

Satin and velvet finishes amp the opulence for night

From the paler end of the colour wheel to a darker and more brooding spectrum, PURPLE is the unexpected reigning shade of the season.

Above: Prince, Purple Rain Tour

the colour of ss18 Often associated with flowers (verbena, clematis, iris and lisianthus our pick of the bunch) and royalty, DOLCE & GABBANA took a literal approach to these reference points through a stalking cheetah and jungle design interwoven with floral print, as well as its playing– card king motif. While the Italian design duo’s fuchsia two–piece suit – a vivid purplish–red with a heady metallic sheen – demands attention and recalls Prince’s 1984 cult classic PURPLE RAIN.

Dolce & Gabbana

Even one of contemporary fashion’s gothic masters DAMIR DOMA couldn’t resist the pick– me–up pleasure of purple, adding new lustre to the tried–and–tested bomber jacket and Windbreaker – part of an athleisure capsule with Italian sportswear company Lotto.

Damir Doma

HAIDER ACKERMANN ushered in powdery LAVENDER tones across suiting, semi–sheer layers, braided belts and slouchy jogging bottoms.

Berluti

The trend appeared in the collection for the Paris–based menswear brand BERLUTI, where Ackermann is also Creative Director. Think mauvish–crimson hues with masculine authority, although he was clear to point out backstage, “I would not like this to be my own show.

I am at the service of the house of Berluti.”

Haider Ackermann

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THERE'S NO

SUCH THING AS

When it comes to incoming trends, the Think bright highlighter yellow, golden ochre and

Electrify your look with eye–popping neon yellow, as workwear during the New York Fashion Week: Men's Central Saint Martins. Way cooler and

Elsewhere, richly hued brownish–yellow mustard t

SALVATORE FERR

For his second men’s show as Creative Director of retro–tinged aesthetic with mustardy incarnations of u

DRIES VAN NOTEN used the colour palette to ad

high–waisted trousers and trench edit’s tobac

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the colour of ss18

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PRONOUNCE

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OAMC

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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MARNI

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KIKO KOSTADINOV

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BERTHOLD

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NO. 21

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DRIES VAN NOTEN

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DAKS

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MELLOW YELLOW

e big colour story for SS18 is YELLOW. the eternal cool–weather favourite mustard yellow.

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s seen via KIKO KOSTADINOV’s modern slant on schedule, his fourth collection since graduating from d audacious than a high–visibility vest.

tones warmed up the runways at DAKS, OAMC, RAGAMO and AMI.

MARNI, Francesco Risso, maintained the brand’s

utility staples, chunky knitwear and relaxed tailoring.

dd depth and a little punch against military shirting, h coats, working well against the cco browns.

Don't be afraid! It's all about embracing head-to-toe yellow for SS18. Outerwear was prevalent, so don a trophy jacket to tap the trend

the colour of ss18

KTZ

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CORPS

THE KHAKI

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urn

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{ } How to Style

From cargo shorts and trousers, military jackets to surplus jumpsuits, khaki hits the nail on the head with its army associations

There’s no denying that the military of the world have had an unmistakable impact While originally used to camouflage military force, protecting personnel and heav various shades of military green, from deep forest green to grey–ish khaki and rich you’ll find elevated upgrades from J.W. ANDERSON, NEIL BARRETT and DRI skin tones.” If you think the sartorial results were as regimented as its history wou designers thrived on one–upmanship. LEMAIRE’s abstract ode to camouflage fee RAEBURN’s SS18 show at London Fashion Week Men's softened the lo

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t on fashion and the menswear SS18 runways dreamed up all–new colour alchemy. vy–duty equipment, this season’s incognito colour palette is all about being seen in olive. Stepping forward from its utilitarian roots to channel a precise new elegance, IES VAN NOTEN – the latter even referred to his meticulous grouping as “strange uld suggest, think again. Few pledged purism to traditional army uniforms, instead els less combative and far more modern and reenergised, while CHRISTOPHER ook completely in neutral tones best suited to the desert. We salute you.

T all & Low From the highest of waist-cinching HIGHS to the lowest of hemline LOWS, the cut of the season drew parallels and manipulated the silhouette Words by Christopher Prince Opposite: Rick Owens, Marni

the

CU T

the cut of ss18

THE CUT OF THE SEASON

TALL MAT TERS CREATE AN IMPRESSION FROM THE ANKLES UP THIS SEASON WITH TAILORING TAILORED TO REACH BRAND NEW HEIGHTS

It now seems a foregone conclusion that, if you haven’t embraced the extreme high-rise trend in your tailoring arsenal, you will be doing so by this time next year. We’re not talking costume however, there’s still a strong sense of wearability embraced in this retro-revival movement thanks to the likes of DRIES VAN NOTEN and LEMAIRE imbuing some ‘normalcy’ into the mix with simple shirt styling. Talking of eclecticism, it was the ‘40s Zoot Suit (reinterpreted by David Bowie in the ‘70s) that struck a chord with Miuccia PRADA, FENDI and on home soil via MARTINE ROSE, with cinched trousers designed to coordinate with boxy HIGH STANDARDS blazers, suspenders and silk ties. Carol Lim and TOP: Belted at Humberto Leon picked up on that verve at KENZO Dries Van Noten SS18 / LEFT: too, but sparred graphic motifs with neon hues to Cinched at Rick modernise the outcome. While RICK OWENS Owens SS18 dared to bare up top to deflect gender confines.

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Did You Know?

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The Zoot Suit was once banned in America during the '40s

Pay homage to the Zoot Suit with suspenders and a silk tie. Plus leather brogues, a briefcase and slicked hair to complete the look

THE ZOOT SUIT

A sign of the rebellious times, the Zoot Suit is back in favour with city-dwellers seeking a two-piece with personality Clockwise: Prada, Fendi, David Bowie (1974), Kenzo, Martine Rose, Man in Zoot Suit (1940s)

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LEMAIRE

Y/PROJECT

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the cut of ss18

SKEW YOU Let's not get it twisted, this season's layering may sprout from every angle and cut at every length, but there's a definite put-togetherness catered to even the most suited and booted modern day dandy

Clockwise From Top: Balmain, Yohji Yamamoto, Thom Browne, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Astrid Andersen, MSGM, Todd Snyder, Valentino, Marni, Sacai

ANGLING FOR ATTENTION

{ } How to Style

Make layering wearable by peaking shirttails from beneath a crewneck jumper. Or make like Sacai and tie sleeves around the waist

Colours and patterns aren’t the only elements held to the highest standard on the SS18 runways. One of the most notable trends across the board saw an inversion of the traditional rules of layering.

Those familiar with the act know the longest almost always goes on top, but this season cast aside the rulebook to suspend shirttails from all manner of hemlines. Chitose Abe at SACAI mastered this with aplomb by tying shirt sleeves around waists printed with the same pattern as the garment up top, while for Olivier Rousteing at BALMAIN it was all about elongating the silhouette beneath cropped jackets. As for Sarah Burton, her ALEXANDER MCQUEEN man was treated to a skew of the hem too, though in scalloped lace (naturally). THOM BROWNE’s maverick approach to menswear caused yet more anarchy with a gender bending collection that forced his models into the confines of pencil skirts and heels, hidden beneath multiple suiting layers.

surface Combining STRIPE variations skewed horizontally and vertically with GLOSSY patent finishes, this season’s print and texture proved both graphic and tactile Words by Imogen Orchard Opposite: Kenzo, Raf Simons

the

PRINT/ TEXTURE

{ } How to Style

Be bold with a pinstriped two-piece suit sans a shirt, or keep things sporty by opting for logo and varsity tapes

Clockwise From Left: Sacai, AMI, Comme des Garรงons, Haider Ackermann, Balmain, Juun. J, Marni

STRIPE

the print of ss18 UP

YOUR LIFE ADIEU BRETON; YOUR COMPULSION TO STICK TO THE LINES WITH REPETITIVE RELIABILITY GOT REPETITIVE, AND TOO RELIABLE By the finale of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, vertical stripes emerged a lust–worthy alternative. But the best of the crop were not fussy with measurements; instead, stripes appeared in all shapes and sizes on the same garment – here’s looking at you, Filippo Scuffi at DAKS and Gordon Richardson at TOPMAN DESIGN – in what's often dubbed a deckchair stripe. Crashing with coastal verve, it takes its name from – no points for this one – the humble British deckchair. If your sartorial preferences tend more towards marketing than Margate, give pinstripes a chance. At OFF-WHITE, Virgil Abloh converted the label’s now–iconic diagonal stripe into the thinnest of stripes on offer while JUUN. J lined them up and deconstructed them in artful suiting (leather bum bag optional but highly commended). A true conqueror of the trend will (un)coordinate to his heart’s content.

LINEAR LINES

TOP: Topman Design SS18 LEFT: OffWhite, SS18 James Dean, Mick Jagger

PATENT THE TOWN RED

HERMÈS

BOSS

RICK OWENS

the texture of ss18

WHEN IT COMES TO WATERPROOF FASHION, THERE REALLY IS NOTHING WISER THAN SLICK PVC

{ } How to Style

Best reserved for outerwear, make like Raf Simons and don a rain repelling patent mackintosh, but trade black for a more unique hue

ZIGGY STARDUST

David Bowie performing in his Angel of Death costume (1980)

No one can deny it’s a definite win for April showers. But let's not turn a blind eye to this material's slippery past. Often thought of as leather's more promiscuous cousin, the quirky types of Camden will be disappointed to discover that PVC has its history in the 1800s. First adopted as a practical alternative to wax jackets, it was only in the 60s, when PACO RABANNE established the high-fashion version of the PVC dress, that things got hot and steamy (if you didn’t have talcum powder to hand, that is).

Proving that it isn’t just Catwoman and the hardcore outdoor adventurer who share PVC as a sartorial domain, the RICK OWENS SS18 collection championed everything from high-shine shorts to patent high-waisted trousers. Designers as diverse as Veronique Nichanian at HERMÈS and Jeremy Scott at MOSCHINO fell prey to its seductive qualities with the former using this season to signal the joys of hoodies, trousers and track tops crafted from the fabric. Our first tip? Opt for every colour but black to avoid awkward advances. Second? If they weren’t already, Mick Jagger and David Bowie are your new style heroes and virile swagger your only accessory.

Exposed with DIAPHANOUS layers, or lack thereof, fabric focused on tempering the body beneath. But also on the cards was a rework of the humble and hardworking DENIM Words by Thea Bichard Opposite: Ann Demeulemeester, Wooyoungmi

the

FABRIC

Wham! George Michael with Andrew Ridgeley

the fabric of ss18

MESH

ADO

ABOUT NOTHING Sportswear was still top of the podium at the SS18 menswear shows, so to achieve a season’s best, designers complemented languid tailoring with chest-baring mesh and maintained a competitive spirit by working in a hint of 90s sports gear. Two of the Antwerp Six championed the perforated look: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER slipped semi-sheer sleeveless tops beneath her loose-fit tailoring, slung open-knits over contrasting vests and left chests exposed with see-through tees, while elsewhere at PFW, DRIES VAN NOTEN tucked his string and mesh styles into voluminous trousers. Across the channel, MAN’s Per Götesson carried the baton for the same kind of styling, slipping his porous fabrics beneath blazers or piling them one on top of one another to create textured mesh-mashes. On the retro end of the spectrum: MARCELO BURLON with a hint of breathable basketball jerseys, CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN’s head-to-toe efforts of logo-trimmed mesh that left models’ skin exposed and FENG CHEN WANG who ran a similar race, adopting the fabric as a standin for jersey on his crewneck sweatshirts and tees. Let the cultural mesh-ups ensue.

Clockwise From Top: Marcelo Burlon, MAN, Dries Van Noten, Christopher Raeburn, Feng Chen Wang

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Counterbalance the sheerness of mesh by layering up. Or use it subtly as an accent beneath restricted tailoring

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Did You Know?

The first pair of jeans were devised by Levi Strauss & Co in 1873

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Whatever rise, rinse, shape or cut, the way to style denim this season is by tucking the layers up top in with a belt

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DEEP BLUE SEAMS

Paint splatters, rips, shreds, patchwork and panels, the rebellious rinse is most definitely in this season Clockwise: Balenciaga, Diesel Black Gold, Levi's Campaign, Philipp Plein, Martine Rose, The Ramones

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WHITEWASH

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WOOYOUNGMI

BERLUTI

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THE FABRIC OF THE SEASON

BLUES BROTHERS DENIM TRENDS ARE MORE OF AN INEVITABILITY THAN A NOVELTY FOR MENSWEAR VALENTINO

DIESEL BLACK GOLD met expectations with a plethora of patchwork pieces, while PHILIPP PLEIN opted for a spectrum that ranged from

saturated to stonewashed. Aside from the mainstays, there are some new additions to the blue-wash bunch. It wasn’t so much Dad bods as Dad denim at BALENCIAGA, where Demna Gvasalia’s model families sported mid-blue hues on their straight-cut styles. Over in London, the feeling was blue-tual, with CRAIG GREEN making his first foray into jeans territory, debuting a voluminous azure pair. Also cheering for the blue team, OLIVER SPENCER and MARTINE ROSE plumped for 70s-inspired fits and dipped into the same down-the-middle palette. Seeing double was touted as a fashion statement rather than a faux pas – so long as the shades were a perfect match. BERLUTI (whitewashed), MARECELO BURLON (dipdyed), VALENTINO (raw), VERSACE (patched), VETEMENTS (spliced) and WOOYOUNGMI (bleached) all paraded denim two-pieces in their collections, invariably opting for trucker jackets and jeans with plenty of leg room. Honourable mentions got to the accessories – LOUIS VUITTON capped off its collection with denim hats and Y/PROJECT bundled on oversized, over-the-thigh, faded-wash boots. Time to embrace the blues.

M ini Lens The modern man demands accessories which work with his lifestyle. Gone are the days of the man bag, for SS18 called on MINI crossbody messengers, and as for face furniture, the more RETRO the better Words by Ettie Stevenson Opposite: Lanvin, Kenzo

the

ACCESSORY

the accessory of ss18

BACK TO THE FUTURE WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK PHOTOGRAPHED BY LUCIE ROX FOR DAZED RIGHT: BACK TO THE FUTURE (1985)

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ALEX MULLINS

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In an age where we’re constantly intrigued (borderline obsessed) with the FUTURE, it’s no wonder that it’s starting to seep into how we dress as well. Just think about how involved we are with futuristic films and TV series – everything from The Handmaid’s Tale to The Hunger Games has kept the nation on its toes. Keeping it wearable (no plastic bags stuffed into tights or bottles used as shoes a la Vivienne Westwood), the SS18 men’s catwalks showed a futuristic thread that manifested itself for the most part in eyewear – specifically sunglasses. Coming in all shapes and forms of the WEIRD and WACKY, this eyewear is ready to wear from take-off. For slightly dystopian with a touch of techno, turn to WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK – think effortlessly cool and youthful with a slight hint back to ‘00s raves… hello, bucket hats and almost too tight leggings. Whereas KENZO took a different approach and its creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim paid homage to the label’s roots with a contrast of cultures and colours, while making the eyewear of the collection focus on jet-packed aviators with a white frame. Oh and the way to wear? Suits or colour clashing both work equally well. This is a trend that has no boundaries, no rules – nothing set in stone – echoing the reality of the unpredictable future. Next time you have your daily debate over which is better Alexa or Google Home – do so in space-age attire.

KENZO

ITE OFF-WH

VERSACE

ISSEY MIYAKE

A$AP ROCKY

PRADA

If you thought MINI bags were reserved solely for females then it’s about time for a rethink. Break the stigma of the dreaded ‘man bag’ with a neat and nifty mini bag. They’re the modern day solution for making sure the essentials – phone, cards and keys – are with you without having to rummage about. We’re in an age when MINIMALISM has progressed from what it was in the ‘60s and ‘70s – a simple art movement – and is now intertwined with the everyday, some follow it as a lifestyle where others just incorporate the general concept of less is more e.g. these pocket-diary size carriers.

So, before reaching for a big ol’ holdall or your well-travelled backpack think about taking the bare essentials with you in a SMALL crossbody.

Take inspiration from Parisian brand LANVIN and keep it simple – more defined like a camera-bag yet still casual like a messenger-bag. Creative director Lucas Ossendrijver said of the collection: “I didn’t want anything too formal or too dressy. I think people should be at ease with what they wear nowadays, but still with an energy, with some kind of excitement.”

Alternatively, take notes from Stoke-on-Trent born MATTHEW MILLER with a mini backpack worn front ways – the only rule being to keep the rest of your look unstructured to mix with the on-going athleisure phenomenon.

LIAM HODGES

SKEPTA

LOUIS VUITTON

the accessory of ss18

IT'S A MIXED BAG VALENTINO

F ringe Cover While SS18 made a case for COVERING precious locks with bucket hats and caps, the hair trend for the season paid homage to‘70s SHAGGY styles with fringes and curls galore Words by Chloe Ramful Opposite: Dior Homme, Raf Simons

the

STYLING

the styling of ss18

FRINGE FESTIVAL FRINGES ARE SET TO MAKE A WELCOMED REAPPEARANCE FOR SS18, WHERE THEY'LL BE STYLED IN AN ARRAY OF GUISES FROM EASY AND UNDONE Cue Mick Jagger circa 1960 – to side swept and contemporarily cropped.

Showcasing a distinct likeness to those characters sported in Japanese Manga comics, Rei Kawakubo had bangs cut to micro lengths and slicked with gel on the COMME DES GARÇONS runway, while house’s such as DIOR and LOUIS VUITTON also adopted this heavily product-based ‘wet look’ finish. If you’re not familiar with fringes and their many face-framing benefits, then you may want to start with a much softer approach – illustrated by BOSS, E. TAUTZ and cutting-edge South Korean label, D.GNAK. Blunt, shorter bangs are much harder to pull-off than your go-to ‘short back and sides’ do and, more importantly, may not suit every face shape. Side-parted fringes (another key look for the approaching season) require less commitment and can be worn either sleek or messily, enabling you to mould and adapt the look to your own personal style.

GIVE IT A CHOP

TOP: Mick Jagger (1966) LEFT: Rod Stewart, John Lennon and Paul McCartney, Liam Hodges SS18

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Add a little salt spray on damp hair to gain volume and texture.

For shorter styles keep blunt fringes fresh every 2-4 weeks with a trim

Clockwise From Left: Walter Van Beirendonck, J.W. Anderson, E. Tautz, Louis Vuitton, D.gnak, Marni, Dior Homme

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Hats make an outfit, so be wise with which pathway you choose. A bucket for a festival, or a peak cap for sport it's your call

Clockwise From Left: Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Lanvin, Astrid Andersen, Raf Simons, Neil Barrett, Zegna

the styling of ss18

HEADS UP IF YOU’RE NOT USUALLY THE TYPE TO TURN TO HEADWEAR, SS18 COULD BE THE SEASON YOU FIND YOURSELF TOPPING OFF YOUR LOOKS WITH SOMETHING A LITTLE EXTRA Still holding the torch for the prevalent athleisure trend, a look that’s taken full reign of the runway over the past couple over years, designer’s such as FENDI and ZEGNA added to fashion’s ongoing sporting sensibility with baseball caps – partnering them with everything from casual separates to slick tailoring. Meanwhile, in an ode to hip-hop heritage, the likes of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN and Parisian powerhouse LANVIN reimagined a retro classic with ‘love it or hate it’ bucket hats. But before you start thinking about pulling out your adidas originals and styling it up with an old school tracksuit (à la the nineties), think again, as designers actually intend for the accessory to be teamed with formalwear – taking your look beyond the office with minimal effort required. Dare to go the extra mile? Make like ASTRID ANDERSEN who centred his whole collection on headwear – marrying statement veillike fabrications with seasonal sunhat silhouettes.

TOP IT OFF

TOP: Liam Gallagher LEFT: Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel Air, Street Style at LFWM, LL Cool J