SS18 TRENDING GUIDE
womenswear
contents EDITOR NATASHA TAGHAVI
SUB-EDITOR IMOGEN ORCHARD TRENDING COORDINATOR CHLOE RAMFUL DESIGN CHRISTOPHER PRINCE WRITERS THEA BICHARD CLAIRE O’DONNELL IMOGEN ORCHARD CHRISTOPHER PRINCE CHLOE RAMFUL ETTIE STEVENSON TRENDING CONTRIBUTORS ANDREA HOLMQVIST HAYLEY WAUMSLEY
COLOUR THEORY
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IMOGEN ORCHARD
CUT SHARP
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ETTIE STEVENSON
EXOTIC FRINGE
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THEA BICHARD
SHINE & SHEEN
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CLAIRE O’DONNELL
GRAPHIC IMPACT
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CHLOE RAMFUL
PRIM & PROPER
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CHRISTOPHER PRINCE
c o lour theory There's a colour war waging this season between the neon ORANGES and the barely-there WHITES Words by Imogen Orchard Opposite: Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander
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COLOUR
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ORANGE IS THE
UNLIKE THE FRUIT, ORANGE IS A RAR SS18 ENSURES THOSE VITAMIN C LEVELS AR
In an age where ‘Streetwear: The Sub-culture’ has lost its aesthetic with more frequency and in new and inventive inhaled by the fashion set quicker than you can say ‘paradox a certain British brand named Burberry. Their common the just the sizeable silhouettes, but th
Not a hue most people will sport on the daily, its zesty Coddington’s hair and Michael Kors’ tan. On the runway HOUSE OF HOLLAND embarking on the most E nu sunglasses for extra fizz - and EMILIO DE LA MORENA inside bit), mandarins, clementines, oranges and tangerin swimsuits. Over in Paris, SEE BY CHLOÉ washed linen s concentrate, this stuff was pure and pithy. Y accent colour to a head-t
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the colour of ss18
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NEW BL ACK
RELY ADOPTED CHOICE, UNTIL NOW. RE SKY-HIGH AND SARTORIALLY SATURATED
s prefix, it’s no wonder we’re coming across streaks of the guises. Louis Vuitton x Supreme collabs, Vetements drops xical design’ and Gosha Rubchinskiy’s steezy partnership with eme? Fashion pinched from the streetwear scene. And it isn’t he colours too - specifically, orange.
tone makes it something of an icon-maker: think Grace y, high-vis was the safest way to go with Henry Holland of umber-packed of mini dresses - complete with matching A deciding that your five a day should involve nectarines (the nes in tartan skirts, flamenco dresses and armband-attached skirts and long dresses with a more dusty finish - not from Your recommended dose varies between an to-toe look, so get juicing.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
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EMILIO DE LA MORENA
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DAIZY SHELY
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TOM FORD
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KIKO KOSTADINOV
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ROLAND MOURET
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VICTORIA VICTORIA BECKHAM
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SEE BY CHLOÉ
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CAROLINA HERRERA
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the colour of ss18
CARTE BL ANCHE
Clockwise From Top: Jil Sander, Tom Ford, Oscar de la Renta, Yang Li, Pringle of Scotland, Saint Laurent, Ann Demeulemeester, Off-White, Unravel, Rick Owens, Balmain
Saving white for the wedding day is so last season. SS18 sees it evolve into the brightest power player yet Somewhat of a sartorial cleanser, white is the remedy to AW17’s pouty millennial pink and underlying unicorn infatuation. The colour (or lack thereof) shone bright this season, a level-headed defiance of recent political events spearheaded by people like Lucie and Luke Meier who described their debut JIL SANDER collection as “feminine, light, and sensual”. Breezy tulle refracted band-collar shirting while SIMONE ROCHA wasn’t far behind with folded snowy satin like crumpled sheets and tiered ruffles that contemplated a chiaroscuro effect, inspired by the china dolls of Rocha’s childhood. The strongest look of them all - and the one you’ll be admiring street-side come SS18 - was that of the deconstructed dentist – less frou-frou and more life-or-death precision. It wasn’t just white splashed here and there, but white-as-a-uniform white. Virgil Abloh’s aptly-named OFF-WHITE (corset, top and trousers), OSCAR DE LA RENTA (paint-splattered shirt and skirt) and TOM FORD (pearly power two-piece) all took the spotlight with neck-to-hem whiteout looks. It’s the modern way of saying “I’ve taken this look and made it into a lewk”. Notoriously high-maintenance as spaghetti-eaters and make-up wearers will know, with all-white comes the deduction that you know how to look after your clothes, and you know what you’re doing. Embrace it.
C ut Sharp Razor sharp SUITING also fed into BOUNTIFUL oversized layering for SS18. Sometimes, the cut of the season was barely there at all as silhouettes practically FELL off the body Words by Ettie Stevenson Opposite: Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang
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the cut of ss18
THE CUT OF THE SEASON
OOH, I FALL APART IT’S TIME TO GET YOUR SEWING MACHINE OUT, PULL APART SEAMS AND STITCH YOUR CLOTHING BACK TOGETHER IN UNUSUAL WAYS. ANYTHING GOES AND THE MORE UNIQUE THE CUT, THE BETTER
HANGING BY A THREAD
TOP: Zipped at Christopher Kane SS18 / ABOVE: Suspended at Helmut Lang SS18
Deconstruction was the buzzword throughout the SS18 womenswear shows: bras were worn on the outside of oversized blazers à la HELMUT LANG and trousers were formed from contrasting elements and patterns where Balenciaga was concerned. CHRISTOPHER KANE tackled your top half with thick jumpers embellished with multiple zips, all partly undone. What makes these haphazard designs so newly impressive is the mishmash of fabrics, as Kane’s chunky wool layers were merged with the sheerness of mesh skirts. Bulky cardigans received the same go-backwards-to-go-forwards treatment with deep slashes chaotically opening up the shoulders, leading the way for more progressive styling. The former Creative Director of Balenciaga, ALEXANDER WANG, put his own spin on this trend with blazers worn off-the-shoulder and shirts fashioned from two opposing styles. Think of it as team spirit, but in clothing form different textures work together to create something more memorable than the sum of their parts.
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Clockwise: Monse, Y/Project, Viktor + Rolf AW15 Couture, Maison Margiela, Backstage at Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane
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MASTERY
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Yves Saint Laurent, Le Smoking 1966
the cut of ss18
FIX
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LOOK SHARP IT’S SAFE TO SAY WE’VE COME ON LEAPS AND BOUNDS WHERE GENDERLESS DRESSING IS CONCERNED, BUT THOSE LINES BETWEEN WOMENSWEAR AND MENSWEAR BEGAN TO BLUR A LONG TIME AGO
The start of more mainstream androgynous dressing can be traced back to the ‘20s when Coco Chanel used “masculine” materials and took inspiration from the sailor suit for her pioneering designs: blazers, cuff-linked shirts and jumpers - but for women. In the ‘60s, menswear-inspired style grew in popularity thanks to Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’, a tuxedo suit with a narrow silhouette that framed the figure. Drawing on those initial ground-breaking designs, on the SS18 runways suits cropped up in all shapes and sizes: VICTORIA BECKHAM’s eponymous label teamed oversized-collared shirts with loose-fitting blazers all in pastel PlayDoh hues. Also heralding the larger-than-life look, MARC JACOBS exaggerated the proportions of his suit jackets. Take particular note of American model Gigi Hadid’s two-sizes-too-big style, cinched in flatteringly with a rope belt at the waist. Jonny Johansson, Creative Director for ACNE, sought drama in collars, pairing them with wide-leg trousers and cropped waistcoats - a look in keeping with Saint Laurent’s aforementioned tailored three-piece, but one that felt so right for now.
Clockwise From Top: Victoria Beckham, Acne Studios, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Joseph
{ } How to Style
If you’re opting for a large and in charge two-piece suit it’s best to bite the bullet and embrace the volume. A waist-cinching belt can’t go amiss
E xotic Fringe MOTION and statement-making motifs were high on the agenda for SS18. Be it linear lines or bounty hunter SKINS, print was bold and beautiful.And as for texture, it was all about the freedom of flapper fringing Words by Thea Bichard Opposite: CĂŠline, Elie Saab
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PRINT/ TEXTURE
{ } How to Style
Bountiful fringe calls for confidence. If you’re on your sartorial game, then embrace your inner peacock and don the detail top-to-toe
Clockwise From Left: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Monse, Erdem, Bottega Veneta, Naeem Khaan, Nina Ricci, Jil Sander
FRINGE
the texture of ss18
BENEFITS EASY THERE, COWBOY, THE WESTERN INFLUENCE ON ALL THINGS TASSELY HAS HAD ITS TIME (UNLESS YOU COUNT DIOR’S SUBTLE LEATHER STRIPS) It’s a far sultrier affair for SS18 fringing - long, languid and lustrous are the keywords this season. Raf Simons debuted his new take on Americana at CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC with axes suspended from the show space ceiling. A collection of high school horror ensued, with cheerleaders’ pompoms subverted into fringed dresses; one resembling a modern Carrie costume of blood-red tendrils. Textures were less sinister at Phoebe Philo’s joyful CÉLINE runway, where freedom reigned supreme and the threads of fabric flowed accordingly. Tonal suede strewn beneath dresses and draped amongst oversized tailoring rendered designs all the more fluid. On the other side of Paris Fashion Week, French native Simon Porte JACQUEMUS sent his sun-kissed models through the Musée Picasso with a hint of fringe draped on sarong-like separates, ready for basking by the beach. Equally easygoing under ELIE SAAB’s Amazon canopy, safari shirts were shredded from the waist down. When dusk set in at Milan Fashion Week, BOTTEGA VENETA’s models stepped up in glittering gowns - think modern flappers in flippy dresses with embellished streamers. These are fringes cut with no regret.
Above: JACQUEMUS / Top: Céline
ONE DIRECTION
EMPORIO ARMANI
SONIA RYKIEL
VIVETTA
the print of ss18
LIQUORICE STRIPES
Bold and linear lines at Emilio Pucci
FORM AN ORDERLY QUEUE, IT ISN’T JUST FRESH FLORALS THAT ARE SPRINGING UP FOR SS18 STRIPES ARE BACK TO SEMAPHORE THE NEW SEASON
Divided into two distinct designer camps - one corporate, the other more campy - the party line for both was clear: everyone’s getting down with vertical patterns. As forthe-season as sun loungers and sickly sweet ice cream, deckchair stripes opened the show at JASON WU. Bella Hadid sported an asymmetric sundress, closely followed by a contemporary version of a kaftan in a pattern cut from a comparable cloth. Keeping the theme light, SONIA RYKIEL propelled the suiting trend from last season into spring, loosening it up further still to spin an entire two-piece in breezy stripes. Sticking with another sunny pursuit - and putting its own stamp on tailoring EMPOR IO ARMANI opted for stick-of-rock patterns in saccharine hues. Staying in single file, pinstripes played their part - Princess Diana’s iconic looks were reinterpreted through OFF-WHITE’s shirting, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM chalked up slouchy trousers and MARGARET HOWELL debuted a series of fluid suiting. Time to get in line.
the print of ss18
THE PRINT OF THE SEASON
ORIGINAL SKIN FROM TOP TO TAIL, SNAKESKIN SLID INTO THE SS18 COLLECTIONS AT EVERY LEVEL
Whether to amp up ‘70s aesthetics, add a bit of bite to diaphanous separates or anchor a look with animalistic accessories, python was (un)officially crowned the new King of the jungle. At ELIE SAAB: Amazonian references aplenty. No fewer than six full snakeskin looks made their way down the label’s catwalk canopy, comprising weightless maxi dresses, safari short suits, structured blazers and strappy sandals. Meanwhile, free-flowing label CHLOÉ snaked off in a new direction as Natacha Ramsay-Levi made her debut. Mixed in with the expected featherlight styles, python boots, leathery skirts and straight-cut separates had a grounding effect and subtle ‘70s vibes. We felt the same old-school verve at FENDI, where Karl Lagerfeld included a serpentine coat in his collection. Subtle slips of snakeskin SAFARI MUSINGS cropped up elsewhere in Milan, and beyond: BOTTEGA VENETA’s pencil ABOVE: Belted at Acne Studios / TOP: skirt, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’s halterneck gown and handbags at An exotic affair at TOD’S. To sum up the new animal on the block’s styling potential, ACNE Elie Saab STUDIOS accented its looks by pairing wide snakeskin trousers with belted field jackets; a blouse tucked into satin separates and slipped beneath a striped bomber; a mini skirt teamed with a pastel knit, or a pencil skirt that went incognito by camouflaging its animal print beneath tulle.
Clockwise From Top: Chloé, Bottega Veneta, Garbiela Hearst, Salvatore Ferragamo, Roberto Cavalli
{ } How to Style
Sartoriall speaking, an all over exotic skin can be hard to master, so break it up a little with different textures and tones à la Chloé
S hine & Sheen No matter the silhouette, fabric on the SS18 runways was high on impact and shine. GLOSSY leather toughened up outfits, while LUSTROUS satin ensured head-to-toe decadence Words by Claire O’ Donnell Opposite: Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen
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Peter Lindbergh, Vogue 1991
the fabric of ss18
GET LEATHERED
LEATHER REVVED UP THE SS18 RUNWAYS IN MANY GUISES – TOPS, SKIRTS, JACKETS, TROUSERS, DRESSES, GOWNS AND THIGH-HIGH BOOTS. WHATEVER THE WARDROBE STAPLE YOU’LL FIND IT IN VARIOUS COLOURS AND FINISHES FROM GLOSSY PATENT AND SOFTLY GRAINED, TO BUTTER-SOFT LAMBSKIN
Twenty years after her brother Gianni Versace’s death, Donatella staged an emotive show in his honour for SS18. The collection exuded vintage VERSACE viewed through a millennial lens. Mixing up key house elements, the stylistic results epitomise modern power dressing that’ll impress Insta-influencers and the street-style crowd alike - think gold coin necklaces and lots of studs on leather. J.W. ANDERSON reworked leather across unexpected silhouettes. Just as the freewheeling spirit of 1970s career wear is experiencing a revival: have it all with tunic tops, loose asymmetric skirts and float-on-by peasant dresses. You can always rely on OFF-WHITE and Creative Director Virgil Abloh to put its own spin on the trend. The in-demand label’s latest statement-making leather trousers are low-slung hip-huggers and fall into a flared, wide leg. Forget about smartening up your act, this is tailoring rock-star style teamed with oversized sunglasses and matching forearm-length leather gloves. As expected, Olivier Rousteing’s vision for BALMAIN made glamour a priority as highoctane pieces delivered high-shine finishes with patent and smooth leather across tapered trousers, jumpsuits, thigh-high boots and waist-cinching belts. SAINT LAURENT’s 1980s-inspired party girl also got on the leather guest list. Skinny cuts, sexed-up shorts and mini dresses; a grunge attitude sums up the new polish.
Clockwise From Top: Saint Laurent, J.W. Anderson, Versace, Off-White, Balmain
{ } How to Style
Dare to double-up on the shiny stuff. Or if you’re feeling a little more conservative, contrast the anarchy with a sweet blouse up top
the fabric of ss18
SATIN FEVER
Clockwise From Top: Victoria Beckham, Coach, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Lemaire, Nina Ricci, Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Off-White, Sies Marjan, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera
So soft, so shiny. Souped-up satin slinked down the SS18 runways Riding the wave of 1990s-inspired slip dresses, frilly Victorian blouses and a general desire to bring pyjama-style suiting into the daylight, this smooth, highshine fabric brought new drama to tried-and-tested silhouettes. Forget dowdy designs and sticking to more traditional eveningwear, this season’s satin gets hearts racing from COACH’s lingerie styles pimped with rhinestone straps, floral-lace trims and embroidered glittery, flower-shaped patch appliqués. CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC’s very first look pushed an American pragmatism-meetsplayfulness agenda, with Western-influenced uniforms reimagined in touchy-feely silk satin. “American horror, American dreams,” Creative Director Raf Simons explained, but these modern, streamlined and sleek, tailored pieces were impeccably cut and strong as hell. Hyper-feminine looks emerged from TOM FORD – resulting in sassy bomber jackets and a slinky mixand-match utilitarian pieces that are commanding and comfortable. STELLA MCCARTNEY turned up the volume with billowy tunic-style blouses and midi dresses with frilled high necks. The technical-looking fabric gave the pieces fluidity and modernity; “We’re not a big eveningwear brand so it’s definitely an attitude in how you wear those things,” the London-born designer said. Satin is no longer reserved for after-dark hours; make it in-the-moment day or night, wherever you decide to wear it.
Impact
Graphic
From BOLD and BEAUTIFUL lips to look-at-me lids washed with SACCHARINE sweet shades, SS18’s beauty trends modernise the application of classic products Words by Chloe Ramful Opposite: Pam Hogg, Minki
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BEAUTY
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{ } Colour Match
Fair with cool undertones: Raspberry Fair with red hair: True red Fair to Medium: Rose red Medium/ golden: Berry red Olive: Orange red and deep red Olive to dark: Wine red Dark: Opaque red
ANTONIO MARRAS
RED ALERT BY NO MEANS INNOVATIVE, BUT EVERY BIT CLASSIC, THE RED LIP IS A KEY LOOK FOR SS18 – AND LUCKILY FOR US, IT’S THE MOST WEARABLE AND COST-EFFECTIVE TREND TO TAP INTO THIS SEASON
MAX MARA
HAIDER ACKERMANN
DOLCE & GABBANA
Associated with Hollywood starlets of a bygone era and the ‘chicness’ of a Parisian aesthetic, it comes as no surprise that red lips are considered the ultimate go-to for instant glamour. Worn matte or glossy, deep or bright, there’s a texture and hue out there to suit every look, and what better way to seek inspiration than from the runway? For those of us who are time poor (who isn’t?), the thought of reapplying throughout the day is little more than a luxury; cue MAX MARA’s failsafe red. Over-blotted, undefined and with minimal effort, think very few touch-ups and no lip liner - bonus! Come evening, a red lip should become the focal point of your outfit. HAIDER ACKERMANN’s patent iteration commands attention and proves just as effective as the sole of a Louboutin Pigalle. Lined to perfection, with added emphasis on the Cupid’s bow, the finish is full and luminous thanks to a thick application of gloss. Want to take the look one step further? Take cues from ANTONIO MARRAS, where the more-is-more approach manifests itself in a smear of over-lining; a quick and effective way to achieve mega volume - no filler required.
BLUMARINE
CHANEL
MARCO DI VICENZO
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LANVIN
GET IN LINE KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE PRIZE THIS SEASON WITH BOLD, BLACK LINER THAT CAN TAKE YOUR LOOK FROM SUBTLE TO STATEMENT IN JUST A FLICK
JOHN GALLIANO
JUNYA WATANABE
ROCHAS
The beauty gurus backstage at SS18 waved farewell to the classic cat-eye in favour of a more graphic approach to eye liner, ranging from smudgy, to sharp and refined. Created by acclaimed make-up artist Lucia Peroni, the perfectly defined, arch liner at ROCHAS proved simple yet effective - instantly opening up the overall eye area and giving the illusion of a sought-after almond shape. For those less confident with liquid, the models at John Galliano demonstrated how you can achieve the same desired effect by using the humble pencil. Keep the look fresh with a bare complexion and nude lip. Taking a different slant (quite literally), L’OREAL’s Karin Rahman upped the ante in terms of attitude with a smoky iteration for fellow French fashion house LANVIN, by using black crème pigment on the bend of a straw and applying it to the outer corners of the eye. Sold? Then put down the brush and opt for this innovative, cost-effective tool for an undeniably cool, ‘tire track’ texture. Still too tame? Please your inner punk by going all-out grunge à la JUNYA WATANABE. Framing the eyes with roughly drawn, overlapping lines, this low-maintenance eye-do can be easily achieved with a semi-blunt kohl pencil - the more lived-in it looks, the better.
VERSUS
MIU MIU
TOM FORD
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MARNI
SUGARCOATED LIDS FROM SHERBET LEMON TO SOFT ROSE, THIS SEASON WELCOMES A WHOLE HOST OF COLOUR BRIGHTS TO YOUR EYESHADOW WARDROBE
PALMER HARDING
SOPHIA WEBSTER
VALENTINO
Pastels for Spring are like florals for Spring; we welcome them with open arms, but groundbreaking they are not. When it comes to beauty however, the pastel eyelid is quite the contrary. A pale and interesting way to embrace the muted palette, this progression from last season’s ‘Halo’ trend is a vibrant iteration that gives a whole new meaning to the smoky eye. Taking a romantic stance, SOPHIA WEBSTER swept soft lilac shades across the lids and bottom lash line while leaving brows and lashes untouched for an ethereal, doe-eyed finish. Meanwhile, designers such as MARNI took on a more graphic approach - painting the lids in an icy blue crème shadow and forgoing a blended finish for sharp, clean-cut definition instead. We suggest ditching the harsh blush and bronzer combo in favour of perfect, airbrushed-looking skin and a nude lip to finish. Feeling bold? Make PALMER HARDING your make-up mood board. Perfect for summer festivals and balmy sun-drenched evenings alike, it effectively combines a quad of colour brights - from pale grey to canary yellow - taking the shadow up and across the brow bone for an open-eyed, statement look; best set upon a bare base and finished with lashings of mascara.
MANISH ARORA
MISSONI
PHILIPP PLEIN
P rim& Proper If you’re choosing accessories from the SS18 runway it’s best to go big and bold. Whether GLISTENING in paillettes or EMBELLISHED with froufrou details, the devil is in the detail Words by Christopher Prince Opposite: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Undercover
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ACCESSORIES
the accessory of ss18
L AVISH LOBES ONCE THE GARNISH OF A FANTASTICAL HEAD-TO-TOE OUTFIT, A STATEMENT EARRING (YES THE SINGULAR) IS NOW THE MAIN COURSE TO SKIP STRAIGHT TO To be clear, these ear-dangling treasures are the kind of adornments that might strike a conversation, so get used to turning heads, even if it is just from one angle. Simon Porte JACQUEMUS befitted his Southern French muse with alternating gobstopper studs and drop earrings that looked as if they were stacked pebble by pebble. Models that stalked the runway of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s sophomore collection at OSCAR DE LA RENTA were decorated one way or another with rippling wired hoops or cutout flower pendants peaked between swept hair. One-sided ornamentations also found their way on home soil via Christopher Bailey at BURBERRY as massive bedazzled chandelier pendants fell over the shoulder and rested on the collarbone. MARY KATRANTZOU too adopted the impact of skewed jewels, but her interpretation was the result of genius engineering as orbs hung from studs, suspended only by caged pyramids. Francesco Risso was more pragmatic in his approach at MARNI, bending and twisting single pearl and metal earrings and coordinating them with necklaces. Top: Mary Katrantzou / Above: Jacquemus
{ } How to Style
Make like Marni and coordinate your statement earring to a coordinating neacklace. Matchymatchy shouldn’t be frowned upon
Clockwise From Left: Versus, Marni, Burberry, Oscar de la Renta, Saint Laurent, Toga, Diane von Furstenberg
the accessory of ss18
HEEL CANDY MIU MIU AND THE CASE OF THE BEAUTIFIED SANDAL RIGHT: MARIE ANTOINETTE (2006)
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IF YOU’RE A MODERN DAY MARIE ANTOINETTE WITH A PENCHANT FOR FANCY FOOTWEAR, SS18’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH INTRICATE ADORNMENTS MAY BE TOO HARD TO RESIST. SO DON’T.
Statement shoes have been outfitting the cream of the bourgeoisie crop for centuries, stretching back to the French Renaissance all the way to the street style stars of today. In the capital there was an ultra-feminine approach that guided both ERDEM Moralioglu and CHRISTOPHER KANE to crush on delicate embellishments, from pearl and crystal adorned velvet and silk to upcylced Crocs beautified with jewels. Equally as glorious to look at, but evidently more retro, was Miuccia PRADA who took a distinctly ‘70s route for her sequin dusted mules and flatforms, both at her namesake label and sister sibling MIU MIU. Sarah Burton toughened the approach at ALEXANDER MCQUEEN and instead imagined crystals as flowers across patent leather biker boots, even going as far to embed pearls and beads into Perspex heels. Ever the textile maverick, Mr DRIES VAN NOTEN reissued archival prints and jacquards, melding them together across knee-high heeled boots with aplomb and scattering a layer of glistening paillettes atop in the process. For a slightly more graphic and surreal approach it was down to the boys at DOLCE & GABBANA who attached miniature watches, crystal brooches, pompoms and leather harnesses to all manner of footwear.
OPHER CHRIST
KANE
DOLCE & GAB
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DRIES VAN NOTE
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Pomp and pageantry aside, gloves can be the finishing touch to a dazzling evening gown. But that doesn’t mean jeans and a tee should be vetoed entirely
Clockwise From Left: Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Bora Aksu, Altuzarra, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Ryan Lo
the accessory of ss18
GLOVE AFFAIR PART OF THE INSIGNIA OF POWERFUL KINGS AND QUEENS, GLOVES HAVE REACHED THEIR GREATEST ELABORATION THIS SEASON, ADORNING ARMS AND SETTING THE SIDE PROFILE SCENE FOR A BOUNTY OF PRIM AND PROPER LOOKS
It wasn’t until Queen Elizabeth I set the trend for wearing richly embroidered and bejewelled gloves, putting them on and taking them off to draw attention to her delicate hands, that this accessory really reached its sartorial potential. Those days are long gone, but the pageantry still captured the fascination of MARC JACOBS and Raf Simons at CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, while RYAN LO looked a little further forward to the Edwardian era to create gloves frothed with tiers of fantasy ruffles. Jacobs used them as a palette cleanser to his hyper-vivid kaftans, as well as a layer beneath Big Bird feathered sleeves. Simons took a more minimal and rather clinical approach, outfitting his muse with rubberised gloves - the kind seen on Patrick Bateman (aka American Psycho) - authenticated with ‘made by’ descriptions. CHRISTOPHER KANE thought along similar lines, though his view was more ergonomic via a reimagining of rubber marigolds, rendered instead from glossy vinyl and paired with a bustier dress evocative of a sink brush. The cropped glove silhouette made its way onto the CHANEL waterfall runway as a half-hybrid fingerless sleeve created out of ‘CC’ detailed Perspex and backed with futuristic PVC.
Above: Queen Elizabeth I / Top: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC