360 Oslo Airport Magazine (no. 21): The Direct Edition

O s lo Ai rpo r t m aga zi n e n o 2 1 • m a r c h /a pr il 2 01 4

>>> FROM THE SEA Fishing in the Lofoten Islands > THE TRAVELLER Hege Moe Eriksen > McDADDY'S Dad's fast food cooking > OSLO GUIDE > SHOPPING > APPS

Gratis Free

26 CALIFORNIA 40 Gdańsk A roadtrip between LA and San Francisco.

A great guide to the historic Polish city.

50 ZÜRICH

An ode to Swiss q ­ uality and efficiency.

Klaveness - når dine føtter får velge!

Klaveness Skofabrikk ble etablert

av Dagfinn Klaveness i 1957. Den

visjonære gründeren hadde et mål

om å ”lage skotøy som føttene selv

ville velge - fottøy med perfekt

passform - gode, brede lester og topp kvalitet”.

Dette er grunnidéen som fremdeles etterleves og

sikrer at våre produkter alltid holder det de lover.

Klaveness Skofabrikk AS | Postboks 2034, N-3202 Sandefjord | www.klaveness.no

140604 © KERN DESIGN

Vårens nyheter fra Klaveness!

14136

14139

14137

AJ Products – your workplace products supplier The AJ Group is made up of 26 companies in 19 European countries. Our head office and central warehouse are located on the west coast of Sweden.

As a group we manufacture many of the products that you will find in our product selection. Not only does this mean that we can offer you competitive prices but it also helps us to maintain our quality levels and lead times.

The AJ Group has over 35 years of experience in delivering quality products at the right price. This makes us a company that you can trust for all your office furniture, material handling and storage needs.

Tlf: 67 02 42 00

www.ajprodukter.no

PARKERE NÆRMEST MULIG? ELLER VELDIG BILLIG? P-hus P10 ligger vegg-i-vegg med Terminalen på Oslo Lufthavn. Det finnes ingen parkering hvor du kommer nærmere. Man kan gå tørrskodd via kulverter. Praktisk på forretningsreiser, når man har mye bagasje eller barn med på tur eller vil unngå regn, snø og is!

Utendørs finnes p-områder med konkurransedyktige priser! Det kjøres gratis shuttlebusser jevnlig hele døgnet. Bussene er merket med EuroPark og OSL. Holdeplassene finnes rett utenfor Terminalen og på et eller flere steder på ditt valgte p-område.

Forhåndsbestiller du parkeringen kan du spare noen kroner ekstra. Følg med for sesongens kampanjetilbud i P10, eller vår faste lave pris utendørs! For å bestille benyttes Online Booking på www.europark.no eller www.osl.no.

THe DIrecT eDITIon I

EDITOR­IN­cHIEF eivind eidslott eivind@dinamo.no

cOME FROM A SMALL TOWN, but there the nature is huge. i come from a place on the western coast of norway, where the mountains and the sea both compete for your attention; where the light is like a watercolour and the weather is like a symphony composed by ludwig van Beethoven.

Strong winds are normal. a storm isn’t even worthy of note. i come from a place that is always with me. i come from a place that sticks to my soul like glue. i can travel; i can live far away, yet my birthplace pops up every day, in small flashes, in lingering dreams. it’s not really homesickness. it’s not really nostalgia. it’s more like a foothold in life, a lighthouse beacon, a signal fire on the tundra. is it the same for you?

Sometimes i just have to go home. my whole body feels it. Sometimes i just have to see the house i grew up in, the fjords i fished, the mountains i climbed, and my parents and grandparents. i don’t have time to catch a train. i don’t have time to drive. i have to get there as fast as i can.

There is a flight home. right now. non-stop. i fly as direct as can be.

Straight back to my roots.

THe eDITor

J

EG kOMMER FRA EN LITEN PLASS, men naturen der er stor.

Jeg kommer fra et sted langt mot vest, der havet og fjellene slåss om oppmerksomheten, og lyset er en akvarell, og været er en symfoni av ludwig van Beethoven. liten kuling er normalen. ingen reagerer på storm, heller.

Jeg kommer fra et sted som alltid er med meg. Jeg kommer fra et sted som fester seg i sjelen. Jeg kan reise, jeg kan flytte, jeg kan bosette meg langt unna – men fødebyen min dukker opp hver dag, i små glimt, i lange drømmer.

Det er ikke nødvendigvis hjemlengsel.

Det er ikke nostalgi. Det er nok mer et holdepunkt, et fyrtårn, et bål på tundraen. har du det slik, du også? noen ganger må jeg bare hjem.

Jeg kjenner det i hele kroppen. noen ganger må jeg se huset der jeg vokste opp, og fjordene jeg fisket i, og fjellene jeg klatret, og mine foreldre, og mine besteforeldre. Jeg har ikke tid til å ta toget. Jeg har ikke tid til å kjøre bil. Jeg må hjem så raskt som mulig.

Det går et fly hjem. ingen mellomlandinger. Jeg flyr direkte.

Direkte tilbake til røttene mine.

contributors

MARTE GARMANN Marte Garmann is an Oslo-based photographer working on a range of assignments. She also started her own publishing house, Garmann Forlag, to produce cookbooks, among other items.

PATRIck kATZMAN Patrick Katzman was born in California, and got his start in photography documenting surfers in Hawaii. Then he shot fashion in Paris for over 10 years, fell in love and moved to Oslo.

SILJE kATHRINE SVIGGUM Silje Kathrine Sviggum is a LA-based features writer. She contributes to Norway’s biggest newspapers and magazines and tends to take the road less travelled.

kRISTIAN RIDDER­NILSEN Freelance photographer Kristian Ridder-Nilsen is based in Copenhagen.

He covers Denmark for Norwegian newspapers and magazines, and most fondly his hometown Oslo for 360.

360 / oSlo airporT maGaZinE

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THe DIrecT eDITIon

THe cover

360

oslo aIrporT magazIne nO 21 • march/april 2014

360 challenges artists and illustrators to create a cover picture for each issue. 360 utfordrer i hver utgave kunstnere og illustratører til å lage coverbildet.

360 is published by oslo airport Contact OSL: METTE SHETELIG mette.shetelig@osl.no

THE ARTIST PHoto PRIVATE

Managing director Oslo Airport: NIC NILSEN editor-in-chief EIVIND EIDSLOTT eivind@dinamo.no Design & production DINAMO MAGAZINE 360@dinamo.no

MISO (STANISLAVA PINcHUk) is a 25-year-old

Ukrainian artist, tattooist & illustrator. She now lives in both Melbourne and Tokyo.

THE WORK

"All my work lately has been about making maps of my travels, rendered in pinpricked artworks, tattoos and illustrations. It’s nice to make something physical out of all these ephemeral experiences, and then to send it out again to galleries and homes all around the world".

THE COVER

"I made this piece after seeing the fireworks for Chinese New Year from my studio window in Melbourne. All the lights and colours were so beautiful, exploding in all directions in the sky…but they disappeared so quickly too.

I thought they would look beautiful stitched in bright, sparkling threads, right in the moment of explosion".

editorial team PETTER HERMING øIVIND WINGE GAUTE GJøL DAHLE FREDRIK ÖHLANDER SARAH WILLOCH EMMA OLSEN NETTAN STUBBERUD JENS SKOUG OBEL

MISO (STANISLAVA PINcHUk) er en 25 år

gammel kunstner, tattoveringsartist og illustratør.

Hun er opprinnelig ukrainsk, men deler nå tiden sin mellom melbourne og tokyo.

Translator DOUG MELLGREN copy editors MARTE MESNA YASHA WALLIN

tHE Work

arbeid mitt den siste tiden har gått ut på å lage kart av reisene mine, gjengitt i hull-prikkede kunstverk, tatoveringer og illustrasjoner. Det er hyggelig å gjøre noe fysisk ut av alle disse flyktige opplevelsene, for deretter å sende dette ut igjen til gallerier og hjem over hele verden.

repro DINAMO print Kroonpress AS e-mail 360@dinamo.no Web 360magazine.no

tHE coVEr

advertising: DG MEDIA Sales Manager: SIRI DANIELSEN tel +47 95 17 50 25 sd@dgmedia.no

Jeg laget dette etter å ha sett fyrverkeriet ved den kinesiske nyttårsfeiringen fra studiovinduet mitt i melbourne. alle lysene og fargene var så vakre – idet de eksploderte i alle retninger. men de forsvant så raskt, også. Jeg tenkte at de ville se vakre ut – som lyse, glitrende tråder – akkurat som i eksplosjonsøyeblikket.

Coordinator: SOLVEIG ENGER tel +47 99 23 41 40 se@dgmedia.no Send advertisements to: post@dgmedia.no Reservations are made for misprints and changes.

OslO AirpOrt mAgAzine no 21 • march/april 2014

>>> FROM THE SEA Fishing in the lofoten islands > THE TRAVELLER hege moe Eriksen > McDADDY'S Dad's fast food cooking > OSLO GUIDE > SHOPPING > APPS

Gratis Free

OTHER WORK BY MISO 26 cALIFORNIA 40 GDAńSk A roadtrip between la and San Francisco.

A great guide to the historic polish city.

360 is published by Dinamo Magazine. The contents of this magazine are fully protected and nothing can be reprinted or reproduced without the expressed permission of the publishers. Special care is taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we assume no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. The publisher does not accept liability for any content used by advertisers in this edition.

50 ZÜRIcH

An ode to Swiss quality and efficiency.

OSL does not necessarily share the opinions expressed in 360 Magazine.

ISSN 1892-3976

M

moon (kHarkoV) (pinpricKS on papEr)

8

HorsE EYEs (pEncil on papEr)

360 / oSlo airporT maGaZinE

maP oF tHE nYc HiGH LinE From mEmorY (homEmaDE TaTToo)

Ø M E R KE ILJ T

541-004 TRYKKSAK

Elegance is an attitude Aksel Lund Svindal

THUNE.NO 810 0 1857

HydroConquest

Table of contents Go to

18

40

60

Gate 1

Gate 2

Gate 3

Imagination

Inspiration

Destination Oslo

Destination Norway

The direct mystery: The moving stones of Death Valley................................. 14

10 best: Non-stop routes from Oslo Airport ........................

What´s on ....................................... 58

News ..................................................... 66

City culture .................................... 60

Hope hangs by a thread: Fishing outside the Lofoten Islands ............................ 68

Direct to Noah's Ark: The Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle in Paris.................................................... 16 Direct movement: The glaciers of Switzerland............. 18

24

The wave hunters: Roadtrip along California's Pacific Coast Highway ............................. 26 The traveller: Foreign Correspondent Hege Moe Eriksen ..................... 36 City secrets: Gdańsk ............ 40 GO!: The world´s shortest flight ................................ 48 Swiss quality: An ode to Zürich .......................... 50 Travel apps .................................... 54

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City living: The concept clothing store ................................ 62 Food: The great restaurant Oslo Spiseforretning................ 64

GO! The arctic tour .................... 74 Bohemian Bergen: City secrets ...................................... 76

Photo PATRICK KATZMAN

84

95

110

130

Gate 4

Gate 5

Gate 6

Gate 7

Aviation

Visualization

Temptation

Information

Eye transfer: The history of the Polaroid Camera ......................... 95

McDaddy´s: Dad´s own fast food cooking ...................... 110

News ..................................................

News .....................................................

82

The non-stop success: Direct routes................................... 84 GO! The world´s longest flights ............................... 90 Three hours: Paris airport .......................................... 92

Wine: Gert Nygårdshaug ................... 118 Shopping: Directly at OSL............................ 120

128

GO! Fly south .......................................... 130 Yellow pages: OSL.......................................................

132

Afterword: Joachim Førsund..................... 138

360 / OSLO AIRPORT MAGAZINE

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Sikre din perfekte reise i dag og betal kun et lite depositum.

Planlegger du å reise, men har ikke råd til å kjøpe billettene enda?

På mange av våre reiser kan du sikre deg de billigste reisene mot et lite depositum og så betaler du resten senere.

Fly Oslo – Bangkok – Hanoi // Phnom Penh – Saigon – Oslo Pris fra kr.

8.500,-

Betal kun kr 1000,- og resten 4 uker før avreise

Fly Oslo – Dubai – Bangkok – Sydney – Auckland – Los Angeles - Oslo Pris fra kr.

12.950,-

Betal kun kr 2000,- og resten 4 uker før avreise

KONTAKT OSS FOR TILBUD Gjelder for student, ungdom og lærer fram til 30.04.14. Depositum varierer fra hver enkelt bestilling.

LEs mere her 23 31 61 00

facebook.com/STATravelNorge www.statravel.no

Planlegger du en reise til Australia bør du se hva vi har å tilby i South Australia, Victoria og Northern Territory. Her finner du alt fra en fantastisk kystlinje, et rikt dyreliv, vakker natur og eventyrlige outbackopplevelser.

South Australia og Victoria i bobil - 14 dager Australia er et land som er utmerket å reise rundt i med bobil. Veiene er bra og campingplassene minner mest om resorter med basseng og all annen mulig komfort. I dette reiseforslaget har vi kombinert bobil fra Melbourne til Adelaide med noen dager på hotell.

Pris per person når to reiser sammen: Fra kr.

15.500,-

Adelaide i kombinasjon med naturopplevelser i Northern Territory Denne reisen tar deg fra sør til nord til sør og har fokus på naturopplevelser, aboriginsk kultur og livets goder som besøk i det velkjente vindistriktet Barossa Valley.

Pris per person når to reiser sammen: Fra kr.

27.000,-

Det beste av South Australia, Victoria og Northern Territory - 21 dager Opplev det beste av delstatene South Australia, Victoria og Northern Territory.

I dette reiseforslaget har vi fokusert på bobil i kombinasjon med guidede turer og hotellovernattinger, for de beste naturopplevelsene i disse områdene.

I turen inngår et besøk i det kjente vindistriktet Barossa Valley.

Pris per person når dere reiser sammen: Fra kr.

32.000,-

Telefon: 23 31 77 00 www.australiareiser.no

g 2 1

Hovedsak hovedsak ImagInaTIon The direct edition

THe DIrecT mysTery california, usa You find these large stones deep in california's Death Valley national park – and it has long been a great mystery how they move. now, researchers report that it's due to the wintry combination of ice underneath the rocks, a smooth soil surface and blowing winds. But as one of the park rangers says: people don't really listen to this explanation. They would rather keep this phenomenon a mystery.

Disse store steinene ligger langt inne i californias Death Valley national Park – og det har lenge vært et stort mysterium hvordan de flytter på seg. nå mener forskere at det handler om den vinterlige kombinasjonen is under steinene, glatt jordoverflate og vind. men som en av parkvokterne sier: – Folk vil egentlig ikke høre på denne forklaringen. De vil heller at dette fenomenet skal forbli et mysterium.

pHoTo stuckincustoms.com

››› nps.gov/deva

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Hovedsak IMAGINATION The direct edition

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Photo stuckincustoms.com

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THe DIrecT Way To noaH's arK paris, france paris has many famous attractions – so many that it can be difficult to see them all.

We would gladly recommend muséum national d'histoire naturelle – a phenomenal natural history museum with unparalleled exhibitions. For example, this exhibition shows all the animals before they board the noah's ark.

Paris har mange kjente severdigheter – så mange at det kan være vanskelig å rekke over alle. Vi vil gjerne anbefale muséum national d'Histoire naturelle – et fenomenalt naturhistorisk museum med storslåtte utstillinger. For eksempel denne – som viser dyrene som vil ombord i noas ark. ››› mnhn.fr

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Hovedsak ImagInaTIon The direct edition

DIrecT movemenT switzerland Glaciers move slowly, shaping the landscape in their path. They are simply a fascinating sight.

To capture this Swiss glacier´s unique colors, photographer Trey ratcliff went out in unfavorable conditions: it was raining, windy and cold. But he managed to photograph the color contrasts, to say the least.

Breene beveger seg sakte, sakte og former landskapet på sin vei. De er rett og slett et fascinerende skue. For å fange denne sveitsiske breens unike farger gikk fotografen ut i dårlig vær: Det regnet, det var kaldt, det blåste. men han fikk fram fargekontrastene, for å si det mildt.

pHoTo stuckincustoms.com

››› swisseduc.ch/glaciers

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For Norge ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Sverige ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Danmark ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Finland ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Tsjekkia ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Polen ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Estland ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Holland ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Tyskland ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Østerrike ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

NYHET!

For Ungarn ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Frankrike ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Italia ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Spania ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

For Slovakia ring: Raymond Søderberg 33 74 45 00

Nå kan du snakke norsk i enda flere land Om du velger Alektum Inkasso som din inkassopartner i hele Europa.

Hos oss får du en og samme kontaktperson uansett hvilket land du er i.

Du får også all kommunikasjon, statistikk og rapporter på det språk du ønsker.

Kan det bli enklere?

Siden 2010 er vi i ytterligere ett land, Spania. Det vil si at du har tilgang til Alektum Inkasso i hele femten europeiske land. Vi innkasserer dine fordringer med samme høye kvalitet og løsningsgrad som her hjemme, men tilpasser våre tjenester til ditt lokale marked.

Kontakt Raymond Søderberg eller noen andre av våre medarbeidere på 33 74 45 00 for å diskutere dine inkassobehov allerede i dag. Vi svarer på norsk. Garantert.

Pengene tilbake. Og kunden. www.alektum.com

LE

U

HI

ÅPNER SNART I STAVANGER

boligdrøm KOM TIL OSS MED DIN BOLIGDRØM

Vi jobber høyt og lavt for at din drøm skal bli til virkelighet!

En ny bolig fra JM har mange fordeler – for eksempel:

• Lav energiregning. Våre boliger er 25% bedre enn myndighetenes energikrav (TEK10) Vi jobber høyt og lavt for at din drøm skal bli til virkelighet!

• Lave månedskostnader + svært lite vedlikeholdsarbeid = penger til overs og mer fritid.

• Høy trivselsfaktor, funksjonelle og smarte løsninger.

En ny bolig fra JM har mange fordeler – for eksempel: • Lav Våre er 25% bedre ennBl.a. myndighetenes energikrav (TEK10) Høyenergiregning. kvalitet med JMboliger Original innredning. er hvitevarer på kjøkken alltid inkludert.

•• Våre Lave månedskostnader + svært lite vedlikeholdsarbeid = penger til overs og mer fritid. dyktige innredningskonsulenter veileder og gir gode råd ved ønsker om tilpasninger.

• Høy trivselsfaktor, funksjonelle og smarte løsninger.

• Hele tilvalgsprosessen skjer i våre utstillingslokaler – hyggelig og null stress.

• Høy kvalitet med JM Original innredning. Bl.a. er hvitevarer på kjøkken alltid inkludert.

•Velkommen Våre dyktigehjem! innredningskonsulenter veileder og gir gode råd ved ønsker om tilpasninger.

Last ned JMs nye boligapp

Les mer last ned om Jmsalle nyefordelene boligapp med en ny JM-bolig på jm.no

Les mer om alle fordelene med en ny Jm-bolig på jm.no

Idé & design: lemon.no Foto: Billy Bonkers

Idé & design: lemon.no Foto: Billy Bonkers

Kom til oss med diN

g a T e 2

InspIraTIon

PLAcES YOU SHOULD GO AND THINGS YOU SHOULD kNOW >>> 26 tHE WaVE HuntErs > 36 tHE traVELLEr > 40 GDaŃsk

FLORIDA, USA

DIREcT TO FLORIDA Do you want the sun and a beach? Do you long to sit under a palm tree and watch the sunset?

Do you dream of an average temperature of over 18 degrees, every month, year round ? Then you will enjoy norwegian's new non-stop route from oslo airport to Fort lauderdale in Florida.

From 29 may they also offer a non-stop route to orlando. Ønsker du sol og strender?

Lengter du etter å sitte under en palme og se på solnedgangen? Drømmer du om en gjennomsnittstemperatur på over 18 grader, hver måned, året rundt? Da kan du glede deg over norwegians nye direkterute fra oslo Lufthavn til Fort Lauderdale i Florida. Fra 29 mai flyr de deg også direkte til orlando.

PHoto NTB SCANPIx / CORBIS

››› norwegian.no

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InspIraTIon 10 best

10

MOST POPULAR NON­STOP ROUTES FROM OSLO AIRPORT (AND SOME GREAT REASONS TO GO TO THESE DESTINATIONS YOURSELF) TexT EiVinD EiDSloTT pHoTos corBiS/nTB ScanpiX & ThinKSTocK

1. cOPENHAGEN 1,320,824 PASSENGERS FROM OSLO AIRPORT IN 2013 The three most famous attractions in copenhagen are the amusement park Tivoli Gardens, the statue of The little mermaid and the freetown of christiania. But copenhagen has a lot more to offer. With a history that dates back to 1043, the city is full of historic landmarks, significant buildings and brilliant sights.

De tre mest kjente attraksjonene i københavn er tivoli, statuen av Den lille havfrue og fristaden christiania. men københavn har mye mer å tilby. med en historie som går tilbake til 1043 er byen er full av historiske landemerker, storslåtte bygninger og strålende severdigheter. >>> visitcopenhagen.com

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2. STOCKHOLM 1,205,324 passengers

cruise around. Only then do you realise how great this city is.

Kanaler? Blomster?

Hyggelige­ spisesteder? ­Absolutt. Men for å virkelig oppleve Amsterdam, bør du leie en sykkel og bare cruise rundt. Først da skjønner du hvor bra denne byen er.

How should you experience Stockholm? On foot. You should follow the waterfront and by all means do not miss the bridge over to Skeppsholmen. Bring a camera – so you can take a real Stockholm selfie.

Hvordan bør du oppleve Stockholm? Til fots. Du bør følge vannkanten og for all del ikke gå glipp av broen over til Skeppsholmen. Ta med et kamera – slik at du kan ta et ekte Stockholms-selfie. >>> visitstockholm.com 3. London 1,010,121 passengers “When a man is tired of ­ ondon, he is tired of life; for L there is in London all that life can afford,” wrote the author Samuel Johnson. He´s right, isn´t he?

«Når en mann er trøtt av London, er han trøtt av livet, for i London finnes alt livet har å by på» skrev den engelske forfatteren Samuel Johnson.

Han har så rett, så rett. >>> visitlondon.com 4. Amsterdam 599,691,passengers Channels? Flowers? Pleasant dining? Certainly. But to really experience Amsterdam, you should hire a bike and just

When you think of Frankfurt, it is easy to think of the airport and all the connections you've had there. But take a trip into the city and enjoy one of Europe's most impressive skylines. You will not regret it.

Når du tenker på Frankfurt, er det lett å tenke på flyplassen og alle mellomlandingene du har gjort der. Men ta en tur inn til selve byen og nyt en av Europas mest imponerende skylines. Du vil ikke angre. >>> frankfurt.de 7. Berlin 380,306 passengers

>>> iamsterdam.com 5. Paris 405,311 passengers “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast,” wrote Ernest Hemingway­. We couldn´t agree more.

«Hvis du er heldig nok til å ha bodd i Paris som en ung mann, så vil Paris, uansett hvor du reiser, være med deg. For Paris er en bevegelig høytid, skrev Ernest Hemingway. Vi kunne ikke vært mer enig. >>> parisinfo.com 6. Frankfurt 403,259 passengers

"Ich bin ein Berliner," said John F. Kennedy. After a weekend in Berlin there is a high chance that you will say exactly the same. The city falls instantly into favour.

«Ich bin ein Berliner», sa John F. Kennedy. Etter en helg i Berlin er det stor sjanse for at du vil si nøyaktig det samme.

Denne byen faller umiddelbart i smak.

9. Gran Canaria 339,187 passengers Gran Canaria is one of Europe's most popular holiday destinations. Here, young and old find what they are looking for: sun and beaches. Do you really need more?

Gran Canaria er en av ­Europas mest populære feriedestinasjoner. Her finner store og små det de er ute etter: sol og strender. Trenger man egentlig mer? >>> grancanaria.com 10. Munich 306,544 passengers

>>> visitberlin.de 8. Helsinki 361,827 passengers Discover Helsinki's many ­ ecrets using the local blogs gers' own tips and advice.

Simply go to the web address below.

Oppdag Helsinkis mange hemmeligheter ved å bruke de lokale bloggernes egne tips og råd. Det er bare å gå inn på denne adressen: >>>visithelsinki.fi/en/ spottedbylocals

Many travel to England to see great football matches. But why not see what is possibly the world's best soccer team right now – Bayern Munich – in action?

Mange reiser til England for å se store fotballkamper.

Men hvorfor ikke se det som muligens er verdens beste fotballag – Bayern München – i aksjon? >>> fcbayern.de

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Inspiration Roadtrip

Pleasure Point. Popular local surfer spot in Santa Cruz. Great place for power walking, jogging and bicycling too.

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The wave hunters Text SILJE KATHRINE SVIGGUM photos PATRICK KATZMAN

Along the legendary Pacific Coast Highway in California, you can surf the best wave without ever getting your feet wet.

Langs legendariske Pacific Coast Highway i California kan du surfe på de beste bølgene. Tørrskodd.

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Roadtrip

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2

(1) Surf’s up: Always a beach to find, always a wave to catch. (2) Ocean man. Surfing is meditation for LA-born Jeff Stephens, 45. He believes life would have hit him harder without it.

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between Los Angeles and San Francisco is like one long photo opportunity: leaping into the air with spread legs and a big smile; tourists teetering on cliffs above the Pacific Ocean; point-and-shoot, hop back in the car and hit the gas. For LA-born Stephens, the road is a symbol of life and death. For 25 years, the sea has held him in the recovery position, at least mentally. All of life’s dramas vanish when he surfs and thinking too much while on his board only makes him lose his balance.

“Surfing takes away all the negative. It's like meditation. If you catch the wave, it gives you goose bumps. It still happens to me,” says Stephens.

His life has had its storms: drugs, suicide, robbery. His stepfather was German Jewish and came alone to the ­United States in search of his mother. At age 17, he went to fight in V ­ ietnam. Most of his unit was killed. Stephens’ stepfather was so guilt-ridden about surviving that he shot

KYSTVEIEN mellom Los Angeles og San Francisco kan være

ometimes he skips work to go ride the waves: He just leaves, or doesn’t even show up. He’s not the best, but when the ocean calls, 45-year-old Jeff Stephens responds. Digitisation made his former occupation – a film technician – obsolete, but as long as he has enough work painting houses and can surf at Leo Carrillo State Beach in Malibu, Stephens is happy: “All the people I know who hit bad times didn’t surf.”

THE COASTAL HIGHWAY

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et hender han går fra jobben for å kunne ri på ­ ølgene. Reiser seg og går. Eller aldri drar inn. Han b er ikke den beste der ute, men når havet kaller, er Jeff Stephens (45) klar. Digitaliseringen av filmbransjen har gjort den tidligere filmtekninkeren overflødig, men så lenge han har arbeid med å male hus og kan surfe på Leo Carrillo State Beach i Malibu, er Jeff lykkelig: – De jeg kjenner som det gikk ille med, surfet ikke.

en selfie. Splitthoppende, med smilende fjes. T ­urister som balanserer på klipper over Stillehavet. Peker, k ­ likker, setter seg inn i leiebilen og gir gass. For L.A.-fødte Jeff representerer­veien liv og død. I 25 år har havet holdt ham mentalt i stabilt sideleie. Når han surfer, forsvinner alt ­drama i livet. Tenker han samtidig, mister han balansen.

– Surfing tar bort alt negativt. Det er som meditasjon for meg. Om du treffer bølgen, gir det deg gåsehud. Det skjer fremdeles for meg, sier Jeff.

Det har stormet nok. Narkotika, selvmord, ran. Stefaren var en foreldreløs, jødisk tysker som kom til USA for å finne moren sin. 17 år gammel dro han i Vietnamkrigen. Bare et par i troppen hans overlevde. Skyldfølelsen for å ha overlevd fikk Jeffs stefar til å sette en kule i sitt eget hode. K ­ ulen gikk fra hjernen til brystet. Legene kalte det et perfekt skudd.

Skygger glir over Jeffs ellers muntre øyne.

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(3) The beach. Leo Carrillo State Beach in Malibu. (4) Gone with the wind. Waddle Beach by Big Basin Redwood State Park is often windy and perfect for kite surfing.

(5) Wildlife in Big Sur. This deer passed the beautiful, heated outdoor pool at the five star hotel Post Ranch Inn.

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Bixby Creek Bridge. The most famous bridge on Pacific Coast Highway and one of the most photographed spots. Prior to the opening in 1932 residents of Big Sur were cut off during winter due to the often impassable road further inland.

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For me, Highway 1 is old school California: Cadillacs and nostalgia, sandwiches on the beach, peace of mind.

For meg er Highway 1 old school Cali­fornia.

Cadillac-biler og nostalgi.

Sandwicher på stranden.

Et fredelig sinn.

Norah Eldredge, manager at the french press

Norah Eldredge, manager hos the French Press

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himself. The ­bullet went from his brain into his chest. The doctors called it a perfect shot.

Stephens’ o ­therwise bright eyes darken when he talks about it.

“He was such a good man. He taught me so much. But he didn’t surf. There 's something about nature. I am not a good surfer, but I'm going to do this until the end,” says Stephens.

– Han var så bra. Han lærte meg så mye.

Men han surfet ikke. Det er noe med naturen.­ Jeg er ingen god surfer, men jeg kommer til å gjøre dette til livet ender.

SUCCESS AND TRAGEDY keep close c ­ ompany

in Malibu. Actor, sex symbol and ‘80s idol Rob Lowe grew up by Point Dume. In his autobiography, “Stories I Only Tell My ­ Friends” (2012) Lowe describes a society in which rich men’s sons kill themselves behind the wheel of overpowered birthday presents, or live behind a façade of luxury that hides the absence of workaholic parents and their own youthful experiments. The Malibu-lifestyle is the basis for Lowe’s upcoming tele­ vision series, “The Point.”

At Malibu Country Mart, our first stop ­after we set off from Venice, child model Jade Rose Nelson, 8, and her decorator mom Lisa Robyn Deutsch see the brighter side.

To them, Malibu is crimson sunsets, deer in the garden and a casual ‘chic’ style that most fashion-conscious girls here master.

“People think it's expensive to live here, but you can find nice, affordable places every­ where. There are always pockets ­between all the wealth: guesthouses, cottages or a tiny apartment,” says Deutsch.

We drive north towards Oxnard where farming, military bases, old cars and vintage neon signs fill the horizon until the ocean emerges again. Santa Barbara Mission is closed for ­renovation, but luckily the restaurant State & Fig in downtown Santa Barbara is open.

Lunch turns into a journey through a delicious ‘landscape’ of tastes. At The French Press, ­manager Norah Eldredge, of N ­ orwegian descent, serves coffee and childhood memories.

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SUKSESS OG TRAGEDIE har alltid pustet hverandre i nakken i Malibu. Skuespilleren, sexsymbolet og 80-talls idolet Rob Lowe vokste­ opp ved Point Dume. I selvbiografien­­«Stories I Only Tell My Friends» (2012) skildrer­Lowe et samfunn der rikmanns­unger ­kjører seg i hjel i altfor raske bursdags­gaver og luksushusfasadene ­ skjuler fraværende karriere­ foreldre og eksperi­menterende­barn. Malibu-­ livet er utgangspunkt for hans ­kommende tv-serie «The Point».

På Malibu Country Mart, vårt første stopp fra vi starter turen i Venice lenger sør i L.A., ser barnemodell Jade Rose Nelson (8) og h ­ ennes dekoratørmamma Lisa Robyn Deutsch ­lysere på tilværelsen. For dem betyr Malibu ­rødmende solnedganger, rådyrbesøk i hagen og casual chic-stilen som de mest mote­riktige jentene her behersker til fingerspissene.

– Folk tror det er dyrt å bo her, men du kan finne fine, overkommelige steder. Det ­finnes alltid lommer mellom all rikdommen: Gjeste­ hus, hytter eller en liten leilighet, ­tipser Lisa.

Vi kjører nordover mot Oxnard der jordbruk, militærbase, gamle biler og vintage ­neonskilt dominerer til havet dukker frem igjen.

Santa Barbara Mission er under oppussing­ og stengt, men restauranten State & Fig i downtown Santa Barbara er heldigvis åpen.

Lunsjen her blir en av reisens beste smaksopplevelser. Like ypperlig er kaffe­ baren The French Press der den norsk­­ æt­ tede manageren­Norah Eldredge serverer kaffe og barndomsminner.

– For meg er Highway 1 old school ­Cali­fornia­. Cadillac-biler og nostalgi. Sandwicher på stranden. Et fredelig sinn, sier ­Norah.

Facts The best of the Pacific Coast Highway between Los Angeles and San Francisco: Venice Beach: LA's most eclectic neighbourhood hugs the Pacific. Muscle Beach is where Arnold Schwarzenegger laid the foundation for his film career. Hipster street Abbot Kinney Boulevard offers fun shopping and great dining.

Malibu: A star-studded town with lingering pockets of old hippy spirit. Excellent surfing beaches.

Hearst Castle: The palace of the late newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst is as sumptuous as it is over­ whelming. A visit is relatively time consuming since you can only see the castle on guided tours.

Big Sur: The most beautiful and wildest stretch of the trip. One of the world 's finest driving experiences. Winding roads and stunning scenery.

Santa Cruz: California's answer to New York's Coney Island, the latter often called “the poor man's paradise.” Lovely kitschy boardwalk and fine surfing opportunities. Ask locals for pointers.

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(1) Collector’s haven. Preston’s Antiques & Collectables in Cambria, one of the many vintage shops in town. (2) Freedom fighter. Student and former soldier Chris Roots, 28, lives in his van, surfs and dreams of a life in Alaska. (3) Morro Rock. It is forbidden by law to climb this gigantic volcanic plug. But

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“For me, Highway 1 is old school California: Cadillacs and nostalgia, sandwiches on the beac, peace of mind,” Eldredge says.

SINNSRO HAR OGSÅ

PEACE OF MIND is also something green-eyed Chris Roots, 28, finds at a rest area before heading up the hill to the heavily Danish town of Solvang in his home on wheels, a 1972 Dodge van called “Surf 'n Loaf.” The San Diego-based engineering student is heading to Oregon for Christmas. He works ­summers as a guide in Alaska. The rest of the year, the former U.S. Marine tries to stay calm when the police pound on the van’s door late a night. He has learned that he doesn’t want to be a soldier. Or an engineer. Roots is an man of nature.

“Surfing makes me feel small. The waves put you in your place in a global context,” he says.

We say goodbye and move on. We stop briefly in Solvang, where the store “Jule Hus” (Danish/Norwegian for ­Christmas House) is full of Christmas decorations all year and the staff asks us to have the Norwegian manufacturer of rubber-faced elves get in touch. Customers want this Scandinavian version of Santa Claus and they haven’t heard from the supplier. We promise to pass on the message and head towards a motel bed in San Luis Obispo.

above Morro Bay Rock the next morning.

Only the local Native American tribe is allowed to climb

FALCONS CIRCLE

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grønnøyde Chris Roots (28) på en r­asteplass før oppstigingen til den danskdominerte små­ byen Solvang. Med sitt rullende hjem «Surf ’N Loaf», en Dodge van fra 1972, har den San Diego-baserte ingeniør­ studenten kursen mot juleferie i Oregon. Om sommeren jobber han som guide i Alaska. Resten av året prøver den tidligere marinesoldaten å beholde roen når politiet dundrer på bildøra midt på natta. Det viktigste han har lært i livet er at han ikke vil være soldat. Eller ingeniør. Chris er naturens mann: – Surfing får meg til å føle meg liten. Bølgene setter deg på plass i en global sammenheng Vi hilser farvel og kjører videre. Sveiper innom Solvang der butikken Jule Hus er proppfull av julepynt året rundt og de ansatte lurer på om vi kan få den norske produsenten av julenisser med gummiansikt til å melde seg. Kundene etterspør nissene, men leverandøren gir ikke lyd fra seg. Vi lover, og ruller videre mot en motellseng i San Luis Obispo.

FALKENE SIRKLER rundt Morro Bay Rock neste morgen.

Bare den lokale indianerstammen har lov til å klatre på den kolossale steinen som deler stranden i Morro Bay. På idylliske Top Dog Coffee smaker en hjemmelagd panini med egg og grønnkål helse, mens en ikke like sunn brownie må være tidenes beste.

Ville vesten begynner å feste grepet nå. I søvnige, lil-

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anyone can enjoy her beauty. (4) Traveller. According to former sprinter Junta, 28, from Okasaki, he used to be a beast. Now he is all about music and love.

(5) Folk singers. Shiho Omasa, 30, and her friend Yuriko Mukamoto, 26, left fashion careers in Japan to become travellers.

le Harmony med bare 18 innbyggere er det vanskelig å forestille­seg at en farmer ble skutt og drept under en feide i 1869. Våpenhvile ble innført samtidig som bynavnet. Nabo­ byen Cambria er livligere. Vintagebutikker og antikvitetsforretninger dominerer bybildet. I Preston’s Antiques & Collectables er eier Larry Preston (62) i ferd med å åpne for dagen. For fem år siden kollapset den ene lungen og spise­ røret. Hjernesvulster har han levd med siden 1990. Men Larry er reddere for hukommelsen. Han har hastverk. Han vil selge forretningen. Larry tror han vil få Alzheimers som moren og mormoren – Jeg vil ha livet tilbake, bygge fuglekasser og tegne. Livet er for kort.

the colossal rock dividing the beach in Morro Bay. At idyllic Top Dog Coffee, a panini with eggs and kale tastes like pure health, while the not-quite-as healthy brownies taste like pure heaven.

It’s more ‘Wild West’ here. In the sleepy hamlet of ­Harmony (population: 18), it’s hard to imagine a farmer being shot and killed here in an 1869 feud. A ceasefire took effect at the same time as the town’s name, Harmony,­ was adopted. Neighbouring Cambria is livelier, with ­vintage stores and antique shops. At Preston's Antiques & ­Collectables, proprietor Larry Preston, 62, is opening his shop. Five years ago, one of his lungs and his oesophagus­ collapsed. He has lived with brain tumours since 1990, but what worries Preston most is his memory. He wants to sell the store right away. He thinks he will end up with Alzheimer's­like his mother and grandmother.

“I want my life back and to build birdhouses and draw.

Life is too short,” he says.

THE TRAVELLERS already understand that. 28-year-old ­ unta from Okazaki, Japan is travelling the world with his J girlfriend Yuriko Mukamoto, 26, and their friend Shiho Omasa, 30. The women are singing Japanese folk songs at the rest area by Moonshine Beach, while the Junta philosophises. He’s been travelling for four years.

“I wanted freedom,” he says.

vet dette allerede. Junta (28) fra Okasaki r­ eiser verden rundt med kjæresten Yuriko Mukamoto (26) og h ­ ennes venninne Shiho Omasa (30). Jentene s­ynger ­japanske folkesanger på rasteplassen ved Moonshine Beach, mens Junta filosoferer over livet. I fire år har han reist.

– Jeg ville ha frihet.

– Fikk du det?

Junta smiler.

– Nesten. Jeg er på vei. Før var jeg grusom. Et beist. Jeg fant musikken og kjærligheten. Så jeg bestemte meg for å elske.

Kan en annet i dette landskapet? Det beste venter

DE REISENDE

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(1) Sunset. The marina in Monterey.

(2) Long distance man. Multimedia artist Barth Péron, 32, from France is doing a three year world trip on his bike and creating art along the way. Here he is in Big Sur. (3) A room with a view. Winding roads and stunning views are the essence of Big Sur.

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Facts Pacific Coast Highway Also called PCH and Highway 1.

California's coastal road stretches from Dana Point in Orange County in the south and all the way to Leggett in Mendocino County in the north.

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Some sections run concurrently with Highway 101, mainly through Ventura, Santa Barbara and the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

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Junta smiles when asked if he’s found it.

“Almost. I'm on my way. I used to be cruel.

A beast. I found music and love. So I decided to love instead,” he says.

What else could you possibly do in this landscape? And the best is yet to come. The waterfall on the beach at Julie Pfeiffer State Park. The luxury resort Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur. The smell of the biggest wildfire in decades being doused. In a cabin named “Trotter,” the beds are soft, the pillows are plentiful and the view of the Pacific Ocean covers 180 degrees. The couple Christopher Huth, 39, and Jason Paul, 33, of New York dream of stashing their luggage in the woods, dressing up as deer and staying forever.

But the Monterey Peninsula awaits. As does Carmel-by-the-Sea and coffee at Il ­Fornaio. Then, nightlife in the seaside town of Santa Cruz, where the bars Red and The Red Room get a thumbs up and Rush Inn should have been called Rush Out. The local surf spot Pleasure Point and Pie Ranch on the Pescadero coast make up for it.

The Pacific Coast Highway is a wave and we’re riding it to San Francisco without even getting our feet wet.

oss ennå. Fossefallet som ender på Julie Pfeiffer State Beach. Luksusresortet Post ­ Ranch Inn i Big Sur. Lukten av den største ­brannen i området på flere tiår er i ferd med åd ­ empes. I hytten «Trotter» med havutsikt er ­sengen myk, putene mange og utsikten over S ­tillehavet 180 grader. Kjærestene ­Christopher Huth (39) og Jason Paul (33) fra New York drømmer om å gjemme bagasjen sin i skogen, kle seg i hjortekostyme og bli for alltid.

Men Monterey-halvøya venter. Carmelby-the-Sea og kaffe på Il Fornaio. Videre til nattliv i badebyen Santa Cruz der barene Red og The Red Room får tommelen opp og Rush Inn burde vært omdøpt til Rush Out. En bagatell. Det lokale surfepunktet Pleasure­Point og Pie Ranch ved Pescaderokysten veier opp.

Pacific Coast Highway er en bølge og vi rir den nå, tørrskodd hele veien til San ­Francisco.

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Landslides and forest fires ­occasionally shut down the road, especially along the ­oldest and most famous ­section at Big Sur. It’s a good idea to check road conditions in advance.

Be sure to fill your fuel tank south of Hearst Castle,­ ­because filling stations ­become scarce and expensive further north.

Fastest way there Los Angeles: One weekly

flight with Norwegian, starting from 1 June (10 hours, 55 minutes).

San Francisco/Oakland: Three weekly with Norwegian, starting from 28 May (10 hours, 15 minutes).

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inspiration The traveller

Impressions. Foreign correspondent Hege Moe Eriksen observes the financial fates of several European countries, which have left quite an impression. �Especially when you come from a country like Norway that has been virtually untouched by the crisis,� she says.

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A direct connection from Europe Text Thomas Karlsen Photos Lars Myhren Holand

Foreign Correspondent Hege Moe Eriksen, 38, often travels 15 days a month. Utenrikskorrespondent Hege Moe Eriksen (38) er ofte på reise 15 dager i måneden.

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ege Moe Eriksen was based in Brussels as NRK's ege Moe Eriksen var NRKs øyne og ører i Brüssel. eyes and ears. She covered the large swath of w ­ estern Ansvarsområdet hennes inkluderer store deler av Europe (excluding Germany and the B ­ ritish Isles) Vest-Europa (dog ikke medregnet Tyskland og de that stretches from Paris to Athens. britiske øyer), langs et belte som strekker seg fra Paris og “I have been out on the streets a lot talking to p ­ eople, ned til Athen. ­often in Madrid and Athens, places where the financial­ – Jeg har vært mye ute i gatene og snakker med mennesker,­ crisis is especially noticeable. It’s not about slums ofte i Madrid og Athen, som er to byer der fi ­ ­ nanskrisen er ex­ ­ panding, a­lthough old-fashioned soup kitchens have ekstra påtagelig. Ikke på den måten at det vokser opp slumbegun to pop up in Athens. Rather, you see that the entire områder eller slikt – selv om de gamle suppe­kjøkkenene society has been ­affected. You have unemployment rates har begynt å dukke opp igjen i Athen. Snarere­i den fornot seen since the Depression of the stand at du ser hvor påvirket hele sam1930s. In Spain, ­there are now one milfunnet er. Du har ­arbeidsledighetstall lion house­holds in which no member man ikke har sett siden depresjonen BEST TRAVEL TIP of the family is employed, and who are på 1930-­tallet. I ­Spania fins det nå én living off of their grandparents' pention. million husholdninger der ingen av ­ I travel so much and always have a halfway packed suitcase nearby.

Youth un­employment is 50 per cent. ­familiemedlemmene har arbeid, og som But what I try to remember is to Young, newly graduated research­ ers lever på besteforeldregenerasjon­ ens take all the small toiletries you with a doctoral degrees and seven years pensjon. Arbeidsledigheten blant unge get at a hotel – toothbrushes, of study­behind them are left with noter på 50 prosent. Unge, ny­utdannede shampoo, and the like. You never know when you'll suddenly need hing, and families with children are out forskere med doktorgrad og sju års them, and they are so small that on the streets,” she says. ­studier bak seg blir stående på bar bakke­ you can take them through airport “These are fates that make quite og barnefamilier havner på gata, for­ security. an impression, particularly when you teller hun. come from a country like Norway that – Det er skjebner som gjør veldig has been virtually untouched by the crisis,” she adds. inntrykk. Kanskje særlig når man kommer fra et land som Norge, som har vært så godt som uberørt av krisen.

She wanted to be in France for secondary school. She lived in Ramallah in the West Bank to learn Arabic, and now Hun reiste til Frankrike for å gå på skole på videre­ she speaks Spanish, French and Arabic fluently. The town gående. Hun bodde i Ramallah på Vestbredden for å lære that most surprised her, and which she likes to return to, is seg arabisk, og i dag snakker hun både spansk, fransk og the small, southern Spanish coastal city of Cadiz, where on arabisk flytende. Byen hun likevel har blitt mest overrasket a clear day you can see across to Morocco. over, og som også er den hun helst reiser tilbake til, er den “Cadiz is basically a little impoverished city, but there is lille sørspanske kystbyen Cadiz, en by der du på klare dager something about the atmosphere and the mood there that kan se over til Marokko. always makes me long to return. It is a place where p ­ eople – Cadiz var en i utgangspunktet litt fattigslig by, men det live their lives on street corners more than at home in er noe med atmosfæren og stemingen i den som jeg alltid

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Although it's a country outside my work area, we are beginning to ­perhaps see Poland as an emerging European power.

Hege Moe Eriken

Selv om det er et land som befinner seg utenfor mitt arbeidsområde, begynner vi også å kanskje ane ­konturene av Polen som en gryende europeisk stormakt.

Hege Moe Eriken

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their houses, and everyone you meet is very welcoming,” lengter tilbake til. Det er en plass der folk lever sine liv på says Moe Eriksen, who was first drawn to the city by her gatehjørnet mer enn hjemme i huset, og alle du møter på fascination­with flamenco dancing. er veldig inkluderende, sier Moe Eriksen, som første gang “So, I usually return home from Spain with fabrics, reiste­dit av fascinasjon for flamencodans. ­pleated skirts or new flamenco shoes,” she says.

– Så når jeg kommer hjem fra Spania, er det som oftest One more thing she brings home from her travels: med nye stoffer, nye foldeskjørt, eller nye flamenco-sko. ­re­fridgerator magnets. And, perhaps even more unusual:­ Hva hun også kommer hjem med fra sine reiser: kjøle­ election campaign T-shirts. Whenever she covers a skapsmagneter. Og, kanskje hakket mindre vanlig: ­ ­European election, she tries to get a hold of various parties' valgkamptrøyer. Dekker hun en europeisk valgkamp, campaign T-shirts. As a result, she has a Berlusconi shirt, forsøker­hun bestandig å få fatt i t-skjorter. Følgelig har a “Youth for Sarkozy” shirt, and one she got her hands on hun B ­erlusconi-trøye, Ungdom for Sarkozy-trøye, og when in Liberia to cover President E ­ llen Johnson Sirleaf’s én hun hanket inn da hun var i Liberia for å dekke gjen­ re-election ­ campaign. And yet, the valget av Ellen J ­ohnson Sirleafs som ­jewels of her souvenir c­ ollection are not ­landets ­president. Og likevel: Juvelen T-shirts, but flip-flops. Several pairs of i souvernir­samlingen er ikke en trøye, BEST VACATION TIP them. men flip-flops. Flere par flip-flops.

“Together they made a half-metre – Til sammen utgjorde de et halv­ I am and will remain a big city perwide helicopter,” she says with a laugh. meter stort helikopter, ler hun. son, and am very fond of Paris. But this summer, we stayed at a castle

in Champagne, in a tiny village, Europe became Om du skal forstå hvordan ­Europa with an extensive wine cellar and a what it is today, travel to Paris or Rome. har blitt hva det er i dag: reis til ­Paris good restaurant. Then I knew that Travel to Normandy; see Omaha Beach, eller Roma. Reis til Normandie, se ­ the future may just as well be there than on the hot asphalt. where Allied troops landed in 1944.

Ohama Beach, der allierte tropper ­ However, if you envision a career as gjorde­landgang i 1944. Om du derimot a foreign reporter, and want to be in ser for deg en karriere som utenriks­ Europe’s zenith, ­there is just one place. reporter, og vil befinne deg i Europas zenithpunkt: “Germany,” says Moe Eriken. “Definitely. Germany is – Tyskland, sier Hege Moe Eriken. going to be the leader in all major areas: Political, economic,­ – Definitivt. Tyksland kommer til å være ledende på alle cultural. They are also good at adapting, preparing for the de største områdene. Politisk, økonomisk, kulturelt. De er future, so you can see that such topics as environment, dessuten gode på å omstille seg,til å sko seg for fremtiden, climate and sustainable development are becoming in- og derfor ser du at emner som miljø, klimakamp og bære­ creasingly important in Germany. And although it is a kraftig utvikling blir stadig viktigere i Tyskland. Om selv om ­country that is outside my work area, we are beginning det er et land som befinner seg utenfor mitt arbeidsområde, to perhaps see Poland as an emerging European power,” begynner vi også å kanskje ane konturene av Polen som en says Moe ­Eriksen, who spends as many as 15 days a month gryende europeisk stormakt, sier Moe Eriksen, som i jobben ­travelling for work, in and out of airports. sin kan være så mye som 15 dager i måneden på veien, ut og “That's when I realised I had a job with a lot of travel: I inn av flyplasser. figured that if I forgot something at my hotel in Madrid,­ – Det var da jeg innså at jeg var i en jobb med mye reising: I didn’t have to get it sent to me because I could just pick it jeg skjønte at hvis jeg hadde glemt noe igjen på hotellet mitt up the following week,” she says. i Madrid, trengte jeg ikke å få dette ettersendt. Jeg kunne bare plukke det opp neste tirsdag.

To understand how

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T-shirts. Whenever she covers a European election, reporter Hege Moe Eriksen tries to get a hold of various parties' campaign T-shirts.

As a result, she has a Berlusconi shirt, a “Youth for Sarkozy” shirt, and one she got her hands on when in Liberia to cover President Ellen Johnson Sirleaf’s re-election campaign.

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inspiration City secrets

The beginning of

the end Text Thomas Karlsen photos Kristian Ridder-Nielsen

History hangs in the air in the Polish port city of Gdańsk. The cracks that started here eventually caused the collapse of communism in Eastern Europe. Historien ligger tung i den polske havnebyen Gdańsk. Her oppsto de første sprekkene i det som skulle bli kommunismens endelige fall i Øst-Europa.

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Photo CORBIS/NTB SCANPIX

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AN AcQUIRED TASTE / en ervervet smak Lard on dry bread may not be your definition of a tasty snack, but that doesn't mean you'll have to stumble to bed ravenous with hunger in Gdańsk. Or thirsty, for that matter.

Koagulert fett på tørt brød er kanskje ikke helt focaccia og aioli, men det betyr ikke at du trenger å gå sulten til sengs i Gdańsk. Eller tørst, for den saks skyld.

COLOSSALLY DRUNK / KOLOSSALT UTELIV

Bunkier ul. Olejarna 3 It’s a brick colossus w ­ ith room for 1,200 people with one metre (three foot) thick walls that the Nazis built during World War II as a vast, eightstory bunker. Step inside and, for just a second, it feels like you’ve entered the video game "Medal of Honor." Head for the upper floors and you’ll find bars, DJs and photography exhibitions, as well as Gdańsk's best weekend nightlife. And never have you felt more ‘inside’ when you’ve gone out.

En mursteinskloss med kapasitet til 1200 mennesker og én meter tykke vegger, det er hva dette var under andre verdenskrig, da nazistene bygget denne åtte etasjer digre bunkeren. Gå inn, og et øyeblikk føles det som du har gått inn i en av platt­formene i Medal of Honor. Fortsett oppover etasjene, og du finner barer, DJ-er og fotoutstillinger, samt Gdańsks beste uteliv i ­helgene. Og aldri har du vært ute og følt deg mer inne.

TRAVEL IN TIME / REIS I TID Lamus ul. Lawendowa 8 The intersection at the streets ul. Straganiarska­ and ul. Lawendowa has become one of the trendiest­places in the city at night and right in the middle of it all is Lamus, a place that is as much a time machine as a bar.

Dive into one of the bar's specialties: Zubrowkavodka, apple juice and ­cinnamon and let it rip.

But beware: The '70sstyles wallpaper may start to seem more psychedelic than it did when you arrived.

Krysset ul.

Straganiarska/­­ ul. Lawendowa har befestet

seg som et av de mest trendy stedene i byen på kveldstid, og sentralt i lomma ligger sjarmerende Lamus, et sted som som er like mye en tidsmaskin som en bar.

Dykk ned i en av barens spesialiteter: Zubrowkavodka, eplejuice og kanel, og la det stå til. Men pass på: Litt for mange, og 70-tallstapetet på veggen er fort mer psykedelisk enn da du kom.

MILK IT / Å MELKE Bar Mleczny Neptune ul. Dluga 33 Gdańsk's best-known milk bar is right on the charming street ul. Dluga.

Its interior is about as exciting as a railroad station

cafe and the place seems to have missed out on the collapse of the Iron Curtain altogether. But you won’t leave hungry: The dinner portions are more geared to construction workers than tourists. And as a visitor, you are more or less obliged to try their famous strawberry kefir first.

Gdańsks mest berømte melkebar, midt i sjarmerende ul. Dluga.

Interiørmessig er det omtrent så spennende som en hvilken som helst norsk jernbanekafé, og Jernteppets oppløsning synes å ha gått plassen hus forbi, men mett blir du – middagstallerknene er myntet på anleggs­ arbeidere mer enn turister.

Som turist er det jo likevel den nesten saliggjørende jordbærkefiren du først og fremst skal prøve.

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DINNER WITH LECH / MIDDAG MED LECH Restauracja Gdańska ul. Sw. Ducha 16 Taking your seat at one of the oldest operating restaurants in Gdańsk is a bit like being in a mixture of a museum, a lounge for the upper classes and a hunting lodge. Here you'll find heavy velvet drapes and dark wood everywhere and good food made from local recipes (that said, white fat on dry bread may not be for everyone).

It was supposedly Lech Walesa’s favourite haunt and his preferred threecourse dinner comes complete with a glass of very spicy Wałęsówka pepper vodka.

En av de eldste gjen-

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værende restaurantene i Gdańsk, og å sette seg ned her er litt som å sette seg ned i en blanding av museum, herskapssalong og jaktkammer, med tunge fløyelsdraperier og mørkt tre på alle bauger og kanter. God mat på lokale oppskrifter (dét sagt, hvitt fett på tørt brød er ikke for alle) og visstnok Lech Walesas favoritt.

Hans foretrukne treretter fins også, komplett med et glass peppersterk Wałęsówka-vodka.

BY THE RIVER / NEDE VED ELVA Przystań Gdańsk ul. Wartka 5 This secluded gem of a restaurant, complete with

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fishing nets and seashells on the walls, on the banks of Motława, is barely 10 minutes from the old city (Gdańsk is small enough to walk everywhere).

The menu includes a lot of fresh fish, traditional Polish food (meat, beets, glased fruits, cabbage, potatoes) and a lot of Mediterranean touches.

Also try the Russian dumplings, which are a whole lot better than they look.

Denne avsidesliggende perlen av en restaurant, komplett med fiskegarn og skjell på veggene, ligger ved bredden av Motława,

knappe ti minutter fra gamlebyen (Gdańsk er ikke større enn at du fint går overalt). Menyen består av mye fersk fisk, tradisjonell polsk mat (kjøtt, rødbeter, glassert frukt, kål, potet) og en hel del middelhavsk.

Prøv dessuten de russiske dumplingene – de er veldig mye bedre enn øynene dine først skal ha det til.

THE GOLDEN TOUCH / DET GYLNE TREFF

Goldwasser ul. Dlugie Pobrzese 22, entrance from ul. Dlugi Targ

This is the café that German­Chancellor Angela­ Merkel picked the last time she stopped by for a chat with Polish President Bronislaw Komorowski. Not only is it a charming institution in the history of Gdańsk cafes, but you can also try one of three local elixirs: Goldwasser, with 23-carat gold flakes; the herbal brew Kurfürsten; and the local Machandel vodka.

Dette er kafeen den ­tyske kansler Angela Merkel­valgte ut da hun sist la­veien innom Gdańsk for å slå av en prat med president Bronislaw Komorowski. Her kan du også handle med deg hjem tre lokale eliksirer:­Goldwasser med 23-­karats gullflak, urtebryggen Kurfürsten samt lokal Machandel-vodka.

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WALK YOUR WALLET / ta med lommeboken Mouthwatering kielbasas, brilliant amber, kasabian arts and crafts-pieces: Window shopping in Gdańsk can pack quite a few surprises. Vann-i-munnen-lekre polske krydderpølser, glitrende ravsteiner og kunsthåndverk fra Kasubia-fjellene. Vindushopping i Gdańsk har et par jokere i ermet.

– polakker og tyskere kom århundrer senere.

På vesle Cepelia finner du alt hjertet måtte begjære av kasjubisk håndverk, hva enten det gjelder vevede tepper, dukker eller ullpledd. Eventuelt Solidaritet-tskjorte, om det ikke er kasjubisk trekunst du er på utkikk etter. Engelsk snakker hun ikke, den gamle innehaveren, så her er det bare å peke på det du vil ha.

FOR COFFEE PURISTS / FOR KAFFEPURITANERE

UNDER ONE ROOF / UNDER ETT TAK Madison ul. Rajska 10 ››› madison.gda.pl If you find yourself all alone in the middle of old town, asking yourself, “Where is everybody?” the answer is here: the city’s newest and largest shopping centre. Maybe it's not quite Harrods (or even your local mall, perhaps) but at least you have a lot of stores in one place when the weather turns foul.

Om du står midt i gamlebyen og tenker for deg selv: «Hvor er alle sammen?», så ligger svaret her, på byens nyeste og mest moderne kjøpesenter. Det er kanskje ikke

helt Harrods (kanskje ikke engang helt Gunerius...) men du har i alle fall mange butikker samlet på et sted når drittværet slår inn.

BITS AND PIECES / TING OG TANG

Cepelia ul. Długa 47 The Kashubians are an ethnic minority from northern and central Poland, including Gdańsk.

They also got there first, since the Poles and Germans­arrived centuries later. ­Tiny Cepelia offers ­everything your heart might ­desire of Kashubian crafts, whether it be woven rugs, dolls, wool blankets – or Solidarity T-shirts if you aren’t in the market for Kashubian wood art. The elderly female owner speaks no English, so just to point to what you want.

Kasjubia er en etnisk minoritet hjemmehørende i det nordlige og sentrale Polen, og følgelig også i Gdańsk, og også den som har vært her lengst

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MEAT FEAST / KJØTTFEST Hala Targowa Plac Dominikanski Built on the foundations of what was once a Dominican monastery stands the market hall Hala Targowa, the ceiling – from an Agatha Christieera train station – its main attraction. That and the opportunity to buy a few metres of kielbasa wiejska, the wonderful Polish garlic sausage.

Bygget på grunnmuren til det som en gang var et dominikansk kloster står nå markedshallen Hala Targowa, hvis fremste grunn til å komme hit er det innvendige taket, som revet ut av en togstasjon i Agatha Christies tid. Det, og muligheten for å kjøpe med seg metervis med kielbasa wiejska, den gode polske hvitløkspølsen.

This is the city's oldest and most venerable tea and coffee shop. Boasting nearly a hundred different coffees and teas for sale in large jars behind the counter, it also offers a lot of fine stoneware and confectionery chocolate. Additionally, you'll find a comfortable Viennese café for relaxing between forays.

Byens eldste og mest ærverdige te- og kaffe­ butikk, med nærmere hundre ulike kaffe- og tesorter til salgs på store glass bak kassa. Mye fint steintøy og konfektsjokolade i tillegg, og en behagelig wienerkafé å slappe av i mellom slagene.

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SHIMMERING, WARM AND BRIGHT / baltisk gull Galeria Wydra ul. Mariacka 6 Amber – also called ­ altic gold – is big B ­business in Gdańsk and is impossible to overlook. However, start with the best right away: the Lilliputian street ul. ­Mariacka, in the shadow of St. Mary's Church. The street is full of wrought iron gates and dragon-

heads and is also home to the largest number of socalled “Amber Chamber of Commerce Certificates.”

Wydra has such a certificate and is also said to be the oldest amber shop in Gdańsk. Check out the second floor as well for its beautiful crystal.

Rav – også kjent som det baltiske gull – er big business i Gdańsk, og umulig å unngå, men for å begynne på det beste stedet først som sist: Lille­puttaktige ul.

Mariacka, i skyggen av Mariakirken, full av

smijernsporter­og dragehoder, og desssuten gata med flest såkalte Amber Chamber of Commercesertifikat. Wydra er en av butikkene med et slikt, og sågar den eldste ravbutikken i Gdańsk. Sjekk også ut andreetasjen for vakkert krystall- og glasstøy – ­inkludert en pen kolleksjon småkitchy 70-talls krystall.

TOYING WITH THE PAST / Å LEKE MED FORTIDEN

Galeria Starych Zabawek ul. Piwna 19/21 ››› stare-zabawki.pl The city's smallest museum is filled with toys and other things Polish children played with from 1920-1989. These include everything from Teddy Bears to Star Wars characters of varying authenticity (at least we have never seen a purple C-3PO robot before).

The Polish-French bear Colargol is also on display, but, unfortunately, is not on the shelves of the museum shop. However, there is no lack of other playthings to choose from.

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Byens minste museum, et leketøysmuseum fullt av den type ting polske barn lekte med fra 1920 til 1989, fra teddybamser til Star Wars-figurer av varierende autensitet – det er ikke ofte vi har sett en turkislakkert C-3PO, i alle fall. Den polsk-franske bjørnen Colargol står også i en av hyllene. Dessverre fins han ikke i museumsbutikken, men det gjør alskens andre lekefigurer. For alle ­nostalgikere.

RAINBOW STREET / REGNBUEGATEN Długi Targ ul. Długa 12 There is a good chance that you’re already staying on this street. In case you aren’t, visit Długi

Targ (Long Market) and its much-photographed walking street ul. Długa, which has narrow, tall buildings painted in every colour of the rainbow and is flanked by two large, beautiful gates. Sadly, it is a bit of a tourist trap, although these two streets also offer you many of the city's most distinctive cafes and shops.

Sannsynligheten er stor for at du jo faktisk bor i denne gata allerede, men i tilfelle du ikke gjør det: Długi Targ med dens påfølgende ul. Długa er byens mye fotograferte gågate, med smale, høye bygninger malt i hele palettens fargeutvalg, og på hver side flankert av to store, vakre porter.

Dessverre litt turistfelle, samtidig er det i disse to gatene du finner mange av byens mest særpregede kafeer og butikker.

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NOSTALGIA TRIP / nostalgisk tur Gdańsk is laden with history, whether it's in the bourgeois buildings in the Old Town or at the docks. Gå gjennom Gdańsk, og du kan formerlig høre historiens vingeslag, enten det er fra herskapshusene i sentrum eller fra verftet på havna.

THE EMPTY HOUSE / DET TOMME HUSET The Uphagen House ul. Długa 12 ››› mhmg.pl The classic European townhouse – think Thomas Mann’s “Buddenbrooks” family – is the only thing that remains from the once-influential Uphagen family’s era in Gdańsk. The family was deported to Hamburg in 1944. Music chambers, lounges and a huge tiled stove give at least a hint of the affluence that prevailed in the higher bourgeois before the outbreak of World War II. Klassisk europeisk borger­skapshus – tenk Thomas Manns ­Buddenbrook-familie – det eneste som er igjen etter den i sin tid innflytelsesrike Uphagen-familien i

Gdańsk: Familien ble deportert til Hamburg i 1944.

Musikkværelser, salonger og en enorm ­kakkelovn gir et visst inntrykk av velstanden som rådet i det høyere borgerskapet før krigsutbruddet.

IN THE GREAT SCHEME OF THINGS / Storslått ordning

St. Mary's Church Bazylika Mariacka Measuring 105 metres­ by 66 metres (344 by 216 feet) and with a 78 meter (255 foot) high bell tower, St. Mary's Church in Gdańsk is often called the world's largest brick church. From the outside, it might look like a relic left from the Middle Ages (which it is, having been built in 1342). But walk inside and light all but throws itself at you from the enormous glass windows through the big, white walls.

Practicing Catholics might enjoy the large painting of former Pope John Paul II, who was Polish and who was buried in Polish leather shoes rather than silk slippers usually preferred in the Vatican tradition. Also climb the stairs up to the tower to take in the magnificent view of Gdańsk.

Denne elefantiske katedralen – med en lengde på 105 meter, bredde på 66 meter og ­et 78 meter høyt klokketårn omtales Mariakirken i Gdańsk ofte som verdens største murkirke – kan fra utsiden fortone seg som en levning fra den mørke middelalderen (og er det også: 1342), men gå inn døren, og lyset her inne nærmest kaster seg mot øynene dine gjennom enorme glassvinduer, via de store, hvite veggene.

Troende katolikker vil finne glede i det store maleriet av avdøde Pave Johannes Paul II, som var polsk og ble begravet i polske lærsko istedetfor tøfler, slik vatikansk skikk er. Ta også trappen opp til tårnet, og ta inn det ­storslåtte synet av Gdańsk.

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN / HVOR DET HELE STARTET Roads to freedom ul. Waly Piastowskie 24 ››› fcs.org.pl

More than anything, the shipyard is the defining symbol of Gdańsk. This is where Lech Walesa and his Solidarity trade union gathered and started the fight for higher wages and better working rights and from then on always had a screwdriver in his pocket to remind him of his origins.

The yard itself is raw, torn and worn, but still a fascinating place and one of the keys to the fall of com­ munism in Eastern­Europe .

This ­museum gives you the whole, fascinating story.

Mer enn noe annet er Skipsverftet det som definerer og symboliserer Gdańsk. Det var her Lech Walesa og hans Solidaritet­ samlet fagforeningen og startet kampen for høyere lønn og bedre arbeider­ rettigheter, og i alle år senere gikk han alltid rundt med en skrutrekker i lomma, for å minne seg selv om hvor han kom fra. Verftet selv er rått, herjet og nedslitt, men like fullt et fascinerende sted, og en av nøklene til kom­munismens endelikt i Øst-Europa – og på dette museet får du hele den fascinerende historien.

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REMEMBER THE DEAD / mentet til ære for de 45 verftsarbeiderne som Å MINNES DE DØDE døde under opptøyene mot kommunistene i 1970, var faktisk noe av årsaken Monument of the Fallen til at Solidaritet gikk til Shipyard Workers of 1970 streik: Myndighetene ul. Doki 1 ­nektet først å reise den i 1980. Til slutt ga de etter, This 42 metre (134 foot) high, 139 tonne (153 short og ga med det Lech Walesa ton) monument honours og Solidaritet vann på 45 shipyard workers who mølla. Her begynte komdied during uprisings munismens fall. against the communists in 1970. The statue was, in fact, one of the reasons Solidarity started is system-changing strikes: The authorities at first refused to allow the statute to be raised in 1980. Finally they gave in, providing Lech Walesa and Solidarity the push they needed to start bringing down communism.

Dette 42 meter høye, 139 tonn tunge monu-

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A RUSSIAN PRESENCE/ RUSSISK TILSTEDE­ VÆRELSE

Czołg Al. Zwycięstwa This Russian T-34 was meant to celebrate the liberation of Gdańsk in May 1945. According to local historians, this was the tank, No. 121 under the command of Lt. Julian

­ iazga, that was the M first to enter Gdańsk on 27 March 1945, when the Soviet Union and Poland began an offensive against the Germans. ­Today, it is constantly being repainted because it has become a prime ­target for taggers and graffiti artists. It is controversial, since many see it as a sneaky attempt by the Russians to highlight their presence.

Denne russiske ­T-34-panservogna er ment å feire frigjøringen av Gdańsk i mai 1945.

Ifølge lokalhistorikere tilhørte denne tank nr. 121 Løytnant Julian Miazga, og var den første som ­rullet inn i Gdańsk 27. mars 1945, da Sovjet­ unionen og Polen startet offensiven mot tyskerne. I dag må den stadig males

om, da den har blitt en yndet mål for taggere og grafittiartister. Omstridt er den også – mange ser på den som et ­snikete russisk forsøk på å ­markere til­stedeværelse.

Fastest way there Gdańsk: Five weekly

flights with Norwegian, and four with SAS (1 hour, 25 minutes).

HUGO BOSS Nordic ApS Phone +45 33 188000 www.hugoboss.com

Inspiration GO! Photo thinkstock

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Orkney Islands. Vikings made these islands the HQ of their pirate expeditions during the 8th and early 9th centuries.

The world's shortest flight What about a flight that ends after 47 seconds?

Hva med å oppleve en 47 sekunders flytur?

The world’s shortest commercial flight takes place between the two ­Orkney Islands – Westray and Papa Westray – separated by a distance of only 1.7 miles.

The flight duration is of ­fi cially two minutes, but under ideal wind conditions it can be completed in only 47 seconds, writes amusingplanet.com.

About 30 per cent of the plane's ­passengers are associated with the ­Orkney Islands Council's education service, while many others are health staff and patients of the Scottish ­National Health Service. The island of Papa Westray is home to just over 70 people.

Loganair, which has flown the route since the 1960s, introduced a popular flight for tourists in 2011. The special flights run a couple days each week during the summer. The trips are for folks who just want the experience and then to go back to the Orkney Mainland rather than stay out on the islands.

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Verdens korteste kommersielle flytur finner sted mellom de to Orknøyene Westray og Papa Westray. Avstanden mellom øyene er på bare 2,7 km. Flyturen varer offisielt i kun to minutter – men under ideelle vindforhold kan den være ferdig på bare 47 sekunder, skriver Amusingplanet.com.

Rundt 30 prosent av passasjerene på denne flyruta er knyttet til Orknøyenes utdanningssystem, mens de andre gjerne er helsepersonell og pasienter hos Scottish National Health Service. Øya Papa Westray har 70 innbyggere.

Loganair, som har fløyet til øya siden 1960-tallet, har nå innført en populær flytur for turister også. Disse spesielle flyturene går et par dager i uka om sommeren. Her kan turister som bare vil oppleve den svært korte flyturen, bli med.

Facts North of Scotland.

70 islands, but only 20 are inhabitated.

21,000 inhabitants. >>> visitorkney.com

Fastest way there From OSL: Via Amster-

dam and Aberdeen with KLM and Flybe (7 hours, 25 minutes).

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Inspiration World class city

Afternoon city. Zßrich changes character in the evening. The city shrinks, becomes cosier – and people pour into the streets and narrow alleyways.

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Swiss quality Text Eivind eidslott photos ntb scanpix / corbis

An ode to Zürich.

En hymne til Zürich.

T

he first time you go to a city, you're a stranger. The

stranger sees everything more clearly. The stranger hears better. The stranger understands more. Or so they think.

The first time I went to Zürich, I thought it was a city of senior executives. A city of men in expensive suits. A city of important meetings in big banks. It was in Zürich, that I, for the first time ever, saw a Porsche, a Ferrari and a ­Lamborghini in the same minute. Everything was so slick.

It was as if Monaco had moved up into the mountains, as if everyone wanted to show off their personal wealth. I also noticed it was cold.

I left town as fast as I could, with my ski bag in tow, and headed for Engelberg.

Auf Wiedersehen.

The second time I went to Zürich, I stayed a little longer. I walked around the medieval old town, and was surprised by the beautiful architecture. I discovered small, unique cafes.

The winter sun warmed us. People smiled. Maybe Zürich was something more than just a big financial transaction?

I went to Zürich, I stayed one night. The city changed character in the evening, as cities tend to do.

Zürich shrank and became cosier, warmer. Even though it was autumn, and the air had turned nippy, people still poured into the streets and narrow alleyways.

Zürich has restaurants everywhere, with all sorts of food, in all sorts of price ranges. Zürich beckons with small, ­independent shops – and of course those offering the many watches, the many jewels, and, not in the least, an awful lot of chocolate. But there is also a lot of other stuff, sometimes weird stuff: clothing stores, shoe stores, toy stores, designer products, galleries, theatre and opera. I never finished looking in all the shop windows. It turned out that I had walked so far that I had to take the tram back. And there, in the tram

The third time

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F

ørste gang du kommer til en by, er du en fremmed.

Den fremmede ser alt tydeligere. Den fremmede ­hører bedre. Den fremmede forstår mer. Tror han.

Første gang jeg kom til Zürich, tenkte jeg at dette er en by for direktører. En by for menn i dyre dresser. En by for viktige­møter i store banker. For første gang i livet så jeg både en Porsche, en Ferrari og en Lamborghini i løpet av ett minutt. Alt var så glatt. Det var som om Monaco hadde flyttet opp i fjellene, som om alle ville vise fram sin personlige formue. I tillegg var det kaldt.

Jeg reiste ut av byen så raskt jeg kunne, med skibagen på slep, i retning Engelberg.

Auf Wiedersehen.

Andre gang jeg kom til Zürich, ble jeg litt lenger. Jeg gikk rundt i den middelalderske gamlebyen, ble overrasket over den vakre arkitekturen, oppdaget noen små, unike kafeer.

Vintersola varmet. Folk smilte. Kanskje Zürich var noe mer enn en eneste stor finanstransaksjon?

jeg kom til Zürich, ble jeg over en natt. Om kvelden endret byen karakter, slik byer har en tendens til å gjøre. Zürich krympet, ble lunere, ble varmere. Selv om det var høst, og luften var blitt skarp, strømmet folk ut i gatene, inn i de trange smugene.

Zürich byr på restauranter overalt, med all verdens mat, og i alle slags prisklasser. Zürich inviterer til små, uavhengige­ butikker – og selvsagt er det mange klokker, og selvsagt er det mange juveler, og selvsagt er det mye sjokolade – men du finner også andre ting, rare ting, kles­butikker, sko­butikker, leketøysforretninger, designprodukt­er, gallerier,­teater, en opera. Jeg ble aldri ferdig med å se inn gjennom alle vinduene. Til slutt hadde jeg gått så langt at jeg måtte ta trikken ­tilbake. Og der, om bord i en trikkevogn, lente jeg meg tilbake, så ut på folkelivet og tenkte at dette, dette er virkelig en fin by.

Tredje gang

›

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World class city

•

(1) The architecture. Zürich is ­famous for its beautiful buildings and great architecture.

(2) The river. The city of Zurich is divided in two by the river ­Limmat.

Follow the river down to Lake Zürich on a hot s ­ ummer day and take a swim! (­ 3) The tram. A city is best d­iscovered on foot. Or, as in the case of Zürich, by sitting on the ­effective tram.

2

tips Don't be late. Showing up five minutes early is the rule.

Say “Merci” instead of “Danke schön.”

Impress locals by saying “Züri” instead of “Zürich.”

Install the ZVV application on your iPhone or Android-based phone. The real-time publictransport timetable makes travelling as precise as a Swiss watch.

Don't drive: The city is full of one-way streets.

1

3

>>> monocle.com

Facts Zürich

›

›

car, I leaned back, looked out onto streets so full of life, full of people, and thought to myself: “This is a ­really nice city.”

Fjerde gang jeg kom til Zürich, var det sommer. Det var like varmt som i Napoli, men det gjorde ingenting. Det virket som om hele byens befolkning hadde gått ut i gatene for å feire juli måned, for å drikke noe kaldt, eller spise is, eller gå på tivoli. Jeg gikk langs elva Limmat i retning Zürichsjøen. Der byen slutter og sjøen begynner, fant jeg et badehus – med brygger, og solsenger, og forfriskende vann. Og jeg tenkte: Denne byen har alt.

D­enne byen trenger ikke noe mer.

I went to Zürich, it was summer. It was as hot as Naples, but that didn’t matter. It seemed as if the entire city's population had taken to the streets to revel in the month of July itself, to have a cold drink, or an ice cream; or to go to an amusement park. I walked along the river Limmat, toward Lake Zürich. Where the city ends and the lake begins, I found a bathhouse – with docks – and sunbathers and refreshing ­water. And I thought, “This city has it all.

This city lacks nothing.”

The fourth time

The fifth time I went to Zürich, I paused outside a realtor’s office. I caught myself studying the city's housing prices.

“I could live here,” I thought.

“This would be a nice place to live.”

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Zürich is the largest city in Switzerland with about 400,000 inhabitants.

Zürich is an international financial centre, but is also known for its universities and colleges.

Zürich was named the world's best city to live in by the magazine Monocle (2012), partly because of its rich cultural offerings, well-organised public transport, international atmosphere, proximity to the Alps and much more. >>> zuerich.com

jeg kom til Zürich, s­ toppet jeg opp utenfor en eiendomsmegler.

Jeg tok meg selv i å studere byens bolig­priser.

Her kunne jeg bodd, tenkte jeg.

Her ville det vært fint å bo.

Den femte gangen

Fastest way there Zürich: Two daily flights with

SWISS, and one with SAS (2 hours, 20 minuntes).

TREND

Alf Frislid established his suit factory at Nordfjordeid in 1946. With more than 65 years of experience Frislid has developed vast knowledge in making suits. Frislid Trend is a collection based on this knowledge made with a sharp contemporary Scandinavian appearance. designs and patterns are created to achieve this perfect fit. This is Frislid Trend.

For more information about Frislid and our dealers: Frislid konfeksjon AS, 6770 Nordfjordeid, Norway. Phone +47 57863700

The digital postcard Send a postcard directly from your mobile phone.

Send et postkort direkte fra mobilen din.

Are you among those who forget to

mail the four to five post cards you forced yourself to write on h ­ oliday?

Maybe you didn’t have local stamps.

Maybe there was no mailbox at the airport. Or maybe it was just a lack of willpower. This app is for you! With simple tricks, you build your own postcard, with your own photos and add a dated postmark from wherever you are in the world.

You write something nice, and then send the card directly to family and friends' e-mail.

«Postale» NOK 10 (euro 1.20)

Er du blant dem som glemmer å postlegge de fire-fem postkorta du har tvunget seg selv til å skrive i løpet av ferien? Kanskje manglet du frimerker, kanskje var der ingen postkasse på flyplassen, kanskje var det viljestyrken som sviktet? Dette appen for deg! Med enkle triks ­mekker du ditt helt egne postkort, med skrytebilder fra eget a­lbum, og med post- og dato­stempel fra nøyaktig der du befinner deg ­ i ­ verden. Du skriver så inn en hyggelig reise­ ­­ hilsen, og sender brevet­direkte til familie og venners e-postadresse.

«Postale» NOK 10

Direct response/ Direkte hjelp

Direct inspiration/ Direkte inspirert

Direct conversions/ Direkte valuta

Direct movies/ Direkte redigering

This app helps when you need it most: to call an ambulance, police or fire departments while abroad. The Help Call app works in 126 countries and has won numerous awards for its simple but effective function.

Dette er appen som hjelper deg når du trenger det som mest, når du må ringe ambulanse, politi eller brannvesen i utlandet.

Appen Help Call fungerer i 126 land og har mottatt en rekke priser for sin enkle men effektive funksjon.

If you like the inspirational site Pinterest, you will love Dcovery, which is the same idea but with a focus on travel. Not only does it make the research enjoyable, it also makes it easy to get in touch with other travel enthusiasts.

Liker du inspirasjons­ tjenesten Pinterest, kommer du vil å elske Dcovery, som går ut på det samme, men som rendyrker reise­ segmentet. Ikke bare gjør det research morsommere, det gjør også at du lettere kan komme i kontakt med andre reiseglade.

Exchange rate calculations can be pure misery. Maybe “Divide by two and add a zero” is close enough, but with low blood sugar when facing a possible bad deal, it may be just as well to let the app do the job.

Valutakalkulering kan være rene kattepinen. «Del på to og legg til en null» er riktignok en enkel formel, men med lavt blodsukker og et potensielt bomkjøp foran deg, kan det være like greit å la denne appen gjøre jobben.

We edit our mobile phone pictures without giving it a second thought, but what about all the video we take with our phones? The app Replay is a nice and easy way to turn these snippets into delightful, entertaining little movies.

Vi redigerer mobil­ bilder over en lav sko nå til dags, men hva med alle filmene vi har liggende på mobilen­? Appen Replay er en fin og lett måte å gjøre småsnuttene­på telefonen til en herlig, underholdende liten film på.

«Help Call» NOK 15 (euro 1.80)

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«Dcovery» NOK 20 (euro 2.40)

«Currency – Simple Converter» NOK 9 (euro 0.60)

«Replay» Free

Hemmeligheten ligger i flyten

Ring oss på: 55 38 77 77

Uni Micro har utviklet et av Norges mest brukte regnskapssystemer.

Uni Økonomi er blitt kåret til best i test av PC World, fire år på rad.

Det er funksjonelt, innovativt, og brukervennlig. Vårt mål er å gjøre regnskapsføring så enkelt som mulig. Dette betyr at du får en total løsning tilpasset din bedrifts behov, der informasjonen flyter sømløst mellom de ulike modulene.

«Uni Micro har et lekkert brukergrensesnitt og effektiv og avansert bokføring og fakturering. Vi liker godt at du bare betaler for de webmodulene du vil ha. ( ...)Uni Micro holder seg i forkant teknologisk og konkurrerer skarpt med langt større selskaper»

Det gir deg den gode arbeidsflyten.

PC World Norge sept. 2013

Uni Micro AS - unimicro.no Vi har kontorer i Modalen, Bergen, Oslo, Haugesund, Trondheim, Molde og Stavanger

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Rica Hotel Bergen

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Rica Ørnen Hotel

TRY SOMETHING NEW Bergen’s new meeting site, Rica Ørnen Hotel, opens the 2nd of May 2014! Centrally located, with innovative architecture, the hotel represents something new. While at the same time keeping in tradition what Rica Hotels are most renowned for; Great dining experiences, personal service and flexible conference solutions.

Welcome to a whole new hotel experience!

For booking, please contact: rica.ornen.hotel@rica.no, or tel: (+47) 55 37 50 00.

rica-hotels.com

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DesTInaTIon norWay BIG THINGS FROM A SMALL cOUNTRY >>> 62 citY LiVinG > 68 LoFotEn FisHinG > 76 BoHEmian BErGEn TexT ThomaS KarlSEn pHoTos KriSTian riDDEr-nilSEn

OSLO, NORWAY

THE SOUND OF OSLO

PHoto NTB SCANPIx / CORBIS

We write a lot about what oslo looks like. and sometimes we write about how oslo smells: a blend of sea, forest, grass and caffe lattes? But how does the city sound? is there something that we could characterise as the sound of oslo? Yep – the noise of the clocks in the eastern tower of the city hall. The sound goes straight to your ear. Join a tour in the months of June, July and august.

Vi skriver mye om hvordan oslo ser ut. og noen ganger skriver vi om hvordan oslo lukter: kanskje en blanding av sjø, skog, gress og caffe latte? men hvordan høres byen ut? Har vi en lyd som vi kan karakterisere som lyden av oslo? Jepp – klokkespillet fra østre tårn i oslo rådhus. Den lyden går rett inn i øret, for å si det sånn. Bli med på en guidet tur fra juni til august. ››› visitoslo.com

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oslo What´s on

a ski jump for our time

Direct action ART: Freedom of expression. It should be written in stone but is always under attack in some parts of the world. What we Westerners take for granted people in some places are willing to die for. "Grip Friheten! Take Liberty!" brings together works by a number of Norwegian and international contemporary artists (including Mathias Faldbakken and Gardar Eide Einarsson), all looking at themes such as national identity and individual freedom in some way. The 200th anniversary of Norway's constitution this year was a catalyst for the exhibition, which also touches on such concepts as democracy, independence and nationality. These ideas are explored in a framework of contemporary discourse on culture and diversity and the struggle for freedom and the ideals of liberty. What opportunities are there for self expression in a world still characterised by systematic violations of human rights? And not in the least: What are the threats?

SHOW: it was an out-dated ski jump that was often veiled by the weather. now, it is a state of the art ski venue that you can often glimpse through the fog. The holmenkollen ski jump overlooking oslo has been the heart of norwegian skiing for over 100 years. The first competition took place on 31 January 1892, with 12,000 spectators on hand to witness arne Ustvedt set a new record for the hill with a nice jump of 21.5 metres (70.5 feet). norwegians immediately followed up this event by rebuilding the jump, something they have now done 19 times in all. The current record for the hill is 141 metres (462.5 feet), set during the World Ski championships in 2011. however, that is not the number 1 reason for holmenkollen’s iconic status as a virtual shrine of skiing. its alluring appeal also has to do with its location, and the way it stands out, glittering over the city, even through the thickest mist. This is likely why it won the 2013 norwegian lighting prize. if someone were to award a norwegian Sound prize, it would probably go to the same place, since the so-called "holmenkollen roar" has been a bond between fans that has crossed social and cultural differences for generations, all the way back to that first record.

kUNST: Ytringsfriheten: skrevet i stein, men alltid under angrep i forskjellige deler av verden. Det vi tar for gitt, gir folket livet sitt for andre steder. «Grip friheten! take Liberty!» samler verker av en rekke nasjonale (deriblant mathias Faldbakken og Gardar Eide Einarsson) og internasjonale samtidskunstnere, alle sammen med en eller annen tilnærming til temaer som nasjonal identitet og individets frihet, med Grunnlovsjubileet som en slags katalysator for utstillingen.

Begreper som demokrati, selvstendighet og nasjonalitet settes inn i samtidige diskurser om kultur og mangfold og om kampen for frihet og frihetsidealer. Hvilke muligheter ligger i å uttrykke seg i en verden som fremdeles er preget av systematiske brudd på menneskerettighetene? og ikke minst: Hvilke trusler?

SHOW: Lenge var den en utdatert hoppbake som forsvant i tåka. nå er den en hypermoderne skibakke som ... så vidt kan skimtes i tåka. Holmenkollbakken har vært hjertet til norsk skisport i over 100 år. Det første hopprennet i bakken fant sted 31. januar 1892, med 12 000 tilskuere til stede for å bivåne arne ustvedt sette bakkerekord med småpene 21,5 meter, før man umiddelbart gikk i gang med den første av i alt 19 utbygginger av bakken. i dag ligger bakkerekorden på 141 meter, satt under Vm på ski i 2011, uten at dette egentlig er grunnen til at busslaster med mennesker reiser opp hit, til byens topp. nei, grunnen er dens ikoniske status, dens forlokkende appell, der den ligger og glitrer på kveldstid og kan sees fra hele byen, selv i den tykkeste tåke, hvilket sikkert var årsaken til at anlegget i 2013 vant norsk Lyspris. om noen skulle finne på å dele ut en norsk Lydpris, burde den sannsynligvis havne samme sted – det såkalte kollenbrølet har forenet publikum på tvers av sosiale og kulturelle forskjeller – helt tilbake til den gangen man hoppet 21,5 meter.

"GRIP FRIHETEN! TAkE LIBERTY!" Museum of contemporary art, Bankplassen 4 11 april – 10 august ››› nasjonalmuseet.no

FIS SkI JUMP WORLD cUP IN HOLMENkOLLEN 8 – 9 March ››› holmenkollen.com

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The forgotten fist

Photo NTB scanpix / Corbis

show: Mike Tyson used to let his fists do the talking for him.

Now his mouth has taken over the job. Once upon a time, he was the very symbol of the American dream, as a slightly modest, gentle boy from New York City’s poorer area who literally fought his way to the top. He ended up with the world at his feet as he held a championship belt over his head. In the 1980s, we’d sit up late into the night to watch Tyson win by a knockout just four seconds into a match. That was an era when the idea of Tyson ever losing a fight was simply inconceivable. But he did lose, eventually. Then he ended up behind bars. And when he got out, he took a bite out of Evander Holyfield’s ear. But there is another part of the American dream: The second chance. It’s fine to have been down and out, as long as you make an h ­ onest effort to get back on your feet and give in another shot. Tyson’s second chance is called the "Undisputed Truth," his movie memoir. Tyson is back in the ring, all alone this time, with a rollercoaster life of ups and downs to drawupon, with director Spike Lee as his ringside coach.

show: Mike Tyson pleide å la ­hendene snakke for seg. Nå har han det bare i kjeften. En gang var han symbolet på den ­amerikanske drømmen. Den litt spede, forsiktige gutten fra fattiggatene i New York som slo seg oppover og fremover, til han sto alene på toppen, med verden for sine føtter og tungvektsbeltet over hodet. Vi satt oppe til seine natta på 80-­tallet, bare for å se ham vinne på knock out etter fire sekunder, og der og da virket det utenkelig at Mike Tyson noen gang skulle tape en boksekamp igjen. Men det gjorde han. Og så havnet han bak lås og slå. Og da han kom ut igjen, tok han et jafs av øret til Evander Holyfield.

Men sånn er den amerikanske drømmen: Du får alltid et andre forsøk. Du kan ha vært i den mørkeste kjeller, så lenge du gjør et ærlig forsøk på å reise deg.

Mike Tysons andre forsøk heter «Undisputed Truth», og er Mike Tyson tilbake i ringen, denne gangen alene og med et helt liv av høye løft og dype fall å ta av, alt sammen regissert av film­ regissør Spike Lee.

MIKE TYSON: UNDISPUTED TRUTH Folketeatret, Storgata 21 (Enrance at Folkepassasjen) 29 March ››› folketeateret.no

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oslo Culture

homeward bound SkIING: one thing that’s nice about oslo, is that you don’t have to go far to hurl yourself down a steep slope. Yes, it can be tempting to spend a week at central European ski resorts; occasionally sip vin chaud in chamonix; rent a chalet in adelboden in Switzerland; eat apple strudel at St. anton in austria. it may even be tempting to head for hemsedal in norway, where the nightlife is wilder than any russian party - every weekend. But there's something about being able to go back to your own home after a day on the slopes. There's something about catching a tram back to civilisation and the Sunday roast. The hot toddy at the ski shack may not be very French, but it is very much part of the story. a severe storm in 1930 literally paved the way for development of oslo Vinterpark by blowing down scores of trees, thus clearing the land. in the 76 years since the first ski lift north of the alps opened in 1938, it has been a favourite destination for the people of oslo, and currently offers 18 slopes and 11 ski lifts just a short hop from all the comforts of city life.

PÅ SkI: oslo er fint sånn: Du trenger ikke reise ut av byen for å kaste deg nedover bratte heng. Joda, det kan sikkert være fristende med ei uke i mellomeuropeiske skibakker. Drikke vin chaud i chamonix, legge seg inn på chalet i adelboden i sveits, spise apfelstrudel i st. anton i Østerrike. Det kan til og med være fristende å dra til Hemsedal, der nattelivet er villere enn en hvilken som helst russefest – hver helg. men: Det er noe med å kunne dra hjem til seg selv også, etter en lang dag i bakken. ta trikken tilbake til sivilisasjonen og søndagssteken. toddyen på skistua er kanskje ikke så veldig fransk, men den er en del av historien, den også. traseen, som nærmest ga seg selv etter at en sjeldent sterk storm i 1930 rev trær opp med røttene og la store områder brakk, har i de 76 årene som har gått siden den sto ferdig som verdens første nord for alpene, vært en av oslofolkets fremste utfartsdestinasjoner, og inkluderer i dag 18 bakker og 11 skiheiser. og hjemme venter badekaret.

OSLO VINTERPARk Metro line 1 towards Frognerseteren. get off at Voksenkollen station, and take bus 03-048 to the winter park at Tryvann. ››› oslovinterpark.no

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Straight from the tap The bar: Crow Bar is Oslo’s latest microbrewery, on a street that was long known just for its kebab shops. The first thing you see when you walk in are silver barrels on a large platform, towering over the room. Behind the bar hangs a blackboard listing more than 20 beers. Five of them are brewed in-house, as any microbrewery with a little self-respect must do.

One of the brews is called Corneille, a citrusy beer with a name that also means "crow" in French. The crow theme here is consistent, with these birds found everywhere: at the bar, on the taps, on the barrels or on the wall in the back garden. The only place crows don’t appear, thankfully, is in the food. Instead, chef Nicolas Ripouteau put together a menu consisting of only five dishes: homemade potato chips, kebabs, a cheese plate, and pork rinds plus suckling pig roasted whole, which must be ordered a few days in advance. The dining area is upstairs, which is a bit different from the ground floor with long tables, easy chairs and an alcove that can be used for beer tasting. If you like to see how beer is brewed, you’re in luck: Large windows overlook the brewing and cold storage area.

Baren: Crowbar er Oslos siste mikrobryggeri, i ei gate som lenge bare har vært kjent som kebabgata. Det første du ser er de store sølv­tønnene, ruvende over rommet fra en stor plattform. Bak baren henger en tavle, med liste over mer enn 20 ølsorter. Fem av dem brygges på stedet, slik alle vaskeekte mikrobryggerier må kunne skilte med – en av dem er den såkalte Corneile, et sitrusfylt øl som også betyr kråke på belgisk.

Kråketemaet er gjennomført: Kråka går igjen her inne, enten det er på disken, tappe­kranene, tønnene eller på veggen i bakgården. Det eneste stedet den ikke dukker opp er – heldigvis, kanskje – i menyen. I stedet har kokk Nicolas Ripouteau satt sammen en liten meny bestående av kun fem ­retter: hjemmelaget potetgull, kebab, ostetallerken, fleskesvor og ­helstekt pattegris, sistnevnte må dog bestilles noen dager i forveien.

Maten inntas i andre etasje, en etasje litt ulik grunnplanet: langbord, lenestoler og et avlukke som kan brukes til ølsmaking er lagt til denne etasjen, i tillegg til restauranten. Om du dessuten er av dem som liker å se hvordan gjæret brygg lages, er det ingen her som har tenkt å nekte deg det: Store vinduer peker inn til bryggings- og kjølerom.

CROW BAR Torggata 32

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oslo City living

A straight line The idea of “all in one place" took on a new meaning after the F5 concept clothing store opened last summer. «Alt på ett sted» har fått en ny betydning etter at klesbutikken F5 Concept Store åpnet sist sommer.

Shopping: Shop, design studio, factory, showroom. The F5 Concept Store is all of these things, which makes the trip from drawing board to sewing table to check-out counter a very short one. Three brothers, Alexander, Emil and Benjamin Krystad Marthinsen, and their childhood friend Philip Wibe, are behind the idea. The brothers are also behind the clothing brands Arctander and GRAA, and if any of this rings a bell it may be because, two years ago, the trio of brothers were heavily involved in the design, construction and operation of the shop KVARDAG at popular Oslo department store Steen & Strøm. The idea behind F5 is something like this: Gather some of the most creative and talented forces in the Norwegian fashion industry under one roof, and become a forum where designers can develop, produce and sell clothes, shoes and accessories. In general, the brands are Norwegian, and include Haaning & Htoon, Mardou & Dean, C/Bruerberg, as well as the already mentioned Arctander and GRAA.

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Shopping: Butikk, designstudio, fabrikk, showroom: F5 Concept Store er alt dette, hvilket gjør veien fra tegnebord via symaskin til kasse temmelig kort – noen få meter, bare, i alle fall i luftlinje. Bak konseptet står tre brødre: Alexander, Emil og Benjamin Krystad Marthinsen, samt deres barndomsvenn Filip Wibe. Brødrene står også bak de to kles­ merkene Arctander og GRAA, og dersom noe av det låter kjent, er det fordi brødrene for to år siden var tungt inne når det kom til å designe, bygge og drive butikken KVARDAG på Steen & Strøm. Visjonen bak F5 er omtrent som dette: samle noen av de mest kreative og dyktige kreftene i norsk motebransje under ett og samme tak, og være en arena hvor designere både kan utvikle, produsere og selge klær, sko og tilbehør. I all hovedsak er det norske merker det går i: ­Haaning & Htoon, Mardou & Dean, C/Bruerberg, samt de nevnte Arctander og GRAA.

F5 CONCEPT STORE Øvre Slottsgate 5 ››› www.facebook.com/ F5ConceptStore

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OSLO Food

A local produce

Local food has become widespread. In Norway’s capital, the restaurant Oslo Spiseforretning blazed the trail over a decade ago. / Kortreist mat har bredt om seg.

I Oslo var det Oslo Spiseforretning som var først ute, for mer enn ti år siden.

Oslo spiseforretning Oslo gate 15 ››› oslo-spiseforretning.no

restaurant: The restaurant now called Oslo Spise­ forretning was already serving food when Nobel Literature Prize winner Knut Hamsun starved his way through the Norwegian capital, then named Kristiania, in the 1800s while writing the acclaimed novel “Hunger.” Some 148 years after food service began on its premises at Oslo gate 15 in Gamlebyen, or Old Town, Oslo Spiseforretning is now run by western Norway native and restaurateur Jarle Baer, who carries on the tradition of food service, albeit in a very different way. In the 1980s and ‘90s, the establishment was known as a dive with cheap beer until Baer took over in 2001. He had ­experience from one of Oslo’s finest restaurants, Markveien Mat & Vinhus in the Grünerløkka neighbourhood, when he opened Oslo Spiseforretning 13 years ago and went for something ­completely different: Local food. He sought out Norwegian food direct from producers and sets his menus to harmonize with the seasons (Current seasonal special: Spawning cod called skrei in Norwegian).

“We have worked closely for many years with skilled, small-scale producers who see the value in providing quality ­produce,” says Baer. The result is a melange of locally produced meats and fish, cheeses, berries, root vegetables, put into combinations with an unmistakably Norwegian flavour.

“We tried to find local wines as well but gave that up in a hurry. So we just to have to seek forgiveness from our ­customers on that point,” says Baer.

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Restaurant: Det var i den tid Knut Hamsun gikk ­omkring og sultet i Kristiania, denne forunderlige by som ingen forlater før han har fått merker av den, at det som i dag er Oslo Spiseforretning i Oslogate 15 i Gamlebyen først startet serveringsvirksomhet. I dag, 148 år etter at dørene først åpnet, er det vestlending og restauranteier Jarle Baer som fører stedet videre, om enn i andre former enn tidligere. For mens stedet på 80-og 90-tallet var kjent som ei bule med billig øl, tok Baer i 2001 skjeen i en annen hånd: Med erfaring fra Markveien Mat-og vinhus på Grünerløkka åpnet han Oslo Spiseforretning og satset på det som for tretten år siden var noe helt nytt. Kortreist mat. Mat direkte fra leverandørene, og med en meny som er ment å harmonisere med årstidene (på menyen nå: skrei, denne havets indrefilet).

– Vi har arbeidet tett i mange år med dyktige småskala­ produsenter, som ser verdien i å levere kvalitetsråvarer, sier Baer. Resultatet er en melange av lokalprodusert kjøtt og fisk, oster, bær, rotgrønnsaker, satt sammen i kombinasjoner som smaker umiskjennelig norsk.

– Vi prøvde å finne lokal vin også. Men det ga vi fort opp.

Så der får kunden ha oss unnskyldt.

Entry tasks 2014 are out

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A new season / En ny årstid Winters are beautiful in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Røros. From 13 to 16 March, you can include the Winter Chamber Music Festival as one of this cold, white, former ­mining town’s many attractions.

After a long, dark winter, the festival has been dubbed “The Fifth Season,” with the transition between winter and spring offering something fresh and ­exciting: new music, the smell of tulips and a seasonal light you won’t soon forget.

På Røros finner du Norges vakreste vinter, og i perioden 13. til 16. mars finner du også ­Vinterfestspillene på denne hvite og kalde plassen. Optimistisk etter en lang og mørk vinter har festivalen fått tilnavnet «Den femte årstid», da den i skjærings­ punktet mellom to årstider byr på noe nytt og s ­ pennende. Nye musikk, lukt av tulipaner og lysspill man sjeldent glemmer. ››› vinterfestspill.no

Easter Sami-style / Påske på samisk

Photo NTB SCANPIX

After a long, dark polar winter, the sun once again shines upon the tundra. But before the reindeer herds can be moved to their summer pastures, the Sami like to get a few other matters out of the way, such as confirmations, weddings, baptisms and, not to be forgotten, the Sami Easter Festival. In the northern town of Kautokeino, Easter week is set aside for these festivities. This year, the dates are 17-20 April and, in addition to family rituals, music and theatre, there is obviously also lasso throwing, reindeer racing and loads of good food. It is said that the festival in Kautokeino is the largest gathering for Sami culture in Norway and is well worth checking out!

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Etter en lang vinter skinner sola igjen på vidda, men før reinsdyra flyttes til vårbeite, er det en del praktiske ting som kan være fint å få unna: konfirmasjoner, bryllup, dåp og – for ikke å glemme – samisk Grand Prix. I Kautokeino settes påskeuka av til disse festelige begivenhetene, og omtales i dag som Samisk påskefestival. Datoen er 17. til 20. april, og i tillegg til familiære ritualer, musikk og teater, blir det selvsagt lasso­kasting, reinkappløp og mye god mat. Det sies at festivalen i Kautokeino er det største samlings­punktet for samisk kultur i Norge, altså verdt å få med seg! ››› samieasterfestival.com

The weekend of 15-16 March is a really fun time to be in the winter sports mecca of Voss, which will once again host the World Cup Freestyle for skiing "moguls" with extra loud cheering from the sidelines. It is not without good cause that Voss is asked to host this international event year after year.” For us, it is a real seal of approval for the M ­ yrkdalen area, as well as for our club and willing volunteers from Voss,” says Harald Haaland, head of the event organising committee.

Helgen 15. og 16. mars er det veldig morsomt å være på Voss. Da er det igjen duket for World Cup i Freestyle, altså kulekjøring, og det jubles ekstra høyt i konkurransebakken. Det er ikke uten grunn at Voss år etter år blir spurt om å avholde denne inter­ nasjonale konkurransen. – For oss er det et kvalitetsstempel for anlegget i Myrkdalen, klubben vår og dugnads­ glade Vossingar, sier organisasjons­ komitélederen for konkurransen, Harald ­Haaland. ››› myrkdalen.no

Photo THINKSTOCK

Stylish skiing / Kjør stil

Watch out for: / Se opp for Who: Kyrre Lind-Issaksen What: Skipper of the sailboat “To Fluer,” 2008 to 2011 Why: The sailboat “To Fluer” (Two Flies) carried Lind-Issaksen and his crew on a three-year circumnavigation. Along the way, they blogged about their exciting journey, while raising funds for UNICEF. Now they have released a comprehensive book about their trip and are donating the entire 429 kroner (euro 51) purchase price to UNICEF and its efforts to build schools in Africa.

From reality / Fra virkeligheten

Photo NTB SCANPIX

Norway’s largest and oldest documentary film festival, Dokfilm in the town of Volda, runs from 23 to 27 April. The festival­brings together the best established documentary filmmakers, while also highlighting promising young talents. The festival is run by students at the Volda University ­who are versed in the finest tradition of documentary filmmaking.

Norges største og eldste ­ okumentarfilmfestival, Dokfilm i d Volda, snurrer i gang igjen 23. til 27. april. Festivalen samler det beste fra etablerte dokumentarfilm­skapere, samtidig som de hever unge, lovende talenter frem. Festivalen drives av studenter ved Høg­skolen i Volda, og er idealistisk i god ­dokumentarisk ånd.

Hvem: Kyrre Lind-Issaksen Hva: Kaptein på seilbåten «To fluer», 2008 til 2011 Hvorfor: «To fluer» er seilbåten som førte Kyrre Lind-Issaksen og hans mannskap jorden rundt i tre år. Parallelt blogget de om den spennende reisen, og hele tiden samlet de inn penger til Unicef. Det er blitt bok av den omfattende reisen, den koster 429 kroner og hele beløpet til­faller Unicef og deres arbeid for å bygge skoler i Afrika. ››› tofluer.com

Contemporary sound / Samtidstoner The western Norway city of Bergen celebrates contemporary sound with the festival Borealis. Sound is obviously the key word here, with everything from blues to noise put on the program: concerts, art, performances, DJ sets, film screenings, talks and lectures. This year, Borealis runs 19 to 23 March.

I Bergen feirer de samtidens toner gjennom festivalen ­Borealis. Lyd er selvsagt stikkordet, og her er alt fra blåtoner til bråk satt på ­programmet: konserter, kunstverk, performance, DJ-sett, filmvisninger, samtaler og foredrag. I år er Borealis 19. til 23. mars. ››› borealisfestival.no

››› dokfilm.no

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destination Norway Fishing in Lofoten

Go fish. Take a trip to Lofoten and try your luck with the fishing rod.

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Hope hangs by a thread Text and photos Kristin Folsland Olsen

Landing a 20 kilogram (44 pound) Lofoten cod is literally a wet dream for landlubbers and old salts.

So how about putting your buddies in their place during World Championship for Cod Fishing in Norway’s arctic ­Lofoten Islands this March? Å hale inn en 20 kilos lofottorsk er en våt drøm for både landkrabber og garva sjøfolk. Hva med å sette kompisene på plass under VM i ­ skreifiske i Lofoten i mars?

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It has to be huge!” calls out one fisherman.

“I feel a bite on my line too. I bet my fish is twice as big as yours,” retorts ­another.

The mood aboard the many fishing boats out on the waters of Vestfjorden off the ­Lofoten Islands is festive, to say the least.

This is World Championship for Cod Fishing and hundreds of eager fishermen are ready for a party and an enjoyable – and prestigious – competition some 220 kilometres (135 miles) north of the Arctic Circle.

app, jeg har napp! Dette må være en skikkelig sværing!

– Det napper i snøret mitt også! Jeg vedder på at fisken min er dobbelt så stor som din!

Stemninga ombord på de mange fiske­ båtene ute på Vestfjorden i Lofoten er mer enn livlig. Det avholdes VM i Skreifiske, og hundrevis av fiskelystne og festklare folk er klare for en lystbetont, men prestisjefull konkurranse på 68° nord.

bite, I got a bite!

a thousand years, the ­ ofoten Islands off northern Norway have L been the centre of the world’s richest codfishing season – and they still are. These ­arctic cod – called skrei in Norwegian – set off every winter from the Barents Sea north of Norway to the Lofotens to spawn. Skrei, a name Norwegians use to describe cod ­during

For more than

›

I mer enn tusen år har Lofoten vært s­entrum for v­erdens største torskefiske – og er det fremdeles. Den norsk-arktiske­ torsken, eller skreien, som den ­ kalles, ­legger hver ­vinter ut på en lang svømmetur fra ­ Barentshavet og ned til ­ Lofoten for å gyte. ­­ Ordet skrei kommer av det gammel­norske ordet «skrida», som b ­ etyr å vandre.­Først når torsken er k ­ jønnsmoden i ­ seks-sjuårsalderen, gjør den disse l­ange

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Fishing in Lofoten

Imagine hauling a 20 kilogram (44 pound) whopper over the rail of a fishing boat that is bobbing around off the white-capped mountains.

Tenk deg å hale en 20 kilos rugg over ripa på en sjark som ligger og dupper blant hvitkledte, stupende fjell.

›

›

STOCKFISH

the spawning season, comes from the ­ancient Norse word skrida, which means “to wander.”

Only when the cod reaches sexual maturity, at age six or seven, do they head off on this long journey, ­following the same ­migration route as skrei have done for ­thousands of years, probably since the last ice age. At times, this migration brings a ­fishing boom to the coast of the Lofotens. A ­ fter 10 years of meagre catches, the fish have once again made their way to ­Vestfjorden, which is more like a large, open bay between the ­islands and the mainland, than a narrow fjord.

r­eisene. Skreien har fulgt det samme ­vandringsmønsteret i tusenvis av år, sannsynligvis helt siden siste istid. Dette har skapt tidvis eventyrlige fiskemuligheter utenfor Lofotens kyst. Etter en tiårsperiode med dårlige tider har fisken igjen funnet ­veien til Vestfjorden, og stemningen blant både yrkesfiskere og VM-deltagere er på topp.

A large portion of the cod catch on the Lofotens are air-dried on wooden racks to be cured into stockfish. The climate on the islands is perfect for producing cured fish of the highest quality. There has to be wind for the fish to dry well. It can’t be so cold that the fish are damaged by frost or so warm that they begin to rot or flies start laying eggs in the meaty parts.

After the cod is cleaned, they are tied together in pairs and hung from a round stock on wooden racks called hjell. The cod is hung up to dry in February/March and taken down in June.

Fish processing runs non-stop during the peak season. Fish are unloaded and gutted. The heads are strung onto lines to be dried separately. As in the old days, young people play an active role in the Lofoten fishery. Children cut off the cods’ tongues and sell them to acquaintances, as well as to local restaurants serving fried cod tongues as a delicacy. The hardest working youngsters can cut over 100 kilograms (220 pounds) of cod tongues a day. And such hard work pays: Some make up to 30,000 kroner (euro 3,600) per season.

When summer comes, it's time to take the fish down from the racks.

The fish have now lost about 70 per cent of their original weight. Before the fish can be shipped to markets, they must go through a painstaking sorting process called vraking.

Sorters judge the quality of each fish by sight, sense and feel. And not just anyone can do the sorting: It is an art that requires a lot of practice, and is a skill that is traditionally passed from one generation to the next.

Stockfish last for a very long time, and are easy to ship. Most of the exports are sent to Italy, Spain and Nigeria.

Perhaps the dried fish will end up at a fish market in southern Europe, where it might go into a rich and tasty bacalao, made with Italian gusto and sun-dried tomatoes.

who, like fishermen everywhere, tend to exaggerate the size of your catch just a little? Do your hands spread a bit wider apart than is strictly accurate to show the size of your catch while you claim, “No, really. It was this big.” Turn your tall tales into reality by spending a few days as a Lofoten fisherman! Prove yourself at the World Championship for Cod Fishing held in Svolvær every winter.

Before the contest opens, you draw lots to see which boat you will be on. There are 70-80 boats with professional crews that will take you out onto the seas of Lofoten.

When the starting gun sounds “row out” – the signal for the whole fleet to motor out to the fishing grounds – hundreds of ­spectators on the wharf boost the mood, while the l­ ocal brass band, called the Svolvær Musikk­ forening, keeps the beat.

Are you among those

it’s just a ­ atter of throwing out a line and seeing who m has the best karma. North Norwegians are ­convinced that you had to “get some” the night before to have good ­karma – they call it haill – for the day’s fishing.

The morning and early afternoon are spent out fishing. Imagine hauling a 20 kilogram (44 pound) whopper over the rail of a fishing boat that is bobbing around off the white-capped mountains that look like

Out on the fishing grounds,

›

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Er du en av dem som skryter på deg et par kilo ­ekstra når du forteller om fangsten fra din siste fisketur? Øker ­avstanden med en desimeter eller to når du viser med h ­ endene at fisken «seriøst var såååååå stor»? La skrønene­bli til virkelighet og prøv deg som Lofotfisker for et par dager! Vis hva du er god for under VM i skreifiske som avholdes i Svolvær hver vinter.

Før konkurransen settes i gang er det loddtrekning om hvilken båt man skal være med på. 70-80 ulike båter med profesjonelt mannskap skal ta med seg konkurranse­ deltagerne ut på Lofothavet. I det startskuddet går for «utror» – at båtene kjører samtidig­ut på fiske­feltene – står hundrevis av publikummere på kaia og skaper stemning, mens Svolvær Musikkforening ­ blåser taktfaste t­ oner .

er det bare å slippe ut snøret og se hvem som har best «haill».

Nordlendingene er nemlig overbevist om at skal du ha fiskelykke, må det ha «blitt noe på deg» kvelden i forveien!

Hele formiddagen blir så brukt ute på fiske­feltet. Tenk deg å hale en 20 kilos rugg over ripa på en sjark som ligger og dupper blant hvitkledte, stupende fjell. Omkring deg er verdens vakreste sceneteppe, og du kan spille hovedrollen denne dagen, bare det napper skikkelig snart! Om det n ­ apper fordi du er heldig, dyktig eller har godt «haill», spiller ikke så stor rolle, det som er viktig er at du får fisk, og at fisken er stor! Det kan nevnes at vinnertorsken fra ­konkurransen i 2013 veide hele 28,3 kilo.

Ute på fiskeplassen

›

>

1

2

(1) Goodbye. The fisherman's wife on the little island Skrove, just outside of SvolvĂŚr, waves goodbye as the men travel out to sea. (2) High on protein.

Dried cod heads, also called guano, are exported to Nigeria.

(3) Local enthusiast. Arts and craft artist Cecilie Haaland lives in HenningsvĂŚr. She has her boat moored outside the living room window and goes out fishing as often as she can.

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Fishing in Lofoten

•

(1) Italy next. Dried and sorted fish gets stacked on pallets and exported to South Africa. (2) carefully selection process. Each fish is assessed and sorted into different qualities. This is called "rejection".

(3) just hanging. Pairs of cods are tied together and hung over a round log on the fish racks to dry.

1

2

FAcTS THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS

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they have burst out from the sea. You’re on a spectacular stage and could win a leading role today if only they take the bait. Whether they would start biting because you are lucky, skilled or just have good karma, doesn’t make any difference. What matters is that you catch fish and that they are big. Just so you know: The winning fish in 2013 weighed 28.3 kilograms (62.4 pounds).

er omme, vender alle båtene tilbake til Svolvær hvor fisken leveres på fiskebruket for måling og veiing. Det konkurreres i både største torsk, og største totale fangst. Når alle båtene har levert fangsten, og dommerne er ferdig med papirarbeidet, kan verdensmesteren i skreifiske kåres, og festen begynne!

WHen THe TIme lImIT runs out, all the boats head back to the village of Svolvær, where the catch is measured and weighed. Competitors vie for the biggest single fish as well as the biggest total catch. When all boats have delivered their catch and the judges finish the paperwork, the new world champion in cod fishing is crowned and the party can begin.

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getting there: Fly direct to Evenes Airport near the town of Harstad with the airlines Norwegian or SAS. Bus or car from Evenes. The drive to the village of Svolvær on the island takes just over two hours. accommodations: The main town of Svolvær offers a variety of hotels and fisherman cabins called rorbuer. If you want to stay in a smaller place while still being close to the championships, try the villages of Kabelvåg and Henningsvær. lofoten.info guidebook: The Norwegian book ”Turguide Lofoten – 50 flotte turer i verdens vakreste øyrike” describes a variety of hikes with illustrations. Lonely Planet, Frommer’s and others cover the Lofoten Islands in English. >>> visitnorway.com/lofoten

nÅr Den gITTe TIDsfrIsTen

VM I SkREIFISkE: World Championship for Cod Fishing 2014 runs 28-29 March in Svolvær.

The winning cod in 2013 weighed 28.3 kilograms (62.4 pounds). Can you beat that?

Fastest way there Harstad/Narvik : Up to five daily flights with Norwegian, and up to three with SAS (1 hour, 40 minutes).

w w w. d e hi s t o r i s k e . c o m

PHOTO: GUNN GRAVDAL ELTON OG ØYSTEIN KLAKEGG

Scattered across

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TA K E YOU R ST ORY H OM E

destination norway GO! Photo thinkstock

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Svalbard. Before you get here, this island is just a thought, a dream, a fantasy.

The arctic tour The longest domestic flight in Norway goes from Oslo to Longyearbyen.

Norges lengste innenriks flyrute går fra Oslo til Longyearbyen på Svalbard.

Svalbard is so beautiful when you're sitting at home with Google, a cappu­c­ cino and brand new Nordic ski boots.

Then you travel north. You fly at 900 km/h for three long hours. Had you travelled southwards, you would have come to Nice, to the azure blue ­Mediterranean, umbrella drinks and tiny swimming trunks. Now you've landed in a completely different place. They call it Longyear City, but there is no city, which you'll notice from the bus when leaving the airport. All around, you see huge cranes hovering over freezing seas; old mine entrances; sewer pipes on top of the soil. Everywhere you look there's iron, coal, old remains. At the same time, the nature here is so great, so beautiful, so overwhelming. And maybe you think: this sure is ­different. Welcome to Longyearbyen, North Pole´s own suburb.

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Svalbard er så vakker når du sitter hjemme med Google, cappuccino og splitter nye skistøvler. Så reiser du nordover. Du flyr i 900 km/t i tre lange timer. Hadde du reist sørover, hadde du kommet til Nice. Til azurblått ­Middelhav, paraplydrinker og litt for små badebukser. Nå lander du et helt annet sted. De kaller det Longyearbyen, men det er ingen by. Du sitter i bussen fra flyplassen og lurer på hva det ­egentlig er. Her står enorme heisekraner over iskaldt hav. Her står gamle gruveinnganger til nedfalls i vinden. Her ligger kloakkrørene oppå jorda. Overalt er det jern, kull, ruiner.

Samtidig er naturen så stor, så vakker, så overveldende.Og kanskje tenker du: Dette er jammen annerledes. Vel­ kommen til Longyarbyen.­Nordpolens egen drabantby.

Facts The world's northernmost town.

Population: 2,000.

Named after John Munro Longyear, whose Arctic Coal Company started coal mining operations here in 1906.

Fastest way there Longyearbyen: Three

weekly departures with Norwegian and two with SAS (2 hours, 50 minuntes).

Non-Stop Northern Lights Chase every single evening!

00 .m.

The disclaimer will also inform you that all pictures we take during your excursion will be available for free on our Facebook page just a couple of days later. You are welcome to copy and share all pictures with your friends and family.

From September 15th to March 31st, Arctic Guide Service takes you on a Non-Stop Northern Lights Chase in search of the magnificent Aurora Borealis.

ur

The photographer and Arctic Guide Service, however, own the copyright of all pictures. By posing for our photographers you are therefore automatically giving us the right to publish the pictures on our Facebook page, use in our advertising, and perhaps sell to a third party.

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We p.m We the gui eve new late of a

So if you do not want such pictures to become the property of the photographer and Arctic Guide Service, please do not pose for our guides and photographers.

How does it work?

Once in Tromsø, simply visit our Arctic Guide Service office right behind the reception of Radisson Blu Hotel (Bankgata 1, 9008 Tromsø). We open from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. every day – and that includes weekends and Holidays.

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Our staff will show you the latest Aurora and weather forecasts for at least ten different spots around the city.

We can reach some of these spots in only an hour, while others are a two-and-a-half hour drive away.

What happens next?

Photography

If you decide to join, you pay NOK 950 per Adult, NOK 800 per student and NOK 475 per Child. You will then receive your boarding pass and your disclaimer.

Your disclaimer will tell you, among other things, that once we reach our destinations by bus or minibus, there will be a walk of around ten minutes on rocks, ice and snow to reach the magical places where we will wait for Lady Aurora.

Your safety is of utmost importance to us, so please walk very slowly during these five to ten minutes, even if Lady Aurora is already showing. Please bear in mind that if your leg sinks between rocks hidden by snow while walking slowly, all you have to do is take your leg out and continue walking. If the same thing happens while you are walking quickly, there is a very real risk that you could break your leg. So please walk slowly!

If you would like to take your own Aurora pictures, we strongly recommend that you get the new Canon 6D camera which has excellent ISO values with very little noise up to 3200 ISO. We also recommend that you buy a sharp F 2.8 wide angle lens like the Nikon 14 to 24mm F 2.8, or the Samyang 14mm F 2.8. Please remember to use only manual settings (no stabilizer or auto focus).

The weather can be completely different from spot to spot - they are all in different directions and each has its own micro-climate – but we usually find a place with clear skies from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m., which is when Lady Aurora typically shows herself. There is, however, the occasional evening when the chance of clear skies is low. In these rare cases, our staff might recommend that you try again another evening. whosingle is willing to But as long asNorthern we have even oneChase person Nonstop Lights every evening join the search, the chase will be on!

You will be thoroughly in Tromsø Norway! informed about the possibility of experiencing the Lights, excursions and everythen day from 2pm to whether 6pm and theCheck-in numberforofour participants, you decide at our Arctic Guide Service office right behind the reception of or not you want to take part.

You will also need a solid stand (tripod), a remote shooter, a level, and a second battery (please do not forget your battery charger at home).

You can also download Capture One to your computer to edit your raw pictures and make them even more beautiful.

Our guides will give you more tips during your excursion.

Adu

To get the most out of this experience, it is essential that you are properly dressed. We recommend that you wear woollen underwear, with fleece as your second layer, a woollen pullover as your third layer, and expedition or skiing jacket and pants as your outer layer. You also need mittens, a woven hat, and snow boots.

And at t

The disclaimer will also inform you that all pictures we take during your excursion will be available for free on our Facebook page just a couple of days later. You are welcome to copy and share all pictures with your friends and family.

The photographer and Arctic Guide Service, however, own the copyright of all pictures. By posing for our photographers you are therefore automatically giving us the right to publish the pictures on our Facebook page, use in our advertising, and perhaps sell to a third party.

So if you do not want such pictures to become the property of the photographer and Arctic Guide Service, please do not pose for our guides and photographers.

What happens next?

Photography

If you decide to join, you pay NOK 950 per Adult, NOK 800 per student and NOK 475 per Child. You will then receive your boarding pass and your disclaimer.

Your disclaimer will tell you, among other things, that once How does it work? we reach our destinations by bus or minibus, there will be a Once in Tromsø, simply visit our Arcticice Guide walk of around ten minutes on rocks, and Service snow tooffice reach right behindplaces the reception of Radisson BluLady Hotel (Bankgata 1, the magical where we will wait for Aurora.

9008 Tromsø).

We open from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. every day – and Your safety is of utmost importance to us, so please walk that weekends veryincludes slowly during theseand fiveHolidays. to ten minutes, even if Lady Aurora is already showing. Please bear in mind that if your Our staff will show rocks you the latestby Aurora weather leg sinks between hidden snowand while walking forecasts leastto ten spots around thecontinue city. slowly, allfor youathave dodifferent is take your leg out and We can reach some of these spots in only an hour, while walking. If the same thing happens while you are walking others a two-and-a-half hour drive quickly,are there is a very real risk that youaway. could break your leg. So please walk slowly!

The weather can be completely different from spot to spot - they are all in different directions and each has its own micro-climate – but we usually find a place with clear skies from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m., which is when Lady Aurora typically shows herself. There is, however, the occasional evening when the chance of clear skies is low. In these rare cases, our staff might recommend that you try again another evening.

But as long as we have even one person who is willing to join the search, the chase will be on! You will be thoroughly informed about the possibility of experiencing the Lights, and the number of participants, and then you decide whether or not you want to take part.

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Non-Stop Northern Lights Chase every single evening!

What happens next?

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Clothing

Radisson Blu hotel (Bankgata 1, 9008 Tromsø).

We start boarding at 6:15 pm and depart at 6:30pm.

From September 15th to March 31st, Arctic Guide Service takes you on a Non-Stop Northern Lights Chase in search of the magnificent Aurora Borealis.

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If you decide NOK 950 pictures, per Adult,we NOK 800 If you would like to join, take you yourpay own Aurora per student and NOK YouCanon will then strongly recommend that475 youper getChild. the new 6Dreceive yourwhich boarding and your disclaimer. camera has pass excellent ISO values with very little noise Your disclaimer you, among other that once up to 3200 ISO. We will alsotell recommend that youthings, buy a sharp F we reach our destinations by bus or 24mm minibus, there 2.8 wide angle lens like the Nikon 14 to F 2.8, or will the be a walk of14mm around tenPlease minutes on rocks,to iceuse andonly snow to reach Samyang F 2.8. remember manual the magical placesor where will wait for Lady Aurora. settings (no stabilizer auto we focus).

Your safety is of utmost importance to us, so please walk Youvery will also need a solid stand a remoteeven shooter, slowly during these five(tripod), to ten minutes, if Lady a level, andisa already second showing. battery (please notinforget Aurora Pleasedo bear mind your that if your battery charger at home). leg sinks between rocks hidden by snow while walking slowly, all you have to do is take your leg out and continue Youwalking. can also Ifdownload One to while your computer to the sameCapture thing happens you are walking editquickly, your raw pictures andreal make evencould morebreak beautiful. there is a very riskthem that you your Ourleg. guides will give youslowly! more tips during your excursion.

So please walk

Clothing To get the most out of this experience, it is essential that you are properly dressed. We recommend that you wear woollen underwear, with fleece as your second layer, a woollen pullover as your third layer, and expedition or skiing jacket and pants as your outer layer. You also need mittens, a woven hat, and snow boots.

disclaimer will also inform you that all pictures we take TheThe Chase during your excursion will be available for free on our We kindly request that you arrive at our offices around 6:00 Facebook page just a couple of days later. You are welcome p.m. We begin boarding at 6:15 p.m. and depart at 6:30 p.m. to copy and share all pictures with your friends and family.

We will drive to our first spot, stay for around 45 minutes, then return to our vehicle for a hot drink and cookies.

Our The photographer and Arctic Guide Service, however, own guides check theof weather and Aurora forecast updates the copyright all pictures.

By posing for our photographers every throughout the trip, so next weuswill a youhour are therefore automatically giving theeither right try to publish new spot or return to aFacebook previous page, location, on the the pictures on our usedepending in our advertising, latest usually having had the experience andinformation. perhaps sellAfter to a third party. of a lifetime, we return to our offices at around 1:30 a.m.

So if you do not want such pictures to become the property of the photographer and Arctic Guide Service, please do not pose for our guides and photographers.

After the Chase As friends on our Facebook page you will have continuous access to updates and new pictures.

You can also join a second Chase any time after your first even a year later! - at these special rates:

Clothing Adult: NOK 800,- Student: NOK 700,- Child: NOK 475,Toaget thefourth, most out of this experience, is essential that And third, or fifth Chase any timeitafter your second you are properly dressed. We recommend that you wear at these rates: woollen underwear, with fleece as your second layer, a Adult: NOK pullover 700,- Student NOK: 700,NOK 475,- or skiing woollen as your third layer,Child: and expedition jacket and pants your outer layer.the You also need mittens, This is regardless of as whether you saw Northern Lights or woven and snow boots. notaon yourhat, previous excursions!

Kind regards, arcticguideservice.com

N

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destination norway City secrets

Walking area. Once there was 36 shoemakers in this narrow street. Today there are none. But you can still buy a pair of shoes in one of the shops.

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bohemian bergen Text Per A. Risnes Jr photos Helge Skodvin

Bergen street Skostredet offers a respite from tour buses and the popular – albeit crowded – wharf. Skostredet er Bergens lille avbrekk fra bussturister og bryggeromantikk.

T

his is just what you want to find in a strange city:

A slightly offbeat bohemian area, teeming with life.

Small, creative boutiques, designers, and entertaining waterholes offer an urban oasis without Zara, Starbucks or McMurphy's in sight.

That street is not hard to find in western Norway’s B ­ ergen, but it is easy to miss. Just a few hundred metres from the ­famous fish market in Norway’s second city is ­Picturesque Skostredet, or Shoe Alley.

Around since the 1200s, it's a perfect street for meandering. The little stub of a street was named for German shoemakers who lived there during the Hanseatic League era, from around the 13th to 17th centuries. At one point, there were 36 shoemaker shops and a gateway at each end. Now there are none. For a long time it was one of the city’s forgotten backwaters, but has since blossomed into a street full of life, creativity and openness.

The company that owns the area has a policy of allotting space to local, independent businesses. The bar “Folk og Røvere” (Folk and Robbers), for example, has more than 50 co-owners and is located in what was once the offices of the Christian newspaper Dagen. And a few steps away is an open atelier with ties to dozens of artists.

Affordable rents and a strong spirit of volunteerism have turned the bumpy cobblestone street into a place where everyone knows everyone, but where strangers are just as welcome. brand new Litteraturhuset (Literature House) opened on the neighbouring street, giving the alley a boost, more attention and new kinds of visitors. The street still has a long way to go before it becomes a completely mainstream shopping venue. But already things are popping up, like yard sales, bazaars, intimate concerts, or other activities, like the Skranglefestivalen performance festival, that are on

The

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i en fremmed by. Det litt alternative bohem-området med små ­kreative butikker, designere, morsomme vannhull og myldrende liv. En urban liten oase uten Zara, Starbucks og McMurphys.

I Bergen er ikke den gaten vanskelig å finne. Men den er lett å gå forbi. Bare et par hundre meter fra Fisketorget, i et kronglete byområde der det har vært urbant liv siden 1200-tallet, ligger fargerike Skostredet.

Den lille gatestubben oppkalt etter tyske skomakere som holdt til her under Hansatiden, hadde en gang 36 skomaker­ boder og port i begge ender av gaten. I dag er det ingen.

Lenge var det også en av byens øde bakevjer. Men de siste ti årene har den blitt en kreativ, åpen og livlig gatestubb. et er det du alltid leter etter

Selskapet som eier hele området, har som politikk å slippe

til lokale og uavhengige bedrifter. Og det kan man merke.

Baren Folk og røvere for eksempel, som holder til i den kristne dagsavisen Dagens gamle lokaler, har mer enn femti deleiere. Og like ved ligger et åpent atelier med flere titalls kunstnere tilknyttet.

Overkommelige leiepriser og en sterk dugnadsånd har gjort den hullete brosteinsgaten til et sted der alle kjenner alle, men der alle andre er velkommen.

Det splitter nye Litteraturhuset som åpnet i nabogaten, har også gitt gaten en vitamininnsprøyting, mer oppmerksomhet og nye typer publikum. Men fortsatt har gaten et godt stykke igjen før den blir helt mainstream handlegate.

Plutselig er det et garasjesalg, en basar eller en intim huskonsert et eller annet sted i gaten. Alternative aktiveter som Bygdalarm og Skranglefetivalen har dukket opp som resultat av stemningen i gaten.

Stadig kan du oppdage noe helt nytt (eller noe flott brukt) i en av småbutikkene her. For eksempel i butikken

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City secrets

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(1) Street life. Quite often, when the weather permits, the shops and bars move out onto the cobble-stone street. (2) Rain men. Tailor and designer T Michael and his business partner ALexander Helle provide stylish rain wear for Bergeners. The retailers are loyal to the rugged street. (3) Rock the box.

The jukebox is an essential part of any diner, like here at the Wurlitzer at Rock & Roll Bar and Diner.

musts in Skostredet Milkshakes, burgers and Elvis on the jukebox at Rock & Roll bar and diner.

Vinyl records and T-shirts at Robotbutikken (Robot Shop).

Local design and art at the Made in Bergen shop.

Designer rainwear by ­Norwegian Rain and tailored suits by T Michael.

Concerts at the club Kavaler and BIKS (Bergen Inter­national Centre of Culture) with big bands for grownups and kids.

Fastest way there Bergen: Up to 16 daily flights

with SAS, and up to 15 daily flights with Norwegian (50 minutes).

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the schedule because of the new mood on the street.

til ­kommunikasjonsbyrået Made In Bergen som viser frem og selger unike ting laget av lokale designere og kunstnere.

Norwegian Rain har allerede blitt veteraner i gaten. Nå er regntøyet i luksusbutikker fra Osaka til Toronto. Men de tviholder likevel på tilknytningen til Skostredet. Som daglig leder i regntøymakerne Alexander Helle sier om Skostredet: – Det er det nærmeste du kommer Portobello Road i miniatyrformat!

some great new items (or great used ones) in one of the area’s many small shops. For example, art and d ­ esign agency Made in Bergen has a store that showcases and sells unique things made by local designers and artists.

Bergen is famous for its rain, and ­local retailer Norwegian Rain has already ­ ­become one of the street’s veterans. Today ­Norwegian Rain's attire can be found in luxury shops from Osaka to Toronto, but they still cling to their connection to Skostredet.

As N ­ orwegian Rain creative director and manager Alexander Helle says about Sko­ stredet: “It's the closest thing to Portobello Road ­– in miniature!”

You can often find

Dinamo | Foto: Marcel Leliënhof / Tinagent

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avIaTIon

BEFORE AND AFTER TAkE­OFF >>> 84 non-stoP routEs > 90 Go! > 92 tHrEE Hours

HORTEN, NORWAY

NORWAY'S FIRST FLIGHT norwegian marine officer hans Fleischer Dons was the first in the country to fly a norwegian aircraft. on the morning of 1 June 1912 Dons took off in his plane from Gannestadjordet outside horten. 35 minutes later he landed safely on øra at Fredrikstad. marineoffiseren Hans Fleischer Dons var den første nordmannen som fløy et norsk fly i norge.

På morgenen 1. juni 1912 satt Dons seg bak spakene på enkeltdekkeren Start og tok av fra Gannestadjordet på Borre i Horten. 35 minutter senere landet han trygt på Øra ved Fredrikstad.

PHoto NORSK TEKNISK MUSEUM

››› tekniskmuseum.no

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aviation News

Photo NTB SCANPIX / CORBIS

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The new aircraft Cessna Citation X has been named the world's fastest civil aircraft. During test flights it reached a speed of Mach 0.935 – about 1,126 kph (700 mph) – and, if all certifications are issued, the aircraft will enter normal service this year. The private jet can accommodate nine passengers and fly them between New York and London, Panama and São Paulo, Dubai and Singapore. The exclusive plane also flies higher than any other passenger jet and can climb over any bad weather at 15,545 metres (51,000 feet).

Det nye flyet Cessna Citation X er blitt kåret til verdens raskeste sivile fly. Under testflyvninger nådde det en hastighet på mach 0,935 – over 1100 kilometer i timen – og hvis alle tillatelser kommer i orden, blir flyet satt i drift i løpet av året. Privatflyet kan ta ni passasjerer og skal fly sine kunder mellom New York og London, Panama og Sao Paulo, Dubai og ­Singapore. Det eksklusive flyet flyr også høyere enn alle andre p ­ assasjerfly, og over alt dårlig vær, på 51 000 fot. ››› cessna.com

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Photo THINKSTOCK

The world's ­fastest airplane / ­Verdens raskeste fly

Heathrow seeks to reduce noise / Heathrow vil redusere støyen London Heathrow has set a goal of reducing noise pollution from the airport and has also launched the "Fly Quiet" project where each airline’s noise level is measured. Each quarter, a list of the noisiest and most quiet airlines will be released and the loudest airlines will be given help to cut noise. At the moment, British Airways is the quietest airline.

London Heathrow har satt seg som mål å redusere støyforurensingen fra flyplassen, og har blant annet lansert programmet «Fly Quiet» hvor hvert flyselskaps støy blir målt. Hvert kvartal offentliggjøres en resultatliste med flyselskapet som bråker mest og det som bråker minst, og støyende flyselskap vil bli hjulpet med tiltak. Foreløpig er British Airways flyplassens stilleste flyselskap. ››› heathrowairport.com

Photo THINKSTOCK

British Airways changes electronics rules / British Airways endrer reglene British Airways now allows passengers to use their mobile phones, tablets, laptops and other electronic devices during take-off and landing as well as in flight. Passengers can work, watch movies or play games during the entire trip as long as the devices are in ‘flight safe’ mode and are not being used to make calls or send e-mail. British Airways is so far the only European airline that has made use of the opportunity to ease restrictions on the use of electronics on board.

På British Airways’ flyvninger kan du nå bruke mobiltelefon, nettbrett, pc og annet elektronisk utstyr under avgang og landing. Passasjerene kan arbeide, se film eller spille under hele flyreisen, forutsatt at utstyret er i flymodus og ikke blir brukt til å ringe eller sende e-post. Foreløpig er British Airways det eneste europeiske flyselskapet som har benyttet seg av muligheten til å lette på ­restriksjonene for bruk av elektronikk om bord. ››› britishairways.com

The end for the longest flight / Slutt for verdens lengste flytur The world's longest non-stop flight, the Singapore-New York route, has landed for good.

The Singapore Airlines flight lasted 19 hours, covered 15,335 kilometres (9,528 miles) and burned 222,000 litres (roughly 50,000 gallons) of fuel per journey. The route opened in 2004, but was shut down at the end of 2013 due to increasing fuel costs.

Verdens lengste direkteflyvning mellom Singapore­og New York har nå landet for godt.

Singapore Airlines' direkterute varte i 19 timer, dekket en strekning på 15 335 kilometer og krevde 222 000 liter drivstoff per flyvning.

Ruten ble opprettet i 2004, men ble lagt ned på slutten av 2013 grunnet stadig økende driv­ stoffkostnader.

Photo THINKSTOCK

››› singaporeair.com

Future largest airport / Fremtidens største flyplass What is slated to be the world’s largest airport, Al Maktoum International Airport in Dubai, is now open to passengers. A Wizz Air flight from Budapest was the first in regular traffic to land on the runway and several airlines have now also opened routes. The huge airport is to have five runways and will eventually be able to handle 160 million passengers per year.

Det som etter planen skal bli verdens­største flyplass, Al ­Maktoum International Airport i Dubai, har nå åpnet for passasjertrafikk. Wizz Airs flyvning fra Budapest var det første flyet i ordinær trafikk som landet på rullebanen, og flere flyselskaper åpner nå sine ruter. Den enorme lufthavnen får fem rullebaner og skal etter hvert kunne håndtere 160 millioner ­passasjerer hvert år. ››› dwc.ae

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Aviation Non-stop routes

Photo NTB SCANPIX

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The big growth. In 1998, there were 61 non-stop flights from Oslo Airport.

At the start of 2014, there were 136.

Six more are expected during the year.

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The Non-stop Success Text Marianne Alfsen photos ntb Scanpix / corbis

Never before has it been possible to fly directly to as many international destinations from Oslo Airport, with 15 new non-stop routes in 2014. Aldri før har det vært mulig å fly direkte til så mange steder i utlandet fra Oslo lufthavn. 2014 byr på 15 nye ruter.

I

t’s 6:30 a.m. The date is 8 October 1998. An SAS air­liner

is full of smiling people, headed for Stockholm in ­T-shirts reading “First Flight Out.” They have the ­honour of opening Norway’s new national airport, or so they think. Their SAS plane is not quite ready, because of refuelling. Capt.

Tord Tangvik, in the cockpit of an aircraft from rival Color Air, is ready for take-off to Ålesund in 10 minutes. He asks the tower for clearance to leave on time and gets it.

That’s how a domestic route horned in on OSL’s opening ceremony. But international routes made a strong comeback and are a defining element in Oslo Airport’s development.

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lokken er 06.30, 8. oktober 1998 . Glade passasjerer sitter klare i en SAS-maskin med destinasjon Stockholm – iført T-skjorter med påskriften «First Flight Out». De skal få æren av å åpne den nye hovedflyplassen.

Men SAS-maskinen er ikke helt klar, drivstoff må etterfylles.

Kaptein Tord Tangvik i Color Air sitter utålmodig og ser at hans egen avgangstid til Ålesund, 10 minutter senere, nærmer seg. Han ber tårnet om å få lette i rute. Og det får han.

Det var altså en innenlandsrute som kuppet åpnings­ seremonien. Siden har utenlandsrutene tatt revansj og vært definerende for Oslo Lufthavns utvikling.

Explosive growth. In 1998, there were 61 non-stop flights from Oslo Airport. At the start of 2014, there were 136 with six more expected during the year.

“10 years ago, we didn’t have a direct route to Berlin. Now, the airlines Norwegian, Air Berlin and SAS all fly there, with up to six departures a day,” says Nic Nilsen, Oslo Airport's man­aging director. Color Air is now history, but it was low-cost c­ arriers like them that spurred development of non-stop services.

“There was already a market, but by introducing non-stop flights and low fares at the same time, they also created a new market that changed Norwegians’ travel habits. In the past, you couldn’t dash off to Prague for a long weekend, ­because the price was too high and it took a whole day. Now, it is both affordable and practical,” says Frode Steen, a ­professor of economics at the Norwegian School of Economics, NHH.

Eksplosiv vekst. I 1998 var det 61 direkteruter fra Oslo Lufthavn. Ved inngangen til 2014 var tallet 136, og seks nye starter i løpet av året.

– For 10 år siden manglet vi en direkterute til Berlin. I dag flyr både Norwegian, Air Berlin og SAS dit, opp til seks ganger­ daglig, forteller direktør Nic Nilsen ved Oslo Lufthavn.

Color Air er historie, men det er nettopp slike lavpris­ selskaper som satte fart i direkterutetilbudet: – Det lå et marked der, men ved å introdusere direkte­ruter og lave priser samtidig, skapte man også et nytt marked­som endret nordmenns reisevaner. Før kunne man ikke stikke av på en langhelg til Praha, prisen var for høy og det tok en hel dag å komme seg dit. Nå er det både økonomisk og praktisk mulig, sier professor Frode Steen ved Norges Handelshøyskole.

Holiday travel dominates. The airline Norwegian’s entry

Feriereiser dominerer. Særlig Norwegians inntreden i lavprismarkedet satte fart i utviklingen. Selve forretnings­

into the low-cost market was especially important in speed-

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Non-stop routes

Budget airlines are more willing to try a new route and shut it down if it doesn’t work.

Lavprisselskapene er i større grad villige til å prøve ut en ny rute og legge den ned hvis den ikke funker.

Frode Steen, professor of economics at NHH

Frode steen, professor ved Norges Handelshøyskole

›

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ing up development, with its business model of offering ­international direct flights. More budget airlines are popping up and network airlines like SAS have had to expand offerings to keep pace.

“In 2006, about 20 non-stop routes disappeared because SAS decided to use Stockholm for such connections. But Norwegian's growth forced the opening of new routes from Norway,” says Steen.

A survey by Norwegian state airport operator Avinor shows that leisure travellers account for much of the traffic growth. Such travellers don’t need as frequent departures or co­ordinated connections offered by network airlines, so they are the main targets for the low-cost, direct or nonstop market.

ideen var å frakte folk direkte til utlandet. Stadig nye lavprisselskaper er kommet til, og nettverksselskaper som SAS har måttet utvide tilbudet for å henge med.

– I 2006 forsvant et 20-talls direkteruter, etter at SASledelsen bestemte at Stockholm skulle være utgangspunkt for deres direkterutemarked. Men Norwegians vekst tvang frem nye ruter fra Norge, forteller Steen.

Ifølge Avinors reisevaneundersøkelser er det særlig fritidsreisende som står for trafikkveksten. De er ikke avhengige av hyppige avganger eller koordinert transfer, slik nettverksselskapene tilbyr, og er derfor lavpris- og direkterutemarkedets hovedmålgruppe.

“Budget airlines are more willing to try a new route and shut it down if it doesn’t work.

They adapt faster than network airlines, since they don’t depend on coordinating with others,” says Steen, adding that travellers also keep finding new places to go. That’s why budget carriers often have seasonal routes.

Europe is no longer the only playground for affordable companies.

“The trend now is for budget airlines to fly farther. They have also begun to compete with the network companies on long-haul routes,” says Steen. According to Avinor’s survey, New York tops the list of popular intercontinental non-stop routes, followed by Bangkok and Dubai (2011 figures).

“The new long-haul routes have been important for ­Norwegians’ travel habits because travel time to a number of destinations has been cut and far more destinations can be reached with only one change of aircraft,” says Nilsen.

The past year Norwegian has opened new inter­continental direct flights to New York, Bangkok and Fort Lauderdale. In 2014, the airline also opens routes to Los ­Angeles, Oakland/ San Francisco and Orlando, amongst others.

Longer and longer flights.

SAS: Half of the new routes. “When new routes and ­ estinations are launched, a solid analysis of travel be­ d haviour and market bases are behind them, so we get more routes that people want and it becomes profitable,” says Eivind Roald, executive vice president of sales and marketing for the SAS group.

In 2014, SAS will launch 14 new non-stop routes, in­ cluding nine from Oslo Airport in a heavy investment in

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– Lavprisselskapene er i større grad villige til å prøve ut en ny rute og legge den ned hvis den ikke funker. De kan også omstille seg kjappere enn nettverksselskapene, da de ikke er avhengig av å koordinere seg med andre, påpeker Steen, og legger til at det ligger i det nye reisemønsterets natur at vi stadig vil reise til nye steder. Derfor tilbyr ofte lavprisselskapene enkelte ruter kun i perioder.

Europa er ikke lenger lavprisselskapenes eneste lekegrind.

– Trenden nå er at lavprisselskapene reiser lengre og ­lengre. De har nå også begynt å konkurrere med nettverksselskapene i langdistansemarkedet, sier Steen.

Ifølge Avinors reisevaneundersøkelse topper New York listen over den mest populære interkontinentale direkte­ rutene, fulgt av Bangkok og Dubai (tall fra 2011).

– De nye langrutene har hatt stor betydning for nordmenns reisevaner, ved at reisetiden til en rekke reisemål er blitt kortet ned, og at man når mange flere destinasjoner med bare ett flybytte, påpeker Nic Nilsen.

Det siste året har Norwegian åpnet nye interkontinent­ ale direkteruter til New York, Bangkok og Fort Lauderdale.­ I 2014 åpner flyselskapet også ruter til blant annet Los ­Angeles, Oakland/San Fransisco og Orlando.

Flyr lengre og lengre.

SAS: Halvparten av de nye rutene. – Når nye ruter og ­ estinasjoner startes, ligger det solide analyser av reise­ d vaner og markedet i bunnen, slik at vi får ruter dit folk faktisk­vil reise og det blir lønnsomt, forteller konsern­ direktør for salg og marked i SAS, Roald Eivind.

I 2014 lanserer SAS 14 nye direkteruter, ni av dem fra Oslo Lufthavn. SAS har satset stort i fritidsmarkedet, og har de

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Top 10 international destinations

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1. Copenhagen 2. Stockholm 3. London 4. Amsterdam 5. Paris 6. Frankfurt 7. Berlin 8. Helsinki 9. Gran Canarias 10. Munich

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(The most popular destinations from OSL in 2013 measured in numbers of passengers.)

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(1) Copenhagen. The Danish capital is non-stop destination number one from Oslo Airport. (2) Paris.

City holidays are the most popular non-stop routes. (3) The p 足 rofessor.

Frode Steen, Norwegian School of Economics. (4) Gran Canarias: Norwegians love travelling to sunny beaches. (5) The SAS boss. Eivind Roald, executive vice president of sales and marketing for the SAS group.

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Non-stop routes

Photo oslo lufthavn as

(1-3) Popular non-stop desti­ nations. Larnaca, Hamburg and Los Angeles are all cities you can travel non-stop to from Oslo Airport.

(4) The boss. Nic Nilsen, m ­ anaging director at Oslo Airport. (5) The senior adviser. Jon Inge Lian of Avinor's strategy department.

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SAS Edinburgh: Opens 10 April, 2 departures a week.

Aalborg: Opens 30 March, 3 departures a week.

Chania: Opens 12 April, 1 departure a week.

Aberdeen: Opens 31 March, 3 departures a week.

Olbia: Opens 4 July, 1 departure a week.

Venice: Opens 2 July, 1 departure a week.

Pisa: Opens 28 June, 2 departures a week.

Larnaca: Opens 1 July, 2 departures a week.

Biarritz: Opens 1 July, 2 departures a week.

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Norwegian Los Angeles: Opens 1 June, 1 departure a week.

Madrid: Opens 3 June, 3 departures a week.

Orlando: Opens 29 May, 2 departures a week.

San Francisco (Oakland): Opens 28 May, 3 departures a week.

SunExpress Izmir: Opens 15 May, 1 departure a week.

Nextjet Växjö: Opened 3 March, 5 departures a week. ››› osl.no

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Photo avinor

New non-stop flights in 2014

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The airport being able to ­offer more than 140 direct routes out into the world gives us a unique position ­ in Norway.

At vi kan tilby mer enn 140 direkte­ruter ut i verden gir oss en unik posisjon i Norge. nic nilsen, direktør ved Oslo Lufthavn

Nic nilsen, Oslo Airport’s managing director

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the leisure market. In recent years, it has expanded its grid in the Mediterranean, in particular. Other news for 2014 includes Edinburgh, Aalborg and Biarritz.

SAS’ traffic experts have the last word on routes, but two years ago, SAS let its ­Facebook followers chime in, resulting in a summer route to Alanya, Turkey.

siste ­årene særlig økt rutenettet til Middelhavsområdet. Blant nyhetene i 2014 er Edinburgh, Aalborg og Biarritz.

Det er SAS’ trafikkeksperter som bestemmer rutenettet, men for to år siden fikk SAS’ tilhengere på Facebook også være med. ­Resultatet var en sommerrute til Alanya.

International airline t­ raffic continues to increase. But when will the market be saturated?

Senior adviser Jon Inge Lian, of Avinor's strategy department, says Norway’s airlines filled 67 per cent of their seats last year, a ­decline of 1.5 percentage points from 2012.

“The decrease is probably due to too many new routes. Generally, new routes generate more traffic. But the impact of new offerings probably declines as destinations become more marginal, with more frequent depart­ ures and prices that are so low that there is not much more to go on. Then it will largely be economic growth that drives development,” Lian says, adding that it is difficult to say when the market will hit the saturation point.

“Our goal is to become an even better airport, with even more routes to exciting destinations. The airport being able to offer more than 140 direct routes out into the world gives us a unique position in Norway.

There is still potential for more, as well as increased frequency on existing routes to seasonal destinations in the Mediterranean during the summer and Austria and Switzerland in the winter. But the most growth is expected on intercontinental routes to Asia and North America,” says Nilsen.

No matter what develops, Norwegians, like most people, are creatures of habit and often like to travel to familiar places. So Copenhagen, Stockholm and London are ­ still most popular non-stop routes.

ter å øke. Men når er markedet mettet?

Ifølge seniorrådgiver Jon Inge Lian i ­Avinors strategiavdeling klarte selskapene å fylle 67 % av setene i 2013, en nedgang på 1,5 % fra 2012.

– Nedgangen skyldes neppe for mange nye ruter. Generelt vil nye ruter generere mer trafikk. Men effekten av nye tilbud vil nok avta etter hvert som destinasjonene blir mer marginale, avgangene hyppigere og prisene nå er kommet så langt ned at det ikke er mye mer å gå på. Da vil det i hovedsak være den økonomiske veksten i samfunnet som ­driver utviklingen, sier Lian, og påpeker at det er vanskelig å forutsi når en slik metning vil skje.

– Vi har ambisjoner om å bli en enda bedre flyplass, med flere ruter til spennende destinasjoner. At vi kan tilby mer enn 140 direkte­ ruter ut i verden gir oss en unik posisjon i Norge. Det er fortsatt potensial for flere, samt økt frekvens på eksisterende sesongruter til middelhavsområdet om sommeren, og Østerrike og Sveits om vinteren. Men den største veksten forventes på interkonti­ nentale ruter til Asia og Nord-Amerika, sier Nic Nilsen.

Uansett hvordan tilbudet utvikler seg – nordmenn er vanedyr: Vi reiser fortsatt oftest til nære og kjære steder. København, Stockholm og London topper listen over de mest populære direkterutene.

Has it peaked?

Er toppen nådd? Utlandstrafikken fortset-

Facts Oslo Airport Opened in 1998.

Originally built to handle 17 ­million ­passengers a year.

Several measures were taken to meet increased traffic growth, most recently in 2009, when the terminal expanded eastward.

Current capacity to hold 23 million passengers.

Projections show that OSL will reach maximum capacity in 2016.

Expansion project started in 2011 for completion in the spring of 2017, with a near doubling of terminal area and 21 new aircraft stands.

In 2017, OSL will be able to handle 28 million passengers annually.

Cost estimate: Over 14 billion kroner (euro 1.68 billion).

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Aviation GO! Photo qantas airways

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Very long haul. The airline Qantas currently operates the world’s longest commercial airline route: A 13,804 km (8,758 mile) odyssey between Sydney and Dallas.

The world's longest flights How about a 13,804 kilometre (8,578 mile) non-stop flight?

Hva med å fly 13 804 km uten mellomlanding?

At the moment, Wikipedia says, the longest commercial, non-stop flight in terms of distance is Qantas' route between Sydney and Dallas. This flight covers no less than 13,804 km (8,578 miles) and takes 15 hours and 25 minutes, giving you more than enough time to see a film or two. But 15 hours and 25 minutes isn’t all that long compared to the record for longest flight measured in time. Some say Deutsche Lufthansa holds the record for a 24 hour and 56 minute flight that a Focke-Wulf FW-200 did from Berlin to New York in 1939, while others claim it was a 1957 flight by Trans World Airlines on a Lockheed L-1649 Starliner from London to San Francisco in 23 hours and 19 minutes.

The longest non-stop route from Oslo Airport flies to Bangkok and is 8,649 km (5,375 miles) long.

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Hva er verdens lengste kommersielle flyrute i distanse? Ifølge Wikipedia er det – akkurat nå – Qantas´ rute mellom Sydney og Dallas. Denne turen er på intet mindre enn 13 804 km og tar 15 timer og 25 minutter. Da rekker man å se en film eller to, for å si det sånn.

Likevel er ikke 15 timer og 25 minutter så mye sammenliknet med verdens lengste flyturer målt i tid: det diskuteres om rekorden holdes av Deutsche Lufthansa – som visstnok fløy et FockeWulf FW-200 mellom Berlin og New York på 24 timer og 56 minutter i 1939, eller av Trans World Airliners som fløy en Lockheed L-1649 Starliner mellom London og San Fransisco på 23 timer og 19 minutter i 1957.

Den lengste flyruten fra Oslo Lufthavn går til Bangkok og er på 8649 km.

Facts The current five longest flights measured in distance: Sydney-Dallas (Qantas), 13,804 km (8,758 miles) Johannesburg-Atlanta (Delta Air Lines), 13,582 km (8,439 miles) Dubai-Los Angeles (Delta Air Lines), 13,420 km (8,339 miles) Brisbane-Dallas (Qantas), 13,363 km (8,303 miles) Dubai-Houston (Emirates), 13,144 km (8,168 miles)

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aviation Three hours at the airport

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Paris direct Text John-Arne E. Gundersen photos ntb scanpix/corbis and Aéroports de Paris

Let’s be direct: It’s nice to be welcomed at Charles de Gaulle.

Det kan være direkte hyggelig å bli ønsket velkommen på Charles de Gaulle.

HOUR one

HOUR two

HOUR three

You can fly directly from Oslo Airport to over 100 places in the world and one of the most popular routes lands you at Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport. This is where, directly after landing, you can be welcomed by a personal assistant to help you with your luggage and guide you safely through the airport. You can even get shopping help along the way.

The service "La Conciergerie" can be ordered by any passenger and you can even choose to have your clothing laundered or have a bouquet of flowers sent to your loved ones.

Maybe it’s time to do something for yourself – for your ears in particular. Terminal 2E has a dedicated music lounge, Espace Musique, where you can sit inside a white ring that has speakers and a touch screen, allowing you to freely choose what music you want to stream directly at you. If you prefer films, the same terminal has a video lounge with 3D displays and chairs with built-in speakers so you can sit back and watch the film of your choice for free.

The time has come to direct your ­attention to hunger, your own hunger.

Take the elevator to the 11th floor of ­Terminal 1 where you will find the restaurant La Terrasse next to the Star Alliance lounge. The restaurant was designed by the famous French architect Philippe Starck and evokes a 1970s feeling with artificial grass, flower prints on the walls and plush red pillows. There you sit, with grilled shrimp and creamy risotto on your plate and a vintage wine in your glass, with a view of the runway through the large windows. And then, sated and drowsy, you can go directly to your flight.

1. TIME Fra Oslo Lufthavn kan du

fly direkte til over hundre steder i hele verden, og en av de mange populære direkterutene går til Paris lufthavn, Charles de Gaulle. Og der kan du, direkte etter landing, bli ønsket velkommen av en personlig assistent som hjelper deg med bagasjen og loser deg trygt gjennom flyplassen. Ja, du kan til og med få hjelp til å shoppe underveis. Tjenesten «La conciergerie» kan bestilles av alle passasjerer, og hvis du skulle ønske det, kan også klærne dine bli renset eller du kan få sendt en blomsterbukett til dine kjære.

2. TIME Nå er det kanskje på tide

at du gjør noe selv, og aller først skal du bruke ørene. I Terminal 2E ligger en egen musikklounge, Espace Musique, hvor du setter deg ned inne i en hvit ring som har både høyttalere og berøringsskjerm, og der kan du fritt velge hva slags musikk du vil skal strømme mot deg. Hvis du heller vil se film, ligger det i samme terminal en egen videolounge med 3D-skjermer. Også her har stolene innebygde høyttalere, og du kan bare lene deg tilbake og velge hvilken film du har lyst til å se, helt gratis.

3. TIME Du skulle vel ikke være

direkte … sulten? Ta heisen til 11. etasje i Terminal 1, så finner du restauranten La Terrasse ved siden av Star Alliance-­ loungen. Restauranten er designet av den kjente franske arkitekten P ­ hilippe Starck, og fremkaller en følelse av 70-tallet med kunstig gress, blomstertrykk på veggene og røde plysjputer.

Der kan du sitte, med grillede reker og kremet risotto på tallerkenen og en årgangsvin i glasset, og se ut gjennom de store vinduene mot rullebanene. Og så, mett og døsig, kan du gå direkte til flyet.

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Vega Havhotell Vega

Om atmosfære, utsikt og lyse lokaler bestyr noe for inspirasjonen - forlat det vanlige.

Om mat som smakfulle fiske- og skalldyrretter kan stimulere det gode liv - tenk på havet.

Om god søvn i myke senger har den minste betydning - velg et flott hotell.

Om jordnære omgivelser og omtanke påvirker deg - kom til Vega Havhotell.

Hjertelig velkommen til oss Beste hilsen Anna og Jon Aga

Vega Havhotell: Adresse: Viksås, 8980 Vega; Telefon.: 75 03 64 00; Telefax: 75 03 64 01; www.havhotellene.no

Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag / Irene Andessner /Werkgruppe: 19-Aigner1 (Carl Aigner) 2010, Impossible Sepia 20 x 24"

G A t E 5 text Gaute gjøl DAhle Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag

Eye

While modern technology advances, many of our ­beloved analogue inventions are being displaced.

“From P ­ olaroid to Impossible” is a book that ­celebrates ­Polaroid and its digital resurrection. ­Den moderne­ teknologiens fremmarsj har fordrevet mange ­for­tryllende og høyt e ­ lskede analoge oppfinnelser. ­ From P ­ olaroid to I­ mpossible er en bok som hyller Polaroiden o ­ g dens digitale ­gjennoppstandelse.

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Visualization Eye transfer Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Olivero Toscani

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Oliviero Toscani (1974): Andy Warhol with camera, Polaroid Type 105, 31/4 x 41/4", 1:1

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Edwin Land introduced his groundbraking Polaroid Land Model 95 in 1948. It soon became synonymous among amateurs and professionals as the-instant-photography-in-a-­ moment. There was no other image in the world that was more quickly in hand, on the table, in the album than a Polaroid.

With the introduction of digital photography that game changed. The most important advances in photography’s development were a question of speed. And the ability to share it with the world within a millisecond. For the professionals it became an important tool to have control over the shoot, since you didn‘t now what you had on film until after the shoot was over and the film came back from the lab. For the amateur it was pure magic.

Edwin Land introduserte sitt banebrytende ­ kamera Polaroid Land Model 95 i 1948. Det ble straks synonymt blant amatører og profesjonelle som «the-instant-photography­ in-a-­moment». Ingen andre bilder i verden fikk man raskere i hånden, på bordet eller inn i albumet enn et polaroidbilde.

Med innføringen av digital fotografering forandret reali­ tetene seg. Det viktigste fremskrittet i fotografiets utvikling ble et spørsmål om hastighet. Og evnen til å dele det med verden ­i løpet av et millisekund. For profesjonelle fotografer ble det et ­viktig verktøy for å ha kontroll over fotograferingen, siden du ikke visste hva du hadde på film før etter opptaket var over og filmen kom tilbake fra fremkalling. For amatører var det ren magi.

But digital technology fails to fullfill a ­natural need of humans – the desire to have a physical copy of the ­image and the memory. That is the real difference between analogue and digital photo­graphy and the reason why Polaroid still exists.

It‘s not a technically perfect photograph, and it‘s not possible to share it with the whole world in a split second. That doesn‘t matter however, when what's important is to have the powerful experience of seeing a real photograph develop in your hand.

And as Edwind Land said, “Ideally – all that should be necessary to get a good picture, is to take a good picture.”

Men den digitale teknologien er ikke i stand til å tilfreds­ stille et naturlig behov hos mennesker – behovet for å ha en fysisk kopi av bildet og minnet. Det er den reelle forskjellen mellom analog og digital fotografering, og grunnen til at P ­ ola­roid fremdeles eksisterer. Det er ikke et teknisk perfekt bilde, og det er ikke mulig å dele det til hele verden i løpet av et brøkdels sekund – men det spiller ingen rolle når det som er viktig, er å få den magiske opplevelsen av å se et ekte fotografi bli fremkalt i hånden. Og som Edwind Land sa; «Ideally – all that should be necessary to get a good picture, is to take a good picture».

ndy Warhol was an early adopter of selfies. The iconic Pop artist's work gave the Polaroid cred­ibility and became a renowned medium in the art world. Andy ­Warhol's portraits of celebreties and even royals like the ­Norwegian Queen Sonja are now infamous and responsible for igniting the Pop Art movement. Warhol's vision of culture and fame paved the way for the 21st Century's obsession with stardom.

Before the smartphone, internet and social media, ­people had the same urge to photograph each other and share with friends and acquaintances that we have today. At that time there was only one product that was able to instantly ­recreate the ­moment, the Polaroid camera. "From Polaroid to ­Impossible” is a book that celebrates Polaroid's ­heyday, and its resurrection.

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ndy Warhol var tidlig ute med å ta «selfies». Den ikoniske popart-kunstnerens arbeid ga Polaroid en viktig kredibilitet og ga mediet en anerkjent status ­ i kunst­ verdenen. Andy Warhols portretter av kjendiser og kongelige som norske dronning Sonja er ikoniske og skapte popart-kunstneren. Warhols visjon om popkultur og berømmelse passer rett inn med det 21. århundrets forkjærlighet for og fokus på kjendiser.

Før smarttelefonen, internett og sosiale medier hadde folk samme trang til å portrettere hverandre og dele det med venner og bekjente som vi har i dag. På den tiden var det bare ett produkt som var i stand til å umiddelbart gjenskape øyeblikket − polaroidkameraet. From Polaroid to Impossible er en bok som feirer polaroidkameraets storhetstid og gjenoppstandelse.

Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Miyako Ishiuchi

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Miyako Ishiuchi (1984): Untitled, from

the Series: High school classmates, Polaroid Polacolor 20 x 24"

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Eye transfer Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Ansel Adams

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Ansel Adams (1987): Self-portrait, Polaroid SX-70 31/2 x 41/4", 1:1

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Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Nancy Burson

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Nancy Burson (1988): Baby Marilyn, Polaroid Polacolor 20 x 24"

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Mary Ellen Mark (1987): Untitled, Polaroid Spectra 4 x 4"

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Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Mary Ellen Mark

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Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Shelby Lee Adams

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Shelby Lee Adams (1989): Lonnie Grimes, Polaroid Type 52 4 x 5", 1:1

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All Photos Hatje Cantz Verlag /William wegman

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(1,2) William Wegman (1987): UNTITLED, Polaroid Polacolor 20 x 24"

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All Photos Hatje Cantz Verlag /EJ Camp

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EJ Camp (2011): (1) Kate Gallagher II, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4" (2) Anita Sarko, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4" (3)

Din Yates, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4" (4) Lua Rios, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4" (5) Devinn Bruce, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4" (6) Tommy Gunn, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4" (7) Debbie Harry, PX 680 Color Shade FF 31/2 x 41/4"

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Eye transfer

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Photo Hatje Cantz Verlag /Tsuneo Enari

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Tsuneo Enari (1977): Family, Polaroid Type 808, 8 x 10"

Facts From Polaroid to Impossible, Masterpieces of instant ­photography, The WestLicht ­Collection The book, published in 2012 by the German publisher Hatje Cantz, is an inspiring celebration of instant photo­ graphy displaying 230 images of world-famous art and documentary photographers.

The Instant Lab. Some images are just too good to be buried somewhere on

your mobile phone. The Impossible Instant Lab develops any digital image into a real analogue instant photo via your iPhone. Select any photo from your iPhone, place it on the Instant Lab and within seconds it ejects your analogue photo. Then do as you used to: pin it to the wall or place it in an album with your best memories.

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In 2008, The Impossible Project saved the last Polaroid production plant for instant film, which was based in Enschede, NL. It then started to invent and ­produce totally new instant film ­materials for traditional Polaroid cameras. Since 2010, Impossible has saved analogue instant photography from extinction by releasing various brand new and unique instant films. >>> hatjecantz.de >>> the-impossible-project.com

Essential eyes and robotics - 3000 meters below sea surface Oceaneering clients get a critical set of eyes, arms and hands far below the sea surface with Remotely Operated Vehicles (ROVs). ROVs make drilling, inspection, maintenance and performing subsea tasks possible.

The Oceaneering MAGNUM® Plus ROV is a powerful cage deployed ROV system, fully equipped to operate at 3,000 meters depths. A tether provides power and fiber optics, while connecting the ROV to the deployment cage. At the subsea worksite, the ROV system is normally the first thing into the sea. ROV pilots direct the ROV from a control room to set the rig’s anchors.

Then the ROV crew surveys the seabed to oversee the environment and monitor any obstructions before commencing work.

Cameras displaying digital video in high definition or 3D images make up the ROV eyes. The ROV performs work with the help of two hydraulically powered robotic manipulator arms and provide movement and function similar to human movement of shoulders, elbows, wrists and hands.

Using the ROV, the pilot has strength and control for precise detail coordination during operations. Most subsea work, from site inspection to subsea equipment installation and drilling tasks, is assisted by the Oceaneering ROV crew from a control room or van on the surface asset.

The pilot flies the ROV from a complex control chair with a joystick in each hand.

Toggles, foot pedals, additional joysticks and a touch screen add more functions.

The pilot simultaneously controls the manipulator arms and cameras, tether payout / retraction, and thruster positioning

for directional change. Oceaneering ROV crews are vital players in the functioning of the rig and are in constant communication with key rig personnel during each stage of planning and operations.

The ROV crew is essential to subsea operations and without it, the ROV is just a machine. Everything the ROV monitors subsea, together with key operational data, is displayed in the ROV control room. A live video feed from the ROV can be transferred to remote sites, including customer offices, allowing team members to follow subsea operations in real time.

During the last 12 months, Oceaneering AS has accumulated a staggering 99,86% uptime record while working 114 500 ROV diving hours in the Norwegian sector. No group can beat that number. To succeed with innovative technology and operations, a solid organization must integrate expertise and support. Continuous improvement is very important in our industry and experience strengthens our new projects and products. In the future we will continue to be best in class.

“Without the ROV, you can’t see, you can’t work, and you can’t drill!”

This year Oceaneering International Inc. marks its 50th anniversary. Erik Sæstad, Country Manager and VP in Norway commented, “Our plan is to still be here at least 50 years from now”. Mr.Sæstad continued, “As drilling takes its first steps into arctic waters at ever increasing depths, ROVs are essential to the process.

Oceaneering is a world leader in the provision of subsea products and services to the oil & gas industry.

For more information visit www.oceaneering.no

MAGNUM® and OCEANEERING® are registered trademarks of Oceaneering International, Inc.

The Distant Sound Susan Philipsz

SSB 4.25 KHz SSB 4.27 KHz SSB 4.34 KHz 24.mai – september 2014 Kunstverket, som blir sendt ut fra Grimeton radiostasjon utenfor Varberg i Sverige, kan oppleves på følgende plasser: The artwork, which is based on Grimeton radio station outside Varberg in Sweden, can be experienced at the following locations: Norge: Galleri F15, Moss • Isegran, Fredrikstad Sverige: skeppsätningen Blomsholm, Strömstad • helleristningen Asberget i Vitlycke, Tanum • helleristningen Skomakeren i Backa, Lysekil • Tjolöholms slott • Varberg havn • Ystad havn Danmark: Bornholms kunstmuseum The Distant Sound er en del av EU-prosjektet In Site www.projectinsite.eu

THE EUROPEAN UNION The European Regional Development Fund

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TempTaTIon

STUFF YOU NEED TO TASTE, SMELL, WATcH AND LISTEN TO >>> 110 mcDaDDY's > 118 WinE > 120 sHoPPinG

NAPLES, ITALY

DIREcT FROM THE STONE OVEN The bottom is very thin – often only a few millimetres. The oven is wood-fired and holds temperatures of over 450 degrees. The cooking time is only a few minutes. The result is almost beyond belief. Welcome to pizzeria da michele in naples, known from the film "Eat, pray, love" as creator of the world's best pizza.

PHoto THINKSTOCK

Bunnen er svært tynn – gjerne bare noen millimeter. ovnen er vedfyrt og holder over 450 grader. steketiden er bare noen minutter. resultatet er nesten ikke til å tro. Velkommen til Pizzeria da michele i napoli – kjent fra filmen Eat, Pray, Love for å lage verdens beste pizza.

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Temptation Homemade fast food

Satay chef. Chicken kebabs are one of the easiest and most popular fast foods for families.

Be sure to make double portions.

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McDaddy’s Text Per Asbjørn Risnes jr. Photos Marte Garmann

Parenting and food writer Per Asbjørn Risnes´ favourite fish and chips is the result of direct stock fish routes between Norway and Portugal. «Pappamat»-forfatter Per Asbjørn Risnes´ fish & chips er resultatet av Portugals direkteimport av klippfisk fra Norge.

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(1) Soul kitchen. Why shouldn't after school snack be even better than McDonald's? (2) DIY comfort food. Risnes wanted to find the best possible homemade versions of street food classics. It's what everyone loves to eat anyway.

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If you want something

done right, do it yourself, as the saying goes. That’s why I set out to research ways of recreating­family favourites from scratch in my own home kitchen. Preferably by doing it better than the chains and ­restaurants themselves. The idea was to look at various fast food classics and figure out what makes them so good while leaving out what makes them so ‘bad.’

Hvis man skal få noe til, så må man gjøre det selv. ­Derfor startet jeg et år med fastfoodforskning for å gjenskape ­familiens favoritter fra bunnen hjemme på kjøkkenet. Helst bedre enn det kjedene og restaurantene klarer. Målet har vært å ta for seg de forskjellige kjappmat-klassikerne og finne ut hva som gjør dem gode. Uten å ta med det som gjør dem «dårlige».

It is not hard to make your own fresh pasta, burgers, taco

Det er ikke vanskelig å lage fersk pasta, hamburgere­, egne tacoskjell eller sprø fish & chips. Husk at m ­ ange av ­klassikerne er funnet opp for å kunne lages r­askest mulig av ufaglærte kokker i små trange kjøkken. Så ­ det er ikke a­vansert kjemi, som regel. Det er nesten usportslig å ­konkurrere med industrien, som må tilsette smaksforsterkere­og k ­ rydder slik at det skal smake identisk og gjennomsnittlig hver eneste gang.

Homemade fast food always beats chain versions. I’m not

Hjemmekiosken banker kjedene når som helst. Jeg ­mener ikke at man skal kverne kjøttdeigen selv eller koke

for dinner today?" I ask the ­children several times a week.

Like many kids, they often answer: tacos, hot dogs, homemade pizza, pasta and pancakes. In that order.

To be perfectly honest, that’s not very far from my own list of favourites. I also love fast food. So why not enjoy such foods more often without feeling guilty about being tricked into eating food that is expensive, fast and sinful? hat do you want

shells or crispy fish and chips. Keep in mind that many of these classics were devised as a way for amateur cooks to make food quickly in small, cramped kitchens. So, as a rule, this is not exactly rocket science. It's almost unsportsmanlike to compete with the fast food industry, since they use flavour enhancers and spices that ensure identical, ­mediocre products every time. saying that you should grind your own beef or cook up your

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va vil dere ha til middag i dag,» spør jeg barna flere ganger i uken.

Som barn flest svarer de de taco, pølser, hjemmelaget pizza, pasta og pannekaker. I den rekkefølgen.

Hvis jeg skal være ærlig, så er ikke min favorittliste v­ eldig annerledes. Jeg elsker fastfood jeg også. Så hvorfor ikke ­spise sånn mat mye oftere? Uten å få den dårlige ­følelsen av å ha blitt lurt til å spise noe dyrt, kjapt og syndig.

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(3) Happy customers. Dinners should be all about good taste and good company. Iben and Lilja both enjoy eating daddy's homemade burger.

(4) Rings of desire. Onions are among the most nutritious vegetables. So why not dip them in a batter and fry a whole bunch of them?

recipe

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Fried onion rings

Friterte løkringer

Ingredients: • 1 large onion in thick slices/rings • Milk • 250 grams (9 ounces) of flour, plus more for sprinkling • 3 decilitres (1.25 cups) of cold lager beer • 3 teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon curry powder • Salt and pepper • 3 litres of grape seed oil or ­similar frying oil

Ingredienser: • 1 stor løk i tykke skiver/ringer • Melk • 250 gram hvetemel, pluss litt for å strø • 3 dl kaldt øl, pilstype • 3 ts bakepulver • 1 ts karripulver • Salt og pepper • 3 l druekjerneolje olje eller ­lignende frityrolje

instructions: 1. Whisk beer, curry and baking powder into the flour until you get a doughy, sticky mass, roughly the consistency of wallpaper paste.

2. Cut the large onions in 1/2 centimetre (0.2 inch) thick rings. If you want the onion to taste a little more mild, marinate it in milk a few hours.

3. Drain milk off the onion rings, then roll them in flour before you dip them in batter and deep-fry them in a pot of grape seed oil at about 180 degrees C (350 °F).

Drain on a rack or paper towels before serving.

Fremgangsmåte: 1. Pisk øl, karri og bakepulver inn i melet til du får en seig klissete røre, omtrent som tapetlim.

2. Kutt den store løken i ca 1/2 cm tykke ringer. Hvis du ønsker litt mildere løksmak, så la løken ligge i melk et par timer.

3. La melken dryppe av, rull ­løk­ringene i mel, før du dypper dem i frityr-røren og steker i en kjele med solsikkeolje som holder ca 180 grader.

4. La dem renne av på rist eller kjøkkenpapir, før servering.

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Taco heaven. Every kid wants to decide what to eat for themselves.

When Lilja's neighbours Amalie and Oda join in on the preparation, they often want to taste it all.

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(1) Beat the king. Grind your own meat, bake your own soft bread. Not every week, but when you have tried, you can apreciate good fast food craft­manship.

(2) Burger flipping dad. Per Asbjørn Risnes tries to please the home crowd with all their favourites. Sometimes it works.

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own batch of ketchup every week. But once you have tried it, you know what it takes.

That also enables you to distinguish between good and bad fast foods and understand that using semi-prepared foods amounts to cheating.

I would also argue that doing it yourself is a sympathetic manly virtue, whether you build your own book shelves or bake your own burger buns.

Once you’ve done it with your own two hands, you have a greater appreciation of the craftsmanship involved when others are responsible for the job.

egen ketchup hver eneste uke. Men når man først har ­forsøkt, så vet man hva som skal til.

Da blir man flinkere til å skille mellom god og dårlig ferdigmat, og ser hvor juks det er i halvfabrikat-produktene.

Dessuten er det en god maskulin egenskap å få til ting på egenhånd, enten det nå er å snekre en bokhylle eller bake et ­hamburgerbrød. Først når du har brukt dine egne hender, klarer du å sette pris på godt håndverk hos andre.

Next time you ask the kids what they want for dinner, you can suggest, with a clear conscience, the Portuguese-Norwegian ­answer to fish and chips. They'll love these fried nuggets made from dried and salted cod, or klipfish, and mashed potatoes. "Hey kids!

How about a McDaddy's Special Menu and onion rings?"

Neste gang du spør barna hva de vil ha til middag kan du med god samvittighet f­ oreslå det portugisisk-norske svaret på fish and chips. Friterte nuggets av klippfisk og potetstappe: «Hei unger! Hva med en Pappamat-meny med bolinhos og løkringer?!»

Facts PAPPAFOOD "PAPPAMAT” (Daddy Food) Per A. Risnes Jr. Garmann Forlag (Publisher) >>> facebook.com/pappamat

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•

REcIPE Klipfish nuggets

friterte klippfiskboller

Bolinhos de bacalhau is the portuguese answer to fish and chips.

Bolinhos de bacalhau er det portugisiske svaret på fish and chips.

inGrEDiEnts: • 500 grams (1.1 pounds) of klipfish (soaked in cold water overnight, at least, to remove salt) • 250 grams (9 oz) skinned potatoes • 2 shallots • 3 garlic cloves • 3 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped • Whole milk to cover the fish • high quality olive oil • pepper and possibly salt • a dash of cayenne • Flour • 2-3 eggs • 1/2 litre (1 pint) of breadcrumbs (or batter from the fish and chips) • neutral oil for frying

IngreDIenser: • 500 g ferdig utvannet klippfisk (i kaldt vann over natten, minst) • 250 g skrelte poteter feks mandel • 2 sjalottløk • 3 hvitløksfedd • 3 ss bladpersille, finhakket • H-melk til det dekker fisken • God olivenolje • Pepper og kanskje salt • Litt cayenne • Hvetemel • 2–3 egg • 1⁄2 l brødsmuler (eller frityrrøren fra fish and chipsen) • nøytral olje til fritering

PrEParation: 1. Boil the skinned potatoes in unsalted water and let them air dry before mashing.

2. cut the fish into equal pieces.

Sauté the garlic and shallots quickly in a little oil. place the fish in the pan and pour over enough milk to cover. Bring to a boil and gently and simmer until fish begins to flake, about 10 minutes. let it cool slightly and tear the fish into long strips with a fork. mix the mashed potatoes and fish, add the olive oil and a little of the leftover cooking broth until you get a smooth, slightly moist but still firm ‘dough.’ Use the mashed potatoes to adjust the consistency and then stir in fresh parsley or coriander plus a dash of cayenne pepper, perhaps.

3. Use a spoon and the palm of your hand to form elongated balls the size of small eggs. if you make them too thick, they won’t cook through.

4. Set them aside cold while preparing the breading. (You can also dip them in the same batter as the onion rings.)

5. have one bowl with flour, another bowl with beaten eggs and a third bowl with breadcrumbs. Dip the fish cakes in that order and fry in oil until golden and crispy (a few minutes). Don’t fry too many at once. Drain them on paper towels before serving.

6. Serve plain or with a good tartar or similar sauce or tomato salsa.

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fremgangsmÅTe: 1. kok skrelte halve poteter uten salt, og la dem dampe seg tørre før du moser dem med en potetpresse.

2. Del fisken i jevne stykker. Fres hvitløk og sjalottløk raskt i litt olje. Legg fisken i kjelen og hell over melk så det dekker. kok forsiktig opp og la det trekke til fisken flaker seg, ca. 10 min.

La det kjøle seg litt og riv fisken i lange strimler med en gaffel.

3. Bland potetmasse og fisk, og spe med olivenolje og litt kokekraft til du har en jevn, litt fuktig, men fortsatt fast masse. Juster med potet eller væske og rør inn fersk bladpersille eller koriander, og eventuelt litt cayennepepper.

4. Bruk en skje og håndflaten til å lage avlange boller på størrelse med små egg. ikke lag dem for tykke, da blir de ikke gjennomvarme.

5. sett dem kaldt mens du gjør i stand paneringen. (Du kan også dyppe dem i samme frityrrøren som løkringene.)

6. Ha en skål med mel, en med vispet egg og en med brødsmuler. Dypp i den rekkefølgen og friter i olje til de er gylne og sprø, dvs. et par minutter. men ikke for mange om gangen.

7. La dem renne av på kjøkkenpapir før servering.

8. server som de er eller med en god remulade eller tomatsalsa.

Karriere i Skatteetaten Vi sikrer finansieringen av fellesskapet

store fagmiljø for jurister, revisorer, økonomer, IT-spesialister, kommunikasjonsmedarbeidere og samfunnsvitere utfordrende og samfunnsaktuelle oppgaver kompetanseutvikling trening i arbeidstiden

Følg oss pü: linkedin.com/company/skatteetaten @skattenmin facebook.com/skattenmin

For mer informasjon om karriere i Skatteetaten, se: skatteetaten.no/jobb

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Temptation Wine

city under the sea About a lost city, a Turkish fisherman, a lamb stew and good wine.

Om en forsvunnet by, en tyrkisk fisker, en lammegryte og god vin.

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which – before tourists tedet var Kaş, som før den store turistflommen flooded it – was a little gem on Turkey’s Lycia Coast. I satte inn, var en liten perle på Lykiakysten i ­Tyrkia. was there to research the ancient Lycian culture. I had Anledningen var et opphold der jeg skulle drive hailed a fishing boat that had been lying idle at the ­seawall ­research på de gamle lykiernes kultur. for several days and the owner had been more than willing Jeg hadde praiet en fiskebåt som hadde ligget uvirksom (for a handful of lira) to take me to a Lycian settlement on a ved moloen noen dager, og eieren hadde vært mer en villig difficult to reach part of the coast. Back in Kaş, the captain til å ta meg med til en lykisk bosetning på et vanskelig tilwondered if I might be interested in another outing, be- gjengelig sted langs kysten for en håndfull lira. cause he knew of a city ­beneath Vel tilbake i Kaş lurte skipper­ the sea. Around the year 400 BC, en på om jeg kunne være the Lycia Coast suffered a pow­interessert i å ta nok en tur. Han erful earthquake, which split visste nemlig om en by som lå part of the peninsula from the under havet. Rundt år 400 f.v.t mainland, creating­an island. ble Lykiakysten rammet av et There had been a fairly large kraftig jordskjelv, noe som førte ­Lycian city there and much of it til at deler av en halvøy ble skilt ended up under the sea, where it fra fastlandet og ble til en øy. På remains. He asked if I wanted to dette stedet var det en større see it, which of course I did. lykisk by, og resultatet var at ­ This boat trip and subsequent store deler av denne byen ble afternoon still rise like a spire in liggende under vann. Om jeg ­ my memory. When we reached ville se? Selvfølgelig ville jeg det.

Author Gert Nygårdshaug the spot, he slowed the boat Denne båtturen og påfølgende is, among other things, known for his crime series all the way down and eagerly ettermiddag rager fremdeles about gourmet and wine connoisseur Fredric pointed­into the water. Below, som et spir i minnet: Da vi kom Drum. In 360, Nygårdshaug shares his best wine in the crystal clear sea, I saw the ut til stedet, lot fiskeren båten ­experiences from around the world. ruins of the city: houses, streets, gå på laveste hastighet mens squares and a large, open area han ivrig pekte ned. Og under of magnificent mosaics that might have been the floor of a oss, i det krystallklare vannet, kunne jeg se ruinene etter rich man's home. For over an hour, we motored above the byen: hus, gater, torg, og i et stort, åpent område en praktsunken city while I hung over the railing and imagined the full ­mosaikk i det som kanskje kunne ha vært gulvet i et rikpeople who had lived there centuries earlier. mannshjem. I over en time drev vi rundt over den sunkne When I finally managed to tear myself away from this byen mens jeg hang over båtripen og forestilte meg men­ dreamlike vision, the fisherman asked if I was hungry. neskene som bodde der nede for århundrer siden.

There was no question about it: I was. So he pointed to a tiny Da jeg endelig klarte å rive meg løs fra det uvirkelige synet, ­cluster of houses by a small bay on the mainland and said spurte fiskeren om jeg var sulten? Det kunne ikke ­benektes, that a little eatery there served Turkey's best lamb stew, og så pekte han på en husklynge som lå i den lille bukten called güvec. på fastlandet. Der, fortalte han, fantes et lite spisested som And so it came to pass: The fisherman and I sat into the ­serverte Tyrkias beste güvec, lammegryte. Og slik ble det, evening, enjoying lamb stew with great zeal and s­ avouring fisk­eren og jeg ble sittende lenge utover ettermiddagen an especially superb wine, a Kavaklidere. Serefe, and mens vi med velbehag nøt lammegryten og ikke minst en görüşmek üzere, Turkey! ypperlig vin, en Kavaklidere Yakut. Şerefe, og görüşmek üzere, ­Tyrkia! he place was called Kaş,

photo Steinar buholm

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Photo VESLEMØY VRÅSKAR

Facts Kavaklidere Yakut Turkish, ruby red wine with ­flavours of red berries and spice. Ripe tannins with good body.

Grape types: Carignan, ­Bogazkere, Alicante Bouschet.

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Temptation Shopping at OSL

direct SHOPPING Photos AND Styling Catharina Caprino

At Oslo Airport you will find whatever you need – whether you are going to a party or on a ski trip. På Oslo Lufthavn finner du det du trenger – uansett om du skal på fest eller på skiferie.

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left page: • prada sunglasses (noK 1999) Travel value fashion • papo Elephant (noK 99) arK • princess diamond diadem (noK 159) accssesorize right page: • Guess bag (noK 1299) Travel value fashion • Stern magazine (noK 32) arK

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Shopping at OSL

• calvin Klein Eternity perfume 100 ml (noK 599) Dutyfree / Travel value • micro rc car (noK 99) capi

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• lambretta cielo Stripes red (noK 569) • lambretta Franco Black (nok 649) • lambretta cielo Dots Black (noK 569) • lambretta Franco Steal (noK 719) all from Travel value fashion • certina (noK 3990) Thune

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Shopping at OSL

• Snø of Sweden gold bracelet (noK 499) • Snø of Sweden bracelet (noK 499) • Snø of Sweden gold chain (noK 399) • Dyrberg/Kern necklace (noK 2179) all from arg fashion • papo tiger (noK 89) arK • Swatch watch (noK 780) Thune

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• oakley goggles (noK 799) Travel value fashion • Sunny Satchel bag (noK 378) accessorize • Solar Spider (noK 79) capi

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Wee Trading gir deg mest for pengene!

Wee Trading har ett hovedmål: Å gi kundene våre mest for pengene. Det gjør vi ved å hente kvalitetsprodukter rett fra fabrikk – uten fordyrende mellomledd.

Vi har over 1500 produkter innen kategoriene miljøvennlig energi, landbruk, industri, anlegg, hus, hage, hall/telt og elektriske hjelpemidler hjelpemidler. Vår smarte webshop gjør handelen enkel – og vi sender varene direkte til deg!

Se vårt store utvalg på wee.no

EcoWee Du finner alltid noe nytt, spennende og prisgunstig på wee.no!

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InformaTIon THE YELLOW PAGES 0F OSLO AIRPORT >>> 128 osL nEWs > 130 osL Go! > 138 aFtErWorD

OSL, GARDEMOEN

NEW PASSENGER REcORD in 2013, oslo airport set a new record with 23 million passengers.

This represents an increase of 4 per cent from 2012 and is the highest number that has ever travelled through oslo airport. only copenhagen is bigger when it comes to air passengers in Scandinavia. i 2013 satte oslo Lufthavn ny rekord med 23 millioner reisende.

Dette er en økning på 4 prosent fra 2012 og det høyeste antallet passasjerer som noen gang har reist over oslo Lufthavn. nå er det kun flyplassen i københavn som er større i antall passasjerer i skandinavia.

PHoto OSL.NO

››› osl.no

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InformaTIon oSl news

korteste vei er alltid best. Jeg vet det av egen erfaring: man vil alltid ha den raskeste og korteste reiseruten. ingen ønsker seg mellomlandinger og mange timer ekstra reisetid. Derfor er det veldig viktig – og gledelig – at stadig flere direkteruter åpnes fra oslo Lufthavn.

For at flere flyselskaper skal se verdien av direkteruter fra oslo Lufthavn, er det viktig at vi leverer et godt produkt ovenfor passasjerer og flyselskaper. i 2013 tok vi en rekke viktige og gode grep for å bedre passasjerenes opplevelse i terminalen. Vi fikk på plass familieslusen i sikkerhetskontrollen, nye påfyllingsstasjoner for vann og startet arbeidet med å bygge flere toaletter og montere flere strømuttak hvor man kan lade mobil og nettbrett.

Et godt rutenettverk, og spesielt mange direkteruter, er alfa og omega for enhver lufthavn. Vi har i dag 169 direkteruter, hvorav 113 går til utlandet. i løpet av våren får vi også på plass flere interkontinentale direkteruter til nord-amerika. Forhåpentligvis vil vi få enda flere direkteruter i 2014.

MORE ELEcTRIcAL OUTLETS IN THE TERMINAL / FLERE STRØMUTTAk I TERMINALEN Your mobile phone or tablet running out of batteries while you’re travelling can be a real crisis. This spring, Oslo Airport is increasing the number of electrical outlets in the terminals to give travellers easy access to recharging points.

Det kan være kritisk hvis mobiltelefonen eller nettbrettet løper tom for strøm når man skal ut å reise. i løpet av våren vil oslo Lufthavn øke antall stikkontakter i terminalen slik at reisende får lettere tilgang til strømuttak.

PHoto THINKSTOCK

The shortest way is always best. I know from personal experience: You always want the fastest, shortest route. No one wants extra stops or additional hours of travel time.

So it is very important – and gratifying – that more non-stop routes keep opening at Oslo Airport.

For airlines to see the value of direct and non-stop routes from Oslo Airport, we have to deliver a good product for both passengers and air carriers. In 2013, we took several steps to improve passengers’ overall experience of the Terminal, including a new family lane at security and drinking water refilling stations.

Plus we started work on more toilets and electrical outlets for charging mobile phones and tablets.

A good route network in general and many non-stop flights are the alpha and omega of any airport. We now have 169 such routes, including 113 international flights.

This spring, several more intercontinental, non-stop flights to North America will also be in place. Hopefully, we’ll get even more such routes in 2014.

PHoto THINKSTOCK

THe DIrecT eDITIon

SPRING NEWS FROM SAS / VÅRENS NYHETER FRA SAS Best regards, NIc NILSEN Managing Director, Oslo Airport

This spring, SAS airlines is expanding its network with new non-stop routes to Aalborg in Denmark; Aberdeen and Edinburgh in Scotland and Chania on Crete. The spring rollout starts with three weekly flights to Aalborg from 30 March and Aberdeen from 31 March. From 10 April you can fly twice a week to Edinburgh and if you are more interested in warmer climates, SAS will fly once a week to Chania starting on 12 April.

Denne våren utvider sas sitt tilbud med nye direkteruter fra oslo Lufthavn til aalborg, aberdeen, Edinburgh og chania. Vårslippet begynner med tre ukentlige avganger til aalborg fra 30. mars og til aberdeen fra 31. mars. Fra 10. april kan du fly to ganger i uken til Edinburgh, men vil du til varmere strøk, flyr sas en gang ukentlig til chania på kreta fra 12. april.

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Photo THINKSTOCK

SunExpress open direct flight to Izmir / SunExpress åpner direkterute til Izmir Thursday 15 May the Turkish airline SunExpress starts up its d ­ irect route from Oslo Airport to Izmir. The route will go every thursday d ­ uring the summer season, from May to October, but SunExpress hope ­to eventually offer a year-round schedule. The route will be operated b ­ y one of SunExpress Boeing 737 machines.

Torsdag 15. mai starter det tyrkiske flyselskapet SunExpress opp sin direkterute fra Oslo Lufthavn til Izmir.

Direkteruten til Izmir vil gå hver torsdag i sommersesongen, fra mai til oktober, men SunExpress håper etter hvert å kunne tilby en helårsrute. Ruten vil opereres av en av SunExpress sine Boeing 737-maskiner.

A new non-stop route between Oslo Airport and Växjö Småland Airport in Sweden takes off in March. The route will be operated by the airline Nextjet, who has noted a demand for such an itinerary from business and leisure travellers for a long time. The new route flies one round trip per day on Monday through Friday, departing Växjö at 9:30 a.m. and Oslo at 11:20 a.m.

En ny direkterute mellom Oslo Lufthavn og Växjö Småland Lufthavn kommer på vingene i mars. Ruten opereres av flyselskapet Nextjet som lenge har opplevd ­etterspørsel etter en slik forbindelse­blant privatpersoner og bedrifter i Småland. Den nye direkteruten flys tur-retur mandag til fredag med avgang 09.30 fra Växjö og retur 11.20 fra Oslo.

Franks on the run / Varme pølser på farten In early January, Franks opened its refurbished hotdog stand on the domestic­ pier of Oslo Airport.

Franks now has a brand new red and white exterior, while behind the counter you’ll still find the same broad range of frankfurters and toppings ready for you to grab on the run.

I starten av januar åpnet en nyoppusset «Franks» i innlandspiren på Oslo Lufthavn. «Franks» har nå fått et splitter nytt rødt og hvitt ytre, men bak disken finner du fortsatt et bredt utvalg av pølser med tilbehør som du kan ta med på farten.

Photo osl

New route to Växjö, Sweden / NY RUTE til växjö

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a sunny place. All the major charter companies in Norway offer holiday destinations at Crete Island in Greece.

Fly south classics and new destinations mark this year's charter program from oslo airport. noen klassikere og noen nye destinasjoner i årets charterprogram fra oslo Lufthavn.

This summer, Ving travel is ‘resurrecting’ charter tours to Ibiza, while the smaller neighbouring island of Formentera is a new charter destination from Norway.

This year you can also discover new sides of classic Mallorca by travelling with Ving to the mountain villages of Deia and Valldemossa, while the Star Tour offers two new options: the villages of Puerto Cristo and Porto Colom.

Star Tour is focusing on Corfu with three destinations, plus the new addition Tigaki on Kos. The small island of Karpathos has long been popular, and this year Apollo is offering more choices than everto fly there.

All the major charter companies have Crete in their catalogues, and this summer, Detur is joining the club. In Turkey, Alanya, Antalya, Bodrum and Izmir are the dominant destinations.

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Til sommeren «gjenoppstår» charterturismen til Ibiza med Ving. Nyheten Formentera, Ibizas lille naboøy, blir et helt nytt reisemål for norske charterturister. I år kan du også oppleve nye sider av klassikeren Mallorca. Ving tar deg med til fjellandsbyene Deia og Valldemossa, mens Star Tour vil tilby to nye reisemål: landsbyene Puerto Cristo og Porto Colom.

Star Tour satser i år på Korfu med tre ulike destinasjoner på øya. Kos får også et nytt reisemål: Tigaki. Den lille øya Karpathos har lenge vært et populært reisemål, og i år har Apollo flere muligheter på denne øya enn noen gang før.

Alle de store charterselskapene har Kreta på programmet. Fra neste sommer er også Detur med i det gode selskap.

I Tyrkia er det destinasjonene Alanya, Antalya, Bodrum og Izmir som dominerer.

FAcTS charter flights from oslo airport: >>> ving.no >>> startour.no >>> detur.no >>> apollo.no >>> sunexpress.com

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InformaTIon Airport guide

TRANSPORT Oslo Airport is located 50 kilometres (31 miles) north of Oslo´s city centre. The airport is easily accessible from most of south-eastern Norway by train, bus or car. The railway station is integrated into the Terminal, and passengers can easily walk from the platform to the Departure and Arrival Halls under cover, to the multi-storey car park, and to the bus and taxi stops outside the Terminal.

AIRPORT ExPRESS TRAIN The Airport Express Train runs between Drammen (south of Oslo) and Oslo Airport, and stops at the following stations: Asker, Sandvika, Lysaker, Skøyen, the National Theatre, Oslo Central Station and Lillestrøm. For more details contact the Information desk in the Arrival Hall.

(Tel. +47 815 00 777)

NORWEGIAN STATE RAILWAYS All NSB Regional Trains running between Skien, Oslo, Lillehammer and Trondheim stop at Oslo Airport. NSB Local Trains running between Kongsberg and Eidsvoll also stop at the airport.

(Tel. +47 815 00 888)

and stops within walking distance of most of the main hotels in the centre of Oslo. The trip from the airport to the main bus station at Galleri Oslo takes 35 to 40 minutes.

Catch the bus from Oslo Airport on the Arrival level outside the Terminal Building.

(Tel. 177 from inside the airport /Tel. +47 815 00 176 outside)

BUSES The bus company “Ruter” runs regular services to the airport.

(Tel. 177 from inside the airport/Tel. +47 815 00 176)

FLYBUSSEkSPRESSEN AIRPORT cOAcHES Airport coaches run to Majorstuen, Bekkestua, Ski/ Oppegård and Fredrikstad.

Coaches from the airport stop directly outside the Arrival Hall and coaches to the airport stop outside the Departure Hall.

Flybussekspressen.no (Tel. +47 815 44 444)

NOR­WAY BUSSEkSPRESS NOR-WAY Bussekspress is the largest express coach network in Norway with seven national coach routes from OSL. The coaches run to Trysil, Trondheim, Ålesund/Molde, Volda, Måløy/ Lillehammer and Kristiansund. nor-way.no (Tel +47 815 44 444)

SAS AIRPORT cOAcH The SAS Airport Coach departs every 20 minutes to and from Oslo Airport,

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TAxI

LOST PROPERTY

There is a taxi stop on the Arrival level outside the Terminal.

Items that are left onboard planes arriving at Oslo Airport, in the Terminal or onboard the Airport Express Train are delivered to the lost property department, which is located at the east end of the Arrival Hall. The lost property department is open every day from 5 a.m. to midnight. You can also check whether an item has been found at www.missingx. com within 24 hours.

(Tel. +47 64 81 34 77)

cAR RENTAL All the car hire firms have counters at the west end of the Arrival Hall (near the railway station).

SEcURITY At Oslo Airport, all passengers must go through security control before they can board their flights. You can help make the security control as efficient as possible by following the rules about what you are allowed to take with you through the security check. Any sharp items (knives, scissors, tweezers, etc.) must be checked in with your baggage. Place all metal items (keys, coins, mobile telephones etc.) in your hand baggage or coat pocket, and send it all through the x-ray machine. Laptops and other larger electronic devices should be packed so that they are easy to remove for screening.

Shoes with metal details must be screened by the x-ray machine.

Small amounts of liquids are permitted through the security check and must be in containers no larger than 100 ml. All containers must be placed in a transparent plastic bag that may be opened and closed. The bag may not contain more than one litre when closed. Place the bag with containers on the conveyor belt for x-raying.

For more information, go to osl.no.

VAT REFUND Global Blue: To have VAT refunded on items that are being taken abroad, present the goods, your passport and your Global Blue cheques at the counter in the Departure Hall.

(Tel. +47 92 86 99 10) Tax Free Worldwide Norway AS: Fill out your name, address and credit card number on the cheque before arriving at the airport. Ticket and goods must be shown at the Tax Free Worldwide's counter in the Departure Hall at Gardermoen Service Center. For further information, visit taxfreeworldwide.com

INTERNET Receive a user name and password by SMS when requesting it on the “Gratis WiFi”/“Free WiFi” link on OSL’s log-in page from anywhere in the terminal. After logging on, you have two hours to surf for free. For extended time, you can use the airport’s payable WLAN service. If your internet provider is listed at OSL’s IP zoneportal. (www.osl.no/ wlan_osl), you can use your

existing account. If you do not have a wireless network account, you can buy shortterm access directly from OSL’s IP zoneportal, from CAPI and from Radisson SAS Conference Center East. For more detailed information, go to OSL’s IP zoneportal. There are also a number of Internet stations at Oslo Airport.

cAFÉS AND RESTAURANTS Departure Hall W.B. samson Tel. +47 64 81 16 34 Bakery.

Domestic Departures: caFFE ritaZZa Close to Gate 30 Tel. +47 64 81 16 31/ 64 91 16 34 Quality coffee, as well as fresh panini, ciabatta and warm croissants. monoLittEn (caFÉ) Close to Gate 30 Tel. +47 64 81 16 32 Oslo Airport’s extensive choice of hot and cold meals. sinnataGGEn Bar Close to Gate 30, 1st floor Tel. +47 64 81 16 33 This tapas bar has a large, comfortable seating area.

Perfect for relaxation or large groups. cHristiania Bar Close to Gate 21/23 Tel. +47 64 81 16 21 Bar and coffee shop with tempting snacks. o`LEarYs Close to Gate 22 Tel. +47 64 81 16 22 The bar for sports enthusiasts serves American food such as buffalo wings, burgers and steaks.

Franks Close to Gate 22 Tel. +47 64 81 16 26 Norway’s tastiest sausage concept. uPPEr crust Close to Gate 20 Tel. +47 64 81 16 24 Freshly baked baguettes filled with the best ingredients.

PiZZa Hut Close to Gate 18 Tel. +47 64 81 16 23 Genuine American pizza sold as part of a menu, by the slice or as a whole pie. sEaFooD Bar Close to Gate 24 Tel. +47 64 81 16 12 Exciting seafood menu and a wide selection of wines and champagnes sold by the bottle.

International Departures:

norWEGian aQuaVit Bar Close to Gate 40 Tel. +47 64 81 16 11 Here you will find all kinds of aquavit and tasty snacks to satisfy your hunger. sEaFooD Bar Close to Gate 42 Tel. +47 64 81 16 12 Exciting seafood menu and wide selection of wines and champagnes sold by the bottle.

PiZZa Hut Close to Gate 44 Tel. +47 64 81 16 13 Genuine American pizza sold as part of a menu, by the slice or as a whole pie. uPPEr crust Close to Gate 44 Tel. +47 64 81 16 13 Freshly-baked baguettes filled with the best ingredients.

LE GranD comPtoir Close to Gate 34/36 Tel. +47 64 81 16 15 Modern French brasserie offering a complete restaurant experience, including easy breakfasts.

nEWs Bar (Non-Schengen area) Close to Gate 48-59 Tel. +47 64 81 16 49 Bar and kiosk.

Yo! susHi Close to Gate 39 Tel. +47 64 81 15 19 YO! Sushi is the U.K.'s leading Japanese ‘kaiten’ sushi bar, and now serves over four million customers a year throughout the U.K. and across the globe.

starBucks Tel. + 47 64 81 16 73 Starbucks is the leading retailer, roaster and brand of specialty coffee in the world.

FooDmarkEt Close to Gate 39 Tel. +47 64 81 16 16 Representing Oslo's variety of food, Foodmarket offers everything from brick oven pizza and noodles to sandwiches and pastries.

The interior is inspired by Scandinavian design. o´LEarYs Close to Gate 39 Tel. +47 64 81 16 17 The bar for sports enthusiasts serves American food such as buffalo wings, burgers and steaks.

arrival Hall:

PEPPEs PiZZa Tel. +47 22 22 55 55 Varied pizza menu based on American-style pizza.

La BaGuEttE Tel. +47 64 81 19 49 A modern lunch bar for people on the go. The café serves crisp baguettes with a choice of fillings.

BEacH cLuB Tel. +47 64 81 19 49 American-style diner renowned for its great hamburgers, with coarse ground meat and a secret mix of spices.

SERVIcES

DnB Close to Gate 32 and 38 and Arrival Hall.

Tel. +47 03000 E-mail: dnb.oslo.lufthavn@ dnb.no ATMs before and after security control. inFormation DEsk Service-desk. At Arrival Hall. Information telephone.

Tel. +47 06 400 Bus inFormation DEsk Tel. +47 64 81 03 90 EuroPark Airport parking Tel. +47 64 81 19 80 fax. +47 64 81 19 90 P10, Felt 1B, 1 Etg. gardermoen@europark.no SHOPS Domestic Departures: ark Close to Gate 32 Tel. +47 64 81 06 53 Bookshop with a good selection of books and magazines. airPort rEtaiL GrouP FasHionsHoP Two shops, close to Gate 26 and Gate 30 Tel. +47 64 82 06 62 +47 64 82 06 69 Women's, children's and men's clothing. Wide range of sunglasses and accessories. traVEL VaLuE Close to Gate 28-30 Tel. +47 32 23 09 00 Perfumes and cosmetics at duty free prices.

Point Close to Gate 26 Tel. +47 64 81 16 00 A good selection of books, magazines and kiosk goods.

caPi Close to Gate 26 Tel. +47 64 81 14 85 Offers travellers a wide assortment of products in electronics, music, videogames and films. accEssoriZE Close to Gate 24 Tel. +47 64 82 19 70 Accessories for him and her.

Point Close to Gate 19 Tel. +47 64 81 16 00 Kiosk with plenty of sweets and candy for the little ones.

International Departures: DutY FrEE Tel. +47 32 23 09 00 Perfumes and cosmetics, alcohol, tobacco and sweets. Open 24 hours, 365 days. saLmon HousE Close to Gate 36 Tel. +47 64 81 16 51 Genuine, high quality Norwegian salmon, smoked and cured especially for the store. cHristiania GLasmaGasin Close to Gate 36/38 Tel. +47 466 14 210 Great gifts and souvenirs. airPort rEtaiL GrouP FasHionsHoP Close to Gate 36/38 Tel. +47 64 82 06 63 Women's, children's and men's clothing. Wide range of sunglasses and accessories. tHunE Close to Gate 36/38 Tel. +47 64 81 92 92 Good selection of brand name watches and jewellery. caPi Close to Gate 36/38 Tel. +47 64 81 14 86 Wide range of photographic and video equipment, electronics and music.

Point Close to Gate 36/38 Tel. +47 64 81 16 00 Selection of magazines, books and kiosk goods.

Point Close to Gate 43 Tel. +47 64 81 16 18 Kiosk goods. ark Close to Gate 40 Tel. +47 64 81 06 53 Bookshop with a good selection of books and magazines. traVEL VaLuE FasHion sHoP Tel. +47 982 53 195 Close to gate 41 One-stop shop for fashion, jewellery and accessories. arrival Hall: 7-ELEVEn Tel. +64 82 18 84 Convenience store. narVEsEn Tel. +64 82 18 80 Convenience store.

DatasPEsiaListEn Tel. +47 64 81 92 75 Mobile phones and accessories. ark Tel. +47 64 81 06 53 Good selection of books and magazines.

International baggage Hall area: DutY FrEE Tel. +47 32 23 09 00 Perfumes, cosmetics, alcohol, tobacco and sweets for all arriving passengers. Open 24 hours, 365 days a year.

FOR MORE INFORMATION www.osl.no Tel. +47 06 400 (changes may occur)

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InformaTIon Destinations

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KRK

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LHR LGW

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AAR BLL MAN

LED

TLL

VBY

GOT

AAL

DUB

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KKN

BOO SSJ BNN OLA KSU TRD MOL AES RRS FRO HOV FDE VDB SDN BGO OSL SOG SRP

FNC

LKL

BDU

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KEF

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VAR BOJ SAW

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CHQ HER RAK TFS LPA

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DESTINATIONS / DirEct routEs 2014

DESTINATIONS / DirEct routEs 2014

DESTINATIONS / cHartEr 2014

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DEstination

countrY

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countrY

coDE

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countrY

Inn szg vIe bru sjj boj var Dbv puy rjK spu lca prg bll cpH aal aar Tll Hel aja bIq boD gnb nce par ber cgn Dus fra Ham muc aTH cHq cfu Her efl Kgs pvK rHo jTr buD Kef Dub cag cTa mxp olb pmo psa fco vce prn rIx plq

Innsbruck Salzburg Vienna Brussels Sarajevo Bourgas Varna Dubrovnik Pula Rijeka Split Larnaca Prague Billund Copenhagen Aalborg Aarhus Tallinn Helsinki Ajaccio Biarritz Bordeaux Grenoble Nice Paris Berlin Cologne/Bonn Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Athens Chania Corfu Heraklion Kefalonia Kos Preveza/Lefkas Rhodes Santorini Budapest Reykjavik Dublin Cagliari Catania Milan Olbia Palermo Pisa Rome Fiumicino Venice Pristina Riga Palanga

Austria Austria Austria Belgium Bosnia-Herzegovina Bulgaria Bulgaria Croatia Croatia Croatia Croatia Cyprus Czech Republic Denmark Denmark Denmark Denmark Estonia Finland France France France France France France Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Hungary Iceland Ireland Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Kosovo Latvia Lithuania

vno mla raK ams Isb lHe gDn KrK szz WaW fao fnc lIs DoH svo leD beg bTs alc bcn bIo fue lpa Ibz ace maD agp maH mjv pmI Tfs goT arn vby vxo gva zrH bKK gzp ayT Dlm IsT aDb abz eDI lon man Kbp Dxb fll lax oaK mco nyc

Vilnius Malta Marrakech Amsterdam Islamabad Lahore Gdansk Krakow Szczecin Warsaw Faro Funchal Lisbon Doha Moscow Sheremetyevo St. Petersburg Belgrade Bratislava Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Ibiza Lanzarote Madrid Malaga Menorca Murcia Palma de Mallorca Tenerife Gothenburg Stockholm Visby Växjö Geneva Zurich Bangkok Alanya Antalya Dalaman Istanbul Izmir Aberdeen Edinburgh London Manchester Kiev Dubai Fort Lauderdale Los Angeles Oakland-San Francisco Orlando New York

Lithuania Malta Morocco Netherlands Pakistan Pakistan Poland Poland Poland Poland Portugal Portugal (Madeira) Portugal Qatar Russia Russia Serbia Slovakia Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Sweden Sweden Sweden Sweden Switzerland Switzerland Thailand Turkey Turkey Turkey Turkey Turkey UK (Scotland) UK (Scotland) UK UK Ukraine United Arab Emirates USA USA USA USA USA

aua Inn szg boj var bvc spu vra lca Hrg ssH bIa cly gnb lys mrs nTe sxb Tls bjl cHq jKH cfu Her Klx aoK efl Kgs mjT pvK rHo smI jTr jsI sKg zTH aHo cTa rmI vce aqj cun TIv fnc pDl alc leI fue ace lpa maD maH pmI Tfs Kbv HKT nbe mIr gzp ayT bjv Dlm aDb jer

Aruba Innsbruck Salzburg Bourgas Varna Boa Vista Split Varadero Larnaca Hurghada Sharm el Sheikh Bastia Calvi Grenoble Lyon Marseille Nantes Strasbourg Toulouse Banjul Chania Chios Corfu Heraklion Kalamata Karpathos Kefalonia Kos Mytilene Preveza/Lefkas Rhodes Samos Santorini Skiathos Thessaloniki Zakynthos Alghero Catania Rimini Venice Aqaba Cancun Tivat Funchal Ponta Delgada, Azores Alicante Almería Fuerteventura Lanzarote Gran Canaria Madrid Menorca Palma de Mallorca Tenerife Krabi Phuket Enfidha Monastir Alanya Antalya Bodrum Dalaman Izmir Jersey

Aruba Austria Austria Bulgaria Bulgaria Cape Verde Croatia Cuba Cyprus Egypt Egypt France France France France France France France France Gambia Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Italy Italy Italy Italy Jordan Mexico Montenegro Portugal Portugal Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Spain Thailand Thailand Tunisia Tunisia Turkey Turkey Turkey Turkey Turkey UK

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Afterword

No mercy Never tell a lie on the train. It’s not worth it.

Ikke lyv på toget. Det betaler seg ikke.

I

I

Photo agnete brun

n January, I received a handwritten letter from the januar mottok jeg et håndskrevet brev fra jernbane­ railway police in Bhopal, India. “Dear Mr. Førsund,” the politiet i Bhopal, India. Kjære Mr.. Forsund. skrev de. ­letter said. “Unfortunately, your bag has not been re­ Din bag er dessverre ikke kommet til rette. Men vi etter­ covered, but we are still investigating the case.” forsker fortsatt saken din.

It was seven, maybe eight, years ago. I had been in La oss si det er sju år siden, kanskje åtte. Jeg hadde vært ­India for three months, travelling far and wide, sleeping i India i tre måneder; reist på kryss og tvers; sovet på baston a straw mat in railway stations or in tiny huts with- matter, på togstasjoner, i små hytter uten vann. Og i løpet av out ­water. And during my travels, things went missing: A reisen hadde ting forsvunnet. Et par sko, en kikkert, et par pair of shoes, binoculars, sunglasses, a book. And when we solbriller, en bok. Og som det gjerne er med oss nordmenn, ­Norwegians lose things, we like når tingene våre forsvinner, så vil to claim ­compensation for them vi ha det igjen på forsikringen. Så on our insurance. So I lied. Mayjeg løy. Kanskje var det ikke en be not “lied” exactly, more like a gang en løgn, men bare en kom­collection of many small fibs. The primering av mange små histoTamil Nadu Express was heading rier. Tamil Nadu Express var på from ­Chennai to New Delhi. We vei fra Chennai til New Delhi. Vi stopped in Bhopal, in the heart of stoppet i Bhopal, midt i landet. the country. The stop would last Vi skulle bli der i en time, sa de; about an hour, they said, so we vi kunne strekke på beina. Unncould stretch our legs. “­Excuse skyld, sir, sa jeg. Jeg vil gjerne me, sir,” I said. “I would like to rapportere et tyveri. Er du blitt ­report a theft.” “Have you ever ranet? sa offiser­en. Ja, på toget. been robbed?” asked the officer.

En bag er stjålet. Den inneholdt et “Yes, on the train,” I said, “My bag par sko, en ­kikkert, et par solbrilwas stolen. It had a pair of shoes, ler, en bok. Kom med meg, sir, sa my binoculars, a pair of sunglas­ offiseren. ses, a book,” I said. “Come with Vi gikk til enden av perrongen.

Joachim Førsund is a journalist and writer me, sir,” said the officer.

Inn på et kontor med stor vifte i living in Oslo. He is 360´s travel columnist.

We walked to the far end of the taket. Offiseren låste opp en l­iten platform, and entered an office celle, trakk ut en gutt. Dette er with a large ceiling fan. The ofen tyv, sa han. Men han tok ikke ficer unlocked a small cell and dragged out a boy. “This is a ­bagen min! sa jeg. Nei, han nasket en sjokolade på per­ thief”, he said. “But he did not take my bag!” I said. “No, he rongen, sa offiseren. Og for å vise deg, sir, at vi tar dette på pinched a chocolate on the platform”, the officer said. “And største alvor, lar vi ham sitte her et ekstra døgn. Nei, for­ to show you, sir, that we take this very seriously, we let him resten. To ekstra døgn, sir. Men, sa jeg. Sånn blir det, sa han. sit here an extra day. No, two extra days, sir.” “But”, I said.

En time senere forlot jeg Bhopal med en kopi av tyveri“The ­decision is made”, he said. anmeldelsen i hendene. Jeg leverte den aldri til mitt norske An hour later I left Bhopal with a copy of the police theft forsikringsselskap. Men hvert år får jeg det samme brevet. report in my hand. I never turned it in to my insurance Kjære Mr.. Forsund. Din bag er dessverre ikke kommet til ­company. But every year, I get the same letter: “Dear Mr. rette. Men vi etterforsker fortsatt saken din.

Førsund. Unfortunately, your bag has not been recovered, but we are still investigating the case.”

Desire is a spring feeling

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