JULY / AUGUST 2017
NO. 3
DISCOVER
NAPLES
TRAVEL AND FOOD MAGAZINE
INTERVIEW TO Sylvain Bellenger, director of the Bosco di Capodimonte's Museum
DISCOVER...
STREET FOOD
a trip to Bacoli e Miseno
Cuoppo Allese & ò Per é o muss
PHOTOGRAPHED BY LISA SICIGNANO
The Italian proverb says: “ See Naples and die” but I say, see Naples and live; for there seems a great deal worth living for.” ARTHUR JOHN STRUTT
#DISCOVERNAPLESMAGAZINE
02
DISCOVER NAPLES MAGAZINE
THE MAGAZINE PROJECT
To tell and to offer to the tourists what Naples represents for Neapolitan people. To tell through the photos that Naples is a city full of history, culture, traditions, folklore, food, sea and football. This city has over 2800 years of history and preserve traditions that we want to make you know. Discover Naples is a magazine that offers to the Italian and foreigners tourists, the gastronomic suggestions and a lot of places to visit. We write for helping tourists to understand how much the city is magic, rich of civilization and generosity. Always Neapolitan people to face the difficulties with a smile on the lips and with a disarming optimism.
The magazine is twomonthly and is born online because we believe in a #zerowaste ideology, our site is not by chance entertained on server with a system of cooling to low environmental impact. The team of Discover Naples magazine has to care about the future of our planet and the habits of the readers, in fact, among our important objectives to be concretized, there is that to stamp the magazine on certified ecological paper. We just wish you a good trip to Naples, thanks also to the pages of Discover Naples.
CONTENTS 08
04
05
Sylvain Bellenger
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THE MAGAZINE PROJECT
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STREET FOOD
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JULY/AUGUST EVENTS
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HOW AND WHEN
49
NEAPOLITAN LESSONS
Interview to director of Bosco di Capodimonte's Museum. By Ciro Cuozzo
21
12
Neapolitan Recipes Limoncello & Zingara By Discover Naples Magazine
25
Discover Bacoli & Miseno By Giorgio Nugnes Photo by Lisa Sicignano
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Possillipo district By Discover Naples Magazine Photo by Pietro Scolorato P. 3 |
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DISCOVER NAPLES ADVICE #1
Visit Naples, dive into its blue sea and sunbathing? A Naples everything is possible. What "Kayak" do you want?
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VIEW FROM CAPODIMONTE
Sylvain Bellenger Interview to director of Bosco di Capodimonte's Museum By CIRO CUOZZO, Photo LISA SICIGNANO
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THE INTERVIEW
See Naples and then become one of the world's leading art historians. Sylvain Bellenger, a 62year-old and 18-month-old director of the Museum and the Bosco di Capodimonte, was struck by something from the artistic beauty of the city when he visited it at the age of 24. Born in Normandy, Bellenger directed museums in France and the United States. From November 2015 he is in charge of Capodimonte where he will remain in office for four years. Since 2016 the visits (180,705) to the museum have increased by 24% compared to the previous year. In 2017, the figure is expected to rise further and 250,000 visitors seem to be an easily reachable goal. A line up until a few years ago unexplored for the Capodimonte Museum that with the arrival of Bellenger has had a real revolution, even in the digital world. Social (Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram) have been implemented to reach as many people as possible. Today Capodimonte has over 200 employees, whose average age is 60 years. The goal of the new director is to rejuvenate staff and further internationalize both the Bosco and the Museum.
Director Bellenger, explain us his relationship with Naples? I've known the city for years. The first time I was at the age of 24 when I was a professor of Philosophy in Paris. I was in a hotel at Conca dei Marini, on the Coast, and every morning I took the bus to visit Naples.
What did you enjoy mainly? Everything but mainly Masaccio's painting. I was fuzzy. So I decided to change direction and dedicate myself to the history of art. I came home and told my parents who lived in Normandy while I was living in Paris (because French leave the family at 17), wanting to start studying art history. The thing frightened them but then over time they understood.
What has changed in Capodimonte when compared to when he visited it in the past? When you visit the museum as a curator, your vision changes completely from that of a visitor. Just like when you're the director. You no longer have the pleasure to visit it because you just look at things that are not good ...
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THE INTERVIEW
Are there many defects to be corrected?
Capodimonte, we have a much more dynamic website. We have wellgroomed social profiles because
Want the list? (laughs, e.d.). In
today's communication is made on
Italy wrong things are different.
social sites. Institutions must use these channels to present
Explain ...
themselves, to reveal their identity. Here, however, there is a ministerial
People are not at the center of the
presentation that only the official
mission. Paradoxically it is the
understands. You use an obsolete
officials, the public administration,
language that I do not understand.
which is a total madness.
When I speak, for example on a telephone, with the administration
Then?
of Rome we understand it perfectly. Then they write to me officially and
Young people have been deprived
I do not understand anything.
of art, they are out of cultural structures and this is a huge
How is this explained?
problem. We do not speak the same language to them. I'm talking
Two generations have been skipped.
more about it because in America I
Staff, administration, is now vintage
grew up and worked differently,
or, better yet, outdated.
using new systems. Already in the 90s, I sent a mail to the professor, not a written message, a
How do you resolve this "paralysis"?
recommended one. Capodimonte does not have a computer
I go on my way and the results are
inventory, it's all on paper. Our
slowly coming, even in a fast way. I
administration is vintage (laughs,
have a 4-year mandate and initially
e.d.).
thought that I would only be able to put things into place, instead, we
What are you doing to change this old habit?
are halfway and a success has already been achieved both for exhibitions, for the Museum, and for
On the reception, which is a very
the Woods.
wide concept. Thanks to the young people who are working in
A miracle...
Sylvain Bosco
Bellinger
di
Director
Capodimonte's
of
Â
Museum.
THE INTERVIEW
The most difficult things in Naples
We are used to seeing exhibits that are not
are the normal ones, like having the
exhibitions but only an imitation. All this has
lights working. This requires a
become not only a disorganization but a true
Hercules force. Instead, we did a
daily culture.
Picasso show in 8 months that we could never have done in France and
Give us an example.
America. When I was in America even the evenings with
This is because there is a spirit of adaptation?
friends were scheduled. But here is different: we feel at 6 to see us at 7, always at the last moment. I do not know why perhaps to always
I call it "quality of defects", there is
keep the maximum freedom. It is a culture of
no ability to anticipate: this is not
total individualism that leads to great
Neapolitan but Italian in general. For
freedom but also to such stress. Let me give
example, we receive from the Mibact
you another example: I worked for a huge
(Ministry of Cultural Heritage and
exhibition I made between Paris, New York,
Tourism, etc.) jobs that require a
Montreal, Chicago, and Washington. An
month's time but to be delivered for
exhibition I made with great ease because it
the next day. Why did they wait all
was all planned. The job at Capodimonte is
this time to send such a
tiring, arriving at the end of the day that I'm
communication?
exhausted.
Are you saying there is a lot of disorganization?
Are the four years worth twice? Every day here is worth a week because it's
There is an incredible emergency
all so confused, disorganized. Often my
management. All the officers are
secretary comes in to make me sign
turned into firefighters. There is no
something urgent coming from Rome.
programming, there is no vision. This gives us the ability to react with
Did you find positive aspects?
extraordinary effectiveness but the price to pay is that there is no
We did a show program until 2021 and we
ambition. Italy is a country that is
also presented it to the President of the
severely lacking in ambition. Here we
Region. I can say he was scared ...
find things that are mediocre.Â
Did not he wait for him?
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He asked me "how did plan it until 2021? I do not know what I will do tomorrow ... ". Without a plan, Italy gets off. I tell another anecdote. When Van Gogh's two stolen paintings were recovered a few months ago, we set them up for a brief period here at the museum. The
It is territorial, divided by city, regions. So parochialism returns. The territory is not the Republic, but it is understood the city by city. On this, you are very divided.
What do you like about Neapolitans?
inauguration day was beautiful. It was a day of moral, social, civic, and artistic value. That day, the Region's president announced that a Van Gogh exhibition in Naples would soon be held. An idea that made me excited, then ...
It's a very complex question. In 2010 I was a full year running the city, I got up in the morning and I was dipped in Naples as in a book. One of my favorite characters has always been Totò. But now I can not stand it anymore.
Was it a joke?
Why?
No. However, after I called the Amsterdam Museum Manager, who is my dear friend for 30 years, the thing is missed.
Because Totò enters in my office every three minutes. With a story at Totò to handle, with solutions to Totò, which are not solutions. So the
Why?
sense of the Neapolitan burlesque I enjoyed so much now makes me
He told me "Dear Sylvain, I love you, but we already have a loan program until 2021. We can do an exhibition in Naples in 2022 ...". If this is not
angry. This means maybe that I have become a true Neapolitan ...
Are you embitter?
the case if you do not enter this world that anticipates the future, stay alone. Remains isolated, compared to European and world museums. Italy sadly suffers from two things.
Naples has some very beautiful things: it is one of the last places that has kept something natural. Here is a human sensibility, even of the past, which still exists today with respect to other Italian cities,
Which?
including Rome, who have lost their
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souls. Napoli has kept it, perhaps it has too much soul.
How do you think you can improve the "quality of defects"?
Talk about civil rules, respect for nature, made no sense to her. This is a total individualism that is typical of this city. In Naples everything is always fantastic and terrible, beautiful and ugly, there are no
In Chicago, the "Friends of
nuances. Naples is a wounded beauty,
Capodimonte" founding was made up
humiliated by the Neapolitans themselves
of all Italians including Neapolitans emigrated to America, whose overseas success is extraordinary. The American law foundation aims to
first. If you write your girl's name on a work of the '600 this is not good, it's a total ignorance. Ignorance, however, is also due
bring the English language to the
to the lack of possibilities you have here. It
Museum of Capodimonte. So the first
will also be true that young people have
thing they've got me is an American
no future but their reaction ends with
curator who will be here for 2 years, paid by them. Then they asked me if I was able to change Capodimonte over these years as Director?
damaging them and the rest of the citizens even though there is a little authority in the city. In Paris, where to be young is different (eg going home at age
What did you answer?
17), things are different. There are at least 34 swimming pools that cost 1 euro for
That to change Capodimonte I have
teenager and are open until 11 pm, as well
to change before. I tell you another emblematic detail: one day I was
as pediatric facilities available to young
going to lunch at a trattoria near the
people to do anything. They have nothing
Bosco and there was a lady who was
here. There is no sense and respect for the
taking a bay of a laurel from a tree. I
public. This country needs to evolve. Let
stopped her and say “Lady, we are
me add another thing.
not in a market". After learning that I was the Director of the Museum, she looked at me and said, "is he taller
’m listening ...
I
than me, does he give me a hand?"
Such reactions give a negative image that
In the end helped her?
is later exploited by the media. When I arrived here I hit the front page news on a
Sure. For the Lady the Bosco was her, as well as everything.
major local newspaper. It referred to a cell phone robber suffered by two girls
near the Bosco. These are things that happen everywhere in the metro of Paris and in the rest of the world. Here, however, I read misleading titles. Titles like "This is the language of the Camorra". In Chicago, there are more than 600 black-and-white crimes each year, which is not mentioned in the press.
In Capodimonte, what are the most numerous tourists? The French have a special relationship with Naples, which is also historic. They do not expect Naples to be like Turin, they would be disappointed. They love this city but only for a week ...
How do you move? Take public transport, taxi or friends. I do not expect the bus because it takes too long. Naples in this is like Beirut.
His favorite Neapolitan dish instead? but doesn't answer Pizza ... Marinated anchovies, it's a wonderful dish. It is true that you eat well here.
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FOR NEAPOLITAN EATING IS A PLEASURE AND COOKING IS AN ART. #DISCOVERNAPLESMAGAZINE
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STREET FOOD CUOPPO ALLESSE & Ò PER E Ò MUSS BY DISCOVER NAPLES | PHOTO BY LISA SICIGNANO
From an ancient Neapolitan tradition, today we
We can find literary references about the cuoppo in
inherit the habit of wrapping boiled chestnuts
Salvatore Di Giacomo, Italian poet, playwright and
(allesse), generall the ones bought from peddlers,
essayist who lived at the end of the 19th century,
in a sheet of a cone shaped paper (cuoppo).
author of well-known poems in Neapolitan dialect.
Chestnuts, releasing moisture, wet the cuoppo
He describes the chip shop and the Neapolitan
warping it and wilting it; ths is the way in which
cuoppo in the poem called “Donn’Amalia e
Totò expressed his feelings towards the woman
Speranzella”:
he loved in the 1958 film Totò in Paris.Today, Cuoppo allesse is a much used fixed expression in Naples and it refers to a clumsy woman, which quality is not beauty. The etymology of the word indicates that the term Cuoppo derives from the Latin “coppam” which means barrel, but its size is certainly larger that the one of the cone shaped paper. Therefore, the term comes from the Latin masculine form “coppum” which indicates a smaller receptacle.
"Donn’Amalia ‘a Speranzella, quanno frie paste crisciute, mena ll’oro’int’ ‘a tiella, donna’Amalia ‘a Speranzella. Che bellezza chillu naso
The term “Cuppetiello”, instead, becomes packet or bundle in Italian, nouns that do not refer to the shape of the wrapping expressed with the Neapolitan “cuoppo” useful today to contain
ncriccatiello e appuntatiello, chella vocca ‘e bammeniello, e chill’ucchie, e chella faccia
several things. As a matter of fact, besides the chestnuts’ cuoppo, one of the street food specialties in Naples is the “cuoppo di fritti”. In the past, at a price of 1000 lire, you bought 3-4
mmiez’ ‘e tìttelle e ‘a vurraccia Pe sta femmena cianciosa Io farria qualunque cosa!…
pieces or, as we say in Naples, a bit of “robba amiscata” to intend at least one piece of each components, also called “a otto”. Given the poverty of Neapolitan population, the
Piscitiello addeventasse, dint’ ‘o sciore m’avutasse, m’afferrasse sta manella,
fry cook agreed to a payment by instalments up to 8 days after the effective purchase.
mme menasse ‘int ‘a tiella donn’Amalia ‘a Speranzella!"
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Recently, in the city centre you can find typical
find numerous variants, such as the “cuoppo di
small shops, called Cuopperie, that sell the
pesce” with calamari, squids, shrimps, shortfin
“cuoppo di pesce” with the day’s catch (in
squid, “fravagli” and cod and in its sweet variant,
Neapolitan “paranza”, more info in Neapolitan
instead, we can find the “graffe” with sugar.
lessons at page ?) or only fried anchovies that
Where does all this fried food come from? In the
Neapolitans eat generally at home, pouring the
well-known film “L’oro di Napoli”, Sofia Loren
fish fry with lemon juice and drinking a sip of
fries and gives pizzas to everyone who asks for
cool white whine. The ancient cuoppo is made
them, writing down their name for the eight-day
up with the “Zeppola”, also defined
payment. The typical home in the Neapolitan
“pastacrisciuta” or “aria fritta”. It is a dough of
alleys was the “basso”, a small, working class
water, flour and yeast and that is the reason
accomodation which was made up with one
why the fry cook in Naples is also called
room where all the members of the family lived.
“Zeppaiuolo”. Can we only find Zeppole? Obviously not. We can find the “Panzarotto” made up without eggs and breading, with the potato smashed rigorously with a fork; the “pallina di riso” which is the miniature but not stuffed version of her Sicilian sibling; the “Melanzana indorata e fritta”in which, unlike the other recipes that include eggplants, the slice is cut round and not vertically and it is fried after being dived in a light batter. Last but not the least, we can find the “Scagliozzo di Polenta”. It has very ancient origins trackable in the humble cuisine and it is the only way you eat the Polenta in Naples. Originally, the leftover “polenta” hardened drying itself out, and it was fried after being cut
roughly. There are also some seasonal variants. The “zeppola” in blooming time was stuffed with “ciurilli” (squash blossoms) and sometimes with algae. Nowadays, in addition to the classic fried bequeathed by ancient generations, we can
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“O per e ‘o muss” is a typical dish of Campania, particuarly from the Agro Nocerino Sarnese and Naples. Today, it is defined as street food. The noun literally means the foot and the snout and it has several dialectal shades acording to the areas of Campania in which it i salso called “musso e puorco” or “musso d’ ‘o puorco” (snout of the pork), even if only the foot of the pork is used (while the snout is from the calf).
Often, in order to make up their poor wages, the tenants supplemented their hefty incomes with chip shops and pizzerias rustled up in the alleys: they prepared a small shop window with the offered ingredients and brought the cauldron in the street, where they fried the doughs. These are the first Neapolitan pizzerias because having an oven at home was too much onerous, while frying was suitable for everyone. Habit that derives from the popular tradition of poor people used to throw anything away, besides the unique taste and the low price.
These giblets (foot of the pork, snout of the calf, but also the uterus of the cow, the rectum, the four stomaches of the calf and the feet of the goat) are accurately shaved first, then boiled, cooled, cut in small pieces and then served cold flavoured with
salt and lemon juice.This kind of product is available in traditional small shops and butcher shops and you can also find it frequently sold by peddlers, in
stands or apecars.
In the past, the itinerant salting was realised by sprinkling, thanks to a characteristic tool, a
Curiosity: 100 grams of this meal represent an energetic value of 281 calories or kilocalories or 1 160 kilojoule!!!!
dispenser made of an animal horn pierced on the
top.This tool is still in use among few vendors.
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"Miss mia cara Miss, nu’ cuoppo allesse io divento per te". BY " TOTÒ A PARIGI" MOVIE, 1958.
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LIMONCELLO & ZINGARA by DISCOVER NAPLES photo LISA SICIGNANO
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Liqueur was born really to the beginnings of 1900, in a small pension of the Isola Azzurra, where Mrs Maria Antonia Farace took care of a luxuriant garden of lemons and oranges. Her nephew, in the postwar period, it opened an activity of proper ristorazione in the proximities of the villa of Axel Munte. The specialty of that cafes was really the liqueur of lemons realized with the ancient recipe of her grandmother. In 1988, her child Massimo Canale started in turn a small handicraft production of limoncello recording the mark of it in 1988. But in reality, also to Sorrento and Amalfi, there are legends and stories about the production of the traditional yellow liqueur. In coastline, the history, for instance, narrates that the great families sorrentine, to the beginnings of 1900, they never made to miss to the illustrious guests a taste of limoncello, realized according to the traditional recipe.
To Amalfi, there is who sustains straight that liqueur has very ancient origins, almost tied up to the cultivation of the lemon. Nevertheless, as it often happens in these circumstances, the truth is nebulous and the hypotheses are so many and suggestive. Someone thinks that the limoncello was used from the fishermen and from the farmers to the morning to fight the cold, already to the times of the invasion of the Saracens. Others, believe instead, that the recipe was born inside a monastic convent to delight the monks between a prayer and another. The truth we will never know it, but the traditional yellow liqueur has been crossing for decades the frontiers, conquering the markets middle world. The recipe Ingredients: Great lemons of Sorrento Alcol to 95° 500 ml Sugar 600 g Water 750 ml
To realize the limoncello washed the lemons under the throw of the running water, rubs the peel with a new sponge to eliminate possible impurities, therefore you dry the lemons with a towel. You peel the lemons with a potato peeler, you must pick up only the yellow bark and not the white part that it would result bitter. You take a container of glass with hermetic closing, versed to the inside the alcohol and the barks of the lemons, close again the jar and allow to soak the barks in the alcohol for 30 days in a place oxen and away from sources of heat. After 30 days recovered the barks and you prepare the syrup: in a saucepan poured the water and the sugar, you bring the syrup to the excitement, once reached the excitement, you extinguish the fire and you allow to cool completely. You pour the syrup in the container with the barks of lemon. You shake the jar to mix the syrup, therefore let it still rest for 40 days, always to the oxen away from sources of heat. Then you take back the jar with the liqueur, shake it and then filter it with a strainer and you pick up the liqueur inside a bottle. Your homemade limoncello is ready to be tasted.
1977, Italy was living one of the most troubled periods of its recent history: those so called “anni di piombo” (lead years). But not in Ischia. Only news of national issues were arriving in the island. In the ‘70s the island was strongly growing in tourism, which granted economic and social improvements, that were surprising, considering the conditions of the island after the war. If you were resourceful and with good will, you could make your ambitions become true. A.M. and M.A. were two boys from Ischia, who had ideas, and could make them real.
In the summer of that year, they decided to open a pubrestaurant in the astonishing “borgo marinaro” of Ischia. It was a success! The guys were working all night long every day, and in this joyful and hardworking moment, the idea of the “zingara” came out, giving birth to one of the symbols of the island. The most important ingredient was right around the corner: the historical bakery “Boccia” was located a hundred meters far from the pub. The bread slices were the main ingredient, which the two boys filled with mayo, salad, tomatoes, “fior di latte” and prosciutto. Price: 900 lire!
THE RECIPE P.
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INGREDIENTS
PROCEDURE
2 SLICES OF “CAFONE” BREAD, 1.5/2 CM THICK; TOMATO; MAYONNAISE; PROSCIUTTO; LETTUCE; “FIOR DI LATTE” OR MOZZARELLA.
1) Spread the mayonnaise on both slices, add 2 or 3 lettuce leaves, thin tomato slices, high quality prosciutto (San Daniele or Parma), “fior di latte” or mozzarella (they don’t have to be too juicy, or the bread will get too wet). 2) Close the sandwich and put it on the grill or in a pan (covering it if necessary). 3) Turn it on the other side when it becomes crunchy. Make sure that the filling is hot enough, and the mozzarella is melt. Cut it in the middle and serve hot. 4) ENJOY YOUR MEAL !!!
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DISCOVER BACOLI AND MISENO BY GIORGIO NUGNES PHOTO LISA SICIGNANO After eulogize in the previous issue of Baia's beauty and history, our trip ends in the nearby Bacoli and Capo Miseno, the extreme tip of the peninsula of Flegrea, in a favorable position to reach the islands of Ischia and Procida with private boats. Just as Baia, Bacoli and Cape Miseno were considered the resorts of the ancient Romans who called it Bauli. In the Augustan era, Bacoli became even the main military outpost and elective capital of politics, culture and the world with the nearby Bay. The Roman Empire fell because of some geological phenomena such as bradyseisms. Today, the town of Bacoli includes both Miseno, the home of the tomb of the legendary Misenus (the trumpeter of Aeneas), and Miliscola (damilitum schola), home of the Roman emperor's praetorian fleet, as well as a small portion of the ancient Greek town of Cuma. Bacoli is one of the areas most frequented by tourists and also by Neapolitans themselves. Located just over 20 kilometers from Naples, the seaside town is one of the symbols of the summer season. Spacious and open beaches almost throughout the day. From 7 am to 3 pm at night in Miseno you can spend a good part of summer with your feet in the sand. Prices are quite competitive compared to other areas of Naples such as Posillipo or the same islands. Even eating fish a few steps Â
from the sea is possible and it does not cost much. There are several restaurants that take advantageous menus for customers who in return for 20-25 euros can enjoy typical fish dishes. But Bacoli is not just beaches and sea. It is also much more thanks to the inheritance accumulated in its centuries of history. From the Mirabilis pool to the remains of the Hundred Camerelle, ending with Casina Vanvitelliana, a real jewel in the middle of the sea. MIRABILIS SWIMMING: So called for the impeccability of its plant, it was the final connection of the 96-meter-long Serino aqueduct, which ended at Bacoli in this huge Augustinian cistern, excavated entirely in the rock. The Mirabile Swimming Pool really looks like a highly suggestive place for the light games it is subjected to, which makes it look like an underground gothic cathedral. Beyond that this huge cistern dug into the tuff is a tank over 70 meters long, 25 feet wide and 15 feet high built to contain about 12,600 m of water needed for supplying the soldiers of the base Ship of Miseno. Things to know: visits from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 6 pm, booking: 39 333 68 53 278, info: bacoli.it CENTO CAMERELLE: Narrows and long tunnels dug into the rock that ends to peak on the beautiful sea of Bacoli. The Centocamerelle were certainly the cistern and the aqueducts of a famous Villa of the Royal Baiana, whose owner was Q. Hortense Ortalo.
Horticulture Ortalo was a well-known Roman speaker, who was nicknamed by Cicero Tritone because of his craving for fish, and according to historians, he wept long for the premature death of a deer to him very dear. The villa of Ortalio Ortalo was purchased by Antonia Minore, Druso's wife, and then passed into the hands of Emperor Nerone, all known for the fire in Rome. Nerone transformed this marvelous villa, in a place where the cruelest atrocities were being carried out, and for this reason, the residence of Hortense Ortal was named the Nerone's prisons. What to know: visits from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 6 pm, booking: 39 0815233199, info: bacoli.it P.
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CASINA VANVITELLIANA: Designed by Carlo Vanvitelli, son of the famous Luigi Vanvitelli, author of the Royal Palace of Caserta, for King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon. The small residence on an island of Lake Fusaro was understood as the place used by the king to rest after hunting and fishing hunting, but in reality, the Casina Vanvitelliana was used for loving appointments between the King and the Duchess Of Florida Lucia Migliaccio. Probably the enchanted Casina is born on the remains of a former Roman building, which were joined by Vanvitelli, the volcanic stones which are then the foundation of the whole structure. Subsequently, King Ferdinand IV decided to P .
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allocate the Casina Vanvitelliana as a residence forthe illustrious guests of his kingdom: in the magical Casina of Fusaro Lake, the Emperor Francis II of Austria was hosted with his wife, Prince of Saxony, Prince Of Metternich, the Tsar of Russia. The Royal Casina enchanted artists such as W. A. Mozart, G. Rossini, and the same writer A. Dumas, the author of the famous "The Three Musketeers" novel. Unfortunately, this wonder built on the Isle of Lake Fusaro met another two moments of profound decline: the first during the Parthenopean Revolution of 1799 was plundered by the Lazarus who also damaged the paintings of Hackert, and the second during the Second Conflict World that was
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definitely devastated by the occupation troops. Today, the Casina Vanvitelliana has been restored and entrusted with the management of the Campano Fishermen Center: the Casina has become the ideal place for exhibitions, conventions, and concerts. Moreover, in recent years it is possible to celebrate civil marriages in Bacoli in the Vanvitellian opera. Things to know: Visits Saturday from 3 pm to 6 pm, Sunday from 11 am to 8 pm. Cost 3 euros. Contacts: 39 3484288342 - 39 3381069841. Info: bacoli.it
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[And Neapolitans] create art from the sun. C A M I L L O
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A TRIP TO DISCOVER POSILLIPO BY DISCOVER NAPLES PHOTO PIETRO SCOLORATO
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Pusilleco (Posillipo in Italian) is derived from the Greek Pausilypon (literally means "a shiver of danger" or "ending pain", a name related to the panorama that was enjoyed two thousand years ago from this area of Naples, a fascinating headland completely covered by Rocks and trees, mentioned in the sources of the ancient Greeks, the first inhabitants of the area, were fascinated by the Romans who fell in love with the breathtaking panorama of the Gulf of Naples, the Sorrentine peninsula, Vesuvius and Capri, in the 1st century BC they were built to Want Roman knight Publio Vedio Pollione The Villa Imperiale, also called Villa di Pollione, today as the journey to the Roman Imperial Villa starts from the imposing cave of Seiano until it reaches the archaeologicalenvironmental complex thatÂ
contains part of the ancient vestiges of the Since the Second World War to today, the area of Posillipo has undergone heavy reconstruction but has preserved To several historic buildings, including Villa Rosebery, a residence owned by the President of the Republic. Moving on the Cape Posillipo head you can admire and visit the Gaiola submerged park (established in 2002) jointly by the Ministries of the Environment and Cultural Heritage in the waters surrounding the Gaiola islets. Marechiaro is a small hamlet in the Posillipo district of Naples. It was in the 1960s one of the symbols of sweet life in Italy, becoming famous for its Hollywood activities, for its typical restaurants overlooking the splendid view of the Gulf and the characteristic "Scoglione".
The particularity that most contributed to the mitigation of this village is the so-called Fenestella (in Italian window). Legend has it that the poet and writer Neapolitan Salvatore Di Giacomo, seeing a small window on whose sill was a carnation, had the inspiration for what is one of the most famous Neapolitan songs: Marechiare. Even today it is the landscape to make it a master, like what can be admired from the surrounding areas Palazzo Donn'Anna, also the place of ancient legends. In popular beliefs, Donn'Anna would have been confused with Queen Giovanna D'Angiò, who used to wear passionate nights with young and authentic fishermen. As a religious mantis, he had the "vice" to kill his lovers at dawn, throwing them out of the
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windows of the palace or a trap-door that was directly on the rocks.The spirits of these wretched people would still be wandered in the underground of the building. According to others, the Queen used to access from the sea to secretly lure lovers on a boat. There is also the legend that tells Matilde Serao in his "Neapolitan Legends". Donna Anna would have had a lover, the noble Gaetano of Casapenna, who had a gala evening. During one of these evenings, the granddaughter of the hostess, the beautiful and young Mercedes de Las
Torres, would take part in a small theatrical drama organized for the event, together with Gaetano, and during the final stage the girl would have exchanged a passionate kiss And "true" with the noble Gaetano, triggering the jealousy of Donna Anna, the only one. In the following days, there were a lot of differences between the two women, until the young Mercedes disappeared, leaving no trace of himself. There is someone who said she had taken refuge in the convent, who told Donna Anna how she was responsible, but she did not know anything about the girl. Someone said that he was executed secretly in the underground subdivisions of
Donna Anna and that his body and spirit were left there. It seems, among other things, that Gaetano desperately sought her, really in love, for a very long time, until, now without tears, lost her life in battle. Legend has it that the presence of Donna Anna, the persecution of the two young lovers, has remained indelible in the foundations of the palace. Mercedes and Gaetano would still seek for eternity, even in death by the jealousy of those who wanted that love not to blossom even in life.
The hill of Posillipo is crossed by four main roads almost parallel, we point out finally, other points from which to admire the splendid panorama of the Gulf of Naples: via Posillipo running parallel to the coast from Mergellina to the head Posillipo, via Francesco Petrarca (already "Via Panoramica") in a higher position with features on the Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius, Parco Virgiliano where you can admire the bay of Trentaremi, the ramps of Sant'Antonio (also known as the thirteen descents of Sant 'Antonio ).
Note The Marine Protected Area can be visited by boat sightseeing tours, snorkeling and diving routes. The Visitor Center is located at the CeRD Scientific Research and Discovery Center of the Park, where educational and educational activities are carried out for schools and training activities. The Park Visitor Center is open to the public every day except Monday from 10 am to 4 pm (10 am to 2 pm in the winter). It is possible to visit Villa Rosebery upon a mandatory booking at a cost of € 1.50. The reservation is nominal, non-transferable. We advise you to book online (well in advance) on the Quirinal site or by calling the Call center, tel. 06 39.96.75.57 Monday to Friday 09.00-13.00 / 14.00-17.00, Saturday 09.00-14.00, closed on Sundays. An INFOPOINT is also available at Montecavallo 15, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from 9 am to 5 pm.
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"The big building stands in the sea. It was not broken, but it was never over; It does not fall, it will not fall, as the strong sea breeze solidifies and dampens the walls since the wave of the sea is not as bad as the lakes and rivers, it suffers but does not corrode. The tall, wide windows, without windows, resemble the eyes without thinking ... By night the building becomes black, intensely black; The sky on her head is shining, the tall and beautiful stars shine, the Posillipo sea is phosphorous, the lost villas in the woods come out with melancholy songs of love and the melancholic notes of the mandolin: the building is dark and under its vaults it lurks 'sea wave‌ "
JULY/AUG EVENTS BY CIRO CUOZZO
EXHIBITIONS Pompeii Theatrum Mundi When: June 22 to July 23, 2017 Hours: 9 to 19.30 (last entry 18) Where: Pompei's great theaterPrice ticket: various promotions from 15-30 euros Art, History and Poetry - Tribute to Carlo Poerio When: July 21 to August 6, 2017 Hours: 10.30-13.30 Where: Castello dell'Ovo di Napoli Prices: Winckelmann and the MANN collections - from 24 June to 25 September When: June 25 - September 25 Hours: 9-19.30 every day, closed on Tuesdays Where: National Archaeological Museum of Naples Prices: Full 12 euro. Reduced 6 euros. Evening entrance 2 euros Jan Fabre. Naturalia and Mirabilia by Sylvain Bellenger and Laura Trisorio When: July 1 - October 22, 2017 Hours: 10-19 Sundays Wednesdays; 10-22 fridaysaturday Where: Museum of Capodimonte Prices: info@luisamaradei.it
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The next day I left with sorrow those lovely beaches of Naples that had been fatal twice: I could not greet her with his eyes, but the heart harmonized with his palpits the most beautiful hymn of departure. I P P O L I T O
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"Totò genius" events in Naples When: April 13 - July 9, 2017 Hours: 10-19 Sundays - Wednesdays; 10-22 friday-saturday Where: Angioino Male, Royal Palace and Monumental Complex of San Domenico Maggiore. Prices: 6 euro for the single exhibition - 12 euro for all exhibitions - reduced 1 show 4 euro - three exhibitions 9 euro Museo Madre English for foreigners Stephen Prina: from 15 May to 16 October 2017 We arrived Wade Guyton: from 15 May to 11 September 2017 Where: Museo Madre, Via Luigi Settembrini, 79 Time: from Monday to Saturday: 10.00 19.30 | Sunday: 10.00 - 20.00 | Closed on Tuesday Price: Full ticket 7 euro, Reduced ticket 3.50 euro. Free entry on Monday
Festival of Photo in Capri IX edition Capri: an island for the photo. The ideal Collection Where: Charterhouse of St. James, Fourth of the Prior, Capri Opening: Saturday 24 June 2017, 19.00h When: 25 June - 23 July 2017 Time: 10-19 from Tuesday to Sunday Artists exhibition: Marina Alessi, Andrea Alfano, Maria Vittoria Backhaus, Isabella Balena, Olivo Barbieri, Gian Paolo Barbieri, Settimio Benedusi, Silvia Camporesi, Cesare Cicardini, Nicola Cicognani, Lorenzo Cicconi Massi, Francesco Maria Colombo, Roberto Cotroneo, Paola De Pietri, Paola Di Bello, Franco Fontana, Maurizio Galimberti, Betta Gancia, Giovanni Gastel, Piero Gemelli, Mario Giacomelli, Giacomo Giannini, Alberto Giuliani, Elena Givone, Alessandro Grassani, Francesco Jodice, Mimmo Jodice, Cosmo Laera, Alizia Lottero, Uliano Lucas, Raffaela Mariniello, Paola Mattioli, Giuseppe Mastromatteo, Malena Mazza,Â
Francesco Merlini, Andrea Micheli, Nino Migliori, Davide Monteleone, Marco Pasini, Roberto Polillo, Efrem Raimondi, Filippo Romano, Andrea Rovatti, Ferdinando Scianna, Emanuele Scorcelletti, Paolo Simonazzi, Massimo Siragusa, Paolo Solari Bozzi, Gaia Squarci, Daniele Tamagni, Lady Tarin. Picasso and Naples: Parade. A show, a vision, an artwork When: April 8 - July 10 Hours: 8.30-19.30-20 daily, closed Wednesday Where: Museum of CapodimontePrice: 10 euro Full Show, 8 euro Reduced Show12 euro Exhibition + Museum Mother Museum English for foreigners Stephen Prina: May 15 to October 16, 2017 We arrived Wade Guyton: May 15 to September 11, 2017 Where: Mother Museum, Via Luigi Settembrini, 79 Timetables: Monday to Saturday: 10.00 - 19.30 Sunday: 10.00 20.00 | Closed Tuesday Prices: Full Euro 7, Reduced 3.50 Euros, Reduced Euro Reserved Groups. Free on Mondays
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Campania Artecard: Museums, monuments, theaters, archaeological sites ... All in one card!
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Events and Concerts San Marzano Day
Pausylipon - Suggestioni all'imbrunire
When: July 31, 2017
When: July 8 and July Where: Seiano
Where: Tomato Gardens San Marzano
Cave (Descent Coroglio, 36 - Naples)
DOP;
Hours: 18 o'clockPrice: July 8: 10
The Naples Festival - Naples meets the
euros. July 15: 15 euros
World 2017 When: 7-8-9 July Where: Overseas
Noisy Naples Fest
ExhibitionOrari: 18-3Price: 10 Euros
When: from June to September 2017
Adults and Boys Over 13
Where: Ethel Arena Flegrea in the Overseas Exhibition - via J.F.Kennedy,
Social World Film Festival
54 and via Terracina 197
When: July 23-30
Prices: depending on individual events
Where: Vico Equense (Naples) Prices and timetables:
• Alvaro Soler Concert
socialfestival.com
• Jarabe de Palo Concert • LP Concert
Jarabedepalo "20 ANOS"
• Justice Concert
Prices, times and dates • Shows in collaboration with the San When: July 14, 2017 hours 21Where:
Carlo Theater: The Magic Flute, The
Arena Flegrea, Overseas Exhibition
Barber of Seville and Cinderella
NaplesPrice ticket: low cavea 25 euro / high cavea 15euro
• Concert with Harry Potter Orchestra and Philosopher's Stone: 15% discount
Sant'Elmo Estate 2017 - Jazz, Pop and
on all sectors
Rock When: various dates from 7 to 31 July
• Alvaro Soler: Cavea Low - 25 €
2017 hours 21,30 Where: Castel
instead of 38 € - Cavea Alta- 15 €
Sant'Elmo, via Tito Angelini, 22
instead of 25 €
NapoliPrezzo ticket: from 18 to 25 euro
HOW AND WHEN
The best way to visit Naples is in a scooter or subway with Line 1 (also an opportunity to visit the "Art Stations"). You can also use the funicular, Metro line 2 (to reach the Flegrea area) and coaches (but which travel less frequently). Therefore, if you have times to be respected (such as departures, commitments or appointments), please first inform the ANM website. An unforgettable opportunity is to be able to visit the city with the Sightseeing bus. For those who want to reach the coast by car, (though the best way is with the Sea Meter) pay attention to traffic. For those who are moving in the city with the car, here are the info for any queues: every day direction and stretch Corso Malta in both directions; To and from Vomero (from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 3:30 pm to 8:00 pm except Saturdays and Sundays); In the matches of the Napoli football team avoid the exit of the Fuorigrotta ring road and the San Paolo stadium area. In the weekend evenings on the seafront of Mergellina where it is possible to hire bicycles (it is not advised to use it to move from low areas to highs of the city causing strong slopes). Those arriving from the airport to the center can take the taxi or the bus "Alibus" (the stop is almost outside the Capodichino Airport, leaving immediately after the Taxi station). P . 4 7
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DO YOU SPEAK NEAPOLITAN?
Rione Terra.
Diving in a "cufaniello": To perform it perfectly, a fetal position must be taken in flight: the knees must be brought to the chest and the whole body must enclose itself as a "casket". The impact noise with the water and the smoldering quantity of sketches are the characteristics that make this dip very famous among Neapolitan bathers.
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Discover Team Journalist
Ciro Cuozzo
Journalist
Giorgio Nugnes
Photographer
Lisa Sicignano
Photographer
Pietro Scolorato
Translations Graphics
For questions, curiosities or subscribe to our newsletter, please contact us at:
Discover Naples Team Lisa Sicignano
Press & Adv office
info@discovernaples.eu
hello@discovernaples.eu
Discover Naples web: discovernaples.eu #discovernaplesmagazine we're on Instagram, Youtube and Vimeo, follow us!
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Walking around the streets is a sensory experience: confusion, children playing (or diving into improvised pools), the "smell" of food that pervades the streets .. ...AND YOU STAY FRESH!
The beauty of Naples grows day by day, week by week, as it discovers its secrets. As long as you come to realize that this is really the most beautiful gulf on earth. G U I D O
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