PRIMO: Línea de accesorios contenedores de cuero para el nuevo público masculino, producido según los principios del Movimiento Slow.
Tesis presentada a la Escuela de Diseño de la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile para optar al título profesional de Diseñador
María Isabel Ibáñez Guzmán Profesora Guía: Soledad Hoces de la Guardia Julio 2014 | Santiago, Chile
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
!"#$%& !"#$%&'(()*"+
,
!"#$%&'(()*"+ -./'0."+ 1%#)23()%"./+4.$/%"35./+
, , 6
7/#3&%+&.5+8$#.+
9
:;+1.$(3&%+ =;+>.0."#3()*"?+3((./%$)%/+03/('5)"%/+ A;+B)/#%$)3+&.+5%/+3((./%$)%/+ C;+D/%+&.+3((./%$)%/+."+.5+0'"&%+3(#'350."#.+ ,;+D/%+&.+3((./%$)%/+."+EF)5.+ 6;+G)H%5%IJ3+&.+5%/+3((./%$)%/+ 9;+G."&."()3/+ K;+4$%L'"&)M3"&%+."+.5+>5%N+O3/F)%"++ <;+13$(3/+>5%N+O3/F)%"+5%(35./+
< :@ := =: =A =, =9 =< A=
!"2./#)I3()*"+
A,
:;+!"2./#)I3()*"+&.5+'/'3$)%+ =;+8"P5)/)/+&.+5%/+$./'5#3&%/++
A9+ C:
8"#.(.&."#./+Q+-.L.$."#./+
CA
:;+-.L.$."#./+ =;+8"#.(.&."#./+
C, C9
4$%Q.(#%+
C<
:;+O%$0'53()*"+&.5+H$%Q.(#%+ =;+75+4$%&'(#%+ A;+R./3$$%55%+&.+53+13$(3+ C;+43(S3I)"I+ ,;+R)/#$)T'()*"+Q+&)L'/)*"+ 6;+7/#$3#.I)3+&.+".I%()%/+ 9;+4$%Q.(()%"./+
,: ,9+ 9@ 96 99 K, K9
E%"(5'/)*"U+E$V&)#%/+Q+W)T5)%I$3LJ3+
K<
:;+E%"(5'/)%"./+ =;+E$V&)#%/+ A;+W)T5)%I$3LJ3+
<: <= <A
8".X%/+
<,
:;+8".X%+Y:+ =;+8".X%+Y=+ A;+8".X%+YA+
<9 :@= :@C
INTRODUCCIÃ&#x201C;N
" " ! " $ # ! " " " ! $ # " $ ! " , % "#$ ! " " . "$ " ! $ # $' ! " " $ # ! !! # $ # % "#$ ! $ " % " $ ! " ! # "#*# " . "+ ! ! " # $ $ ! - ! % "#$ ! % "#$ ! " $ " ! "$ $ ! $ " !) # " ' !" ! $ ( "#*# ! $ # ! ' # ! $ #$ # % ! !# " ! " " % "#$ ! " $ # " $ ! " " " ! % $ $ ! ! ' # ! $ "# )" ! # # ! - $ ! " ! " " $ " ! " ! " # " - "# . " $
RESUMEN "# # " " ! "#$ ! ! #+#$ " , ! # % !" #- #! # " ! % "# - ' ! " " , $ - ) "$ " ! " # ! " " $ " " !! !# ! " ! " / " , # 0 " !) " " # " $ $"$ ! $# ( "$ % ! ! "# " ! $!! - " " " ' ( # " * " "- $ ! " $ % $ ! ! !# " " $ , " ! $ # ! " ' # ! " " ! $ " " &#! - " # ! ! ! " ! $ - ' "#! $ - "# " " ! "
5
MOTIVACIONES PERSONALES
$ ' " ! # & # ! #
" &
#
' ! % %
" !
! # !
' % !
# & ! $
!
& %
( $
( #
' % %
' %
#
% %
#
" !
' "
% % ! #
6
ESTADO DEL ARTE
8
1
MERCADO
/ -# #%56#-+&#& '- .'3%#&0 %*+-'/0 &' 7'456#3+0 9 %#-:#&0 *# 4+&0 0$,'50 &' 6/ 4045'/+&0 %3'%+.+'/50 ')@/ '- +/(03.' &' &' ('$3'30 &' '/ '- =/&+%' &' 7'/5#4 &'- %0.'3%+0 #- 103 .' /03 " -# -=/'# 7'456#3+0 %#-:#&0 9 #%%'403+04 5+'/' 6/# +/%+&'/%+# '/ '- #-:# &'- 4'%503 '%0/?.+%0 &' 505#- &' 11 '- .#903 %3'%+.+'/50 %0/ 6/ 1 ')@/ '- 3'1035' &'- 40$3' -# &+453+$6 %+?/ &' -04 )#4504 &' -# %#/#45# (#.+-+#3 *#9 6/# &+('3'/%+# '/ '- 13'4616'450 &'45+/#&0 #- =5'. 7'456#3+0 %#-:#&0 9 #%%'403+04 '/53' -#4 .6,'3'4 9 -04 *0.$3'4 #- .' /04 '/ -0 26' '4504 &'%-#3#/ )#45#3 2 / '45' #41'%50 '- .'3%#&0 &'45+/#&0 # -# .6,'3 '45; $#45#/5' .;4 &'4#330--#&0 26' '- &'- *0.$3' %0/ #.1-+# 0('35# &' 01%+0/'4 1#3# %0/(03.#3 6/ '45+-0 9 4')@/ -#4 %+(3#4 13'4'/5#&#4 #33+$# <45# &'45+/# .#903 1#35' &' 46 13'4616'450 '/ '- +5'. 7'456#3+0 %#-:# &0 9 #%%'403+04 @/ #4= )3#%+#4 # -# 130)3' 4+7# #1'3563# &'- .'3%#&0 9 -04 /6'704 40%+04 %0.'3%+#-'4 26' *+-' *# +&0 #&26+3+'/&0 %0/ -04 53#5#&04 &' -+$3' %0.'3%+0 4' *# 7+450 6/# A+/.+)3#%+?/B &' .#3%#4 '853#/,'3#4 26' '/3+ 26'%'/ -# 0('35# &' .0&# .#4%6-+/# ')@/ '456&+04 &' -# 40%+#%+?/ &' +4'>0 0/('%%+?/ 9 '85+- &' *+-' /6'4530 1#=4 '4 '- 26' .;4 )#45# 1'3 %;1+5# '/ 301# &' #5+ /0#.'3+%# ! #- #>0 4')6+&0 &' -',04 103 3)'/5+/# 9 "'/':6'-# '/530 &'- .'3%# &0 /#%+0/#- &' 7'45+&0 ! .+--0/'4 #- #>0 ! 4' %0/%'/53#/ '/ 301# ('.'/+ /# ! 13'/&#4 &' 7'45+3 &' *0.$3' 9 ! '/ +/(#/5+- # .#903=# 4' %0.'3%+# # 53#7<4 &' -04 )3#/&'4 3'5#+-'34 6 13'4+&'/5' 3/#-&0 -03'4 5#.$+</ *#$-? &'- &'4#(=0 26' &'$' #46.+3 /6'4530 .'3%#&0 5'85+- &' #)3')#3 7#-03 #- 130&6%50 /#%+0/#- #1307'%*#/&0 &' 1 6'/5' '$ 2 6'/5' .0- '15
3 6'/5' +#3+0 453#5')+# 6/
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
*
#4 %#&'/#4 &' 3'5#+- 103 46 -#&0 *#/ &+7'3 4+(+%#&0 46 0('35# 1#3# 4#5+4(#%'3 -#4 /'%'4+&# &'4 &' -04 &+45+/504 1@$-+%04 0/ '- .'3%#&0 '/ .'/5' *#/ 4#$+&0 %3'#3 -=/'#4 1#3# &+45+/ 504 4'%503'4 9 -#4 0%#4+0/'4 %0/ -#4 26' &'$'/ -+&+#3 %0/ 3#/)04 &' %#-+&#& 9 13'%+0 '41'%+# -'4 1#3# %#&# 6/0 4 #4= %0.0 '/ 6/# .+4.# 5+'/&# 4' '/%6'/53#/ 13'/&#4 &'1035+7#4 1#3# 0%#4+0/'4 (03.#-'4 0 %#46#-'4 1#3# /+>0 #&0 -'4%'/5' ,07'/ 9 #&6-50 03 0530 -#&0 '- %0.'3%+0 +/(03.#- &=)#4' ('3+#4 1'34#4 $#:#3'4 9 7'/5# %#--','3# 0(3'%'/ 6/# #-5'3/#5+7# #- %0.'3%+0 '45#$-'%+&0 3'%6 33+'/&0 # 301# 64#&# 9 # 7'%'4 # #35=%6-04 (#- 4+(+%#&04 0 30$#&04
9
2
SEGMENTACIÃ&#x201C;N: ACCESORIOS MASCULINOS
'!(!)/* 0. * + - *(+'!(!)/ - 0) + -%!) % * !./%'* ! (* - /!- 0" ) &*3 . !/ *+ ,0! .! +*)! * ''!1 +!-* )* !. + -/! !' 1!./0 -%* +-%) %+ ' %$ ( % " #%
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
10
'+ '+ /1) +$ 3 ) $ ""%) ) (3 #1) $ 5#% % & (% " ) %$) + $ ) $% ) (3 $ $ %#& ( " ) %$ " ) & ) ( +$ 3 ) $ / & *%) % ) $ & $* "%$ ) " % , )* % $ # ( % ) )* ( '+ ) 3 " (# ( +$ # $ $ "% ( + $ % )%" # $* &( $ ) , )* ( )* ) ( $ ) ( *( # $ # $* &%* $* ) $ )3 & ( &% ( &( ) $ ( + "'+ ( %#&" # $*% " )%( % +#&" " +$ 5$ 8 * (9 " ) & / ) , )*+ ( % $ +$ $* %*- ' )4 0) )0!1 '7)! /!( +*- !) * .%9) !)-%,0! % *) 0) .!-%! ! !.*-%*. ,0! !) .0 *+%)%9) !- ) %) %.+!). '!. + - '*#- - 0) %( #!) /*/ ' - ) 3 !0)%..!) + 6$ ( %$% $ % )+ (1 * ( &( ) $ " "%) )%( %) +#&" $ & ( " ) )% ) (%" ) #&%(* $* ) &% (3 " ( %) &(%&5) *%) &( $ & " ) '+ +#&" " )%( % $ " , )* # $* &%( +$ " % )*1 " (%" +$ %$ " . &%( " %*(% " (%" %#+$ %$ " # %) &+ $ # / " () $ +$ )%( % $ # .%( % # $%( # " (%" +$ %$ " " )%( % ) (3 ( " / ( " 6$ &%(* " , )*+ ( % $ *2(# $%) )+ ! * ( 4 ( )%)* $ ( %$* $ ( ( ( ( ( ) ( )" ( #%" ( * ) ( +#&" ( " 6$ $ +* " * ( % %( )+&+ )*% ) "+ "%) $*+(%$ ) * ( $* ) %")%) )%# ( (%) + $* ) . # ) ) " (%" %#+$ %$ " &( * $ ( +$ # $
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
11
3
HISTORIA DE LOS ACCESORIOS
./* ( - -6 "0!-/!(!)/! !./ %)1!./%# %:) ' $! $* ! ,0! '*. * &!/*. ! *-) (!)/ %:) ,0! .! $ ) $ '' * *--!.+*) ) +-%) %+ ' (!)/! /0( . * $ 4 ) .% * ! 0 % *. ! -!+-!.!)/ %*)!. ! #!)/! +* !-*. 4 -% !& 0) #- ) 1 8* !) !' *)* %(%!)/* -!.+! /* ' 0.* ! !.*-%*. !) ' . + . & . ! ' .* %! $ ./ +*- '* (!)*. ' !1*'0 %:) ) 0./-% ' ./* !. 0) +!,0!9 ' - %:) + - /!)!- !) 0!)/ 0- )/! !' -!./* ! ' '! /0- )- ., $ $)( - # ( , "$ ) &) & ,") & #$-.),$ & , & $6( (., / ,*) 1 0 - .$ ) & ., $ $6( & -(/ '$ (.) ),$" ( ",$ ") 1 & ., $ $6( & , / ,$ '$ (.) ),$" ( %/ ) ,$-.$ () ,/2 ' (3 , *
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
12
'* 2 ,)( ,, ,- $2+/$ , , # '$ (., - +/ * , & - '/% , - -$( *,) & ' - ! (- - , # $2+/$ , * 8 & '/% , -)&4 )&) ,- & ($5) & * #) )( & , 2) $2+/$ , ) 4 "/ , , & ' () , # &$ , * , ,$, !3 $& ' (. -/ ),*$5) 1 -4 *) , &$' (. , & #$%) '$ (., - +/ & #)' , *) 4 -. !),' " ,, , !3 $&' (. )( & ' () , # & ,' +/ - )&) ( & & ) $2+/$ , ) & ( , - * 0!- ! !. . +!,0!9 . %"!-!) % . !.*-% . ' 1!./%(!)/ )* !- ' ,0! $ 8 +!- !+/% '! !' .!3* ! .0 +*-/ *- ! $! $* )* "0! $ ./ "%) '!. !' ! %*!1* ,0! .! *(!)5: .!+ - - !' /- &! + - '*. *. .!3*. ' $*( -! !(+!5: 1!./%- +-!) . ! +%!-) . .!+ - . '5 . '5*)!. 4 + )/ '*)!.
' *-%#!) ! '*. !.*-%*. .! -!(*)/ '*. *-8#!)!. ! ' $0( )% 0)/* *) (! %*. ! (* %"% %:) *-+*- ' *(* .*) ' +%)/0 - +!-"*- %*)!. !. -%"% %*)!. 4 / /0 &!. ' !.*-%5 %:) "0! 0) ! ' . (;'/%+'!. !3 +-!.%*)!. *-) (!)/ '!. ' . ,0! -! 0--%: !' $*( -! +-%(%/%1* ) !' 9* .! !) *)/- -*) !) 0 6"-% +%!5 . ! *) $ +!-"*- 4 +%)/ . ! * -! !) 0) 4 %(%!)/* 04 / !. ! 9*. - ) 4 !0)%..!) + !' )/ ) * 0)*. 9*. ' + -% %:) ! ' . +-%(!- . /-% 0 %*)!. ! 1 '*- .%( :'% * * &!/*. )* "0) %*) '!. /-*. $ '' 5#*. !) /0( . + '!* '8/% . !(0!./- ) ' !3%./!) % ! *'' -!. 4 - 5 '!/!. ! 0!)/ . ! +%! - %!)/!. ./
+%!5 . ! *) $ +!-"*- 4 +%)/ . ! * -! !) 0) 4 %(%!)/* 04 / !. ! 9*.
!4 ' !* ! %'*)% 0.!* ! !-'8) 0!)/! /$!.0 1!-.%1! - $ !*'*#%./ *( 0!)/! -! '$%./*-4222 *(
13
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
1/0+ ! 1 %1/ !.1/ .+) *+ )!0 +) !%*0!.,.!0 %:* ! 1* 2 /%& #.%!# !2% *0 .0 +)
14
0. 9+ -1! !( $+) .! 1/ . *1)!.+/+/ &+4 / 4 /!((+/ !* (+/ ! +/ , . !)+/0. . /1 ,!. 0!*!* % ( / " )%(% / ,+ !.+/ / /8 +)+ 0 ) %7* /! 2 (%!. ! (+/ !/0 ), +/ 0!9% +/ 4 .! +. !/ ! ( 0;*% , . 0 ( ,.+,:/%0+ !/ ( * .!/ , ( 2!*%)%!*0+ ! ( /1,.!) 8 .%/0% * !* + % !*0! ) . : 0 ) %7* ( !/"!. ! ( 1/+ ! (+/ !/+.%+/ *0!*0 * + /!#1%. !( ) * 0+ %2%*+ ! *+ .!* %. 1(0+ )6/ -1! %+/ ( / !5 / ! ( .!(%#%:* ,.+$% %!.+* !( 1/+ ! )1(!0+/ !*0.! /1/ /!#1% +.!/ !* !( /%#(+ .:*% )!*0! !/0+ .! +0: !* 1* #%# *0!/ !) * ,+. .!(% .%+/ 4 )! (( / ! !2+ %:* / *0+/ ,+. *+ )!* %+* . ( .! %:* ! .+ / .%+/ 4 0 (%/) *!/ , . #1 . . !( () !( %*"(1&+ !( !)+*%+ !/ ! (1!#+ *+ /! ,.!0!* ! "%.) . -1! (+/ !/+.%+/ 1. *0! !( "%* !( ),!.%+ +) *+ 4 !( ! %+!2+ "1!. * !3 (1/%2 )!*0! ! .6 0!. .!(%#%+/+ *% )1 $+ )!*+/ /0 *1!/0. 7,+ $ * ((!# + *1)!.+/ / )1!/0. / ! !/+.%+/ +)+ +(/ / ,.!* ! +.!/ #1& / 0+ +/ /+) .!.+/ %*01.+*!/ 4 &+4 / -1! * 0%!*!* -1! 2!. +* !( 1(0+
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
15
#$% " " $ #$
#$% " "" ' " .
#$%" " %#$" .
#$%" " + " * $
' % $ # #$ "' $
16
" # # $ #
)#$ % " # # # #$ # # '$ & %& " $.! ! %& " + ) %! * ' ! #' ! $ !$ * %! $ ! "! . " $ & $% $ !% %!$ !% ' #' %&!% & - ' " . ' ' / 0"$, & 1 $ " & ! $ % ! * ! "! . ( $ !* % ' #' % '. %& ! " $ & ! ( $ ' "$, & ! $ ! ! % ! ! ' $ " $ & $ %' % & ! ' $ ! !$ & $ * ' %% " %" $ # % " & % . %#$" " # *# "# # " "# " # # *# $ # $ " # & ( *# " $ # % " ( . #%$ ", # " $ # # - " # ' " !%
# - # 1 ( " , # # " # !% $ # " # #%# # " " # # !% # % " $" " ' " %$ ( " $ " # # $+ $ # " #$ # ' " # # # " " #% " # %, " " " " # $ # % % # " " % -% # % / " ## # $0 !% $%& " #%# $ # ' " # % % " # " #%# # % !* % %! ' ! !% . % ,% "$ %!% $ ! $ &! ' %! ( %' ' &'$ % % $ % % $'& ( #' ( "! ! ! %!$ ! * '%&! "!$ & $'+ , $ "
% $ $ '1#
17
, 4/4 -" /+ 3 " A $1?
- $+ " 2. "'(+$-. +.2 ""$2.1(.2 / 1 + 5$23(,$-3 %4$1.- #$2 11.++ #.2 ".- &$-$1. 2(# # /.1 -4$231 2 "4+341 2 /1$".+.,!(- 2 - + 2 "4+341 2 -#(- 2 +.2 13$2 -.2 24/($1.- /1.5$"' 1 ".- ' !(+(# # +.2 , 3$1( +$2 04$ +$ .%1$"< + - 341 +$9 %(!1 2 5$&$3 +$2 /+4 , 2 + - ,$3 +$2 /($#1 ".-"' 8 '4$2. 2 /1(-"(/ +$2 , -(%$23 "(.-$2 04$ 2$ 5$- $- + 9.- 2.- 3$73(+$2 %(-<2(,.2 $1" - ,$-3$ +(& #.2 ".- + 2 /1:"3(" 2 1$ +(&(.2 2 04$ -.1, ! - 3.# + 2."($# # +.2 ""$2.1(.2 3$-< - /1(-"(/ +,$-3$ 4- " 1:"3$1 "$1$,.-( + '*&'+ % ,3$" '+ '%' * 2 $ , + &" $$'+ ( ,'* $ + %3+ * + 1 ,-(-+ + ! & & '&,* ' ' +"'& $% &, '*& & ' - *('+ -$,'+ (*"& "( $% &, +' " '+ +","'+ "& " '+ & $ + - 2 ! 1 * , + "&+ *,'+ & $'+ $7 -$'+ $ '* # 9 '+ '$$ * + +'& ". *+'+ % , *" $ + , $ + '%' + %"$$ + '& ! + !- +' 1 (" * $$' 8 $7/1$2(.-$2 $2/$"3 "4+ 1$2 #$ .1- ,$- 3 "(>- ".- / 1 3.2.2 341! -3$2 8 3." #.2 #$
=.2 #$ -3(&@$# # $- 1(" 42 #.2 / 1 + #(%$1$-"( "(>- )$1:104(" ++$& # #$ +.2 ".-04(23 #.1$2 '(2/:-(".2 , 1"> ".,. 3.#. $+ 1$23. #$ + 5(# ".3(#( - $+ 42. #$ ""$2.1(.2 $-31$ +.2 /4$!+.2 .1(&(- 1(.2 5(.+$-3 (-31.#4""(>- $ (,/.2("(>- #$ 242 /1./( 2 ".234,!1$2 8 ".- $++. +.2 ,.#.2 #$ 5$23(1 " ,!(> $+ / -.1 , $- + "1$ "(>- #$ /($9 2 #$ #.1-. &" " +- "& -% &, *" $ ," + '$" $$ $ & ' , ,3& 2-$ )- %( 7 +"& ,* + & $ %-& ' !"+(3&" ' + $ , * * 4 $ +" $' ! +, (*"& " ("'+ $ . $'& ' * & - $$' , 4$-3$ 42$4,
18
($ &' 1 5 ' "& $- & " * & + + -+7 , % "4& & $ "** "& ,' '& ('+ , *"'*" 3+ )- &"& 8& ',*' "%($ % &,' $ ,- & ' % + -$"&' $ (*"% * 0(* + $ *3 , * *5 " ' $ %' $ **' ' !"+(3&" ' !5 )- $ ( $ * & '$ ' +" &" ")- ," +' *,'& ' 1 + 3& ! **'# * $ - *(' ** *$' + ( *3& '$' $ 2 ( * +, * 4+, '%' $ . * *' &,*' 1 ' ' $ ( *+'& ; *-2 % &3 * ( - $+ " 2. #$+ /4$!+. , /4"'$ $23.2 1$2(23($ 1.- + ".-04(23 -" 8 +4$&. + $2/ =.+ 2(- #$) 12$ #.,(- 1 /$1. $23. -. $5(3> 04$ 3., 1 - 8 ,$9"+ 1 - + 2 /($9 2 #$ 5$234 1(. /1./( 2 ".- + 2 04$ +$2 / 1$"($1.- (-3$1$2 -3$2 #$ +.2 $-$,(&.2 04$ , 3 ! - . " /341 ! - 2 2< ".,. 2$&?- &.2 2$ /.#< 5$1 4- , /4"'$ 5$23(#. ".- 24 /.-"'. 242 % ) 2 8 #$! ). 4- )4!>- #$ "4$1. . 4- 2 !.3 2 4 (- #$/$-#$-"( +$2 /$1,(3(> 2$&4(1 "4+3(5 -#. 242 , -(%$23 "(.-$2 "4+341 +$2 $-31$ $++ 2 + 13$ 2 -< 3$73(+ 8 24 ).8$1< 31 #("(.- + #$ /+ 3 + /4$!+. , /4"'$ ++$&> #.,(- 1 $23 ?+3(, ' 23 + 2 3;"-(" 2 #$ , 13(++ #. 1$".13 #. /4+(#. 8 /$1%.1 #. ".,!(-:-#.+ 2 / 1 /1. #4"(1 ).8$1< 1(34 + 8 #$ .1- ,$-3 "(>- 41 -3$ +.2 2(&4($-3$2 31$2 2(&+.2 + "+ 2$ #.,(- -3$ $2/ =.+ #$3$1,(-> +.2 / 31.-$2 #$+ 42. #$ 5$234 1(. $- $+ (11$(- 3. 04$ /.1 "($13. (-"+4< '(+$ . 2(&4(> ' "($-#. (- "+42. #$2/4;2 #$+ /1."$2. #$ -#$/$-#$-"( - # ,:2 04$ 31 5;2 #$ + 2 % ,(+( 2 "1(.++ 2 1(" 2 04$ (,/.13 ! - +.2 42.2 $41./$.2 4- 04$ ".- =.2 #$ 31 2. /.1 + +$-3(34# #$ + 2 ".,4-(" "(.-$2 8 $+ %(+31. 04$ $)$1"< - +.2 04$ 3$-< - ,$#(. / 1 5( ) 1 23$ ,$9"+ ! 42.2 31 2 #.2 31 <#.2 #$ 41./ ".- 3;"-( " 2 8 $+$,$-3.2 +." +$2 ,:2 ,$241 #.2 $- +
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
& '$"$$ +( 6'$
" &, + $ "& $- & " & $ +' " -* - + +, ('* $'+ ( 5+ + - *'( '+ $ $$ $ '&+-%' % +".' * 7 $ +' " !"$ & $ % & * ." $'+ +, '+ &" '+ -%($" ' ( 1 +.2 '.,!1$2 2$ 3$1,(- #$ 2$-3 1 4- $2 3(+. 04$ 2$&4(1: 3$-($-#. 5(&$-"( /.1 &$-$1 "(.-$2 - $+ 2/$"3. #$+ 5$234 1(. , 2"4+(-. ;23$ 2$ 5(. ,:2 (-%+4(#. /.1 +.2 <".-.2 #$ + - "($-3$ (-#4231( #$+ "(-$ 8 + 1(23."1 "( !1(3: -(" $2/$"( +,$-3$ $+ /1<-"(/$ #$ +$2 $+ %4 341. #4 1#. 2 2 231$1< 2 #$ ."$$ '/ 8 &, ,* , %4$1.- "./( # 2 $- " # 1(-">- #$+ ,4-#. '(+$ (-"+4(#. 2 /1./4$23 2 #$ $23 2 " 2 2 #$ ,.# $1 - 34$-#.2 2$-"(++.2 31 )$2 #$ " ++$ #$ 31$2 /($9 2 #$ ".13$2 2$+$"3.2 ".-%$""(.- # 2 $- 3$)(#.2 #$ " +(# # $704(2( 3 /$1. #(2"1$3.2 8 $+$& -3$2 + "*, - / (#$ #$+ + $ :% % & ".- " / "(# # #$ , -3$-$12$ 2< ,(2,. 8 24 % ,(+( ".- $23:-# 1$2 #$ 5(# +3.2 ,$#( -3$ $+ 31 ! ). 8 $+ ".-24,. %4$ 1:/(# ,$-3$ #(%4-#(# /.1 + 2."($# # 2< ".,. +.2 42.2 8 .%$13 / 1 $23$ -4$5. '.,!1$ ;23$ /.#< /$1,(3(12$ 4- (, &$- ".,. + #$ +.2 231.2 #$ .++86..# $ /.#1< #$"(1 04$ $- $23 ;/." #$+ * , "$ $+ '.,!1$ "'(+$-. 2(&4$ &4(:-#.2$ /.1 / 1: ,$31.2 $731 -)$1.2 ,$9"+ #.2 ".- $+ ".-2$15 #41(2,. +." + / 1 #$"(#(1 +. 04$ $2 "$/3 !+$ 42 1 $- $+ :,!(3. #$ + ,.# 8 +.2 ""$2.1(.2
- 4$-3$ % 2'(.-'(23.18 -$3
19
!# # " ! " !! $ " " ! " $ #$! $ " ( #! 1 # # $ $ # - !$! $ " " $ "# #$ - #! "% !" " " " " " $ $ # ! " "#$ ! " ' & " ! !! ! % " # !! ' #! # +'064#5 /7%*15 16415 241616+215 0#%+1 0#.'5 *#0 2'4&+&1 57 (+5101/?# 1 5' *#0 &'50#674#.+<#&1 )4#&7#./'06' # /'&+&# 37' #7/'06#$#0 .#5 %1/70+%#%+10'5 ; '. 70+8'45#.+5/1 &' .#5 %7.674#5 5' ':2#0 &?# '. ,+0'6' %*+.'01 *# %105'48#&1 575 2'4(+.'5 51%+#.'5 1/=5 #)1 2 37'..15 ,+0'6'5 ..'8#$#0 /#06# .#4)# &' #$4+)1 21.#+0#5 &' .#0# C'/2'<# $#0 4'%+>0 # 75#4.# &' %7'41 %746+&1 .15 4+%15 37' #06'5 5@.1 .#5 75#$#0 &' %7'41 %47&1 .15 #44+'415 /#7.+015C /10674#5 %10 )47'515 2'..10'5 &' %7'41 &' 18',# 1 %#$41 .15 /+5/15 '564+$15 &' /#&'4# &' *1; 2'41 6#/$+>0 16415 &' /'6#. #*14# &'5#2#4'%+&15 (#,# 6',+&# 51/$4'415 5' )A0 .# 4')+@0 &' 241%'&'0%+# ; %*#37'6# %146#!B" 1/=5 #)15 2 " !+ " % "# # $ " " ! # $ "# $ " " " " , " $ % + # + $ ( " $! " ! ! # * ) ! $ !" ' " ! # !! " ' $ " " $ " !+ " # + ! ! " " $ #! $ ! " $ "# ! " "+ ! $"# ! " ( " % " # # ! $! ' ! " #! " , $ " ! " $# # + " ! "$ " " " ! ! " ! " , $ # $
20
, $ "
" % % #$! $ " #! " $ " !$! " ' $! " ' # ! ! " $ - $ % "# # $ ( $"# ! $ $ " ! ' $ " ! " + # ! " ! " " " $ " #! " ! - $ " $ ! ! ! " ( " !$! " "# % "#$ ! " $ ! ! #$ ! $ " " # !# # #$ " $ " #$ # % "#$ ! $ " " "# $ # " " ! ! ! *" $ # !# #$! " " " !# " ! " $ $ #$! #+ $ ! ! " ' # " $ ! "# )" !! " ! " ' " ! # # ! # ! # # ! ( " $ " ' % ( $ ! $ #$! $" " ! $ $ " " $ ! "#! - $"# ! ! " # " $ " # ! $ # !! $ "#! $ #$! # ' " $ ! # # ( # $ " ! # ' ( % "#
4
USO DE ACCESORIOS EN EL MUNDO ACTUALMENTE
1 D D #+2'+ #+9=0 7'06' .11-$11- 07
$ ! " ! " $ % $ # ! ! " #
24#4 #%%'514+15 '0 8'< &' 2+'<#5 &' 8'5 67#4+1 /=5 %15615#5 4
*' ).1$#. %.16*+0) #%%'5514+'5 +0&7564; +5 9146* %.15' 61 $+..+10 #%%14&+0) 61 4'5'#4%* (41/ #%-#)'& #%65 74+0) 6*' '%101/+% 4'%'55+10 /#0; %1057/'45 126'& 61 $7; #%%'5514+'5 +056'#& 1( /14' ':2'05+8' +6'/5 1( %.16*+0) # +0&75 64+# ).1$#. &' .15 #%%'514+15 &' 8'567#4+1 8#.' %'4%# &' $+..10'5 &' #%7'4 &1 # 70 '567&+1 4'#.+<#&1 214 #%-#)'& #%65 74#06' .# 4'%'5+@0 '%10@/+%# /7%*15 %1057/+&14'5 126#410 214 %1/
. "#$ " ! " $ ! *"# #! " ) " # # $ " # $ " # " $ " $ " )" $" " "+ " $ ! " "#) % # !! # ! " #! # " $ " " ! " " "#) #! % $!" ! )! $ !" ' # $" " % "#$ ! $ ! ! " ! + ! " !% " ! " $ ! " $" " " " ! " ' ! $ # " / ! 0
4
$ # *662 999 4'2146.+0-'4 %1/
%+
.16*+0) %%'5514+'5 *6/.
21
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
22
+ &% # & * % $ %*+) $ ) % * ) *+ )+ % +& ',* *&$ ) &'+ &%* *3 &$& #&* &$ ) * * '&% % $2* 4$& &* &% # $& *+2% ) % & &' &% * $ %&* &%- % &% # * 0 $ ) * - % , ) *+2% $' 1 % & $',! ) # ,% * &' &% * $2* / +) $ * ) #&. +1 0 0 # ' ! ! + ! " % ! ! ! " !
5
USO DE ACCESORIOS EN CHILE
& & ( $ " ( ! ! + $ ! * " * ! ! ! $ ! ! " ! + ! ! ( ( & ! ! " ! * $ ! ! $ ! ! ! ! ! ! " ! ! * ! ! !$ ! ! ! !
)! ! ! $ ' & ! ! )! ! ! ! * + ! ! $ ! ! ! " ( ) ! + ! " " ! ! " - #! . ! $ " ! ( ! ! ) ! - ! " ! . ! ! " ! & "
' , %+ - *+ # ## #
23
" " " #%" &" & % &#"!& & " # %' & "! # % + # %&"! # % % "& & '% "! !' ! ! & ! '% !'" % ' %/&' & " " ( % , /& ## & *( " .* '" "!1 " "% "'% # %' ! ( &' & + &'( "& % " % & % "! & ( &'% ! $( + (! # %' #2 " & ( !" $( &(& % "! ( ' & "!&( " % "! & "! &( &# '" $( ( & ! & " # !& & " 0"& /! %" & ( !" !" % "!" $( "+ * &' (! !( )" " % $( ' #"%' ! ( " # %&"! + !" ' ! ) % 3 !, ( %& + $( % % ) %& !
&' !( )" " % & "!& % -& & !& $( !' & & 2! % ) 1 ! ( & ' " % "+ % ) &' ( ! ( ! !
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
&'" '" " " !' % "% & #( "! ( % $( # & % % (! # " %'
$ " % ' ) & )" 3 "&4 % " "
$ ( !' "('(
24
6
TIPOLOGÍA DE LOS ACCESORIOS
# & % $( ! !" & (' (! (+ # &"% "& &'" !" & ! $( !" * &' ! ! "'% & # %' & (! " " + (! % ! ) % $( % & % "!& % "% ' # % " $( * &' 1 & # % % "& &"% "& & 2! &( (! 1! #% " ! !'
& '() % $( % (- & &"! -& " !"& ! & % "& !'%" + ! #% & ! "& &"% "& & # !& $( * &' ! ' "%/ & $( ( # ! (! "! & -& (! !' & $( & "'% & & #"% " $( & % %"! "& & ( !' & # %' "& # % %(# % "& & %) "& $( #% &' ! "& " # !'"& (&( % "
25
$ $ " #! & &#' #&&#' ) "( ' ( " ' ) " ' ) #' 1) #' $ & ) ' $ ' "( # #' '# #! & '
! # )! "( # #' 2$( #' '(2" * ') - #"# ) & $&# ) (#& !3' ) 0 #"#' # '#' # ' " # & ' ( " ' ( & ' %) & ' & ( &#' && & #" &#'
* &#' " ' * " ' ( &
# "()&2" )'$ "'#& ' ' ' & #& ( ) ( #& #& ( # & ' 1) # # ' # " ' $#&( * '
26
% "
#, ' , ')( &0 " #' $) ' & ' # & ' # "( ' $& " #& ' 1# ( ' #& ( ' )! ( ' # #' $
+$ "' #" ' () ' & " '
7
TENDENCIAS
"(& ' ( " " ' %) !.' !$ (# ( " &." " !)" # * '() & # , " )! "( & #, , " )()&# ' &#" ) (&# %) $# &0 " ' & "( & ' "( ' #& & , 3 ( ! %) ' $ & ) & '( $&#, (# (0() # '(. ' &&# !.' +( "' ! "(
'( ( " " ')& #!# & '$) '( # - 2" , )! " 2" ' #'()! & ' , $ (& !#" # # ' ( "(# ( " ' #!# " ( " ' # %) )' " #' ) (#& ' '( ( " " ' $& ' &* & (/ " ' ! ( & ' , )'#' !)" # " )! "( & (& #" $ & $&#!#* & #' " '# () #" " * ( & ') ' $ & 2"
" & 2" ( "# # 0 * - !.' $ %) 1 , #!$ $ &! ( # "(& #(& ' #' ' " #&$#& & ' "'#& ' &#$ '(#' ( +( ' " ( "( ' ' #" ( " #" $ #" ' '$ ' $ & ) & %) ! "( " " )') & # " #&! # '# & ') & " ! "(# ( !$ & ()& #&$#& & (!# & 0 # , ( * $) !#" & $ &# $&#"(# '( ' ()& ' ' $# &0 " +( " & #(& ' .& ' #!# ( * & & # ' '( ! & ) (#& # #& #& '(. $& " $ ! "( " # " ( ( ' , $#&( '( ' (# & " ! "(# $ &# #&(# $ -# ' +( " &." #!3" $# 2"
27
$ $'* " &, -+' $ "%(* +"7& 1 $3+ * ( * - $)-" * '+ )- $ "& -+,*" + $ ' -** +,3 ,'% & ' . 2 %3+ - *2 1 1 &' +'$ % &, + ($" ( * (" 2 + 0( *"% & , $ + % +" ' * %3," + ( * + * . +," + 1 $5& + '%($ , + . +,- *"' ,* # + 6' 2 ( ,'+ 1 +'*"'+ "& $-+' % )-"$$ # "+('&" $ + ( * $ -+- *"' "&, * + ' , &'$' 5 $ + "%(* +'* + $ ,*'$''% ( * %", "& $-+' * $"2 * (* & + % " 0 $- +". $ $" &,
+ $ 8+)- % , *" $ + (*' - ,'+ "+ 6'+ 1 +,"$'+ ." )- + & * +( ,-'+'+ '& $ % "' % " &, 1 $ % "' +' " $ + $ (*' +' "+ 6' ! +, +- 9%- *, : & ,-* $ '%' * "7& $ 9 +, +!"'&: ' + $ (*' - "7& $ * , "$ * & + $ '& % , *" $ + (' ' '$7 " '+ 1 '& (' ' * +( ,' ('* $ " & +, * $ % &' ' * 1 $ % " &, $ %'."%" &,' +$'/ +!"'& &,* (*' - ,'+ $, $" ! !'+ & $5& + (*' - "7& ( )- 6 + 1 + $ * "'& $ '& '& " "'& + $ '* $ + #-+, + *'('& -& % "' ( * " % #-+, & ' $'+ *",%'+ ." 1 '& +-%' $' )- $ " ** + ( 2 % & # *
28
8
PROFUNDIZANDO EL SLOW FASHION
& , $" '%' -& (4& " $ %'+' %'."%" &,' '&,* -$,-* (*'(- +,' & (*"% * $- * ('* -& *-(' ! + ", $" &'+ $" * '+ ('* *$' ,*"&" & $ 4 $'+ ; $ 9+$'/ '' : - * &- & " '(, * $ %' $' (*' - "7& $ * ( * $' * * %3+ " " & " 1 & & " + 1 +- * "."& " "7& $ ' "& - ' $ &,' * ( * -,"7 $- ' & ',*'+ +( ,'+ $ +' " " )- $ %' $' ." ,- $ ! 5 + *" " ' $ $" $ ." '," " & 1 $ '+,-% * + %3+ ( -+ + +, & 0,"& -"4& '+ (*'.' *'& $ ( *" "7& ,' -& 9 -$,-* $ &, : ' 9+$'/ %'. % &,: '&23$ 2 (
+ (* & + * + #' $ %' $' $ +,3& ( &+ + ( * + * . +," + ('* -& ( *5' ' 0, & " ' & $ ," %(' * +,' + ! & '& (*' +'+ (*' - "7& 1 % , *" $ + -* $ + ( *' , % "4& '&+" * & ' & +- * "7& )- &' + #-+, & -& , & & " ( + # * $ %' +, %' ' + ('+" $ . +,"*$ ,* .4+ $ + "+ ,"&, + , %('* +"& )- + . ' +'$ ,' + , % "4& "%('*, &, * $ * )- + -+ )- $ -+- *"' * -& .5& -$' ( *+'& $ '& $ (* & % " &, $ % "' % &, $" )- . $'* $ '*" & 4+, 1 $' ! + &,"* + ('*, & ' -& %-& ' % #'*
&,* * $'+ ,* # '* + '& " "'& + $ '* $ + " & + $- * ,* #' 7%' ' 1 +( "' +- " " &, )-"( %" &,' - ' !'* *"'+ $ 5,"%'+ 1 ( *$ + - % &, ('* +- $ '* .", & ' * , * '+,'+ (*' - "7& '+, +-1 $ '% * "' #-+,' -+ - *"* $ + & +" + ,' '+ $'+ "&.'$- * '+ & $ & $ (*' - ,' "+ 6 '* (*' - ,'* "+,*" -" '* 1 "& $% &, -+- *"'
'& $ "& .", * )- $ (* & + *3(" % &, + ! + ,* # & % , *" $ + $" 1 '& %4,' '+ )- .'* 2 & +- -* "$" 1 -& - & 9. # 2: %' ' )- (- -+ *+ -* &, 6'+ "& $-+' + ! * $ ',* & * "7& %3+ + -+ * * -& .5& -$' %' "'& $ '& $ -+- *"' %' ' )- $ (* & )-" * +-+ '#'+ 8& %3+ . $'*
29
" " ! "
%
% &
& $ # & $ $ & !
" & & " # #
$
% &
! &
' "
" ! &
& " & #
# "
$
#
' # & # & % ' !
30
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
31
9
MARCAS SLOW FASHION LOCALES
% $ % ! % #' %'% $ !% "$ " !% !) % ! + $ & !% ' " %! "! % &! (/ + ' % & ( % #' '% $ '& , $ & $ % % ! ! &$ $& % & #' % ! % $ !) % ! $ ! %&!% $ ' & & % ' $ %&! ! ( "$! ' &! %' ! % '$ %' %'" $( ( & "! ! %' %&.& %&-
' $& & & ! &! ! #' &!$" %' &$ % %& % $ % $- &$ $ "2 ! #' '% "$! ' &!% + "$ % & "!$ % $ ! + " !% !& % $ % ! % #' % ! $ ! ! $ !% % " &!% ( !( &! !) % ! !$ ! $ $ ' !%
$ ! ! $ ! % 0 !$
$ $/ % & *& % $ + !$ $& ! '% " , % %! "$! ' % " ! ! $ ! '%&! ! ! ! % % + % $ !% ' !% " $ %' ! ! $ $!"! ( %&' $ ! / % "'$ % + %& % ! ' %&.& & "!$ + %! $ " $ & " $ % $ '% " & % & "!$ % !
% 0 !$ ( %&' $ ! + $& %& ! #' & $ % " , % "$ % ( %& $ + $ % & % !% & *& % $ ( %&' $ ! ! ' & ( & *&'$ !% ! $ % " $ & !% $!% %' "$! ' 1 + $ %' $ ! !% "$ " !% ! $ ! '%&!
32
& $ !+ $/ ! & "!$- ! ' + % " , % ! ' $& $& % / ! + % 0! ! & "!$- ! $ ! !+ $/ #' $ % & $- & $ & & $ ! ! + %'% & $ % ' !+ $/ %&- ! " & & ! $ ! ' - ! ! ' ! &$ !$ + & $
" $ %#$" "* " ' # % # $ #$ $ " #$ " $ $ & ( !% " #+ $ # # # . $ / " " ) " # " $ !% " % " % $ " ( $ ( "+ #$ # " % $ # # " # " " # " # $ # !% # $" & " & " " ) $" # " $ & # !% ( "+ # & # " !% " " $ # $ # " " & "# " " # $" "$ # # # , " # #$ # $ - ) "
'$ &
&' !
' / ,
33
34
INVESTIGACIÓN
35
36
X 1
INVESTIGACIÃ&#x201C;N DE USUARIO*
" & %) % + ' % ! % #"& & %%" % (! /! &"% "& & ( !"& # % #2 " !"
' % ! % $( .! (& %/ "& &"% "& ' % ! % 1 " ' % ! % (-! " 3 (- & % ! " !'%" % "
%
$ !
& %) % & ' #" " / & &' " & ( ! & 0"& & !' ! " & 2! + &'% '" &"
#
"
% & ! (& ! &"% "& #" #% ! & (' , & !'" &" &' "
" % & 1) ! & & '"% &" " "!1 " " " '" ! &( #% % . '% " #%" & "!
- % "'" %- + !"' &
% ) % "& % &( ' "& ! ) ( & '" " " / % %& ! *"
37
"' /05? 6/# %-#3# 5'/&'/%+# *#%+# %#33'3#4 "0$3' '- #33')-#34' 9 '- 640 &' #%%'403+04 *6.#/+45#4 &'- ;3'# %3'#5+7# '/ -04 *0.$3'4 '/04 '4 .;4 .;4 '4 '/ -# #%'1%+?/ 1' 26' 65+-+:#$#/ .;4 #%%'403+04 903#5+7# &' -# 1#-#$3# 0 .;4 #%'15#&0 40/ -04 3'-0,'4 %03$#5#4 %+/5630/'4 9 $6(#/&#4 '/ #4+ 50&04 -04 1#35+%+1#/5'4 #(+3.#30/ '45# <10%# 6'/5#/ '- %'-6-#3 9 -04 .#3%04 &' 0$5'/'3 46 7'456#3+0 &' (6'/5'4 #-5'3/#5+7#4 #- -04 #/5'0,04 %0.0 #%%'403+0 3'5#+- 5+'/&#4 +/&'1'/&+'/5'4 ('3+#4 9 #.'3+ %#/#4 1;)+/#4 &' /5'3/'5 #&'.;4 &' '45' "' /05? 6/# &+40/#/%+# '/53' -0 26' '- 1#35+%+1#/5' ,07'/ &'%-#3# 1#3# &04 %04#4 &+4 # %0.0&+&#& '4 '- 13+/%+1#- (#%503 26' &' 5+/5#4 103 6/ -#&0 &+%' '45#3 &' #%6'3&0 %0/ %-#3#30/ 64#3 #- %0.13#3 9 '-')+3 -# 5'/+&# &'- 26' '- *0.$3' 4' #33')-' 9 #&03/' 9 103 '- 0530 &=# 4')6+&0 5=.+&#.'/5' 103 '- 7'34' $+'/ 4' #13'%+# 6/# %-#3# 5'/&'/%+# # -# 4'/%+--': '/ '- 7'45+3 -+.+5;/&04' # -04 #%%'403+04 $;4+%04
(
% #$ '
0/0%'3 -# 01+/+?/ &' -04 1#35+%+1#/5'4 3'41'% 50 # .0&# .#4%6-+/#
! $ " !
#
#>04
" $ "'#$ #
'45; 0 %0.1-'5? -# '&6%#%+?/ 461'3+03 9 &' '--04 6/ '45; 3'#-+:#/&0 '456&+04 104 5'3+03'4
#3# '-')+3 -# 301# 9 #%%'403+04 #@/ '/ '- / -04 *0.$3'4 26' &+%'/ '45#3 +/5'3'4#&04 1@$-+%0 +/5'3'4#&0 '/ -# .0&# 4+)6' 4+'/&0 '/ -# .0&# 4' /05# 6/# .#903 #1'3563# # #% 13'&0.+/#/5' '- #41'%50 &' -# (6/%+0/#-+&#& %'403+04 &' 30- %0.6/+%#%+0/#- '45<5+%0 40. $3'304 9 $+465'3=# '/ %0/53#104+%+?/ # -04 26' 04 *0.$3'4 40/ %#1#%'4 &' 3'%0/0%'3 '- #4 &+%'/ /0 )645#3 &' -# .0&# %69# '-'%%+?/ &' 1'%50 %0.6/+%#%+0/#- &'- 7'45+3 9 &' 7#-03#3-0 #%%'403+04 4' %0/%'/53# '/ -04 53#&+%+0/#-'4 # -# *03# &' '-')+3 464 13'/&#4 65+-+5#3+04 %03$#5# %+/563?/ $6(#/&#
38
( " $ #
45# +/7'45+)#%+?/ 26+'3' 4'3 6/# 130(6/&+:# %+?/ 40$3' -# 1'3%'1%+?/ &' -# )'/5' 3'41'%50 # -04 #%%'403+04 9 '- 640 26' 4' -'4 &# &'/530 &' *+-'
$ &!
'5'3.+/#3 26< '45#3=# &+416'450 # 64#3 '- *0.$3' %*+-'/0 &'- .'3%#&0 505#- &' -04 #%%' 403+04 '4%6$3+3 4+ '8+45' #-)@/ 7#%=0 '/ '- .'3%#&0 -0%#- 26' 10&3=#/ 4'3 3'46'-504 &'4&' '- .'3%# &0 )-0$#- !'%01+-#3 01+/+0/'4 9 ,6+%+04 &' 7#-03 3'41'%50 # -04 &+45+/504 #%%'403+04 9 46 640
" % $ #
# A 6;-'4 &' '/53' -#4 01%+0/'4 64#4 %0.@/ .'/5' $ A 6;-'4 /0 64#3=#4 1#3# /#&# % A 6;-'4 %0/4+&'3#4 26' *#9 1'30 (#-5# +//0 7#3 & A 6;-'4 5' )645#3=# 26' *6$+'3# .;4 '/ *+ -'
" $ #
03$#5#
-+1 &' %03$#5# #>6'-0
6.+5# +/ 6(#/&# #>6'-0 &' $0-4+--0 +/563?/ "641'/403'4 0--#3 6#/5'4 #-%'5+/'4 0--'3#4 0330 "0.$3'30 #3%0 &' #/5'0,0 ?15+%0 6-4'3# !'-0, &' 16-4'3# +--'5'3#
0-40
/+--0
0-=)3#(0
#3#)6#4
/5'0,04 &' 40-
0 *#9 40313'4#4 3'41'%50 # -04 #%%'403+04 .;4 64#&04 40/ -04 53#&+%+0/#-'4 %+/5630/'4 #9 6/# 010356/+&#& '/ -0 26' 3'41'%5# # -04 $0-404 '8+45' 6/ +/5'3<4 103 '--04 9 /6'7#4 0('35#4 '/ '- 1@$-+%0 &' -# '/%6'45# "' &'%-#3# 6/# 5'/&'/%+# *#%+# -# 40$3+'&#& #/5'4 26' '- '8%'40 &' #&03/0 13'(+3+'/&0 &' 5#--'4 &+4%3'504
39
% $ $
" # ' # $ ( ! # " ! " ' ! " ) * % ! $
" " ! # !" ! #
# % # !
! ! ' ! ! ! ( $ # # " ! # # ! & ! ! $ "# ! " ! ) " *
40
2X ANÁLISIS DE LOS RESULTADOS
' ! ' # &
' ! ' ' ( # '
% # ! ) * # ! "
41
%# # , " +# "$ " % " " , # # !% # $ $" # - $ # $" #$ # !% ( " !% # $" & # " / " # # ( # & % " "# "# $ " ,#$ " # " # % $ "" " # ) !% # # % $ $ # % " % # "". * !% " # " " % " # $ "+ " # " # % # " " " " !% #%# " "+ $ # - # # " " $ % $" $ % $ # % # # ) ( # " . $" # . $" # '% %# . # # $ " +$ " " % # " #$ / !% # " % #% #$ "$ " ( $ " % " & ) # " $" $ # $ +# "% $%" #$ # " # % %# " $ $ # # " # % " #- & " # $ # " % $ # ( % $ " !% " # % #% % $ "
42
(
)+ # " #$ !% # $ . " %"" " % # # " # "+ $ # !% # # $ $ & # " / # % ( !% %" $ & #$ . # $" " # " % " $ # "% " " # # " # $ " # #$ # # # # "$ % $ # $ " # " # #$ # # " % % # "$ " $ " " # % +# ( % " % #$ #$ " ( & % " #$ # " " " # #% & & , " $" " % #$ #$,$ # !% " " $ " " !% # ( %# # ) $ # % " ) " " # $ # " $ " " ' !% # ( %$ ) $- $. % "$ $ $ " # $ # % " - +# #$ # # "+ " # " . #$,$ # " % $ # #$ " ( $
ANTECEDENTES Y REFERENTES
43
44
3x REFERENTES
" ( # #! ! " #!" & " ! ! ) ! % # ! # !" ! & " ! # " '" ! " ! "
( & !" & " #!" ! ) !" !# " " ! ! ! # " # #" & " " $ & # & # !" # "# # # # " # ! !" & " ! # ! " ' !" ! & " ! ! #!# # ' !
!"# " ! # * ! ) ! % " ! ! " ! " # # $ % "( # ! ! " # ) ! % " !
45
'() # !# %) ' 0 # #" ' $ & !) & )' $&# ) & $& " ' ),# $&# '# ' 0# #" 1" & )&#' , 1" ! ( & ' " ()& ' ' " )" & & "( !# " #" # & " # )" ( &" ( * & ( ) $&#$) '( !) '(& )" '(.( ! " ! '( , +$ & ! "( #" *# 2! " ' , ' ) ( ' ( !$#& '
46
4x ANTECEDENTES
/" ! ( " ' , !#&& ' ' 0 #' , $&# ) #' $#& ' 0 #& "# " " # " )" $&# '# '# )( ! "( &( ' " (& " # ! ( & ' # ' '#'( " ' , & '$ ()#'#' #" ! # ! "( & ') ( " # )" $&# ) (# " ! "( ( &! " # && "( # '( )'# ) &# & " &#'#& # "# " & # , # & "1 # + " &( ' "/
& '() # # #" 1" # (#' )'# #( "# & ' ( " # ! ( & ' &( ! ") ()& ! & ' , ) &# ( - " $&# '#' & '( )& 1" , "' ! # ! ") ' $ & $&# ) & "(& #(& ' #' ' ( & ' #& ' $ & ( * &#' , "( # #' #! " " # #" " "(# ) &# , ! &
& $&# ) (#' ) &# )" " #' " ' %) $&# ) '#& #' ! &&# %) " &/ , 2( ' $#" " # '$ ) # " )" $&# '# $&# ) 1" ! ") ), '(#& ' !$& " #" )') & # $)" ( & & " ')' ! '! ' $ & ' # (#' %) ' " & ' )( - & , ! & & ' ! $ ' "( ' )" #" ' )& ' #'
47
48
FORMULACIÓN DEL PROYECTO
49
50
1x FORMULACIÃ&#x201C;N DEL PROYECTO
! ( ) & & ! & ! $ ! $ %
1
" ! ! # " & !
2
! $ % # ! ! # !
' # ! &
& & !
51
25 a 45 aĂąos
# $ %# , $ "& &$ & $% ' $ & *$ $ ! *$ % *$ $%* # $ $ & # % ' % $ ! # "& $ % # & ! &$ & # - %# $ $% "& $ ' ' # #*! $%* $ % $ ! % # & & #% $& - ' $% # & ! # ) ! % $ $ & ( #% $ & # %# "& % & ' $ , $ ' ' # %#
$+ &$ % #$ & $% ' *$ # ( $ % "& $ (& $ % #$ *$ ! $
52
# % $ # ) ! # "& ! ' % %- ! # - $% #&! ! #$ $ "& # % % & $%# $
! " ! !# # " & " ! " ! " " ! ! ! !#! ! '
& ) ) & !#!" " !"( # % !" # $ ! # ! " ! " ! " # !"( !# $ ! " ! ! ! ! # " !#! # ! & # ! ! " ! # !
$%& ! $ !# # - % ' $ "& !# & ' # $! % % %# & !. & % ' ( ! #% - ' % $ # $ & % $ $&$% % $ !" # ( #!" (
53
'
" ! & ! # ! # (# (# ! ! # $ $ &#* " .)2# "( # ( )& ' #" ' " $&# ! "( " $ &( ! "(# !"# & " # #' # #' ! !/( #' & -3 ) 3" ')$ & #& #!$ ( ) 3 )" * &' ' $& '( # " && & ' &/ ( & )! " '( # ' !$# & ( *#
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
54
" "* &( & " )" $& " %) $ & ') $& # , $&# " #" ' # ' #" ' )'# , # & " %) ( " &/ #" & '(# ') &#$ $& & * #& ' $& " ' " ( ) ' , # ' ! "# ( " )" )'(# ! " '(# $#& ! "(#' * "( $) ' & * ( & "# )' $&# ) (#' , & ( ' ( &" ( * ' * " ' ) #& /" ' " ')' " ' ' ! " , ( & ' & ) "( && # ( '( && ' &( ' &%) #& '( "# && # * '( ) #& " - & )" #" ' " '
! ( " )" #" $ 3" !$ , # 1'( ' $ & () ! - & " ' (& #" ' , $#$) & ' & 3" (3 #" #&& "( ' !1'( ' #& "( ' , '( #' * ( &" ( *#' & 0 ' '( "( ' ! " '( #" ' & # ' ' ( " " )" && & )' &#' #'# 1 , "(&#$# # 1 ( +(#' '# & # # 1 " ! # " ' &# &# ( &" ( *# , !4' " ! # " $ " !# # )"#' $ 1' ' ) !0& # !0& "(& " ') # ' " # )* "() ( !$& " ' $#' %) , # ) '( ' /( # #!# !# &# (& #&
55
4
!
/ + #% # " # $ " # # % # # " # "" !% "- $" " % # % " # " # & $ ' #
!
"!% " # $ # # # # # # % " # & $ # #% ,$ $," # " % 0 # $ &
!
3
" " # " % # $ # # # " " 0 # % " " % $ # # . !% " # #%# # ) ( $ $ & # % " % $ %" %) %# # % " ) $ " $ ) % # % " " % * $ &
"
" " % " % #$ # " # !% # $ # " " 0 # % " $ # " !% " $ # " # % $ " # #%#$ $ " % $ # $ % #$ & $ # " # # # ' #
$ " # / # #$,$ # %#% " " " $ " " $ " # # " # $ "+ # " " " # # #%#$ $ # + $ "" !% "-
56
2x EL PRODUCTO
#$ " % $ #$+ " $ # $ ) %" " #% # . # # " " * # %) "$ " %* " # % # $ - # " $ # ) # !% # % # " " $ % " !% # % $ # " + $ " " % ) " " & $ $ " # $ " # # "+ # $ % # ) " # #$ $ # " # %" " % ) " & " % $
#$,$ # " % $ # #$+ # # "& / # " # !% #$ $ " ) %$ * # $ # * $ # ) # $ # & $ - # ,$" # # # $ " # # %$ $ " $ # # " %" " " , # " # " $ # ) %" # # $ # #% " % #
# # " # ' # "$" ) " % / !% . # $ " # / # ) %" # #% "+ $ " 1 $ 2 # " "+ ) $ " * "+ # # $ #
%" $ * / $ " # #%#$ $ # " $ "$ # "$ / " % $ " # # "$ $
" " / " % $ " $ " ) "$ # & " " # " $ " " # " / ) " % / !% , !%, # & / " $ " " / ) ($ # / & 0$
57
! $ # $% % $ ! $ ! # / ! # & $ / #&! # $ # % $ . $ $ 0 $&$ # % #.$% $ & $ * ' # $ & )%# "& $& $%#& %&# $ $ #, !# ! % # % #.$% & !# # % ! $ ! % # + # & / "& $%- $ $%&# $ ## "& #. "& $ "& $ #, !# % % ! ! # $% !# * % %.%&
"& $ $ ## / $% !# * % $ # # "& $% % # ' * # % "& $ $ #. ! # - $ !# % % ! $ !# $ % $ $% % !# $ % % $ $ # % #.$% $ % # $ %- $ / $ "& $ & $ # % ! ! # %# # $ !# & & $ $& / !# % % ! $ $ &$ / !# # $&$ ! $ %- $ * % $% # !% / $& $%-% % # . % ! !# $ %.%& ! #% !0 &$& #
$ $% !# & / $ ! + $ / $% - $ , % ( $ $ # + #, # #% $ &% + %- $ %# $ ## "& #. !# # & # $ % / % % $ ) & $ * - $ ' #$ . $ $ # $& $
58
$ / # &## # *& $%# ## "& # & ' $ - $ &$ / $ ) #% $ . ! # $& . $ $ * % $ & # $ $ # !# $ !# & / ! # & $ / #! # # % $ # & #+ $ $ !& % $ * # % $ /
! $ # $% % $ ! $ ! # / ! # & $ / #&! # $ # % $ . $ $ 0 $&$ # % #.$% $ & $ * ' # $ & )%# "& $& $%#& %&# $ $ #, !# ! % # % #.$% & !# # % ! $ ! % # + # & / "& $%- $ $%&# $ ## "& #. "& $ "& $ #, !# % % ! ! # $% !# * % %.%&
"& $ $ ## / $% !# * % $ # # "& $% % # ' * # % "& $ $ #. ! # - $ !# % % ! $ !# $ % $ $% % !# $ % % $ $ # % #.$% $ % # $ %- $ / $ "& $ & $ # % ! ! # %# # $ !# & & $ $& / !# % % ! $ $ &$ / !# # $&$ ! $ %- $ * % $% # !% / $& $%-% % # . % ! !# $ %.%& ! #% !0 &$& #
$ $% !# & / $ ! + $ / $% - $ , % ( $ $ # + #, # #% $ &% + %- $ %# $ ## "& #. !# # & # $ % / % % $ ) & $ * - $ ' #$ . $ $ # $& $
$ / # &## # *& $%# ## "& # & ' $ - $ &$ / $ ) #% $ . ! # $& . $ $ * % $ & # $ $ # !# $ !# & / ! # & $ / #! # # % $ # & #+ $ $ !& % $ * # % $ /
58
59
# $ & % $ &$& # "& &$% $ $ $ $ $ / $ $ # *0 & & $% $ # "&- ' $ # $ $& % #0 & &$ 1 % $ $ $ % $ $ $ # $ & # $ & % $ $ #%! ! ,! $ . # $ ' $ ! # ' % $ % % $ ## $ ) # # $ 0 "& $ % # $ ) # % / . % # ! ! # $ ! #% # ! $ ) $ $ $ $ & % 2 ) & ! $ !# ( $ & $ ! % 0 # * # & %# & % !# & 0 ) $ / + ## 0 $ $ ! # # $ ,$ # * $ %- % ) $& # $ $ # $ $ # $ # $ $ # $ ) % # ! # ' # $ ! * $ !# ) %
60
! % 0 $ . # * # % $ $ ! * $ !# & % %# ! $ % $ $ ! # !# ' # $&! # & # # ,$ %
) #. $ $ $ & #! !# ! $ ! * $ $ !& # & $ ! * %&# * ## & # $ ! * $ & # ! $ !# ' # % $& $&! # ! # $ / ! % $ $ % # &$ $%
!# # & # $ &$ * # $ ! * $ %# & # "& $ !# ' # $& $&! # * ) $ #% $ ! % $ $ # '
* !& *0 $ # $ ! & $ ! * $ & $ ! $ # $ $%&# $ $ !& % $ * # $ ## $ & # # ! $ ## % $ % & # $%# "& $ / $% %# $ & # $ ! # $ $%&# $ $ # $ !& % $ ! # $ $%&# $ ) & * $ ! # # & % # $ $ ! * $ & # ! # "& $ !# ' "& $ $ # $ #
# $ ! * $ $% 0 $ # * #, ## % $ %# $ $ # * $ $ & $ ) !# $ $ # ! # # * 0 $ !# % % ! $ $ 0 & # $ $ $ "& $ ! & ! # !# & # + # * % %# #% # ) # $ ! * $ ) & % # # * !# $ $ & $%&# # "& &% * & ,"& $ # # % &$%# ,$ $ %-# $ $%&# & #
61
#% % ( + (/% ) ( " / (1$ %)*+( ) $ "%) ( # * ) &+$*%) )*( *2 %) &%( ! # &"% "%) -*( #%) " ) %)*+( ) + (&% . %") ""%) '+ "% # ( * $ )*% .+ +$ ( " + (/ '+ " & )% )% ( " ) %)*+( ) ) %)*+( ) ) ( # * $ ,%", $ %) %) &+$* ) . ) #+" $ % " %
$ " / $ % "%) &(%*%* &%) $ +)% ) % ) (,5 '+ " * (# $ 5$ '+ ) 3 &" $* % ! (" $ " , * + (% (+ % '+ /1) $% + ) " 5&* # & ( ) +( ( " +( " " &(% + *% $ , )* )*% ) 5 *%# ( # ) & ( ( %(/ ( "%) #% "%) ) %(( ) ) $ ) ( % " & + (% %) %
% " ) )% ( )3 # )# ) & ( &(%&%( %$ ( " ( ) )* $ + . , * ( '+ " + (% ) ((+ + . %) %( ) ) $ "" , ( +$ % " ""% & )&+$* % & ( , * ( '+ " # * ( " . ) ((+ $ )+ ( )+"* % )*2* % % +$ %$ "
#% % &(+ &%( %$) !% %$ + $ ) +* " /5 +$ ( # $ , / %)*+( $ +$% "%) &(%*%* &%) (% ) ) (*5 & ( +*+ (%) #% "%) &( $ & "# $* &%( )+ &% +$ 5$ )*2* %$ " ( )*% " "3$ . " %& 5$ +* " / ( ( +()%) %#% %)*+( ) #1) %( ) "% &" $* % %( $ "# $*
%$ " $ $*( ( +$ ( )+"* % " )+& ( %( ) ( )& * ( " ( *#% *( !% " (* ) $% #% % '+ &+ () * #&% & ( &%$ ( " * $ 5$ * "" " %$ 5$ . +.% &(% + *% ) +$ % ! *% '+ ( "# $* " .+ ) $* () ( " / % $ )+ *( !% ) &%( ""% '+ ) )* # '+ " ) & / ) #1) %#&" ! ) ) ( " #% " . " %")% &+ $ ( '+ ( ( %( ) & ( )+ %#&" * " %( 5$ &" $ '+ "%) &(% + *%) " %" 5$ ) %$ %$ $ # '+ ) ( " $ "%)
62
& %) %$ " $ $% * $ ( +$ '+ "# $ ( % '+ %$ + $ * $ " %)*+# ( + ( ( $ )+ * "" ( "%) &(% + *%) '+ %$ %$ $ %(# (1 &(%& # $* "%) * #&%) )& ( $ "%) # %) +) 5$ " # (
" # * ( " '+ $ *+( "# $* )+( 5 %#% " " & ( ( " / ( " %" 5$ ) " + (% " + (% " % ( )&%$ ( "%) & (1# *(%) " . %( $ %"5 % '+ %(( )&%$ $ +$ &(%. *% '+ ) " ( () ( +$ "%) ( % 1) % " + (% . " &(% )% +(* # ( ( () " $ -% $ &+ &" $* () '+ +$ &(%. *% $% ) % +& ( # * ( ) $ # " ) )% ( *% % " + (% +. +(* # ( $,%"+ ( +$ $%(# )*% + . " +)% '+3# %) $% ,%) & ( " # % # $* $ # ( % 2)* $% +) ) ( +$ &(%. *% , $% %( %*( & (* - )* $ &(% )%) +(* % "* ($ * ,%) " $ +)*( " " #1) +* " / % *+ "# $* $% ""%) . " " % & ( ! +* ( )* &(%. *% ) " +(* % $%# $ % 0)* ) ( " / +* " / $ % * $ $%) '+3# %) +(* %( ) % * $ %) " ) # ( ) %(* / ) (+* ) , $ ) . %! ) )* $ *%) 1( %" ) &+$*+ " / ( '+ " + (% +(* % , * " 7 $, ! 8 %) +( $ % %$ " * #&% (% . +)% " &(% )% +(* % , * " ( '+ ( #1) * #&% '+ "%) %*(%) #2*% %) ) & " ) . " #& ) & "% &+ $ "" ( & ) ( ) ) # $ ) )* # ) ) $ $%'+ ) %)%) ) *1* %) )+# ( ) $ +$ )%"+ 5$ " ) )+)* $ ) +(* $* ) %( $ , * " # ( )* 4% '+ ( $ % % (% " %(* / % & $% % # $ " "" (% " %! ) )+# , $ ) * ( % * + )*% %#& ( % %$ " &(% )% $ +)*( " +.% &(% )% &+ "" ( $ ) * ( # $%) +$ 3 ) " ( # $* # $%) $* $ *2(# $%) * #&%
) "+ % )* &(% )% " ) ( #1) " ( % . ( '+ ( ( * $ $%) % * $ %) &" $* ) $ ( " &(% + *% $ " (% " ) , $* ! ) " ( )+"* % )* &(% )% )%$ #+ ) %#% &%( ! #&"% +$ + (% '+ * $ +$ (#%) , ! / " &(% + 5$ +$ ( # %"% ( ) $ *+( " ) . 1" %) . +$ + (% %$ +$ ( $ , "%( *( %$ " %$ " $ *( ! ( +$ # * ( " '+ &% ) (* %) )+)* $* " # $* " . )% " ) ) (*5 " &%) " +* " / ( + (% &(% + % $ $* % )* ) 5$ ) *%#5 "+ % %$)+"* ( %$ ) " ( $ . %$ (# ( " ) )%)& ) '+ $% - )* * " # * ( " $ " # ( % "% " &(5- #% #1) ( %$% 5 '+ " + (% &(% + % $ " ( 5$ 6$ " '+ ) *( * % %$ +(* $* ) , * " ) #1) )+)* $* " ) ) -*( 3 % %$ ( $ )+ ( # $*% " $ # " &%( * # ) ( $ ) *2 $ ) " $ +)*( "% " %( ""% ) 5 +* " / ( + (% &(% + % $ +$ +(* # ( * "'+ $ +(* # ( " '+ &(% + + (%) & ( * " (* (3 %$ #+ -& ( $ $ " (+ (%
$ " / $ % " ) &( )* %$ ) . - $ ) *2 $ ) '+ ) $ )%&%(* ( "%) #% "%) ) 5 +* " / ( %) , ( ) + (% '+ ) %#&" # $* ( $ & ( %*%( ( " - " % ( / . (# / $ " ) & (* ) '+ %(( )&%$ %) + (%) )& 3 %) '+ ) +* " / (1$ & ( " %$ 5$ "%) &(% + *%) $ )* * & " &(%. *% )%$ %) " '+ ) "" # % $ " # ( % . " &( # (% ) +$ # * ( " " % &%( )+ ( " * , " )* ( )& *% )+ (%)%( "% '+ & (# * (1 (# ( " )*(+ *+ ( ) $ )*( ) ( " # * ( " " (%)%( " $ & , (3 $*( "%) . # "3# *(%) "% '+ "%
63
! % ! " %"&"% !' % " % &(# % "% ( &'% (! ' *'(% & $( !" ' "& #"%"& + (! % " "# " !'% & $( % ) %&" #"& (! " ' % "# " + &( ) & (! " & (! ( %" $( #"& -& % , + %"&"% !'% + / '%"& #"% " $( & # , #%"#"% "! % &'%( '( % &' & #%" ( '" (%' " ) ' "& &"! "% ! ) (!" " ! %-! "& # % ( % % "& & # '"& ! & % "& (% + &'%( '(% ! "& " "& " 0! "% # " ! & # , & $( '1 ! " " (! ( & (' , %- ! # + & & & $( &
64
! & ' ! % & & (' , %- &( ' &# '" # ' " "% & 0 (' , % '"!"& . &" % "& + $( )" % ! ( %" !) " -& & ! " ( %" (%' " ) ' &( " "% & & % &'% ! '"!"& ! '(% & ( %" + & % & ! & " ' & "# "! & % "& % & 0 ! " !" ! % " %%"$( ! %/ " "% % ! $( % (! "!'% &' "! '"!" "& (%" ( %" "! ! % &' % '% " "&'(% &
/! #% % /! & %%" % &'- & ! '% " "& '(% & + & # , ! &'.' + #%" &" #%" ( 0!
#1
!& "! & * * & # -* '%"& & % # 0! " "! # ! & %/ "& + ' # &( ' ( ' % ! # %% #"% ' % & "%% & (&' &
65
#2
!
66
#3
!
67
#5
!
68
#7
!
69
x3
DESARROLLO DE LA MARCA & ' &&# # ! & ' & * ' &#" #' #" $(#' , ' "' #" ' ' %) ' ' & ! ( & #" $&# ) (# "(& ' $& !#& ' " - ' & 2" '# - , )&
& &#" #(& ' #$ #" ' #!# $#& !$ # )' & "#! & ' #! & %) & ! ( & " $ ' # " #"' & 2" &. ( & (& # &( ' " (& #" %) ( " " #' $&# ) (#' "(& #' $# &0 " & ' # #' "#! & ' #' &( ' "#' #' %) ' & )&& &0 $ & * & # $&#, (# ( " ' # ' & # / (#& &(# #! #
& ! & ' & ' 2" " )" ' &
" ! "( ' 2 %) " ! " %) ! #& - #" '$0& () $&#, (# ' )' 5 & !#6 " ') ' "( # $& ! & ' & ' 2" " )" ' & ' & .' # & * ( & #" )' #" ' '# & ' '( "( ' $ # " ' 5$& !#6 ' 2 ) & & )&'#'
70
%) ) & " * ') ! "( 5 46 #!# $#& !$ # )'# 5 6 #!# 5 6 # # 546
+$ & ! "( " # #" ' '( "( ' #$ #" ' ' 2 $#& )" %) %) & & " ' & 2" #" ! " ! '!#
& & )" ( $# & 0 $ & ! & ' (#! &#" " ) "( #' ! '!#' #" $(#' ' !$ , $)& - #' $ & & " ! " )' &#" ) "( ' &.$ ()& , ' " ' '$ ! "( ' " ' & ' " #&"#' ')$ & )#' %) (& "'! ( & #' #" $(#' "( & #& ' #$(2 $#& )( - & ( $# & 0 " ') * & "( " ' 1 $#& '( ) "( &* " " ') " ( & (& # , ' (& 2 "3! &# !# " # " & $ & & !$ - & (&
& & ' )' 2 #!)" & ) " ' & ( &0'( ' $& " $ ' $&#, (# $#& !$ # " ) "(# ') &. ( & # ') # ! ( & ' '0 #!# ' #"' & &#" #!# $#' ' '
#" # ( *# * ( & #" )' #" ' #!# & ! ( & "( ! "( ) & " ! ! 5 # ) &#6 # & " " #&! 2" " #! $ ( ' 2 & $#& !.' &( & 5 # " 6
# " ) &# "# ) &# # 2 #
71
72
73
,( " " # 4 - #" $(# ! & ' 4 %) #' "#! & ' #' !# #' ) & " "5! &#' $& !#' ( 6 $ & & #&. & $ 4" 7$& !#8 %) ' %) & & ! ( & $& ! &# ' '2 ' "#! & &0" ' ' & ' $&# ) (#' ' 5" ') 7 & &%)2 8 $ &( " # !0' & " !0' $ %) 3# ' &0 !# # '# $#&( # )! "(#' ( & !#" &# - '2 ' ) # #" '( !1(# # $) ' "#!
74
& & ) %) & #(&# $&# ) (# %) ' " #&$#& $ & ,( " & # 4" " )()&# )" ' $ # $ #" $#&( && #' - #(& ' ' ' #"( " #& ' #!# ( $# & 2 #!$ ! "( & $ & ! & ' 4 )( . & )(& ,( ' 3 $#& & )(& - & '( " + &(. /'( ' )( . &0 " ')' '( "( ' * & ' " ' $ #" ' #!# $0 " + - ( & ( ' $& ' "( 4"
4 $ & # # ! & " (&# #' $&# ) (#' " * . " ,( & #& '(# ' $& " $ ! "( " ' ! "( " & !$ . * ') #' !# #' ' " #"( ! " & #' #" ' 3 ' * ' ' " ,( & #& $ "( %) "# ' ( " !$#&( "( #!)" & ! & #!# ! "( " & ' " . * ') $&# ) (#
75
4x PACKAGING
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
76
5x DISTRIBUCIÃ&#x201C;N Y DIFUSIÃ&#x201C;N
%$) ( $ % " ) %$ + * ) " +)+ ( % / " , 0 #1) &% (%)% # ( % '+ ) ) ((%"" &%( # % " ) ( ) )% " ) )& " # $* $ " &6 " % %, $ ) 5 % +& ( +$ ) )* # , $* ) '+ %# $ +$ &1 $ - + $ % ) ( ) %#% #2*% % +) 5$ &( * $ %$ * ( " &1 $ ( ) %#% %%! $)* ( # / - ** ( $* )* ) ( ) ) +$ (1$ %*% ( 3 ) / %# $* ( %) )% ( "%) &(% + *%) "%) & (* & $* ) " $ &(% + 5$ / " &(% )% &1 $ - $% )5"% +#&" (1 %$ " $ %# ( " 0 ( "%) &(% + *%) ) $% '+ * # 2$ ) +* " 0 (1 %#% $ " & ( $ %(# ( " +)+ ( % " %( $ " &(% + *% " &(% $
"%) # * ( " ) " &(% )% &(% + 5$ "%) & ()%$ ) $,%"+ ( %) / $ '+2 %$ %$ ) ) " %( " )%( % '+ ) )*1 '+ ( $ % %* 0 $ % " #&" # $* 5$ " &1 $ - " &(% ( # %( )* #5 +$ %)*% &(%. # # $* & )%) & ( +$ ) * % " ) ( * (3)* ) )%" * ) %( %*(% " % ) %$) ( '+ " %)* $ & ( " &1 $ $ ) * (1 &(%. # # $* & ( +$ %$ ( %(( * # $* &%( "% '+ ) %* 05 %$ "%) &(%, %( ) &" $ ) %)* $ " $%) / ) 5 &%( +"". %)* $ '+ % ( +$ &" $ '+ % ( & )%) $+ " ) &%( &( )* ( )* ) (, %
) " '+ ) " ) )+ &1 $ ) ,+ ", )* ) 5$ " ! $ % " "% % " # ( $ " )'+ $ )+& ( %( 0 '+ ( $ )* ) 5$ / +$ #1 $ ) " 6"* # %" 5$
'+ #+ )*( "%) " ) ( ) )% " ) )% ) " # ( / " %$ * *% & ( ( &( +$* ) % )+ ( $ )
'+ #+ )*( "%) #% "%) ) &%$ " ) / "%) %"%( ) $ "%) '+ ) ( " 0 $ " &%) ( " +()%( )% ( +$ &(% + *% & ( #1) $ %(# 5$ )% ( )+ &( % )+) # $ ) %$ ) )+ ) ( & 5$ / ) )+ $ #1 $ ) '+ "% #+ )*( $ (*% (( % / %*%) * "" ) ) )% ( +$ &(% + *% )& 3 % ) ( )+ &1 $ $ , + " '+ &(% +$ 0 " $ %(# 5$ $*( $ " 7 8 $* ( %( ) "" ) " & ( &% ( ( " 0 ( " %#&( # $*
'+ %$* $ " ) )+ ) %$ ) 7 *%( )8 7 * ( " )8 / 7 (% )%)8 '+ $ $ %(# 5$ %$ * .*%) .&" * ,%) #1 $ ) "%) $,%"+ ( %) $ " &(% + 5$ "%) #% "%) " # (
77
78
79
' ' ! & # # $ # '
' # '
%
'
80
% ' ' ! # ( & ' ' " ) *
81
82
83
84
6x ESTRATEGIA DE NEGOCIOS %# $ % 7 " $, )8 " . $ ( )* (- " ( %#% #% "% & ( ( ( " )*( * $ % %) ) $ (%$ "%) ) + $* ) &+$*%) & ( " $*( / &*+( , "%( )
%# ( ) $*( / 4%) " $%) '+ , "%( $ +$ )* "% , )+)* $* " "%) &(% + *%) &(% + %) # / " . "+) , &%( "%) '+ )*1$ )&+ )*%) $, (* ( #1) $ (% %) $ "%) # %) & ( '+ ( ( &(% + *%) . "+) ,%)
9 )*(% # ((%'+ $ (% + $ $ , ) )+) %$% # $*%) )% ( " # $ % " + (% / " .& ( $ *2 $ " % % 9 (%, %( + (% +(* # ( " 9 (% ( # %( &1 $ ) - 9 (, % $*( +( +)
9 ) 4% ( 5$ &(% + *%) *( * ,%) & ( " &6 " % )& 3 % 9 $)+#%) + (%) &(% + 5$ )+)* $* " * "" ( / (( # $* ) 9 ( / & ! $ 9 )& % $ $* ($ * &1 $ - / ( ) )% " )
9 $, )* 5$ / 6)'+ +)+ ( % 9 ) 4% " ) %" %$ ) / " # ( 9 (% + 5$ "%) % *%) " %" 5$ 9 %#+$ 5$ / &(%#% 5$ " # ( / )+) &(% + *%) # $* " ) ( ) )% " ) 9 *+ " 0 5$ / # $* $ 5$ " &1 $ - / " ) ( ) )% " )
9 (* & 5$ & '+ 4%) &(% + *%( ) "% " ) # $* #2*% %) &(% + 5$ *( % $ " ) 9 ) +( " . "+) , +( " / " # $* +$ + &(% + 5$ (* ) $ " / & '+ 4 ) " 9 $ $* , " &(%/ 5$ +$ )* "% # ) +" $% "1) % & (% $$%, %( 9 (%&%$ " &6 " % +$ # % %#&( # " ( / '+ ""%) # $ $ # $* " &1 $ -
9 ) , $* ) ) ( " 0 (1$ *( ,2) " &1 $ - ( ( $ % ) " ) ( ) )% " ) '+ $ %$% ( "%) &(% + *%) 9 +) & (* & ( $ ( ) ) 4% )+) * $* " / (* ) $3 & ( &(%#% %$ ( " # ( / (" %$% ( #1) ( * # $* " &6 " %
85
; *5!#( 1 ) , ,5 .) & #( ),' #9( -) , *,) / .) 3 &)- .), - #(0)&/ , )- ( -/ *,) / #9( ; & -* ") & - 0 (. - - ,7 )'# #&#) *), &) +/ & )'*, ), && ( , ( & *5!# ( &)- .)- ( - ,#)- * , , &#4 , & (., ! ' # (. & -#-. ' , * ,.) /, /- / (. & ' , ; )- -#-. (. - ,# - */ ( )() , 3 +/#,#, & *,) / .) #, . ' (.
; *#. & #(# # & "),,)- *,)*#)- *,6-. ')- * ,-)( & - '#&# , - 3 *)-./& #9( . ,. * "#& ; (!, -)- 0 ,# & - , & #)( )- & (.# *,) / .)- +/ - 0 ( (
, # #, & -., . !# #$ #9( *, #)- - -./ #9 & , (!) *, #)- +/ *,) / .)- -#'#& , - ( & #( /-.,# ( #)( & #(. ,( #) ( & ( *,) / .)- )') ') "#& - 3 )&-)- -/- *, #)- - ')07 ( (., &)- 3 * -)- 0 ,# ( ) - !:( & &# 3 #( 4 & ./, ( ) $ .)- '5- * +/ 8)- )') #&& . , - ')( ,)- 3 && 0 ,)- &)- *, #)- ),,7 ( (., &)- 3 &)- * -)- # #9 +/ * , ' (. ( , & ' , ( /( * , #& +/ )'/(#+/ -/ &# 3 -. ./- * ,) :( * & & #(. ,6- & /-/ ,#) "#& () - */(. , /( , (!) *, #)- ' #)
&.)- ( & ), ( &)- * , &)- *,) / .)- *,#( #* & - 3 &)- * , &)- * +/ 8)- )'*& ' (. ,#)- -. , (!) *, #)- / , -) , ' (. &)- )-.)- ' . ,# & - 3 *,) / #9( $ ( ) *,)2#' ' (. ! ( ( # - /( *,)' #) & )-.) ' . ,# & *,) / #9( (07) , /( . & )( & - -.#' #)( - & )-.) *,) / #9( /( /(# ') &) & )& #9( 3 & - ! ( ( # - #,#!#,- & ( 2)
)-.) & ' . ,# *,#' / ,)- "#&)- )-.) 0 ,# & )-.)- *#. & ., $) " ,, '# (. - &/ ! , ., $) )-.) #$) !) $/-.) & ' () ) , - & ,#) $/-.) *), "), ., $) )-.) 0 ,# & , (-*),. )-.) (07) / (. & ' , )-.) 0 ,# & % !#(! )'*, & *,) / .) 3 *,) -) - ,#!, 7 )-.) 0 ,# & 5!#( 1 *,)!, ' #9( ' (. (#'# (.) 3
86
")-.#(! )-.) #$) * ,#9 # ) ,.# #* #9( ( 0 (.)- /*)- ( ,# - 3 * * & ,7 * , # /-#9( )-.) 0 ,# & # ( ) /( *,)2#' #9( & -/' .),# &)- )-.)- #$)- - -.#' +/ * , *)( , ( ' , " -. #(# # .#0 - ( -#. ,7 /( *#. & #(# # & * -)- *, . ( , -. ')(.) $/(. ( ) &)- "),,)- * ,-)( & - *,6-. ')- '#&# , - 3 *)-./& ( ) /( ,6 #.) . ,. * "#&
7x PROYECCIONES
)') *,)3 #9( /./,) - *& (. & )* #9( - ,,)&& , &7( &. ,( .#0 - #(-*#, - ( ).,)- & ' (.)- & ' ,,)+/#( ,7 &5-# " # ( ) !/#8)- )., - -.6.# - )') &)-
* ,)- "/ -)- - )- ( ),, - ) & - /( -.#&) '5- #. #() )(-.,/# )- )( " #&& - 3 )$ .#&&)- -.)- *), "), - ' (. ( ,5( ( . * ) .)
87
88
CONCLUSIÓN, CRÉDITOS Y BIBLIOGRAFÍA
89
90
1x CONCLUSIONES
& & $ " # '
"
& $ $ " " ' $ ! " ! $ $ ! % $ ! #
91
2x CRÃ&#x2030;DITOS 806@0;028M< G 38@4228M< 34 0@B4 'C>4@AC>4@5:C0 8@4228M< 0C38=D8AC0: @8ABM10: !8@0 7<4< 8@4228M< 34 5=B=6@05K0 "0@BK< BC@@84B0 0AA8<= "=34:094 @0<28A2= =AJ "0@K< A8AB4<B4A 0@=: 0@2JA @8AB46C8 =A458<0 *0@60A !O114@B 0 B0:8<0 "=<H0:D4BB
92
3x BIBLIOGRAFÍA
! " # 0::G
0L=A 34 ;=30 ! '=5K0 "0@H=
: 7=;1@4 34A<C ;0A2C:8<0 38B=@80: :C;4 0@24:=<0 A>0L0 3= <= 4A >4@A=<0 &4D8AB0 %0C:0 43828M<
&42C>4@03= 34 7BB> EEE >0C:0 2: & # 0< ( )# '' # =AJ
"=30 G 4<B@4D8AB0 4: 7=;1@4 34A<C3= <= 4A >4@A= 0224A=@8=A 38B=@80: CAB0D= 8:8 0@24:=<0 <0 A>0L0 & !$+ (. "0@80< - ! #827=:0A
'! # & ' -D=<<4 : B@094 8;064< (74 'B0B4 =5 "4< (@4<3 &4>=@B C<8=
34: 7=;1@4 (CA?C4BA 38B=@4A 0@24:=<0 A &42C>4@03= 34 +0:B4@ (7=;>A=< =; >0L0 >0<G 7BB> EEE 9EB8<B4::864<24 2=; E> 2=<B4<B C>:=03A
/ +(/(74 'B0B4 $% #' =7<
&=>0 34 7=;1@4 38 =5 "4</(@4<3 &4>=@B/ >35 B=@80: CAB0D= 8:8 0@24:=<0 A>0L0 )"%! $ "0@K0 =AJ
;4@820< E0G ! $ (=;IA : C0A= 38B=@80: )<8 =5 :854 0;18=A 34 :0A ;0A2C:8<83034A 4< 78 D4@A8B0@80 '0<B806= 78:4 :4 0 >0@B8@ 34 :0 8<5:C4<280 <=@B40;4@820<0
&4D8AB0 %C<B= J<4@= <=D84; !)& ::8A=< : :4<6C094 34 :0 ;=30 1@4
&42C>4@03= 34 7BB> EEE 0<C0 C<0 8<B4@>@4B028M< 34 :=A ;=3=A 34 D4AB8@ 38 @8=237 C278:4 2: 8<34F >7> &% 0@ B82:4 28=<4A %083MA 0@24:=<0 A>0L0 D84E 8:4
%4>8< %@4AA *
0A78=< 224A=@84A &). " #Q & A014: : B@094 '8<60>=@4 B@0<A5=@;028=<4A 34 C<0 A46C<30 >84: '4@84 @B4 G '=284303 4< 78:4
'0<B806= &$ (. ! 4@<70@3
: 010::4@= "0 3828=<4A )<8D4@A8303 0BM:820 34 78:4 <C0: 34 ;=30 ;0A2C:8<0 2:IA820 38B=@80: N &4A20B03= 34 7BB> EEE C>= 4A 34>0 E41 <4;0<<A 0@24:=<0 A>0L0 37C;0 0@40A 0@B4 21 3=2C;4<B=A
5 >35 &$ (. ! 4@<70@3
CK0 34 4AB8:= >0@0 4: 7=;1@4 )::;0< 0@24:=<0 A>0L0 $& @80<<0
: D4AB83= G :0 4:= 2C4<280 34: 1=BM< 0:0A G A86<858203= 4< 4: 4ABJB82= 38A2C@A= 34 :0 0>0@4<B4 38AB8<28M< 2C:BC@0: ;0A2C:8<0 )<8D4@A8303 34 "C@280 &4A20B03= 34 7BB> EEE 1=B=<4A0<B86C=A 4A E> 2=<B4<B C>:=03A
4: D4AB83= G :0 4:=2C4<280 34: 1=B=< >35 $#.Q! . !=@4<0
8A4L= ':=E &4 5:4F8M< 203J;820 34 8A4L= G =;C<82028M< #P, , 02C:B0A 34 8A4L= G =;C<82028M<
93
*<7D3@A72/2 23 &/:3@;= '31C>3@/2= 23 6BB> 472= >/:3@;= 32C A3@D717=A.2G1 >C 0:71/17=<3A21 D7AB/ 23B/::3./@B71C:= >6> 72. :70@= 72./@B71C:=
@3D7AB/ 0C3</ A/:C2 =<:7<3 @31C>3@/2= 23 6BB> EEE @3D7AB/0C3</A/:C2 1: 3: 6=;0@3 167:3<= 23 6=G 1C72/ AC />/@73<17/ A7< /D3@ 5=<H/@A3
#%%' # '), ()" )63 C@03@@G 0CA7<3AA ;=23: 1@3/B7<5 /< 7<B3@ </B7=</: :CFC@G 4/A67=< 0@/<2 <B3@</B7=</: =C@</: =4 '3B/7: 7AB@70CB7=< #/</53;3<B
6BB> 472= >/:3@;= 32C A3@D717=A.2G1 >C 0:71/17=<3A21 D7AB/ 23B/::3./@B71C:= >6> 72. :70@= 72./@B71C:=
EEE 1C3@=<3B 1=;
&%%!*" $ ' (/<8C9B/ ( & ' @:3 A/
=C@</: =4 '3B/7:7<5 /<2 =<AC;3@ (3@D713A (:=E 4/A67=< ;=D3;3<B *<23@A B/<27<5 1=<AC;3@ >3@13>B7=<AK < 3F>:=@/ B=@G ABC2G &I5 / '31C>3@/2= 23 EEE 3:A3D73@ 1=; :=1/B3 8@3B1=<A3@
6BB> 4/7@1=;>/<73A 1=; <3EA D73E 3: B3;>=: A:=EA75< 6BB> 4/7@1=;>/<73A 1=;
( " - ' C/< #/@BJ<
67:3 )@3<2 '3 >=@B '31C>3@/2= 23 6BB> EEE <=D3 <=343 1=; A7B3A 234/C:B 47:3A . " . >24
6BB> EEE ABG:3 1=; 4/A67=<A6=EA @3D73E (
# $ $ ""$%
6BB> EEE ?C7<B/B@3<2A 1=; @= 03@B/ ;=2/ ?C3 3F>:=@/ 3< :/ 6B;:
6BB> EEE 4/7@B@/234323@/B7=< =@5
() '$ /@0/@/ L 0AB@/1B $=AB/: 6BB> EEE 27A3<=</17=</: 1: 57/ 7< 2D3@B7A7<5 )3FB '=;/<17<5 B63 &/ABL 7< $ 2D/<13A 7< =<AC;3@ '3A3/@16 +=:C 6BB> EEE 4=<A31/ 1=; /@ ;3 32A =6< (63@@G @ /<2 @7/< (B3@ <B6/: &@=D= *) AA=17/B7=< 4=@ =<AC;3@ '3A3/@16 '31C>3@/2= 23 6BB> EEE /1@E3 0A7B3 =@5 A3/@16 D73E 1=<43@3<13 >@=133 27<5A /A>F 2 *""% "7:7/</ +3AB7;3<B/ G /2=@<=A >@367A>I <71=A 23 @71/ 3ABC27= 23 :/ *<7D3@A72/2 23 )/ @/>/1I '31C>3@/2= 23 6BB> 7;/53A .>C0: # >24
94
ANEXOS
95
96
x
ANEXO 1
#44+1 6#.+# $4+. '064' :
%%'514+15 #4)1..#5 /@.6+2.'5 '0 70# 14',# ' )756#0 '. #.)1&?0 : .# .#0# 6'.#5 A4'#.'5B
#>15 6+21 %10 '92#05+10'5 4#$#,1 7'$.'4+# +%'0%+#674# '0 46' : '&#)1)=# '0 +5614+# "#2#615 '964#0,'415 2'&+&15 214 +06'40'6 412# &' '2'
#>15 4#$#,1 #437+6'%61 2418'%*# &' 64#'45' 412# &' 575 8+#,'5 ')@0 .# 1%#5+?0 5' 8+56' &' 6'0+&# &' 1(+%+0# 8+5+6#5 '0
'#05 4+6'4+1 %1/1&+&#& *1: 5' 2751 %*#.'%1 214 '. (4=1
6'4'01 24'5'06#%+?0 &' 241:'%615 1 +0(14/#. 64#$#,1 '0 %#5#
' +06'4'5# /7%*1 214 57 '56+.1 2'4510#. %%'514+1 #06'1,15 '92#05+10'5 #/$#5 14',#5 6#67#,'5
%%'514+15 #06'1,15 &' 51. )7#)7# #>15
#>15 #06#.10'5 %1.14 /156#;# #06'1,15 ;#2#615 &' &+5'>#&14 +0&'2'0&+'06' #>15 #4)'06+01 1/24# '0 4'6#+. : #(+6+ 06'40'6 4+6'4+1 %1/1&+&#& #%6+8+&#&'5 &'. &=# 6'/2'4#674# : %.+ /# )7561
1441 4+.$: : 6#67#,'5 %10 21.'4# # 4#:#5 1 37+;1 5'4 '064'8+56#&1 #>15 4#$#,1 '567&+#06' 6+67.#0&15' '0 +6'4#674# 0).'5# 1/24# '0 $176+37' "#0+- : 4'6#+. 01 '0%#4)# 214 06'40'6 4+6'4+1 412# 0'764# %?/1&# : 8'45<6+. %%'514+15 #06'1,15 ?26+%15 &' /#4%1 )47'51
#>15 4#$#,1 4'56#74#%+?0 6#..#&1 &' /#&'4# ' )756#0 .15 6#67#,'5 &' '56+.1 )4#((+6'41 6+'0' #/+)1 )4#
47)5614' 418+&'0%+# $4+. #
(+6'41 6#67#&14 1/24# '0 #0&'4# %10 61 1/+)1 '0 .# ('4+# &' .# !0+ 8'4&+&#& &' *+.' /7: $#4#615 #/$15 2+&+? 214 +06'40'6
#>15 4#$#,1 '0 .# .+$4'4=# 1064#27061
#.)70#5 24'0&#5 21.'4?0 5'4+)4#(+#&1 %%'514+15 6#67#,'5 : #41 27.5'4#5 &' *+.1 4'.1, 41,1 )4#0& 4#$#,1
4+6'4+1 %1/1&+&#& 1/24# '0 6+'0&#5 &' 418+&'0%+# /#4%# /'4+%#0+01 : 108'45' &10&' *#:# %15#5 &' 57 6#..# %%'514+15 6#67#,'5 '537'.'61 &' #06=.12'
#>15 4#$#,1 &+5'>#&14 1/24# '0 4'6#+. : 412# 75#&# %1/24# 21%1 '0 #44+1 6#.+#
2+0# 37' #44').#45' '5 70 4'(.',1 &' .# #761'56+/# : 37' '56# 6' &# '56+.1
214 %105+&'4# 37' '5 %#41 : 01 /7: $+'0 *'%*1 4#$#,# '0 %#5# #5= 37' 27'&' 2'4/+6+45' .# %1/1&+&#& : 8'45' $+'0
#>15 4#$#,1 #437+6'%61 4+6'4+1 37' %1/$+0'0 .15 %1.14'5 37' 01 %*137'0
97
3146% 32:)67) %6037 366-7 ) %2+3 8-)2(%7 )74)
) %B37
'-%0->%(%7 !4-2% 59) )78? &-)2 %66)+0%67) 1-)286%7 23 7)% )<')7-:3 2-
#6%&%.3 .)'98-:3 () 7)6:-'-3 %0 '0-)28) )2 0%63 6-8)6-3 '%0-(%( = )78-03 '313(-(%(
6)'%6+%(3
3146% $-28%+) 378%0+-' 378)6 !4-2% 59) )78? &-)2 %66)+0%67) 923 8-)2) ()6)',3 % :)67) &-)2
%B37 #6%&%.3 %6/)8-2+ )2 -2)6A% 6-8)6-3 '313(-(%( 3146% 6)8%-0
* %B37 #6%&%.% )2 92% %0)6A% )2 )6')(
!4-2% 59) 6)74)8% %0 59) 59-)6) %66)+0%67) 4)63 @0 23 0) (% 8%28% -14368%2'-% 7- 923 7) 4%7% % 0-1%67) 0%7 9B%7 7-
6-8)6-3 '313(-(%( = :)67) &-)2 314% )2 8-)2(%7 :-28%+) = () "63:-()2'-% &398-59)7 ()
7) 432) 1)8637)<9%0 =% 7) 4%7% % 1%6-'32%>3 6)) 59) )0 8)0)*323 )0 00%:)6 = 0% &-00)8)6% =% 732 79*-'-)28) %(3623
%78%66-% 86%) 634% )2 797 :-%.)7
( %B37 G6)% '31)6'-%0 () 1-2)6A% 6-8)6-3 '313(-(%( = '3036)7 3146% 6)8%-0 )2 )0 1%00 !4-2% 59) )7 .9783 59) )0 ,31&6) 7) 46)3'94) 436 79 %4% 6-)2'-% 59) 23 83(% 0% '%6+% 7) 0% ()&)2 00):%6 0%7 19.)6)7 '')736-37 6)03. 0)28)7 1%6'37 '32 )78-03
( % :)2-(% "63:-()2'-% &6-0 %
31)28%6-37 ',3 () 1)237 &9)237 &30737 59) 23 7)%2 1%6- '%7 )2 ,-0) ,%= 43'3 4%6% ,31&6)
%B37 (-7)B%(36 +6?*-'3 % & '
%B37 %659-8)'83 %
&
( 38%7 23 %'')736-37 31)28%6-37 %= 6) 43'%7 '37%7
'
( 31)28%6-37
%B37 -2+)2-)63 '-:-0 -2(9786-%0
98
%
& '
%B37 )789(-%28) () (-7)B3 -2(9786-%0 % &
(
31)28%6-37 %08%2 '37%7 () &9)2% '%0-(%( '313 '-28963
' (
2)7 &9)237 3 &32-8%7 '300)6%7
31)28%6-37 !.%0? ,9&-)6%2 1?7 8%00%7 () 731&6)637 % 1- 1) 59)(%2 83(37 +6%2()7
%B37 (-7)B%(36 () 732-(3 % &
%B37 (9)B3 () 0-&6)6A% %
'
&
' (
( 31)28%6-37 -7 %'')736-37 8)2+3 59) 86%)61)037 () %*9)
31)28%6-37 3 7) 7- 73= &9)2 6)*)6)28) 23 '6)3 59) 8)2 +% 19',% 634%
6% '%(% :)> 59) :-%.3 1) 86%-+3 92% 1%0)8% 00)2% () 490 7)6%7 = '37%7
+ %B37 (-7)B%(36 -2(9786-%0
- %B37 %'836
%
&
% &
'
(
' (
31)28%6-37 %08% :%6-%6 0% 634% -28)6-36 )2 +)2)6%0 )7 794)6 *31)
31)28%6-37 ) )2'%28%6A% 59) ,9&-)6% 1?7 :%6-)(%( () '%1-7%7 = 731&6)637 () (-78-28%7 8)0%7 E7) (-') 8)0%7 % D08-1% 46)2(% 59) 8) 432)7 )78? () 1?7
, %B37 1D7-'3 %
& '
* * '$& #)! & & ") # &
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 .90-%2 4-283
1?+)2)7 )<86%A(%7 () -28)62)8 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 63(6-+3 368)+% ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 2-'3 &%7'92%2 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 *)0-4) '3*6) ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 %0*3273 :-%0 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 (%:-( 7,-2 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 ',6-78-%2 )6( 1%22 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 (-)+3 :%6+%7
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 .36+) (959) ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 1%29)0 *-+9)63% ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 09-7 %'):)(3 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 4%&03 +32>%0)> ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31
4-)66) 0)%0 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 .%:-)6 1363 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 %60)88) 63.%7 = %2+)03 &%66-)2837 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 73*-% ()0 6-3 = 2-'3 '%78-003
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 8%83 %0%2-> ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 &6)2(3 +%6'-% = %(6-%23 +32*-%28-2-
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31
'6-78-%2 %2-2%8 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 %2(= ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 '6-78-%2 +6%77-
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 .9%2 '%6037 ()0 7%28)
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 .9%2 .37) 6-',%6(7
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 7,9=0)6 8,314732 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 2-'30%7 %+9-66)
'$&
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 *)0-4) +32>%0)> ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 1%<-1-0-%23 1%'9)6
'%1-7% () '3036)7 2)98637 4%28%032)7 4-8-003 3 &)619(% () '3036)7 .)%27 4-8-003 ',%59)8% () '368) '0?7-'3 :-28%+) &0%>)6
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 4%90% 6)=)7 = 1% 8-%7 136)23
>%4%837 () '9)63 3 13'%7A2 () 1%6'% -2() 4)2(-)28) 7;)%8)6 () 49283 )2 '3036)7 2)98637
,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 4%86-'/ ;92(/) ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31
1%6-%23 830)(3 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 *)()6-'3 ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31
%03273 &978%1%28) ,884 ;;; :-78)0%'%00) '31 %2(= :3900-%1)
'-2896C2 '0?7-'3 :-7-&0)7 %28)3.37 () 730 = 1%6'37 :-28%+) %B37 F = F 4-)6 '-2+7 7)2'-0037 :-7-&0)7 6)03. '0?7-'3 '%7-3 () %')63 3 2)C2 :-7-&0)7 '36&%8% )786)',% ,91-8%7 490
99
100
1#0 1 4'1' *#1 -*1-1 + *#2<, 4',2 %# 1-+ 0#0-1 !*91'!-1 "# . ( .',1 . =3#*- -*1'**- !3#**-
< 0'"- #,20# 4',2 %# !*91'!- 7 +','+ *'1+-
0 120#0< 0:-, 0 !< * ,1- -.+ , 0--)1 0-2&#01 #5.-02 #.# # ,1 +#0'! ,',- '** ,"#0 **31 #12' 1 *
0#..7 (-4#, 7 1-$'12'! "- 1.'0 !'>, -0'%#, #, .0#. 0 2-0' 1 .0#12'%'-1 1 ',%*#1 1 7 #12 "-3,'"#,1#1 # ',$*3#, !' 1 +-" 7 2#""7 -7 0#1'12#,!' * %03,%# *'+.'#8 7 .3*
30%3;1 -*- 30'$'! !'>, 0!< ,'/*- * 0#1# - *'4'
!0'23" #12'*- !3'" "- 2#,"#,!' !*91'! .-0 1- 0# $ "1 "# +-" +#,-1 #1 +91
.0-6'+ " +#,2# 3, "#!* 0> /3# *%3, "# 131
*#+#,2-1 !-,2#+.-09,#-1 (34#,'*#1 !&'*#,-1 !-02#1 "#
.0#," 1 .0-!#"< "# $#0' 1 *' 0#1 0-. +#0'! , - &#0#, !' 1 $ +'*' 0#1
.#*- "#1-0"#, "-1 .'#0!',%1 2 23 (#1 .3*1#0 1 "#2 **#1 /3# ?',$-0+ *'8 ,@ * '+ %#,
* "% " ! " ?@58; ;9;050-0 A:/5;:-850-0 $>1/5; ;91>/5; 6A?@; ';.>510-0 +; :; 1?/;6; 8- >;<- #@>;
&1?A91: 01 8-? >1?<A1?@-? ( # " ?/;8-> .G?5/- ?/;8-> 9105- 'A<1>5;> !-35?@1> ;/@;>-0;
>=A5@1/@A>- 5?1J; >=A5@1/@A>- :31:51>I- /;91>/5-8 :31:51>5- ;:?@>A//5K: 5B58 5?1J; >G25/; 5:1 :31:51>I- ;91>/5-8 :31:51>5- 5B58 :31:51>I- 5?1J; $A.85/50-0 1>1/4; :31:51>5- 5B58 :31:51>I- 5B58 :05?@>5-8 :59-/5K: ;88131 01 51:/5-? !105/5:-
# 958 <1?;? 958 <1?;? 9588K: 01 <1?;?
9588K: 9588;:1?
9588;:1?
&1B5?@-? 1?<1/5-85F-0-? &1B5?@-? 01 >1@-58 ;/- - .;/- #.?1>B-:0; 8- BI- <L.85/- 8;3? 01 9;0- "; 91 5:2;>9; #@>;
* "& " " ;>.-@- ;881>-? $-JA18; 01 .;8?588; A2-:0-? E <-JA18;? 5:@A>K: ; ?A?<1:?;>1? ';9.>1>;? E 3;>>;? A-:@1? :588; $A8?1>- ;88-> #@>;
* ! $ " ! # " !
* "& $ !
'I ";
!
' " !
* "& " !
* "& ! $;>=A1 1? A: 05?/A>?; ?;/5-8 E <;>=A1 1? ?1DE $;> B1>?1 .51: ? A:- 2;>9- 01 501:@525/-> E 0521>1:/5->?1 :@1>1?-:@1 ?@58; B-:50-0 A50-0; 01 8- -<->51:/5- ? 5:41>1:@1 -8 ?1> 4A9-:; -019G? 01 1:@>1@1:50- *-:50-0 $;>=A1 >12816- - 8- <1>?;:- /K9; 1? <;> 01:@>; !1 3A?@- B1>91 .51: *1>91 .51: $;> 18 B-8;> 05?/A>?5B; =A1 4-E 01@>G? 01 8- >;<- $;>=A1 @;0; 1:@>- <;> 8- B5?@- 4-E =A1 9-:@1:1> A:- .A1:- <>1?1:@-/5K: <1>?;:-8 $->- 0521>1:/5->91 01 ;@>;? E @-9.5H: <->- 1?@-> /K9;0; /;:953; 95?9; "; 91 3A?@- @-:@; /;:;F/; 8-? /;?-? .G?5/-?
$;>=A1 91 0- 8-@- 8- B1>0-0 "; 91 5:@1>1?- "; 4-E >;<- 01 ;9.>1 "; 1? = :; 91 3A?@1 91 1? 5:0521>1:@1 (1:3; 95 <>;<5; 1?@58; E ?;E 01 3A?@;? ?59<81? E ?1:/588;? !1 3A?@- :; 91 5:@1>1?- ? 05?@5:@; !5? 3A?@;? :; /-9.5-: @-:@; /;9; 8- 9;0* !% " " #</5;: 01 /-0- A:; 83; !1 0- 8; 95?9; '5 4-?@- /51>@; <A:@; '5 "; 91 59<;>@- "; - 8; 9-? A: @>-61 1813-:@1 <->- -83A:- ;/-?5K: =A1 8; -91>5@1
* !% " "
* " ! ! " ! ! !
'I 'I ; ?A25/51:@1 <->- ?13A5> ?51:0; 4;9.>1? '5 ; 9I:59; 01 -4I 1: -018-:@1 1? 3-E '5 1<1:01 0125:59;? ->>1381:
-?5 :; 3-?@; /;: ?A1>@1 - :; ?1> =A1 @1:3- =A1 /;9<>-> -83; :1/1?->5; /;9; A: -.>53;
* ) "
* "% " ! "
&1@-58 &5<81E -8-.188- $->5? ;@>;? &;<- 91>5/-:- :@1>:1@ (51:0-? :01<1:051:@1? 1>5-? E ; .-F->1? #@>;
;9;050-0 A:/5;:-850-0 $>1/5; ';.>510-0 +; :; 1?/;6; 8- >;<- #@>;
* * "%
* "& " "
'-B5881 &;C ,->- ! !; 88A? -< 4 9 A:5=8; (;<9-: ! 185F + "#( #' )" % # "; 050-? !-A5 ';:? 4 9 (;<?4;< #<<;?5@1 8-:5F A-8=A51>- =A1 :; @1:3- 8- 9->/- 353-:@1 1: 8-? <>1:0-? 050-? /-8F-0; 81B5? #<;?5@1 <;81>-? .G?5/-? &;/72;>0 -@ (59.1>8-:0
;>.-@- ;881>-? $-JA18; 01 .;8?588; A2-:0-? E <-JA18;? 5:@A>K: ; ?A?<1:?;>1? ';9.>1>;? E 3;>>;? A-:@1? :588; $A8?1>- ;88-> #@>;
* " ! ! " ! ! !
- 8A/-? /;:?501>-:0; 3-?@; -:A-8 05B5050; 1: 91?1? 018 -J;
101
x
ANEXO 2
!#& % # )& # ! ( %# ( %#
(%' +"
- " *, /, *"'* -& &"% $ % -*' ' ($ & % &, + **'$$ ' * & , % 5' ('* # %($' & ' . -&'
'&#-&,' '( * "'& + 4+" ' )-4%" + )- % " &, $ - ' -+' (*' - ,'+ )-4%" '+ '&." *, & $ (" $
0 $$ * 3 + " $ -*," '+ $ '* '+ & + $' /(* + ' & $ (2** ' &, *"'* - & ' + -,"$"1 '& +, + &," ' (- '% ($ % &, *+ '& $ &'% * $ &"% $ ,"(' -*," ' -+' , ('* # %($' - *' . - *' - 0 - *' ( * '** + - *' -*," "6& . , $ ,
'%7&% &, $$ % - *' & -& % , *" $ -* $ "% (-,* + " $
(%' # & ,3*%"&' & * $ ( * - *'+ 0 (" $ + )- '&+ *. & +- +,*- ,-* & ,-* $ " *'+ 0 )- ! & +" ' ,* , '+ & '*% , $ .3 + -*," "6& )- * +-$, & "%(-,* + " $ + "& $-+' +(-3+ -& ,* , %" &,' '& - - ! *+ $"%" & ' ' &' $ ( $' ' $ $ & " *, + (" $ + ,* , + ' + '*% &2$' ( *' +"& )- + $ + ! 0 + ( * ' $ ( $' + &'%"& & 8(" $ + ( * ( $ , *4 9
, -*," '+ ' , &" '+ ,* , & ' + % + (" $ + '."& + ' (" $ + '."& + + $'* + '& $ !4 '+ -*," ' ' , &" ' % " &, $ -+' -& % 1 $ -0' (*"& "( $ "& * " &, ,".' + -& + $ $-%"&"' $ '$'* & ,-* $ $ -*," ' + $ & ' -*," ' ' , &" ' "& '*('* & ' 1-
' (- & "&"*+ '%' - *'+ -*," '+ )- $$'+ (*' - ,'+ & -0 *" "6& $ +,*- ,-* '*" "& $ $ (" $ + + '%('& & " * + ('$.'+ - ',*'+ * % &,'+ ('* % "' (*' +'+ )-4%" '+ ' % 2&" '+ 0 $- ' + (*'
* 0 +-+ '%(- +,'+ $ (" $ ('* ,* , %" &,' 2 " ' 0 ,"' +-$ ,' +' "' " $ ' - *' -*," ' / $-+". % &, '& + $ + *'%' ' '& 3+, + '&#-&, % &, '& ( )-
$ * '&+,",- "6& +'+ * % &,'+ & $2%"& + - ',* + '*% +
5 + &," + ',*' -*," &, -+ ' ( * ' 0-. * $ (*' +' -*," "6& $ *'%' 0 &' & &," +- " " &,
-*," ' ' , &" ' ('* "& '*('* "6&
( * $, * * $ *2 , * + & " $ $ -*," "6& $ *'%'
$ (" $ * + + $ & + '*" & &"% $ $ + - $ + $ /( *"% &, * %' " " "'& + )-4%" + & '&, ,' '& $ + " * + (*' - & $ "# "6& % , *" + * + +
-*," '+ ' , &" '+ / $-+". % &, '& &, + -*," &, + . , $ + ' " & '& 3+,'+ " "' & '+ ( )- 5 + &," + ',*'+ &, + -*," &, +
, " $ + ' - *'+ -*," '+ '& '% (- +,'+ +"$4 '+ )- + * , *"1 & ('* +- '$'* $ & ' 0 $ ($ &",- $ -*," "6& '*% $% &, ," & & + +
-+ '+ +'$ % &, ( * ' 0-. * $ (*' +' -*," "6& ' ( * % #'* * $ -*," ' ( *' &' & &," +- " " &, ( * $, * * $ *2 , * + & " $ $ -*," "6& . , $
* +"+, & " $ ,* "6& 0 $ + **
" $ ' - *' -*," ' '& '+ ' %2+
-*," ' ' , &" ' % " &, $ ,* , %" &,' ", + ( + ' &"% $ + % *"&'+ ' +"&,3," '+ +' * (" $ + - % &, (* ( * + +,'+
&, + -*," &, + " $ ' - *' )- ! +" ' -*," ' '& + $ + %"& * $ + , $ + '%' $ + $-%"&"' !" **' *'%'
", + + +'% , & +(-3+ '/" "6& - ',*'+ % "'+ )-4%" '+ * +-$, & ' $$' -& '% "& "6& )-4%"
0 1"* '&"' 3 + -*," ' '% "& '
$'+ *". '+ $ ", '& $ (" $
102
!#%
%%#$( " %* + $ ,* #' )- + ,7 '& $ - *' "&' ' $ (" $
+( ,' * , *4+," ' $'+ ('*'+ ."+" $ + +' * $ +-( * " " /, *& -& - *' ' -& (" $ +(-3+ $"%"& * $
'& +, % , *" + (*' - & '$+'+ % $ ,"& + '** +
( $' ' $ $ & 0 ( -$" * $ &"% $ )- + ,* , ( $'* %-0 $ + ( * -& - *' & ' . -&' % " &, -& %2)-"& "." "* " $ ' - *' -0 +-( * " " $'* !
'(% ! ( %#
+" ' ( * " $% &, $"%"& ('* + $'* ' " $ ' - *' -*," '+ , $ '*% )-
3*%"&' &3*" ' )- +" &" " $ - " *, /, *"'* -& &"% $ % "3& + &'%"& & +4 $ + (" $ + ( $ , *4
- *' . -&' -*," ' $ . , $ +"& * )- ! +" ' '& " "'& ' +"& &"& -& * +
!
+ (*' - -& & ' "%" &,' $ ( $'* ' , &"3& '+ -& +-( * " " $ $'* '& ($" - + 0 * &-* + +" - $ +
-*," + 0 + '& +- ( $'
3 + *"+( ' - '+ ' '* ! " $ ' - *' -*," ' ' '& -& $'* * &' ( )- 5' + **'$$ '
! " !#%
( ! &( ! '
-*," ' )- $$ . $ +-( * " " '*" "& $ $ $'* , $ '* &' )- $ + - " *,' +(-3+ $"%"& * $ (" *%"+ '& $ ( $' "& $-" ' 0 +"& ! * $"%"& ' $ ( $'* ('* % "' + $'* ' +% *"$ ' ' "." " ' 3 + $'* ' ** "
- *' -*," ' '& '*, 1 + 2* '$ + ' /,* ,'+ -*," & , + . , $ + -,"$"1 & & * $% &, /,* ,'+ (*' &, + " %"%'+ *' $ + ' ("&'+
103
x
ANEXO 3
($
104
#$ $ "
#$ "
#$ &' ! " %
#$ $
" $
" $ #