NEw WAVE fAshIOn of d.c. ThE A LIFESTYLE + ENTERTAINMENT MAGAZINE • OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022 STYLISH BARS ALL THE FALL THINGS DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS LATE-NIGHT PIZZA THE NEXT GEN OF STYLE SETTERSTAKING OVER THE DISTRICT
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53 5 BODY-POSITIVE INFLUENCERS 58 FALL FASHION FORECAST 29 LATE-NIGHT PIZZA IN D.C. 39 THE NEXT GEN OF STYLE SETTERS
ROBERT KINSLER Publisher robert@unitedfray.com
MONICA ALFORD
Editor-in-Chief + Director of Media monica@unitedfray.com
BRANDON WETHERBEE
Managing Editor brandon@unitedfray.com
NICOLE SCHALLER Assistant Editor nicole@unitedfray.com
JAMIE MCCRARY
Senior Editor jamie@unitedfray.com
MICHAEL CLEMENTS
Editorial Consultant michael@unitedfray.com
JULIA GOLDBERG
Editorial Designer julia@unitedfray.com
CLAIRE SMALLEY Production Designer claire@unitedfray.com
TOM ROTH
Key Account Manager tomroth@unitedfray.com
MARTIN ESPINOZA
Senior Director of Events martin@unitedfray.com
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Aviva Bechky, Krystina Brown, Alexa Kasner, Chad Kinsman, Priya Konings, Keith Loria, Joe Marshall, Nevin Martell, Mayra Mejia, Myles Mellor, Abi Newhouse, Andrew J. Williams III
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS +
Krystina Brown, Eric Dolgas, Scott Suchman, Andrew J. Williams III
Juenger
+ JeweLie
3DISTRICT FRAY | TABLE OF CONTENTS
PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Abi Newhouse CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Olivia
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER Scott Suchman ON THE COVER Alex Shin
Anderson Cover models JeweLie Anderson + Alex Shin. Photo by Andrew J. Williams III. 63 10 LOCAL MAKERS RADAR 8 District Denizens 11 Reading List 13 DMV Sounds 15 Calendar EAT 24 5 Dining Adventures 32 Food for Thought DRINK 34 Sip in Style MUSIC 36 Life Is But a (Ska) Dream CULTURE 6 On the Cover 60 Inside 1984V’s New Collection 74 The Tina Turner Musical 76 Cue the Lights SEEN 51 Behind the Scenes 79 D.C. Walls Festival 91 U.S. Women’s National Team LIFE 80 Holistic Hospitality 82 Members Only 102 In Other Words PLAY 84 Wizards’ Playoffs 86 Beginner’s Guide 89 Players’ Club FUN 97 Photo Hunt 99 Crossword 101 Fashion Illustration
THE NEW WAVE OF D.C. FASHION. Scott Suchman came to me with a vision. If you aren’t already familiar with his stunning editorial food photography, Suchman is an artist who I trust completely when it comes to our collaborations. So whether it’s capturing the art of foraging for mushrooms in the woods for his latest Food for Thought column with writer Nevin Martell or pitching a cover shoot at Jumbo Slice in Adams Morgan, I am game.
We’d been toying with the idea of the iconic D.C. pizza joint as a cover backdrop for some time now, and our Fashion Issue seemed like the right fit. What could be more relatable than two super stylish locals dressed to the nines heading to Jumbo Slice late night to avoid an epic hangover the next day? Our October cover is playful and doesn’t take itself too seriously, which is the same ethos we’re bringing to our entire issue about all things fashion in the District.
This month, we are celebrating the next generation of style setters making an impact on the city, from local designers and stylists to makers of all kinds. I want to thank Roquois, the talented mind behind creative agency Studio|Couture, for working closely with my team on the cover shoot to bring our concept to fruition. She brought in looks from motherdaughter team Dur Doux, who we covered this winter after their New York Fashion Week show, Andrew Nowell Menswear and Christopher Schafer Clothier, as well as models JeweLie Anderson and Alex Shin. Casey Rowe, who works for Christopher Schafer, helped style Shin and Roquois styled both models, giving them a couture-meets-urban aesthetic that was equal parts hip and high fashion. Anderson rocked bold jewelry from TruFacebyGrace and a bright color palette from makeup artist Demetria Tymus. On a personal note, Shin donned a pair of hot pink Doc Martens that I am scouring the earth for in my size.
Suchman captured the models in their element: feeding each other a slice, cracking jokes, pretending to look annoyed with one another — the many emotions of a couple eating pizza at 2 a.m. We also stepped outside for an end-of-night shot, encapsulating the vibe of a tired couple waiting for their Uber beneath the Jumbo Slice awning. At the end of the shoot, it was clear that Suchman got the pizza-themed editorial shot he’d been craving and we got the perfect introduction to an issue about making fashion approachable, not exclusive.
In this issue, we round up 14 entrepreneurs in the local fashion industry, five body-positive influencers and 10 makers, highlighting their contributions to our city’s style. We also delve deeper into the stories of several designers and curators, picking their brains about fall trends, ways to diversify your wardrobe and why it’s important to shop local. Our goal is to help readers learn more about and embrace D.C.’s growing fashion scene, and to emphasize that being stylish in our city can be inclusive and affordable. Everyone’s style is unique, but exploring it with your community can be a fun experience — especially in a city with a burgeoning creative scene like ours. Stay tuned for details about our runway show, makers’ market and other D.C. fashion-focused activations the weekend of November 4-5 in Union Market District. In the meantime, we hope you enjoy our latest issue filled to the brim with vignettes about stylish locals and beautiful photo spreads meant to inspire your own personal style. And if you find hot pink Docs in a size eight, please let me know.
Cheers,
MONICA ALFORD EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Cover model Alex Shin with Monica Alford, Julia Goldberg + Nicole Schaller. Photo by Andrew J. Williams III.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
On The Cover
T h E NEw WAVE of d.c. fAsHIOn
PHOTO BY SCOTT SUCHMAN INTERVIEWS COMPILED BY NICOLE SCHALLER
JEWELRY
“All the pieces here are curated. The bracelet and ring are curated from Kenya. The necklace and headpiece as well.”
- TruFaceByGrace Owner + Designer Grace Yeboah Ofori, @trufacebygrace
LIP COLOR
“We decided on the Maybelline Vivid Liquid Lipstick in the color Orchid Shock. JeweLie’s dress has a pop of purple underneath which worked very well with the lipstick choice.”
- Makeup artist Demetria Tymus, @glammbydeme
DRESS
“The inspiration behind the dress was our AW22 Collection La Nouvelle Mosaique. This collection is a modern fashion interpretation of an ancient popular art form: mosaic art. The color palette is exceptionally vibrant, with focal colors Tyrian purple, goldenrod, cobalt blue and jungle green.”
- Dur Doux Designers Najla + Cynthia Burt, @durdoux
THE VIBE
“My vision was to have them come across as fashionable and chic but also let their amazing personalities shine through. These are two chill individuals who model and yet will still stuff their faces with pizza after a long night of premiers, VIP events and afterparty hopping.”
Stylist Roquois, @mystudiocouture
- Studio|Couture Founder + Womenswear
THE AFTER-PARTY
“I think Alex and I just came from an extravagant high-end fashion show after-party. And I think in this photo, we’re waiting for our Uber headed to the AFTER afterparty, and we’re bringing pizza for everyone.”
- Model JeweLie Anderson, @jewelieanderson
“I was thinking after a long night we got pizzas for the after-party and the Uber just arrived. It seems like I was happy to finally feed the fam and take my tired and hangry date home.”
- Model Alex Shin, @jazzlex
SUIT
“The suit is made up of 100% cotton into velvet. The fabric is sourced from a mill we use in Italy. Our suits take six to eight weeks to construct.”
- Christopher Schafer Clothier Partner + Menswear Stylist Casey Rowe, @christopherschafer
DOC MARTENS
“I chose Docs because they are sophisticated, functional and fashionable. You can dress them up or down and they offer so many unique colors now. Docs are genderless and are really a blank canvas that offer the consumer creativity and expression.”
- Studio|Couture Founder + Womenswear Stylist Roquois, @mystudiocouture
NOT PICTURED. Andrew Nowell Menswear, who also provided a suit option for the photo shoot and Avant Gardist by Yasuyuki Ishii, who provided a womenswear leather bolero jacket. Follow them at @andrewnowell_menswear and @yasuyukiishiiasia.
7DISTRICT FRAY |
the Thread
D.C.-based designer Angeline Oei’s journey to fashion WORDS + PHOTO BY NICOLE SCHALLER
RADAR
Following
For as long as she could remember, Angeline Oei would draw clothing, but she did not believe designing was a career.
“I am originally from Singapore,” says Oei, who now designs clothing for her D.C.-based brand A.Oei Studio. “I grew up in a place where creative arts were not regarded as something you should pursue. I never thought about doing fashion at all. I thought of it as a hobby.”
In downtown D.C., Oei sits in front of her sewing machine, surrounded by her folder full of sketches and creations hung on racks. How the designer found her way to fashion can be seen in her garments.
A global design influence
Whether a dress, slacks or a blouse, Oei’s designs are crisp in structure, reminiscent of architecture. This structural style was influenced from her time at Amsterdam Fashion Institute. Dutch fashion is known for clean lines, dating back to strict conservative Protestant styles.
Initially, Oei studied English literature at the University of Singapore. But during a college exchange program to Europe, she visited the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp’s fashion department in Belgium.
“It was my first feeling this was the right place to be,” Oei says. “When I saw the different student’s artwork and clothing, the whole atmosphere, I was like, ‘I have to do this.’”
Following the trip, Oei applied and was accepted to fashion school where she began to learn the basics behind creating clothing. After graduation, she moved to New York to work for a ’90s street style, minimalist designer.
The influence of street style and minimalism is evident when looking through Oei’s catalog. None of her pieces are embellished, and she works with natural, breathable fabrics like cotton, lyocell and bamboo, often with a black, navy and white color palette. Oei strives to create wearable art that values function as much as aesthetic.
“The fabrics and cut of the designs I use are made so you can [pair] with sneakers or heels,” Oei says. “A lot of my customers are busy women with kids, but they also work at nice jobs so they have to meet clients constantly. My clothing allows them to transition between different environments.”
Fine-tuning the process
A few pieces displayed on Oei’s studio racks showcase custom fabric designs — an approach she’s fine-tuned over the years. One navy blouse is embroidered with teal birds perched on long grass; another blouse has blue-outlined, abstract flowers blooming over the torso and sleeves. The juxtaposition of printed organic shapes against angular garment construction creates a striking statement.
Oei began designing fabrics following her job in New York. She moved back to Singapore to work for a clothing company where she eventually became the fabric designer.
“In Singapore, I was doing embroidery, digital printing, knitting — different kinds of artwork for new fabrics.”
Now with her own line, Oei has the freedom to explore wherever ideas take her.
“I typically work with some kind of concept; for example, with this print,” Oei says, pointing to the most colorful print in the room. “I was inspired by the idea of hybrid flowers. So, combining different floral species to create a new species. I
tried to create my own fantastical version by using turquoise and bright red colors you’re not going to find anywhere in nature.”
When coming up with a design concept, Oei looks to her surroundings.
“I have a whole archive of things I find interesting for inspiration, like news articles. When I go to museums, I take a lot of pictures of different artwork.”
She uses clippings and photos to freehand sketch her design or digitally collage photos before sending to a manufacturer to print the fabric digitally. By incorporating original prints, Oei adds another artistic dimension to her clothing that sets her brand apart.
Building her brand
Oei moved back to the States to live with her boyfriend, first in Seattle and now in D.C. The transition allowed Oei to start her own clothing line and pursue the type of brand she envisioned. While she initially worked with manufacturers and local retailers, the Covid-19 pandemic shifted how she made and sold her clothing.
“When Covid hit, a lot of retailers closed,” Oei says. “I started sewing facemasks and during that process, a few customers asked, ‘Hey, can you make me a custom dress?’ They just really wanted to support me. So, I started making custom pieces and fell back in love with sewing and doing things myself instead of outsourcing from manufacturers.”
The garments hanging in the studio around her are custommade for clients, tailored to their measurements.
“I enjoy working directly with the customer, learning about different people’s habits and needs. A lot of women fall in between sizes, so standard off-the-rack sizes might not necessarily fit. I like being able to provide this service.”
The custom process also allows for impromptu design inspiration.
“A customer asked me, ‘Do you make modern Cheongsam that is not old-school style?’ Cheongsam is a Chinese dress style with the mandarin collar. Women wear it for weddings or formal occasions. It’s very form fitting and feminine. So, I started transforming this sort of classic dress style into something more contemporary by adding relaxed fit pockets, making it more loose-fitting and functional.”
Oei has now created a line of Cheongsam-inspired shirts and dresses. On her website — where some standard size options are offered — there is a whole tab dedicated to this style.
As someone who has lived around the world, Oei picked up pieces along the way to create her distinct aesthetic, carving out a space in the fashion world she can call her own. A.Oei Studio is her story told through clothes.
A.Oei will have a fall trunk show pop-up at Shopkeepers on October 8 and October 15 from 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. To view, shop and request Oei’s custom designs, visit aoei-studio.com or follow her on Instagram at @a.oei_studio.
A.Oei Studio: 996 Maine Ave. SW, DC; aoei-studio.com // @a.oei_studio
Shopkeepers: 1231 Florida Ave. NE, DC; shopkeepersdc.com // @shopkeepersdc
9DISTRICT FRAY | DISTRICT DENIZENS | RADAR
Reading List
WORDS BY BRANDON WETHERBEE
Yes, this issue contains profiles about designers and gorgeous photos of models, but it also gives us the chance to learn more about fashion as an art form. We asked Loyalty Bookstore’s Armani Jackson for book recommendations about fashion for all ages and interest levels. Whether you’re a globe-trotting model, a kiddo interested in design or just a Maxxonista (a person who shops at T.J. Maxx — which is everyone, don’t lie), there’s a book for you.
For the fashion historian
These are a few fashion sourcebooks, which mostly contain images of fashion trends from specific decades.
“Fashion Sourcebook 1920s” dited by Charlotte Fiell + Emmanuelle Dirix
“1930s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook” edited by Charlotte Fiell + Emmanuelle Dirix
“1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook” edited by Charlotte Fiell + Emmanuelle Dirix
“Fashion Since 1900” by Amy de la Haye + Valerie Mendes
For the Afro-centric art appreciator
Highlights African designers, textiles and trends, as well as the continent’s value in the fashion world.
“Africa in Fashion: Luxury, Craft and Textile Heritage” by Ken Kweku Nimo
“Africa: The Fashion Continent” by Emmanuelle Courrèges
For the dream of the ‘90s Highlights ’90s fashion photographers and supermodels.
“Captivate! Fashion Photography From the ’ 90s” edited by Claudia Schiffer
For the Anglophile
Highlights the British photographer who changed fashion photography forever.
“Terence Donovan Fashion” compiled by Diana Donovan and David Hillman
For the Black vanguard
Explores the intersection of art, fashion and photography. Highlights Black fashion photographers who use the medium to create art as opposed to selling a product.
“The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion” by Antwaun Sargent
For the late, great Virgil Abloh
These books highlight the design processes of the late designer.
“Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech” edited by Michael Darling
“Virgil Abloh. Nike. ICONS.” by Virgil Abloh
For why we look the way we look
An in-depth look at how clothing and rules around it represent the current state.
“Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History” by Richard Thompson Ford
For the eco-centric
A history of clothes and fast fashion’s effect on humanitarian rights and the environment. Explains the journey of different textiles to the rack.
“Worn: A People’s History of Clothing” by Sofi Thanhauser
For some fiction
A romance about a stylist. “Meant to Be Mine” by Hannah Orenstein
For the kids
A little girl named Mary loves to dress up to the extreme: feather boas, bright patterns. She meets other fairy tale kids and teaches them to have fun with clothes.
“Mary Had a Little Glam” by Tammi Sauer
A brother and sister wear each other’s clothes regardless of gender stereotypes.
“Tabitha and Magoo Dress Up Too” by Michelle Tea
A little boy loves the orange dress in the dress up room but gets teased.
“Morris Micklewhite and the Tangerine Dress” by Christine Baldacchino
Loyalty Books: 843 Upshur St. NW, DC and 823 Ellsworth Dr. Silver Spring, MD; loyaltybookstores.com // @loyaltybooks
11DISTRICT FRAY | RADAR
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Photo by Brandon Chen.
PLNTR 1825
DMV SOUNDS
WORDS BY BRANDON WETHERBEE
The D.C. music scene is a healthy and thriving music scene. There’s no shortage of world class venues bringing national and international artists to the DMV on a daily basis. While it’s great you can see musicians from all over the globe, it’s just as important to shine a light on locals. We’re highlighting five D.C. artists who will be opening acts this October. If you buy a ticket for the headliner, you might as well see the entire bill.
10.4
Jon Camp opens for caroline
I’ve been listening to Camp for the last few weeks while working and it’s put me in a better mood every time I hit play. His beautiful guitar picking is not of this world or time. It’s reminiscent of classical Spanish guitar, kinda Renn Fest-y and maybe a little freak folk. But classification doesn’t matter with this stuff. Just give his newest release, a self-titled cassette/ Bandcamp stream, 30 seconds of your time and you’ll be hooked. $20. 8 p.m. Rhizome: 6950 Maple St. NW, DC; rhizomedc.org // @rhizome_dc
10.14
S Y Z Y G Y X opens for Ecstatic International
It’s not fair to pigeonhole artists to specific seasons, but S Y Z Y G Y X sounds a hell of a lot better when it’s cold and dark outside. The synth-based project of Luna Blanc is a bit early Depeche Mode (nothing post “Violator”), a bit Grimes (nothing post Elon Musk), a bit Boy Harsher and a lot of dark rooms and sweaty nights. $15. 8:30 p.m. The Runaway: 3523 12th St. NE, DC; therunawaydc.com // @therunawaydc
10.28
Cinema Hearts opens for Broke Royals
Cinema Heart’s Caroline Weinroth is a former Miss Virginia contender and a current hard-working frontwoman. The guitarist writes catchy power pop tunes and acknowledges the stereotypes of both beauty queens and women in music. There’s a lot of bubblegum flair (hand claps, oohs and ahhs) in tandem with shiny, grimy guitars. Recently released “Your Ideal” (with some production flair by Bartees Strange) is their finest release yet. If you give one song a spin, go with “Can I Tell You I Love You.” $19.32. 7 p.m. Songbyrd: 540 Penn St. NE, DC; songbyrddc.com // @songbyrddc
10.30
Rosie Cima & What She Dreamed opens for Dear Daria
Cima’s solo melodies will get caught in your head for days. Whenever I hear their song “Stuck,” the tune gets stuck (no pun intended) on repeat. I love this song and hate songs that use the word “lovers,” and though this song uses the word, I like it. $15. 8 p.m. The Pocket: 1508 North Capitol St. NW, DC; thepocketdc.com // @thepocket_dc
Teen Mortgage opens for Stuck
Teen Mortgage is the best band in the DMV. I write that with confidence and sincerity. The two-piece gets stronger with every release. It’s kinda Misfits, kinda FIDLAR, all no-frills drums, guitar and vocals. What James Guile and Ed Barakauskas do together should be easy to imitate — it’s not rocket science — but it’s undeniably them and so hard to do right. Listen to “Smoked” from their 2021 EP of the same name and you’ll see what I mean. $15. 7:30 p.m. Pie Shop: 1339 H St. NE, DC; pieshopdc.com // @pieshopdc
Caroline Weinroth. Photo by Sammy Hearn.
13DISTRICT FRAY |
It’s finally October! It’s okay to dress up as a skeleton and go to haunted forests. It’s also Hispanic Heritage Month, the start of the NHL and NBA seasons and not-too-hot, not-too-cold for outdoor events. It’s here. The best month of the year.
WORDS BY BRANDON WETHERBEE
CALENDAR | RADAR
THROUGH
10.30
PUMPKIN FESTIVAL
If you don’t get a photo of your kid on a hay bale, hayride or sitting on a bunch of pumpkins with hay in their hair, hay residue on their clothes and a pumpkin painted on their face, are you really a parent? $10+. Multiple times. Butler’s Orchard: 22222 Davis
stay for the bonfires and “iconic playlist” (my guess is you’ll hear “Thriller” once an hour, every hour). $20+. Multiple times. Markoff’s Haunted Forest: 19120 Martinsburg Rd. Dickerson, MD; markoffshauntedforest.com // @markoffsforest
10.2
FINOM (FKA OHMME)
If there’s any justice in pop music, Finom will grow into a Tegan and Sara-esque
7:30 p.m. Jammin Java: 227 Maple Ave. E, Vienna, VA; jamminjava.com // @jamminjava
10.5
THE GASLIGHT ANTHEM + JEFF ROSENSTOCK
Go for the opener. Embrace their ethos. Live life to its fullest. $45+. 8 p.m. The Anthem: 901 Wharf St. SW, DC; theanthemdc.com // @theanthemdc
10.8
DOWN IN THE REEDS
The annual, family friendly festival returns to The Parks at Walter Reed for another all-day event celebrating D.C.’s rich musical heritage. Go for the music, make some music (there’s a hands-on music tent for all ages) and make some new musical friends. Free. 11 a.m. The Parks at Walter Reed: 1010 Butternut St. NW, DC;
LET’S SKATE DC HEALTH
We typically recommend concerts at The Anthem, but we’re extremely pleased to recommend a daytime roller-skating event at The Anthem. Strap on your skates and roll! And pick up our August 2022 issue to
FIRST PAGE. Dehd. Photo by Alexa Viscius.
RADAR | CALENDAR
SINGLE’S D.C. SERIES AT WUNDER GARTEN TUESDAY, 1 10.11 + 11.15 F ROM 6-9 P.M. GE T T ICK E T S
read more about the rollerskating scene in D.C. $8+. 10 a.m. The Anthem: 901 Wharf St. SW, DC; theanthemdc.com // @theanthemdc
SNALLYGASTER
D.C.’s best beer festival celebrates a decade downtown. $65+. 12 p.m. Pennsylvania Avenue + 6th Street in NW, DC; snallygasterdc.com // @snallygasterdc
TWIN TEMPLES
Unlike Christmas music, you can listen to Halloween and spooky music yearround with pleasure. Twin Temples is great 11 months of the year and perfect during October. Get in the mood with a group that looks like they’re from a very fashionable haunted house and sounds like the late 1950s. $20+. 8 p.m. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC ; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
10.12
CAPITALS VS. BOSTON BRUINS
Regular season hockey is back, baby! Sold out. Secondary market tickets start at $42. 7 p.m. Capital One Arena: 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena
FIRST FASHION GALA
Rub shoulders with designers of first ladies and first gentlemen from around the world at this inaugural event hosted by the spouse to the Ambassador of the Czech Republic, Indira Gumarova. $1000+. 6:30 p.m. For security reasons, the venue will be disclosed following ticket purchase; diplomacyandfashion. com // @diplomacyandfashion
10.13
14TH ANNUAL EVENTS DC EMBASSY CHEF CHALLENGE
You live/work/whatever in Washington, D.C. Take advantage of the locale and sample cuisine from every corner of the globe. Literally. These embassy chefs can obtain ingredients you and I can’t, no matter how many times we visit H Mart. $75+. 7 p.m. Smithsonian American Art Museum: 8th + G Streets in NW, DC; americanart.si.edu // @americanart
JOHANNA WARREN
UK-based Warren escaped Florida and set up shop on the other side of the ocean. See her at the best place for burgers in the area and hear her on an upcoming teenage movie drama. Her stuff is perfect for a
soundtrack of heartache for any and all teenagers going through teenage things. $24.72. 8:30 p.m. Quarry House Tavern: 8401 Georgia Ave. Silver Spring, MD; quarryhousetavern.com // @quarryhousetavern
10.14
“BLACK PANTHER”
We’re not recommending this because it’s “Black Panther” — you can see the 2018 film on cable most every night and it’s been a favorite at outdoor movie screenings since its release — we’re recommending it because outdoor movie season is coming to a close. Get in a screening while you can! $20. 7 p.m. The Drive-In at Union Market: 1309 5th St. NE, DC; unionmarketdc.com // @unionmarketdc
17DISTRICT FRAY | CALENDAR | RADAR
#FRAYLIFE TIKI BOOZE CRUISE DC FRAY + SEA SUITE PRESENTS OCTOBER 6 // 5:30-9 P.M. GET TICKETS
RADAR | CALENDAR
DRAG UNDERGROUND
It’s a drag show in the Dupont Underground. Drag Underground is an apt title. $15+. 8 p.m. Dupont Underground: 19 Dupont Cir. NW, DC; dupontunderground.org
// @dupontunderground
EUGENE MIRMAN
If you only know him as Gene from “Bob’s Burgers,” boy, do you have a fantastic 20+ year stand up career to look forward to! $35+. 8 p.m. The Howard Theatre: 620 T St. NW, DC; thehowardtheatre.com
// @howardtheatre
SUDAN ARCHIVES
The kind of pop artist that will change your personal style, Sudan Archives combines violin with West African inspired hip-hop. She’s Cincinnati’s greatest contribution to America
since Skyline Chili. See her before she’s inevitably picked as opener for the next massive Harry Styles or Lady Gaga or Lizzo stadium tour. 8 p.m. $20. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC ; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
10.15
NATASHA LANCE ROGOFF
Rogoff is the author of “Muppets in Moscow: The Unexpected Crazy True Story of Making Sesame Street in Russia.” I know nothing about this tale but as a human raised on “Sesame Street”, I am extremely interested. Free+. 5 p.m. Politics and Prose: 5015 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; politics-prose.com // @politicsprose
SNÕÕPER
The low-fi punk band hailing from Nashville, Tennessee that’s equal parts Ween and Amyl and the Sniffers brings their John Waters-approved tunes to the intimate and beloved Takoma Park house. $15. 7:30 p.m. Rhizome: 6950 Maple St. NW, DC; rhizomedc.org // @rhizome_dc
10.17
BIG BOSS VETTE
You’re never going to see Megan Thee Stallion in a small club like DC9. But you can catch an up-and-coming St. Louis rapper with the confidence, subject matter, delivery and potential of Megan Thee Stallion. $15. 8 p.m. DC9: 1940 9th St. NW, DC; dc9.club // @dc9club
10.18
THE SMASHING PUMPKINS + JANE’S ADDICTION
Whenever my friend visits a new place he exclaims, “I’ve never been to this part of the vampire!” and he’s right, because the world is a vampire. $35+. 6:30 p.m. Capital One Arena: 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena
10.21
BRET MCKENZIE
It’s called the “Songs Without Jokes” tour. Please don’t scream out requests. $42.50. 8 p.m. Lincoln Theatre: 1215 U St. NW, DC; thelincolndc.com // @thelincolndc
18 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
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WIZARDS VS. CHICAGO BULLS
Regular season basketball is back, baby! $26+. 7 p.m.
Capital One Arena: 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com
// @capitalonearena
10.21-22
BRITTANY CARNEY
One of the best comics from D.C. that no longer lives in D.C., Carney makes her Comedy Loft debut this October. If you miss her, visit any and every comedy
show you can this weekend and you’ll most likely see her. $20. Multiple times. The Comedy Loft of DC: 1523 22nd St. NW, DC; dccomedyloft.com
// @dccomedyloft
10.23
DEHD
They look confrontational. They sound like the next Apple commercial in the best possible way. $20. 7:30 p.m.
Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
IRON MAIDEN
Iron Maiden in October in an arena. Yes. Absolutely yes. Timing isn’t everything, but sometimes it just makes things feel right. $49.50+. 7:30 p.m. Capital One Arena: 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com
// @capitalonearena
10.25
17TH STREET HIGH HEEL RACE
Dupont’s finest tradition continues for year 35. What started as an impromptu
‘race’ has turned into an official event of Mayor Muriel Bowser and The Mayor’s Office of LGBTQ Affairs. Free. Participants gather as early as 6 p.m., race at 9 p.m. 17th Street between P + R Streets in NW, DC; fb.com /17thStreetHighHeelRace/
Sudan Archives. Photo by Edwig Henson.
19DISTRICT FRAY | CALENDAR | RADAR
10.27
JEAN DAWSON
Dawson is yet another artist whose presentation benefits the spooky season. He embraces masks and his lyrics embrace the dark side. The 26-year-old from Tijuana and San Diego sounds like the love child of mid 00’s emo and mid 10’s trap. He sounds like now. $20+. 8 p.m. Union Stage: 740 Water St. SW, DC; unionstage.com // @unionstage
MAC SABBATH
Yes, it’s a McDonald’s themed Black Sabbath cover band. $20+. 7:30 p.m. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC ; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
10.28-30
BOO AT THE ZOO
It’s back, baby! Or better yet, it’s back, for the babies
(kids actually; it’s best for kids 4 and up)! $25+. 5:30 p.m. Smithsonian’s National Zoo: 3001 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; nationalzoo.si.edu //@smithsonianzoo
10.29
ALASKA
Enjoy the “RuPaul’s Drag Race” winner and her most recent Fall Out Boy-like tunes. JK, you don’t go to an Alaska show for the tunes. $20+. 8 p.m. The Howard Theatre: 620 T St. NW, DC; thehowardtheatre.com // @howardtheatre
10.30
FIDLAR
Certain bands feel better in certain venues. FIDLAR feels better in Black Cat. Enjoy a tall boy. Or don’t drink. Do whatever you need to do. FIDLAR’s recent
output reflects this. $28+. 7:30 p.m. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC ; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
10.31
HARRYWEEN: A HARRY STYLES COSTUME PARTY
No offense to Harry Styles fans — I’m friends with some — but what exactly would a Harry Styles costume entail? $15+. 10 p.m. DC9: 1940 9th St. NW, DC; dc9.club // @dc9club
11.4
RUSSIAN CIRCLES
They’re not Russian. They’re three musicians from Chicago that play instrumental metal. It’s beautiful. They’re not Russian. $25. 6 p.m. 9:30 Club: 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club
11.5
DC BEER FESTIVAL
The 2022 Washington Nationals were one of the worst teams in baseball. It was so bad it made you want to drink. Head back to the ballpark without the baseball and enjoy some beers. $50. 12 p.m. Nationals Park: 1500 S Capitol St. SE, DC; dcbeerfestival.com // @dcbeerfest
11.6
LISSIE
A modern-day Stevie Nicks in the best possible way. If Nicks wore fewer capes and more denim, you’d get Lissie. This is a good thing. $25. 6 p.m. 9:30 Club: 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club
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11.6-8
MATTEO LANE
Lane is a wonderful stand up in the Bob the Drag Queen and Netflix’s “Stand Out” universe and, fingers crossed, will be playing to larger and larger rooms with each visit. 7:30 p.m. + 9:30 p.m. Sold out. DC Improv: 1140 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; dcimprov.com // @dcimprov
11.10
COURTNEY MARIE ANDREWS
31-year-old Andrews makes the kind of music that’ll sound just as good when she’s 71. $20. 7 p.m. Songbyrd: 540 Penn St. NE, DC; songbyrddc.com // @songbyrddc
11.11
ALVVAYS
Most of Alvvays’ fall tour has available tickets. The D.C. date sold-out over 2 months in advance. This town loves dreamy jangly pop songs from Canada. Sold out. 10 p.m. Secondary market tickets start at $91. 9:30 Club: 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club
11.14
MELISSA VILLASEÑOR
No longer on “SNL,” Villaseñor’s run on the shows seems too absurd and too good to be true. $35. 8 p.m. Miracle Theatre: 535 8th St. SE, DC; themiracletheatre.com // @themiracledc
FEELING
Asian Fusion Gallery is a fantastic venue for Art shows, Fashion shows, Pop-Ups, parties and more. The modernized and open-wide space is great to create unique and memorable experiences and features a highend A/V system, clean white wall, and industry floor. Located in the center of Washington, D.C., it is private, professional, and beautifully designed for you. Call 202-393-1906 to reserve your next event space.
Follow on Instagram @asianfusiongallery and Facebook @asianfusiongalleryatdc
NW Washington DC
21DISTRICT FRAY | CALENDAR | RADAR
1343 L ST
20005
WEDNESDAYS 7 P.M.-8 P.M. AT HI-LAWN Rooftop BINGO SIGN UP TODAY
LUCKY? Join our biweekly BINGO SERIES at as you are
THROUGH 10.5
FALL FIESTA - A HISPANIC HERITAGE MONTH TAKE & MAKE KIT
The D.C. Public Library is a gift to D.C. residents. From free Covid-19 tests in every ward to the entire Libby system, your body and mind will thank you every time you utilize this public service. Another great thing they provide is regular take and make kits for little kids. This month’s take and make kits celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month, giving parents another tool to fill
their kid’s time. Available at most branches in the children’s room. Free. All day. DC Library: dclibrary.org // @dcpubliclibrary
THROUGH
10.12
LATIN AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL
Celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month with yet another fantastic film festival from the American Film Institute. $13+. Multiple times. AFI
Silver: 8633 Colesville Rd. Silver Spring, MD; afisilver.afi.com // @afisilvertheatre
INSIDE HISPANIC HERITAGE MONTH
There’s a plethora of Hispanic Heritage Month events around town. Here’s a few of the remaining events honoring different Latin cultures through art, dance, drag, fashion, film and music.
10.1
DOMINGO’S GOT TALENT PRESENTS: FABULOSÉ
One of D.C.’s finest drag queens, Domingo, returns to 9th and U with their latenight variety show in honor of Hispanic Heritage Month. Go for Domingo, stay for new friends. $10+. 11 p.m. DC9: 1940 9th St. NW, DC; dc9.club // @dc9club
NOCHE DE ORGULLO: CELEBRATING LATINX QUEER ARTISTS
It’s a dual celebration of Pride and Hispanic Heritage Month with a performance from JChris. Free. 8 p.m. La Cosecha: 1280 4th St. NE, DC; lacosechadc.com // @lacosechadc
10.8
FURIA FLAMENCA:
“A TRIP TO SPAIN”
A family friendly show to learn more about the culture and history of flamenco. $15. 11 a.m. The Alden at the McLean Community Center: 1234 Ingleside Ave. McLean VA; mcleancenter.org // @mcleancenterva
10.15-16
LATIN FASHION WEEK
Featuring D.C. designers from Central and South America and the Caribbean who have dressed celebrities for the Oscars, Grammys, the MTV Awards and nonaward related events. Free. 6 p.m. Latin Fashion Week: 300 New Jersey Ave. NW, DC; latinfashionweek.com // @latinfashionweek
10.27
LATINO HERITAGE FESTIVAL CONCERT
While Hispanic Heritage Month technically ends October 15, you can still celebrate and participate after it’s over. It’d be weird if you just stopped caring after October 15. Free. 6 p.m. National Museum of the American Latino: Constitution Avenue between 12th and 14th Streets in NW, DC; latino.si.edu // @uslatinomuseum
Domingo. Photo courtesy of subject.
22 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
THURSDAY’S FREE RSVP dcfray.com/events 10/13 JUSTIN TRANICK & THE COMMON GOOD 10/27 LONNY TAYLOR
CHOOSE YOUR OWN DINING ADVENTURE
Inside 101 Hospitality’s Five Culinary Experiences
WORDS BY PRIYA KONINGS
At District Fray, we love to highlight local pioneers of the D.C. food scene. This month, we shine a spotlight on Chef Matt Baker, who leads the 101 Hospitality restaurant group, encompassing a series of five unique dining experiences throughout D.C. chef Baker’s culinary influence on the city, his commitment to supporting local farms and vendors and his extraordinary team — dedicated to hospitality, sustainability, and supporting women and minority groups — inspired us to share 101 Hospitality’s overall awesomeness.
EAT
The Team
CHEF MATT BAKER
Owner of the 101 Hospitality restaurant group, chef Matt Baker operates five notable dining venues in D.C.: fine dining new American restaurant Gravitas; the Conservatory at Ivy City, a rooftop bar and lounge above Gravitas; Michele’s, a fine dining venue in the Eaton hotel; Lorraine’s, a special chef’s counter dining experience within Michele’s; and finally, Baker’s Daughter, a café with multiple locations around D.C.
Chef Baker’s restaurants showcase his multi-faceted culinary style influenced by growing up in Houston, having a mother from New Orleans, living in Miami and helming a restaurant in Singapore. In D.C., he lent his culinary skills to several restaurants before opening the Michelin-starred Gravitas in 2018. His love of seasonal produce is apparent at all his venues, as well as his mastery of decadent flavors. Follow Matt Baker on Instagram @chef_mbaker
CHEF DE CUISINE RACHEL BINDEL
Chef Rachel loves to recreate food memories at Michele’s, where she collaborates with chef Baker on Lorraine’s “restaurant within a restaurant” tasting menu experience. She keeps a food diary of recipes from every restaurant where she’s worked to help her continue to learn, grow and develop her culinary ideas. She values zero waste and sustainability and tackles these issues daily in her work. Follow Rachel Bindel on Instagram @lilbindel
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS CARLA CHANGWAILING
Changwailing has worked in the restaurant industry for more than 20 years. She’s continuously inspired by her evergrowing obsession with food, wine and spirits. She has honed her knowledge and skills from a variety of dining concepts and from living in different regions of the U.S. Joining the D.C.-area dining scene is the culmination of two decades of education and practice. She is thrilled to learn from and contribute to the diverse team at 101 Hospitality. Follow Carla Changwailing on Instagram @makingandmixinglife
CORPORATE BAR DIRECTOR JUDY ELAHI
Elahi’s commitment to inclusion helps set her apart from other bar directors. She utilizes spirits and ingredients from women- and minority-owned artisans at Gravitas, Michele’s and Baker’s Daughter. She also dedicates her time to women’s rights events, such as this past summer’s cocktail-making fundraiser for Planned Parenthood. Follow Judy Elahi on Instagram @_freshpressed_
CORPORATE EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF
AISHA MOMANEY
Chef Momaney spent many years in New York City’s food industry before bringing her talent to D.C. Her time in New York and her childhood in Vermont, along with the people in her life, inspire her culinary creations. She is known for devising desserts comprised of less sugar and more natural sweeteners and local ingredients. You can sample her desserts at Gravitas, including coconut rice pudding with blueberry compote, corn ice cream and milk chocolate custard. Follow Aisha Momaney on Instagram @amomaney
25DISTRICT FRAY |
EAT
The Restaurants
BAKER’S DAUGHTER
With locations in Ivy City, downtown and Chinatown, there are plenty of opportunities to sample the delicious breakfast and lunch items from the Baker’s Daughter. Like Chef Baker’s other venues, the menu changes depending on seasonal flavors — but you can count on goods like breakfast tacos, egg and cheese sandwiches, a sinfully fine grilled cheese with cheddar and gruyere melted on buttery brioche, avocado toast and other items guaranteed to make your day better. The sweet end of the menu is downright dreamy, featuring dulce de leche brownies, red velvet whoopie pies and s’mores rice crispy treats. 675 I St. NW, DC; 1201 K St. NW, DC; 1402 Okie St. NE, DC; bakersdaughterdc.com // @bakersdaughterdc
CMB AT HOME
CMB at Home is chef Matt Baker’s latest concept, designed to be enjoyed from the comfort of home. Each month, CMB at Home features family-style meals for two or more people for purchase, inspired by the same culinary influences that shape the menus at his other restaurants — and his dinner table at home. cmbcatering.com // @cmbathome
CONSERVATORY
For a rooftop dining experience in a grand urban garden, visit the Conservatory above Gravitas. The beautiful setting is only enhanced by the delicious food and drink offerings, which include a watermelon panzanella, grilled halloumi with a fig gastrique, chocolate chess pie and a knock-your-socks-off espresso martini with rum, oat milk and allspice dram liquor. 1401 Okie St. NE, DC; conservatorydc.com // @conservatory.dc
GRAVITAS
This epic fine dining Michelin-starred venue in Ivy City offers an exquisite dining experience, with both a full tasting menu and a plant-based tasting menu deserving of its accolades for creativity and seasonality. Dishes include green tomato gazpacho, ratatouille pave and coconut rice pudding with blueberry compote and poached raisins. In addition to the impressive tasting menus, the restaurant offers a special separate chef’s counter intimate dining experience, plus a less expensive three-course Taste of Gravitas menu every evening from 5-6 p.m. and all night at the bar. Guests can also enjoy regularly scheduled cooking demos from chef Baker and pastry chef Momaney. 1401 Okie St. NE, DC; gravitasdc.com // @gravitasdc
LORRAINE’S
This restaurant within a restaurant — named after Baker’s mother — offers a regularly changing 14-course tasting menu. Only 10 seats are available, with one seating on Thursdays and two on Fridays and Saturdays. Sample the truffle-topped artichoke soup, chef Baker’s mother’s favorite, which may be the creamiest and most decadent dish in town. The menu can be tweaked for some dietary restrictions, but vegetarians cannot be accommodated at this time. 1201 K St. NW, DC; michelesdc.com/lorraines // @micheles.dc
MICHELE’S
Michele’s pays homage to chef Baker’s late mother and features food from his childhood in Houston and his mother’s time in New Orleans, as well as her favorite dishes. The seafood-centric menu changes often, but you can count on treats like fresh oysters; buttery, parmesan-topped seasonal bread; local produce-inspired salads; and addictive truffle fries. The dessert menu includes dynamite dishes like bananas foster with vanilla bourbon ice cream, flourless chocolate cake and a lemon lavender tart. The cocktail scene is equally as tempting as the food, with drinks like the Yellow Brick Road, made with citron, clarified citrus, saffron, turmeric chai and pink salt. 1201 K St. NW, DC; michelesdc.com // @micheles.dc
FIRST PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT. Heirloom Tomato Salad. Chef Matt Baker at Gravitas. Dish from Conservatory. SECOND PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM. Former Conservatory cocktail. Dishes from Conservatory. THIRD PAGE. Drinks at Gravitas. Photos by John Rorapaugh.
26 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
EXPLORE YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD ONE WINE AT A TIME NOVEMBER 19, 2022 REGISTER AT DCFRAY.COM/EVENTS SHIRLINGTON | SHAW | NOMA + MORE
LATE-NIGHT PIZZA IN D.C. WORDS BY CHAD KINSMAN | PHOTOS BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS
When it comes to late-night pizza, follow your stomach, your cravings, your sense of here and now. They’ll lead you where you need to be.
IIIslice Of lifE
We’ve all been there in what Sinatra dubbed the “wee small hours.” When it’s so late it’s early and needs become simpler, but making decisions gets harder. What’s open? What sounds good? What’s close, fast and cheap? The answer to all the above is pizza.
While there’s never a bad time to eat pizza, there’s something about a late-night slice on the go. It usually won’t break the bank, and it fills you up without slowing you down — effective whether you’re headed home or further into the morning. You can often customize your slice using shakers of crushed red pepper, oregano and parmesan, and it’s almost imperative you grab a dozen thin napkins to protect yourself from rivulets of scalding, tangerine-colored grease.
This isn’t a top 10 list or a taxonomy or a review. Consider it an invitation to stay up, venture out, not overthink a meal or get caught up in reviews and hype. This is about the pizza you want — the pizza you need — when you’re burning that midnight oil.
Andy’s Pizza
Andy’s adds an upscale addition to D.C.’s late-night pizza scene. Open until 3 a.m. on Saturdays, the soundtrack — dance remixes of Madonna, Kesha, Katy Perry and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs — keeps the party going while the award-winning pizza delivers on all accounts. Various locations; eatandyspizza.com // @andyspizza
Duccini’s
Open as late as 4 a.m. on weekends, Duccini’s classics hit the spot. If you’re in the mood for something special, their menu also hosts “pizza delights:” slightly more complicated but equally delicious flavors. 1778 U St. NW, DC; duccinisdc.com // @duccinispizza
Jumbo Slice
18th Street Northwest is the beating, oversized heart of D.C.’s jumbo slice scene. Open as late as 3:30 a.m., ending — or pausing — a night out with a Pangaea-sized slice is a D.C. rite of passage. Eating that amount of cheese, crust and sauce from Jumbo Slice is nearly a full-body experience, requiring deft and constant contortions of hands and mouth. 2341 18th St. NW, DC; jumboslicepizzamart.com // @jumboslicedc
Manny & Olga’s
The OG of late night ’za. With outlets in Silver Spring, Petworth, Georgetown, H Street, Tenleytown, Capitol Hill and
elsewhere, you’re probably never more than 10 minutes from a Manny & Olga’s. Their 14th Street location is open so late that early morning commuters can stop by. Various locations; mannyandolgas.com // @mannyandolgas
Pizza Boli’s
Continue up 18th and you’ll find the classic Pizza Boli’s, open until 3 a.m. on weekends. They boast a secret sauce setting them apart from other late-night joints, and pizzas are customizable if you’re up to the challenge. Various locations; pizzabolis.com // @pizzabolis
Red Light
Further down 14th you’ll find one of the District’s first places devoted to the crispy, chewy, sauce-topped rectangular slab that is Detroit pizza. Open until 2 a.m. on weekends, Red Light only sells whole pies, an excuse to take or make friends. 1401 R St. NW, DC; redlightpizzabar.com // @redlightbardc
Slice & Pie
A new entry to late-night pizza, Slice and Pie sits at the intersection connecting U Street, Columbia Heights and Dupont, with Shaw and LeDroit Park a little farther afield. Open until 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday, they serve up delicious slices of New York- and Detroit-style pizza. Dipping sauces like ranch and marinara are worth the extra charge. 2221 14th St. NW, DC; sliceandpie.com // @eatsliceandpie
Sonny’s
Up Georgia Avenue, Sonny’s also serves the Motor City’s contribution to late-night pizza. Serving pizza by the slice or by the pie, there’s options for whatever group you find yourself in. 3120 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; sonnyspizzadc.com // @sonnyspizzadc
Wiseguy Pizza
Stepping into Wiseguy Pizza is an event, even more so on weekends when they’re open until 3 a.m. Crooners play overhead while all manners of gangsters, from Michael Corleone to John Gotti, look on. The pizza options — which include vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free selections — fill the case to the point of bursting. Among the most alluring flavors are paneer tikka, Korean chicken and garlic ricotta-based Whitestone. Various locations; wiseguypizza.com // @wiseguypizza
30 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
FIRST PAGE. JeweLie Anderson. THIS PAGE. Jumbo Slice Pizza.
A Walk in the Woods
WORDS BY NEVIN MARTELL | PHOTO BY SCOTT SUCHMAN
I am walking through the woods, but I can’t tell you where. Not because I don’t know; I most certainly do. But you can’t know.
That’s part of the deal I made with 56-year-old forager Tom Mueller, who is leading me and photographer Scott Suchman on a hunt for wild mushrooms. We are trudging up a forested hillside as bright mid-morning sunlight pierces through the green veil of leaves above. The air is damp, the dark brown earth tender with recent rain, but not muddy. Sounds of nature — birdsong, the chitter of warring squirrels — are occasionally interrupted by a faraway car honk or the drone of a passing jetliner. The slope is dotted with fallen trees and patches of scrubby underbrush.
If you’re wondering what Mueller looks like, sorry, I can’t tell you that either. I promised I wouldn’t describe him, and Suchman wouldn’t take any pictures of his face. The elusive forager doesn’t want people to know what he looks like or where he goes searching for wild edibles, mainly mushrooms, which he sells to some of D.C.’s most eminent restaurants, including Oyster Oyster, The Dabney, Centrolina and Tail Up Goat.
Suddenly, Mueller points. “This is the albino,” he says. Sidled up to a decaying log is a mushroom about the size of a large cauliflower. The cluster of rippling fan-shaped fungi, vibrant orange at the center with pure white edges, has the look of a coral mysteriously transplanted from a reef. Otherwise known as chicken of the woods, it’s highly prized by chefs for its meaty texture and faint chicken-ish flavor. Mueller gently cuts the mushroom at its base, carefully places it in a paper bag and slips his find into his backpack. Then we’re off back down the hill, chatting about his larger foraging journey.
Growing up in Fort Washington in Prince George’s County, Maryland, Mueller took long strolls through the forests with his father, who taught him to identify trees, a skill he still relies on. His love of wild fungi was ignited in the mid-1980s when a friend of his wife began working on a book about mushrooms, and he accompanied her on forays through Charles County in southern Maryland.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America and opening Pineapple Alley Catering in 1993, he joined the Mycological Association of Washington, D.C. to expand his knowledge. At first, he only went out looking for morels in the spring; he had downtime at work, and they are easy to identify.
Then in 2012, his friend Jeff Long — an elusive badass in the foraging world whose adventures have been documented in “Outside” magazine and elsewhere — took Mueller under his wing. The pair went looking mainly for chicken of the woods,
which Long sold to chef Cathal Armstrong for his erudite New American cuisine at Restaurant Eve. Later that same year, Mueller found a couple of major chanterelle sites, where he could pick 500 pounds of mushrooms a season, allowing him to go solo and establish his foraging business, Villa Fungi. His first customers were Frank Ruta — then at Palena and now heading up the kitchen at Annabelle — and Zaytinya (both are still clients).
We are deep in conversation when Mueller points to a clutch of chanterelle mushrooms blithely sprouting along the trail’s edge, their apricot orange caps splattered with mud and muck. I wonder how many people passed them by, not seeing them or ignorant of their culinary value. Plucking a handful, Mueller adds them to his backpack, and we set off again.
As we continue, he shares a simple mantra about succeeding as a forager: “You have to be willing to walk,” he says. “When you walk, you find stuff.”
Nonetheless, many times he has gone into the woods on a hunt only to come out hours later empty handed.
When mushrooms are in season, he’s usually out at 6:30 a.m. to forage for a few hours, often dropping local finds off at restaurants by 11 a.m. so they can be used for that evening’s dinner service. He sells anywhere from $5 to $1,500 worth of wild mushrooms a week. Morels are the gold standard, fetching $50 or more a pound. Porcinis are close behind at $40 a pound. Since selling his catering company in 2018, foraging is his sole source of income.
It’s a tough business, taking him far afield to Maine, the Jersey Shore and the Shenandoah, while putting 50,000 miles a year on his odometer. Climate change, development and pollution all threaten his livelihood in profound ways. He’s undeterred.
“You have to be willing to diversify, drive further and find new sites,” he says.
He pauses his answer.
“Tell me when you see it.”
I scan the greenery on either side, looking for a flash of color that could be a mushroom. For several steps, I see nothing. Then, as I peer more intently, I catch a glimpse of orange off to the right. It’s another chicken of the woods, this variety pale corn yellow along its edges. It’s radiant. We turn off the path like moths drawn to a flame.
Sample Tom Mueller’s mushrooms at a number of D.C. restaurants, including Oyster Oyster (@oysteroysterdc), The Dabney (@thedabneydc), Centrolina (@centrolinadc) and Tail Up Goat (@tailupgoat).
32 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022 EAT | FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Sip in
We rounded up nine watering holes around the District that may be as fashionable as you.
WORDS BY ALEXA KASNER
DRINK
Style
Boasting nearly 24 Michelin-starred restaurants, D.C. is home to some incredible food and beverage options. Locals are also fortunate not have to choose between excellent food and a stylish atmosphere. We are spotlighting bars and restaurants in our city that will have both your eyes and tastebuds thanking you. Whether you’re feeling chic and minimalist, cozy and moody or vibrant and daring, these places have you covered.
BARMINI
Adjacent to its Michelin-starred sister restaurant Minibar, this José Andrés concept is equal parts bar and learning center. Barmini is described as a cocktail lab, sleek and minimalist with an all-white interior. Zoomorphic seating options coupled with a wall of ceramic hands round out the space with a slight Mad Hatter’s tea party quality. 501 9th St. NW, DC; minibarbyjoseandres.com/barmini // @barminibyjose
EL SECRETO DE ROSITA
El Secreto de Rosita invites diners to spend their evenings sipping pisco sours in its wonderfully maximalist dining room. Lounge around on velvet chairs while taking in every exciting detail. The restaurant has a thing for unexpected pairings: sensual nude paintings cohabitate alongside portraits of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and droves of hanging plants outnumber ornate crystal chandeliers. 1624 U St. NW, DC; elsecretoderosita.com // @elsecretoderosita
THE GREEN ZONE
At this award-winning Middle Eastern cocktail bar, every aesthetic decision was made by owner Chris Francke with an intended story to tell. The Moorish and Arabesque light fixtures were inspired by Francke’s time in the Middle East. The tiled bar top is arguably the star of the show; Francke had the tiles imported from Morocco. The fan favorite, however, is the Johnnie Walker Black Label painting by Ashekman, a Beirut-based Arabic street art group. The painting is all too appropriate: according to the bar’s website, Walker is “the second currency of the Middle East.” 2226 18th St. NW, DC; thegreenzonedc.com // @thegreenzonedc
LAPIS
Walking into Lapis feels like coming home — or rather, what you wish your home looked like. Family-owned and run, it’s no wonder this popular Afghani bistro perfected the harmony between familial intimacy and elegance. Expect to enjoy your Michelin guide-recommended meal nestled amongst intricate wooden details and black and white Popal family portraits accented by the restaurant’s signature lapis lazuli blue. 1847 Columbia Rd. NW, DC; lapisdc.com // @lapisdc
MAKETTO
Inspired by his heritage and travels, chef and owner Erik Bruner-Yang designed Maketto’s restaurant and retail concept around a modern interpretation of East Asian night markets. Aesthetically minimalist, Maketto’s immediate wow factor is the staircase display of sneakers. Whether you’re stopping by for an Americano, a bowl of noodles or a fresh pair of kicks, Maketto is sure to serve you up in style. 1351 H St. NE, DC; maketto1351.com // @maketto1351
MAMA AYESHAS
A true feast for the eyes, Mama Ayesha’s sumptuous interior reflects the restaurant’s rich history. Glance up and feel transported by Moorish lamps and muqarnas, the honeycomblike architecture present on the ceilings of the Alhambra. Cozy up amongst the velvety salmon-colored booths and golden tapestries, contrasted against lush greenery and a running fountain. We can’t overlook the iconic mural on the building’s facade depicting Mama Ayesha herself surrounded by U.S. presidents. 1967 Calvert St. NW, DC; mamaayeshas.com // @mamaayeshas_dc
NO GOODBYES
Situated in Adams Morgan’s urban oasis The Line Hotel, it’s almost impossible not to feel like the most stylish version of yourself at No Goodbyes. Grab a seat on chic leather barstools under sophisticated brass light fixtures. Thanks to the hotel’s previous life as a church, you’ll have the rare opportunity to cap your night surrounded by stained glass and neoclassical architecture. 1770 Euclid St. NW, DC; thelinehotel.com // @nogoodbyes_dc
REVELER’S HOUR
Brought to you by the team behind the Michelin-starred Tail Up Goat, Reveler’s Hour boasts an unassuming yet elevated ambiance perfectly suited to its beloved wine list. Share bowls of delicious handmade pastas under the kind of lighting that encourages you to linger a while. The restrooms, wallpapered in cartoons by the James Beard award-winning artist and sommelier behind Fresh Cut Garden Hose, are the most whimsical stylistic choice. 1775 Columbia Rd. NW, DC; revelershour.com // @revelershour
TIGER FORK
This Chinese bistro is located in Shaw’s historic Blagden Alley. At Tiger Fork, guests enjoy contemporary takes on Hong Kong dishes beneath stylish lanterns and cascading strings of beads. Tiger Fork’s deep red hues set the tone for a glamorous night out; grab a drink at the bar and admire the intricate Chinese motifs overlaid on exposed brick walls fresco-style. 922 N St. NW, DC; tigerforkdc.com // @tigerforkdc
RETAIL SPOTLIGHT: LAIIK
While we may be in the midst of what many have deemed a “retail apocalypse,” there's still incredible brick-and-mortar spots that remind us of the charming intimacy of in-person sales. To honor the magic of retail, we are spotlighting Greek leather goods brand Laiik. Tucked away in a sun-soaked brownstone in Dupont Circle, this family-owned Greek leather goods shop might be the most beautiful retail spot in D.C. The boutique was formerly a private residence that dates back to the late 19th century, built in the Romanesque revival style typical of the era’s elegant city residences. If you’re lucky enough to catch the store’s owner Niko on a slow day, he’ll make you an espresso freddo as you browse to your heart’s content in true Mediterranean fashion. 1710 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; laiik.com // @lovelaiik
Tiger Fork. Photo by Scott Suchman.
35DISTRICT FRAY |
WORDS BY BRANDON WETHERBEE
MUSIC
A CONVERSATION WITH JEFF ROSENSTOCK LIFE IS BUT A (SKA) DREAM
One of the most important voices in the punk/ garage/ska/whatever you want to call guitar-driven music not on a major label scene is a 40-year-old with two decades of releases and touring under his belt. Jeff Rosenstock did not expect to be here, at least at this level. Rosenstock has been making music and touring behind that music, doing it the “right way.” After nearly a decade in the dreamy ska landscape, he began releasing solo albums, gaining more acclaim and fans with each subsequent release. We spoke with the frontman before his upcoming show at The Anthem on October 5.
District Fray: How does it feel being 40? Jeff Rosenstock: Fine. It feels weird. I’ve tried to just not think about it. You turn 30, you turn 20. All of them are like, “Huh, that’s a milestone.” But I also feel like [for] our generation, it’s not really. I’m not on the path anybody else I know my age is on. It just feels different than [what I thought of] people turning 40 when I was a kid, but maybe that’s because I just turned 40 and I’m kidding myself.
I don’t think you are kidding yourself. You’ve been self-reflecting for the duration of your career, for more than 20 years. You’ve been critiquing the norms of what a 40-year-old or 30-year-old, should be doing. And now you’re here and still doing it. And it’s not sad. I’m lucky. I’m lucky it’s not sad. I had a couple of things bounce my way in my 30s, which is not usually how that goes. I was like, “Oh, I guess I’m doing this. Okay. Cool.” You know, after Bomb stopped I was like, “Oh, that was fun.” [Ed.’s note: Rosenstock’s previous band, Bomb the Music Industry!, were together from 2004 to 2014.] I didn’t expect a second wave to play music. I just figured I’d make demos and put them out.
How does it feel to be back like normal-ish? Just great. Every show we’ve played has just been insane. It’s so nice to not just play, but to also be around people again, those who are in our world and community. It’s a good vibe. And that’s nice to see after being isolated. At the same time, because we are a touring band, we have to keep things pretty safe. We’re trying to be considerate of people coming to shows who are high-risk. We’re all wearing masks inside while we’re on tour. When we’re in like, Kansas or somewhere and nobody’s been wearing a mask for years it’s like, “Oh, hey. No, I’m in a touring band. I can’t get it. If I get it, everything gets ruined.” When we get past it, it’s going to be cool. Like when we can play shows and get in the crowd again and not be like, “Oh, is this going to cost us cancelling our Midwest shows because we did something stupid?” I’m looking forward to doing stupid shit again.
Who were the artists you looked up to when you were just starting out?
Growing up was a weird cross between pop stuff
on MTV, like Paula Abdul, Madonna and Bobby Brown, then Anthrax, Metallica and Green Day. I kind of found my way into punk, specifically Mike Park and Asian Man Records, Fugazi and NOFX putting out their own things, doing it all themselves made me realize you could do this on a big level. Throughout life you find things you really like. I remember the first time I heard Bikini Kill. It changed everything for me. I also felt like that the first time I got into “If You’re Feeling Sinister” by Belle and Sebastian and Kamasi Washington’s “The Epic”— they kind of broke my brain. There’s shit along the way that keeps breaking me.
“USA” was maybe the best song of 2018. Does that song mean anything different to you now, four years later?
Oh, thank you. I still remember touring after the election — being in the Midwest, looking at people wondering, “What are they thinking?” You know what I mean? Like, how are we at this place right now? Where racism, xenophobia and violence are mainstream, acceptable points of view. And it’s still the same driving around now. We got rolled up on by some old lady at a gas station in the middle of nowhere. She’s like, “Let’s go, Brandon!” And we’re just like, “Get out of here.”
How do you think it feels for me? My name is Brandon. Oh boy. My mom’s name is Karen.
How does Karen feel about this whole thing? She’s not happy her name has been co-opted.
You’re touring everywhere, visiting every 100, 200 miles or so. Are you more hopeful?
I think you feel that in places. We felt this so much in this last tour specifically. I think about the show we played in Great Falls, Montana, which is a very, very small town. Not that many people came, but everybody who did had the best energy and I was so happy. It’s nice to be around each other.
When you started, you were a teenager. Did you think you’d still be doing this at this age? I thought I would still be making music. I think I will, in some capacity, until I’m dead and gone, baby. It’s what I’m doing whether or not anybody’s here. I didn’t intend this to happen at this level and I’m just like, along for the ride.
Jeff Rosenstock will perform at The Anthem on October 5 as a special guest for The Gaslight Anthem. Listen to his newest release, “Ska Dream,” on most streaming platforms. Not Amazon Music. His music isn’t on Amazon.
greatmovieideas.tumblr.com // @jeffrosenstock
Photo by Christine Mackie.
37DISTRICT FRAY |
MUSIC
THE JEFF ROSENSTOCK BEGINNER’S GUIDE
Rosenstock has had a Neil Young or Jeff Tweedy-like career. There’s a lot of stuff. A lot. It may be difficult to know where to break in. You can go to the beginning with his bands The Arrogant Sons of Bitches and Bomb the Music Industry! or start with a side project (Antarctigo Vespucci) or composing work (“Craig of the Creek”). Rather than attempt to be a completist, we’re suggesting beginning with the newest and working your way backwards. Here are six standout tracks from the six Jeff Rosenstock full-length albums. We did not include stuff from EPs or live albums or singles or compilations or guest appearances or the “2020 DUMP” because that’s just too much, too soon.
“THE INTERNET IS EVERYWHERE” FROM “I LOOK LIKE SHIT” (2012)
A very good lesson to remember when scrolling through social media feeds.
“I’M SERIOUS, I’M SORRY” FROM “WE COOL?” (2015)
There’s so much beauty and understanding and anger and fear and hope in a song about one of the worst possible experiences.
“....WHILE YOU’RE ALIVE” FROM “WORRY” (2016)
Gimme that introspective Rosenstock, baby! There’s still a ton of sing-a-long screaming and shouting in this under two-minute track, but the lyrics are on par with folks like Nick Drake and Elliott Smith with way less of the misery.
“USA” FROM “POST-” (2018)
Rosenstock doesn’t have many tracks longer than four minutes. He uses the most of the 7-and-a-half minutes of “USA.” A little Springsteen circa “Nebraska,” a little Trail of Dream, a little Neil Young with Crazy Horse, it’s an outlier in the catalog and contains most everything great about the artist.
“N O D R E A M” FROM “NO DREAM” (2020)
Written and recorded before the pandemic and summer of 2020, this May 2020 release became a prescient song about the rest of the year.
“P I C K I T U P” FROM “SKA DREAM” (2021)
The ska version of “f a m e” from “No Dream” is actually more powerful with a little more keyboard and up strokes.
38 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
t he Next Gen of
style SetteRs taking Over tHe DistRict
INTERVIEWS COMPILED BY AVIVA BECHKY
D.C.’s got style. With everything from cute streetwear to tailored suits, plenty of people turn heads just walking down city streets. But who’s making their clothing, helping them decide what looks good and dreaming up the latest in fashion? It’s the designers of the city, the tailors, the entrepreneurs. Meet 14 of the must-know figures in fashion from the DMV.
Roquois. Photo by @theinterstellarstudio.
Roquois
Can you tell me about your own style?
I’m not really into name brands and things like that. I’m going to wear whatever I like that looks good and I feel good in.
Since you also do cosplay, how do you go about creating those looks?
I always create those looks based on what I’m comfortable with. For example, my Powerline cosplay that became really popular was just my version of it. Powerline is a male character and is a musician. I’m also a musician and love being on stage. So let me create a cosplay and have it look like I would want it to if I were on stage. So, I paired it with some thigh-high boots and made it this kind of cute, formfitting unitard. And then it went viral.
You’re also a singer-songwriter. What inspires that aspect of your work?
Inspirations would be everyday life. Things I’ve gone through, things my friends have gone through. Sometimes I just create stories and things I write music about, even if I haven’t experienced it myself. Music is essentially storytelling. Music is also very creative and imaginative. So, I’m able to really create any idea I have.
Anything else?
I want people to understand I’m a jack of all trades. I’ve been working to become a master of all of them. I’ve been blessed to walk in the things I enjoy and that I’m good at. And no matter how different they seem I’ve always found a way to blend them together. I want other people to understand it doesn’t matter how crazy your interests are. You can make things happen for yourself.
mystudiocouture.com // @mystudiocouture; lnk.bio/roquois // @roquois
Frank Huynh
Fashion designer at Lê Tâm
You began as a self-taught designer. How did you get started? What were your early designs like?
My first models were a stuffed monkey and teddy bear. I learned the basics from watching my mom and aunties over the years who knew how to sew after working at alterations shops or curtain production factories. My first designs were awful. They were patchwork vests and dresses barely held together with uneven hand stitching. Even though they weren’t the most couture designs, it was enough to make me think, ‘Hm, if I can make clothing for stuffed animals, why can’t I do it for people?’
How did getting a degree in costume design then affect your work? Deciding to pursue a minor in costume design was the best thing that could’ve happened to my design career. Through the classes, I learned how to properly flat patterns and drape my designs. I learned all the various hand stitches and techniques needed to finish garments, how to fit and alter garments to perfectly form to a body and also about the various clothing silhouettes throughout history.
On your website, you say you infuse clothing with aspects of your cultural heritage. What does that look like in practice?
I’m a proud first-generation Vietnamese American, so I try to subtly use silhouettes or fabrics you would find in Vietnam, but in a modern way. For example, I’ve re-interpreted the áo dài, the traditional Vietnamese national garment usually consisting of a form-fitting silk tunic with two side slits and pants worn underneath, a countless number of times. In one collection, I made the áo dài floor length and moved the slit to the center back to keep the shape but eliminate the need for trousers underneath. In another collection, I made an áo dài with silk dupioni to give it a more structured look, but had it fall above the knee and placed a full silk chiffon skirt underneath instead. Traditional Vietnamese garments have changed
Interviews have been edited for length and clarity.
Creative director + event producer at Studio|Couture
CULTURE
over time, and I would like to be part of the group of designers helping with the continual evolution in this next century.
byletam.com // @fashionsbyletam
Lauren gay
Retail director at Swatchroom/Common Thread + business developer at Higher Glyphs Content Group
Your job at Higher Glyphs is pretty complex. Can you give me an overview?
I help businesses with the experience they want to [create] through innovative ideas or concepts. So, if a business wants to do a pop-up, have a special dinner for clients or customers or just offer an online experience, I help with those concepts.
For most people approaching fashion, especially from a consumer perspective, what don’t they know about what you’re considering on the other end?
Accessibility for all people and body types. So, I think the one thing I look for when it comes to certain events or designers is if they have something for every shape and body type. If you’re curating or shopping, you make sure there’s something for everybody.
What steps do you take to be sure you have accessible clothing for everyone?
A lot of shopping. It really is doing a lot of research and taking the time to gain product knowledge and testing — actually buying and wearing the clothes and living in them. So, I really try to be like, "Yeah, I can put my name on this."
Anything else?
I get to see stuff on runways and understand items will eventually make it into a retail store. Someone designing something — especially smaller businesses — will eventually have a fashion show, then a pop- up, then a store and that’s the end game for some. That’s where I could come in. I get to see and understand the full circle.
higherglyphs.com // @higherglyphscontent; @littlehustler83
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LEFT. Frank Huynh. Photo courtesy of subject. RIGHT. Lauren Gay. Photo by Deveney Williams.
41
FRAY |
LaShawn Kenley
Founder, CEO + designer at Sun Gods
How do you go about handcrafting clothes, from design to finished project?
Sun Gods is a slow fashion business where our designs are made in house by our own team of seamstresses. We either sketch or drape the look of the design, then use [the mockup] to draw or cut out the pattern and sew the fabric together to achieve the final look. This then becomes the prototype for making the design in different sizes.
How do you ensure your clothes are sustainable and ethically sourced?
Prior to the pandemic, I would physically go to various countries within the Black and brown diaspora and visit artisans and souks creating and selling fabric to ensure its authenticity. You just have to touch and feel everything. Throughout the pandemic we made it work. I still look back like wow, what a way to pivot and not miss a beat during the height of it all.
What inspired you to start Sun Gods? What motivates you to keep going and grow the business?
I started Sun Gods for two reasons: to build a legacy for my family and community, and have a fashion brand that speaks to my community within the bohemian space. I love stores such as Free People and Anthropologie. Such beautiful brands, but I didn’t see myself reflected in these stores when growing up. The color palettes were always very light (using pastel hues) and that doesn’t look the best on brown skin tones. I love mixing Black culture and the diaspora with free-flowing, bohemian-inspired designs. This is what created Sun Gods. Seeing the continuous support from our tribe we lovingly call “people of the sun” also keeps me motivated because everyone is so invested and wants to see us do great. It’s the genuine love for the brand that keeps me going.
sungodsofficial.com // @sungodsofficial
Andrew NowelL
Menswear designer at Andrew Nowell Menswear
How do you transform an idea in your head into a sketch and then into a real piece of clothing? For me it starts with the fabric. At the start of each collection, I select a group of fabrics to work with. The designs I sketch are based on the feel, characteristics, performance and drape of the fabric; not every fabric is suitable for every design. From there I just imagine what I can shape the fabric into; it’s kind of like soft sculpture and engineering in a sense. I’m actually engineering material made of fibers for the human form. It has to be functional, move with the body, be comfortable and aesthetically pleasing to the client.
TOP. LaShawn Kenley. Photo by Tawny Chatmon. BOTTOM. Andrew Nowell. Photo by Leonard Poteat. RIGHT. Kevin Nmah. Photo by Claude Langley.
Your Instagram describes your outfits as a combination of sportswear, urban style and Savile Row. What elements do you pull from each? Why do you think they fit together?
Sportswear for the ease and comfort, urban style for the swag and Savile Row for the rigors of the tailoring process.
What “aha” moments or favorite memories have you had while working in fashion and design?
Seeing my collection on BET’s “Rip the Runway” two years in a row. I saw my name on TV and 5 million other people saw it, too. People think designers are living this wonderful life of constant partying with celebrities, models and waking up at 3 p.m. Actually, it’s a lot of hard work, anxiety and stress. We’re always on the hunt for that elusive “new next thing.” There are so many people to satisfy and then you have the press, customers, bloggers and social media to contend with. It’s always that moment right before the collection goes out when a designer is at their most vulnerable. What you’ve spent the last six months working on is out on a runway for 15 minutes being scrutinized by strangers. Those 15 minutes will determine the future of your company
and if there will ever be a follow-up show or collection. Fortunately for me, the collection was well-received by the top execs at BET and the viewership.
@andrewnowell_menswear
Kevin Nmah
Founder of Meet the Curator
Tell us about the slogan “Get dat D.O.E.”
“Get dat D.O.E.” encompasses one of the founding principles of Meet The Curator (MTC). Vision. Belief. Perseverance. Autonomy. Discipline. I believe it is with these principles one can curate their own life.
How did you come up with the slogan, and how do you incorporate it into your own life?
I’ve listened to music my whole life, specifically hip-hop and rap. As long as I can remember, I can’t tell you how many times I heard some iteration of “get money,” “I love the dough” or "C.R.E.A.M." (cash rules everything around me). Double entendres are foundational to rap and are thus embedded in the fabric of MTC.
Our name has a double meaning. “Get dat D.O.E.” is a play on “get paid.”
“Discipline over everything” is a mantra to remind myself and others that no matter what or how you feel physically, mentally or emotionally, the only thing that will get you through is discipline.
What do you love most about inspirational apparel?
Inspirational apparel is so gratifying due to its simplicity and timelessness. There are so many inspirational apparel brands, and not too many phrases are original. However, the way you present your message on a particular product with color and typeface [makes] it stand out and lends itself to inspiring to others.
What one piece of advice do you have for up-and-coming D.C. entrepreneurs?
Understand this one truth: Maybe it’ll work out, maybe it won’t. Either way, it shouldn’t stop you from trying.
blog.meetthecurator.co // @meetthecurator1984; @curateyourlife
CULTURE
Rich Rocket
Creative director + design lead at Vintage Thrivals
What are some of your favorite looks to wear in front of an audience?
I love to wear things that are loud enough to be felt by the back row. Comfort is important as well and silhouette makes all the difference, but I have to make sure whatever I am wearing informs the audience of what they are about to get into — and that it is a time they won’t soon forget.
How do you curate the selection at Vintage Thrivals?
First, I am always looking for pieces with unique shapes. Silhouettes and frames that may have thrived during a certain time or stand out always catch my eye and work best with my brush. Second, vibrance, a great color or unique wash of denim will always be priority. Lastly, potential. I usually can eyeball an article of clothing and see what it can be and where it should go.
Vintage Thrivals combines the ’80s, ’90s and today. What elements of each time period do you include in your outfits?
From the ’80s, I draw the audacity. People were unafraid to try new shapes, celebrate androgyny and use colors. From the ’90s, I find the edge to be definitive with my look, lean into a concept and go all the way. And from present times I always consider how my look can absorb trends without losing sight of what keeps me original.
How do podcasts, graphic design, fashion and on-stage hosting allow you to be creative in different ways? They all play into creating the “team of me.” All factors tie into keeping the show on the road, and each skill set sharpens the others to keep me wellrounded in what I create, what I present and who I am.
iamrichrocket.co/vintage-thrivals // @vintagethrivals; @iamrichrocket // @richrocketmedia
Marie Gloss
Director of content strategy + development at Hyde Closet
Imagine a future with a really sustainable fashion industry. What does that look like? What role does Hyde play in getting there? We at Hyde believe the root of sustainability starts with retailer decisions on inventory — what and how much to make — so we reduce waste. Hyde tackles the problem two ways: by leveraging our proprietary data analytics to instruct brands on customer demand, allowing companies to make better inventory decisions; and helping them rent or sell over-produced items so products don’t end up in landfills. We incentivize our customers to wear more but buy less. We drive more uses per garment and per user.
How do you want to see men’s fashion evolve?
Two words: more accessible. In our minds, whether you look at perfect models in GQ or during New York Fashion Week, we find fashion has drifted into exclusivity over the last century or so. This makes it harder for the average person to access it.
What Hyde fashion events should we look forward to this fall? We are excited about partnering with diplomacy and fashion to launch the inaugural Fashion Gala in D.C. on October 12. The event is the brainchild of our partner and advisor, Indira Gumarova, who advocates for sustainable fashion, educates emerging diplomats and designers about the role of fashion in diplomacy and promotes designers. It’s a first of its kind black-tie affair that brings together designers from 40 countries who have one thing in common: they’ve styled a First Lady and Gentleman in the past. And of course, after the Hyde Annual Designer Pitch this summer, we’re excited to partner with District Fray again for a new event in November.
LEFT. Rich Rocket. Photo by Andre Sturidvant. TOP RIGHT. Marie Gloss. Photo By Andrew J. Williams III. BOTTOM RIGHT. Joy Kingsley-Ibeh. Photo by Drew Xeron.
44 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
Hyde puts a lot of effort into elevating newer designers. Who are some up-and-coming DMV designers you’re really excited about?
Generation Typo: incredible streetwear with an unmissable social message. Debonair Club: ex-military-owned incredible design and winner of Hyde Annual Designer Pitch. State and Liberty: excellent clothing with a local presence. Knot Standard: custom suits that are socially sustainable and leverage unparalleled technology. Alpha Industries: eclectic design. Ledbury: a solid workhorse of a shirt that cuts across so many professional and social occasions.
hydecloset.com // @hydecloset
Joy Kingsley-Ibeh
CEO + founder of Kingsley Model + Talent Management
How did you grow your business into a sleek professional company?
I grew my business by being consistent and not giving up. I knew right away what the brand meant to me and the feeling and professionalism I wanted people to have when they experienced the brand. I stayed the course with the level of white-glove service I provided, guided by my values.
What first got you excited about fashion? What keeps you excited about fashion now? My mom and dad were always so fashionable. Through them, I understood what it meant to look good and take care of myself, no matter the circumstances. But seeing Naomi Campbell on the cover of Vogue magazine made me feel high fashion was attainable for me as a young Black girl. It goes back to representation. If you see it, you can believe it and if you can believe it, you can be it. The thing that keeps me excited about fashion now is watching so many designers and changemakers of color popping up and holding big roles in the fashion industry — from Edward Enninful to Virgil Abloh, Rihanna, Pyer Moss and legends like Dapper Dan, who I recently worked with on a shoot in NYC during fashion week.
What values do you prioritize? How do you put them into practice at Kingsley Management?
Honesty, transparency and love. I remember what it was like to work for people or in spaces that didn’t share these values and I was miserable. So, I set out to create an environment I wanted — whether I was an employee, model or client.
kingsleymanagement.com + stylebykingsley.com // @joykingsleyibeh, @stylebykingsley + @kingsleymodels
Nikki Billie Jean
Tell us about All Things Ankara. All Things Ankara is a multi-faceted fashion and entertainment brand dedicated to African ankara print fashion, consisting of an online blog publication, e-commerce retail shop with innovative ankara designs, e-commerce retail marketplace for ankara print designers worldwide and special events celebrating ankara print
fashion culture. We are a community for everyone that supports, wears and buys ankara print fashion.
What do you want people to take away from the platform? It is not limited to only Black people. Many people ask me questions like, “Is it ok for non-Black people to wear ankara clothing?” My answer is, “Yes, it is ok.” When it comes to cultural
Founder of Nikki Billie Jean + All Things Ankara
CULTURE
appropriation, non-Black people just need to be respectful. I understand why Black people get upset when non-Black people wear ankara print clothing. But just because someone non-Black is wearing ankara print clothing does not automatically mean they are culturally appropriating.
All Things Ankara is a pretty broad brand with an online publication, shop, marketplace and events. How do you manage all the different aspects?
I take it one day at a time. But I have come to learn that you can do anything, but you can’t. So, I am currently working on building a team. Many entrepreneurs like myself tend to wear many hats. And it’s important to have a team to spread out the workload to have a strong brand.
What do you think the cutting-edge in fashion looks like right now?
In the ankara print fashion industry, the type of clothing that will always cut edge will be ankara print gowns.
nikkibilliejean.com // @nikkibilliejean; allthingsankara.com // @allthingsankara
Bryant Senghor
What was the process of creating Ankaa Universe like?
I’ve always been a fan of aeronautics, astronomy and NASA as a whole. I’m inspired by space, sci-fi, retrofuturism and robots. All of those combined with my love of urban streetwear, Ankaa Universe was created. I wanted to blend aeronautics and attires used in space travel with urban wear, specifically with shoes. “Ankaa” is the brightest star in the Phoenix constellation and “universe” is the community we serve, which is anyone and everyone. The mission for Ankaa Universe is to not only create urban spacewear, but to eventually do philanthropic work and provide scholarships and grants for underserved youth matriculating to college.
How would you describe your personal style?
My personal style is vintage urban (specifically ’80s and ’90s), techwear and retrofuturism. I’m largely inspired by my parents; they wore labels such as Cross Colours, Coogi, Vangrack, Starter and African American College Alliance.
What advice do you have for new D.C. entrepreneurs?
Don’t be afraid to go against the grain
and step outside of the box when it comes to your creativity or idea and be patient with yourself during the process. There will be times that will be trying but remain faithful during the process. Keep going.
ankaauniverse.com // @ankaauniverse; s3nghormedia.com // @s3nghor
Founder + chief design officer at Ankaa Universe
LEFT. Nikki Billie Jean. Photo by Mesus Studios. RIGHT. Bryant Senghor. Photo by Michael Baker.
47DISTRICT FRAY |
Tee Wright
Fashion stylist, expert + coach at Fashion At Ms. Tee
What exactly does it mean to be an image consultant?
As an image consultant, you are responsible for creating the personal or business personality and image for another person. It’s such an important job. Not only do I help people create their signature style through fashion; I teach how to properly dress for body type, build confidence and how to show up as an authentic, amazing person.
What’s a cute trend people should hop on now?
Elevated athletic wear. I’m not big on trends, but every now and then one will come along that does it for me. The days of having to be uncomfortable and cute are over. If you can be cute, fashionable and comfortable at the same time, why wouldn’t you hop on the trend? I can definitely see this having a long life span. For me, it’s not going anywhere.
What’s one misconception people have about fashion?
I’m sure I’ll get some push back on this one, but I would say the misconception of wearing what you want. If you like it, then wear it. I’m so against that. My brand is built on teaching women how to dress for their body style and then adding their personal touch. I strongly believe once you’ve done that, you’ve mastered fashion.
How would you describe the creative energy of D.C.?
Underrated-suppressed. D.C. is overflowing with amazing creatives, but I feel we don’t get our due justice because it’s D.C. and “home of politics.”
I’m so blessed I’ve been able to tap into the D.C. creative space and have had the opportunity to work with and absorb the energy of so many awe-inspiring creatives.
ms-tee.com // @fashionatmstee
Dennis Cruz
Founder of New Chptr
What does the behind-the-scenes operations of New Chptr look like?
Behind-the-scenes for New Chptr we’re forecasting and brainstorming ideas for the next season with the team. We’re finding ways to better market the brand in our area and other cities, collecting data from e-commerce and [strategizing] how to better execute rollouts for upcoming releases.
What are the fundamental elements of contemporary streetwear you include in all of your clothes?
Making products timeless. We want you to wear our product knowing you're getting something that fits and is focused on quality and minimal design.
What steps do you take to make your clothing sustainable? Every season, we make sure we are sourcing the right weight and fabrics
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for our clothes that are sustainable and wearable for our customers. Quality is one of our main focuses because it shows how much you care about your brand and how to separate yourself from competitors.
What tips do you have for people hoping to create a stylish, casual look? A nice camp shirt, a pair of black trousers or slim fit denim with a pair of loafers or New Balance shoes.
newchptr.com // @newchptr
Casey Rowe
When you are custom making clothes, how do you work with a client to take their vision and turn it into a real outfit?
I first educate them on everything that goes into the suit. There’s a lot of history that goes into what we do, as far as the construction and fabric goes. So, for me, this is an educational opportunity for someone to come in. They can really learn about all of the different specifications.
What are some of the favorite looks you’ve made?
I love working with grooms. I get to sit down and analyze a color palette, figure out the linens or floral arrangements and where the venue is. And then I get to take all of that information and turn it into a garment. You get to play around with different colored fabrics for the vest, trousers and jacket and build up a look I think is really unique.
Do you have favorite memories associated with helping people plan their weddings?
I was at a wedding about a month ago in Alexandria, Virginia, for a gentleman I made a suit for. He had 13 groomsmen, and they didn’t know how to tie bow ties. So, I came out and taught all the group to tie their bow ties and make sure they all looked put together. And then I focused on the groom. You could just tell he felt amazing because he didn’t have to worry about it.
christopherschafer.com // @christopherschafer
Managing partner at Christopher Schafer Clothier
LEFT. Tee Wright. Photo by Phelan Marc. TOP RIGHT. Dennis Cruz. Photo by Rike Omoleye. BOTTOM RIGHT. Casey Rowe. Photo by Kaitlin Newman.
Follow on Instagram @durdoux
BEHIND THE SCENES. Check out behind-the-scenes moments from our cover shoot at Jumbo Slice in Adams Morgan on September 7 with photographer Scott Suchman and cover models Alex Shin and JeweLie Anderson. We closed down the iconic late-night eatery for a few hours to turn it into a studio space where models could change, get hair and makeup touch-ups, and of course, snack on some pizza. Photos by Andrew J. Williams III.
51DISTRICT FRAY |
5 BODY-POSITIVE TO KNOW IN THE DISTRICT INFLUENCERS
WORDS BY MAYRA MEJIA
The impact influencer culture has on society is unquestionable. And the traditional look has definitely changed, thanks to the rising popularity of body-positive content creators. I remember discovering plus-size fashion bloggers on Blogger.com and being blown away. For the first time, I saw people with bodies that looked like mine portrayed confident and fashionable. This was my gateway to learning to love my body just as it was. It’s acessible, yet fun and aspirational: truly the best of both worlds. Check out some of D.C.’s most noteworthy bodypositive influencers and learn about the highs and lows that come with the gig — and what makes D.C. so unique for their content.
Aqila Benjamin
How + why you became an influencer
I got started as an influencer while working with Fashion to Figure, a plus-size clothing store at Prince George’s Plaza Mall. I started as a keyholder and became a traveling trainer. I helped develop their stores around the East Coast and was a stylist, as well. It made me passionate about fashion. I was also so infatuated with the body-positive community coming together and celebrating who we are authentically.
Your day job
I am a brand strategist full-time. I currently work for myself through my brand Because You Can: Creative Consulting & Coaching. I work in social media marketing for WangaWoman, which is co-founded by Caroline Wanga, Essence CEO. I am also the creator of The Strong Friend Meetup, a safe space expo promoting mental health and Black holistic wellness.
Your style + aesthetic
I don’t have one set aesthetic; I like to push the envelope. I believe you can wear whatever you want. So, when it comes to just me, I make sure whatever I wear aligns with who I am. It’s not like I try not to mimic other people. If I get style inspiration, then I get style inspiration. Outside of that, my style is who I am.
Why D.C. is such an interesting place to call home
D.C. is where I grew up. I was here before D.C. was gentrified and I know it looks different. Whether it’s the “rough” part of D.C. or the new built-up version, D.C. is interesting because it has so much culture — the art, music, people and vibes. It has original roots. D.C. has always been lit, no matter the era.
Aqila Benjamin. Photo courtesy of subject.
53DISTRICT FRAY |
CULTURE
Best + worst thing about being a body-positive influencer
For me, being a body-positive influencer and a plus-size fashion influencer are two different things. [For a while], I went back and forth because I felt I needed to choose one or the other. I decided to strike a balance, so sometimes my posts are just about my body and some posts are strictly fashion.
Sometimes I don’t want to mention I’m plus-size because you can physically see I am. We don’t necessarily have to mention we’re plus-size or make it about our bodies if we want to post our fly ass ’fit. The downside with influencing is I’ve received a lot of hate comments. There’s been plenty of times when it choked me up or hurt my feelings, but this is the life I chose.
Your favorite place in D.C.
The museums. My favorite is the American History Museum. I cried like a baby when they had Michelle Obama’s dress there with “The First Ladies” exhibit.
Follow Benjamin on Instagram @rootsoffatima and @thefullersideofthings. Check out The Strong Friend Meetup on Instagram @thestrongfriendmeetup.
Frank Grimsley
How + why you became an influencer
I don’t like to label myself as an influencer. I’m a content creator who has influence because my goal is to impact people’s lives, not necessarily sell a product. I want to show brands I can bring creative visuals to life and create content that inspires people to strive for greatness. I started authentically sharing my journey on Instagram in 2016 and people loved how I curated fashion moments. Then I began to tell stories in my captions to help people heal through vulnerability or humor. The rest is history.
Your day job
I recently quit my “day job” to pursue this lifestyle as a fulltime creative entrepreneur. I’m giving myself a year to make this a full-on lifestyle that is not only profitable, but fulfilling.
Your style + aesthetic
My style is forever changing. Right now, I would call it “elevated basics:” simple pieces of clothing with subtle pops through shoes or accessories. As a fat man, the options are limited, but I pride myself on finding ways to make it work. I often have to source women’s clothing due to lack of representation of plus-size men in fashion. I pride myself in one day bridginh the gap between men’s and women’s fashion.
Why D.C. is such an interesting place to call home
I love living in the DMV because you get a little bit of everything. There’s only a select number of places one can go to get that “thing” and I’m glad to experience that life every day.
Best + worst thing about being a body-positive influencer
I’m excited people look at me and see confidence. I don’t always feel that way. Every day isn’t a good day. Big, small, short or tall, nobody wakes up every single day and feels confident. I love that I’ve curated an authentic audience of people cheering for me, whether I feel confident in my body or not.
Your favorite place in D.C.
I’m a creature of habit, but I’ve dedicated this year to exploring more. My favorite place for aesthetics and drinks is Yours Truly Hotel. Also, I’m a hookah lover (as my followers on social media know) and I love going around to various hookah bars in the city. Right now, I’m loving Focus Social Club.
Follow Grimsley @franknthecity on all platforms. You can also catch him on season four of “The Circle” on Netflix.
Kelly-Lynne Russell Guy
How + why you became an influencer
In 2013, when Macklemore’s “Thrift Shop” came out, friends sent me the video and said, “This reminds me of you and your thrifting!” It was the golden days of blogging and thrifting, so I figured it made sense to pour all my know-how from thrifting into a style blog. The next year I won The Baltimore Sun’s award for Best Fashion Blog. From there, I kept posting every once in a while, but only started taking it seriously once I connected with the plus-size fashion community here in D.C.
Your day job
I work as a social media manager for a healthcare association. Our members are infection preventionists which means they prevent infections in places like long-term care centers, hospitals and schools — even on movie and TV sets. I love I get to share ways for people to keep themselves safe.
Your style + aesthetic
I know this is the age of “aesthetics” and “-cores,” but I don’t fit squarely within one. I’d describe what I generally gravitate toward as “macaron grandma Barbiecore.” A sprinkle of French romantic, a bit “Little House on the Prairie,” a little princess-y and colorful. If it’s pink or floral, I’m on board.
Why D.C. is such an interesting place to call home
My husband and I bought a home in Arlington in October 2020. I love how tight-knit my community is in North Arlington. We have access to beautiful trails and parks, farmers’ markets, restaurants, coffee shops and so much more. I also know [most of] my neighbors’ names and chat with them often. D.C. is a beautiful city; there is absolutely nothing like driving along the Potomac over the monuments at sunset and watching the city turn golden pink. Absolute magic.
Best + worst thing about being a body-positive influencer
The difference it makes in people’s lives. I have people write to me saying, “I never would have worn this, but you inspired me to try it!” I think that’s so special. Larger people can’t always draw a lot of style inspiration from the community; they certainly don’t have a variety of styles to inspire them. It’s amazing to be part of helping people find their own personal styles. For many of us, our body dictates what we wear and even how we portray ourselves. There have always been unwritten rules about what we can and cannot wear, what makes us worthy or unworthy, what is flattering or unflattering. But life is too short to not enjoy. Some people go through life fearing being fat more than anything else. That’s the world and society we live in. There is a certain freedom in knowing your body, accepting your fat, living without style rules and wearing what makes you feel like yourself.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP. Photos by Nikayla Scott Photography, Crystale of EYEImagery, Arielle Lewis Studios + Nikayla Scott.
54 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
Kelly-Lynne Russell Guy.
Frank Grimsley. Danielle Sauter.
Joy Moreland.
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Your favorite place in D.C.
The National Gallery of Art has been my happy place for many years. It may seem cliche to choose a museum in the city of museums, but what an amazing resource we have here. The West building courtyards are so peaceful and serene. I’m a lifelong artist and admirer of art; being around fine art really grounds me. Plus, there has never been a time I haven’t felt my body is more beautiful than seeing so many bodies as art.
Follow Guy on all platforms @thelowlowstyle. Read her blog “The Low Low Style” at thelowlowstyle.com.
Joy Moreland
How + why you became an influencer
I got into influencing because of fashion. I love how prints, patterns and colors make me look. I love to express my outer personality as whimsical, fun, strong and lively, from what I wear to when I am speaking. Becoming an influencer has been a great journey. I [love being] an inspiration for so many just being my authentic self.
Your day job
I am an influencer, talk show host and elementary educator full-time.
Your style + aesthetic
My style is fun and open. I love colors that bring an openness of laughter, positivity and fun. I am not one to shy away from the crayon box of fashion.
Why D.C. is such an interesting place to call home
It is a world in and of itself. The world operates out of this little yet huge place and calling D.C. home is a dream. I am glad to call it home because I can explore with little to no money. It is my canvas for photography and no other place has yet to duplicate it. I have met many transplant friends. Also, the great brunches.
Best + worst thing about being a body-positive influencer
I am my authentic self. I am the true definition of loving yourself and do not care what others think. I wear what I want to show no matter what the “nay-sayers” say, they will never influence how I live. The downside is words can affect you, but you have to maintain a positive attitude to stay strong. Many people just do not like plus-size individuals, i.e. the clothing and beauty industries. Clothes are made for plus-size people, but not with plus people in mind. But I choose to stay positive and continue to pray.
Your favorite place in D.C.
My favorite place in D.C. is Busboys and Poets. The food is so delicious and they cater to everyone’s needs. It is a great place to go because I have a mixture of friends who are vegan and pescatarian.
Follow Moreland on Instagram @enJOYCurves and @CoffeewithJOY_.
Danielle Sauter
How + why you became an influencer
I started Blonde in the District in 2014 after leaving a job that put me in a bad place creatively and emotionally. One of the ways I built my confidence back up was by leaning into style and wearing things that made me feel good. As I was searching for a new job, I took the extra time to create BITD and get my groove back creatively. I wanted to inspire others to look at style as a way to fuel confidence and esteem. There is no better feeling than wearing something that makes you feel beautiful and confident.
Your day job
I’m an IT government contractor, in addition to creating content for Blonde in the District (BITD). During all other hours, it’s all BITD.
Your style + aesthetic
My style is whimsical and fun, yet glamorous and chic. I think the two can exist together. There is a balance between my two style sides depending on my mood or what I’m currently inspired by (I’m also a Gemini so that may explain a lot). I’m drawn to color (pink is my signature) and I adore wearing accessories to really show off and express my character. I’d rather stand out than fit in and I think my style reflects that.
Why D.C. is such an interesting place to call home
I think D.C. has two sides. There is the “Washington, D.C.” side which is the politics and monuments — everything outsiders or tourists interpret as D.C. And then there is the “D.C.” side which is full of culture, community, artists, local businesses and shops, and more. I love changing people’s minds who think D.C. is only for politicians and monuments. We are so much more than that.
Best + worst thing about being a body-positive influencer
Inspiring others to think differently — whether that’s accepting yourself completely as you are, or becoming more accepting of others as they are. There is a downside that comes with body positivity and being so outspoken on social media. It can, unfortunately, come with a lot of bias or judgment. But, at the end of the day, I remind myself why I started: To inspire others to feel good about themselves and embrace their personal style. Style and beauty truly have no size. Everyone is worthy of beauty and confidence no matter age, size, shape or gender.
Your favorite place in D.C.
The National Gallery of Art (NGA). As a creator, I am deeply inspired by art and conversations around art. No matter how many times I’ve been to NGA, there is always something I didn’t notice or see before — or maybe I’ll interpret something familiar in a new way. It’s a place that makes me feel peaceful and calm, yet energized creatively.
Follow Sauter on Instagram @blonde_inthedistrict and check out her website blondeinthedistrict.com.
56 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
FALL
F A S H I O
Finding Your Style Groove
Fashionista and Couture Circle Executive Director Baille Benemelis shares her top tips for reinventing your style with confidence and flair, just in time for fall.
WORDS + PHOTOS BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III
FORECAST
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“If you haven’t worn it in over a year, there’s a reason,” says Baille Benemelis, executive director of Couture Circle.
According to the fashionista, it’s one of several telltale signs you might need to refresh your wardrobe — and there’s no better moment to reevaluate your style than the start of a new season.
Autumn is a time to renew your love affair with wool, thickpatterned wraps and waxed all-weather jackets. For many, it’s a reminder of how jaded they’ve become with their closets.
Over time, motivation to dress well is replaced with frustration and creative stagnation. Many struggle knowing what to do when the excitement of going on a first date, stepping into an interview for your dream job or feeling reenergized by a new season is gone.
Benemelis believes it’s critical to get to the root of your style slump and shake things up.
“Maybe your clothes don’t fit anymore or you’ve been wearing all black every day and you’ve been doing it for too long. Maybe you’ve gone through a major life event and just need a change. [Identifying] whatever “that” is — that’s really the first step.”
Remaking and owning your style requires pinpointing and investigating the external and internal forces influencing your fashion habits. And as Benemelis articulates, the intuition that it’s time to try something new shouldn’t be ignored.
“You should never feel you don’t have something to wear,” Benemelis declares.
Getting out of your rut is about recapturing your confidence — the confidence to bring your best self to any occasion with your own unique flair.
So, you’ve nailed how you’ve lost that loving feeling. Resist the urge to declare a five-alarm fashion emergency; instead, Benemelis suggests taking a measured approach: a closet audit.
It’s an opportunity to jettison things that no longer fit, have seen their best days — the shrunken, tattered, ill-fitting regulars in your rotation — or take up valuable real estate in your closet, potentially overshadowing pieces that still fit and you enjoy wearing.
Though, an intensive purge isn’t a catchall solution.
“There’s an alternative: maybe you need to switch things up because the pieces you have are great but you’ve been wearing the same combination of clothes over and over, rather than shopping your closet and putting new combinations together.”
According to Benemelis, building your look around a favorite pair of shoes, which she describes as dressing “from the ground up,” or hunting for new accessories can reinvigorate your closet.
“Maybe the best place to start if you’re looking to switch things up is going shopping for new accessories that make a
Baille Benemelis sporting a few fall looks.
statement or have really unique details — something that feels special.”
The other suggestion is to embrace seasonal trends that complement your closet while focusing on making the trends your own.
“Pick one to three trends each season — something that’s fun, that’s exciting, that you can take a risk with,” Benemelis suggests. “And then weave [them] into your personal style.”
Regardless of which direction you go, one easy way to organize yourself is by making a Pinterest board.
“As you’re getting into this new way of dressing, you can look back and remember things you want to try,” Benemelis says, adding that Instagram and TikTok are resources for locating fashion bloggers who fit your style ethos, whether it’s sustainability, vintage or luxury.
Benemelis also suggests you can stay loyal to brands you love while exploring boutique brands — as long as the pieces reflect your new visual and stylistic vantage point. Additionally, fast fashion has its place as a means to enhance, not replace, staple items.
When asked what’s trending this fall, Benemelis notes the return of stilettos — which she hopes are here to stay — and bold colors are setting the pace for women’s fall fashion.
“Grass green, lime green, orange, hot pink — those really bright colors are a big trend right now,” Benemelis says. “If you want to be bold, mix them all up together. Do some color blocking, choose two to three and put them together.”
Benemelis offers the latter option for those looking to really make a statement. For the less avante-garde, pairing bolder colors with white and black or using brighter accessories (headbands, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings) might be a better way to ease into the season.
The most important goal, she insists, is to have fun and remember “being on trend” does not make it “necessary.” It’s better to invest in timeless investment pieces like a good trench coat, blazer or motorcycle jacket.
“You have to be true to your style. I would never say buy something because this is a trend. If you don’t think it’s something that fits who you are and you can’t incorporate it into your wardrobe and wear it over and over again, don’t buy it.”
While the fall is the opportune time to shake up your wardrobe, constantly evolving is key.
“You can get inspiration from anything. That’s what really keeps me excited and evolving my style all the time; I am consistently looking for [inspiration] everywhere.”
Follow Benemelis on Instagram @baillekg. Check out Couture Circle at couturecircle.org or on Instagram @couture_circle.
59DISTRICT FRAY | CULTURE
A GLOBAL AFFAIR
INSIDE 1984V’S NEW COLLECTION
WORDS + PHOTO BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III
Since the birth of globalization, the world has become smaller and smaller. Today, we don’t need to travel to the ends of the earth to see how clashing cultures, customs and traditions shape our perspectives and sensibilities.
Nowhere is this better reflected than in the world of fashion, particularly vintage. Like many art forms, style reflects the mixing and mingling of lifestyles and heritages.
Artists like vintage fashion purveyor Tiara Chameleon are modern explorers and connoisseurs in every sense. They constantly investigate and internalize their environment, coming away creatively awakened.
This is the essence of Chameleon’s latest collection, Global Affair, which officially launched on August 22 and is presented by her brand 1984V. The collection will be released in several rounds, the first mainly featuring women’s styles. Future rounds will explore men’s and possibly children’s fashion.
The genesis of the collection began nearly 8,000 miles from the D.C. in South Africa, where Chameleon spent 12 days this past summer immersing herself in the culture, embracing stepping out of her comfort zone.
“When I got back, I knew I wanted to do a collection,” Chameleon says. “I didn’t know the name [or context]. I wanted it to organically hit me.”
Chameleon, searching for spontaneous genius, dove into a weeklong process of finding and curating pieces. But something was different this time. She was drawn to what she describes as distinctive global pieces: Indian tunics, Japanese kimonos, Chinese dresses and African garbs.
The spectrum of bold colors, prints and textures speak to fashion’s universal language, which Chameleon frames as celebration and representation of love, unity, differences, tradition, style and culture.
“My juxtaposition within this collection is taking traditional clothing and making it modernized, funky and stylish,” Chameleon says.
She emphasized modernizing can occur without appropriating and should include an appreciation for diversity.
Through Global Affair, Chameleon pushes against empty consumption that plagues the fashion industry, while paying homage to her roots. Chameleon’s heritage is foundational to the collection’s ethos; African, Japanese, Polish and Mexican is all represented in her bloodline — a true family of global citizens.
Through her collection, Chameleon aims to empower consumers with knowledge, making terms like kaftan, kurti, dashiki and ankara commonplace. She hopes to cultivate an intelligence for correctly identifying traditional styles that major fashion houses often replicate and mass produce.
Vintage brands like 1984V can fill the gap that exists within major labels by showing patrons how to wear, appreciate and enjoy learning about new styles. Shopping vintage allows for unique, one-of-a-kind, built-to-last pieces people can make their own.
“People perish for lack of knowledge,” Chameleon says. “Fashion is a language that needs to be thoroughly and clearly communicated. I want to educate you on what ‘is’ so when you are out shopping and want to find things and celebrate other cultures, you’ll be knowledgeable and approach with confidence.”
Through 1984V, Chameleon elevates attitudes about fashion and cultural messages we too often ignore. Global Affair is a vessel for unlearning bad consumption habits and breaking down cultural barriers.
“I love celebrating all cultures,” Chameleon says. “My love has no color. I love all people. I’m here for everyone. I don’t just think that, feel that and live that; I show it with my clothing. Clothing is character. Style is a personality and my fashions tell a story. My story is I love cultures and I’m leading by example with my brand and this collection.”
To learn more about the 1984V vintage brand, visit 1984v.co and follow them on Instagram @1984vconceptstore.
61DISTRICT FRAY | CULTURE
WILD GARDENIA BOUTIQUE EMBRACES
A ‘60S MINDSET BY CELEBRATING FREE THINKING AND INCLUSIVITY. WE RECOGNIZE THAT WOMEN OF ALL SHAPES AND SIZES DESERVE ACCESS TO FUN FASHION.
Our boutique curates quality pieces that are strong in character, exuberant, and complement many different body shapes.
We help women dress in a way that reflects their independent thinking, bolsters their self-confidence, and allows women of different sizes to embrace dressing as artistic expression.
Wild Gardenia boutique is inclusive, conscious and bold. Check out our clothes and accessories today.
Inclusive. Conscious. Bold. online only at wildgardeniaboutique.com | wild_gardenia_boutique
INTERVIEWS COMPILED BY ABI NEWHOUSE
Designers in D.C. work with home in mind — whether home is in the city or a faraway place that adds extra texture and color to their products. Each maker featured here is unique, but a common theme persists: a focus on cultural appreciation, sustainability and naturalness. We tell their stories and dive into details of each business below, from cocktail syrups to minimalist earrings to vintage repurposed maps.
Painting by Kristin Gaudio Endsley. Photo by Chloe Brover Photography.
M A DE IN D.C. 10 Local Makers Who Should Be On Your Radar
Geographer Envisions Art in Vintage Maps
Candice Luebbering, owner and designer of All Mapped Out, pores through old and vintage maps and turns them into coasters, helping every customer bring place into their space.
What's the story of All Mapped Out? All Mapped Out started 10 years ago as a creative outlet after graduate school (M.S. and Ph.D — in geography, of course). I wanted to get away from computer clicking and physically craft something. I had a growing pile of vintage maps and atlases from antique malls, thrift stores and garage sales, and I began repurposing them into coasters. It was a hobby business done off and on while I worked and studied, but within the last year I decided to change course and make All Mapped Out my primary pursuit, creating geography- and cartographyinspired home decor. I get so much joy from customers connecting with something I’ve made and feel honored every time my work becomes a special gift shared between friends or family. I think I was chasing prestige before but now I’m crafting fulfillment one Mapped item at a time.
Why is having a sense of place important in our homes? Your home is your place and you get to create its identity for however long or short you’re there. You don’t need locationbased décor to create your home’s sense of place, but many people are passionate about the places they’ve been and like to celebrate them in their spaces. I don’t like to ask people what
they do; I like to ask about their “wheres” — the places they’ve lived, worked, studied, traveled or one day hope to go. It fuels conversations and connections. Adding touches of place to interior design reflects personal geographies and helps make the space uniquely yours, showing your roots, path and maybe even your projection. (This is a terrible map pun but authentic to my nerdiness.)
There can be a lot of tension between creating for fun and business. How do you stay inspired and excited while finding this balance?
In my creation process, I get to pore over old maps, exploring places throughout the world and time. That is already a fun activity, but it’s when a customer identifies with the place and shares their stories with me that my work comes alive. I get to travel the world through my customers’ experiences as they teach me about locations I may never get to see in person. It’s why I try to make map coasters of everywhere, from populated Paris to sparse Svalbard.
Anything else you want readers to understand about your designs?
All my coasters repurpose actual maps from the 1890s to present day — no copies or reproductions are used — so unless I have multiple copies of a source, the coasters are one-of-akind with the map origin handwritten on the back.
All Mapped Out: allmappedout.etsy.com // @all_mapped_out
CULTURE
Zero-Waste Jeweler Draws Inspiration From the Earth
Hatice Rosato, owner of Definition Studio, sells natural and sustainable products with a focus on zero waste. Each piece is simple and colorful, curated and created with Rosato’s hometown of Istanbul in mind. Definition Studio’s storefront in NoMa will open in the next few months.
Your jewelry designs are so lovely — very minimal and earthy. What inspires you?
So many different things can be a source of inspiration for me. My first jewelry collection was inspired by the idea of the “little black dress.” I called it little black jewelry. I wanted to create a piece of jewelry that was like your favorite little black dress; you could just throw it on when everything else fails. My biggest inspiration, though, is mother nature. I respect and admire nature so much I only want to work with materials that are good for the planet and people at the same time.
What's the status on the other products on your website? Can we expect to see them anytime soon?
Linens will be in full production once we have more space for all our collections. We will be producing clothing, as well as table wares and home textiles. The website is always a work in progress as I have been prioritizing working with local shops and selling directly in person through events and festivals. I think major website updates will come after the holiday season as we will be doing a few different pop-ups throughout DMV.
How do you put your focus on sustainability and zero waste into practice?
It is very important for me to create a brand that reflects my personal values. I choose materials that are natural, petrochemical free and sustainable. Linen is a great example: It is the most sustainable fabric, requires no pesticides, is very durable and perfectly biodegradable all at the same time. Zero waste is the future; that is why I added vintage leather collections to my products lines. Instead of producing new jackets, I decided sourcing vintage or dead stock is better for the environment. I’m now working on partnering with a leather studio that will re-dye and recover jackets with very minimal defections or color variations. My jewelry collections are also great examples of the same vision: sustainable materials, small batch, handmade and very minimal packaging and branding. We also use scrap materials whenever we can — we make scrunchies from linen scraps and earrings from leather scraps. We are also learning to naturally dye fabrics with earth pigments and botanicals.
Is there anything else you'd like readers to know about Definition Studio?
Definition Studio will have a new studio and shop space soon in Union Market District. We will be sharing the space with one of our favorite local brands, Charix Shoes. Charix is also based in Istanbul and D.C., and together we are hoping to create a concept focused on sustainable slow fashion with major Mediterranean vibes.
Definition Studio: definitionstudiodc.com // @definitionstudio; @haticerosato
LEFT. D.C. coasters. Photo by Candice Luebbering.
RIGHT. Definition Studio rings and leather jacket. Photo by Ana Isabel Photography.
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ArtTepuy Proves Latin America Is Color
Tamara Barnabei heads ArtTepuy, a shop within La Cosecha that curates and showcases art and wares made by women in many Latin countries. Earlier this year, Barnabei helped our very own editorin-chief Monica Alford get replacement earrings from one of her vendors, as the pair came with a loose backing. That’s the kind of care and attention Barnabei offers each guest and vendor.
What’s the story behind ArtTepuy?
I’m from Venezuela, though my mom and dad are immigrants from Italy. When I first tell people I’m from Venezuela, they talk about the bad things [about the country]. I needed to teach people that Venezuela is more than politics, and the way I could do this is through art. I started working with different Venezuelan artists from the middle of the Amazonas, communities that don’t have support from anybody. I bring all these pieces to the United States to show the beautiful things about Venezuela and to support artists in my country. When I started with La Cosecha, they asked me to expand my reach, so I got in contact with different artists from Mexico, Guatemala and Colombia as well.
How do you find your vendors?
They have these government-formed groups that support women makers. I get to work directly with the artists, so I get to know their beautiful stories — beautiful, sad stories. I get involved with each of them and we learn together, and I teach them things. I have one lady in Mexico selling to the United States for the first time. And I remember I taught her how to wrap the pieces to put in the bags because she [wanted] to get it right.
What is one product you’re really proud of?
In Guatemala right now, I’m working with a lady who is my hero. She makes bags out of 97% recycled plastic from the ocean. She taught women in poverty how to make these bags, how to weave everything, and now they work for her.
How do you know a product is perfect for ArtTepuy? Each piece needs to have a story. I’m trying to have products for everybody; it’s important to not be too expensive, but still, I will never undersell a vendor. It’s their art, their wares, their many hours of work. The story behind the product is important. Latin America is color; it’s beautiful.
ArtTepuy: 1280 4th St. NE, DC; arttepuy.com // @arttepuydc
Kristin Gaudio Endsley Is Guided By Water
Painter and ceramicist Kristin Gaudio Endsley creates ethereal artworks, splitting her time between D.C. and Brooklyn. You can visit her studio in Georgetown by appointment only.
What's the story behind deciding to pursue painting and ceramics full time?
As a child, I was always drawn to painting and drawing — anything art related. When it was time to decide my major at college, I went for something with more practicality: fashion design and illustration. I worked in fashion and taught for a bit, but it never felt right. I remember saying, “I am a teacher,” and feeling surprised to say that aloud. When I moved to London with my husband, I was able to witness successful working artists. That and the rise of social media helped me take the leap into painting full time. Ceramics came a couple years later during an artist residency in Sydney, Australia.
LEFT. ArtTepuy jewelry. Photo by Abi Newhouse. RIGHT. Kristin painting. Photo courtesy of subject.
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I love how versatile your work is. What's your process for deciding the tone of each piece?
Thank you. I do like to play a lot in my practice. As I work, I fall into a meditative process. I let go of planning and overthinking and just let my movements and the water take hold. Everything around me falls away and I am focused on the work and where it is going; the tone comes from this process. Most of my pieces have an ethereal or calming feel. The colors can change the tone. I am often drawn to colors you see in nature — whether it is a sunset, a winter forest or an ocean horizon.
How does your connection with water influence your work?
Water is the thread through all my different series. I allow the water to move freely on the canvas or use slight control measures as the water moves. At times it feels like my partner
in the painting. I speak to the water. I am surprised by the water. I am both frustrated by the water and in love with the water.
Anything else you want readers to understand about your work?
In my new series, I am breaking away from the controlled nature of geometric shapes. I am really opening up to the intuitive process, leaving it up to the critical dynamic of canvas, paint and water; I am using spontaneous, yet methodical dripping and pooling techniques to compose soft-edge and mutable images with a foundation in both my personal and the collective consciousness. I look forward to sharing this new series.
Kristin Gaudio Endsley: 1027 33rd St. NW, DC; kristingaudioendsley.com // @kristingaudioendsley
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Candlemaker Creates Fragrances That Evoke Emotion
Aisha Cort, founder and maker at VELA NEGRA, channels her Cuban and Guyanese heritage into vegan black wax candles made with home, tradition and the environment in mind.
What's the story behind VELA NEGRA?
I learned candle making as a child from my Cuban grandmother but picked it back up in recent years as a stressreducing outlet (plus, I was sick of picking over candle scraps at T.J. Maxx and Marshalls). I wanted VELA NEGRA to create a mindful, environmentally-conscious, luxurious addition to home. Each candle is individually hand-poured using 100% vegan coconut soy wax and ethically-sourced wooden wicks, fragrance and dye to provide a clean burn with the highest quality ingredients. We pour our candles in black because it absorbs and dispels negative energies, provides new beginnings and clarity.
What's the process like in choosing scents and deciding when a new scent is ready?
I go for fragrances that create a feeling. For Ashé, I tried six different fragrances until I felt the smell communicated what I wanted. The same thing with Morena and Azúcar, or even Coquí. That whole season you drink coquito, what does that feel like? You have to make sure the candle burns right and the fragrance works, but also get to it so when you smell it, it hits the frontal cortex which stores all your memories.
Why was it important for you to honor your heritage in this endeavor?
VELA NEGRA is a continuation and reimagination of tradition, a way to honor my heritage and push a new narrative of ownership and commerce forward. I am the child of immigrants; my mother and my father hail from Cuba and Guyana, respectively. Each came to this country, started from scratch and stayed connected to their roots while pushing for something greater. I wouldn't be here or have accomplished even a portion of what I've done so far without their guidance and support.
I really am a mere reflection of them. I also come from a family of makers: I learned candle making from my grandmother and how to make soaps and butters from my mother.
I learned how to make coconut oil from scratch from my dad and my aunt.
Anything else you want readers to understand about VELA NEGRA?
VELA NEGRA is a deeply personal project without being alienating, as the fragrances and their stories hit on universal truths. You don’t have to be Cuban or Guyanese for the fragrances
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to connect with you. For example, one of our bestsellers is Ashé — the word Ashé, in essence, is a blessing and calming spirit that Afro Cuban religion understands as something every being possesses. When the fragrance hits you, you feel that spirit enveloping you. Additionally, the creation process for VELA NEGRA candles is not an autopilot process: I make these candles with my hands. Every step is very intentional.
VELA NEGRA: thevelanegra.com // @thevelanegra
Cocktail Connoisseur Features Only the Best
Tory Pratt, founder of Pratt Standard Cocktail Company, is dedicated to quality cocktail syrups made pre-Prohibition style: no high-fructose corn syrup or harmful additives included.
What's the story of Pratt Standard? My parents instilled a sharp palate and passion for entertaining at a young age; when I was old enough to drink, though, I couldn't find any cocktail ingredients worthy of mixing with good booze. Everyone deserves access to premium drinks, and you shouldn't have to go to a fancy bar to get one. In 2014, I set out to create the best tasting tonic syrup in the truest pre-Prohibition style; 47 iterations later, Pratt Standard was born. My syrups are versatile and classic and are perfect for home bartenders looking to up their game. I still develop every single recipe myself, and I’m on a mission to equip and inspire drinkers of all kinds to share in the joy of cocktailing. I have taught more than 20,000 home bartenders and more than 1,000 bartenders how to make cocktails. I’ve also designed 25 bar programs from D.C. to Ohio.
What made you focus on pre-Prohibition-style cocktail syrups?
Growing up around an amazing food family, I found most food products get adulterated over time. Producers find cheaper ingredients to replace real ones and cut costs, and this leads to lower quality. Cocktails followed this same trajectory. They went from being made by a bartender with dedication and skill before Prohibition to drinks loaded with high fructose corn syrup and synthetic additives. The skill was lost, and cocktails were made cheaper. So, we make mixes with a pre-Prohibition mentality: high quality, well-sourced ingredients and minimal preservatives designed to make your cocktailing easy and delicious.
What is your favorite syrup and why?
Picking a favorite syrup for me is like choosing a favorite child. I can’t pick one. But I go through phases of what I like drinking. Recently, I’ve been enjoying our Earl Grey vanilla syrup in an old- fashioned variation with a lemon peel garnish. But it’s about to be fall, so I’m guaranteed to make a lot of penicillin cocktails with our True Ginger and True Rich simple syrups.
Anything else you want readers to understand about Pratt Standard?
Pratt Standard is all about equipping and inspiring people to make great cocktails easy. As part of this, we do a lot of online education as well as in-person cocktail classes. If anyone is interested in getting into the craft of cocktailing, we’re here to help and build their educational cocktail journey.
Pratt Standard: prattstandard.com // @prattstandard; @torypratt
LEFT. Vela Negra candles. Photo by Cuban Soul Pics + Yosvany Ortega. RIGHT. Pratt Standard cocktail syrup. Photo by Katelyn Perry.
69DISTRICT FRAY |
Hadiya Williams Is All About Experimentation
Hadiya Williams, owner and designer of Black Pepper Paperie, hand-makes every jewelry and houseware item in her shop, letting design feel like an intuitive practice that holds true to her West African roots.
What's the story of Black Pepper Paperie?
I didn’t truly consider myself an artist until maybe early 2017, despite getting my BFA in graphic design many years prior. In 2017, I designed stationery and day-of materials for a wedding, and I designed collateral and helped with event planning for a nonprofit event. The response to both experiences solidified
my desire to create in a different way. I felt like I crossed a personal threshold in my career, and I knew I had to focus my time and energy on more creative projects. Black Pepper Paperie was born out of that shift. The name was inspired by food, Thanksgiving, seasoning and Black culture. I wanted to highlight the “flavor” my art and designs add to your event or life. At that time, I was more focused on stationery and event design, working primarily with paper. But I soon experimented with ceramics and clay. I started making jewelry, small dishes, things I could manage. I began sharing my work on Instagram, and the rest is history.
When and how did you know you found your voice through design? When I stopped doing client work and started fully creating as a visual artist. My graphic design work had its own fingerprint and was impactful, but my current work is all about experimenting, having fun and doing what I want. After 20 years designing for others, it is very liberating to create solely from my perspective.
Your work focuses on cultural memory, history and ritual. What's the design process like for these themes?
I draw inspiration from the influence West African art and design had on early 20th century design and aesthetics. It connects the dots of who I am as a Black woman in the United States and within the African diaspora. The more my creative practice matures, the more I realize my work is influenced by a love of historic things. This includes objects, creative practices, art, fashion and lineage as it relates to the diaspora and how we are all connected through space, geography and time. This foundation allows me to create intuitively. I usually start making and enjoy (or loathe) what comes through. I tried the traditional wholesale model and realized I preferred to enjoy the process and make the way I want, so every piece is one-of-a-kind.
LEFT. Black Pepper Paperie wares. Photo by Hadiya Williams. RIGHT. Kicheko earrings. Photo by Anne Kim.
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What's your favorite piece you've created and why? Because my work is one long experiment, I am always attaching myself to what’s in the moment. I love it all.
Black Pepper Paperie: blackpepperpaperie.com // @blackpepperpaperieco; @hadiyawilliams
Social Impact Jewelry Brand Gives Back
Sarah Bayot, creator of Kicheko Goods, creates unexpected and beautiful earrings, combining different mediums to achieve a truly special product. Focused on giving back, Kicheko donates a portion of all proceeds to different education organizations in the United States.
What's the story behind Kicheko?
I started Kicheko in 2014, inspired by a lot of entrepreneurial energy around me. I was very into doing creative projects and crafts and was committed to volunteer work in eastern Congo. This combination gave me enough courage to quit my job and go full time with Kicheko, which is currently a jewelry brand of earrings and necklaces with mixed materials that follow a minimalist, geometric silhouette. Kicheko is a Swahili word that describes smiling and laughter. I'm Filipino American, and when I tell people Kicheko is a Swahili word I get curious looks because I don't look like I'm from a Swahilispeaking country. When I explain the meaning, I try to give it the respect it deserves by sharing a glimpse into a special time that inspired my own journey.
How is Kicheko a social impact brand? After graduating with my master’s in international development, I had the opportunity to travel with a volunteer team to the Congo. We became close with the community, which started fundraising and construction of a primary school called Mango Tree School. I loved the ethos and the wider impact it would have for the community at large, so I built a scholarship program into Kicheko's business model. From 20152019, a portion of proceeds from all sales went to a scholarship fund for Mango Tree School. Over those years, we helped 110 students attend school. Since 2020, I continued the thread of giving toward educationfocused initiatives, donating to U.S.-based organizations like Equal Justice Initiative, Mamatoto
Village, The Conscious Kid, DC Youth Orchestra, Catalogue for Philanthropy and Moseka Action Project.
What do you find fulfilling about design? I have always felt drawn toward contrast, excited by the challenge of putting opposing objects together in some way that works. I enjoy the process of creating shapes and balance with beads, metal and pearls. Growing up, my mom would find me in my room repurposing found objects, creating collages and tearing out pages from magazines to build my look book. I still have that look book — it's on a shelf in my Kicheko studio. And there's still the exhilaration of finishing a piece on the workbench and watching a customer’s pleased reaction.
Anything else you want readers to understand about Kicheko?
Kicheko is in evolution right now. The last two years have been hard on me, and I realized this year I was burned out and my wants had changed. I took some time to realign, and I am happy to share I recently took a full-time position with The Nature Conservancy, which means Kicheko is now my part-time side hustle. I am still a maker. But I think slowing Kicheko down and allowing Kicheko to evolve will be a worthwhile time.
Kicheko Goods: 716 Monroe St. Unit 3, NE, DC; kichekogoods.com // @kichekogoods; @sarahbayot
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Interior Design Studio Shines a Spotlight on African Art and Artists
Nasozi Kakembo, founder of xN Studio, designs and curates interior decorations inspired by the convergence of East and West. The studio sells products and offers interior design services, focusing on making client spaces feel sacred. Some of her work is featured at Salt & Sundry and Nubian Hueman.
What's the story behind xN Studio?
xN Studio is a multi-disciplinary design company I founded in 2011 in Brooklyn and Kampala, Uganda. It is a design bridge between my East African heritage and my American upbringing, which allows me to weave my studies in architecture, art history and urban planning into an independent career. I was born in Silver Spring to an American mother who lived in Germany for 20 years, and an immigrant Ugandan father. The biggest [focus] growing up in the D.C. area was on my career; diversity and culture were part of the everyday, not a separate thing we spectated on. I was always immersed in worlds that reflected my own and didn’t. There were no “others.”
In what ways do your international human rights and social justice work contribute to your products?
Connecting my business to social change was a key element of the business model from day one. My career and educational background were in philanthropy and international human rights. While I loved architecture, it wasn’t the right tool to address what I cared about, like access to clean water and quality education. Working in the social impact space for close to a decade, I collected and reflected on best (and worst) practices and devised a way to leverage a business model for social change.
How do you decide which products to carry through your shop?
I decide what to sell based on what speaks to me. I have also always had eclectic taste, so I try to pick things I personally like. And I find it really helpful to get feedback and ideas from customers and social media followers. I also recently returned from a five-country trip in Africa for my upcoming book on artisans and home decor. It is an understatement (and perhaps somewhat cliche, but true) that Africa is the source, and from it, artistic inspiration abounds. It’s sometimes overwhelming — it’s everywhere. Whether I’m seeing an artisan creation for
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the first time or noticing a new feature at my decadesold family home for the first time, these influences eventually find their way into my product assortment.
Anything else you want readers to understand about xN Studio?
xN Studio’s central mission is to use traditional arts and culture as a channel for historical storytelling and pride. The home accents I design and my interior design projects are an expression of this pride. The brand is helping tell and reframe stories of traditional African arts and artists (because these stories have been historically misrepresented or undervalued). As a daughter of both America and Uganda, it is my honor and privilege to be an ambassador in this exchange.
xN Studio: xnstudio.com // @xnstudio_
Custom Jeweler Celebrates Every Part of Life
Mallory Shelter, founder of Shelter, creates and designs custom jewelry for any occasion. The shop, located in Union Market, also carries clothes, wedding pieces and natural objects sourced from artists around the country.
What's the story behind Shelter?
I opened Shelter in 2018 after realizing that D.C. lacked a true independent jewelry boutique. There were so many designers on my radar and nowhere to find them locally. I also wanted to offer custom design and engagement ring buying services that felt low pressure and explanatory. I heard from a lot of customers it felt very overwhelming to find a true one-of-akind piece and I knew there was a void in the market here. Today, we carry nearly 30 independent brands, focusing primarily on jewelry but also featuring accessories and small giftable items.
What is your design process like?
It really depends on the type of piece. If I'm working on a custom design, I like to chat with the client first to really understand what they’re looking for and what their lifestyle is like. The customer may want something vintage-inspired but pick a very geometric or modern piece — so we strike a balance
between desires and what we’re working around. If it’s an in-house piece, we typically design around the stones; they’re such a beautiful, magical and prominent part of a ring, so they usually give small design cues based on their color, shape and size.
How do you decide which designers to carry in your shop?
It’s a delicate dance to bring in new designers. We need to make sure it’s appealing to our shoppers, both from a price and style perspective. And it can’t be too similar to other pieces we carry in the shop. We have to pass on a lot of brands that have stunning designs but simply don’t work in the space at any given time, which is one of the hardest parts of the job.
Anything else you want readers to understand about Shelter?
Many people think we only do custom design for engagement and wedding pieces, but we also do heirloom resets and pieces to memorialize special occasions (and so much more).
Shelter: 1258 5th St. NE, DC; shopshelter.com // @shopshelter; @malloryshelterjewelry
LEFT. Bata bedroom pillow. Photo courtesy of subject. RIGHT. Custom ring by Shelter. Photo by Laura Metzler Photography.
73DISTRICT FRAY |
THE TRUE STORY OF ROCKER
TINA TURNER DEBUTS AT NATIONAL THEATRE
WORDS BY KEITH LORIA
With a song catalog that includes hits such as “What’s Love Got to Do With It,” “Proud Mary,” “Private Dancer” and “River Deep — Mountain High,” Tina Turner is one of the most successful women rockers of all time.
But things weren’t always easy for the legendary singer. Turner’s story is also shaped by an unstable family life and many societal injustices women of color continue to face today.
Her inspiring story was turned into the Broadway musical “Tina — The Tina Turner Musical,” currently on tour and making a stop at The National Theatre from October 4 to October 23.
The show includes all the hit songs you would expect, but also delves deep into Turner’s abusive relationship with husband Ike Turner, as well as her fight with racism, sexism and ageism.
Turner persevered, eventually achieving one of the greatest musical comebacks in history.
Naomi Rodgers and Zurin Villanueva share the role of
Turner, while Garrett Turner tackles Ike and Roz White plays Zelma Bullock, mother to the iconic star.
An alumnus of Howard University, White is thrilled to be headed back to D.C. to perform.
“I’ve been a fan of Tina Turner since I was about 14 and ‘Private Dancer’ came out; we had the vinyl and I’ve always loved her music,” White says. “If you look back through my Facebook over the years, I’ve posted about her a lot. She’s such an icon and I found some similarities between the two of us — we have these raspy singing voices and the same energy on stage. I’ve [performed] a lot of Tuner songs in my day singing in bands.”
White also danced on Bourbon Street in New Orleans for three years, and one of her most popular numbers was “Proud Mary.”
She considers herself somewhat an expert on Turner and her music. Still, she learned some things once she started in the production.
“This show comes from Tina’s memory,” White says.
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“I know Tina herself has been so excited about this Broadway tour because she wanted America to hear her true story. From growing up in Nutbush, Tennessee, her close relationship with her grandmother, her not-so-close relationship with her mother and all the trials and tribulations she went through to become the iconic singer we know as Tina Turner today.”
As Turner’s mom, White’s involves more acting than singing, though she does get a standout number with “It’s Going to Work Out Fine,” a song she sings with Ike before her daughter heads out with him on tour.
The actress compares the production to “a rock concert with a book jammed in,” marrying the great hits with a compelling true tale.
“You do not need to know about Tina and her life to enjoy this show. Audiences will learn the story of an amazing young girl. She was about 7 years old when her parents basically abandoned her, so she was raised by her grandmother. She had so much courage and wouldn’t let anyone stop her from being who she wanted to be.”
A veteran of the stage, White is having a blast traveling with the touring cast.
“If you want to have an amazing time and see the best in the business, [come join us]. Our cast ranges in age from 9 to more than 60. There’s something for everybody. Plus, it’s Tina Turner’s music, so how could you not be entertained?”
“Tina — The Tina Turner Musical” opens October 4 at National Theatre and runs through October 23. Tickets start at $60. Visit thenationaldc.com to learn more and purchase tickets. National Theatre: 1321 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, DC; thenationaldc.com // @broadwaynatdc
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Photo by Manuel Harlan.
75
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the funhouse Mirror Effect of
WORDS BY JOE MARSHALL
On a crowded night at DC Improv in 2014 — long before local NFL Team Owner Dan Snyder finally conceded to an overdue name change to the Washington Commanders — comedian Rahmein Mostafavi made a joke about the “name.”
“Who thinks the (team) should change their name out of sensitivity to Native Americans?” asked Mostafavi, whose words were greeted with moderate applause by nearly half the audience. “Who thinks, under the protection of the Constitution, the name should stay the same?”
A few loud and prideful cheers exploded from comedy-goers across the room. Immediately, the room was divided.
“Hell yeah,” Mostafavi said with sarcastic vigor, taking on the voice and perspective of those who jeered. “There’s not enough of them left for us to care about their feelings.”
Mostafavi continued mockingly and proceeded to lead the room in chants for white power, which he jokingly noted usually picks up steam in Fredericksburg, Virginia. Great laughter united the room once again, but soon the laughs came in waves while the true intention behind the joke began to simmer.
The moment Mostafavi created that night is a skill the Iranian-born comedian has become infamous for: his seemingly effortless yet charming ability to deliver nuggets of self-reflection, gift-wrapped in laughter.
With more than two decades of live performance experience, Mostafavi, a theatre major from George Mason, spent countless hours honing his craft and improving his comedic timing and charisma on the stage. He’s performed with some of the most prestigious theatre groups in the area, including the Shakespeare Theatre Company and The Kennedy Center, where he spent time exploring his improv abilities as a longtime cast member of “Shear Madness,” the acclaimed comedy whodunit.
What makes Mostafavi a standout in comedy clubs and festivals across the nation is his skill for satire. He doesn’t shy away from comedic “danger zones.” His material often addresses social and political taboos, including racism, immigration and queer rights.
“I’ve never been in a fist fight in my life,” says Mostafavi, who has the ability to deliver edgy jokes and consistently
come out unscathed. “I told this to a friend in college and he said, ‘How is that possible when you’re such an asshole?’ I laughed because, honestly, I don’t know. On the stage, I try to deliver material in a non-threatening way that lets people know I’m not there to fight. I keep that twinkle in my voice to let them know the irony is present. I realize I push the limits and maybe irritate some people. I recognize those people may not laugh as hard because they’re a little upset, but one way or another, I get away with a laugh.”
One must have a strong moral compass to pull off satire. That’s not to say one must have an authoritative viewpoint on what’s right or wrong, but rather clearly identify their truth and hold to it tightly — but not tight enough that they can’t be enlightened by the truth or perspective of another.
Mostafavi — a teacher of stand-up and host of his own show “Couples Therapy,” both at DC Improv — traces his roots for satirical performance art and his quest for truth back to his junior year at McLean High School, where he ran for student body vice president as a joke to mock student government’s faux democracy.
“My whole speech was a joke,” says Mostafavi. “I was playing a character, just goofing around, but somehow I won by a landslide. I was like, ‘Crap, I’ve got responsibility now.’”
He recalls one moment of honest motivation to action when the school banned wearing all baseball caps. Mostafavi gained the support of almost the entire student body to directly oppose this new mandate. However, just before he was scheduled to give a speech against the new rule, Mostafavi had a tense interaction with another student wearing a baseball cap that shielded his eyes.
“I’m a people person, but even I was scared because I couldn’t tell if he was being aggressive or playful,” Mostafvi says. “I remember thinking to myself, ‘If I could just see his eyes, I could know the truth.’”
In that moment, motivated by the desire to protect others who might encounter such an intimidating situation, Mostafvi changed his opinion that once added to his popularity.
“I remember turning to the student body and saying, ‘Sorry guys,’” Mostafavi says. “I felt the disappointment from them, but earned the respect of the teachers that day.”
Photo courtesy of subject.
76 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022
As a lifelong advocate for civil rights, Mostafavi’s activism does not only come in the form of jokes. While he recently produced a comedy show at the DC Comedy Loft to raise funds for Planned Parenthood after the Supreme Court overturned Roe v. Wade, Mostafavi also actively participated in a campaign to rename Confederate street names in Fairfax City.
On the stage, Mostafavi’s willingness to explore both sides of an argument allows him to walk the tightrope between opposing viewpoints, by both appealing to and challenging ideologies. He can either rally audiences in laughter or with pitchforks, red hats and tiki torches. (Only former presidents choose the latter.)
Mostafavi’s work has a funhouse mirror effect: He becomes a reflection of his audience’s beliefs and encourages them to notice areas of distortion in a digestible way. The laughs he garners aren’t hollow, but rather filled with personal perspective as his takes on socio-political issues feel more like a guided tour through the inner workings of his subconscious.
In the joke about “the name,” Mostafavi, questions whether he, or anyone else, has the right to determine if something is culturally offensive while being an outsider of said culture. Through a hilarious example of how his own immigrant mother decided to correct her language after inadvertently using a slur to reference her children, Mostafavi suggests that ignorance is only an excuse we can hide behind until awareness is introduced. At that point, we now have a responsibility to reevaluate our actions and make decisions based on empathy.
“And now more dick jokes,” Mostafavi adds, releasing the tension of the solemn moment of self-reflection.
To keep up with Rahmein Mostafavi and get tickets to his shows you can visit rahmein.com. Follow him on Instagram @rahmein88.
77DISTRICT FRAY | CUE THE LIGHTS | CULTURE
Photo: Pari Dukovic
THE DAILY BEAST THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL OCTOBER 4 - 23, 2022 BROADWAYATTHENATIONAL.COM THREE WEEKS ONLY!
D.C. WALLS. Held September 9-17, D.C. Walls Festival featured 20 artists creating public masterpieces throughout D.C.’s NoMa neighborhood. The week-long event was organized by local artist Kelly Towles. Check out pictures of four of the artists, E$, Rikasso, Louis Amadeus Dain Jensen and Nicole Bourgea, painting on the Metropolitan Branch Trail during the festival’s first day. Be sure to visit the completed murals. Words and photos by Nicole Schaller.
79DISTRICT FRAY |
BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III
LIFE CURATING COMMUNITY + HOLISTIC HOSPITALITY Inside Selina Union Market WORDS + PHOTOS
The modern hospitality industry places great emphasis on designing destinations to reflect local culture, attitudes and aesthetics. In recent years, this spirit of hyper-stylized spaces has influenced global brands eager to attract and connect with travelers.
Selina Union Market, located in D.C.’s Union Market District, embodies this ethos. On the surface, it’s billed as “more than a place to stay:” a multifaceted hotel, hostel, coworking and wellness center. Selina is so much more, though, hosting art, music and a vibrant nightlife.
Destination director Maria Bastasch, a veteran of D.C.’s beverage and dining scene, describes Selina’s sites as playgrounds that act as cultural incubators. It’s where strangers, locals and guests collide and manifest community.
A Life-Giving Capsule
Through its intentional architectural choices, Selina ensures every corner and crevice is a life-giving capsule and an oasis for art and creativity.
“[Selina DC] is filled with plants; you have this element of industrial woven into a botanical jungle,” Bastasch says. “From the basement, there’s this very dark underground art-driven landscape. The primary home level feels bright and grounded in the earth. Then, finally, you get up to the rooftop and you’re in the heavens; you have all these angles of light coming through. It’s enchanting.”
The contrast between bottom and top floors is an apt metaphor for D.C.’s cultural evolution. The luminescent, graffiti-drenched basement walls mimic a hip black light rave room similar to places the city’s present day trendsetters once operated. Meanwhile, the top floor features a full bar and is replete with earthy tones, flora and fauna and plenty of windows through which revitalizing light pours.
A beautiful tapestry of art — including more than 400 original works, most of which are commissions by local artists — is laced throughout the hotel, paying homage to D.C.’s blossoming creative scene and Selina’s Latin roots.
Though, there’s also a deeper historical context on which its foundation is literally and figuratively built.
Honoring What’s Gone but Not Forgotten
“The art in so many hotel spaces is predictable, forgettable and ignored,” says Abbey Alison McClain, Selina Union Market’s curator and art lead. “Selina is different. As a resident of Northeast D.C. and an advocate for communities that support artists, I took on this project with excitement and importance. I wanted to honor the neighborhood, the building’s comprehensive history and the region’s amazing and varied artist community.”
McClain says the artistic elements, murals, unscripted installations and Selina’s studio residency program all reflect the style of the previous tenant, Union Arts. She continues by sharing many of the art pieces “imagine the possibility of a new synthesis,” while evoking the essence of the communal arts space, now loacted at 411 New York Avenue.
Honoring this legacy is why Bastasch called on a collective of like-minded collaborators, like McClain and artist Luther Wright, to infuse Selina Union Market with the right mix of local flavor.
“It’s important for art at Selina to have a local vibe because it shows the hotel’s personal connection with the city,” says Wright, a local muralist and creative. “It introduces travelers to the city’s history and culture and transforms the space into an interactive local art gallery.”
Authentic Listening
Bastasch acknowledges staying on-brand while lifting up the local community is a difficult balance to strike. It requires a lot of listening and positioning the space to react in an informed manner, rather than assuming or exhibiting a romanticized version of the capital city.
A 10-year resident of D.C., Bastasch feels intensely entwined with the District and the beautiful souls she’s met along the way. She wants Selina to be a vessel through which the city, filled with art, culture, music and culinary energy, can flourish.
“I f---ing love D.C.,” Bastasch says giddily. “It’s the most beautiful collection of individuals. And what people see from the outside, the depiction of Washington [through] monuments, policy and museums is not the full picture.”
And Bastasch continues to strive to make good on her promise to listen and empower locals to help shape Selina’s programming and ambiance. It’s the only way she feels it will be authentic.
“It’s very much [about] reaching out to people who are already doing amazing things and saying, ‘Do you need space? Can this be something that [enhances] what you’re already doing?’ If we’re thinking of it that way, it creates the opportunity for a more positive relationship. [It’s about being] more mindful as you shine a spotlight. It’s not just about consumption, but about highlighting what already exists.”
Through this process, Bastasch has introduced searing DJ sets, soulful live performances, art pop-ups, Afrobeat and Bachata dance parties and launch events for D.C.-based businesses.
Namaste
Of course, Selina cannot fully claim its “life-giving” mission without building out its wellness elements.
The airy, pristine wellness room with floor-to-ceiling walls of glass — host to a regular rotation of yoga classes — serves as a reprieve from D.C.’s manic pace.
“You can go through this incredible yoga flow and then walk around the corner with your friends and enjoy a beverage as the sun is setting,” Bastasch says. “That’s magic.”
“By incorporating self-inquiry, my intention is to align people with their inner values using compassion, and encourage them to take intentional action,” Charles Muhammad, a yoga teacher in residence, says.
Yoga is meditative, calming, strengthening and reflective. It’s the perfect medicine for Selina (and its guests) as it strives to stay grounded in the past while open to new, holistic interpretations.
Selina Union Market & Cowork: 411 New York Ave. NE, DC; selina.com // @selina_usa
81DISTRICT FRAY |
BY ABI NEWHOUSE
We love our members, so we’re highlighting them in a new series: Members Only. Kicking things off is Kelly Carnes, a District Fray member since July 2022. A costume connoisseur, it seemed only appropriate to highlight Carnes for our October fashion issue. To become a member, go to districtfray.com/subscribe.
Kelly Carnes
MEMBERS ONLY WORDS
The Many Hats of District Fray Member
Kelly Carnes is, in her words, an “extra extrovert.” A communications expert, Carnes has done it all: museum work at the Natural History Museum and the Hirshhorn; PR for the Kennedy Center; freelance for a bat conservation in Texas; clean meat in San Francisco; work as a horror writer in New York; and help run a mermaid convention in Virginia. After five years of freelance chaos, Carnes settled back in-house as Planet Word’s deputy director. Carnes continues to wear many hats in her “really robust but healthy side hustle” as curator for peer-to-peer costume rental company Trove. We talked with Carnes about a few of the hats she wears — and why she chooses to read District Fray above all else.
District Fray: How has the transition been from freelance to in-house?
Kelly Carnes: It was a tough decision. I was working with Planet Word as a communications consultant for a couple of years leading up to the first original opening date, which was originally slated for May 2020, then that October and then to the eventual, permanent opening. I really fell in love with the building, mission, staff and leadership. I wanted to support Planet Word because of what they do: creating a stronger literate population to support a stronger democracy.
That feels worth it.
Doesn’t it? Especially at this moment in time. It was one of the reasons leadership decided to open the museum in October even though the pandemic was still flexing its muscles — it was right before the 2020 election. Our rhetoric is so divided and words are used to break people apart. But really words can be used to build bridges and bring people back together. So, we wanted to raise awareness that words we take for granted every day are actually really powerful tools in creating positive change. That’s why we made this asset available to people during that charged time.
How did you get into costuming?
I wouldn’t say I “got into it” because Halloween is a lifestyle for some of us. I was born this way. Halloween was always my favorite holiday and I was a theatre geek in high school. But I didn’t realize there were outlets for creative expression like that beyond theatre for professional adults. It wasn’t until I started going to the Renaissance festival and meeting friends
who introduced me to other avenues for wearing costumes, like cosplay conventions Comic Con or Dragon Con. I realized this world was open for business all the time — you could dress up and play as a hobby and form of radical creative selfexpression at any point. It can serve as a place of escape and nourishment. You can either conceal or reveal yourself with a costume.
Which leads us to why you decided to start Trove. I built Trove because I saw other people leaning into [costuming] in the same way. It is the world’s first peer-topeer costume rental platform. So, think of it like Airbnb but for costumes. When you’re not wearing something cool and it’s just gathering dust in your closet you can rent it out and monetize it. And that lowers the barrier of entry to someone else who is costume-curious and wants to try it for a day, an event or performance and then return it.
What’s your favorite costume you’ve worn or curated? My favorite from my own collection is my Poison Ivy cosplay because that’s the first I dropped real stupid adult money on. It was amazing. That’s when it became professional grade tomfoolery instead of just messing around. I wore it to my first Dragon Con and had so much fun. The thing I’ve seen on Trove that I love the most is a set of druid armor a guy listed. It’s like antlers and moss and it looks like this very earthen druid warrior armor that, if I’m remembering correctly, he made himself. But also, at the most recent Burning Man, I thought if I was going to stomp around the desert in anything the most appropriate cosplay would be the Mandalorian, so I had leather armor for that custom commissioned.
What made you become a District Fray member? I love having access to every piece of content District Fray publishes. I look forward to getting the glossy magazine in the mail. The photography is so mind blowing. And I love the subjects District Fray chooses to celebrate. They do a really good job of elevating creatives in D.C. and highlighting the work they’re doing to bolster creativity in our community.
Favorite recent article? Roller skating. I’ve dabbled in a little roller skating myself. I was also excited to learn more about the roller skating culture — I didn’t know how much of it was pioneered by women and people of color. So, I loved seeing the magazine’s touch on that as well because that history and culture is really rich. Roller skating liberates that inner child in all of us who wants to play, and we get so few opportunities to play. I think that’s one of the reasons I gravitate toward costumes as an adult; it provides an avenue for playfulness which is also coincidentally one of the core values of Planet Word. All of these things align.
Coincidentally, District Fray’s mission is to make fun possible. Ha! Perfect.
Follow Kelly Carnes on Instagram @kellycarnes. Check out her costuming wares at trovecostumes.com and follow them on Instagram @trovecostumes.
Photo by Elizabeth Elder Photography.
83DISTRICT FRAY | LIFE
PLAY
WIZARDS PRIMED FOR A PLAYOFF PUSH
WORDS BY KEITH LORIA
Under new coach Wes Unseld, Jr., the Washington Wizards fell short of playoff expectations last season, finishing with an underwhelming 35-47 record. But with a healthier team, veteran acquisitions and a young college stud ready to take the court this October, the team should be able to return to the postseason and fight for a long playoff run.
“I think we have a tougher and grittier group of players; it’s an exciting time right now for the team,” assistant coach Ryan Richman says. “It’s important for our team to have a collective goal, first and foremost. On a general level, that’s competing night-in and night-out and playing with an edge every time we hit the court.”
The offseason started on a good note when three-time all-star Bradley Beal inked a new five-year, $251 million max contract with the club, showing his commitment to the team and his belief in its future.
While Beal injured his wrist last year, playing only 40 games and averaging a career low of 23.2 points per game, he did see an uptick on his assists average (6.6 per game). He is now healthy and should have no problem getting back to his elite level.
Beal should have more talent to work with than before. Washington brought in 7-foot-3 center Kristaps Porziņģis at the trading deadline last season, and forward Kyle Kuzma took over solidly as the number one option during Beal’s absence.
Kuzma posted career-best numbers in rebounds, assists and blocks last year and averaged 17.1 points, 8.5 rebounds and 3.5 assists.
Porziņģis showed his value with his new team by averaging 22.1 points, 8.8 rebounds and 2.9 assists, also adding 1.5 blocked shots and 1.7 three-pointers per game. His problem has always been staying healthy, but if he can give Washington a full season he should pair nicely with Beal and Kuzma.
“Our front office has done a great job of surrounding Brad and Kristaps with a team to help them flourish,” Richman says. “Our mini-camp in LA was great. Starting the chemistry both on and off the court is important and everyone is getting ready to hit training camp hard.”
Fans are also excited about the addition of rookie Johnny Davis, who the Wizards selected 10th overall in the last NBA draft. The two-way wing brings defensive grit and will add some valuable minutes to the team.
“I’m excited for him to keep growing,” Richman says. “This is going to be a great opportunity for him. He can do a bunch of things on and off the ball, and defensively it will be a great place for him to shine. Defense is a place we need to improve and he’s going to really help us there.”
The Wizards lost both Thomas Bryant and Tomas Satoransky to free agency and sent Ish Smith and Kentavious Caldwell-Pope to Denver for Will Barton and Monte Morris, and added Taj Gibson and Delon Wright in free agent deals.
“Bringing Monte and Will in to help is big,” Richman says. “Looking at their backgrounds — being in Denver and on a high-level team with some big-time battles late in the playoffs — that’s where we want to be.”
“Then Taj has been in the league for so long and is well respected,” Richman continues. “He’s a great veteran who will help out from a leadership and toughness standpoint. And Delon has been really good on a number of teams. We’re excited to have him.”
Unseld will rely on returning forward Deni Avdija and 2021 first-rounder shooting guard Corey Kispert, as well.
“We have a very well-rounded group of players that I am personally excited about,” Richman says. “When you mix the returners with the guys we’ve brought in, it’s a good recipe for success. The playoffs are something we all expect.”
Before the regular season kicks off on October 19 with an away game vs. the Indiana Pacers, the Wizards will play two preseason games in Japan on September 30 and October 2 against defending champion the Golden State Warriors. To view this season’s full schedule and get tickets, visit nba.com/wizards or follow them on Instagram at @washwizards.
Capital One Arena: 601 F St. NW, DC; capitalonearena.com // @capitalonearena
Top scorers Kyle Kuzma and Bradley Beal are being counted on to lead the Wizards to the playoffs this season. Photo courtesy of the Washington Wizards.
85DISTRICT FRAY |
At first glance, weightlifting can seem incredibly intimidating — especially the types of weightlifters you see in movies or TV shows. The last couple of years, though, the field has seen a noticeable shift in what lifters look like, and it is a lot more inclusive.
A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WEIGHTLIFTING
WORDS BY MAYRA MEJIA
Writer and editor Mikala Jamison’s lifting journey started around nine years ago at a time when she felt disconnected from her body. Jamison has been open about her recovery from disordered eating, especially in her newsletter Body Type. The newsletter serves as an exploration of all things bodies, including just how complicated it can be to simply exist in one.
What you won’t find in her newsletter is body shaming, or weight loss tips and tricks (because not everyone who likes to work out does so to lose weight).
Jamison first began pursuing weightlifting with her therapist’s encouragement to engage her body in movement she enjoyed. Jamison’s therapist asked her to reflect on what she likes and is in to.
“I remember going to the gym with my mom when I was a teenager,” Jamison says. “My mom was a weightlifter. She took me to Gold’s Gym and she was the only woman there.
DO
• Keep your back straight when lifting.
• Wear appropriate clothing and safety equipment such as gloves. Wear shoes with good traction.
• Follow your gym’s safety rules.
• Warm up and cool down exercises before and after lifting.
DON’T
• Hold your breath when lifting heavy weights. Doing this can cause you to faint and lose control of your weights. Breathe out when you lift or press.
• Continue lifting if you feel pain. Stop the exercise for a couple of days until you fully recover before trying again.
• Lift weights if you are light-headed.
• Lift more than you can lift safely.
videos about what to do,” she says. “I just wanted to feel like I had a plan.”
Helpful topics to Google might include: what machines are available in a gyms; what a leg press machine is; and what to do with dumbbells.
“Especially as a beginner, I wanted to feel like I could walk into a gym and understand what I’m doing and my goals,” Jamison says.
She’s this tiny woman and was hanging out in the weight room showing me what to do. She was like, ‘You’re strong — you’re good at this.’ That definitely left an imprint on me which I didn’t realize until later.”
“So, when I was looking for something to bring me back to this place of connection with my own body, I said ‘I’m going to get into lifting,” she continues.
“It’s the first thing that came to mind.”
Weightlifting has given Jamison much more than increased physical strength. It’s also increased her body awareness, a huge accomplishment for someone who previously felt disconnected from her body.
Lifting has also helped her eating disorder recovery process.
“Learning how important food is for lifting — eating enough food, eating carbs, eating protein — has been really helpful for me,” she says.
All bodies can benefit from some sort of strength training, but the key is to do it safely. We asked Jamison to give us some tips for weightlifting beginners to make it as positive an experience as possible.
Make a plan
Jamison recommends to do your research before you start.
“I got into weightlifting by sitting down and watching YouTube
Go to the gym when it’s not crowded
Gyms can be intimidating, especially if you are just starting out. Make friends with the staff and ask when the gym is at its slowest. This ensures you can take your time, familiarize yourself with the equipment and exercise in relative privacy.
Safety first
Local Weightlifting Gyms, Clubs + Communities
Brazen Fitness
607 S Ball St. Arlington, VA brazenfitness.com @brazenfitnessgym
DC Weightlifting Club
1507 U St. NW, DC dcweightlifting.org @dcweightlifting
Dedicated Strength
Professional Fitness
Coaching 1802 11th St. NW 1B, DC dedicatedstrengthdc.com @dedicatedstrengthdc
MINT | DC Gym + Studio
1724 California St. NW, DC mintdc.com
@mintgymstudio
OSS Weightlifting Club
6159 Edmondson Ave. Catonsville, MD
ossweightliftingclub.org
@oss_weightlifting
Don’t risk injury. Be sure to start small, ideally with the help of a trainer or friend who is more experienced to help with your form and act as a spotter (someone to help you with the weight if you cannot lift it).
Know the difference between strength training + weightlifting
Strength training involves the performance of physical exercises designed to improve strength and endurance. Weightlifting is the sport or activity of lifting barbells or other heavy weights. There are two standard lifts in modern weightlifting: the single-movement lift from floor to extended position (the snatch); and the two-movement lift from floor to shoulder position and shoulder to extended position (the clean and jerk).
“I think a lot of times these words get thrown around interchangeably which can confuse people,” Jamison says. “When you’re talking about strength training, it’s literally working against resistance. This could be handheld dumbbells, using machines, resistance bands, or push-ups and bodyweight stuff. Strength training is like the big umbrella term.”
Want to keep up with Mikala Jamison? Follow her on Twitter @NotJameson. Follow her newsletter @_bodytype on Instagram.
Mikala Jamison. Photo by Mariela Alas.
87DISTRICT FRAY | BEGINNER’S GUIDE | PLAY
/////////////////// /////////////////// MAKING FUN POSSIBLE JOIN A SPORTS LEAGUE TODAY REGISTER AT DCFRAY.COM/LEAGUES Basketball Bocce Cornhole Dodgeball Flag Football Hockey Kickball Skeeball Soccer Softball Tennis Trivia Ultimate Frisbee Volleyball Yoga
PLAYERS’ CLUB
CELEBRATING COMMUNITY WITH CEY CEY GREEN
WORDS BY CHAD KINSMAN
We love our DC Fray sports leagues, so we’re highlighting players in our series Players’ Club. We’re kicking things off in the magazine with DC Fray superstar Cey Cey Green. Learn more about our leagues at dcfray.com/leagues.
Whether on the field or off, teaching students or dancing with friends, 36-year-old educator Green is a champion in the fullest sense of the word. An outspoken advocate for DC’s LGBTQ+ community, they know working hard and playing hard as your authentic self is the best way to make the world better for everyone. Read on to learn a little more about one of the District’s most committed kickballers.
District Fray: What sport(s) do you play for Fray, and when did you start?
Cey Cey Green: I play kickball with DC Fray. My first season was fall 2019. This current season makes six in all. I also host a volleyball night and a kickball night.
Why did you start playing with Fray?
I also play in Stonewall kickball. Many folks who play there also play in the Fray Thursday league since they are both for the LGBTQ+ community. I joined Fray to hang out with my friends more and play more kickball. It’s really my jam.
What’s a great memory you have with Fray? There’s not a specific memory, but Fray is always a constant reminder that the queer community in D.C. is so large and full of so many cool folks. On the nights I play and the nights I host, I’ve met some really awesome people I probably wouldn’t have otherwise.
What’s your favorite aspect of kickball? I love that kickball is deceptively challenging. A lot of folks think of it the same way they did in elementary school: Kick the ball as hard you can and run the bases. But when you understand the rules and some of the strategies for playing, games can get really fun and intense.
Any pre-game warmups? Stretch, stretch, stretch. And take a few practice throws to get the shoulder moving.
Typical post-game plans? They vary. I’m an educator for my day job, so sometimes it’s straight home and to bed since it’s a school night. But every now and then I’ll step out for a drink and hang out.
Why have you stuck with Fray for six seasons? One: community. It’s a great opportunity to meet new people who aren’t already in my circle or somehow tied to it. Two: I really love playing kickball.
What’s your advice for someone who’s yet to join Fray? Do it. As long as you’re friendly, at minimum you will get a few friends out of it. But you could also find an entire community, friends you’ll have for life and a new hobby you can devote yourself to.
D.C. neighborhood? Eckington. Favorite professional sports team? No thank you. Favorite D.C. retreat? Peirce Mill in Rock Creek Park. Favorite local cultural institution? Stonewall Kickball DC. Nonprofit people should know? National Black Justice Coalition.
Follow Green on Instagram at @ceyonce.
Photo courtesy of subject.
89DISTRICT FRAY |
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U.S. WOMEN’S NATIONAL TEAM VS. NIGERIA AT AUDI FIELD. The U.S. Women’s National Team won 2-1 in their second friendly against team Nigeria on Tuesday, September 6 at Audi Field. Star striker Sophia Smith created a number of chances, and the team secured a goal against Nigeria in the first half. Nigeria’s Uchenna Kanu scored a huge goal in the second half, and Rose Lavelle scored the game winner with a big assist from Megan Rapinoe. At the end of the game, the USWNT signed their CBA with US Soccer, establishing their agreement of equal pay with the USMNT. Words and photos by Krystina Brown.
91DISTRICT FRAY |
As You Are exists to hold and cultivate a safe and celebratory space for the LGBTQIA+ community. Café by day, bar and dance lounge by night, As You Are welcomes LGBTQIA+ patrons, from all walks of life, and allies in a versatile haven for queer expression and connection.
asyouaredc.com | @asyouaredc
500 8th St. SE, DC | 202-506-1440
The Brig is a German beer garden nestled in the heart of D.C. In this open-air beer garden, you can enjoy your favorite German fare and a wide selection of beers and cocktails.
thebrigdc.com | @thebrigwdc
1007 8th St. SE, DC | 202-675-1000
Enjoy a coastal getaway whatever the season with beach-inspired bites and arcade games galore. Book your next company Happy Hour or birthday celebration at the biggest indoor/outdoor bar & arcade in the nation’s capital!
boardwalkwharf.com | @boardwalkbarddc
715 Wharf St SW, DC | 202-481-0044
Our restaurant and bar offers authentic German-American food and delicious beer. With long communal tables and 20 TVs throughout, Bronson provides our guests with a traditional German feel. This is the perfect setting to spend time with family and friends.
bronsonbierhall.com | @bronsonbierhall
4100 Fairfax Dr. Arlington, VA | 703-528-1110
92 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022 BECOME A SPONSOR
City-State makes the best beer and beverages in the District, and our taproom is a special place. We’re on the Metropolitan Branch Trail, and just steps from Rhode Island Avenue Metro. Open Tue-Fri—find your District with us. Book your next special occasion at City-State, and be sure to check out our events calendar. City-State—the Flavor of the District.
citystatebrewing.com | IG @citystatebrewing | TW @citystatebeer
705 Edgewood St. NE, DC | 202-525-4410
Enjoy Continental’s half-priced game rates until 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. Our beer garden is dog and family-friendly (under 21 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian; valid ID required to purchase alcohol).
continentalpoollounge.com | @ cplrosslyn
1901 N Moore St. Arlington, VA | 703-317-7443 (beer garden) | 703-465-7675 (pool lounge)
Contact martin@unitedfray.com for partnership opportunities.
Welcome to the newly rebranded Clubhouse, a one-of-a-kind space for everyone. Happy Hour is from 5-7 p.m. with $8 wines/beer and $10 cocktails. Our event space offers a catering menu with authentic pizza. Book an event today in one of Georgetown’s largest venues.
clubhousedc.co | @clubhouse_dc 1070 Wisconson Ave. NW, DC | 202-847-0953
Grand Central serves delicious classic American favorites year-round for dinner Monday through Sunday. We also offer sports betting. Please visit our website for more details.
grandcentraldc.com | @grandcentraldc
2447 18th St. NW, DC | 202-986-1742
93DISTRICT FRAY | BECOME A SPONSOR
Hamilton’s Bar and Grill has great drink specials, fantastic comfort food and top notch service. Come check out our ALL-DAY Friday happy hour with $2 PBRs and High Lifes and you’ll see why we’ve been a Capitol Hill institution since 2006.
hamiltonsdc.com | @hamiltonsdc
232 2nd St. NW, DC | 202-347-6555
Located on the Rooftop at Union Market, Hi-Lawn is one of D.C.’s largest, most expansive rooftops for outdoor dining, drinking and socializing. We’ve got fun events every night of the week, from trivia and bingo nights, to live music and DJs, plus lawn games, picnics, grilled eats, creative cocktails, all with city views.
hilawndc.com | @hilawndc 1309 5th St. NE, DC | 202-481-0958
kellysirishtimesdc.com | @KellysIrishTimesDC
14 F St. NW, DC | 202-543-5433
Kelly’s Irish Times is a quaint, sometimes boisterous Irish pub, with great food, perfect cold pints, a wicked cast of characters behind the bar and a world-class jukebox.
94 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022 BECOME A SPONSOR
A massive beer hall featuring three-day fermented pizza dough by global pizza guru Giulio Adriani, Quincy Hall touts an eclectic selection of draft beers, cocktails, wine and a huge patio. Perfect for watching sports and available for private parties and corporate gatherings, Quincy Hall combines fun and delicious!
quincyhallbar.com | @quincyhallbar
4001 Fairfax Dr. Arlington, VA | 703-567-4098
Book your next private event at the ‘CLUBHOUSE.’ Email us to learn more about what we have to offer and how its free.
sudhousedc.com @sudhousedc
1340 U St. NW, DC 202-525-4188
Spider Kelly’s is your local neighborhood bar. In 2016, Spider Kelly’s converted parking spaces behind the bar into a huge beer garden. The space has plenty of room to host priviate events.
spiderkellys.com | @spiderkellys
3181 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA | 703-312-8888
Come join in on the fun at one of the most celebrated rooftops in town. Take advantage of generous discounts on our wide draft beer selection and appetizers during Happy Hour or bring your squad for bottomless mimosas during brunch!
takodadc.com | @takodadc
715 FLORIDA AVE NW DC | 202-525-1257
95DISTRICT FRAY | BECOME A SPONSOR
The German themed beer garden’s Oktoberfest will feature four weekends chock-full of German cuisine, live bands, Bavarian games, DJ parties and of course lots of beer. The event is held from September 16 to October
on our site.
96 | OCTOBER // NOVEMBER 2022 BECOME A SPONSOR
9. More information can be found
1101 1st St. NE, DC | 202-123-4567 wundergartendc.com | @wundergartendc BECOME A SPONSOR Choose from four package levels to sponsor DC Fray sports leagues and promote your brand in exclusive, Fray communications. CONTACT MARTIN ESPINOZA AT MARTIN@UNITEDFRAY.COM
DISTRICT
PHOTO-HUNT
FUN
CAN YOU SPOT THE SEVEN DIFFERENCES? If you saw Krystina Brown’s photos of the U.S. Women’s National Team’s win vs. Nigeria on page 91, you’ll be ready to shoot your shot. Real-life differences will be less obvious, seeing as the USWNT just secured equal pay with the U.S. Men’s National Team — but here, we’ve got a couple (hat) tricks up our sleeves. Check districtfray.com for the answer key.
U.S. Women’s National Team vs. Nigeria at Audi Field. Photo by Krystina Brown.
97
FRAY |
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OCTOBER 28, 2022 // 8:00 - 11:00 P.M. OPENBARRUNSTHROUGH10PM DCFRAY.COM/EVENTS OPEN BAR HALLOWEEN BASH AT GRAND CENTRAL
THE NEW WAVE OF D.C. FASHION
CREATED BY MYLES MELLOR
This month, we’re highlighting the fashion industry. Below, you’ll find clues related to shape, silhouette, line, color and texture. There are other clues, but the more fashion on the brain the better you’ll perform. Now make it work.
NOTE: Check districtfray.com for the answer key.
ACROSS
1 Checkered
4 Fashionable footwear
8 Ex Nihilo’s Honoré Delights or Musc Noir for Her from Narciso Rodriguez
10 Dark brown color and coffee order
12 Shaded hair color
14 Adorns
17 Two in Spain
18 Pacific Island nation
19 Runway VIPs
23 Type of sweater
24 Uncomplicated
27 Shoulder bag part
30 Historic period
32 of Capri
33 Intangible qualities
34 Type of earring
35 Addition to a letter, abbr.
DOWN
1 Make a vivid impression, as a color for example
2 Lilting tune
3 Painted sloppily
4 Mixes
5
Original manufacturer’s item, abbr.
6 Company abbreviation
7 Knitted neck warmer
9 Shade tree
11 Wine cask material
12 Not operating
13 Small, delicate jewel
15 Necklaces worn closely around the throat
16 Jogging gear
20 Colorful Mexican sashes
21 Fashionista’s concerns
22 Tailor’s line
23 Prefix with angle
24 Shade of green, as a color
25 Debussy’s “La ’’
26 Popular hospital TV series
28 Piece of advice
29 Swiss mountain
31 Exclamation of surprise
99DISTRICT FRAY | CROSSWORD | FUN
Unwrap the joy of the season at Gaylord National with endless hours of holiday entertainment and activities for the whole family to enjoy together.
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Unity, Oneness + Equality
WORDS BY AVIVA BECHKY
Local activist Ary Mondragon-Mimms, co-founder of Día de los Muertos DC, shares why she helped launch the immigrant rights nonprofit — and why community is key to creating change.
Día de los Muertos, when the dead and living reunite, is a time of activism for Ary Mondragon-Mimms. “If we’re all the same in death, we should all be the same in life,” she says. “So we celebrate talking about unity, oneness and equality.”
Mondragon-Mimms, an activist and radio co-host on “El Pedro Biaggi Show,” co-founded Día de los Muertos DC about six years ago. The group runs an annual benefits festival in November, creating space to enjoy art, music and community while fundraising for two immigrants’ rights groups: Young Center for Immigrant Children’s Rights and Rostros Sabios. “We want to continue spreading just the message of peace and unity everywhere we go,” Mondragon-Mimms says.
Note: This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
District Fray: Can you talk to me about why you founded Día de los Muertos DC and what impact you want it to have?
Ary Mondragon-Mimms: We started the nonprofit because, well, I’m an immigrant. I’m a Mexican immigrant. All the issues at the border are very close to my heart — more so because a lot of families are being separated. Children are being completely traumatized through this process. We wanted to do something through art and music. We decided to fundraise for organizations that were actually making a change.
Can you tell me a bit about the benefits festival you’re planning to have this year?
We’re continuing to promote the initiative to make Día de los Muertos an international holiday. We’re also going to continue with live music and programming. We’re going to fundraise again. Every year, we fundraise for the same nonprofits because unfortunately, it is an issue that won’t go away anytime soon. We’re also trying to expand and create an altar route where each neighborhood in the DMV has an altar.
Say more about the role altars play. The altars [are] obviously paying homage to our ancestors, but they’re also a way to pay homage to ourselves and really start loving and respecting ourselves. I lost my uncle, the patriarch of our family, about two months ago and it was very, very hard not being able to go and physically say goodbye. So I created my little altar and really just put that intention and energy out: “I want to love the way you love. I want to be compassionate with people.” [Altars are] a reminder of who we are.
Who should come [to the benefits festival]?
Everybody. We don’t have a demographic that we aim for. We want to make sure that we make it open enough for everybody to come in.
Is there anything special about celebrating in D.C. in particular?
It’s magical that I’m from Mexico City and my husband is from D.C. The city vibe that we love, that’s number one. And also number two: D.C. is a capital of the world, and D.C. has a lot of eyes on it all the time. To be able to also create change and make a difference, you have to position yourself at the right place, and I think that D.C. is the best place to be.
Planning your Día de los Muertos event, what kind of misconceptions do you see?
I feel like it’s not so much a misconception. I feel like it’s just ignorance. People only know, “Oh, it’s the Day of the Dead. That’s it.” It’s just not knowing the depths of that day and the importance of the holiday. We don’t even make it to a misconception. The worst part is that we are not even there yet. That’s why we have to educate. We have to start from zero.
So looking forward, are you hopeful? Are you pessimistic?
I’m very hopeful that we can make a change. I’ve seen the change happening; I see it happening in a lot of us. I see the power is in the people. I see the power is in the numbers — and we have the numbers.You do activism work in so many different ways. What do you think are some of the most effective ways to really make change?Connect with a community. Find that way to connect, to really connect, with your community because that’s how you’re going to create change. You have to start like that.
Follow Mondragón-Mimms at @arymondragonmimms and listen on @pedrobiaggishow. Follow Día de los Muertos DC at @ddlmdc. Mondragón-Mimms is also currently fighting to regain possession of her green card and passport. Read more and support her at tinyurl.com/arymondragon.
Favorite podcast? “Mighty Women.” Radio station? La Pantera. Go-to restaurant in D.C.? Las Placitas. Favorite local business? Mexican Fruits LLC. Activist groups you think more people should support? United We Dream. If you were doing another job, what do you think it would be? Cooking. I created a concept around inclusivity and diversity through foods and it’s a mobile enchilada bar. It doesn’t matter what type of allergy you have: you can eat everything. What’s your favorite recipe? The vegan coconut pico de gallo.
Photo by Liz Calka.
IN OTHER WORDS DISTRICT FRAY | 103
WE DEVELOP ARTISTRY
Founded in 2009, Sterling Conservatory of Music is a family-owned business, dedicated to the creative enrichment of the local community. We offer customtailored music lessons to dedicated students ranging from 5 to 80 years old, from beginners to highly advanced levels. For Adult Students in particular, we are one of metro-DC/Northern Virginia’s top music centers. We focus on Piano/Harpsichord, Guitar, Vocal Lessons, Harp, and Musical Theater Coaching.
Our various Courses offer annual Recitals, Adult-only Soirées, Masterclasses, Workshops, Creative Workshops, Lecture-Recitals, Performance Classes, Internal Competitions, and even a Director Apprenticeship. We offer more flexibility on scheduling, rescheduling, and personalized vacation times. No annual/semester enrollment obligations, no recurring fees, no hassle.
We take great pride in our high caliber faculty, their credentials and experience are second-to-none. With high-level education and experience as the cornerstone of our studio, our growing faculty has attended a variety of prestigious schools such as the Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama, London College of Music, Peabody Institute of the Johns Hopkins University, Berklee College of Music, Shenandoah Conservatory, and many more.
Whether you or your family are looking for lessons or are just wanting to improve your technique, our faculty has diverse and experienced backgrounds that will help you achieve your goals. We aim to nurture your ability to listen and understand the difference between just playing notes vs. making genuine music. We develop artistry.
SCM staff have also studied under renowned artists such as Aldo Ciccolini, Richard Goode, Leon Fleisher, Garrick Ohlsson, Steven Isserlis, Gidon Kremer, Ian Hobson, John Perry, Bernard Roberts, Boris Berman, Martin Jones, Irina Osipova, Julian Jacobson, Robert Sholl, Vivien Harvey Slater, Fazliddin Husanov, Michael Schreider, Alan Chow, Yong Hi Moon, Robert Trent, Julio Alves, Paul Rowe, Jeanette Thompson, and Thomas Kasdorf. Our teachers are at the top of their fields as both instructors and active musicians/performers.
CONTACT US: www.SCMusicArts.com 571-659-1954 10341-B Democracy Lane, Fairfax, VA 22030 SERVICES OFFERED: Piano/Harpsichord Guitar Vocal Lessons Musical/Theatre Vocal Coaching Commercial Vocals/Music Business Harp
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