T H E D I S T R I C T O F C A N N A B I S + P L A N T - B A S E D P L A T E S + R O C K C L I M B I N G 101 + H I P - H O P R E M I X E D + I N D I E C I N E M A
A LIFESTYLE + ENTERTAINMENT MAGAZINE • APRIL // MAY 2022
30 RECORD STORES THE VINYL COLLECTOR ’S GUIDE 40 VINTAGE SHOPS D.C. DESIGNERS SUSTAINABLE FASHION 20 LOCAL CURATORS STREET ST YLE WEIRD FINDS
THE
ISSUE The Waxing + Waning of Vinyl An Inside Look at Byrdland Records Retro Fashion Redefined Communing with Tiara Chameleon
Charlie Visconage's
POSITIVESoloFURY Exhibition
Opening May 6, 7-9 P.M. cavisconage
By appointment May 7-22
www.visconage.com Original score by Shining Seconds
52 O St NW 20001
FEATURES
26 30 32 BYRDLAND BRINGS VINYL TO LIFE
LESLIE ODOM JR. FINDS HOME ONSTAGE
ALL THE VINYL THINGS
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TIARA CHAMELEON STYLES VINTAGE ART
RADAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
5 District Denizens
CULTURE
52 Where to Shop Vintage
ROBERT KINSLER Publisher robert@unitedfray.com
8 Calendar
57 Vintage Expert Tips
EAT
60 14 Stylish Locals
MONICA ALFORD Editor-in-Chief + Director of Media monica@unitedfray.com
18 Plant-Based Meals
77 Convening with Dur Doux
20 Food for Thought
80 Weird Finds
DRINK 22 202 Proof
MUSIC 36 Too Free 40 Shaolin Jazz 43 Grown-Up Things
66 Sustainable Fashion
84 Cue The Lights 99 In Other Words
LIFE
87 Suns Cinema 92 Cultivating Cannabis
PLAY
94 Rock Climbing 101 97 April Sports Schedule
FUN
102 Vintage Crossword 104 Connect The Dots
SEEN
51 Behind The Scenes
ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III Managing Editor andrew@unitedfray.com NICOLE SCHALLER Editorial Assistant nicole@unitedfray.com JAMIE MCCRARY Senior Editor jamie@unitedfray.com JULIA GOLDBERG Editorial Designer julia@unitedfray.com CLAIRE SMALLEY Production Designer claire@unitedfray.com TOM ROTH Key Account Manager tomroth@unitedfray.com MARTIN ESPINOZA Senior Director of Events martin@unitedfray.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Marcelle Afram, Caroline Cliona Boyle, Sylvia Colella, Trent Johnson, Colleen Kennedy, James Liska, Joe Marshall, Nevin Martell, Jamie McCrary, Travis Mitchell, Umarah Mughnee, Casey Pazzalia, Bryan Rodrigues-Oliveira, Kristen Schott, Amanda Weisbrod, Brandon Wetherbee
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS + PHOTOGRAPHERS
70
James Coreas, Eric Dolgas, Interstellar Studio, Kimchi Photography, Scott Suchman
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER
Kimchi Photography
ON THE COVER
Tiara Chameleon
COVER LOCATION
Byrdland Records
STYLE ON THE STREET Tiara Chameleon. Photo by Kimchi Photography.
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR THE VINTAGE ISSUE. This was a fun one, guys. To be clear, I literally love nothing more than putting together this magazine — my family, Boston terrier and bubbly libations excluded — but culling together vintage-themed content is like giving candy to a baby (for me, anyway). My team and I spent a substantial amount of time whittling down all of the directions we could go with this theme, and we landed on two key components thriving in the District right now: vinyl and fashion. Vinyl shops in D.C. seem to have been one of the most resilient subsets of the local music industry during the past two years, with several dozen mainstays motoring on and even a few new spots popping up. Chief among them is Byrdland Records, the brainchild of Songbyrd Music House’s Joe Lapan and Alisha Edmonson, which landed in Union Market District in late 2020. The couple and business partners have since relocated Songbyrd to the same area, taking root in Coconut Club’s former space. Byrdland is retro mecca for vinyl heads, full of funky furniture, an old-school listening booth, antique turntables, vintage speakers, a jukebox with a killer playlist, and walls of iconic titles and merch. Of course, we had to shoot the cover in this space. When it came to our cover subject, I knew we wanted to tap into the vintage fashion scene in D.C. Curators of retro style are the new tastemakers in the city, with brick-and-mortar consignment shops and frequent vintage-themed pop-ups in abundance. Stylists like Tiara Chameleon are making a name for themselves through an eclectic mix of styles from previous decades, and building collections for locals to rent or buy. If you needed yet another reminder of how close-knit our creative community is in the District, we found out during our shoot with Chameleon at Byrdland that she had just sold items from her latest collection at a weekend pop-up featuring local curators at Songbyrd. We brought in photographer Mike Kim of Kimchi Photography, our favorite music nerd and avid concertgoer, to capture Chameleon in a range of looks highlighting ‘70s and ‘80s fashion. I had an “a-ha” moment watching Kim perched atop a ladder in the center of Byrdland, his camera dangling precariously so he could get the perfect shot, with Chameleon lying on the floor beneath him surrounded by records we handpicked (we all agreed the “Jackie Brown” soundtrack and Grace Jones’ “I’m Not Perfect” were the clear winners). It was one of those, “This is what it’s all about” moments, where
I was reminded that I get to kick it with record store owners while a fashion stylist poses with special releases from some of my musical heroes. But more importantly, I get to lead a team of incredibly talented writers, editors, photographers, illustrators and creatives who helped me put together a 108-page issue featuring 40 vintage shops, 30 record stores and 20 retro curators, plus pieces on sustainable fashion, weird finds, street style, vintage expert tips and a vinyl collector’s guide. We were also pumped to nab an interview with Leslie Odom Jr., local artists Too Free and Shaolin Jazz, mother-daughter fashion designers Dur Doux, jewelry designer Grace Yeboah Ofori and cinematographer Aaron Tucker. Plus, some insights into D.C.’s potpourri scene (if you know, you know), rock climbing 101, indie film with Suns Cinema, plantbased plates and much more. We had so much fun delving into the city’s vintage scene for this issue, and we hope you enjoy reading all about it. And if you end up on a vinyl treasure hunt or vintage clothing spree based on our recs, shoot us a note on IG (@districtfray) and share your finds! MONICA ALFORD EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Behind the scenes at the April // May cover shoot at Byrdland Records. From L to R. Mike Kim, Monica Alford, Tiara Chameleon + Andrew J. Williams III.
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HOLLYWOOD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET IS LOCAL FASHION DESIGNER
Grace Yeboah Ofori WORDS BY NICOLE SCHALLER | PHOTO BY INTERSTELLAR STUDIO
RADAR | DISTRICT DENIZENS Outside of D.C., nestled in the suburbs of Springfield, Virginia, is a hidden shop stocked with African-influenced jewelry and colorful designs celebrities like Janet Jackson and movie productions like “Black Panther” seek. For those who are in the know, the store is TruFaceByGrace and the mind behind the growing design empire is Grace Yeboah Ofori. Upon entering Ofori’s studio, the narrow hallway opens first to a small showroom on the left with a display case full of rings sculpted from cow bones and horns, gold-plated necklaces, wooden and beaded earrings and metal cuffs. A mannequin adorned with tubular-stacked leather necklaces and a Zulu hat flanks the display case and a rack of multicolored grid patternlaced dresses and capes. But behind the showroom is where I hear chatter, music and laughter. Just returning from New York Fashion Week where her jewelry was featured at local designer Dur Doux’s show, Ofori is still unpacking, organizing and checking inventory with her team. Even on a day of manual labor, Ofori is dressed impeccably. The Ghana-born creative is wearing her own pieces including a statement beaded necklace and a black cape she turned into a dress, along with adding removable sleeves that add more structural dimension to the garment. Ofori describes her style as “head turner. When I attend an event, you have no choice but to come to me.” I can attest to her claim. When I first met Ofori, I was at an event and spotted her across the room. She was wearing a red fringe cape dress, silver hoop beaded earrings and a matching cuff. I promptly went up to compliment her.
Finding Grace Designing comes as second nature to Ofori, who even before launching her company found ways to add her African culture to her everyday wear. “I’d buy something plain from H&M and sew African pieces and accents to it,” Ofori recalls. “People would ask ‘Where’d you get that?’ I was always trying to change clothing. I don’t like to wear what everybody is wearing. One of my inspirations is not blending in because I feel like I’m different. So, I need to show myself my [truth]. That’s where the company name comes from. Your true self.” Ofori did not always carry this philosophy about her outfits, though. At 15, her family moved from Ghana to Canada and in the teenage turbulence of searching for one’s identity and belonging, Ofori struggled. “I went to a mostly all-white school in the middle of grade 11 and I was the only girl from Africa. There were some Black people there, but I still didn’t fit in. I was scared to wear African pieces. I was still finding myself.” Following high school, Ofori followed a standard track of academics and pursued a profession that would appease her family. “I’m from a very poor family,” Ofori says. “My mother told me in order to be successful you have to go to university. And in order to be equal with people who are born with money you have to work hard. Everything you do you have to put your all in it. And if you put your all into it and it’s successful, then you made it. That’s how I grew up.” Ofori went to college in Canada and double majored in prelaw and sociology. While in undergrad, she worked three jobs and graduated without loans. Originally, she aspired to go to law school but found the cost too steep. Instead, she earned 6
| APRIL // MAY 2022
a master’s in public policy by attending grad school at night while working a full-time job in the Canadian government. The continued hustle throughout her early adulthood fueled her entrepreneurial spirit. “I’ve never had just one job. I always have a side job. If I have one job, I feel like I’m wasting my time.” One of her consistent side hustles for close to twenty years was working as a makeup artist at events. Self-taught and starting at 17, Ofori would book out every weekend for months for people’s weddings in Canada. Even after moving from Canada with her husband in 2014 to the DMV, she continued to work as a makeup artist on top of her full-time job in the U.S. government — but struggled to find a loyal network. “Here [in the DMV] everybody and their mom is a makeup artist. It wasn’t like that 20 years ago back in Canada. I was the only one when I started.” Ever the innovator, Ofori began to rethink her business and saw an opportunity for an untapped market in the U.S. for African clothing and pieces. “My company would not be a success in Canada,” Ofori affirms. “In Canada it is easy for Black residents to trace back their heritage. They still have strong immigrant roots. They were not enslaved or stolen from their country the way many African American [ancestors] in the U.S. were. When I came [to the DMV], I saw African Americans were seeking [African] culture. It was amazing. They knew our food. They celebrated our music.” From this observation and people consistently asking her where she got the outfits she created for herself, Ofori started her design company in 2015.
Adding Flair Ofori isn’t focused on creating replicas of traditional African jewelry and clothing. She wants to use her designs as a launching point. “I’m inspired by the cultures of all the different African countries,” Ofori says. “Even in Ghana, there’s 10 tribes and each of the tribes have their own jewelry and clothing. I take inspiration from it and make it wearable art by adding my own flair. I make it modern.” Through networking and scouting, Ofori now works with artisans in eight African countries that help bring her designs to life. “It all starts when something pops in my head. I have to consider the raw materials. So what country am I going to create this piece from? Because South Africa will have a certain kind of beads. Is it Kenyan, is it Tanzanian? Because each of the raw materials is specific to that country. Even the same material like a cowry shell can be a different color depending on which country one sources from.” Ofori notes she is always dreaming about “what-ifs” and is amazed at how often what she describes and asks for is brought to life. Take a pair of earrings she made that were inspired by traditional, hand-carved wooden Tanzanian dolls. When she came up with the idea and explained it to an artisan, they thought she was joking — but as I look through the showroom’s display case, there are two eye-catching mini wooden dolls hanging from respective earring clasps intricately wearing white and golden beaded skirts, necklaces and earrings of their own. “I don’t draw. I scribble what I come up with and then show
DISTRICT DENIZENS | RADAR my artisans. I’m lucky to have artisans in different countries that can take what I describe and make it a reality.”
Underground Stardom The first three years of running TruFaceByGrace, Ofori went to DMV markets and toured at festivals, such as the Brooklyn Dance Festival and ESSENCE Festival, to sell her jewelry, bags and capes. Customers were instantly drawn to her designs. She began to build a following and network with other designers. For most this level of success would be sufficient, for Ofori this was only the beginning. In 2018, L.A.-based fashion designer Claude Kameni of Lavie by CK, who is known for using West African prints to create red carpet looks, was working with Janet Jackson’s team for her new single and music video “Made For Now” with Daddy Yankee. Kameni also happened to be one of the designers Ofori networked with and even collaborated with on previous photo shoots. “They were showing [Kameni] the mood board for the album cover and asked her to make these gorgeous African print dresses,” Ofori says. “Then they showed her the jewelry designs they wanted and [Kameni] said to them, ‘Grace has all of this.’” Kameni told Ofori to come to New York with her jewelry immediately. Ofori hopped on a train with suitcases in tow full of jewelry and made her way north. Still working for the government full time, Ofori only had time to drop off the jewelry but not to stay for the photo shoot because she didn’t want to miss work. “I regret it to this day because I could have met [Jackson],” Ofori says. “Claude recorded the shoot for me and they were dancing and chatting with her and talking about Jollof rice.” Following the photoshoot, Jackson’s team asked for more of Ofori’s pieces for her appearance on the “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon” and the subsequent music video. As we sit on the couch in her studio, Ofori shows me the music video and points out every time Jackson or a dancer appears wearing one of her pieces. One of the most memorable is a golden-beaded, layered-draped neckpiece Jackson wears cascading over her shoulders which stops right before the waist. However, despite all the memorable pieces throughout the music video if you search for Ofori’s name with “Made for Now,” nothing comes up. She was not publicly credited for the jewelry worn. Behind the scenes is another story. Before Ofori knew it, other celebrities like Phoebe Robinson and “Orange Is the New Black’s” Danielle Brooks began reaching out to her — as well as movie producers. A buyer for costume designer Ruth E. Carter was the first producer to request jewelry from her for “Black Panther.” Since then, there has been a steady flow of production requests including “Coming to America 2,” “Red Notice” and “Raising Dion.” While at the studio, Ofori showed me some buckets full of requested jewelry and pieces created for an upcoming film sequel she could not disclose.
Facing Hurdles In spite of her success in the entertainment industry, Ofori notes there have been some drawbacks. “I used to have this gold choker made in South Africa from
a Zulu tribe. The chokers had this leather back in, which is my original design. After ‘Black Panther’ the choker was copied in China and sold using one of my pictures. I worked with a photographer from New York and a model. I did her makeup and she wore my pieces and we did a photoshoot. Her face then was all over Amazon, Alibaba AliExpress and Google.” Ofori is no stranger to people copying her designs. When selling at markets, she noticed other designers began copying her work. Yet, the increase of exposure her products receive from celebrities, influencers and film productions — and the lack of attribution — exponentially increases the issue and her ability to control it. “When I go to Ghana and scout artisans they now show me my own designs. They tell me ‘We have this amazing design from the U.S.’ and show me my picture.” Furthermore, because film productions buy the pieces from Ofori, they are not required to list her in credits or publicly acknowledge it. With some productions, the buyer requests a large number of custom pieces of jewelry and accessories — which Ofori pays for — but then only purchases one or two pieces, leaving her with unnecessary inventory. Once, Ofori loaned out an estimated $13,000 worth of jewelry to a music video set where most of the pieces came back damaged. Worst, Ofori didn’t get compensated for the damage or credited in the project. “They just have no respect for us,” Ofori says about the entertainment industry. “It’s as if [we’re expected to be] privileged and honored they want to pull from us. And most of the time, it’s like, ‘Can you ship it today?’”
A New Horizon Although frustrated, Ofori is looking forward. In June, she quit her government job and for the first time in her life focused on one career. In August, she bought her studio space — prior she was running her company from her house — and recently hired a lawyer to help with contracts and copyrights. Ofori continues to come up with new designs and focus on her brand’s mission. “I see the women who try my pieces. I see how confident they look, how happy they are. They feel like royalty. So it’s not just me designing for myself. I feel like I design for people.” Ofori recently has been conducting photo shoots at her studio with a professional photographer for anyone who wishes to wear her pieces. She has a hairstylist come in and does their makeup before styling them, too. Her return from New York Fashion Week also sparked a new idea. “What I learned from Fashion Week is I want to bring a full collection out. Because I release all these pieces randomly.” Knowing Ofori, I have no doubt we will be seeing a collection sooner rather than later. Whatever Ofori sets her mind to, she makes it happen. Grace Ofori sells her pieces online. To see Ofori’s products and learn more about TruFaceByGrace visit the website trufacebygrace.com or follow her on Instagram @trufacebygrace. TruFaceByGrace Studio: 7951 Twist Ln. Springfield, VA; trufacebygrace.com // @trufacebygrace
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RADAR | CALENDAR
Beyond the celebration of the famed cherry blossoms, the visual and performing arts — in addition to outdoor festivals and good eats — are central to this month’s events. From a luxe whiskey dinner at Washington’s premiere rooftop bar VUE to the more laidback Pancakes & Booze Art Show, D.C. boasts a variety of experiences to satisfy the palate this spring. GALA Hispanic Theatre and Shakespeare Theatre Company will host thought-provoking performances that grapple with fundamental societal questions, including the meaning of identity and community. Lastly, there’s no better way to enjoy this spring than stepping into the great outdoors at the Anacostia River Festival and Capital Book Fest. COMPILED BY CAROLINE CLIONA BOYLE + BRYAN RODRIGUES-OLIVEIRA
Through 4.3 BLOOM POP-UP LIGHT PROJECTION: “VICISSITUDE”
Robin Bell, renowned D.C. multimedia artist specializing in live video collages, will cast an original, newly-commissioned work onto the 150-foot-tall façade of The Burton apartment building, becoming D.C.’s newest and tallest artistic canvas. Building upon his formal training as a classical printmaker, Bell’s new commission “Vicissitude” is a dynamic work. Like the cherry blossoms, “Vicissitude” is in a constant state of transition with variations tree-by-tree and branch-by-branch, vulnerable to the vicissitudes of weather. Free. 7:45 p.m. The Burton: 200 Florida Ave. NE, DC; theburtondc.com // @theburtondc
Through 4.24 PORTRAITS & PROSECCO BRUNCH
The Great American Brunch tour has landed in the culinary core of our capital city. Portraits & Prosecco is a guided tour inside the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery, followed by a three-course brunch at Dirty Habit. This is the perfect tour for an American presidency enthusiast, aspiring presidential candidate or people who like prosecco. $75. 11 a.m. Dirty Habit DC: 555 8th St. NW, DC; dirtyhabitdc.com // @dirtyhabitdc
Through 4.30 OFFICIAL LAUNCH OF WINE DINNERS AT SLATE WINE BAR
4.1 ENGLISH WITH AN ACCENT
Washington Performing Arts and GALA Hispanic Theatre join forces to co-present the world premiere of “English with an Accent” by Venezuelan-American performing artist Migguel Anggelo, a rising force on the national theatre scene. The piece is a hybrid dance-theatre work of original music that explores self-realization through the eyes of an anthropomorphized, immigrant caterpillar. $40. 8 p.m. GALA Hispanic Theatre: 3333 14th St. NW, DC; galatheatre.org // @teatrogala
4.1-4.2 ROSE: YOU ARE WHO YOU EAT
A shrine of music, image, objects and text, Rose brings together a team of queer artists, including composers and musicians Emily Bate, Daniel de Jesús, Pax Ressler and Be Steadwell with director Mary Tuomanen, to tell the legend of John and Rose. The performance explores this tale through musical styles ranging from art song to 1980s pop ballad, intimate storytelling and a feast of wordplay. The evening also features a concert of original songs performed by a live band and set alongside a garden of images made with filmmaker Christopher Ash. $25-$100. 7 p.m. CulturalDC: 1835 14th St. NW, DC; culturaldc.org // @cultural_dc
4.2 DUPONT BRASS: MUSIC EDUCATION AT UNION STAGE
Slate Wine Bar is officially launching wine dinners. Be on the lookout for new and exciting events each month with some of the best wine makers from around the world. Upcoming events include collaborations with Gonzalo Amigo of Bodegas Madai and Carlos Fernandez Gomez of Bodegas Tierra in March and April. Each dinner will be paired with a five-course tasting menu. $150. Slate Wine Bar: 2404 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; slatewinebar.com // @slatewinebar
DuPont Brass is a unique, soulful brass ensemble hailing from the D.C. metropolitan area. Originally composed of five music majors from Howard University, they have grown to a nine piece ensemble consisting of brass, a rhythm section and vocalists. The performance will also feature local music-makers FutureBandDC and DJ Chubb E Swagg. $20-$40. 7 p.m. Union Stage: 740 Water St. SW, DC; unionstage.com // @unionstage
Through 6.1
Serving Ward 7 residents, this event will be a day of celebration, community and education. East End Market is excited to have a spring market with music, great food, neighbors, face painting, a bounce house, community speeches, small businesses, health vendors and a fire truck. Free. 11 a.m. DC East End Market: 5600 East Capitol St. NE, DC; dceastendmarket.org // @dceastendmarket
LOVE IN THE CLUB: R&B SUNDAY BRUNCH PARTY
Enjoy a late-night brunch party at D.C.’s newest and largest nightlife destination, Adams Morgan’s AIR Restaurant & Lounge. This brunch party will be a bit different — think true R&B vibes by DJ QuickSilva, exquisite cuisine by some of the city’s top chefs and hookah. Upscale attire is highly preferred. Free. 5-10 p.m. AIR Restaurant & Lounge: 2473 18th St. NW, DC; theairdc.com // @theairdc 8
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EAST END MARKET’S APRIL FESTIVAL
NOTE: All descriptions courtesy of event hosts and edited for clarity.
CALENDAR | RADAR
4.2-4.3 JOSEPH - THE REQUESTS ONLY TOUR
Oregon-bred sister trio Joseph (Natalie Schepman, Allison Closner, and Meegan Closner) are best known for their crystalline vocal work and harmonies that suggest a neartelepathic connection among sisters. Experience Joseph’s dreamy folk and pop-rock filled Barns debut. $25. 7:30-8 p.m. The Barns at Wolf Trap: 1635 Trap Rd. Vienna, VA; wolftrap.org // @wolf_trap
4.3 ROSÉ SOIRÉE AT WILLARD INTERCONTINENTAL
Spring is in the air and the Willard InterContinental, in partnership with Château d’Esclans, will host their inaugural Cherry Blossom Rosé Soirée. On the menu are the rosé labels Whispering Angel, Rock Angel and Garrus, in addition to Moët & Chandon Champagne. The evening is topped off with a food station, a breathtaking floral wall and live music. $150-$350. 12 p.m. Willard InterContinental: 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, DC; washington.intercontinental.com // @willard_intercontinentaldc
4.4 WASHINGTON TATTOO GALA ‘22
The Washington Tattoo’s Gala ‘22 will feature the finest music, entertainment, wine and food. Guests will enjoy traditional music performed throughout the winery along with hors d’oeuvres. The evening will conclude with a traditional tattoo performance, in addition to a silent auction with the opportunity to win a trip to Edinburgh, Scotland. $100-$150. 6 p.m. The Winery at Bull Run: 15950 Lee Hwy. Centreville, VA; wineryatbullrun.com // @wineryatbullrun Byrdland Records. Photo by Kimchi Photography.
4.5 BLACK MIDI WITH NNAMDÏ AT BLACK CAT
No second album syndrome and no sophomore slump for Britain’s most exciting and challenging young rock band Black Midi. “Cavalcade,” their second studio album for Rough Trade, scales beautiful new heights, reaching ever upwards from an already lofty base of early achievements. $22. 7:30 p.m. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
CHERRY BLOSSOM JAPANESE WHISKEY DINNER
VUE rooftop bar will host a special Japanese whiskey dinner, complete with a curated three-course meal and pairings from High Road Spirits. From the green tea gin rickey to the shiitake-crusted cod, the entire menu takes inspiration from traditional Japanese ingredients and dishes. For the rest of the season, VUE will feature five distinct cherry blossom-inspired cocktails. $150. 5 p.m. Hotel Washington’s VUE Rooftop: 515 15th St. NW, DC; thehotelwashington.com // @hotelwashingtondc + @vuerooftopdc
4.6 THE VINTAGE ISSUE RELEASE PARTY
From vinyl to fashion, District Fray Magazine is highlighting all things vintage in D.C. for our April issue. To celebrate, we’re cohosting a vintage issue release party with Songbyrd Music House. You’re invited to hang out at Songbyrd and enjoy a drink while the talented minds behind creative brand Shaolin Jazz, Gerald Watson and DJ 2-Tone Jones, play hip-hop classics and other sounds from their music catalog. The DJs will be followed by electro-pop band Too Free, who will play a dynamic set showcasing their punk ethos and DIY backgrounds. $12. 7 p.m. Songbyrd Music House: 540 Penn St. NE, DC; songbyrddc.com // @songbyrddc DISTRICT FRAY |
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RADAR | CALENDAR
4.7 PANCAKES & BOOZE ART SHOW
Supporting the local art scene has never been this tasty before. For 10 years, the Pancake & Booze Art Show has been providing artists across the nation with delicious opportunities to highlight their amazing work and get acquainted with local arts patrons. Pancakes & Booze is excited to host a night of free pancakes, live body painting and contributions from more than 100 local artists. 7 p.m. $15-$20. Hook Hall: 3400 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; hookhall.com // @hookhall_dc
4.7-4.9 LEGALLY BLONDE THE MUSICAL
Omigod, it’s finally here. The Georgetown Gilbert and Sullivan Society is excited to present “Legally Blonde the Musical” as its first live, in-person musical in three years. All tickets include access to a brief happy hour before the performance beginning at 6:30 p.m. $5-$15. 8 p.m. Hart Auditorium at Georgetown Law: 600 New Jersey Ave. NW, DC; law.georgetown.edu // @georgetownlawofficial
4.8 WASHINGTON NATIONALS V. NY METS
The Washington Nationals are starting an exciting campaign in conjunction with 106.7 The Fan FM in which the first 20,000
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fans coming to the ballpark will be treated to new promotions and the return of several fan-favorite giveaways. Fans will have several chances to get their hands on Nationals bobbleheads during the 2022 season, including 2019 World Series MVP Stephen Strasburg and Juan “Soto Shuffle,” plus theme night bobbleheads featuring Soto and Josh Bell. Other giveaway items include World Series cooler totes and Nationals apparel. $28+. 7:05 p.m. Nationals Park: 1500 South Capitol St. SE, DC; mlb.com/nationals/ballpark // @nationalspark
4.9 MARKET MADNESS TABLE TENNIS SHOWDOWN
Union Market District and DC Fray invite you to test your reflexes at this year’s Table Tennis Showdown. Grab your partner and sign up. Bring your poise, concentration, hand-eye coordination, lucky paddles and favorite cheerleaders as you and your team progress through the brackets in hopes of taking home the ultimate first place prize. Various prices. 2 p.m. Union Market: 1309 5th St. NE, DC; unionmarketdc.com // @unionmarketdc
SOUTH AFRICAN WINE TASTING AND DINNER
Join QUEEN for a night of learning, exploring and discovering South African wine. This experience will feature five South African wines, complemented by a traditional dinner with foods including chakalaka, vetkuk and malva pudding. $100. 6 p.m. Sullivan Place: 5575 Vincent Gate Terr. Alexandria, VA; udr.com/washington-dc-apartments/alexandria/sullivan-place // @sullivan_place
CALENDAR | RADAR TRANS/QUEER BRUNCH AT FREDDIE’S BEACH BAR
Looking to brunch in a gender-affirming space? Well look no further than the CAKE Society’s Trans/Queer Brunch at Freddie’s Beach Bar in Arlington. With an unlimited dining experience that includes an omelette bar, desserts and a glass of champagne, this event will not only unite you with a loving group of friends and chosen family but feed you a love-stuffed, family-sized meal as well. Come forge some new bonds and enjoy brunch with a community of people who have your back in the best and worst of times. 10 a.m. Free. Freddie’s Beach Bar: 555 23rd St. S Arlington, VA; freddiesbeachbar.com // @freddieflamingo
4.9-5.21 “SHARED WORDS, SPLIT CATFISH AND SWEET TEA”: AN OPEN PLATFORM FOR DISCUSSION
New York-based artist Azikiwe Mohammed makes his D.C debut with his new exhibition “Shared Words, Split Catfish and Sweet Tea.” This site-specific installation at Transformer Gallery will feature the Auntie/Uncle Julius family as they share a meal around the dinner table. This exhibition will explore the concepts of togetherness, time and dialogue. Free. 1 p.m. Transformer DC: 1404 P St. NW, DC; transformerdc.org // @transformerdc
4.10 ANACOSTIA RIVER FESTIVAL 2022
The 11th Street Bridge Park and the National Park Service present the eighth annual Anacostia River Festival, a premier event and the official closing of the 2022 National Cherry Blossom Festival. Bring a blanket and bask in the sun to celebrate Anacostia Park through live music. Free. 1 p.m. Anacostia Park: Good Hope Rd. + Anacostia Dr. SE, DC; nps.gov/anac // @anacostianp
CHERRY BLOSSOM JUBILEE
Celebrate the cherry blossoms during the height of the Cherry Blossom Festival in the nation’s capital. After Saturday’s cherry blossom parade in the District, stop by the heart of Alexandria the next day to enjoy cherry blossom-themed activities, including a live performance by the taiko drum group Nen Daiko and an exhibition of cherry blossom-inspired works by resident artists. Free. 12 p.m. Torpedo Factory Art Center: 105 N Union St. Alexandria, VA; torpedofactory.org // @torpedofactory
VEGAN DINNER AND SOCIAL
Join the Vegan Dinner and Social for delicious Berlin-style veggiewurst served with sauerkraut, an in-house sauce on a pretzel bun and an Eastern European beer. After dinner, you’ll rotate from table to table to meet everyone at the social. This is a perfect opportunity to meet some friendly folks if you’re new to D.C. $10-$35. 7 p.m. Spacy Cloud Lounge: 2309 18th St. NW, DC; spacycloud.com // @spacycloud
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4.11 JONATHAN VAN NESS AT SIXTH & I
The beloved Jonathan Van Ness is gracing D.C. with his wondrous presence. From the New York Times bestselling author of “Over the Top” and grooming expert on Netflix’s “Queer Eye” comes Van Ness’ candid and curious essay collection “Love That Story: Observations from a Gorgeously Queer Life.” $35-$42. 6 p.m. Sixth & I: 600 I St. NW DC; sixthandi.org // @sixthandi
4.13 QUEER TRIVIA NIGHT AT THE DEW DROP INN
At the Dew Drop Inn, join in on a trivia night that’ll test your LGBTQIAP knowledge and possibly teach you a fun fact that will expand your love of the community. Queerness is a wonderful thing and if you’re interested in diving deeper into this loving abyss, be sure to make an appearance at one of Dew Drop’s most popular gatherings. Free. 10 a.m. The Dew Drop Inn: 2801 8th St. NE, DC; dewdropinndc.com // @thedewdropinndc
4.16 MAH-ZE-DAHR BAKERY’S PETALPALOOZA GRAB-AND-GO
Good things always happen when the cherry blossoms bloom. But who knew it could be so sweet? Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery, their acclaimed founder Umber Ahmad and KNEAD Hospitality + Design are offering special grab-and-go treats to celebrate D.C.’s extravagant Petalpalooza. Known for their tempting variety,
you can expect Mah-Ze-Dahr to offer delicacies like cherry blossom spritzers (sparkling water with cherry syrup) and the limited-edition cherry blossom entremet: a cherry blossom white chocolate mousse with cherry, pistachio sponge, lemon cake and a pistachio glaze. Take in the beauty of the DMV while snacking on sweets so good you’ll wish everyday was Petalpalooza. Free. 1 p.m. Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery: 1201 Half St. SE, DC; mahzedahrbakery.com // @mahzedahrbakery
TRAP WING FEST DMV
It’s chill. It’s delicious. It’s a kickback that’ll leave you stuffed, smiling and dancing to the beats. The DMV Trap Wing Fest is your opportunity to not only listen to great trap music but taste the best wings to come out of Atlanta’s very own Lit Ass Wings. Whether you like it hot or have an inkling toward the mild side, this event caters to all wing fans while playing music that perfectly sets the vibe. $20-$100. 4 p.m. 5017 Herzel Pl. Beltsville, MD; trapwingfestival.com // @trapwingfestival
4.17 LAST CHANCE TO SEE MERCHANT OF VENICE AT SHAKESPEARE THEATRE COMPANY
Catch one of the most captivating Shakespearean productions to hit the DMV while you still can. Based in a city steeped in the ills of antisemitism, racism, misogyny and homophobia, Shakespeare’s “Merchant of Venice” exposes the fissures between fairness, accountability and justice — and who profits from them. Tony Award nominee John Douglas Thompson closes his STC debut as the enigmatic Shylock in this searing portrayal of society’s prejudices and the elusive nature of mercy. Don’t miss out on a performance that has the entire D.C.
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CALENDAR | RADAR theatre scene raving for more. $35-$112. 2 p.m. Michael R. Klein Theatre at Shakespeare Theatre Company: 450 7th St. NW, DC; shakespearetheatre.org // @shakespeareindc
THE NAIL SALON AT ST. VINCENT WINE
It’s a gay cabaret that makes no exception. St. Vincent Nail Salon is a kitschy, glammy celebration of all things queer and the people who make up this wonderful community. Hosted by the legendary DJ Double Dutch, this salon has the best drinks, stellar food and queer entertainers that’ll amaze you with their spectacle and talent. All are welcome to this event. The only criteria needed is to have hot nails and wear them like a boss. $10-$15. 4:30 p.m. St. Vincent Wine: 3212 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; stvincentwine.com // @stvincentwine
4.18 CAPITAL BOOK FEST AT RONALD REAGAN TRADE CENTER
Downtown D.C.’s outdoor, pop-up bookstore returns to Wilson Plaza. Shop thousands of gently used books, CDs, DVDs and vinyl all on sale for six dollars or less. The books are provided by Carpe Librum, a local bookstore benefitting nonprofit Turning the Page. Free. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Wilson Plaza Ronald Reagan Trade Center: 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, DC; rrbitc.com // @reaganitcdc
4.20 INDIGO DE SOUZA AT BLACK CAT
The fact you don’t already have this event pinned on your calendar is a complete tragedy. Gaining momentum as one of indie music’s most stand-out lyricists Indigo De Souza plans on hitting 14th Street’s Black Cat to perform a show that’ll set the standard for all future DMV concerts. Not only does this North Carolina native prove herself as a master of poetic parlance, but De Souza also comes clear as a live performer whose energy and passion knows no bounds onstage. Don’t miss out on an artist set on ruling the music world. $20+. 7 p.m. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. NW, DC; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
WINE DOWN WEDNESDAYS (HALF-PRICED BOTTLES OF WINE) AT KITSUEN
The middle of the week is always such a struggle to get through. Whether you’ve been working a 9-to-5 since Monday morning or showing nonstop love to your passion projects, you need a break. And nothing says relaxation better than some discounted wine. At Kitsuen, the District’s premier Asian fusion hot spot, hump day becomes Wine Down Wednesday: a night where wine bottles are half-off and the food is out of this world. You’ve worked hard this week and have got even more work ahead of you. Treat yourself to a wine night that’ll make Thursday and Friday go by like a breeze. Free. 5 p.m. Kitsuen: 1362 H St. NE, DC; kitsuenbar.com // @kitsuenbar
4.21-4.24 DHARMA GATES DC MEDITATION RETREAT
Everyday experience is full of activities of the body and the mind. It’s where we live and yet understanding the body and
mind and their relationship is not easy. Thoughts, emotions, physical pleasures and challenges all demand our attention. However, the skill with which we apply our attention makes all the difference. Join a four-day meditation retreat where Ayya Dhammadipa will guide practitioners in applying their attention to the framework of the five aggregates — the body and four aspects of mind as they are described in the teachings of early Buddhism. Achieve a sense of self-understanding with a getaway that’ll keep you active and mindful. $150+. Claymont Retreat Center: 667 Huyett Rd. Charles Town, WV; claymont.org
4.23 BATTLE OF THE BRAIDS HAIR SHOW
Join Pearls, Curls & Girls Salon and Spa for the “Nubian is Queen Battle of Braids Hair Show” as they celebrate the beauty of Black hair. See some of the DMV’s top natural hair stylists slay in some of the latest and greatest trends in the Black princess hair culture and beauty experience. Each stylist will feature indigenous as well as new age styles with their own splash of creativity in each head. Who will be crowned queen of natural hair? You can help be the judge. Cash prize and media prizes are awarded to the top stylist. $40-$90. 10 a.m. National Harbor: 201 Waterfront St. Fort Washington, MD; pearlscurlsgirls.com // @pearlscurlsgirls
DC WINE FEST SPRING EDITION
Spring forward with a bottle of wine and some friendly faces. Long View Gallery is hosting a Spring Edition Wine Festival that’s bound to get everyone buzzing like bees. Take advantage of the specially curated wineries ready to serve patrons over a multi-session, all-day and all-night vino experience. This is your chance to sample premium wine to your heart’s content while live entertainment keeps the party lively during this oneof-a-kind experience. Welcome spring’s beauty with wine that’s beautiful in its own rite. $35-$60. 12 p.m. Long View Gallery: 1234 9th St. NW, DC; longviewgallerydc.com // @longviewgallery
“EVERYTHING I DON’T KNOW” WITH MAX DAVIDSON After dozens of performances at George Washington University, up-and-coming magician Max Davidson takes the stage one final time at his undergrad institution. His latest show “Everything I Don’t Know” is about his transition into full-time magic and allows Max to reflect on the absurdity of choosing such a unique career so young, the questions we all ask at this stage of life and what, if anything, we can do about it. Many will recognize “Everything I Don’t Know” from Max’s popular blog and should make their ways to the Jack Morton Auditorium to see it come to life. We don’t know if magic is truly real but we do know Max’s onstage antics are truly spellbinding. $15-$25. 7 p.m. Jack Morton Auditorium: 805 21st St. NW, DC; events-venues.gwu.edu
GET A FREE JUAN SOTO KIDS JERSEY AT THE NATS’ KIDS OPENING WEEKEND
Baseball season is just around the corner and nothing says D.C. like heading to Navy Yard and catching a Nats game. Whether you love the game, the food or the chance to see other District devotees, baseball unites the DMV. And for those out there with a kid who’s as Nats-obsessed as you are, bring them out to Kids Opening Weekend for a chance to win a Juan Soto jersey. DISTRICT FRAY | 13
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A key figure of the 2019 champion team and 2020’s National League batting leader, every Nats kid would be ecstatic to get their hands on some choice memorabilia. $32+. 1 p.m. Nationals Park: 1500 South Capitol St. SE, DC; mlb.com/nationals // @nationals
RECORD STORE DAY 2022
In 2022, there is one Record Store Day: April 23. And at Byrdland Records, they’ll be celebrating all day long with tons of great RSD releases and other fabulous festivities. From 8 to 11 a.m., there’ll be appointment-based shopping for early birds looking for exclusive access to their favorite titles. Appointment fee will be credited against your purchase and there is a one copy per title cap for each customer. Walk-in shopping starts at 11 a.m. so be sure to come by and grab some iconic pressings. $10. 8 a.m. Byrdland Records: 1264 5th St. NE, DC; byrdlandrecords.com // @byrdlandrecords
4.24 FAIRFAX VEG FEST 2022
Vegan, vegetarian, plant-based. Whatever you call your diet, Fairfax Veg Fest is here to show you the best options for DMV non-meat cuisine. Find local sources of eco-friendly and cruelty-free products. Learn about the science behind the benefits of a plant-based diet. This event features expert speakers, cooking demos, vendors and animal rescues — with entertainment and activities for the whole family. Hosted by GreenFare Health and Wellness, this event welcomes all who are interested in starting a meatless monday or going all-in on a green diet. Free. 10 a.m. Northwest Federal Credit Union Headquarters: 200 Spring St. Herndon, VA; greenfare.org
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GODSPEED YOU! BLACK EMPEROR AT 9:30 CLUB
If you ever had a friend whose musical taste was just a million times better than yours, they probably listened to GY!BE. The pride of Montreal indie music and the undeniable titans of post-rock, Godspeed is coming to D.C.’s 9:30 Club to astound the crowd and amaze the critics. Coming off of their recent “G_d’s Pee at State’s End!” album release, this group doesn’t hold back when it comes to performing live and welcomes you to tape their show and spread the love. $35. 7 p.m. 9:30 Club: 815 V St. NW, DC; 930.com // @930club
MAKERS MARKET AT PLANTS ALIVE! IN SILVER SPRING
Plants Alive!’s monthly makers market is back and more enticing than ever. An open air market that features the work of talented local vendors and small businesses, be sure to stop by from 12 to 4:00 p.m. for some amazing vintage and upcycled finds, handmade candles, jewelry, bath and body care, local art and as always, good vibes. They can’t wait to see you there and I bet you can’t wait to support the local artisans of the DMV. Free. 12 p.m. Plants Alive!: 15710 Layhill Rd. Silver Spring, MD; plants-alive.com // @plantsalive
THE NORTHERN VIRGINIA RECORD RIOT!
Don’t actually riot but by all means get excited for Northern Virginia’s Record Riot in Fairfax. Just imagine it: a room filled with LPs and CDs, a great community and fun for the entire family. With amazing wax from punk to funk to hip-hop to country, come on over and find that special LP. $3-$10. 10 a.m. Arlington-Fairfax Elks Lodge: 8421 Arlington Blvd. Fairfax, VA; bpoe2188.org
Byrdland Records. Photo by Kimchi Photography.
CALENDAR | RADAR
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4.30
HYLTON PERFORMING ARTS PRESENTS: ACROBUFFOS
THE COMEDY KARAOKE TRIVIA FUNTIME SHOW WITH DANNY ROUHIER
Umbrellas fly, fabrics soar over the audience, giant balloons swallow people and snow swirls fill the stage with a spectacle the whole family can enjoy. Without words, the Acrobuffos enrapture audiences with a beautiful visualization of air itself. This physical comedy troupe presents a stunning visual poem that brings to life the very air we breathe. Full of color, light and laughter, Acrobuffos takes stage at George Mason’s Hylton Performing Arts Center. Be aware that the use of fog and strobe lights are present during the performance. This is a one-of-a-kind performance in the DMV. $26-$44. 4 p.m. Hylton Performing Arts Center: 10960 George Mason Cir. Manassas, VA; hyltoncenter.org // @hylton_pac
4.28 COMEDY AS A SECOND LANGUAGE
Comedy as a Second Language is back and better than ever at Busboys and Poets Takoma. A live, interactive comedy show that features hilarious immigrant and first generation comedians, tons of fun and laughter is inevitable when these comics share stories and jokes about the lives, families and multiple cultures that make up who they are. Support a side of comedy that’s not only a laugh riot, but also showcases the beautiful cultures that make up the District. $10-$20. 8 p.m. Busboys and Poets Takoma: 235 Carroll St. NW, DC; busboysandpoets.com // @busboysandpoets
“GISELLE” AT THE WASHINGTON BALLET
Support Washington Ballet as they present the iconic “Giselle”: a beautifully tragic and transcendent Romantic era dance piece that tells a story of love, betrayal and forgiveness. A two-act ballet, this showcase follows Giselle, a peasant girl who falls for the charms of the deceitful Count Albrecht. When the truth is unveiled, Giselle dies of heartbreak. But whilst deep in the forest, she rises from her grave and dances with the beautiful and irresistible Wilis. As the spirits of maidens who were wronged by their lovers, they take revenge in the night by compelling men to dance until they perish. In the end, Giselle not only saves Albrecht from the Wilis, but she saves herself from becoming one of them. $54-$130. 7 p.m. Warner Theatre: 513 13th St. NW, DC; washingtonballet.org // @thewashingtonballet
4.29 NÜ ANDROIDS PRESENTS: MALL GRAB
Aussie by birth and based in London, how the hell did they end up in the District? Jordan Alexander — better known as Mall Grab — is a globe-trotting DJ and one of the amazing musicians that D.C.’s Nü Androids collective has welcomed to perform at the A.i. popup venue. An artist who has gone from newcomer to genre staple almost overnight, don’t miss the chance to see this lo-fi beatsmith kill it on New York Avenue. $25+. 10 p.m. A.i.: 2101 New York Ave. NE, DC; nuandroids.com // @nuandroids
Get ready for a one-of-a-kind event. The Capital City Showcase is a variety show hosted by the hilarious Christian Hunt which features the DMV’s best performing artists and presents a unique blend of live entertainment. Put a team together and win prizes by dropping knowledge in a trivia competition, then duking it out in a karaoke battle. This fantastic event is at the phenomenal Highline RxR and features stand-up comedy from the D.C. area’s finest comics. This month’s headliner is the hysterical Danny Rouhier from 106.7 The Fan. Join in on a night of fun that’ll bust your guts and test your niche trivia expertise. $15-$80. 7 p.m. Highline RxR: 2010 Crystal Dr. Arlington, VA; highlinerxr.com // @highlinerxr
DC MARGARITA MARCH
Margarita. A name so sweet you want to say it endlessly. Or at least whenever you’re not drinking one. The D.C. Margarita March is an awesome margarita tasting tour at some of the District’s best venues. Join hundreds of fellow margarita fans as you enjoy a unique iteration of the iconic drink at each venue included in your ticket. Get ready for Cinco de Mayo in style and have yourself a drink that’s been a bar staple since the beginning. $60-$65. 12 p.m. Location TBD; margaritamarch.com
OLD TOWN ALEXANDRIA FINE ART & DESIGN FESTIVAL
Fine arts and local creatives are a dime a dozen at this fantastic Old Town celebration. Ring in the fresh breeze of spring with an Alexandria art fair that features over 100 artisans, crafters, independent consultants and other local small businesses looking to showcase their wonderful products just in time for Mother’s Day. From arts and crafts to jewelry and baked goods to body and hair care, our vendors will help you find unique crafts that’ll make great gifts for the special women in your life. Free. 11 a.m. John Carlyle Square: 300 John Carlyle St. Alexandria, VA; thecarlylecommunity.com // @carlylecouncil
PROJECT GLOW EDM MUSIC FESTIVAL
Global event powerhouse Insomniac and D.C.-based promotions company Club Glow have announced Project GLOW: a two-day electronic music festival from the team behind DJ Mag’s no. 1 ranked venue in the world, Echostage. This event is the first of its kind to take place in the nation’s capital and will offer festival goers a transformation of one of the city’s most prominent recreational hubs by presenting two thoughtfully curated stages of music, exquisite food and beverage offerings and a collection of globally-recognized artists to the RFK Festival Grounds. True to the historic nature of the city, Project GLOW is the culmination of the past 20 years of Club Glow, representing its impact on the D.C. music scene while championing the superstar acts that will take to the new festival stages. $125. 1 p.m. RFK Festival Grounds: 2400 East Capitol St. NE, DC; eventsdc.com/venue/rfk-stadium // @eventsdc
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5.4 STEPHEN SANCHEZ AT DC9
Only 18 years old and already making waves, Stephen Sanchez is a NoCal singer-songwriter who’s gone from singing in his bedroom to taking big stages by storm. After releasing the single “Lady by the Sea” and blowing up on TikTok, Sanchez got a record deal from Republic Records and has centered himself in Nashville to record his debut EP. But while he takes a break from recording, Stephen also maintains a stellar performance schedule that makes a stop at the phenomenal DC9 nightclub. Catch this rising star at a show that’ll go down as one of Stephen’s brightest and earliest pop-star moments. $15-$18. 7:30 p.m. DC9: 1940 9th St. NW, DC; dc9.club // @dc9club
5.5-5.7 KEVIN NEALON AT DC COMEDY LOFT
If you’ve ever laughed at basically any movie to be made in the past 25 years, it was probably a flick that had Kevin Nealon in it. An SNL alum and movie star in his own rite, Nealon plans to the take stage at the D.C. Comedy Loft for a three-night special set to intrigue all of the District’s hardcore comedy fans. Whether he won you over as Franz the Muscular Austrian or Doug from Weeds, there’s no reason not to see this comedic legend as he takes the District by storm. $37. 7-9:45 p.m. The Comedy Loft of DC: 1523 22nd St. NW, DC; dccomedyloft.com // @dccomedyloft
5.7 WOLF TRAP: THE QUEBE SISTERS
Wolf Trap always has the most fascinating performers and there’s no exception when it comes to the Quebe Sisters. Combining the musical stylings of the Mills Brothers, Ray Price, Count Basie and Willie Nelson, these musically-gifted sisters create a unique Americana blend of Western swing, Texas-style fiddling and three-part harmonies that has been performed at concert halls and festivals all over the world. $25. 6:30 p.m. The Barns at Wolf Trap: 1635 Trap Rd. Vienna, VA; wolftrap.org // @wolf_trap
5.8 TASTE OF JAMAICA AT VETERANS PLAZA
All are invited to the annual Taste of Jamaica at Silver Spring’s Veterans Plaza. Arguably your best shot at trying the best of Jamaican cuisine, this event features culinary hits like jerk chicken, curry goat and a whole world of even tastier options. Early bird attendees get a discounted fee of $15 so be sure to hit this celebration as soon as you can. Nothing says delicious quite like Jamaican food. So do your stomach a favor by getting yourself to one of the best food festivals in the entire DMV. Profits support the Jamaica Education for the Poor Foundation and their efforts to buy school supplies for the students of Jamaica. $15-$25. 1 p.m. Veterans Plaza: 1 Veterans Pl. Silver Spring, MD; silverspringdowntown.com // @veteransplazasilverspringmaryland
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5.10 THE MENZINGERS AT BLACK CAT
They’re the band that always lines the walls of your Spotify punk playlist and you have absolutely no complaints about it. Scranton-bred and ready to stir shit up, The Menzingers are the punk band that puppy punks see as the blueprint for a group that’s made it. Whether it’s their place as Epitaph Records veterans or the fact that all the mags rave about their work, The Menzingers have never been doubted as punk icons nor should they ever be. Catch them at the iconic Black Cat before they rock the faces off another lucky city. $25+. 7 p.m. Black Cat: 1811 14th St. SW, DC; blackcatdc.com // @blackcatdc
5.12 PREMIER OF THORTON WILDER’S “OUR TOWN” AT SHAKESPEARE THEATRE COMPANY
STC is back at it again with another revamp of a beautiful classic. Thornton Wilder’s Pulitzer Prize-winning “Our Town” is a play that continues to leave audiences awestruck with wonder and a shared sense of humanity. Guided by an amiable stage manager, the theatre magically becomes turn-of-the-century Grover’s Corners where the occurrences of everyday life reveal universal truths about community and love, life and death. Deeply allegorical and endlessly captivating, this production is directed by STC’s associate artistic director Alan Paul and celebrates the artists who call the DMV-area their home. $49-$112. 7:30 p.m. Shakespeare Theatre Company: Sidney Harman Hall: 610 F St. NW, DC; shakespearetheatre.org // @shakespeareindc
5.14 ANJA SCHNEIDER AT FLASH
There is no one thing that Anja Schneider is famous for. Whether she’s known as the founder of Mobilee Records or her current label Sous Music, this extraordinary producer continues to push and develop talents such as Francesca Lombardo while making her own mark as a stellar musician. And when Schneider isn’t personally touring or in the studio, she can be found broadcasting her weekly show “Club Room” on Radio Eins, showcasing her skills as an electronic music tastemaker to an entire generation of Berliners. Make your way to the District’s Flash nightclub and see for yourself why Anja is the woman that’s currently making electronic jams a force to be reckoned with. $10. 10 p.m. Flash: 645 Florida Ave. NW, DC; flashdc.com // @flashclubdc
HAIM AT THE ANTHEM
You haven’t seen a real show until you’ve seen a band like Haim, who’s sound transcends what they record in studio, Haim is the passion project of three sisters who live and breathe passionate music. Whether it’s their own songs or features with pop icons like Charli XCX, Haim never disappoints and is a wonderful addition to any playlist or festival schedule. Join this phenomenal trio at The Anthem for a highly-demanded second performance that’s set to top the first one. $55+. 7:30 p.m. The Anthem: 901 Wharf St. SW, DC; theanthemdc.com // @theanthemdc
EAT
WORDS BY TRAVIS MITCHELL
EAT Great vegetarian and vegan cooking is full of flavor, color and spice. It can also be comforting, hearty and indulgent (nobody said plants can’t be battered and fried). Across the D.C. area, chefs are finding creative ways to let vegetables and natural ingredients shine on their own, no animal products required. So whether you never eat meat or are just looking to cut back, here are five unique local dishes proving the satisfying power of plant-based cooking.
PANEER KATHI ROLL AT BINDAAS Kathi rolls are the Indian street food equivalent of a burrito, with protein wrapped in a flatbread along with vegetables and spices. At Bindaas, chef Vikram Sunderam makes three versions with one featuring paneer, an Indian fresh cheese. “It’s a nice wholesome dish,” says Sunderam. “It’s like a meal by itself.” The paneer kathi roll is served with a tangy masala sauce made from vegetables and spices including sautéed onions, cumin, chopped tomatoes, chiles, ginger and turmeric powder. 3309 Connecticut Ave. + 2000 Pennsylvania Ave. in NW, DC; bindaasdc.com // @bindaasdc
KOSHARY BOWL AT FAVA POT Egyptian food doesn’t get the same spotlight as other international cuisines in D.C., but fans of meatless eating should get to know koshary, a plant-based entree that’s both hearty and comforting. At Fava Pot locations in Falls Church, Dupont Circle and Union Market, chef and owner Dina Daniel brings the classic African dish to a wider audience. “Koshary is the national dish of my birthplace, Egypt. It’s by far the most famous and authentic representation of Egyptian street food,” she says. Koshary starts with a base of lentils, rice, macaroni noodles and spicy tomato sauce. It’s then topped with chickpeas and caramelized onions. The unexpected mix of carbs and proteins make for a filling vegan meal that packs a big depth of flavor and heat. Fava Pot makes batches daily with fresh ingredients and specially-sourced spices. 1817 M St. NW, DC; favapot.com // @favapot
BEYAYNETU BURGER AT MÉLANGE The vegetarian beyaynetu burger at Mélange is anything but ordinary, thanks to an Ethiopian transformation by chef Elias Taddesse. His signature patty takes inspiration from the Ethiopian dish of the same name, which traditionally features a spread of spiced, stewed and simmered vegetables like lentils, collard greens, chilies and tomatoes. Taddesse partnered with Just AJs, a local company that makes vegan sausages, to create the patty base. That plant protein is folded in together with roasted beets, lentils, garlic, Money Muscle BBQ. Photo by Deb Lindsey.
ginger and turmeric. The sandwich is served up with a classic timatim (tomato and pepper) salad, a spicy spread (misir) of spiced red lentils and a confit of swiss chard. 339 K St. NW, DC; melangedc.com // @melange_dc
NASHVILLE HOT EGGPLANT SANDWICH AT MONEY MUSCLE BBQ Vegans and vegetarians can enjoy chef Ed Reavis’ barbecue without sacrificing on choice or flavor. The Virginia native spent time as a private chef for a vegan NBA star, a challenge he credits with pushing his comfort zone and expectations of what barbecue could be. “Take veggies and make them taste good," Reavis says. “Figure it out. That was really my approach.” That experience is integrated into his menu, offered both by food truck and at All Set Restaurant & Bar in Silver Spring. One of those dishes is the Nashville-style hot eggplant sandwich, a juicy, crispy and spicy bite. He says the vegan spin on the spicy chicken sandwich phase has proved a hit with guests of all types. Money Muscle offers a number of other vegan dishes, including a smoked mushroom sandwich and sides of collard greens and barbecue beans. 8630 Fenton St. Silver Spring, MD; moneymusclebbq.com // @moneymusclebbq
SHOUK SAUSAGE AT SHOUK For Shouk CEO Nussbächer, plant-based eating is about more than just eliminating animal products. It’s also a commitment to serving food made in a kitchen from whole, recognizable ingredients. The local fast-casual restaurant, which already has a vegetarian burger, recently launched a sausage protein. Nussbächer saw sausage being even more challenging than the burger patty in terms of flavor and texture. The protein uses a heavy dose of herbs and spices to create a familiar flavor profile. Nussbächer says the goal isn’t to mimic pork or beef completely, like the more manufactured products on the market. “The objective here is not to fool somebody that they’re eating meat but rather to demonstrate all the cool things that you can do with real vegetables and real beans,” he says. 395 Morse St. NE, DC; shouk.com // @shoukfood DISTRICT FRAY | 19
EAT | FOOD FOR THOUGHT
The Spice Must Flow WORDS BY NEVIN MARTELL | PHOTO BY SCOTT SUCHMAN Spices have been a constant presence in Winnette McIntosh Ambrose’s life. “Seasoning — as we call it back home — plays a huge role in everything we eat,” says the Trinidadian-born owner of spice market-patisserie Souk and French pastry shop The Sweet Lobby, both on Barracks Row. “Whatever it is, it has to taste amazing. That flavor comes from the inventive use of spices. We can’t handle food that is not intensely seasoned.” On the Caribbean island, the most popular way to spice a dish is with “green seasoning,” a made-as-you-like-it blend of fresh herbs such as chives, chadon beni (culantro), parsley and thyme, along with other flavor enhancers: garlic, lemon or lime juice, hot peppers and onions. “Everyone has their own version,” says McIntosh Ambrose. “It is key to season whatever we eat.” It was a cornerstone to her mother’s Creole style cooking, a cuisine rooted in West African traditions. The island’s wider cuisine takes inspiration from the globe-spanning array of cultures that make up its population: Indigenous peoples, the African diaspora, large communities of Indian and Chinese immigrants and transplants from Syria, Lebanon and, most recently, Venezuela. Between such diverse backgrounds, myriad spice traditions are at play. Given this emphasis on internationally-minded seasoning, Souk feels like a natural — if not nearly inevitable — element of McIntosh Ambrose’s arc as a culinary creative. After opening The Sweet Lobby in 2011 to much acclaim, and a trophy- winning turn on Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars,” she needed a new space to expand her wholesale pastry production. Scoring a spot just down 8th Street SE, she wondered what else to do with it. “My husband and I are avid travelers so we asked ourselves, ‘How do we bring travel into a venture of some kind?’” she says. “What do we love when we travel? A big part of that is food.” She decided it would become a patisserie fusing French technique with global flavors and a spice shop inspired by her strolls through the souks (markets) of Dubai and Morocco. These days, Souk stocks over 150 spices from more than 30 countries, in a panoply of forms: leaves, seeds, flowers, powders, roots, salts and peppers. Some are well known — heady curls of cinnamon, sharp tipped cloves and crimson threads of saffron — while others are less known, like borage leaf and lemon myrtle. “We’ll stock in lower quantities a few unusual things that people ought to be exposed to,” McIntosh Ambrose says. Many of the spices appear in the shop’s custom tea blends. Others are incorporated into pastries. Vanilla bean perks up canelés, breakfast buns are rich with cinnamon, caramelized onion biscuits hide mustard seeds and springy cherry blossom season inspires cookies imprinted with preserved Sakura flowers imported from Japan. The last two years have been grueling for the business, which McIntosh Ambrose pivoted in multiple ways, including offering pizza and subscription boxes for the first time, creating a now-permanent walk-up window, doing away with indoor seating to install a long pastry display counter and adding some sidewalk seating. 20 | APRIL // MAY 2022
On top of that, the spice business faces a host of existential challenges — from the pandemic’s impact on producers and supply chain disruptions to climate change, catastrophic weather and conflict disruptions to growing operations. The latter makes it difficult for McIntosh Ambrose to source Aleppo pepper from civil war-torn Syria, while storms in Madagascar, where most of the world’s vanilla is grown, drove up the price of a single vanilla bean from less than $5 when Souk opened in 2015 to roughly $15 for consumers today. Despite it all, McIntosh Ambrose has remained adaptable and inventive, with strong seasoning always at the fore. In recent months, the pastry case has featured pearrosemary-frangipane tarts, pistachio-rose pound cake and cheddar-scallion biscuits speckled with black sea salt. Souk: 705 8th St. SE, DC; dcsouk.com // @dcsouk The Sweet Lobby: 404 8th St. SE, DC; sweetlobby.com // @thesweetlobby
Storing Spices: Do’s + Don’ts 1. Figure out a storage solution, such as a cabinet, drawer, shelving or magnetic containers secured to the side of a fridge. A cool, dry place is best. Don’t store spices near heat, like the stove or exposed to direct sunlight. 2. Store them in airtight containers. McIntosh Ambrose prefers 1–2-ounce clear glass jars. One exception: If a spice will be kept for more than six months, use airtight tins to help prevent degradation from light exposure. If storing in custom containers, label spices with their name and date of purchase. 3. Keep spices organized so they are easy to find. Consolidate or discard duplicate spices. Every six months or so, check your spices to ensure they haven’t lost their flavor. McIntosh Ambrose recommends having an easy-toaccess collection of oft-used spices on the countertop.
Behind The Photo A kaleidoscopic selection of Souk’s spices: astragalus root, mace, orange peel, turmeric, green cardamom pods, beet powder, rose petals, bee pollen, black Hawaiian sea salt, jasmine, pink peppercorns, dried chives, echinacea, pink Hawaiian sea salt, Vadouvan curry and butterfly pea flower.
DISTRICT FRAY | 21
DRINK VINTAGE BOOZE + VIBRANT FOOD
Inside Chicken + Whiskey, a dual concept spot that’s unapologetically itself
WORDS BY JAMES LISKA
“Variety is the very spice of life, which gives it all its flavor,” or so goes William Cowper’s 1789 poem “The Task.” I feel this strongly when it comes to food and drink. I’d jump off a cliff if I had to eat and drink the same thing every day. Luckily, we’re somewhat spoiled in a city like D.C. where there’s always someplace new to go for a drink or for dinner. I admit I’ve passed by Chicken + Whiskey probably a hundred times. I never really gave it a thought, to my discredit. It was close to the end of my usual northbound, after-work stroll up 14th. Despite the attractive name, I passed it by — until now. The name is straightforward and fun. One can be forgiven for thinking the two are meant to be consumed together — a plate of fried chicken, perhaps, and a Seagram’s and soda on a paper cocktail napkin — but in fact this place has two discrete concepts under one roof.
Chicken The first half of this double-sided coin of deliciousness is the restaurant, a fast-casual spot directed by head chef Enrique Limardo. Trained at tony establishments in Spain, Venezuela and Barbados, Limardo is the coowner of Seven Reasons and developed both Immigrant Food and Imperfecto. His culinary resume is extensive and he’s described as a “chicken god.” He and his team have assembled a menu that picks, chooses and melds styles from around the South American continent: Peruvian chicken, yucca fries, wraps with various ingredients, plantains and roasted corn, Colombian spices or Venezuelan arepas. Anyone unfamiliar with an arepa needs to correct this oversight immediately. One of my favorites is this season’s special, the comadre: a delicious and savory arepa packed with pulled pork, plantains, jalapeno peppers and drenched in warm aji amarillo. Their chicken, made fresh, is brined for 12 to 24 hours and seasoned with a secret blend of spices and peppers, then cooked over mesquite charcoal. A modestly-sized steel rotisserie spins denuded birds “pollo a la brasa” which you can buy in halves or whole to go. In Chicken + Whiskey’s compact, open kitchen, the team sets to work preparing made-to-order dinner orders. It’s like Cava or Chipotle in the sense you “follow” your order as it’s built, watching as tortillas, multicolored veggies, peppers and sauces are combined to make magic. After your meal is prepared and you’re ready to check out, you can peruse a galvanized tub in front of the register from which South American beverages are sold: Jarritos, Cusqueña and Inca Kola, to name a few. I grabbed a Cusqueña, a light and malty beer from Peru. Chicken + Whiskey. Photos courtesy of location.
I purposefully sat facing the cook, watching him use big metal shears and bear claws to methodically disassemble various cooked chickens. It’s almost mesmerizing watching the deft movements practiced a thousand times. This easygoing, casual place has the clockwork of fine dining but the charm of a paper napkin, plastic cups kind of place. There’s a spot to stack your trays on the way out and Cusqueña is right out of the bottle.
Whiskey A short walk past the bustling, lively kitchen leads to the end of a short hall to a freezer door. Without the small window, one might be hesitant to open up lest they find themselves in a walk-in fridge. There’s nothing cold about what’s beyond — this stainless steel portal leads into a rustic, concretefloored cocktail bar. A few high-tops occupy the space immediately to the left, with vintage ceramic light fixtures and exposed-filament Edison bulbs providing gentle mood lighting. The entire back half of the space is a long, double-shelved bar bookended with industrial metal cages. Spirits line these walls, illuminated from below by lights. There’s seating both at the bar and in the surrounding walls and a small DJ booth where guest jockeys can draw from a house library of vintage vinyl. Classic masters like the Commodores and Def Jam to funky releases I’ve never heard of fill boxes and wall sconces, all provided by DJ Dirty Hands — a 20-year veteran of the D.C. music scene. Seated at the bar, I scan the offerings, recognizing familiar bottle shapes. Beyond the usual stuff — Bulleit, Tito’s, Jameson, Jim Beam, spirits the industry refer to as “call brands” — they’ve got some unusual options. I’m noticing the djinn bottle of a pot still Willett, the tall slender bottles of Stranahan’s and plenty I’ve never heard of. They’re the only place that brings in 291 Colorado Whiskey and they’ve partnered with Catoctin Creek to make their own unique bottling. Beverage director Tony Burke has really put forth great effort to bring in unique and interesting libations. What surprised me in my usual visual survey of the bar was a placard announcing a “whiskey of the week” — in this case Craigellachie, a single malt Speyside Scotch. This is certainly an unusual suggestion, and in a good way. Made on the banks of the River Spey 40 miles from Inverness, Scotland, Craigellachie is a smaller brand of Scotch with a limited bottling each year. I admit I’m surprised to see Craigellachie listed as “whiskey of the week” in the back room of a chicken joint.
DISTRICT FRAY | 23
DRINK | 202 PROOF The cocktail program is small, but fun: They offer a PB&J cocktail; a highball using the delicate Suntory Toki whiskey paired with a guest’s choice of citrus; and South American riffs on familiar classics, some using local spirits like Dan Ziegler’s famed Chacho aguardiente. They make a few prebatched cocktail kits for purchase to go and have a few more secret projects on deck I’m not allowed to disclose.
Cash Out Chicken + Whiskey has been described as having multiple personalities with the back bar vibe changing from day-to-day depending on who’s spinning vinyl and what’s being slung. Intense effort is put into the presentation here, but it’s natural. Organic. Big corporate outfits spend a ton of time and money figuring out their identity and working to perfect it. Chicken + Whiskey is unapologetically itself. Some nights it’s a college basement dance party, other nights happy hour. Nothing here feels forced or overwrought. Patrons can enjoy one or both experiences. The food up front, served until late at night, hovers around $12 for wraps and $10 for arepas — decently affordable, especially in comparison to some of the pricier places on 14th. They’ll be opening two new locations, one in Southeast D.C. near the Nationals Ballpark and another in Columbia, Maryland. If you’re in the mood for vintage vinyl, affordable eats and a broad spectrum of whiskey, you’ve got some options. Chicken + Whiskey: 1738 14th St. NW, DC; 202-667-2456; chickenandwhiskey.com // @chickenandwhiskey 24 | APRIL // MAY 2022
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MUSIC
THE WAXING + WANING OF
WORDS BY TRENT JOHNSON | PHOTOS BY KIMCHI PHOTOGRAPHY
Alisha Edmondson, co-founder of Byrdland Records and sister location Songbyrd Music House, just had her groceries delivered. Because of the commotion brought about by fresh produce and foods shuffled in the background, she’s speaking to me with her camera off as she and fellow co-founder Joe Lapan recount the story of how their initial location in Adams Morgan came to be.
“Years before we opened [in 2015], I remember telling Joe how lucky we were that we grew up without digital,” Edmondson says. “That our friends and I had communal experiences with music and that it earmarked times in our life.” I tend to prefer Zoom conversations to phone calls because it allows me to see people’s faces. It helps me answer internal questions such as what makes them smile when talking about themselves — or conversely, what makes them furrow their brows? These nuances often shed light in ways words don’t. However, these subtleties weren’t essential when listening to Edmondson. The passion bled through her voice as she recounted her and Lapan’s initial ideas for founding a musiccentric business, including a revelatory experience at a Classic Album Sundays session in Brooklyn, New York. “We closed our eyes as they re-did the listening experience to how [The Beatles’] ‘Sargent Pepper’ was created — we just listened,” she continues. “I think it kind of brought home this idea we had and solidified how much we liked the concept of going back to listening. How do you translate going back to listening in a physical place? How do we get people to listen in a group setting again?” In its infancy, Songbyrd Music House and Cafe, a small-ish building in Adams Morgan, and progenitor to Byrland, housed both a record store and a venue. Think of a Swiss Army knife containing all those little blades and metallic tools within its narrow handle. Songbyrd was like this for the D.C. music scene, only instead of utility knives it combined and celebrated music. Eventually, and undoubtedly exacerbated by the Covid-19 pandemic, the diverse menu of Songbyrd needed to be split up and separated so each could continue to flourish and grow. This necessity became a driving force behind the duo’s decision to move the business to Union Market, allowing for an open-air, more spacious Songbyrd located a stone’s throw away from its sister storefront Byrdland Records, the record store. Despite the unavoidable difficulties brought about by moving locations, dealing with Covid restrictions and shifting each shop’s responsibilities, both Edmondson and Lapan have continued to highlight the aspect most important to them: A community of people listening to good music.
Moving, Expanding + Evolving One of the first questions I asked Edmondson and Lapan was if they felt at home in Union Market. After more than five years in Adams Morgan serving as a huge proponent for neighborhood happenings, the duo opened Byrdland Records in Northeast in late 2020 with Sonbyrd moving nearby in late summer 2021. “I feel like the businesses are very communal,” Edmonson says. “We do collaborations and some of our regulars live over here, too. During the pandemic, people shifted around a little bit. Having Byrdland first, we were able to create relationships over here.” Lapan agrees, saying Union Market is a little wider and freer than other areas, with less congestion than other parts of the city. For example, Byrdland Records carries more than 5,000 vinyl records and houses turntables, speakers, cartridges and other equipment any vinyl lover would want to have. As for Songbyrd Music House, the venue can host up to 200 people and houses a bar and restaurant. These concepts used to be housed under one roof. “A lot of time in the city, depending on where you are, you can feel constantly smushed by tight
Three Need-toKnows: Starting a Record Collection the Byrdland Way
spaces,” he says. “I think Union Market is a relief from that.” Both say Covid-19 played a factor in their business moving 1. INVEST IN A DECENT TURNTABLE neighborhoods, with things “For $130-$150, we can get you shutting something not terrible,” Lapan down and says. “Records can be expensive and opportunities valuable, so invest in a turntable with opening up. For a decent needle and a counterweight. the record store That’s very worth it.” component, Lapan says it felt 2. THINK ABOUT WHERE like a core piece YOU’RE GOING TO STORE YOUR of the business RECORDS that could continue through “You have to keep them protected the pandemic via and clean,” Lapan says. “This doesn’t e-commerce and have to be some fancy thing — it careful internal can just be a designated shelf. Be planning. prepared to take care of them. Set “In Adams yourself so you can put them back Morgan, we were in their sleeves and plan on where to doing everything keep them.” in one space and for a while, we 3. DON’T BE SCARED TO START lived with the WITH USED RECORDS fact that half “We have a whole used area and we’re of the business constantly building that,” Lapan was in one place says. “If you’re building a collection and the other and are fearful of the cost side of it, half was in you can start building a really nice another,” Lapan collection based on used records. says. “I think It takes a little time sifting through our objective used records, but that’s supposed to was always for be the enjoyable part.” them to live near one another. That’s an ideal scenario.” Despite this, Edmonson says there weren’t imminent plans to move Songbyrd — even after the opening of Byrdland. But as time went on and the pandemic persisted, change was necessary in order to optimize safety for customers and attendees. The pivot was extremely quick and emotional. Despite the best intentions, particularly with safety in mind, moving all of Songbyrd out of Adams Morgan was a difficult process for both Edmonson and Lapan. “I spent a lot of time in that neighborhood as a younger person and the place meant a lot to me — we put a lot into the community,” Lapan says. “By the time we got to where we got to, it was just a move we needed to make for our business. So, we were at peace with it at that point. The whole journey of being a small business owner is emotional. A lot of the emotion in Adams Morgan was spent across the six years dealing with the older building.” “We had a short announcement period,” Edmonson adds. DISTRICT FRAY | 27
MUSIC “We were doing shows at the old location and then announced the move and moved everything in essentially a week. We have a wonderful team who have been with us for years who helped make it happen.” Regardless of its physical location, the vibe hasn’t changed. From helping customers identify records worth having to putting on listening parties and celebrating local artists with concerts, Songbyrd and Byrdland have carried on the goals conceived in 2015. “Obviously, it’s very enjoyable to fulfill [your goals] and have a business where you’re engaging with people around music,” Lapan says. “People are pretty much happy when they come and leave your store. It’s music; it’s the highest expression of being a person.” Edmonson says the goals for Songbryd and Byrdland are different now: With Byrdland, it’s about guiding people through starting a record collection and for the venue, she mentions seeing performers persevere with sold-out shows. “It’s still hard,” she says. “But I think all of those things showed me this was the right move. In December, we could roll up our doors and keep fresh air in; we made the right decision.”
A Bug That Never Left Me Edmonson grew up with an affinity for vinyl and music, recounting the time when her father cranked Jimi Hendrix after he converted a wine-cooling closet into a sound room. Lapan says his first vinyl memory was more traditional, mentioning the mystique of his parents’ collection and playing records when he wasn’t supposed to. “I don’t recall engaging with my parents on what to do with records,” Lapan says. “My formative musical experiences were actually more around tapes and CDs with my friends. I’m a kid of the late ’80s and early ’90s. I remember going to the ‘record store’ and trading tapes and CDs.” Lapan says records have maintained their status for a number of reasons, even saying it’s the “king of the physical medium.” He cited the durability, sound, size and packaging as primary reasons for its sustainability. “You’re not going to put tape liner notes on your wall,” he says. “The opportunities for the art and the packaging make it more interesting and collectible. When you’re able to trigger people’s ideas of visible and physical art, you’re able to tap into a whole thing beyond a product which is more about lifestyle, identity and what represents you.” Edmonson cites the ritual of playing a record. She says the acts of looking through your records, deciding what to play and placing the needle are what’s missing from other music mediums. Listening to each explain their history and adoration for records wasn’t a surprise since they’re now owners of a thriving record shop in a major metropolitan city. In fact, the initial plan was for the vinyl to be front and center with an adjoining bar area; the live music Songbyrd is now known for wasn’t in the pair’s initial plans. “Music was a bug that never left me,” Lapan says. “I just remember paying attention to everything, the city and the landscape. When you’re conceiving an actual physical space, you have to map out what you want to do, what are you going to do? We’ve always had an intent to retail records as part of the original concept.” 28 | APRIL // MAY 2022
Despite the growth in popularity of vinyl, Lapan is frank when discussing the finances of running a record business. Like any other small shop, it’s rife with difficulties ranging from pricing to negotiations. Though being on the other side of the counter hasn’t made Lapan or Edmonson “rich,” the two are grateful for what vinyl records have afforded them. During Covid-19, Edmonson says records became a way for fans to support bands who suffered from an inability to tour. But vinyl became a comfort in other ways during the pandemic. “To me, changing your record is kind of like walking to your water cooler when you’re working from home,” she says. “I think a lot of people were looking for ways to manage their work balance from home. I know I enjoyed my 23-minute breaks.”
Separate But Related When Songbyrd first shut down due to the restrictions in 2020, Edmonson and Lapan sought a way to connect with the community they helped build through Songbyrd and have grown with Byrdland. At first, it was through collaborations with José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen and in other local initiatives. The two also began operating the Byrdmobile, a truck where musicians would play in the bed of the vehicle outside. “The first time I cried,” Edmonson says. “Little kids were coming out of their homes with masks on and it was 4th of July with no one doing anything.” The feeling Edmonson got on that day, where people escaped their homes to enjoy just a sliver of live art, is the goal for moving forward. She wants to foster a sense of community and pride in what can be accomplished locally in the District. “We want to do parties for local musicians putting vinyl out, clothing pop-ups at Songbyrd, etcetera,” Edmonson says. “I feel like we’re so lucky to still be here, so how do we give back in ways we can. We have space and we have community.” With D.C. and the federal government loosening restrictions for gatherings and live events, the sister stores may finally be able to use the new facilities with a truly effective synergy. “There’s a lot of synergies between live music and vinyl that we look to explore and marry,” Lapan says. “Beyond the obvious, we have a ‘Played at Songbyrd Section’ at Byrdland and we carry a ton of local musicians’ music. There are a lot of ways the stores complement each other.” At the end of the day, Edmonson and Lapan are first and foremost about the music. Not just the aspect of buying and selling or hitting the play button, but active listening. “You’re engaging with people around music and it’s awesome,” Lapan says. “Getting to be in those moments and with that perspective, seeing the store busy. You get to have some feeling of what it took for you to get there and it’s all very enjoyable.” For more information on Songbyrd Music House and Byrdland Records, visit songbyrddc.com and byrdlandrecords.com. You can follow them on Instagram and Twitter @songbyrddc and @byrdlandrecords. Byrdland Records: 1264 5th St. NE, DC; byrdlandrecords.com // @byrdlandrecords Songbyrd Music House: 540 Penn St. NE, DC; songbyrddc.com // @songbyrddc
THE BYRDLAND PLAYLIST We asked Byrdland co-owner Joe Lapan to create a vintage playlist of his favorite retro songs across genres. Check out what made the list below, and visit District Fray’s website to download our Spotify playlist. 1. “STAGE FRIGHT – LIVE AT THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC /1971” BY THE BAND Capturing a classic rock/jam band at an important live performance is definitely of some vintage significance. 2. “SHO NUFF” BY LEON BRIDGES One of our current throwback soul superstars who authentically channels the vintage vibes. 3. “CHAN CHAN” BY BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB There’s something severely nostalgic, timeless and enchanting about classic Cuban sounds. 4. “SUZIE Q” BY CREEDENCE CLEARWATER REVIVAL CCR’s version of the rockabilly standard that oozes vintage. 5. “BODHISATTVA” BY STEELY DAN I’m a Steely Dan “Stan” in no small part to what their musicality and innovation provided to the hip-hop canvas. 6. “NASTY GAL” BY BETTY DAVIS
9. “HEARTACHE TONIGHT” BY THE EAGLES Love ‘em or hate ‘em, the Eagles are a country-blues-rock-pop sensation that was definitely in my parents’ collection. 10. “I WISH IT WOULD RAIN” BY ARETHA FRANKLIN The Queen of Soul covers The Temptations, enough said. 11. “PELOTA (CUT A RUG MIX)” BY KHRUANGBIN Khruangbin might be the most timeless artist we have right now, simultaneously retro and futuristic. 12. “I’M FREE (HEAVEN HELPS THE MAN)” BY KENNY LOGGINS Anything from the Footloose soundtrack evokes big-time nostalgia from most music lovers of my age.
I’m terribly nostalgic for 1990s “Golden Era” hip-hop and especially the artists and songs that draw from the Roy Ayers catalog of samples. 19. “MEET ME AT THE GO-GO ” BY HOT, COLD SWEAT In D.C., it’s impossible to talk about important music or vinyl records without a classic go-go track. 20. “WE’RE NOT GONNA TAKE IT” BY THE WHO
Early reggae/ska sounds are just so transcendent of any time period or mood.
21. “CASTLES IN THE SAND” BY STEVIE WONDER
7. “PRETTY GIRL” BY BO DIDDLEY
15. “ALL NIGHT LONG (ALL NIGHT)” BY LIONEL RITCHIE
Final album with Jim Morrison, who spent formative years in Fairfax, Virginia.
18. “SEARCHING” BY PETE ROCK & CL SMOOTH
Tapping directly into the vintage nostalgia of the “Almost Famous” era.
14. “SUN IS SHINING (OVER YOU)” BY LEE “SCRATCH” PERRY
8. “L.A. WOMAN” BY THE DOORS
A soul-jazz pioneer with ties to the D.C. area as well; along with Roy Ayers and others, Smith provided a rich trove for hip-hop sampling.
13. “GOOD FEELING” BY JACKIE MITTOO
R&B and funk pioneer that we lost this year but who is credited with paving the way for generations of female artists to get funky.
A guitar blues-rock legend who many people don’t know spent a lot of time in D.C. in the 1950s and 1960s.
17. “FOOTPRINTS” BY LONNIE LISTON SMITH & THE COSMIC ECHOES
We lost Lee Perry this year and his music deserves a spot on almost any playlist.
An album that gives me nostalgia for the record collection my parents had and one I bet everyone else’s parents had, too. 16. “UNDER MY THUMB” BY THE ROLLING STONES
Young Stevie, the ultimate surf/soul nostalgia blend. 22. “FOR ONCE IN MY LIFE” BY STEVIE WONDER Stevie is the only artist who deserved two songs on this list. 23. “DOLLAR BILL BLUES” BY TOWNES VAN ZANDT TVZ’s catalog has been mined heavily in providing rugged vibes to some of the best movies and TV shows of our lifetime.
Classic early Stones.
DISTRICT FRAY | 29
LESLIE ODOM JR.
FINDS HOME
ONSTAGE WORDS BY NICOLE SCHALLER
Despite receiving accolades for his roles in film and television, including portraying Sam Cooke in “One Night in Miami” and starring in “Harriet” and “Murder on the Orient Express,” Leslie Odom Jr. still finds he is most at home when returning to the stage where he got his start and performing live. On April 30 at the Hylton Performing Arts Center, the Grammy and Tony Award-winner who is on the road to EGOT status will take the stage to perform a medley of music. In the slow unfolding toward normalcy, nothing feels more apropos than celebrating live music’s comeback with one of Broadway’s biggest stars of the last decade. We had a chance to catch up with Odom about what he looks forward to when visiting the DMV area, his “Hamilton” days and the key to a great Philly cheesesteak. District Fray: As an actor, singer and writer, what can audiences expect at your upcoming show at Hylton Performing Arts Center? Leslie Odom Jr.: A party. Live shows are my favorite and the only real time I get to connect with the people we make all this stuff for. I did 500 shows as Burr between the off-Broadway and Broadway runs of “Hamilton.” But more people watched “Hamilton” on Disney+ in the first weekend it was available than all the sold-out crowds put together in New York. The streamers have more reach without question, [but it] doesn’t change the fact that performing live is my favorite. At the live show we’ll do Broadway, jazz, R&B and some traditional pop. We never want people leaving without a smile on their faces. Walk me through a typical tour day. Do you have any preparation rituals before performing live? I try to get a good night’s sleep the day before. Rest goes a long way in making sure my voice will have the stamina to last through a 75-minute show. I will have a soundcheck and/or a rehearsal with the musicians in the concert space or hall. My college voice teacher will lead me through a vocal warm-up on FaceTime. I grab a light bite and maybe a workout before showtime, say a prayer and then we hit it.
Are there any places you would like to visit in the D.C. area before leaving? I’ve been to D.C. a bunch but I’ve never made a special trip to see the cherry blossom trees in all their splendor. Last time I was there, a D.C. native made me promise I’d include it on my next trip. Leslie Odom Jr. Photo by Jimmy Fontaine.
You performed at the White House with the “Hamilton” original cast almost exactly six years ago (March 2016). What do you remember about that experience? It was the honor of my career. We were invited and given private audience with the leader of the free world. We had the undivided attention of President Obama, the First Lady, their staff and special guests. The art mattered that day.
“Central Park” season two is currently airing on Apple+. How does voice acting differ from other forms of acting? It doesn’t really. While the audience sees the creative rendering of the character designed by our expert animation team, the work we do in the vocal booth is as physical and requires the same investment as live-action work. Animated sitcoms historically can run for multiple seasons. What do you look forward to about continuing to play the “Central Park” character Owen Tillerman? [I’m] always looking for ways to improve [my] portrayal. I’m always looking to deepen. I hope we get time to tease out all the humanity we can from these characters over many, many seasons. With your growing list of roles played both onstage and in television and film, is there one character who still sticks with you? If so, which character and why? Burr. Without a doubt. “Hamilton” shook up the world and changed our lives in the process. I’ll be grateful for my association with that material for as I long as I live, I suspect. And most importantly, as a fellow Pennsylvanian who grew up in the Philadelphia area, what makes a great cheesesteak? The seasoning on the beef, quality of the cheese and freshness of the roll. Get your tickets for Leslie Odom Jr.’s live show in the DMV on Saturday, April 30 at 8 p.m. at Hylton Performing Arts Center at hylton.calendar.gmu.edu. Hylton Performing Arts Center: 10960 George Mason Cir. Manassas, VA; hyltoncenter.org // @hylton_pac DISTRICT FRAY | 31
WHERE TO SHOP VINYL IN THE DMV
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Blue Groove Soundz There is never a lack of activity in Arlington and the same goes for the city’s beloved Blue Groove Soundz. This independent record store in Arlington hosts an eclectic mix of music genres but primarily specializes in jazz, soul, funk and R&B music. 5852 Washington Blvd. Arlington, VA; bluegroovesoundz.blogspot.com // @bluegroovesoundz
Boops Records Based in Alexandria, Boops Records is a mobile record-buying store that purchases any and all genres of vinyl, including classic rock, R&B, heavy metal and more. 4900 Eisenhower Ave. Alexandria, VA; sellmyrecords.weebly.com // @boopsrecordsva
Bump ’n Grind Coffee Shop and Record Store This café and record store combo in Silver Spring attracts a circle of people who love music and food. Discover new music while relaxing in the ambiance of a chilled-out coffee shop. The store occasionally hosts live mix sessions ranging from funk to jazz. 900 Wayne Ave. Silver Spring, MD; bumpngrind.co // @bumpngrind_coffee_records
Byrdland Records An out-of-sight record shop from the team that brought you Songbyrd Music House, Byrdland Records is the go-to D.C. spot for all your popular and niche tastes. Whether you want something local or something you can hear on the radio, Byrdland can serve wax to all the vinyl fanatics who make up the wonderful District. 1264 5th St. NE, DC; byrdlandrecords.com // @byrdlandrecords
WORDS BY BRYAN RODRIGUESOLIVEIRA + CAROLINE CLIONA BOYLE Don’t tell me you’ve never been vinyl shopping in the DMV. With so many amazing record shops to choose from, not partaking in the region’s dynamic wax culture isn’t only a mistake, it’s downright foolish. Whether you love rock, jazz or vibe with local sounds like go-go, the D.C. area is the perfect spot for anyone who loves a pristine sound. District Fray is happy to provide the definitive list on the best shops to visit. 32 | APRIL // MAY 2022
CD Cellar “Bet you can’t just buy one.” While this homepage quote may be a playful tease from Falls Church’s CD Cellar, there’s no question moderating your vinyl haul is no easy feat at this amazing hot spot. A store rooted in diversity and exploration, CD Cellar is perfect for the vinyl fan looking to find something new. 105 Park Ave. Falls Church, VA; cdcellarva.com // @cdcellarva
Cool Kids Vinyl
exquisite albums, flash-from-the-past comic books or vintage music mags from a number of iconic eras, this H Street standout does exactly that: stand out. 1351 H St. Maketto Upstairs, DC; coolkidsvinyl.com // @coolkidsvinyl
Crooked Beat Records There’s no need to break your back looking for those must-need rare vinyls. At Alexandria’s Crooked Beat, all your micro-niche and avant-garde tastes can be found in a collection maintained by some of the DMV’s most devoted wax junkies. Take a trip over to their storefront and dive into the obscure side of vinyl music. 802 N Fairfax St. Alexandria, VA; crookedbeat.com // @crookedbeatrecords
El Donut Shoppe Based here in the District and down south in sunny Orlando, El Donut Shoppe is a vinyl shop whose catalog is too sweet to pass up. Consisting of all things vintage and spanning genres you’ve never even heard of, this shop is for those looking to indulge. Take a trip over to their New Hampshire Avenue location inside Dupont’s Yours Tuly DC Hotel and relish in their collection of sweet, sweet “donuts.” 1143 New Hampshire Ave. Ste. A NW, DC; eldonutshoppe.com // @donutshoppe
Gumbo Records Who knew the best albums could be found in a back alley? Gumbo Records is your next destination for hard-to-find vinyls and ambiance that’ll keep you coming back for more. Rooted in the sounds of blues and jazz, this D.C. staple is a must-have on just about every D.C. vinyl shop tour. In Alley 900 Block Shepherd St. NW, DC; @gumborecords
HR Records Short for Home Rule, HR Records is the uptown spot for music that is jazzy, soulful and unapologetically D.C. Unfamiliar with the stellar legacy of gogo music? Do yourself a favor and take a trip to HR. Your D.C. music education starts at a shop that’s versed in the best of our home rule. 702 Kennedy St. NW, DC; homerulerecords.com // @hrrecords
It’s not just a name. Cool Kids Vinyl really is the pop culture tastemaker of the DMV. Whether you’re looking for Love People Records. Photo courtesy of location.
Joe’s Record Paradise It isn’t clear whether heaven is a place on earth, but when you’re a vinyl fanatic at Joe’s who can really tell the difference? Joe’s Record Paradise is a Silver Spring storefront eager to get their hands on all sorts of music and pass it on to the greater DMV. Variety is the mark of a great vinyl shop and at Joe’s it’s a guaranteed perk with your stay in paradise. 8700 Georgia Ave. Silver Spring, MD; joesrecordparadise.com // @joesrecordparadise
Joint Custody Fellow children of divorce: There is no need to panic. While typical joint custody has always been a strain on us, D.C.’s Joint Custody is a record shop that’ll put you at ease with their impressive collection of apparel, vinyl and artistic souvenirs that would make Keith Haring proud. If you’re looking for great vinyls, by all means stop by. But if you’re looking for an experience then get over here already. JC is waiting. 1530 U St. NW, DC; jointcustodydc.com // @jointcustodydc
Love People Records It’s no secret an undying love for community and music is what drives Kensington’s Love People toward being the music fanatic’s favorite vinyl shop. Started by a wonderful couple with deep roots in the DMV’s DJ culture, Love People is their chance to educate their kids and the entire region on what beautiful music sounds like. Love is romantic. Love is familial. But it’s also musical. 3758 Howard Ave. Kensington, MD; lovepeoplerecords.com // @lovepeoplerecords
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Memory Lane CDs and Records This District Heights music shop is a haven for vinyl and CDs, specializing in R&B and jazz. Anyone with an affinity for rare groove, ’90s music and D.C. electronica will feel right at home at Memory Lane. 2809 Walters Ln. District Heights, MD; memorylaneonwalterslane. blogspot.com // @mlwl2809
Mobius Records Mathematically, the Möbius Strip is a plane of space with absolutely no end. And more importantly, Mobius Records is a vinyl shop with a fabulous collection that has no end. From hard rock to electro to music soundtracks, this Fairfax staple will answer any vinyl inquiry with an astoundingly confident “Yes, we have it.” 10409 Main St. Ste. D Fairfax, VA; mobiusrecordshop.com // @mobiusrecordshop
Record Exchange Silver Spring Family-owned and staying strong since the 1970s, Silver Spring’s Record Exchange is the kind of record shop that’s an essential in every community. Not only do they provide a music catalog worthy of praise, but they are also the authority on all things fandom. With their presence, there’s no telling how many citizens of the DMV are going to become movie buffs, vinyl geeks or connoisseurs of TV memorabilia. 151 N Market St. Frederick, MD; recordexchangeofmd.com // @recordexchange__frederick_md
catalog that’s this good, you’ll be crying tears of joy rather than tears of onionchopping irritation. 4208 Gallatin St. Hyattsville, MD; redonionrecords.com // @redonionrecords
Smash! When it comes to the best providers of wax, leave it to the punks. Smash! Records is the punk rock answer to the District’s vinyl needs. While they do cater to an entire range of different sounds and styles, it’s Smash’s rock n’ roll spirit that makes them such a positive authority on all things vinyl. Don’t think. Don’t take caution. Get yourself over to Smash! and let loose. 2314 18th St. NW, DC 2nd Floor; smashrecords.com // @smashrecordsdc
Som Records This 14th Street record store staple has stood the test of time in downtown D.C. Hosting one of greatest varieties of new and used vinyl in D.C., the store’s specialty ranges from electronica to go-go to folk music. 1843 14th St. NW, DC; somrecordsdc.com // @somrecordsdc
Sonidos Music & More At its core, the Maryland-based record store Sonidos is about creating a community around discovering new music. When you buy, sell or trade vinyl at Sonidos, you’ll join a circle of music lovers who find comfort in new sounds. 11011-B Baltimore Ave. Beltsville, MD; sonidosmusicshop.com // @sonidos.musicshop
Spin Time Records You can visit this D.C. record store from anywhere in the city. As one of the few online-only record stores in the District, Spin Time Records is a haven of music representing D.C.’s many subcultures, from go-go to punk and indie. spintimerecords.com // @spintimerecords
Vienna Music Exchange This Virginia-based vinyl shop is locally famous for its selection of new and rare metal, punk and rock records. The store also has its own music label, Maniacal records, that has produced tracks since 2001. 131 Church St. NW Vienna, VA; viennamusicexchange.com // @maniacalrecords
Records & Rarities Between vinyl, video games and comic books, Northern Virginia’s Records & Rarities is a boutique that specializes in an array of vintage collector items. In addition to classic rock, the store also has a wide selection of metal and punk albums. 6500 Springfield Mall Springfield, VA; recordsandrarities.com // @recordsandrarities
Red Onion Bite into the stinging goodness of Red Onion Records. Based in the dynamic and burgeoning enclave of Hyattsville, this record shop is your go-to for collection essentials and deep cuts that seem nowhere to be found. With a 34 | APRIL // MAY 2022
CD Cellar. Photo courtesy of location.
FOUR VINYL PROS TO FOLLOW
David Fogel OWNER, BUMP ’N GRIND Vinyl’s lifeline: I think there are a few things keeping vinyl culture alive. First and foremost, it’s an amazing artistic format, from audio to visual. People want real things in their lives and a connection. We can all celebrate a song together, regardless of whether it’s played via digital or hard format — but it’s hard to have a meaningful connection with an MP3. Conversely, holding a record, enjoying the art and sharing it with others is incomparable. For us at Bump ’n Grind, inspired by DJ and digging culture, there’s also the fact that a lot of music (including our own label BnG Wax) is only released on vinyl. Tips for beginners: Dig. Head into shops, spend some time at the listening stations and enjoy discovering new music. Who’s carrying the torch: Record sales are soaring so lots of labels are pressing vinyl. I always recommend folks check out vinyl only labels, which nearly every genre has and DJs who play records. It’s a special skill set and there’s simply something different about watching a DJ dig through their bag, find “that” record and play it over the system — as opposed to looking at a computer screen or USB stick. Especially when that record crackles: You know that record has been shared with a lot of other people, eliciting that same vibe. Locally, I’d recommend people check out vinyl-dedicated bars like Neptune Room, Showtime and the Green Zone. Learn more at bumpngrind.co and on Instagram @bumpngrind_coffee_records.
David Giese OWNER, CD CELLAR Vinyl’s lifeline: For the die-hards, there’s so much more available on vinyl now. Reissues and remasters of the classics can make listening to familiar favorites a whole new experience. For the newbies, it’s a fun, new way to listen to, collect and appreciate music. People of all ages are really into sharing their recent purchases, collections and current favorite artists on social media sites. Vinyl is really bringing people together, just like music always has. Tips for beginners: Follow your local record stores on social media. We love to show off all the cool stuff we get in. Get to know your local merchants, let them know what you’re interested in and what you like. Most of us love to help folks discover new artists and help build collections. At my shop, we have a large “new arrivals” section which is where I suggest folks start browsing; all the really desirable titles are bought from that bin before they get filed in their respective sections. Shop early, shop often. Who’s carrying the torch: It seems like everybody is working hard to keep the vinyl game strong; audiophilequality labels like Acoustic Sounds, Pure Pleasure, Tone Poet and MoFi are putting out quality vinyl. The indie labels like Sub Pop, Relapse, Merge, Dischord, Electric Cowbell, Third Man, re: discovery and Light in the Attic
are continuing to release great music and we’re starting to carry labels that are putting out beautiful pressings of classic soundtracks. Honestly, I could come up with dozens more. Far too many to mention. Learn more at cdcellarva.com or on Instagram @cdcellarva.
Quartermaine “Q” + Rita “DJ Reets” OWNERS, LOVE PEOPLE RECORDS Vinyl’s lifeline: As everything is cyclical, vinyl is just making a comeback. Collectors never went away and lots of record stores have continued to survive amidst this age of digital music. People are finding the enjoyment and pleasure of having something tangible, being a collector and showing it off. There’s so much more to collecting than just buying a record. The experience in having a classic record with liner notes or rare poster/art is unmatched compared to buying digital music. There is pride in vinyl and more young people are beginning to see the value in that. Tips for beginners: Check out a local record store and start digging. The excitement in finding a record you’ve been meaning to check out or even realizing one exists is part of the fulfillment of adding to your collection. Chat with the store owners and other diggers about what’s popular and what’s rare. Be sure to learn good vinyl care and handling. And have fun. There’s something out there for everyone. Who’s carrying the torch: J Scienide, Griselda Records, Soul Assassin Records and Alchemist. Learn more about Quartermaine and Rita on Instagram @thequartermaine and @rita.amf. Learn more about Love People Records at lovepeoplerecords.com or on Instagram @lovepeoplerecords.
Neal Becton OWNER, SOM RECORDS Vinyl’s lifeline: Increased demand from people getting record players. It started before the pandemic, but lockdown sent it into overdrive. Tips for beginners: Depends on your budget. Most shops have dollar (or cheap) bins where you can take a chance on stuff you may not know. Most record store employees are pretty knowledgeable so you can tell them what you like and they can point you in the right direction. There are loads of websites with reviews and/or sound clips as well so you can check stuff out before you go shopping. Who’s carrying the torch: Everyone right now. A few years ago, the only people still putting out vinyl were small indie labels, really popular bands and DJ-centric record labels. Now the problem is demand is outstripping the ability to keep up. Unfortunately, some of the small indies who kept vinyl alive are now having to wait behind the major labels to get their records pressed. Learn more about at somrecordsdc.com and on Instagram @somrecordsdc. DISTRICT FRAY | 35
The Dance Hall Spontaneity of
TOO FREE WORDS BY TRENT JOHNSON
When I fired up the Zoom chat to speak with D.C. electroindie dance band Too Free, I didn’t expect to step into a virtual family reunion. Like cousins racing toward one another to catch up in a lush park, all three members of the outlet behaved as if they were long-lost friends from a prior life conversing. First came Don Godwin’s gaze of awe when he saw lead vocalist Awad Bilal’s bright green hair, which shared a similar shade with that of the Grinch. “Whoa, when did this happen?” Godwin said. “We haven’t done this yet. It’s f--ked up. It’s been two years since we’ve been on a Zoom.” Second was Godwin and Bilal’s visibly belated joy when Carson Cox joined the chat from Florida where he relocated 36 | APRIL // MAY 2022
during the pandemic. The three were unsurprisingly more interested in catching up with one another than listening to me field questions, but frankly their conversation was more enlightening than anything I’d be able to pull out of them based on listening to their 2020 release “Love in High Demand” — and viewing a 2020 video interview by Rolling Stone, which featured an MTV Cribs-esque walk and talk at certain D.C. spots. In fact, that prestigious write-up and multimedia feature occurred just before Covid-19 began wreaking havoc on our society. In the coming months, music venues shuttered, tours were canceled and groups of artists were forced to adapt as inperson jam sessions became less safe. Because of this, Too Free kind of paused.
“We all had to reassess priorities,” Cox said. “For each one of us, it meant a different thing. We’re all in a different place [but] in the year-and-a-half we were making ‘Love in High Demand,’ we made so much stuff.” “We have so much material,” Godwin affirmed. Despite the crew being physically apart, the three’s mind meld has remained intact, leading to scintillating dance tracks that manage to effortlessly fuse electronic sounds reminiscent of ’80s action flicks with Bilal’s soothing, free-flowing voice, which I can only describe as incredibly sexy. So while the pandemic forced Too Free to change how they physically create and cultivate their music, it hasn’t changed their mental and spiritual approach. Too Free. L to R. Don Godwin, Carson Cox + Awad Bilal. Photo by Emily Geller.
District Fray: What was it like to be featured in Rolling Stone relatively early in your time together? Don Godwin: [We] went up to the big city in the offices and they had a very old-school newsroom vibe. Carson Cox: It felt like being in a Netflix documentary. Awad Bilal: I remember they had a giant Aretha Franklin Rolling Stone cover and it was really remarkable. Godwin: They were really generous with us. They came down and interviewed us in Awad’s grandmother’s house and walked around with us in the neighborhood. Cox: The next day everything shut down. DISTRICT FRAY | 37
MUSIC What was it like to have this huge coverage breakthrough and then be unable to capitalize on that promotion?
There’s something about the authenticity of what happens when we come together. My education exploded when I got to D.C.
Godwin: It felt like a blow but at the same time, once we got a chance to reassess [after] Carson moved to Florida, it revealed itself as the best of all worlds. We’re all seasoned touring vets and there’s an insistence in the music industry that things remain very structured. The more independent things get, the more structured and product-oriented people get. We saw ourselves being corralled into that from the jump and the break gave us an opportunity to look at what we were doing.
One thing that comes up consistently in how you guys create is the concept of spontaneity. I’m curious if you’ve been able to maintain that with the pandemic.
Cox: I think we all come from an affinity for underground culture and music and what we make wouldn’t be possible without that underground. So, in some ways being in Rolling Stone was cool but it was all periphery for me. In some ways, we created this crazy force without anything; it was just ourselves. Too Free is like a secret club everyone gets to peer into occasionally. Nothing is tangible in this world and you can’t hang onto anything for very long. It was tough because we had to be separate for a while. Bilal: It knocked the wind out of me, honestly. It immediately felt very trying. Godwin: When we made this music, it was very clear it was going to be something people could dance to and a way to create community. That’s the thing that really got robbed from us. We were anticipating a lot of beautiful moments with people. Cox: On the flip side, I’ve done a lot of tours and gotten burnt out on a record and that hasn’t happened with this record. Bilal: We’ve only played two or three times since the record came out so it’s a little bit different. Godwin: Oh my god. That’s crazy but it’s true. In the video feature, you all mention how vital D.C. is in the making of the music of Too Free. How do you feel the city bleeds through your tracks? Bilal: Well, outside of the actual musicality on the record, yes. It’s polyrhythmic and has all sorts of different tones and styles that aren’t specific to D.C. — but it’s bred here. In terms of how the city feeds that music, it’s really a continuation of existence to me. That soul of what the city was, but also the future of the city and what it can be. There’s so much work to be done and to be able to put that into my music and push that forward is a blessing. Yeah, it’s incredible.
Cox: It’s more structured and goal-focused and a little less “doing whatever.” A little bit of focus definitely doesn’t hurt us, but different people work different ways so I’ll personally record forever and forever. Plus, Awad doesn’t write anything down so there’s never-ending source material. Godwin: Carson’s “always be recording” ethos and Awad’s textual spontaneity is a really amazing match because of Awad’s “first thought, best thought” [mentality]. They’re so pure. Bilal: Yeah, it’s incredible reading the lyrics on that record because it’s like, “I remember all of this and I remember this day, this person.” Cox: In a way, the 2020 reality check was good for us because it felt like maybe the “magic moments” were too good. So while it’s difficult to let go of that, it’s nice to be able to lean into the reality of our situations. I can’t wait until the minute when we can do our stupid shit again; I miss it dearly. Godwin: Spontaneity will always be a fundamental aspect of our relationship and it’s just governed by our ability to be in the same place at the same time. Our process has always been based on us setting up scenarios and having time to do whatever we want. How did you settle on the very unique sound you share? Godwin: It’s purely all of us making the music we wanted to make. Bilal: That’s it. Godwin: I feel like there was always a compromise if you’re with a group, but this is the first group I’ve ever been with when I didn’t feel that need. All in, everything works. Bilal: I haven’t compromised a thing. Cox: Anytime we would jam, we would have microphones up. The vision isn’t even complete yet. Lastly, listening to the record really reminded me of old ’80s action movie scores mixed with this dance hall sound. Is that a crazy observation?
Cox: There’s this power coming into D.C. and you can hear all the music that is everywhere. The sounds just permeate throughout the city and you’d walk around and hear stuff all the time.
Bilal: Really? [Laughs] I think that’s just how you’re supposed to sound.
Bilal: Even though I have white bandmates, I still feel like we make distinctly Black music. I feel like it’s forward-thinking Black music. That’s a big part of it and I think holding onto that Blackness in the layering of vocals and how hard the drums and bass hit is very important.
Bilal: Why wouldn’t you sound like that when making this type of music? You should be able to have fun with it and do whatever you want to do. Just don’t make it boring.
Cox: I’d been struggling to make house music for a long time. It wasn’t until Awad started singing over it that it began to sound like house music to me [laughs]. When you talk about electronic music or house music, you have to understand the people who paved the way were Black musicians. 38 | APRIL // MAY 2022
Cox: This is why our band works. Because of that statement.
Check out the never-boring music of Too Free on Spotify. You can learn more about the band at toofree.bandcamp.com. Follow them on Instagram @toofreedc.
Relax responsibly®. Corona Extra®and Corona Premier® Beers. Imported by Crown Imports, Chicago, IL.
Shaolin
Jazz: REMIXING HIP-HOP
+ JAZZ WITH A
KICK WORDS BY COLLEEN KENNEDY + PHOTO BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III
The 2008 Thai martial arts film “Chocolate” strikes out with an unusual premise: an autistic teenage girl learns the art of Muay Thai by watching old films. The movie was recently shown at Songbyrd at Union Market for the monthly “Can I Kick It?” film series, an experience where DJ 2-Tone Jones of Shaolin Jazz live mixes a movie soundtrack scene-by-scene for action flicks. On this night, the live-music soundtrack overplaying the film is killer, emphasizing the emotional scenes and punctuating the fight sequences. Janet Jackson, Joni Mitchell and Q-Tip mournfully sing together on “Got ’Til It’s Gone” during a sad flashback scene, J Dilla’s “Ice” blasting as the protagonist defeats the baddies in an ice plant and even the loser’s horn from the game show “The Price is Right” during a pratfall. With a title that nods to both A Tribe Called Quest and the footwork of kung fu, “Can I Kick It?” is a postmodern pastiche of jazz, hip-hop, visual arts and martial arts that Shaolin Jazz has been hosting in the District for more than a decade. Jones and his partner-in-creativity Gerald Watson, however, have served as cultural ambassadors, enterprising events coordinators and creative producers of immersive events since 2003.
Rock With You In 2003, DJ 2-Tone Jones was suggested as a last-minute replacement for the usual DJ for an event organized by Gerald Watson, while he was working for the Atlantabased magazine FRANK151. Jones was pretty fresh to DJing, but his professionalism and his set — De La Soul, A Tribe Called Quest, Wu-Tang Clan, MF Doom and more — impressed Watson, who contacted him shortly after for another event. “He and I have been rocking ever since,” Watson shares. 40 | APRIL // MAY 2022
Their infamous collabs include Artz & Craftz (2004-2009), a monthly pop-up first started at Penang Malaysian Cuisine before moving to Common Share where Watson invited different artists to exhibit and Jones played vinyl during a happy hour vibe. Or AM Radio (2007-2012), an event where visual artists selected by Watson created works in real time inspired by and inspiring Jones’ DJ set. Watson then came up with a new idea: “The Classics: An Album Cover Art Exploration” (2010), held at Lounge of Three on U Street, celebrating the artwork of iconic vinyl record covers. Each night was
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focused on a different genre with records from Jones’ extensive collection of over 3,600 records displayed like art with Jones or guest DJs spinning that night’s genre of music. Watson, a graphic designer, also created a fully immersive edutainment package for each event including videos and posters he designed, a history lesson on the genre, themed cocktails, a pre-released mixtape and interviews with music producers, label owners and artists who designed album covers. The intended last genre for “The Classics” was dedicated to R TO L. Gerald Watson + DJ 2-Tone Jones.
jazz in November 2010 and they interviewed the graphic artist Logan Mills Walter who redesigned Wu-Tang album covers in the distinctive style of vintage jazz records for The WuNote Project. They also discussed “Enter the Magical Mystery Chambers,” a Wu-Tang Clan and Beatles mashup created by a U.K. school teacher. “That was the lightbulb moment,” Watson notes. “That was when Shaolin Jazz came to be.” DISTRICT FRAY | 41
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Enter Shaolin Jazz Watson conceived a Wu-Tang/jazz mashup and asked Walters to design a jazzy album cover and Jones to conceptualize and materialize the tracks. After eight years of creating art and musical events together, Jones and Watson became Shaolin Jazz, named after the 1983 martial arts film “Shaolin and Wu Tang” that inspired the name of the legendary hip-hop collective. Shaolin is also the Chinese monastery: home of both Chan Buddhism and Shaolin kung fu philosophy and fighting, the mind and the fist, contemplation and action. But they added “jazz,” another layer of sophistication, dynamism, innovation and collaborative artmaking to their mix. “I went into the lab, did some brainstorming,” Jones shares. “I played Gerald one track: Wu-Tang’s ‘C.R.E.A.M.’ with a blend with this brother Jneiro Jarel who flipped Pharoah Sander’s track called ‘Astral Traveling.’” On the first listen, Watson knew this wasn’t just another popculture remix but something new and transformative. “This was real art,” he realized. ‘We had something special.” For the next five months, Jones continued production on the record and Shaolin Jazz released “The 37th Chamber,” titled after Wu-Tang Clan’s iconic debut “Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)” in March 2011. There’s something so seamless about the intermingling of the cadence of jazz horns, the flow of lyrics, the clash of symbols punctuating emphasized verbs as Shaolin Jazz ascends into artistry. Shortly after several listening parties around the District, NPR’s jazz editor Patrick Jarenwattananon took notice and wrote about the mixtape, asking if there was ever a jazz collective comparable to Wu-Tang. “And then I guess the comparison question made us start comparing jazz and hip-hop on a bigger scale,” Jones says. “My first response is there is no jazz equivalent to the Wu-Tang Clan, no group of nine jazz musicians who were all just as strong whether in a collective or in their solo careers.” But Watson and Jones also noticed the parallels. The way MCs flow — their rhythms and rhymes — are not unlike certain rhythmic devices used in jazz. Both Black American musical forms are also known for improvisation, from freestyle rapping over a set beat to the new melodies constructed over a repeating refrain in jazz. A professor at Temple University who heard the NPR story called Watson and invited Shaolin Jazz to speak about the mixtape. With a whole class session to fill, they developed a presentation about the historical interweavings and cultural connections between jazz and hip-hop. Over the next few years, Jones and Watson continued “The Shaolin Jazz Lecture Series,” comparing 1920s jazz and 1980s breakdancing styles — as well as 1930s and 1990s media depictions decrying jazz or gangsta rap as creating a generation of criminals and thugs.
10 Years Later Shaolin Jazz branched out into multiple ventures in 2011 and a decade later they are busier and more popular than ever. In 2011, Shaolin Jazz L!ve started as a Thursday night weekly jam session with Jones leading and spinning along with Sound of the City Band at Bohemian Caverns, and they were soon invited as the first DJ-led headliner for the storied Blues Alley Jazz and Supper Club in Georgetown. They’ve since performed at the REACH at the Kennedy Center, B.B. King Blues Club 42 | APRIL // MAY 2022
& Grill in Times Square and in 2015, became the the first grantees of the DC Commission on the Arts and Humanities’ Sister Cities International Arts Grant for an international musical and cultural exchange between Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and Washington, D.C. creating musical workshops and performances — including opening the U.S. Embassy’s new technology center. “That has to go down as one of our top [achievements],” Jones says. Shaolin Jazz recently celebrated its 100th “Can I Kick It?” film screening this February. The connections between martial arts films and 20th-century Black culture has a long history, from Jim Kelly co-starring in the undisputed greatest film of the genre “Enter the Dragon” (1973) to the disco song “Kung Fu Fighting” by Carl Douglas the next year. By the time Wu-Tang Clan selfmythologized as a collective with kung fu-inspired lyrics and monikers, the ideals and philosophies seen in so many martial arts films — honor, reputation, self-determination, discipline, rising up from humble beginning to vanquish oppressors, defiance against corrupt powers and fraternal loyalty — were deeply embedded in popular Black culture. “Those of us who grew up watching kung fu theatre on Channel five or Channel 20, we understand those references,” Watson, ever the cultural historian, explains. “There’s a lineage that comes into play, from superheroes to kung fu films to rap artists and what inspired them.” With DowntownDC BID, Shaolin Jazz started showing the “Can I Kick It?” series on the National Building Museum’s great lawn during the summer month. “CIKI?” is now also hosted at Songbyrd as well as other spots, including the National Museum of Asian Art, Creative Alliance in Baltimore, New York City, Denver and an upcoming visit to Jones’ hometown of Charlotte, North Carolina for the classic “Enter the Dragon.” “We do what we do, highlighting these intersections between jazz, hip-hop and martial arts through different mediums,” Watson shares on how Shaolin Jazz successfully stays on-brand while creating can’t-miss events. “We have our voice and we know who we are and what we do.”
Revisiting “The 37th Chamber” In celebration of the last decade of Shaolin Jazz, they released “The 37th Chamber” on vinyl with a record release on Friday, January 14 at Byrdland Records. They only pressed 300 copies: 100 for the store and 200 for online sales. After announcing, the duo received such an enthusiastic response Jones jokes they know they’d be sorting through thier back catalog for future releases. They plan to release the vinyl for their album “Byrd Over Staten,” a mixtape created in 2015 that blended jazz fusion trumpeter Donald Byrd with Wu-Tang’s lyrics. There are upcoming collaborations with local artists — currently hush hush — and future tours for Shaolin Jazz L!ve and “Can I Kick It?” “We have so much more we’re looking forward to doing for the folks that have been rocking with us all this time,” Jones says. “More of what we’ve already been doing — but more to come, too.” Learn more about Shaolin Jazz at shaolinjazz.com and follow them on Instagram @shaolinjazz.
THE PROS + CONS OF MAKING THE RAMONES
YOUR TODDLER’S FAVO R I T E BAND WORDS BY BRANDON WETHERBEE
PHOTOS BY NICOLE SCHALLER
DISTRICT FRAY | 43
MUSIC | GROWN-UP THINGS This was not planned. I love the Ramones. I’ve played in multiple bands that covered the Ramones. But they’re not my favorite band. The Ramones are my toddler’s favorite band. We played the kid everything. Stuff we love, stuff we tolerate, stuff we also discovered along with the toddler (We got into Calypso in April 2020 for some reason). The Ramones were around the 100th band we played for them and for the last year and a half, it’s difficult to get through the day without them screaming, “MONES!” I am mostly in favor of my kid gravitating toward four guys from Queens. Before I go any further, I am not saying this is cool or uncool. I could care less about what this says about me as a parent. I care quite a bit about having an artist I can play to prevent, stop or end tantrums. If the kid loved Beyoncé or Billie Eilish or Green Day this much, we’d play them Beyoncé or Billie Eilish or Green Day. We are not forcing this band on the toddler nor are we actively encouraging only listening to a group that’s equal parts Phil Spector and The Stooges. Toddlers do not care about cool and I care about making my kid quiet and/or happy. Having the Ramones as your child’s favorite band is very useful and quite easy. Useful because the songs are danceable, the catalog is large, it’s easy to dress up like the band (dress-up is important to toddlers) and there’s not a ton of variety in the music. Most everything from the first four records is great, the next three are really good, the following two are good and the rest we ignore. It’s easy because their popularity hasn’t waned since the group’s inception. In fact, they may be bigger now than when they were active (1974-1996). Without sabotaging each other professionally and personally, they live on in ideas and logo more than on stage and record. It’s easy to hear the band’s music (more specifically the first 30 seconds of “Blitzkrieg Bop”) in radio and TV ads, see their logo (or a play on it) on shirts and, if you’re in Fort Totten, take a photo in front of a mural inspired by the cover of their self-titled debut on the side of D.C.’s best burger bar Slash Run. Speaking of their self-titled debut, it’s sonic perfection: 14 songs clocking in at under 30 minutes, all tracks under two minutes 30 seconds, all playable with a small set of power chords with a crisp production. The 1976 LP is tales of breaking into shows, beating up brats, taking drugs, inflicting violence, male prostitution and Nazis presented as ear worms. Which is both good and bad. Do I want my toddler to think it’s OK to beat up rich kids? Sniff glue? Stab johns? No, of course not. Do I want my toddler to understand the best songs are sometimes the simplest songs, that literally anyone with a guitar or bass can make amazing art? Absolutely. My toddler does not know or care about the personal lives of the band members. It’s for the best. If they did, there would be way more marks in the con column (alcoholism, heroin use, twenty year feuds, an ill advised rap career, etc.). 44 | APRIL // MAY 2022
But a family friend recently gifted us a children’s book about the Ramones. Now they are learning about the personal lives of the original four. All of the “real” stuff is omitted: all of the sex, drugs and sadness that fueled every aspect of the group. Instead, it reads like most children’s stories. But unlike Santa or the Easter Bunny or Curious George, the Ramones are real — and unlike Santa or the Easter Bunny or Curious George, sooner or later my kid is going to figure out the story behind “53rd & 3rd.” That’s the long and short of loving a band like the Ramones. For all of the valuable lessons in each uplifting song, there’s an equally depressing real life anecdote. Most successful organizations, groups or bands are made up of people from different political ideologies. Joey and Johnny Ramone definitely did not align politically. Before his death Joey Ramone mocked George W. Bush. At the band’s 2002 Rock & Roll Hall of Fame induction Johnny Ramone said sincerely, “God bless President Bush and God bless America.” But the Reagan-loving Johnny did go along with recording the last great Ramones song, 1985’s “Bonzo Goes to Bitburg,” a protest song against Reagan’s visit to the Bitburg military cemetery in Germany, where Nazi soldiers are buried. Johnny went along with the recording when it was decided it would be released as “My Brain Is Hanging Upside Down (Bonzo Goes to Bitburg)” in the U.S. It’s a great example of compromise and art winning. That’s a lesson I want my kid to learn. I want my kid to be friends that don’t always politically align like Johnny and Joey. I also want my kid to hear songs that honestly reflect Reagan’s politics. The four original Ramones are all dead. Only one made it to his 60s. Frontman Joey Ramone passed away at 49, a year short of getting his AARP card. The band did not illustrate healthy living, respecting personal boundaries or fading away. A few members were alcoholics, one died of a heroin overdose, another “stole” someone’s girlfriend. Sooner or later, my kid will either stop enjoying the best punk band from the ’70s (The Stooges count as the ’60s) or, if they’re anything like their parents, want to learn as much as they can about the inner workings of the group, the songs and, maybe most importantly, the stories behind the songs. If life lessons are learned because of this band, I’m cool with it. I’d rather teach my kid about homophobia (“53rd & 3rd”), class warfare (“Beat on the Brat”), chemical dependency (“We’re a Happy Family’’), the falsehood of trickle down economics (“Bonzo Goes to Bitburg”), questionably problematic words that were once OK (“Rock ‘n’ Roll High School”), gun control (“End of the Century” produced by Phil Spector) and the importance of eating a varied cuisine (“I Just Want To Have Something To Do”) at a young age than listen to shitty music.
GROWN UP THINGS | MUSIC
MY TODDLER’S TOP 10 RAMONES SONGS 10. “PINHEAD,” “CRETIN HOP,” “PSYCHO THERAPY.” These three are tied because they warrant the same reaction: a hips-based shimmy brought on by a similar chord structure played at a similar BPM, all between 88 and 105. 9. “DO YOU WANNA DANCE.” The three drum hits before the guitar, bass and vocals hit give it a slight leg up on other Ramones’ classics. The “Do-you-do-you-do-you-do-you-wannadance?” delivery is also appealing to people learning language skills. 8. “I JUST WANT TO HAVE SOMETHING TO DO.” My kid enjoys definitive starts and stops. That’s the first 20 seconds of this song and every chorus. Am I influencing this list? Of course. I have to listen to stuff I like, too. 7. “THE KKK TOOK MY BABY AWAY.” More definitive starts and stops, more heys and hos and, for better or worse, my kid now sings about the KKK. We’re against the KKK. Very against the KKK. Also, key changes. This song has a key change. Toddlers love key changes.
6. “I WANNA BE SEDATED.” The group’s biggest MTV hit either pulls you in in the first five seconds or you know it’s not for you. It’s definitely for my kid.
2. “BEAT ON THE BRAT.” If my kid ever uses a bat on another kid, I’m going to get blamed. They sing along whenever Joey sings the words bat and brat.
5. “BLITZKRIEG BOP.” This was their favorite song for a year. It was all we could listen to in the car. Thankfully, there’s four different mixes of it (and two live versions) on the 40th Anniversary Deluxe Edition of the Ramones’ “Ramones.” The best is the 40th Anniversary Mono Mix, disc 1, track 15. It’s the only one with Dee Dee’s “1-2-3-4!” at the top and it sounds like you’re in the same room as the band. When you listen to four slightly different versions of to the same song hundreds of times, you develop preferences.
1. “SHEENA IS A PUNK ROCKER.” It’s requested as “Punk rocker!” We play it often because it’s a kid’s song. It’s about kids. It’s about choosing your identity, your tribe. There’s call and response in the verses. There’s ohs and ahs and oh yeahs background vocals. There are jingle bells (or at least bells that sound like jingle bells). There’s about 25 words in the entire song. This is an “adult” version of “Wheels on the Bus.”
4. “BONZO GOES TO BITBURG.” I have no idea why this one does it but it sure does. One of the few political songs in the catalog, I hope the kid doesn’t revolt later in life and become a modern day Alex P. Keaton. 3. “ROCK ‘N’ ROLL HIGH SCHOOL.” Specifically the album version. They do not like the music video version. I wonder what they think goes on in high school.
Looking to check out some Ramones? Check out these local punk picks. Joe’s Record Paradise: 8700 Georgia Ave. NW, DC; joesrecordparadise.com // @joesrecordparadise Smash! Records: 2314 18th St. NW, DC; smashrecords.com // @smashrecordsdc Som Records: 1843 14th St. NW, DC; somrecords.com //@somrecordsdc
DISTRICT FRAY | 45
Cassie Taggart, Fly Me To The Moon (detail), 2020
MAY 20–22 Reston Town Center Now in its 31st year, the Tephra ICA Festival, formerly Northern Virginia Fine Arts Festival, will showcase more than 200 artists who are creating unique, handmade works in the fields of fine art and craft. With a foundation in contemporary visual art, the Festival is comprised of one-on-one experiences with artists, public performances by the renowned Trisha Brown Dance Company, and engaging activities for art enthusiasts of all ages.
tephraica.org/festival
CULTURE
Tiara Evolves Vintage Fashion into Art WORDS BY ANDREW J. WILLIAMS III | PHOTOS BY KIMCHI PHOTOGRAPHY
CULTURE
A Multi-Hyphenate Style, elegance, mystique and attitude: This is Tiara Chameleon personified. She is the embodiment of vintage fashion’s evolution, a genre elevating and redefining its station within the clothing industry as its champions reimagine themselves. “I’m no different from a Basquiat or a Jackson Pollock; I just paint people with clothes,” Chameleon professes. “I too am an artist.” For generations, high-end fashion houses dominated the scene until sustainability, scarcity and a hyper-focus on individual expression became more vogue as vintage ascended to the level of wearable art. Art is a higher form of expression; it endures. In the world of vintage, longevity is literal — a quality Chameleon believes defines true luxury. “I appreciate the way [vintage] clothing was constructed back in the day,” Chameleon expresses of when she felt function and fashion were most in sync. “Silhouettes [then] were more complimentary to the body. The fabrics were stronger. It was more durable.” Art also has emotional power, provokes imagination and invites reflection — and the purveyors of modern vintage, like Chameleon, are bonafide artists who embrace their identity as multi-hyphenate creators. “A creative soul, an artist, a stylist, an image consultant, vintage connoisseur — all things art, fashion, vintage, beauty,” Chameleon says of her versatility. “I’m part of it all.” Chameleon and her brand 1984V, an online vintage concept store and style house launched in 2020, positions her among the trend pacing visionary fashion boutiques carrying the baton and remixing what it means to own vintage and sell vintage. Though Chameleon’s journey wasn’t spoon-fed to her. Her virtuosity as a conduit and curator with an attention to detail — textiles, fabrics and shapes — was born out of a desire to belong and rooted in her childhood memories in Ohio, where wearing hand-me-downs and “affordable living” was part of the community’s culture.
Vision + Tenacity As a young African American art school student in Chicago, Chameleon quickly recognized fashion was currency. Labels like CELINE, Louis Vuitton and others, ironically, signaled originality. Eager to prove herself while lacking the resources to acquire high-fashion pieces, Chameleon relied on her vision and tenacity. Ever the revolutionary, Chameleon turned to vintage which she describes as accessible luxury to build her wardrobe and dispel any notions she was “less than.” It was her unabashed refusal to
empower clothing labels to dictate or, much worse, diminish her self-worth. “College forced me to train my eye to make everything I wear look high-level,” Chameleon says. Strangely, in institutions of aspiring artists where many are jockeying to propel their careers and build fashion empires, succumbing to mainstream fashions feels counterintuitive. It’s a microcosm of a more insidious problem — misdirected valuation in the fashion space. Chameleon leaned into the notion of “fake it until you make it” without realizing that in the process of challenging the status-quo, she was laying the foundation for her career. Others quickly took notice of her ingenuity and began to literally buy the clothes off her back. This moment revealed the tried-and-true perceptions about fashion and the consumption of fashion were outdated. Chameleon recognized you didn’t need to construct a fashion line to appeal to the diverse tastes of individual consumers and creatives. You only needed to repurpose a sustainable resource: vintage wear. In fact, vintage is now so ubiquitous major fashion houses and boutique brands are creating retro collections and marking up the price point, recreating a watered down experience of shopping for vintage looks. What’s missing is the organic exhilaration of discovering a piece in the “wild” that speaks to your individual tastes and essence. That’s what Chameleon strives to encapsulate.
1984 The 1984V brand is a time capsule. As a music fan, it’s the era when Prince, “Thriller,” Madonna and Elton John topped the charts. It’s the same year iconic coming-of-teen movie director John Hughes “arrived” and Richard Branson launched Virgin Airlines. It’s also the year the iconic video game Tetris (designed by artificial intelligence researcher Alexey Leonidovich Pajitnov) came on the scene and the year the first MTV Video Music Awards show aired — back when they still played music videos. For pop culture palaeophiles, it was a good year. For Chameleon, it was the year she entered the world, a decade immortalized through her vintage brand. “It’s like the heartbeat of that year [and what I] want you to feel when you shop 1984V,” Chameleon says of the brand’s ethos. “It should feel like you’re watching “Thriller.” It should feel like you see Prince on stage with the blouses. It’s taking that time period and then implementing that into all my fashion.” Chameleon goes on to declare that 1984 is an “anchor year” rather than the full incarnation of her brand. She’s a child of 1984 but also an admirer of the ’70s, ’60s, ’50s and ’40s. She’s an Ohio Players, Bootsy Collins and funkadelic loving soul. DISTRICT FRAY | 49
CULTURE For Chameleon, vintage fashion is a playground for exploring, celebrating and reimagining the past — then folding that past into your own style. “My brand is a walking, living, breathing juxtaposition of two things that don’t go together and I make it go together,” Chameleon declares. “Take the ’70s funk and take some denim. Take this silk blouse and take this French vest. I’ve found a way to marry [opposites] into my brand.”
Love, Fearlessness + Fashion At the heart of 1984V is giving others the confidence to embrace their individualism “to be who you want to be,” Chameleon implores. For Chameleon, the journey itself is a vehicle for discovering her confidence and artistic freedom. “[This journey’s] taught me I’m fearless. It’s taught me I’m resilient. It’s taught me [to] beat my own drum. It’s taught me there’s no limit to how innovative I can be.”
50 | APRIL // MAY 2022
As an emerging pioneer of vintage fashion who fuses decades, generations and styles, Chameleon is on the cusp of a vintage revolution. In fact, she dreams of one day exhibiting a collection in a high-profile museum because it’s where her “art” belongs. In May of 2020, Chameleon and several models for her brand marched down to Black Lives Matter Plaza with fists raised. Black, beautiful and donning vintage, they made their presence known. It was an act of solidarity with others standing together against racial injustice. It’s a moment seared in her memory that radiates everything she stands for as a creator. “My brand represents empowerment, unity, love and fashion.”
To learn more about 1984V, visit 1984v.co and follow them on Instagram @1984vconceptstore. For more on Tiara Chameleon’s personal style, follow her on Instagram @tiarachameleon.
SEEN
Triangle stairs, crinkled concrete, dance studio. Occaboris tatem et od maiorer. Photos by Kimchi Photography.
ADVERTISE WITH US
VINTAGE RISING. Check out a curated collection of behind-the-scenes captures from our April cover shoot with Tiara Chameleon, founder of dynamic online vintage store and style house 1984V, at Byrdland Records in Union Market District. Photos by Andrew J. Williams III.
P R O M O T E Y O U R B U S I N E S S I N D I S T R I C T F R AY M AG A Z I N E’S A DV E N T U R E I SS U E From day trips to staycations, we’re highlighting every kind of D.C. adventure you can think of for our next issue, out on May 1. Explore advertising packages that elevate your business and/or brand, and tap into our local network of adventure-based content in the District. The Adventure Issue will mark our fourth issue available in 20+ Whole Foods in the D.C. area.
SCAN HERE Photo courtesy of Lani Furbank.
DISTRICT FRAY | 51
CULTURE
20+ SPOTS TO SHOP VINTAGE IN THE DMV WORDS BY BRYAN RODRIGUES-OLIVEIRA
There is no lack of history when it comes to the D.C. area. But while many out-of-towners tend toward monuments and statues to get their yesteryear fill, anyone living in the DMV will tell you vintage shops are the place for antiquated nuance. Here is a list of some of the many DMV vintage shops that keep the fashions of the past alive today.
Amalgamated Clothing Self-described as the place for all things Broadway and beyond, Amalgamated Clothing is your destination for the Mid-Atlantic look. Whether it’s Gatsbyinspired flappers or post-war rockabilly, this woman-owned business carries the torch for timeless fashion. 5179 B Lee Hwy. Arlington, VA; amalgamated-clothing.com // @amalgamatedshop
Analog Nothing beats the beauty of a wellcrafted letter. And at Brookland’s own Analog, you can get your hands on the most beautiful stationary while browsing a vast selection of vintage clothing. Have a friend in Seattle who loves houndstooth hats? Mail one with a handcrafted letter from Analog. 716 Monroe St. Studio 5 NE, DC; shopanalog.com // @shopanalog
Bespoke, Not Broke Imagine if you could get your hands on the gilded attire of our nation’s lawmakers. Now quit imagining and make your way over to Bespoke, Not Broke in Takoma Park. This Black-owned DMV staple is the authority on highclass vintage and has made headlines as a premier shop for those with refined tastes. 7042 Carroll Ave. Takoma Park, MD; bespokenotbroke.com // @bespokenotbroke
Bottle of Bread Independent makers and vintage fans, rejoice. Baltimore’s very own Bottle of Bread is a shop that offers the best of pre-1990s fashion and serves as a vehicle for local creatives looking to share their work. Get in on the best of DMV crafts while exploring the vast world of vintage clothing. 216 W Read St. Baltimore, MD; shopbottleofbread.com // @bottleofbread Lauren Gay of Common Thread. Photo courtesy of subject.
Common Thread at SWATCHROOM Vintage fashion will always be at its best with Common Thread by SWATCHROOM in the game. Led by the dynamic and fashion-savvy Lauren Gay, this D.C. fixture not only knows vintage but knows how to make vintage timeless. Setting trends is one thing, but Gay has proven time and again that she defines trends. 1268 4th St. NE, DC; swatchroom.com/commonthread // @commonthreaddc
Ella Rue With the fashion choices at the District’s Ella Rue, it should be known that everything is handled with the greatest care. Started by two sisters who have immortalized the wisdom of their fashionable grandmother, this staple spares no expense when it comes to handling clothes that need some extra love and care. 3231 P St. NW, DC; ella-rue.com // @shopellarue
Evolution Home It’s a saying old as time but it still rings true: “Buy a house, build a home.” And at Alexandria’s Evolution Home, you have an entire world of delectable furnishings to turn your base into an HGTV envy. From a vast catalog of vintage classics to staging services offering the best of era-less decor, Evolution Home truly defies nature with their taste and style. 6239 Shields Ave. Alexandria, VA; evolution-home.com // @evolutionhome
Falls Church Antique Center While it’s amazing the DMV is a hot spot for vintage appreciation, you haven’t seen anything until you’ve seen Falls
Church Antique Center. A shop bursting at the seams with the most fascinating collectibles, this storefront is proud to be part of the online Antique Trail, a confederation of stores that provide only the best in antiques. 250 W Broad St. Falls Church, VA; fallschurchantiquecenter.com
Fia’s Fabulous Finds Sometimes it’s hard to find variety in women’s fashion. But with Fia’s Fabulous Finds, finding variety is easier than brewing a cup of tea. A storefront dedicated to dressing all sorts of women at an affordable cost, Fia’s is the perfect place for anyone making a fashionforward change. Switch up your style at a D.C. business that’ll cheer you up every step of the way. 806 Upshur St. NW, DC; fiasfabfinds.tumblr.com // @fiasfabfinds
GoodWood While it may not be Tiffany’s, GoodWood on U Street is still the kind of refined establishment where Audrey Hepburn would eat her breakfast. Reminiscent of the classic American retailer, GoodWood is your first stop for fashionable apparel, classic consignments and decor that’ll start a conversation at your next house party. 1428 U St. NW, DC; goodwooddc.com // @goodwooddc
Heirloomen Etsy shops are a dime a dozen but nobody rises above the ranks better than Richmond’s Heirloomen. Arguably the number one online shop for all your 1950s fashion needs, scrolling through this shop’s page will give you the wardrobe to stage the best production of “Grease” in the entire DMV. etsy.com/shop/heirloomen // @heirloomen DISTRICT FRAY | 53
With an inventory that’ll scratch any antiquing itch you’ve got, it’s no wonder the entire vintage world has waited anxiously for this stellar spot to reopen their doors to the public. 42350 Lucketts Rd. Leesburg, VA; luckettstore.com // @luckettstore
Meeps Vintage When Cathy Chung of Treasury Vintage first acquired Meeps Vintage back in 2012, she set course for one of the biggest renovations in the world of vintage shopping. And nearly 10 years later, we can’t thank her enough. Priding itself as a haven for the unusual, this hot spot is for anyone looking to get a little weird and experiment with the best fashion from the ’60s to today. 2104 18th St. NW, DC; meepsdc.com // @meepsfashionette
Miss Pixie’s No one in the District can talk about vintage home decor without talking about Miss Pixie’s. A 14th Street staple that’s admired by everyone who passes through, this shop has proven their worth with a collection of unique furnishings that seeks to shock and amaze. The only issue with shopping at Miss Pixie’s is it’s so hard to keep yourself from buying every piece in-store. 1626 14th St. NW, DC; misspixies.com // @misspixiesdc
Pretty Chic DC
Junkworks Antiques One person’s junk is another’s treasure — and when you shop at Junkworks Antiques, it’s hard not to stumble into some repurposed gold. From vintage advertisements to obscure relics, this store’s inventory cannot be defined by the average antiques fan. At Junkworks, you’ve got to think outside of the box. Or better yet, ditch the box entirely. 125 E Baltimore St. Hagerstown, MD; junkworksantiques.bigcartel.com // @junkworksantiques
Lucketts It wouldn’t be a vintage roundup if we didn’t have the legendary Lucketts on our list. This Leesburg staple is the vintage store that makes DMV vintage. 54 | APRIL // MAY 2022
Pretty, chic and filled with all sorts of classics, this Wisconsin Avenue storefront is the go-to place for all of the District’s fashionistas. Whether it’s luxurious Alexander Wang handbags or to-die-for Chanel dresses, Pretty Chic is the definitive destination for anyone with a style palette dripping with history and luxury. 1671 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; prettychicdc.com // @prettychicdc
Reddz Trading Walking a beautiful line between sustainable and fashionable, Reddz Trading is not only owner Wendy Red’s passion project but also a great means to unite the D.C. trendsetters. Offering immediate cash for anyone offering the hidden gems of their wardrobe, this DMV force for good looks toward the future with care, concern and a taste for exquisite fashion. 1413 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC + 7801 Woodmont Ave. Bethesda, MD; reddztrading.com // @reddztradingstyle
Relume Co. How is it possible for one online shop to offer so much? At Relume Co., you can find anything from fragrant soy candles to quilted coats made with the best care. It’s a virtual nirvana for anyone who appreciates fashionable items made with love and precision. And be sure to keep an ear out for any of Relume’s DIY events and incredible offers. relumeco.com // @relume_co
Scilla + Luna We all have something that runs in the family. And at Scilla + Luna, it’s obvious that great taste runs in theirs. Mary Pat and Eli are a dynamic mother-daughter team who specializes in all things vintage and well-crafted. From body care products to clothes that are out of this world, every single thing at Scilla + Luna is held with the utmost care and all the love a family can offer. 1675 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; scillaandluna.com // @scillaandluna
SpeakVintageDC An online shop started by fashionforward music photographer Cassandra Marie, this Etsy hot spot is great for anyone looking to make a statement with their wardrobe. From 1950s varsity sweaters to fabulous cheetah-trim blazers, this wondrous collection is just one private appointment away from your closet. etsy.com/shop/speakvintagedc // @speakvintagefashion
Suffragette City Straight out of Maryland’s SoHy Arts District is a hot spot that celebrates the best of local, vintage fashion. Suffragette City is your next destination for vintage shopping that not only leaves you fashionably fresh, but also looks out for the wonderful creatives of the DMV. 5132 Baltimore Ave. Hyattsville, MD; suffragettecityvtg.com // @suffragettecityvtg
Vintage and Charmed Not every vintage shop can have an owner as charismatic as Vintage and Charmed’s Ms. Lynette Fefe. A D.C. native who has always had an eye for exquisite fashion, Lynette started out as the fashionista friend who then moved herself up to the top of DMV vintage, now being featured at the most refined markets and being garnered as a stand-out addition to any event. @vintageandcharmed Photo courtesy of Suffragette City.
CULTURE
THE INSIDE SCOOP WITH FOUR VINTAGE MASTERS Shelley White
OWNER, AMALGAMATED CLOTHING
Local vintage favorites: I am able to find the most sought-after items easily because I cast a really wide net. Most of our appointments are for women seeking vintage-specific dresses or men looking for vintage suites. Hidden gems: The items we have to travel farther afield for are definitely clothing items and accessories from the 1900s to 1940s. I’m fortunate I have cultivated relationships with pickers across the United States who are able to find the pieces we need and rare gems in the most unlikely places. Casual vs. fanatic: 90% of our patronage consists of costume designers working in the film and theatre business. We are known for dressing male [designers] in film with [attire] from 1920 to 1960. We have a full inventory of women’s and children’s clothing, as well. Your vintage go-to’s: In the sartorial world, vintage is definitely cyclical and it’s hard to predict what will influence trending in fashion. 10 years from now I’m sure the decades with true staying power in fashion will still prevail. The 1950s to 1980s are always popular. Stars with vintage energy: I think you’d find celebs like Lana Del Ray, Adele, Debbie Harry and Zooey Deschanel [at the shop]. For the guys: Harry Styles, Anderson Paak, Leon Bridges and Pokey LaFarge. All of these artists frequently incorporate vintage pieces into their contemporary wardrobes. Learn more about Amalgamated Clothing at amalgamated-clothing.com or follow them on Instagram @amalgamatedshop. Shelley White of Amalgamated Clothing. Photo courtesy of subject.
CULTURE
Lauren Gay
DIRECTOR OF RETAIL FOR SWATCHROOM + COMMON THREAD Local vintage favorites: [My collection] is based on the vendors who are invited to sell in the space and accept our contract to sell their collections at the store. I try to search, shop and support brands by era and then by trends so the space has a balance of what customers want and what will inspire them. [It] helps me curate a space like Common Thread because it’s about setting the vibe and flow to give the customer a positive experience. Hidden gems: The hardest items I’ve requested to be sold in the space are real leathers and furs (sorry PETA). Then it would have to be menswear in general. Casual vs. fanatic: [When] the space was open, we had a 50/50 balance of customers who were casual shoppers versus vintage fanatics. I wouldn’t say it is “easy” or hard” to convert a casual customer, but most humans coming into the space have an interest in adding vintage clothing into their wardrobe. So it’s all about educating the customer on what defines a piece of vintage clothing and showing them how they can style that piece with their current wardrobe or the value that piece will bring to their personal style. Your vintage go-to’s: Off the top of my head: mom jeans, patchwork jackets, certain style jumpsuits, certain brands of denim style that won’t be in mass production by the designer/ brand. Fashion recycles itself so much that it’s more about the production, fabrication or pattern that I believe [determines] what is vintage. Stars with vintage energy: Lenny Kravitz, Pharrell Williams, Run DMC, Janet Jackson (personal dream), Cardi B, Erykah Badu, Shoh, Dua Lipa, Megan Thee Stallion, James Brown, Madonna. When we had pop-ups at Common Thread, I would program DJs such as Alex Love (@alexlovelegit) to curate the vibe for the weekend. So the vibe always changed, which customers seemed to love over the mundane playlist loop we retail veterans know oh so well. Learn more about Lauren Gay on her Instagram @littlehustler83. Visit SWATCHROOM and Common Thread at swatchroom.com or follow them on Instagram @swatchroom and @commonthreaddc.
Susan Driscoll
OWNER, EVOLUTION HOME
Local vintage favorites: Items that come into our store regularly are primarily furniture, art, rugs, lamps and glassware. Hidden gems: Between items that come in on consignment and our vendor-curated goods, we offer a very eclectic mix of home furnishings and decor. Casual vs. fanatic: We get a little of both. We are primarily a home furnishings and decor shop. Our customers represent a broad demographic with diverse style interests. We not only offer vintage but quality secondhand, modern, contemporary furnishings and some antiques. This variety rounds out our mix quite well. We like to think we have something for everyone. 56 | APRIL // MAY 2022
Your vintage go-to’s: It’s difficult to predict what will be considered desirable or vintage 20 years from now. After all, who would have thought the furnishings from the 1950s and ’60s would have made such a popular comeback and remained in high demand for more than 20 years? I believe mid-century modern furnishings will continue to hold interest. Stars with vintage energy: Indie bands or bands like Anderson Paak and Bruno Mars. They have both recently released albums with a retro vibe. Learn more about Evolution Home at evolution-home.com or follow them on Instagram @evolutionhome.
Holli Mintzer
OWNER, SUFFRAGETTE CITY
Local vintage favorites: It depends on what you’d consider local, but one thing I really love is so many people in the area are well-traveled and bring treasures home with them. I’ve bought beautiful pieces from people whose family members worked for the State Department and spent years overseas. Hidden gems: Believe it or not, D.C. souvenirs. Vintage D.C. souvenirs are not something I see often locally — but if you think about it I guess they’re mostly purchased by tourists who take them home, so it makes sense. Casual vs. fanatic: I would say it’s maybe two-thirds casual shoppers with a strong minority of fashion fanatics — not necessarily people who want to look like time travelers, but want unique pieces they can mix with other eras for a modern look. Your vintage go-to’s: Technically anything 20-100 years old is vintage but it’s going to depend on what survives. Unfortunately, most clothes made in the last 20 years simply weren’t made to last. Modern fast fashion is made from materials that will pill, fade, unravel and rip a lot faster than mid-century pieces that were meant to be worn for decades. But clothes that are ethically made from natural fibers, closer to the conditions you’d find in a unionized midcentury U.S. garment factory, stand the best chance. Stars with vintage energy: I’m fascinated by the way styles go through multiple iterations over the years, often driven by pop culture. Look at riot grrrl. The early ’90s riot grrrl look started with real 1940s vintage dresses and slips bought at thrift stores and shortened to mini-length. Those got copied and transformed into the satin slip dresses and rayon babydoll dresses that became more broadly popular throughout the ’90s. They’re also seeing another resurgence now with copies-ofcopies sold by fast-fashion brands. Follow Holli Mintzer on Instagram @nonasuch and check out her Etsy shop at nonasuch.etsy.com. To learn more about Suffragette City, visit suffragettecityvtg.com and follow them on Instagram @suffragettecityvtg.
Past Dressing in the One writer shares the vintage attire that takes her on a journey through bygone times
WORDS BY KRISTEN SCHOTT
CULTURE Buying vintage came to me on a whim. I’ve always been a nostalgist, loving the styles of Audrey Hepburn in “Charade” and “Funny Face,” Grace Kelly in “To Catch a Thief” and the entire world of “The Great Gatsby.” But I never really thought much about owning any. Then one sunny Saturday, my friend and I popped into Elsewhere Vintage in Orange County, California where I grew up. I had no idea what I was doing but I’d had a few brunch mimosas, was feeling curious and found myself surrounded by pieces of wearable art — clothing that had survived decades; handmade, intricately-detailed coats, frocks, skirts, blouses. Equally good? The spot was having a sale. So, I purchased a leopard print topper I was (and still am) obsessed with. I wore it shortly after to a showing of “The Phantom of the Opera” at the Pantages Theatre in Hollywood. And when I moved across the country to D.C. some years later, I toted that hat with me — along with the small but growing number of vintage dresses, pants and tops I’d begun collecting. Since then, I’ve amassed even more goods — many from the West Coast-based sellers I still follow on Etsy and Instagram (I can’t help it) — but others from around the world, including the Philly area where I work and the DMV. Buying local is ideal; not only am I supporting small businesses but the prices are often more affordable than what I see in California. And I have the glory of actually being able to try on items before buying — always a good idea but even more so with older apparel. Vintage people must’ve worn vintage sizes. Fueling my addiction are shops like Speak Vintage DC, which I initially discovered on Etsy before realizing my former colleague was friends with founder Casandra Strafer. Based in Arlington, the appointment-only studio has given me, among other things, an incredible pair of 1930s-era men’s tuxedo pants and vest that makes a statement when sported among a sea of dresses. And on a recent visit, I snapped up a Julius Garfinckel & Co. skirt suit with a fur trim collar that looked like it could’ve been worn by Jackie O. (I’ll get to my thoughts on fur later.) The first time I wore it was on Halloween and it was a hit on Instagram and IRL: Old Town Alexandria passersby praised the getup. From Amalgamated Costume & Design Studio, an appointment-only warehouse in Arlington run by vintage queen Shelley White — who has costumed celebrities for period flicks — came a 1930s lace dress with fur trim. I finally found a slip to wear underneath, so I’ll be debuting that baby soon. From Vintage Dress Company, two pill-box hats and two cloches, including one with an original by Dwayne label — purchased a few days before the former brick-and-mortar in Pentagon City closed. (It’s currently online.) And from Bottle of Bread in Baltimore, a circa-1940s brown skirt suit with the sweetest nipped waist and pockets. I’m still on the hunt for the perfect 1970s bell bottoms and crop top, but I’ll get there in time. That’s the thing about vintage: I’ve learned to be patient. You have to know you aren’t going to find that 1920s flapper dress you’ve been dreaming about on your first or second try — maybe it’ll be too small, pricey or damaged to wear. I’m no expert (perhaps a refined dabbler) but I’ve learned a few other things, too. Keep your eyes open and be ready — even if you’re simply out shopping for antiques or at a consignment store. I wasn’t expecting to find a Berger et Cie Rue Cambon Paris (potentially early Chanel) handbag at Evolution Home in Alexandria, which I visit for eclectic furnishings. (I went back 58 | APRIL // MAY 2022
and bought it while writing this article.) The same can be said for Lucketts Store in Leesburg. I was delighted when my husband and I ascended to the top floor to find a collection of attire from the past. (I’m going back just for clothing next time.) Shopping online? The competition is stiff, particularly for labels with a larger following. Take Xtabay Vintage out of Portland, Oregon. Items are released on [IG] stories and sold within frustrating seconds. Another reason to turn to D.C. sellers: They’re more accessible. Even when you’re virtually browsing Los Gitanos’ store, there’s a much larger chance that 1980s dress will still be there tomorrow. But don’t wait too long — I did once on a sequined number and it was gone before I’d made up my mind. To that end: Know the time periods that move you. For me, it’s the 1920s to the ’70s. The heaviness of these beautifully beaded Jazz Age flapper dresses — their actual weight and the gravity of the wearer who pushed boundaries with bold attire — just entices me. The silk day dresses of the 1940s are so breezy. And my passion for the ’50s and ’60s has grown stronger thanks to “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” and “Mad Men.” As for the ’70s? Again, those bell bottoms are wild. Occasionally other eras will draw my eye — like the 1980s, the decade of my birth. But I can’t consider the 1990s vintage. Perhaps that’s because it would mean I’m vintage: I wore Mary Janes, plaid skirts, chokers and butterfly clips as a middle schooler and early teen. (Folks have told me to get over this. Maybe I will someday.) Not all of my purchases have been successful, like a tennis dress that looks terrible on me (it fits like a bag) and a Lilli Diamond fishnet cocktail dress that I adore — but the breast area doesn’t match mine and the netting puffs out a bit too much. The one that breaks my heart is a 1930s silk navy dress with a floral skirt. I wore it one summer in Paris and Provence and it was intact upon return. It was a little sweaty, so I took it to the dry cleaner who destroyed it. There are little tears all over the fabric. Needless to say, I now have a different dry cleaner. I reached out to White of Amalgamated for advice — I didn’t buy the dress from her but trust her judgment — and she suggested ironing soft pellon on the inside. I’m going to try it. (Wish me luck.) For the other two pieces? I’ll try selling them. Bottle of Bread, for instance, buys vintage for cash or trade. But that’s what makes vintage beautiful: While a certain piece may not be a fit for me, it might be for you. So it’ll live on with another owner through another time. Yes, vintage is the OG in sustainability. And that leads me to fur, with which I have a complicated relationship. While I can’t condone buying anything with fur in modern times, I clearly can’t say I’m opposed when it comes to vintage goods. To me, it comes down to the future of these delicate pieces of our past. These dresses, skirts, jackets, pants, tops — whatever — have outlasted the trends, been worn by different people in various places through events and occasions we only know through history books. And they nod to how style has changed in both negative (fast fashion) and positive (conscious consumption) ways, whether there’s a fur trim or not. I won’t try to change your mind and I respect whether that statement may evoke strong opinions. Like I said, I struggle with it, too. But no matter how you feel, I hope you find beauty in vintage — and perhaps try picking up a few pieces, too.
FIRST PAGE. Svea Wedis. Photo by Casandra Marie. THIRD PAGE. Amy Jalloh. Photos by Casandra Marie.
Amalgamated @amalgamatedshop
Evolution Home @evolutionhome
Speak Vintage DC @speakvintagefashion
Bottle of Bread @bottleofbread
Los Gitanos @losgitanosvintage
Elsewhere Vintage @elsewherevintage
Lucketts Store @luckettstore
Vintage Dress Company etsy.com/shop/ vintagedresscompanyXtabay @xtabayvintage
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14 LOCAL
WORDS BY CAROLINE CLIONA BOYLE
From minimalist grunge to contemporary vibes, DMV street style is a mix of patterns and textures representing shifting tastes in individual fashion. Apparel is a pivotal form of expression and local vintage labels offer the opportunity to find unique statement pieces to level up your personal style. District Fray has compiled 14 stylish curators to keep an eye on in D.C.’s emerging fashion space, whether through digital vintage labels, local pop-ups and swap shops, or secondhand education.
703 Thrift 703 Thrift’s self-proclaimed title “the essential plug” is not a baseless claim. This secondhand fashion label connects fashion lovers with a mix of staple wardrobe fits and striking streetwear grunge. Think jean patches, vintage sports jackets and bold graphic tees. @703thrift
Boundless Vintage The revival of vintage streetwear is in full storm. Grunge meets pops of color at Boundless Vintage, a secondhand Instagram shop that holds pop-ups throughout the DMV. Think oversized tees, structured trousers and chunky trainers to match. depop.com/boundless_vintage // @boundless_vintage
Circlevibe DC Eco-conscious fashion collective Circlevibe DC promotes the evergreen “capsule wardrobe.” Through swap shops, the promotion of upcycling resources and online education about the secondhand industry, the collective encourages the curation of staple pieces you can style over and over again. @circlevibedc
COTTON & INK For those seeking more staple grungy pieces, look no further. The Berliner black leather jackets and minimalist graphic tees of COTTON & INK’s spring collection emanate a casual-sleek vibe. @thriftsto
Craving Vintage At the forefront of D.C. vintage, label Craving Vintage is an important ethos that is minimally discussed in vintage circles: size-inclusivity. Craving Vintage incorporates this mindset into their
ERING STYLE
VINTAGE CURA
WITH
TORS STAGG retro curation, positioning color-blocked pieces against summery floral patterns. @craving.vintage
Forbiiidden Vintage Catering to vintage lovers who can’t get enough of trendy athletic wear, Forbiiidden Vintage has it all. From minimalist Nike sweatshirts to ’90s skislope energy jackets, the label’s curation checks all of the boxes for a stylish yet cozy spring fit. @forbiiidden_vintage
HappyFlores Yeleny Flores is the curator behind the retro DMV-based apparel label HappyFlores. Much of Yeleny’s collection is defined by warm colors and contrasting textures that create a contemporary ’70s vibe. @happyflores.shop + @yelenyrflores
Libby Living Colorfully All around digital creative Libby Rasmussen is the face behind Libby Living Colorfully. Libby’s brand approach to creative direction is to surround yourself with color. Her Etsy shop is a haven of reflective disco balls and bright homewear. Additionally, maximalist color blocking and patternon-pattern fits on Libby’s Instagram are the ultimate inspiration coming into spring. pico.link/libbyrasmussen // @libbylivingcolorfully
Los Gitanos Vintage Elegance and movement emanate from the spring collection of Los Gitanos. This D.C.-based Instagram and Etsy store mixes textures and patterns to achieve a luxe, contemporary classic look. Pops of color add a statement to your consignment collection. etsy.com/shop/losgitanosvintage // @losgitanosvintage
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CULTURE
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CULTURE
Rewind Consign Shopping vintage isn’t just for clothes. D.C.’s Rewind Consign specializes in all things accessories, from secondhand purses to shoes to jewelry. Stylist Danielle Sellers, the curator behind Rewind Consign, layers maximalist pieces against chunky modern accessories to achieve a trendy look made of secondhand items. @rewindconsign
Saimar Shop Sustainably keep up with fashion trends with the suave pieces of the DMV’s Saimar Shop. Structured corsets, statement trousers and sheer lace buttonups offer a mere glimpse into the modern luxe world of Saimar. saimar.shop // @saimar.shop
Some Wear To Go Vod Lavodrick Wallace is the curator behind Some Wear To Go Vod, a Virginia-based secondhand streetwear brand that specializes in grungy mask pieces. Intermixing colorful graphics imprinted onto structured jackets and tees is at the center of Vod’s brand. @vintage_vod
Segunda Vida Secondhand grunge shirts and neutral tones are the ultimate combination for street-wear nostalgia. NoVa’s Segunda Vida specializes in denim, revived tees and athletic-style jackets that breed an alternative, laid-back aesthetic. @segunda.va
Tribute Collective This sustainable fashion collective is one of the prominent forces of eco-conscious fashion in the District. In addition to swap shops, Tribute organizes sustainability education initiatives including conversations about the fast fashion industry and how residents living in the D.C. metro area can similarly become part of the secondhand consumption movement. sellit.bio/thisistribute // @thisistribute
FOUR STYLISH
LOCALS TO FOLLOW Yeleny Rivera-Flores Founder of HappyFlores
Ever-Evolving Style I define my current style as retro and eccentric. However, it is heavily dependent on my mood. There are days when I like to be edgy, other days to be girly and/or both. I just allow how I feel to guide my style. Trends + Secondhand Fashion I think current trends make it easy to include secondhand fashion because old styles are making their comeback. For example, a huge current trend is Y2K fashion and that is so easy to find at your local thrift store or even in your parent’s closet. Getting Started with Vintage I would say visit large thrift stores like Value Village and Goodwill. These thrift stores are everywhere, however. There are many vintage pop-up markets and curators in the DMV that not only offer beautiful collections, but also ideas on how to style. Some of my favorite local curators are @jungli_vintage, @yespleasevtg and @rheajibreel. If you are looking for a place to shop, check out @getfleemarketplace and @gwpopthrift on Instagram for unique items. Trends in the DMV I’ve seen a lot of fanny packs over puffer jackets or trench coats in addition to color blocking looks, which I love.
Local Vintage Love I wouldn’t say my perspective on fashion has changed as a vintage curator in the DMV, but I have become more open to listen, observe and learn from sustainable fashion lovers and curators. I believe fashion is experimental and can be as adventurous as you want it to be. Learn more about HappyFlores and Yeleny on her Instagram accounts @happyflores.shop and @yelenyrflores.
Joelle Firzli
Co-founder of Tribute Collective Ever-Evolving Style It’s a mix and match of old and new, eccentric and classic, familiar and strange. My travels and cultural backgrounds prompt me to be who I am and through clothing I try to honor my identity and culture. Trends + Secondhand Fashion A closet should be a collection of pieces you love and find meaningful. It’s all about storytelling: Honoring the past while creating new memories. When it comes to mixing secondhand and vintage with contemporary fashion pieces, almost anything goes. Juxtaposing the old and the new should feel fresh and surprising. It’s all about playing with colors, patterns, silhouettes, textures and making sure you find the right balance.
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Getting Started with Vintage Follow Tribute to learn more. We have a blog with informative articles and a YouTube page that houses a selection of wonderful talks around the subjects of sustainability, fashion history, culture and identity. The Good Map of DC is always a great place to start. It’s a collaborative map we created last year. Learn more about Tribute Collective and Joelle on her Instagram accounts @thisistribute and @elle__jo.
Lavodrick Wallace Founder of Some Wear To Go Vod
Ever-Evolving Style If I had to describe my style, Vod is stuck in the ’80s and early ’90s. But the way Nike displayed each player and style for each player, I felt the same for myself. I had to put my fits together with my originality of blending colors and patterns to create fits that are iconic to me. Trends + Secondhand Fashion I don’t follow trends. I mix the old with the new but I solely pick the pieces based [on] how I feel at that moment. Blending is an art. It has to work or it doesn’t. I pay attention to little details to find different ways to complement the color, detail or what I want to enhance so you can see what wasn’t visible to you. I may even make some rips or tears to give certain effects or to just draw you in to pay attention to the detail.
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Getting Started with Vintage For those looking to beef up your vintage gear, get started collecting or just figure out what to go after (rap tees, sports tees or vintage vod), [Some Wear To Go Vod] has what you need. But if you’re wanting to grind yourself, Goodwill, Salvation Army and local thrifts are best. Trends in the DMV When roaming around D.C. streets, I’ve seen a few vintage trends such as the 1970s era-style jeans and R&B tees. But the most I’ve ever seen would have to be vintage Redskins and Cowboys gear. If it’s a starter, it’s a must. Local Vintage Love Becoming a curator in the DMV has opened my mind to more things and possibilities within fashion. By curating the flow of clothes from gender, colors, patterns and brands, styling them together and showing what I think, fashion hasn’t changed my perspective but given me a better perspective of what’s out there. Learn more about Some Wear To Go Vod and Lavodrick on his Instagram accounts @vintage_vod and @grandeurvodi.
Danielle Sellers Founder of Rewind Consign
Ever-Evolving Style I would describe my style as very eclectic. I pull inspiration from all regions and cultures. On any given day, I may wear fatigue pants with a vintage T-shirt and a kimono while adorning my crown with a 24K gold tikka headpiece. My style icons range from June Ambrose to Diana Ross. Trends + Secondhand Fashion While following trends isn’t my particular forte, I do enjoy pulling styles from runways and showing my clients how they can duplicate those hot topic looks for a fraction of the cost.
CULTURE Getting Started with Vintage The best way for locals to expand their vintage collection is to go to your local thrift stores, consignment shops and estate sales. It takes patience and a trained eye, but you can definitely find beautiful unique pieces. Trends in the DMV The most recent vintage trends I’ve seen in the DMV area have been a nod to the late ’80s and early ’90s era. Even high-end brands have gotten in on these trends as well. Graphic Ts with pop singers, rappers and bands, cross color outfits along with color blocking are all statement looks at this moment. Local Vintage Love I feel like D.C. has always been the shit when it comes to fashion. Being a curator in my hometown has given me so many opportunities to work with a multitude of clients ranging from the music industry all the way to Capitol Hill. The diverse and eclectic culture of the city has broadened my scope on fashion. I enjoy pulling pieces from local designers such as Madness, Museum and Shooters to shopping in City Center for couture looks. As a DMV native, I have always had an affinity for our type of style. Learn more about Rewind Consign and Danielle on her Instagram accounts @rewindconsign and @fvartistry. FIRST PAGE. Yeleny Rivera-Flores. THIRD PAGE. Danielle Sellers of Rewind Consign. Photos courtesy of subjects. FIFTH PAGE. Tribute Collective. Photo courtesy of curator. THIS PAGE. Tribute Collective. Photo by Donovan Gerald.
Save the World, Shop Vintage @marshallcurated 8371 W. Main St Marshall, VA 20115 www.marshallcurated.com
DECOR . ANTIQUES . GIFTS
WHY + WHERE TO
WORDS BY SYLVIA COLELLA
IN THE DMV
SHOP RESALE
If you are anything like me, you know a little something about shopping. I’m not talking about grocery shopping or perusing the aisles of a hardware store for useful items like a step ladder or a tool bag. NON. I mean you know where to get your next fashion fix, whether it be that trendy item (or a budget-friendly dupe) that all the “it” people are wearing — or that one-of-a-kind accessory you spotted in a vintage French fashion magazine. If you’re not an expert shopper yourself, you probably know someone who is and they tell you where to shop. Your first stop is probably the internet. You can find just about anything and everything online and at a cost to fit any budget. In fact, it’s never been easier to spend money on fashion. Our ever-expanding wardrobes of unworn or barely worn items are proof. Sadly, the fashion industry’s carbon footprint is also expanding due to increased demand.
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CULTURE The statistics give pause for thought. A 2020 study found 87% of material used for clothing production worldwide was landfilled or incinerated after its final use, and less than 1% of material used to produce clothing was being recycled at that time. While “sustainability” has become an industry buzz word in recent years (New York is even trying to enact legislation — i.e., the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act to impose environmentally responsible practices on apparel or footwear brands doing business in the state), a recent Vogue article reported the industry’s emissions are still rising, with fashion contributing an estimated 4 to 8.6% of the world’s greenhouse gases. Mass-market retailers of so called “fast fashion” — rapidly produced, inexpensive, on-trend clothing (think Shein, H&M and Zara) — are supposedly mostly to blame, but so are the consumers who buy them. Knowing all of this has made me reconsider my shopping habits, and so should you. When I do make purchases nowadays, it’s from “slow fashion” brands who use local materials and eco-friendly practices. I am also a big fan of the resale market (secondhand and vintage stores) where you can find one-of-a-kind items at a fraction of the cost of retail. There are plenty of online options (Poshmark, Mercari, The RealReal, eBay, to name a few) but I prefer to shop at local businesses whenever possible. I also try to sell one item at these stores for every new item I purchase. That forces me to think before I buy while reducing closet clutter. Here are my go-to resale stores in the DMV area with a short preview of each. 1. Current Boutique is a consignment store that’s a good place to buy and sell mid-range items. They seem to cater to a conservative professional clientele at their Bethesda location, while the 14th Street store is best suited for young, trend-conscious shoppers. I’m not familiar with their Arlington location, but I assume it’s like their other stores. They are well-known in the area, so items do tend to sell well and they have a large selection of seasonal inventory that changes regularly. Various locations; currentboutique.com // @currentboutique 2. Ella Rue in Georgetown is a treasure trove for all things posh. The owners take very good care of their merchandise and do a great job of consigning a wide range of classic to on-trend items for 68 | APRIL // MAY 2022
women. The price point and roster of designer items is on the higher end but always worth the investment. If you are a seller, you can be sure the shop’s high foot traffic and its loyal, fashion-forward clientele ensures your items will go quickly and for a good price. 3231 P St. NW, DC; ella-rue.com // @shopellarue 3. Reddz Trading is another secondhand store where I sell and shop. They have a great selection of items from mid-range designers, some high-end finds and a surprisingly good selection of designer handbags. They offer cash payouts or store credit when you sell with them, which is nice if you are looking for a quicker pay out than the consignment model at Ella Rue or Current Boutique (it may take several months to receive your first check). Like Buffalo Trading Company and Uptown Cheapskate (see below), they also buy and sell men’s items. I’ve sold plenty of forgotten treasures from my husband and son’s closets there. 1413 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; 7801 Woodmont Ave. Bethesda, MD; reddztrading.com // @reddztradingstyle 4. Buffalo Exchange (Richmond, Virginia) and Uptown Cheapskate (Rockville and College Park, Maryland) are best for reselling fast fashion on the lower end of the price scale and like Reddz they offer immediate pay outs. My strategy is to take them whatever I haven’t been able to consign or sell and donate the leftovers. 9122 Baltimore Ave. College Park, MD; 1038 Rockville Pike Rockville, MD; buffaloexchange.com // @buffaloexchange + uptowncheapskate.com // @uptowncheapskate Hopefully, this article has persuaded you to consider alternatives to mainstream fashion when you feel the urge to shop. Not only is it good for the environment and your wallet, but it’s also a fun way to find fashion that expresses your unique style. Sylvia Colella is a former attorney and 50+ effortless style enthusiast. She runs an image consulting business and shares her love of fashion and travel on her eponymous Instagram @sylviacolella and her personal blog simplysylvia.com. She currently divides her time between D.C., New York, Los Angeles and Paris.
Sylvia Colella. Photos courtesy of subject.
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LOREAL HAWK Occupation Law student at UDC Spotted location On the streets of Union Market Describe your style Flowing, colorful and clean Fashion inspiration Angela Bassett in the ’90s, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington Favorite item The yellow poncho I am wearing right now
CANDID STYLE
An Inside Look at D.C.’s Fashion
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MILO NETO + ANNIE CHAALE Occupation Both in advertising Spotted location Georgetown, outside of Sweetgreen Describe your style Neto: Vintage, secondhand, camp Chaale: Black, minimalistic, bold Fashion inspiration Neto: ’80s Chaale: Hailey Bieber and TikTok Favorite item Neto: I’m a big accessories guy — necklaces and rings in gold or stainless steel. Chaale: A nice pair of jeans. A nice quality pair goes a long way.
WORDS + PHOTOS BY NICOLE SCHALLER. When people think of D.C. fashion, a business suit naturally comes to mind. The Capitol Hill zeitgeist holds a strong grip on how the District is characterized and portrayed, but venture outside the government buildings’ parameters and you will see how locals truly dress. From the trendy streets of Georgetown to the creative and eclectic corridors of Union Market, Washingtonians have a unique take on style that often varies by neighborhood. Peruse these photos of stylish people walking the streets of D.C. who help create the fabric of our city’s fashion scene.
KEYA SEABRON
KALEI HAMILTON
Spotted location Union Market, outside of Byrdland Records
Occupation Student studying social work
Describe your style Eccentric, go-withthe-flow, unique
Spotted location Union Market, sitting working and drinking coffee
Fashion inspiration My mother and grandmother Favorite item A good pair of black shoes
Describe your style Thrifty, inconsistent, colorful Fashion inspiration Emma Chamberlain Favorite item Dr. Martens boots I am wearing
CHRIS LEWIS Occupation Makeup artist Spotted location Union Market, outside of St. Anselm Describe your style Out-of-the-box, different, versatile Fashion inspiration Billy Porter, Lil Nas X, Jeremy Pope Favorite item Platform shoes
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JOSEPH TRULLINGER Occupation Philosophy professor at George Washington University Spotted location Georgetown, outside of Blue Bottle Describe your style Goth peacock Fashion inspiration David Bowie and Blixa Bargeld from the German industrial noise band Einstürzende Neubauten Favorite item The leather jacket I am wearing. I got it at the beginning of the pandemic.
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NYY GRIFFIN Occupation Barista Spotted location Georgetown, outside of Olivia Macaron Describe your style Unique, influential, spontaneous Fashion inspiration I like a lot of Korean streetwear. K-pop artists, the way they dress when they’re not performing, as well as Chris Brown and Rihanna’s style. Favorite item My pair of joggers, a graphic T-shirt and tennis shoes
ASHLEY GUY Occupation Gender specialist Spotted location Dupont Market near Dupont Circle Describe your style Classy but edgy Fashion inspiration BTS are style icons Favorite item Good handbag or anything with a midriff DISTRICT FRAY | 75
NICHOLAS JOSEPH MARTINO Occupation Chef and owner of ABOVEGROUND Spotted location ABOVEGROUND at Union Market Describe your style Eclectic (contrary to Coco Chanel’s “Take one thing off”) Fashion inspiration Elton John. He is unapologetically himself and so am I. The queen is an icon. She’s a bad bitch. Queen Lizzie has always been fly. Favorite item Always rock a chain 76 | APRIL // MAY 2022
On a snowy Sunday in February, I ran down a city block in Manhattan in desperate search of The Overlook at Bryant Park for my first-ever New York Fashion Week show. When I finally made it to my destination, I was immediately enamored with the rich and bold tapestries of color in the room — and the buzz of excitement reverberating off the audience. While my frame of reference for Fashion Week hadn’t ventured far beyond an episode of “Sex and the City,” I could immediately tell I was about to witness something very unique in the fashion world. I felt validated when Annie Lennox’s vocals came through the speakers, “Sweet Dreams” echoed through the vast space and the first transgender model to appear on “Project Runway,” Mimi Tao, glided down the purple runway in a neon orange tulle gown. Tao has become like family to Cynthia and Najla Burt, the mother-daughter team behind affordable luxury lifestyle brand Dur Doux. “She sets the stage for the message we want to deliver about equality,” Cynthia says of Tao, who she notes is in almost every show she produces with her daughter Najla. “We, in every fiber of our being, believe in it. There is beauty in every single woman. It’s not just the clothes they wear. It’s them. It’s the persona they convey. That’s what we want for every woman.” The “Project Runway” star was just the first of many models who embodied this same ethos, promoting everything from body inclusivity to transcending one country or culture’s standard of beauty through the power of fashion. But beyond the vibrant fuchsias, emerald greens and cobalt blues flashing before my eyes in creations that ran the gamut from high fashion to edgy street wear, I witnessed the indestructible bond between a mother and daughter who’ve been growing their business since 2013 and were reveling in the success of their second-ever New York Fashion Week show. The pair, Najla in a monochromatic purple crop top and high-waisted pants and her mother in a bright blue suit and orange top — both with stunning pops of color in their perfectly coordinated makeup — grasped hands tightly and walked down the runway to a standing ovation. When they reached the end of the room, they held each other’s faces and embraced forehead to forehead. The importance of family was further solidified when Cynthia walked up to a dapper gentleman in the front row in a glamorous suit adorned with blue flowers, grabbed his face delicately with her hands and gave him a huge kiss. I later found out during our interview that this was indeed her husband, who she described as her “betrothed” and has named Dur Doux’s chief inspiration officer. Cynthia + Najla Burt. Photo by Interstellar Studio.
THE DrIVING FOrCE
BEHIND DUR DOUX WORDS BY MONICA ALFORD
CULTURE The family was overjoyed, proud and humbled by the outpouring of support felt in the room that Sunday, and it was evident their values were firmly rooted in the right place as they strive to help put D.C. on the map as a fashion hub promoting inclusivity and diversity within the industry. Fast-forward to last month, when I had the chance to catch up with them back in the District about the driving force behind their business, what inspires their innovative aesthetic and why it’s important to represent all women through their brand. District Fray: How long have you shared this vision for a luxury lifestyle brand that’s attainable? When did you first start brainstorming together? Najla: My mom is self-taught. She made me and my sisters clothes when we were growing up. I went with her all the time when I was little to pick out fabrics and patterns, and I’d sit and watch her make things. That was my first foray into fashion as a child, and then that grew and developed. When I got accepted into Parsons, it was a very interesting experience because when I attended, there was only maybe a 1% population of Black students. I didn’t see a lot of people who looked like me in fashion. I started thinking about my mom. She’s always so welldressed and I thought, “Wouldn’t this be great for women to look amazing, but at a price point that’s much more attainable and affordable?” Cynthia: In life, if you are a person of spirit, the universe comes to you and will bring you the things — or those natural strengths and capabilities for those things — to rise. I think that surely happened with Najla and it happened with us as mother and daughter, who had a shared vision, skill and creativity. You have to have tunnel vision. You can’t look to the left or the right. You have to keep looking straight ahead because there’s so many things to diffuse your beliefs, your thoughts about yourself — what I call mirages — on one side or the other. You just have to keep that focus. What inspired your business plan? Cynthia: Najla and I decided we believe the majority of women really do want quality fashion. Whatever their aesthetic is, they want quality. Unfortunately, our society is not balanced. We said we would do attainable luxury. There is an opportunity — certainly given what we’ve gone through the last year-anda-half — for our industry to recalibrate itself and look at who the consumer is. The consumer is all women. You must design for all sizes, all ethnic backgrounds, the whole deal — and give them offerings at various price points so that can be achieved. Why did it feel important to stay in D.C. as a fashion brand? How would you describe your relationship to the District and its fashion community? Najla: I definitely feel like we are carving out a new space because there are designers here, but none of them are doing what we’re doing in terms of working with a diverse set of models. Even our design aesthetic is very different. You see a lot of New York designers do things very minimally, or they focus strictly on architecture. Prints really drive our designs. They’re very colorful, very vibrant. Then we add architectural and avant-garde details. D.C. had the foundation to really become great in fashion. We wanted to show D.C., New York and the rest of the world that fashion really could be done in a way that 78 | APRIL // MAY 2022
is unique and special here in the District — especially with our brand. Cynthia: We knew D.C. was really the fit for us [after our first event at the Perry Belmont House on New Hampshire Avenue] because it was a time when you could feel and hear the undertone of many people saying the same thing about growing fashion, and its presence and creativity in this community. We immediately embraced that and wanted to be a part of it. We didn’t know where it was going or who was going to lead it, but we wanted our brand to have some influence. You showcased such a diverse group of models in New York — it was really refreshing. What’s your process for who you select to model for you? Najla: We’re members of this community, so it is very important to feature D.C. models. We have stuck with some of the same models from season to season, but we do try to switch it up to see if there’s someone new we haven’t seen before: a model who hasn’t had that opportunity. It’s important to try to feature at least one or two of those really, really new models who we think are fabulous and embody the ethos of the brand. Cynthia: D.C. has so many wonderful resources. We should be further along in our place in the fashion arena. It’s not because we don’t have the talent, because it is here and it is strong. Najla: In terms of diversity, that goes back to the ethos of the brand. We are for women — and that means women of different shapes, sizes and ethnicities. It’s really important for women to actually see themselves in our clothes. There are so many other brands that could be doing that, and they’re not. We want it to be a regular part of what we do — but not make it a trend thing, because for us, it’s not a trend. It’s what we do. You describe your pieces as wearable with edgier, avant-garde elements. Can you walk me through what that means to each of you, and how you landed on that aesthetic together? Najla: Because we are Floridians, we’ve always spent a lot of time in the Caribbean. People always ask us, no matter where we go, “Where are you from in the Caribbean?” It really does come from our travels in different places and living for most of our lives in a tropical environment. It’s interesting because when we first started out, my influences came from living in New York. We designed a lot in gray and black and off-white, and that really came from my training at Parsons. We were trained to design using just those colors. [When it came to] color and pattern and print, they were like, “We don’t design in that. We need a very flat, minimal palette and design.” Because that was taught, the avant-garde elements came out of me. If I had to design in these flat colors, I was going to make sure my aesthetic came out in these avant-garde details. Obviously, when I got with my mom, that changed and morphed. Cynthia: I love America but man, if I could live in Europe, that would be my life. When we go to those places, we do a little bit of what you consider the regular tourist [activities], but Najla and I go up and down all those little narrow streets that most people would call alleyways. They are the essence of the country and the culture. That’s where you get it. We go and shop in all those places. We are a sponge. We come back and there is this whole new dimension of who we are and how
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we see color and art and fashion. Every place we’ve been, we just soak it up. We can’t ever design like your typical American designer because that’s all been pushed to the bottom, and all this other international perspective and culture is now with us. Najla: My mom is like, “Don’t forget who you are or where you come from. We come from a tropical environment. There’s nothing wrong with color. You can use print.” She really was the one who encouraged me: “Let’s take this new direction.” And once we took it, we just ran with it and it became so organic. That’s one thing I would always say to any designer: “Don’t ever forget where you come from. Let that come out. And don’t let anybody suppress what that is.” Where do you see yourselves in a year, and in five years, as a brand? What is a bucket list item for you as a company? Cynthia: Let’s say it at the same time. Both: Paris Fashion Week. Najla: For us, it’s got a lot of nostalgia. We’ve been there so many times. It was my first big international trip. We’re going to do it one way or another. That is definitely on our bucket list. Cynthia: We did develop a five-year plan and amazingly, we kept to that. It has evolved in that direction. We do want to have a homewares [line]. [My husband and I] designed and built our own beach home and I decorated it, and then we bought another beach place and decorated it. There’s an element of who I am that I’ve got to let play out in me because I think that’s a skill I have. Photo by Phelan Marc.
What do you have coming up this spring and summer, both locally and nationally? Cynthia: We are growing a couple of our collaborations. It looks very likely that we will be doing some unique projects with the WNBA. We are also moving into a beautiful endeavor with our first big, branded item (other than clothing) with Nila Bags. What’s it like to work as a mother-daughter duo? What are the benefits and the challenges? Najla: It’s almost like having telepathy. We are in sync. It just feels like, “Wow, this is destined to be.” I think the pain points do come [because] we are different people. In any relationship, you have to meet in the middle and figure out, “Okay, we’ve got to get a collection done. We have X amount of time to get it completed. How are we going to make this work?” Cynthia: I thrive when I work with people who are just as smart or smarter than me, just as passionate, just as combative and will debate me day, night, 24/7. Those are the people who advance the larger goal or vision. Najla and I both have that dimension. The people we bring on to our team, those are the kind of people we want. That’s part of who we are as a brand. We believe that women are smart, smart, smart, smart, smart — and you just have to unleash them. Learn more about Dur Doux at durdoux.com and follow the lifestyle brand on Instagram @durdoux. DISTRICT FRAY | 79
Weird
Finds WORDS BY MARCELLE G AFRAM
CULTURE I started a childhood obsession of collecting and cataloging random things at the age of four. Starting with pencils and erasers, I was allowed to pick one of each when my mom would go to the craft store. I’d meticulously choose and organize them when I got home. I quickly turned my passion for collecting to sports cards and memorabilia, specifically baseball. Not soon after I went to my first baseball game at Memorial Stadium in Baltimore to watch the Baltimore Orioles play the Oakland Athletics. I was hooked on the sport and everything manufactured around it. Being raised with a heavy hand geared toward the effeminate, the association of masculinity with professional sports gave me a connection to something I longed for that I couldn’t quite understand or connect to until decades later. Over those decades, my sports collection evolved into a focus on clothingrelated items, starting with baseball and local sports — and eventually a broad cataloged collection fine-tuned in categories ranging from ’60s and ’70s bright button ups, crewneck sweatshirts to denim from the ’80s and ’90s. I now understand, deep down inside, I would choose to wear anything if I existed in the timeline of my life as the person I always knew I was. No doubt a product of this manufactured consumer world, I still couldn’t help but feel a strong connection to this history of menswear. I had a longing and desire to FIRST PAGE. Marcelle G Afram. Photos courtesy of subject.
put this clothing on and feel like myself. As a nonbinary, transmasculine person who didn’t realize my identity in those terms until a couple of years ago at age 35, grappling to present how I deeply desired to be seen was bittersweet — yet uplifting when I would add to my vintage collection. There is a personal affirmation that’s felt when we put something on that aligns with how we need to be seen. In addition, as an adult working in kitchens the freedom I found in these sometimes wild and loud pieces of clothing — their breathtaking and jolting presence — felt necessary after day after day in a uniform that robs individuality. So, I’m spilling my beans about my love affair and I’m excited to share some favorite pieces I’ve accumulated over my lifetime. The collection ranges
from items I’ve had since childhood, online trade and purchases, the occasional thrift store find and sometimes things people close to me gifted after years of use (those are high on the list of favorites).
The Crewneck
That perfectly worn sweatshirt. Cross-seasonal, comfy, sometimes adorned with graphics of nostalgia: Nothing new can recreate the feel and look of a vintage crewneck. My favorites in my collection range from a crisp white Boston Traders (that has pockets) to a heather pink, bubble print 1988 D.C. souvenir by Pannill and a big image, ideally distressed 1980s Danny Sullivan Nascar by Jerzees.
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Denim
Where to Shop
Color Block
In this world of mass production, the perks of buying used items goes beyond aesthetics. Hopefully reuse helps eliminate the imprint of waste on this world. In addition, the stories these items carry pique my curiosity to learn what it’s taken for them to find their way to today. The story of demographics and how they’ve influenced the timeline of fashion, the history lessons these items have to teach — it’s a deep dive filled with information on the ways and periods of society. It also feels damn good finding that one-of-a-kind grail that’s endured through time and how it makes one feel when we put it on.
Funky
Georgetown Flea Market: 1819 35th St. NW, DC; georgetownfleamarket.com // @georgetownflea
Worn and adored around the globe, Levi’s is well-known as the royalty of denim and for good reason, setting the standard for durability. I may love many of my Levi’s but the pieces I’m most passionate about range from great acid washed pieces by Lee and RG Brown’s to a Y2K Gap denim jacket I’ve worn too many days in the past 20 years. The wear and tear on it tells stories for another day.
The color block pulls on my heartstrings because it beckons that rush of nostalgia with heavy reminiscence of the ’80s and ’90s. With loud, unforgiving colors many might claim don’t “match,” the color block is as eclectic and confused as the era it comes from. My favorite: a distressed early ’90s J. Crew corduroy button up, covered in colors and wear. I love that it seems so unlike what the brand is known for.
The quality dyes and colors that popped up in clothing during the ’60s and ’70s is, in my opinion, unrivaled. I adore buttonups from this time. Bright and bold, abstract or geometric, the collar styles are almost costume-like. It makes me feel like I’m playing dress-up. There’s too many funky ones to count, with great producers of the time like Arrow, Royal Hawaiian and Blue Star.
Georgetown is flooded with consignment shops and the Georgetown Flea Market is a must; it’s full of old-school vintage designer wear. The area has estate sales galore every weekend filled with gems. Meeps Vintage in Adams Morgan is also a onestop shop for great finds. And our neighbor Baltimore is filled with funky vintage shops like Illicit Rag.
Illicit Rag: 5702 Bellona Ave. Baltimore, MD; @illicitragvintage Meeps Vintage: 2104 18th St. NW, DC; meepsdc.com // @meepsdc Marcelle G Afram is a Silver Spring native, avid Washington, D.C. sports fan, chef and owner of Shababi, advocate for Palestinian and Transgender lives, and a lifelong collector and lover of all things vintage.
A FRESH ALTERNATIVE TO DEFINING YOUR STYLE
A STORE LIKE NONE OTHER
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EVOLUTIONHOMESHOP EVOLUTIONHOME (703) 519-1911 861 S. PICKETT ST. ALEXANDRIA, VA 22304
WITH
Each month, local comedian and actor Joe Marshall sits down with a local artist to pick their brain about all things creative and their role in the D.C. performing arts scene. Behind every beautiful film you’ve seen lies an unsung hero. Sure, we praise the directors, writers and actors for their brilliant performances onscreen but we often forget to acknowledge the curator of the images themselves: the director of photography. Every pivotal, tear-jerking, awe-inspiring moment seen on film is all made possible by the work of a skilled cinematographer, like Aaron Tucker, whose humble path of local DP and filmmaker is now leading him into a spotlight of his own. “Working behind the scenes on someone else’s vision helped me to develop my own,” says Tucker, a 29-yearold Maryland native. “My time on set working with directors, practicing my art and learning the craft gave me an understanding and a confidence to express myself in my own way.” Tucker’s journey to film was an unconventional one. He graduated from the University of Maryland College Park with a bachelor’s in finance and information systems and went on to begin a successful career at Deloitte. But after picking up a camera and teaching himself the art of storytelling through photography, Tucker left a secure job, paid his way through American University’s MA in Film and Media Arts Program and pursued a full-time career in photography direction. “I was motivated by the fear of failure,” Tucker says. “For me not to make a career transition would be failing to believe I can do the thing I enjoy doing for a living and that’s a failure I can’t live with.” Since his bold leap into the world of artistry, Tucker has become one of the most sought-after cinematographers in the area. His diverse skill set ranges from music videos, like directing photography for rising local musical artist Mannywellz, to high-fashion, as he curates moving images for the Vogue-featured and locally-created women’s clothing brand Hanifa. Tucker’s narrative film and documentary work has been featured in multiple film festivals across the country, including both the D.C. and National Black Film Festival in Houston, Texas. His name work has also garnered him IMDB credits and placed him in a room filming Vice President Kamala Harris for NASA’s Youtube Series “Get Curious.” If there’s a story to be told, chances are, Tucker can capture it. “With my images, I like to present real people going through normal, everyday human challenges,” Tucker says of the work that energizes him most. “I want to create 84 | APRIL // MAY 2022
WORDS BY JOE MARSHALL
environments where my subjects can be transparent and honest, that way the project serves as an emotional release for them and, in a way, for me as well.” In a short documentary he directed for Shea Moisture titled “Reimagining Community,” Tucker captures intimate live interactions between local business owners, restaurant keepers, barbershop managers and their daily customers highlighting the redeeming impact they have on their community, especially during the economically-challenging pandemic. Recently, Tucker collaborated on a short film titled “Too Many” with local filmmaker and director Samson Binutu of Cruefilms. The filmmakers explored the anxiety in everyday decision making, often resulting in decision fatigue. The five-minute short film follows one protagonist through the stress-inducing events of his day. Containing only one line of dialogue, the film relies heavily on its imagery to convey the emotions of the piece. Ominously darker, more isolated compositions fill the frame as slow push-ins depict impending pressure. Throughout the film, there is an ever-present sliver of light conveying a sense of fleeting hope that continuously evades the main character. “It’s powerful to capture people in a meditative state where you can see their thoughts,” Tucker says. “I’ve learned that simplicity preserves authenticity so I don’t necessarily need to go into every project with the idea I need to make something happen. Something’s already happening — the question is, how can I amplify what’s happening without distracting from it?” With a minimalistic approach, Tucker still finds opportunities for bold creative choices that distinguish his work. In a short film for Legacy of Royals, Tucker’s imagery celebrates Black women in opera. He depicts strong, proud images of them dressed in bold patterns symbolic of culture, standing center-screen and contrasting the muted surroundings of a vast field of unrecognition. In the midst, banners of royal cloth wave across the frame, draping its subjects in well-deserved majesty. Although film has been Tucker’s outlet for sharing the stories of others, the craft has helped him discover intimate nuances about himself. Film is therapeutic for me,” Tucker says. “It’s revealing because it holds a mirror up Photo by JaMar Jones.
CUE THE LIGHTS | CULTURE
to who I am as a person and it forces me to be honest about what I feel, how I feel and why I feel it. I can’t express the honest emotions of my subjects and characters if I’m not honest with myself.” In exploring and discovering himself through his work, Tucker also uncovered a confidence he believes will propel him to new heights as he begins directing and producing his own projects. “I don’t look outside of myself for the answers anymore. Whether I’m on set, conducting an interview, making a storyboard or just living my everyday life, I know the answer I need to present this story or solve this problem is already within me. All I have to do is listen.” View Tucker’s work at aaronmtucker.com and follow his journey on Instagram @aaronmtucker.
A still from "Arise," a fashion film and one of the first directed by Tucker.
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86 | APRIL // MAY 2022 A still from “Black Women in Opera: Legacy of Royals,” where Tucker’s photography brings an overlooked legacy to the forefront. Stills courtesy of Tucker.
LIFE
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D.C.’S INDIE
MOVIE HAVEN Suns Cinema embraces the eclectic WORDS BY COLLEEN KENNEDY
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LIFE “Sometimes we randomly find things, get really excited and lean into it,” David Cabrera, co-founder of Suns Cinema, shares about the curatorial process for the District’s most idiosyncratic movie house. Cabrera, outfitted in a Steve Zissou-style red beanie and black bandana tied jauntily around his neck during our interview, is speaking about “Cats of Park Avenue,” the 1989 Japanese film about a group of dancers who aspire to create a musical about the neighborhood strays. After sharing the convoluted plot line, he summarizes: “It has more cat screen time than any other film. How do people not know about how amazing this movie is?” “It’s like ‘Black Swan’ meets ‘Cats,’ but better than both,” deadpans co-founder Ryan Mitchell, bespectacled and wearing a purple satin starter jacket while sitting in front of the infamous leg lamp from ‘A Christmas Story.’” Cabrera whipped up an appropriately kitschy teaser trailer to entice viewers. The film was a big hit with Sun Cinema’s clientele, joining the clowder of other cat-themed movies in February 2022, including the stoner comedy “Keanu,” the supernatural noir “Cat People,” the touching Istanbul documentary “Kedi” and the classic screwball romance “Bringing Up Baby.”
Vintage Viewing in an Intimate Screening Room “We just want to show the films we like,” Cabrera shares. “The ultimate goal is to show as wide a swath of movies as possible: good, bad, new, old, weird — whatever.” The two-story movie theater and hipster lounge in Mount Pleasant knows how to make the most of 30 evenings and weekend matinees. With decor nodding to favorite films (Margot Tenebaum’s zebra wallpaper behind the bar, the geometric carpeting from “The Shining” in the hallway, “Pink Flamingo” wallpaper in the bathroom) and makeshift, sometimes wobbly seating, the arrangement creates a cozy, intimate viewing room. It’s more grabbing drinks and hanging out to watch eclectic art films and discount bin gems at a friend’s place than hitting up a cavernous, tech-savvy IMAX theater. That’s always been the mission. Even if you don’t know anyone at the start of the movie, you settle into a seat near a stranger, laugh at the same jokes, get teary over the big breakup scene and maybe chat during intermission while grabbing a cocktail. “You may not want to watch a bad film at home and waste your day,” Mitchell states. “‘Pet Sematary’ is really fun to watch with other people.”
films (think “Die Hard”) in December or highlighting Black filmmakers in February. Other months become a bit more esoteric. “Down By Law” in November 2018 (named after the Jim Jarmusch cult favorite) features cops (“Beverly Hills Cop”) and robbers (“Le Cercle Rouge”), mobsters (“The Godfather I and II”), judges (“RBG”) and juries (“Twelve Angry Men”). There are layers to their micro-curation and inside cinematic jokes. Mitchell suggests reading the calendar vertically to discover those mini-themes. He explains, “No one would probably care but there’s a whole little story going on with this calendar.” With American Genre Film Archive (AGFA), they’ve found a go-to distributor that has created a cabinet of curiosities who is responsive to their requests and seems as much fans of shock and schlock as Cabrera and Mitchell. “They’re clearly the people who are working, trying to find cool stuff and get it shown,” Mitchell says with admiration. “They are fans of their own stuff and it shows. So are we.”
Home Movie Curation Tips Cabrera and Mitchell are pros at selecting movies for the enjoyment of others. They keep a running list of films they hope to show and potential themes for these films. They regularly check out Letterboxd and Screen Slate for reviews and listings of foreign, forgotten and unfamiliar films. They’ve cultivated their cinema history, developed their libraries and queues and converse with other film buffs. And they have a few tips for making the most of your home viewing enjoyment. Stepping away from the infinite onslaught of titles found on Netflix or Amazon Prime, they recommend finding an already semi-curated streaming service, such as the Criterion Channel for highbrow selections or public library freebie Kanopy or MUBI, the service most like their own with its monthly roster of films. Mitchell suggests getting back to basics. Look up the IMDB profile of a favorite director or character actor to follow their career trajectory and their specialized genres. Cabrera admits sometimes moviegoers clam up around them, thinking the Suns Cinema owners are movie sages who have unlimited film knowledge. “I only know what I know about,” he admits. “There are no wrong answers with films. People like what they like. As long as you’re curious and you follow the rabbit hole to wherever your interests take you, that’s cool.” “People often ask if we’ve done a month on this or that,” Mitchell says of those who are more confident in their film tastes. “People want to share their favorites, too.”
The Joy of Embracing the Weird “We throw ideas to each other,” Cabrera explains about their selection process, though he was originally drawn to works more likely to be part of Criterion canon. “And if it seems like a really bad idea, we try to go with it and see how far we can push it.” Mitchell initiated the monthly theme idea from the get-go when they launched the theater in 2016 after years of planning and crowdfunding. Some monthly themes are no-brainers, such as focusing on horror films in October, anti-Christmas 90 | APRIL // MAY 2022
To learn more about Suns Cinema and their upcoming schedule, visit sunscinema.com and follow them on Instagram @sunscinema. Suns Cinema: 3107 Mt. Pleasant St. NW, DC; sunscinema.com // @sunscinema
FIRST PAGE. Suns Cinema. SECOND SPREAD. (L TO R) David Cabrera + Ryan Hunter Mitchell. Photos by Nicholas Karlin.
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TheSpace toGrow Underground cultivators in the District WORDS BY UMARAH MUGHNEE It’s almost like Initiative 71 has a veil of some sort. I-71 gives consumers the opportunity to dabble in the cannabis agenda but not quite enough room to dive right in. The fact consumers are able to gift marijuana along with a non-cannabis purchase allows for a lot of wiggle room and creative opportunities for recreational brands to grow. The less mainstream technicalities of I-71 allow residents to cultivate up to six marijuana plants in their primary residences with no more than three mature plants. The veil of I-71 is not so mysterious: It more or less acts as a buffer to keep the marijuana market from exploding in the District.
Photo courtesy of CornFedTed.
The underground culture of D.C. cultivators is subtle but prolific. A lot of urban growers are turning toward cultivating their own cannabis behind closed doors. Due to marijuana’s stigma, many cultivators still prefer anonymity and are known by their “grow name,” similar to a stage name for artists. MoDose (aka Megan Crooks), for instance, is a cultivator who channeled her love of urban farming into growing cannabis. She started off by growing tomatoes and peppers and her curiosity led her to apply the same skills to growing cannabis. “I was so nervous attaching myself and my name to it,” Crooks continues, “and honestly I was like ‘What’s so taboo about it? What’s the big deal? It’s normal.’” Her favorite method of ingesting is cooking with the concentrate made by harvesting sugar leaves on her plants. Sugar leaves are the small, sometimes colorful leaves that hold the flower together at the top of the plant. They contain high amounts of cannabinoids, terpenes and trichomes which give the leaves a frosty appearance. Crooks explains how she can tell if the harvest is flourishing by how visible the trichomes are on her sugar leaves. Her grow process allows her to personalize her marijuana and the benefits each cultivar may bring. “You can control the quality, grow for yield and grow for the flavor,” Crooks says. “You can customize it.” Crooks uses a water culture hydroponic system that constantly oxygenates the potted plants using an air pump submersed in the water underneath it. She grows both Maui Wowie and White Widow because she likes the benefits these varieties provide. She gifts her concentrates and flower to close friends and family members who use the products to help treat insomnia. There are several benefits to growing cannabis — but Crooks explains how the process takes patience. It’s more than just putting a seed in the soil. “You think you know when you had your first success grow and then there is always something and there is no clear path,” she says. Another cultivator in the District, CornFedTed (aka Ted Colbert), mentions part of the reason he grows is for the medicinal benefits. He started growing when his next door neighbor was diagnosed with cancer
LIFE and the doctor prescribed him medical marijuana for treatment. Soon his neighbor started growing his own medicine and Colbert started learning the ropes. Coupled with refusing to pay expensive dispensary prices and plenty of trial and error, Ted eventually became a thriving cultivator. Using organic soil to grow his plants, Colbert found himself cultivating efforts to help his older family members, friends and even their parents. Anecdotally, he suggests the cultivars he gives to his loved ones are able to help with conditions like insomnia, anxiety and pain management. For his uncle, he explains how he makes lozenges for him and even extracts tincture to give to his mother. Cultivars that yield the strongest benefits are Sugar Plum and Blood Orange. He agrees cannabis is medicinal and can be used to assist with relieving qualifying conditions. However, for growers there are several barriers to entry when it comes to expanding cannabis cultivation under I-71, even when it’s for medicinal purposes. “When it comes to expanding and getting a cultivation license, growing in the District is challenging,” Colbert explains. “When you’ve paid all the fees and done all the prerequisites, you’re at roughly half a million dollars if you’re doing it right. And then you still might not get the license. It’s almost like a gentlemen’s club with the city for cultivation licenses. It’s a social equity issue.” I-71 is a young initiative with plenty of room to grow. Ensuring the veil of I-71 is transparent enough for growers to cultivate up to six cannabis plants — but opaque enough to keep expansive cultivation just out of reach — is coming frontand-center as more growers emerge in the District. Looking at historical patterns of D.C. legislation and how cannabis is becoming more decriminalized and legalized across
the country, I-71 could possibly shift with it. In everyday conversation marijuana is becoming more normalized. We can even point to the rising popularity of D.C.’s very own National Cannabis Festival as a suggestion to this trend. Aimed to celebrate and educate the community about good cannabis cultivation, the sixth annual National Cannabis Festival on Saturday, April 23 opens its doors to the National Cannabis Championship. This competition is a way to normalize cannabis used medicinally and for pleasure by creating a stage for cannabis cultivation. The judges will vote on the following categories: DC THC Flowers, Virginia THC Flowers, Hemp Flowers, Hemp Edibles and Hemp Topicals. Due to restrictive state laws, the championship can only welcome THC submissions from D.C. and Virginia. Flower, topical and edible hemp submissions are welcome from the Mid-Atlantic states of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia and Washington, D.C. MoDose summarizes marijuana cultivation when she says, “Growing is an ever-evolving thing.” Simply put, I-71 should take off the veil and evolve with it. Find MoDose on Instagram @themodose and CornFedTed around the Columbia Heights neighborhood. Search on leafly.com for more information on the strains listed. For more information about the science of cannabis visit leafwell.com. Don’t miss the National Cannabis Festival on April 23. National Cannabis Festival: 2400 E Capitol St. SE, DC; nationalcannabisfestival.com // @natlcannabisfest
DISTRICT FRAY MAGAZINE is now available for purchase at 20+ Whole Foods locations in the D.C. area. Purchase yours today!
WORDS BY JAMIE MCCRARY
In recent years — especially with ongoing Covid-19 restrictions — rock climbing has evolved as a favored activity among outdoor enthusiasts and gym-dwellers alike. A versatile sport with just as many mental demands as physical, climbing boasts multiple forms and styles for both indoor and out. Rock climbing is notoriously difficult to break into, however, requiring niche gear, training and specialized techniques. So, how can the curious climber break into the climbing world without a major misstep — or breaking the bank? We’ve put together this beginner’s guide to help.
GRIP + CLIMB
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BEGINNER’S GUIDE | PLAY
Find Your Niche Climbing comes in many forms, including bouldering, top-roping and lead climbing. Each style requires a different technique and approach, and as a beginner you’ll want to study and try each. “Look for ways to experience it all and see what interests you the most,” says Jeff Shor, director of marketing at Sportrock Climbing Centers. Bouldering is generally the most accessible type, requiring the least amount of gear and safety measures. When bouldering, climbers free-climb on smaller rock formations closer to the ground. No ropes are required — and indoor boulderers can climb partnerfree. Rope climbing, which includes toproping and lead climbing, is a different beast. Climbers traverse taller rock faces via a ropes and anchor system, managed by an on-the-ground climbing partner. For rope climbing, climbers need endurance (and a healthy appreciation of heights), and a belay certification to operate the anchor system. For beginners, Shor recommends attending a guide-led intro class or workshop offering a sampling of different styles. Indoor courses are typically best to start, as climbing gyms offer a more controlled environment than outdoor spaces. Local climbing gyms like Sportrock offer a slew of options for novice climbers. You’ll also want to thoroughly research each style before physically testing. Online publications like REI’s “Uncommon Path” blog or climbing. com (Climbing Magazine) are great resources; for live climbing footage, simply check out YouTube.
Get The Gear Regardless of chosen style, all climbers will need two basic and essential types of gear: chalk and chalk bags, and climbing shoes. Chalk, whether powder or liquid, helps create friction between hands and rock so climbers can grip holds properly. Chalk is typically stored in either block, ball or loose form in small adjustable chalk bags which climbers can attach to their waists. Shor advises investing in simple, more basic products to start. “You’ll see people who seem to have a Milana Ortega. Photo by Dorothy Wang.
lot of knowledge with specific types of gear, which isn’t necessarily best for a new climber,” he says. “You don’t need the most expensive stuff to start.” New climbers will also want to invest in a solid set of shoes. An appropriate climbing shoe is absolutely essential for developing strong technique — and ensuring climbers’ safety. Shoes come as neutral (flat), moderate (slight camber) and aggressive (strong camber) to support different technical levels. Beginners should seek flat, neutral shoes, which are great for fullday use and less technical climbs. Shoes typically come in velcro and lace-up style, which accommodates variable fit preferences. No two brands or styles will fit the same, so be sure to try on in-person before purchasing. For bouldering outside: a solid crash pad to shield potential falls is essential. For rope climbing: You’ll need a secure climbing harness (indoor/outdoor), a helmet (outdoor) and your own climbing ropes (outdoor).
Practice + Study Your Craft For beginners, longevity is everything. “Don’t focus on training,” Shor advises. “Focus on time on the rock or the wall. Climb often and you’ll progress quickly.” Learning proper technique early on is also essential. Beginners often mistakenly assume strength and power is key to artful climbing, when in fact success lies in a developed and sophisticated technique. Always start with footwork: Beginners commonly rely too much on the arms. Focus on your feet and legs — the strongest part of your body — as your power source, rather than pulling up with your arms. This approach helps protect your arms from fatigue and saves an exponential amount of energy. Next, focus on balance and handholds. Generally you’ll want to position your body the opposite direction of handholds, which helps efficiently balance weight. This technique also helps prevent climbing only with square hips —another common destabilizing pitfall. Finally, learn some moves. Common beginner and intermediate moves include flagging (balancing your leg against the wall rather than in a
foothold), edging and drop knee, to name a few. To save energy, chart your route mentally first —and be sure to take rests and breaks as needed to replenish your energy along the way.
Use Your Resources + Community For beginners, the climbing community itself is often the best resource. Beginners are encouraged to meet and partner with other climbers – whether novice or experienced – to figure out routes and learn new techniques. Milana Ortega, marketing assistant at Sportrock, says this is one of her biggest lessons learned. “If I could go back and tell myself one thing when I was first getting started, it would be to utilize my resources,” she says, “whether through a climbing gym or through the relationships I build.” Shor agrees. “It’s group problem-solving,” he says. “You find age doesn’t matter, what you look like doesn’t matter, who you are doesn’t matter. You might have a 14 year old girl talking beta with these grown burly dudes.” The online climbing community is also an option. Consider climbing blogs and forums for technique advice (Reddit has some great user-generated feeds), or watch instructional videos. Neil Gresham, a UK-based climber and trainer, is one personal favorite. Gresham’s masterclass series on YouTube offers simple and methodical approaches to climbing technique and best practices. Most of all, come with an open mind. Every route and group is different, but the climbing community is for everyone. “Leave your preconceptions at the door,” Shor says. “Climbing is a sport that will meet you wherever you are, no matter who you are” To learn more about the local climbing community and resources for beginners, check out Sportrock Climbing Centers at sportrock.com or follow on Instagram @sportrock. Sportrock Climbing Centers: 5308 Eisenhower Ave. Alexandria, VA + 45935 Maries Rd. Sterling, VA; sportrock.com // @sportrock DISTRICT FRAY | 95
PLAY | BEGINNER’S GUIDE
CLIMBING GYMS Sport Rock Climbing Centers: 5308 Eisenhower Ave. Alexandria, VA + 45935 Maries Rd. Sterling, VA; sportrock.com // @sportrock Movement (formerly Earth Treks): 1235 S Clark St. Arlington, VA + 725 Rockville Pike Rockville, MD; movementgyms.com // @movementgyms Brooklyn Boulders: 1611 Eckington Pl. NE #150; brooklynboulders.com/eckington // @brooklynboulders
GEAR SHOPS LOCAL GO-TO REI: Various locations; rei.com // @REI FOR RECYCLED GOODS The Gear Fund Collective: linktr.ee/ gearfundcollective // @thegearfundcollective ONLINE BEST-SELLERS Backcountry: backcountry.com/climb // @backcountry
RESOURCES TIPS, TRICKS + BEST PRACTICES “Uncommon Path” by REI: rei.com/blog // @rei STORIES + ROUTE IDEAS Climbing Magazine: climbing.com // @climbingmagazine LEARN FROM THE MASTER Neil Gresham Climbing Masterclass Crux Films: youtube.com
OUTDOOR PICKS SWING BY AFTER WORK Great Falls Park: 9200 Old Dominion Dr. McLean, VA; nps.gov/grfa/index.htm HEAD TO SHENANDOAH Elizabeth Furnace: thecrag.com/en/climbing/ united-states/elizabeth-furnace FOR THE DAY-TRIPPERS Catoctin Mountain Park: 14707 Park Central Rd. Thurmont, MD; nps.gov/cato/index.htm WORLD-RENOWNED New River Gorge: Glen Jean, WV; nps.gov/neri/index.htm
Milana Ortega. Photo by John Nguyen.
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WORDS BY CASEY PAZZALIA
For a while it looked like our country might be without its favorite pastime this spring. A work stoppage in major league baseball raged on through the early part of 2022, delaying spring training and Opening Day as a result. Yet, as morale dwindled among fans the two sides struck an agreement on March 10 to end the lockout and move forward with the 2022 season. Originally, Opening Day was set for March 31 but the new target start date is just a week later on April 7. The games missed in the first week will be made up throughout the season. In light of how labor disputes have gone in the past (the MLB didn’t have a World Series in 1994 following their last strike) it could have been worse. That said, a shortened or canceled season would have been difficult to swallow from a fan’s perspective, considering we’re not too far removed from the 2020 Covid-shortened season. Another extended work stoppage could have hurt from a business perspective as well. MLB ballparks are the centerpiece of their neighborhoods — not unlike Nationals Park — and we’re coming off backto-back seasons where things have been off. No fans in 2020 and limited fans for parts of last season certainly hurt the restaurants, bars and retail. Now, as restrictions are easing and things are becoming more normal, a work stoppage would have really felt like a punch in the gut. Instead, we’re gearing up for what should be the biggest sports month in years. With baseball squarely in the picture and serving as a backbone of sorts, April also features marquee events like the men’s and women’s Final Four (April 1-4), Masters Tournament (April 7-10) and NFL Draft (April 28-30). Additionally, the NBA regular season ends on April 10, followed by the start of the postseason on the April 12. The final month of the NHL regular season runs until April 29, as well. The Nationals open their season at home with a series against the rival New York Mets. New at the stadium this year is the BetMGM sportsbook, located right next to the centerfield gate. Inside, you’ll experience 40 crisp televisions, betting windows and kiosks and a full food and beverage menu. Open seven days a week, BetMGM is the first retail sportsbook connected to an MLB stadium. If you’re at a Nationals game in person, you can use the BetMGM app from your seat What surrounds BetMGM and Nationals Park is part of what makes it so alluring. You can be at a sportsbook one minute, then getting the best latte around at Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery the next. On gameday, The Bullpen is a tried-and-true staple, as is Walters Sports Bar, named after former Washington Senators pitcher Walter Perry Johnson. On baseball off days, you can rely on Mission Navy Yard. Over the years, I’ve seen some of the best college hoops watch parties over there; they definitely do it right and have a good vibe. After one Virginia win in 2020 — right before the pandemic, unfortunately — the entire bar was embracing and singing the school’s signature tune “The Good Ole Song.” You would have thought you were in Charlottesville. DISTRICT FRAY | 97
PLAY Other notable spots for fans of out-of-town teams include Hamilton’s Bar & Grill where Green Bay Packers and Wisconsin fans are always welcome; Dirty Water, a Boston sports bar that even does its own podcast; and Ivy and Coney, a neighborhood spot dedicated to Chicago and the Midwest that understands the importance of having a game’s sound on. Wherever you decide to take in the great sports month of April, try to truly appreciate it. Two Aprils ago we had no sports and plenty of big questions. Last April, we thought we were taking steps forward but then eventually went back. This time there’s still plenty of uncertainty around us but sports are a great escape, as well as the ultimate unifier. The Bullpen DC: 1201 Half St. SE, DC; thebullpendc.com // @thebullpendc Dirty Water: 816 H St. NE, DC // @dirtywaterdc Hamilton’s Bar & Grill: 233 2nd St. NW, DC; hamiltonsdc.com Ivy and Coney: 1537 7th St. NW, DC; ivyandconey.com // @ivyconey
Mah-Ze-Dahr Bakery: 1205 Half St. SE Suite #105, DC; mahzedahrbakery.com // @mahzedahrbakery Mission Navy Yard: 1221 Van St. SE, DC; missionnavyyard.com // @missionnavyyard Nationals Park: 1500 S Capitol St. SE, DC; nationals.com // @nationals
spring Schedule April 1 + 3
Women’s Final Four
April 2 + 4
Men’s Final Four
April 7
MLB regular season starts
April 7-9
NCAA Frozen Four
April 7-10 Masters Tournament
Ending April 10
NBA regular season
Walters Sports Bar: 10 N St. SE, DC; waltersdc.com // @walters_dcvv
Beginning April 16
NBA postseason
April 28-30 NFL Draft
Ending April 29
NHL regular season
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WORDS BY AMANDA WEISBROD
IN OTHER WORDS Matt Talley’s love for music runs deep. But not just the action of listening to it, no — it’s taking the time to clean a vinyl record, reading the liner notes, discovering the origin of the sample in a favorite song; it’s all about the process of listening to LPs that does it for Talley and with his latest endeavor, he hopes to bring this experience to others. In September 2020, the music aficionado defied the unfortunate fate brought on by the pandemic of most brick-andmortars and opened his own: Cool Kids Vinyl. The shop, located above Maketto on H Street, features both vintage and contemporary records as well as retro memorabilia like magazines and action figures with a focus on Black culture. Talley has taken some steps toward building upon Cool Kids since its opening, like partnering with Three Keys Coffee to create his own hip-hop-inspired roasts, but feels the best is yet to come. “[Cool Kids] is a huge step in furthering what I want to do in my career, but I feel like I haven’t reached my magnum opus yet,” Talley says of his future plans. “For me, it’s a genuine passion project. I’m just happy people like it.” District Fray: What inspired opening Cool Kids Vinyl? Matt Talley: Originally, it was a traveling hip-hop exhibit [called ‘Diggin’ Thru the Crates] my mentor DJ Alizay and I started seven years ago. It was an event where you would dig through crates of new and old music [to find] whatever song or album you want to hear — then give it to a DJ to play what you picked. [It was] very nostalgic, very vintage of course (the vinyl compliments that). Having different magazines, cassettes and other hip-hop memorabilia gives you that feeling along with the event. Right before Covid, we did a five city tour sponsored by Mass Appeal and Monster. Then the pandemic happened and we had to close up shop and ended up transitioning to a brick-and-mortar store.
Do you have one record in particular you used to listen to a lot as a kid? Growing up, I lived in the CD player era but I was one of the last people to give up cassettes. And some albums to this day sound a little bit better if you put it in a stereo and listen to it on cassette rather than a CD or YouTube. I would say as an adult I found entry into vinyl culture. I spent a little bit of time in London a long time ago and was alone my first couple days there. I was looking around the apartment and [found] a record player, so I went to this record store down the street and bought Nas’ “Illmatic” and Outkast’s first record on vinyl. It was literally the only thing I did [until my friend arrived]; I didn’t know where to go or what to do. I literally played those albums until they started to scratch.
That’s interesting. A lot of brick-and-mortar businesses went online during the pandemic but you guys opened a new store. Yeah, when you put it like that [laughs]. But I’ve worked at Maketto for four years now — it’s a very unique place here in D.C. We like to consider it a marketplace that is essentially a restaurant but it has facets of retail. It’s a little bit of a lot. Our second floor was a cafe service but during the pandemic, of course, we couldn’t do dine-in until September of 2020. It was a good idea to create something on the second floor to garner community back into the space as we opened back up. People grew a liking to it.
How does Black culture influence what Cool Kids is all about? It’s a solid hip-hop experience but at the same time, it is Black culture. One of the first gifts a person gave me [after] opening up the record shop is a Life magazine from 1965. It’s the oldest magazine we have in there and it [includes] the story about the 1965 L.A. Watts riots. On the front page, you see kids almost in this militaristic stance. It’s so powerful. It’s a moment in time you can sit in the record shop and in 10 minutes read that article with so much knowledge and history. [Cool Kids] is essentially an educational yet stimulating experience walking through a record shop. I like to think of it as an encapsulation of Black culture.
I know vintage memorabilia is another big part of Cool Kids. Why aren’t you just doing records? There are different textures that make up the space. It gives you that balance of nostalgia and seeing things you wouldn’t typically see or don’t even remember seeing. What do you love so much about records — vintage records in particular? A few [things]: I started out working at a record shop. I worked at HR Records [as part of] their opening staff, and working at HR it’s either really busy or you won’t see people for hours. I would spend a lot of time by myself listening to music and when you’re sitting in a record shop with like 3,000 records, your range can be all over the place. Listening to a record I’ve never heard of in my life [gives me] this sense of discovery. I feel like everybody’s into something and for me, it’s the information of music. You get that with vinyl.
What do you hope people will feel or experience when they step foot into your shop? I want people to feel comfortable and stimulated in the experience we try to give off. The unique thing about this place in particular is you can get a kid from the neighborhood to come in and buy a 21 Savage vinyl and an hour later his grandma can come in and buy a five dollar Stevie Wonder record. They both get the same experience and feeling when they walk in, which is the comfortability of the space and the stimulating experience. [The hope is to] not just have you there, but keep you there and keep your business. Learn more about Matt Talley on Instagram at @talleyismajor. Cool Kids Vinyl // Maketto Upstairs: 1351 H St. NE, DC; 202-838-9972; coolkidsvinyl.com // @coolkidsvinyl
100 | APRIL // MAY 2022
Matt Talley. Photos courtesy of subject.
What is your favorite album of all time? John Coltrane’s “A Love Supreme.” What’s the last song you listened to? “Is There Someone Else” by The Weeknd. What’s your guilty pleasure music? I listen to a lot of Amy Winehouse. Favorite D.C. haunt? I’m always on H Street. I toggle back and forth between CopyCat and another place called Hill Prince. It’s a watering hole, the debriefing place. What’s your go-to coffee order? A cortata with oat milk with a little bit of honey syrup if you have it. Batman or Superman? Superman. Batman isn’t a superhero. Favorite part of the Super Bowl LVI halftime show? I really love Kendrick so it was great to see him come out of his hole and perform. What musical instrument do you wish you could play? I wish I could play the piano. The piano looks super cool to play. It’s Friday night and you don’t feel like cooking. What do you order in? Chinese for sure. That’s the one that comes the fastest, too. Pizza is an option and/or wings. Very junky. What does your favorite T-shirt look like? I have a T-shirt (created by @slowjamz.co on Instagram) that has a list and a drawn picture of all the Soulaquarians — it’s a well-rounded collective of people who recorded a lot of their albums with each other. DISTRICT FRAY | 101
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There’s nothing quite like browsing an antique store. The air is thick with memories and days gone by, as each object has a backstory — every pulled thread in that vintage Chanel blazer, every ring on that mid-century coffee table is evidence of its past life. D.C. has no shortage of antique stores where any denizen can find a once-forgotten gem and give it a fresh start and new beginning. This puzzle is a brain teaser for those who love to reminisce and find themselves wisting after the good old days. Test your knowledge of all things classic here and if you get stuck, find the answers at districtfray.com. Happy solving!
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ACROSS 2. Drinkable fare found at 43 down
26. 1980s color scheme
4. “The” original Hippie fest
29. Queen of Pop
6. Bittersweet yearning for times gone by
31. Popular song by 64 down
7. Trendy 1950s dish
36. Bowie’s alter ego
9. What LP stands for
40. Sounds of excitement
11. Sci-fi film series
41. Retro vinyl shop off H Street
12. Post-WWII tension
42. Gamers’ haunt
15. “Dark Side of the Moon” group
44. The Fonz, for one
17. Planted during wartime to relieve food shortages
47. Big brand radio first sold in 1921
68. The District’s antique timepiece sellers, abbr.
48. Mattel’s girl
69. Before Facebook, there was ___ 70. ___ Fitzgerald
22. “Back to the Future” family
50. Parents of the1950s thought these coloful panes would corrupt their children
23. Stuffed animal craze of the 1990s
51. Not-digital D.C. vintage clothing store
19. The King 20. Fifty-cent treasures found here
33. Former official shoe of the NBA
54. Portable music player of the ’80s and ’90s 57. Known as the first teenage fashion trend; popular in the 1950s 59. Backyard baseball movie 61. What AOL stands for 62. What VHS stands for 66. Main pastime of the 1960s 67. Frontman of three down
DOWN 1. Mick Jagger’s group
39. What D.C. stands for
3. “Bohemian Rhapsody” group
43. Where eggs are scrambled
5. What CD stands for
45. King of Pop
8. Eclectic D.C. antique furniture store
46. Once part of a TV station’s sign-off
10. Star of a classic sitcom that ran from 1961–1964
48. Popular collector’s item
13. Sung by Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”
50. “Little red ___”
14. Old but coveted 16. Not 45 down’s lover 18. Aka Rose Nylund
49. 1980s workout attire 52. Quality timber 53. First at-home video game console 55. ___ modern
21. Before text messages, we had ___
56. Community action project by SWATCHROOM
24. Ancient internet access device
58. Little red wagon
25. Before keyboards, there were ___
60. Hairspray
27. Prince’s acronym 28. Morning meal group
63. Online but D.C.-based vintage furniture vendor
30. Mother and father
64. Legendary lefty guitarist
32. Looming threat during 12 across
65. Vintage Ford
34. One of the best-selling jazz vocalists of all time 35. Famous train set producer
NOTE: Check districtfray.com for the answer key.
37. Famous “Rocky Horror Picture” quote 38. Trebek’s game show DISTRICT FRAY | 103
FUN
CONNECT THE DOTS ILLUSTRATION BY E$
104 | APRIL // MAY 2022
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DISTRICT FRAY | 39