Diverse World Fashion | 9th Issue by DWF MAGAZINE

ISSUE 09|FALL 2016

MOBILE MOBILEPERSONAL PERSONALTRAINING TRAINING PRIVATE PRIVATESTUDIO STUDIOFITNESS FITNESSTRAINING TRAINING FITNESS FITNESSPROGRAMS PROGRAMS&&ASSESSMENTS ASSESSMENTS CORPORATE CORPORATEFITNESS FITNESSPROGRAMS PROGRAMS HEALTH HEALTH&&FITNESS FITNESSCONSULTING CONSULTING Providing exercise training Providing exercise training in Tallahassee in Tallahassee since 2000. since 2000.

Michelle M. Miller, BS, CPT Michelle M. Miller, BS, CPT MMFITNESS.COM • 850.545.9284 MMFITNESS.COM • 850.545.9284

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

DIVERSE WORLD FASHION AUTHENTIC | SHARP | DIVERSE

FACEBOOK.COM/DIVERSEWORLDFASHION @DWFMAGAZINE @DIVERSEWORLDFASHION 4

DIVERSEWORLDFASHION.COM

Noelle Torrillo EDITOR IN CHIEF

MANAGING EDITOR FINANCIAL DIRECTOR WEBSITE DIRECTOR COPY EDITOR

Tre Crews Christie Harrison Courtney Hollis Charlotte Renner

DIRECTOR OF CONTRACT COMPLIANCE Haley Steinberg

WOMENSWEAR DIRECTOR Haley Slocum WOMENSWEAR TEAM Bria Blossom Ali Curtin Ericka Diaz Emily Lamboy Briana Lewis Superie Palmer MENSWEAR DIRECTOR Shawn Caldeira MENSWEAR TEAM Danielle Brown Lanier Hicks Lloyd Newby Kelly Rogowski Devin Winter

FASHION DIRECTOR Cody Cacciatore HEAD STYLIST Maiya Carmichael STYLISTS Julia Bellanger Christie Clarkson Vikiyah Duncan Katie Hall BEAUTY DIRECTOR Alyssa Camareno MAKEUP ARTIST Meghan Maynard EVENTS DIRECTOR Kendall Creedon EVENTS TEAM Madeline Ballestero Adriana Leguizamon Carolina Perez Valerie Segebre

WRITERS Courtney Cotterill Lauren Edmonds Sophia Hernandez Yasmine Mattoussi Corrie Ostrander Jamira Perkins Maya Saxena Lavorian Smith Brooke Ward PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR Jennifer Vasbinder PUBLIC RELATIONS TEAM Raquel Allen Chloe Bogdajewicz Zoda Carey BOOKINGS DIRECTOR Erika Sorensen MODEL SCOUTS Briana Smith

LAYOUT/GRAPHICS DIRECTOR Brittany Gress LAYOUT/GRAPHICS TEAM Jennifer Egelfeld Taylor Himelstein ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jillian Graboski ADVERTISING TEAM Monica Caserta Ariel Engel EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHERS Daniel Estrada Mikayla Gamble BEHIND THE SCENES PHOTOGRAPHER Tytiana Horton STAFF ARTIST Martine Harrison

SPECIAL THANKS TO: OUR FACULTY ADVISOR, MICKEY DAMELIO ESTHER MARTINEZ AND HER TEAM AT MACY’S GOVERNOR’S SQUARE MALL ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

In This Issue

Inner Health, Outer Beauty

Letter From the Editor

Isn’t This Luxurious? Editorial

Morality in Makeup

How Sneakers are Reshaping Women’s Fashion

Beauty Trends Around the Globe

Retro Redux Editorial

Pretty in Punk Editorial

Fresh. Editorial

Breaking Gender Norms: One CoverBoy at a Time

Jordan’s, Yeezy’s, and Adidas, Oh My!

DIVERSEWORLDFASHION.COM

Rustic Winter Editorial

Wo(man)ly Editorial

Recycling Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trends

Victorien Moderne Editorial

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m With the Band Editorial

Growing Diversity in the Modeling Industry

The Death of Gender in Menswear

Cabin Fever Editorial

Serious Moonlight Editorial

102

Acknowledgements

Alessandro Michele: The Unexpected Genius of Gucci ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

r e t t e l IN C

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DIVERSEWORLDFASHION.COM

hen the time came to choose a theme for our Fall 2016 issue, I thought about the correlation between the past and the present and how without one, there simply could not be the other. From this idea, the concept of a Modern Revival arose. Drawing inspiration from the past while simultaneously looking through a modern magnifying glass, we were able to showcase current interpretations of iconic trends, a wide variety of models, and millennial ideas about the numerous facets behind beauty, style and fashion overall. Not afraid to stray from societal expectations of beauty, in the article, “Breaking Gender Norms: One CoverBoy at a Time,” the act of growing from the past and evolving over time is presented as we are taken on a journey through the life of CoverGirl’s first male spokesperson, James Charles. On the flip side, “Growing Diversity in the Modeling Industry,” an interview-based article that featured students opinions on industry standardized models, emphasized the notion that fashion no longer abides to an outdated checklist of rules and standards, nor should the models wearing the garments. After many weeks and countless hours of pulling and styling clothing, coordinating schedules, and driving to and from locations, we were able to execute ten photo editorials in settings that strengthened the story behind each photo shoot, while still showcasing a modern twist on a revived classic. In the collaborative shoot, Cabin Fever, timeless fabrics like suede and denim were showcased in a new light distressed, lighter in feel, and a little rough around the edges. I’m With the Band, our cover editorial, showcased three women from various backgrounds all adorned in modern day takes on iconic Rock and Roll groupie looks from the 1970’s. As a result of strongly implementing our consistent theme of diversity, no more than one photo shoot told the same story, highlighting the importance of different ideas and outlooks amongst our entire team. It is with great honor and joy that I can say this semester saw not only one of the largest teams, but also, the largest issue in Diverse World Fashion history. Leading a team of such intelligent, creative and distinctive individuals has been a wonderful experience and privilege thus far. I thank you all for trusting in me as I have trusted in you throughout this entire process. As Miuccia Prada once said, “fashion is an instant language,” and I hope that through the pages of this magazine, the numerous conversations between the past and the present cannot only be seen, but heard by you as well. Sincerely, Noelle Torrillo, Editor-in-Chief

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Let’s fast forward a few months to beauty blogger Anastasia of Lipsticks and Lightsabers, now gone from the internet, and a post she made comparing Lime Crime swatches with that of TKB cosmetics, a beauty wholesale manufacturer. Repackaging of products is not a new or illegal practice, as many cosmetics companies are owned underneath the same umbrella corporations, meaning their formulas are no longer exclusive. The problem with Lime Crime lies in the handling. As a response to the allegations that she was simply repackaging cheap wholesale cosmetics Deere made a video of herself illustrating the production process and what goes into making each product. The video has since been made unviewable to the public but it’s been reported that there were shocking similarities between Deere’s production video and another video released by TKB two years prior; however, this is merely hearsay, so take of it what you will.

MORALITY IN

Makeup

In a haze of Twitter bashing and Instagram rants, we’ve all without a doubt watched one of our revered “favs” being taken to the chopping block. The Internet can be an unforgiving place, and rightly so when white girls constantly bombard us with dreadlocks, bindis, and henna tattoos (if this doesn’t strike a chord with you maybe Google the phrase “cultural appropriation” for some background). So when it comes to companies that you support financially, doesn’t it make sense to take advantage of the World Wide Web perhaps for its most important feature: the power to lurk. We are awarded the great privilege of an innumerable amount of imaginary interconnected boxes of knowledge on any subject our brains can drum up, so why aren’t we using it where it matters most? Peek into your makeup drawer; who do you see? Do you know anything about the people behind the labels or the ingredients on the packaging? Do you even care? When speaking on problematic figures in the world of makeup, it only seems fitting to start with Lime Crime, a brand surpassed only in sketchiness by none other than its creator – the infamous

Doe Deere. You can decide for yourself if that infamy is

positive or not as this is surely not the first time Lime Crime has been brought up short of praise. Let’s start back in 2009 directly preceding the growth of Lime Crime as a company, back when Deere was spending her time running a scam of an online vintage shop (hemming dresses with duct tape) and threatening to sue thirteen-year-old girls who reportedly didn’t give proper photo credit to the business woman. This seems humorous as Deere herself was later accused of re-packaging products and claiming originality.

BEAUTY

Moving onto the facts let’s look at the way Lime Crime treats its customers and its ingredients. Starting back in 2009 Deere has been threatening and following through on serving law suits and cease-and-desists to anyone who dare question the integrity of the brand. Beauty blogger Grey from Le Gothique wrote a less than glowing review of Lime Crime’s products to which the company reportedly responded with a letter threatening legal action if the post was not taken down and an apology published provided by the company itself – the post has since been removed. Another blogger, Michelle Jascynski, was sued after running one of the first blogs dedicated to critiquing the company; the lawsuit included damage to reputation and lost sales. These are just two of the most notable cases involving the company on harassment of bloggers for speaking their mind. The next company hitch comes when the FDA gets involved for ingredients reported on product packaging that may or may not really be used in the makeup. The two ingredients under question are ferric ferrocyanide and ultramarine, neither of which is deadly or all that dangerous, but still disapproved by the FDA for use internally or on mucus membranes (like your mouth). The company simply blamed this on a product-labeling mistake. The icing on the very problematic cake here comes with the company’s close relationship with cultural appropriation and insensitivity. Deere herself has been photographed dressed up as Hitler for Halloween and the company has come under fire for an eye

shadow palette called China Doll. The promotional images for the palette featured a white female model posed in Japanese garments with the tagline, “Don’t let her milky skin, pouty mouth and flushed cheeks fool you, underneath the poised facade, there lies a heart of a tigress.” The backlash for this was simply brushed off by Deere in a statement claiming that cultural appropriation is merely a “cultural exchange.” In summary, Arabelle Sicardi says it best, “Like a poorly applied long-wear lipstick, Lime Crime survived, with only the occasional flake on the brand’s image on Instagram.” Moving on to a smaller fish fry we encounter Jeffree Star, the MySpace personality and self proclaimed scene queen. Star himself has spoken out against Deere for her hijacking of other people’s fame and we can all surely recall his feud with

Kat Von D earlier this year, but let’s just talk about him for a second. Back in the days of MySpace, fame Star and another drag

queen in blackface made a video in which Star uses several racial and sexual slurs and states that he would like to throw battery acid onto a black girl’s skin in order to make her foundation match. A couple years down the line he gets into an internet feud with popular black beauty blogger Make Up by Shayla in which he calls her a liar, attempts to insult her appearance by saying she looks like a man, and then threatens physical violence saying that he wants to “beat her.” Adding to the list are his choices of lipstick

names, the two in question being “Abused” and “Masochist.” As any victim of assault (or anyone with a social conscious) can testify, there is no humor in the appropriation of violence for revenue.

Okay, now back to that nasty feud with Kat Von D. Earlier this year Kat called Star out on Instagram for reportedly not paying the artist BJ Betts, who is responsible for designing his infamous logo that is still in use. Kat also calls him out for his racist tendencies and blatant sexism against female makeup artists. When it comes to racism and representation maybe Kat shouldn’t be the one pointing fingers; a recent photo of her core makeup team features a sea of white faces. The point is punched in even harder when photos of her new shades for the Lock-It foundation were released; out of thirteen new shades only four were suitable for darker skin tones and lacked a great deal middle ground between shades. There’s also that nasty rumor of an anti-Semitic photo signed with a swastika that was reportedly handed in by Kat to a former coworker at Miami Ink, intended for the owner of the shop Ami James. Kat has repeatedly refuted the claims that she is responsible for the picture but has yet to dispute the claims that she handed it to coworker Chris Garver. Similar to Star in this next faux pas, Kat’s makeup line has come under fire for lipstick names that seem to promote statutory rape. Time and time again she has claimed full creative control over her brand so there is no dismissing her use of names like “Underage Red” and “Lolita,” especially when a product name is truly so inconsequential to its success, it makes no sense to even flirt with the offensive.

notably producing “lip kits” in a variety of basic neutral tones it truly comes as a shock that these even sell out at all, but it seems the real power is in a name. So what’s behind Kylie’s name? Well there’s that Instagram of her in cornrows employing AAVE (African American Vernacular English) while continuing to stay silent on issues concerning the black community; as well as her fetishization of black features while simply brushing off other public heads like Amandla Stenberg when attempting to question Jenner’s failure to use her social power for more than likes. Aside from social platitudes the Kylie Cosmetics brand has recently come under fire for a situation similar to that of Lime Crime. Are they simply repackaging cheaper ingredients and then up charging for the name brand? The matte lipsticks after initial release were critiqued for being too drying and after reformulation a customer pointed out their newfound similarity to that of Colour Pop’s Ultra Matte lipsticks. After further investigation one would discover that the same company, Seed Beauty, manufactures Kylie Cosmetics and Colour Pop. It gets even weirder discovering that Seed Beauty is owned by Laura and John Nelson, who also happen to be the founders of Colour Pop. Referring back to that tidbit earlier about repackaging— nothing that Kylie is doing here is necessarily illegal but it does come off as pretty sketchy when you compare the ingredients list and realize that Kylie customers are paying about $40.13 for a lip kit including matte lipstick and lip liner while essentially the same products are available from Colour Pop for around $16.32. As was stated earlier, this was meant to inform and expand your ideas about the makeup industry and the people behind it. If you’re dropping big bucks on the latest matte lipstick you deserve to know the values that you are also supporting. Renowned beauty blogger Stephanie Nicole perhaps said it best, “it circles back to the ethics of this company and the owner, and every time you buy something from them, you’re basically condoning this behavior.” • Brooke Ward

Another celebrity turned makeup guru is the ever-present

Kylie Jenner

and her brand Kylie Cosmetics. Most ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

FALL 2016

BEAUTY TRENDS AROUND THE GLOBE

In todays social media influenced society, trends often appear to spread like

wildfire but in the blink of an eye, they are extinguished and/or simply abandoned by much of the fashion community. While fashion trends may always give you an excuse to splurge at the mall every week, as they are constantly changing, beauty trends are perhaps the most fun and economically friendly as they can sometimes have less variation from season to season, depending on the trend. This Fall there is a lot to be excited about when it comes to beauty. Whether you are someone who likes to push the boundaries or keep it au-natural, there is a trend for everyone! These various beauty trends are making waves around the globe after debuting at many of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier fashion events throughout much of 2016. Be sure to adopt a few of these trends during the Fall season that continue to reign the runways and you are bound to turn heads!

LATIN AMERICA Colored Lower Liner

To achieve the look, add a pop of color and unpredictability to your look by adding a bold liner under your eyes! In Latin America, this trend has replaced utilizing highlighter below the lower lash line, which intends to draw attention to the eyes. Pair it with a nude lip for a more natural look or a matching lipstick/liner combo for that extra wow factor!

BEAUTY

FRANCE

Clumpy and Graphic Lashes A trend that first made its appearance on the Spring/Summer 2016 runways has continued to reign supreme with models this season featuring similar doll-like lashes. To rock a similar look, apply a generous amount of mascara to your upper and lower lashes, however, avoid applying more than ten coats as you’ll just be left with a clumpy mess! For added drama and dimension, use eyeliner to draw exaggerated “lashes” on the lids and lower lash line.

UNITED STATES Dyed Hair

If you’ve ever contemplated changing your hair color to any shade but its natural hue, now is your time to do it! Though this trend is perhaps more prevalent on social media and the red carpet than it is on the runway, it is definitely one you don’t want to miss. Whether you gravitate towards a less exaggerated platinum blonde or all out like Kylie Jenner with a different color every week, don’t be afraid to make the change!

INDIA

Exaggerated Eyeliner

There’s no denying that on the runway in India, winged liner is a huge staple! Although cat eyes have been a classic trend for decades, 2016 saw the dramatized version of the look – replacing a smooth clean line with two or more to create a striking staggered effect. Playing with different colors is a plus too!

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

ITALY

Wet Hair Models with slick wet hair flooded Milan Fashion Week this season, from shows such as Prada to Giorgio Armani. This trend is perhaps one of the more convenient ones as it entails close to no work! If you do not have time to dry your hair in the morning, do not fret! Instead, style your hair with some gel and groom it back into a slicked back ponytail or side part! Or, for a more natural, light appearance, you can create beach-inspired, salty texture by using styling spray!

KOREA

Non-touring

2015 was the year of contouring, while 2016 runways have shown us, this is the year of nontouring. What is non-touring you ask? Think of baby-faced Gigi Hadid, minus the harsh chiseled cheekbones, featuring a non-painted face. In order to replicate this look, use softer colors and more natural contouring strokes on the cheeks in order to create a look that enhances your bare beauty. Focus on making your skin look luminous and fresh for this trend by substituting powder products for liquid products.

BEAUTY

AUSTRALIA Glitter Accents

Too much is never enough! Glitter conquered the runway in Australia this year, no matter where it was applied to the face. Use it generously to accent the eyes, inner corners, upper cheekbones, lips, or anywhere else you please and you will be ready for a night out on the town!

UNITED KINGDOM Glowing Skin

Trade in your high-end highlighters for some illuminators and essential oils that create an intense glowy complexion to achieve this look. Do not be afraid to go all out and skip the powder for that extra sheen! This look is all about creating a natural flush and having the skin look as luminous and dewy as possible. â&#x2013; Courtney Cotterill

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

PRETTY Punk IN

Photographer: Daniel Estrada Concept Creator: Meghan Maynard Makeup: Alyssa Camareno, Meghan Maynard Hair: Noelle Torrillo Models: Adriana Diaz, Briana Smith, Becci Keating, and Jillian Graboski

BREAKING GENDER NORMS One CoverBoy at a Time A makeup enterprise founded on being an “easy-breezy beautiful Covergirl” has startled the media and fashion world with their new cover model, James Charles. The first non-celebrity, and male model to grace the company’s advertisements, has broken various gender boundaries, causing people all over the world to turn their heads and intriguing them to learn more about this beautiful man. Creating an infamous platform on YouTube and Instagram, seventeen-year old High School Senior, James Charles, first branched into the fashion and beauty world through his passion for makeup. He initially started his journey with an interest in hair when he was younger, but when asked to do his friend’s makeup for a special event, he thought he would give it a try. He began watching makeup tutorials online and shortly discovered a newfound love, which encouraged Charles to purchase his first makeup kit and start charging clients for makeovers. More recently, he continuously surprises viewers with different looks and concepts, such as bold glittery eyaes, dainty freckles, and intricate Halloween characters, all of which he showcases through his social media platforms, as well as his newer appearances with brands such as Cosmopolitan. His large and amounting group of followers proves that this young man’s artistry evokes the idea that 22

BEAUTY

makeup is no longer just for women, which in turn, intrigues society. Using his talents, Charles has been able to prove that the fashion world and beauty dogmas can be broken, and genderless boundaries are accepted as the new norm. Although James Charles has created a lot of buzz, other famous male celebrities such as Jaden Smith and Young Thug also encourage this movement of equality and acceptance in the fashion hub, erasing the lines of sexuality, ethnicity, race, and identity as expressed through clothing, accessories, etc. CoverGirl has encompassed this idea of blurred lines by having Charles as the newest spokesman for a new mascara line, wanting him to be a fully integrated, and integral part of the process. CoverGirl wants to express to both men and women that makeup is not something that only women can or must use, but it is a fun experience that makes an individual want to become a bigger part of themselves, whether it be prettier or more whimsical, or more broadly, whatever their heart desires. Upon researching who James Charles really is and why he was chosen to be the face of CoverGirl, it can be noted that he comes from a humble upbringing, but is passionate in regards to his endeavors in influencing and furthering the change that is necessary in the realm of fashion and

art. Men want to experiment with makeup as well, and Charles challenges individuals of any identification to become comfortable in their own skin, and do what makes them feel and look good. Although he has been granted this once in a lifetime opportunity to be in the likes of household names such as Katy Perry and Zendaya, it has been anything but smooth sailing for Charles. His parents and family were confused when he began his makeup journey, questioning his sexuality and identification. Charles wanted his family, and now the rest of the world, to realize that having an appeal to makeup does not label you; makeup is as intriguing to men as it is to women and it should be available and worn by whoever chooses to do so. There are still many layers that have to be shredded before individuals see art and beauty for what it really is, and not the models or the faces behind it. Various male magazines and publications have used Charlesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; platform, and continue to relay the idea that makeup is not something that is gender specific, but rather, it happens to be an unnatural thing to do (like putting gel into our hair or the act of painting our nails). We do not need makeup to define us; we use makeup as a fun tool, and as a way to express ourselves,

regardless of our gender. The gender fluidity that is seen in the fashion world needs to reach the makeup industry, allowing men in skirts to also own eyeliner.

Progression has been made within gender norms and gender equality, but Charles recognizes the controversy and importance of his new role in the limelight. Makeup on males has not been fully accepted yet, and has been compared to drag on many occasions. But, he wants fans to realize that makeup on men can just be makeup on men, and that the fashion world needs to become more open minded and provide appealing environments that will make men want to feel comfortable with their urges to break out of those molds. Fashion and beauty are both realms that inspire individuality, uniqueness and self-expression. We are called to use clothing, shoes, accessories, and makeup as a means of self-discovery and connection, allowing us to appreciate art and in a sense, become it. No matter male or female, watching someone such as James Charles complete masterpieces on his face, should prove that makeup is enticing and enjoyable for anyone, regardless of gender. â&#x20AC;˘ Sophia and Bianca Hernandez ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

TakeAdvantage: Inner Health Outer Beauty INNER HEALTH It can be hard to take care of your health when you have a busy schedule, like most, if not all, of us have in college. You may not have enough time to exercise or, you may forget to eat altogether. Eating healthy and not skipping meals are essential parts of remaining in good standing with your body and maintaining a healthy lifestyle. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day so if you know you have to skip a meal a day, you definitely don’t want to miss this one! It’s the meal that will give you the energy needed to start your day and carry you on to the next meal. If you’re running late and don’t have enough time to cook breakfast, grabbing something to go, such as a granola bar or piece of fruit, is your best bet. Fast food is an easy choice in college for lunch and/or dinner when you are dealing with classes and a jam-packed homework schedule, but it would be best to stay away from it. In most cases, fast food doesn’t provide your body with the nutrition that’s most important because it’s high in calories and may contain added sugar and salt, which will more than likely lead to that unwanted freshman 15. Obviously, having an unhealthy diet is bad for your health but you still may wonder, “what exactly will it do to my internal health?” THESE ARE SOME NEGATIVE EFFECTS THAT UNHEALTHY EATING CAN HAVE ON YOUR BODY:

HEALTH AND WELLNESS

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i l s on ,400 iova be a nsum e in Card e not co should you tak ends 2 t m e a s T on a you’r ce, ther tty food s recom over th IGH putting t the n u e g a l a E f n t p i s Th d h e . n u W i an lin h anyt isease just ng abo our y R d t t e l u a O a t M o s d i y e ts i J b r w s. of MA talking a , I’m talk besity. If foods basi er day t risk fo id are m ied y l i p o a s a r o e v f t t d t a o nd to ori f sal hear eats, s to I’m n e of pou at leads igh-cal dy will ds mg o g your d drink s, red m as. l h o n h p f t b u u n d o o t r i n n o t i p d c ou put foods a an mea , and so cess ht ga prise ty, y F s g r n e i c o weig are com al activi w the ex burned a a i KO t , m fat ugar ju RIS h hear e o c g s i n b h n i s y D i s a y t o E h t s t a d i h o g t S e i p h d w s A r h e g n o e i i d ld n g ng fte as RE s, h and ually be are inten n in. A , it wou INC : Alo r dise such food s e t ALL EASES y othe t, R e i E even calories y are tak n calorie rn off OV DIS re man hy d , and t ! i u e l e R d b a c • h h e t e E n a ig h is H n si e nd nsum OT oros n un ther ery h ca l a e tha o mor that is v et physi t were c aking ease e with a s, osteop s i d m g l a com bete mea st to go ories th and/or hard in ds that pe 2 dia l e e e y be b extra ca ing tim m can b althy foo T as d y e e er. thos urse, fin to the g m unh ut a lot! canc o o o r o f c g u g o n Of ort to y i elp itch ff an e e, so sw es will h g n e o l l r co althie e to h

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A diagram showing all the negative effects of unhealthy eating.

OUTER BEAUTY Outer BeautyThe old cliché states “you are what you eat” and it holds literal and figurative truth because when you have an unhealthy diet, your skin can show it in forms of acne breakouts, non-glowing skin and yellow eyes. The foods you eat can and will become who you are by affecting your internal health as well as showing through on your outer appearance.

and glowing skin, aside from overall health, because of its capability of flushing your system, keeping you hydrated throughout the day, and preventing illnesses. The recommended amount of daily water intake on average is 1.5 liters a day, which is an easy challenge to achieve if you carry a water bottle on campus or keep one in your bag!

A persons weight and skin are among some of the first things someone notices about himself or herself, as they are exact indicators of how well you take care of yourself. Foods that are good for your internal health are obviously good for your external beauty as well. However, that being said, it is important to remember that eating one bad thing will not cause a sudden change in skin as it all depends on how frequently you are eating poorly and/or whether or not you are allergic to something.

Although trying to maintain a healthy lifestyle can be defeating at times when scheduling conflicts do not allow for quick workouts or marathons of meal prepping, it is important to note that above all else, your body type is something you’re born with and cannot be changed. Positive diet and exercise will maintain your figure and keep your external beauty as flawless as can be, but will not change the shoulders or torso you were gifted. Adapt a lifestyle comprised of mostly healthy lifestyle choices and you will be sure to avoid illness, when and if possible, and look, but more importantly feel your best.

Working in tandem with eating a healthy diet and maintain regular exercise, drinking water plays a significant role when it comes to fresh

• Lavorian Smith

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

s i h T t â&#x20AC;&#x2122; n s I ? s u o i r u x u L

Photographer: Daniel Estrada and Mikayla Gamble Concept Creator: Devin Winter and Kelly Rogowski Makeup: Alyssa Camareno, Meghan Maynard Stylists: Cody Cacciatore, Julia Bellanger Models: Kelli Sinnott, Shivani Barot, and Sophia Hernandez

Coat: Calvin Klein Shoes: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Top: Cabernet Sleepwear Coat: Vintage Boots: Steve Madden Earrings: Sophia & Kate

Pants: Calvin Klein Top: Custom Shoes: Nine West Sunglasses: Isaac Mizrahi Earrings: I.N.C.

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

How Sneakers are Reshaping Women’s Fashion

The question is no longer whether it is chic for women to be sneakerheads. At this point, sneakerhead culture is in full force for women and men alike, althoughwomen are still largely excluded from much of what the culture consists of, including the many styles, colors, and special editions that are made for men. Nonetheless, in the last fifteen years alone, the popularity of women’s sneakers, not for practicality but purely for style, has risen tremendously. All over the world, from New York to London to Tokyo, stores with ceiling-to-floor walls of sneakers in every style imaginable beckon sneaker connoisseurs inside. The fashion world has taken the sneaker trend in style, adding couture sneakers to collections, and street style photos flaunt top models in the latest Yeezys or vintage Adidas. Women have taken the sneakerhead world by storm, and are still only at the beginning.

The Rise of the Female Sneaker-Wearer

Women’s Sneakers Worldwide

While there is no specific timeline as to when women came to be trailblazers in the sneaker industry, trends throughout the past 30 years have shaped the impact of women on the subculture of the fashion industry. From seventies’ Converse, eighties’ Reeboks, nineties Gazelles, to today’s Stan Smiths, women have been sporting a chic sneaker to give their outfits an edge for decades. Women can be seen wearing what were once known to be men’s shoes, and with effortless style, at that. Fashion week is now an array of sneakers paired with silk dresses or posh midi-skirts. As women’s fashion evolves into less frillmore versatile, sneakers have been an important step along the way. When it comes to incorporating sneakers into everyday style, American women are actually quite behind. In Japan and Europe, namely, sneakers have been a driving force in the world of street style. Across Europe, stores selling only sneakers are in abundance, and while these exist in the U.S., in Europe, they appeal to the general public. American sneaker culture is seen as a small subculture, pertaining only to those who collect special editions of sneakers. In parts of Europe and Asia, sneakers have become a hobby of just about everyone, about everyone, regardless of gender or age. Many women are even seen incorporating sneakers into their office wardrobe, and have been for years. Now, the question must be asked, why hasn’t this hit America yet? The answer to that, of course, being it is well on its way. Women around the U.S. have realized what a great alternative to boring flats that sneakers make; chic, sleek white leather sneakers seem to have become a staple in just about everyone’s wardrobe this past year. But when not working, sneakers still play a huge role in trends. Almost every month a new Adidas, Puma, or New Balance collaboration debuts and sneaker-lovers worldwide scramble to be the first ones to order them.

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Sexism in Sneakerhead Culture As unique, artistic, and amazing as sneaker culture is, it due to the dumbing down of footwear into ‘shrink it does have its pitfalls. Often, few women are seen as the and pink it’ pieces designed by men. Brands have been numerous sneaker-collectors at conventions, and the divide launching female sneakers with what they think we want to wear, and doesn’t end there, the shoes themselves are far more catered have little insight as to what we actually want to wear.” Often, brands towards men than women. Kayce Khiara spoke to Elle magazine think that women do not want to be wearing the same shoes men are of her annoyance at the lack of estrogen at these seen in. Yet, for many women who simply want to wear the shoes that the conventions. Dismayed by the fact that women purveyors are sneakerhead world is raving about, it can be frusnot evident at the sneaker conventions she attends, trating to see that those shoes are not available like Dunkxchange, she notes, “it’s to them. Women simply want to be really just for men.” “Sometimes included in what they believe to be a there’s a female sitting there to be sex culture that relates to them just as much as the female market has been appeal, to attract guys, but there’s never providing very little diversity in it does to men, and for them to be able to a female booth.” So, she often drives do that, they at least need to be able to buy product in product due to the two and a half hours to Portland, shoes in their size. Women have taken the Oregon, to talk her way into the Nike dumbing down of footwear into world of sneakers by storm. They wear them employee store, where she can get ‘shrink it and pink it’ pieces deon the street and on the runway, finding a sneakers for half price. Often the wall signed by men. multitude of ways to dress them of sneakers “for women” is miniscule up or down. Sneakers have been a compared that “for men,” and on top of vital part of women’s fashion for years, but now, they that, much less exciting. The colors, designs, and shapes of are becoming more versatile than ever. What was once the shoes are supposed to be aimed towards what the thought to be a men’s subculture has opened up, while not companies think women will like. However, many womyet all-inclusively, to new heights for women of all races en find themselves shopping in the men’s section, looking for the and ages. Inspiration for how to style the new Fenty Puexpertise and artistry put in the men’s sneakers that mas can come from L.A. and be worn in Paris, and vice-versa. fails to show in the selection of women’s shoes. Sneaker While sneakers have always been around, women are storeowner Susan Boyle once spoke to Complex magazine, deciding, now more than ever, that it is time to shake claiming that, “the female market has been providing very little off the stigma that they are only meant for the gym. diversity in product in product due to the dumbing down of Yasmine Mattoussi

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ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Dress: I.N.C. | Sweater: I.N.C. | Braceletes: I.N.C. | Shoes: White Mountain

Photographer: Daniel Estrada Concept Creator: Ali Curtin Makeup: Alyssa Camareno and Meghan Maynard Stylists: Cody Cacciatore, Christie Clarkson, Julia Bellanger, Katie Hall, and Maiya Carmivhael Models: Jayla Butler, Kayla Hope, Lauren Hundt, and Savannah Tanney

Sweater: I.N.C. | Skirt: I.N.C. | Shoes: Tory Burch

Sweater: I.N.C. | Skirt: I.N.C. | Shoes: White Mountain

Jacket: I.N.C. | Turtleneck: I.N.C. | Jeans: I.N.C. | Shoes: Michael Kors

Photographer: Mikayla Gamble Concept Creator: Shawn Caldeira Stylists: Maiya Carmichael Models: Belinda Spiritty, Austin Crawford, Trey Anderson, and Anthony Dunn

FRESH.

Shirt: Model’s Own Pants: Model’s Own Shoes: Model’s Own

Shirt: PRSNLTY Pants: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Shirt: PRSNLTY Overalls: PRSNLTY

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When we call to attention the greatest designers and contributors to global fashion, household names like Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani spring to mind, their places at the proverbial table already reserved through years’ worth of established style credibility. Next to them, though, are seats awaiting to be claimed by new trend innovators, and as we look towards the future, two of those seats will be claimed by basketball star LeBron James and the infamous Kanye “Yeezus” West. What started out as the basic fascination with different sneakers and their builds, quickly turned the then 48

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blooming Sneakerhead culture into a high fashion, ground breaking, economically booming business. As we see the addition of sneakers on famous runways and into celebrities’ wardrobes, we learn just how impressive the impact of sneakers is having on the fashion industry as a whole. The Sneakerhead movement began as a subculture, finding it’s footing in between the creases of mainstream America and on the soles of local neighborhood ballers. While Marquis Mills Converse started the initial buzz over his Converse AllStar basketball shoes in the early 1900’s and eventually the classic Chuck Taylor

All-Stars, it wasn’t until the 1970’s that sneakers really began to turn heads. At the famous Rucker Park in Harlem, New York, local basketball heroes and professional players began to wear the newest edition of Adidas shoes (built in revolutionary suede or leather) while playing in the annual Rucker Tournament. The turning point for sneakers, when it went past simple admiration and turned into a lifestyle, is argued to have come about two ways: the release of Michael Jordan’s iconic Air Jordan 1’s in 1984 and the partnership between Adidas and hip hop group Run-D.M.C.

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Produced by Nike, Inc, the Air Jordan 1’s were what Nike called “revolutionary new basketball shoes” and based off the frenzy they still cause over two decades later, we’d say they were right. The Air Jordan 1’s, designed with red and black colorway for the Chicago Bulls, were subsequently banned from the NBA for not containing enough white in the colorway and as a result Michael Jordan was fined for wearing them during game play. While this seems like a setback for the shoe mogul, the fine didn’t deter Michael Jordan at all and he continued to wear his custom kicks with Nike covering all the NBA’s billing fees. The constant controversial media coverage surrounding the Air Jordan’s, much to the NBA’s surprise, helped boost consumer excitement and cement the sneaker series into pop culture. Thousands of people clamored for a pair upon their public release in 1985, almost as if to say “If Michael Jordan thinks these shoes are important enough to pay $5,000 every time he sets foot into a game, then they’re important to me too.”

an endorsement deal worth $1.6 million. Not only did this deal make Run-D.M.C. the first non-athletes to receive such a deal, it brought to light the validity of urban style. In today’s world, sneakers and the communities that revolve around them has extended past the United States into the international realm. In Japan, a sizable marketplace has come from the fashion of sneakers. The Japanese Sneakerhead culture began in the mid-nineties with the booming success of the Nike Air Max in Tokyo. After that, local shops opened up that catered to the buying, selling, and overall appreciation of sneakers. Skit, a sneaker resell store owned by Katsushige Kamamoto, is one of the most successful sneaker businesses in Japan with four stores currently open. Surpassing over 15,000 pairs of shoes in his inventory, Kamamoto’s business is a prime example of the revenue that can be made through Sneakerhead culture. He is quoted saying, “I think Sneakerheads have a same problem. We buy shoes even though we don’t wear them. We want new shoes, but we don’t have money. I wanted to open a shop that can buy ‘those’ shoes for good money.”

The second event that cemented sneakers into the land of fashion is accredited to superstar rap group Run-D.M.C. In May of 1986, Run-D.M.C. released their single Another Japanese successful Japanese “My Adidas”, bringing national attention Sneakerhead is Hommyo Hidefumi. to the shoe brand. The song was such Regarded as one of the most influential a hit with fans that during a concert at men in the business, Hommyo got his Madison Square Garden, 16,000 fans were start importing sneakers from America encouraged to hold up their own pairs of to Japan and then selling them in a small Adidas shoes during the song. It’s true that vintage sneaker store called Chapter. Adidas had been selling shoes since 1949, Business was thriving but when Run D. when in 2001, Nike M.C. dropped their approached Hommyo In today’s world, song celebrat-ing to not only open sneakers and the the classic shoes it another shop, Atmos, communities that surged a revival in but also collaborate for revolve around them the sneaker brand. have extended past the the first time ever on With Run-D.M.C. it the Japanese favorite United States into the was more than just Nike Air Max 1. Upon creating the song, international realm.. release, the shoes sold it was the way they out instantly. And it’s wore the sneaks too. The hip hop trio is not just homegrown enthusiasts either who famous for wearing their shell top Adidas are seeing the benefits the Sneakerhead Superstars without laces, letting the tongue business. Ever since the sneaker come up in what is supposedly inspired by revolutions in the 80’s and 90’s, high the footwear commonly worn in prison. “My fashion designers around the globe have Adidas” allowed the intersection of hip hop also wanted in on the movement. Marc and fashion to occur in front of the nation’s Jacobs and Vans collaborated together on eyes, and can perhaps be one of the factors several designs and produced six seasons that helped the new youthful street culture of Marc Jacob x Vans classics. Jeremy Scott crossover into mainstream media. As you x Adidas collaborated on multiple, well can imagine, Adidas saw the opportunity known creations like adding wings to Adidas for a partnership and offered Run- D.M.C. hi-tops and making teddy bears footwear.

Conversations about Sneakerheads and the corresponding culture, like much of fashion, seem to have a heavy draw from male designers and male collectors, but this isn’t to say that women don’t have voice in this fashion phenomenon. Vashtie Kola, an American filmmaker and DJ among so many other things, was given the opportunity in 2010 to become the first woman ever to design a Jordan sneaker. After running into a friend who worked for Nike, she told him of her love for sneakers and showed him her custom made Air Jordan III birthday cake she had at her party earlier that year. She redesigned the Air Jordan II in celebration of its 25th anniversary, giving it a modern, feminine twist. Vashtie chose colors like lavender and dark purple to transform the basketball sneaker into an unforgettable addition to the sneaker culture history. American DJ Sam Ronson has also contributed to women and sneakers. Ronson collaborated with Supra Footwear to create Lil Red, a limited amount high top basketball shoe in what she called the “Jordan colorway”, consisting of red, black, and white. The Samantha Ronson x Supra partnership also produced the Indy, as well as the Samikaze. As the Sneaker culture continues to grow and flourish in various directions, the understanding that this movement was fostered on the black tops of basketball courts, neighborhood corner stores, skate parks, and barbershops—this piece of the fashion world was ignited by everyday people is an invaluable aspect. Sneakerheads have helped shape the fashion industry, creating space for groups of individuals who pioneer a different type of fashion for different types of people. This culture will leave it’s footprints on the fashion world, and as pro skateboarder Rob Dyrdek said during a interview for the 2015 documentary Sneakerheadz, “There’s a handful of things that can define who you are without saying a word, and your shoes are one of them.”

◉ Lauren Edmonds

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Rustic Winter Photographer: Mikayla Gamble Concept Creator: Superie Palmer Makeup: Alyssa Camareno Stylists: Cody Cacciatore, Maiya Carmichael Models: Kayla Burke, Hank (black horse) and Rosie (sand-colored horse)

Dress: Wonsaponatime Vintage Hat: Wonsaponatime Vintage Shoes: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Recycling

Women’s

Trends Denim layered with denim, intimidating and polished boots, boxy outerwear: themes that we have seen before, from 1980’s Guess Jeans and their consistency in layered denim, to classic 1940’s Doc Martin “I’ll dropkick you” shoes, are back in style, again. Fashion is recycled, it has nothing to work from but what it has already produced. Recycling in fashion brings about a rehashing of trends. This is universal through men’s, women’s, and children’s; the variables in fashion repeat and repeat. Designers currently pull, and have always pulled inspiration from the past eras. Usually, each era has passed with an underlying theme to brand it with a style, a look, and a feel. From the sleek mini color coordinated 90’s, an extension on the slim and playful 20’s, the flared, patterned 70’s, an evolution of the loosely fitted silhouettes seen in the 40’s, these styles have lived before, but 56

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reimagining these past styles in new ways is no fashion crime. Like all forms of art, fashion is always revamping and rebuilding. The prefix re- implies that there is some progression in this cyclical process. Cultural and societal progressions have been aligned; lately, these progressions have been with each other, hand-in-hand towards societal ideas of gender acceptance and culture/fashion ideas of gender neutrality. Themes of unisex/gender-ambiguous clothing have arisen alongside the more progressive expression of gender that we have allowed. When fashion is not primed by gender roles, identity can play with style freely. Specifically within

“women’s trends,” there has been a shift into what is thought as a “men’s” aesthetic; revealing itself in fabrics, architecture, wider cuts, looser pants, frayed edges, and structured shirts. These themes in style are found in all fractions of fashion. Of them all, the most accessible is street style. Street stylists pull from what we have access to in our communities and what is realistic to both purchase and wear. Within street style, progress has always been seen in brands such as Uniqlo and Untitled and Co. These brands have offered unisex colors, fits, cuts, and shapes on a diverse group of models since their start. Uniqlo originates from Japan but has stores in 14 countries; each operating in the same style. No one-store layout is more divisive than the other; “men’s” and “women’s” are intertwined. United and Co. from Toronto models the exact same clothing on both men and women and claims on their website that “there is no ideal appearance.” These clothing brands being accessible to the every day person allows for the experience of equality in a common environment. This experience is had by simply walking through clothing displays that can be worn by any gender, seeing models wearing unisex clothes, and noting campaigns for a genderless scent (Calvin Klein CK2). At Selfridges, a department store in London, they have redesigned their floor plan to be organized as three stories of non-labeled, non-distinct clothing. Their newest collection consisted of graphic, structured jackets and shin length, loosely straight trousers. Their clothes are campaigned with both men and women represented in each piece. The experience is full.

gender-less fashion. Hari Nef walked alongside a mixture of genders of models in Louis Vuitton’s SS17 runway. She wore outfits from silver and gold embroidered, silk suits to transparent, shoulder-padded long sleeve t-shirts. This range, though wide, still does not step into the submission of gender roles. This theme of women walking alongside men in fashion shows and vice versa is prominent and what the world of “women’s fashion” has become. Slick Woods was seen wearing an oversized, autumn-toned, plaid and pleated suit to the Council of Fashion Designers (CFDA) Awards and then was seen in an almost-couture, baby pink, hooded and heavy Fenty by Puma (by Rihanna) ensemble. Women are free to move about the spectrum of expression of identity via clothing because of styles like oversized, genderless suits and pastel, luxurious athletic wear.

“Designers currently pull, and have always pulled inspiration from the past eras.”

Women like Hari Nef, a new model, and Slick Woods, an even newer model are representative of this openness to

So far this trend has been discussed in street style: the most approachable facet, and the up and coming icons: the less approachable but still approachable facet of fashion. When approaching an aspect of social progress, these tiers of the population are relatable. Genderless styles in the everyday environment impose normalcy on the subject. It is bold in its own way. It is not only affordable designers who have been releasing neutral clothing. High brand designers are going neutral too. Rick Owens with black leather, extreme-turtleneck trench coats and black/white treaded basketball high tops (both genderless), Rad Hourani with a website that does not specify by gender but instead by item of clothing and features every item with both men and women models

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

(shirts that can be dresses and collared shirts that work on anybody), and Miuccia Prada who had unisex, plaid vests and boldly patterned dress shirts in her women’s SS17 collection. These designers are running with the idea of, as Miuccia Prada has stated, “translating the same idea for both genders.” This statement and mentality remove the necessity of “men’s” and “women’s” from dictating any aesthetic decision. Gendered terms have been a source of influence for design, intentionally or not. These swanky designers have an audience of the wealthiest of the world, selling anything more than a scarf for more than $1,000. But the people who have access to these designers also have (somehow correlating) more influence on society. This is why pop culture exists, to direct people into cultural phenomena. The well reputed and well reported high brows who can wear these brands send statements to the masses that the multiplicities of identity that exist are not only okay, but “cool.” The adoption of genderless styles in this level of fashion very much supports the movement towards a more gender-accepting culture and is influential “from the top.” The reason “women’s” trends and “men’s” trends are becoming one in the same is due to the natural evolution of any cultural system. The prominence of these neutral trends in fashion icons such as celebrities and models, high fashion runway, street fashion, campaigns, and every subtype from athletic to couture, proves thoroughly enough that fashion is best served with a side of acceptance. With the empowerment of women came the shift towards A-line skirts that could rest at the knee and shirts with elegant necklines. With the empowerment of animal’s rights came the shift towards environmentally conscious and vegan fabrics. With the empowerment of gender identity has come, and will continue to come, the convergence of the previously, very gender-separated categories of fashion.

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Maya Saxena

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

I'm with the band Photographer: Mikayla Gamble Concept Creator: Ericka Diaz Makeup: Alyssa Camareno, Meghan Maynard Models: Haley Slocum, Briana Smith, Heidi Emperatriz Stylists: Mikayla Gamble, Noelle Torrillo

Bralette: Urban Outfitters | Jeans: Vintage Reunion Denim | Shoes: Charles David | Jacket: Guess | Tights: Party City

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Slip: Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret | Jacket: Hollister | Shoes: Stuart Weitzman | Tights: Party City

Slip: Victoria's Secret | Jacket: Barney's New York | Shoes: Model's Own | Choker: Free People | Tights: Party City

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

THE DEATH OF GENDER

IN MENSWEAR From as early an icon as the loin-cloth to Young Thug’s most recent dress-sporting statement on the cover of his 2016 album “JEFFERY,” it’s clear that fashion has always been a forefront of cultural movement, representation, and social change. Specifically in men’s fashion over the past handful of decades (…or centuries), many aesthetic taboos have been placed over the body of the Western world. Ranging from gender distinctions along the waves of dress, to strict emotional partitions, it’s been a goal of the West to section everything off from one another as if society were a color-coded, divided dinner plate. Though, as we’ve ridden ungentle into that good night of the 2000’s, there has been a shift in the dialogue on our gender definitions. Where Vogue editors once stormed out of a 1984 Jean Paul Gaultier show donning men in skirts, they now celebrate men’s fashion for catching up (or at least trying) to women’s demolition of gendered dress. On one end, women’s wear is evolving more towards men’s, as runway and street style prefer more unisex and genderneutral modes with wider cuts and baggier clothing. Where as the other end shows men’s flirtation with its own femininity in wider necklines and more tapered fits. Like most trends, it’s implied that what’s made popular will fluctuate, come, then leave…but the most notable part of this genderlessness “trend” is it’s integral mark on conversations of identity. After decades of pushing and pulling the seams,

genderlessness is beyond a pop-up trend; it’s a declarative manifesto. Despite many public accusations on menswear’s recently stale and lifeless runway seasons, it’s difficult to ignore the high-traffic names in the fashion industry that have put non-binary at the top of their address books. Large labels such as Gucci, Raf Simmons, and Vetements can be found at the forefront of this dialogue, engaging high fashion with the extraneous gender. The providence of menswear gives us the impression that we’re going somewhere, but we haven’t quite made it yet. This being said, menswear is not stagnant…it’s the forward thinking of labels such as these that produce clothes that give notion of a transitional period. In these cases, gender is defied in a more traditional style, ornamenting menswear with decorative colors and patterns, and a nonchalant approach to luxury. Gucci’s SS17 Menswear line incorporated a classic Hugh Hefner success kind of style with floral, satin fabrics, large, pastel colored bows, and robe garments, throwing in the occasional lace-up sandal and printed neck scarf. Raf Simmons continued the conversation with large shirts and overcoats, sprinkling in long, chocker necklaces and cropped sweater vests, and Vetements summarized the trio dragging on the defiance by turning down the gender-season divided show, having both men and women walk simultaneously down the runway. This in turn produced a more cohesive, collaborative, unidentifiable wearer.

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Just below the high light, labels like Patric DiCaprio’s Vaquera, Claire Barrows, and Phlemuns by James Flemons have contributed supporting arguments to the demolition of gender in men’s and women’s trends. In the world of these visions, both men’s and women’s styles parallel. In both the FW16 and SS17 Vaquera collections, looks are combination. Men are seen in loosely structured, free form clothing, and Bardot tops with earrings, where some of the shirts read “Fashion & Unisex,” just besides women who are sporting similar clothing. In one image of “menswear” the primary clothing was athleticized, where the model was seen wearing an elastic tracksuit, wearing an oven-mitt purse. Though, the way it functions is very different from the way that high-shelf brands operate, and in an more affective way. This bleeds over into Claire Barrows’ garments, which are some of the more exciting examples of a transition into genderless fashion. Barrows described these works as being “very confused,” and “a big mess,” despite wanting it that way. This art-based fashion crossover has the capability to make louder statements on a smaller scale than high-profile labels. In this sense, it reaches a smaller, more concentrated audience, providing for them a sense of solidarity of identity through fashion disobedience. This is the voice of the genderless speaking. Talking back is androgynous denim-god James Flemons ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

of Phlemuns. With a CV that includes collaborations with Solange Knowles, pop-ups with Tinashe, Brandy, and Wiz Khalifa, and countless mentions in contemporary fashion magazines like Dazed, i-D Vice, and Nylon, it’s easy to see what kind of “whatare-you-going-to-do-about-it” stance cyberspace youth have on the ways fashion is being presented to them, and in turn how they present themselves. Featuring a multiplicity of denim, scrunched Bardot tops and dresses, plaid on plaid (on plaid), with dashes of raw silk, it’s no wonder so many celebrities opt for this idea that womenswear should have no blockade on menswear and vice versa. Transitioning from high fashion, it is sometimes difficult to recognize the relationship between

runway and right away. Celebrities have so much power to convey these expressive and conversational tools embellished by the fashion industry, that room for the potential to enact social change is vast. Especially with the growing influence of Internet use and social media interaction, it’s simpler than ever to spread ideologies, trends, and in-short information. We’ve seen the likes of indigo child, Jaden Smith and hip-hop pioneer, Young Thug standing on the front lines of resistive fashion. Smith has been seen numerous times unapologetically sporting dresses and skirts in both his street style and spread coverage, and Thug’s been tackling issues of gender stereotypes in hip-hop single-handedly with his Alessandro Trincone’d “JEFFERY” album artwork and iconic Dazed Digital exclamation that gender is cancelled. Further doing away with gender distinctions is CoverGirl’s first male ambassador, seventeenyear old James Charles, who graciously grabbed gender divisions by the toupee and tossed it out the window. 70

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We see the same kind of defiance in street style as well, whether it is related to big name fashion bloggers attending global fashion weeks, or longtime neighbor Jenny from the block. Seeing all of this prestigious, almost untouchable high-art talk translate into accessible fashion, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a kind of grounding of trendsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a reiteration of amalgamates. The difference is that, on the street, the point is driven harder, and trend spread is contagious. Genderlessness in street style takes personal identity and blends it with an array of sub-socials. The nail-painted-hair-colored punk, the lavish, silk robe-adorned millionaire, the jersey-tee dress with socks and slides passing through the subway. The non-binary is poking through all over the map, making room for innovative style, broader, more limitless definitions of menswear, and unhinging the taboo of feminine masculinity. While gender in fashion is not entirely burned to a crisp, there are undoubtedly a few names in the kitchen cooking up something good with the ashes. â&#x20AC;˘ Charlotte Renner

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Photographer: Daniel Estrada Concept Creator: Lanier Hicks Makeup: Alyssa Camareno Stylists: Cody Cacciatore and Noelle Torrillo Models: Greg Short, Hudson Lana, and Cameron Perry

SERIOUS MOONLIGHT

Jacket: Balmain x H&M Top: I.N.C. Pants: Model’s own Shoes: Model’s own

Top: Alfani Pants: Concept Creatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Shoes: Calvin Klein

Jacket: Escada Pants: Calvin Klein Scarf: Concept Creatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Shoes: Gucci

Alessandro Michele

the unexpected genius of Gucci

lessandro Michele was born in Rome in 1972 and the fashion house, Gucci, was born in Florence a few decades before, in the 1920’s. Michele initially began his career with aspirations of becoming a costume designer. He attended the prestigious Accademia di Costume e di Moda in Rome before landing the role of Senior Accessories Director at Fendi. Slowly but surely, he worked his way up in the fashion industry when in 2002, Tom Ford became the Creative Director at Gucci and persuaded Alessandro to work at the Gucci design studio in London under him. From there, in 2006, Alessandro moved on to become the Leather Goods Design Director, and in 2011 when Frida Giannini was named the new Creative Director, Michele was named Associate to the Creative Director. Sales fell drastically while Giannini was director, and she abruptly left a week before the Menswear show in January 2015. This left Michele with less than a week to recreate and pull off the collection, he did, earning him the title of Creative Director two days later. As someone who was relatively unknown, he was not expected to be the new Creative Director of Gucci when other big fashion industry names were in question to land the job. However, he has been the best thing to happen to Gucci in decades, relatively speaking. Michele surpassed the others chiefly because he knew Gucci needed a revival, which he performed immediately. While Ford and Giannini were 78

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clothes were slinky and silky, the slits were high and the fits were tight; the Gucci woman was sleek, modern, and sexy. It was a singular type of person that was being designed for and this was not enough for the brand to thrive. Everyone knew who Gucci was and the brand was recognizable. However, the brand was no longer advancing in the fashion world, but rather, it was standing stagnant while other brands were quickly advancing. It had fallen flat. But, when Alessandro was given the title of Creative Director, he revolutionized the brand and completely revived it. He has truly given Gucci a new life, a new identity, and a new future. He has produced an identity that is nearly impossible to forget. Michele designs for a completely different women than his predecessors designed for. He has made Gucci sensual, in a sense that is unique to the brand. Most of his garments have high necks and his skirts go past the knee, however, he creates a level of intrigue that embodies sensuality in a non-cookie cutter way. He makes one look past the obvious physical attributes of sensuality and into the deeper, intellectual ideas and attributes of what it means to be sexy. Michele describes who he designs for by stating, “she’s an intellectual who has taste, a woman whom you’ll never know if she has a boyfriend or a girlfriend, a woman with great freedom of expression.” His designs are sensual and intriguing, but not in the lustful sense of the word, which is a departure from what Gucci has seen in

“I could easily compare my job to being in love”

the past. Michele makes it hard to look away from his designs, partially because one does not want to and wholefully because one cannot. Part of his revolution at Gucci and in the fashion world alike, is his gender fluid design that is apparent in almost all of his collections. Both male and female models are used in Menswear and Womenswear runway shows and campaigns, which creates a different level of intrigue and excitement for this generation. The practice of gender fluid design is a remarkable and noticeable step into the progressive future, one that other brands have incorporated into their collections as well. This is just another example of the miraculous changes that Michele has employed during his reign as Creative Director so far, holding true to Gucci’s overall core aestheic but broadening their audience as well. His early experience in costume design training shows up in his collections at Gucci today through the use of eccentric, lively, unexpected, and original creations. When describing his personal aesthetic, Michele notes, “I’m not interested in the future—it doesn’t exist yet—but I’m really interested in the past and the contemporary. My apartment is full of antique pieces, but I put everything together like a modern installation.” This is what he does with his designs; He takes his passion for antiques and history, twists and molds his ideas, and creates something incredibly intriguing. Anna Wintour, Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, is a fan of Michele, going as far as to complement him when saying, “he has helped us dream more freely.” He embodies his designs whimsical nature both in his own life and within the walls of his Gucci design studio, implying, “it’s not easy to live now, I think we need to dream. So I wanted to present an idea of something romantic, in dream time—like in a movie.” Michele’s greatest talent may be, arguably, his way of taking items or themes from the past and making them so eccentric that they feel new and modern once again. He frequents numerous different antique shops and has filled his homes with collections of different items he has found throughout his years of treasure hunting to find inspiration. Michele plays with the classics of the company in a way that is very daring, but successful.

His philosophy is that “if you work in fashion, you need fun.” However, Michele balances his fantasy couture with serious fashion so well that his work will always been taken seriously. He has turned items from Gucci’s past like the signature loafer, the monogram logo print, and the athletic stripe, into highly coveted, interesting items again. The updated loafer has fur everywhere, the Gucci logo print bags have different emblems all over them, and the stripe is being used in new places within his collections. His knowledge of Gucci’s past is so prevalent and important in making his collections successful with the fashion world that he does not banish the classics from the company, but rather, he remolds them and makes them his own. The way his collections are designed allows for freedom in styling within one’s own wardrobe. His pieces can be matched between collections or with other brands. This supplies the customer with more individual freedom than what is given at other major fashion houses. Michele takes a lot of inspiration from his parents, both of which were easy going, creative people. His mother was in the film industry, while his father was more of a laid-back, free spirit. He fondly speaks of his mother and how he connects and puts her into his work at Gucci. He states, “There is something eccentric about people like her that we miss today, so I built my fashion show around the idea of individuality. The way you dress is really the way you feel, the way you live, what you read, your choices. That’s what I want to put into Gucci.” He puts his full self into his work and one can see his passion in the intricacy of his designs. “I could easily compare my job to being in love” Michele says. This complete devotion to his creations is completely and utterly inspiring. His collections give the public a glimpse into his mind, which appears to be some mixture of beautiful, chaotic order like no other. Whether one likes or dislikes Michele’s design aesthetic, it is nearly impossible to argue how completely intriguing and interesting his work is. It is dream-like. It is eccentric. Michele opens up the possibility for individuals to express so much with one article of clothing and that, in itself, is beautiful.

Corrie Ostrander

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

wo(man)ly

Photographer: Daniel Estrada Concept Creators: Cody Cacciatore; Haley Slocum Stylists: Maiya Carmichael; Christie Clarkson; Julia Bellanger Models: Kelly Rogowski, Emanuella Marcelus Makeup: Alyssa Camareno; Maghan Maynard

FASHION

Jacket: Vintage | Pants: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own | Shoes: Christian Louboutin

Suit: Vintage | Bag: Les Petits Joueurs | Shoes: Prada

Collar: J. Crew | Shorts: Vintage | Shoes: Chanel | Jacket: Neiman Marcus | Bralette: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

FASHION

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Tunic: Vintage | Jump Suit: Trina Turk | Shoes: Prada

FASHION

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Victorien Moderne Photographer: Tre Crews Concept Creators: Bria Blossom and Danielle Brown Makeup: Alyssa Camareno and Meghan Maynard Stylists: Cody Cacciatore, Maiya Carmichael, and Vikiyah Duncan Models: Jordan Phelan and Lloyd Newby

Coordinating top and skirt: Concept Creatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Choker: I.N.C.

Crown: Custom Jacket: Custom

Shirt: Calvin Klein Pants: Director’s own Shoes: Prada Dress: Model’s own Shoes: Model’s own

Growing in the Modeling Industry Every day the modeling industry grows and changes. The models that walk the runways and pose on our favorite magazines are becoming more and more diverse, breaking the barriers of traditional models. Men represent makeup companies, women with cancer and Down syndrome grace magazine covers, and transgender models have taken the stage. Fashion is becoming more and more inclusive on a daily basis. As one explores the industry, it’s easy to come to the realization that maybe the industry isn’t as diverse as we would like it to be. However, of course there are smaller, more isolated attempts to support diversity. This may be in response to what the people want to see: better representation for different groups. An example of this may be Madeline Stewart, a young model with Down syndrome. An inspirational, aspiring model that’s making her way to the top is winning the hearts of many who have seen her magazine shoots and appearance on the runway. Is it possible that when casting models, designers and brands choose a minimal number of diverse models while keeping the typical model standards for the rest? If you throw in a model with Down syndrome, does that make up for the possibility of diversity within the rest of the show? This doesn’t quite satiate women’s desire to see more models that represent them. Women want to see diversity within the industry, as well as a representation of more groups. Attractive models are important to business and are used as a marketing ploy to drive sales. To attract the consumers, you must use symbols that they deem attractive or mean something to them. If a consumer sees an article of clothing on someone attractive, they may be inclined to try it

for the possibility of looking as attractive as them. Because of this, advertising constantly uses models that fit specific standards they think will most attract consumers. Using more average, every day looking models could counteract this marketing tactic. Despite this, consumers may also be discouraged if a model is unrealistically attractive, perhaps, refuse to even try the clothing on because they do not resemble the model in the slightest. Some retailers know people want to see more representation with their models and use this as a marketing tactic to attract more diverse customers. This makes them stand out from other retailers, attracting attention from the media because they are breaking barriers while most advertising campaigns do not. These tactics are generally applauded by the public but do not change the industry overall. Although one could see the

“It seems very cut and paste as to who is the proper model and who isn’t.” - Dani Brown

FASHION

growing representation and diversity within the industry, is it inclusive enough? Would women like to see more plus sized models break the runway? Should plus sized male models grab the spotlight? We asked some students at Florida State University for their input on the topic.

“Male models set the standard for fashion because they are the ideal picture of a man… but a model is also the expression of the idea of that a society holds.” -Nico Swanson So many women look to models as sources of inspiration for how they should, or would like to look. They judge themselves based on the beautiful women seen on fashion runways and in the media. But, it should be noted that fashion is not for a specific body type, ethnicity, or gender. Fashion is for everyone, and everyone contributes to fashion, whether they care about it or not. The more the industry excludes specific groups, the more consumers are excluded from fashion. Models representing brands and designers should be inclusive, opening the industry to a wider variety of consumers. Standards for models are often the same; a specific range of height, an always tall, lean body, and highly accentuated facial features. These specifications fit an unrealistic yet average ideal of beauty within, and set by, society. Models both affect and are affected by beauty standards in a society; it is a neverending cycle. Models are chosen based on what the consumer wants to see and what the consumer deems beautiful. Alternatively, the consumer views models as an example of the ideal body.

average do not look like the prefect Ken-like models walking down fashion runways or portrayed on billboards. If the average man is not represented on the runway and on magazine covers, how does this affect the industry? How does this affect men? Varying levels of confidence affects how men perceive male models. The more confident, the less they feel intimidated by unrealistically attractive models. What many people don’t care to talk about is the fact that men have insecurities, just as women do. How would constant pressure to look chiseled affect the average man? Seeing unrealistically attractive models creates standards and pressures for men to strive to reach these heights, which are very hard to attain by the average person who does not have a personal trainer and/or chef like most models do. If society sets these beauty standards for men and women, do the standards come from the modeling industry, or is the modeling industry affected by beauty standards set by society? If society wants to change these standards and make them more inclusive for all body types, a way to start would be through the modeling industry and through the media. If more day-to-day looking models were used, a new message would spread about different bodies. Not only would men be able to see that all body types can be beautiful, they could also become more interested in the

“If they were to constantly see these different types of male modelsdifferent body physiques, different statures- then they’d be more comfortable in who they are and be able to buy the same products the models can wear.” -Phillip Scarpa

As society changes their ideals, the industry must follow suit. Women today push for more inclusive models because they perceive a wider variety of body types as beautiful and they want to spread this self-confidence. There is no longer one specific appearance that is considered attractive. We hear about women pushing for more plus sized female models, but why do we never hear about plus sized male models? Should diversity within the modeling industry extend to male models too? Women often find it just as important to represent different body types within men’s fashion as well as women’s. Male models do not represent the average man just as female models very rarely, if ever, represent the average woman. The difference is plus sized woman are breaking into the industry but people are less concerned with plus sized male models. Often, male models are muscular, chiseled, and overall, are perceived as being “hot.” However, most men on

fashion industry if they are more included. Models often create personal expectations for men and women. Their bodies should resemble the models, we should be beautiful, our skin and eyes should glow like theirs, our hair needs to achieve the same perfectly windswept look. People spend their time and money to uphold standards they feel they are obligated to follow. If everyone decided there is no set way to appear in order to be considered beautiful, beauty standards would change. Pressure to conform would decrease. The media could reflect this change by striving to include a wider variety of body types and ethnicities. More groups of people would feel involved in both the fashion industry as well as in the media, and would react accordingly. In the long run, fashion brands, designers, companies and overall society could benefit from a change within the modeling industry. Jamira Perkins ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

CABIN FEVER Photographer: Daniel Estrada Concept Creators: Briana Lewis, Emily Lamboy, and Lloyd Newby Makeups: Alyssa Camareno and Meghan Maynard Stylists: Cody Cacciatore, Maiya Carmichael and Vikiyah Duncan Models: Ariel Engel, Becci Keating, Emily Lamboy, Erika Sorensen, and Honey the Cocker Spaniel

Top: Distressed by Jas | Boots: Directorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own | Bag: Michael Kors

ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

Coat: Walter Green | Dress: Walter Green | Booties: Calvin Klein

Jacket: Distressed by Jas | Jumpsuit: Walter Green | Shoes: Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own | Bag - Michael Kors

Top: I.N.C. | Jacket: Director’s Own | Shorts: Distressed by Jas | Boots: Concept Creator’s Own

CREDITS

IMAGE CREDITS

RETAILERS

“Morality in Makeup” (10) http://sephora.i.lithium.com/t5/image /serverpage/image-id/167906iBB544A 919F81EC91/image-size/original ?v=v2&px=-1

Macy’s at Governor’s Square Mall 1500 Apalachee Pkwy Tallahassee, FL 32301 (850) 325-2800 www.macys.com Sunglass Hut (Located within Macy’s) 1500 Apalachee Pkwy Tallahassee, FL 32301 (850) 325-2938 www.sunglasshut.com Wonsaponatime Vintage 636 McDonnell Dr Tallahassee, FL 32310 (850) 778-2188 www.wonsaponatimevintage.com

LOCATIONS (in order of appearance) Fun Station 2821 Sharer Rd Tallahassee, FL 32312 (850) 304-0676 www.itsfunner.com Chop Railroad 1029 Commercial Drive Tallahassee, Fl. 32310 (850)-329-6025 www.choptally.com Patchuk Farm 125 Patchuk Dr Monticello, FL 32344 (850) 997-0336 www.patchukfarm.com The Strip Entertainment Group 656 W Tennessee St Tallahassee, Florida (850) 599-9062 www.tallystrip.com/ TENN Lounge 652 W Tennessee St Tallahassee, FL 32304 (850) 599-9062 SouthWind Plantation 670 Bower Station Rd, Attapulgus, GA 39815 (800) 456-5208 www.huntsouthwind.com 102

DIVERSEWORLDFASHION.COM

https://typeset-beta.imgix.net/rehost/ 2016/9/14/3dd097b6-eb90-4fed-be 18-76a6fd584dfa.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/ originals/f0/15/e7/f015e79bc3ecab 988806e5d34cce94ba.jpg http://assets.teenvogue.com/photos/562cf 1c920d76b7506b71273/master/pass/kyliebeu-02.jpg https://nyoobserver.files.wordpress.com/ 2015/05/doedeere-workinquestion.jpg? quality=80 http://d1mqai8gfnbs7r.cloudfront.net/ media/ZFz38kHL5M7g2s5D61MRA xG4QQiVmvG0-34.jpg “Fall 2016 Beauty Trends Around the Globe” (12) http://www.frockcontrol.com/the-bottomline/ http://www.vanitatis.elconfidencial. com/multimedia/album/estilo/ belleza/2014-10-08/atrevete-con-el-coloreste-otono_228859/ http://www.glamour.nl/gallery/pin-itfriday-week-51

“Breaking Gender Norms, One CoverBoy at a Time” (20) https://static.independent.co.uk/s3fs-pub lic/styles/article_large/public/thumbnails/ image/2016/10/12/08/covergirl-1.jpg http://media.allure.com/photos/57fcf823d d69c3d313b3e7dd/master/pass/ COVERGIRL%20James%20Charles.jpg http://www.sparklesandshoes.com/ wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Men-inMakeup-James-Charles-jcharlesbeauty.png http://assets.rappler.com/0A33D269B 80D47AD94F14948DDB2AA8B/img/3EF A3547B55140CD93DB5451332 A139D/20161013-james_charles-001.jpg https://classpass.com/blog/wp-content/ uploads/2016/10/james-charles.jpg “Take Advantage: Inner Health, Outer Beauty” (22) http://www.anti-agingfirewalls.com/ 2013/12/01/nuts-over-nuts/ http://www.theswimmerscircle.com/theultimate-summer-workouts/ http://www.theherbshoplancaster.com/ products/goldenseal-root-powder http://www.theherbshoplancaster.com/site map_products_1.xml?from=128579123& to=368195245 http://www.theherbshoplancaster.com/ sitemap_products_1.xml?from=128579123 &to=3583226881

http://mybforbride.blogspot.com/

http://www.theherbshoplancaster.com/ products/pickling-spice

https://us.burberry.com/make-up/

http://www.pngall.com/scroll-png

http://theimpression.com/barbaracasasola-fashion-show-spring-2017-readyto-wear-backstage/

http://www.neontommy.com/ news/2013/10/affordable-halloweensnacks-your-party

http://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/news/ g3034/global-beauty-makeup-trends/

http://www.healthline.com/health/fastfood-effects-on-body

http://makeup.nowblogg.com/how-tomake-wet-look-makeup/ http://www.freepik.com/freevector/world-travel_770525. htm#term=travel&page=2&position=29

“How Sneakers are Re-Shaping Women’s Fashion” (32) http://fashionista.com/2016/06/kate-mossadidas-gazelle http://www.vogue.com/13360102/8-hightops-inspired-by-street-style-fall-shop ping-sneakers/

“Jordan’s, Yeezy’s, and Adidas, Oh My!” (48) http://originalshoeshop.com/ http://adshoevbuy.com http://violettenewyork.com/lookbooks/ jordan/ http://sneakernews.com/2010/11/04/ michael-jordan-through-the-years-airjordan-1/

75851c507cdba9ffbe5.jpg http://www.usmagazine.com/celebritystyle/news/jaden-smith-wears-dress-jokesabout-no-pants-photos-2015104 https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/ originals/b7/d7/48/b7d74888a5f5dfd9f 1d6e486f387a022.jpg

“Alessandro Michele: The Unexpected

http://nycgovparks.org/parks/marcusgarvey-park/photos/945

Genius of Gucci” (78) http://www.vogue.com/13275023/gucci -alessandro-michele-creative-directorprofile/

“Recycling Women’s Trends” (54) http://www.livetradingnews.com/newyork-fashion-new-tokyo-soho-11439. html#.WDiU7U8KaM

http://www.vogue.com/13296582/guccifall-2015-fur-lined-loafer/

http://gathery.recruit-lifestyle.co.jp/ article/1146214005779812201

“Growing Diversity in the Modeling Industry” (92) https://www.yahoo.com/beauty/covergirlintroduces-its-first-ever-coverboy-161210946.html

https://www.fastretailing.com/ employment/en/uniqlo/ http://www.finalfashion.ca/2016/03/ paris-fashion-week-fw2016-ipad-pro-liverunway-sketching-portfolio/ http://hel-looks.com/ http://www.nylon.com/articles/hari-nefamfar-inspiration-gala-2016 http://observer.com/2015/02/the-newgucci-is-perfect-for-genderless-librarianswho-love-margot-tenenbaum/ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/ http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ fall-2016-menswear/gucci/slideshow/ collection/print “The Death of Gender in Menswear” (66) http://assets.vogue.com/pho tos/57631f45e1b0d317035bf2f8/master/ pass/_UMB2604.jpg https://i.ytimg.com/vi/7bDxsA6rjYQ/ maxresdefault.jpg http://assets.vogue.com/ photos/5779443963cc890128050415/ master/pass/_VET0255.jpg

http://www.medpagetoday.com/Celebrity Diagnosis/40510 https://urbanboss.wordpress.com/ 2014/11/06/chantelle-winniecovers-nord-magazine/

THANK YOU’S Esther, Kate, Taylor, Neva, and Alfreda, thank you all for being so helpful throughout the entire semester! This issue would not have been the same without you! Patti and Chuck, thank you for allowing us to use your beautiful property and horses! Gavin, thank you for being such a wonderful young gentleman and model extra. Hank, Rosie, Toffee and Bella – thank you for standing still! Leslie, thank you for being so welcoming, accommodating and willing to help! Cabin Fever would not have been the same photo shoot had it not been shot at SouthWind. Carney, thank you for opening your doors during off hours and going above and beyond for us! Go Fund Me contributors, thank you for sponsoring our magazine and making this all possible: Dina Torrillo Mathias Bruefach Christopher Torrillo Bronna & Mike Cacciatore Norma Cabrera Cynthia Creedon Lorraine Perri Domenick Torrillo Areli Martinez Lauren Schwam Carol Renick Stephen Zonenschain Nery De Paz Sophia Hernandez

http://press.atlanticrecords.com/wpcontent/uploads/2016/08/Official-JefferyCover-Front-.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/ originals/1d/86/18/1d8618c4f15bc ISSUE 9 | FALL 2016

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