ItaliaVacanze Magazine 2013 English

ItaliaVacanze

ITALIA

Unmissable destinations from the Alps to the islands of the South

Index

Liguria.................................. 36

Abruzzo ..............................

All the magic of the mountains and the Middle Ages

A balcony over the Mediterranean

The spectacle of nature

Bolzano

Genoa

Chieti

A land of beauty: spa treatments and wellness

A magical land of water

On the trail of the wolf and the bear

Trentino ............................... 12

Emilia Romagna .......... 40

Campania .......................... 70

A natural paradise set amidst the mountains

A land of passions and pleasure

The wonderful treasures of a Terra Felix

Trento

Bologna

Naples

Fun and adventure for all the family

The riviera... that never sleeps!

Islands of beauty and wellbeing

Lake Garda ...................... 16

Tuscany ................................ 44

Apulia ................................... 74

A small sea among the mountains

Picture postcard views

One land, two seas, a thousand splendours

Riva

From sunflowers to woods

Lecce

For a holiday... made for all the family

Firenze

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica

South Tyrol ..........................

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Lombardy .......................... 20

Versilia: trend-setting beaches

Calabria .............................

A region with a thousand different faces

The Island of Elba ....... 54

Milan

A gem of an island

Reggio Calabria

Lake Como, the pleasure residences

One small island, many small towns

The sea beloved by the gods

Veneto ................................... 24

Sicily.....................................

A kaleidoscope of emotions

Marche ................................. 58

Walled cities and cities on water

Nature and culture: a region’s trademark

Agrigento

Venice

Urbino

Corners of paradise in the blue

In the name of relaxation and fun

Velvety beaches

Sardinia..............................

Latium.................................. 62

At the edges of the territory, in the centre of history

Set between ancient splendour and modern gems

An island of timeless traditions

Trieste

Rome

Cagliari

A region to discover... underground!

Castles, hills and flower festivals

Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea

Per osservazioni e segnalazioni scrivere a: redazione@publitour.it

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The island on which the sun shines

Friuli Venezia Giulia .... 32

Realizzata da Publitour S.p.A. – Sede legale: Viale Bruno Buozzi, 19 – I-00197 Roma www.publitour.it – info@publitour.it Direttore responsabile: Luca Mantovani Publitour S.p.A. – ufficio di Verona, via Casette di Sotto, 13 – 37060 Palazzolo di Sona (VR) Redazione: Chiara Taborelli, Emanuela Zanotti, Luca Fraccarolli, Sara Pasini Servizi tecnici: Antonio Gallo Grafica pubblicitaria: Max Guglielmetto e Giuseppe Debeni Traduzioni: Languages Services di Roberta Volpi – www.traduzionirapide.com

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The toe of the boot

Wonders under the sea

Italia Vacanze New n. 0 – www.italiavacanze.com

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Mediterranean princess

Progetto grafico, testi e editing: Studio27 Progetto Editoriale con la collaborazione di Giampaolo Bardella, Paolo Lavadini, Giulia Varetti, Tiziana Gilardi e Silvia Cortellazzi www.studio27snc.it – info@studio27snc.it Referenze fotografiche: Fotolia, De Agostini Picture Library, Luca Finessi, Foto Paritani, Gianluca Carapezza, Paolo Lavadini, Giulia Varetti

Stampa: Roto 2000 S.p.A. – Casarile (Milano) Finito di stampare nel mese di gennaio 2013

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Now Italia Vacanze has adopted a completely new format to respond to the discerning requirements of contemporary tourism and to give enhanced visibility to our country’s tourist attractions.

No longer just a catalogue focused primarily on the promotion of camping sites and distributed at European trade fair events. From today, this publication takes the form of a magazine and presents Italy as the holiday destination par excellence, in all seasons. Because holidaying in Italy is not just about sea or snow, but also comprises cities of art, archaeology, ancient villages, landscapes, fine food and wine, spas, music, fashion and events to enjoy all the year round.

The articles in the magazine put the accent on each Italian region’s historical and artistic features, landscape and food and wine specialities, by addressing three topics: the first describes the distinctive characteristics of the region, followed by a more detailed description of a particular city or area, to conclude with a box dedicated to the typical products of the region featured in the article.

To respond to the tourist’s need for practical information, the magazine will be accompanied by a HOSPITALITY supplement providing a description of accommodation facilities and a visit to the area presented. Space is dedicated to the various facilities (hotels, holidays villages and campsites, holiday farms, B&B) in order to provide a detailed description and a more specifically targeted and exhaustive account of Italy’s tourist offering.

The magazine will also be available on italiavacanze.com, with more extensive editorial contents and detailed information about tourist facilities and structures.

You are now browsing through number “0”, reserved for international tourism trade fairs, which has been published in English and German for the time being. In Spring, after receiving and evaluating your remarks and comments regarding this initiative, for which we thank you in advance, we shall publish the Italian edition for distribution through news-stands, with two numbers focused respectively on the summer and winter seasons.

Have a nice journey!

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Alto Adige Wedged between the Central Alps, in the

valleys formed by the rivers Adige and Isarco, where mountains are the unquestioned

protagonists. This is South Tyrol, with its

towns of Bolzano and Meran, which ever since ancient times has been at the centre of the most important thoroughfares and, for this same reason, was dotted with towers, citadels and castles during the Middle Ages. The mountain chain of the Dolomites, which stands to the South East, represents the most famous icon of this territory, the natural habitat of marmots, alpine ibexes and golden eagles. A mention is also due to the fine food specialities offered by this territory: the queen of them all is certainly the South Tyrolean apple IGP, cultivated over an area of 18,000 hectares, but don’t forget to taste the local malga cheese (the “Grigio” variety in particular) and speck, typical ingredients of alpine cuisine which team marvellously with the famous Tyrolean wines, products of an age-old tradition.

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All the magic

of the mountains and

the Middle Ages

SOUTH TYROL

Opposite page: the Lake of Landro, in the Pusteria valley. Top of page from left: the Odle Massif; the Trapp armoury of Castel Coira; the Tappeiner promenade in Meran.

On top of the world, among towers and castles Midst the green woods and sharp rocky peaks, we find towers, castles and battlements to testify to the strategic importance played by South Tyrol in ancient times: these valley routes in the proximity of mountain passes, whose roads served to transport merchandise and culture, had to be defended and protected. The castles, above all, with their stories and legends, allow for a global interpretation of this land.

Castles that tell of battles and knights, such as Castel Coira, in the Venosta Valley, commissioned in the mid 13th century by some Swiss bishops who set up an armoury within its walls, which is still quite impressive today: the prime exhibit of this collection of ancient weapons – the largest private collection in the world – is the huge 15th century suit of armour that once belonged to Ulrich IX of Matsch.

Castles perched high up on rocky crags, like Castel d’Appiano, built at the start of the XII century at a height of 628 m to guard over the Adige Valley, or those which enchant visitors with their decorative Romanic and Gothic frescoes, as in the case of Castel Roncolo at the gates of Bolzano, a city castle that is also classified as an “illustrated manor” thanks to its frescoes, which are some of the most important in the Tyrol.

Castles which wholeheartedly adopt the production of local craftsmen: Castel Tures, located in the valley of the same name, whose 64 rooms are almost entirely wood-panelled and which preserves its medieval wood furniture in excellent condition, and Castel Tasso, rising on a rock in the marsh of Vipiteno (now inexistent), which treasures the late-gothic carved wooden furnishings in its magnificent halls (don’t miss the Green Room) and an extraordinary perforated wooden gate in the Chapel of Saint Zeno.

So these monuments are all quite different from each other, but share the same magnificence, charm, stories, tales, legends and historical characters, to narrate the splendour of this area in Mediaeval times and its importance for Europe as a nerve centre: Castel Forte, in Ponte Gardena, was the birthplace of one of the last poets of courtly love, Oswald von Wolkenstein, who told the stories of feudal life and chivalrous deeds from the Knights Room; or what about Castel Trauttmansdorff

which hosted the Empress Sissy in the nineteenth century during her numerous winter stays, so frequently indeed that the road leading from the castle to the old town centre of Meran is known as “the Sissy Promenade”. The Castle of Castelbello, on the other hand, is a testimony of ancient Roman times with its permanent exhibition “Via Claudia Augusta, a Roman road through the Venosta Valley”, while we are catapulted into the Baroque period with Castel Wolfsthurn, in Racines, the reconstruction of a medieval building standing out from the woods with its charmingly elegant profile, which houses exhibitions of folk art, fun activities for children and the Provincial Hunting and Fishing Museum.

There are over 200 castles in the area around Bolzano: citadels, towers, palaces and stately homes that may all be easily reached by car, but also along the numerous footpaths and the so-called “wine roads”, for trekking and mountain bike enthusiasts or for the lovers of fine food and drink. No matter what their interests are, everyone can enjoy the same scenery, the marvellous mountains surrounding the town, a quartz porphyry volcanic rock formation of an amazing tone of red, and the green expanses of orchards and vineyards.

South Tyrol is also associated with the Ladin language: in Val Badia, the Ciastel del Tor, which hosts the Ladin Museum, also preserves the documentary evidence of the history of this language. However, as South Tyrolean tradition would have it, the “heart of the country” is Castel Tirolo, which has majestically dominated the Meran basin since 1120 as decreed by the Counts of Venosta, later to be called the Counts of Tyrol. A castle which now hosts the Historical and Cultural Museum of the Province of Bolzano and whose name represents the entire identity and cultural autonomy of this area.

Below: Castel Tirolo.

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Bolzano The enchanted town nestling among the mountains Bolzano stands at an altitude of 262 m, and was already mentioned by Paolo Diacono in his Historia Langobardorum under the name of Bauzanum and archeologically documented in the Early Middle Ages, when the city walls were demolished to allow the townspeople, with their strong inclination for commerce, to welcome traders coming from the north and south.

The city parlour is Walther square, onto which the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta faces, and where the statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, the greatest German medieval poet, occupies a dominant position. The town’s symbol is certainly the cathedral bell tower which, from its height of 65 m, represents one of the masterpieces of the international gothic style; the pitched roof with its elegant composition of green, white and yellow tiles is particularly striking and confers a lively aspect to the entire square. Furthermore, positioned on the western façade of the Church stands the so-called “Madonna of speech”, whose miraculous powers are invoked by mothers of children with speech difficulties.

Some marvellous frescoes of the Giotto school may be admired in the nearby Dominican Church, beyond which lies the most ancient part of the city, with its little square called piazzetta delle Erbe, the porticoed street Laubengasse delimited by Gothic buildings and a criss-cross of narrow streets:

Along the wine road Vineyards surrounding the castles, expanses of grapes growing on the flatlands nestling between the mountains: South Tyrolean wine speaks the language of tradition and landscape, as well as innovation. The 16 municipal areas, making up the so-called Wine Road, bring the Wine Festival to life along its 70 km trail every year from May to June.

In the area around Bolzano, the grapes of the robust and velvety Santa Maddalena and the typical

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Lagrein vines come to maturity. In the Oltradige and Val d’Adige vistors must taste the excellent white wines of these areas and rediscover the famous Schiava del Lago di Caldaro, while further south, in Termeno, where it is produced, another not-to-be-missed experience is that of Gewürztraminer, a delicately aromatic wine.

In Caldaro, the Provincial Wine Museum tells the story of the local wine producing tradition.

Province: Bolzano Altitude: 262 m asl Inhabitants: 104 841 Tourist information: Tourist Board, Piazza Walther 8 tel. +39 0471 307000 – www.bolzano-bozen.it

a series of contemporary shops housed in old workshops is a particularly charming sight. It is actually on the street of the Porticos that the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum is situated, showcasing an extremely precious collection of prehistoric and proto-historic engraved stelae statues, but whose unquestioned protagonist is ötzi, the mummy of a hunter who lived over 5000 years ago and discovered on the Similaun glacier, on the border between Italy and Austria at an altitude of over 3213 m. The body of ötzi (whose name means “iceman”) is presented to the public in an innovative manner: it is positioned in a special atmosphere that guarantees its preservation, but visible through small apertures. Visitors will be fascinated by the studies carried out on the tattoos found on the man’s body, as well as the numerous reconstructions of his clothing and equipment supported by detailed explanations of how they were constructed and used. If the man of the Similaun Glacier offers a unique insight into what life used to be like in this area in the Copper Age, it is the famous South Tyrolean alpinist Reinold Messner who, with his MMM “Mountain Messner Museum” describes the emotional relationship between contemporary man and the mountains: a museum project spread over five different facilities, all located in South Tyrol (the main branch has its premises in Castel Firmiano, close to Bolzano) which illustrates the themes associated with mountain sacredness, the world of ice, alpinism on the Dolomites and mountain communities.

The Renon cableway departs from the centre of Bolzano and, in just over a quarter of an hour, reaches the Colle di Villa (Bolzano’s “mountain”), San Genesio and Soprabolzano, where it is possible to visit some interesting geological formations known as “the pyramids of land”. The first 950 m of altitude had already been conquered early in the twentieth century with the “Renon train”, a thoroughly futuristic project at the time which had no equal anywhere in the world.

Back in town, it is possible to admire a rare example of a lowland castle set among the mountains: even today, Castel Mareccio is still surrounded by hectares of vineyards; it was

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first erected in the Middle Ages, but was later given a new look to satisfy the architectural criteria of the 16th century, and is now a location used for events and exhibitions.

Bolzano is also a modern town, and this is quite apparent on passing the Talvera bridge and visiting the districts that were built when it was no longer part of Austria and annexed by Italy. This is the best spot in town to admire the enchanting Dolomite peaks which offer a breathtaking view at any time of the day.

Opposite page: a street in the old town centre of Bolzano.

This page, from the top: a detail of the cathedral roof in Bolzano; Castel Mareccio in Bolzano.

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A land of beauty: spa treatments and wellness It was first frequented by historical personages and cultural celebrities: for its beauty, its nature and the fact that it has always represented an oasis of wellness. In fact, thanks to its oligo mineral waters rich in radon (a highly soluble gas suitable for vasodilatation, anti-inflammatory and decongestion therapies) Meran has plenty to offer to those wishing to enjoy a period of relaxation, wellness or therapy immersed in the splendour of the South Tyrolean landscape.

The first promoter of this idea was the physician, Josef Waibl, who wrote a little book in 1836 praising the beneficial properties of Meran’s air and waters. So, in the first half of the 19th century, the city became a “health” resort: the first hydrotherapeutic centre was built in 1840 and the first centre for medical treatments in 1850. It was Dr. Franz Tappeiner who decided to have a number of subtropical plant species planted in the area, and these continue to confer a rather unique and particular charm to the entire surroundings.

The Empress Sissy made the town very fashionable, so much so that between the end of the 19th and the start of the 20th century it was considered to be the “health” resort par excellence, with over one million overnight stays registered each year. The radon springs were discovered in the thirties: Meran went from being a health resort to a spa, with the opening of new facilities in the seventies and in 2000, supported by a great architectural project which gave Meran a totally new image.

Visitors are immersed in a transparent environment, in which they can admire splendid mountain scenery on all sides, surrounded by an interior design in wood and stone

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On these pages: relaxation and wellness in the spas of South Tyrol.

signed by Thun, and a surface area of over 2000 sq m of spa water. Spoilt for choice, therefore, when it comes to pampering and caring for body and spirit. With specific treatments for arthro-rheumatic, dermatological, vascular, ear, nose and throat, gynaecological and urinary therapies.

And with something to please the whole family, in the way of theme trails and playing grounds. Without forgetting the opportunities for walking (the famous Tappeiner walk is over 3 km long), and discovering the characteristic porticoed streets of South Tyrolean hamlets and cities, dominated by churches (the Medieval cathedral) and castles (dating back to the 15th century).

For those who have set their sights higher, it is possible to start from the 325 m of Meran and proceed towards San Martino in Badia, over 1100 m, characterized by cold mineral waters with a bitter salty taste, and also recommended for various types of treatments, starting from those of the respiratory system. All of which is offered in the simplicity of country-style facilities, for true connoisseurs, where it is possible to get away from it all and abandon oneself to the simple pleasure of well-being.

Also located at an altitude of over 1000 m, at less than two hours from Meran, are the Salomon baths in Rasun Anterselva which exploit the cold water springing from the granitic rocks known for their diuretic and anti-inflammatory properties. An oasis of relaxation in a corner of South Tyrol that is still uncontaminated, surrounded by peaks that rise over 3000 m.

But the spa baths located in the Dolomites are also an excellent opportunity to regenerate body and soul: what better way to rest than in the sulphurous waters of Sesto, after a long walk or a climbing excursion in the mountains.

You just have to choose between a bath in hay or milk. Or, if you prefer, get doused in the most famous and genuine local product, apples.

You can go for a treatment in essential oil of mugo pine, vinasse or chestnut. In South Tyrol, wellness has the scent of nature, mountains, tradition and local produce. In fact, there are treatments with Vipiteno yogurt, or with the novelties of quartz in Val di Vizze, where treatments derive from an ancient tradition.

Without forgetting the numerous Kneipp trails, which con-

sist in walking barefoot over different surfaces in hot and cold water: this natural treatment reduces stress, as well as stimulating the mind and body.

In Tesido, for instance, it is possible to try the Kneipp Rudlbach trail: surrounded by the woods, plunge your feet into 9°C cold stream water, and follow the various stages of the trail as you relax and meditate.

In Upper Pusteria, in Villabassa, there is one of the finest Kneipp trails in the Alps, set in a children’s playground, for family-style relaxation, just like Varna, close to Bressanone, where children may also use the trail designed for playing and exercising.

Moving on to the Val Venosta, the Bear Bath was constructed in 2008 in Solda; it is entirely made from natural materials and looks onto the peaks of Ortles, Zebrù and Gran Zebrù.

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Trentino

Trentino offers a rugged mountain

landscape, the stunning sight of the

Dolomites which have been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, parks and nature reserves, as well as experiences in close contact with nature suitable for all types of visitor. Trentino is dominated by mountains and the region offers all this with the delicate interlude of views of vineyards and orchards as well as the surprising addition of small blue lakes set between the peaks. The area is structured around numerous Alpine valleys (in particular, near the valley of the river Adige). Trento is its most representative city and the region offers visitors a range of small and large towns with rich traditions and enormous tourist appeal.

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A natural

paradise set amidst the mountains

TRENTINO

Opposite page: the Gruppo del Cristallo (Crystal Massif). Top of page from left to right: the Lake of Tovel; vineyards around Arco.

Heart-warming legends of the Trentino area There is an extremely original way of exploring the Trentino area. You could call it “trekking on the trail of legends”: walking, observation and climbing accompanied by stories, traditions and the profound soul of an environment surrounded by rocks and open to the sky. A large hiking trail based on this theme links the Valley of San Martino in Castrozza, the Fassa Valley and the Fiemme Valley. The trail is equipped with clearly marked signs for about 200 km of paths with 9 stops for more detailed exploration.

According to the most popular legend, the Dolomites are also known as the Pale Mountains. During the period of the ancient Kingdom of the Dolomites, when the rock of the mountains had the same colour as the Alps and everything was covered with flowering meadows, lush woods and enchanted lakes, the air was filled with happiness and harmony. In every place, apart from the royal castle, where the king’s son was condemned to live far from his bride, the Moon Princess: he was destined to be blinded by the sight of the bright light of the Moon while she was forced to remain far away from the dark gloomy mountains and from the shaded woods. As he wandered through the woods in desperation, the prince came across the Prince of the Salvans, a gnome in search of a land for his people: in exchange for permission to inhabit these woods with his people, the small king made the mountains of the kingdom shiny. The gnomes worked the whole night long and covered all the rocks with moonlight. The princess was thus able to return to her groom and the Dolomites became the Pale Mountains.

The snow, the mountain, the sun, and the woods are often the main characters of these charming stories which are profoundly linked to the environment and the climate. This is the case of the Snow Princess of the Fassa Valley, who could not be exposed to sunlight because otherwise she would have melted but, at the same time, could not do without the warmth of the mountain: the king therefore decided to abolish the sun from his kingdom and all the inhabitants inverted their lifestyles by sleeping during the day and working during the night. The situation soon became unsustainable and when

the princess learned that she was the cause of the suffering of the kingdom’s inhabitants, she decided to sacrifice herself for her people by going out into the sunshine. In Canazei, the Ombretta Pass (The Pass of the small shadow) still exists today in her memory.

A romantic legend explains why the waters of Lake Tovel in Tuenno turn red once a year: according to the story, Queen Trasenga had decided not to marry to avoid dividing her kingdom. Lavinto, the King of Tuenno, having seen his advances rejected, avenged himself by killing the queen and her army on the shores of the lake whose waters were tinged with the colour of the blood.

Each part of Trentino has its own myths and legends; just enter the towns and villages, listen to the tales of the local inhabitants and find out the origin of the curious names of the mountain peaks: it provides the chance to discover elves, saints, people and magic objects, but in particular an opportunity to encounter nature coming to life.

The Turks and apples Strudel, the typical dessert of the Trentino area, has ancient Turkish origins. The recipe underwent variations and was transformed by the Hungarians into the apple strudel we are familiar with today which soon spread to Austria. It is not hard to imagine how the recipe quickly travelled from Austria to Trentino, where it is now considered the region’s most traditional dish, partly due to the excellent apples grown in the area.

Apples are the crucial ingredient of the filling of this pastry roll which also contains raisins, pine nuts and cinnamon.

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Trento, a city with a thousand different faces

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Province: Trento Altitude: 194 m asl Inhabitants: 117 070 Tourist information: Azienda per il turismo Trento, Monte Bondone, Valle dei Laghi Piazza della Portella, 3 www.apt.trento.it

A lowland city surrounded by mountains, Trento benefits from the presence of the lush green mountains just as a house benefits from its garden. The city’s character, the openness typical of urban centres in the plains, contrasts only slightly with the reserved nature of the typical mountain town: this makes Trento a lively place to visit in any season of the year. Everything revolves around piazza del Duomo, the heart of the city, which was once the centre of religious and civic power, and is still today the main meeting place of the city. The square is dominated by two magnificent buildings: the extraordinary Romanesque Cathedral, dedicated to St. Vigilius, which can be explored by visiting the underground archaeological excavations beneath the paleochristian basilica dedicated to the saint, and the Palazzo Pretorio (town hall) with the medieval Municipal Tower which looks down on the city from the ma-

jestic height of 41 metres. The main monument in the square is the eighteenth century fountain of Neptune, the symbol of the plentiful supply of water available to the city. Another symbol of the city is the so-called Wheel of Fortune, the large rose window in the northern transept of the cathedral where the historic Council of Trent, the bastion of the Counter-Reformation, was held between 1545 and 1563.

It is worth visiting the amazing Castle of Buonconsiglio, the largest and most important monumental complex of Trentino-South Tyrol which, with its mighty walls and towers built over five centuries, houses exceptional collections of art works.

The frescoes in the Torre Aquila, with the portrayal of the Twelve Months, represent one of the most fascinating painting cycles of the late Middle Ages. An alternative itinerary for discovering the city is to follow the frescoed façades of the sixteenth century buildings along the historic road between the Castle of Buonconsiglio and piazza del Duomo. Along this street the Renaissance blends in harmoniously with other architectural styles which, together with the traces of Roman Trento, document the history of the city.

Trento, with Palazzo delle Albere, is also one of the premises of MART, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Trento e Rovereto. The museum is an international showcase of art from Futurism to the present day, with particular attention devoted to new artists and educational initiatives linked to art. A completely different experience is offered by the Museo Tridentino di Scienze Naturali, the city’s natural history museum with sections devoted to biodiversity and geology, which explore the origins of the Dolomite area, explaining the reason for the famous proverb “the place where the Dolomites now stand was once sea”.

Fun and adventure for all the family Opposite page, from the top: Trento, the fountain of Neptune and the Castle of Buonconsiglio. On this page, from the top: kayaking on the river Noce; trekking on the Dolomites.

Any mention of tarzaning, agility forest adventure park, Tibetan bridges, log-rolling, spider nets and action adventure in the heart of the Dolomites just serves to highlight the area’s natural vocation for active holidays and family tourism. There are more than 20 adventure parks in Trentino which provide people of all ages with excitement, fun and the first chance to experience mountain sports. Everything is organised according to stringent safety requirements with the expert assistance of the staff and mountain guides. You will need to pluck up your courage to cross a river hanging in the air or on suspended rope bridges, or to take a daring leap into space!

There are technological versions or more natural versions: tarzaning, for example, refers to walking between trees using ropes (which can also be called “lianas” to stay in a suitably “wild” context), completely in harmony with the forest environment, following a series of breathtaking acrobatic aerial paths. Visitors can also begin “with their heads in the clouds” and slide down to the ground to get a real rush of adrenalin carefully gauged to the age of the participants who can choose among Kid Adventure trails, suitable for small children, Junior trails and paths suitable for adults and “Braves Only”, only advisable for the most daring. The great range of activities also includes the monorail, with the sledge, offering incredibly steep descents and 360 degree turns providing spectacular views of the Trentino fir forests. There are also facilities for anyone interested in learning to climb; these include climbing gyms and vie ferrate (iron paths) to have an initial contact and the right training for these types of sport.

So it’s just a question of gloves, a helmet, harnesses, pulleys and snap-hooks and then … go and have fun!

It isn’t necessary to walk high above the ground to discover the area! There are plenty of routes organised by various associations of mountain guides that will satisfy young people’s desire to be active, play and have fun together while learning to discover nature and the mountain environment with its rich wildlife. From this point of view, the mountain becomes even more stimulating, fun and educational! Especially on foot, during walks and trekking, but also when cycling (various centres offer downhill and mountain bike activities). There is even the opportunity to “ride” the rapids of the Avisio and Roldone rivers and the river Noce with rafting, hydrospeed activities, canyoning and kayaking!

In this case, the essentials include a helmet, swimming costume, wetsuit, life belt and a rubber dinghy... and off you go!

Where to? To Pera, Campitello and Pozza di Fassa, to Arco and to Ponte Rosso–Carisolo, but also to Masi di Cavalese, San Martino di Castrozza and Malè. In Centa San Nicolò there is one of the most well-equipped parks of its kind in Trentino (Acropark), while in Val di Breguzzo there is the largest adventure park in the area (Breg Adventure Park). Visitors can choose Tuenno in the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature Reserve, or Commezzadura in Val di Sole, Tres in Val di Non, Molveno on the plateau of Pradel. There are also the towns of Madonna di Campiglio, Polsa di Brentonico, Vason and Ziano di Fiemme. Lastly, our tip for a truly breathtaking adventure: the sledge run on the Alpine Coaster monorail (in Predazzo Gardonè), rollercoasters at their most mountainous!

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Lago di Garda With an area of 370 km2, it is the largest Italian lake. It is called BenĂ co, but mostly known by everyone as Lake Garda.

A connecting point between the three regions, Lombardia (the Brescia side), Veneto (the Verona side) and Trentino-South Tyrol (the tip to the north), it is developed in parallel to the river Adige, which is divided by the massif of Monte Baldo, and a favourite destination for European tourists. To attract them, the Mediterranean climate, the wide range of entertainment and sports, the wellness oasis, the cuisine and the many artistic and archaeological sites. In short, that air of holidays that you breathe in all year round.

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A small sea among

the mountains

LAKE GARDA

Delights and beauty by the lake The towns on the shores of this small sea, with mild temperatures and bright sunshine, wedged between the mountains in the north and the hills to the south, can be joined by an imaginary line that follows the paths of wine and oil.

The now historic productions from the Riviera of Olives, in fact, have always characterised the landscape of the area, tenaciously keeping up with the ever growing demand for tourist services. You will encounter the grapes of the classic Bardolino wine, olives protected by the consortium that guarantees the quality of extra virgin oil from Garda, but also the white and yellow-fleshed peaches, plums from Dro and the kiwis from the plain of Affi.

Going down the west bank of the lake, the mountain with its overhanging rocks is undisputed master until after Gargnano.

Here the landscape, rich with its olive groves spread on different levels, transforms in the Regional Park of Alto Garda Bresciano, with the characteristic structures of the citrus groves that have made the lake famous in the past.

Today, the production has mostly demonstration purposes; it is up to the enthusiast to search among the numerous small structures that allow you to enjoy some genuine lemons or citrons. Being in the mountains, and overlooking the “sea”, you can not miss out on Garda cheese with all its varieties, hard or soft, mature or fresh. And the truffles, with the best varieties growing wild. In Salò, a pretty and colourful town that recalls the fascist epic, the food industry has known how to take advantage of this production: it was here that the citron was invented.

Changing bank, the lake is transformed into a sort of Nordic fjord: leaving behind the towns of Garda and Torri del Benàco and continuing on the eastern shore, you start to climb up Monte Baldo, where the olive trees give way to alpine vegetation.

The so-called “Botanical Garden of Europe”, reached by cable car from Malcesine and which offers breathtaking views of the lake, combines the typical products of the forest and undergrowth (such as chestnuts and mushrooms) with high level production: goat cheese, honey, herbs and medicinal plants used to produce the typical teas.

Returning to the lake, as you would expect, it is the fish that

Manca dida manca dida

dominates the culinary tradition, with the return of the old traditional flavours.

The lake becomes a sea, Sirmione dominates with its charm, full of history and poetry, with the suggestion of the archaeological remains of the Grotte di Catullo, with the pride of the castle, with the spas that have made its fortune since the end of the nineteenth century. Beyond Desenzano del Garda, the hills towards Lonato del Garda, Castiglione delle Stiviere and Solferino resonate echoes of the battles of the Risorgimento. From the vineyards in this area, three great Garda white wines are also produced: San Martino, Lugana and Bianco di Custoza.

Whichever area of Lake Garda you choose, the option open to the tourist is complete because it will appeal to lovers of nature as well as lovers of the sea and the hills.

Common denominator: the good food, the taste of tradition and the truly unique oasis of products that we would never imagine to find in this part of Italy, but which represent the excellence of the three regions bordering this stretch of water which is there to be discovered.

Opposite page: view of Lake Garda with Monte Baldo in the background.

Above from left to right: vineyards near Pastrengo; the Telegrafo Refuge on Monte Baldo; the Scaligera castle in Sirmione.

Below: a pier overlooking the lake.

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Riva The pearl of Garda Trentino The pearl of Garda Trentino: Riva del Garda, with its Mediterranean climate, great beaches and beautiful landscape, is the resort par excellence. Here sport is the main reason for the holiday: sailing and windsurfing above all, thanks to the warm winds that blow constantly, but also walking, cycling and mountain biking. Lemons, olives and palm trees colour the landscape at the foot of the Brenta Dolomites.

Riva del Garda is also synonymous with art and culture, and a symbol of the history of the town is the Fortress, first mentioned in 1124 and which has grown over the centuries: in the sixteenth century it was a bishop’s residence and in the nineteenth century became the Austro-Hungarian barracks, almost completely losing its medieval and Renaissance features.

From the tower, returned to its original state by recent restorations, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake. The building now houses the Civic Museum, with stele statues from the Copper Age found in the nearby Arco, the remains of the lake-dwelling Ledro culture and the archaeological finds of all the upper Garda. Meanwhile, in the Art Gallery you can admire important works such as paintings by Hayez and sculptures by Vincenzo Vela.

In the historic centre the Apponale Tower also deserves attention, the old site of the market and the control centre of the lake. From a height of 34 m it dominates the Piazza III Novembre and dates back to the thirteenth century, when it

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Province: Trentino Altitude: 65 m asl Inhabitants: 16,170 Tourist information: Ingarda Trentino - Azienda per il Turismo Largo Medaglie D’Oro Al Valor Militare, 5 Tel. +39 0464 554 444 www.gardatrentino.it

was built to guard the port and the square, a former hub of commerce and trade. Since 2002, after the restoration, it has been possible to climb the 165 steps leading to its summit, to enjoy the geometry of the square and the pier that become lost in the blue of the lake. Traces of antiquity can also be seen in the Palazzo Pretorio, in which Roman, medieval and modern stones are located making it possible to trace the history of the village and the lake.

In the shadow of baroque churches and Mediterranean vegetation, intellectuals such as Friedrich Nietzsche, Franz Kafka and the brothers Thomas and Heinrich Mann took inspiration for their works that have marked the history of philosophy and European literature: on the other hand, Lake Garda was a must for the young people of Central Europe who undertook the Grand Tour!

This page: two views of Riva del Garda.

A dish ... on loan The culinary tradition of Lake Garda is inspired by the cuisine of the three regions that mark the boundaries: Lombardia, Trentino-South Tyrol and Veneto. The typical summer dish is from Veneto itself: the bigoi co le aole, i.e. spaghetti colddrawn through a press with the pickled bleak fish. A simple dish, flavoured with a strong taste of the minnows from the lake preserved in salt, which are fried in oil to create a tasty and very traditional fish sauce. Naturally the bigoli pasta is boiled in water with a pinch of salt! Other local varities include bigoli al ragù di pesce (fish sauce), bigoli con le sardèle (sardines), bigoli alla gardesana. The substance does not change, they are always a delight!

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© Gardaland

For a holiday... made for all the

family

This page, clockwise from left: riding mountain bikes on Monte Brione, near Riva del Garda, and two views of the Gardaland amusement park.

© Gardaland

Descents at high speed, breathtaking drops, scenes from movies, amazing gardens: Lake Garda and its surroundings offer the opportunity to experience unique emotions with a wide range of theme parks.

The most famous is Gardaland located in Castelnuovo del Garda, with its 600,000 square metres of extension, full of attractions for all ages, shows and themed villages divided into the Adrenaline, Fantasy and Adventure sections. The first category includes the famous Blue Tornado and Space Vertigo, thrilling experiences of speed and changes in height: they are two of the busiest rides. In the Fantasy category, the fairy tales are unforgettable: Peter Pan, Kaffeetassen and l’Albero di Prezzemolo are just three of the many attractions of this type.

Those who love adventure, however, can not miss the classic Ramses: il Risveglio, the “refreshing” Jungle Rapids or I Corsari.

Within the entertainment complex Canevaworld, in Lazise sul Garda, there is instead Movieland, a completely “cinema” themed park! Also here the attractions follow three different lines: Family, for kids, Adventure, for the whole family, and Action, for those who want to experience great emotions remembering more frightening films.

If the kids have fun travelling on little cars around the circuit of the legendary Route 66, the older ones can enter Magma 2 in trucks, to become protagonists of Police Academy, dive into the London of 1907 with The Illusionist, or get closer to the missions of Zorro and Rambo.

Stuntmen and special effects are guaranteed! Finally, the most fearless are reserved the emotions of Tomb Rider,

Terminator 5 in 5D, U-571 Submarine, the house of horrors and the scream-filled descent from the Hollywood Action Tower.

If you prefer water parks, here you’ll be spoiled for choice. The largest is Caneva Aquapark, structured in the same way as Movieland (Family, Adventure, Action sections).

Nestled in the green hills of Verona, in a natural area of 64,000 square metres, the sports centre and water park Picoverde di Custoza offers tranquillity for adults and an area with water slides for children.

Founded in 1978, the Parco Acquatico Cavour in Valeggio sul Mincio offers Water Lagoon, the beach Mare, the wellness route, the event ship Camillo Show, the Paradise Island completely carved into the rock with slides and pools on different levels, the area Magic Sand devoted to sand castles and Iceberg, where you can slide in the Ice Age. There are, finally, some opportunities for those who want to venture between vines, Canadian bridges and air routes: tourists can enjoy the new Parco Avventura in San Zeno di Montagna, the Parco Natura Viva in Bussolengo (zoo and safari) and the wonderful Parco Giardino Sigurtà in Valeggio sul Mincio, one of the most extraordinary in the world for the blooms of the tulips, roses and water lilies, including hedge mazes and endless grassy plains to cross on foot or by bicycle.

Something for the whole family!

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Lombardia

As well as being the economic heartland of Italy, Lombardy has been a destination for high quality tourism since the seventeenth century. The region extends from the Alps to the wine-producing hills, from the large lakes to its rivers and canals, to the agricultural plain and the urban area of Milan: this is Lombardy, with its varied landscape and many different historical, artistic and productive traditions. The region has much to offer for different types of tourist, people travelling for work and business reasons or for people who are passionate nature-lovers or wish to follow the traces of literary figures. There are also opportunities to swim in the lakes as well as a wide range of activities in the fields of culture, fashion, art and design, not to mention the trade shows and other important events. Visitors also have the chance to explore the rural traditions of the plain of Lombardy.

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A region with a thousand

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LOMBARDY

Opposite page: a view of Bergamo. Above, from left to right: the Po Valley in the province of Brescia; Piazza Duomo in Cremona; mountain cycling around Livigno.

From the plains to the mountains: places of artistic, natural and historical interest Observing the region from south to north, the mixture of different types of landscape emerges very clearly. The starting point is the Oltrepò area at the southernmost tip of the region; as its name suggests, Oltrepò lies to the south of Italy’s most important river which, for most of its course, marks the boundary between Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. Oltrepò, which has links with Pavia to the west and Mantua to the east, is associated with the tradition of vine cultivation and wine-making in the hills, offering a fascinating experience to tourists who are interested in food and wine, especially if they enjoy traveling by bicycle or motorbike: the so-called “vineyard trail” in the Pavia area, which mainly passes through the Versa and Scuropasso valleys, is ideal for admiring the long and splendid rows of vines which form perfect geometrical patterns on the hill slopes.

The trail passes through many small towns and villages, studded with wineries, holiday farmhouses and restaurants where visitors can relax and enjoy local food and wine traditions to the full. You only need to go slightly further north to reach the old capital of the Lombard kingdom: the city with the famous roofed bridge, Pavia, which the Romans used to call Ticinum (the name refers to its location where the Ticino flows into the river Po). Pavia is not the only Lombard city that can boast a thousand year history: Cremona was the scene of many important events in medieval times and has some beautiful and striking monuments, such as the city hall known as“il Torrazzo” and the architectural complex of the Cathedral and the Baptistery; Mantua, with its splendid palaces (Palazzo Ducale and Palazzo Te), can take tourists on a fascinating journey straight into the age of the splendour, art and pomp of the Gonzagas; Brescia has an extraordinary archaeological site called Santa Giulia which has become an extremely popular destination and is the subject of a prestigious museum display; Bergamo, the city split in two, is still to this day accompanied by the hundred tolls of the bell in the tower in Piazza Vecchia in Bergamo Alta; the bell tolls each day at 10.00 pm marked the closure of the city gates.

The list of places of interest, both large and small, is almost endless; every town and city in Lombardy has an ancient history which is borne out by the importance and productivity of the region. Between the fifth and sixth century BC, a city was founded in the heart of the plain of Lombardy; its Latin name was Mediolanum, and, under its modern name, Milan, the economic capital of Italy. Further to the north, the landscape is totally different: the cultivated areas of the plain lead to the hill country which heralds the Alps and delights visitors with its stunning lakes. From Lake Maggiore, you come to the delightful lakes of Varesotto, before immerging yourself in the pages of history of Lake Como. Visitors to Lake Iseo will be astonished at the sight of the largest lake island, Montisola, and will be equally stunned by Lake Garda, an area with a Mediterranean climate wedged between the mountains.

The varied landscapes of Lombardy end with the Alpine peaks, the destination of winter sports throughout the year, with the famous towns of Livigno, Bormio and Santa Caterina Valfurva, fashionable resorts surrounded by large nature reserves and valleys, such as Valtellina and Val Camonica, which bear the archaeological traces left by their ancient inhabitants.

A thousand places, a thousand tastes The landscape is incredibly varied and the many different culinary traditions reflect these differences: the quintessential symbol of Lombardy is the golden risotto which takes its name from the rice-growing plain that stretches from Milan to the areas of Lomellina, the area around Pavia and towards Novara and Vercelli. Visitors can travel up into the valleys to discover a series of traditional dishes that are influenced by mountain traditions, from special pasta called pizzoccheri to the famous polenta. There is also a chance to taste the specialities of the lakes where dishes are based on freshwater fish and olives and “Mediterranean” olive oil. The food is accompanied by excellent wines of Lombardy (the best wines are made by the wineries of Oltrepò Pavese and Franciacorta).

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Milan, a metropolis with a thousand-year old history

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Province: Milan Altitude: 122 m asl Inhabitants: 1 348 769 Tourist information: IAT r Piazza Castello, 1 corner Via Beltrami Tel +39 02 7740 4343 r Central railway station Departure area platforms 13/14 - Tel +39 02 7740 4318/4319 www.milano.turismo.it

Above: the Needle and Thread sculpture in Piazza Cadorna. Below: Piazza Duomo.

It has been defined as“Milan to drink up”and the“capital of fashion and design”. However, the city was also the capital of the Roman empire, as well as host to the most important political and religious powers, until it eventually became the financial centre of Italy. Milan’s importance (it is the second largest Italian city after Rome) is symbolised by the statue of the “Madonnina”, on the highest spire of the Duomo, the city’s cathedral. This inspired Milan’s unofficial anthem Oh mia bela Madunina, the folk song that has given worldwide fame to the city’s core values, its frenetic activity and careful solidarity: “Milàn l’è ’n gran Milàn” (Milan is a great Milan). Besides the Duomo, the city’s symbols include the Biscione, the symbol of the Visconti family who ruled the city and the surrounding region for many centuries during the Middle Ages: a dragon in the shape of a snake with a young boy in its mouth, which gave rise to many legends and stories about the origin and the events of the city in ancient times. Visitors can choose different ways of visiting Milan. There is the archaeological approach to the city which begins from beneath Piazza Duomo and eventually reaches the Columns of San Lorenzo,

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passing by the Imperial Palace of Maximilian, the necropolises in the courtyards of the Catholic University, the Baths, the streets and the numerous ruins that emerged during the excavations to build the underground railway lines. It is also worth visiting the medieval and renaissance city of Milan, which begins from the Romanesque basilica par excellence, the basilica of St. Ambrose, with its gabled façade and the colonnaded courtyard, and ends up with the Sforza Castle, which now includes some of the city’s museums. Moreover, visitors can discover the technological side of Milan whose origins can be traced back to the fifteenth century plan of the Canals (Navigli) designed by Leonardo da Vinci when he was in the court of Ludwig the Moor, which now aspires to events and creations with increasingly “smart”technology (thanks partly to the planned event EXPO 2015).

The Navigli (the name used for the canals of Milan) are now undergoing major redevelopment for the purposes of tourism, as well as becoming the location for trendy nightlife. Visitors can continue following the trail of Leonardo by seeing the Last Supper (Cenacolo), one of the key symbols of Italian art in the world, the Ambrosian Library where the Atlantic Code is kept, and the National Museum of Science and Technology with the reconstructions of machines designed by Leonardo. The exploration of Milan continues century by century, topic by topic, and character by character, from the site of the siege of the bakery described by Alessandro Manzoni in the Promessi sposi - The Betrothed (it is also possible to visit Manzoni’s house with the adjoining museum) to the portraits by Hayez on display in the Pinacoteca di Brera (art gallery), from the Monumental Cemetery to the modern setting of contemporary sculpture in Piazzale Cadorna. There is also the Nuovo Polo Fieristico (Trade show complex) in Milan (built in Rho in the north-western outskirts of the city), the shopping streets (the so-called “Quadrilatero della moda” or “four-sided shopping district”), the fashion shows, the art exhibitions, and the streets associated with nightlife. This is Milan.

Lake Como, the pleasure residences Made famous by celebrities (from the worlds of cinema and politics) who in recent decades have chosen it as the ideal place for their holiday homes, Lake Como boasts a much older tradition of hospitality for the “stars”: it is necessary to go back in time to find illustrious visitors to the area; they included the scions of the leading aristocratic families of Europe and artists, from painters and poets to musicians (Stendhal, Byron and Liszt just to mention a few) who came for the customary “Journey to Italy”. These visitors stopped off at Lake Como during the Grand Tour, the journey undertaken by the young nobles of continental Europe towards the south where, immersed in the sunshine and the aura of history, they could get inspiration and enjoy the beneficial effects of the Italian climate. It is hardly surprising to find the coastline of this lake, with its curious upturned Y-shape, dotted with large, sumptuous villas with a romantic appearance: the monumental Villa d’Este, Villa Erba and Villa Pizzo in Cernobbio, the elegant Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi in Bellagio. In Lenno, beside the so-called “Bay of Venus”, stands Villa Balbianello, one of the many buildings that is part of FAI (Italian National Trust Fund) where scenes from the films Piccolo Mondo Antico and Casino Royale were shot.

In Tremezzo, one of the classic sites of interest is Villa Carlotta with its splendid garden and the museum that contains works

by Canova and Hayez.

The city of Como offers a two hour walk along the lakeshore which is overlooked by numerous neoclassical residences built between the eighteenth and nineteenth centry, including Villa Saporiti, now the premises of the provincial government,

known as “la Rotonda” due to the elliptical shape of the central room which protrudes from the rest of the building. At the end of the walk, you encounter the sight of the most illustrious of all the neoclassical villas, Villa Olmo, built by Marchese Odescalchi in neoclassical style and now the property of the council, which organises prestigious conferences and exhibitions.

Apart from the worldly pleasures of the past and present, the lush coastline has an aura of history, such as the small town of Brenno or the small island of Comacina, which in medieval times housed the castle which was allied with Milan during the long war against Como. Olives grow plentifully on the island, so that the bay is known as “Zoca de l’oli” (“valley of olive oil”).

The Sacro Monte di Ossuccio – a religious complex and UNESCO World Heritage Site together with other Sacri Monti in Lombardy and Piedmont - overlooks this side of the lake. The complex contains 230 statues made of terracotta and stucco arranged in 15 chapels devoted to the mysteries of the Rosary which lead to the Shrine of Our Lady of Succour (Santuario della Beata Vergine del Soccorso).

The unusual shape of Lake Como has always stimulated the imagination of the local inhabitants, to the extent that it has been described as “a man with one leg in Lecco and another in Como, his nose in Domaso and his backside in Bellagio”. The wonderful natural environment is unspoilt by human intervention and provides the perfect place for a relaxing holiday. There are many opportunities to take part in a wide range of activities, from water sports (sailing, scuba diving, windsurfing and water skiing) to mountain sports (trekking, free climbing), as well as many outdoor and indoor sports that exploit the morning wind from the north (known as “il Tivano”) and the afternoon wind from the south (known as “la Breva”). Most places are well-equipped from this point of view and the sporting ethos is extremely important in the area, as can be seen from the numerous facilities and a longstanding tradition of athletes who have established a worldwide reputation.

Above: Villa d’Este in Cernobbio.

Left: a view of Bellagio.

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Veneto

The most beautiful mountain peaks in the world, the most extensive uplands of Italy, fascinating itineraries

through fortified medieval villages

and vineyards. But there are also great art cities and the medieval or renaissance atmospheres of local festivals, art treasures and prestigious theatre events. And what about its waterways, with river tourism that goes from one Palladian villa to another, Lake Garda that looks onto this region and the Po delta with its unique natural environment waiting to be explored by bicycle, as well as the sea coast and beaches offering all

A kaleidoscope of emotions

the fun and charm typical of the lagoon towns. In brief, this is Veneto: now discover it for yourself!

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VENETO

Opposite page: the Lake of Auronzo. Top of page from left to right: Asiago; a trench on the Dolomites; Chioggia.

From the Uplands to the Lagoon: corners of Veneto waiting to be discovered Called the Upland “of the Seven Communes”, but also known as the upland of Asiago after the name of its main town: this is the most extensive upland in Italy and occupies the Vicenza Alps, marking the border with the region of Trentino. In ancient times, a large part of this territory used to be subdivided into seven districts organized as an independent federation (the most ancient social organization in the world comparable to a modern federal state) called the Spettabile Reggenza dei Sette Comuni (the Honourable Regency of the Seven Communes) which, up until the advent of Napoleon, gravitated around the influence of Venice.

Today, the Communes are now eight and come under the provincial government of Vicenza.

History enthusiasts will find in Veneto a great open air museum of First World War sites: in fact, an important trekking excursion has been organized with the support of a number of historical associations grouped under the“1915/18 Open Air Museums - First World War on Monte Grappa”Association, whose headquarters is in Romano d’Ezzelino. Indeed, in recent years, numerous objects dating back to the First World War have been recovered, particularly in Valle Santa Felicita where the excursion begins, in Col Campeggia and in Col Andreon. The natural point of arrival of this long challenging walk is the Military Shrine of Cima Grappa, where the remains of over 10,000 war victims are buried.

Travelling south, the landscape changes radically when you start to penetrate the six hectares of the San Donà di Piave fluvial park, a natural oasis on the left bank of the river Piave whose landscape reflects the spontaneous growth of shrubs and clusters of riverside trees which confer an uncontaminated and natural aspect to the area. About 40 years ago, this natural complex was originally covered with the residual stubs of poplars used for industrial purposes and was subsequently replanted with more wood producing poplars, a surrounding border of black locust trees and a wood of white poplar, black poplar, plane trees and white willow, thanks to a natural reforestation process. Equipped with river moorings and boat towing facilities (from San Donà it is possible to navigate as far as the mouth of the river Piave), the Park offers rough paths and playing fields, as well as leisure and

picnic areas. For those interested in the history of this land, the excursion can take in a visit to the Regional Land Reclamation Museum “Ca’ Vendramin” which describes the transformation of this territory from ancient times to the present day. Finally, with its many ramifications and lagoons, the Po Delta makes a distinctive mark on the vast territory of the Province of Rovigo which looks out onto the Adriatic sea. This area is one of the vastest wetlands in Europe, 120 sq km of which are protected by the Po Delta Regional Park of Veneto. At just a short distance away, for those seeking an original and intense experience, the Adria racing circuit with its Adria International Raceway is within easy reach.

Any description of Veneto must necessarily include its art cities: the mere mention of Verona, Padua, Vicenza, Treviso, Rovigo and Belluno will show how art and history may constitute an interesting leitmotiv for exploring this region, from its uplands to the lagoon, casting a fascinated glance at its gigantic mountains as you travel through the hills. Verona, the city of love and theatre: the Arena, together with Juliet’s house, attracts millions of visitors every year. Likewise Padua, with its numerous visitors, where the Basilica of Saint Anthony is the destination of a constant and frequent stream of pilgrims coming from all over Italy and abroad.

The other towns in the region are strikingly elegant and hospitable, thanks to centuries of transformation and an ever growing offering of tourist hospitality services.

A Nobel Prizewinner on the Upland In the area of Asiago during the First World War, the eighteen-year-old future Nobel prizewinner for literature, Ernest Hemingway, worked as an ambulance driver: he was enrolled as a volunteer by the US Red Cross, and was appointed to the IV Section of the US International Red Cross with the Lanificio Cazzola in Schio. Wounded in battle, Hemingway was decorated with the silver Medal of Military Valor and the American War Merit Cross for having rescued other wounded soldiers, after being hit himself. His novel Farewell to Arms was inspired by his experience in Veneto and his hospital recovery in Milan.

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Walled cities and cities on water On this page, from the top: Feltre; Burano. Opposite page, from the top: theatre performance at the Arena in Verona; the Castle of Soave; Villa Almerico Capra in Vicenza.

To admire the best preserved city walls of Italy, you have to go to Castelfranco Veneto. It is one of the so-called “walled cities”, those medieval towns that are still steeped in the atmosphere of a glorious past. When you stroll through its narrow streets at dusk, the illuminated castle is a fairytale presence, contributing to augment the mythical aura surrounding this town, which also derives from its having been the birthplace of the enigmatic and extraordinary artist, Giorgione, in the fifteenth century.

Pieve di Cadore, on the other hand, situated at the farthest point north of the region, is the most important town of the entire Cadore and the birthplace of the painter Tiziano Vecellio.

The Cadore area, as well as being the most direct route towards the Dolomite peaks, is known worldwide for its eyewear production and in Pieve itself stands the Eyewear Museum, where splendid collections are showcased to narrate the history of this invaluable aid from the Middle Ages to the present day. Getting back to the walled cities, Cittadella also preserves its city walls intact, whose irregular elliptical shape is broken by as many as 36 towers! Of these, the Tower of Malta (today the premises of

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an archaeological museum) is even mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy.

From art and literature, let’s take a look at history: in the fascinating landscape of the Euganei Hills, Este was the main settlement of the ancient inhabitants of Veneto in the Iron Age but still preserves visible fortified traces of domination, first by the Este family and later by the Carraresi. Then, the place where Carlo Goldini, the famous playwright, made his stage debut is Feltre, a town perched on a hill, which hosts the old “Teatro de la Sena”. During the first week of August, the little town provides the backdrop for an enthralling palio which enacts its spontaneous submission to the Republic of Venice. Leaning on the piedmont flat that extends towards the Brenta river, stands the town of Marostica with its city walls linking the upper and lower castles, and forming a panoramic walk known as Sentiero dei Carmini (the Carmini footpath). The highest expression of tradition in this town is the famous Game of Chess played with living personages, the enactment of a medieval event which takes place every two years on the second Friday, Saturday

and Sunday of September, inspired by the legend of two noble warriors who, in the mid-15th century, both fell in love with a beautiful chatelaine and challenged each other to a game of chess, since duelling was forbidden. Finally, Soave, enclosed by walls erected by the Scaligeri, is famous for its white wine made from the garganega grapes cultivated on the surrounding hills, which is celebrated in May during the “Medieval Festival of Soave white wine”.

And of course, there is no shortage in Veneto of cities on water: Venice the “Serenissima”, is just one of them! Chioggia is “the other Venice”, which experiences the same phenomenon of high tide and stands on a sort of island intersected by narrow streets, squares and canals, the most important of which is the Canal Vena.

In Bassano del Grappa, the Bridge of the Alpini is a famous landmark, and the subject of a famous alpine song; this allwooden structure was designed by Palladio so that it would be flexible enough to withstand the river Brenta in flood, and was rebuilt after the Second World War.

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Venice, the eternally splendid “Serenissima” Venice is mirrored in the Lagoon water and its reflection enraptures visitors, for the beauty of its streets and its canal bridges, for the colours that dialogue between sky and water, for the crowds that throng to monuments and artworks of immense importance, for the picturesque impact of gondolas and gondoliers. St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco), the throbbing heart of this city, takes its name from the famous Basilica of St. Mark, built in an oriental style with its traditional gilded mosaics and surmounted by five Byzantine cupolas. The vast square opens up towards the lagoon on one side and is delimited on its other sides by the high bell tower and the fine historical buildings of the Old and New Procuratie and the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale).

At just a short distance away, stands the elegant and not-tobe-missed Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), which is a compulsory stop on the romantic gondola rides which always go up the Grand Canal and through the entire city. The main waterway is crossed by the Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto), the symbol of this city, characterized by colourful artisanal workshops and one of the busiest points in town with the constant coming and going of tourists. Visitors have to experience Venice on foot, by getting lost in its intricate maze of narrow streets, in the ups and downs of bridges, to discover the Baroque treasures of Santa Maria della Salute and the Academy Galleries which house the masterpieces of 14th and 18th century Venetian artists, and the School of St. Rocco with its extraordinary collection of works by Tintoretto.

But Venice also stands for modern, contemporary and avantgarde art, as testified by the events put on in Palazzo Grassi and at the Venice Biennial.

Summer in the city offers plenty of opportunities: from visiting art collections to climbing the bell tower to take in the breathtaking view of the intricate weave of narrow streets and canals in the historic town centre. From the Sansovino loggia, just under the top of the bell tower with its total height of 98.6 metres, which may be reached in a few seconds by elevator, it is possible to get a close up view of the Marangona (the largest bell that announced the start and end of the working day in the dockyard), the Nona (which tolls at midday), the Trottiera (the bell that used to call the nobles to council meetings) the Pregadì (that announced Senate meetings) and the Renghiera (whose sole purpose was to announce capital executions).

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Province: Venice Altitude: 2,54 m asl Inhabitants: 269.743 Tourist information: Tourist Board Palazzetto Carmagnani - San Marco, 2637 Tel. +39 041 5298711 - www.turismovenezia.it

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Opposite page: a view of St. Mark’s Square. On this page, clockwise: the Bridge of Sighs; gondolas going along the Riva degli Schiavoni; the Rialto Bridge.

It is possible to catch the ferryboat and take in the three marvellous islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello, to admire the numerous blown glass workshops (on the first), the brightly coloured houses with their displays of white lace (on the second), and the extraordinary Romanic complex of Santa Maria Assunta and Santa Fosca (on the third). Then, if you happen to be in town on the third Sunday of July, you will be lucky enough to see the Feast of the Redeemer, which combines religion with folklore, thanks to a firework display that attracts thousands of visitors on Saturday night: in the incomparable setting of St. Mark’s Basin, the play of light and reflections trace a kaleidoscope of colours standing out against the spires, cupolas and steeples of the city. According to tradition, at sunset, boats decorated with greenery, coloured balloons and fairy lights, start to gather in the Basin of St. Marks and the Canal of the Giudecca, dominated by a Palladian Church built in 1577, to thank the Redeemer for the end of the plague.

Cinema enthusiasts cannot possibly miss the International Cinema Festival at the start of September, with its film projections, a great contest, tributes to the outstanding names

of cinema history and, why not, the chance to glimpse some VIPs on the red carpet; all of which is topped by the possibility to enjoy the fashionable city beach, the Lido, whose first bathing establishment, set among natural sand dunes, dates back to 1857.

Besides, on the first Sunday in September, how could you miss the Historical Regatta, in which the century-old “Venetian rowing” technique is put to the test in a series of four competitions (subdivided by age group and type of boat); the most renowned and exciting of these is the regatta of gondola champions who dart down the Grand Canal towards the finishing line in front of the famous“machine”, a spectacular floating platform positioned in front of the Ca’ Foscari palace. The regatta is even more spectacular today with a historical procession that precedes the races: dozens and dozens of typical 16th century multicoloured boats take part in a parade with their gondoliers dressed in period costumes, transporting the Doge, his wife and the most eminent Venetian magistrates, in a faithful reconstruction of the glorious past of one of the most powerful and influential Maritime Republics of the Mediterranean.

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In the name of

relaxation and fun They call it the “gold coast”, for the colour of its endless beaches and the tourist industry that has grown up around it in the course of the centuries. In fact, millions of tourists arrive every year from all over Europe to crowd the bathing establishments of Veneto: families with children seeking peace and quiet and efficient services, young people and teenagers who want to live their holiday to the full, all around the clock, sports enthusiasts and nature lovers, foodies looking to explore new and traditional flavours, elderly people who appreciate comfort and relaxation. Linked together by rows of coloured beach umbrellas, Rosolina Mare, Jesolo, Eraclea, Porto Santa Margherita, Caorle and Bibione each have their own distinct identity and tourist offering but share the same entrepreneurial spirit and desire to pamper tourists. Rosolina Mare, for instance, which is located on the edge of the Po Delta region, and very close to the mouth of the Adige river, has maintained intact its wild natural environment, similarly to the nearby Island of Albarella: midst kilometres of cluster pines and migratory birds, these stretches of water, which extend as far as the eye can see, help create the sort of regenerating holiday atmosphere that is perfect for the more introspective tourist. Once past Veni-

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Traditional tastes This Venetian dish par excellence, Sarde in Saòr (sardines in sweet and sour sauce), is an ancient recipe dating back to the fifteenth century.

A humble fishermen’s dish which keeps well thanks to an extra dose of flavour: saòr in fact means “flavour”, that sweet and sour taste which enhances the humble sardine. You start by gutting and cleaning the fish (without removing its tail), and then go on to dust it in flour and fry it in peanut oil. Cover the fish with onions from Chioggia, which you have previously fried gently in oil and flavoured with sugar, vinegar, sultanas and pine nuts. After a couple of days the saòr sauce will be just right and the dish may be served with slices of white polenta.

ce with its Lido, you encounter the “Cavallino” coast, dotted with lively campsites and animated by numerous festivals that give a “folkloristic” touch to the holiday mood. Then comes Jesolo, characterized by lidos and pinewoods, water sports and well-organized excursions to the “Serenissima”. Small boats, fishing nets and cabins made from wood and bamboo cane (the so-called “casoni”) distinguish the beaches of Caorle, which has successfully combined this traditional aspect with the more contemporary trend of seaside fitness centres and numerous discotheques for enjoying a holiday by the sea, day and night. The Church of Our Lady of the Angel, standing on the rocks near the sea, recalls the seagoing spirit of the people

of Caorle, who have made their living from fishing for centuries. Those who wish to see this part of the coast from a boat will find one of the largest ports of the Adriatic sea at Porto Santa Margherita (just a few kilometres from Caorle), with a mooring capacity for 800 vessels, while Duna Verde, the “park” of Caorle, provides plenty of amusement facilities. In the area surrounding Caorle the presence of a great Acquapark, a complex built in 1990 in a green oasis, is a real attraction for families and young people.

Bibione has a similar landscape, it stands out for its dual tourist offering of relaxation and fun; known as “Tuttaspiaggia”, it is subdivided into Bibione Spiaggia, Lido del Sole and Bibione Pineda, and is considered to be the most important seaside resort on the coast of Veneto, located close to the Friuli-Venezia Giulia border. In proximity to the lighthouse, the symbol of this town, a very popular spa centre has been running since 1996, where mud bath treatments are dispensed.

At the opposite end of the coast, at Sottomarina di Chioggia, no visitor can miss the 10 kilometre walk along the beach leading to the well-known Isolaverde. All in all, this coastline offers about 90 kilometres of crystal clear water (a Blue Flag area since 2010), with beach facilities and services of all kinds, comprising a wide selection of centres for practising various sports: windsurf, sailing, diving activities, beach volley, golf, archery, cycling and horse riding excursions. Wherever you are on this coast, your evenings will be animated by restaurants, pizza parlours, pubs, discotheques, lounge bars, penny arcades and amusement parks. The ideal beaches for relaxing and entertaining holidays at a stone’s throw from historical and artistic treasures of international importance, without forgetting the delicious traditional cuisine offered by this region.

Opposite page, from the top: the beach of Eraclea Mare; a view of Jesolo and its coast.

Above: a jetty of Chioggia Sottomarina at dusk.

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Friuli Venezia Giulia A corner of Italy which in the course of history has experienced troubled events, but from each of those

difficult times has known how to obtain lifeblood. Of this past, the territory bears archaeological, historical, artistic, linguistic and traditional traces. Friuli-Venezia Giulia, due to its strategic location, was a place of obligatory passage and economic and cultural exchange, on the most wedged gulf in the Adriatic Sea, touched by the Bora wind, which reaches speeds of more than 160 km/h, protected by the spectacular Dolomite mountains, with an underground world all to be discovered. And with cities of art which, over the centuries, have often breathed “European� air.

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At the edges

of the territory, in the centre of history

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

The fascination of a border land The Celts, Romans and Lombards have passed through. And then the Venetians and the Habsburgs. The signs of these passages are visible in the great works of art that still characterise the large and small cities in the region, with a dense weave of ages and history. Trieste, the capital, is a cosmopolitan city: it is not difficult to find evidence from the past and present of the different religions (Catholics, Orthodoxes, Jews, Evangelicals, Waldenses). Gorizia is the “garden city”, Pordenone the “city of porticoes”, while Udine has maintained the elegant appearance of the venetian and liberty city. But it is the smaller cities that hold some real surprises. Aquileia, for example, is considered a second Rome in terms of the quantity, quality and size of the archaeological Roman and paleochristian remains that are preserved and can be visited: in the basilica is the largest paleochristian decorative cycle mosaic floor in the whole West!

And while we are on this subject, Spilimbergo is home to the Friuli Mosaic School, known throughout the world for the refinement of its production. The Lombard temple of Cividale is amazing and truly unique, a jewel of eighth century AD art with ancient frescoes, elaborate stucco decorations and different registers of high - reliefs that make it unique: justifiable pomp, if you think that Cividale was home to the first Lombard Duchy of Italy. Still in Cividale you can take a leap back several centuries: not so far from the little temple, in fact, visitors can admire a Celtic Hypogeum consisting of several connected rooms, underground, cut into the rock, containing three mysterious stone masks that represent faces and the recesses in which the urns of high ranking people were placed.

For other pleasant surprises you should go to Sesto al Reghena where there is an air of the Middle Ages (the Abbey is a real jewel of medieval architecture) or Palmanova, a fortress city with nine points, or Venzone, a fortified village dominated by the castle but made famous due to the many mummies found in the crypt of the former chapel of San Michele, in front of the Duomo: today we can observe five, but originally there were almost forty. The first discovery, in 1647, was that of the “Hunchback” mummy, named in this way not because of the obvious physical defect that seemed to characterise the body that was found, but due to the gibbous shape caused by improper burial. The phenomenon of mummification in Venzone is possibly thanks to a fungus that grows in the tombs of the Duomo, the parasitic

mould Hipha Bombicina Pers which can dehydrate the body in a year and make the skin pergameneous.

You enter into full Venetian spirit with the city of Codroipo, where the very well known Villa Manin is located, the last residence of the doges of Venice, and Sacile, known as the “Garden of the Serenissima” along the river Livenza.

The town of Muggia tells a different story, an ancient IstrianVenetian village, which maintains the characteristics and memories of a strip of land and a peninsula (now mostly Croatian) populated since ancient times by Istrians and Venetians. Muggia is the only Istrian city, on Italian soil, predominantly Italian (San Dorligo della Valle, a little further inland, is an Italian town but mostly Slovenian): Italians in Istria generally speak, as well as Italian (now protected as a language in Slovenia and Croatia too), also two distinct indigenous languages of Romance origin: the Istroveneto and Istriot, the first considered a variety of the Veneto-Friuli dialect, the second a local evolution of Vulgar Latin with Venetian, Dalmatian and Slavic influences. It’s worth a stop in Muggia, for its beauty, overlooking the Gulf of Trieste, but also to pay homage to the value of citizenship in the partisan struggle for freedom.

Opposite page: the incredibly long coastline of Lignano Sabbiadoro. Above from left to right: the ruins of Aquileia; detail of a fresco in the small Lombard church of Cividale del Friuli; aerial view of Palmanova. Below: the Abbey of Sesto al Reghena.

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The Trieste of coffee, intellectuals and a thousand cultures Province: Trieste Altitude: 2 m asl Inhabitants: 202.563 Tourist information: A.i.a.t. Trieste Piazza Unità d’Italia 4/b Tel. +39 040 3478312 www.turismofvg.it

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There are many ways to visit Trieste, a city with one eye on the Adriatic and the other on the harsh karstic promontory. You can experience the city of the sea, with the piazza dell’Unità which is among the prettiest and widest maritime squares in the world, where the sea crosses the border of the city with unique elegance and harmony.

You can also choose to discover Trieste following the architectural trail, to admire the simple and natural combination of Baroque and neoclassical buildings with Art Nouveau and eclectic constructions, in an exclusive co-existence with Roman ruins and Habsburg style.

One of the most curious and satisfying options, however, is the circuit of pubs, bars, cafés and shops: in the typical “osmizze”, Vitovska is drunk (a typical Slovenian white wine, perfect with fish and light hors d’oeuvres) and Terrano (dry red wine with a low alcohol content that is produced in the Trieste area from grapes grown in red soil, mentioned by Pliny and used by the Romans), suitable to accompany cold meats, game and meat

in general. You can also enjoy a jota soup, with beans, potatoes and sauerkraut, with clearly German roots.

To live as the people of Trieste do, one must explore the city by way of the coffee shops. The first were opened in the eighteenth century imitating the fashionable shops in Venice, but from the outset with unique characteristics, with traits of Vienna: the city, the emporium in the middle of Europe, could offer a variety of beverages and spices from the north and south.

They soon formed the first coffee houses frequented by Austrian civil servants and officers, the bourgeois cafés and the famous literary cafés. In the old piazza dei Negozianti, for example, is the Caffè Tommaseo, founded in 1830 and now a privileged meeting-place for artists: ice cream was introduced here for the first time! Created as a typical Austrian-Hungarian establishment, decorated with mirrors and stucco, the Caffè Stella Polare was a meeting place for local and foreign intellectuals. The Caffè degli Specchi, in Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, in the heart of the city, was established in 1839 and because of its position immediately became a favourite place to follow all the historical, political, economic and cultural events in the city. After the Second World War it was requisitioned by the Anglo-Americans Allies and from that moment the insignia of the Royal Navy has been positioned inside. If from 1863 the Caffè Tergesteo (in front of the Teatro Verdi) was attended by businessmen from the nearby stock exchange, the Caffè San Marco, which opened in 1914, became a laboratory for the preparation of false passports for the anti-Austrian patriots who fled to Italy. Completely destroyed by the Austrians during the First World War, it was later rebuilt in the twenties to become a meeting place for many intellectuals in Trieste such as Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. Inside, the typical atmosphere of the Viennese café: the inlaid wooden bar, the medallions on the walls, the marble tables with cast iron legs, mirrors and frescoes. Finally, a mention for the most frequent visitor to the Caffé Pasticceria Pirona: the writer James Joyce, who designed his Ulisse here.

In short, between the Miramare Castle, built in the mid-nineteenth century by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg, the Fountain of the Four Continents, the Arco di Riccardo and the Cathedral of San Giusto, there will certainly be time for a coffee that speaks of history.

Above: the interior of a café in Trieste. On the left: the castle of Miramare.

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A region to discover...

underground!

Limestone rocks that are more than 120 million years old.

Originally the Karst was submerged in shallow sea water, with warm temperatures and inhabited like a coral reef! Carbonate deposited over thousands of years and turned into rock emerged as a result of strong tectonic movements and from that moment the process of erosion began: weathering carried out a slow modification of the landscape, forming caves, sinkholes and dolines and by infiltrating water to form underground rivers.

All this can be explored. A few kilometres from Trieste, for example, you can enter the largest tourist grotto in the world: the Grotta Gigante, a huge cave that is almost 300 metres long and with a 107-metre dome, into which the ancient network of river tunnels flow and in which the temperature remains constant between 10 and 12 degrees throughout the year. The range of colours and shapes of stalactites and stalagmites is truly amazing, so much so that some, due to their shape, have been given names like “pulpito”, “palma” (7 meters high!) and “colonna di Ruggero” (12 meters!).

A short distance from Cividale del Friuli is the Grotta di San Giovanni d’Antro, which takes its name from the cult who settled there around the eighth century. The cave is much earlier, such that in prehistoric times it would have offered shelter to the local populations. It is accessed by an entrance fortified with a stairs with more than a hundred steps.

Unique to the type of rock that you can see, the Grotta nuova di Villanova has galleries that run flat for 8 km and two paths, one a simple tourist route, the other for speleology tourism, which enters into the more hidden caves. It is always fascina-

Above: a picturesque view of Grotta Gigante.

ting to observe the eccentric shapes of the limestone formations, which seem to defy gravity. Even the Grotta delle Torri di Slivia is considered one of the wonders of the Trieste Karst and has two entrances: an artificial entrance, with about 200 steps that lead 60 metres underground, and a natural entrance, a 30-metre well where you can only descend with caving equipment.

Inside, you can not miss the famous stalagmite towers, a group of eight concretions of various sizes, from which the grotto takes its name. The flow of visitors is precisely regulated to protect a large colony of bats living there, which go into hibernation and reproduce in the grotto.

Finally the “national temple of cavers” the Grotta Verde di Pradis, so named for the emerald green colour that illuminates the walls. After the descent of 207 steps we find the creation carved by the river Cosa. The Christmas mass is celebrated every year in front of the bronze statue of the Virgin. Palaeontological and archaeological traces of Prehistoric occupation of the grotto can be seen in the museum.

San Daniele: tradition of gastronomic excellence There are three rules that must be followed for the production of raw San Daniele ham. First, the thighs should be from pigs reared in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, EmiliaRomagna, Tuscany, Lazio, Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria. Then, of course, the traditional process must be respected: the meat should quickly reach San Daniele, on the hills of Friuli, because it is absolutely forbidden to freeze it. Here it is only treated with sea salt. And the so-called “aging” process can only start in San Daniele. In fact it is necessary to have the winds that descend from the Carnic Alps and those from the Adriatic. The resinous scents mingle with salty ones in an environment where temperature and humidity are regulated by the moraine lands and the waters of the river Tagliamento.

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Liguria The perfect balance between the rough, unspoilt nature of the mountains and the luxuriant gentleness of the sea, with sudden and surprising changes in height between the summits and the water level. This is Liguria, a region of holidays, nature, sport and wellness, of simple and authentic flavours, but also of ancient civilizations and contemporary culture. A concentration of wealth that you can not fail to appreciate: from the music of the great songwriters to the worldliness of the most famous festival in Italy, passing by the flowers, from which the Riviera takes its name.

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A balcony

over the

Mediterranean

LIGURIA

Opposite page: a view of Manarola, one of the Cinque Terre. Above: a market stall selling the typical focaccia of Liguria in Camogli. Above right: an olive grove near La Spezia.

The Ligurian villages, jewels between the mountains and the sea Perched on the hills, overlooking the sea, the picturesque villages in Liguria give colour to the entire coast and the hinterland with their romantic, old and traditional atmosphere.

Villages to explore, enjoy and experience by delving into the past, included among the “Most beautiful villages in Italy” and awarded with the orange flag by the Italian Touring Club.

In the hinterland to the west of Genoa, in the Stura Valley, Campo Ligure is identified today by the narrow alleyways or caruggi (some are just a few tens of centimetres wide) populated by goldsmith shops. Those same alleyways in the village of Pigna are called chibi and have concentric rings giving the town the typical shape of a pine cone, from which the town takes its name. Unique shapes and lines are also found in the “round” village of Varese Ligure whose elliptical layout reminds us of its defensive function. This time located at the foot of the Apennines, at the confluence of the Gravegnola and Chicciola streams with the river Vara, is Brugnato built around the core of an ancient abbey of the late seventh century.

In the Nervia Valley, Apricale takes its name from the fact it is exposed to the sun (in Latin apricus), perched on a hill in a kind of cascade of stone houses. Equally spectacular, but halfway between the sea and the hills, is Borgio Verezzi, with wonderful views of the coast, among the perfumes of the Mediterranean vegetation. The double name, in this case, is due to two historic centres with parallel stories that have experienced the Saracen invasions, the bishops of Albenga and the Republic of Genoa. Here there are very striking glimpses, washbasins, doors between the caruggi and the creuze (alleyways and lanes). The first document that mentions Dolceacqua dates back to 1151; this small village was built from the castle at the top of the rocky spur, spread along a stream, with an older part called Terra and a more modern part called Borgo.

The Finale stone adorns the gates, forms the columns and enhances the narrow alleyways of these villages. Medieval walls and semicircular towers overlooking the sea announce settlements such as Finalborgo (one of the three centres that make

The Ligurian oil and identity Ligurian olive oil is an integral part of the local culture. It is said that the Benedictine monks spread the olive tree in Liguria, with different effects in the production between East and West. The extra virgin olive oil, which is always fruity, is spicy in the East and sweet in the West. Seven varieties of olive trees are grown whose olives are used to produce three types of oil with protected designation of origin (PDO): “Riviera dei Fiori”, “Riviera del Ponente Savonese” and “Riviera del Levante”. A common element, in addition to the membership of the same consortium, (Oli DOP Riviera Ligure), is the percentage of black olives over 90%.

up the town of Finale Ligure) dominated by the baroque Basilica di San Biagio, whose unfinished façade of rough stone hides the richness of the interior decoration. Or like Cervo, dominated by the castle and embellished by the Church “dei Corallini” (the coral fishermen who contributed to its construction), and Zuccarello, with characteristic buildings (such as the Romanesque Bridge), which, due to its strategic position, was one of the key points used by Napoleonic troops.

These extraordinary villages adorn the Ligurian territory and the entire region is dotted with significant and picturesque towns, from the more worldly centres, popular with tourists to those that are more “family friendly”. There are also many interesting facts about these places, such as Laigueglia, populated as early as 1330 by Catalan coral fishermen, whose mark remains in many Spanish-surnames and place names (such as the church of Nostra Señora de la peña, Our Lady of the Rock).

The geography of the area of the Cinque Terre becomes surprisingly more extreme, where the thousand-year old villages boldly climb next to the coast overlooking the sea: Lerici, heart of the Gulf of Poets (the works of Lord Byron and Mary Shelley were written here), Levanto, bearing an elegant and aristocratic appearance, Manarola, famous for the Via dell’Amore (Way of Love), Portovenere, whose name indicates its beauty, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza, overlooking the blue sea with pastel-coloured houses.

There really is something for everyone!

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Genoa: elegant, superb, unique Province: Genoa Altitude: 19 m asl Inhabitants: 606 978 Tourist information: IAT Office via Garibaldi - tel. +39 010 5572903/751 www.genova-turismo.it

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An elegant but reserved city, proud but shy. Like its inhabitants.

Beautiful, when you discover the popular quarters in contrast with the Renaissance palaces, churches and villas. Unique, situated on the gulf at the centre of the two Rivieras, dominated by one of the largest tourist and commercial ports in the Mediterranean and by the scientific and cultural centre in which the Aquarium is the main draw for tourists. Genoa offers the historical and artistic heritage of a true city of art and comes alive every year with events of great interest: the famous Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics, the Salone della Nautica (Genoa International Boat Show), the Euroflora.

The discovery of the city starts from Piazza Matteotti, with the fun combination of courtyards, loggias and colonnades of the Palazzo Ducale, with its eighteenth-century façade facing the square. A visit to the Doge’s apartments allows you to dive into the glorious period of the city and the recent recoveries made it possible to reconstruct the luxury and wealth of the time. Right in front of the Palazzo Ducale is the Teatro Carlo Felice: it was here that the memorable concert by Fabrizio De André was held on Christmas Eve in 1997, and also the emotional commemoration a few days after his death in January 1999, with two thousand peo-

ple in the audience and more than a thousand outside, in front of a big screen.

Moving toward Piazza San Lorenzo, you can not fail to admire the Cathedral of the same name, whose majestic façade with white and black stripes, three imposing access portals, once again takes you back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance period that saw Genoa become the capital and cornerstone of the traffic of goods from around the world.

A memory of that era of trade, departures, great voyages and discoveries can be found in the streets of the historic centre, where a few tiny shops survive that still sell herbs and spices from all over the world.

And it is the common neighbourhoods, with their narrow, colourful, labyrinthic streets that let you breathe the history of a port city, with its active population, more material than philosophizing, more tied to goods than thought, but enriched by the characteristics of the cultures from all over the world thanks to trade.

Genoa is inextricably linked to the name of Christopher Columbus, its most famous citizen, both legendary and mysterious, forced to turn to Spain to organise the trip that started the modern era.

Walking down the streets in the centre, you will discover a new side of the city, with the baroque via Balbi overlooked by the imposing Palazzo Reale, with its more than 100 metres of façade and home to the Art Gallery with works by Van Dyck and the amazing Galleria degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors).

At the end of via Balbi is the famous monument to Christopher Columbus and the façade of the Principe railway station from where via Andrea Doria starts leading to the Palazzo (or Villa) del Principe, the domain of the old port, dominated by the 117-metre Lanterna (Lighthouse of Genoa), the symbol of the city, behind which lies the via Pré district, the infamous and degraded area that has recently embarked on the road of urban and social recovery.

This page, clockwise: an area of the dock in Genoa; the Cathedral of St. Laurence; the Bigo structure in the Old Port.

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A magical land of water From the city to the open sea, everything in Liguria allows you to immerse yourself into the blue and gain a unique experience in contact with the inhabitants of the sea. Start from Genoa, where the area of the old port is home to the famous Aquarium, a place where learning becomes a fun and addictive experience (a true “edutainment”). In addition to the largest aquarium in Italy and the second largest in Europe, built by Renzo Piano for the Expo 1992, in which 70 ecosystems are represented in as many tanks, for adults and children there are the “Città dei Bambini e dei Ragazzi” and “Biosfera”, areas of play and discovery of science and technology, the large panoramic lifts “Bigo” and “Galata”, the largest and most innovative maritime museum in the Mediterranean, with the reconstruction of a Genoese galley from the seventeenth-century which is 33 metres long and a brigantine schooner from the nineteenth century and with six thousand original objects. These visits allow a closer look at how navigation has evolved over the centuries, how the technologies have changed, and how man lived and is living with the sea. But the star attractions are the sharks, dolphins, penguins, seals, rays and even corals: they can be seen, in some cases you can touch them, but we also try to understand how they live and what you can do to respect them in their natural habitat.

The waters of the Ligurian Sea also offer an opportunity for innovative tourism. It is home to the only protected marine area established in the international arena (in 1999): the Cetacean Sanctuary, which covers about 87,000 square kilometres in the waters of Italy, France and Monaco. In fact, this is an area with a high concentration of twelve different spe-

This page: in the magical world of the Aquarium, Genoa.

cies of cetaceans, settled here because of the wealth of fish on which they feed. It is not hard to spot them, when participating in whale watching organised by institutions and consortia, sailing from Genoa and Savona with the assistance of WWF professionals and biologists, allowing you to enter the world of these giant aquatic mammals with respect for their environment. The different species range from the fin whale - that measures an average of 25 metres in length and can weigh more than 20 tons - to the common dolphin, sperm whales and killer whales. The observations on the boat, which the public may participate in, are also a chance to identify each specimen with photos which are then entered into a European database, which monitors their health and behaviour.

Diving enthusiasts must not forget to visit the Regional Natural Park of Portofino with a protected marine area, which contains spectacular underwater ecosystems. The coastline with rock hanging over the promontory in fact creates one of the most interesting and unspoiled seabeds in the Mediterranean, with cliffs full of caves and coves, ideal for the life of sponges, gorgonians and corals of various tints. However the sandy seabeds on the sides of the promontory host the so-called “prairies” of posidonia oceanica, a marine plant that implements a continuous action of consolidation of the seabed and serves as an indicator of the quality of the coastal marine waters.

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Foto Paritani

Emilia Romagna The region situated immediately south of the Po river, where the

destiny of ancient Rome’s dominion over the peninsula was decided:

it was 10 January 49 B.C. and Julius Cesar,

decided to cross the river Rubicon from Ravenna and, on pronouncing the famous phrase Alea iacta est, gave way to the Roman civil war.

The region that has produced the great names of Italian light music, which boasts the most famous riviera in Europe, prestigious Italian automobile companies and the small or large-scale agricultural and food industries that represent Italy worldwide. This is Emilia-Romagna: whatever it decides to produce, it makes an impression.

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A land of passions

and pleasure

EMILIA ROMAGNA

Foto Paritani

Land of flavours, land of motors Food embodies our recollections of territory, history and tradition.

Nothing could be closer to the truth in Emilia-Romagna, where as many as 19“taste museums”have been created to safeguard its fine food and wines: a heritage that comprises its exquisite gastronomic specialities and the art of simple hospitality in which this region has always excelled. A show of hospitality which, on the Riviera, is young at heart, dynamic and extremely well organized, while further inland or in town, takes the form of warm- heartedness, music, a smiling welcome and an entrepreneurial spirit.

In the province of Parma, in the kitchens and cellars of Castello Felino, the Felino Salami Museum has its premises. Other symbols of excellence belonging to this province are the Museum of Parma Ham in Langhirano and the Museum of Parmesan Cheese in Soragna. In Montecchio Emilia, in the area of Reggio Emilia, Lambrusco is celebrated in the Wine Museum, which provides a detailed description of its history and vinification techniques, thanks to the enthusiasm of a family that has been engaged in its production for over a century. And, of course, the Modena area could not possibly do without its Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum, located in Spilamberto, where the visitor’s tour starts in a charming barrel-shaped room, and the Tigella Museum and Borlengo Workshop, occupying two different premises in Samone di Guglia and Lame di Zocca. In the province of Ferrara, looking out onto the water in Comacchio, it is possible to enter into the unique world created by the Eel Museum, an ancient building where visitors may observe fish processing techniques.

Still on the coast, but close to Ravenna, this time, the Salt Museum of Cervia describes the work behind this precious white substance extracted from the sea. Exquisite flavours that are worth learning about and tasting, in order to fully enjoy this territory. But, in Italian, sapori (flavours) rhymes with motori (motors). And in Emilia Romagna motors are another expression of excellence. So much so, that the term “Motor Valley” has been coined.

So don’t miss a visit to the Automobile Museum in San Martino in Rio, which exhibits about forty cars, a dozen motorbikes and sidecars, an historical library, a photographic archive and multimedia supports. This is also the headquarters of the San Martino Racing stable: if the Museum preserves the cars, the Racing stable makes them move. From four to two-wheelers, to complete the picture, it is worth paying a visit to the National Motorcycle Museum in Rimini: 250 motorcycle exhibits to represent 65

different brands, subdivided by theme and period. Of particular interest is the Guzzi 500 which belonged to the painter, Ligabue.

On the grounds in front of the exhibition centre, a bring and buy market for exchanging motorbike accessories has been held ever since 1994, with sessions on the third Sunday of each month. As in the case of food, there are plenty of museums for enthusiasts to visit, as many as 14 in fact. Of these, the most famous is the Ferruccio Lamborghini Museum Centre, in Dosso (Ferrara), where the futuristic structure housing the collections is situated right in front of the production plants. You just have to cross over to the other side of the Italian border to visit Maranello Rosso – the Ferrari Museum and the Red Abarth Museum, in Falciano, in the Republic of San Marino. Finally, for all those who do not only want to know, but also try out, drive and hear the roar of engines firsthand, there is the Misano World Circuit, the Enzo and Dino Ferrari International Racing track in Imola, the Riccardo Paletti Racing track in the area of Parma and the Modena Racing track, as well as the huge number of go kart circuits and the production plants of some of the most famous brands, including Ducati and Maserati. A real paradise for racing enthusiasts!

Opposite page: aquagym class in the Aquafan water park in Riccione.

Above from left to right: the emblem of Ferrari, the famous sports car manufacturer; checking the maturation of Parmesan cheeses; descent on a rubber dinghy at the Aquafan water park in Riccione; the beach of Viserba.

Piadina, the symbol of Romagna Flour, lard, salt and water: this is the piadina of Romagna, the symbol of the Riviera. There are a number of variations on the traditional theme, folded over and filled with cooked ham, squacquerone cheese and rocket, or even chocolate cream. The crescione, for instance, is a piada that is filled, folded over and closed before being cooked: its name derives from its filling of cress, which is now difficult to find but once grew abundantly along ditches and canals. Another version called “tortello alla lastra” is simply a sheet of piadina pastry rolled out finely and filled with potatoes that have been boiled, pureed and seasoned with onion, pecorino cheese, nutmeg, bacon and salt, or greens and ricotta cheese.

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Bologna Strolling midst towers and porticos

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Province: Bologna Altitude: 54 m asl Inhabitants: 382 460 Tourist information bureau: IAT Piazza Maggiore Palazzo del Podestà – Piazza Maggiore 1/e Tel. +39 051 239660 - www.bolognawelcome.com

Of the 100 towers – more or less - built in Bologna in and around the XII century, only 24 still remain standing today. With its almost completely porticoed historical town centre, the socalled red city, whose name is mainly due to the red brick with which it is built but also to its political leanings during the last century, lends itself to about two hours’ of urban trekking. The sites on the tourist track are numerous and curiously named, such as the Torre degli Agresti, Torre dei Lapi, Torre dei Galluzzi. This tour makes an interesting and instructive experience since it enables us to understand the function of towers from the Middle Ages onwards: a family that could afford to build a tower was able to demonstrate its political power, importance and wealth. The higher and more visible the tower was, in fact, the greater the power behind it. On reaching Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, you come across the two symbols of medieval Bologna: the Two Towers, both of which lean over, standing at the meeting point of the streets leading to the five fortified gateways of the ancient city walls known as “torresotti”. The one which leans over most (and is shorter, 48 m) is the Garisenda, mentioned several times by Dante in the Divine Comedy, while

the other, the Torre degli Asinelli, is the highest leaning tower in Italy (97.2 m) and, if you climb up the steps inside, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills and St. Luke’s Church from the top. During the “tower tour” it is advisable to stop off at Piazza del Nettuno, pass under the Voltone del Podestà to “talk in the corners” and observe the Torre dell’Arengo. Then go back to Piazza Maggiore to take in the last tower, that of the Clock.

The other all-important landmark of Bologna is the University: in fact this was the site where the first university of the western world was founded, the Alma Mater Studiorum. In spite of being first mentioned in 1317, but already known in the XI century for its legal studies, the studium of Bologna did not have a permanent location until the mid XVI century, so the professors of ancient times used to hold their lectures in their own homes or in rooms rented from the Municipality.

The 42 km of porticos characterizing this city were actually built to provide hospitality to the wealthy students, most of whom were foreigners. The heart of Bologna’s University is the palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, erected by Pious IV in 1561 to unite all the schools of the Studium under one roof. Palazzo Poggi, on the other hand, was built in the mid 16th century and was chosen by Napoleon in 1802 as the new location of the modern University of Bologna. Finally, Via Zamboni, is the street most frequented by the city’s students and ever since 1756 it has been overlooked by the University library.

Above: the colonnades of Strada Maggiore.

Below: a picturesque night time view of Piazza Maggiore.

The riviera... that never sleeps!

1843. The first bathing establishment was opened in Rimini.

The new sea bathing therapy was being promoted by English doctors: from here in Rimini and its Riviera, a proper industry grew up, consisting of hotels, restaurants, beach facilities, spa centres, discotheques and services of all kinds. People go to the Romagna Riviera to dance all night, drink an evening cocktail on the coast, work out on the fitness beaches and get to know people. But it is also popular with those who like to take long walks with the family, enjoy beach entertainment with the kids, or have fun in the aquatic parks. Many things have changed since 1843, but one thing remains constant: the organization of a whole area as though it were one single tourist product and a unique tourist experience.

Among the various locations on this coast, Rimini is certainly the one that most combines the concept of tourist resort and cultural hub: it offers 30 km of beaches complete with facilities, over 1000 hotels, hundreds of restaurants and pizza parlours, but also a large Municipal Museum, an historical town centre boasting many Ancient Roman and Renaissance monuments, the archaeological sites of the Surgeon’s Domus. In addition, numerous events and shows are staged during the summer, with something for all ages. For example? The Pink Night, the Riviera Beach Games, the Paganello, the Cartoon Club, the Trade Fair and the new Congress Hall, the Fitness Festival etc.

Riccione, on the other hand, is the Green Pearl of the Adriatic, the trendiest and most celebrated destination, which offers holidays for all budgets (from family-run guest houses to luxury hotels). The attractions also include some of the most popular

discotheques in Italy, from the Cocoricò to the Peter Pan and the Baia Imperiale, and the entire area involved in the Rimini night-life, the Marano, with its pubs, lounge bars and nightclubs for dancing on the beach, the amusement parks Aquafan, Oltremare and Fiabilandia, excursions inland towards the nearby Republic of San Marino, the fortified villages of San Leo and Sant’Arcangelo. The long list of resorts goes on to include Cattolica, Bellaria Igea Marina, Gabicce, Cesenatico, Cervia and Misano Adriatico. Milano Marittima, separated from Cervia by a century-old pine forest, is a favourite resort of VIPs, sports celebrities and socialites, since it offers the last word in fashion, music and lifestyle trends. Its hotels are icons of modern design, signed by the most famous architects of our times, along with its glamorous venues and beaches. For those who seek the excitement and adrenaline rush of amusement parks, there is Mirabilandia (in Savio) just a short distance away, or for art and culture enthusiasts, the marvellous town of Ravenna, a Unesco heritage site, which takes you straight into the Byzantine age with its amazing mosaics. Along the same lines of tourist development as Riccione and Milano Marittima, Marina di Ravenna has emerged in recent years as an exotic corner of Romagna thanks to its Duna degli Orsi, an original venue which started out as a place for surfers to gather, and Zanzibar, which re-creates the festive atmosphere of Brazil.

Wherever you go in Emilia-Romagna, every town and village is steeped in history and tradition: from the beaches on the Riviera, you just have to move inland to come across Ferrara, an amazing town which has preserved intact the lavish Renaissance style imposed by the d’Este family. And what about Faenza, a workshop-town for the production of handcrafted ceramics.

Above: an outdoor disco on the riviera.

On the left: a dolphin show at the Dolphinarium in Rimini.

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Toscana

Tuscany offers beautiful seas, hills, spas,

festivals and cities with a rich artistic heritage, with a bit of mountainous landscape thrown

in for good measure. Tuscany has everything

visitors could possibly need for a well-rounded holiday. Just choose whether to spend your holiday on the white sandy beaches of Versilia with celebrities or have a healthy cycling holiday amid “picture postcard” hills, sunflowers and vineyards. Visitors are spoilt for choice: on the one hand there are the numerous local fairs and festivals that focus mainly on simple, tasty and genuine Tuscan food; on the other, you can enjoy a relaxing time in the spa waters that flow from the rocks to form natural pools of hot spring water set amidst the countryside. Visitors

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postcard views

can opt for a comprehensive cultural holiday from the art of Tuscany’s famous towns and cities to the numerous medieval jousts organised throughout the region. The alternative is to try and do a bit of everything, experiencing Tuscany to the full.

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TUSCANY

Opposite page: a riot of colour in the hills of Val d’Orcia. Above from left to right: local handicrafts; rock near the island of Palmarola; Piazza del Campo in Siena; Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa.

In the cradle of the Renaissance The cities of art in Tuscany make a winning team because they form a perfect “package” which never ceases to arouse the curiosity of visitors: travelling from one place to the next, you pass through marvellous landscapes which relax the mind and help you to leave the stress of modern city life far behind.

A good place to start is Prato and its Castello dell’Imperatore (Emperor’s castle), a rare and imposing example of SwabianAngevin architecture. Prato is a true city of art, considering that it is possible to admire the works of Andrea della Robbia in the church of Santa Maria delle Carceri while the Cathedral of St. Stephen contains the frescoes of Paolo Uccello and Filippo Lippi. Renowned since the Middle Ages for the manufacture and trade of fabrics, Prato provides an illustrated overview of this historical activity in the Museo del Tessuto (Textile and Fabric Museum).

The tour moves from Prato to Pistoia, where it is worth visiting the beautiful Piazza del Duomo with the Cathedral of St. Zeno, and the town hall and the magistrates’ and the bishop’s palaces with their gothic profiles.

Known as“the city with a hundred churches”, Lucca greets visitors with its colourful rounded square, a welcoming place steeped in history like the entire region it represents. The most important of the hundred churches is undoubtedly the Cathedral of St. Martin where visitors can admire the wonderful works of Nicola Pisano and the marvellous gothic-renaissance tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, made in 1407 by Jacopo della Quercia in memory of the wife of Paolo Giunigi, the lord of the city. Before leaving Lucca, you can not miss a romantic walk along the renaissance city wall, a hanging garden that surrounds the historic centre. Pisa is unquestionably

an emblematic representative of Italian art and architecture in the world. The famous Leaning Tower stands next to the Cathedral in Piazza dei Miracoli (the Square of Miracles) although it is actually the Cathedral’s bell tower. Construction work on the tower began in 1173 but it began to lean over midway during the building work due to the ground subsidence. Inside the Cathedral, which is divided into five naves, the pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano is one of the most important gothic sculptures in Italy. Massa and Carrara, just a few kilometres away from the Apuan Riviera, still preserve the charm of traditional historic towns and cities of art and culture. Immediately to the north, set between the Apuan Alps and the Appenines, lies Lunigiana, the region that supplied the marble used to stunning effect in the cathedral of Carrara, the Cathedral of Massa and all the façades of the large churches of Tuscany and nearby Liguria.

Overlooking the sea, Livorno is famous for its Naval Academy and the headquarters of the “Folgore” Parachutists’ Brigade. It is also renowned for the cacciucco, the rich fish soup that is the city’s trademark dish. It is primarily a port city and, as such, has always been open to different cultures and religions: it houses a place of worship and a monumental cemetery for every religion! Siena is the protagonist of the Tuscan summer with the Palio, which is held twice a year. It is the queen of traditional historical re-enactments.

Tourists can enjoy a full immersion in the city’s past: this includes the division of the city into districts, the concentric plan around Piazza del Campo and the Mangia Tower, the Fonte Gaia and the Palio, which still arouses passionate feelings to this day. Visitors can enjoy a similar trip through time at Arezzo, which has a carefully preserved historic appearance, with its Giostra del Saracino (Saracen Joust) in which the city’s four districts challenge each other.

Below: Piazza dell’Anfiteatro in Lucca.

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From sunflowers to woods, the magic of the Tuscan hills In terms of landscape, Tuscany immediately conjures up visions in tourists’ minds of the region’s gently rolling hills.

Val d’Orcia represents the standard image of the yellow hills, with a narrow row of cypresses on the “hump”. We are in Siena’s heartland, where the panorama is stripped down to the bare essentials and is of matchless simplicity... and yet quite wonderful. The colours of the sky and the different shades that follow each other during the day offer a constant contrast to the warm colours of the fields, the red soil when it is freshly ploughed (“Siena earth”), the green crops in early summer and the golden hues of late summer. Even the roads have a harmonious quality, following the contours and bends of the slopes, without any excesses and with effortless elegance, often accompanied by orderly rows of cypress trees. The summits of the most imposing hills are topped with towns, castles, abbeys and monasteries, surrounded by the vineyards of Brunello. A small part of the area is mountainous, in the westernmost part of the valley where Mount Amiata, the highest extinct volcano in Italy, silently overlooks Castel del Piano and, further in the distance, Montalcino, Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico d’Orcia and other romantic towns. The river that gives its name

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to the valley is little more than a stream; in summer it often runs dry while in autumn it is a fast-flowing and tumultuous stream. However, there are other water features which have made this area distinctive since ancient Roman times: in Bagno Vignoni the spa waters have been exploited with small natural and artificial pools, linked to each other by ancient water channels which use the force of gravity to create small waterfalls and constant movement. Most of the water collects in a large pool (where swimming is not permitted) which replaces the town square and gives it a unique appearance: the impact is particularly strong on summer days, when the blue of the sky and the colours of the flowers are reflected in the middle, creating plays of light and unique reflections.

Chianti also lies in the Siena area and its landscape almost appears to have been drawn or painted. The fascinating Crete Senesi are hills that continuously change shape due to the sculpting of the clay which forms the main component of the soil. Here too, there are plenty of opportunities to relax, with the spa waters of Rapolano Terme, to enjoy local food, tasting the truffle of San Giovanni d’Asso, and to appreciate local archaeology; it is worth visiting the fascinating excavation of

Pieve di Pava where each summer hundreds of students from all over the world excavate and study a medieval site which was probably built on old Roman buildings and possibly even Etruscan ruins. It is quite common to see young people walking along in rows in the fields at a fixed distance from each other with their eyes glued to the ground and holding state-of-theart machinery: they are involved in archaeological survey and remote sensing and other disciplines which provide crucial support for classical archaeological excavation.

Chianti is naturally associated with wine. Just move to the right hills, with the best exposure to the sun and the ideal mineral components in the soil, to discover colourful rows of vines with different varieties of grapes: even the wines produced in the Tuscan hills differ considerably from each other. The so-called Strade del Vino (Wine Trails) have been specially created for sensitive tourists who love active holidays and want to explore the flavours of the region and its traditions: there are clearly marked signs for anyone who wants to explore the trail by car, motorbike, bicycle or on foot; the signs provide precise information about the road you are travelling on, the distances to various places of interest, descriptions of the features of the wines produced on each route, highlighting the cultural visits that can be made in the area, the available infrastructure and services, from wineries to holiday farmhouses and museums. There are currently 14 Wine Trails in Tuscany and they are located throughout the region: from the north, “Colli di Candia e di Lunigiana”, “Colline Lucchesi e Montecarlo”, “Montespertoli”, “Carmignano” (the so-called “strada medicea”),“Chianti Rùfina e Pomino”,“Chianti Colli Fiorentini”, “Colline Pisane”, “Terre di Arezzo”, “Vernaccia di San Gimignano”, “Monteregio di Massa Marittima”, “Montecucco”, “Nobile di Montepulciano”, “Costa degli Etruschi” and “Colli di Maremma”. Not all the names are particularly well-known but they conceal old traditions, high quality products and authentic itineraries.

The hills of the Maremma have a completely different appearance. This is the southernmost area of Tuscany and

Opposite page: hills near San Gimignano. This page, clockwise from the left: a field of sunflowers; countryside near San Quirico d’Orcia; sunset over the Bay of Baratti; countryside along the Monteregio Wine Trail in Massa Marittima; a cowherd in the Regional Park of the Maremma.

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coincides with the territory of Grosseto. The Maremma is a byword for wild nature, woodland and a lifestyle based on respect for the environment and wildlife which has found its ideal conditions here: the Maremma is as strong and rugged as its wild boars and as elegant and free as its horses. The area is protected by the Regional Park of the Maremma, one of the first Italian nature reserves, and, towards the sea, by the National park of the Tuscan Archipelago which includes the coast and the islands. Like the whole of Tuscany, the Maremma simply oozes history: the Castle of Montemassi, an imposing ruin with polygonal towers, built on a spur of rock which was probably already inhabited in antiquity with wooden huts and buildings; the monument provides testimony of the lesser and more important battles fought in the Maremma area for control of a region which was rich in timber and game. It is the same castle that is depicted in Guidoriccio da Fogliano, painted by Simone Martini in 1330, a large fresco in the Sala del Mappamondo in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena. Archaeology, art and history combine to provide the data required to reconstruct events. This is the case for every small town in the region.

Returning to the “yellowest” area of the Tuscan hills, the main protagonists are the abbeys: they include masterpieces of Romanesque architecture such as Sant’Antimo; just a stone’s

throw from Montalcino, the white-hooded monks, who still live in the structure and run its religious and accommodation facilities, can be seen walking among the capitals decorated with the typical faces and figures of the medieval bestiary and the imposing arches and columns made from warmly coloured stone. Another example is Monte Oliveto Maggiore, the fifteenth century abbey inhabited by Olivetan Benedictine monks who live in an enclosed order and, in accordance with tradition, produce different herbal medicines. The centre of the monastery is the cloister, a place that symbolises monastic life as a communion with God (there is no roof so that there is a sensation of direct contact with the sky) and the other brothers.

However, the most legendary of Tuscan monasteries is San Galgano, the majestic unroofed Cistercian abbey which was consecrated in 1288 in honour of Galgano, a local nobleman who converted to poverty. The building is surrounded by huge stretches of sunflowers. The nearby chapel, known as the “Rotonda di Montesiepi”, houses the “sword in the stone” which, according to tradition, was thrust into the stone by Galgano himself as a tangible symbol of his own conversion.

Many theories link the story of Galgano to that of King Arthur.

Once again, in the peace of the Tuscan countryside, history and legend go hand in hand.

Above from left to right: vineyards near San Gimignano; view of Volterra. Below: Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Opposite page: Abbey of San Galgano..

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Firenze: the many museums of a city-museum The first thing to do in Florence is to close your eyes: as you reopen them, you will find yourself walking through the Renaissance city in the company of Brunelleschi and Michelangelo, Donatello and Masaccio, all at work transforming the city into the true capital of the Renaissance. Churches, palaces, museums, bridges: art and history are the thread running through each street. Then you encounter Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch and this is where literature appears. In the city of Florence, culture is king!

The Uffizi Gallery, one of the most important museums in the world, houses the collection of the Medici family and is housed in a majestic building that resembles a sort of U-shaped corridor suspended in front of the river Arno; it was initially designed as a private walkway between the masterpieces of Renaissance painting. The Uffizi Gallery provides an excellent selection of Italian works of art between the fourteenth and sixteenth century: Giotto, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli (including the unmissable works Spring and the Birth of Venus), Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Leonardo da Vinci (the Annunciation), Michelangelo (the Tondo Doni or The Holy Family), Raphael, Andrea Mantegna, Correggio and Caravaggio. Other important parts of the gallery that are definitely worth seeing include the collections of German, Dutch and Flemish painters such as Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens.

From the panoramic terrace there is a splendid view over Piazza della Signoria and the historic centre of the city.

Piazza della Signoria has always been the civic centre of the city and is dominated by Palazzo Vecchio, a gothic fortress which is now the city hall, with the Arnolfo Tower, the 94-metre tower which is the symbol of the power of the Florentine Republic.

The other decorative features of the square include the Fountain of Neptune and the bronze statues of the Loggia dei Lanzi, in particular the statue of Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini.

Art lovers should definitely visit the Accademia Gallery, which houses the original version of Michelangelo’s David, the copy of which dominates Piazza della Signoria. The statue is the pride of Florence due to the sense of nobility and dignity which the young artist (he was only 26 years old at the time) managed to convey from one single block of marble: it is said that no one wanted to carve the block of stone measuring over 4 metres and known as “il gigante” (the giant). The gallery also features other incomplete works by Michelangelo known as “I Prigioni” (The Prisons).

This page, from the top: Brunelleschi’s Dome and Palazzo Vecchio.

Opposite page, from the top: Giotto’s bell tower and view of Florence with River Arno.

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Province: Florence Altitude: 50 m asl Inhabitants: 378.236 Tourist information: APT Firenze Via Cavour -Via Cavour, 1/r Tel. +39 055.290832 – 055.290833 www.firenzeturismo.it

The Florentine museum network also includes the Museo del Bargello where visitors can admire an unrivalled collection of the most important works of Renaissance sculpture, such as Donatello’s David. The Bargello was once a fortress-prison, and it is possible to visit the chapel which was reserved for the last prayers of prisoners who had been sentenced to death.

To reach the other large part of the museum network of Florence, it is necessary to cross the river Arno: here you come to Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence (1345), which used to be the location of butchers’ shops which were replaced, by order of Grand Duke Cosimo I, by the jeweller’s shops that still give the bridge its character today. It is the only bridge over the Arno to have survived the Second World War and the flood of 1966. The

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bridge is considered the most romantic place in Florence and there are no words to describe its incredible beauty at sunset.

By crossing the Arno, you come to Palazzo Pitti, the colossal residence of the Medici family which today houses as many as five museums (including the Palatine Gallery) as well as the Giardino di Boboli, Florence’s“museum”of plants and flowers.

Inquisitive visitors can also go in search of the city’s many small museums. They are incredibly diverse in nature. Each one has its own distinctive quality so that a tour of Florence’s museums never ceases to be a source of pleasant surprises!

To complete the visit, a walk around an outdoor museum – namely the historic centre - is an absolute must. If you look up in Piazza del Duomo, you will be astonished at the sight of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.

Besides the grandiose and majestic nature of the monuments, the really striking aspect is the elegance of the composition of the materials and colours of the structures. The cathedral is one of the largest churches in the world and is dominated by Brunelleschi’s dome, an impressive landmark which is visible from whichever direction you approach the city: as you climb you can take in a unique view. The bell tower, which is 85 metres high and has 414 steps, provides the best viewpoint of the city because it is the only place where you can admire the dome from close up. The third element of the complex, the Baptistery, is famous for its bronze panels, made by Ghiberti, which are so beautiful that they were called “the gates of paradise”.

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Versilia: trend-setting beaches If there is a fashionable side to Tuscany, this is Versilia. The strip of land in the province of Lucca takes its name from the river Versilia and in past times it used to be known as the “Fosse Papiriane”.

There is a historical part, made up of four municipalities which are situated in the mountainous area of the river, and there is also“contemporary Versilia”, the coastal riviera; its predominantly tourist appeal combines a huge, golden sandy beach with lively fashionable nightlife, featuring numerous night clubs and renowned discos overlooking the sea.

Lido di Camaiore offers a distinctively elegant walk along the seashore which stretches for more than 4 km, beside lidos, restaurants and shops until the brand new pier which is the perfect place to sip an aperitif; in an earlier age, D’Annunzio used to spend his holidays here with the actress Eleonora Duse, as did King Victor Emmanuel III, Puccini, Marconi and Mussolini, frequent guests at the villa of Senator Rolandi Ricci, now the Hotel Ariston. The town of Camaiore, whose lido is its seaside offshoot, extends up into the Apuan Alps and is perched on the

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hills of Seimiglia and the plain of Capezzano, famous for the production of strawberries and flowers.

Any mention of “Versilia” must inevitably include “Forte dei Marmi”. We are now entering historic Versilia (with Seravezza, Stazzema and Pietrasanta). The name derives from the small fort which stands in the centre of the town, built by Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the eighteenth century, and from the marble which came from the nearby quarries in the Alps and was shipped from here. There is an intriguing Museum of Satire and Caricature inside the fort. Forte dei Marmi is nowadays the holiday resort for politicians and sports and showbusiness personalities. The town has many clubs, discos and shops selling luxury goods, even though the main attraction is the beach with its extraordinarily fine golden sand and the beach huts overlooking the avenue of the seafront. The architecture includes villas designed by architects such as Gio Ponti and Giuseppe Pagano, historic villas that belonged to the leading families of Italian history such as the Agnellis, and the Capannina discotheque

which opened in 1929: this is the“Roma Imperiale”district which, since the tourist boom in the sixties, has represented “Versilia” in the collective imagination.

In the historic part of Versilia, visitors can admire Pietrasanta the “Small Athens” -, the meeting point of sculptors who came from all over the world to work marble and bronze. The numerous galleries give it the appearance of a miniature city of art, while the small streets of the old town contain important sculptures such as The Warrior by Fernando Botero. Seravezza gives its name to the two rivers Vezza and Serra, which join to form the river Versilia.

The town is dominated by the sixteenth century Medici Palace, which houses the Museo del Lavoro e delle Tradizioni Popolari della Versilia Storica (the Museum of Work and Folk Traditions in Historical Versilia). Lastly, there is Stazzema, the smallest and highest town in the area, the ideal base for setting off on trips on foot or bicycle.

Torre del Lago is the destination of opera lovers from all over the world. The town takes its name from the 15th century tower which overlooks Lake Massaciuccoli. Since 1938 Puccini has been added to its name in honour of the composer who lived in Torre del Lago and composed many of his works there: Torre del Lago Puccini is now the complete name of the town. The Puccini residence stands on the viewpoint of the lake and houses the composer’s tomb. The seafront of Torre del Lago is packed with tourists in summer due to the presence of discos and clubs on the beach of Lecciona.

Lastly, “Versilia” is also associated in people’s minds with “Viareggio”. The city, which overlooks the sea with 10 km of beach, of which 6 are occupied by lidos and 4 are freely accessible to the public, is the heart of Tuscan seaside tourism. The eclectic buildings in Art Nouveau and Art Déco styles give the centre and the promenade an elegant and sophisticated quality: the area is overlooked by the famous Teatro Politeama. Viareggio is also one of Italy’s most famous cities due to its Carnival: throughout the year it is possible to visit the Museo e la Cittadella del Carnevale (Carnival Museum and Citadel), with warehouses and workshops where the papier mâchè floats are made for the following year’s

procession. In the pine forests and woods of Ponente and Levante, there are numerous cycle paths and footpaths with sports facilities set in the woodland, just a stone’s throw away from the sea. Since late nineteenth century, when the Nettuno and Balena lidos were established, the“Pearl of the Tyrrhenian”offers a complete holiday experience: sea, countryside, fun and fashion.

Fiorentina: a brief history of a legend The “Bistecca alla Fiorentina” – the Florentine T-bone steak – has a long history. Its importance increased with the Medici family who, on the feast day of San Lorenzo on the 10th August, illuminated the city with enormous bonfires used to roast steaks which were then distributed amongst the city’s inhabitants. The story goes that there were English people present who referred to the meat as beef steak: this led to the Italianised term “bistecca”, which is obtained from cuts of the loin of Chianina breed bullocks. There is a T-shaped bone in the middle of the steak, hence the English name. The meat is hung for two weeks in a fridge and is then cooked on a fire stone or on the grill over charcoal made from oak, holm-oak or olivewood. The standard T-bone steak weighs about 1.5 kg.

On these pages: above, three views of the beaches of Versilia; on the left, a firework display in Viareggio.

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Isola d’Elba Legend has it that the Island of Elba and other islands in the Tuscan

Archipelago were created from the gems of Venus’ diadem which fell

into the sea. This was the reason for their beauty and led to the name of “Queens of the Tyrrhenian Sea”. One island and many small islands, which ancient peoples tried to conquer by fighting against the terrible shearwaters, the “talking birds” who were the incarnation of the tormented souls of sailors who had lost their lives at sea.

In antiquity, not even the most precise nautical maps could identify the presence and position of the numerous rocks around the isle of Elba.

The waves breaking against the rocks provide a unique spectacle of unbridled nature.

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A gem of

an island

THE ISLAND OF ELBA

A fragment of history surrounded by blue sea Elba is a minute piece of land in the middle of the sea with an eventful and turbulent history. The fate of the island has always been determined by two factors: its strategic position and the wealth of the minerals in its subsoil. As a consequence, it has often been fought over, a sought-after base from which the leading powers of the Mediterranean could control trade routes along the Italian coast. For the Etruscans the iron of Elba was a source of wealth and contributed to the prosperity of their civilisation.

Archaeologists have brought to light two incredibly rich patrician villas near the spa complex of the island: the Romans also appreciated Elba for its iron ore but especially for the healing properties of its thermal mud. During the Middle Ages Pisa gained control of the island which preserves the traces of Pisan rule in the form of defensive fortifications.

This was followed by the Renaissance signories and Cosimo I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, who built his Cosmopoli (now Portoferraio) on the ruins of the Roman Fabricia in 1548, providing it with strong defensive walls to protect the inhabitants from pirate raids.

Elba can be described as a fortified island. The Spanish, for example, after making their base at Porto Azzurro, built the seventeenth century Fort of San Giacomo. Now a prison, the fort enjoyed a privileged position and had such an imposing defensive structure that the English, Germans and French had to resort to military force to gain possession of it. Of all the historical events that befell it, the one that made the island famous was the brief period of exile of Napoleon, who stayed there for ten months (between 1814 and 1815) before returning secretly to Paris and regaining power. Napoleon was undoubtedly not treated as a prisoner, as he had been at Sant’Elena: at Elba, Bonaparte became king and there are still sumptuous Napoleonic residences which testify to this historical episode.

History, monuments and art have always been enclosed within 147 km of coastline and all types of beaches, ranging from low sandy beaches to small pebbly coves, from large expanses of black sand to stretches of white pebbles, and even beaches of granite.

Opposite page: a view of Portoferraio. Above: two views of the sea and a beach on the Island of Elba.

Elba’s uniqueness lies in the enormous variety of environments, from which it is possible to discover unexpected panoramic views. The most famous view point for scanning the horizon over the crystal clear waters of the Tyrrhenian sea is Mount Capanne, the highest point of the island (1019 metres). On clear days, it is possible to make out Corsica and some of the islands along the archipelago: Pianosa, Capraia, Montecristo and Gorgona. The slopes of Mount Capanne are covered in Mediterranean scrub and large granite boulders, beneath some of which several ancient settlements are hidden, while other boulders have been eroded by the wind, forming strange shapes that have earned the name “Stone monsters”. The whole landscape is dotted with beautiful wild orchids. To reach the summit of Mount Capanne, besides the numerous paths which are a paradise for enthusiastic trekkers and cyclists, there is also a two-seater cableway which leaves from Marciana and take visitors in just a few minutes to enjoy a unique 360 degree view stretching from the sky to the sea.

Elba is the largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago, made up of seven main islands (besides Elba, in order of size, Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Gorgona, and Giannutri), three minor islands (Palmaiola, Cerboli, the “Formiche di Grosseto”), sandbanks and reefs situated between the coast of Livorno and Corsica. The archipelago is surrounded by both the Ligurian Sea and the Tyrrhenian Sea, linked by the Channel of Piombino and the Channel of Corsica. The islands all share the “bright” sea, which is a favourite destination of scuba divers, an unspoilt vegetation as well as the opportunity to enjoy a holiday in stunning natural surroundings.

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One small island, many small towns In 1557 Cosimo I de’ Medici, while creating an imposing system of defences to protect the island from Turkish pirates, built Cosmopoli. The Falcone Fort and Stella Fort were constructed on the promontory while the Linguella Fort, together with the Martello Tower, were built in defence of the harbour, all of them linked by a fortified wall: it formed an invincible citadel! The town soon changed its name to Portoferraio, partly following the tradition of transporting iron. From being the outpost of the Medici grand duchy, it has now become the main tourist port of the island.

The island offers pleasant surprises, especially for visitors who imagine it merely as a place of sunshine, sea and beaches. The island, which extends for just 224 sq.km, is subdivided into eight municipalities which, until very recently, were extremely different from each other and so isolated that completely different tradi-

Tastes of distant lands A part of Elba’s fame stems from its wines which, in Roman times, led it to be known as Insula vini ferax (wine-rich island); in medieval times, its wines were served at the tables of the Popes while in the eighteenth century the island’s wines filled the holds of commercial vessels. Procanico, Sangioveto,’Elba Bianco and Elba Rosso are the classic high quality DOC wines; the island is also famous for dessert wines such as Ansonica Passita, Moscato and Aleatico. The island’s cuisine, which is equally distinctive, has been influenced by the presence of numerous cultural traditions: the schiaccia briaca is a cake which was originally made without alcohol (in accordance with the strictures of the Koran) and has pine nuts and sultanas, typically oriental ingredients.

The use of the sweet red Aleatico wine, an essential part of the current version of the cake, is a later nineteenth century addition, as are the walnuts, which are not grown on the island and were therefore extremely costly in the past.

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Province: Livorno Altitude: 4 m asl Inhabitants: 12 224 Tourist information: Azienda di Promozione Turistica Calata Italia, 26 - Tel. +39 0565 914671 www.turismo-elba.it

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tions, customs and economies emerged in each place. One example is the municipality of San Piero, whose economy was based exclusively on granite mining (there is a very interesting itinerary called “Vie del granito” – the granite trail), and the nearby municipality of Marciana, a picturesque place which has always been associated with the cultivation of chestnuts and timber and with sheep-farming. An even starker contrast exists between Rio, the mining town, Porto Azzurro, the power base under Spanish rule, and Portoferraio, the city-principality which welcomed Cosimo I de’ Medici and Napoleon. Nowadays, the differences between one town and another can only be observed in the customs, food and, in particular, in the local dialect.

Equally renowned is the town of Capoliveri, perched on a hill, now one of the most typical and active towns of Elba. It is a fascinating place with a rich history and linked to the other towns with a free shuttle service which encourages visitors to travel around according to the various events organised both during the day and the evening. Its distinctive feature is the classical architecture of the medieval town with narrow lanes and picturesque arches (known as “chiassi”), craft workshops and unpretentious restaurants where visitors can taste local dishes. Its name derives from the Latin term Caput Liberum,“sacred to Bacchus”: for millennia, the town has been associated with excellent grapes and excellent wine. Each year at the end of September, to celebrate the Festa dell’Uva (Grape and Wine Festival), the four districts of Fosso, Torre, Fortezza and Baluardo challenge each other by staging choreographies based on different themes of the grape harvest. The Festa dell’Innamorata (The Lovers’ Festival) is held on 14th July and is based on the old legend of two young lovers (Lorenzo and Maria), while the Festa del Cavatore (Miners’ festival) is held in early May and celebrates the old mining origins of the island.

Elba offers much more than just its beautiful seaside. It is an island really worth exploring with fascinating traditions that should be experienced to the full.

Wonders under the sea Opposite page: a view of Poggio, in the Commune of Marciana Marina. This page, above: the wreck of the Elviscot; the splendid sea depths of the island of Elba.

The seabed of Elba is home to an exhaustive “sample” of the immense natural heritage of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The numerous caves and numerous narrow passageways between the rocks provide stunning views. There is also fascinating submerged evidence of ancient maritime trade routes: it is not unusual to find fragments of ancient amphorae. There are also traces of the modern era on the seabed: for example, beyond the lighthouse of Portoferraio, 37 metres below the surface, lies the wreckage of a Junkers 52 plane of the German Luftwaffe, shot down on 9th September 1944; on the muddy seabed, around the wreck, it is possible to encounter large spiny lobsters, European lobsters and the sunfish. In the area of Punta Nasuto, visitors can enjoy an underwater itinerary that leads through large shoals of damselfish and reaches the base of the reef at a depth of about 42 metres. The view around these submerged islands is quite extraordinary: shoals of white sea bream and brown meagres within the deep fissures, conger eels peering out from the rocks and beautiful anthias. The reef also provides an incredibly rich barrier of coral!

The so-called“Formiche della Zanca”are one of the most beautiful areas for scuba diving off the northern coast of Elba: the name refers to a group of rocks that rise out of the water and whose most spectacular side faces Capraia, with high rocky spires and a deep gully inhabited by brown meagres. Below a depth of 45 metres, the fantastic seabed is covered by the sea fans of the red paramuricea clavata, which provides a stunning subject for photography together with the shoals of anthias and damselfish that move between its branches.

One of the areas that attracts many scuba divers to Elba lies just off Capo Fonza, in a splendid and easily identifiable sandbank which, at a depth of 40 metres, is characterised by fissures and small caves with lobsters, white sea bream and moray eels. The reefs of the Scogli dei Gemini, close to the western coast of Capo Calamita,

are slightly shallower but just as interesting. The dive involves a descent that follows the rocky seabed which, at a depth of 15-20 metres, creates intriguing hollows inhabited by a great number of bright yellow cluster anemones (parazoanthus axinellae). The lively colour, alongside the blue walls, can also be seen near to Punta Bianca where the reefs rise to only a few metres below the surface.

There are also small caves inhabited by hundreds of red prawns.

Moreover, in the cove of Portoferraio there is an islet with a varied seabed, while along the northern side of the island, the coastal waters often begin with stretches of boulders, patches of sand and sandy plains until, with the aid of flippers, divers can reach long reefs with a distinctive profile which drop down to a depth of about 50 metres. Among the rocks it is not unusual to spot a few groupers. Other areas of interest for scuba diving include Punta della Madonna, Capo Stella, Capo Caldo, Capo d’Enfola with the large rock known as Scoglio della Nave, and the large sandbank known as Secca del Careno which rises to up to 14-20 metres from the surface.

One of the few opportunities for scuba diving off Elba that does not require a boat is the dive to discover the“wreck of Pomonte”: resting on a detrital seabed, at a depth of 12 metres, is the hull of the ship Elviscot which sank in 1972 during heavy seas. Among the metal plates of the wreck, it is possible to spot conger eels, white sea bream and octopus amid the play of light that penetrates the ship’s portholes.

Elba is the perfect training ground for divers of all levels of ability and experience! In Campo nell’Elba, Marciana, Rio Marina, Capoliveri, Porto Azzurro, Marciana Marina and Portoferraio there are well-equipped scuba diving centres for anyone interested in exploring the marvels of Elba’s undersea world.

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Marche

The only region in Italy with a plural name: the Marche are in fact made up of many small Municipalities.

Small Communes characterized by

the presence of the Apennines which gently descend

towards the sea, an outlook onto the Adriatic which, further south, becomes deeper and is laced with interminable soft sandy beaches. Every corner of this region has a different look but they all share one aspect: beauty. A characteristic that has inspired some truly unforgettable masterpieces, executed by the famous names of Italian art and culture who have come from this region.

Nature

and culture:

a region’s

trademark

MARCHE 58

Living the good life, surrounded by history A land of great personalities, from Giacomo Leopardi and Raffaello, to Giovan Battista Pergolesi and Gioacchino Rossini, who were all born here. A land of art cities and historical hamlets, set between the hills, facing the sea and the valleys of the Apennines. A land of artworks of inestimable value, such as the masterpieces of Piero della Francesca, Raffaello, Lorenzo Lotto, Tiepolo, Giovanni Bellini, Rubens and Tiziano. A land of archaeological remains, crossed by the roads of the Ancient Rome as they wound their way towards the rest of the peninsula. A land of museums, libraries, theatres and castles, but also one of great religious faith, dotted with abbeys and monasteries.

The Marche, in fact, are an ancient region dating back thousands of years but, at the same time, one of great modernity and innovation, with an enduring sense of values and traditions from which to draw inspiration and creativity, which materialize in local craftsmanship and industry. The combination of culture and nature is the secret of an enviable lifestyle: it is no surprise, therefore, if the inhabitants of this region have the longest life expectancy in Italy!

Apart from preserving the past and its traditions, great attention is also focused on the environment: there are twelve protected areas, comprising two national parks (the Park of the Sibillini Mountains, the Gran Sasso Park and the Laga National Park), four regional parks (Mount Conero, Sasso Simone and Simoncello, Mount San Bartolo, Gola della Rossa and Frasassi) and six natural reserves, added to which there are over one hundred areas for the protection of wild flowers, fifteen “public” forests and over sixty centres for environmental education.

The Sibillini Mountains represent a bridge between a mythical past and the triumph of nature: the landscape of these calcareous mountains, over an altitude of 1700 metres, is a blaze of delightful martagon lilies, Eugenia’s pansies and edelweiss of the Apennines, and is still haunted by the magical presence of the Sibyl: a sorceress, so the story narrates, who was condemned to live in a cave high up in the mountain, for having turned against God. The latest expedition to explore the cavern which, according to the legend, has a tunnel leading to the centre of the earth, took place in 1953, then an attempt to widen the entrance provoked a landslide that sealed it forever, and the enigma of the Sibyl lies hidden in the heart of the mountain. Because of

Opposite page: Apennine landscape near Amandola. Above from the left: the famous Hill of Infinity which inspired Giacomo Leopardi; the ruins of the Roman theatre of Helvia Recina; view of the Sibillini Mountains.

this and other legends, the“Blue Mountains”, as Leopardi called them, continue to hold their mysterious charm: another story tells that the body of Pontius Pilate was dragged here by a herd of buffaloes and thrown into the waters of the lake which now bears his name. It is the only natural lake in the Marche, situated at an altitude of over 1800 metres. Here too, natural wonders go hand in hand with the rich fabric of history.

Speaking of natural wonders, Mount Conero immediately comes to mind with its high cliffs plunging into the sea. The Mediterranean maquis dominates the landscape which is covered with broom in spring and strawberry trees in Autumn. A paradise for birdwatchers. And for those who seek history and culture in a natural setting, looking out onto breathtaking seascapes, there is no shortage of prehistoric cave drawings, Roman caves, Benedictine and Franciscan abbeys and monasteries, as well as the Pini archaeological area with its Picene necropolis in Sirolo, defensive buildings such as Napoleonic Fort and Clementina Tower in Portonovo. Visitors are spoilt for choice. But beauty is a constant presence.

The exquisite pleasure of olives Before reaching maturity, they are immersed in a potassium hydroxide solution that eliminates their bitter flavour, before being washed several times and preserved in brine. This is the method used to prepare the most typical speciality of the Marche: olives “all’Ascolana”. After removing the stone with a spiral utensil, the cavity is filled with minced meat (or fish in the seaside version) which has been previously cooked and deglazed with white wine and herbs, to which spices, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and grated parmesan cheese are added. Then the olives, which are filled and patted back into shape, are then coated with breadcrumbs and fried. Pure bliss.

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Urbino, the Renaissance interpreted as a city Province: Pesaro - Urbino Altitude: 485 m asl Inhabitants: 15 627 Tourist information: Centro IAT Urbino piazza Rinascimento 1 Tel. +39 0722 2613 www.turismo.pesarourbino.it

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Today, the entire city of Urbino is a UNESCO human heritage site and, centuries ago, it was one of the capitals of the Renaissance. Its protagonist was Duke Frederick of Montefeltro, who commissioned the construction of the Duke’s Palace, a palatial dwelling that was one of the finest in Europe, and the symbol of this city. In ancient times the first inhabited areas were the valleys of the rivers Metauro and Foglia, which the Romans called Urvinum. Owing to its strategic position, it immediately became the object of dispute in the feudal age. This was when the house of Montefeltro appeared on the scene, along with Frederick, patron of the arts and originator of the artistic splendour of the dukedom: his palace became a “palace city”, where the most illustrious artists, philosophers, mathematicians and musicians lived and worked… Urbino is the “ideal city” and embodies the principles of Humanism and the Renaissance, continuing to expand until 1631, when it was taken over by the Pontifical State. The Duke’s Palace now houses the National Gallery of the Marche, which occupies all of the palace halls restored so far on the first two floors for a total of about 80 rooms displaying paintings on wood and canvas, frescoes, sculptures, inlay artworks, furniture, tapestries and drawings.

Next to the Duke’s Palace, in a decidedly different style, stands the Cathedral, reconstructed in a neoclassical style towards the end of the 18th century: it contains two masterpieces by Federico Barocci, the Last Supper and the Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian. Facing

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the eastern side of the Duke’s Palace there is an Egyptian obelisk dated 580 B.C., donated to the city in 1737 by Cardinal Albani (whose name has also been given to the Diocesan Museum). As we continue our trail through this harmonious medley of different ages, at just a short distance from here, we come across the gothic Church of Saint Dominick, with its elegant Renaissance portal. Urbino was the birthplace of Raffaello Sanzio and in Via Raffaello it is possible to see the 16th century home of the artist, now a house museum in which the Madonna and Child fresco is preserved, also thought to be his work. Also dedicated to Raffaello is the monument standing at the end of the street, a tribute by the city to one of the icons of Italian art in the world.

The fourteenth century Albornoz Fortress is the highest point in the city and provides a charming location, in summer months, for numerous concerts of contemporary music.

At a short distance from the houses in the city centre, the mausoleum of Frederick of Montefeltro stands guard over the city (the Church of San Bernardino degli Zoccolanti), so that what he conceived as the most fascinating art laboratory in the Peninsula might never forget its origins and its lofty ambition. He certainly looks down with a smile, seeing the most prestigious art city of the Marche excel in culture and above all, in the warm hospitality it offers to tourists. It really is the ideal city.

Above: the Duke’s Palace of Urbino and, in the background, the Cathedral dome.

On the left: view of the town.

Velvety beaches The coastline of the Marche region looks onto the Adriatic sea for over 180 kilometres, with more than 15 well organized seaside resorts, ten ports and harbours (comprising Ancona, which is one of the most important seaports of Italy, and nine tourist marinas) and as many as 16 Blue Flag locations, an international award conferred by the “Foundation for Environmental Education” (FEE) certifying the quality of the local seawater and services.

At this point, and with the assurance that whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong, you just have to decide between fine sandy beaches, pebble coves, rocks or palms. In brief, which “Riviera” will you choose to spend a relaxing and enjoyable holiday on? The Riviera delle Colline, for instance, is one long sandy beach interrupted by a headland in the proximity of the pretty resort, Gabicce Mare, and presents brief stretches of pebbly beaches and deep water. Gabicce extends over two levels: the lower part, positioned on the gulf, is surrounded by vegetation, while the upper part of town is perched above the sea and ideal for an evening out with its nightclubs and characteristic restaurants (owing to its position it is called Gabicce Monte).

The more romantically inclined must visit the harbour of Baia Vallugola and the Castle of Gradara, a scenario of magical atmospheres and events of times gone by (the castle “of the lovers” Paolo and Francesca, narrated by Dante Alighieri). Pesaro and Fano are also well worth a visit and are linked by a

beautiful scenic road, not forgetting Marotta di Mondolfo, a seaside resort with its ancient medieval village.

When on the Riviera di Velluto around Ancona, Falconara Marittima, but particularly Senigallia are the ideal spots for those seeking fine white sandy beaches, broken only by piers and the picturesque Rotonda a Mare, a circular sea terrace. 13 kilometres of coastline with a rich offering of accommodation facilities dominated by the Rocca Roveresca, just a few steps away from the old town centre.

The Riviera del Conero, on the other hand, has a completely different aura with Portonovo, Sirolo and the two locations of Numana: the atmosphere in Numana Alta is a moving one, owing to its position perched high above the sea and the existence of little beaches sheltering between the cliffs, while Numana Bassa, also called Marcelli, offers a more dynamic seaside holiday, with its pebbly coastline and a plentiful offering of accommodation and entertainment. From Numana, it is possible to take a boat and reach the more intimate beaches, exploiting this resort’s vocation as a natural harbour, a feature the ancient Piceni had already identified as the strong point of this place (archaeological remains of this ancient civilization are exhibited in the Numana State Antiquarium).

The Riviera of Macerata is set in the natural greenery of its pinewoods: Porto Recanati, the “drawing room of the Riviera”, is a modern seaside resort that successfully cohabits with the charming and picturesque corners of the old seafaring village, which developed around the fifteenth century Svevo Castle; Civitanova Marche rises on the remains of the Roman settlement Cluana and, as well as its seaside, offers the possibility to shop in the many outlets of the best fashion designers.

This leaves us with the green Riviera Picena, which rotates around Porto Sant’Elpidio, Lido di Fermo and Porto San Giorgio, and the exotic Riviera delle Palme, where as many as 7,000 palm trees are the leitmotiv of the numerous resorts in this area, the most important of which is San Benedetto del Tronto, very popular with the nineteenth century nobility, who added a note of elegance to the long white beach by erecting a great number of holiday homes in art nouveau style.

Above: the beach of Numana. On the left: the beach of Sirolo.

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Lazio

An ancient land that represents the true cradle of Italian civilization.

While Rome, with its international fame and prestige, is certainly the

most important destination for tourists from all over the world, it should not be overlooked that

there are other locations in Latium of great interest: from the Etruscan necropolises excavated in tufa stone to the numerous Roman archaeological sites, as well as a succession of buildings, villas, castles and monuments of different ages that have been accumulated down through the centuries to create a harmonious bridge between past and present. Just like the countless village festivals that manage to create an atmosphere of ancient folklore for our present-day enjoyment.

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Set between

ancient splendour and modern gems

LATIUM

Opposite page: a stretch of the Via Appia Antica. This page, clockwise: remains of the Roman aqueduct of Tarquinia; a view of the Imperial Forums in Rome; Piazza del Popolo in Latina.

In the cradle of the empire The native land of the Latini, Etruscans and Romans, Latium reveals the signs of a magnificent past in each corner of its territory. The most northern part of the region around Viterbo is called Tuscia, which is pure Etruscan; the area close to the borders of Umbria, Marche and Abruzzo is Sabina, which extends from the banks of the Tiber to the homonymous hills of the Central Apennine chain, in the province of Rieti; finally, the Circeo is a promontory before which lie the Pontine islands and comprises the area extending to the Alban mounts, in the province of Latina. To the south of Rome, you will encounter the Ciociaria, which takes its name from the traditional footwear called ciocie and includes the area of Frosinone. These few elements would suffice to trace a sufficiently ancient and vivid picture to show how coveted this area has always been. An account of the mythical foundation of Rome will even lead to digressions into the world of legends and epic storytelling, such as when the profile of the sorceress Circe, the enchantress of Ulysses in the Odyssey, is recognizable in the morphology of the homonymous headland (the Circeo), or when narrating the story of Aeneas, the protagonist of the Aeneid who, fleeing from the city of Troy, reaches Latium and marries Lavinia, daughter of the local king Latinus. Romulus and Remus, the she-wolf, the countless mythological tales: everything has contributed to creating

an atmosphere of mystery and legend around the territory of Latium. But it is not all imagination and literature: in Latium, as perhaps in no other place, archaeological evidence transforms everything into something more tangible. All the most important roads in Italy started out from Rome (in 44 B.C. Caesar was the first ever to recruit geographers to draw up maps of all existing roads), passed through Latium and continued their course along the Peninsula to unite cities in a way that responded to a set of precise criteria. It is still possible to travel down many of these roads today, such as via Amerina in Corchiano, via Cassia Antica in Campagnano, via della Pineta della Campana in Nettuno, or via Sacra in Rocca di Papa, a beautiful paved road that used to lead to the top of Monte Cavo, where the Temple of Jupiter used to stand, an important sanctuary of the Latini and other populations of South Latium. Another treasure of Latium are its necropolises, excavated in the rock in the past and decorated with incredible sumptuousness. For instance, the necropolis of Tarquinia extends for about 750 hectares with its 200 chamber tombs characterised by painted decorations, testifying to the evolution of the Etruscan civilization from the VII to the III century B.C. And this is the rich cultural breeding ground on which the Roman Empire was based and was to evolve later, an empire which became “official” under Augustus and was destined to undergo a transformation in the course of time, leaving traces of its passage in every subsequent age, up until the present day. An empire that revolved constantly around its capital. An empire that made enormous efforts to “Romanize” the lands it conquered and which grew excessively to the point of crumbling under the blows inflicted by younger and more vital kingdoms. An empire that suffered from the presence of Christianity (today the Pope’s seat is in the Vatican City, in the very heart of Rome). An empire that has fired the imagination of the populations and powerful figures of every age, as in the case of the Fascist regime, which set out to recover the rituals and symbols of Ancient Rome to consecrate its own power. To imitate the expansionistic exploits of his valorous ancestors, Mussolini guided the “conquest” of Ethiopia and the foundation of new towns on the Italian soil: a perfect example is provided by Latina, the most important town created during the fascist era (1932), built around Piazza del Popolo and Piazza della Libertà, so unique in fact that it is a candidate for UNESCO heritage listing.

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Rome caput mundi Nothing could be closer to the truth: Rome is a hub of history, art and culture. A cosmopolitan city which is not only the capital of the Italian Republic, but also one of the most fascinating places on earth. It is difficult to attempt a description of this city in a few lines since it represents layer upon layer of different ages, monuments and opportunities that defy definition. A visit to Rome may follow a thousand different themes and leitmotifs: there is the traditional tourist trail, recommended for those on their first visit with only a limited amount of time, which leads to the Colosseum (or rather the Flavian Amphitheatre), the Imperial Forums, the Altar of the Homeland (or Vittoriano), the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps. Without forgetting to stop off at St. Peter’s Square in the Vatican City to visit the famous Basilica.

But there are plenty of minor curiosities to explore in the city: you can go for a tour of the seven hills, Capitolino, Aventino, Palatino, Viminale, Esquilino, Celio and Quirinale, to find out what remains of the legend. Or it is possible to go round the seven churches and early Christian relics, including a visit to the fascinating catacombs. Or why not follow the course of the River Tiber, and experience the surprise of a close-up view of the majestic Castel Sant’Angelo and the precious little jewel of imperial Roman art, the Ara Pacis.

Without forgetting a tour of the ruins. The discovery of Ancient Rome, in fact, is the only way to understand its proportions, dimensions and power: when you observe the Baths of Caracalla in their magnificence or you walk down the Appia Antica, which never seems to end, under the shade of its cluster pines, or when you consider that a whole stadium lies beneath Piazza Navona... you fully grasp the fact that you

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Province: Rome Altitude: 21 m asl Inhabitants: 2 786 034 Tourist information: PIT Punto Informazioni Turistiche r Termini Railway Station - Via G. Giolitti 34, Int. building F – platform 24 r Fori - Via dei Fori Imperiali r Navona - Piazza delle Cinque Lune Contact Center 060608 www.turismoroma.it 64

are in a truly historical capital city. A city in which Augustus could erect incredible constructions on the Palatino and Nero could build palaces like the Domus Aurea. Without forgetting the imperial Forums, a truly amazing and fascinating revelation once you grasp the concept of their organization.

At just a short distance from the Forums, you can set off on a tour of ministries and the most important institutional buildings: the changing of the guard at the Quirinale, a civil marriage ceremony at the Campidoglio, the comings and goings of the authorities under the Column of Marcus Aurelius in front of Palazzo Chigi, are all events that attract a crowd!

Not to mention the tour of Rome’s artworks, which would take more than one lifetime to complete: from Caravaggio’s paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi to the works of the Capitolini Museums and the Borghese Gallery, to end up with the inestimable wealth of the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel, to mention but a few.

A visit to the cinema locations of Rome can be an innovative and extremely interesting experience: in the film studios of Cinecittà it is possible to admire the reconstructions of the great films sets or the amazing set of Ancient Rome (used for television serials, films and documentaries of all kinds) and find out more about great Italian film stars, also by examining their props. The gallery dedicated to Alberto Sordi, one of the most world-famous Roman actors, is particularly significant.

This list could go on forever with various theme suggestions.

What never disappoints visitors, however, is the theme trail focused on getting to know the old Roman quarters: from Trastevere to Testaccio and Campo dei Fiori. What could be more authentic than enjoying a dish of Amatriciana, Carbonara or some saltimbocca, with your heart filled with love for the eternal city and all it has to offer, wherever you happen to look.

Castles, hills and flower festivals “Ma che ‘cce frega, ma che ‘cce ‘mporta” is a song that has gone around the world. It may also be considered a dedication to the Castles, that particular territory dotted with medieval villages, charming little towns, ancient hamlets, stately mansions, castles and archaeological remains extending over an area lying to the south east of Rome. The landscape and natural environment are protected by the Regional Park of the Roman Castles, extending over the Alban Hills, which used to be an area frequented by the capital’s noble families and popes for their vacations, with about 9,500 hectares of protected land, covered by a thick network of country paths inhabited by badgers, martens, peregrine falcons, porcupines and wolves. Of the many trails extending between the sixteen municipalities making up this area, the most well-known is the one starting out from Lanuvio, a village close to Velletri, surrounded by fortified walls where, once inside, visitors feel as though they have entered another dimension, to be catapulted into the Middle Ages, owing to the perfect preservation of its ancient buildings. These include the X century medieval Tower, which houses the municipal wine cellar, the ideal place in which to taste the fine DOC wines of the Castles. From here, a panoramic road leads to Genzano, a little town on the via Appia located on the crater of Lake Nemi. The houses here are constructed in a curious radial pattern over the hill: of its streets, the most important are the three roads that were constructed in the 17th century and which make up the so-called “Baroque trident”.

From Genzano, you can go on to visit Ariccia, where Palazzo Chigi represents one of the finest examples of European Baroque, with its original furnishings still intact, portraits of the female personages of this family and an extremely precious printed leather used as a wall covering. When in Ariccia, you have to taste its famous spit-roasted pork! Now it is time to set off for Albano Laziale, which rises on the volcanic hills whose name it has adopted and which faces the homonymous lake: here it is possible to pay a very interesting visit to the “Cisternone”, an underground cistern constructed by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus and which still supplies its waters to an operative aqueduct today. This Roman town used to have its own amphitheatre on the hill and it is possible to admire a large tomb in tufa stone which is said to be that of the legendary Horatii and Curiatii, as well as the fascinating catacombs of San Senatore (one of the largest underground cemeteries known to man).

The last stopover is Castelgandolfo, which has always been the Popes’ summer residence, and is the 17th century makeover of

Opposite page: Rome, the Colosseum. Above: the residential area of Castel Gandolfo on Lake Albano.

the Savelli Family’s castle in the Papal Palace: inside, it houses the Vatican astronomical observatory (“Specola Vaticana”), one of the most important of its kind today. Here too, everything comprising archaeological remains and fine construction work, such as the Church of Saint Thomas of Villanova, was signed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The long list of locations well worth visiting could go on to include Frascati, Grottaferrata, Monte Porzio Catone, Rocca di Papa, Marino and so on.

The municipalities populating the area of Latium which now offers the greatest number of events come to life with their profane grape festivals and the religious “flower festivals” known as “infiorate”: the most ancient one in the world is that of Genzano which takes place on the day of Corpus Domini (the first one dates back to 1778). That of the flower festivals is an ancient tradition demanding the participation of master “infioratori” to compose enormous floral pavement mosaics representing artworks, documents and sacred images, all made from the petals of any type of flower. All of the 86 Municipalities of Latium engaged in flower festivals between April and May offer an amazing show and an elegant blaze of colours.

Every town and village has its own version of porchetta The inhabitants of Ariccia claim it as their own, on the grounds that it dates back to Etruscan times. There are two basic ways of seasoning this meat: in the area of the Roman Castles, where it is eaten with the bread of Genzano in venues called “fraschette”, it is seasoned with rosemary; so much so, in fact, that in Ariccia it is referred to as: “la porca co’ un bosco de rosmarino in de’ la panza” (pork with a rosemary bush in its belly). In Upper Latium, on the other hand, it is seasoned with wild fennel: this typical spit-roasted pork can be enjoyed in Vignanello and Vallerano, in the Tuscia area around Viterbo. In Poggio Bustone it has been celebrated for the last 60 years in a festival held on the first Sunday in October, the feast day of the Madonna and Saint Francis.

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Abruzzo An Adriatic coast which starts to

jag. Resorts made for families, not

too mundane nor too isolated, full of history, like Vasto and Francavilla

al Mare. But also promontories that are reflected in the sea, such as the Promontorio del Turchino (named after the colour of the water from the deep hues, on the coast of San Vito Chietino) and Punta Penna, which has a tower overlooking the port basin and with a balcony from which you can enjoy a wide panorama that goes from Gargano to Ortona.

Immediately beside the lush wild mountain with its protected parks and the rare animal species that inhabit them. Abruzzo is the ideal destination for a holiday fully immersed in nature.

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The spectacle of nature

ABRUZZO

Green for all tastes Three national parks (Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, the Majella, and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga), a regional park (Sirente Velino) and around fifty protected areas, nature reserves and territorial parks. And then there are numerous lakes with their individual ecosystems ... Nature in Abruzzo, dominates unchallenged. It must be discovered with curiosity and respect, with all those means for an active holiday that are ideal to explore the region: on foot, by bicycle, on horseback. For cycling tourists, the numerous parks offer a rare opportunity to move from the sea to the highest peaks of the Apennines in a few tens of kilometres. In fact, there are many routes along the coast or on the rugged mountains, on the hills or on the edges of impressive ravines, around the lakes or along the green banks of the rivers, among the beech forests or on the highlands, in short for bikers of all levels and with routes of varying difficulty.

While pedalling along the many dirt roads or carrarecce with little traffic (used only by shepherds or loggers) it is not difficult to see Romanesque churches, hidden hermitages, ancient stone huts, medieval castles and charming villages that speak of the discreet and deep history of this region, but are not included in the traditional tourist routes: small realities of the past, nestled harmoniously in a wild and relaxing setting.

Widespread for some years now in many parks and the so called “Abruzzo bridleways” is equestrian tourism: the horse is without a doubt the best way to introduce yourself into this environment. Running over meadows, through woods, moving alongside rivers or lakes is indeed a thrilling experience riding with a companion of adventure who knows how to move in harmony with the rhythms of the other inhabitants of these green places, the many animals that make Abruzzo unique.

And then you will discover hidden places unreachable by car or motor vehicles. In 2006 the Ippovia del Gran Sasso was born, the longest horse riding circuit in Italy, which runs through the park of the same name across the province of L’Aquila, Pescara and Teramo with a distance of 320 Km traced and signalled route along mule-tracks, trails and mountain roads. Along the route there are equipped rest areas with shelters for horses and travellers. With numerous equestrian centres where you can “rent” a horse and an instructor, for a holiday in complete safety even for those who are beginners.

For lovers of trekking, however, each park offers hiking trails equipped for any type of accessibility: children, the disabled, as well as simple tourists who want to hike in nature but are not trained. The National Park of Majella has completed a series of trails of varying difficulty: the path of the Grotta Zappano, for example, in the western part of the park, to Lama Bianca Sant’Eufemia, consisting of a walk of about 30 minutes, with equipped picnic areas. The so-called Sentiero del Parco, however, is the most comprehensive but also the most challenging due to the 78 km linking Percocostanzo and Popoli touching the main peaks, including Monte Amaro (the highest at 2793 meters above sea level) and the northern part of Morrone. A route that really winds its way into the wilderness, passing through only one town (Caramanico) and very few equipped refreshment points. But one itinerary that offers a unique experience, crossing woods, pastures, crops, but also the so-called “macereti” (rubble) of high altitude and with a lunar-looking appearance and the most natural and undisturbed flora and fauna population in Italy.

Opposite page: a group of chamois. Above from the left: a composition of sugar-coated almonds from Sulmona; the church of Madonna delle Grazie in Teramo; landscape in the National Park of Majella. Below: the coastline of Vasto.

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Chieti The “Italian wonder” which is the stuff of legends Province: Chieti Altitude: 330 m asl Inhabitants: 53,937 Tourist information: Abruzzo Promozione Turismo – Chieti Via Spaventa, 47 Tel. +39 0871 63640 www.abruzzoturismo.it

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The history of Chieti takes us back a long time, even into mythology: according to legend the town was founded in 1181 BC by the hero Achilles, who called it Teate in honour of his mother, the goddess Thetis. It is not surprising that the city’s inhabitants today are called Theatines and that the Homeric hero is represented in the coat of arms on a prancing horse, while holding a spear and a shield on which is depicted a white cross on a red field with four keys, representing the four gates into medieval Chieti (Porta Sant’Anna, Porta Santa Maria, Porta Napoli and Porta Pescara). Legends about the origin of the city actually differ; what is certain is that the city was the capital of the warlike people of the Marrucini, famous for their fierce fighting with the Romans, to whom they surrendered and with whom they formed an alliance in many battles (e.g. against Pyrrhus, Hannibal and the Cisalpine Gauls).

This ancient history is still to be seen in the city, where Roman

Above: the Cathedral of Chieti.

remains co-exist with those of the Angevins and the Aragoneses, who transformed the face of the town in a period of great development. The city also boasts an entire underground city which was the former Teate, just below the present city centre, and which can visited on rare and precious occasions. The city’s main street, Corso Marrucino, which starts from Piazza Trento e Trieste (commonly known as piazza Trinità) and ends at Arniense Street, in the heart of the historic centre. On this street there are now numerous offices, moved here as a result of the damage sustained by their historic premises in other areas of the city during the L’Aquila earthquake of 6 April 2009. In the neoclassical villa whose construction was requested by Baron Frigerj and later donated to the municipality, tourists can not miss the National Archaeological Museum of Abruzzo, with a huge garden of old trees, populated by fountains, terracings with panoramic views of the city and toward Mount Majella, typical Italian garden hedges and small forests with illuminated lakes, walkways and stone bridges. At the centre there is piazzale Mazzini with a monumental fountain: an elegant and sophisticated complex which has earned the town the recognition of “Italian Wonder” by the National Youth Forum, a partner of the Presidency of the Council of Ministers, the European Youth Forum and the National Agency for young people.

L’Aquila, which does not give in The magnificent city of L’Aquila is still a ghost town after the earthquake of 2009. The monuments damaged by the earthquake, in the silence of the historic centre that is still inaccessible, tell the story of the medieval splendour, papal influence, Spanish domination: the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio with the Holy Door of Pope Celestine V, the fifteenth-century Basilica di San Bernardino, the Spanish Fort and the Fountain of 99 jets with its stone masks and the unknown origins of the water, whose source is not known.

A city of art that is suffering, but animated by the good humour and courage of the people of L’Aquila, who, like everyone, expect to see their homes, the centre and its wonders live again.

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On the trail of the wolf and the bear A symbol of the Abruzzo, Latim and Molise National Park, the Marsican Brown Bear (Ursus arctos marsicanus) is a subspecies that is genetically differentiated from bears in the Alps and only live in central Italy. The latest research estimates that in the park and surrounding areas there is a population of about 55-60 representatives of the species. It is very difficult to find these specimens, which are between 100 and 150 kg (females are slightly smaller) with a length which ranges from a metre and a half to well over 2 metres. Each specimen can live for more than twenty years in the forests of Abruzzo, where they find peace and food, but also move to the highest-altitude grasslands in different seasons, looking for a dry and safe place to spend the winter months: the bear, in fact, when the cold arrives falls into a partial lethargy, that allows it to cope with low temperatures and the absence of food, but also to exit the lair on sunny days.

Another important species, but not exclusive to the Abruzzo National Park, is the Apennine Wolf (Canis lupus lupus), one of the most persecuted animals and severely threatened with extinction. It can live alone or in small packs, hierarchi-

cally organized, and moves continuously showing great skill in escaping hidden dangers as well as seeking its prey which are mostly small animals, in the mild season, and ungulates during winter. The wolf is also a very difficult animal to spot: with mainly nocturnal habits, during the day it takes refuge in the most wild and inaccessible parts of the forest.

The signs of its presence that are the easiest to find in the territory are the tracks which are very similar to those of a large dog, but arranged in a single row. Among the fauna of the Park we certainly must not forget the native Abruzzo Chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata), with about 700 specimens in the Park. It is by far the easiest protected animal to come across, and must be observed in total silence to avoid it from becoming frightened and fleeing. It is a herbivore, common in grasslands at high altitudes, which descends the valley and enters the woods in winter. In the Park it lives in the Camosciara mountains (the name of the place is reminiscent of the animal population), on Monte Meta, Mainarde, Monte Amaro, Monte Marsicano and the mountains that surround the Canneto valley. The same for the deer (Cervus elaphus hippelaphus) and the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) almost completely disappeared from the park until the Seventies, when they were reintroduced.

To better enjoy the experience of observing these animals, Visitor Centres are open to the public and are almost always combined with wildlife areas, areas of fenced land in which the animals live in a state of semi-freedom. The main function of these areas is scientific, but they also have an important educational role: here it is possible to see those species that would be difficult to see in the wild, without disturbing them. These areas include the Pescasseroli wildlife park, the wildlife areas of the wolf and lynx in Civitella Alfedena, the wildlife areas of the bear in Villavallelonga and Campoli Appenninico, those of the deer in Lecce dei Marsi and Scanno and that of the chamois in Opi.

Above: an Apennine wolf. On the left: a Marsican brown bear.

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Campania

The ancient Romans gave the name Campania Felix to the prosperous area of the city of Capua and the

neighbouring municipalities, which extends from Monte Massico to the Phlegraean Fields. Today, the area around the city of Naples, Caserta, Benevento, Avellino and Salerno, still looks like an area extremely rich in culture, the raw material which in the course of history, from then until the present day, has never abandoned this coast on the Tyrrhenian Sea. A culture that combines in a harmonious and lively way with the wonders of nature: the Amalfi Coast, Cilento and the many other places to discover!

The wonderful treasures of

a Terra Felix

CAMPANIA

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Opposite page: Castel dell’Ovo and the small harbour of Santa Lucia, in Naples. This page, clockwise from the left: Vesuvius; a bay along the Amalfi Coast; a street in Pompeii.

In the shadow of Vesuvius, a past and present on the seashore The city of Naples, according to the legend was founded by a Greek girl named Parthenope, and is undoubtedly an extraordinary balcony over the gulf that bears its name. A gulf and a coastline that offer tourists archaeological sites all over the territory, spas on the island of Ischia, in Castellammare di Stabia or on the Phlegrean coast, but also wild nature parks (Vesuvius and Astroni), the glamour of Capri and its little square, underwater archaeological sites such as Baia and Gaiola and the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Cultural tourism coexists with beach tourism: bays, coves and isolated beaches, but also private sailing and cruise ships!

Vesuvius keeps a silent vigil over this landscape, mindful of the destruction in 79 AD which led it to the elimination, with its eruption, of the towns of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia, today archaeological sites (UNESCO heritage) unique in the world due to the extraordinary conservation of the finds and of the structures immobilised by the eruptive force in the last dramatic hours of their life. To add to the cultural weight of these areas, Campania by the sea has the good food of the Mediterranean tradition, the friendliness, the warmth and kindness of the people, to complete a classic “Italian style” holiday.

Going north, the province of Caserta is ideally divided into three big areas by the great cultural, folklore and especially morphological variety: mountain massifs such as the Matese or the Preapennines alternate with the plains, overlooking the sea in Litorale Domizio, so named because of the Via Domitiana that ran through the area at the time of the ancient

Romans. These 45 kilometres of wide and sandy coast are covered with a varied Mediterranean vegetation that creates beautiful ecosystems. To join the sea, culture and art, a must is a visit to the Reggia di Caserta, the nineteenth-century historical residence of the royal house of Bourbon (now included on the UNESCO heritage list), surrounded by a large park divided into an Italian garden, with its many fountains among which the famous Grande Cascata, and an English garden with thick woods and a less regular appearance. Called “the last Baroque building in Italy”, it is home to the Appartamenti Vecchi (Old Apartments), the Appartamenti Nuovi (New Apartments), all furnished with original furniture, and the precious Quadreria.

Going down the coast south of Naples, the area around Salerno is an authentic place of beautiful landscapes (from Cilento to Vallo di Diano), tasty food and wine tours, yet unique archaeological sites (Paestum, for example) and the famous Costiera Amalfitana, a stretch of coast, also known as “Divina Costiera” (Divine Coast), a popular area for international beach tourism. Also the Costiera, with Amalfi, Atrani, Cetara, Conca de Marini, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Praiano, Ravello, Scala, Tramonti and Vietri sul Mare belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites: you can not miss the staircase of the spectacular Amalfi Cathedral, a walk through the colourful streets and clothes shops of Positano with the new Auditorium designed in 2012 by the late Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer.

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Naples, a concentration of culture, sea and energy

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Province: Naples Altitude: 17 m asl Inhabitants: 957 012 Tourist information Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno, Cura e Turismo r Via San Carlo, 9 - Tel. +39 081 402394 r Piazza del Gesù - Tel. +39 081 5512701 - www.inaples.it

Above: Piazza del Plebiscito with the church of San Francesco di Paola.

Capital of the Bourbon Kingdom, one of the largest historical centres among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, home of the pizza: Naples is not only a metropolis, but also one of the centres with the highest density of monuments in Italy and one of the largest reserves of popular traditions.

To discover it you can follow the historical trail, moving around the town in the footsteps of the Greeks and Romans (the Greek walls of Piazza Cavour, the ancient theatre on via dell’Anticaglia, just off the bustling Via Duomo, the “Palazzo di Nerone” decorated with the application of Roman remains, the paleochristian basilica and baptistery of Santa Restituta, now incorporated into the Cathedral, the Greek agorà and then the Roman forum of Neapolis in Piazza San Gaetano, the excavations under San Lorenzo Maggiore, the Greek walls in Piazza Bellini that ended in the current Piazza San Domenico, dominated by the central spire, and in piazza Trianon) or following the traces of the Middle Ages (from 1266, Charles I of Anjou made Naples the capital of his kingdom, bringing to the city the artistic influences of French Gothic, as in the chapel of San Gennaro, or the spire of Santa Maria Maggiore) or following the ideals of the Renaissance or still discovering the signs of the Baroque and Rococò (Spanish rule in Naples gave it its current face, like the silver statues of the Treasure of San Gennaro in the Cathedral, the exuberant character of the Neapolitan Baroque, while the anti-Baroque Austrian rule brought the “gooseneck” stairs, large tiled floors and nativity shepherds, of marked rococo style).

Anyone who loves the past and literature can go up the hill that separates Mergellina from Fuorigrotta, next to the ancient tuff caves: here visitors can admire the tomb of Virgil, enriched with Roman inscriptions dated 1930, and the tomb of the poet Giacomo Leopardi, who died in Naples in 1837.

Or you can experience Naples as a tourist, to marvel at the most famous places: Piazza del Plebiscito, Palazzo Reale,

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Castel dell’Ovo and the Maschio Angioino, the Teatro San Carlo, the Cathedral with the relics of San Gennaro and the Cloister of Santa Chiara.

Some people like to “live” Naples and exploring the neighbourhoods is the best way to get into the everyday life of the city: Spaccanapoli, via San Gregorio Armeno (with the workshops of traditional nativity scenes open all year round), the promenade of via Caracciolo.

Finally, just a few kilometres out of the city you can reach the gardens and the Reggia di Capodimonte, with the homonymous National Gallery and the eighteenth-century “Royal Porcelain Factory” which produced the famous ceramics prized pieces branded with the Bourbon lily.

Neapolitan tradition at the table A typical Neapolitan dessert for the Easter period, but now available all year round, the pastiera is a cake of crispy shortcrust pastry stuffed with soft ricotta, candied fruit, sugar, eggs and wheat boiled in milk.

The smell and flavour change depending on the spices and aromas: the classics are cinnamon, orange peel and vanilla.

According to the legend, the siren Partenope was exceptional at cooking this delicacy and perhaps has its origins in pagan offerings: the priestesses of Ceres, in particular, carried eggs in procession, a symbol of birth.

Islands of beauty and wellbeing The island of Capri is an essential stage for summer holidays in Campania. The jewel of the Gulf of Naples, in fact, has a unique beauty that has inspired and continues to inspire artists, film directors and poets: the deep green of the lush natural surroundings envelops the steep cliffs overlooking the crystal clear sea, flowing into beautiful caves, dominated by mighty cliffs and coloured by olive, orange and lemon tree groves. Among the caves, the Grotta Azzurra is undoubtedly best known for the different colours taken by its walls and its water during the day. La Piazzetta is the ultimate in sophistication.

If you want to add an element of relaxation and well-being to a beach vacation, you just have to move from Capri to Ischia, a large island with wide sandy beaches that leave space for isolated cliffs and lesser known beaches, accessible only by sea. Its volcanic nature makes Ischia one of the largest spa centres in Europe: there are springs, fumaroles and mud throughout the territory, such that almost every accommodation structure has at least one thermal pool. The island also offers equipped and skilled centres, centres of scientific research on the benefits of thermal waters and sophisticated technology for any type of therapy.

Ischia’s thermal waters are alkaline, containing sulphur, iodine, chlorine, iron, potassium and trace elements of active sub-

Above: the famous Piazzetta in Capri. Below from left to right: a spa pool in Ischia and, in the background, the Castle of Ischia.

stances. Depending on their composition, they are a healing remedy for many diseases. Mineral baths and spas, ozone therapy, showers, mud treatments, turkish baths and underwater massages are also available for those who want a holiday in which to “disconnect” and laze in front of landscapes with an incredible variety of blue tones. The climate and the extraordinary variety of the island’s vegetation complement the health benefits by helping the body and mind to regenerate.

The thermal waters of Ischia have been known since ancient times and are mentioned by Homer in the Iliad, the Aeneid by Virgil and many famous ancients such as Pliny and Strabo: in fact, in the imperial age the baths became a habitual place to visit by the Roman society and it was at that time that the island’s many natural sources were exploited to create the first public spas. The rest is history: 69 Fumarole groups and 29 thermal spring groups, more than 55 hotels with an internal spa centre, 7 thermal parks with swimming pools at different temperatures and exotic vegetation, 6 island municipalities offering services and facilities, and four free natural springs.

There really is something for every taste!

To complete the tour of beauty, all that’s missing is the visit to the island of Procida, also of volcanic nature, less “organized” than the others, but more geared towards direct contact between man and vegetation. In a context of modern accommodation facilities, but always in compliance with the winning combination of culture and nature.

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A sea with bright colours in an incredible variety of shades, a

Puglia

sea that marks a boundary. Two

extremely different seas meet at the

heel of Italy: the Adriatic Sea is sandy, shallow and light blue while the Ionian Sea is rocky, with deep seabed and an intense shade of blue. Some people say that in Santa Maria di Leuca they have seen the clear dividing line between the two seas. What is certain is that the view over the two different basins is breathtaking: the prickly pears add a splash of green and orange to the rocks washed by the sea; the wind causes the waves to break on the rocks and leaves the sand perfectly smooth; the region offers a unique combination of unspoilt beaches and a lively nightlife. Welcome to Apulia!

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One land,

two seas, a thousand splendours

APULIA

Sun, sea and wind Apulia is the easternmost region of Italy and, with about 800 kilometres of coastline, it is the region with the longest coast: the shores of Apulia alternate between rocky stretches of coast (such as the Gargano), cliffs and long stretches of sandy beaches (such as in Salento, the Gulf of Taranto and the Bari area). More than 98% of the coast is suitable for swimming and the crystal clear waters have led it to be known as the “Maldive islands of Italy”.

Inland Apulia offers endless rugged landscapes with fascinating colours: the Tavoliere delle Puglie, which has a surface area of 3,000 square kilometres, is the second largest plain in Italian after the Padanian plain, the Murge, a limestone plateau that lies between the Tavoliere and Salento, the Valley of Itria, with the highest concentration of trulli (the traditional round stone houses with conical roofs). Lastly, there are the islands, tiny paradises of unspoilt nature and clear blue water.

In summer Apulia is a byword for “seaside holidays” with all the various differences in landscape and a wide range of tourist accommodation and facilities. The Tremiti Islands (San Domino, San Nicola and Capraia, as well as the uninhabited island of Pianosa and the islet of Cretaccio) have an indented coastline full of caves and are protected as a marine nature reserve. The largest island is San Domino, the heart of tourism in the Archipelago, which includes Cala delle Arene, the only sandy beach. San Nicola has an atmosphere coloured by history and antiquity with Neolithic sites, Greek tombs, the abbey of Santa Maria a Mare (don’t miss the mosaic floor and the walls) and the fortifications built during its transformation into a penal colony.

Not far away, the marvellous spur of the Gargano with the picturesque towns and villages of Mattinata, Peschici, Rodi Garganico, Manfredonia and Vieste. Peschici is characterised by the traditional trabucchi, structures made of wooden poles which are intertwined with ropes and pulleys and used for fishing: by lowering a large sack-like net into the sea, the operators of these structures (trabucchisti) activate a mechanism and imprison shoals of fish. The trabucchi can also be seen at Vieste, but the town is dominated by Pizzomunno, a monolith of about 25 metres linked to the legend of a tall strong young man in love with the beautiful Cristalda: each day he would venture out to sea harassed in vain by the Sirens who, out of jealousy, took the young girl to the seabed. The following day, the fishermen found that he had turned to stone as a result of his grief and transformed into the rock that bears his name.

The landscape of Salento is completely different and alternates between long golden sandy beaches and imposing cliffs with sheer drops down to the sea. Overlooking two seas, Salento is an amazing tourist destination that boasts authentic features; these range from glamorous lidos, where holiday-makers can enjoy aperitifs on deck-chairs in the sea at sunset or dance all night on the seashore, to large protected pine forests with emblematic names such as Porto Selvaggio. The entire coastline is dominated by fifteenth century watchtowers which survey the sea: there are 12 in the province of Brindisi, 17 in the province of Taranto and as many as 57 in the province of Lecce. The inland areas close to the coast are dotted with large farmhouse complexes which used to be fortified and are now used as holiday farmhouses and high quality tourist accommodation. The architectural landscape overlooking the sea resembles Greece due to the predominance of white flat-roofed houses with terraces, while the towns and cities bear the clear imprint of the Baroque style of Lecce. The true maritime capitals are Gallipoli, on the Ionian Sea, and Otranto, on the Adriatic. The undisputed capital in terms of historical monuments and art is Lecce.

Opposite page: the beach of Mattinata. Above from left to right: the trulli of Alberobello; an expanse of vineyards near Mattinata; the ramparts of Otranto. Below: the coast of Vieste.

Lecce the cultural capital of the Baroque

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Province: Lecce Altitude: 49 m asl Inhabitants: 96,274 Tourist information: Informazioni Accoglienza Turistica Lecce via Vittorio Emanuele, 24 Tel. +39 0832 248092 www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

Lecce lies in the heart of the Salento, the ancient prehistoric city of the Messapians, later a civis romana and then an important city during each subsequent period until the full baroque period whose splendour is still evident. The city is highly stratified into historical periods which all have one common element: the use of the local sandstone (pietra leccese) which was widely available locally, easy to work and beautiful to behold. Dominated by the 29 metre high statue of the patron saint Orontius (Sant’Oronzo), the main square is highly distinctive by virtue of the ruins of the Roman Amphiteatre which was brought to light and enhanced so that it now hosts numerous dance and theatre festivals. The

Above: the rose window of the church of Santa Croce. Below: the Cathedral.

heart of the city, together with the “fashionable meeting place” of Piazza Sant’Oronzo, is piazza del Duomo. The square is wide, spacious, clean and enhanced by the elegance and sophistication of the false baroque façade of the gleaming white cathedral, situated next to the elaborate bell tower recently restored to its original splendour thanks to careful restoration work. The original façade, the entrance to the cathedral, is situated on a side of the building that is less visible.

The most extraordinary landmark of the city is the Church of Santa Croce, with its incredible façade dominated by a rose window and the meticulous formal decoration which illustrates how the Lecce Baroque manages to lighten the seventeenth century style and make it less ostentatious. The same impression continues inside the building where the altars are laden with elegantly carved flowers, fruit and characters, supported by spiral columns, but sensitively accompanied by exquisite workmanship and colouring.

Before entering one of the traditional restaurants or one of the many fashionable pubs (easily recognisable from the crowd of young people thronging the streets of the historic centre), it is worth walking round the city. Follow the city walls and admire the gateways which were named after their orientation or role: Porta Napoli, or “Triumphal Arch”, built in 1548 in honour of Charles V to thank him for the fortifications defending the city; Porta Rudiae, which takes its name from the ancient Messapian city whose first centre was situated in this area; Porta San Biagio, built on the ruins of an ancient tower and protected by the statue of the saint from which the gate takes its name. After completing the tour, the next step is to explore Lecce’s local products: besides the workshops that make prestigious objects from the local sandstone, the city is also renowned for its papier mâché workshops, a traditional craft of Lecce which leads to quite extraordinary creations; in this case too, artisans fashion unique objects of all kinds and sizes, with both sacred themes (the Virgin Mary or the Nativity) and secular themes (trades and traditional figures). A fitting conclusion to this brief tour of the city, which is best explored without a street map but by getting lost in the stone-paved streets of the historic centre, is the discovery of local culinary specialities: an excellent local pastry called pasticciotto provides a sweet conclusion to the trip. Made from baked shortcrust pastry filled with confectioner’s custard: this is another way to fall in love with the city!

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica Of all the local events, the most famous is the Notte della Taranta (Night of Tarantula), which draws tens of thousands of fans of the pizzica to Melpignano in August (120,000 visitors in 2012). It is the wonderful final evening of a travelling festival which involves numerous towns in the region throughout the summer with its music.

People dance the pizzica, a traditional dance with ancient origins (records of it go back to the fourteenth century) which is typical of Salento, but also of the area of Matera in Basilicata, the Cilento in Campania and certain areas of Sicily. The dance belongs to the family of the tarantelle, linked to the curative practices of tarantism but essentially a joyful dance to be performed during celebrations and convivial moments. Traditional accompaniments are the handkerchief or the shawl, essential accessories in the clothing of the past, which were waved during dances to invite the chosen partner: they were therefore not meant to be a token of love but were simply a way of enlivening the dance.

Food festivals also multiply in summer almost as fast as the incessant rhythm of the pizzica: they range from the Sagra della Pittula (held in many local towns and villages), devoted to savoury or sweet fried balls of dough to the Sagra te la Carne alla Turca (Festival of Meat in the Turkish Style), held in Surano in early August, a celebration of the traditional dish of oriental origin – extremely spicy pork – and the “Nettare dei pizzicati”, a liqueur made from “murtheddrha” (myrtle berries) from the hills of Salento, known as “Serre salentine”. Other festivals include the Sagra ti lu purpu (Octopus festival), Sagra te la purpetta (Meatball festival) and the much more recently established festival called Birra&Sound, held in Leverano. The pizzica also has a more “warlike” version which is extremely fascinating: the Danza delle Spade (The Dance of the Swords). In Torrepaduli, on the midAugust holiday, a dance is performed to the insistent rhythm of the tambourine by pairs of male dancers who simulate a duel by dancing and challenging each other with their arms.

In July, in Taranto, the famous Palio comes to an end. This palio is an event performed in period costume with the two races of rowing boats linked to their respective city districts. Another event in which the protagonists wear period costume is held in Oria, in the second week of August, to commemorate the arrival of Federick II of Swabia in 1225: after the medieval procession, the races between the four districts are held. On the third Saturday in June, in Fasano, “La Scamiciata” is staged. It features a historical commemoration of the victory over the Turks in 1678 beneath the city walls while another festival held in Lucera in August

Above: a moment during the Night of Tarantula.

commemorates the expulsion of the Saracens and the accession of the Angevins. On the 26th August, each year, a special event is held in the bright white town of Ostuni to celebrate the patron saint Orontius. The celebrations involve the “Cavalcata”, a procession of horses and riders dressed up in red. The festival of St Oronzo is the most important festival held in the area; all the towns and villages in the area celebrate the patron saint in their own way, as in Turi. Here the saint’s martyrdom is recalled beginning with a procession from the cave where, according to legend, the bishop celebrated mass. The main feature of the procession is the gigantic triumphal chariot pulled by six mules.

The list of religious and secular celebrations, featuring folklore, traditional foods and lively music, is endless. Each town and village in Apulia offers events of this kind: visitors just need to discover them to enliven the evenings of a“seaside”holiday with a touch of tradition!

The “black souls” of Apulia Primitivo di Manduria Doc and Negramaro: these dark red wines are the “black souls” of Apulia. The first wine takes its name from the fact that the Primitivo grapes ripen very early. It was originally made in the Ionian-Salentine coastal regions, although it later spread to the Murge and the areas of Taranto and Bari. The Primitivo grape was first cultivated intensively by Benedictine monks in the twelfth century in the area of Gioia del Colle; throughout Apulia, Primitivo is made in many different versions: table wine, amabile (sweet), and in two liqueur-like versions, one dryer and one sweeter (liquoroso secco and liquoroso dolce). Negramaro is a very different red wine, grown almost exclusively in Salento. The origin of the name is linked simply to the repetition of the word nero (black) in two languages: niger (in Latin) and mavros (in ancient Greek). It is particularly well-suited to making rosé wines and, as a consequence, the most widespread DOC wine is Salice Salentino.

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Calabria

Whoever chooses Calabria for their holidays does so for its 800 kilometres of beaches. A fortunate choice, considering how variegated these coastlines are, from lively, well organized bathing establishments to remote beaches immersed in wild natural surroundings. Even the morphology of the coastline lends itself to those seeking variety, with fine sandy beaches and rocky stretches at just a short distance from each other. The inland areas, on the other hand, offer marvellous mountainous landscapes and trekking itineraries that follow in the footsteps of the Sila brigands and fauna, wolves first and foremost. And what about the local cuisine, which adds colour and flavour to every landscape, together with history and archaeology, giving the toe of the Italian boot the aura of a glorious past.

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The toe

of the boot

CALABRIA

Midst ancient mythology and legends Washed by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and the Ionian Sea to the east, Calabria opens up on its north-eastern side to the Gulf of Taranto and is delimited towards the south-west by the Straits of Messina, which separate Punta Pezzo from the Sicilian coast by just 3.2 km. In the course of history, the Straits of Messina themselves have actually inspired the myths and legends that confer charm to the magical scenario of these locations: the first stories date back to Homer who tells of Ulysses challenging the two terrifying monsters, Scylla and Charybdis, standing respectively on the Calabrian and Sicilian shores. Not surprising really, if we consider that the turbulent currents of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet and collide at the exact point where the straits are narrowest, to create sudden and unexpected whirlpools, which were certainly treacherous for the seafarers of ancient times. There is no doubt that the seabeds of the Straits represent an authentic paradise for scuba divers: the submerged mountains of Scilla are in fact carpeted with expanses of yellow-red and orange Gorgonian sea fans; the depths around Reggio and Capo d’Armi, on the other hand, are sandier but inhabited by a unique marine fauna.

A phenomenon still visible in the Straits is that of the Morgana Fairy which, in certain weather conditions, makes the shadows and reflections of Messina’s houses and lights stretch over the water to join those of Reggio Calabria, creating the sensation of being able to see one single immense city. Legend has it that, during the Barbarian invasions, in August, a barbarian king arrived in Reggio Calabria and, wondering how to reach Sicily, was tricked by the Morgana Fairy who made the island appear a few steps away from the king. Under the illusion that he could reach it by swimming a few strokes, he was drowned and perished in the sea.

The nearby Capo Vaticano, with its magical headland looking out over the Tyrrhenian Sea, owes its name to the Latin word Vaticinium, meaning “oracle”, since legend has it that its extreme tip is inhabited by the prophetess Manto. Sailors would visit her before venturing out into the whirlpools of Scylla and Charybdis, and Ulysses himself, once he had escaped the treacherous rocks, consulted Manto as to the favourable outcome of the journey ahead. Beaches of fine white sand, washed by crystal-clear water, extend under the headland. One of the most

Opposite page: the coast of Scilla at sunset. Above from the left: a craftsman at work; a view of Palizzi; ruins of the Greek theatre of Sibari (ancient Sybaris); the beach of Capo Vaticano.

charming beaches is that of Torre Ruffa, where Donna Canfora, kidnapped by Saracens, threw herself into the sea crying: “The women of this land prefer death to dishonour!” To honour her sacrifice, the sea changes colour every hour to recall the shades of the veil the woman wore while the echo of the breaking waves would be nothing but the tormenting lament with which Donna Canfora greets her beloved land every night.

Last but not least, there is Sibari, a legendary Greek colony which was renowned for the luxurious and dissolute ways of its inhabitants. All that remains of its splendour are the fantastic tales of an inaccessible and dissipated lifestyle, as well as a few ruins of the old city: the remains of houses in the area known as Parco del Cavallo and a sanctuary dedicated to Athena close to the station, where the Archaeological Museum of the area of Sibari also stands. And this account could go on to include many more locations, because every corner of Calabria conceals an extraordinary myth.

His majesty the hot chilli pepper The unchallenged king of Calabria’s cuisine is the hot chilli pepper. Belonging to the same family as the sweet pepper (Capsicum – Solanacee), its Latin name derives from the form of the fruit, which recalls a “capsule”, or box, safeguarding the seeds. Some believe that its name comes from the Greek word kapto, meaning to bite, an obvious allusion to the piquant taste it leaves on the tongue when eaten. In actual fact, it can be eaten in all sorts of ways, and this is particularly true in Calabria: cooked or raw, it finds its way into any type of sauce, meat or salami specialities, such as the famous ‘nduja (a salami mixture whose bright red-orange colour depends on the great quantity of hot pepper it contains) or spianata (a type of hard sausage meat of the same bright colour).

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Reggio Calabria

The city that was built twice Province: Reggio Calabria Altitude: 31 m asl Inhabitants: 186,503 Tourist information: Tourist Bureau Via Fata Morgana, 13 Tel. +39 0965 324822 http://turismo.reggiocal.it

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The Riace Bronze Warriors are the indisputable symbol of this city: the two Greek statues were accidentally discovered on 16 August 1972 in the water of Riace Marina, at approximately 300 metres from the coast at a depth of about 8 metres, together with fragments of an ancient vessel dating back to the Roman-Byzantine age; having undergone various restorative operations, they are housed temporarily at Palazzo Campanella, the Regional administrative headquarters, where they have been transferred because of renovation work in course at the National Museum of Magna Graecia in Reggio Calabria, which is their permanent exhibition seat.

This museum, which boasts exhibits such as the famous Philosopher’s Head and the Dioscuri group of statues, is just one of many reasons for visiting Reggio Calabria. Another is the impressive and majestic Aragonese Castle, probably erected in the VI century on a pre-existing fortification, whose history reflects that of this city: when in 1039, Reggio fell under the dominion of the Normans, led by Robert Guiscard, the castle was extended to include a donjon, the fortress tower leaning against the walls which housed the troops entrusted with the city’s defence; the rest of the building, however, dates back to the Suevian period: an impressive construction with a square layout and four square-shaped angular towers. It was restored several times during the Aragonese and Angevin wars, in a style that earned it the attribute of “Aragonese”, with the addition of a ravelin, until the eighteenth century when Charles III of Bourbon ordered its conversion into barracks. The history of the castle goes hand in hand with that of the city, its various dominions and its development.

However, two catastrophic events have led Reggio to being almost totally rebuilt: the 1783 earthquake and the catastrophic quake of Messina and Reggio, which razed the city to the ground in 1908 and destroyed the coastal areas with a terrible ti-

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This page: two views of the seafront of Reggio Calabria overlooking the Straits of Messina.

dal wave. Consequently, the extremely elongated Real Palazzina (Royal Palace) was rebuilt with its endless series of elegant Napoleonic buildings looking onto the seafront, together with the impressive St. George’s Palace (the town hall), the elegant Villa Genoese-Zerbi which is the most prestigious example of seventeenth century Baroque in this city, many churches and basilicas, including the lavishly decorated Baroque Cathedral (the largest religious construction in the region), the most ancient Byzantine basilica of the Catholic church of eastern rite, the monumental fountains on the seafront and a great number of impressive public and private buildings. Gabriele D’Annunzio described the town’s seafront as “the finest kilometre in Italy”: it is actually much longer than one kilometre, since it occupies the coastal area comprised between the port and the Maritime Fort and is often referred to as “via Marina”. Here the numerous Art Nouveau buildings contribute to the elegance of this promenade, embellished by stretches of Greek city walls and a Roman spa complex, as well as monumental fountains and memorials. If you stand right here and look towards Sicily, you might just experience the mirage of the Morgana Fairy.

The sea beloved by the gods Above from left to right: the face of one of the Riace Bronze Warriors; a bay in the marine nature reserve of Capo Rizzuto. Below: the beach of Tropea.

The coasts of Calabria have fascinating names, associated with their distinctive vegetation or the history that has passed through and transformed them in the course of time. In this respect a particularly significant name is the Costa degli Dei (Coast of the Gods) or “Costa Bella” around Vibo Valentia. Beautiful, without a doubt, with its fascinating views, the little white coves that may only be reached by boat or on foot, the Aeolian Islands and the volcanic island of Stromboli, all of which are just a short distance away. “Of the gods” because, with its transparent water and luscious seabeds, it evokes dreamlike landscapes and paradisiacal dives. Certainly not to be missed is Tropea, one of the most popular locations in Calabria for national and international tourists, offering as many as twelve churches and a blue grotto, a summer bluefish festival and plaited red onions hanging from its windows (the red onion of Tropea, of unmistakable sweetness, has been awarded with a quality trademark). The charming beaches and crystal clear sea, whose depths teem with fish, make Capo Vaticano another mandatory stop, along with the fascinating inland area offering typical specialities such as the“Nduja di Spilinga”and“Pecorino del Poro”. Then comes Pizzo Calabro, a seaside resort and fishing port perched high above the sea which owes its fame to the Castle of Joachim Murat, the husband of Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister, who was tricked into coming to Calabria and shot without a blindfold.

The home-made ice-creams of Pizzo are well known in the area.

And how can you miss a visit to Parghelia, with its Pizzuta, so called because of the granitic pinnacles emerging from the sea, or Zambrone, with beaches that recall those of the Tropics and the Scoglio della Galea (Galea Rock), abounding in cavities and hollows inhabited by marine fauna of all types.

Looking onto the Ionian sea, the Costa dei Saraceni (Saracens’ Coast) presents a completely different scenario with its wild landscape and eventful history. It extends between Cariati and the hills of the Marquisate of Crotone, with a variegated morphology of alternating wide and narrow gulfs. There are some extremely vast areas close to the shore, which present lush Mediterranean vegetation and pinewoods, where new tourist accommodation facilities of considerable dimensions and elevated standards have found an ideal setting without modifying the general aspect of the area. The entire zone is comprised in the Marine Reserve of Capo Rizzuto, 40 hectares of Mediterrane-

an maquis with a strictly regulated system to safeguard the sea depths and the numerous species living there. Moreover, the entire coast is a haven of Greek, medieval and Byzantine archaeological remains. For instance, Cirò Marina’s origins, the ancient town of Krimisa, are Greek. Now it is one of the main seaside resorts on the Ionian coast of Calabria.

The bathing area of the Municipality of Crotone extends to the south of the port as far as the headland of Capo Colonna, an archaeological site of great interest, symbolized by the solitary column rising up over the sea and which gives its name to the promontory. Capo Colonna, Capo Cimiti, Capo Rizzuto and Punta Le Castella are the most popular tourist spots on the Saracens’ Coast.

Now it is up to you to explore these coasts steeped in history, or others that take the names of Riviera dei Cedri (Riviera of citron trees) and Costa Viola (Violet Coast), on the Tyrrhenian coast, and Riviera degli Aranci (Riviera of Oranges), Costa degli Aranci (Coast of Oranges) and Costa dei Gelsomini (Jasmine Coast), on the Ionian coast. Coastlines in which sea, beaches and vegetation combine to create a truly divine landscape.

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Sicilia

The largest island in the

Mediterranean, the cradle of history,

which holds some of the best preserved archaeological sites in the world and six UNESCO World Heritage sites. A destination for lovers of the sea and culture, Sicily, with the archipelago of small islands that flank it, is a world to discover. The ancient Trinacria, land of Greek colonization, of Roman Empire, through the Islamic and Norman eras and the Angevin, Aragonese and Bourbon rules, shows all these traces in its beautiful scenery: because Sicily is a land of culture, but it is also a land of sun, beaches, sea, volcanoes and environments that always leave you speechless.

The island on which the sun shines

SICILY

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Opposite page: the Greek theatre of Taormina. Above: aerial view of Stromboli.

On the right: view of Acireale. Below: Stacks of Acitrezza at dawn.

Where volcanoes reign You have to go to Sicily to see most of the active Italian volcanoes, the highest of which is Mount Etna with its 3330 m.

In addition to the volcano that dominates Catania, there’s a whole arc of volcanic islands still in full activity: these are the Aeolian Islands, also known as “Lipari”, places not only for tourism, but also of great geological interest.

Lipari, the largest of the archipelago, is the emerged portion of a large volcanic structure with a height of approximately 1500 m that starts at just under 1000 m below sea level. The oldest rocks of the island are more than 200,000 years old and between them open fumaroles and hot springs with water temperatures up to 90 ° C, a tangible sign of the vitality which still stands below them. Just by walking along the paths of the island you can see many outcrops that are nothing more than the solidification of the eruptive material: transparent deposits, with alternating light and dark bands, often with glassy obsidian lava.

Instead, it is Vulcano that is the island with the most suggestive name. The spur is composed of several volcanic systems: in addition to the upper crater with fumaroles that are still active, at the ends of the island there are platforms like Vulcanello, whose lava has a different composition from that of Vulcano due to the different depths of the magma. The visitors who climb (there are guided tours, which are fully safe) to the crater can enjoy a breathtaking view across the area of the fumaroles which gives you a good understanding of how

the ancients could believe, without scientific explanation, that in the bowels of the earth there was a forge for metalworking, presided over by the god Hephaestus or Vulcan, who had an short-temper. On the summit of Vulcano, tourists can admire the marvellous Realgar crystals (red, with copper and arsenic), white crystals of boron and the sulphur yellow ones. Then there is the wonderful Stromboli, the last to emerge among the Aeolian Islands (preceded by Strombolicchio, a small volcano which is now only a rock in the sea), which is active, more or less continuously, for at least 2000 years. An entirely specific activity, which is called “Strombolian” and which consists of almost continuous explosions with little waste being launched from the eruptive vents: This is a unique show, with the five mouths always active, and can be observed on walking excursions day and night. Finally in Salina, from the small fishing port of Rinella, located between twin volcanos, you can admire the Monte Fossa delle Felci, the largest volcano which has been inactive for more than 13,000 years, the only one with a forest. The other islands of the Aeolian archipelago - Alicudi, Filicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo - also have volcanic origins: this can be seen from the dark colour of the rocks overlooking the sea, with a few coves accessible only by boat. An uncontaminated spectacle.

Returning to the main island, and dominating the whole of Sicily is Mount Etna, a volcanic structure that is grandiose in size and in history, when you consider that its eruptive activity began 500,000 years ago with the first submarine eruptions.

The coasts of Catania are a testimony of this activity: they are characterized by the famous pillow lavas, so called because of the concentric layers rounded by water and glazed, then welded together to form the famous lava floors such as the port of Aci Castello, mentioned by Verga’s I Malavoglia. From about 100,000 years ago to now, the eruptive activity has moved: first along the Ionian coast (with the occasional fissure eruption up to the coast in the area called “delle Gole dell’Alcantara”), today on the volcano called Ellittico, which constitutes the main structure of Mount Etna. The ability to climb this active giant is definitely a unique opportunity that close up shows the beauty of untamed nature.

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Agrigento The “most beautiful city of mortals” To say “Agrigento” is to say “Valley of the Temples”: here are the remains of the ancient Akragas which was founded in the sixth century BC by colonists from Gela and which, in just one hundred years, became, in the words of the poet Pindar, “the most beautiful city of mortals”. Destroyed by the Carthaginians, refounded and fallen with the Byzantines, the ancient city was abandoned in the ninth century after the Arab conquest, when on the hill Gergent was born. Passing to the Normans, the city began to grow until the eighteenth century, with embellishments of every style and era. But the valley remained there, between meadows and almond trees in flower, such as can be found today.

The temple of Juno Lacinia certainly lent itself, thanks to its spectacular location on a cliff at the top of the hill, to celebrate the cult of the goddess of fertility. There are fascinating traces of fire, still visible on the walls of the cell, recalling the Carthaginian destruction in 406 BC. Next to the temple, tourists can admire the altar for the sacrifices and the road rutted by the wheels of the wagons. The famous Telamoni, giant statues of human form, instead populate the temple of Olympian Zeus, built as a token of thanks during the first victory in 480 BC of the people of Agrigento against the Carthaginians. As can be seen, it would not be enough to protect the city from destruction. In the vicinity of the Porta Aurea, to commemorate the fallen of the Second Punic War, the tomb of Theron was built, an imposing pyramidshaped monument made from tufa stone.

The temple of Heracles is the oldest of them all and housed the bronze statue of Heracles (or Hercules). Destroyed by an earthquake, today there are only eight columns. Also little remains of the imposing temple of Vulcan; it was certainly built to replace a small archaic temple found under the foundation.

Province: Agrigento Altitude: 230 m asl Inhabitants: 59,130 Tourist information: Azienda Autonoma Provinciale per l’Incremento Turistico viale Della Vittoria, 255 Tel. +39 0922 401352 www.lavalledeitempli.eu

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A symbol of the city of Agrigento today is the temple of Castor and Pollux, the Dioscuri: today four beautiful columns can be seen. The best preserved temple is undoubtedly the temple of Concordia, located on the Via Sacra, which takes its name from a Latin inscription found nearby.

Agrigento, of course, is not just the Valley of the Temples.

It is in fact one of the most beautiful cities in Sicily, with a historic centre that recalls the vicissitudes experienced by the various rulers.

There are four main churches that embellish the streets and squares: inside the Santo Spirito Abbey, a complex that was built in 1260 and consists of the church and the adjacent Cistercian monastery, visitors can admire an explosion of eighteenth-century stucco on the walls and a magnificent wooden

These pages, clockwise from the left: the Cathedral; a moment during the flowering almond tree; the Temple of Castor and Pollux in the Valley of the Temples; the Temple of Concord.

caisson ceiling dated 1758, on which the coat of arms of the Chiaramonte family is painted, who financed its construction.

The monastery, also known as “the Great Abbey” has precious frescoes and a great quadrangular cloister with a number of Gothic portals.

The church of Santa Maria dei Greci, in the oldest district of the city, was built in the twelfth century on the base of a Doric temple from the fifth century BC that some believe to be that of Athena, on the acropolis of the ancient Akragas, accessible from the left aisle. The San Gerlando Cathedral, from the eleventh century, in Norman-Gothic style, remodelled until the seventeenth century, with its unfinished tower from the fifteenth century, is a synthesis of the city’s historical stages: the

remarkable and richly painted wooden ceiling in the centre of which the two-headed eagle of Carlo V is represented. Of great importance is the Treasury of the Cathedral, which preserves the Sarcophagus of Phaedra, a third century Roman marble work inspired by the greek style.

Last but not least, the Church of San Lorenzo, also called “the church of Purgatory”: the elegant baroque prospect leads, inside, to eight female statues of Giuseppe and Giacomo Serpotta, representing the Virtues. Next to the church is the main entrance to the ancient tombs, a network of underground aqueducts from the fifth century BC that supplied Akragas, designed by the architect Feace and known throughout Magna Graecia.

Sweet Sicily The Almond from Noto, which has received the recognition of the Slow Food organisation, is undoubtedly one of the “magic” ingredients of Sicilian cooking, especially sweets. The three varieties of “cultivar” almonds are the Romana, the Fascionello and the Pizzuta d’Avola and grow in the Val di Noto, in the province of Syracuse. With almond flour and sugar they produce the famous Martorana Fruit, originally from Palermo, also known as “royal paste”, “almond paste” or “marzipan”.

The fruit shape is given through the use of plaster moulds, while the colour is obtained from food pigments.

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Corners of paradise in the blue Sicily and its islands make up a true work of art born from the synergy between the action of nature, myth and the work of man. But of course the natural setting is the one that most unites these islands in a corner of paradise.

The small Egadi archipelago, in the sea off Trapani and Marsala, consists of three larger islands (Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo) and the small island of Formica. Not far from the Sicilian coast (just 20 minutes by hydrofoil), they offer visitors a trip based on simplicity, serenity and the peace of the Trapani countryside: there are hotels, bed and breakfasts and apartments, as well as quiet camping.

The islands are very different from each other: Favignana can be defined as “for all the family”, while Levanzo has a “minimalist” charm and is famous for the Grotta del Genovese, with graffiti more than 10,000 years old; Finally, Marettimo is recommended for tourists who love trekking and enjoying nature surrounded by the sea.

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The Aeolian archipelago, the “volcanic” charm, provides a good choice for lovers of nautical tourism: Lipari has three ports, one for small boats (Marina Corta), one for ferries and hydrofoils (Marina Lunga) and one for fishing boats (Pignataro). The Aeolian Islands are called “the sisters of Hawaii” for their beauty and since Neolithic times were colonized to exploit the obsidian, a volcanic glass conformation perfect for making arrowheads and cutting tools.

Still in the area of sea that is part of Trapani, Pantelleria is famous for the opportunity to spend a relaxing holiday in the fresh “dammusi”, natural caves which have been expanded to obtain living spaces: created in the tenth century, they have very thick walls, roof dome and it is the thickness of the wall that isolates the inside of the dwelling in order to self-regulate the temperature.

Pantelleria, so close to the coast of Sicily but also that of Africa (only 37 km away), offers exceptional natural sites, such as the

Montagna Grande and the volcan Monte Gibele (whose past eruptions date back 9000 years), and incredible archaeological sites, such as the abandoned village of Mueggen, the Bagno Asciutto Grotto, used in ancient times as a sauna, and the Phoenician catacombs of Monastero. Or the Sesi, large tombs built with huge blocks of lava stone, beside the ruins of an ancient prehistoric coastal village.

Regarding volcanic sights there are the fascinating “favare”, emissions of water vapour, and the “stufe” (stove), natural caves with steam at high temperatures. Conversely, in the Grotta del Freddo (Cold Grotto) the escape of cold air is assisted. There are, of course, hot springs, such as those at Specchio di Venere Lake (Mirror of Venus), with saline mineral waters. Excursions on horseback or by boat are on the agenda to allow tourists to discover unusual corners, otherwise unreachable.

Likewise very close to Africa, the Pelagie consist of Lampedusa, Linosa and Lampione, three small black islands also of volcanic origin. Lampedusa is the favourite destination of those who conceive the beach holiday as a total experience: a barren limestone plateau washed with crystal clear waters to form a basic landscape, no frills, with tropical fauna (it is not difficult, on the seabed, to find parrotfish and triggerfish).

Ustica, finally, is the most pristine of all the islands. Picturesque and colourful due to the murals on the houses of the fishermen, it is located just over 60 km from the coast of Palermo and is a very small emerged portion of a gigantic underwater volcanic complex.

The real attraction of the island is its nature reserve with a rich wildlife population just a few metres deep. Well worth a visit is the Punta Spalmatore aquarium and the permanent naturalistic exhibition in Torre Spalmatore.

The beautiful seabed of the island can be admired even by those who do not dive thanks to a boat with large windows on the bottom that allows you to explore the blue paradise populated with bass, bream, sea bream and grouper. Ustica is therefore nature in a free state, but there is also archaeology: the notable village of Faraglioni, fortified, with the remains of more than two hundred houses. Archaeologists have also uncovered a large Roman necropolis.

Opposite page: Roman ruins on the island of Lampedusa; below, Capo Milazzese on the island of Panarea. This page, clockwise from the left: the rock of Strombolicchio; the Elephant Arch on the island of Pantelleria; the small harbour of Levanzo.

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Sardegna

Almost 2000 kilometres of coastline, long beaches, coves, reefs and tourist marinas: the Sardinian landscape changes in form and colour with every kilometre. And likewise, a Sardinian holiday may vary from day to day: sunshine and sea, relaxation and sport, scuba diving and trekking, leisure boating and horse riding, cities and archaeological sites. The seabeds of the island and its many minor islets are a diver’s paradise; the strong frequent winds allow for surfing, windsurfing, kite surfing and sailing; the villages of the inland area are ideal for cultural visits and the discovery of fine food and wine specialities; folklore is a feature of every corner of this region and the mountainous areas lend themselves to trekking, free climbing, caving and pot-holing activities, golf, mountain cycling and horse riding. The choice is yours!

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Mediterranean princess

SARDINIA

The charm of a unique history Nuraghi and giant stone masses are its symbol: Sardinia, with its blue sea and uncontaminated inland areas, is deeply rooted in ancient history and has a marked cultural identity, which is typical of an insular territory. A unique example is certainly represented by the “Giants” of Mount Prama, huge statues sculpted in a way which, to all effects and purposes, recall the Greek Kouroi, but with which there are no chronological or cultural ties: a sign of how the Sardinian culture is one of a kind and has no comparison with anything else in the Mediterranean basin. The “Giants”, exhibited at the Li Punti Restoration Centre (Sassari), were found in the area of Cabras, on the slopes of Mount Prama, close to an ancient necropolis dominated by a nuraghe. And now we come to the other great protagonists of the island: the nuraghi, groups of megalithic edifices of a truncated conical shape, dating back to the socalled “nuragic” civilization which existed in the II millennium B.C. solely and exclusively in Sardinia. Apparently there are still about seven thousand of these constructions still standing throughout the Island, even though it is thought that there were originally many more, built very close to each other, as in the Nuraghi Valley complex, the area of Logudoro Meilogu, where there are about thirty nuraghi and about ten giants’ tombs, and where the so-called domus de janas, “fairy houses”, are preserved, hypogean burial chambers excavated in the rocks and dating back to the Neolithic age.

In its eventful past, Sardinia has witnessed the passing of the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who gave way to the Romans after the first Punic War. Traces of this past may be admired in the extraordinary archaeological site of Nora, in Pula: the ancient city is located on a headland separated from the mainland by an isthmus that extends at two points, Sa Punta and Su Coloru to the west, Punta del Coltellazzo to the east, facing the little island of the same name.

And now that we have described “archaeological Sardinia” a mention is due to its “literature”: Sardinia has actually been the birthplace of a great number of writers, who have described its colours,

its wild primitive atmosphere and life on the island as it really is. A recommended literary itinerary has to include the places described in the pages of Doves and Sparrow Hawks and Canes swinging in the Wind, masterpieces by Grazia Deledda, the most famous of Sardinian writers who won a Nobel in 1926: the itinerary starts in Orune, «It is an old and closed village, where the usages, the habits, the customs, the most distant popular traditions persist, perhaps more than in any other place, together with the intelligence and the value of a life which is just as energetic as it is limited, full of expressive capacity, individual power and solitude………», to say it with the words of Carlo Levi, but above all a village that is worth visiting for its double attraction of the early twentieth century Murgia building and the prehistoric menhir and dolmen of Isthiti; then we move on to Galtellì, where it is possible to visit the Sardinian writer’s home in one of the most characteristic and best preserved old town centres in Sardinia, with its St. Peter’s cathedral and the ancient landowner’s house Domo de Marras, now an Ethnographic Museum, which has reconstructed typical scenes depicting the everyday lives of agricultural workers and herdsmen.

Aspects of Sardinia, therefore, that go well beyond that of its seaside attractions.

Opposite page: view of Maddalena from the island of Caprera.

Above from left to right: the interior of a nuraghe (prehistoric round tower); windsurfing off Cagliari; vegetation on Mount Albo. Below: sunset at Castelsardo.

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An island of timeless traditions A holiday in Sardinia is certainly about plunging into the blue sea and enjoying the peace and quiet of uncontaminated nature.

But it is also a journey packed with surprising experiences and charm, a mysterious exploration into the spirit of a proud, creative and imaginative population.

Finding out about old traditional customs is always an interesting experience: no other region in Italy can claim to having so many, and which are so different from one place to another.

Each little community defends them proudly, to highlight the cultural identity of each village. Clothing, in the past, used to represent different occasions in life: so there are at least three different ways of dressing – everyday, special occasions and mourning dress – for all of the 370 municipalities on the island!

Only elderly people still wear these costumes regularly, especially in the villages of Desulo, Tonara and Orgosolo, in the area of Nuoro, or in Busachi, close to Oristano, or in Cagliari on the feast day of Saint Ephisius and in Sassari during the traditional Cavalcade: a picturesque event offering spectators the experience of a return to the past.

It is interesting to try to understand the translation of some of

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the various garments used: women’s costumes are made up of a headdress, a camisa (blouse), the palas or cossu (bodice), a corittu (jacket), the munedda (skirt) and the pannellu (apron); men on the other hand wear cartzones (trousers), a ragas (a short black skirt gathered in at the waist), the gabbanu (coat) and the mastrucca (a sleeveless sheepskin jacket that is commonly used by herdsmen).

Whoever wishes to go more deeply into these particular aspects, to find out about the lives of the herdsmen of Barbagia, or listen to and understand the typical folk songs, to learn more about the origins of purceddu (suckling pig), casu marzu (typical cheese with worms) and pane carasau (a crisp unleavened bread), cannot miss out on a visit to one of the museums created to accompany visitors on their journey into this unique cultural environment: in Cagliari, for example, it is possible to visit the Centre of Peasant Culture “Villa Muscas”, a museum housing a collection of tools, agricultural machinery, typical artefacts of Sardinian rural communities, as well as boasting a remarkable collection of wines, with over 800 bottles of Sardinian production.

Then, at the Citadel of Museums, also in the regional capital,

the Cocco Ethnographical Collection is exhibited, with fabrics woven on a horizontal loom, jewellery (the Sardinian wedding rings engraved in gold or silver with french wire, microspheres and tiny fretworked leaves) and furniture (especially wooden chests, called kascia or arka if they are large, and kascitta or kascioneddu if small).

Those who prefer to “experience traditions” directly, rather than visit museums, cannot possibly miss the numerous folk festivals animating the summer days, evenings and nights: in June Alghero comes to life with the rites of Fire, Water and Prediction to celebrate the feast of Saint John the Baptist; the third Sunday in July in Villasimius offers an impacting experience with its Feast of Our Lady of Castaways, with a procession of boats paying homage to the Virgin’s statue on the sea bottom. July ends in Gavoi with the lively traditional feast of Our Lady of Sa Itria, where it is possible to take part in horse racing events in honour of the Our Lady. Horses are also at the centre of attention on the first Sunday in August during the Fonni Palio, whose contestants not only represent Communes in Sardinia but also those of Italy and elsewhere. On 14th August, the eve of Assumption Day, the Candle Procession takes place in Nulvi, in which giant candles weighing over nine quintals each, are carried through the streets, while in Guasila, on the 15th, the Feast day of the Assumption, the game of s’acchixedda takes place: the village bachelors, all on horseback, have to lasso a heifer. Another interesting event is the Barefoot Race, on the first Sunday of September in Cabras: it is a re-enactment of the barefooted flight to save the Statue of Saint Salvatore who, in times gone by, had fended off invaders.

And the list could go on forever: each village has its traditional costumes, local specialities and folk festivals, all waiting to be discovered, tasted and experienced.

Opposite page: above, a young man wearing traditional costume.

Below, a flock of sheep in Barbagia. This page, clockwise from the left: the boat race of Is Fassonis in Santa Giusta; a girl during the festival of Sant’Efisio in Cagliari; a lane in Galtellì.

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Cagliari, An ancient capital waiting to be discovered With a history stretching back thousands of years, Cagliari also boasted the title of capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia from 1324 to 1720 and from 1798 to 1814. Facing the so-called Gulf of Angels, it extends around the historical city centre (called Castello) and is built on seven different hills which now represent the various city quarters: Castello, Tuvu Mannu, Tuvixeddu, Monte Claro, Monte Urpinu, Colle di Bonaria and Colle di San Michele. The city has developed over a hilly area and a stretch of flat land on which the more recent quarters have developed from the twentieth century onwards. With a wealth of monuments and places of interest, the “old city” is encircled by the Bastion of Saint Rémy, built in the late nineteenth century on the walls and aqueduct of the ancient Caralis, which was later transformed into a botanical garden, with numerous species of plants growing among cisterns, wells and quarries dating back to Roman times and used as air-raid shelters during the second World War. Adopting a chronological approach, our visit of the city starts out from the necropolises of Tuvixeddu (dating back to the Phoenician age) and of St. Paul (Roman) and from the burial tomb known as the Viper’s Grotto, but also takes in the Roman Villa of Tigellius, the Temple of via Malta, the archaeological site of Saint Eulalie and the Fullonica, the tanks used in Roman times for dyeing fabrics.

The plant treasured

by Venus Myrtle liqueur, whether red or white, is a popular drink in Sardinia and Corsica and is made by marinating myrtle berries or a mixture of berries and leaves in alcohol. The red version is prepared by marinating ripe pigmented berries. Its origins are extremely ancient even though the first documents in which it is mentioned date back to the nineteenth century, when families used to make myrtle wine, using a mixture of aqua vitae and water or wine and water as a marinade. Once it has sufficiently marinated, sugar or honey are added to sweeten. Sardinian myrtle liqueur has digestive properties, so it is normally drunk at the end of a meal but many people also enjoy it as an aperitif. Ideally, it should be served ice cold.

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Province: Cagliari Altitude: 23 m asl Inhabitants: 155 887 Tourist information: Ente Sardo Industrie Turistiche via Mameli, 97 - Tel. +39 070 664195 www.visit-cagliari.it

« «

Opposite page: Cagliari cathedral. Above: the port of Marina Piccola at the foot of the promontory of Sella del Diavolo. Below: a part of the Ramparts of Saint Remy.

If we move on to the Middle Ages, you can not miss to visit the impressive walls with their four towers of the Elephant, the Buttress, Saint Pancras and the Eagle. Dating back to the same period is the Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello, dedicated to the Virgin and to St. Cecilia Virgin and Martyr, built in the Romanic style of Pisa, whose present aspect however reveals the Baroque alterations and the neo-Romanic façade inspired by the Cathedral of Pisa. The Royal Palace (or Viceroy’s Palace), the ancient residence of the King’s deputy, dates back to the Aragonese period. Its fourteenth century features have been completely modified by the restoration work of 1730 executed by the Piedmont engineers De Guibert and De Vincenti: another innovation of those years was the ceremonial staircase leading to the master floor, the official residence of the Savoy royal family and its court, exiled from Turin by Napoleon Bonaparte.

The churches of Saint Restituta and Saint Lucifer are interesting to visit; standing in two different parts of the city, they were both erected during the Middle Ages in areas of particular significance to ancient populations: the first is erected on a vast hypogean chamber which was used as a crypt by the Punic people, Romans and early Christians; the church of Saint Lucifer rises on an ancient paleo-Christian necropolis which had been

frequently explored for relics until a tombstone was found bearing the inscription “Lucif Crus Arcepis” (hence its present name).

The great ferment of the Savoy period is reflected in the construction of the Palazzo dell’Università (university building) commissioned by King Charles Emanuel III to a project by one of his military engineers: the concept consisted in creating a vast cultural hub with the erection of a university building, seminar and theatre (only the first two were built). In the hall of the Rector’s office, visitors can stop and admire the four symbolic bronze statues, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medicine and Science and Technology (the latter is a work by Francesco Messina).

On the outskirts of the city, it is well worth paying a visit to the Cagliari salt-pans, located close to the Beach of the Poetto (an area administrated by the Municipality of Cagliari and that of Quartu Sant’Elena), and now included in the Regional Park of the Molentargius which is famous for its flamingos. Today, the salt city of the early twentieth century is considered to be a site of industrial archaeology and comprises executive buildings, workers’ dwellings, a Church, a theatre, along with the laboratories and workshops where the salt used to be extracted and processed.

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Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea There are numerous possible itineraries to follow if you wish to enjoy the endless and stupendous coastline of Sardinia.

You may decide to start out from Alghero, in the north-west of the island, and proceed towards the protected marine area of the Parco di Porto Conte, with Punta del Giglio and Capo Caccia. Here the karst rock headlands, the extremities of a faunal oasis populated by Giara ponies, open out into uncontaminated marine grottos such as the Green Grotto and the Grotto of Neptune. Take the flight of steps providing access to the latter, and follow a trail of densely packed stalactites and stalagmites leading to a marine lake surrounded by an extraordinary play of light. Just a short distance away from Capo Caccia, the nuraghi site of Palmavera makes you forget for a few moments how close the sea is.

Completely different atmospheres and landscapes can be discovered along the north-east coast by departing from Olbia, a strategic location for Sardinian tourism thanks to its airport. The first mandatory stopover is that of Porto Cervo, a renowned holiday resort that takes its name from the rather irregular morphology of the location, which extends along the coasts of a natural harbour whose outline recalls that of a deer’s horns. The streets, steps and porticos all converge in the little

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central square directly connected with the old port with its numerous designer fashion boutiques. The sight of luxury yachts and leisure boats berthed in the port is one of the attractions of this resort. We then move on to Palau, the customary departure point for the archipelago of La Maddalena, where you cannot help admiring the marvellous beaches that alternate with granitic rocks to create a truly breathtaking landscape.

Close to the centre of Palau, you will encounter Capo d’Orso, a granitic hill rising up 122 metres, whose form, modelled by the

natural elements, recalls the figure of a majestic bear. Around Palau there are lots of nuraghi sites and “giants’ tombs”. Another not-to-be-missed location is that of Santa Teresa di Gallura, whose layout was designed by Victor Emanuel I of Savoy in 1808. Today it is one of the most spectacular seaside resorts, thanks to its position facing the rocks on a particularly indented stretch of coast.

If we decide to visit the south of the island, from Cagliari it is possible to explore the sea bottom of the Golfo degli Angeli, to admire the ecosystem or “hunt” for wrecks. From Cagliari, we then move on to Santa Margherita di Pula, with its little tourist marina of Cala Verde, the rocky stacks of Capo Spartivento, the Secca del Candeliere (meaning candlestick shallows) with the three needles inspiring its name and a sandy seabed at a depth of 40 metres inhabited by various forms of life and countless archaeological remains left by ancient shipwrecks. Taking a boat to the archipelago of the Sulcis, visitors can see the marvellous St. Peter’s island and the little islet of Corno, under the lighthouse of Capo Sandalo. Glass bottom boats enable you to enjoy the sight of coral reefs carpeting the so-called Discesa delle Tacche Bianche (white-spotted descent) at just 17 metres depth.

Back north, one of the most popular destinations for a boating holiday is La Maddalena: an archipelago with seven major islands of which only three are inhabited. The archipelago is also famous for having been the last home of the Hero of Two Worlds, Giuseppe Garibaldi, who built his famous White House on Caprera, now a house museum and his burial place, open to the public. The town of Maddalena, on the other hand, looks onto the Harbour of Cala Gavetta and hosts the Nino Lamboglia Museum, dedicated to undersea archaeology (Lamboglia studied and classified all the different types and shapes of amphorae, and his name still lives on in the amphora classification code). Apart from these two islands, the archipelago is also comprised of Santa Maria (with a small inhabited area), Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and other minor islets.

Their uncontaminated nature makes them absolutely fascinating, with their preponderance of colours and scents typical of the Mediterranean maquis in an explosion of wild vegetation that regenerates body and soul.

Opposite page: four picturesque images of the Sardinian coast.

This page, clockwise from the left: the interior of a cave; sand dunes in Porto Pino; the Roccia dell’Orso in Palau; Cala Luna in the Bay of Orosei.

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®

Foto: Bams Photo

www.lagodigarda.it The Internet portal of Lake Garda

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

Foto: Giovanna Gatti

COMUNITÀ del GARDA

Foto: Bams Photo

Comunità del Garda Via dei Colli, 15 - Villa Mirabella - 25083 Gardone Riviera (BS) - info@lagodigarda.it

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Index

Liguria.................................. 36

Abruzzo ..............................

All the magic of the mountains and the Middle Ages

A balcony over the Mediterranean

The spectacle of nature

Bolzano

Genoa

Chieti

A land of beauty: spa treatments and wellness

A magical land of water

On the trail of the wolf and the bear

Trentino ............................... 12

Emilia Romagna .......... 40

Campania .......................... 70

A natural paradise set amidst the mountains

A land of passions and pleasure

The wonderful treasures of a Terra Felix

Trento

Bologna

Naples

Fun and adventure for all the family

The riviera... that never sleeps!

Islands of beauty and wellbeing

Lake Garda ...................... 16

Tuscany ................................ 44

Apulia ................................... 74

A small sea among the mountains

Picture postcard views

One land, two seas, a thousand splendours

Riva

From sunflowers to woods

Lecce

For a holiday... made for all the family

Firenze

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica

South Tyrol ..........................

6

Lombardy .......................... 20

Versilia: trend-setting beaches

Calabria .............................

A region with a thousand different faces

The Island of Elba ....... 54

Milan

A gem of an island

Reggio Calabria

Lake Como, the pleasure residences

One small island, many small towns

The sea beloved by the gods

Veneto ................................... 24

Sicily.....................................

A kaleidoscope of emotions

Marche ................................. 58

Walled cities and cities on water

Nature and culture: a region’s trademark

Agrigento

Venice

Urbino

Corners of paradise in the blue

In the name of relaxation and fun

Velvety beaches

Sardinia..............................

Latium.................................. 62

At the edges of the territory, in the centre of history

Set between ancient splendour and modern gems

An island of timeless traditions

Trieste

Rome

Cagliari

A region to discover... underground!

Castles, hills and flower festivals

Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea

Per osservazioni e segnalazioni scrivere a: redazione@publitour.it

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The island on which the sun shines

Friuli Venezia Giulia .... 32

Realizzata da Publitour S.p.A. – Sede legale: Viale Bruno Buozzi, 19 – I-00197 Roma www.publitour.it – info@publitour.it Direttore responsabile: Luca Mantovani Publitour S.p.A. – ufficio di Verona, via Casette di Sotto, 13 – 37060 Palazzolo di Sona (VR) Redazione: Chiara Taborelli, Emanuela Zanotti, Luca Fraccarolli, Sara Pasini Servizi tecnici: Antonio Gallo Grafica pubblicitaria: Max Guglielmetto e Giuseppe Debeni Traduzioni: Languages Services di Roberta Volpi – www.traduzionirapide.com

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The toe of the boot

Wonders under the sea

Italia Vacanze New n. 0 – www.italiavacanze.com

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Mediterranean princess

Progetto grafico, testi e editing: Studio27 Progetto Editoriale con la collaborazione di Giampaolo Bardella, Paolo Lavadini, Giulia Varetti, Tiziana Gilardi e Silvia Cortellazzi www.studio27snc.it – info@studio27snc.it Referenze fotografiche: Fotolia, De Agostini Picture Library, Luca Finessi, Foto Paritani, Gianluca Carapezza, Paolo Lavadini, Giulia Varetti

Stampa: Roto 2000 S.p.A. – Casarile (Milano) Finito di stampare nel mese di gennaio 2013

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Now Italia Vacanze has adopted a completely new format to respond to the discerning requirements of contemporary tourism and to give enhanced visibility to our country’s tourist attractions.

No longer just a catalogue focused primarily on the promotion of camping sites and distributed at European trade fair events. From today, this publication takes the form of a magazine and presents Italy as the holiday destination par excellence, in all seasons. Because holidaying in Italy is not just about sea or snow, but also comprises cities of art, archaeology, ancient villages, landscapes, fine food and wine, spas, music, fashion and events to enjoy all the year round.

The articles in the magazine put the accent on each Italian region’s historical and artistic features, landscape and food and wine specialities, by addressing three topics: the first describes the distinctive characteristics of the region, followed by a more detailed description of a particular city or area, to conclude with a box dedicated to the typical products of the region featured in the article.

To respond to the tourist’s need for practical information, the magazine will be accompanied by a HOSPITALITY supplement providing a description of accommodation facilities and a visit to the area presented. Space is dedicated to the various facilities (hotels, holidays villages and campsites, holiday farms, B&B) in order to provide a detailed description and a more specifically targeted and exhaustive account of Italy’s tourist offering.

The magazine will also be available on italiavacanze.com, with more extensive editorial contents and detailed information about tourist facilities and structures.

You are now browsing through number “0”, reserved for international tourism trade fairs, which has been published in English and German for the time being. In Spring, after receiving and evaluating your remarks and comments regarding this initiative, for which we thank you in advance, we shall publish the Italian edition for distribution through news-stands, with two numbers focused respectively on the summer and winter seasons.

Have a nice journey!

5

Alto Adige Wedged between the Central Alps, in the

valleys formed by the rivers Adige and Isarco, where mountains are the unquestioned

protagonists. This is South Tyrol, with its

towns of Bolzano and Meran, which ever since ancient times has been at the centre of the most important thoroughfares and, for this same reason, was dotted with towers, citadels and castles during the Middle Ages. The mountain chain of the Dolomites, which stands to the South East, represents the most famous icon of this territory, the natural habitat of marmots, alpine ibexes and golden eagles. A mention is also due to the fine food specialities offered by this territory: the queen of them all is certainly the South Tyrolean apple IGP, cultivated over an area of 18,000 hectares, but don’t forget to taste the local malga cheese (the “Grigio” variety in particular) and speck, typical ingredients of alpine cuisine which team marvellously with the famous Tyrolean wines, products of an age-old tradition.

6

All the magic

of the mountains and

the Middle Ages

SOUTH TYROL

Opposite page: the Lake of Landro, in the Pusteria valley. Top of page from left: the Odle Massif; the Trapp armoury of Castel Coira; the Tappeiner promenade in Meran.

On top of the world, among towers and castles Midst the green woods and sharp rocky peaks, we find towers, castles and battlements to testify to the strategic importance played by South Tyrol in ancient times: these valley routes in the proximity of mountain passes, whose roads served to transport merchandise and culture, had to be defended and protected. The castles, above all, with their stories and legends, allow for a global interpretation of this land.

Castles that tell of battles and knights, such as Castel Coira, in the Venosta Valley, commissioned in the mid 13th century by some Swiss bishops who set up an armoury within its walls, which is still quite impressive today: the prime exhibit of this collection of ancient weapons – the largest private collection in the world – is the huge 15th century suit of armour that once belonged to Ulrich IX of Matsch.

Castles perched high up on rocky crags, like Castel d’Appiano, built at the start of the XII century at a height of 628 m to guard over the Adige Valley, or those which enchant visitors with their decorative Romanic and Gothic frescoes, as in the case of Castel Roncolo at the gates of Bolzano, a city castle that is also classified as an “illustrated manor” thanks to its frescoes, which are some of the most important in the Tyrol.

Castles which wholeheartedly adopt the production of local craftsmen: Castel Tures, located in the valley of the same name, whose 64 rooms are almost entirely wood-panelled and which preserves its medieval wood furniture in excellent condition, and Castel Tasso, rising on a rock in the marsh of Vipiteno (now inexistent), which treasures the late-gothic carved wooden furnishings in its magnificent halls (don’t miss the Green Room) and an extraordinary perforated wooden gate in the Chapel of Saint Zeno.

So these monuments are all quite different from each other, but share the same magnificence, charm, stories, tales, legends and historical characters, to narrate the splendour of this area in Mediaeval times and its importance for Europe as a nerve centre: Castel Forte, in Ponte Gardena, was the birthplace of one of the last poets of courtly love, Oswald von Wolkenstein, who told the stories of feudal life and chivalrous deeds from the Knights Room; or what about Castel Trauttmansdorff

which hosted the Empress Sissy in the nineteenth century during her numerous winter stays, so frequently indeed that the road leading from the castle to the old town centre of Meran is known as “the Sissy Promenade”. The Castle of Castelbello, on the other hand, is a testimony of ancient Roman times with its permanent exhibition “Via Claudia Augusta, a Roman road through the Venosta Valley”, while we are catapulted into the Baroque period with Castel Wolfsthurn, in Racines, the reconstruction of a medieval building standing out from the woods with its charmingly elegant profile, which houses exhibitions of folk art, fun activities for children and the Provincial Hunting and Fishing Museum.

There are over 200 castles in the area around Bolzano: citadels, towers, palaces and stately homes that may all be easily reached by car, but also along the numerous footpaths and the so-called “wine roads”, for trekking and mountain bike enthusiasts or for the lovers of fine food and drink. No matter what their interests are, everyone can enjoy the same scenery, the marvellous mountains surrounding the town, a quartz porphyry volcanic rock formation of an amazing tone of red, and the green expanses of orchards and vineyards.

South Tyrol is also associated with the Ladin language: in Val Badia, the Ciastel del Tor, which hosts the Ladin Museum, also preserves the documentary evidence of the history of this language. However, as South Tyrolean tradition would have it, the “heart of the country” is Castel Tirolo, which has majestically dominated the Meran basin since 1120 as decreed by the Counts of Venosta, later to be called the Counts of Tyrol. A castle which now hosts the Historical and Cultural Museum of the Province of Bolzano and whose name represents the entire identity and cultural autonomy of this area.

Below: Castel Tirolo.

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Bolzano The enchanted town nestling among the mountains Bolzano stands at an altitude of 262 m, and was already mentioned by Paolo Diacono in his Historia Langobardorum under the name of Bauzanum and archeologically documented in the Early Middle Ages, when the city walls were demolished to allow the townspeople, with their strong inclination for commerce, to welcome traders coming from the north and south.

The city parlour is Walther square, onto which the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta faces, and where the statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, the greatest German medieval poet, occupies a dominant position. The town’s symbol is certainly the cathedral bell tower which, from its height of 65 m, represents one of the masterpieces of the international gothic style; the pitched roof with its elegant composition of green, white and yellow tiles is particularly striking and confers a lively aspect to the entire square. Furthermore, positioned on the western façade of the Church stands the so-called “Madonna of speech”, whose miraculous powers are invoked by mothers of children with speech difficulties.

Some marvellous frescoes of the Giotto school may be admired in the nearby Dominican Church, beyond which lies the most ancient part of the city, with its little square called piazzetta delle Erbe, the porticoed street Laubengasse delimited by Gothic buildings and a criss-cross of narrow streets:

Along the wine road Vineyards surrounding the castles, expanses of grapes growing on the flatlands nestling between the mountains: South Tyrolean wine speaks the language of tradition and landscape, as well as innovation. The 16 municipal areas, making up the so-called Wine Road, bring the Wine Festival to life along its 70 km trail every year from May to June.

In the area around Bolzano, the grapes of the robust and velvety Santa Maddalena and the typical

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Lagrein vines come to maturity. In the Oltradige and Val d’Adige vistors must taste the excellent white wines of these areas and rediscover the famous Schiava del Lago di Caldaro, while further south, in Termeno, where it is produced, another not-to-be-missed experience is that of Gewürztraminer, a delicately aromatic wine.

In Caldaro, the Provincial Wine Museum tells the story of the local wine producing tradition.

Province: Bolzano Altitude: 262 m asl Inhabitants: 104 841 Tourist information: Tourist Board, Piazza Walther 8 tel. +39 0471 307000 – www.bolzano-bozen.it

a series of contemporary shops housed in old workshops is a particularly charming sight. It is actually on the street of the Porticos that the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum is situated, showcasing an extremely precious collection of prehistoric and proto-historic engraved stelae statues, but whose unquestioned protagonist is ötzi, the mummy of a hunter who lived over 5000 years ago and discovered on the Similaun glacier, on the border between Italy and Austria at an altitude of over 3213 m. The body of ötzi (whose name means “iceman”) is presented to the public in an innovative manner: it is positioned in a special atmosphere that guarantees its preservation, but visible through small apertures. Visitors will be fascinated by the studies carried out on the tattoos found on the man’s body, as well as the numerous reconstructions of his clothing and equipment supported by detailed explanations of how they were constructed and used. If the man of the Similaun Glacier offers a unique insight into what life used to be like in this area in the Copper Age, it is the famous South Tyrolean alpinist Reinold Messner who, with his MMM “Mountain Messner Museum” describes the emotional relationship between contemporary man and the mountains: a museum project spread over five different facilities, all located in South Tyrol (the main branch has its premises in Castel Firmiano, close to Bolzano) which illustrates the themes associated with mountain sacredness, the world of ice, alpinism on the Dolomites and mountain communities.

The Renon cableway departs from the centre of Bolzano and, in just over a quarter of an hour, reaches the Colle di Villa (Bolzano’s “mountain”), San Genesio and Soprabolzano, where it is possible to visit some interesting geological formations known as “the pyramids of land”. The first 950 m of altitude had already been conquered early in the twentieth century with the “Renon train”, a thoroughly futuristic project at the time which had no equal anywhere in the world.

Back in town, it is possible to admire a rare example of a lowland castle set among the mountains: even today, Castel Mareccio is still surrounded by hectares of vineyards; it was

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first erected in the Middle Ages, but was later given a new look to satisfy the architectural criteria of the 16th century, and is now a location used for events and exhibitions.

Bolzano is also a modern town, and this is quite apparent on passing the Talvera bridge and visiting the districts that were built when it was no longer part of Austria and annexed by Italy. This is the best spot in town to admire the enchanting Dolomite peaks which offer a breathtaking view at any time of the day.

Opposite page: a street in the old town centre of Bolzano.

This page, from the top: a detail of the cathedral roof in Bolzano; Castel Mareccio in Bolzano.

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A land of beauty: spa treatments and wellness It was first frequented by historical personages and cultural celebrities: for its beauty, its nature and the fact that it has always represented an oasis of wellness. In fact, thanks to its oligo mineral waters rich in radon (a highly soluble gas suitable for vasodilatation, anti-inflammatory and decongestion therapies) Meran has plenty to offer to those wishing to enjoy a period of relaxation, wellness or therapy immersed in the splendour of the South Tyrolean landscape.

The first promoter of this idea was the physician, Josef Waibl, who wrote a little book in 1836 praising the beneficial properties of Meran’s air and waters. So, in the first half of the 19th century, the city became a “health” resort: the first hydrotherapeutic centre was built in 1840 and the first centre for medical treatments in 1850. It was Dr. Franz Tappeiner who decided to have a number of subtropical plant species planted in the area, and these continue to confer a rather unique and particular charm to the entire surroundings.

The Empress Sissy made the town very fashionable, so much so that between the end of the 19th and the start of the 20th century it was considered to be the “health” resort par excellence, with over one million overnight stays registered each year. The radon springs were discovered in the thirties: Meran went from being a health resort to a spa, with the opening of new facilities in the seventies and in 2000, supported by a great architectural project which gave Meran a totally new image.

Visitors are immersed in a transparent environment, in which they can admire splendid mountain scenery on all sides, surrounded by an interior design in wood and stone

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On these pages: relaxation and wellness in the spas of South Tyrol.

signed by Thun, and a surface area of over 2000 sq m of spa water. Spoilt for choice, therefore, when it comes to pampering and caring for body and spirit. With specific treatments for arthro-rheumatic, dermatological, vascular, ear, nose and throat, gynaecological and urinary therapies.

And with something to please the whole family, in the way of theme trails and playing grounds. Without forgetting the opportunities for walking (the famous Tappeiner walk is over 3 km long), and discovering the characteristic porticoed streets of South Tyrolean hamlets and cities, dominated by churches (the Medieval cathedral) and castles (dating back to the 15th century).

For those who have set their sights higher, it is possible to start from the 325 m of Meran and proceed towards San Martino in Badia, over 1100 m, characterized by cold mineral waters with a bitter salty taste, and also recommended for various types of treatments, starting from those of the respiratory system. All of which is offered in the simplicity of country-style facilities, for true connoisseurs, where it is possible to get away from it all and abandon oneself to the simple pleasure of well-being.

Also located at an altitude of over 1000 m, at less than two hours from Meran, are the Salomon baths in Rasun Anterselva which exploit the cold water springing from the granitic rocks known for their diuretic and anti-inflammatory properties. An oasis of relaxation in a corner of South Tyrol that is still uncontaminated, surrounded by peaks that rise over 3000 m.

But the spa baths located in the Dolomites are also an excellent opportunity to regenerate body and soul: what better way to rest than in the sulphurous waters of Sesto, after a long walk or a climbing excursion in the mountains.

You just have to choose between a bath in hay or milk. Or, if you prefer, get doused in the most famous and genuine local product, apples.

You can go for a treatment in essential oil of mugo pine, vinasse or chestnut. In South Tyrol, wellness has the scent of nature, mountains, tradition and local produce. In fact, there are treatments with Vipiteno yogurt, or with the novelties of quartz in Val di Vizze, where treatments derive from an ancient tradition.

Without forgetting the numerous Kneipp trails, which con-

sist in walking barefoot over different surfaces in hot and cold water: this natural treatment reduces stress, as well as stimulating the mind and body.

In Tesido, for instance, it is possible to try the Kneipp Rudlbach trail: surrounded by the woods, plunge your feet into 9°C cold stream water, and follow the various stages of the trail as you relax and meditate.

In Upper Pusteria, in Villabassa, there is one of the finest Kneipp trails in the Alps, set in a children’s playground, for family-style relaxation, just like Varna, close to Bressanone, where children may also use the trail designed for playing and exercising.

Moving on to the Val Venosta, the Bear Bath was constructed in 2008 in Solda; it is entirely made from natural materials and looks onto the peaks of Ortles, Zebrù and Gran Zebrù.

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Trentino

Trentino offers a rugged mountain

landscape, the stunning sight of the

Dolomites which have been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, parks and nature reserves, as well as experiences in close contact with nature suitable for all types of visitor. Trentino is dominated by mountains and the region offers all this with the delicate interlude of views of vineyards and orchards as well as the surprising addition of small blue lakes set between the peaks. The area is structured around numerous Alpine valleys (in particular, near the valley of the river Adige). Trento is its most representative city and the region offers visitors a range of small and large towns with rich traditions and enormous tourist appeal.

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A natural

paradise set amidst the mountains

TRENTINO

Opposite page: the Gruppo del Cristallo (Crystal Massif). Top of page from left to right: the Lake of Tovel; vineyards around Arco.

Heart-warming legends of the Trentino area There is an extremely original way of exploring the Trentino area. You could call it “trekking on the trail of legends”: walking, observation and climbing accompanied by stories, traditions and the profound soul of an environment surrounded by rocks and open to the sky. A large hiking trail based on this theme links the Valley of San Martino in Castrozza, the Fassa Valley and the Fiemme Valley. The trail is equipped with clearly marked signs for about 200 km of paths with 9 stops for more detailed exploration.

According to the most popular legend, the Dolomites are also known as the Pale Mountains. During the period of the ancient Kingdom of the Dolomites, when the rock of the mountains had the same colour as the Alps and everything was covered with flowering meadows, lush woods and enchanted lakes, the air was filled with happiness and harmony. In every place, apart from the royal castle, where the king’s son was condemned to live far from his bride, the Moon Princess: he was destined to be blinded by the sight of the bright light of the Moon while she was forced to remain far away from the dark gloomy mountains and from the shaded woods. As he wandered through the woods in desperation, the prince came across the Prince of the Salvans, a gnome in search of a land for his people: in exchange for permission to inhabit these woods with his people, the small king made the mountains of the kingdom shiny. The gnomes worked the whole night long and covered all the rocks with moonlight. The princess was thus able to return to her groom and the Dolomites became the Pale Mountains.

The snow, the mountain, the sun, and the woods are often the main characters of these charming stories which are profoundly linked to the environment and the climate. This is the case of the Snow Princess of the Fassa Valley, who could not be exposed to sunlight because otherwise she would have melted but, at the same time, could not do without the warmth of the mountain: the king therefore decided to abolish the sun from his kingdom and all the inhabitants inverted their lifestyles by sleeping during the day and working during the night. The situation soon became unsustainable and when

the princess learned that she was the cause of the suffering of the kingdom’s inhabitants, she decided to sacrifice herself for her people by going out into the sunshine. In Canazei, the Ombretta Pass (The Pass of the small shadow) still exists today in her memory.

A romantic legend explains why the waters of Lake Tovel in Tuenno turn red once a year: according to the story, Queen Trasenga had decided not to marry to avoid dividing her kingdom. Lavinto, the King of Tuenno, having seen his advances rejected, avenged himself by killing the queen and her army on the shores of the lake whose waters were tinged with the colour of the blood.

Each part of Trentino has its own myths and legends; just enter the towns and villages, listen to the tales of the local inhabitants and find out the origin of the curious names of the mountain peaks: it provides the chance to discover elves, saints, people and magic objects, but in particular an opportunity to encounter nature coming to life.

The Turks and apples Strudel, the typical dessert of the Trentino area, has ancient Turkish origins. The recipe underwent variations and was transformed by the Hungarians into the apple strudel we are familiar with today which soon spread to Austria. It is not hard to imagine how the recipe quickly travelled from Austria to Trentino, where it is now considered the region’s most traditional dish, partly due to the excellent apples grown in the area.

Apples are the crucial ingredient of the filling of this pastry roll which also contains raisins, pine nuts and cinnamon.

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Trento, a city with a thousand different faces

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Province: Trento Altitude: 194 m asl Inhabitants: 117 070 Tourist information: Azienda per il turismo Trento, Monte Bondone, Valle dei Laghi Piazza della Portella, 3 www.apt.trento.it

A lowland city surrounded by mountains, Trento benefits from the presence of the lush green mountains just as a house benefits from its garden. The city’s character, the openness typical of urban centres in the plains, contrasts only slightly with the reserved nature of the typical mountain town: this makes Trento a lively place to visit in any season of the year. Everything revolves around piazza del Duomo, the heart of the city, which was once the centre of religious and civic power, and is still today the main meeting place of the city. The square is dominated by two magnificent buildings: the extraordinary Romanesque Cathedral, dedicated to St. Vigilius, which can be explored by visiting the underground archaeological excavations beneath the paleochristian basilica dedicated to the saint, and the Palazzo Pretorio (town hall) with the medieval Municipal Tower which looks down on the city from the ma-

jestic height of 41 metres. The main monument in the square is the eighteenth century fountain of Neptune, the symbol of the plentiful supply of water available to the city. Another symbol of the city is the so-called Wheel of Fortune, the large rose window in the northern transept of the cathedral where the historic Council of Trent, the bastion of the Counter-Reformation, was held between 1545 and 1563.

It is worth visiting the amazing Castle of Buonconsiglio, the largest and most important monumental complex of Trentino-South Tyrol which, with its mighty walls and towers built over five centuries, houses exceptional collections of art works.

The frescoes in the Torre Aquila, with the portrayal of the Twelve Months, represent one of the most fascinating painting cycles of the late Middle Ages. An alternative itinerary for discovering the city is to follow the frescoed façades of the sixteenth century buildings along the historic road between the Castle of Buonconsiglio and piazza del Duomo. Along this street the Renaissance blends in harmoniously with other architectural styles which, together with the traces of Roman Trento, document the history of the city.

Trento, with Palazzo delle Albere, is also one of the premises of MART, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Trento e Rovereto. The museum is an international showcase of art from Futurism to the present day, with particular attention devoted to new artists and educational initiatives linked to art. A completely different experience is offered by the Museo Tridentino di Scienze Naturali, the city’s natural history museum with sections devoted to biodiversity and geology, which explore the origins of the Dolomite area, explaining the reason for the famous proverb “the place where the Dolomites now stand was once sea”.

Fun and adventure for all the family Opposite page, from the top: Trento, the fountain of Neptune and the Castle of Buonconsiglio. On this page, from the top: kayaking on the river Noce; trekking on the Dolomites.

Any mention of tarzaning, agility forest adventure park, Tibetan bridges, log-rolling, spider nets and action adventure in the heart of the Dolomites just serves to highlight the area’s natural vocation for active holidays and family tourism. There are more than 20 adventure parks in Trentino which provide people of all ages with excitement, fun and the first chance to experience mountain sports. Everything is organised according to stringent safety requirements with the expert assistance of the staff and mountain guides. You will need to pluck up your courage to cross a river hanging in the air or on suspended rope bridges, or to take a daring leap into space!

There are technological versions or more natural versions: tarzaning, for example, refers to walking between trees using ropes (which can also be called “lianas” to stay in a suitably “wild” context), completely in harmony with the forest environment, following a series of breathtaking acrobatic aerial paths. Visitors can also begin “with their heads in the clouds” and slide down to the ground to get a real rush of adrenalin carefully gauged to the age of the participants who can choose among Kid Adventure trails, suitable for small children, Junior trails and paths suitable for adults and “Braves Only”, only advisable for the most daring. The great range of activities also includes the monorail, with the sledge, offering incredibly steep descents and 360 degree turns providing spectacular views of the Trentino fir forests. There are also facilities for anyone interested in learning to climb; these include climbing gyms and vie ferrate (iron paths) to have an initial contact and the right training for these types of sport.

So it’s just a question of gloves, a helmet, harnesses, pulleys and snap-hooks and then … go and have fun!

It isn’t necessary to walk high above the ground to discover the area! There are plenty of routes organised by various associations of mountain guides that will satisfy young people’s desire to be active, play and have fun together while learning to discover nature and the mountain environment with its rich wildlife. From this point of view, the mountain becomes even more stimulating, fun and educational! Especially on foot, during walks and trekking, but also when cycling (various centres offer downhill and mountain bike activities). There is even the opportunity to “ride” the rapids of the Avisio and Roldone rivers and the river Noce with rafting, hydrospeed activities, canyoning and kayaking!

In this case, the essentials include a helmet, swimming costume, wetsuit, life belt and a rubber dinghy... and off you go!

Where to? To Pera, Campitello and Pozza di Fassa, to Arco and to Ponte Rosso–Carisolo, but also to Masi di Cavalese, San Martino di Castrozza and Malè. In Centa San Nicolò there is one of the most well-equipped parks of its kind in Trentino (Acropark), while in Val di Breguzzo there is the largest adventure park in the area (Breg Adventure Park). Visitors can choose Tuenno in the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature Reserve, or Commezzadura in Val di Sole, Tres in Val di Non, Molveno on the plateau of Pradel. There are also the towns of Madonna di Campiglio, Polsa di Brentonico, Vason and Ziano di Fiemme. Lastly, our tip for a truly breathtaking adventure: the sledge run on the Alpine Coaster monorail (in Predazzo Gardonè), rollercoasters at their most mountainous!

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Lago di Garda With an area of 370 km2, it is the largest Italian lake. It is called BenĂ co, but mostly known by everyone as Lake Garda.

A connecting point between the three regions, Lombardia (the Brescia side), Veneto (the Verona side) and Trentino-South Tyrol (the tip to the north), it is developed in parallel to the river Adige, which is divided by the massif of Monte Baldo, and a favourite destination for European tourists. To attract them, the Mediterranean climate, the wide range of entertainment and sports, the wellness oasis, the cuisine and the many artistic and archaeological sites. In short, that air of holidays that you breathe in all year round.

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A small sea among

the mountains

LAKE GARDA

Delights and beauty by the lake The towns on the shores of this small sea, with mild temperatures and bright sunshine, wedged between the mountains in the north and the hills to the south, can be joined by an imaginary line that follows the paths of wine and oil.

The now historic productions from the Riviera of Olives, in fact, have always characterised the landscape of the area, tenaciously keeping up with the ever growing demand for tourist services. You will encounter the grapes of the classic Bardolino wine, olives protected by the consortium that guarantees the quality of extra virgin oil from Garda, but also the white and yellow-fleshed peaches, plums from Dro and the kiwis from the plain of Affi.

Going down the west bank of the lake, the mountain with its overhanging rocks is undisputed master until after Gargnano.

Here the landscape, rich with its olive groves spread on different levels, transforms in the Regional Park of Alto Garda Bresciano, with the characteristic structures of the citrus groves that have made the lake famous in the past.

Today, the production has mostly demonstration purposes; it is up to the enthusiast to search among the numerous small structures that allow you to enjoy some genuine lemons or citrons. Being in the mountains, and overlooking the “sea”, you can not miss out on Garda cheese with all its varieties, hard or soft, mature or fresh. And the truffles, with the best varieties growing wild. In Salò, a pretty and colourful town that recalls the fascist epic, the food industry has known how to take advantage of this production: it was here that the citron was invented.

Changing bank, the lake is transformed into a sort of Nordic fjord: leaving behind the towns of Garda and Torri del Benàco and continuing on the eastern shore, you start to climb up Monte Baldo, where the olive trees give way to alpine vegetation.

The so-called “Botanical Garden of Europe”, reached by cable car from Malcesine and which offers breathtaking views of the lake, combines the typical products of the forest and undergrowth (such as chestnuts and mushrooms) with high level production: goat cheese, honey, herbs and medicinal plants used to produce the typical teas.

Returning to the lake, as you would expect, it is the fish that

Manca dida manca dida

dominates the culinary tradition, with the return of the old traditional flavours.

The lake becomes a sea, Sirmione dominates with its charm, full of history and poetry, with the suggestion of the archaeological remains of the Grotte di Catullo, with the pride of the castle, with the spas that have made its fortune since the end of the nineteenth century. Beyond Desenzano del Garda, the hills towards Lonato del Garda, Castiglione delle Stiviere and Solferino resonate echoes of the battles of the Risorgimento. From the vineyards in this area, three great Garda white wines are also produced: San Martino, Lugana and Bianco di Custoza.

Whichever area of Lake Garda you choose, the option open to the tourist is complete because it will appeal to lovers of nature as well as lovers of the sea and the hills.

Common denominator: the good food, the taste of tradition and the truly unique oasis of products that we would never imagine to find in this part of Italy, but which represent the excellence of the three regions bordering this stretch of water which is there to be discovered.

Opposite page: view of Lake Garda with Monte Baldo in the background.

Above from left to right: vineyards near Pastrengo; the Telegrafo Refuge on Monte Baldo; the Scaligera castle in Sirmione.

Below: a pier overlooking the lake.

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Riva The pearl of Garda Trentino The pearl of Garda Trentino: Riva del Garda, with its Mediterranean climate, great beaches and beautiful landscape, is the resort par excellence. Here sport is the main reason for the holiday: sailing and windsurfing above all, thanks to the warm winds that blow constantly, but also walking, cycling and mountain biking. Lemons, olives and palm trees colour the landscape at the foot of the Brenta Dolomites.

Riva del Garda is also synonymous with art and culture, and a symbol of the history of the town is the Fortress, first mentioned in 1124 and which has grown over the centuries: in the sixteenth century it was a bishop’s residence and in the nineteenth century became the Austro-Hungarian barracks, almost completely losing its medieval and Renaissance features.

From the tower, returned to its original state by recent restorations, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake. The building now houses the Civic Museum, with stele statues from the Copper Age found in the nearby Arco, the remains of the lake-dwelling Ledro culture and the archaeological finds of all the upper Garda. Meanwhile, in the Art Gallery you can admire important works such as paintings by Hayez and sculptures by Vincenzo Vela.

In the historic centre the Apponale Tower also deserves attention, the old site of the market and the control centre of the lake. From a height of 34 m it dominates the Piazza III Novembre and dates back to the thirteenth century, when it

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Province: Trentino Altitude: 65 m asl Inhabitants: 16,170 Tourist information: Ingarda Trentino - Azienda per il Turismo Largo Medaglie D’Oro Al Valor Militare, 5 Tel. +39 0464 554 444 www.gardatrentino.it

was built to guard the port and the square, a former hub of commerce and trade. Since 2002, after the restoration, it has been possible to climb the 165 steps leading to its summit, to enjoy the geometry of the square and the pier that become lost in the blue of the lake. Traces of antiquity can also be seen in the Palazzo Pretorio, in which Roman, medieval and modern stones are located making it possible to trace the history of the village and the lake.

In the shadow of baroque churches and Mediterranean vegetation, intellectuals such as Friedrich Nietzsche, Franz Kafka and the brothers Thomas and Heinrich Mann took inspiration for their works that have marked the history of philosophy and European literature: on the other hand, Lake Garda was a must for the young people of Central Europe who undertook the Grand Tour!

This page: two views of Riva del Garda.

A dish ... on loan The culinary tradition of Lake Garda is inspired by the cuisine of the three regions that mark the boundaries: Lombardia, Trentino-South Tyrol and Veneto. The typical summer dish is from Veneto itself: the bigoi co le aole, i.e. spaghetti colddrawn through a press with the pickled bleak fish. A simple dish, flavoured with a strong taste of the minnows from the lake preserved in salt, which are fried in oil to create a tasty and very traditional fish sauce. Naturally the bigoli pasta is boiled in water with a pinch of salt! Other local varities include bigoli al ragù di pesce (fish sauce), bigoli con le sardèle (sardines), bigoli alla gardesana. The substance does not change, they are always a delight!

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© Gardaland

For a holiday... made for all the

family

This page, clockwise from left: riding mountain bikes on Monte Brione, near Riva del Garda, and two views of the Gardaland amusement park.

© Gardaland

Descents at high speed, breathtaking drops, scenes from movies, amazing gardens: Lake Garda and its surroundings offer the opportunity to experience unique emotions with a wide range of theme parks.

The most famous is Gardaland located in Castelnuovo del Garda, with its 600,000 square metres of extension, full of attractions for all ages, shows and themed villages divided into the Adrenaline, Fantasy and Adventure sections. The first category includes the famous Blue Tornado and Space Vertigo, thrilling experiences of speed and changes in height: they are two of the busiest rides. In the Fantasy category, the fairy tales are unforgettable: Peter Pan, Kaffeetassen and l’Albero di Prezzemolo are just three of the many attractions of this type.

Those who love adventure, however, can not miss the classic Ramses: il Risveglio, the “refreshing” Jungle Rapids or I Corsari.

Within the entertainment complex Canevaworld, in Lazise sul Garda, there is instead Movieland, a completely “cinema” themed park! Also here the attractions follow three different lines: Family, for kids, Adventure, for the whole family, and Action, for those who want to experience great emotions remembering more frightening films.

If the kids have fun travelling on little cars around the circuit of the legendary Route 66, the older ones can enter Magma 2 in trucks, to become protagonists of Police Academy, dive into the London of 1907 with The Illusionist, or get closer to the missions of Zorro and Rambo.

Stuntmen and special effects are guaranteed! Finally, the most fearless are reserved the emotions of Tomb Rider,

Terminator 5 in 5D, U-571 Submarine, the house of horrors and the scream-filled descent from the Hollywood Action Tower.

If you prefer water parks, here you’ll be spoiled for choice. The largest is Caneva Aquapark, structured in the same way as Movieland (Family, Adventure, Action sections).

Nestled in the green hills of Verona, in a natural area of 64,000 square metres, the sports centre and water park Picoverde di Custoza offers tranquillity for adults and an area with water slides for children.

Founded in 1978, the Parco Acquatico Cavour in Valeggio sul Mincio offers Water Lagoon, the beach Mare, the wellness route, the event ship Camillo Show, the Paradise Island completely carved into the rock with slides and pools on different levels, the area Magic Sand devoted to sand castles and Iceberg, where you can slide in the Ice Age. There are, finally, some opportunities for those who want to venture between vines, Canadian bridges and air routes: tourists can enjoy the new Parco Avventura in San Zeno di Montagna, the Parco Natura Viva in Bussolengo (zoo and safari) and the wonderful Parco Giardino Sigurtà in Valeggio sul Mincio, one of the most extraordinary in the world for the blooms of the tulips, roses and water lilies, including hedge mazes and endless grassy plains to cross on foot or by bicycle.

Something for the whole family!

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Lombardia

As well as being the economic heartland of Italy, Lombardy has been a destination for high quality tourism since the seventeenth century. The region extends from the Alps to the wine-producing hills, from the large lakes to its rivers and canals, to the agricultural plain and the urban area of Milan: this is Lombardy, with its varied landscape and many different historical, artistic and productive traditions. The region has much to offer for different types of tourist, people travelling for work and business reasons or for people who are passionate nature-lovers or wish to follow the traces of literary figures. There are also opportunities to swim in the lakes as well as a wide range of activities in the fields of culture, fashion, art and design, not to mention the trade shows and other important events. Visitors also have the chance to explore the rural traditions of the plain of Lombardy.

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A region with a thousand

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LOMBARDY

Opposite page: a view of Bergamo. Above, from left to right: the Po Valley in the province of Brescia; Piazza Duomo in Cremona; mountain cycling around Livigno.

From the plains to the mountains: places of artistic, natural and historical interest Observing the region from south to north, the mixture of different types of landscape emerges very clearly. The starting point is the Oltrepò area at the southernmost tip of the region; as its name suggests, Oltrepò lies to the south of Italy’s most important river which, for most of its course, marks the boundary between Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. Oltrepò, which has links with Pavia to the west and Mantua to the east, is associated with the tradition of vine cultivation and wine-making in the hills, offering a fascinating experience to tourists who are interested in food and wine, especially if they enjoy traveling by bicycle or motorbike: the so-called “vineyard trail” in the Pavia area, which mainly passes through the Versa and Scuropasso valleys, is ideal for admiring the long and splendid rows of vines which form perfect geometrical patterns on the hill slopes.

The trail passes through many small towns and villages, studded with wineries, holiday farmhouses and restaurants where visitors can relax and enjoy local food and wine traditions to the full. You only need to go slightly further north to reach the old capital of the Lombard kingdom: the city with the famous roofed bridge, Pavia, which the Romans used to call Ticinum (the name refers to its location where the Ticino flows into the river Po). Pavia is not the only Lombard city that can boast a thousand year history: Cremona was the scene of many important events in medieval times and has some beautiful and striking monuments, such as the city hall known as“il Torrazzo” and the architectural complex of the Cathedral and the Baptistery; Mantua, with its splendid palaces (Palazzo Ducale and Palazzo Te), can take tourists on a fascinating journey straight into the age of the splendour, art and pomp of the Gonzagas; Brescia has an extraordinary archaeological site called Santa Giulia which has become an extremely popular destination and is the subject of a prestigious museum display; Bergamo, the city split in two, is still to this day accompanied by the hundred tolls of the bell in the tower in Piazza Vecchia in Bergamo Alta; the bell tolls each day at 10.00 pm marked the closure of the city gates.

The list of places of interest, both large and small, is almost endless; every town and city in Lombardy has an ancient history which is borne out by the importance and productivity of the region. Between the fifth and sixth century BC, a city was founded in the heart of the plain of Lombardy; its Latin name was Mediolanum, and, under its modern name, Milan, the economic capital of Italy. Further to the north, the landscape is totally different: the cultivated areas of the plain lead to the hill country which heralds the Alps and delights visitors with its stunning lakes. From Lake Maggiore, you come to the delightful lakes of Varesotto, before immerging yourself in the pages of history of Lake Como. Visitors to Lake Iseo will be astonished at the sight of the largest lake island, Montisola, and will be equally stunned by Lake Garda, an area with a Mediterranean climate wedged between the mountains.

The varied landscapes of Lombardy end with the Alpine peaks, the destination of winter sports throughout the year, with the famous towns of Livigno, Bormio and Santa Caterina Valfurva, fashionable resorts surrounded by large nature reserves and valleys, such as Valtellina and Val Camonica, which bear the archaeological traces left by their ancient inhabitants.

A thousand places, a thousand tastes The landscape is incredibly varied and the many different culinary traditions reflect these differences: the quintessential symbol of Lombardy is the golden risotto which takes its name from the rice-growing plain that stretches from Milan to the areas of Lomellina, the area around Pavia and towards Novara and Vercelli. Visitors can travel up into the valleys to discover a series of traditional dishes that are influenced by mountain traditions, from special pasta called pizzoccheri to the famous polenta. There is also a chance to taste the specialities of the lakes where dishes are based on freshwater fish and olives and “Mediterranean” olive oil. The food is accompanied by excellent wines of Lombardy (the best wines are made by the wineries of Oltrepò Pavese and Franciacorta).

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Milan, a metropolis with a thousand-year old history

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Province: Milan Altitude: 122 m asl Inhabitants: 1 348 769 Tourist information: IAT r Piazza Castello, 1 corner Via Beltrami Tel +39 02 7740 4343 r Central railway station Departure area platforms 13/14 - Tel +39 02 7740 4318/4319 www.milano.turismo.it

Above: the Needle and Thread sculpture in Piazza Cadorna. Below: Piazza Duomo.

It has been defined as“Milan to drink up”and the“capital of fashion and design”. However, the city was also the capital of the Roman empire, as well as host to the most important political and religious powers, until it eventually became the financial centre of Italy. Milan’s importance (it is the second largest Italian city after Rome) is symbolised by the statue of the “Madonnina”, on the highest spire of the Duomo, the city’s cathedral. This inspired Milan’s unofficial anthem Oh mia bela Madunina, the folk song that has given worldwide fame to the city’s core values, its frenetic activity and careful solidarity: “Milàn l’è ’n gran Milàn” (Milan is a great Milan). Besides the Duomo, the city’s symbols include the Biscione, the symbol of the Visconti family who ruled the city and the surrounding region for many centuries during the Middle Ages: a dragon in the shape of a snake with a young boy in its mouth, which gave rise to many legends and stories about the origin and the events of the city in ancient times. Visitors can choose different ways of visiting Milan. There is the archaeological approach to the city which begins from beneath Piazza Duomo and eventually reaches the Columns of San Lorenzo,

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passing by the Imperial Palace of Maximilian, the necropolises in the courtyards of the Catholic University, the Baths, the streets and the numerous ruins that emerged during the excavations to build the underground railway lines. It is also worth visiting the medieval and renaissance city of Milan, which begins from the Romanesque basilica par excellence, the basilica of St. Ambrose, with its gabled façade and the colonnaded courtyard, and ends up with the Sforza Castle, which now includes some of the city’s museums. Moreover, visitors can discover the technological side of Milan whose origins can be traced back to the fifteenth century plan of the Canals (Navigli) designed by Leonardo da Vinci when he was in the court of Ludwig the Moor, which now aspires to events and creations with increasingly “smart”technology (thanks partly to the planned event EXPO 2015).

The Navigli (the name used for the canals of Milan) are now undergoing major redevelopment for the purposes of tourism, as well as becoming the location for trendy nightlife. Visitors can continue following the trail of Leonardo by seeing the Last Supper (Cenacolo), one of the key symbols of Italian art in the world, the Ambrosian Library where the Atlantic Code is kept, and the National Museum of Science and Technology with the reconstructions of machines designed by Leonardo. The exploration of Milan continues century by century, topic by topic, and character by character, from the site of the siege of the bakery described by Alessandro Manzoni in the Promessi sposi - The Betrothed (it is also possible to visit Manzoni’s house with the adjoining museum) to the portraits by Hayez on display in the Pinacoteca di Brera (art gallery), from the Monumental Cemetery to the modern setting of contemporary sculpture in Piazzale Cadorna. There is also the Nuovo Polo Fieristico (Trade show complex) in Milan (built in Rho in the north-western outskirts of the city), the shopping streets (the so-called “Quadrilatero della moda” or “four-sided shopping district”), the fashion shows, the art exhibitions, and the streets associated with nightlife. This is Milan.

Lake Como, the pleasure residences Made famous by celebrities (from the worlds of cinema and politics) who in recent decades have chosen it as the ideal place for their holiday homes, Lake Como boasts a much older tradition of hospitality for the “stars”: it is necessary to go back in time to find illustrious visitors to the area; they included the scions of the leading aristocratic families of Europe and artists, from painters and poets to musicians (Stendhal, Byron and Liszt just to mention a few) who came for the customary “Journey to Italy”. These visitors stopped off at Lake Como during the Grand Tour, the journey undertaken by the young nobles of continental Europe towards the south where, immersed in the sunshine and the aura of history, they could get inspiration and enjoy the beneficial effects of the Italian climate. It is hardly surprising to find the coastline of this lake, with its curious upturned Y-shape, dotted with large, sumptuous villas with a romantic appearance: the monumental Villa d’Este, Villa Erba and Villa Pizzo in Cernobbio, the elegant Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi in Bellagio. In Lenno, beside the so-called “Bay of Venus”, stands Villa Balbianello, one of the many buildings that is part of FAI (Italian National Trust Fund) where scenes from the films Piccolo Mondo Antico and Casino Royale were shot.

In Tremezzo, one of the classic sites of interest is Villa Carlotta with its splendid garden and the museum that contains works

by Canova and Hayez.

The city of Como offers a two hour walk along the lakeshore which is overlooked by numerous neoclassical residences built between the eighteenth and nineteenth centry, including Villa Saporiti, now the premises of the provincial government,

known as “la Rotonda” due to the elliptical shape of the central room which protrudes from the rest of the building. At the end of the walk, you encounter the sight of the most illustrious of all the neoclassical villas, Villa Olmo, built by Marchese Odescalchi in neoclassical style and now the property of the council, which organises prestigious conferences and exhibitions.

Apart from the worldly pleasures of the past and present, the lush coastline has an aura of history, such as the small town of Brenno or the small island of Comacina, which in medieval times housed the castle which was allied with Milan during the long war against Como. Olives grow plentifully on the island, so that the bay is known as “Zoca de l’oli” (“valley of olive oil”).

The Sacro Monte di Ossuccio – a religious complex and UNESCO World Heritage Site together with other Sacri Monti in Lombardy and Piedmont - overlooks this side of the lake. The complex contains 230 statues made of terracotta and stucco arranged in 15 chapels devoted to the mysteries of the Rosary which lead to the Shrine of Our Lady of Succour (Santuario della Beata Vergine del Soccorso).

The unusual shape of Lake Como has always stimulated the imagination of the local inhabitants, to the extent that it has been described as “a man with one leg in Lecco and another in Como, his nose in Domaso and his backside in Bellagio”. The wonderful natural environment is unspoilt by human intervention and provides the perfect place for a relaxing holiday. There are many opportunities to take part in a wide range of activities, from water sports (sailing, scuba diving, windsurfing and water skiing) to mountain sports (trekking, free climbing), as well as many outdoor and indoor sports that exploit the morning wind from the north (known as “il Tivano”) and the afternoon wind from the south (known as “la Breva”). Most places are well-equipped from this point of view and the sporting ethos is extremely important in the area, as can be seen from the numerous facilities and a longstanding tradition of athletes who have established a worldwide reputation.

Above: Villa d’Este in Cernobbio.

Left: a view of Bellagio.

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Veneto

The most beautiful mountain peaks in the world, the most extensive uplands of Italy, fascinating itineraries

through fortified medieval villages

and vineyards. But there are also great art cities and the medieval or renaissance atmospheres of local festivals, art treasures and prestigious theatre events. And what about its waterways, with river tourism that goes from one Palladian villa to another, Lake Garda that looks onto this region and the Po delta with its unique natural environment waiting to be explored by bicycle, as well as the sea coast and beaches offering all

A kaleidoscope of emotions

the fun and charm typical of the lagoon towns. In brief, this is Veneto: now discover it for yourself!

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VENETO

Opposite page: the Lake of Auronzo. Top of page from left to right: Asiago; a trench on the Dolomites; Chioggia.

From the Uplands to the Lagoon: corners of Veneto waiting to be discovered Called the Upland “of the Seven Communes”, but also known as the upland of Asiago after the name of its main town: this is the most extensive upland in Italy and occupies the Vicenza Alps, marking the border with the region of Trentino. In ancient times, a large part of this territory used to be subdivided into seven districts organized as an independent federation (the most ancient social organization in the world comparable to a modern federal state) called the Spettabile Reggenza dei Sette Comuni (the Honourable Regency of the Seven Communes) which, up until the advent of Napoleon, gravitated around the influence of Venice.

Today, the Communes are now eight and come under the provincial government of Vicenza.

History enthusiasts will find in Veneto a great open air museum of First World War sites: in fact, an important trekking excursion has been organized with the support of a number of historical associations grouped under the“1915/18 Open Air Museums - First World War on Monte Grappa”Association, whose headquarters is in Romano d’Ezzelino. Indeed, in recent years, numerous objects dating back to the First World War have been recovered, particularly in Valle Santa Felicita where the excursion begins, in Col Campeggia and in Col Andreon. The natural point of arrival of this long challenging walk is the Military Shrine of Cima Grappa, where the remains of over 10,000 war victims are buried.

Travelling south, the landscape changes radically when you start to penetrate the six hectares of the San Donà di Piave fluvial park, a natural oasis on the left bank of the river Piave whose landscape reflects the spontaneous growth of shrubs and clusters of riverside trees which confer an uncontaminated and natural aspect to the area. About 40 years ago, this natural complex was originally covered with the residual stubs of poplars used for industrial purposes and was subsequently replanted with more wood producing poplars, a surrounding border of black locust trees and a wood of white poplar, black poplar, plane trees and white willow, thanks to a natural reforestation process. Equipped with river moorings and boat towing facilities (from San Donà it is possible to navigate as far as the mouth of the river Piave), the Park offers rough paths and playing fields, as well as leisure and

picnic areas. For those interested in the history of this land, the excursion can take in a visit to the Regional Land Reclamation Museum “Ca’ Vendramin” which describes the transformation of this territory from ancient times to the present day. Finally, with its many ramifications and lagoons, the Po Delta makes a distinctive mark on the vast territory of the Province of Rovigo which looks out onto the Adriatic sea. This area is one of the vastest wetlands in Europe, 120 sq km of which are protected by the Po Delta Regional Park of Veneto. At just a short distance away, for those seeking an original and intense experience, the Adria racing circuit with its Adria International Raceway is within easy reach.

Any description of Veneto must necessarily include its art cities: the mere mention of Verona, Padua, Vicenza, Treviso, Rovigo and Belluno will show how art and history may constitute an interesting leitmotiv for exploring this region, from its uplands to the lagoon, casting a fascinated glance at its gigantic mountains as you travel through the hills. Verona, the city of love and theatre: the Arena, together with Juliet’s house, attracts millions of visitors every year. Likewise Padua, with its numerous visitors, where the Basilica of Saint Anthony is the destination of a constant and frequent stream of pilgrims coming from all over Italy and abroad.

The other towns in the region are strikingly elegant and hospitable, thanks to centuries of transformation and an ever growing offering of tourist hospitality services.

A Nobel Prizewinner on the Upland In the area of Asiago during the First World War, the eighteen-year-old future Nobel prizewinner for literature, Ernest Hemingway, worked as an ambulance driver: he was enrolled as a volunteer by the US Red Cross, and was appointed to the IV Section of the US International Red Cross with the Lanificio Cazzola in Schio. Wounded in battle, Hemingway was decorated with the silver Medal of Military Valor and the American War Merit Cross for having rescued other wounded soldiers, after being hit himself. His novel Farewell to Arms was inspired by his experience in Veneto and his hospital recovery in Milan.

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Walled cities and cities on water On this page, from the top: Feltre; Burano. Opposite page, from the top: theatre performance at the Arena in Verona; the Castle of Soave; Villa Almerico Capra in Vicenza.

To admire the best preserved city walls of Italy, you have to go to Castelfranco Veneto. It is one of the so-called “walled cities”, those medieval towns that are still steeped in the atmosphere of a glorious past. When you stroll through its narrow streets at dusk, the illuminated castle is a fairytale presence, contributing to augment the mythical aura surrounding this town, which also derives from its having been the birthplace of the enigmatic and extraordinary artist, Giorgione, in the fifteenth century.

Pieve di Cadore, on the other hand, situated at the farthest point north of the region, is the most important town of the entire Cadore and the birthplace of the painter Tiziano Vecellio.

The Cadore area, as well as being the most direct route towards the Dolomite peaks, is known worldwide for its eyewear production and in Pieve itself stands the Eyewear Museum, where splendid collections are showcased to narrate the history of this invaluable aid from the Middle Ages to the present day. Getting back to the walled cities, Cittadella also preserves its city walls intact, whose irregular elliptical shape is broken by as many as 36 towers! Of these, the Tower of Malta (today the premises of

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an archaeological museum) is even mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy.

From art and literature, let’s take a look at history: in the fascinating landscape of the Euganei Hills, Este was the main settlement of the ancient inhabitants of Veneto in the Iron Age but still preserves visible fortified traces of domination, first by the Este family and later by the Carraresi. Then, the place where Carlo Goldini, the famous playwright, made his stage debut is Feltre, a town perched on a hill, which hosts the old “Teatro de la Sena”. During the first week of August, the little town provides the backdrop for an enthralling palio which enacts its spontaneous submission to the Republic of Venice. Leaning on the piedmont flat that extends towards the Brenta river, stands the town of Marostica with its city walls linking the upper and lower castles, and forming a panoramic walk known as Sentiero dei Carmini (the Carmini footpath). The highest expression of tradition in this town is the famous Game of Chess played with living personages, the enactment of a medieval event which takes place every two years on the second Friday, Saturday

and Sunday of September, inspired by the legend of two noble warriors who, in the mid-15th century, both fell in love with a beautiful chatelaine and challenged each other to a game of chess, since duelling was forbidden. Finally, Soave, enclosed by walls erected by the Scaligeri, is famous for its white wine made from the garganega grapes cultivated on the surrounding hills, which is celebrated in May during the “Medieval Festival of Soave white wine”.

And of course, there is no shortage in Veneto of cities on water: Venice the “Serenissima”, is just one of them! Chioggia is “the other Venice”, which experiences the same phenomenon of high tide and stands on a sort of island intersected by narrow streets, squares and canals, the most important of which is the Canal Vena.

In Bassano del Grappa, the Bridge of the Alpini is a famous landmark, and the subject of a famous alpine song; this allwooden structure was designed by Palladio so that it would be flexible enough to withstand the river Brenta in flood, and was rebuilt after the Second World War.

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Venice, the eternally splendid “Serenissima” Venice is mirrored in the Lagoon water and its reflection enraptures visitors, for the beauty of its streets and its canal bridges, for the colours that dialogue between sky and water, for the crowds that throng to monuments and artworks of immense importance, for the picturesque impact of gondolas and gondoliers. St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco), the throbbing heart of this city, takes its name from the famous Basilica of St. Mark, built in an oriental style with its traditional gilded mosaics and surmounted by five Byzantine cupolas. The vast square opens up towards the lagoon on one side and is delimited on its other sides by the high bell tower and the fine historical buildings of the Old and New Procuratie and the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale).

At just a short distance away, stands the elegant and not-tobe-missed Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), which is a compulsory stop on the romantic gondola rides which always go up the Grand Canal and through the entire city. The main waterway is crossed by the Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto), the symbol of this city, characterized by colourful artisanal workshops and one of the busiest points in town with the constant coming and going of tourists. Visitors have to experience Venice on foot, by getting lost in its intricate maze of narrow streets, in the ups and downs of bridges, to discover the Baroque treasures of Santa Maria della Salute and the Academy Galleries which house the masterpieces of 14th and 18th century Venetian artists, and the School of St. Rocco with its extraordinary collection of works by Tintoretto.

But Venice also stands for modern, contemporary and avantgarde art, as testified by the events put on in Palazzo Grassi and at the Venice Biennial.

Summer in the city offers plenty of opportunities: from visiting art collections to climbing the bell tower to take in the breathtaking view of the intricate weave of narrow streets and canals in the historic town centre. From the Sansovino loggia, just under the top of the bell tower with its total height of 98.6 metres, which may be reached in a few seconds by elevator, it is possible to get a close up view of the Marangona (the largest bell that announced the start and end of the working day in the dockyard), the Nona (which tolls at midday), the Trottiera (the bell that used to call the nobles to council meetings) the Pregadì (that announced Senate meetings) and the Renghiera (whose sole purpose was to announce capital executions).

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Province: Venice Altitude: 2,54 m asl Inhabitants: 269.743 Tourist information: Tourist Board Palazzetto Carmagnani - San Marco, 2637 Tel. +39 041 5298711 - www.turismovenezia.it

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Opposite page: a view of St. Mark’s Square. On this page, clockwise: the Bridge of Sighs; gondolas going along the Riva degli Schiavoni; the Rialto Bridge.

It is possible to catch the ferryboat and take in the three marvellous islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello, to admire the numerous blown glass workshops (on the first), the brightly coloured houses with their displays of white lace (on the second), and the extraordinary Romanic complex of Santa Maria Assunta and Santa Fosca (on the third). Then, if you happen to be in town on the third Sunday of July, you will be lucky enough to see the Feast of the Redeemer, which combines religion with folklore, thanks to a firework display that attracts thousands of visitors on Saturday night: in the incomparable setting of St. Mark’s Basin, the play of light and reflections trace a kaleidoscope of colours standing out against the spires, cupolas and steeples of the city. According to tradition, at sunset, boats decorated with greenery, coloured balloons and fairy lights, start to gather in the Basin of St. Marks and the Canal of the Giudecca, dominated by a Palladian Church built in 1577, to thank the Redeemer for the end of the plague.

Cinema enthusiasts cannot possibly miss the International Cinema Festival at the start of September, with its film projections, a great contest, tributes to the outstanding names

of cinema history and, why not, the chance to glimpse some VIPs on the red carpet; all of which is topped by the possibility to enjoy the fashionable city beach, the Lido, whose first bathing establishment, set among natural sand dunes, dates back to 1857.

Besides, on the first Sunday in September, how could you miss the Historical Regatta, in which the century-old “Venetian rowing” technique is put to the test in a series of four competitions (subdivided by age group and type of boat); the most renowned and exciting of these is the regatta of gondola champions who dart down the Grand Canal towards the finishing line in front of the famous“machine”, a spectacular floating platform positioned in front of the Ca’ Foscari palace. The regatta is even more spectacular today with a historical procession that precedes the races: dozens and dozens of typical 16th century multicoloured boats take part in a parade with their gondoliers dressed in period costumes, transporting the Doge, his wife and the most eminent Venetian magistrates, in a faithful reconstruction of the glorious past of one of the most powerful and influential Maritime Republics of the Mediterranean.

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In the name of

relaxation and fun They call it the “gold coast”, for the colour of its endless beaches and the tourist industry that has grown up around it in the course of the centuries. In fact, millions of tourists arrive every year from all over Europe to crowd the bathing establishments of Veneto: families with children seeking peace and quiet and efficient services, young people and teenagers who want to live their holiday to the full, all around the clock, sports enthusiasts and nature lovers, foodies looking to explore new and traditional flavours, elderly people who appreciate comfort and relaxation. Linked together by rows of coloured beach umbrellas, Rosolina Mare, Jesolo, Eraclea, Porto Santa Margherita, Caorle and Bibione each have their own distinct identity and tourist offering but share the same entrepreneurial spirit and desire to pamper tourists. Rosolina Mare, for instance, which is located on the edge of the Po Delta region, and very close to the mouth of the Adige river, has maintained intact its wild natural environment, similarly to the nearby Island of Albarella: midst kilometres of cluster pines and migratory birds, these stretches of water, which extend as far as the eye can see, help create the sort of regenerating holiday atmosphere that is perfect for the more introspective tourist. Once past Veni-

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Traditional tastes This Venetian dish par excellence, Sarde in Saòr (sardines in sweet and sour sauce), is an ancient recipe dating back to the fifteenth century.

A humble fishermen’s dish which keeps well thanks to an extra dose of flavour: saòr in fact means “flavour”, that sweet and sour taste which enhances the humble sardine. You start by gutting and cleaning the fish (without removing its tail), and then go on to dust it in flour and fry it in peanut oil. Cover the fish with onions from Chioggia, which you have previously fried gently in oil and flavoured with sugar, vinegar, sultanas and pine nuts. After a couple of days the saòr sauce will be just right and the dish may be served with slices of white polenta.

ce with its Lido, you encounter the “Cavallino” coast, dotted with lively campsites and animated by numerous festivals that give a “folkloristic” touch to the holiday mood. Then comes Jesolo, characterized by lidos and pinewoods, water sports and well-organized excursions to the “Serenissima”. Small boats, fishing nets and cabins made from wood and bamboo cane (the so-called “casoni”) distinguish the beaches of Caorle, which has successfully combined this traditional aspect with the more contemporary trend of seaside fitness centres and numerous discotheques for enjoying a holiday by the sea, day and night. The Church of Our Lady of the Angel, standing on the rocks near the sea, recalls the seagoing spirit of the people

of Caorle, who have made their living from fishing for centuries. Those who wish to see this part of the coast from a boat will find one of the largest ports of the Adriatic sea at Porto Santa Margherita (just a few kilometres from Caorle), with a mooring capacity for 800 vessels, while Duna Verde, the “park” of Caorle, provides plenty of amusement facilities. In the area surrounding Caorle the presence of a great Acquapark, a complex built in 1990 in a green oasis, is a real attraction for families and young people.

Bibione has a similar landscape, it stands out for its dual tourist offering of relaxation and fun; known as “Tuttaspiaggia”, it is subdivided into Bibione Spiaggia, Lido del Sole and Bibione Pineda, and is considered to be the most important seaside resort on the coast of Veneto, located close to the Friuli-Venezia Giulia border. In proximity to the lighthouse, the symbol of this town, a very popular spa centre has been running since 1996, where mud bath treatments are dispensed.

At the opposite end of the coast, at Sottomarina di Chioggia, no visitor can miss the 10 kilometre walk along the beach leading to the well-known Isolaverde. All in all, this coastline offers about 90 kilometres of crystal clear water (a Blue Flag area since 2010), with beach facilities and services of all kinds, comprising a wide selection of centres for practising various sports: windsurf, sailing, diving activities, beach volley, golf, archery, cycling and horse riding excursions. Wherever you are on this coast, your evenings will be animated by restaurants, pizza parlours, pubs, discotheques, lounge bars, penny arcades and amusement parks. The ideal beaches for relaxing and entertaining holidays at a stone’s throw from historical and artistic treasures of international importance, without forgetting the delicious traditional cuisine offered by this region.

Opposite page, from the top: the beach of Eraclea Mare; a view of Jesolo and its coast.

Above: a jetty of Chioggia Sottomarina at dusk.

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Friuli Venezia Giulia A corner of Italy which in the course of history has experienced troubled events, but from each of those

difficult times has known how to obtain lifeblood. Of this past, the territory bears archaeological, historical, artistic, linguistic and traditional traces. Friuli-Venezia Giulia, due to its strategic location, was a place of obligatory passage and economic and cultural exchange, on the most wedged gulf in the Adriatic Sea, touched by the Bora wind, which reaches speeds of more than 160 km/h, protected by the spectacular Dolomite mountains, with an underground world all to be discovered. And with cities of art which, over the centuries, have often breathed “European� air.

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At the edges

of the territory, in the centre of history

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

The fascination of a border land The Celts, Romans and Lombards have passed through. And then the Venetians and the Habsburgs. The signs of these passages are visible in the great works of art that still characterise the large and small cities in the region, with a dense weave of ages and history. Trieste, the capital, is a cosmopolitan city: it is not difficult to find evidence from the past and present of the different religions (Catholics, Orthodoxes, Jews, Evangelicals, Waldenses). Gorizia is the “garden city”, Pordenone the “city of porticoes”, while Udine has maintained the elegant appearance of the venetian and liberty city. But it is the smaller cities that hold some real surprises. Aquileia, for example, is considered a second Rome in terms of the quantity, quality and size of the archaeological Roman and paleochristian remains that are preserved and can be visited: in the basilica is the largest paleochristian decorative cycle mosaic floor in the whole West!

And while we are on this subject, Spilimbergo is home to the Friuli Mosaic School, known throughout the world for the refinement of its production. The Lombard temple of Cividale is amazing and truly unique, a jewel of eighth century AD art with ancient frescoes, elaborate stucco decorations and different registers of high - reliefs that make it unique: justifiable pomp, if you think that Cividale was home to the first Lombard Duchy of Italy. Still in Cividale you can take a leap back several centuries: not so far from the little temple, in fact, visitors can admire a Celtic Hypogeum consisting of several connected rooms, underground, cut into the rock, containing three mysterious stone masks that represent faces and the recesses in which the urns of high ranking people were placed.

For other pleasant surprises you should go to Sesto al Reghena where there is an air of the Middle Ages (the Abbey is a real jewel of medieval architecture) or Palmanova, a fortress city with nine points, or Venzone, a fortified village dominated by the castle but made famous due to the many mummies found in the crypt of the former chapel of San Michele, in front of the Duomo: today we can observe five, but originally there were almost forty. The first discovery, in 1647, was that of the “Hunchback” mummy, named in this way not because of the obvious physical defect that seemed to characterise the body that was found, but due to the gibbous shape caused by improper burial. The phenomenon of mummification in Venzone is possibly thanks to a fungus that grows in the tombs of the Duomo, the parasitic

mould Hipha Bombicina Pers which can dehydrate the body in a year and make the skin pergameneous.

You enter into full Venetian spirit with the city of Codroipo, where the very well known Villa Manin is located, the last residence of the doges of Venice, and Sacile, known as the “Garden of the Serenissima” along the river Livenza.

The town of Muggia tells a different story, an ancient IstrianVenetian village, which maintains the characteristics and memories of a strip of land and a peninsula (now mostly Croatian) populated since ancient times by Istrians and Venetians. Muggia is the only Istrian city, on Italian soil, predominantly Italian (San Dorligo della Valle, a little further inland, is an Italian town but mostly Slovenian): Italians in Istria generally speak, as well as Italian (now protected as a language in Slovenia and Croatia too), also two distinct indigenous languages of Romance origin: the Istroveneto and Istriot, the first considered a variety of the Veneto-Friuli dialect, the second a local evolution of Vulgar Latin with Venetian, Dalmatian and Slavic influences. It’s worth a stop in Muggia, for its beauty, overlooking the Gulf of Trieste, but also to pay homage to the value of citizenship in the partisan struggle for freedom.

Opposite page: the incredibly long coastline of Lignano Sabbiadoro. Above from left to right: the ruins of Aquileia; detail of a fresco in the small Lombard church of Cividale del Friuli; aerial view of Palmanova. Below: the Abbey of Sesto al Reghena.

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The Trieste of coffee, intellectuals and a thousand cultures Province: Trieste Altitude: 2 m asl Inhabitants: 202.563 Tourist information: A.i.a.t. Trieste Piazza Unità d’Italia 4/b Tel. +39 040 3478312 www.turismofvg.it

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There are many ways to visit Trieste, a city with one eye on the Adriatic and the other on the harsh karstic promontory. You can experience the city of the sea, with the piazza dell’Unità which is among the prettiest and widest maritime squares in the world, where the sea crosses the border of the city with unique elegance and harmony.

You can also choose to discover Trieste following the architectural trail, to admire the simple and natural combination of Baroque and neoclassical buildings with Art Nouveau and eclectic constructions, in an exclusive co-existence with Roman ruins and Habsburg style.

One of the most curious and satisfying options, however, is the circuit of pubs, bars, cafés and shops: in the typical “osmizze”, Vitovska is drunk (a typical Slovenian white wine, perfect with fish and light hors d’oeuvres) and Terrano (dry red wine with a low alcohol content that is produced in the Trieste area from grapes grown in red soil, mentioned by Pliny and used by the Romans), suitable to accompany cold meats, game and meat

in general. You can also enjoy a jota soup, with beans, potatoes and sauerkraut, with clearly German roots.

To live as the people of Trieste do, one must explore the city by way of the coffee shops. The first were opened in the eighteenth century imitating the fashionable shops in Venice, but from the outset with unique characteristics, with traits of Vienna: the city, the emporium in the middle of Europe, could offer a variety of beverages and spices from the north and south.

They soon formed the first coffee houses frequented by Austrian civil servants and officers, the bourgeois cafés and the famous literary cafés. In the old piazza dei Negozianti, for example, is the Caffè Tommaseo, founded in 1830 and now a privileged meeting-place for artists: ice cream was introduced here for the first time! Created as a typical Austrian-Hungarian establishment, decorated with mirrors and stucco, the Caffè Stella Polare was a meeting place for local and foreign intellectuals. The Caffè degli Specchi, in Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, in the heart of the city, was established in 1839 and because of its position immediately became a favourite place to follow all the historical, political, economic and cultural events in the city. After the Second World War it was requisitioned by the Anglo-Americans Allies and from that moment the insignia of the Royal Navy has been positioned inside. If from 1863 the Caffè Tergesteo (in front of the Teatro Verdi) was attended by businessmen from the nearby stock exchange, the Caffè San Marco, which opened in 1914, became a laboratory for the preparation of false passports for the anti-Austrian patriots who fled to Italy. Completely destroyed by the Austrians during the First World War, it was later rebuilt in the twenties to become a meeting place for many intellectuals in Trieste such as Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. Inside, the typical atmosphere of the Viennese café: the inlaid wooden bar, the medallions on the walls, the marble tables with cast iron legs, mirrors and frescoes. Finally, a mention for the most frequent visitor to the Caffé Pasticceria Pirona: the writer James Joyce, who designed his Ulisse here.

In short, between the Miramare Castle, built in the mid-nineteenth century by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg, the Fountain of the Four Continents, the Arco di Riccardo and the Cathedral of San Giusto, there will certainly be time for a coffee that speaks of history.

Above: the interior of a café in Trieste. On the left: the castle of Miramare.

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A region to discover...

underground!

Limestone rocks that are more than 120 million years old.

Originally the Karst was submerged in shallow sea water, with warm temperatures and inhabited like a coral reef! Carbonate deposited over thousands of years and turned into rock emerged as a result of strong tectonic movements and from that moment the process of erosion began: weathering carried out a slow modification of the landscape, forming caves, sinkholes and dolines and by infiltrating water to form underground rivers.

All this can be explored. A few kilometres from Trieste, for example, you can enter the largest tourist grotto in the world: the Grotta Gigante, a huge cave that is almost 300 metres long and with a 107-metre dome, into which the ancient network of river tunnels flow and in which the temperature remains constant between 10 and 12 degrees throughout the year. The range of colours and shapes of stalactites and stalagmites is truly amazing, so much so that some, due to their shape, have been given names like “pulpito”, “palma” (7 meters high!) and “colonna di Ruggero” (12 meters!).

A short distance from Cividale del Friuli is the Grotta di San Giovanni d’Antro, which takes its name from the cult who settled there around the eighth century. The cave is much earlier, such that in prehistoric times it would have offered shelter to the local populations. It is accessed by an entrance fortified with a stairs with more than a hundred steps.

Unique to the type of rock that you can see, the Grotta nuova di Villanova has galleries that run flat for 8 km and two paths, one a simple tourist route, the other for speleology tourism, which enters into the more hidden caves. It is always fascina-

Above: a picturesque view of Grotta Gigante.

ting to observe the eccentric shapes of the limestone formations, which seem to defy gravity. Even the Grotta delle Torri di Slivia is considered one of the wonders of the Trieste Karst and has two entrances: an artificial entrance, with about 200 steps that lead 60 metres underground, and a natural entrance, a 30-metre well where you can only descend with caving equipment.

Inside, you can not miss the famous stalagmite towers, a group of eight concretions of various sizes, from which the grotto takes its name. The flow of visitors is precisely regulated to protect a large colony of bats living there, which go into hibernation and reproduce in the grotto.

Finally the “national temple of cavers” the Grotta Verde di Pradis, so named for the emerald green colour that illuminates the walls. After the descent of 207 steps we find the creation carved by the river Cosa. The Christmas mass is celebrated every year in front of the bronze statue of the Virgin. Palaeontological and archaeological traces of Prehistoric occupation of the grotto can be seen in the museum.

San Daniele: tradition of gastronomic excellence There are three rules that must be followed for the production of raw San Daniele ham. First, the thighs should be from pigs reared in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, EmiliaRomagna, Tuscany, Lazio, Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria. Then, of course, the traditional process must be respected: the meat should quickly reach San Daniele, on the hills of Friuli, because it is absolutely forbidden to freeze it. Here it is only treated with sea salt. And the so-called “aging” process can only start in San Daniele. In fact it is necessary to have the winds that descend from the Carnic Alps and those from the Adriatic. The resinous scents mingle with salty ones in an environment where temperature and humidity are regulated by the moraine lands and the waters of the river Tagliamento.

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Liguria The perfect balance between the rough, unspoilt nature of the mountains and the luxuriant gentleness of the sea, with sudden and surprising changes in height between the summits and the water level. This is Liguria, a region of holidays, nature, sport and wellness, of simple and authentic flavours, but also of ancient civilizations and contemporary culture. A concentration of wealth that you can not fail to appreciate: from the music of the great songwriters to the worldliness of the most famous festival in Italy, passing by the flowers, from which the Riviera takes its name.

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A balcony

over the

Mediterranean

LIGURIA

Opposite page: a view of Manarola, one of the Cinque Terre. Above: a market stall selling the typical focaccia of Liguria in Camogli. Above right: an olive grove near La Spezia.

The Ligurian villages, jewels between the mountains and the sea Perched on the hills, overlooking the sea, the picturesque villages in Liguria give colour to the entire coast and the hinterland with their romantic, old and traditional atmosphere.

Villages to explore, enjoy and experience by delving into the past, included among the “Most beautiful villages in Italy” and awarded with the orange flag by the Italian Touring Club.

In the hinterland to the west of Genoa, in the Stura Valley, Campo Ligure is identified today by the narrow alleyways or caruggi (some are just a few tens of centimetres wide) populated by goldsmith shops. Those same alleyways in the village of Pigna are called chibi and have concentric rings giving the town the typical shape of a pine cone, from which the town takes its name. Unique shapes and lines are also found in the “round” village of Varese Ligure whose elliptical layout reminds us of its defensive function. This time located at the foot of the Apennines, at the confluence of the Gravegnola and Chicciola streams with the river Vara, is Brugnato built around the core of an ancient abbey of the late seventh century.

In the Nervia Valley, Apricale takes its name from the fact it is exposed to the sun (in Latin apricus), perched on a hill in a kind of cascade of stone houses. Equally spectacular, but halfway between the sea and the hills, is Borgio Verezzi, with wonderful views of the coast, among the perfumes of the Mediterranean vegetation. The double name, in this case, is due to two historic centres with parallel stories that have experienced the Saracen invasions, the bishops of Albenga and the Republic of Genoa. Here there are very striking glimpses, washbasins, doors between the caruggi and the creuze (alleyways and lanes). The first document that mentions Dolceacqua dates back to 1151; this small village was built from the castle at the top of the rocky spur, spread along a stream, with an older part called Terra and a more modern part called Borgo.

The Finale stone adorns the gates, forms the columns and enhances the narrow alleyways of these villages. Medieval walls and semicircular towers overlooking the sea announce settlements such as Finalborgo (one of the three centres that make

The Ligurian oil and identity Ligurian olive oil is an integral part of the local culture. It is said that the Benedictine monks spread the olive tree in Liguria, with different effects in the production between East and West. The extra virgin olive oil, which is always fruity, is spicy in the East and sweet in the West. Seven varieties of olive trees are grown whose olives are used to produce three types of oil with protected designation of origin (PDO): “Riviera dei Fiori”, “Riviera del Ponente Savonese” and “Riviera del Levante”. A common element, in addition to the membership of the same consortium, (Oli DOP Riviera Ligure), is the percentage of black olives over 90%.

up the town of Finale Ligure) dominated by the baroque Basilica di San Biagio, whose unfinished façade of rough stone hides the richness of the interior decoration. Or like Cervo, dominated by the castle and embellished by the Church “dei Corallini” (the coral fishermen who contributed to its construction), and Zuccarello, with characteristic buildings (such as the Romanesque Bridge), which, due to its strategic position, was one of the key points used by Napoleonic troops.

These extraordinary villages adorn the Ligurian territory and the entire region is dotted with significant and picturesque towns, from the more worldly centres, popular with tourists to those that are more “family friendly”. There are also many interesting facts about these places, such as Laigueglia, populated as early as 1330 by Catalan coral fishermen, whose mark remains in many Spanish-surnames and place names (such as the church of Nostra Señora de la peña, Our Lady of the Rock).

The geography of the area of the Cinque Terre becomes surprisingly more extreme, where the thousand-year old villages boldly climb next to the coast overlooking the sea: Lerici, heart of the Gulf of Poets (the works of Lord Byron and Mary Shelley were written here), Levanto, bearing an elegant and aristocratic appearance, Manarola, famous for the Via dell’Amore (Way of Love), Portovenere, whose name indicates its beauty, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza, overlooking the blue sea with pastel-coloured houses.

There really is something for everyone!

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Genoa: elegant, superb, unique Province: Genoa Altitude: 19 m asl Inhabitants: 606 978 Tourist information: IAT Office via Garibaldi - tel. +39 010 5572903/751 www.genova-turismo.it

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An elegant but reserved city, proud but shy. Like its inhabitants.

Beautiful, when you discover the popular quarters in contrast with the Renaissance palaces, churches and villas. Unique, situated on the gulf at the centre of the two Rivieras, dominated by one of the largest tourist and commercial ports in the Mediterranean and by the scientific and cultural centre in which the Aquarium is the main draw for tourists. Genoa offers the historical and artistic heritage of a true city of art and comes alive every year with events of great interest: the famous Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics, the Salone della Nautica (Genoa International Boat Show), the Euroflora.

The discovery of the city starts from Piazza Matteotti, with the fun combination of courtyards, loggias and colonnades of the Palazzo Ducale, with its eighteenth-century façade facing the square. A visit to the Doge’s apartments allows you to dive into the glorious period of the city and the recent recoveries made it possible to reconstruct the luxury and wealth of the time. Right in front of the Palazzo Ducale is the Teatro Carlo Felice: it was here that the memorable concert by Fabrizio De André was held on Christmas Eve in 1997, and also the emotional commemoration a few days after his death in January 1999, with two thousand peo-

ple in the audience and more than a thousand outside, in front of a big screen.

Moving toward Piazza San Lorenzo, you can not fail to admire the Cathedral of the same name, whose majestic façade with white and black stripes, three imposing access portals, once again takes you back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance period that saw Genoa become the capital and cornerstone of the traffic of goods from around the world.

A memory of that era of trade, departures, great voyages and discoveries can be found in the streets of the historic centre, where a few tiny shops survive that still sell herbs and spices from all over the world.

And it is the common neighbourhoods, with their narrow, colourful, labyrinthic streets that let you breathe the history of a port city, with its active population, more material than philosophizing, more tied to goods than thought, but enriched by the characteristics of the cultures from all over the world thanks to trade.

Genoa is inextricably linked to the name of Christopher Columbus, its most famous citizen, both legendary and mysterious, forced to turn to Spain to organise the trip that started the modern era.

Walking down the streets in the centre, you will discover a new side of the city, with the baroque via Balbi overlooked by the imposing Palazzo Reale, with its more than 100 metres of façade and home to the Art Gallery with works by Van Dyck and the amazing Galleria degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors).

At the end of via Balbi is the famous monument to Christopher Columbus and the façade of the Principe railway station from where via Andrea Doria starts leading to the Palazzo (or Villa) del Principe, the domain of the old port, dominated by the 117-metre Lanterna (Lighthouse of Genoa), the symbol of the city, behind which lies the via Pré district, the infamous and degraded area that has recently embarked on the road of urban and social recovery.

This page, clockwise: an area of the dock in Genoa; the Cathedral of St. Laurence; the Bigo structure in the Old Port.

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A magical land of water From the city to the open sea, everything in Liguria allows you to immerse yourself into the blue and gain a unique experience in contact with the inhabitants of the sea. Start from Genoa, where the area of the old port is home to the famous Aquarium, a place where learning becomes a fun and addictive experience (a true “edutainment”). In addition to the largest aquarium in Italy and the second largest in Europe, built by Renzo Piano for the Expo 1992, in which 70 ecosystems are represented in as many tanks, for adults and children there are the “Città dei Bambini e dei Ragazzi” and “Biosfera”, areas of play and discovery of science and technology, the large panoramic lifts “Bigo” and “Galata”, the largest and most innovative maritime museum in the Mediterranean, with the reconstruction of a Genoese galley from the seventeenth-century which is 33 metres long and a brigantine schooner from the nineteenth century and with six thousand original objects. These visits allow a closer look at how navigation has evolved over the centuries, how the technologies have changed, and how man lived and is living with the sea. But the star attractions are the sharks, dolphins, penguins, seals, rays and even corals: they can be seen, in some cases you can touch them, but we also try to understand how they live and what you can do to respect them in their natural habitat.

The waters of the Ligurian Sea also offer an opportunity for innovative tourism. It is home to the only protected marine area established in the international arena (in 1999): the Cetacean Sanctuary, which covers about 87,000 square kilometres in the waters of Italy, France and Monaco. In fact, this is an area with a high concentration of twelve different spe-

This page: in the magical world of the Aquarium, Genoa.

cies of cetaceans, settled here because of the wealth of fish on which they feed. It is not hard to spot them, when participating in whale watching organised by institutions and consortia, sailing from Genoa and Savona with the assistance of WWF professionals and biologists, allowing you to enter the world of these giant aquatic mammals with respect for their environment. The different species range from the fin whale - that measures an average of 25 metres in length and can weigh more than 20 tons - to the common dolphin, sperm whales and killer whales. The observations on the boat, which the public may participate in, are also a chance to identify each specimen with photos which are then entered into a European database, which monitors their health and behaviour.

Diving enthusiasts must not forget to visit the Regional Natural Park of Portofino with a protected marine area, which contains spectacular underwater ecosystems. The coastline with rock hanging over the promontory in fact creates one of the most interesting and unspoiled seabeds in the Mediterranean, with cliffs full of caves and coves, ideal for the life of sponges, gorgonians and corals of various tints. However the sandy seabeds on the sides of the promontory host the so-called “prairies” of posidonia oceanica, a marine plant that implements a continuous action of consolidation of the seabed and serves as an indicator of the quality of the coastal marine waters.

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Foto Paritani

Emilia Romagna The region situated immediately south of the Po river, where the

destiny of ancient Rome’s dominion over the peninsula was decided:

it was 10 January 49 B.C. and Julius Cesar,

decided to cross the river Rubicon from Ravenna and, on pronouncing the famous phrase Alea iacta est, gave way to the Roman civil war.

The region that has produced the great names of Italian light music, which boasts the most famous riviera in Europe, prestigious Italian automobile companies and the small or large-scale agricultural and food industries that represent Italy worldwide. This is Emilia-Romagna: whatever it decides to produce, it makes an impression.

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A land of passions

and pleasure

EMILIA ROMAGNA

Foto Paritani

Land of flavours, land of motors Food embodies our recollections of territory, history and tradition.

Nothing could be closer to the truth in Emilia-Romagna, where as many as 19“taste museums”have been created to safeguard its fine food and wines: a heritage that comprises its exquisite gastronomic specialities and the art of simple hospitality in which this region has always excelled. A show of hospitality which, on the Riviera, is young at heart, dynamic and extremely well organized, while further inland or in town, takes the form of warm- heartedness, music, a smiling welcome and an entrepreneurial spirit.

In the province of Parma, in the kitchens and cellars of Castello Felino, the Felino Salami Museum has its premises. Other symbols of excellence belonging to this province are the Museum of Parma Ham in Langhirano and the Museum of Parmesan Cheese in Soragna. In Montecchio Emilia, in the area of Reggio Emilia, Lambrusco is celebrated in the Wine Museum, which provides a detailed description of its history and vinification techniques, thanks to the enthusiasm of a family that has been engaged in its production for over a century. And, of course, the Modena area could not possibly do without its Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum, located in Spilamberto, where the visitor’s tour starts in a charming barrel-shaped room, and the Tigella Museum and Borlengo Workshop, occupying two different premises in Samone di Guglia and Lame di Zocca. In the province of Ferrara, looking out onto the water in Comacchio, it is possible to enter into the unique world created by the Eel Museum, an ancient building where visitors may observe fish processing techniques.

Still on the coast, but close to Ravenna, this time, the Salt Museum of Cervia describes the work behind this precious white substance extracted from the sea. Exquisite flavours that are worth learning about and tasting, in order to fully enjoy this territory. But, in Italian, sapori (flavours) rhymes with motori (motors). And in Emilia Romagna motors are another expression of excellence. So much so, that the term “Motor Valley” has been coined.

So don’t miss a visit to the Automobile Museum in San Martino in Rio, which exhibits about forty cars, a dozen motorbikes and sidecars, an historical library, a photographic archive and multimedia supports. This is also the headquarters of the San Martino Racing stable: if the Museum preserves the cars, the Racing stable makes them move. From four to two-wheelers, to complete the picture, it is worth paying a visit to the National Motorcycle Museum in Rimini: 250 motorcycle exhibits to represent 65

different brands, subdivided by theme and period. Of particular interest is the Guzzi 500 which belonged to the painter, Ligabue.

On the grounds in front of the exhibition centre, a bring and buy market for exchanging motorbike accessories has been held ever since 1994, with sessions on the third Sunday of each month. As in the case of food, there are plenty of museums for enthusiasts to visit, as many as 14 in fact. Of these, the most famous is the Ferruccio Lamborghini Museum Centre, in Dosso (Ferrara), where the futuristic structure housing the collections is situated right in front of the production plants. You just have to cross over to the other side of the Italian border to visit Maranello Rosso – the Ferrari Museum and the Red Abarth Museum, in Falciano, in the Republic of San Marino. Finally, for all those who do not only want to know, but also try out, drive and hear the roar of engines firsthand, there is the Misano World Circuit, the Enzo and Dino Ferrari International Racing track in Imola, the Riccardo Paletti Racing track in the area of Parma and the Modena Racing track, as well as the huge number of go kart circuits and the production plants of some of the most famous brands, including Ducati and Maserati. A real paradise for racing enthusiasts!

Opposite page: aquagym class in the Aquafan water park in Riccione.

Above from left to right: the emblem of Ferrari, the famous sports car manufacturer; checking the maturation of Parmesan cheeses; descent on a rubber dinghy at the Aquafan water park in Riccione; the beach of Viserba.

Piadina, the symbol of Romagna Flour, lard, salt and water: this is the piadina of Romagna, the symbol of the Riviera. There are a number of variations on the traditional theme, folded over and filled with cooked ham, squacquerone cheese and rocket, or even chocolate cream. The crescione, for instance, is a piada that is filled, folded over and closed before being cooked: its name derives from its filling of cress, which is now difficult to find but once grew abundantly along ditches and canals. Another version called “tortello alla lastra” is simply a sheet of piadina pastry rolled out finely and filled with potatoes that have been boiled, pureed and seasoned with onion, pecorino cheese, nutmeg, bacon and salt, or greens and ricotta cheese.

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Bologna Strolling midst towers and porticos

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Province: Bologna Altitude: 54 m asl Inhabitants: 382 460 Tourist information bureau: IAT Piazza Maggiore Palazzo del Podestà – Piazza Maggiore 1/e Tel. +39 051 239660 - www.bolognawelcome.com

Of the 100 towers – more or less - built in Bologna in and around the XII century, only 24 still remain standing today. With its almost completely porticoed historical town centre, the socalled red city, whose name is mainly due to the red brick with which it is built but also to its political leanings during the last century, lends itself to about two hours’ of urban trekking. The sites on the tourist track are numerous and curiously named, such as the Torre degli Agresti, Torre dei Lapi, Torre dei Galluzzi. This tour makes an interesting and instructive experience since it enables us to understand the function of towers from the Middle Ages onwards: a family that could afford to build a tower was able to demonstrate its political power, importance and wealth. The higher and more visible the tower was, in fact, the greater the power behind it. On reaching Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, you come across the two symbols of medieval Bologna: the Two Towers, both of which lean over, standing at the meeting point of the streets leading to the five fortified gateways of the ancient city walls known as “torresotti”. The one which leans over most (and is shorter, 48 m) is the Garisenda, mentioned several times by Dante in the Divine Comedy, while

the other, the Torre degli Asinelli, is the highest leaning tower in Italy (97.2 m) and, if you climb up the steps inside, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the city, the surrounding hills and St. Luke’s Church from the top. During the “tower tour” it is advisable to stop off at Piazza del Nettuno, pass under the Voltone del Podestà to “talk in the corners” and observe the Torre dell’Arengo. Then go back to Piazza Maggiore to take in the last tower, that of the Clock.

The other all-important landmark of Bologna is the University: in fact this was the site where the first university of the western world was founded, the Alma Mater Studiorum. In spite of being first mentioned in 1317, but already known in the XI century for its legal studies, the studium of Bologna did not have a permanent location until the mid XVI century, so the professors of ancient times used to hold their lectures in their own homes or in rooms rented from the Municipality.

The 42 km of porticos characterizing this city were actually built to provide hospitality to the wealthy students, most of whom were foreigners. The heart of Bologna’s University is the palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, erected by Pious IV in 1561 to unite all the schools of the Studium under one roof. Palazzo Poggi, on the other hand, was built in the mid 16th century and was chosen by Napoleon in 1802 as the new location of the modern University of Bologna. Finally, Via Zamboni, is the street most frequented by the city’s students and ever since 1756 it has been overlooked by the University library.

Above: the colonnades of Strada Maggiore.

Below: a picturesque night time view of Piazza Maggiore.

The riviera... that never sleeps!

1843. The first bathing establishment was opened in Rimini.

The new sea bathing therapy was being promoted by English doctors: from here in Rimini and its Riviera, a proper industry grew up, consisting of hotels, restaurants, beach facilities, spa centres, discotheques and services of all kinds. People go to the Romagna Riviera to dance all night, drink an evening cocktail on the coast, work out on the fitness beaches and get to know people. But it is also popular with those who like to take long walks with the family, enjoy beach entertainment with the kids, or have fun in the aquatic parks. Many things have changed since 1843, but one thing remains constant: the organization of a whole area as though it were one single tourist product and a unique tourist experience.

Among the various locations on this coast, Rimini is certainly the one that most combines the concept of tourist resort and cultural hub: it offers 30 km of beaches complete with facilities, over 1000 hotels, hundreds of restaurants and pizza parlours, but also a large Municipal Museum, an historical town centre boasting many Ancient Roman and Renaissance monuments, the archaeological sites of the Surgeon’s Domus. In addition, numerous events and shows are staged during the summer, with something for all ages. For example? The Pink Night, the Riviera Beach Games, the Paganello, the Cartoon Club, the Trade Fair and the new Congress Hall, the Fitness Festival etc.

Riccione, on the other hand, is the Green Pearl of the Adriatic, the trendiest and most celebrated destination, which offers holidays for all budgets (from family-run guest houses to luxury hotels). The attractions also include some of the most popular

discotheques in Italy, from the Cocoricò to the Peter Pan and the Baia Imperiale, and the entire area involved in the Rimini night-life, the Marano, with its pubs, lounge bars and nightclubs for dancing on the beach, the amusement parks Aquafan, Oltremare and Fiabilandia, excursions inland towards the nearby Republic of San Marino, the fortified villages of San Leo and Sant’Arcangelo. The long list of resorts goes on to include Cattolica, Bellaria Igea Marina, Gabicce, Cesenatico, Cervia and Misano Adriatico. Milano Marittima, separated from Cervia by a century-old pine forest, is a favourite resort of VIPs, sports celebrities and socialites, since it offers the last word in fashion, music and lifestyle trends. Its hotels are icons of modern design, signed by the most famous architects of our times, along with its glamorous venues and beaches. For those who seek the excitement and adrenaline rush of amusement parks, there is Mirabilandia (in Savio) just a short distance away, or for art and culture enthusiasts, the marvellous town of Ravenna, a Unesco heritage site, which takes you straight into the Byzantine age with its amazing mosaics. Along the same lines of tourist development as Riccione and Milano Marittima, Marina di Ravenna has emerged in recent years as an exotic corner of Romagna thanks to its Duna degli Orsi, an original venue which started out as a place for surfers to gather, and Zanzibar, which re-creates the festive atmosphere of Brazil.

Wherever you go in Emilia-Romagna, every town and village is steeped in history and tradition: from the beaches on the Riviera, you just have to move inland to come across Ferrara, an amazing town which has preserved intact the lavish Renaissance style imposed by the d’Este family. And what about Faenza, a workshop-town for the production of handcrafted ceramics.

Above: an outdoor disco on the riviera.

On the left: a dolphin show at the Dolphinarium in Rimini.

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Toscana

Tuscany offers beautiful seas, hills, spas,

festivals and cities with a rich artistic heritage, with a bit of mountainous landscape thrown

in for good measure. Tuscany has everything

visitors could possibly need for a well-rounded holiday. Just choose whether to spend your holiday on the white sandy beaches of Versilia with celebrities or have a healthy cycling holiday amid “picture postcard” hills, sunflowers and vineyards. Visitors are spoilt for choice: on the one hand there are the numerous local fairs and festivals that focus mainly on simple, tasty and genuine Tuscan food; on the other, you can enjoy a relaxing time in the spa waters that flow from the rocks to form natural pools of hot spring water set amidst the countryside. Visitors

Picture

postcard views

can opt for a comprehensive cultural holiday from the art of Tuscany’s famous towns and cities to the numerous medieval jousts organised throughout the region. The alternative is to try and do a bit of everything, experiencing Tuscany to the full.

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TUSCANY

Opposite page: a riot of colour in the hills of Val d’Orcia. Above from left to right: local handicrafts; rock near the island of Palmarola; Piazza del Campo in Siena; Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa.

In the cradle of the Renaissance The cities of art in Tuscany make a winning team because they form a perfect “package” which never ceases to arouse the curiosity of visitors: travelling from one place to the next, you pass through marvellous landscapes which relax the mind and help you to leave the stress of modern city life far behind.

A good place to start is Prato and its Castello dell’Imperatore (Emperor’s castle), a rare and imposing example of SwabianAngevin architecture. Prato is a true city of art, considering that it is possible to admire the works of Andrea della Robbia in the church of Santa Maria delle Carceri while the Cathedral of St. Stephen contains the frescoes of Paolo Uccello and Filippo Lippi. Renowned since the Middle Ages for the manufacture and trade of fabrics, Prato provides an illustrated overview of this historical activity in the Museo del Tessuto (Textile and Fabric Museum).

The tour moves from Prato to Pistoia, where it is worth visiting the beautiful Piazza del Duomo with the Cathedral of St. Zeno, and the town hall and the magistrates’ and the bishop’s palaces with their gothic profiles.

Known as“the city with a hundred churches”, Lucca greets visitors with its colourful rounded square, a welcoming place steeped in history like the entire region it represents. The most important of the hundred churches is undoubtedly the Cathedral of St. Martin where visitors can admire the wonderful works of Nicola Pisano and the marvellous gothic-renaissance tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, made in 1407 by Jacopo della Quercia in memory of the wife of Paolo Giunigi, the lord of the city. Before leaving Lucca, you can not miss a romantic walk along the renaissance city wall, a hanging garden that surrounds the historic centre. Pisa is unquestionably

an emblematic representative of Italian art and architecture in the world. The famous Leaning Tower stands next to the Cathedral in Piazza dei Miracoli (the Square of Miracles) although it is actually the Cathedral’s bell tower. Construction work on the tower began in 1173 but it began to lean over midway during the building work due to the ground subsidence. Inside the Cathedral, which is divided into five naves, the pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano is one of the most important gothic sculptures in Italy. Massa and Carrara, just a few kilometres away from the Apuan Riviera, still preserve the charm of traditional historic towns and cities of art and culture. Immediately to the north, set between the Apuan Alps and the Appenines, lies Lunigiana, the region that supplied the marble used to stunning effect in the cathedral of Carrara, the Cathedral of Massa and all the façades of the large churches of Tuscany and nearby Liguria.

Overlooking the sea, Livorno is famous for its Naval Academy and the headquarters of the “Folgore” Parachutists’ Brigade. It is also renowned for the cacciucco, the rich fish soup that is the city’s trademark dish. It is primarily a port city and, as such, has always been open to different cultures and religions: it houses a place of worship and a monumental cemetery for every religion! Siena is the protagonist of the Tuscan summer with the Palio, which is held twice a year. It is the queen of traditional historical re-enactments.

Tourists can enjoy a full immersion in the city’s past: this includes the division of the city into districts, the concentric plan around Piazza del Campo and the Mangia Tower, the Fonte Gaia and the Palio, which still arouses passionate feelings to this day. Visitors can enjoy a similar trip through time at Arezzo, which has a carefully preserved historic appearance, with its Giostra del Saracino (Saracen Joust) in which the city’s four districts challenge each other.

Below: Piazza dell’Anfiteatro in Lucca.

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From sunflowers to woods, the magic of the Tuscan hills In terms of landscape, Tuscany immediately conjures up visions in tourists’ minds of the region’s gently rolling hills.

Val d’Orcia represents the standard image of the yellow hills, with a narrow row of cypresses on the “hump”. We are in Siena’s heartland, where the panorama is stripped down to the bare essentials and is of matchless simplicity... and yet quite wonderful. The colours of the sky and the different shades that follow each other during the day offer a constant contrast to the warm colours of the fields, the red soil when it is freshly ploughed (“Siena earth”), the green crops in early summer and the golden hues of late summer. Even the roads have a harmonious quality, following the contours and bends of the slopes, without any excesses and with effortless elegance, often accompanied by orderly rows of cypress trees. The summits of the most imposing hills are topped with towns, castles, abbeys and monasteries, surrounded by the vineyards of Brunello. A small part of the area is mountainous, in the westernmost part of the valley where Mount Amiata, the highest extinct volcano in Italy, silently overlooks Castel del Piano and, further in the distance, Montalcino, Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico d’Orcia and other romantic towns. The river that gives its name

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to the valley is little more than a stream; in summer it often runs dry while in autumn it is a fast-flowing and tumultuous stream. However, there are other water features which have made this area distinctive since ancient Roman times: in Bagno Vignoni the spa waters have been exploited with small natural and artificial pools, linked to each other by ancient water channels which use the force of gravity to create small waterfalls and constant movement. Most of the water collects in a large pool (where swimming is not permitted) which replaces the town square and gives it a unique appearance: the impact is particularly strong on summer days, when the blue of the sky and the colours of the flowers are reflected in the middle, creating plays of light and unique reflections.

Chianti also lies in the Siena area and its landscape almost appears to have been drawn or painted. The fascinating Crete Senesi are hills that continuously change shape due to the sculpting of the clay which forms the main component of the soil. Here too, there are plenty of opportunities to relax, with the spa waters of Rapolano Terme, to enjoy local food, tasting the truffle of San Giovanni d’Asso, and to appreciate local archaeology; it is worth visiting the fascinating excavation of

Pieve di Pava where each summer hundreds of students from all over the world excavate and study a medieval site which was probably built on old Roman buildings and possibly even Etruscan ruins. It is quite common to see young people walking along in rows in the fields at a fixed distance from each other with their eyes glued to the ground and holding state-of-theart machinery: they are involved in archaeological survey and remote sensing and other disciplines which provide crucial support for classical archaeological excavation.

Chianti is naturally associated with wine. Just move to the right hills, with the best exposure to the sun and the ideal mineral components in the soil, to discover colourful rows of vines with different varieties of grapes: even the wines produced in the Tuscan hills differ considerably from each other. The so-called Strade del Vino (Wine Trails) have been specially created for sensitive tourists who love active holidays and want to explore the flavours of the region and its traditions: there are clearly marked signs for anyone who wants to explore the trail by car, motorbike, bicycle or on foot; the signs provide precise information about the road you are travelling on, the distances to various places of interest, descriptions of the features of the wines produced on each route, highlighting the cultural visits that can be made in the area, the available infrastructure and services, from wineries to holiday farmhouses and museums. There are currently 14 Wine Trails in Tuscany and they are located throughout the region: from the north, “Colli di Candia e di Lunigiana”, “Colline Lucchesi e Montecarlo”, “Montespertoli”, “Carmignano” (the so-called “strada medicea”),“Chianti Rùfina e Pomino”,“Chianti Colli Fiorentini”, “Colline Pisane”, “Terre di Arezzo”, “Vernaccia di San Gimignano”, “Monteregio di Massa Marittima”, “Montecucco”, “Nobile di Montepulciano”, “Costa degli Etruschi” and “Colli di Maremma”. Not all the names are particularly well-known but they conceal old traditions, high quality products and authentic itineraries.

The hills of the Maremma have a completely different appearance. This is the southernmost area of Tuscany and

Opposite page: hills near San Gimignano. This page, clockwise from the left: a field of sunflowers; countryside near San Quirico d’Orcia; sunset over the Bay of Baratti; countryside along the Monteregio Wine Trail in Massa Marittima; a cowherd in the Regional Park of the Maremma.

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coincides with the territory of Grosseto. The Maremma is a byword for wild nature, woodland and a lifestyle based on respect for the environment and wildlife which has found its ideal conditions here: the Maremma is as strong and rugged as its wild boars and as elegant and free as its horses. The area is protected by the Regional Park of the Maremma, one of the first Italian nature reserves, and, towards the sea, by the National park of the Tuscan Archipelago which includes the coast and the islands. Like the whole of Tuscany, the Maremma simply oozes history: the Castle of Montemassi, an imposing ruin with polygonal towers, built on a spur of rock which was probably already inhabited in antiquity with wooden huts and buildings; the monument provides testimony of the lesser and more important battles fought in the Maremma area for control of a region which was rich in timber and game. It is the same castle that is depicted in Guidoriccio da Fogliano, painted by Simone Martini in 1330, a large fresco in the Sala del Mappamondo in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena. Archaeology, art and history combine to provide the data required to reconstruct events. This is the case for every small town in the region.

Returning to the “yellowest” area of the Tuscan hills, the main protagonists are the abbeys: they include masterpieces of Romanesque architecture such as Sant’Antimo; just a stone’s

throw from Montalcino, the white-hooded monks, who still live in the structure and run its religious and accommodation facilities, can be seen walking among the capitals decorated with the typical faces and figures of the medieval bestiary and the imposing arches and columns made from warmly coloured stone. Another example is Monte Oliveto Maggiore, the fifteenth century abbey inhabited by Olivetan Benedictine monks who live in an enclosed order and, in accordance with tradition, produce different herbal medicines. The centre of the monastery is the cloister, a place that symbolises monastic life as a communion with God (there is no roof so that there is a sensation of direct contact with the sky) and the other brothers.

However, the most legendary of Tuscan monasteries is San Galgano, the majestic unroofed Cistercian abbey which was consecrated in 1288 in honour of Galgano, a local nobleman who converted to poverty. The building is surrounded by huge stretches of sunflowers. The nearby chapel, known as the “Rotonda di Montesiepi”, houses the “sword in the stone” which, according to tradition, was thrust into the stone by Galgano himself as a tangible symbol of his own conversion.

Many theories link the story of Galgano to that of King Arthur.

Once again, in the peace of the Tuscan countryside, history and legend go hand in hand.

Above from left to right: vineyards near San Gimignano; view of Volterra. Below: Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Opposite page: Abbey of San Galgano..

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Firenze: the many museums of a city-museum The first thing to do in Florence is to close your eyes: as you reopen them, you will find yourself walking through the Renaissance city in the company of Brunelleschi and Michelangelo, Donatello and Masaccio, all at work transforming the city into the true capital of the Renaissance. Churches, palaces, museums, bridges: art and history are the thread running through each street. Then you encounter Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch and this is where literature appears. In the city of Florence, culture is king!

The Uffizi Gallery, one of the most important museums in the world, houses the collection of the Medici family and is housed in a majestic building that resembles a sort of U-shaped corridor suspended in front of the river Arno; it was initially designed as a private walkway between the masterpieces of Renaissance painting. The Uffizi Gallery provides an excellent selection of Italian works of art between the fourteenth and sixteenth century: Giotto, Piero della Francesca, Botticelli (including the unmissable works Spring and the Birth of Venus), Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Leonardo da Vinci (the Annunciation), Michelangelo (the Tondo Doni or The Holy Family), Raphael, Andrea Mantegna, Correggio and Caravaggio. Other important parts of the gallery that are definitely worth seeing include the collections of German, Dutch and Flemish painters such as Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens.

From the panoramic terrace there is a splendid view over Piazza della Signoria and the historic centre of the city.

Piazza della Signoria has always been the civic centre of the city and is dominated by Palazzo Vecchio, a gothic fortress which is now the city hall, with the Arnolfo Tower, the 94-metre tower which is the symbol of the power of the Florentine Republic.

The other decorative features of the square include the Fountain of Neptune and the bronze statues of the Loggia dei Lanzi, in particular the statue of Perseus by Benvenuto Cellini.

Art lovers should definitely visit the Accademia Gallery, which houses the original version of Michelangelo’s David, the copy of which dominates Piazza della Signoria. The statue is the pride of Florence due to the sense of nobility and dignity which the young artist (he was only 26 years old at the time) managed to convey from one single block of marble: it is said that no one wanted to carve the block of stone measuring over 4 metres and known as “il gigante” (the giant). The gallery also features other incomplete works by Michelangelo known as “I Prigioni” (The Prisons).

This page, from the top: Brunelleschi’s Dome and Palazzo Vecchio.

Opposite page, from the top: Giotto’s bell tower and view of Florence with River Arno.

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Province: Florence Altitude: 50 m asl Inhabitants: 378.236 Tourist information: APT Firenze Via Cavour -Via Cavour, 1/r Tel. +39 055.290832 – 055.290833 www.firenzeturismo.it

The Florentine museum network also includes the Museo del Bargello where visitors can admire an unrivalled collection of the most important works of Renaissance sculpture, such as Donatello’s David. The Bargello was once a fortress-prison, and it is possible to visit the chapel which was reserved for the last prayers of prisoners who had been sentenced to death.

To reach the other large part of the museum network of Florence, it is necessary to cross the river Arno: here you come to Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence (1345), which used to be the location of butchers’ shops which were replaced, by order of Grand Duke Cosimo I, by the jeweller’s shops that still give the bridge its character today. It is the only bridge over the Arno to have survived the Second World War and the flood of 1966. The

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bridge is considered the most romantic place in Florence and there are no words to describe its incredible beauty at sunset.

By crossing the Arno, you come to Palazzo Pitti, the colossal residence of the Medici family which today houses as many as five museums (including the Palatine Gallery) as well as the Giardino di Boboli, Florence’s“museum”of plants and flowers.

Inquisitive visitors can also go in search of the city’s many small museums. They are incredibly diverse in nature. Each one has its own distinctive quality so that a tour of Florence’s museums never ceases to be a source of pleasant surprises!

To complete the visit, a walk around an outdoor museum – namely the historic centre - is an absolute must. If you look up in Piazza del Duomo, you will be astonished at the sight of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower.

Besides the grandiose and majestic nature of the monuments, the really striking aspect is the elegance of the composition of the materials and colours of the structures. The cathedral is one of the largest churches in the world and is dominated by Brunelleschi’s dome, an impressive landmark which is visible from whichever direction you approach the city: as you climb you can take in a unique view. The bell tower, which is 85 metres high and has 414 steps, provides the best viewpoint of the city because it is the only place where you can admire the dome from close up. The third element of the complex, the Baptistery, is famous for its bronze panels, made by Ghiberti, which are so beautiful that they were called “the gates of paradise”.

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Versilia: trend-setting beaches If there is a fashionable side to Tuscany, this is Versilia. The strip of land in the province of Lucca takes its name from the river Versilia and in past times it used to be known as the “Fosse Papiriane”.

There is a historical part, made up of four municipalities which are situated in the mountainous area of the river, and there is also“contemporary Versilia”, the coastal riviera; its predominantly tourist appeal combines a huge, golden sandy beach with lively fashionable nightlife, featuring numerous night clubs and renowned discos overlooking the sea.

Lido di Camaiore offers a distinctively elegant walk along the seashore which stretches for more than 4 km, beside lidos, restaurants and shops until the brand new pier which is the perfect place to sip an aperitif; in an earlier age, D’Annunzio used to spend his holidays here with the actress Eleonora Duse, as did King Victor Emmanuel III, Puccini, Marconi and Mussolini, frequent guests at the villa of Senator Rolandi Ricci, now the Hotel Ariston. The town of Camaiore, whose lido is its seaside offshoot, extends up into the Apuan Alps and is perched on the

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hills of Seimiglia and the plain of Capezzano, famous for the production of strawberries and flowers.

Any mention of “Versilia” must inevitably include “Forte dei Marmi”. We are now entering historic Versilia (with Seravezza, Stazzema and Pietrasanta). The name derives from the small fort which stands in the centre of the town, built by Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo at the end of the eighteenth century, and from the marble which came from the nearby quarries in the Alps and was shipped from here. There is an intriguing Museum of Satire and Caricature inside the fort. Forte dei Marmi is nowadays the holiday resort for politicians and sports and showbusiness personalities. The town has many clubs, discos and shops selling luxury goods, even though the main attraction is the beach with its extraordinarily fine golden sand and the beach huts overlooking the avenue of the seafront. The architecture includes villas designed by architects such as Gio Ponti and Giuseppe Pagano, historic villas that belonged to the leading families of Italian history such as the Agnellis, and the Capannina discotheque

which opened in 1929: this is the“Roma Imperiale”district which, since the tourist boom in the sixties, has represented “Versilia” in the collective imagination.

In the historic part of Versilia, visitors can admire Pietrasanta the “Small Athens” -, the meeting point of sculptors who came from all over the world to work marble and bronze. The numerous galleries give it the appearance of a miniature city of art, while the small streets of the old town contain important sculptures such as The Warrior by Fernando Botero. Seravezza gives its name to the two rivers Vezza and Serra, which join to form the river Versilia.

The town is dominated by the sixteenth century Medici Palace, which houses the Museo del Lavoro e delle Tradizioni Popolari della Versilia Storica (the Museum of Work and Folk Traditions in Historical Versilia). Lastly, there is Stazzema, the smallest and highest town in the area, the ideal base for setting off on trips on foot or bicycle.

Torre del Lago is the destination of opera lovers from all over the world. The town takes its name from the 15th century tower which overlooks Lake Massaciuccoli. Since 1938 Puccini has been added to its name in honour of the composer who lived in Torre del Lago and composed many of his works there: Torre del Lago Puccini is now the complete name of the town. The Puccini residence stands on the viewpoint of the lake and houses the composer’s tomb. The seafront of Torre del Lago is packed with tourists in summer due to the presence of discos and clubs on the beach of Lecciona.

Lastly, “Versilia” is also associated in people’s minds with “Viareggio”. The city, which overlooks the sea with 10 km of beach, of which 6 are occupied by lidos and 4 are freely accessible to the public, is the heart of Tuscan seaside tourism. The eclectic buildings in Art Nouveau and Art Déco styles give the centre and the promenade an elegant and sophisticated quality: the area is overlooked by the famous Teatro Politeama. Viareggio is also one of Italy’s most famous cities due to its Carnival: throughout the year it is possible to visit the Museo e la Cittadella del Carnevale (Carnival Museum and Citadel), with warehouses and workshops where the papier mâchè floats are made for the following year’s

procession. In the pine forests and woods of Ponente and Levante, there are numerous cycle paths and footpaths with sports facilities set in the woodland, just a stone’s throw away from the sea. Since late nineteenth century, when the Nettuno and Balena lidos were established, the“Pearl of the Tyrrhenian”offers a complete holiday experience: sea, countryside, fun and fashion.

Fiorentina: a brief history of a legend The “Bistecca alla Fiorentina” – the Florentine T-bone steak – has a long history. Its importance increased with the Medici family who, on the feast day of San Lorenzo on the 10th August, illuminated the city with enormous bonfires used to roast steaks which were then distributed amongst the city’s inhabitants. The story goes that there were English people present who referred to the meat as beef steak: this led to the Italianised term “bistecca”, which is obtained from cuts of the loin of Chianina breed bullocks. There is a T-shaped bone in the middle of the steak, hence the English name. The meat is hung for two weeks in a fridge and is then cooked on a fire stone or on the grill over charcoal made from oak, holm-oak or olivewood. The standard T-bone steak weighs about 1.5 kg.

On these pages: above, three views of the beaches of Versilia; on the left, a firework display in Viareggio.

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Isola d’Elba Legend has it that the Island of Elba and other islands in the Tuscan

Archipelago were created from the gems of Venus’ diadem which fell

into the sea. This was the reason for their beauty and led to the name of “Queens of the Tyrrhenian Sea”. One island and many small islands, which ancient peoples tried to conquer by fighting against the terrible shearwaters, the “talking birds” who were the incarnation of the tormented souls of sailors who had lost their lives at sea.

In antiquity, not even the most precise nautical maps could identify the presence and position of the numerous rocks around the isle of Elba.

The waves breaking against the rocks provide a unique spectacle of unbridled nature.

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A gem of

an island

THE ISLAND OF ELBA

A fragment of history surrounded by blue sea Elba is a minute piece of land in the middle of the sea with an eventful and turbulent history. The fate of the island has always been determined by two factors: its strategic position and the wealth of the minerals in its subsoil. As a consequence, it has often been fought over, a sought-after base from which the leading powers of the Mediterranean could control trade routes along the Italian coast. For the Etruscans the iron of Elba was a source of wealth and contributed to the prosperity of their civilisation.

Archaeologists have brought to light two incredibly rich patrician villas near the spa complex of the island: the Romans also appreciated Elba for its iron ore but especially for the healing properties of its thermal mud. During the Middle Ages Pisa gained control of the island which preserves the traces of Pisan rule in the form of defensive fortifications.

This was followed by the Renaissance signories and Cosimo I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, who built his Cosmopoli (now Portoferraio) on the ruins of the Roman Fabricia in 1548, providing it with strong defensive walls to protect the inhabitants from pirate raids.

Elba can be described as a fortified island. The Spanish, for example, after making their base at Porto Azzurro, built the seventeenth century Fort of San Giacomo. Now a prison, the fort enjoyed a privileged position and had such an imposing defensive structure that the English, Germans and French had to resort to military force to gain possession of it. Of all the historical events that befell it, the one that made the island famous was the brief period of exile of Napoleon, who stayed there for ten months (between 1814 and 1815) before returning secretly to Paris and regaining power. Napoleon was undoubtedly not treated as a prisoner, as he had been at Sant’Elena: at Elba, Bonaparte became king and there are still sumptuous Napoleonic residences which testify to this historical episode.

History, monuments and art have always been enclosed within 147 km of coastline and all types of beaches, ranging from low sandy beaches to small pebbly coves, from large expanses of black sand to stretches of white pebbles, and even beaches of granite.

Opposite page: a view of Portoferraio. Above: two views of the sea and a beach on the Island of Elba.

Elba’s uniqueness lies in the enormous variety of environments, from which it is possible to discover unexpected panoramic views. The most famous view point for scanning the horizon over the crystal clear waters of the Tyrrhenian sea is Mount Capanne, the highest point of the island (1019 metres). On clear days, it is possible to make out Corsica and some of the islands along the archipelago: Pianosa, Capraia, Montecristo and Gorgona. The slopes of Mount Capanne are covered in Mediterranean scrub and large granite boulders, beneath some of which several ancient settlements are hidden, while other boulders have been eroded by the wind, forming strange shapes that have earned the name “Stone monsters”. The whole landscape is dotted with beautiful wild orchids. To reach the summit of Mount Capanne, besides the numerous paths which are a paradise for enthusiastic trekkers and cyclists, there is also a two-seater cableway which leaves from Marciana and take visitors in just a few minutes to enjoy a unique 360 degree view stretching from the sky to the sea.

Elba is the largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago, made up of seven main islands (besides Elba, in order of size, Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Gorgona, and Giannutri), three minor islands (Palmaiola, Cerboli, the “Formiche di Grosseto”), sandbanks and reefs situated between the coast of Livorno and Corsica. The archipelago is surrounded by both the Ligurian Sea and the Tyrrhenian Sea, linked by the Channel of Piombino and the Channel of Corsica. The islands all share the “bright” sea, which is a favourite destination of scuba divers, an unspoilt vegetation as well as the opportunity to enjoy a holiday in stunning natural surroundings.

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One small island, many small towns In 1557 Cosimo I de’ Medici, while creating an imposing system of defences to protect the island from Turkish pirates, built Cosmopoli. The Falcone Fort and Stella Fort were constructed on the promontory while the Linguella Fort, together with the Martello Tower, were built in defence of the harbour, all of them linked by a fortified wall: it formed an invincible citadel! The town soon changed its name to Portoferraio, partly following the tradition of transporting iron. From being the outpost of the Medici grand duchy, it has now become the main tourist port of the island.

The island offers pleasant surprises, especially for visitors who imagine it merely as a place of sunshine, sea and beaches. The island, which extends for just 224 sq.km, is subdivided into eight municipalities which, until very recently, were extremely different from each other and so isolated that completely different tradi-

Tastes of distant lands A part of Elba’s fame stems from its wines which, in Roman times, led it to be known as Insula vini ferax (wine-rich island); in medieval times, its wines were served at the tables of the Popes while in the eighteenth century the island’s wines filled the holds of commercial vessels. Procanico, Sangioveto,’Elba Bianco and Elba Rosso are the classic high quality DOC wines; the island is also famous for dessert wines such as Ansonica Passita, Moscato and Aleatico. The island’s cuisine, which is equally distinctive, has been influenced by the presence of numerous cultural traditions: the schiaccia briaca is a cake which was originally made without alcohol (in accordance with the strictures of the Koran) and has pine nuts and sultanas, typically oriental ingredients.

The use of the sweet red Aleatico wine, an essential part of the current version of the cake, is a later nineteenth century addition, as are the walnuts, which are not grown on the island and were therefore extremely costly in the past.

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Province: Livorno Altitude: 4 m asl Inhabitants: 12 224 Tourist information: Azienda di Promozione Turistica Calata Italia, 26 - Tel. +39 0565 914671 www.turismo-elba.it

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tions, customs and economies emerged in each place. One example is the municipality of San Piero, whose economy was based exclusively on granite mining (there is a very interesting itinerary called “Vie del granito” – the granite trail), and the nearby municipality of Marciana, a picturesque place which has always been associated with the cultivation of chestnuts and timber and with sheep-farming. An even starker contrast exists between Rio, the mining town, Porto Azzurro, the power base under Spanish rule, and Portoferraio, the city-principality which welcomed Cosimo I de’ Medici and Napoleon. Nowadays, the differences between one town and another can only be observed in the customs, food and, in particular, in the local dialect.

Equally renowned is the town of Capoliveri, perched on a hill, now one of the most typical and active towns of Elba. It is a fascinating place with a rich history and linked to the other towns with a free shuttle service which encourages visitors to travel around according to the various events organised both during the day and the evening. Its distinctive feature is the classical architecture of the medieval town with narrow lanes and picturesque arches (known as “chiassi”), craft workshops and unpretentious restaurants where visitors can taste local dishes. Its name derives from the Latin term Caput Liberum,“sacred to Bacchus”: for millennia, the town has been associated with excellent grapes and excellent wine. Each year at the end of September, to celebrate the Festa dell’Uva (Grape and Wine Festival), the four districts of Fosso, Torre, Fortezza and Baluardo challenge each other by staging choreographies based on different themes of the grape harvest. The Festa dell’Innamorata (The Lovers’ Festival) is held on 14th July and is based on the old legend of two young lovers (Lorenzo and Maria), while the Festa del Cavatore (Miners’ festival) is held in early May and celebrates the old mining origins of the island.

Elba offers much more than just its beautiful seaside. It is an island really worth exploring with fascinating traditions that should be experienced to the full.

Wonders under the sea Opposite page: a view of Poggio, in the Commune of Marciana Marina. This page, above: the wreck of the Elviscot; the splendid sea depths of the island of Elba.

The seabed of Elba is home to an exhaustive “sample” of the immense natural heritage of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The numerous caves and numerous narrow passageways between the rocks provide stunning views. There is also fascinating submerged evidence of ancient maritime trade routes: it is not unusual to find fragments of ancient amphorae. There are also traces of the modern era on the seabed: for example, beyond the lighthouse of Portoferraio, 37 metres below the surface, lies the wreckage of a Junkers 52 plane of the German Luftwaffe, shot down on 9th September 1944; on the muddy seabed, around the wreck, it is possible to encounter large spiny lobsters, European lobsters and the sunfish. In the area of Punta Nasuto, visitors can enjoy an underwater itinerary that leads through large shoals of damselfish and reaches the base of the reef at a depth of about 42 metres. The view around these submerged islands is quite extraordinary: shoals of white sea bream and brown meagres within the deep fissures, conger eels peering out from the rocks and beautiful anthias. The reef also provides an incredibly rich barrier of coral!

The so-called“Formiche della Zanca”are one of the most beautiful areas for scuba diving off the northern coast of Elba: the name refers to a group of rocks that rise out of the water and whose most spectacular side faces Capraia, with high rocky spires and a deep gully inhabited by brown meagres. Below a depth of 45 metres, the fantastic seabed is covered by the sea fans of the red paramuricea clavata, which provides a stunning subject for photography together with the shoals of anthias and damselfish that move between its branches.

One of the areas that attracts many scuba divers to Elba lies just off Capo Fonza, in a splendid and easily identifiable sandbank which, at a depth of 40 metres, is characterised by fissures and small caves with lobsters, white sea bream and moray eels. The reefs of the Scogli dei Gemini, close to the western coast of Capo Calamita,

are slightly shallower but just as interesting. The dive involves a descent that follows the rocky seabed which, at a depth of 15-20 metres, creates intriguing hollows inhabited by a great number of bright yellow cluster anemones (parazoanthus axinellae). The lively colour, alongside the blue walls, can also be seen near to Punta Bianca where the reefs rise to only a few metres below the surface.

There are also small caves inhabited by hundreds of red prawns.

Moreover, in the cove of Portoferraio there is an islet with a varied seabed, while along the northern side of the island, the coastal waters often begin with stretches of boulders, patches of sand and sandy plains until, with the aid of flippers, divers can reach long reefs with a distinctive profile which drop down to a depth of about 50 metres. Among the rocks it is not unusual to spot a few groupers. Other areas of interest for scuba diving include Punta della Madonna, Capo Stella, Capo Caldo, Capo d’Enfola with the large rock known as Scoglio della Nave, and the large sandbank known as Secca del Careno which rises to up to 14-20 metres from the surface.

One of the few opportunities for scuba diving off Elba that does not require a boat is the dive to discover the“wreck of Pomonte”: resting on a detrital seabed, at a depth of 12 metres, is the hull of the ship Elviscot which sank in 1972 during heavy seas. Among the metal plates of the wreck, it is possible to spot conger eels, white sea bream and octopus amid the play of light that penetrates the ship’s portholes.

Elba is the perfect training ground for divers of all levels of ability and experience! In Campo nell’Elba, Marciana, Rio Marina, Capoliveri, Porto Azzurro, Marciana Marina and Portoferraio there are well-equipped scuba diving centres for anyone interested in exploring the marvels of Elba’s undersea world.

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Marche

The only region in Italy with a plural name: the Marche are in fact made up of many small Municipalities.

Small Communes characterized by

the presence of the Apennines which gently descend

towards the sea, an outlook onto the Adriatic which, further south, becomes deeper and is laced with interminable soft sandy beaches. Every corner of this region has a different look but they all share one aspect: beauty. A characteristic that has inspired some truly unforgettable masterpieces, executed by the famous names of Italian art and culture who have come from this region.

Nature

and culture:

a region’s

trademark

MARCHE 58

Living the good life, surrounded by history A land of great personalities, from Giacomo Leopardi and Raffaello, to Giovan Battista Pergolesi and Gioacchino Rossini, who were all born here. A land of art cities and historical hamlets, set between the hills, facing the sea and the valleys of the Apennines. A land of artworks of inestimable value, such as the masterpieces of Piero della Francesca, Raffaello, Lorenzo Lotto, Tiepolo, Giovanni Bellini, Rubens and Tiziano. A land of archaeological remains, crossed by the roads of the Ancient Rome as they wound their way towards the rest of the peninsula. A land of museums, libraries, theatres and castles, but also one of great religious faith, dotted with abbeys and monasteries.

The Marche, in fact, are an ancient region dating back thousands of years but, at the same time, one of great modernity and innovation, with an enduring sense of values and traditions from which to draw inspiration and creativity, which materialize in local craftsmanship and industry. The combination of culture and nature is the secret of an enviable lifestyle: it is no surprise, therefore, if the inhabitants of this region have the longest life expectancy in Italy!

Apart from preserving the past and its traditions, great attention is also focused on the environment: there are twelve protected areas, comprising two national parks (the Park of the Sibillini Mountains, the Gran Sasso Park and the Laga National Park), four regional parks (Mount Conero, Sasso Simone and Simoncello, Mount San Bartolo, Gola della Rossa and Frasassi) and six natural reserves, added to which there are over one hundred areas for the protection of wild flowers, fifteen “public” forests and over sixty centres for environmental education.

The Sibillini Mountains represent a bridge between a mythical past and the triumph of nature: the landscape of these calcareous mountains, over an altitude of 1700 metres, is a blaze of delightful martagon lilies, Eugenia’s pansies and edelweiss of the Apennines, and is still haunted by the magical presence of the Sibyl: a sorceress, so the story narrates, who was condemned to live in a cave high up in the mountain, for having turned against God. The latest expedition to explore the cavern which, according to the legend, has a tunnel leading to the centre of the earth, took place in 1953, then an attempt to widen the entrance provoked a landslide that sealed it forever, and the enigma of the Sibyl lies hidden in the heart of the mountain. Because of

Opposite page: Apennine landscape near Amandola. Above from the left: the famous Hill of Infinity which inspired Giacomo Leopardi; the ruins of the Roman theatre of Helvia Recina; view of the Sibillini Mountains.

this and other legends, the“Blue Mountains”, as Leopardi called them, continue to hold their mysterious charm: another story tells that the body of Pontius Pilate was dragged here by a herd of buffaloes and thrown into the waters of the lake which now bears his name. It is the only natural lake in the Marche, situated at an altitude of over 1800 metres. Here too, natural wonders go hand in hand with the rich fabric of history.

Speaking of natural wonders, Mount Conero immediately comes to mind with its high cliffs plunging into the sea. The Mediterranean maquis dominates the landscape which is covered with broom in spring and strawberry trees in Autumn. A paradise for birdwatchers. And for those who seek history and culture in a natural setting, looking out onto breathtaking seascapes, there is no shortage of prehistoric cave drawings, Roman caves, Benedictine and Franciscan abbeys and monasteries, as well as the Pini archaeological area with its Picene necropolis in Sirolo, defensive buildings such as Napoleonic Fort and Clementina Tower in Portonovo. Visitors are spoilt for choice. But beauty is a constant presence.

The exquisite pleasure of olives Before reaching maturity, they are immersed in a potassium hydroxide solution that eliminates their bitter flavour, before being washed several times and preserved in brine. This is the method used to prepare the most typical speciality of the Marche: olives “all’Ascolana”. After removing the stone with a spiral utensil, the cavity is filled with minced meat (or fish in the seaside version) which has been previously cooked and deglazed with white wine and herbs, to which spices, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and grated parmesan cheese are added. Then the olives, which are filled and patted back into shape, are then coated with breadcrumbs and fried. Pure bliss.

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Urbino, the Renaissance interpreted as a city Province: Pesaro - Urbino Altitude: 485 m asl Inhabitants: 15 627 Tourist information: Centro IAT Urbino piazza Rinascimento 1 Tel. +39 0722 2613 www.turismo.pesarourbino.it

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Today, the entire city of Urbino is a UNESCO human heritage site and, centuries ago, it was one of the capitals of the Renaissance. Its protagonist was Duke Frederick of Montefeltro, who commissioned the construction of the Duke’s Palace, a palatial dwelling that was one of the finest in Europe, and the symbol of this city. In ancient times the first inhabited areas were the valleys of the rivers Metauro and Foglia, which the Romans called Urvinum. Owing to its strategic position, it immediately became the object of dispute in the feudal age. This was when the house of Montefeltro appeared on the scene, along with Frederick, patron of the arts and originator of the artistic splendour of the dukedom: his palace became a “palace city”, where the most illustrious artists, philosophers, mathematicians and musicians lived and worked… Urbino is the “ideal city” and embodies the principles of Humanism and the Renaissance, continuing to expand until 1631, when it was taken over by the Pontifical State. The Duke’s Palace now houses the National Gallery of the Marche, which occupies all of the palace halls restored so far on the first two floors for a total of about 80 rooms displaying paintings on wood and canvas, frescoes, sculptures, inlay artworks, furniture, tapestries and drawings.

Next to the Duke’s Palace, in a decidedly different style, stands the Cathedral, reconstructed in a neoclassical style towards the end of the 18th century: it contains two masterpieces by Federico Barocci, the Last Supper and the Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian. Facing

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the eastern side of the Duke’s Palace there is an Egyptian obelisk dated 580 B.C., donated to the city in 1737 by Cardinal Albani (whose name has also been given to the Diocesan Museum). As we continue our trail through this harmonious medley of different ages, at just a short distance from here, we come across the gothic Church of Saint Dominick, with its elegant Renaissance portal. Urbino was the birthplace of Raffaello Sanzio and in Via Raffaello it is possible to see the 16th century home of the artist, now a house museum in which the Madonna and Child fresco is preserved, also thought to be his work. Also dedicated to Raffaello is the monument standing at the end of the street, a tribute by the city to one of the icons of Italian art in the world.

The fourteenth century Albornoz Fortress is the highest point in the city and provides a charming location, in summer months, for numerous concerts of contemporary music.

At a short distance from the houses in the city centre, the mausoleum of Frederick of Montefeltro stands guard over the city (the Church of San Bernardino degli Zoccolanti), so that what he conceived as the most fascinating art laboratory in the Peninsula might never forget its origins and its lofty ambition. He certainly looks down with a smile, seeing the most prestigious art city of the Marche excel in culture and above all, in the warm hospitality it offers to tourists. It really is the ideal city.

Above: the Duke’s Palace of Urbino and, in the background, the Cathedral dome.

On the left: view of the town.

Velvety beaches The coastline of the Marche region looks onto the Adriatic sea for over 180 kilometres, with more than 15 well organized seaside resorts, ten ports and harbours (comprising Ancona, which is one of the most important seaports of Italy, and nine tourist marinas) and as many as 16 Blue Flag locations, an international award conferred by the “Foundation for Environmental Education” (FEE) certifying the quality of the local seawater and services.

At this point, and with the assurance that whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong, you just have to decide between fine sandy beaches, pebble coves, rocks or palms. In brief, which “Riviera” will you choose to spend a relaxing and enjoyable holiday on? The Riviera delle Colline, for instance, is one long sandy beach interrupted by a headland in the proximity of the pretty resort, Gabicce Mare, and presents brief stretches of pebbly beaches and deep water. Gabicce extends over two levels: the lower part, positioned on the gulf, is surrounded by vegetation, while the upper part of town is perched above the sea and ideal for an evening out with its nightclubs and characteristic restaurants (owing to its position it is called Gabicce Monte).

The more romantically inclined must visit the harbour of Baia Vallugola and the Castle of Gradara, a scenario of magical atmospheres and events of times gone by (the castle “of the lovers” Paolo and Francesca, narrated by Dante Alighieri). Pesaro and Fano are also well worth a visit and are linked by a

beautiful scenic road, not forgetting Marotta di Mondolfo, a seaside resort with its ancient medieval village.

When on the Riviera di Velluto around Ancona, Falconara Marittima, but particularly Senigallia are the ideal spots for those seeking fine white sandy beaches, broken only by piers and the picturesque Rotonda a Mare, a circular sea terrace. 13 kilometres of coastline with a rich offering of accommodation facilities dominated by the Rocca Roveresca, just a few steps away from the old town centre.

The Riviera del Conero, on the other hand, has a completely different aura with Portonovo, Sirolo and the two locations of Numana: the atmosphere in Numana Alta is a moving one, owing to its position perched high above the sea and the existence of little beaches sheltering between the cliffs, while Numana Bassa, also called Marcelli, offers a more dynamic seaside holiday, with its pebbly coastline and a plentiful offering of accommodation and entertainment. From Numana, it is possible to take a boat and reach the more intimate beaches, exploiting this resort’s vocation as a natural harbour, a feature the ancient Piceni had already identified as the strong point of this place (archaeological remains of this ancient civilization are exhibited in the Numana State Antiquarium).

The Riviera of Macerata is set in the natural greenery of its pinewoods: Porto Recanati, the “drawing room of the Riviera”, is a modern seaside resort that successfully cohabits with the charming and picturesque corners of the old seafaring village, which developed around the fifteenth century Svevo Castle; Civitanova Marche rises on the remains of the Roman settlement Cluana and, as well as its seaside, offers the possibility to shop in the many outlets of the best fashion designers.

This leaves us with the green Riviera Picena, which rotates around Porto Sant’Elpidio, Lido di Fermo and Porto San Giorgio, and the exotic Riviera delle Palme, where as many as 7,000 palm trees are the leitmotiv of the numerous resorts in this area, the most important of which is San Benedetto del Tronto, very popular with the nineteenth century nobility, who added a note of elegance to the long white beach by erecting a great number of holiday homes in art nouveau style.

Above: the beach of Numana. On the left: the beach of Sirolo.

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Lazio

An ancient land that represents the true cradle of Italian civilization.

While Rome, with its international fame and prestige, is certainly the

most important destination for tourists from all over the world, it should not be overlooked that

there are other locations in Latium of great interest: from the Etruscan necropolises excavated in tufa stone to the numerous Roman archaeological sites, as well as a succession of buildings, villas, castles and monuments of different ages that have been accumulated down through the centuries to create a harmonious bridge between past and present. Just like the countless village festivals that manage to create an atmosphere of ancient folklore for our present-day enjoyment.

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Set between

ancient splendour and modern gems

LATIUM

Opposite page: a stretch of the Via Appia Antica. This page, clockwise: remains of the Roman aqueduct of Tarquinia; a view of the Imperial Forums in Rome; Piazza del Popolo in Latina.

In the cradle of the empire The native land of the Latini, Etruscans and Romans, Latium reveals the signs of a magnificent past in each corner of its territory. The most northern part of the region around Viterbo is called Tuscia, which is pure Etruscan; the area close to the borders of Umbria, Marche and Abruzzo is Sabina, which extends from the banks of the Tiber to the homonymous hills of the Central Apennine chain, in the province of Rieti; finally, the Circeo is a promontory before which lie the Pontine islands and comprises the area extending to the Alban mounts, in the province of Latina. To the south of Rome, you will encounter the Ciociaria, which takes its name from the traditional footwear called ciocie and includes the area of Frosinone. These few elements would suffice to trace a sufficiently ancient and vivid picture to show how coveted this area has always been. An account of the mythical foundation of Rome will even lead to digressions into the world of legends and epic storytelling, such as when the profile of the sorceress Circe, the enchantress of Ulysses in the Odyssey, is recognizable in the morphology of the homonymous headland (the Circeo), or when narrating the story of Aeneas, the protagonist of the Aeneid who, fleeing from the city of Troy, reaches Latium and marries Lavinia, daughter of the local king Latinus. Romulus and Remus, the she-wolf, the countless mythological tales: everything has contributed to creating

an atmosphere of mystery and legend around the territory of Latium. But it is not all imagination and literature: in Latium, as perhaps in no other place, archaeological evidence transforms everything into something more tangible. All the most important roads in Italy started out from Rome (in 44 B.C. Caesar was the first ever to recruit geographers to draw up maps of all existing roads), passed through Latium and continued their course along the Peninsula to unite cities in a way that responded to a set of precise criteria. It is still possible to travel down many of these roads today, such as via Amerina in Corchiano, via Cassia Antica in Campagnano, via della Pineta della Campana in Nettuno, or via Sacra in Rocca di Papa, a beautiful paved road that used to lead to the top of Monte Cavo, where the Temple of Jupiter used to stand, an important sanctuary of the Latini and other populations of South Latium. Another treasure of Latium are its necropolises, excavated in the rock in the past and decorated with incredible sumptuousness. For instance, the necropolis of Tarquinia extends for about 750 hectares with its 200 chamber tombs characterised by painted decorations, testifying to the evolution of the Etruscan civilization from the VII to the III century B.C. And this is the rich cultural breeding ground on which the Roman Empire was based and was to evolve later, an empire which became “official” under Augustus and was destined to undergo a transformation in the course of time, leaving traces of its passage in every subsequent age, up until the present day. An empire that revolved constantly around its capital. An empire that made enormous efforts to “Romanize” the lands it conquered and which grew excessively to the point of crumbling under the blows inflicted by younger and more vital kingdoms. An empire that suffered from the presence of Christianity (today the Pope’s seat is in the Vatican City, in the very heart of Rome). An empire that has fired the imagination of the populations and powerful figures of every age, as in the case of the Fascist regime, which set out to recover the rituals and symbols of Ancient Rome to consecrate its own power. To imitate the expansionistic exploits of his valorous ancestors, Mussolini guided the “conquest” of Ethiopia and the foundation of new towns on the Italian soil: a perfect example is provided by Latina, the most important town created during the fascist era (1932), built around Piazza del Popolo and Piazza della Libertà, so unique in fact that it is a candidate for UNESCO heritage listing.

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Rome caput mundi Nothing could be closer to the truth: Rome is a hub of history, art and culture. A cosmopolitan city which is not only the capital of the Italian Republic, but also one of the most fascinating places on earth. It is difficult to attempt a description of this city in a few lines since it represents layer upon layer of different ages, monuments and opportunities that defy definition. A visit to Rome may follow a thousand different themes and leitmotifs: there is the traditional tourist trail, recommended for those on their first visit with only a limited amount of time, which leads to the Colosseum (or rather the Flavian Amphitheatre), the Imperial Forums, the Altar of the Homeland (or Vittoriano), the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps. Without forgetting to stop off at St. Peter’s Square in the Vatican City to visit the famous Basilica.

But there are plenty of minor curiosities to explore in the city: you can go for a tour of the seven hills, Capitolino, Aventino, Palatino, Viminale, Esquilino, Celio and Quirinale, to find out what remains of the legend. Or it is possible to go round the seven churches and early Christian relics, including a visit to the fascinating catacombs. Or why not follow the course of the River Tiber, and experience the surprise of a close-up view of the majestic Castel Sant’Angelo and the precious little jewel of imperial Roman art, the Ara Pacis.

Without forgetting a tour of the ruins. The discovery of Ancient Rome, in fact, is the only way to understand its proportions, dimensions and power: when you observe the Baths of Caracalla in their magnificence or you walk down the Appia Antica, which never seems to end, under the shade of its cluster pines, or when you consider that a whole stadium lies beneath Piazza Navona... you fully grasp the fact that you

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Province: Rome Altitude: 21 m asl Inhabitants: 2 786 034 Tourist information: PIT Punto Informazioni Turistiche r Termini Railway Station - Via G. Giolitti 34, Int. building F – platform 24 r Fori - Via dei Fori Imperiali r Navona - Piazza delle Cinque Lune Contact Center 060608 www.turismoroma.it 64

are in a truly historical capital city. A city in which Augustus could erect incredible constructions on the Palatino and Nero could build palaces like the Domus Aurea. Without forgetting the imperial Forums, a truly amazing and fascinating revelation once you grasp the concept of their organization.

At just a short distance from the Forums, you can set off on a tour of ministries and the most important institutional buildings: the changing of the guard at the Quirinale, a civil marriage ceremony at the Campidoglio, the comings and goings of the authorities under the Column of Marcus Aurelius in front of Palazzo Chigi, are all events that attract a crowd!

Not to mention the tour of Rome’s artworks, which would take more than one lifetime to complete: from Caravaggio’s paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi to the works of the Capitolini Museums and the Borghese Gallery, to end up with the inestimable wealth of the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel, to mention but a few.

A visit to the cinema locations of Rome can be an innovative and extremely interesting experience: in the film studios of Cinecittà it is possible to admire the reconstructions of the great films sets or the amazing set of Ancient Rome (used for television serials, films and documentaries of all kinds) and find out more about great Italian film stars, also by examining their props. The gallery dedicated to Alberto Sordi, one of the most world-famous Roman actors, is particularly significant.

This list could go on forever with various theme suggestions.

What never disappoints visitors, however, is the theme trail focused on getting to know the old Roman quarters: from Trastevere to Testaccio and Campo dei Fiori. What could be more authentic than enjoying a dish of Amatriciana, Carbonara or some saltimbocca, with your heart filled with love for the eternal city and all it has to offer, wherever you happen to look.

Castles, hills and flower festivals “Ma che ‘cce frega, ma che ‘cce ‘mporta” is a song that has gone around the world. It may also be considered a dedication to the Castles, that particular territory dotted with medieval villages, charming little towns, ancient hamlets, stately mansions, castles and archaeological remains extending over an area lying to the south east of Rome. The landscape and natural environment are protected by the Regional Park of the Roman Castles, extending over the Alban Hills, which used to be an area frequented by the capital’s noble families and popes for their vacations, with about 9,500 hectares of protected land, covered by a thick network of country paths inhabited by badgers, martens, peregrine falcons, porcupines and wolves. Of the many trails extending between the sixteen municipalities making up this area, the most well-known is the one starting out from Lanuvio, a village close to Velletri, surrounded by fortified walls where, once inside, visitors feel as though they have entered another dimension, to be catapulted into the Middle Ages, owing to the perfect preservation of its ancient buildings. These include the X century medieval Tower, which houses the municipal wine cellar, the ideal place in which to taste the fine DOC wines of the Castles. From here, a panoramic road leads to Genzano, a little town on the via Appia located on the crater of Lake Nemi. The houses here are constructed in a curious radial pattern over the hill: of its streets, the most important are the three roads that were constructed in the 17th century and which make up the so-called “Baroque trident”.

From Genzano, you can go on to visit Ariccia, where Palazzo Chigi represents one of the finest examples of European Baroque, with its original furnishings still intact, portraits of the female personages of this family and an extremely precious printed leather used as a wall covering. When in Ariccia, you have to taste its famous spit-roasted pork! Now it is time to set off for Albano Laziale, which rises on the volcanic hills whose name it has adopted and which faces the homonymous lake: here it is possible to pay a very interesting visit to the “Cisternone”, an underground cistern constructed by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus and which still supplies its waters to an operative aqueduct today. This Roman town used to have its own amphitheatre on the hill and it is possible to admire a large tomb in tufa stone which is said to be that of the legendary Horatii and Curiatii, as well as the fascinating catacombs of San Senatore (one of the largest underground cemeteries known to man).

The last stopover is Castelgandolfo, which has always been the Popes’ summer residence, and is the 17th century makeover of

Opposite page: Rome, the Colosseum. Above: the residential area of Castel Gandolfo on Lake Albano.

the Savelli Family’s castle in the Papal Palace: inside, it houses the Vatican astronomical observatory (“Specola Vaticana”), one of the most important of its kind today. Here too, everything comprising archaeological remains and fine construction work, such as the Church of Saint Thomas of Villanova, was signed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The long list of locations well worth visiting could go on to include Frascati, Grottaferrata, Monte Porzio Catone, Rocca di Papa, Marino and so on.

The municipalities populating the area of Latium which now offers the greatest number of events come to life with their profane grape festivals and the religious “flower festivals” known as “infiorate”: the most ancient one in the world is that of Genzano which takes place on the day of Corpus Domini (the first one dates back to 1778). That of the flower festivals is an ancient tradition demanding the participation of master “infioratori” to compose enormous floral pavement mosaics representing artworks, documents and sacred images, all made from the petals of any type of flower. All of the 86 Municipalities of Latium engaged in flower festivals between April and May offer an amazing show and an elegant blaze of colours.

Every town and village has its own version of porchetta The inhabitants of Ariccia claim it as their own, on the grounds that it dates back to Etruscan times. There are two basic ways of seasoning this meat: in the area of the Roman Castles, where it is eaten with the bread of Genzano in venues called “fraschette”, it is seasoned with rosemary; so much so, in fact, that in Ariccia it is referred to as: “la porca co’ un bosco de rosmarino in de’ la panza” (pork with a rosemary bush in its belly). In Upper Latium, on the other hand, it is seasoned with wild fennel: this typical spit-roasted pork can be enjoyed in Vignanello and Vallerano, in the Tuscia area around Viterbo. In Poggio Bustone it has been celebrated for the last 60 years in a festival held on the first Sunday in October, the feast day of the Madonna and Saint Francis.

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Abruzzo An Adriatic coast which starts to

jag. Resorts made for families, not

too mundane nor too isolated, full of history, like Vasto and Francavilla

al Mare. But also promontories that are reflected in the sea, such as the Promontorio del Turchino (named after the colour of the water from the deep hues, on the coast of San Vito Chietino) and Punta Penna, which has a tower overlooking the port basin and with a balcony from which you can enjoy a wide panorama that goes from Gargano to Ortona.

Immediately beside the lush wild mountain with its protected parks and the rare animal species that inhabit them. Abruzzo is the ideal destination for a holiday fully immersed in nature.

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The spectacle of nature

ABRUZZO

Green for all tastes Three national parks (Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, the Majella, and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga), a regional park (Sirente Velino) and around fifty protected areas, nature reserves and territorial parks. And then there are numerous lakes with their individual ecosystems ... Nature in Abruzzo, dominates unchallenged. It must be discovered with curiosity and respect, with all those means for an active holiday that are ideal to explore the region: on foot, by bicycle, on horseback. For cycling tourists, the numerous parks offer a rare opportunity to move from the sea to the highest peaks of the Apennines in a few tens of kilometres. In fact, there are many routes along the coast or on the rugged mountains, on the hills or on the edges of impressive ravines, around the lakes or along the green banks of the rivers, among the beech forests or on the highlands, in short for bikers of all levels and with routes of varying difficulty.

While pedalling along the many dirt roads or carrarecce with little traffic (used only by shepherds or loggers) it is not difficult to see Romanesque churches, hidden hermitages, ancient stone huts, medieval castles and charming villages that speak of the discreet and deep history of this region, but are not included in the traditional tourist routes: small realities of the past, nestled harmoniously in a wild and relaxing setting.

Widespread for some years now in many parks and the so called “Abruzzo bridleways” is equestrian tourism: the horse is without a doubt the best way to introduce yourself into this environment. Running over meadows, through woods, moving alongside rivers or lakes is indeed a thrilling experience riding with a companion of adventure who knows how to move in harmony with the rhythms of the other inhabitants of these green places, the many animals that make Abruzzo unique.

And then you will discover hidden places unreachable by car or motor vehicles. In 2006 the Ippovia del Gran Sasso was born, the longest horse riding circuit in Italy, which runs through the park of the same name across the province of L’Aquila, Pescara and Teramo with a distance of 320 Km traced and signalled route along mule-tracks, trails and mountain roads. Along the route there are equipped rest areas with shelters for horses and travellers. With numerous equestrian centres where you can “rent” a horse and an instructor, for a holiday in complete safety even for those who are beginners.

For lovers of trekking, however, each park offers hiking trails equipped for any type of accessibility: children, the disabled, as well as simple tourists who want to hike in nature but are not trained. The National Park of Majella has completed a series of trails of varying difficulty: the path of the Grotta Zappano, for example, in the western part of the park, to Lama Bianca Sant’Eufemia, consisting of a walk of about 30 minutes, with equipped picnic areas. The so-called Sentiero del Parco, however, is the most comprehensive but also the most challenging due to the 78 km linking Percocostanzo and Popoli touching the main peaks, including Monte Amaro (the highest at 2793 meters above sea level) and the northern part of Morrone. A route that really winds its way into the wilderness, passing through only one town (Caramanico) and very few equipped refreshment points. But one itinerary that offers a unique experience, crossing woods, pastures, crops, but also the so-called “macereti” (rubble) of high altitude and with a lunar-looking appearance and the most natural and undisturbed flora and fauna population in Italy.

Opposite page: a group of chamois. Above from the left: a composition of sugar-coated almonds from Sulmona; the church of Madonna delle Grazie in Teramo; landscape in the National Park of Majella. Below: the coastline of Vasto.

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Chieti The “Italian wonder” which is the stuff of legends Province: Chieti Altitude: 330 m asl Inhabitants: 53,937 Tourist information: Abruzzo Promozione Turismo – Chieti Via Spaventa, 47 Tel. +39 0871 63640 www.abruzzoturismo.it

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The history of Chieti takes us back a long time, even into mythology: according to legend the town was founded in 1181 BC by the hero Achilles, who called it Teate in honour of his mother, the goddess Thetis. It is not surprising that the city’s inhabitants today are called Theatines and that the Homeric hero is represented in the coat of arms on a prancing horse, while holding a spear and a shield on which is depicted a white cross on a red field with four keys, representing the four gates into medieval Chieti (Porta Sant’Anna, Porta Santa Maria, Porta Napoli and Porta Pescara). Legends about the origin of the city actually differ; what is certain is that the city was the capital of the warlike people of the Marrucini, famous for their fierce fighting with the Romans, to whom they surrendered and with whom they formed an alliance in many battles (e.g. against Pyrrhus, Hannibal and the Cisalpine Gauls).

This ancient history is still to be seen in the city, where Roman

Above: the Cathedral of Chieti.

remains co-exist with those of the Angevins and the Aragoneses, who transformed the face of the town in a period of great development. The city also boasts an entire underground city which was the former Teate, just below the present city centre, and which can visited on rare and precious occasions. The city’s main street, Corso Marrucino, which starts from Piazza Trento e Trieste (commonly known as piazza Trinità) and ends at Arniense Street, in the heart of the historic centre. On this street there are now numerous offices, moved here as a result of the damage sustained by their historic premises in other areas of the city during the L’Aquila earthquake of 6 April 2009. In the neoclassical villa whose construction was requested by Baron Frigerj and later donated to the municipality, tourists can not miss the National Archaeological Museum of Abruzzo, with a huge garden of old trees, populated by fountains, terracings with panoramic views of the city and toward Mount Majella, typical Italian garden hedges and small forests with illuminated lakes, walkways and stone bridges. At the centre there is piazzale Mazzini with a monumental fountain: an elegant and sophisticated complex which has earned the town the recognition of “Italian Wonder” by the National Youth Forum, a partner of the Presidency of the Council of Ministers, the European Youth Forum and the National Agency for young people.

L’Aquila, which does not give in The magnificent city of L’Aquila is still a ghost town after the earthquake of 2009. The monuments damaged by the earthquake, in the silence of the historic centre that is still inaccessible, tell the story of the medieval splendour, papal influence, Spanish domination: the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio with the Holy Door of Pope Celestine V, the fifteenth-century Basilica di San Bernardino, the Spanish Fort and the Fountain of 99 jets with its stone masks and the unknown origins of the water, whose source is not known.

A city of art that is suffering, but animated by the good humour and courage of the people of L’Aquila, who, like everyone, expect to see their homes, the centre and its wonders live again.

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On the trail of the wolf and the bear A symbol of the Abruzzo, Latim and Molise National Park, the Marsican Brown Bear (Ursus arctos marsicanus) is a subspecies that is genetically differentiated from bears in the Alps and only live in central Italy. The latest research estimates that in the park and surrounding areas there is a population of about 55-60 representatives of the species. It is very difficult to find these specimens, which are between 100 and 150 kg (females are slightly smaller) with a length which ranges from a metre and a half to well over 2 metres. Each specimen can live for more than twenty years in the forests of Abruzzo, where they find peace and food, but also move to the highest-altitude grasslands in different seasons, looking for a dry and safe place to spend the winter months: the bear, in fact, when the cold arrives falls into a partial lethargy, that allows it to cope with low temperatures and the absence of food, but also to exit the lair on sunny days.

Another important species, but not exclusive to the Abruzzo National Park, is the Apennine Wolf (Canis lupus lupus), one of the most persecuted animals and severely threatened with extinction. It can live alone or in small packs, hierarchi-

cally organized, and moves continuously showing great skill in escaping hidden dangers as well as seeking its prey which are mostly small animals, in the mild season, and ungulates during winter. The wolf is also a very difficult animal to spot: with mainly nocturnal habits, during the day it takes refuge in the most wild and inaccessible parts of the forest.

The signs of its presence that are the easiest to find in the territory are the tracks which are very similar to those of a large dog, but arranged in a single row. Among the fauna of the Park we certainly must not forget the native Abruzzo Chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata), with about 700 specimens in the Park. It is by far the easiest protected animal to come across, and must be observed in total silence to avoid it from becoming frightened and fleeing. It is a herbivore, common in grasslands at high altitudes, which descends the valley and enters the woods in winter. In the Park it lives in the Camosciara mountains (the name of the place is reminiscent of the animal population), on Monte Meta, Mainarde, Monte Amaro, Monte Marsicano and the mountains that surround the Canneto valley. The same for the deer (Cervus elaphus hippelaphus) and the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) almost completely disappeared from the park until the Seventies, when they were reintroduced.

To better enjoy the experience of observing these animals, Visitor Centres are open to the public and are almost always combined with wildlife areas, areas of fenced land in which the animals live in a state of semi-freedom. The main function of these areas is scientific, but they also have an important educational role: here it is possible to see those species that would be difficult to see in the wild, without disturbing them. These areas include the Pescasseroli wildlife park, the wildlife areas of the wolf and lynx in Civitella Alfedena, the wildlife areas of the bear in Villavallelonga and Campoli Appenninico, those of the deer in Lecce dei Marsi and Scanno and that of the chamois in Opi.

Above: an Apennine wolf. On the left: a Marsican brown bear.

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Campania

The ancient Romans gave the name Campania Felix to the prosperous area of the city of Capua and the

neighbouring municipalities, which extends from Monte Massico to the Phlegraean Fields. Today, the area around the city of Naples, Caserta, Benevento, Avellino and Salerno, still looks like an area extremely rich in culture, the raw material which in the course of history, from then until the present day, has never abandoned this coast on the Tyrrhenian Sea. A culture that combines in a harmonious and lively way with the wonders of nature: the Amalfi Coast, Cilento and the many other places to discover!

The wonderful treasures of

a Terra Felix

CAMPANIA

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Opposite page: Castel dell’Ovo and the small harbour of Santa Lucia, in Naples. This page, clockwise from the left: Vesuvius; a bay along the Amalfi Coast; a street in Pompeii.

In the shadow of Vesuvius, a past and present on the seashore The city of Naples, according to the legend was founded by a Greek girl named Parthenope, and is undoubtedly an extraordinary balcony over the gulf that bears its name. A gulf and a coastline that offer tourists archaeological sites all over the territory, spas on the island of Ischia, in Castellammare di Stabia or on the Phlegrean coast, but also wild nature parks (Vesuvius and Astroni), the glamour of Capri and its little square, underwater archaeological sites such as Baia and Gaiola and the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Cultural tourism coexists with beach tourism: bays, coves and isolated beaches, but also private sailing and cruise ships!

Vesuvius keeps a silent vigil over this landscape, mindful of the destruction in 79 AD which led it to the elimination, with its eruption, of the towns of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia, today archaeological sites (UNESCO heritage) unique in the world due to the extraordinary conservation of the finds and of the structures immobilised by the eruptive force in the last dramatic hours of their life. To add to the cultural weight of these areas, Campania by the sea has the good food of the Mediterranean tradition, the friendliness, the warmth and kindness of the people, to complete a classic “Italian style” holiday.

Going north, the province of Caserta is ideally divided into three big areas by the great cultural, folklore and especially morphological variety: mountain massifs such as the Matese or the Preapennines alternate with the plains, overlooking the sea in Litorale Domizio, so named because of the Via Domitiana that ran through the area at the time of the ancient

Romans. These 45 kilometres of wide and sandy coast are covered with a varied Mediterranean vegetation that creates beautiful ecosystems. To join the sea, culture and art, a must is a visit to the Reggia di Caserta, the nineteenth-century historical residence of the royal house of Bourbon (now included on the UNESCO heritage list), surrounded by a large park divided into an Italian garden, with its many fountains among which the famous Grande Cascata, and an English garden with thick woods and a less regular appearance. Called “the last Baroque building in Italy”, it is home to the Appartamenti Vecchi (Old Apartments), the Appartamenti Nuovi (New Apartments), all furnished with original furniture, and the precious Quadreria.

Going down the coast south of Naples, the area around Salerno is an authentic place of beautiful landscapes (from Cilento to Vallo di Diano), tasty food and wine tours, yet unique archaeological sites (Paestum, for example) and the famous Costiera Amalfitana, a stretch of coast, also known as “Divina Costiera” (Divine Coast), a popular area for international beach tourism. Also the Costiera, with Amalfi, Atrani, Cetara, Conca de Marini, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Praiano, Ravello, Scala, Tramonti and Vietri sul Mare belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites: you can not miss the staircase of the spectacular Amalfi Cathedral, a walk through the colourful streets and clothes shops of Positano with the new Auditorium designed in 2012 by the late Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer.

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Naples, a concentration of culture, sea and energy

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Province: Naples Altitude: 17 m asl Inhabitants: 957 012 Tourist information Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno, Cura e Turismo r Via San Carlo, 9 - Tel. +39 081 402394 r Piazza del Gesù - Tel. +39 081 5512701 - www.inaples.it

Above: Piazza del Plebiscito with the church of San Francesco di Paola.

Capital of the Bourbon Kingdom, one of the largest historical centres among the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, home of the pizza: Naples is not only a metropolis, but also one of the centres with the highest density of monuments in Italy and one of the largest reserves of popular traditions.

To discover it you can follow the historical trail, moving around the town in the footsteps of the Greeks and Romans (the Greek walls of Piazza Cavour, the ancient theatre on via dell’Anticaglia, just off the bustling Via Duomo, the “Palazzo di Nerone” decorated with the application of Roman remains, the paleochristian basilica and baptistery of Santa Restituta, now incorporated into the Cathedral, the Greek agorà and then the Roman forum of Neapolis in Piazza San Gaetano, the excavations under San Lorenzo Maggiore, the Greek walls in Piazza Bellini that ended in the current Piazza San Domenico, dominated by the central spire, and in piazza Trianon) or following the traces of the Middle Ages (from 1266, Charles I of Anjou made Naples the capital of his kingdom, bringing to the city the artistic influences of French Gothic, as in the chapel of San Gennaro, or the spire of Santa Maria Maggiore) or following the ideals of the Renaissance or still discovering the signs of the Baroque and Rococò (Spanish rule in Naples gave it its current face, like the silver statues of the Treasure of San Gennaro in the Cathedral, the exuberant character of the Neapolitan Baroque, while the anti-Baroque Austrian rule brought the “gooseneck” stairs, large tiled floors and nativity shepherds, of marked rococo style).

Anyone who loves the past and literature can go up the hill that separates Mergellina from Fuorigrotta, next to the ancient tuff caves: here visitors can admire the tomb of Virgil, enriched with Roman inscriptions dated 1930, and the tomb of the poet Giacomo Leopardi, who died in Naples in 1837.

Or you can experience Naples as a tourist, to marvel at the most famous places: Piazza del Plebiscito, Palazzo Reale,

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Castel dell’Ovo and the Maschio Angioino, the Teatro San Carlo, the Cathedral with the relics of San Gennaro and the Cloister of Santa Chiara.

Some people like to “live” Naples and exploring the neighbourhoods is the best way to get into the everyday life of the city: Spaccanapoli, via San Gregorio Armeno (with the workshops of traditional nativity scenes open all year round), the promenade of via Caracciolo.

Finally, just a few kilometres out of the city you can reach the gardens and the Reggia di Capodimonte, with the homonymous National Gallery and the eighteenth-century “Royal Porcelain Factory” which produced the famous ceramics prized pieces branded with the Bourbon lily.

Neapolitan tradition at the table A typical Neapolitan dessert for the Easter period, but now available all year round, the pastiera is a cake of crispy shortcrust pastry stuffed with soft ricotta, candied fruit, sugar, eggs and wheat boiled in milk.

The smell and flavour change depending on the spices and aromas: the classics are cinnamon, orange peel and vanilla.

According to the legend, the siren Partenope was exceptional at cooking this delicacy and perhaps has its origins in pagan offerings: the priestesses of Ceres, in particular, carried eggs in procession, a symbol of birth.

Islands of beauty and wellbeing The island of Capri is an essential stage for summer holidays in Campania. The jewel of the Gulf of Naples, in fact, has a unique beauty that has inspired and continues to inspire artists, film directors and poets: the deep green of the lush natural surroundings envelops the steep cliffs overlooking the crystal clear sea, flowing into beautiful caves, dominated by mighty cliffs and coloured by olive, orange and lemon tree groves. Among the caves, the Grotta Azzurra is undoubtedly best known for the different colours taken by its walls and its water during the day. La Piazzetta is the ultimate in sophistication.

If you want to add an element of relaxation and well-being to a beach vacation, you just have to move from Capri to Ischia, a large island with wide sandy beaches that leave space for isolated cliffs and lesser known beaches, accessible only by sea. Its volcanic nature makes Ischia one of the largest spa centres in Europe: there are springs, fumaroles and mud throughout the territory, such that almost every accommodation structure has at least one thermal pool. The island also offers equipped and skilled centres, centres of scientific research on the benefits of thermal waters and sophisticated technology for any type of therapy.

Ischia’s thermal waters are alkaline, containing sulphur, iodine, chlorine, iron, potassium and trace elements of active sub-

Above: the famous Piazzetta in Capri. Below from left to right: a spa pool in Ischia and, in the background, the Castle of Ischia.

stances. Depending on their composition, they are a healing remedy for many diseases. Mineral baths and spas, ozone therapy, showers, mud treatments, turkish baths and underwater massages are also available for those who want a holiday in which to “disconnect” and laze in front of landscapes with an incredible variety of blue tones. The climate and the extraordinary variety of the island’s vegetation complement the health benefits by helping the body and mind to regenerate.

The thermal waters of Ischia have been known since ancient times and are mentioned by Homer in the Iliad, the Aeneid by Virgil and many famous ancients such as Pliny and Strabo: in fact, in the imperial age the baths became a habitual place to visit by the Roman society and it was at that time that the island’s many natural sources were exploited to create the first public spas. The rest is history: 69 Fumarole groups and 29 thermal spring groups, more than 55 hotels with an internal spa centre, 7 thermal parks with swimming pools at different temperatures and exotic vegetation, 6 island municipalities offering services and facilities, and four free natural springs.

There really is something for every taste!

To complete the tour of beauty, all that’s missing is the visit to the island of Procida, also of volcanic nature, less “organized” than the others, but more geared towards direct contact between man and vegetation. In a context of modern accommodation facilities, but always in compliance with the winning combination of culture and nature.

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A sea with bright colours in an incredible variety of shades, a

Puglia

sea that marks a boundary. Two

extremely different seas meet at the

heel of Italy: the Adriatic Sea is sandy, shallow and light blue while the Ionian Sea is rocky, with deep seabed and an intense shade of blue. Some people say that in Santa Maria di Leuca they have seen the clear dividing line between the two seas. What is certain is that the view over the two different basins is breathtaking: the prickly pears add a splash of green and orange to the rocks washed by the sea; the wind causes the waves to break on the rocks and leaves the sand perfectly smooth; the region offers a unique combination of unspoilt beaches and a lively nightlife. Welcome to Apulia!

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One land,

two seas, a thousand splendours

APULIA

Sun, sea and wind Apulia is the easternmost region of Italy and, with about 800 kilometres of coastline, it is the region with the longest coast: the shores of Apulia alternate between rocky stretches of coast (such as the Gargano), cliffs and long stretches of sandy beaches (such as in Salento, the Gulf of Taranto and the Bari area). More than 98% of the coast is suitable for swimming and the crystal clear waters have led it to be known as the “Maldive islands of Italy”.

Inland Apulia offers endless rugged landscapes with fascinating colours: the Tavoliere delle Puglie, which has a surface area of 3,000 square kilometres, is the second largest plain in Italian after the Padanian plain, the Murge, a limestone plateau that lies between the Tavoliere and Salento, the Valley of Itria, with the highest concentration of trulli (the traditional round stone houses with conical roofs). Lastly, there are the islands, tiny paradises of unspoilt nature and clear blue water.

In summer Apulia is a byword for “seaside holidays” with all the various differences in landscape and a wide range of tourist accommodation and facilities. The Tremiti Islands (San Domino, San Nicola and Capraia, as well as the uninhabited island of Pianosa and the islet of Cretaccio) have an indented coastline full of caves and are protected as a marine nature reserve. The largest island is San Domino, the heart of tourism in the Archipelago, which includes Cala delle Arene, the only sandy beach. San Nicola has an atmosphere coloured by history and antiquity with Neolithic sites, Greek tombs, the abbey of Santa Maria a Mare (don’t miss the mosaic floor and the walls) and the fortifications built during its transformation into a penal colony.

Not far away, the marvellous spur of the Gargano with the picturesque towns and villages of Mattinata, Peschici, Rodi Garganico, Manfredonia and Vieste. Peschici is characterised by the traditional trabucchi, structures made of wooden poles which are intertwined with ropes and pulleys and used for fishing: by lowering a large sack-like net into the sea, the operators of these structures (trabucchisti) activate a mechanism and imprison shoals of fish. The trabucchi can also be seen at Vieste, but the town is dominated by Pizzomunno, a monolith of about 25 metres linked to the legend of a tall strong young man in love with the beautiful Cristalda: each day he would venture out to sea harassed in vain by the Sirens who, out of jealousy, took the young girl to the seabed. The following day, the fishermen found that he had turned to stone as a result of his grief and transformed into the rock that bears his name.

The landscape of Salento is completely different and alternates between long golden sandy beaches and imposing cliffs with sheer drops down to the sea. Overlooking two seas, Salento is an amazing tourist destination that boasts authentic features; these range from glamorous lidos, where holiday-makers can enjoy aperitifs on deck-chairs in the sea at sunset or dance all night on the seashore, to large protected pine forests with emblematic names such as Porto Selvaggio. The entire coastline is dominated by fifteenth century watchtowers which survey the sea: there are 12 in the province of Brindisi, 17 in the province of Taranto and as many as 57 in the province of Lecce. The inland areas close to the coast are dotted with large farmhouse complexes which used to be fortified and are now used as holiday farmhouses and high quality tourist accommodation. The architectural landscape overlooking the sea resembles Greece due to the predominance of white flat-roofed houses with terraces, while the towns and cities bear the clear imprint of the Baroque style of Lecce. The true maritime capitals are Gallipoli, on the Ionian Sea, and Otranto, on the Adriatic. The undisputed capital in terms of historical monuments and art is Lecce.

Opposite page: the beach of Mattinata. Above from left to right: the trulli of Alberobello; an expanse of vineyards near Mattinata; the ramparts of Otranto. Below: the coast of Vieste.

Lecce the cultural capital of the Baroque

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Province: Lecce Altitude: 49 m asl Inhabitants: 96,274 Tourist information: Informazioni Accoglienza Turistica Lecce via Vittorio Emanuele, 24 Tel. +39 0832 248092 www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

Lecce lies in the heart of the Salento, the ancient prehistoric city of the Messapians, later a civis romana and then an important city during each subsequent period until the full baroque period whose splendour is still evident. The city is highly stratified into historical periods which all have one common element: the use of the local sandstone (pietra leccese) which was widely available locally, easy to work and beautiful to behold. Dominated by the 29 metre high statue of the patron saint Orontius (Sant’Oronzo), the main square is highly distinctive by virtue of the ruins of the Roman Amphiteatre which was brought to light and enhanced so that it now hosts numerous dance and theatre festivals. The

Above: the rose window of the church of Santa Croce. Below: the Cathedral.

heart of the city, together with the “fashionable meeting place” of Piazza Sant’Oronzo, is piazza del Duomo. The square is wide, spacious, clean and enhanced by the elegance and sophistication of the false baroque façade of the gleaming white cathedral, situated next to the elaborate bell tower recently restored to its original splendour thanks to careful restoration work. The original façade, the entrance to the cathedral, is situated on a side of the building that is less visible.

The most extraordinary landmark of the city is the Church of Santa Croce, with its incredible façade dominated by a rose window and the meticulous formal decoration which illustrates how the Lecce Baroque manages to lighten the seventeenth century style and make it less ostentatious. The same impression continues inside the building where the altars are laden with elegantly carved flowers, fruit and characters, supported by spiral columns, but sensitively accompanied by exquisite workmanship and colouring.

Before entering one of the traditional restaurants or one of the many fashionable pubs (easily recognisable from the crowd of young people thronging the streets of the historic centre), it is worth walking round the city. Follow the city walls and admire the gateways which were named after their orientation or role: Porta Napoli, or “Triumphal Arch”, built in 1548 in honour of Charles V to thank him for the fortifications defending the city; Porta Rudiae, which takes its name from the ancient Messapian city whose first centre was situated in this area; Porta San Biagio, built on the ruins of an ancient tower and protected by the statue of the saint from which the gate takes its name. After completing the tour, the next step is to explore Lecce’s local products: besides the workshops that make prestigious objects from the local sandstone, the city is also renowned for its papier mâché workshops, a traditional craft of Lecce which leads to quite extraordinary creations; in this case too, artisans fashion unique objects of all kinds and sizes, with both sacred themes (the Virgin Mary or the Nativity) and secular themes (trades and traditional figures). A fitting conclusion to this brief tour of the city, which is best explored without a street map but by getting lost in the stone-paved streets of the historic centre, is the discovery of local culinary specialities: an excellent local pastry called pasticciotto provides a sweet conclusion to the trip. Made from baked shortcrust pastry filled with confectioner’s custard: this is another way to fall in love with the city!

Village fairs and festivals with the rhythm of the pizzica Of all the local events, the most famous is the Notte della Taranta (Night of Tarantula), which draws tens of thousands of fans of the pizzica to Melpignano in August (120,000 visitors in 2012). It is the wonderful final evening of a travelling festival which involves numerous towns in the region throughout the summer with its music.

People dance the pizzica, a traditional dance with ancient origins (records of it go back to the fourteenth century) which is typical of Salento, but also of the area of Matera in Basilicata, the Cilento in Campania and certain areas of Sicily. The dance belongs to the family of the tarantelle, linked to the curative practices of tarantism but essentially a joyful dance to be performed during celebrations and convivial moments. Traditional accompaniments are the handkerchief or the shawl, essential accessories in the clothing of the past, which were waved during dances to invite the chosen partner: they were therefore not meant to be a token of love but were simply a way of enlivening the dance.

Food festivals also multiply in summer almost as fast as the incessant rhythm of the pizzica: they range from the Sagra della Pittula (held in many local towns and villages), devoted to savoury or sweet fried balls of dough to the Sagra te la Carne alla Turca (Festival of Meat in the Turkish Style), held in Surano in early August, a celebration of the traditional dish of oriental origin – extremely spicy pork – and the “Nettare dei pizzicati”, a liqueur made from “murtheddrha” (myrtle berries) from the hills of Salento, known as “Serre salentine”. Other festivals include the Sagra ti lu purpu (Octopus festival), Sagra te la purpetta (Meatball festival) and the much more recently established festival called Birra&Sound, held in Leverano. The pizzica also has a more “warlike” version which is extremely fascinating: the Danza delle Spade (The Dance of the Swords). In Torrepaduli, on the midAugust holiday, a dance is performed to the insistent rhythm of the tambourine by pairs of male dancers who simulate a duel by dancing and challenging each other with their arms.

In July, in Taranto, the famous Palio comes to an end. This palio is an event performed in period costume with the two races of rowing boats linked to their respective city districts. Another event in which the protagonists wear period costume is held in Oria, in the second week of August, to commemorate the arrival of Federick II of Swabia in 1225: after the medieval procession, the races between the four districts are held. On the third Saturday in June, in Fasano, “La Scamiciata” is staged. It features a historical commemoration of the victory over the Turks in 1678 beneath the city walls while another festival held in Lucera in August

Above: a moment during the Night of Tarantula.

commemorates the expulsion of the Saracens and the accession of the Angevins. On the 26th August, each year, a special event is held in the bright white town of Ostuni to celebrate the patron saint Orontius. The celebrations involve the “Cavalcata”, a procession of horses and riders dressed up in red. The festival of St Oronzo is the most important festival held in the area; all the towns and villages in the area celebrate the patron saint in their own way, as in Turi. Here the saint’s martyrdom is recalled beginning with a procession from the cave where, according to legend, the bishop celebrated mass. The main feature of the procession is the gigantic triumphal chariot pulled by six mules.

The list of religious and secular celebrations, featuring folklore, traditional foods and lively music, is endless. Each town and village in Apulia offers events of this kind: visitors just need to discover them to enliven the evenings of a“seaside”holiday with a touch of tradition!

The “black souls” of Apulia Primitivo di Manduria Doc and Negramaro: these dark red wines are the “black souls” of Apulia. The first wine takes its name from the fact that the Primitivo grapes ripen very early. It was originally made in the Ionian-Salentine coastal regions, although it later spread to the Murge and the areas of Taranto and Bari. The Primitivo grape was first cultivated intensively by Benedictine monks in the twelfth century in the area of Gioia del Colle; throughout Apulia, Primitivo is made in many different versions: table wine, amabile (sweet), and in two liqueur-like versions, one dryer and one sweeter (liquoroso secco and liquoroso dolce). Negramaro is a very different red wine, grown almost exclusively in Salento. The origin of the name is linked simply to the repetition of the word nero (black) in two languages: niger (in Latin) and mavros (in ancient Greek). It is particularly well-suited to making rosé wines and, as a consequence, the most widespread DOC wine is Salice Salentino.

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Calabria

Whoever chooses Calabria for their holidays does so for its 800 kilometres of beaches. A fortunate choice, considering how variegated these coastlines are, from lively, well organized bathing establishments to remote beaches immersed in wild natural surroundings. Even the morphology of the coastline lends itself to those seeking variety, with fine sandy beaches and rocky stretches at just a short distance from each other. The inland areas, on the other hand, offer marvellous mountainous landscapes and trekking itineraries that follow in the footsteps of the Sila brigands and fauna, wolves first and foremost. And what about the local cuisine, which adds colour and flavour to every landscape, together with history and archaeology, giving the toe of the Italian boot the aura of a glorious past.

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The toe

of the boot

CALABRIA

Midst ancient mythology and legends Washed by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and the Ionian Sea to the east, Calabria opens up on its north-eastern side to the Gulf of Taranto and is delimited towards the south-west by the Straits of Messina, which separate Punta Pezzo from the Sicilian coast by just 3.2 km. In the course of history, the Straits of Messina themselves have actually inspired the myths and legends that confer charm to the magical scenario of these locations: the first stories date back to Homer who tells of Ulysses challenging the two terrifying monsters, Scylla and Charybdis, standing respectively on the Calabrian and Sicilian shores. Not surprising really, if we consider that the turbulent currents of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet and collide at the exact point where the straits are narrowest, to create sudden and unexpected whirlpools, which were certainly treacherous for the seafarers of ancient times. There is no doubt that the seabeds of the Straits represent an authentic paradise for scuba divers: the submerged mountains of Scilla are in fact carpeted with expanses of yellow-red and orange Gorgonian sea fans; the depths around Reggio and Capo d’Armi, on the other hand, are sandier but inhabited by a unique marine fauna.

A phenomenon still visible in the Straits is that of the Morgana Fairy which, in certain weather conditions, makes the shadows and reflections of Messina’s houses and lights stretch over the water to join those of Reggio Calabria, creating the sensation of being able to see one single immense city. Legend has it that, during the Barbarian invasions, in August, a barbarian king arrived in Reggio Calabria and, wondering how to reach Sicily, was tricked by the Morgana Fairy who made the island appear a few steps away from the king. Under the illusion that he could reach it by swimming a few strokes, he was drowned and perished in the sea.

The nearby Capo Vaticano, with its magical headland looking out over the Tyrrhenian Sea, owes its name to the Latin word Vaticinium, meaning “oracle”, since legend has it that its extreme tip is inhabited by the prophetess Manto. Sailors would visit her before venturing out into the whirlpools of Scylla and Charybdis, and Ulysses himself, once he had escaped the treacherous rocks, consulted Manto as to the favourable outcome of the journey ahead. Beaches of fine white sand, washed by crystal-clear water, extend under the headland. One of the most

Opposite page: the coast of Scilla at sunset. Above from the left: a craftsman at work; a view of Palizzi; ruins of the Greek theatre of Sibari (ancient Sybaris); the beach of Capo Vaticano.

charming beaches is that of Torre Ruffa, where Donna Canfora, kidnapped by Saracens, threw herself into the sea crying: “The women of this land prefer death to dishonour!” To honour her sacrifice, the sea changes colour every hour to recall the shades of the veil the woman wore while the echo of the breaking waves would be nothing but the tormenting lament with which Donna Canfora greets her beloved land every night.

Last but not least, there is Sibari, a legendary Greek colony which was renowned for the luxurious and dissolute ways of its inhabitants. All that remains of its splendour are the fantastic tales of an inaccessible and dissipated lifestyle, as well as a few ruins of the old city: the remains of houses in the area known as Parco del Cavallo and a sanctuary dedicated to Athena close to the station, where the Archaeological Museum of the area of Sibari also stands. And this account could go on to include many more locations, because every corner of Calabria conceals an extraordinary myth.

His majesty the hot chilli pepper The unchallenged king of Calabria’s cuisine is the hot chilli pepper. Belonging to the same family as the sweet pepper (Capsicum – Solanacee), its Latin name derives from the form of the fruit, which recalls a “capsule”, or box, safeguarding the seeds. Some believe that its name comes from the Greek word kapto, meaning to bite, an obvious allusion to the piquant taste it leaves on the tongue when eaten. In actual fact, it can be eaten in all sorts of ways, and this is particularly true in Calabria: cooked or raw, it finds its way into any type of sauce, meat or salami specialities, such as the famous ‘nduja (a salami mixture whose bright red-orange colour depends on the great quantity of hot pepper it contains) or spianata (a type of hard sausage meat of the same bright colour).

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Reggio Calabria

The city that was built twice Province: Reggio Calabria Altitude: 31 m asl Inhabitants: 186,503 Tourist information: Tourist Bureau Via Fata Morgana, 13 Tel. +39 0965 324822 http://turismo.reggiocal.it

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The Riace Bronze Warriors are the indisputable symbol of this city: the two Greek statues were accidentally discovered on 16 August 1972 in the water of Riace Marina, at approximately 300 metres from the coast at a depth of about 8 metres, together with fragments of an ancient vessel dating back to the Roman-Byzantine age; having undergone various restorative operations, they are housed temporarily at Palazzo Campanella, the Regional administrative headquarters, where they have been transferred because of renovation work in course at the National Museum of Magna Graecia in Reggio Calabria, which is their permanent exhibition seat.

This museum, which boasts exhibits such as the famous Philosopher’s Head and the Dioscuri group of statues, is just one of many reasons for visiting Reggio Calabria. Another is the impressive and majestic Aragonese Castle, probably erected in the VI century on a pre-existing fortification, whose history reflects that of this city: when in 1039, Reggio fell under the dominion of the Normans, led by Robert Guiscard, the castle was extended to include a donjon, the fortress tower leaning against the walls which housed the troops entrusted with the city’s defence; the rest of the building, however, dates back to the Suevian period: an impressive construction with a square layout and four square-shaped angular towers. It was restored several times during the Aragonese and Angevin wars, in a style that earned it the attribute of “Aragonese”, with the addition of a ravelin, until the eighteenth century when Charles III of Bourbon ordered its conversion into barracks. The history of the castle goes hand in hand with that of the city, its various dominions and its development.

However, two catastrophic events have led Reggio to being almost totally rebuilt: the 1783 earthquake and the catastrophic quake of Messina and Reggio, which razed the city to the ground in 1908 and destroyed the coastal areas with a terrible ti-

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This page: two views of the seafront of Reggio Calabria overlooking the Straits of Messina.

dal wave. Consequently, the extremely elongated Real Palazzina (Royal Palace) was rebuilt with its endless series of elegant Napoleonic buildings looking onto the seafront, together with the impressive St. George’s Palace (the town hall), the elegant Villa Genoese-Zerbi which is the most prestigious example of seventeenth century Baroque in this city, many churches and basilicas, including the lavishly decorated Baroque Cathedral (the largest religious construction in the region), the most ancient Byzantine basilica of the Catholic church of eastern rite, the monumental fountains on the seafront and a great number of impressive public and private buildings. Gabriele D’Annunzio described the town’s seafront as “the finest kilometre in Italy”: it is actually much longer than one kilometre, since it occupies the coastal area comprised between the port and the Maritime Fort and is often referred to as “via Marina”. Here the numerous Art Nouveau buildings contribute to the elegance of this promenade, embellished by stretches of Greek city walls and a Roman spa complex, as well as monumental fountains and memorials. If you stand right here and look towards Sicily, you might just experience the mirage of the Morgana Fairy.

The sea beloved by the gods Above from left to right: the face of one of the Riace Bronze Warriors; a bay in the marine nature reserve of Capo Rizzuto. Below: the beach of Tropea.

The coasts of Calabria have fascinating names, associated with their distinctive vegetation or the history that has passed through and transformed them in the course of time. In this respect a particularly significant name is the Costa degli Dei (Coast of the Gods) or “Costa Bella” around Vibo Valentia. Beautiful, without a doubt, with its fascinating views, the little white coves that may only be reached by boat or on foot, the Aeolian Islands and the volcanic island of Stromboli, all of which are just a short distance away. “Of the gods” because, with its transparent water and luscious seabeds, it evokes dreamlike landscapes and paradisiacal dives. Certainly not to be missed is Tropea, one of the most popular locations in Calabria for national and international tourists, offering as many as twelve churches and a blue grotto, a summer bluefish festival and plaited red onions hanging from its windows (the red onion of Tropea, of unmistakable sweetness, has been awarded with a quality trademark). The charming beaches and crystal clear sea, whose depths teem with fish, make Capo Vaticano another mandatory stop, along with the fascinating inland area offering typical specialities such as the“Nduja di Spilinga”and“Pecorino del Poro”. Then comes Pizzo Calabro, a seaside resort and fishing port perched high above the sea which owes its fame to the Castle of Joachim Murat, the husband of Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister, who was tricked into coming to Calabria and shot without a blindfold.

The home-made ice-creams of Pizzo are well known in the area.

And how can you miss a visit to Parghelia, with its Pizzuta, so called because of the granitic pinnacles emerging from the sea, or Zambrone, with beaches that recall those of the Tropics and the Scoglio della Galea (Galea Rock), abounding in cavities and hollows inhabited by marine fauna of all types.

Looking onto the Ionian sea, the Costa dei Saraceni (Saracens’ Coast) presents a completely different scenario with its wild landscape and eventful history. It extends between Cariati and the hills of the Marquisate of Crotone, with a variegated morphology of alternating wide and narrow gulfs. There are some extremely vast areas close to the shore, which present lush Mediterranean vegetation and pinewoods, where new tourist accommodation facilities of considerable dimensions and elevated standards have found an ideal setting without modifying the general aspect of the area. The entire zone is comprised in the Marine Reserve of Capo Rizzuto, 40 hectares of Mediterrane-

an maquis with a strictly regulated system to safeguard the sea depths and the numerous species living there. Moreover, the entire coast is a haven of Greek, medieval and Byzantine archaeological remains. For instance, Cirò Marina’s origins, the ancient town of Krimisa, are Greek. Now it is one of the main seaside resorts on the Ionian coast of Calabria.

The bathing area of the Municipality of Crotone extends to the south of the port as far as the headland of Capo Colonna, an archaeological site of great interest, symbolized by the solitary column rising up over the sea and which gives its name to the promontory. Capo Colonna, Capo Cimiti, Capo Rizzuto and Punta Le Castella are the most popular tourist spots on the Saracens’ Coast.

Now it is up to you to explore these coasts steeped in history, or others that take the names of Riviera dei Cedri (Riviera of citron trees) and Costa Viola (Violet Coast), on the Tyrrhenian coast, and Riviera degli Aranci (Riviera of Oranges), Costa degli Aranci (Coast of Oranges) and Costa dei Gelsomini (Jasmine Coast), on the Ionian coast. Coastlines in which sea, beaches and vegetation combine to create a truly divine landscape.

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Sicilia

The largest island in the

Mediterranean, the cradle of history,

which holds some of the best preserved archaeological sites in the world and six UNESCO World Heritage sites. A destination for lovers of the sea and culture, Sicily, with the archipelago of small islands that flank it, is a world to discover. The ancient Trinacria, land of Greek colonization, of Roman Empire, through the Islamic and Norman eras and the Angevin, Aragonese and Bourbon rules, shows all these traces in its beautiful scenery: because Sicily is a land of culture, but it is also a land of sun, beaches, sea, volcanoes and environments that always leave you speechless.

The island on which the sun shines

SICILY

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Opposite page: the Greek theatre of Taormina. Above: aerial view of Stromboli.

On the right: view of Acireale. Below: Stacks of Acitrezza at dawn.

Where volcanoes reign You have to go to Sicily to see most of the active Italian volcanoes, the highest of which is Mount Etna with its 3330 m.

In addition to the volcano that dominates Catania, there’s a whole arc of volcanic islands still in full activity: these are the Aeolian Islands, also known as “Lipari”, places not only for tourism, but also of great geological interest.

Lipari, the largest of the archipelago, is the emerged portion of a large volcanic structure with a height of approximately 1500 m that starts at just under 1000 m below sea level. The oldest rocks of the island are more than 200,000 years old and between them open fumaroles and hot springs with water temperatures up to 90 ° C, a tangible sign of the vitality which still stands below them. Just by walking along the paths of the island you can see many outcrops that are nothing more than the solidification of the eruptive material: transparent deposits, with alternating light and dark bands, often with glassy obsidian lava.

Instead, it is Vulcano that is the island with the most suggestive name. The spur is composed of several volcanic systems: in addition to the upper crater with fumaroles that are still active, at the ends of the island there are platforms like Vulcanello, whose lava has a different composition from that of Vulcano due to the different depths of the magma. The visitors who climb (there are guided tours, which are fully safe) to the crater can enjoy a breathtaking view across the area of the fumaroles which gives you a good understanding of how

the ancients could believe, without scientific explanation, that in the bowels of the earth there was a forge for metalworking, presided over by the god Hephaestus or Vulcan, who had an short-temper. On the summit of Vulcano, tourists can admire the marvellous Realgar crystals (red, with copper and arsenic), white crystals of boron and the sulphur yellow ones. Then there is the wonderful Stromboli, the last to emerge among the Aeolian Islands (preceded by Strombolicchio, a small volcano which is now only a rock in the sea), which is active, more or less continuously, for at least 2000 years. An entirely specific activity, which is called “Strombolian” and which consists of almost continuous explosions with little waste being launched from the eruptive vents: This is a unique show, with the five mouths always active, and can be observed on walking excursions day and night. Finally in Salina, from the small fishing port of Rinella, located between twin volcanos, you can admire the Monte Fossa delle Felci, the largest volcano which has been inactive for more than 13,000 years, the only one with a forest. The other islands of the Aeolian archipelago - Alicudi, Filicudi, Panarea and Basiluzzo - also have volcanic origins: this can be seen from the dark colour of the rocks overlooking the sea, with a few coves accessible only by boat. An uncontaminated spectacle.

Returning to the main island, and dominating the whole of Sicily is Mount Etna, a volcanic structure that is grandiose in size and in history, when you consider that its eruptive activity began 500,000 years ago with the first submarine eruptions.

The coasts of Catania are a testimony of this activity: they are characterized by the famous pillow lavas, so called because of the concentric layers rounded by water and glazed, then welded together to form the famous lava floors such as the port of Aci Castello, mentioned by Verga’s I Malavoglia. From about 100,000 years ago to now, the eruptive activity has moved: first along the Ionian coast (with the occasional fissure eruption up to the coast in the area called “delle Gole dell’Alcantara”), today on the volcano called Ellittico, which constitutes the main structure of Mount Etna. The ability to climb this active giant is definitely a unique opportunity that close up shows the beauty of untamed nature.

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Agrigento The “most beautiful city of mortals” To say “Agrigento” is to say “Valley of the Temples”: here are the remains of the ancient Akragas which was founded in the sixth century BC by colonists from Gela and which, in just one hundred years, became, in the words of the poet Pindar, “the most beautiful city of mortals”. Destroyed by the Carthaginians, refounded and fallen with the Byzantines, the ancient city was abandoned in the ninth century after the Arab conquest, when on the hill Gergent was born. Passing to the Normans, the city began to grow until the eighteenth century, with embellishments of every style and era. But the valley remained there, between meadows and almond trees in flower, such as can be found today.

The temple of Juno Lacinia certainly lent itself, thanks to its spectacular location on a cliff at the top of the hill, to celebrate the cult of the goddess of fertility. There are fascinating traces of fire, still visible on the walls of the cell, recalling the Carthaginian destruction in 406 BC. Next to the temple, tourists can admire the altar for the sacrifices and the road rutted by the wheels of the wagons. The famous Telamoni, giant statues of human form, instead populate the temple of Olympian Zeus, built as a token of thanks during the first victory in 480 BC of the people of Agrigento against the Carthaginians. As can be seen, it would not be enough to protect the city from destruction. In the vicinity of the Porta Aurea, to commemorate the fallen of the Second Punic War, the tomb of Theron was built, an imposing pyramidshaped monument made from tufa stone.

The temple of Heracles is the oldest of them all and housed the bronze statue of Heracles (or Hercules). Destroyed by an earthquake, today there are only eight columns. Also little remains of the imposing temple of Vulcan; it was certainly built to replace a small archaic temple found under the foundation.

Province: Agrigento Altitude: 230 m asl Inhabitants: 59,130 Tourist information: Azienda Autonoma Provinciale per l’Incremento Turistico viale Della Vittoria, 255 Tel. +39 0922 401352 www.lavalledeitempli.eu

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A symbol of the city of Agrigento today is the temple of Castor and Pollux, the Dioscuri: today four beautiful columns can be seen. The best preserved temple is undoubtedly the temple of Concordia, located on the Via Sacra, which takes its name from a Latin inscription found nearby.

Agrigento, of course, is not just the Valley of the Temples.

It is in fact one of the most beautiful cities in Sicily, with a historic centre that recalls the vicissitudes experienced by the various rulers.

There are four main churches that embellish the streets and squares: inside the Santo Spirito Abbey, a complex that was built in 1260 and consists of the church and the adjacent Cistercian monastery, visitors can admire an explosion of eighteenth-century stucco on the walls and a magnificent wooden

These pages, clockwise from the left: the Cathedral; a moment during the flowering almond tree; the Temple of Castor and Pollux in the Valley of the Temples; the Temple of Concord.

caisson ceiling dated 1758, on which the coat of arms of the Chiaramonte family is painted, who financed its construction.

The monastery, also known as “the Great Abbey” has precious frescoes and a great quadrangular cloister with a number of Gothic portals.

The church of Santa Maria dei Greci, in the oldest district of the city, was built in the twelfth century on the base of a Doric temple from the fifth century BC that some believe to be that of Athena, on the acropolis of the ancient Akragas, accessible from the left aisle. The San Gerlando Cathedral, from the eleventh century, in Norman-Gothic style, remodelled until the seventeenth century, with its unfinished tower from the fifteenth century, is a synthesis of the city’s historical stages: the

remarkable and richly painted wooden ceiling in the centre of which the two-headed eagle of Carlo V is represented. Of great importance is the Treasury of the Cathedral, which preserves the Sarcophagus of Phaedra, a third century Roman marble work inspired by the greek style.

Last but not least, the Church of San Lorenzo, also called “the church of Purgatory”: the elegant baroque prospect leads, inside, to eight female statues of Giuseppe and Giacomo Serpotta, representing the Virtues. Next to the church is the main entrance to the ancient tombs, a network of underground aqueducts from the fifth century BC that supplied Akragas, designed by the architect Feace and known throughout Magna Graecia.

Sweet Sicily The Almond from Noto, which has received the recognition of the Slow Food organisation, is undoubtedly one of the “magic” ingredients of Sicilian cooking, especially sweets. The three varieties of “cultivar” almonds are the Romana, the Fascionello and the Pizzuta d’Avola and grow in the Val di Noto, in the province of Syracuse. With almond flour and sugar they produce the famous Martorana Fruit, originally from Palermo, also known as “royal paste”, “almond paste” or “marzipan”.

The fruit shape is given through the use of plaster moulds, while the colour is obtained from food pigments.

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Corners of paradise in the blue Sicily and its islands make up a true work of art born from the synergy between the action of nature, myth and the work of man. But of course the natural setting is the one that most unites these islands in a corner of paradise.

The small Egadi archipelago, in the sea off Trapani and Marsala, consists of three larger islands (Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo) and the small island of Formica. Not far from the Sicilian coast (just 20 minutes by hydrofoil), they offer visitors a trip based on simplicity, serenity and the peace of the Trapani countryside: there are hotels, bed and breakfasts and apartments, as well as quiet camping.

The islands are very different from each other: Favignana can be defined as “for all the family”, while Levanzo has a “minimalist” charm and is famous for the Grotta del Genovese, with graffiti more than 10,000 years old; Finally, Marettimo is recommended for tourists who love trekking and enjoying nature surrounded by the sea.

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The Aeolian archipelago, the “volcanic” charm, provides a good choice for lovers of nautical tourism: Lipari has three ports, one for small boats (Marina Corta), one for ferries and hydrofoils (Marina Lunga) and one for fishing boats (Pignataro). The Aeolian Islands are called “the sisters of Hawaii” for their beauty and since Neolithic times were colonized to exploit the obsidian, a volcanic glass conformation perfect for making arrowheads and cutting tools.

Still in the area of sea that is part of Trapani, Pantelleria is famous for the opportunity to spend a relaxing holiday in the fresh “dammusi”, natural caves which have been expanded to obtain living spaces: created in the tenth century, they have very thick walls, roof dome and it is the thickness of the wall that isolates the inside of the dwelling in order to self-regulate the temperature.

Pantelleria, so close to the coast of Sicily but also that of Africa (only 37 km away), offers exceptional natural sites, such as the

Montagna Grande and the volcan Monte Gibele (whose past eruptions date back 9000 years), and incredible archaeological sites, such as the abandoned village of Mueggen, the Bagno Asciutto Grotto, used in ancient times as a sauna, and the Phoenician catacombs of Monastero. Or the Sesi, large tombs built with huge blocks of lava stone, beside the ruins of an ancient prehistoric coastal village.

Regarding volcanic sights there are the fascinating “favare”, emissions of water vapour, and the “stufe” (stove), natural caves with steam at high temperatures. Conversely, in the Grotta del Freddo (Cold Grotto) the escape of cold air is assisted. There are, of course, hot springs, such as those at Specchio di Venere Lake (Mirror of Venus), with saline mineral waters. Excursions on horseback or by boat are on the agenda to allow tourists to discover unusual corners, otherwise unreachable.

Likewise very close to Africa, the Pelagie consist of Lampedusa, Linosa and Lampione, three small black islands also of volcanic origin. Lampedusa is the favourite destination of those who conceive the beach holiday as a total experience: a barren limestone plateau washed with crystal clear waters to form a basic landscape, no frills, with tropical fauna (it is not difficult, on the seabed, to find parrotfish and triggerfish).

Ustica, finally, is the most pristine of all the islands. Picturesque and colourful due to the murals on the houses of the fishermen, it is located just over 60 km from the coast of Palermo and is a very small emerged portion of a gigantic underwater volcanic complex.

The real attraction of the island is its nature reserve with a rich wildlife population just a few metres deep. Well worth a visit is the Punta Spalmatore aquarium and the permanent naturalistic exhibition in Torre Spalmatore.

The beautiful seabed of the island can be admired even by those who do not dive thanks to a boat with large windows on the bottom that allows you to explore the blue paradise populated with bass, bream, sea bream and grouper. Ustica is therefore nature in a free state, but there is also archaeology: the notable village of Faraglioni, fortified, with the remains of more than two hundred houses. Archaeologists have also uncovered a large Roman necropolis.

Opposite page: Roman ruins on the island of Lampedusa; below, Capo Milazzese on the island of Panarea. This page, clockwise from the left: the rock of Strombolicchio; the Elephant Arch on the island of Pantelleria; the small harbour of Levanzo.

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Sardegna

Almost 2000 kilometres of coastline, long beaches, coves, reefs and tourist marinas: the Sardinian landscape changes in form and colour with every kilometre. And likewise, a Sardinian holiday may vary from day to day: sunshine and sea, relaxation and sport, scuba diving and trekking, leisure boating and horse riding, cities and archaeological sites. The seabeds of the island and its many minor islets are a diver’s paradise; the strong frequent winds allow for surfing, windsurfing, kite surfing and sailing; the villages of the inland area are ideal for cultural visits and the discovery of fine food and wine specialities; folklore is a feature of every corner of this region and the mountainous areas lend themselves to trekking, free climbing, caving and pot-holing activities, golf, mountain cycling and horse riding. The choice is yours!

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Mediterranean princess

SARDINIA

The charm of a unique history Nuraghi and giant stone masses are its symbol: Sardinia, with its blue sea and uncontaminated inland areas, is deeply rooted in ancient history and has a marked cultural identity, which is typical of an insular territory. A unique example is certainly represented by the “Giants” of Mount Prama, huge statues sculpted in a way which, to all effects and purposes, recall the Greek Kouroi, but with which there are no chronological or cultural ties: a sign of how the Sardinian culture is one of a kind and has no comparison with anything else in the Mediterranean basin. The “Giants”, exhibited at the Li Punti Restoration Centre (Sassari), were found in the area of Cabras, on the slopes of Mount Prama, close to an ancient necropolis dominated by a nuraghe. And now we come to the other great protagonists of the island: the nuraghi, groups of megalithic edifices of a truncated conical shape, dating back to the socalled “nuragic” civilization which existed in the II millennium B.C. solely and exclusively in Sardinia. Apparently there are still about seven thousand of these constructions still standing throughout the Island, even though it is thought that there were originally many more, built very close to each other, as in the Nuraghi Valley complex, the area of Logudoro Meilogu, where there are about thirty nuraghi and about ten giants’ tombs, and where the so-called domus de janas, “fairy houses”, are preserved, hypogean burial chambers excavated in the rocks and dating back to the Neolithic age.

In its eventful past, Sardinia has witnessed the passing of the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who gave way to the Romans after the first Punic War. Traces of this past may be admired in the extraordinary archaeological site of Nora, in Pula: the ancient city is located on a headland separated from the mainland by an isthmus that extends at two points, Sa Punta and Su Coloru to the west, Punta del Coltellazzo to the east, facing the little island of the same name.

And now that we have described “archaeological Sardinia” a mention is due to its “literature”: Sardinia has actually been the birthplace of a great number of writers, who have described its colours,

its wild primitive atmosphere and life on the island as it really is. A recommended literary itinerary has to include the places described in the pages of Doves and Sparrow Hawks and Canes swinging in the Wind, masterpieces by Grazia Deledda, the most famous of Sardinian writers who won a Nobel in 1926: the itinerary starts in Orune, «It is an old and closed village, where the usages, the habits, the customs, the most distant popular traditions persist, perhaps more than in any other place, together with the intelligence and the value of a life which is just as energetic as it is limited, full of expressive capacity, individual power and solitude………», to say it with the words of Carlo Levi, but above all a village that is worth visiting for its double attraction of the early twentieth century Murgia building and the prehistoric menhir and dolmen of Isthiti; then we move on to Galtellì, where it is possible to visit the Sardinian writer’s home in one of the most characteristic and best preserved old town centres in Sardinia, with its St. Peter’s cathedral and the ancient landowner’s house Domo de Marras, now an Ethnographic Museum, which has reconstructed typical scenes depicting the everyday lives of agricultural workers and herdsmen.

Aspects of Sardinia, therefore, that go well beyond that of its seaside attractions.

Opposite page: view of Maddalena from the island of Caprera.

Above from left to right: the interior of a nuraghe (prehistoric round tower); windsurfing off Cagliari; vegetation on Mount Albo. Below: sunset at Castelsardo.

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An island of timeless traditions A holiday in Sardinia is certainly about plunging into the blue sea and enjoying the peace and quiet of uncontaminated nature.

But it is also a journey packed with surprising experiences and charm, a mysterious exploration into the spirit of a proud, creative and imaginative population.

Finding out about old traditional customs is always an interesting experience: no other region in Italy can claim to having so many, and which are so different from one place to another.

Each little community defends them proudly, to highlight the cultural identity of each village. Clothing, in the past, used to represent different occasions in life: so there are at least three different ways of dressing – everyday, special occasions and mourning dress – for all of the 370 municipalities on the island!

Only elderly people still wear these costumes regularly, especially in the villages of Desulo, Tonara and Orgosolo, in the area of Nuoro, or in Busachi, close to Oristano, or in Cagliari on the feast day of Saint Ephisius and in Sassari during the traditional Cavalcade: a picturesque event offering spectators the experience of a return to the past.

It is interesting to try to understand the translation of some of

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the various garments used: women’s costumes are made up of a headdress, a camisa (blouse), the palas or cossu (bodice), a corittu (jacket), the munedda (skirt) and the pannellu (apron); men on the other hand wear cartzones (trousers), a ragas (a short black skirt gathered in at the waist), the gabbanu (coat) and the mastrucca (a sleeveless sheepskin jacket that is commonly used by herdsmen).

Whoever wishes to go more deeply into these particular aspects, to find out about the lives of the herdsmen of Barbagia, or listen to and understand the typical folk songs, to learn more about the origins of purceddu (suckling pig), casu marzu (typical cheese with worms) and pane carasau (a crisp unleavened bread), cannot miss out on a visit to one of the museums created to accompany visitors on their journey into this unique cultural environment: in Cagliari, for example, it is possible to visit the Centre of Peasant Culture “Villa Muscas”, a museum housing a collection of tools, agricultural machinery, typical artefacts of Sardinian rural communities, as well as boasting a remarkable collection of wines, with over 800 bottles of Sardinian production.

Then, at the Citadel of Museums, also in the regional capital,

the Cocco Ethnographical Collection is exhibited, with fabrics woven on a horizontal loom, jewellery (the Sardinian wedding rings engraved in gold or silver with french wire, microspheres and tiny fretworked leaves) and furniture (especially wooden chests, called kascia or arka if they are large, and kascitta or kascioneddu if small).

Those who prefer to “experience traditions” directly, rather than visit museums, cannot possibly miss the numerous folk festivals animating the summer days, evenings and nights: in June Alghero comes to life with the rites of Fire, Water and Prediction to celebrate the feast of Saint John the Baptist; the third Sunday in July in Villasimius offers an impacting experience with its Feast of Our Lady of Castaways, with a procession of boats paying homage to the Virgin’s statue on the sea bottom. July ends in Gavoi with the lively traditional feast of Our Lady of Sa Itria, where it is possible to take part in horse racing events in honour of the Our Lady. Horses are also at the centre of attention on the first Sunday in August during the Fonni Palio, whose contestants not only represent Communes in Sardinia but also those of Italy and elsewhere. On 14th August, the eve of Assumption Day, the Candle Procession takes place in Nulvi, in which giant candles weighing over nine quintals each, are carried through the streets, while in Guasila, on the 15th, the Feast day of the Assumption, the game of s’acchixedda takes place: the village bachelors, all on horseback, have to lasso a heifer. Another interesting event is the Barefoot Race, on the first Sunday of September in Cabras: it is a re-enactment of the barefooted flight to save the Statue of Saint Salvatore who, in times gone by, had fended off invaders.

And the list could go on forever: each village has its traditional costumes, local specialities and folk festivals, all waiting to be discovered, tasted and experienced.

Opposite page: above, a young man wearing traditional costume.

Below, a flock of sheep in Barbagia. This page, clockwise from the left: the boat race of Is Fassonis in Santa Giusta; a girl during the festival of Sant’Efisio in Cagliari; a lane in Galtellì.

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Cagliari, An ancient capital waiting to be discovered With a history stretching back thousands of years, Cagliari also boasted the title of capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia from 1324 to 1720 and from 1798 to 1814. Facing the so-called Gulf of Angels, it extends around the historical city centre (called Castello) and is built on seven different hills which now represent the various city quarters: Castello, Tuvu Mannu, Tuvixeddu, Monte Claro, Monte Urpinu, Colle di Bonaria and Colle di San Michele. The city has developed over a hilly area and a stretch of flat land on which the more recent quarters have developed from the twentieth century onwards. With a wealth of monuments and places of interest, the “old city” is encircled by the Bastion of Saint Rémy, built in the late nineteenth century on the walls and aqueduct of the ancient Caralis, which was later transformed into a botanical garden, with numerous species of plants growing among cisterns, wells and quarries dating back to Roman times and used as air-raid shelters during the second World War. Adopting a chronological approach, our visit of the city starts out from the necropolises of Tuvixeddu (dating back to the Phoenician age) and of St. Paul (Roman) and from the burial tomb known as the Viper’s Grotto, but also takes in the Roman Villa of Tigellius, the Temple of via Malta, the archaeological site of Saint Eulalie and the Fullonica, the tanks used in Roman times for dyeing fabrics.

The plant treasured

by Venus Myrtle liqueur, whether red or white, is a popular drink in Sardinia and Corsica and is made by marinating myrtle berries or a mixture of berries and leaves in alcohol. The red version is prepared by marinating ripe pigmented berries. Its origins are extremely ancient even though the first documents in which it is mentioned date back to the nineteenth century, when families used to make myrtle wine, using a mixture of aqua vitae and water or wine and water as a marinade. Once it has sufficiently marinated, sugar or honey are added to sweeten. Sardinian myrtle liqueur has digestive properties, so it is normally drunk at the end of a meal but many people also enjoy it as an aperitif. Ideally, it should be served ice cold.

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Province: Cagliari Altitude: 23 m asl Inhabitants: 155 887 Tourist information: Ente Sardo Industrie Turistiche via Mameli, 97 - Tel. +39 070 664195 www.visit-cagliari.it

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Opposite page: Cagliari cathedral. Above: the port of Marina Piccola at the foot of the promontory of Sella del Diavolo. Below: a part of the Ramparts of Saint Remy.

If we move on to the Middle Ages, you can not miss to visit the impressive walls with their four towers of the Elephant, the Buttress, Saint Pancras and the Eagle. Dating back to the same period is the Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello, dedicated to the Virgin and to St. Cecilia Virgin and Martyr, built in the Romanic style of Pisa, whose present aspect however reveals the Baroque alterations and the neo-Romanic façade inspired by the Cathedral of Pisa. The Royal Palace (or Viceroy’s Palace), the ancient residence of the King’s deputy, dates back to the Aragonese period. Its fourteenth century features have been completely modified by the restoration work of 1730 executed by the Piedmont engineers De Guibert and De Vincenti: another innovation of those years was the ceremonial staircase leading to the master floor, the official residence of the Savoy royal family and its court, exiled from Turin by Napoleon Bonaparte.

The churches of Saint Restituta and Saint Lucifer are interesting to visit; standing in two different parts of the city, they were both erected during the Middle Ages in areas of particular significance to ancient populations: the first is erected on a vast hypogean chamber which was used as a crypt by the Punic people, Romans and early Christians; the church of Saint Lucifer rises on an ancient paleo-Christian necropolis which had been

frequently explored for relics until a tombstone was found bearing the inscription “Lucif Crus Arcepis” (hence its present name).

The great ferment of the Savoy period is reflected in the construction of the Palazzo dell’Università (university building) commissioned by King Charles Emanuel III to a project by one of his military engineers: the concept consisted in creating a vast cultural hub with the erection of a university building, seminar and theatre (only the first two were built). In the hall of the Rector’s office, visitors can stop and admire the four symbolic bronze statues, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, Medicine and Science and Technology (the latter is a work by Francesco Messina).

On the outskirts of the city, it is well worth paying a visit to the Cagliari salt-pans, located close to the Beach of the Poetto (an area administrated by the Municipality of Cagliari and that of Quartu Sant’Elena), and now included in the Regional Park of the Molentargius which is famous for its flamingos. Today, the salt city of the early twentieth century is considered to be a site of industrial archaeology and comprises executive buildings, workers’ dwellings, a Church, a theatre, along with the laboratories and workshops where the salt used to be extracted and processed.

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Along the coasts of a crystal-clear sea There are numerous possible itineraries to follow if you wish to enjoy the endless and stupendous coastline of Sardinia.

You may decide to start out from Alghero, in the north-west of the island, and proceed towards the protected marine area of the Parco di Porto Conte, with Punta del Giglio and Capo Caccia. Here the karst rock headlands, the extremities of a faunal oasis populated by Giara ponies, open out into uncontaminated marine grottos such as the Green Grotto and the Grotto of Neptune. Take the flight of steps providing access to the latter, and follow a trail of densely packed stalactites and stalagmites leading to a marine lake surrounded by an extraordinary play of light. Just a short distance away from Capo Caccia, the nuraghi site of Palmavera makes you forget for a few moments how close the sea is.

Completely different atmospheres and landscapes can be discovered along the north-east coast by departing from Olbia, a strategic location for Sardinian tourism thanks to its airport. The first mandatory stopover is that of Porto Cervo, a renowned holiday resort that takes its name from the rather irregular morphology of the location, which extends along the coasts of a natural harbour whose outline recalls that of a deer’s horns. The streets, steps and porticos all converge in the little

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central square directly connected with the old port with its numerous designer fashion boutiques. The sight of luxury yachts and leisure boats berthed in the port is one of the attractions of this resort. We then move on to Palau, the customary departure point for the archipelago of La Maddalena, where you cannot help admiring the marvellous beaches that alternate with granitic rocks to create a truly breathtaking landscape.

Close to the centre of Palau, you will encounter Capo d’Orso, a granitic hill rising up 122 metres, whose form, modelled by the

natural elements, recalls the figure of a majestic bear. Around Palau there are lots of nuraghi sites and “giants’ tombs”. Another not-to-be-missed location is that of Santa Teresa di Gallura, whose layout was designed by Victor Emanuel I of Savoy in 1808. Today it is one of the most spectacular seaside resorts, thanks to its position facing the rocks on a particularly indented stretch of coast.

If we decide to visit the south of the island, from Cagliari it is possible to explore the sea bottom of the Golfo degli Angeli, to admire the ecosystem or “hunt” for wrecks. From Cagliari, we then move on to Santa Margherita di Pula, with its little tourist marina of Cala Verde, the rocky stacks of Capo Spartivento, the Secca del Candeliere (meaning candlestick shallows) with the three needles inspiring its name and a sandy seabed at a depth of 40 metres inhabited by various forms of life and countless archaeological remains left by ancient shipwrecks. Taking a boat to the archipelago of the Sulcis, visitors can see the marvellous St. Peter’s island and the little islet of Corno, under the lighthouse of Capo Sandalo. Glass bottom boats enable you to enjoy the sight of coral reefs carpeting the so-called Discesa delle Tacche Bianche (white-spotted descent) at just 17 metres depth.

Back north, one of the most popular destinations for a boating holiday is La Maddalena: an archipelago with seven major islands of which only three are inhabited. The archipelago is also famous for having been the last home of the Hero of Two Worlds, Giuseppe Garibaldi, who built his famous White House on Caprera, now a house museum and his burial place, open to the public. The town of Maddalena, on the other hand, looks onto the Harbour of Cala Gavetta and hosts the Nino Lamboglia Museum, dedicated to undersea archaeology (Lamboglia studied and classified all the different types and shapes of amphorae, and his name still lives on in the amphora classification code). Apart from these two islands, the archipelago is also comprised of Santa Maria (with a small inhabited area), Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and other minor islets.

Their uncontaminated nature makes them absolutely fascinating, with their preponderance of colours and scents typical of the Mediterranean maquis in an explosion of wild vegetation that regenerates body and soul.

Opposite page: four picturesque images of the Sardinian coast.

This page, clockwise from the left: the interior of a cave; sand dunes in Porto Pino; the Roccia dell’Orso in Palau; Cala Luna in the Bay of Orosei.

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Foto: Bams Photo

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Foto: Giovanna Gatti

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