PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE
MAY 19-25, 2021
FOOD & WINE EDITION
THE BEST OF VICTORIA W HERE & W H AT TO E AT & DRINK
ROAD TRIP
TAKE A BITE OUT OF OUR STATE
TASTY ESCAPE UNMISSABLE DESTINATION
M O O N E E VA L L E Y
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C o mp i l e d b y
H AI L E Y C O U L E S
The editor’s desk
KATE SHANASY
DIEGO RAMIREZ
Whatever you do, please don’t eat the pages of this week’s edition, though I could understand if you wanted to. It’s been a truly exciting few weeks at Domain Review, bringing this array of delicious features your way in our Victorian food and wine edition. And it’s fantastic to be able to bring to you so many highlights of the state’s dining and drinking scene, given the challenges of the past 15 months. We’d encourage you to get back out there, where and when possible, to support the truly amazing restaurants, cafes, bars, breweries and wineries we have across Victoria. Cheers! ●
YOUNG GUNS \ Maha Bar is welcoming four top young
FESTIVAL FUN \ 80 Collins is offering its first event
chefs into their kitchen from May 18. Each Tuesday the
series in collaboration with the MFWF. There are two
takeovers will showcase wonderful Middle Eastern
options, Signature Sip & Graze on June 2 or Lunch
fare. ● mahabar.com.au
Illuminated on June 5. ● 80collins.com.au
GOING PLACES Things to do & see in Melbourne
OUR COVER \ Rosheen Kaul, head chef at Brunswick East restaurant Etta. Photographed by Kristoffer Paulsen
MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Jemimah Clegg Editorial producer \ Hailey Coules Group picture editor \ Vashti Newcomb Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Graphic designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial director \ Adrian Lowe National managing editor \ Alice Stolz Group director, Consumer \ Jason Chuck Chief executive officer Domain Group \ Jason Pellegrino
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Is your mag missing? Distribution \ 1800 032 472 distribution@domainreview.com.au
REVIEW Domain Review is published by Domain Holdings Australia Limited and is printed by Elephant Group (Aust) Pty Ltd, 24c Victoria Street Windsor VIC 3181. All material is copyright.
PETER TARASIUK
ray.vanv@domain.com.au
SIMON SHIFF
Ray van Veenendaal \ 0438 279 870
M O O N E E VA L L E Y
Real estate sales director \
ITALY AT HOME \ A new fresh pasta venture is set to
FAMILY FEAST \ The team behind Daughter in Law,
open in late May in Fairfield. You can order online or pop
Mrs Singh, Mr Brownie and Horn Please are hosting a
into their shopfront, which will also have a restaurant
fundraising dinner at all their locations on May 19, with
launch later this year. ● pastapoetry.com.au
all takings going towards medical supplies for India. ●
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TRAVEL
Summer in Gippsland
State of discovery When it comes to holidays focused on quality culinary experiences, there’s no place like home. Wo r d s
PE T E R BA R R E T T
M
ost Victorians know we have some of the best eating and drinking experiences in Australia – and now the closure of international borders and uncertainty around state-based lockdowns means locals are more interested than ever in holidaying on their home turf. More than 2.7 million Victorians accessed visitvictoria.com between November 2020 and last month, up 75 per cent on the same time last year, with a significant increase in Victorians booking ahead. So, it’s time to reacquaint ourselves with our state’s best food and wine regions. Here are some top picks, including the best time to visit.
Summer means seafood, and Melbourne chef Scott Pickett (Estelle, Matilda, Longrain and Chancery Lane) is a big fan of the locally caught offerings of Lakes Entrance in Gippsland. “We get great flathead, and the snapper has been amazing,” he says. “We also get great calamari, too.” But no need to wet your own line, there are some top seafood restaurants here, such as Soda Fish in Lakes Entrance and, in nearby Paynesville, Sardine, where accomplished chef Mark Briggs serves up fresh, locally caught delights. Closer to home, just south of Warragul, chef Trevor Perkins is renowned for his seasonal produce and nose-to-tail approach at Hogget Kitchen. But if your summer adventure takes you further afield to Mallacoota, don’t leave without trying a dumpling from Lucy’s.
Autumn in the Otways
Spring in the High Country
There’s nothing better than cosying up with a glass of conviviality to an open fire when it’s cold and wet. With the recent flood of Melburnians to this part of Victoria, the food and wine offerings in this neck of the woods have become more sophisticated. From iconic favourites such as the Lake House in Daylesford and Annie Smithers’ local and seasonal French farmhouse offerings at du Fermier to gastropub lunches by a crackling fire at The Plough in Trentham, this region is bursting with food and wine talent. We also recommend making a beeline for Kyneton.
When temperatures start shivering out of single digits it’s time to hightail it to the High Country. Nothing says spring like sparkling prosecco and King Valley is where you’ll find it. Known as the Prosecco Road, this region is bristling with quality family wineries such as Pizzini, Dal Zotto and Chrismont, where you can take a rustic lunch in the striking dining room. But spring is changeable so, depending on the weather, warm yourself with fortified wines in Rutherglen or cool down with thirst-quenching ales from Bridge Road Brewers in Beechworth or Bright Brewery.
ROBERT BLACKBURN
Winter in Daylesford & the Macedon Ranges
Dining room at Du Fermier, in Trentham.
F I N E D I N I N G AT B R A E
SCOTT WILLIAMS
C H R I S M O N T WI N E RY, PR O S E C C O R OA D
As temperatures begin to drop you’ll find mountain bikers hooning around the dirt tracks of Forrest in Victoria’s gorgeous Otway Ranges. The stable weather may also be perfect for rainforest walks or beachside ramblings along the nearby Great Ocean Road, but where to revive your exhausted bones after all that exercise? Fortunately, this region is experiencing a food and wine awakening. From small-scale, quality ales at Forrest Brewing to top-shelf dining and accommodation at Brae Restaurant in Birregurra and buzzy (now permanent) pop-ups by Movida and Coda restaurants in Lorne, there is much on offer. Don’t leave without trying a Salt Brewing Co. beer from the Aireys Pub and fish and chips from Anglesea’s Fish By Moonlight. ●
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Turning up the heat COVER STORY
Time for a fresh approach: Women are smashing the boys’ club in Melbourne’s hospitality industry.
W
hen you order the bone-in pork belly rib at Etta in Brunswick East, the meat is charred over smouldering embers to caramelise the crust. It’s finished in the oven and the fat blisters into crackling – all grunt and f lavour. Tiny turnips and an oyster emulsion daub add a feminine touch, but this is a masculine dish, cooked by 28-year-old head chef Rosheen Kaul. Kaul joined Etta in November 2020, having cooked at Lee Ho Fook and now-closed restaurants Ezard and Dinner by Heston. Employed by owner Hannah Green, she puts her recent role down to her determination to be treated equally in kitchens throughout her career. “To get anywhere in a kitchen, especially as a woman, you always feel the need to really prove yourself,” she says. “You don’t ever want to be like, ‘I’m getting this because I’m a girl.’ I’m not softer than you. I can lift stuff. I can cook on fire.” She recalls one job where women were destined for the pastry section and sous chefs “slapped her on the arse” as she walked past, but that was an exception. “People can’t really hide any more. Because of the time we’re in and because of how much this conversation happens, people are generally decent now and highly aware of how their behaviour can be construed,” she says. Kaul’s advice to young women cooking their way to the top is the same she’d give to anybody: “Don’t rush. Make your foundation as rock-solid as you can so that nobody can question you. If you arm yourself with all the skills and knowledge that you can, then in an ideal world, it shouldn’t matter who you are.”
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ROSHEEN KAUL Head chef at Etta
Wo r d s
KATIE McCORMACK
GAVIN GREEN
Co-owner of Congress, Future Future & Lagotto restaurants Katie McCormack is thrilled that there are increasingly more female role models in hospitality. She remembers dining regularly at Circa in St Kilda, where she aspired to be in a similar spot to then-front-of-house manager Madeleine Morgan (now at Pt Leo Estate). “She was an anomaly in that position. When I used to dine out when I was first getting into restaurants, there were very few women serving us, and definitely not in managerial positions and definitely no sommeliers,” says McCormack. “It’s really changing.” About 70 per cent of McCormack’s staff are female. She acknowledges that while it might be related to the interview process or how she connects with people, she believes that women bring a particular warmth and openness to a space. “You’re going to have harder women and softer men, but women bring humility. It’s about the guest, about being part of their experience rather than stomping on it, if I’m allowed to say that,” she says.
LORETTA BOLOTIN
KRISTOFFER PAULSEN
EMILY WEAVING
CEO of Free to Feed Free to Feed CEO Loretta Bolotin doesn’t think it’s a coincidence that she employs more women at her not-for-profit social enterprise. All three of her chefs are female, outperforming their male counterparts during interviews. When asked during an interview how he might problem-solve, one prospective employee said he’d take the person causing the issue into the cool room and “give them a dressing down”. “All three of our chefs have had successful careers, but they notice the toxicity that exists in the hospitality sector. Our workplace encourages wellbeing and is about creating a nurturing environment for our participants and staff alike,” says Bolotin. Free to Feed runs paid training and development
S O F IA L E VI N
courses for new migrants and people seeking asylum. Participants complete a Certificate III in Commercial Cookery and share their culture through food in their cooking classes. Bolotin estimates about 80 per cent of the program’s participants are women due to greater barriers faced when transitioning into hospitality as new migrants. “Many of the women in our program are also mothers, so they are balancing significant caring responsibilities,” Bolotin says.
JAYNE LEWIS
Co-owner of Two Birds Brewing Hospitality is changing in the drinks world, too. Australia’s first femalefounded brewery, Two Birds Brewing, turns 10 this June. Co-founder Jayne Lewis has been in the industry for 18 years and also started the Australian arm of The Pink Boots Society, a non-profit organisation that supports women in brewing. “When I started there was myself and one other female brewer in the industry, but it’s becoming so much less of a thing,” she says. Research has shown that women have more taste buds than men, which is related to being a “supertaster” – someone who experiences flavour more vividly. According to an oft-cited study from Yale Medical School, about 35 per cent of women but only 15 per cent of men fit the description. “The beer-making process is the same between genders, but I believe there is a difference around finesse and tasting as well,” says Lewis. “There’s more balance.” Still, the gendered stigma remains in the brewing world. Lewis is constantly met with surprise when she tells people that she makes beer, but insists it’s a fun industry to work in once you get past the stereotypes. Besides, she points out, women were brewing beer long before blokes. “Brewing was the traditional job of women up until the Industrial Revolution. It was part of preparing food,” she says. “Now women are taking back brewing. We’re absolutely still a minority, but we’re coming on at a rate of knots.” ●
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TASTE TRAIL \ YARRA VALLEY Having outgrown its day-trip status, it’s time to linger longer in the Yarra Valley. Wo r d s
H
T H E VI E W F R O M K A N G A R O O R I D G E R E T R E AT
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DOMINEY FLORES
A place to stay & roam
S O F IA L E VI N
ome to big-name wineries like Rochford, Oakridge and Levantine Hill Estate, the Yarra Valley's roads unfurl through vines and paddocks, morphing from volcanic red soils to temperate rainforest. It's an oversight to day-trip here solely for a winery lunch or Attica Summer Camp when there are smaller gems to explore. A magical base is Kangaroo Ridge Retreat, 10 kilometres from Healesville. The two self-contained cabins have jaw-dropping valley views from the balcony and oversized spa bath. It's bohemian-chic with velvet cushions, cowhide beside the fireplace and local art on the walls. Order a Yarra Valley pasta or barbecue pack to cook in, pimp the complimentary breakfast hamper or assemble a cheese platter and grab a bottle from the fridge.
HUGH ALLEN
SOFIA LEVIN
Eat
Drink
Do
Don’t miss
Former Merricote chef Matt Binney
Orchard Bar is a designer shipping-
Near Yarra Junction is the Yarra
Visit Yarra Valley Artisan Bakery in
runs Heartswood in Yarra Glen’s old
container bar specialising in ciders
Valley Archery Park; indoor target
Wesburn early, before Ben Griffiths
Colonial Bank building. The dinner
and seasonal cocktails, set among
archery suitable for friends, families
sells out of naturally fermented
menu explores different cuisines,
Napoleone Cider’s apple trees. Sit
and team building. An hour costs
sourdough. The caneles are the best
and brunch highlights local produce.
outdoors or borrow a picnic blanket.
$25 per adult and $20 for under-18s.
we’ve tasted.
● heartswood.com.au
● napoleone.com.au
● yvap.com.au
● yarravalleyartisanbaker.com
You'll need a weekend for the booming Lilydale Road Precinct alone. Four Pillars distillery kicked things off in 2015 and recently started a year-long, $6 million expansion, but the latest addition is Jayden Ong Winery and Cellar Bar, opposite Watt's River Brewery. Winemaker Jayden Ong has four minimal-intervention wine labels, and serves five snacks cooked on hibachi grills for $35. Ong, who
co-founded Cumulus Inc. and Cumulus Up alongside Andrew McConnell, might serve duck meatballs with local plum or a charred leek pulled from his garden, depending on the season. Then there is No.7, an urban winery dedicated to helping young winemakers get a start, with a restaurant menu centred on Mexican flavours and Japanese ingredients.
Next door, Payten & Jones feels like it should be in a Brunswick alley. High school mates Behn Payten and Troy Jones make raw, natural-leaning wines on-site and serve them alongside local beers, Spanish sherry and cava. There's street art on roller doors, Melbourne artists on their wine labels and “Banjo the oyster man” shucking Friday to Sunday. A whisky bar is expected in winter. ●
Epworth Freemasons Maternity
We take care of the big things, so you can focus on the tiny ones. Exceptional care and world-class facilities make Epworth Freemasons a premium choice for maternity. Our expert obstetricians and midwives ensure your baby has the best start in life. Private health insured, or self-funded, enjoy your boutique room and our renowned chef-prepared meals as you bond with your baby. Epworth Freemasons | call 03 9418 8300 Level 2, 320 Victoria Parade, East Melbourne epworth.org.au DOM A IN REV IEW
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EAST MELBOURNE \ 13-19 POWLETT STREET 6
3
6
One of the first grand mansions of Jolimont, this belle of 1858 stays unswervingly true to its era. The two-storey, freestanding house on 811 square metres is gently updated and eminently liveable; it also has a two-bedroom apartment with its own entrance above the main garage. High ceilings with lavish roses maintain the Victorian pomp in the bay-window living and sitting rooms and formal dining room (with marble fireplaces). There’s a modern granite kitchen with Miele appliances, office, powder room and double bedroom (with en suite). Upstairs are three double bedrooms, the largest with a walk-in wardrobe. The whitetiled family bathroom has a bath and shower. The property has a cellar, hydronic heating and access from Powlett Mews to the two garages. ● ALISON BARCLAY
Agent: Kay & Burton, Monique Depierre 0407 881 327 Price: $7.5 million-$8.25 million Expressions of interest: close 3pm, May 31
RICHMOND \ 42 BELL STREET 3
2
1
Within walking distance of cafes, restaurants and public transport, and a short stroll from the MCG, this townhouse offers a fine urban lifestyle. Designed by Techne Architecture, the two-level property has timber and white decor, black-framed windows and black fittings. The kitchen has Gaggenau appliances, integrated Sub-Zero refrigeration including wine fridges and a bar. The living, dining and kitchen area opens via stacker doors to a pretty landscaped courtyard with a barbecue kitchen. The three bedrooms on the first floor have built-in wardrobes. The main bedroom has an en suite and the family bathroom has a free-standing bath. Zoned climate control, a laundry, video intercom, alarm and speakers are included. ● BEVERLEY JOHANSON
Agent: Jellis Craig, Elliot Gill 0411 863 603 and James Vine 0402 438 271 Price: $2 million-$2.2 million
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Auction: 1pm, May 22 DOM A IN REV IEW
3a
MELBOURNE 222/299 Queen Street THE SKY TERRACE AT THE REPUBLIC Superbly positioned in this enviable mid-town location, this breathtaking apartment offers a rare of opportunity. Widely considered one of the city's most architecturally significant buildings, by renowned architect Nonda Katsalidis, the Republic Tower is an iconic building of 87 luxury apartments. Perched on level 22, this two-level "sky terrace" apartment enjoys stunning views through the city skyline and epitomises refined apartment living.
FOR SALE Expressions of Interest CLOSING Thursday 10th June
2b
2v
Scott McElroy 0411 889 972 Sam Fenna 0437 309 715
VIEW By Private Appointment GUIDE $2,650,000 - $2,850,000
belleproperty.com/Melbourne
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GREG HOCKING HOLDSWORTH
44 Merton Street, Albert Park “Lorimer” redefines prestige. This landmark Victorian residence, set on 830sqm (approx) showcases exquisite period features. Gorgeous formal lounge with striking original fireplace. Modern extension with open-plan living and dining, lending designer style to the Victorian pedigree. Delightful private garden with bluestone-paved entertaining. Gourmet kitchen with stainless steel countertops, butler’s pantry and Wolf gas cooker. Sumptuous master suite. Two more bedrooms with walk-in robes, a fourth bedroom/front lounge, fifth bedroom with excellent home office potential. Indulgent family bathroom with freestanding tub and separate rain shower. Ducted heating and cooling, laundry and powder room, double remote garage and separate single garage.
Albert Park 8644 5500 12
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Price Auction Inspect Contact
A 5 B 2.5 C 3 D 1 Contact Agent Sat 5th Jun at 1.30pm See website for details Simon Gowling 0422 234 644 Max Mercuri 0431 043 723
greghocking.com.au
GREG HOCKING HOLDSWORTH
A
63 Merton Street, Albert Park Showcasing beautiful period details, with scope to add your personal style, this superb Victorian terrace features attractive formal lounge & dining and an easy flow through sky-lit living areas. Stone-topped kitchen with oversized gas cooktop, covered outdoor entertaining gardens. Upstairs, a large main bedroom with built-in robes and balcony, two more sizeable bedrooms and a family bathroom. Two ground floor bedrooms with bathroom and laundry, split-system heating/cooling, single garage via right of way. Albert Park College zone.
Albert Park 8644 5500
B
C
2
1
Contact Agent Sat 5th Jun at 11.30am See website for details Simon Gowling 0422 234 644 Max Mercuri 0431 043 723
Price Auction Inspect Contact
Contact Agent Sat 5th Jun at 11am See website for details Warwick Gardiner 0438 308 555 Greg Hocking 0418 329 961
A
62 St Vincent Street, Albert Park Just a stroll from Albert Park Village, this inviting modern home will impress immediately with fabulous natural light throughout. Formal lounge overlooking the elegant front gardens, spacious open-plan living and dining opening out to north-oriented easy-care courtyard gardens. Modern kitchen with gas cooktop and ample cupboard space. Master suite, two more double bedrooms and a bright family bathroom. Laundry, ground floor powder room, ducted heating, split-system cooling, off-street parking. Albert Park College zone.
5
Price Auction Inspect Contact
3
B
2.5
C
1
greghocking.com.au DOM A IN REV IEW
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Brian Stanton 0418 107 356
www.cheapnneattreeservices.com.au Email: Stanton@cheapnneat.com.au
TREE & STUMPMASTERS All trees removed or Pruned All Stumps Removed Mulching & Mulch for sale! Fully insured
NEW STAFF?
Fill your position online
Tree Lopping/Surgery
section of Network Classifieds.
Positions Vacant
NEED
Rubbish Removal
AARON & JOHN’S DEMOLITION & RUBBISH REMOVALS
12423837-SN32-19
General Classifieds
Garage Sales
PLACE YOUR
10 year Guarantee. Call now for a FREE quote: 0405 817 173
Reblocking/Underpinning
s Computer Levelling s Council permits supplied s Stumps for new extension s Engineers plans s FULLY INSURED Free Quote and advice
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Roller Shutters
,)#
ANY TREES LOPPED
12495731-JW21-21
• Full Insurance • 100% Computer leveling • Building permit supplied • Since 1999 • Pump to be used Call Sam for a Free Quote 9324 8575 or 0409 237 487
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48 Davies Avenue, Sunshine North 9364 0770 SWA6566B
REBLOCKING
s &AST HOT WATER REPAIRS s "LOCKED TOILETS DRAINS s !LL PLUMBING METAL ROOlNG REPAIRS
EXPERT
G6795050AA-dc29Apr 1132314-LB19-14
The best Reblocking & Underpinning
Servicing Moonee Valley since 1976
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Lock servicing
10% Pensioner Discounts
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EXTREME
Lic 37959
SENTINAL LOCKSMITHS Lockouts
Registered Building Practitioner
FINLAY PLUMBING P/L
Locksmiths 12422945-SN31-19
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WWW CRAIGSGAS COM 1237723-LB32-16
KS Heating & Cooling
s 'AS APPLIANCES SERVICE SPECIALISTS s #ARBON MONOXIDE TESTING s &ULLY LICENSED s 3ENIORS $ISCOUNTS
Open 7 days
PH: 9360 5357 Mobile: 0412 378 193
Servicing your area for over 20 years
Employment
$100/ 30mins
12400498-CG38-18
s #ARPENTRY s 0AINTING s 4ILING s 2ENOS
FREE SMOKE ALARM
12400545-LB38-19
Semi-Retired Builder at Your Service
Plumbing
1239688-HM34-16
ALL JOBS
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ALL SUBURBS ★ RAISING ★ LEVELLING ★ UNDERPINNING ★ RESTUMPING WITH CONCRETE OR REDGUM STUMPS ★ COUNCIL PERMIT ★ ALL WORK GUARANTEED
12495465-DL22-21
CALL MICHAEL 0410 095 081
Adult Services
Rainbow Dolls
NICK’S RE-BLOCKING SERVICE
C915642-JM14-11
s )NSURED s 0ENSIONER DISCOUNTS s &REE QUOTES
Reg No 8659
12447720-LB18-20
s &LYSCREEN REPAIRS s 4REE LOPPING s !LL HOME REPAIRS
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MEMBER OF MASTER BUILDERS ASSOCIATION
PETER'S PLASTERING SUPPLIES
✮Plastering work including wall & ceiling repairs, internal & external ✮Will install & supply ceiling roses, cornices & archways ✮Free quotes Call Peter 9375 4931 or 0414 412 840
s Painting s Fencing s Tiling s Guttering s Locks/Doors
Reblocking/Underpinning
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12372278-DJ47-17
HOME HANDYMAN
Plasterers
Free Quotes
Steve - 0437 437 511
12393815-SN30-18
V 1145189-DJ29-14
ADVERTISE with us and get better results
ANY TREES LOPPED Trees Pruned Reshaped Grubbed out. All Foliage/Rubbish Removed Fully Insured $10m Pensioner Discount
Free Quote 7 Day Service 45 yrs exp.
12340308-HM08-17
Handy Persons
12432907-SG47-19
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General Classifieds
C & D Schroeder 9337 3695 or 0415 816 882
Local professionals in our
Trades & Services section of Network Classifieds.
CALL 1300 666 808
RESIDENTIAL PRIVATE DINING Artist’s impression
WITH 140 STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE, YOU’LL FEEL RIGHT AT HOME. A Seafarers lifestyle extends far beyond the luxuries of your grand-scale home. As Melbourne’s first international hotel-branded residences, it also places a dedicated team of 140 staff at your service, and gives you access to all the guest amenities of Australia’s first 1 Hotel, including: – – – – – – –
Artist’s impression
2 AND 3-BEDROOM RESIDENCES PARK/CITY VIEW from $1,215,000 RIVERFRONT from $1,900,000 ON-SITE DISPLAY SUITE NOW OPEN CALL 1300 308 295 FOR PRIVATE VIEWINGS
For more information SEAFARERS-RESIDENCES.COM.AU/DISCOVER
Private dining rooms with chef catered dinners Housekeeping and personal shopping In-home room service and wellness treatments 24-hour concierge and valet parking Business services and meeting rooms Botanical care and maintenance services Pet care and walking. Situated on the last piece of Melbourne’s original waterfront, a Seafarers residence promises a truly life changing experience—but one that will have you feeling right at home, in no time at all.