PEOPLE & PROPERTY OF MELBOURNE
FOOD
KNEADING IT LOCALLY
EATING OUT A DELICIOUS SECRET
REBECCA MADDERN A TA LE OF T WO CITIES
M O O N E E VA L L E Y
JUNE 30 - JULY 6, 2021
EOFY SALE NOW ON! Save up to $1,000
C o mp i l e d b y
HAILEY COULES
The editor’s desk
MICHEAL KELLY
One of the things I’ve enjoyed most about the gradual reopening of the state and the country has been getting back to the airport. Strange, I know, but I love flying and getting to a new place. The excitement of being at the airport and counting down until I land (even just locally) still remains. Someone whose airport attendance would far surpass mine is this week’s cover star, Weekend Today’s Rebecca Maddern. As she tells Effie Mann in our story, she can sometimes do four domestic flights in a weekend between her Today show gig and seeing her beloved Cats play. Talk about commitment. ●
GARDEN PARTY \ The Smith on High Street in Prahran
HOME STRETCH \ Reformer pilates studio Love
has a huge list of events on offer, from a bottomless
Athletica has recently launched an At Home With Love
Supper Club to Dessert for Dinner and Bistro Morgan
service for those looking to get a workout without
Dessert Takeover. ● thesmithprahran.com.au
leaving the house. ● loveathletica.com.au
GOING PLACES Things to do & see in Melbourne
OUR COVER \ Channel Nine presenter Rebecca Maddern, photographed by Julian Kingma
MORE TO LOVE ONLINE Go to domain.com.au/domain-review General inquiries \ 9249 5226 \ editorial@domain.com.au Editor \ Jemimah Clegg Editorial producer \ Hailey Coules Group picture editor \ Vashti Newcomb Senior designer \ Colleen Chin Quan Graphic designer \ Emma Staughton Editorial director \ Adrian Lowe National managing editor \ Alice Stolz Group director, Consumer \ Jason Chuck Chief executive officer Domain Group \ Jason Pellegrino
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Ray van Veenendaal \ 0438 279 870
M O O N E E VA L L E Y
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TODAY’S CATCH \ The Fishmonger’s Son in Carlton
SHARP MINDS \ On August 2, legendary chef
North now has fish sandwiches available for takeaway
Josh Niland is hosting the Take One Fish Butchery
and in-house sashimi, only on Thursdays and Fridays.
Masterclass at Hamer Hall, joined by MasterChef alum
● www.thefishmongersson.com
Alice Zaslavsky. ● artscentremelbourne.com.au
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Sell it, rent it or just sit tight Follow your home on Domain to see what your next move should be.
Visit domain.com.au/owners
FOOD organic and biodynamic local flour, keeping white flour for pastries (yes, his pain au chocolat is hard to resist).
THE FLOUR HOUSE
BEN SWINNERTON
To Be Frank, 1/4 Bedford St, Collingwood
● tobefrankbakery.com.au BAKER BLEU \ THE BREAD MOTHERSHIP
pastries must get a mention, too. “I’m trying to keep the bread as natural as I can,” Malone says. “I’ve got a grain-to-table approach, and I do everything by hand.” Ever so slightly obsessed with bread, he opened the Flour House in 2019. The pandemic put the business on the map locally, he says. The Flour House 3 Graham Rd, Highett
On the rise Wo r d s
M A RY O ’ B R I E N
T O B E F R A N K BA K E RY
Melburnians are lining up for top-notch bread at local artisan bakeries that champion a fresh approach.
W
hile the smell of fresh bread sliding out of the oven is both comforting and evocative, the process of creating it takes skill and perseverance. Baking bread is a serious business, and it’s no surprise bakers are often evangelical about their methods. As many of us discovered during last year’s lockdowns, kneading, mixing and getting dough to rise is no easy task. While we experimented at home, our respect increased for the people who run the artisan bakeries in our neighbourhoods. Here are three exciting bakeries that emerged as local heroes.
THE FLOUR HOUSE \ WATCH THE ACTION
Hiding in the back streets of Highett is this gem of a bakery, possibly the only one in Melbourne that mills its own flour. Owner Damian Malone is passionate about local ingredients and sources grains from Victorian farms, including Sharkey’s, near Bacchus Marsh. He and his team bake seven to 10 different breads daily. The weekly list includes a house-milled biodynamic spelt sourdough, a sprouted wheat and sunflower, and a sourdough made with Two Brothers apple cider. Of course, his mouth-watering
● theflourhouse.com.au TO BE FRANK \ ALL ABOUT RESPECT
When Franco Villalva opened To Be Frank bakery in a Collingwood back street, he was initially overwhelmed by the challenge. Using his second language in a new country, the Argentinian-born baker relied on word of mouth to draw in his customers. But it didn’t take long for locals to discover his long-fermentation, naturally leavened breads made from organic or sustainable ingredients. Not only is the bread full of flavour, but it’s easier to digest, too, he says. A former pastry chef, Villalva is a passionate supporter of the ‘respectus panis’ (respect bread) movement, popular in France, where bread is made using a tiny amount of yeast, less salt, quality flours and long fermentation at room temperature. Villalva explains the 18-hour process breaks down the gluten and makes bread that is easy to digest. “The respectus panis bread is healthier than sourdough,” he says. “It’s a very soft bread; it’s not chewy.” The bakery produces 12-15 different breads each day, some using the respectus panis method and some sourdough. He mostly uses
From a hole-in-the-wall shop in Elsternwick, Baker Bleu won over the locals with its distinctive dark-crusted, caramel-tinged sourdough loaves. “People walking past could smell bread baking, and we built a business off that,” says Mike Russell, who opened the bakery with his wife Mia in 2016. Word spread about the amazing taste, and soon, top restaurants such as Attica, Cutler & Co and Di Stasio were queuing up, too. Last year, just before the pandemic started, Baker Bleu moved to larger premises in Caulfield North with a new oven and lots of space for their bread’s 48-hour fermentation process using wild yeast. Russell says: “We wanted to retain the magic of baking bread on site.” Originally from Sydney, Russell learnt his trade at top places such as Baker D Chirico, Bourke Street Bakery and Iggy’s (Sydney). Baking bread here is a three-day process, and ancient grains such as spelt, Khorasan wheat and buckwheat are sometimes used. Always keen to share tips, Russell recently did a live-streamed Instagram cooking class with chef Shane Delia of Providoor. Baker Bleu 119-121 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield North
● bakerbleu.com.au
BA K E R B L E U
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COVER STORY Rebecca Maddern spends a lot of time filming
in Sydney, but she remains staunchly Victorian at heart.
Where else but Melbourne? 8
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Rebecca Maddern at her holiday home on the Surf Coast.
R
ebecca Maddern should probably live in Sydney. The TV journalist flies to the harbour city every Friday for her co-hosting role alongside Richard Wilkins on Channel Nine’s Weekend Today, and recently wrapped up filming for Australian Ninja Warrior up there too. Still, for the TV veteran and hardcore AFL fan, it’s a move she’s always resisted. “To be honest, I’ve probably shot myself in the foot on a few occasions in years gone by, by not moving to Sydney,” she says with a loud laugh. “Throughout my career, there’s always been an opening there and at times I have considered it, but Melbourne has always had my heart.” Growing up in Geelong, Maddern moved to Melbourne at 18 and has called it home ever since. That, she says, proved a godsend during a “difficult” 2020. “I think it’s really important to have a Melbourne representative in one of the biggest TV markets, and that was particularly evident through last year in and out of lockdowns,” the 43-yearold says. “I think that gave [Weekend Today] a huge advantage. “The majority of people on air in similar roles are based in Sydney … I felt I had a real responsibility to broadcast to Australia what Melburnians were feeling.” Being home all the time was a struggle for the usually frantically paced Maddern, who works away from home for three weeks straight when Australian Ninja Warrior is filming. The show, modelled on a Japanese format, involves competitors navigating a high-stakes obstacle course, and often sees Maddern filming with co-hosts Shane Crawford, Ben Fordham and Nick Kyrgios through the night. Earlier this year, she was tied up for weeks anchoring Nine’s coverage of the Australian Open tennis. “It’s a sacrifice but I have always loved work and I couldn’t imagine not working,” she says of the work-life STYLING \ Kate Hastilow
EFFIE MANN ●
Ph o t o
J U LIA N KI N G M A
juggle. “I just put my head down and get on with the job, and look forward to getting home.” Home mattered more than ever in 2020 for Maddern, as it did for most Melburnians coming to grips with the COVID-19 restrictions: she threw herself into expanding her cooking repertoire – and her waistline, she quips. Maddern also began to run. With a limited social life and access to extended family curtailed, inaccessible childcare and – ugh! – no playgrounds, 2020 instilled in her an appreciation for life’s “little joys”. “I’m certainly not going to forget the lessons of 2020,” she says. “I have a new appreciation for all the little things in life that bring me joy, and I want to really savour that.” Speaking from her holiday house near Aireys Inlet – where she spends her downtime with husband Trent Miller and their three-year-old daughter Ruby, and where Maddern feels most at home – she says one such joy is family time at the beach. Having spent the holidays of her youth further down the coast at Lorne, Maddern says she is enjoying reliving the same experiences with her daughter. With a national park stretching behind and 180-degree ocean views out the front, the house is the kind of retreat that allows her to “just take it easy and breathe”. “People often say, ‘Don’t you get bored?’ and I say, ‘No, quite the opposite; there’s always something to do,’” she says of the getaway’s natural surrounds. “Ruby thinks having kangaroos in your backyard is quite the norm, which is lovely.” Maddern likes to run along the local bush tracks, while Miller can be found out in one of the coastline’s many famous surf breaks, perhaps even catching a wave with Geelong Cats football star and coastal near-neighbour and friend Patrick Dangerfield. In winter, the big open fire is roaring, and the footy is always on,
and this is when Rebecca Maddern says she is at her happiest. “My number one thing that I love to do is AFL footy,” she says, recalling how she and her sportsobsessed girlfriends would play netball at Geelong’s Kardinia Park on Saturday mornings, go home to shower, then return to watch the footy match. A love of AFL runs in the family: her great-grandfather, Harry “Nipper” Marsham, captained Geelong more than a century ago and her stepdad served on the board. Maddern, herself, has been the Cats’ No. 1 ticket holder for a decade. It’s a role the diehard fan takes extremely seriously, and she has vowed never to reveal her favourite player or, rather, players. When pushed, however, Maddern says if she had to iron a number onto Ruby’s little guernsey, it would be hard to go past “Danger’s” 35. Working every weekend, however, isn’t particularly conducive to following the great Aussie game, Maddern concedes, and she is a fan of Thursday night football. For big games, she will f ly back to Melbourne after hosting Saturday’s Weekend Today, then back to Sydney for her 4am wake-up call for Sunday’s show. “Yep, I’m that crazy!” We wrap up our call. Maddern is out of time and airport-bound – again. While she’s away, renovations on the family’s Victorian terrace house in Melbourne, which began in March, will continue. “We plan on being there for the next 20 years as we love the location so much,” she says. Further proof, if it was needed, that Rebecca Maddern doesn’t intend heading north any time soon. ● AUSTRALIAN NINJA WARRIOR \ Sunday 7pm, Monday and Tuesday 7.30pm, Nine WEEKEND TODAY \ Saturday and Sunday 7am, Nine
HAIR & MAKEUP \ Leah Briody
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OUT FOR DINNER
Seoul food in an intimate setting
I
n a cruel twist of fate, this review is being published after CHAE’s July and August bookings went online. It will be spring before you get the chance to dine at Jung Eun Chae’s six-seat Korean restaurant run from her Brunswick apartment, but put September 1 in your diary. Now. It’s open Tuesday and Wednesday for lunch ($59 per person) and for dinner Friday and Saturday ($69 per person). Considering Chae spends the rest of the week fermenting produce, air-drying corn and making soybean paste from scratch, it’s a steal – if you can land a seat. Chae escorts us down the hall to a lift. Residents in gym gear chat loudly while she stands professionally in the corner, apron on and ready for service. In her apartment, three
Wo r d s
S O F IA L E VI N
CHAE
We’re upgrading the Sunbury Line As part of Victoria’s Big Build, we’re upgrading the Sunbury Line. Improving accessibility and extending station platforms to allow bigger, more modern trains to run on the line.
Arch support | Lightweight | Washable | Vegan
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Until 8pm each day, 5 to 7 Jul 8 Jul
North Melbourne to Sunbury
Sunshine to Sunbury
Find out if you’re affected at bigbuild.vic.gov.au
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Est. 1958
Authorised by the Victorian Government, 1 Treasury Place, Melbourne
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www.mclaughlancomfortshoes.com.au ianrona@telstra.com
island benches are each set for two. All stovetop burners are alight, and the oven warms local and Korean ceramics. Chae’s shelves are stacked with vinegars, ferments and scobies that look like fluidpreserved specimens. She isn’t licensed but pours thumbs of homemade makgeolli – milky, sparkling rice wine.
PU M PKI N SA L A D
Bugak, deep-fried vegetable crisps, are arranged on a plate that looks like a river stone. They’re accompanied by walnut and fig, sticky with fermented rice syrup. Chae doesn’t use refined sugar, which makes the sweetness of the pumpkin porridge with glutinous rice balls that follows all the more impressive. Barramundi is marinated in yihwaju (Korean rice wine) salt and served in clear mussel broth amped with wasabi. Chopped eye fillet tartare is flavoured with homemade soy and sesame. Purple-tinged rice concealed by edamame is served along with beef rib broth and banchan (side dishes). We wrap the rice in kelp sheets with gochujang (fermented chilli paste) and marvel at the sesame character of pickled perilla leaves. For dessert,
What’s nearby? Another one-woman show, Tofu Shoten is a tiny shop inside Kines cafe in Brunswick R I C E WIT H L O T U S R O O T
where Sava Goten makes tofu and soybean products. There’s soy milk, miso
Chae shaves ice for patbingsu and covers it with sweetened red beans, rice balls, roasted soybean powder and milk jam. When she finds a house further north, Chae won’t ever serve more than six diners, but she hopes to run kimchi classes with the same vibrancy as passata-making Italian families. ●
made from leftover tofu pulp, a nutty spread containing vegan butter, kinako (roasted soybean powder), organic maple syrup, and more.
● tofushoten.com
● Chae ● 288 Albert St, Brunswick ● chae.com.au
Welcome to our Neighbourhood Come to our over 55s lifestyle village community Open Day
Saturday 3 July 11am - 2pm
Enjoy a barista made coffee and talk with us about our Exclusive Open Day Offer! RSVP before 24 June 2021 on 1300 298 439
25 Bellavista Drive, Avondale Heights
1300 298 439
www.rivervue.com.au
@RivervueRetirement DOM A IN REV IEW
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HAWTHORN \ 7/127 POWER STREET 4
2
2
With eating, drinking and shopping options all nearby, this tri-level townhouse comes with an abundance of innercity lifestyle appeal. The residence itself is set back from the street within this boutique development. Inside, it is contemporary, expansive and versatile, with a ground-floor bedroom that could also function as living or office space. The main bedroom on first floor has an en suite while the other two share a bathroom, with timber stairs leading up to open-plan living enhanced by raked, timber-lined ceilings with clerestory windows accentuating light and space. The living area extends through full-width glass stacking sliders to a large north-facing terrace offering city views. Remote blinds, awning, ducted vacuum, laundry and internally accessed double garage are among other highlights. ● JOANNE BROOKFIELD Agent: Marshall White Boroondara, Tim Mursell 0419 800 709 Price: $1.4 million-$1.5 million Auction: 11.30am, July 10
BALWYN \ 1/11 POWER STREET 4
4
4
Located in the desirable Balwyn High School zone, with Kew’s private schools only a tram ride away, this brand new home has plenty of space for a family. The four bedrooms each have en suites with floor-to-ceiling tiling, concealed LED lighting and smart toilets. Similar hi-tech luxuries are throughout, with Control4 automation, in-floor hydronic heating and a basement cinema with bar, big screen, projector and integrated speakers. A lift connect the three levels of this home. Miele appliances are in the kitchen and butler’s pantry, with a window splashback bringing garden greenery into the light-filled living-dining zone on ground level. Outside, a low-maintenance garden comes with a spa, double garage and security cameras. ● JOANNE BROOKFIELD
Agent: Kay & Burton Bayside Brighton, Eleisha Doherty 0434 029 128 Price: $2.6 million-$2.8 million
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Private sale DOM A IN REV IEW
Luxury Living at West End Penthouse Collection / 112 Adderley Street, West Melbourne
Artist impression
This striking penthouse collection with panoramic views redefine luxury living in Melbourne’s exciting West End. With the opportunity to create your dream property from the current shell, or utilize the existing custom designed plans. 3 & 4 bedroom options range from 127-397m2 approx. of internal living. With exquisite detail including marble, timber and brass finishes, balcony, state-of-the art marble/Gaggenau kitchen, built-in bar, laundry, ample parking, residents’ pool, spa and garden. adderley-penthouses.com
Expressions of Interest
View By Private Appointment
Contact
Contact
Marcus Heron 0422 822 995 Prestige Homes of Victoria
Michael Paproth 0488 300 800 The Agency
prestigehomes.com.au
theagency.com.au
Sassafras "Chateau Jardin Parfume" | A palace in the sky
Indulging the senses high above the city lights of Melbourne, no expense or effort has been spared in the creation of this simply unrepeatable French inspired chateau. Set on approximately 2,400sqm, framed by its European façade and immersed within an exquisite established landscaped garden sanctuary, this immensely private residence is one of the �inest homes ever to be offered for sale in the Dandenong Ranges only 30 minutes drive from the south east suburbs of Melbourne. Buoyed by a privileged elevated position, the imposing timeless architecture is at home within its lavish perfumed gardens �illed with roses, camelias, gardenias, tulips, freesias, hyacinth, jasmine, Mexican orange blossoms, over 50 custom made pots and several statues including 4 Seasons, Dali Alice in Wonderland and Dali the Surrealist Piano. Recently transformed and extensively rebuilt throughout, lavish proportions include soaring ceilings to all levels, Italian porcelain �looring, imported staircases, divine wood paneling from
Private Sale
French and Belgium Chateaus, thick marble surfaces and the latest high-end appliances. The extensive layout features two extravagant master suites complete with sumptuous ensuites, decadent living & dining rooms, a top �loor gold class theatre room for eight and, adding a further aristocratic feel, an inspired cigar room by Roberto Cavalli. Designed for entertaining kings & queens, Chateau Jardin Parfume is the ultimate destination. The exquisite outdoor areas can be enjoyed in solace or entertaining in grand style; taking full advantage of the mountain landscape and abundance of wildlife, offering poolside lounging in the summer, misty winter nights by the large Cheminees Philippe open �ire place, or treating friends to a fully catered celebration making use of the commercial cooking and outdoor refrigeration facilities.
45 Mount Eliza Way, Mount Eliza 3930 | LOCAL EXPERTS | GLOBAL DOMINANCE AGENTS: Rob Curtain 0418 310 870 | Marco Santos 0426 046 937
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Showroom @ 18 Quinn Drive, Keilor PArk, 3042 Roofing
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Employment
Rubbish Removal
AARON & JOHN’S DEMOLITION & RUBBISH REMOVALS • Demolition Specialists • Backyard Cleanups • Concrete Broken or Cut & Removed • Tree Lopping & Removal • Rental Cleanups • Deceased Estate Cleanups We Take Anything Away
Call 0434 525 311
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General Classifieds
• Economics • Legal Studies • Politics "Give your child the best chance." best-chance-tutoring.business.site Call Mark 0408 360 604
10 year Guarantee. Call now for a FREE quote: 0405 817 173 V
Adult Services
48 Davies Avenue, Sunshine North 9364 0770 SWA6566B
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Positions Vacant
WWW.MEDWEST.COM.AU
12500747-CG25-21
6 SESSIONS OF 1 HOUR FOR EITHER:
G6133636AA-dc2Jul
Tiling
• Bathroom, Toilet, Kitchen • Free Measure and Quote • Pensioner Discount 35 years in the trade
Pls. ring Roz 0427 963 906 OTHER RELATED TRADES AVAILABLE
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The world has changed, and we need compassionate and bold people to make a life change and move to Gippsland. Be empowered to inspire people, enliven communities and confront social injustice. We have multiple opportunities in community services ranging from: • Caseworkers • AOD & Youth Residential workers • Manager positions Work with us and enjoy a positive and supportive culture, training opportunities and rewarding work. We will also offer relocation costs for successful applicants. Learn more about the roles on offer and rewarding lifestyle you can live in Gippsland. Contact Melissa Hulston on 0432 185 226 or melissa.hulston@vt.uniting.org Please also visit our website: www.unitingvictas.org.au/careers/
12501094-CG26-21
Roof Restoration Specialists
One call, We do it all!
12447720-LB18-20
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Tree Lopping/Surgery
12340308-HM08-17
OZTEC WINDOW SHUTTERS
12502029-AV27-21
1235322622-PB22-17
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New Term Commencing 12th July
Mob. 0402 270 473 • Email: mooneeponds@gymbaroo.com.au
Steve - 0437 437 511 Roller Shutters
Exercise, massage, dance, show and tell, small equipment, large equipment and parachute shakers.
CAROLINE SPRINGS Springside Community Pavillion Becca Way Mon - Wed
TREE & STUMPMASTERS
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ESSENDON 29 St. Kinnord St Tues, Thurs & Fri
enrol.gymbaroo.com.au
12400498-CG38-18
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HURRY BOOK NOW! LIMITED SPACE AVAILABLE.
Fat Freeze or Electric Muscle Stimulation (EMS) for $600 12502092-DL27-21
This image is after 6 sessions over 10 weeks of EMS
HURRY LAST DAYS! UP TO 30% OFF Up to 30% off all Australian Made sofas and dining Up to 70% off end of season rugs and homewares Floorstock sofa clearance available now for quick delivery! Shop in store & online at sofasoul.com.au
614 Church Street, Richmond 3121
@sofaandsoul