THE SPLENDOR OF SPRINGTIME IN EUROPE
Experience Crete, Puglia, Lisbon and Lake Bracciano
ON THE INDIAN OCEAN
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GLOSSY MEDIA
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
STEVE DRAKE
EDITOR
JUNE DAGNALL
JUNE DAGNALL, STEVE DRAKE, ANNIE HENNESSEY, TOM JAMES, RICHARD LI, ANDREW MARSHALL, ANDREW NORTON, MATTHEW SCHUELLER, DIANE TIERNEY
SARA DARCAJ, STEVE DRAKE, BRYCEN FISCHER, ANNIE HENNESSEY, RICHARD LI, HEIDI KADEN, ANDREW MARSHALL, VIDAR NORDLI-MATHISEN, KARIN RIIKONEN, MATTHEW SCHUELLER, DIANE TIERNEY ADVERTISING
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20 Lisbon
BY ANDREW NORTON
The must see, must do checklist when visiting Portugal’s capital
Incredible national parks through the lens of a camera
See the Grand Canyon from the comfort of a recreational vehicle
52 Cruise the High Seas
BY DIANE TIERNEYGet the rock star treatment with Virgin Voyages
58 Luxury in the Indian Ocean
BY JUNE DAGNALLThe remote and largely untouched beauty of The Maldives
68 Memphis, Tennessee
BY ANNIE HENNESSEYA city made famous for its music but with so much more to offer
The most refreshing place to escape the crowds of Rome
Perhaps the best and most surprising destinations are those that we’ve heard very little about. After spending some time in Northern Italy, my husband and I decided to venture to the Puglia region in the South, a part of Italy’s infamous boot (lo Stivale region). That’s really all that I knew about the region before stepping off the plane.
Sandwiched between the Adriatic and Ionian Sea, Puglia is a predominantly rural region, very much in contrast to the metropolitan areas of Rome, Naples, and Milan. Boasting a wide selection of local cuisines, many of which are Arabic or Turkish inspired, it is nothing of what I expected Southern Italy to be like yet quickly became everything I love most about the country.
Puglia is known for its beautiful beaches, charming towns, and delicious cuisine. The region is home to a number of historic cities, such as Bari, Lecce, and Taranto, and is famous for its olive oil, wine, and fresh seafood. Puglia is also home to a number of fascinating cultural and historical sites, including the trulli houses in Alberobello and the Castel del Monte castle. The region has a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild winters. Overall, Puglia is a popular destination for tourists due to its beautiful landscapes, rich history, and delicious food.
Transferring from the small regional airport in Brindisi to our hotel in old town Ostuni, we marveled at majestic green hills of olive groves, and huge swarms of migratory birds that dominated the sky. As we approached Ostuni, you can imagine a centuries old Grecian city painted in white set atop a fortified hill. The image was so striking that I couldn’t believe that I had never heard about such a place. The architecture reminded me more so of places like Mykonos and Rhodes more-so than Italy… and learning of Puglia’s rich history of Greek and Roman conflict and conquests only added to the allure.
Settling into our room on the second floor of Hotel La Terra, I opened the door to our balcony and stepped out just in time to see the sunset. An elderly man played an accordion below, and kids ran by to get in a few more minutes of play before dark. Our plan the next day to visit Masseria Valente. Masserias, or fortified farmhouses, are an iconic feature of Puglia’s rural landscape. These structures date back to the 16th century and were built by wealthy landowners as a way to protect their land, crops, and livestock from bandits and invaders. Over time, masserias became centers of agricultural production, with olive groves, vineyards, and wheat fields surrounding the fortified walls. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, many masserias were abandoned or fell into disrepair,
but in recent decades, there has been a renewed interest in these historic buildings. Many have been restored and converted into hotels, restaurants, and cultural centers, offering visitors a chance to experience Puglia’s rich agricultural heritage and traditional way of life.
Set amidst a seemingly endless olive grove, Masseria Valente specializes in providing a superb farm-totable dining experience of course with plenty of olive oil from the surrounding olive trees. The plates started to arrive as soon as we sat down and included locally sourced cured meats and cheeses, Farro salad with green apple and Martina Capocollo, vegetable flan, beef pie with ricotta and potatoes, carob flour tagliatelle with condoncelli mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and grotto-aged caciocavallo flakes, and to top it all off a mixed roast of locally sourced beef. One thing we’ll never forget about Puglia is that we were never hungry. With such an abundance of richly cultural foods, the flavors were endless and seemingly so were the plates at any restaurant we visited! I never truly understood what a “Mediterranean diet” was and I often questioned the notion of a Mediterranean diet being good for you in the sense that I typically aligned spaghetti and lasagna with what I thought to be truly Mediterranean. After spending time in Puglia I learned that people eat a heap load of fresh chicory, vegetables, chick-peas, and locally-sourced and unprocessed foods, predominantly focusing on fish proteins with a very small focus on the consumption of red meat. Yes we felt full to the brim, but energized with delicious and truly whole foods!
I could imagine what a life it would be to live in the rural countryside, growing your own food in the garden, tending to olive trees and basking in the hot sun on a lazy afternoon. I felt lucky to be able to experience this while visiting. Puglia to me is a like a sigh of relief and deep exhale to say, this is the life.
One of the most surprising facts about Puglia is its allure to the LGBTQ community in Europe and abroad. Puglia is quickly becoming a hot spot and one of the most sought after locations for LGBTQ individuals to take a holiday. Most of the tourism revolves around the largest city in the region, Lecce, and the smaller, yet just as lively beach town, Gallipoli. Ancient streets and stucco meet bright turquoise waters and sandy beaches, perfect for spending the afternoon laid back and watching the waves roll in.
Lecce is a city located in the Apulia region of Italy. It is known for its beautiful Baroque architecture, and is often referred to as the “Florence of the South.” The city is home to a number of historic churches and palaces, including the Basilica of Santa Croce, which is famous for its ornate carvings and frescoes. Lecce is also home to the Roman Amphitheater which is one of the best preserved amphitheaters in Italy. In addition to its cultural and historical attractions, Lecce is known for its vibrant nightlife and delicious cuisine. The city is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, and is famous for its wine and olive oil.
Finding ourselves at La Restuccia, an LGBTQ resort just outside of Lecce, we were fascinated by the reclaimed architecture of the masseria. Formerly owned by the Italian Mafia, years after the property was repossessed and unserviced, a local family purchased the land and re-created a beautifully welcoming resort complete with a large palm-surrounded pool, and an event space often used to host large dance parties. Lucky for us, we got to experience such a party with over 500 guests coming from all over the rural landscape. It was not only unexpected, it was absolutely wild!
Puglia was not short on thrills. From trying a variety of dishes I had never even imagined, to learning how to make the famous orecchiette pasta, visiting the region was one of the most surprising and rewarding experiences of my life. Lesson learned, that if presented to go somewhere you’ve heard very little about, perhaps take the opportunity to surprise yourself. You never know what you might find.
Crete, Greece’s largest and most southerly island, is known for many things: ancient archaeological sites, spectacular hiking, and long sandy beaches that speckle the coastline. It is also here that the olive tree reigns supreme, and where some of the world’s best-quality olive oils are produced.
It’s late afternoon in olive country. We are in the west area of Crete, driving the twisting mountain road that links Palaichora on the south coast with Chania in the north. From the car windows, the dominant color is a silvery green as far as the eye can see. Row after row of olive trees carpet the rocky slopes, their leaves shimmering in the sunlight.
In Kandanos we stop for refreshment at a rustic roadside taverna where a couple of elderly Cretan women while away their time fiddling with worry beads, playing dominoes, and drinking coffee. We fall into a conversation with olive farmer Yannis Marinakis who kindly shows us around his olive grove on the outskirts of town. “I own around 500 of the 30 million olive trees on the island, and most families have at least a few,” says Yannis, proudly showing us some fantastically gnarled and twisted specimens over 1,000 years old.
Closer inspection reveals the trees bulging with the precious fruit. It’s mid-November and the olives are ready for harvesting. “The best way to pick olives is by hand so the fruit isn't bruised, but this can be so labor intensive. Here, we use nets placed beneath the trees to catch the olives that fall, or we use flexible sticks to beat them off the branches,” he says. “Six kilos of olives produce about one kilo of olive oil.”
The olive and its oil have been part of life in this corner of the Mediterranean since the beginning of civilization. In some Minoan graves, archaeologists have discovered ceramic pots containing charred olive stones which shows they were cultivated here some 3,500
years ago. Since then, Cretans have never stopped harvesting their beloved tree, and the island remains one of Greece’s most important olive-growing areas, with the west specializing in high-quality salad oils.
After visiting the centuries-old olive grove we drive to our base in 12th-century Vamos (25 km southeast of Chania), a far cry from the neon bright resorts that now line so much of the coastline. A few decades ago, this tumbledown village in the foothills of Lefka Ori (the White Mountains) was home to a dwindling population of shepherds and farmers whose offspring left to escape rural isolation.
These days Vamos plays host to culturally conscious travelers seeking a sustainable Mediterranean experience courtesy of the Vamos Traditional Village, a community venture to help preserve traditions, involve visitors in village life and focus on the cultural aspects of the area. “Here we offer daily activities such as Cretan cooking classes, soap-making using olive oil, olive picking, visiting a local cheese maker, and walks in the area,” says George Xatzidakis, one of the founding members of the company who was born and raised in Vamos.
Once the capital of the Province, some of Vamos’ important buildings such as the law court, bank and post office have been lovingly and tastefully restored into guest accommodation. We have hit the jackpot - our two story home which once sheltered the workers at the
old olive oil fabrica, now comes complete with olive wood beams, slate floors, lace curtains and an elevated patio with great views of the surrounding olive groves.
On our first evening over dinner at Sterna of Bloumosifis - a traditional local taverna that serves a wide variety of Cretan dishes, we ask George about the importance of olive oil to the people of Crete. “Olive oil is in our blood. It’s the basis of our nutrition and we cannot imagine our table without it, ” he says, as a couple of starter dishes (dacos and fava) arrive, literally swimming in oil. “We were brought up with it. As children we would eat fresh hot bread covered with a dribble of olive oil.”
George shows up the next morning to escort us to the nearby 16thcentury Agios Georgios Monastery at Karydi near Vamos. “In my opinion, this is one of the most important archaeological and architectural monuments in western Crete. Here you can visualize how a small self-sufficient economy once operated,” he tells us, indicating where the bread oven, cheese area, wine pressing area and olive press used to be.
Consisting of 12 impressive arches, the old olive factory completed in 1860 is particularly interesting, and some of the large circular millstones used for crushing the olives are still intact. Until the first decades of the 20th century, strong mules were made to turn the stones and the olives were crushed under the weight of the millstones. These days,
there’s an easier way. People take their olives to the nearest oil factory where special machinery with centrifugal power converts them into oil.
While looking around, we meet larger than life character Father Dorotheos who lives alone at the monastery. “When I first came here many years ago, I planted an olive grove. Being a monk and priest, I have plenty of time for picking them,” he says with a smile. We follow him into the courtyard past a large walnut tree and into a small church “Many Westerners think of olive oil as only being used in cooking or in salads, but in Crete we use it for many other purposes, some of them religious,” he says, taking an ornate gold lamp from the altar and filling it with oil. “The oil is used as fuel in lamps, mixed into cement to make churches and when a child is baptized it is anointed with olive oil.”
Located on the nearby Akrotiri Peninsula, is the beautiful 17thcentury Agia Triada Monastery where monks have been producing olive oil since 1632. Visitors are welcome and the distinctive thinstemmed bottles of Agia Triada oil make great gifts. To learn even more about the liquid gold, we pay a visit to the Cretan Center of Olive Oil Promotion on the outskirts of Chania. Here there is an interesting museum with exhibits such as oil pressing machines through the ages, the olive and its oil in ancient mythology, plus nutritional facts and benefits of olive oil.
“The Cretan diet is based on extravirgin olive oil and is the best for our health,” says director Dr Vaugelis Bourbos. “Scientific research
indicates that it keeps down the ‘bad’ cholesterol, keeps up the ‘good’ cholesterol and is an antioxidant. In fact, because of the generous amounts of olive oil in their diet combined with a low-stress lifestyle, many Cretans have very long healthy lives.”
Our last afternoon in Crete is spent exploring the streets of Chania’s beautiful, crumbling Venetian quarter that surrounds the Old Harbor, before ending up at the magnificent covered food market. Stallholders sell meat, fruit and vegetables and all manner of products from the olive tree: green or black olives, large or small, in brine or salt, with or without aromatic herbs. There’s olive paste which has always been a prized hors-d’oeuvre and spicy tasting cheeses preserved in jars of oil.
And of course, there’s some of the best extra virgin olive oil in the world. Stacked on shelves in bottles, tins, casks, and flasks are offerings from producers such as the Lyrakis Family, Sitia, Koroneiki, Liostama Kolymuari and Agia Triada. Probably the most difficult decision of your trip will be deciding which ones to buy to take back home.
Fly first to Athens, and then take a bus or taxi to Piraeus (the main port) where regular ferries leave for Chania. It’s also possible to fly directly to Chania from Athens. Some charter companies offer package trips (or charter flights) to Crete, especially in the winter months.
This dish made in the Greek way resembles a puree and is drizzled generously with extra virgin olive oil.
1/2 kg fava (yellow split peas)
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
1tsp salt, pepper
3 tbsp olive oil
To serve olive oil according to taste
2 lemons in slices
1 finely chopped onion olives(optional)
Method
Place split peas in a pot with onion, salt, 3 tablespoons of olive oil and cover with 5 cups of water. Cook over low heat until it becomes a mush and nearly all the water has been boiled off (about 1 hour). The pot should not be covered and near the end stir continuously so that it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Let it cool and thicken. On serving add olive oil according to taste, finely chopped onion, lemon slices, olives, capers, or mint leaves if so desired.
1 kg flour (preferably wheat flour)
2 packages dry yeast
1/2 cup olive oil
1 grated medium-sized onion
1 cup pitted black olives
1 tbsp dried mint
1/2 tsp salt, lentisk seeds, sesame seeds
Method
Dilute the yeast in a large bowl with 1 cup warm water and 1 cup flour to make it have a thick porridge-like consistency. Cover with a towel and leave for about half an hour until it bubbles. Add salt, onion, olive oil, mint, flour and as much water as is needed (about 2 cups). Knead well and when the dough is soft and elastic, add the olives. Cover the dough and leave it in a warm place to stand for 2 hours until doubled in size. Then form a large loaf of bread or many small ones, and sprinkle with sesame seeds and lentisk seeds. Place immediately in an oiled baking dish and let stand to rise again. When ready, place in a preheated oven and bake for about 45 minutes.
No matter what time of the year you visit Lisbon, you can rely on good weather, delicious food, and plenty of fun things to do. The capital of Portugal is known for its vibrant atmosphere and whether you're in the mood for exciting nightlife, historical sites, or even a trip to the beach, you can do all of that and more right here.
Between the food, sights, and tourist attractions, you won't find it hard to fill up your Lisbon travel itinerary. Not to mention all the bars, cafés, and clubs. Lisbon is also an amazing hub for day trips and you can visit other incredible parts of Portugal while you stay. Here are 10 fun things to do in Lisbon, Portugal.
One of the cool things about Lisbon is that the city’s public transport has become iconic in itself. Many people take a ride on one of its many traditional yellow trams just to enjoy the experience. These let you explore the city in style and experience great views economically.
Tram 28 is the most popular route. You should also take a ride on one of Lisbon’s three funiculars - the diagonal trams that take you on uphill rides.
Another must-see spot in Lisbon is the Castelo de São Jorge or St. George’s Castle. This Roman castle was built over 2,000 years ago and is one of the most astonishing landmarks in the entire city.
You can walk up here or take a tram. Whichever way you choose, you’ll be treated to stunning panoramic views of the city. It’s also an excellent place to explore the history of Lisbon as it hosts many interesting exhibitions.
While you can find all kinds of delicious food in Lisbon, pastéis de nata (or Portuguese custard tarts) have historically been a local favorite. If you ask the locals of Lisbon what to eat, they’ll likely recommend one of these mouthwatering pastries.
You can find pasteis de nata in various bakeries around Lisbon - some even solely dedicated to making these tarts. You can usually find these for around 1 Euro, although you’ll likely want to grab a few after trying one.
Ginjinha (also known as Ginja) is a Portuguese cherry liqueur that’s particularly popular in Lisbon. You can find various Ginjinha bars across the city and many locals start their day with a shot of this delicious alcoholic beverage.
Make sure you try a shot of Ginjinha while you’re here - especially since you can usually get one for around 1 Euro. Much like pastéis de nata, Ginjinha is a cultural fixture in Lisbon that is beloved by locals and tourists alike.
If you’re staying in Lisbon, taking a trip to Sintra is a must. Sintra is a mountain town that’s around 30 minutes from Lisbon and easily accessible via car, train, or bus. While you’ll find various trails and beaches, it’s mainly known as the home of many breathtaking castles and palaces.
From the Sintra National Palace to Castelo dos Mouros to the National Palace of Pena, there’s plenty to explore here in a day and you might even want to stay overnight. Sintra has some of the most beautiful views in Portugal.
Another top-notch Lisbon day trip you need to take is to Cascais, the beach resort town just 40 minutes away by car or train. From its gardens to casinos to its stunning beaches, this town offers a relaxing and uplifting vibe.
While you’re in Cascais, you can check out the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães, Parque Marechal Carmona, and the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego. Alternatively, you can chill on one of its many beaches and grab a cocktail or try some fun water activities like surfing and stand-up paddle boarding.
You don’t have to leave Lisbon to get incredible historical views. The Alfama district is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, and taking a walk around its labyrinthian cobbled streets is a fun experience in itself.
The Alfama is home to various attractions, including Castelo de São Jorge and the Lisbon Cathedral. However, you can also simply enjoy the cafes, souvenir shops, and fado bars that line its gorgeous streets.
Throughout the city of Lisbon, you’ll find various “miradouros” or viewpoints that give you some of the most exceptional views of the entire city. If you’re here for a while, you might want to make it a mission to try and hit as many of these as possible.
Some of the best viewpoints in Lisbon include the Miradouro da Graça, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, and Miradouro de Santa Luzia. You can often find bars and cafes in these spots, so you might want to grab a drink and a pastry while you enjoy the views.
The Oceanário de Lisboa indoor aquarium is one of Lisbon’s most popular attractions. You can see sharks, penguins, seals, starfish, octopuses, jellyfish, and all kinds of other sea life at this amazing exhibition.
It’s approximately a 20-minute drive from the city center but it’s easily accessible by public transport. The Oceanário de Lisboa makes for a great day out for families with children, but even if you’re traveling solo or with friends it’s well worth the visit.
Lisbon is known for its nightlife, and if you’re in the mood for an incredible night out then you must visit the Bairro Alto neighborhood. This district comes alive at night as many people party in the bars, clubs, and even on the streets.
Bairro Alto is home to over 100 bars and restaurants, but it’s not the only place you can have a fun night out. You could also check out the Cais do Sodré, Largo de Santos, and Principe Real areas. Whatever neighborhood you go with, it’s not hard to find great places to party in Lisbon.
Whether you’re traveling alone, with friends, or with your family, Lisbon is an incredible travel destination that suits travelers of all tastes. Whether you’re more interested in historical castles, aquariums, beaches, or bars, you can find all kinds of fun things to do in this iconic Portuguese city.
Of course, these are just a few of the fun things to do in Lisbon, Portugal. You might also want to visit Belém Tower, take a bike ride along the waterfront, fill up on fresh seafood, or visit the many markets, malls, and stores for some retail therapy. Whatever you decide, you’ll have an amazing time in Lisbon.
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Cruelty-free, thoughtfully designed vegan handbag with fresh new designs for 2023. The Pender backpack is the perfect hands free work bag. It holds a 13” laptop and has padding to keep it safe. It fits flat on the back and has a zip compartment on the front with 10 card slots and can hold all your essentials. The Calla iSmart is cross body purse with a built in wallet and phone pouch making it a great hands free travel companion. It has a gorgeous Calla Lilly floral motif that would make any garden lover very happy. The Cora iSmart is a cross body purse with built in wallet and phone holder making it a great hands free travel companion. The Cora iSmart is made from premium pebbled vegan leather and fits most smartphones in the front compartment and has room for multiple cards and cash..
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Featured Artist: Richard Li
Richard Li is a hopeless addict of film photography. A travel fanatic and a student for life, Richard is always trying new things in new places to tell new stories.
Instagram: @richiespixels
Gear: : Voigtlander Bessa R3A (35mm film camera), Olympus Infinity 35mm point and shoot, Lens: Voigtlander 75mm f1.5, Film stock: Kodak Portra 400, Kodak Ultramax 400, Kodak Pro Image 100, Kodak Gold 200
I couldn’t help but look up to admire these millennium old creatures and imagine the stories that they would tell. Maybe this will be one of them.
Nature is an artist whose work is ever changing, but never boring.
From the bottom of the Valley just after sunrise, the darkness under the canopy against the brilliant light on the mountainous valleys created this perfect dichotomy.
Always wondering, what’s around the bend?
Between the ducks, the trees, the mountains, and all that is beautiful, lies a sense of peace and belonging.
My pants and shoes might have been wet after this one but it’s probably the cleanest water these garments will ever be exposed to.
You’re waiting for a train. A train that’ll take you far away. You know where you hope this train will take you.
It’s a new reality of travel – there are going to be airport delays and unexpected layovers. Growing tourism demands and an under-capacity labor force means that airlines and airports are struggling. A long airport layover, planned or not, isn’t ideal – but it doesn’t need to be a bad experience.
Many major airports now see the importance of having an in-terminal hotel and recently I had the good fortune of experiencing the Sheraton Gateway Hotel at Pearson International Airport in Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
This is an upscale hotel, located inside Terminal 3, and just moments away from departure gates. Sheraton Gateway Hotel has recently been transformed and is so much more than just convenient – it is modern and luxurious with a heated indoor pool, impressive hotel amenities and incredible runway views from your hotel room.
I booked a Club King with a runway view. It’s part of why I love to travel – the journey… and the kid in me can sit and watch airplanes taxi, takeoff, and land for hours. In addition to the views to the runway, the room was elegantly understated and well-appointed with thoughtful touches including reading lights that were integrated into the headboard of the platform bed.
My arrival was late in the evening, and I only had time for a quick look at the dining room and bar area. Both were modern and quite spacious. However, I did have a chance to enjoy the Sheraton Club Lounge. I found a quiet and cozy spot; the perfect place to enjoy a light snack before I called it a night. The next morning, I was headed back to the Sheraton Club Lounge for an espresso and quick breakfast, before I ran to catch my flight.
GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP:
The Sheraton Gateway Hotel at Pearson International Airport features 487 newly renovated rooms and suites:
• 161 Traditional King Rooms
• 79 Traditional Double Queen Rooms
• 191 Club King Rooms
• 39 Club Double Queen Rooms
• 8 Family Studio Suites
• 5 Studio Suites
• 3 Business Junior Suites
• 1 Prime Minister Suite
WORTHY AMENITIES:
• Fitness Center
• Indoor Heated Pool
• Concierge
• Business Services
• Pet Friendly
• Laundry Services
• Indoor routing to airport gates AND Up Express train to downtown Toronto (this was very welcome as I visited during a bitter cold snap in January)
Bonus - If you are an avid Bonvoy loyalty member like I am, Sheraton is part of the Marriott family so you can earn (and burn) points at this airport property.
BY: ANDREW MARSHALL
The south west of the United States is a land designed for the imagination. For what else can help you to comprehend the grandeur and depths of the Grand Canyon, the soaring mesas and buttes of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, the spiritual reverence of Canyon De Chelly, and the color and vibrancy of Navajo, Hopi, and Pueblo cultures?
The variety and magnitude of the landscapes of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah is unparalleled, and these three south-west states boast the highest concentration of national parks in the nation. For these reasons, my partner and I had come to tour this 'wild west' region of America.
The early settlers had done it the hard way with their canvas-covered wagons, but we were doing the easier way, seated comfortably behind the wheel of an all American 'El Monte' RV. Recreational vehicles are as American as the stars and stripes, and their popularity is evident by the sheer number of facilities available, making 'on the road' travel an experience of pure freedom.
It took two days driving from San Francisco before we cleared California's Sierra Nevada Mountains and reached Death Valley. At 250 feet below sea level, it is the lowest elevation in North America. As the RV pulled back on the hot desert air, the miles fell behind in a spectacle of dazzling white salt pans, rock-strewn plains, and windblown sand dunes. Wildflowers swept our view with swathes of gold and paw prints in the cracked earth told of desert fox and coyote. With a quick blast on the air-con, cruise control activated and a feel-good beat on the radio, we move on effortlessly into Death Valley - one of the hottest places on earth.
The best views over Death Valley are to be experienced from Dante's View. From an elevation of 1670 meters in the Amargosa Ranges, the shimmering salt pans and sweeping sand dunes span out in a long corridor hemmed in by the bare bones of the mountains. Like looking down into a fiery cauldron, this is as good a view of hell as I can imagine. In 1913, the highest temperature recorded here reached 57 degrees Celsius.
Skipping across the bottom of Nevada, we timed our passing through Las Vegas for twilight. It was an outrageous over the top experience - miles of pulsating neon signs, gaudy Disney-like buildings, and drive-in marriage ceremonies. You couldn't get a greater contrast to the large scale natural attractions to follow.
Somewhere across the Arizona state line, down 'Historic Route 66', was the largest and deepest hole in the earth - the mother of all canyons - the Grand Canyon. Over 250 miles long and three miles deep, it took two days hiking along the west rim taking in the postcard views, and a strenuous descent into the canyon past millions of years of glowing sedimentary rock, before we could even begin to comprehend its immensity.
Situated 230 miles east of the Grand Canyon and located within the Navajo Indian Reservation Lands, is Canyon De Chelly National Park. It was here that we had our first glimpse into the world of the prehistoric pueblo people. The Navajo who now live here call them 'the Anasazi - the ancient ones'. An easy hike leads down to the floor of the picturesque canyon and the Whitehouse pueblo ruins. Built against an overhang of canyon walls and
surrounded by Navajo fields of maze, the Anasazi ruins are simply stunning. Why the Anasazi left their canyon homes long ago no one knows, but the mystery still lingers on today.
The following days epitomized the amazing diversity of experiences you can have on a RV tour of America's south-west. We examined dinosaur footprints alongside the highway and witnessed trees frozen to stone in the Petrified Forest National Park. Across the border in New Mexico, we explored the streets of historic Santa Fe, visited the Indian pueblo village of Taos (where adobe homes date back to the 1400s), and poked our noses into D.H. Lawrence's ranch house. In the north west of New Mexico, Chaco Historical National Park is one of the best archaeological sites in the south-west.
The ruins consist of several great compound houses, each with a maze of rooms and ceremonial round kivas of intricate masonry. Chaco has a sense of timelessness and spirituality that is almost palpable. From Chaco we headed the RV back into Arizona, and hit Hwy 163 to Monument Valley, a red sand desert region on the Arizona Utah border – known for the towering sandstone mesas
and buttes of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park and some of the most scenic driving in the entire south west region.
John Ford first brought Hollywood to Monument Valley in 1939 with the classic movie Stagecoach starring John Wayne and introduced millions of moviegoers to the beauty of this arid corner of Arizona and Utah. So taken was he with the area that he went on to make a total of nine movies including: My Darling Clementine (1946), She Wore A Yellow Ribbon (1949), The Searchers (1956), How the West Was Won (1962), and Cheyenne Autumn (1964). As John Wayne put it so rightly, "TV you can make on the back lot, but for the big screen, for the real outdoor drama, you have to do it where God put the West." Not all movies shot at Monument Valley have been westerns, including Easy Rider, A Space Odyssey, Thelma and Louise, Forrest Gump and Back to the Future 3 to name a few.
Crossing over into Utah, our three-week trip was nearing an end, and Utah isn't a state to run short of time in. The landscape is striking at every turn with snow-capped mountains, timbered plateaus, rugged and colorful canyons, deep lakes, and cactus-
covered deserts. Here you can see that Mother Nature was feeling especially generous when she dished out magical places.
With heavy hearts we bypassed Canyonlands and Bryce Canyon to spend our last days in and around Arches National Park, a region which boasts over 2,000 natural stone arches - the greatest density on earth. It was fitting that the last hike of our tour turned out to be the best. This is a famous trail, leading to Utah's best known and best loved arch, the one that appears on every Utah car number plate and in countless American television commercials - Delicate Arch.
Walking on the 2.4 km trail, we are rewarded by panoramic views to the east over the snowcapped La Sal Mountains, shimmering like an icy hallucination above the desert. When we first spy the infamous arch, nature has gift wrapped it for us, framing it in the sweeping span of Frame Arch. Straddling a ridge of glowing red sandstone, between an ancient pothole and a sheer cliff face, Delicate Arch literally has the power of presence to stop you in your tracks.
Water and ice, extreme temperatures and millions of years are responsible for this masterpiece. We scramble up into the shade of Frame Arch and find a spot to sit and give justice to the view. The aura of time and silence is tangible. It reverberates off the red rock walls all around, like the tremors of an earthquake that are felt but not heard making us both feel dizzy with its grandeur. I am not sure how long we've been sitting here in awe, when suddenly a fellow walker moves into view to stand at the foot of Delicate Arch, providing scale and putting everything in perspective. The effect provides a superb grand finale to a simply amazing journey.
PLANNING YOUR RV TRIP: Without a doubt, an El Monte RV is the best way to road-tour in America. With air conditioning, microwave, fridge, generator, shower, toilet, and full-sized beds, you get to enjoy all the freedom of a life on the road without compromising any creature comforts. El Monte RV will provide pick-ups from either L.A or San Francisco airports to their RV depots. Alternatively, you can skip California, fly to Las Vegas, and begin your trip in the south west. One-way drop-offs can also be arranged. Three to four weeks will give you ample time to explore the south west region.
BY DIANE TIERNEY
Step aboard Virgin Voyages’ adultsonly cruise ship Valiant Lady and within minutes you’ll realize this is not your daddy’s cruise ship. From decor that’s an Instagram feast to hammocks on your cabin balcony, this is cruising that delightfully disrupts the norm.
The ship has about 20 restaurants and eateries – and no main dining room or traditional buffet like other ships. Meals are superb thanks to a collective of Michelin star chefs. The entertainment is also riveting with shows that have acrobats performing death-defying feats, extravagant parties and pop-up entertainment.
Owned by British billionaire Richard Branson, superstar Jennifer Lopez is now Chief Entertainment and Lifestyle Officer and the line (which will have four ships by the end of 2023) has won awards for Best Dining, Best Nightlife and Best for LGBTQ+ travelers.
The 2,700-passenger Valiant has two shallow pools that are more for socializing than swimming, several hot tubs and a variety of seating such as cozy cabanas (open and private), low-slung curved sofas, large sunbeds and swinging chairs and hammocks in red, purple, blue and white.
Music is in the DNA of Virgin’s history, so a DJ is usually playing at the main pool which can get loud and crowded, so the smaller and warmer Wellbeing pool is a quieter option. There are also quiet outdoor lounge areas at the bow and aft.
Fitness is visually encouraged with a bright red running track called the Runway, but it’s often empty except as stunning photo-op. Below is an outdoor boxing ring, punching bag, basketball court, teeter-totter and exercise stations. If you get hot, stand under one of the outdoor drenching buckets and pull the chain.
Another popular photo-op spot is the Net – a huge catamaran-style net at the aft on Deck 16 that you can walk (or crawl) across to see the dizzying views of the ocean below.
The Galley, open 24 hours a day, is similar to a traditional buffet but instead, it’s organized into about eight eateries including an all-day breakfast. You order from a waiter and are served, but there are a few grab-and-go options like sushi if want to eat elsewhere.
For finer dining there is The Wake (steakhouse), Razzle Dazzle (signature restaurant with vegetarian options), Pink Agave (Mexican), The Test Kitchen, Gunbae (Korean barbecue), Dock House (Mediterranean), and Extra Virgin (Italian).
Casual eateries include Sun Club Café (Hawaiian), the Pizza Place, Social Club Diner, Lick Me Till Ice Cream and the Sweet Side.
Room service costs $5 and is delivered in unique canvas tote bags with picnic-like dishes and carafes. The unique style suits a casual breakfast on your balcony while swinging in your hammock.
Virgin also doesn’t have traditional cruise ships drinks packages but instead offers reasonable prices such as USD $5 beers, $9 cocktails and $10 wines (tip included). However, you can purchase a pre-paid $300 Bar Tab to get an extra $50 bonus (only available pre-cruise). Beverages such as water, juice, pop, drip coffee and tea are free.
Enjoy ten gorgeous bars and lounges of which a few are inside restaurants for pre-dinner drinks to add to the boutique hotel vibe. Most popular are the Sip Lounge (champagne), Draught Haus, On the Rocks (martinis and cocktails), Loose Cannon, Dock House bar, Aquatic Club, Gym & Tonic (bar and healthy juices), Sun Club (bar and frozen drinks) and Red Bar at the theatre. And if you want champagne, open the Virgin app and shake your phone. A bottle of Moet will be delivered to wherever you are located. (Don’t worry, there’s also a cancel button.)
Instead of typical Broadway-style shows, Virgin puts a twist on performances and stage setup. The show “Duel Reality” features incredible acrobats who climb, swing, spin and tumble from poles, swings and a giant teeter-totter – in street wear. Jugglers and hula hoop performers are equally talented. The theatre is set up like a stadium with the audience divided into two opposing teams to complement the show’s theme.
The “Untitled Danceshow Partything” is a club scene dance party in a theatre without seats. The audience stands around the stage watching the performers who jump on and off the stage.
“It’s a Ship Show” is a spectacular dinner theatre show with amazing acrobats, jugglers, roller skaters and singers, hosted by a comedian. The show is featured in The Manor, a two-story bar space named after Branson’s first recording studio.
Pop-up entertainment and impromptu parties occur throughout the ship. “Scarlet Night” is the main party (most people wear red) and the top deck is decorated with a massive inflatable octopus that’s wider than the pool.
A glitzy casino, fun arcade, tattoo parlor called Squid Ink, upscale shops and gorgeous spa and gym round out your options of things to see and do.
Staterooms range from 105 to 2,147 square feet including rooms for solo travelers. Rock star and Mega Rock star suites feature Hollywoodstyle glam, music memorabilia, vinyl record players and breaking the norm again, outdoor balcony showers. These suite guests also have access to a top-deck lounge called Richard’s Rooftop for an upscale experience at the bow and private parties.
Virgin’s Caribbean cruises often include a day at their private Bimini Beach Club in the Bahamas. There are two massive pools full of fun inflatables, a pristine beach and
plenty of places to relax in the sun or shade. At sundown, campfires are lit inside huge wrought iron spheres adding extra glow to Virgin’s already warm and friendly atmosphere.
Nestled in the heart of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives which is the world’s largest coral state, offers travelers brilliant turquoise beaches, crystal clear blue skies, colorful marine life, and majestic palm trees swaying in the warm ocean breeze. The Maldives is the perfect choice for an idyllic beach getaway, offering the ultimate dream of luxury and tranquility.
The Maldives encompasses over 1,000 coral islands situated in what people consider the most beautiful ocean in the world, and the most romantic location on earth. Islands in the Maldives are tiny, and typically home to just one hotel allowing vacationers to embrace a truly unique island paradise.
The destination offers over 160 resorts, the majority of which sit on their own islet complete with stateof-the-art spas, and fabulous restaurants among lush jungles and pristine beaches. Great steps have been made toward sustainability with most hotels having their own distinctive conservation projects.
Whether you are looking to explore, spend time as a family, or enjoy a romantic escape, there is something awaiting in the Maldives for all.
Imagine a place where everything and anything is available at any time, anywhere you want. Meet Kudadoo, a private island with 15 intimate villas featuring all-inclusive offerings for its guests that cover everything from unlimited spa treatments, to champagne on tap, to delightful culinary creations, to unlimited leisure and wellness activities.
Guests can laze on their own spacious deck with pool, sofa swing, outdoor dining area and access to the lagoon. Venture to The Retreat where you will find the main swimming pool, a restaurant with wine cellar and cheese room, a bar and beautiful spa. The Retreat has been smartly designed to maximize natural air flow, with a roof that incorporates 984 solar panels enabling the entire resort to be purely powered by the sun. This is the only fully solar powered private island in the Maldives.
A private yoga session, a massage in your incredible villa, or a romantic meal in a location of your choice, the answer is yes as your personal butler will ensure your experiences are second to none.
Located on the private island of Lankanfushi, this resort is a 20 minute boat ride from the airport. At Lankanfushi Island your private fantasy comes to life. Here guests can design their dream getaway whether they are looking for quality family time, an escape from reality, or perhaps a range of aquatic adventures. Staff go above and beyond to exceed expectations and personalize every encounter for their guests.
Beautifully arranged in the middle of a sparkling, turquoise lagoon, Gili Lankanfushi’s Private Reserve reigns supreme in luxury, privacy, and seclusion. Sprawled across multi-level tiers, this is truly a destination of dreams. Enter the expansive villa and explore its sophisticated open-air interiors and amenities complete with an infinity swimming pool, spacious sundecks, a couple’s spa pavilion with a sauna and steam room, an air-conditioned gymnasium, cinema, bar, and even a water slide that drops into the sea. There is also a private boat is assigned to you to come and go as you please. Enjoy the elegant spa and yoga programs, as well as fabulous cuisine.
This private luxury resort in the Laccadive Sea is accessible only by seaplane from Velana International Airport. Overlooking the alluring waves of the Indian Ocean, the resort offers 33 on land, and 44 over water delightful villas all equipped with top end amenities. Beachfront villas have sea views. Elegant over water villas and suites provide living rooms and direct sea access. Lavish three-bedroom beachside estates overlooking the Indian Ocean include kitchens as well as a private gym and personal concierge. There are six restaurants and bars offering sophisticated culinary fare, an outdoor pool, and a fitness center, along with a kids’ club, a water sports center, and a chic spa.
The resort offers an unforgettable holiday experience, the perfect blend of relaxation and adventure! Spend your days marveling at colorful sea life while snorkeling or scuba diving in the spectacular coral reef. Feel a rush like no other as you soar through the air on a para-sailing ride above crystal-clear waters, or take long walks along its pristine beaches. A paradise awaits!
The Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi opened July 2019, and is considered one of the best places to stay in the Maldives. Due to the resort’s proximity to Malé, the main island where Velana International Airport is located, guests arrive in style by boat on one of the resort’s lavish yachts. There are 119 villas spanning the three connected islands offering every room type for every type of traveler.
In addition to traditional over water and beach accommodations, the resort also has a hybrid category called the Reef villas where guests enter from the beach while the outdoor deck hangs above the water, providing to their guests the best of both worlds. These villas come with their own private pool, oversized tubs in the bathroom as well as a private dining gazebo. The over water villas also feature hammocks and a floor made of glass so that you can marvel at the ocean at any point of the day. Your own appointed concierge will be available to handle all your requests throughout your visit.
This modern, minimalist paradise is the ultimate for an active luxury vacation. The fitness center is open 24 hours a day and offers personal training and yoga classes, as well as Beach Bootcamp and boxing classes.
This exceptional resort uses a classic minimalist, curved design to accentuate the beautifully turquoise Maldivian waters and its natural marine life.
Spread over a trio of islands, this 100-villa property welcomes its guests to truly embrace island life. Set above azure waters or snuggled along beach covers, these villas blend island living with modern design. Distorting the lines between indoors and out, each villa offers water views, an infinity pool, a sundeck, and a personal butler.
The resort itself is intimate in size with the majority of the restaurants located on Culinary Island. From Italian flavors to dinner under the stars, the gastronomic possibilities are endless.
Whatever the reason to visit the Maldives, the experience is sure to be one to remember forever. Whether you relax on the beaches, swim with the sharks, dive into the Coral Reef, relish the cuisine, engage in the many water sports, relax with spa treatments, or just breathe the beautiful calm and tranquility – all of these things will be yours when you visit one of the over 160 beautiful resorts. The choice is yours, and the choices are endless.
BY: STEVE DRAKE
Visiting British Columbia in the springtime is a truly beautiful experience. This coastal destination comes alive with vibrant colors and pleasant temperatures, making it a great place to spend a few days, Easter long weekend or Spring Break. The days are noticeably longer with more sunshine, allowing more time to take full advantage of the many attractions. We only had two days, and so, armed with a big two-destination bucket list, we made the most of our time here.
After an early breakfast, we decided to explore Vancouver on two wheels with rental bikes – what a great way to see everything without the bother of public transit or parking. I recommend a ride through Stanley Park to admire its 500 acres of lush greenery. Other bucket list must-do’s include kayaking in False Creek or Burrard Inlet, and exploring Granville Island’s local art galleries, pubs, and eateries.
Later that same day, we headed over to Canada Place and took in the state-of-the-art FlyOver Canada attraction; a virtual reality experience that takes you high above the most spectacular sights of Canada – from coast to coast to coast. The ride starts over the snow-capped Rocky Mountains in British Columbia before heading eastward through Alberta and Saskatchewan’s prairies, over Manitoba’s northern lakes and into Ontario’s countryside. Then over Quebec City's old-world charm and around Nova Scotia’s rugged coastline before finishing in majestic Newfoundland. What a way to see Canada!
Only few block from FlyOver Canada, located street-side at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel, we settled in to enjoy some of the best gelato on Canada’ west coast at Motoretta Gelato. This awardwinning gelateria uses only the finest ingredients to craft Italian-style artisanal gelato, sorbet and granita. There were so many unique flavors! We opted for Madagascar Vanilla, Bourbon Whiskey, and Matcha Green Tea – all made in small batches with tons of flavor. Motoretta Gelato serves up ten (rotating) flavors daily and offer dairy free and vegan options.
On this trip we decided to make a quick day trip to Victoria, BC on Vancouver Island. Getting to Victoria was so easy with Helijet and the best part, kids fly free with a full fare paying adult. Harbor to harbor, the flight is just 35 minutes and what an amazing way to see some of the beautiful Gulf Islands. You don’t fly super high so if you’re lucky, you may spot a pod of Orca whales! The heliport is an easy 2-minute drive via their shuttle (or 10-minute scenic walk) to downtown Victoria. In no time at all, we were standing in front of the BC Parliament buildings, and marveling at the historic Fairmont Empress Hotel.
Visiting Victoria, British Columbia is an unforgettable experience. This beautiful capital city of Canada’s westernmost province is filled with charm and rich history. We spent the whole day walking the cobblestoned streets, took a water taxi tour of the inner harbor, experienced Canada’s oldest Chinatown, devoured fish and chips at the world famous seafood eatery by the seaside Red Fish Blue Fish, and stopped in to meet Woolly the Mammoth at the Royal BC Museum.
At the end of a very full day in Victoria, we walked back along the waterfront to Helijet, hopped on the helicopter and were back at our hotel in Vancouver in time for a late dinner.
British Columbia is an exciting destination any time of year but is extra special in springtime. In Vancouver and especially in Victoria, the bright pink cherry blossoms are everywhere and if it happen to visit on a windy day, the cities will rain with delicate petals. It is pure coastal magic.
BY: ANNIE HENNESSEY
I don’t know if you grew up with B.B. King frequently playing in your home, but I did. When I was offered the chance to travel to Memphis, Tennessee - my first trip to any southern U.S. state. - I was floored. I knew very little about Memphis, save for that it was the home of B.B. King, Elvis, Isaac Hayes, and Young Dolph, a deeply historical city, and is widely credited as the home of the blues and soul and as the birthplace of rock n’ roll. Let me tell you why I’d never have chosen anywhere other than Memphis, Tennessee, as my introductory visit to the southern U.S.
I stayed at the Hyatt Centric Beale Street Memphis - the first and only hotel on the city’s famous Beale Street. The location was perfect in terms of proximity to Memphis highlights I wanted to explore. The 227-room hotel opened in April 2021 and has a music theme throughout the property with touches like hallway carpets with patterns that mimic sound waves, and light fixtures resembling treble clef notes. My room was huge with floor to ceiling windows and a modern, dapper design. On the main floor of the hotel is CIMAS Restaurant, which serving me the best Croque Madame of my life. The
space is airy and comfortable - great for working on your or relaxing with an adult beverage.
Nodding to Memphis’ musical heritage, the wallpaper at Beck & Call - the hotel’s rooftop bar with a wide, striking view of the Mississippi River - resembles the acoustic foam of a recording studio and displays giant photos of some of Memphis’ most prominent musicians like Isaac Hayes and Yo Gotti. The cocktail menu was crafted by award-winning mixologists (my recommendation is the smoked Old Fashioned). The whiskey, bourbon and scotch selection is unmatched with almost
40 options. Reservations are recommended as Beck & Call is, a popular spot between the views and the incredible drink selection.
I didn’t realize until I got there and walked around a bit that Memphis feels like a small town, despite being Tennessee’s largest city. Walking along Main Street feels like a quaint blend of long-time and newer shops and restaurants, and has a vintage trolley car that I’d planned to hop on once for the experience but unfortunately did not find time. I did delight in seeing it pass however, and smiled like a kid with a new train set.
The National Civil Right Museum was without a doubt the most memorable and poignant part of my trip. The Museum is located at the former Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated on April 4, 1968. To say that The Lorraine Civil Rights Museum Foundation has done an extraordinary job putting together a thorough, detailed, compelling walking history of the civil rights movement, from African slave ships to Barack Obama’s election, could not be stressed enough. I went to the museum two days in a row and would go twenty more. As much as anyone may think they know about
the uphill battle that black people in America have always faced, you will still leave having learned plenty. Visiting the NCRM should be compulsory for anyone visiting America, let alone Tennessee.
Sun Studios, the “birthplace of rock n’ roll” and now mini museum, had me a little misty at points. The history held in this relatively small building is palpable. Elvis was discovered here, legends like U2, B.B. King, and Roy Orbison recorded music here. Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Carl Perkins were commemorated on the now iconic “Million Dollar Quartet”
in the ground floor studio. The tour you’ll take is stacked with extremely rare music memorabilia from the studio’s 1950s and beyond.
Hyatt Centric Beale Street is a ten minute walk from the popular, bustling section of Beale Street, a National Historic Landmark. Beale Street spans three blocks stacked with live music bars, restaurants, and smaller shops. I of course went to B.B. King’s Blues Club, bringing my blues and soul singer mother with me in spirit. Divercitymusic performs at B.B.’s two nights a week and gave a lively, engaging performance on our visit. It was exactly the energy you’d hope for from a Memphis institution like B.B. King’s.
Memphis folks love their BBQ. There are a few highly recommended spots around town. Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous, Central BBQ, Cozy Corner, are a few that seem to have the most loyal patrons who will happily point you towards their favorite. Established in 1948, Rendezvous is as eclectic a basement restaurant and takeout spot as you could ask for. Their dry rub ribs are amazing, and coleslaw that’s easily one of the best a coleslaw devotee like me has ever had. Walking around the large, busy space, I took in as much of the archives and historical objects-filled walls as possible. I came upon a framed photo of Young Dolph and a man I assumed was one of the restaurant
workers. The particular worker landed right next to me to grab something from a cutlery table in front of us. “That’s you!” I said. “Yeah! Ain’t that somethin?” he said. A perfect little kismet moment.
To round out my Memphis visit, I went to a Memphis Tigers game, of which the large, boisterous band were the highlight. I went on a riverboat dinner and music cruise, biked around Shelby Farms Park (showcasing beautiful on site buffalo and refreshing, greenery-filled routes to bike or walk along), I ate breakfast at Sunrise Memphis, a colorful, local diner, where I sipped on Poppy Pils pilsner and Prickly Paradise fruited sour at one of the
city’s newest breweries, Grind City Brewing. I ate at Ecco on Overton Park, a Mediterranean-inspired eatery in Memphis midtown. Though it was my first time in the southern U.S., Memphis seems like no other place in the region. The history, rich culture and unruffled, local feel seem to have a mood very much its own. There are places you visit that are fun and make you smile when you think of them, and there are places that wallop you in the chest with its character. Memphis has something very special that my simple words could never do justice to.
Escape the Crowds In Rome With a Dip in Lake Bracciano
BY: TOM JAMES
All roads lead to Rome for travelers with an interest in classical civilization, but it’s undeniable that in the summer heat, touring all those sun-drenched ancient sites on a Roman itinerary can become more than a little enervating. At that point it’s time to do as the Romans do and head out of town.
Just 30 minutes away by suburban train north from the city, the Lago Di Bracciano is an idyllic escape, a place to cool down, shake the city’s dust out of the system and enjoy the pleasing novelty of swimming in the crater of a volcano.
For the visitor who has spent a few days in Rome, the most immediate contrast will be the lack of noise. Because Bracciano is an important source of Rome’s drinking water, motorboats and jet-skis are not permitted, so there is a pleasing absence of cool young Italians zipping around in mirror shades creating an unholy noise.
Instead, Bracciano is a place for families, or for the more athletic kind of canoeist or kayaker. Essentially the choices for activities on the water amount to hiring a craft for an energetic exploration of the volcano caldera, or opting to pack a rowing boat with a laden picnic basket for a relaxed lunch in a secluded tree-lined stretch of shore.
The lake is part of a wider park, the Parco Naturale di BraccianoMartignano, which has been thoughtfully developed as a space with facilities for both the energetic and the restful visitor. There are carefully marked cycling and hiking trails that range from the
challenging to the gentle, with opportunities to admire the local flora and bird life. There are also plenty of shady benches from which to enjoy the views.
Above the lake, the genteel town of Bracciano is dominated by the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi, a picturesque medieval edifice that is understandably popular for Roman high society weddings. Hollywood A-listers Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes chose the venue for their wedding celebration, ensuring it has been featured regularly in glossy magazine spreads around the world. Visitors can take a tour of the castle and admire the period furnishings, along with a museum crammed with the usual collections of daunting medieval weaponry and armor.
By contrast, the town itself is a tranquil and unassuming settlement. The most attractive area is an unchanged medieval warren of alleys in the shade of the castle, topped by a wooded viewpoint with benches and picnic tables, the ideal spot for a snack, with great views over the full expanse of the lake.
The town’s oldest church, the Chiesa di San Liberato has an 11th-century bell tower, possibly the oldest surviving tower in the province of Lazio. The church has some beautiful frescoes and attractive gardens. Locals tend to gather in the cafes around the nearby Piazza IV Novembre, where there is also a small civic museum tracing the history of Bracciano and the area’s former status as a playground for Roman aristocracy.
Dining options for visitors focus on the relaxed trattorie by the lakeside. These put an emphasis on local
produce, particularly the fish and freshwater eels from the lake, simply grilled and served with salads. Menus also make great use of game, nuts, olives, wild mushrooms, and vegetables from the wider region, but dishes tend to be uncomplicated and inexpensive, certainly compared to the capital.
Upscale weddings aside, Bracciano is not a stylish or fashionable
destination. That’s part of the appeal, the unpretentious welcome it extends to families from the city and its celebration of the simple pleasures of the outdoors. For any visitor tired of jostling for a selfie on the Spanish Steps or gazing in dismay at the crowds thronging the Trevi Fountain, Bracciano is the obvious escape.
Creole cooking is a labor of love, with many dishes taking a whole day to prepare. Enjoy the traditional dishes served up in the restaurants of the French Quarter or take a cooking class to learn how to prepare them in your own kitchen. Whatever you do, make sure you try this delicious and unique cuisine while in New Orleans – you won’t forget it!
