T R A V E L
O F T E N . L I V E
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T R A V E L
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EUROPE’S UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES THE CANADIAN ROCKIES
RIDING THE LUXURY RAILS | BEING ERICA IN JASPER inside this issue | golfing the british isles | discovering south africa | photographing rio de janeiro SPRING/SUMMER 2022
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06 16 A History Tour 10 In Magical Europe
BY: ANDREW MARSHALL Come along on a whistle-stop tour to some of Europe’s legendary UNESCO World Heritage Sites
columns 28 Hotel Spotlight
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44 Travel Gear 48 Travel Bites
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78 #WheretoNext
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BY STEVE DRAKE Luxury train travel through the Canadian Rocky Mountains
10 Jasper National Park
BY ERIN KARPLUK A local’s guide to all that makes Jasper so magical
30 Luxury Retreats in South Africa BY DANIELLA SCHOEMAN Follow South Africa’s scenic garden route to these luxury properties
38 Land of the Scots BY MICHAEL LINDSAY A storybook trip to the Scottish rolling hills, city history and the one o’clock gun
Contents
6 Travel by Train
52 Photographic Journey
BY ALICIA LEBRETON This passionate eye shares a unique view of Rio de Janeiro
64 Great Castles of Europe
BY ZUNAIRA GHAZAL Explore five of the most visited (and fascinating) castles in Europe
70 Golf Travel to the British Isles BY ANDREW MARSHALL This issue’s favorite links that will have you packing your clubs
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Journey Through the Clouds
A Rocky Mountaineer Experience BY: STEVE DRAKE
There's something about traveling by train that feels luxurious and refined. Maybe it's the journey itself, or perhaps it's the old-world atmosphere of a train car. Either way, a Rocky Mountaineer trip is an experience that will never be forgotten. With stunning views of the Canadian Rockies, miles of pristine wilderness, and delicious meals prepared fresh on board, this is one vacation option where you want for nothing, but have all the time in the world to take in the scenery, disconnect from a busy life and settle in with your thoughts. This is my experience with Rocky Mountaineer...
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Vancouver to Kamloops
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DAY
My day started with a quick ride to the Rocky Mountaineer station, followed by a genuinely warm welcome as you prepare to board for the first time. The flags were flying and the red carpet was rolled out, and I thought it was a most fitting start and the promise of a most glorious journey ahead. Once aboard, the attentive staff wasted no time making me feel at home. Juices and light snacks were offered and one look out the window assured me that promise would soon become a reality. The interior of our train car was classic and elegant; at once comfortable but not over the top. Later, as we moved into the wilderness of the Canadian Rockies, it occurred to me that this understated elegance was perfectly suited for its natural surroundings.
Leaving the station, the train began its trek through the beautiful Fraser Valley. Lush green farmland surrounded us on all sides, and as I settled into the plush recliner seat, the rhythmic “clickety clack” encompassed me in a sense of calm.
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As we traveled further into the incredible heart of British Columbia, the province began to reveal a more rugged terrain. The hills became much steeper and not as rolling. The metamorphic rocks that make up most of the Rockies began to show themselves and it was awe inspiring to witness from the perspective of the train. The scenery was so breathtaking, that I realized the morning quickly slipped into afternoon and it was lunchtime. Each Goldleaf car has its own dining room directly below the glass-dome coach. Elegant plated meals were prepared and served, using the finest fresh, local ingredients. With lunch behind us, landscapes changed again. This time, the green valleys and rainforest canopies were replaced by an arid desert like terrain. Yes, Canada has a desert. These new views indicated that we were approaching Kamloops, where we spent the night. Disembarking and the hotel transfer were painless, and my luggage was waiting for me in my hotel room. Impeccable service.
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Kamloops to Jasper
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After a comfortable sleep, it was back on the train for another day’s adventure. Lush forests welcomed us this morning, and got increasingly dense as we headed towards Jasper. I took the pastoral views as permission to just sit back, relax and take it all in. The morning and early afternoon, that included a hearty breakfast and sumptuous lunch, slipped by peacefully. I spent a lot of time on the outdoor viewing platform. It felt like I was right there in the surroundings and a great place to take unobstructed photographs and video. As day two drew to a close and we approached Jasper National Park, Mount Robson came into full view. This is the highest point in the Canadian Rockies and towers over the town of Jasper. With my Rocky Mountaineer journey completed, I took the opportunity to do a little sightseeing and really get to know Jasper. If you go: Don’t be surprised if that familiar “clickety clack” remains in your head, for this seems to be the way the rails like to beckon you back.
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Postcard Perfect Jasper, Alberta
BY: ERIN KARPLUK As an actress, I travel a lot for work. When asked where I’m from, I’m pretty quick to answer “You know the spectacular postcards of the Canadian Rockies? That’s where I was born and raised.” Most people have heard of Banff, but I quickly chime in that my home town Jasper, and is equally if not more beautiful, and still quaint enough not to have a Starbucks or McDonalds. Not biased at all. Jasper with a population of only 5000, has hosted millions of visitors. My graduating class was only 32 students. Needless to say, while I knew I wanted to be an actress at an early age, there was no acting club or classes, so I happily spent my formative years playing hockey on the frozen lakes, hiking, fishing, mountain biking, and skiing instead. I worked at the Chaba (the local theatre), helped my Mom run our B&B, and greeted trains for the Rocky Mountaineer. These early jobs fostered my love for both the entertainment industry and hosting visitors in our beautiful National Park. I am very happy to share my absolute ‘must do’s’ in Jasper.
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Maligne Lake & Canyon. When I die, I wish to have my ashes scattered on this lake.
I truly think once you pass Spirit Island and view the second half of the lake facing Mount Paul you are in God’s Country. Maligne is the largest naturally formed, glacial fed lake in the Canadian Rockies. It’s 22km long and as deep as 97m. I’d recommend making the trip to Spirit Island which is arguably the most photographed spot in the Rockies. The Island is a spiritual place for the Stoney Nakoda First Nation who believe the mountains are physical representations of their ancestors. If you camp or fish do yourself a favor and book in at Coronet Creek site for a couple nights. You must reserve almost a year ahead of time. My brother, a former fishing guide, has taken me on numerous trips here where we’ve caught up to 60 Rainbow and Brooke Trout. These are mostly catch and release except for a fresh trout lunch. You can kayak, canoe, take a cruise boat, or a guided fishing trip depending on your interest. On your way down from Maligne stop at Medicine Lake for brilliant photo ops. Medicine is a geological anomaly, and depending what time of year you go it can either be 7km long and full or completely dissipated into the underground systems. It’s kind of like a natural bathtub that fills and drains depending on the season. Maligne Canyon is the last stop on the way down, and it’s the deepest canyon in Jasper National Park. Be sure to walk/hike the 6 bridges for incredible towering views of the canyon and river. In the winter the canyon is almost more spectacular as you can do a guided ice walk directly along the canyon’s frozen floor among the icy caverns. The trip to Maligne Lake and Canyon is a great chance to see bear, sheep, or moose, particularly in the early morning. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 11
Keeping in theme with winter months, Jasper’s Marmot Basin boasts some of the most incredible skiing in the Canadian Rockies. It has 91 named runs on four mountain faces with 3,000 vertical feet of drop and seven lifts. I spent the majority of my winter days growing up cruising these slopes and look forward to hitting these slopes every season. The Paradise Chalet makes a mean virgin Caesar that can be enjoyed by the outdoor fire pit. I’ve also taken a liking to tour skiing and cross country in recent years, and can report that Bald Hills and Moab Lake are my two favorites. I grew up playing Bantam hockey with the boys, and while my NHL dreams were dashed when my height peaked at 5’4, I still enjoy skating on the frozen lakes every winter. You can skate outdoors at either Pyramid Lake or on Mildred Lake by the Jasper Park Lodge. There are large loops cleared around each of these lakes with hockey rinks in the middle. Best winter exercise is doing 10 laps in the fresh crisp air and then savoring a creamy hot chocolate by the outdoor fire pit provided by the JPL. Pyramid Lake also offers horse powered sleigh rides in the winter, an adventure my family and I often enjoy at Christmas. Jasper Park Lodge is an absolute must visit. This Fairmont resort is nestled on the bank of Lac Beauvert on the edge of one of Canada’s most prestigious golf courses. The cabins are beautiful with a rustic mountain feel and the grounds are stunning. I’ve been to countless weddings and functions there, and they are always generous to host the Jasper High School graduation banquets as well. The award winning Spa is blissful and you can spend hours in the heated outdoor pool and hot 12 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
tub, eucalyptus steam, sauna, and health club. Since I was a kid I have loved rolling in the snow in my swimsuit then jumping back in the pool which I can assure you gets the blood moving.. The Emerald Lounge is my favorite place to enjoy happy hour and dining. The deep fried mushrooms are unreal! It’s worth the trip just to take in the view of the turquoise lake, Mount Edith Cavell, and Whistlers Mountain. In the summer months paddle boats, kayaks, and canoes can be rented. The glacier water is so clear you can see straight through to the bottom. At 2263 meters, the view from the Jasper SkyTram is the best way to put the park into perspective. Whistlers Mountain offers stunning panoramic views and adventure from March-October. In the summer you can enjoy an alpine hike at the top where you will hear the whistle of the Hoary Marmot, and in the winter you can enjoy snowshoeing the trails. I did my first snowshoeing adventure this spring. It is much easier to traverse the slopes than with standard winter boots. I’ve also hiked from the bottom of Whistlers to the peak. It took us 4 hours, we grabbed lunch at the Summit Restaurant and then took the tram ride down. Excellent adventure! My all time favorite hike is a 42km backcountry loop into the Tonquin Valley where the Ramparts mountain range is magnificent. I also enjoyed climbing the summit of Opal Peak up at Maligne Lake which is an intense hike battling scree at the top. The Valley Of The Five Lakes, Old Fort Point, and the Jasper Discovery Trail are shorter more popular day hikes closer to town.
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A great day trip up to Mount Edith Cavell will not disappoint. It is the most prominent peak from Jasper and has a wonderful hike where you can do to the Alpine and Meadows trail in summer and fall. This hike is one of the rare chances you will see a caribou. The marmots are hilarious and are fun to spot suntanning on rocks. You don’t have to do the full hike to snap a spectacular picture of Angel Glacier. On the way down a great excursion is seeing Athabasca Falls for a short 1km trail hike and beautiful picture. Close by is Horseshoe Lake if you feel like (very cold) cliff jumping. My favorite swimming although is at Lake Edith and Lake Anette. Both lakes have accessible walks around the perimeter of each and provide stalls to have a picnic and marshmallow roast. When I’m home visiting, I do laps around these lakes almost daily, as it’s the best way for me to re-fill my tea cup when I come home. Also, White Water Rafting is a great way to cool off in the summer and see the park while bobbing in the rapids. Growing up in Jasper provided me with a front row of adventure of the Canadian wilderness, and I only now fully appreciate this. No matter where I go in the world Jasper is still the most magical place I’ve ever been. I can’t wait until the next trip home to explore new and old territory. Enjoy your trip!
Erin Karpluk is a nature lover and award winning actress from Jasper National Park. She is most known for her role as Erica Strange in the highly popular CBC’s series BEING ERICA. Erin can currently be seen in ABC’s A MILLION LITTLE THINGS and Disney Channel’s HOLLY HOBBIE. Erin is currently enjoying shooting RABBIT HOLE opposite Kiefer Sutherland in Toronto for CBS.
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Magical History Tour Europe’s World Heritage Sites BY: ANDREW MARSHALL
A UNESCO World Heritage Site can be defined as “a place like a building, monument, national park, desert or city that is listed by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) because of its special physical or cultural significance.” Currently there are 1154 sites on a list made up of 802 Cultural, 218 Natural and 39 Mixed Properties located throughout 167 States Parties (countries that have adhered to the World Heritage Convention). The Great Wall of China, Grand Canyon, Great Barrier Reef and the Pyramids are among some of the best-known World Heritage Sites. What follows is a journey around Europe to visit some less familiar ones closer to home...
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Frontiers of the Roman Empire – UNITED KINGDOM One of the ‘Frontiers of the Roman Empire’, is a World Heritage Site of epic proportions, marching 73 miles from the Irish Sea to the North Sea, across some of the wildest and most dramatic country in northern England. Built on the orders of Emperor Hadrian between AD 122-128, it is a striking example of a defensive fortification from ancient Rome. Some additional facts about Hadrian’s Wall: the manpower required to construct it was three legions (around 16,000 men); there are 80 milecastles, 160 turrets and 16 forts dotted along its length, with the best preserved example being Housesteads Roman Fort situated near Haltwhistle, among the main concentration of sights in the central section of the wall. A great way to experience this engineering feat up close and enjoy panoramic views along the way is to walk the designated 84-mile Hadrian’s Wall Path, or sections if you don’t have the time to do the full route.
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Alto Douro Wine Region - PORTUGAL A wine of depth, concentration and majestic structure, port is produced from grapes grown on the steep, rocky slopes of Northern Portugal's Upper Douro and its tributaries, and was discovered during the 17th century when two British traders added brandy to preserve the local wine for an Atlantic sea voyage. Vines have been grown on these remote hillsides since pre-Roman times, planted on tiers of walled terraces, the product of centuries of toil and sweat. The River Douro is always present - snaking through abstract patterns of rust colored vines that march up the dizzyingly steep valley sides. Driving through this World Heritage region, especially around harvest time, is pure pleasure with each vista better than the last. Specks of colorfully clad pickers carrying baskets dot the hillsides, heady sweet aromas fill the air and every second vehicle seems to be a tractor pulling a trailer load of precious fruit, destined to be made into port.
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Cornwall & West Devon Mining Landscapes – UNITED KINGDOM During the 18th and early 19th centuries many parts of Cornwall and West Devon were transformed into mining landscapes due to the rapid growth of tin and copper mining techniques. The substantial remains of deep underground mines, engine houses and foundries are testimony to the region's contribution to the world of mining and the Industrial Revolution. Ten areas make up the World Heritage Site, and one of the best is Cornwall's St Just Mining district which can be accessed via the South West Coast Path near the village of St Just. Here, the coastal track skirts past the picturesque engine houses of the Crowns Shaft of Botallack Mine perched far below on a rocky outcrop. The workings once stretched well under the sea and it was said that the miners could hear the boulders rumbling over the seabed above their heads while they worked.
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Giant's Causeway & Causeway Coast – UNITED KINGDOM Legend has it, that Northern Ireland's only World Heritage Site – the spectacular Giant's Causeway, made up of thousands of hexagonal pillars that climb out of the Atlantic Ocean was created by Finn MacCool, an Irish giant that lived along the Antrim Coast. The logical, and less romantic version is that about 60 million years ago there was intense volcanic activity along the coast, after which the lava cooled very quickly. The uneven cooling rate resulted in the basalt contracting into the characteristic hexagonal and octagonal pillar shapes you can see today. The Giant's Causeway may be the star of the Causeway Coast, but other attractions include the stunning Carrick-a-Rede swinging rope bridge that spans a gaping chasm between the coast and a small island used by fishermen, as well as the haunting ruins of 16th-century Dunluce Castle perched precariously on the edge of a rocky headland, and Old Bushmills (established in 1608) the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world.
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Saltaire – UNITED KINGDOM Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001, Saltaire (situated 9 miles west of Leeds and 4 miles north of Bradford), was recognized as one the world's most intact and best-preserved 19th-century industrial villages and for its international influence on town planning. Conceived and built in 1851 by wealthy wool merchant and philanthropist Sir Titus Salt (1803-76). These textile mills, public buildings and workers' housing are constructed in a harmonious classical style of high architectural standards. Neat rows of honey-colored cottages on a hillside above the River Aire and Leeds Liverpool Canal overlook what was once the world's largest factory and today is Saltaire's main drawing-card - Salts Mill. Housed inside this splendid building is a permanent exhibition of art work by Bradford-born artist David Hockney plus an enticing array of independent shops, cafés and restaurants.
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West Norwegian Fjords – NORWAY On the outskirts of Bergen, a beautiful city with a 15th-century waterfront on Norway's west coast, is some of Europe's most spectacular scenery. Awe-inspiring impossibly steep-sided fjords with their jutting fingers of sea that cut shimmering paths into the coastline. Two of these larger-thanlife natural wonders, namely Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord (set 120 km from one another) are among the world's longest, deepest and most scenically outstanding examples and were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2005. Both feature narrow and sheer crystalline rock walls that rise up to 1,400 meters from the Norwegian Sea and extend 500 meters below. Numerous waterfalls tumble into the sea from the forests above, while wooden huts and small farms dot the lower verdant slopes. To really appreciate Geirangerfjord, take Norway's most spectacular scheduled public ferry route between Geiranger and Hellesylt, or for a taste of the fjords, book a 'Norway in a Nutshell' one-day tour from Bergen with Fjord Tours.
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Studley Royal Park & Fountains Abbey - UNITED KINGDOM Any travel itinerary to the north of England would not be complete without visiting Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, two of Yorkshire's most beautiful attractions that make up this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nestled in a secluded wooded valley known as Skelldale, 4 miles south-west of Ripon, are the atmospheric ruins of 12th-century Fountains Abbey, where you can imagine what life would have been like for the devout monks who once lived here. The remains of Britain's largest and most complete Cistercian abbey is the centerpiece of the estate know as Studley Royal, a beautifully preserved 18th-century designed parkland landscape featuring spectacular Georgian water gardens, elegant temples, statues, follies and a deer park; which is home to Red, Fallow and Sika deer that roam freely among ancient oaks, limes and sweet chestnuts.
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Historical Centre of Florence - ITALY Travelers from all over flock to the great Italian city of Florence (Firenze), famous for its Renaissance architecture, the paintings of Botticelli, the sculpture of Michelangelo and the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. There is so much to see and do in this World Heritage city. Some of the major sites include the Piazza della Signoria (the old heart of the city), the Gothic Duomo (one of the world's largest cathedrals with its inspired red-tiled dome), the Uffizi Gallery (home to the planet's greatest collection of Italian Renaissance art), and the 14th-century Ponte Vecchio bridge spanning the Arno River (originally flanked with butchers' shops and today replaced with goldsmiths). For panoramic views of the city, climb a series of steep steps to the Piazzale Michelangelo from the southern bank of the Arno River. To avoid the crowds try to visit Florence out of season with the added bonus of shorter lines at museums and key attractions.
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Stonehenge & Avebury – UNITED KINGDOM Britain's most iconic prehistoric monument and haunting echo of its ancient past, Stonehenge (situated 8 miles north of Salisbury in Wiltshire) is the most architecturally sophisticated stone circle in the world and has been attracting pilgrims, mystics and travelers for the past 5,000 years. The stones are arranged in a particular pattern whose astronomical significance is still being explored, and the debate continues as to how Neolithic people constructed this masterpiece of engineering using only basic tools and methods. Try to time your visit for early morning or late evening when the slanting light and silhouetted stones help to create a mystical aura. Adding to the Stonehenge experience is a visitor center housing museum-quality exhibitions, five Neolithic Houses, a shop and café. Still part of the World Heritage property and situated 25 miles north of Stonehenge is the impressive and less visited Avebury Stone Circle – the largest prehistoric stone circle in the world.
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EOS by SKYCITY Adelaide Australia It’s a new realm of luxury. It’s where a love for the unexpected meets deep local knowledge. It’s where subtle gestures underpin indulgent experiences. A hotel on Adelaide’s skyline that allows travelers to step beyond the everyday. That’s what travel is all about.
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Eos Spa + Wellness Inspired by the pure delight of basking in the soft warmth of the rising sun, Eos Spa + Wellness embodies the calm essence of dawn; a quiet pause from the world; a place to unwind, indulge, and renew.
Casino Excitement and discovery are waiting for guests at SkyCity with a casino that spans two levels that offers slots, roulette, baccarat, blackjack, and poker.
SÔL Rooftop It is a whole other level. Sôl Rooftop looks over the city of Adelaide, providing sophisticated elegance to enjoy day or night. Guests waiting to check in, looking for a quiet moment with awe inspiring view or a lively gathering with friends, SkyCity’s Sôl Rooftop is the pulse of Adelaide’s entertainment scene. skycityadelaide.com.au
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South Africa
Garden Route Luxury Retreats BY: DANIELLA SCHOEMAN
South Africa’s Garden Route - a magnificent 300km stretch of coast starting at the historically significant town of Mossel Bay and ending at the wild rushing mix of water where the Storms River meets the Indian Ocean. Travelers who visit South Africa tend to stick to the fan favorites of Cape Town or the Kruger National Park. As a local, I know they’re missing out on a true gem. You see, the Garden Route offers the best of both worlds: the breathtaking natural beauty, adventure experiences, fine dining and luxury you expect from Cape Town along with the incredible wildlife sightings you get in the Kruger National Park.
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The Garden Route is a vast area that encompasses a wide variety of landscapes such as the towering Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma mountain ranges, lush green forests, and a handful of sleepy coastal towns. Everything about the Garden Route is spectacular and there is just so much to do in this one part of the country. So much awaits visitors that you simply can’t fit it all into one trip. Trust me, I’ve tried. Instead, I’ve returned over and over again and my bucket list just keeps growing. I love this region so much that I recently moved to the Garden Route and we’ve started exploring the surrounding area as a new family of three to get my son used to traveling. To say, that traveling with children requires a shift in your thinking is an understatement. It’s a whole new experience compared to traveling as a couple. Luckily, the Garden Route is the ideal destination for family getaways and there’s no need to compromise on luxury. The following three gorgeous Garden Route retreats deliver all you need for familyfriendly travel while providing ultra-luxe accommodations in unforgettable settings.
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If you’re heading to South Africa for an authentic safari experience, you’ll find it in the Garden Route at Gondwana Game Reserve. Gondwana is close to the port hub of Mossel Bay and is home to the Big 5. Expect some exciting wildlife encounters during your stay. Since it’s a private game reserve you’ll enjoy a ton of perks that you wouldn’t normally get at public game reserves. For example, being able to go off road to get closer to the wildlife during game drives and not having limited time at each sighting. If you want to see a particular animal or need time to get the perfect shot, your ranger will do their best to make it happen for you. Gondwana Game Reserve has a myriad of accommodation options that are spread out across the large reserve. Regardless of which you choose, you can expect either luxurious glamping style open plan suites or large luxury family villas on sprawling estates. We stayed in a 4-bedroom Bush Villa during our stay and absolutely loved the spaciousness and privacy this setting afforded us. Even though it was quite a drive from the main lodge where meals were served, it was the perfect location for some quality family time and the sweeping views from the bedrooms, bathrooms, patio and pool were breathtakingly beautiful.
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The drive between our Bush Villa and the restaurant for breakfast and dinner also served as a wonderful opportunity for wildlife spotting. We even had a chance encounter with a family of rhinos one evening which provided quite a lot of excitement. However, to experience the true magic of Gondwana, you need to go on a guided game drive. There is something thrilling about getting up close and personal to these wild African creatures and chances are good that you’ll come across most of the animals you’re hoping to see on safari. Gondwana Lodge offers a PanAfrican cuisine that is a delightful mix of both European and African flavors. Enjoy a warm breakfast with a view out over the game reserve, tasty lunch platters and African-style boma braais (BBQ) in the evenings. Gondwana Game Reserve is an ecofriendly luxury property managed by Gondwana Conservation Foundation (GCF) with a focus on wildlife conservation. Every aspect of the lodge has a focus on reducing its environmental footprint, protecting endangered species and reducing pressure on the water supply so you know a stay here has a positive impact on the environment.
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Seeking an enchanting arboreal abode? Tsala Treetop Lodge near Plettenberg bay is the destination for you. This luxurious hotel consists of a series of treehouses which are set in the treetops of an age-old indigenous forest and connected by an elevated wooden walkway. Tsala Treetop Lodge is the perfect escape for self-care and reflection and simply walking between your treehouse and the restaurant offers a chance for “shinrin yoku” or forest bathing. This unique accommodation combines the magical ambiance of the forest with endless views from the rooms and suites to create a place you’ll never want to leave. This one-of-a-kind property delights visitors from the moment they arrive with its unique architectural design which both stands out and blends in. The Afro-Baroque décor mixes earthy colors with striking textures in a true celebration of the spirit of Africa. Expect lavish opulence and refined elegance in a laidback setting that is surprisingly very familyfriendly. Tsala Treetop Lodge comprises of private suites and lavish villas with entrances that are almost hidden from sight in the forest but have decks and infinity pools that extend above the canopy. Our spacious villa had two bedrooms both with ensuite bathrooms, a lounge with a fireplace, a dining area with a small kitchenette.
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Each room had spectacular views which could be enjoyed from the bed or even from the outdoor shower. The large ceramic bathtubs dominated the large bathrooms and I enjoyed a heavenly soak each night of our stay - pure bliss. Meals at Tsala Treetop Lodge is a grand affair and diners can enjoy a enchanting sunset while eating in the glass-walled dining room. Each dish is exquisitely presented and created with care by Chef Louise and his expert team. Breakfast each morning is served either in the dining room or al fresco on the deck and you can choose from a number of delicious options. If you’re looking for an alternative option for dinner, head over to Zinzi - a restaurant on the property which is open to the public. Zinzi is located in the garden outside of the forest and surrounded by lovely manicured gardens and peaceful dams. This is fine dining at it’s best, so stay a while to enjoy the ambiance, mouthwatering dishes and exemplary local wine. What I loved most about Tsala Treetop Lodge was the personal touches. From a welcome message next to our complimentary bottle of champagne on arrival to the personalized message from the chef on our menus to the goodnight letters and treats left on the bed at turndown each night. Every aspect of your stay is tailored to you for the most magical experience.
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You can’t visit South Africa without spending time in a game reserve and Botlierskop Private Game Reserve is a great option for families with young children. This exceptional game reserve is easy to access from the town of Mossel Bay and is spread out over a number of locations and connected game farms. The Outeniqua mountain range forms a stunning backdrop to the lodge and from certain accommodation options you can even glimpse the Indian Ocean. Botlierskop Game Reserve offers visitors a rather unconventional safari experience. Each part of the reserve is designated for different wildlife and predators like lion are kept separate from the other animals. This allows more freedom and flexibility for game drives through the reserve. There are plenty of different accommodation choices available. From the Tented Lodge built on a rocky outcrop from which you can observe wildlife in the winding valleys below to the Manor House suites in the original farm house to the family-orientated Village Lodge to the luxe self-catering Bush Villas. Each accommodation type is located in it’s own section of the property and offers a unique experience to the others. We stayed in a luxury suite at the Village Lodge during our visit. The lovely lodge is situated just outside of the game reserve making it safe
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to walk around and explore the neatly tended herb and vegetable gardens. Botlierskop Village Lodge is the perfect destination for a country escape but with the added excitement of daily game drives. Since the property is closest to the historical town and original mission station it has been designed to be reminiscent of a settlers village of yesteryear while still being thoroughly contemporary with all the modern amenities you expect from luxury accommodations. With a collection of houses on the property, they have been lovingly restored and expertly decorated so that each suite has its own style and special flair. They range from single suites to large units known as the family wing with up to four rooms. Dining at Village Lodge in the Bellevue Restaurant is an absolute treat. The building was formerly used as a school and the space has been reimagined to reflect it’s history while still providing a pleasing ambiance for diners. There are both indoor and outdoor areas to eat and the interior courtyard has an open lawn, pool and play area for kids to safely enjoy some time outside. With an abundance of fresh produce grown in the gardens the chef is free to design the most appetizing dishes and every meal is memorable.
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Scotland BY: MICHAEL LINDSAY
A land of rolling hills, brisk air, and plenty of scotch. Though the weather may be a bit unpredictable, you are sure to have an enchanting visit in the land of the Scots. We began our adventure in the capital city of Edinburgh. Arguably the historic center of Scotland the city boasts breathtaking architecture, a bustling food scene, a history of paranormal activity, and of course, the birthplace of the world’s most famous wizard. Edinburgh is an incredibly walkable city with many of its main attractions located in the central part of the city known as Old town.
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Edinburgh
Castle Rock At the center of the city, you will see Castle Rock, a steep incline of basalt rock covering an extinct volcano. Nestled at its peak is Edinburgh Castle, one of the most besieged castles in all of Europe, now one of Scotland’s most popular tourist attractions. You can book afternoon tea at the castle before your tour where you will see the Great Hall, Argyle Battery, The Royal Scots Museum, and much more. Don’t be alarmed if you are near the castle around lunchtime as the One O’Clock Gun is still fired as part of a Scottish tradition. Six days a week the cannon can be heard at 1:00pm, this started in the 1800s as a timekeeping service for nearby ships. Unfortunately for us, a day of high winds thwarted a visit to the castle. Luckily everything else we wanted to see was within walking distance. Naturally, the second most important history of Scotland is Harry Potter!
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Elephant’s House / Victoria Street / Balmoral A stone’s throw away from Castle Rock is Elephant’s House Cafe and Victoria Street, both major attractions for Harry Potter fanatics like us. Elephant’s House is of course where J.K. Rowling sat while she wrote the first books about the now famous boy wizard. Still operating as an unpretentious cafe for locals, walking in you are hit with a sense of quaint normalcy. Tables packed with older patrons and young adults working on whatever the day holds for them or just having a coffee date with friends. Just around the corner from Elephant’s Cafe is Victoria street; a narrow, curved, sloping street with colorful storefronts. Serving as the inspiration for what is seen in the Harry Potter series as Diagon Alley, this architectural landmark has many allures. Here you will find independent shops and cafes alongside the Harry Potter Museum, The Great Wizard gift shop, and the Enchanted Galaxy gift shop. You can bet we found some wonderful HP souvenirs to take home. Rounding out our Harry Potter tour in Edinburgh was actually the hotel we stayed at. The Balmoral was not only opulent and refined, it has a dedicated apartment where J.K. Rowling stayed to write book
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7 of the series. This was the cherry on top of our Harry Potter fandom tour of Edinburgh.
Other Edinburgh attractions Once we had our fill of literary history, we were surprised at how many things we could do just in Old Town. We visited Palace of Holyrood House, walked the Royal Mile, had high tea at Balmoral, took an underground vault tour at The Real Mary King’s Close, participated in a “Scotch Whisky Experience,” and capped off our time in Edinburgh with a Valentine’s Day dinner atop Calton Hill. There is much more to explore from haunted tours, museums, gardens, pubs, the list goes on.
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As enchanting as the city can be, you won’t get a true sense of Scotland without visiting the Highlands. This northern region is dotted with picturesque Lochs, rolling hills, herds of sheep, and yes, one more iconic Harry Potter relic. We took a day to travel north, stopping at the Monachyle Mhor Hotel for a fine dining experience. Focused on locally sourced fruits, vegetables, and herbs from their personal gardens and wild meats and seafood from the surrounding landscape, a rotating menu means you are always eating the freshest ingredients featured that season. Not to mention the fact we got an oyster and scotch pairing experience, a true Scottish delight! Continuing north past loch after loch, we made it a point to stop at the famous Glennfinnan Viaduct. Easily identified from the Harry Potter movie series, if timed right, you can catch the iconic red Jacobite steam train chuffing across the bridge. Always a good idea to pack warm and water-resistant clothing, especially if visiting in the winter. We got caught in a rather aggressive mix of wind and rain while we were there, but managed to make it to the viewpoint and get a picture in our house sweatshirts and scarves. For the true fanatic, you can book a ticket on the train that traverses the viaduct and live your wizarding world dreams. This will certainly be on our list next time we visit! Once we warmed back up in the van we continued north to the remote Isle of Eriska where we sipped tea, walked the grounds and enjoyed another 42 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
Highlands
amazing meal at the Isle of Eriska Hotel. From there we trekked to Knockderry Country House for lunch and then on to the small town of Luss for a 4x4 adventure. We each took turns learning how to drive a true Land Rover through steep and muddy terrain while overlooking the storied Loch Lomond. From the hillside, we overlooked Loch Lomond Golf Course, one of the world’s most expensive private clubs. Traveling through Scotland truly felt like traveling through stories you grew up with. The landscapes are so familiar to us through television and film and visiting in person only added to the allure. Everyone we met was so inviting and excited to show us their beautiful country and you will nay find a Scotsman or woman who take themselves too seriously. The whole experience was one we will never forget. What surprised us the most I think was the food. Yes, we ate some of the traditional staples, but the inventiveness and push to source and create with local ingredients left our whole group with a new appreciation for a landscape that is often touted as cold and desolate. No need to worry though, if you do get chilly there is always whisky nearby to warm you up.
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CARL FRIEDRIK the carry-on pro
Centered on modernity and minimalism, Carl Friedrik offers a wide variety of stylish, durable and timeless goods - from refined leather accessories to hard-wearing, elegant luggage pieces. The Carryon Pro is a suitcase designed for the avid traveler. Features a large front pocket that offers easy access to travel essentials. The hard-shell pocket includes a laptop compartment, two pen slots and a smaller pocket. Internally, each side is an open compartment equipped with compression straps. Premium Italian leather detailing, durable aluminum lock frame, and silent Japanese spinner wheels add to the elegance and quality.
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SHARK HYPERAIR hair dryer
Shark HyperAIR™ delivers premium air power and next-generation intelligence for an easy, healthy hair-care experience. Combining high-velocity heated air and ionized air for ultra-fast drying, no heat damage, and styles that last. Attach the IQ 2-in-1 Concentrator or IQ Styling Brush and Shark HyperAIR™ intelligently sets the heat and airflow settings for you.
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VANS EVDNT UltimateWaffle
Vans’ greatest innovation in lifestyle footwear featuring UltimateWaffle construction. Using the unique UltimateWaffle construction, this new model features a translucent outsole that combines a built-in UltraCush™ insole with an internal stabilizing shank for more cushioning, durability, and support—all while offering a unique “what you see, is what you get” look and feel. The LuxLiner™ interior creates the perfect sock-like fit for more supportive and comfortable wear throughout the day.
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FITBIT SENSE advanced health smartwatch
Gain a better understanding of your body’s response to stress with the EDA Scan app, get a heart rhythm assessment with the Fitbit ECG app, and use the skin temperature sensor to keep an eye on trends over time. Use advanced tools to monitor your heart health. Check for signs of atrial fibrillation with a heart rhythm assessment on the Fitbit ECG app, and get in-the-moment high & low heart rate notifications.
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BREAKWATER SUPPLY EXPLORER waterproof backpack
Incredible waterproof protection, 25L capacity, and true work/play versatility. Features a 16” laptop sleeve & waterproof phone pocket. This durable, lightweight backpack offers unbeatable waterproof protection to keep your gear safe, dry, and secure – no matter what the conditions. S-curve shoulder straps, a molded EVA back panel, adjustable chest strap, and lightweight materials provide a comfortable fit with excellent ergonomics.
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VOIR - A WALK IN THE SUN shampoo & conditioner
Shampoo - A shampoo that gently cleanses and instantly infuses long-lasting hydration to extremely damaged hair. Formulated with a blend of 5 different seaweed extracts, rich in 24 vitamins, amino acids, and rare minerals including iron, and calcium to promote hair moisture and regeneration. Conditioner - Detangle and intensely nourish strands. A conditioner that instantly smooths down hair cuticles while infusing intense hydration on moisture-deprived hair.
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Tenuta di Arceno An Ancient Tuscan Estate BY: OLIVIA CHIARASTELLA
Tenuta di Arceno is an ancient Tuscan estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost commune of Chianti Classico. Located 30 kilometers east of Siena, the estate is dedicated equally to Sangiovese and international varieties, producing a portfolio of six wines under the Chianti Classico DOCG and Toscana IGT designations. Led by winemakers Pierre Seillan and Lawrence Cronin, the estate’s 90-hectares of vines are parceled into 60 individual blocks, so that each is farmed and harvested individually to yield its highest quality expression. With the ancient walled town of San Gusmè as its backdrop, Tenuta di Arceno is a site to discover off the beaten path in Tuscan wine country.
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Tenuta di Arceno has been a center for winemaking since the 16th century. Located near the fork of two rivers – the Ambra, which flows to Florence, and the Ombrone, which flows to the Mediterranean – this area was formerly the nexus of the Etruscan civilization. In honor of its history, the reference to “Arceno” comes from the Etruscan word archè, meaning "point of origin.” Through its history, the estate passed through ownership by two prominent Italian families – the Del Taja family, followed by the Piccolomini family. The Del Taja family purchased the land parcel by parcel in 1504, expanding the estate and adding architectural enhancements. In 1829, the Del Taja family sold the property to one of the most illustrious families of Siena, the Piccolominis, who added to the grandeur of the estate – whereby they built gardens, lakes, and many of the villas that stand on the property today. Continuing its legacy of family ownership, Tenuta di Arceno was acquired by Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke in 1994.
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Tenuta di Arceno has a diverse portfolio of the highest quality wines across two classification levels – three wines centered on the native Sangiovese grape in the Chianti Classico DOCG range; and three wines celebrating the estates international varieties under the Toscana IGT designation. The estate is situated at the southernmost edge of Chianti Classico in the butterflyshaped commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, closest in proximity to Siena, and rightfully referred to as ‘the most Senese Chianti Classico.’ The estate is 1,000 total hectares of which only 90 hectares are planted to vines, and the remaining land is preserved for native vegetation. Separated into 63 distinct vineyard blocks, the vineyards are planted equally to Sangiovese and international varieties.
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Wines: Tenuta di Arceno produces six wines from the estate. Three Chianto Classico DOCG wines (Chianti Classico Annata, Chianti Classico Riserva and Strada al Sasso Gran Selezione) Three Toscana IGT wines (il Fauno, Valadorna and Arcanum). All are 100% estate grown and bottled. Tenuta di Arceno features a stunning tasting room for guests to enjoy the latest vintages from the estate’s collection of the world’s finest Chianti Classico DOCG and Toscana IGT wines. Visitors are welcome to experience a true taste of Tuscany, while exploring the extensive vineyards, rolling hills, ancient Cypress trees, sun-drenched fields, olives groves, vineyards and medieval monuments scattered throughout the property.
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Emblematic Copacabana. There is so much vibration and energy that emanates from this beach. Whether it be people training at night, families enjoying the sea for the weekend, or tourists discovering this amazing wild bay, you’ll never find it empty. The singular black dots represent for me all these different groups, with all their different activities. The curved shapes created by the back-and-forth of the waves is similar to the city skyline, and appears shaped like the surrounding cerros of Rio De Janeiro. 52 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
Rio De Janeiro A Photographic Journey Featured Artist: Alicia Lebreton
Instagram: @alicia_lbrt Gear: Fujifilm X-T10, 35mm F1.4, 56mm F1.4, 70-300mm F.4.5-5.6 Drone - Anafi Parrot I am passionate about discoveries. I’ve been very lucky to travel with my parents since I was very young. Therefore I have this passion rooted deeply inside me, and I have now visited over 30 countries in different parts of the world. As years go on, my traveling style is changing: I now prefer to stay for longer in specific places, in order to get a better understanding of it, to discover more deeply its people and its customs.
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The view of this majestic beach shows the rocks surfaces polished by the never ending beat of the Atlantic Ocean waves, providing the smooth and soft appearance. We can almost imagine an animal appearance in these rounded shapes in the sand.
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Further away from the main beach of Trindade, you reach a more isolated part of the beach. Enormous rock blocks grow in the middle of the sand. While I was walking amidst this maze, a young girl appeared from behind one of the structures. Knowing that in this area there is barely any habitation, no nearby village, and nothing but sand and jungle I wondered where she was from. It was however the end of the day, and I was amused to see she was wearing a black velvet party dress, which seemed completely in contrast with the place we were in.
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Ipanema beach and Copacabana, are two bays famous for their pavement designed by Roberto Burle Marx. The sand bags on the left side of the picture look like another pavement design.
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The famous representation of Christ adds a mystic aspect to this Corcovado. Soaring on top of this bronze-reflected cerro, he emerges from the clouds according to his mood. A small joke was born from the rivalry between inhabitants of Rio De Janeiro and those of Sao Paulo: Paulistanos say that the Corcovado will stand with its arms spread apart until the Cariocas (inhabitants from Rio) start getting to work. On this day, he will be able to clap his hands. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 57
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On the way back from Trindade to Paraty, the sun was going down and providing heat for the whole day. The sky was filled with stormy energy, resulting in an orange ceiling ready to burst. The combination of the sky, green shades of the jungle and centenary trees escaping from it creates an unreal illusion. Only the street cable, visible in the corner of the picture, bring us back to reality and remind us it is not a scene of the Apocalypse.
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There are often some elements in the landscapes which trigger my interest. This structure on one of the many beaches of Ilha Grande was one of them. It consists barely of a floating platform, with pillars, a roof, and what looks like a room on top of it. What is it made for? Who found the need to build this? How did he achieve it? Does it serve a purpose? Many questions for which I will probably never have answers, however often the answer is not as interesting as what the mind makes up. 60 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
The drone view of Trindade area makes it interesting to wonder where the rocks came from, and why they landed here in this specific gathering? From the sea level, the rocks are very impressive and completely obstruct the visitor’s view, but from this aerial point of view they appear like small pebbles. This loss of all sense of dimension is what I appreciate about drone pictures.
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A man sitting on the beach looking toward Gavea Rock. This is the steepest cerro of Rio de Janeiro, making it a challenging hike. Next to it is the Vidigal favela. It is so interesting to see the contrast of two worlds. On one side a man sitting on a chair in the sun on a deserted beach on one of the most luxurious districts of Rio,Leblon. On the other, this favela, with its labyrinth of streets, its houses one above another and full of people. Two opposite worlds looking at one another, condemned to observe each other but never to interact. 62 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
Almost all the walls from this traditional Confeitaria are covered with mirrors, reminding me of the Galerie des Glaces from Versailles. Here in the heart of Rio, you don’t enter a museum but rather a space filled with life, where families over many generations come to gather and share moments. There is definitely an influence of the European style that is visible in this Art-Deco setting, offering mirror games wherever one sets his eye.
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5
of the Most Visited Castles in Europe BT: ZUNAIRA GHAZAL
Europe is, overall, a notable tourist hub where the carefully preserved historical gems, aesthetic architecture, and romantic vibe attract thousands and thousands of tourists every year. Some of the busiest tourist sites are the historic castles of Europe, reflecting the grandeur and cultural splendor of countless past civilizations. Prior to Covid’s impact, I had the opportunity to travel this amazing continent. Visiting Europe was an experience of a lifetime, especially for a history fanatic like me who got to visit, touch, observe and walk around the hallways, paths, and rooms of the castles, where royals of the past once lived and governed. In this article, I will walk you through five of the most visited castles in Europe, and point out the reasons why these castles stand out among thousands across this historically rich continent. 64 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
Alcazar de Segovia
On this list of the five most visited castles in Europe, the first is Alcazar de Segovia. Located in Segovia, Spain, the Alcazar of Segovia is one of the famous medieval castles in Spain. The castle's architecture appears to have come straight out of some dreamland with its enchanting towers and picturesque turrets. The backdrop of the castle is also worth note, with the castle’s clifftop positioning amid the Guadarrama mountains that extend beyond. The castle was built in the twelfth century by King Alfonso VI as a royal residence. King Alfonso VIII was the first Emperor to enjoy this castle as his residence. The castle was later modified in the sixteenth century as per Gothic traditions, which can still be seen today. In the eighteenth century, the castle was converted to a state prison until King Charles III decided to change the castle's status to a Royal Artillery school in 1762. Today, the castle serves as a museum and military archives building. Thousands of tourists worldwide visit this dreamland castle for both its historical significance and picturesque location, making it one of the top five most-visited castles in Europe. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 65
Neuschwanstein Castle
Another beautiful castle providing architectural splendor and visual aesthetics, is Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany. Nestled amid the Bavarian Alps, the castle appears to have been plucked and pasted on Earth from a Disney movie. Interestingly, the castle has inspired many castles featured in Disney movies. From its fascinating turrets to its magnificent throne hall to its sky-high towers, Neuschwanstein Castle certainly deserves the status of being one of the top five most visited castles in Europe. Reflecting on the castle's history, the building of the castle is believed to be commissioned by King Ludwig II, but he never lived to see the castle completed. The castle never got the status of a royal residence. Instead, after the death of Ludwig II it was opened to the public and soon became famous in Germany as one of the highest visited tourist spots. With the Gothic structural elements blending with Byzantine-Arab traditions, the castle offers fascinating architectural and cultural traditions of the past. You cannot visit the castle without a guided tour, and an entrance fee is required to enter the castle premises, but the experience itself is definitely worth the cost.
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Rheinstein Castle
Rheinstein Castle is another German hot spot in Europe. It continues to enchant tourists worldwide with its romantic vibes and hotel services for visitors. Located on a rocky ridge overlooking the Rhine River, there is no better spot than the Rheinstein Castle to enjoy a first-hand experience of staying in a medieval castle. The castle is protected by the Rhine Valley walls, providing an optimal temperature surrounding the area, adding to its features as the five topmost visited castles in Europe. Exploring the castle's history, it was built around 1282 AD by the Roman Emperor Rudolph von Habsburg. The castle was constructed for the Archbishop of Mainz, to secure the land against the marauding knights. The castle enjoyed its glory for the coming few centuries till it was reduced to ruins in the 17th century. The ruins were later restored by Prince Friedrich in the 19th century, mirroring romantic architectural traditions. An enchanting garden, according to Romantic traditions, was also added to the castle to elevate its aesthetics. The castle today is famous for its historical significance and the special experiences it offers to tourists. In addition to the guided tours, the castle has a restaurant overlooking the Rhine River where you can bask in the medieval aesthetics of the castle while enjoying your food. In addition, there are two beautiful apartments furnished with period décor where you can stay overnight and get a real-life experience of staying in a castle. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 67
Hohensalzburg Fortress
Celebrating1000 years worth of history, this castle earns its place as one of the top five most visited castles in Europe. The castle is located on a hilltop in the outskirts of Salzburg city. With its Baroque towers overlooking the city, Hohensalzburg Castle features one of the most enchanting skylines. Exploring the castle's history, the initial construction of the castle began around 1077, under the supervision of Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein. The castle was originally built with wood but was later fortified and expanded by Emperor Henry IV in the fifteenth century. The renovations and reinforcements to the castle continued throughout its history, with the most recent done in the later nineteenth century. The fortress began as a royal residence, then became a prison for Italian prisoners of war, and is now known as one of the best preserved castles in Europe. To visit this historical beauty, you need to pay a small ticket fee for the castle and the museum. If you plan ahead, you can reserve a spot to enjoy a Mozart’s concert, as well as a VIP dinner and river cruise.
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Alhambra Palace
Alhambra Palace located in Granada, Spain, also finds its place among the five most visited castles in Europe. With the mountains of Sierra Nevada as its backdrop against its red brick walls, it is a pristine example of Moorish architecture in Spain. Overlooking the city of Granada, the palace was built around 1238 AD, where it started as a small fortress known as Alcazaba. The fortress was expanded to a palace under Nasrid rule, followed by several reconstructions and reinforcements to the castle. After the Moors were expelled from the castle in the fifteenth century, King Charles V rebuilt some of the palace portions in Renaissance style and added Italian influences. Today, the palace stands proud in its carefully preserved form with the original Moorish orchids and gardens. Exploring this Moorish beauty, you will hear many legends and anecdotes attached to the castle’s history.
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Around the British Isles in 18 holes BY: ANDREW MARSHALL
What are the best golf holes you've played? Every golfer has their favorites - ones that stay etched firmly in the memory long after playing them. With this concept in mind, golf travel journalist Andrew Marshall takes you on a tour of his favorite 18 holes from around the British Isles – on a composite course made up of four par-3's, ten par-4's and four par-5's...
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HOLE 1: Northern Ireland, Portstewart, Par-4, 427 yards. It’s a claim that’s often made – Portstewart's Strand course (venue for the 2017 Irish Open) has arguably the best opening hole in Irish golf. Played from an elevated tee with topography that bucks and plunges like a raging river, you will really need to focus on your drive to avoid being distracted by the stunning coastal views, on this classic 427 yards par-4 called Tubber Patrick. It's a memorable start to a wonderful links dominated by huge dunes peppered with plenty of testing holes.
HOLE 2: Ireland, Portsalon, Par-4, 396 metres. Nestled under the Knockalla Mountain on the picturesque Fanad Peninsula and stretching along Ballymastocker Beach, this engagingly old-fashioned Irish links bristles with local character and charm. Offering a fantastic vista, the blockbuster par-4 2nd known as Strand, is played from a high tee to a fairway running diagonally along a sea inlet, then across a river to a wellbunkered green. If you find the fairway, you have a choice – be a hero and go for the green, or lay up short of the river, the choice is yours on what is widely regarded as one of Ireland's finest holes.
HOLE 3: Wales, Aberdovey, Par-3, 167 yards. Legendary golf architects, Herbert Fowler, James Braid and Harry Colt have all played a part in shaping this old fashioned out-and-back links dating from 1892, nestled beautifully between the beach on one side, and rolling hills and the railway on the other. The blind par-3 3rd named Cader featuring a punchbowl green is arguably Aberdovey's most famous hole. Club selection is crucial here as being short leaves a blind chip shot, or going long leaves a difficult up and down.
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HOLE 4: Wales, Nefyn & District, Par-4, 411 yards. Dramatically positioned on cliff tops at the foot of the Porthdinllaen headland jutting out from the Llŷn Peninsula into the Irish Sea, this spectacular layout is a unique 27-hole course with sea views from every hole, consisting of the 18-hole, par-71 Old Course and the 9-hole par-71, New Course. The Old Course’s par-4 4th hole with its green nestling between rocky outcrops is the start of a great run of holes along the peninsula, which will live long in the memory regardless of your score or the weather.
HOLE 5: Northern Ireland, Royal Portrush, Par-4, 382 yards. As Royal Portrush first comes into view round a curve in the County Antrim Coast Road, it provides a magical sight, with its green fairways hiding among shaggy-topped dunes and the great headland of Inishowen contrasting vividly with the low line of the Skerries and the sea beyond. Established in May 1888, Royal Portrush’s World Top 20 Dunluce course is a great test for any golfer. It hosted the British Open in 1951, and then for the second time in 2019, when Irishman Shane Lowry lifted the famous Claret Jug. There are plenty of great holes at Royal Portrush and it’s truly difficult to choose just one. On the front nine, the 5th called White Rocks with its cliff-side green and magnificent coastal views is a worthy contender.
HOLE 6: England, St. Enodoc, Par-4, 378 yards. Many keen golfers will have heard of Cornwall’s St. Enodoc, but not all will have made the pilgrimage to this wonderful James Braid designed links dating from 1890. The 6th hole really sticks in the mind – a 378-yarder that kinks left at driving distance then climbs up to the green. If your tee shot is too short and right, it will leave you with a blind shot over the cavernous ‘Himalaya’ bunker rising 80 feet above the fairway, to a green which lies 100 yards beyond.
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HOLE 7: Ireland, European Club, Par-5, 449 yards. Crafted out of tumbling dunes by Pat Ruddy, The European Club features 18-holes (plus 2 bonus par-3s) of exciting links golf with dramatic views of the Irish Sea. This is seaside golf at its very best, with fast-running fairways, greens that invite the pitch-and-run approach, pot bunkers with sleepered faces, and the taste of salt in the sea air. Look out for the long, testing 7th, flanked by reeds and imposing dunes, and voted one of the world’s greatest 100 golf holes.
HOLE 8: England, Formby, Par-5, 483 yards. Situated several miles north of Liverpool on England’s Golf Coast, Formby is a true championship course unlike any other, founded in 1884. After the first five heathland-style holes running beside the railway, the course really changes complexion as the holes begin weaving through sand dunes and mature pinewoods, providing a secluded and tranquil golfing experience. A memorable example is the par-5 8th played to a tabletop fairway with sharp ledges on either side. Longer hitters will be able to reach the first fairway lower down to go for the double tier green in two.
HOLE 9: Scotland, Rennaisance Club, Par-3, 202 yards. Set on elevated coastal ground overlooking the Firth of Forth and carved out of 300 acres of pine forest, this distinctive and aesthetic Tom Doak design is routed through an open dunes landscape, punctuated by windswept trees, drystone walls, linksy rough and fast undulating greens. The course starts benignly enough, but from the 7th onwards, it builds more character and opens up towards the coast. One of the standout holes is the 9th - a photogenic par-3 featuring ancient rock walls and twisted pines.
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HOLE 10: Ireland, Lough Erne, Par-4, 351 yards. Located in the heart of the Fermanagh Lakelands, Lough Erne's Faldo course (designed by six-time major champion Sir Nick Faldo) meanders through pine forest before making its way to the Lough Erne side, and features wetland areas, elevated tees, deep bunkers and sloping greens. One of the most memorable holes is the 10th, constructed on a man-made peninsula jutted into the scenic waters of Lough Erne. Big hitters will be tempted to go for it, but for many, a combination of a hybrid or mid-iron off the tee followed by a wedge of some description will be the sensible strategy.
HOLE 11: England, Hillside, Par-5, 509 yards. Hillside lies a stone's throw from Royal Birkdale, amid a stretch of sandhills on the outskirts of Southport and has many of the attributes of its illustrious neighbor. The gentler, varied front half, contrasts with a more explosive back nine featuring a series of holes that linger in the mind long after playing. A great example is the par-5 11th which requires a precise drive up the left, with anything to the right likely to fall into a well-placed fairway bunker. With its elevated tee that provides stunning views over nearby Royal Birkdale and the surrounding area, this classic hole is ranked in the the World's Top 100.
HOLE 12: Northern Ireland, Ardglass, Par-3, 198 yards. This classic clifftop gem hugs a rugged headland on the County Down coastline, offering sea views from every hole. The signature par-3 12th (set across from Coney Island made famous by Van Morrison), is particularly exciting, and often draws comparisons with the famous 17th hole at Pebble Beach. The view from the elevated tee, with a backdrop of the Irish Sea and the majesty of the brooding Mourne Mountains is worth the green fee alone.
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HOLE 13: Scotland, North Berwick, Par-4, 388 yards. With its variety of holes and obstacles, historic North Berwick (established in 1832) requires a full repertoire of shot-making to negotiate hidden greens, burns, deep bunkers and all manner of humps and hollows. A hole that sums up the quirkiness of this playful links is the 13th, called Pit, which requires an imaginative approach to a narrow sunken green, protected by a sand dune on the left, mounds on the back right, and most dramatically – by an ancient three-foot-high stone wall that runs completely across the front and sides. Great fun.
HOLE 14: Scotland, Trump International, Par-4, 372 yards. As you turn off the A90 north of Aberdeen and continue down the milelong driveway to the clubhouse, glimpses of shaggy topped dunes provide a tantalizing appetizer for the main course. One of the course highlights is after you leave the 13th green, then pass through a little gap in the dunes to emerge on the 14th’s elevated tee - and the unforgettable sight of a rumpled fairway twisting its way through towering dunes alongside the wild North Sea. The drive on this amphitheater of a hole where you feel totally enclosed is a knee knocker, but find the fairway, and the hole seems to open up in front of you. A great two-shot hole.
HOLE 15: Wales, Royal St. David’s, Par-4, 439 yards. As you play this super seaside course established in 1894, there are splendid views of the 13th-century Harlech Castle and a backdrop of the Snowdon Mountains beyond. Royal St. David’s is memorable for its series of long demanding par-4’s (seven are over 400 yards) and its loop of five finishing holes through the dunes, particularly the bunker free 15th, that requires two precise shots to reach the green. From an elevated tee, a bold drive across dunes to a diagonally running fairway, leaves a partially blind approach shot to a hidden, slightly raised green nestling between dunes. A bogey here will be a decent result for many players.
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HOLE 16: Ireland, Enniscrone, Par-5, 538 yards. Twelve of Enniscrone’s holes wind and twist their way through a maze of the tallest and shaggiest dunes on the County Sligo coast, where a sense of isolation and tranquility surrounds you, with only wild Atlantic views and the uplifting sounds of skylarks for company. The Dunes at Enniscrone isn’t your average layout – it’s a serious golfing adventure on a breathtaking course. Curving between the dunes and the ocean, the 16th hole sums up what the course is all about. Keeping the ball on the fairway is key, and the second shot should favor the right hand side for the best approach to an elevated green which is wide but very shallow.
HOLE 17: England, Halifax Golf Club, Par-3, 176 yards. Draped across Ogden Valley near Haworth in West Yorkshire’s Bronte country, this little-known moorland layout’s first dozen holes present a steady climb up the valley, with the 13th through to the 16th sitting on a plateau with marvelous views. After the 16th there is nowhere to go but down, and the par3 17th, aptly named Bagott’s Leap is Halifax’s most famous hole. Played from an elevated tee on the hillside, across heather and a brook to a green sitting 62 ft below, club selection is of paramount importance to negotiate the 176 yards.
HOLE 18: Scotland, Carnoustie, Par-4, 444 yards. There’s nothing to match the experience of playing one of the most famous holes in world golf, and Carnoustie’s challenging closing par-4 will play as a par-5 for the majority of golfers, even from the front markers. Faced with a tee shot most likely into the wind, you must negotiate the notorious Barry Burn that winds across the fairway like an agitated snake. The score is irrelevant here, as you feel the weight of history and the stories of past British Open champions, like Jean Van de Velde, Padraig Harrington and Francesco Molinari, while walking towards the green and clubhouse.
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In January 2020 bush fires destroyed 210,000-hectare of important wildlife habitat. We’ll check in and see how the recovery is going