DRIFT Travel Magazine Winter 2021

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HEALING WELLNESS TRAVEL

SELF-CARE FOCUSED DESTINATIONS

OVERLANDING + BIKEPACKING

TRAVEL TRENDS FOR THE TIMES

THE BRILLIANT SURI

CAPTURING YOUTH IN ETHIOPIA’S ANCIENT TRIBE

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER 2021 COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY at DRIFTTRAVEL.COM
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TRAVEL OFTEN LIVE WELL 1
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PUBLISHER

GLOSSY MEDIA

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

STEVE DRAKE

PRODUCTION/EDITORIAL

GABBEY PALLET, FERENC ELEKES, KAITLIN NARCISO, JOE CRUZ, STEVE DRAKE, SYLVIA TENNANT, TLELL MACRAE, TRACEY DRAKE, WENDY BEDNARZ, ZOEY GOTO

CREATIVE | PHOTOGRAPHY

ADOBE STOCK, AMOGH MANJUNATH, BETTINA NØRGAARD, BJÖRN HERMANSSON, CALLIE GIBSON, CASEY HORNER, CHELSEA GATES, CHRIS LAWTON, DARREN EE, DAVID A. LEE, EDUARDO SANTOS, FERENC ELEKES, FLORIAN WEHDE, HANNY NAIBAHO, JOONYEOP BAEK, LEONHARD SCHÖNSTEIN, MERITT THOMAS, NICK HILLIER, OLIVER PLATTNER, PIXABAY, SPENCER DAVIS, STEVE DRAKE, TOMMASO CANTELLI, UPSPLASH, WIAN JUANICO, WIKIMEDIA

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© COPYRIGHT DRIFT TRAVEL MAGAZINE GLOSSY MEDIA 2015-2021

Glossy Media All rights reserved. No part of DRIFT magazine may be copied or reproduced without permission.
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In this rst issue of 2021, we invite you to imagine travel in new and interesting ways. ink of DRIFT as your inspiration guide, as you begin to plan your destination list once the world is ready for you. Come along on the journey - no passport required.

TRAVEL OFTEN LIVE WELL 3 INSIDE
issue TRAVEL OFTEN LIVE WELL TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER 2021 COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY DRIFTTRAVEL.COM HEALING WELLNESS TRAVEL TRAVEL TRENDS FOR THE TIMES OVERLANDING + BIKEPACKING CAPTURING YOUTH IN ETHIOPIA’S ANCIENT TRIBE THE BRILLIANT SURI SELF-CARE FOCUSED DESTINATIONS
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SAILING AWAY e ultimate charter yacht experience 28 PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY Overlanding from Budapest to Singapore 14 CALI MODERNISM Mid century modern in Palm Springs 62 TRAVEL GEAR Must haves for the savvy traveler 10 THE COLORS OF SURI Youthful vibrancy in an ancient tribe 42 BANGKOK, THAILAND A quick trip through a fascinating city 58 BIKEPACKING IN 2021 A new trend in so adventure travel 48 REDISCOVER TRAVEL Shi ing the mindset post pandemic 38 OVERWATER BUNGALOWS A review of our favorite ve 52 48 HOURS IN THE BAY CITY A quick trip to San Francisco, California 30 TRUE WELLNESS Five incredible healing destinations 4

Five Fabulous Wellness Resorts

e Year 2020 will go down in history as a doozie, lled with lots of ups and downs. Everyone was a ected in some WAY by COVID-19. With a vaccine on the horizon, travel in 2021 is set to be an anticipated return to (some degree of) normality, with many of us craving travel and de nitely deserving of a true wellness retreat.

From a self-care retreat in a stunning Italian setting, to a state of the art full detox in Britain, or a pamper lled retreat to a world class wellness resort in Spain, Scotland or Mexico, our carefully curated list provides a destination for anyone craving meaningful renewal and serenity.

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Lefay Resort & Spa Dolomites, Italy

Not far from Romeo and Juliet’s Verona lies Lefay Dolomites; a state-of-the-art rejuvenation retreat with an intrinsic focus on wellness. Surrounded by crystal lakes, lush forests and snow capped Dolomite Mountains, this exquisite escape has a speci c program designed to unlock optimal health and beauty. With world class therapies including HydraFacial MD treatments, oxygen therapy intraceuticals and a chestnut owers scrub with alpine salt and traditional alpine butter. ey say that Lefay is for anyone who still wishes to be surprised and who loves to get lost and then nd themselves again

Lefay Spa is known for its signature treatments, created by combining traditional massage techniques with the stimulation of body points and energy meridians.

dolomites.lefayresorts.com

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Glass House Retreat Upminster, England

Start the year o right with a thorough detox surrounded by acres of sweeping elds in a stateof-the-art wellness facility, less than an hour from London. A contemporary marvel, e Glass House Detox and Wellness Retreat o ers a thorough and invigorating detox retreat to help beat the lockdown blues. Expect a full-body composition analysis with goal evaluations, cryotherapy, deep tissue massages as well as a choice of three full board interchangeable dietary plans. e Glass House boasts a team of spa therapists, reiki practitioners, personal trainers and a Colonic Hydrotherapist.

e Glass House is custom built for wellness, with eight treatment rooms, a separate salt block sauna, cryo chamber, and a heated leisure pool—all you need to recover from the mental and physical intensities of life.

glasshouseretreat.co.uk

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The Gleneagles Hotel Perthshire, Scotland

Set amongst sweeping Scottish highlands, this opulent manor house has an 850-acre estate lled with activities and self-care experiences. Heavenly treatments in beautiful surroundings with twenty treatment rooms, steam room, hot sauna cabin, a warm, dark vitality pool, a light- lled relaxation courtyard and a healthy Spa café. Wellness at Gleneagles Spa is an upli ing experience to nourish the mind, body and soul.

Put yourself in the caring hands an expert team of therapists and indulge in signature treatments, natural remedies. O make the most of the natural landscape surrounding Gleneagles with Wild Wellness – a mindful and restorative nature-based wellness program.

gleneagles.com

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La Palma & Teneguía Tenerife, Spain

To set the tone and scale of La Palma & Teneguia Princess, know that they have not 1, not 3, not 5 but 7 swimming pools! is tropical paradise is home to volcanoes, lagoons and pristine beaches. A fantastic program blending wellness and tness is o ered. Enjoy an immense range of complimentary tness classes instructed by expert personal trainers that o er a mixture of core, cardio, weightli ing, and even blissful yoga. Balance tness with laps of La Palma’s thermal spa circuit as well as aromatherapy and aloe infused massages.

e beautiful island of La Palma has all of the ingredients you need to completely unwind and relax - the perfect destination to discover the true meaning of relaxation and replenishment.

princess-hotels.com

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Casa Tara La Paz, Mexico

Located on the beautiful Baja Peninsula, Casa Tara is a wellness resort where you can swim with whale sharks, kiteboard the ocean waves, take the best yoga class of your life, or simply kick back and relax on the beach.

At Kahlal Spa & Wellness at Casa Tara, they’ve brought back to life the holistic teachings of their native ancestors and blended them with a mix of ancient oriental healing techniques to create a unique range of spa treatments. From skin-care rituals to aromatherapy signature massages you will nd the perfect body-and-soul balancing package.

casatararetreat.com

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bringing you the best in trending travel clothing, accessories and gear.

CONNECTED ORGANIZED STYLISH

DAMPAÌ Italian hand bags

EKSTER card holder wallets

Packed and ready to go? Don’t leave home without an essential travel belt, made from recycled plastic bottles. Lightweight, low pro le and metal-free Jelt belts can be worn through airport TSA security and other metal detectors. Versatile and virtually invisible, Jelt metal-free belts are perfect for people who travel, hike, bike, ski, golf, or just be want to be comfortable in their favorite jeans.

ekster.com

Packable, expandable and fashion forward, Dampai bags o er design simplicity, bold colors, and diversity. Converts easily from carry-on travel tote to shopping bag; laptop carrier to fabulous beach bag. Dampai leather bags are available in many unique variations, colors, and shapes. dampai.it

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DEFUNC earbud

Swedish audio brand Defunc launches three new wireless earbud products to level up your mobile sound. TRUE GAMING, the world’s rst tailored wireless earbud for mobile gaming featuring low latency audio, dual microphones, and 360° surround sound for the ultimate play experience; TRUE PLUS, a premium wireless product with dual microphones and adjustable head – perfect for today’s remote o ce demands; and TRUE GO SLIM which features a smaller earbud for ultimate t and comfort while you’re on the move. defunc.com

WANDRD fernweh 50l backpacking bag

e FERNWEH 50L is so much more than a standard backpack. It’s an adventure backpacking bag expertly built for reaching places you’ve never been. It pushes the boundaries of comfort, access, and versatility, no matter where you take it. wandrd.com

e bag comes in two di erent frame sizes, the shoulder strap height can be adjusted up or down, and both the shoulder strap and waist strap are completely removable and available in two di erent sizes.

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VIONIC shoes

A fresh fashionable footwear brand with a modern twist on comfort. Consistently delivering on-trend styles and features reeZone Comfort with Ultimate Arch Support. Vionic brings a fresh perspective to fashionable, supportive footwear, with elegant everyday sandals, to active styleforward sneakers, walkable atform sandals, and Vionic’s iconic ip- ops. vionicshoes.com

PHILIPS ONE by Sonicare

Sonicare’s rst-ever battery operated toothbrush is designed speci cally for those who value beautiful product design that delivers equally fantastic results. An easy upgrade from a manual toothbrush, the Philips One achieves on-the-go convenience without compromising oral care, all in a vibrant new style. philips.com

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HYDROPEPTIDE travel kit

is wrinkle rescue set is designed to be your rst step in building an anti-wrinkle skincare routine. e collection includes everything you need to jump start your skin’s collagen production and battle against visible signs of aging. Filled with deluxe samples of HydroPeptide’s best selling, peptide lled products, in an easy to pack case. hydropeptide.com

CONAIR unbound petite collection

ese miniature tools are perfect for those on the go! Included in the Petite Cordless Collection collection is the Multi Styler, Curling Iron, Hot Brush, and Flat Iron. Each tool is travel size, delivers powerful performance and cordless convenience with up to 20 minutes of cord-free runtime and a USB plug-in for quick recharging. conair.com

Turkey - e roaring ames take you to 2600 feet to watch the sunset over Mount Erciyes.

BUDAPEST TO SINGAPORE A Photographic Journey

Featured Photographer: Ferenc Elekes

Instagram: @overlandsite

Website: overlandsite.com

Cameras: Canon 100D and iPhone X

Originally a lawyer, Ferenc has lived in seven countries and traveled through more than seventy. Having recently le the corporate world in London, Ferenc has been focusing on overlanding, where he can combine two things he is most passionate about: cars and travel. His experience in overlanding comes from extensive trips on three di erent continents, with the latest being Budapest to Singapore with a Land Cruiser 120 and a roof-top tent. Ferenc adventures around the world with Evelin. When they’re not on the road, they live in Budapest, Hungary.

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Hungary - Parliament of Budapest has been the country’s largest building since opening in 1902.

Georgia - Great camp meal, a bottle of ne Georgian wine, and a beautiful sunset. at’s all you need for a perfect evening as an overlander.

Mongolia - Driving halfway across the globe creates a very strong bond while solving issues, hurdles and experiencing adventures and beautiful moments together.

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Mongolia - Falconry in the Central Asian steppe is a 6,000 year old tradition.
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China - At an elevation of over 13,000 feet, not only the thin air but also the view will take your breath away in Tsuoka, in the Kahm Region of historical Tibet.

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China - e grottoes of the Mati temple are interconnected and if visitors want climbing to the top grottoes, they have to challenge climbing narrow passages and dark staircases.

China - Becoming a Buddhist monk can be an escape from poverty for many young boys.

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China - By walking through mysterious peaceful wild forests with magni cent snow mountains around you, you’ll end up at this majestic place with colorful travertine lakes and ponds.

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ailand - Driving to ailand and experience empty beaches can be a totally di erent experience than usual Southeast Asian holidays.

ailand - If you make it to the cave on time in the morning, the small pavilion is ooded with sunrays, making this place even more magical.

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ailand - Merchants and shoppers are not that fussed about the regular train tra c between the stalls ath the Maeklong Railway Market.

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WE MADE IT

Arriving in Singapore, the city is a huge contrast for a traveler going through Central Asia, the Gobi Desert or the rural areas of South-East Asia.

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Prana Charter Yacht by Atzaro

Looking for the ultimate bubble holiday? Prana by Atzaro is a beautiful Indonesian Phinisi yacht, available for exclusive use, that sails round the magically unexplored islands of Raja Ampat, the Komodo Islands and The Spice Islands in Indonesia.

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For those looking to relax and recharge, 4 spacious decks with king size daybeds offer abundant places to retreat to. A yoga deck doubles as an open-air cinema and Prana’s main deck has inside and outside living and a luxury spa.

Designed with the utmost luxury, Prana by Atzaro is fully soundproofed and the suites are decorated with sumptuous vintage fabrics and contemporary linens in a sophisticated palette. This luxury vessel offers more space and comfort than any other Phinisi, with all the super deluxe modern conveniences of a five-star hotel. There is one lavish master suite and eight additional suites.

The 18-man crew includes a cruise director, dive instructor, several chefs, stewards and expert spa therapists; all on hand to deliver a seamless experience and to ensure every need is met.

pranabyatzaro.com

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HOURS IN... San Francisco 48

If you’re lucky enough to nd yourself in San Francisco with just 48 hours to explore the countless sights – read on. e City by the Bay is famous for its fog (known a ectionately as Karl), cable cars, steep hills, Ghirardelli chocolate and of course – the famous Golden Gate Bridge.

is is a blend of touristy must-do’s and local gems that will easily ll 48 hours in San Francisco, and leave you dreaming of your next trip before you’ve even le the city.

Arrival

San Francisco o ers the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) which connects the airport to downtown via train in roughly 30-60 minutes depending on transfers and tra c. If you’re on a budget or have the time, it’s a no brainer. If you’re in a rush or want to skip navigating, book an Uber, Ly or taxi. Speaking of rideshares, if you haven’t downloaded an Uber or Ly app yet – now is the time to do it, you’ll need it.

Stay

Regardless of how much time you have in San Francisco, central accommodation is a must. Avoid the tourist-heavy hotels lining Fisherman’s Wharf or Union Square, and head to Nob Hill. Accessible on foot to Chinatown, Union Square, Fisherman’s Wharf and Grace Cathedral, Nob Hill o ers stunning vistas and quintessential San Francisco architecture. Some of the city’s swankiest hotels are found in this neighborhood, and nothing is as historic as the grand dame

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herself: the Fairmont San Francisco. Hosting the rst group of statesmen (that culminated in the creation of the United Nations), the Fairmont San Francisco boasts a storied and extensive history. is stunning hotel was home to the rst bar in San Francisco post-prohibition, the rst place where Tony Bennett sang his illustrious “I Le My Heart in San Francisco”, and employs America’s rst concierge, Tom Wolfe. If you’re a history bu , lover of luxury or simply want a quintessential San Francisco experience – the Fairmont San Francisco is for you.

Explore

While 48 hours may not seem like a lot of time (because it isn’t), there’s enough time to get a taste for what San Francisco has to o er. ings you’ll need: Comfortable shoes, a Ly or Uber app, and an empty stomach.

Chinatown & North Beach

From the Fairmont San Francisco, head north to Chinatown. Whether you stop and explore or simply walk through is up to you, but if you’re inclined to make a stop – don’t miss the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. is tiny “factory” draws big crowds, and the best times to go are between 9am and 2pm. Continuing north towards Washington Square and the North Beach neighborhood, your next stop is Molinari Delicatessen. Established in 1896, Molinari’s is one of the oldest delis in the United States and a must for lunch. Grab the grilled focaccia sandwich special (stu ed with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, sun dried tomatoes and sweet peppers)

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and head to Washington Square for a people-watching picnic. Did I mention they sell cold beer?

Fisherman’s Wharf

From Washington Square, head northeast to Coit Tower to burn o the cheese and carbs (or simply snap a pic of the famous lookout from a distance). Continuing north, head down to Pier 33 and slowly make your way along the Embarcadero towards Fisherman’s Wharf. If time allows, stop at Pier 41’s Boudin Bakery – famous for their sourdough loaves. Your lunch will be a distant memory once you catch a whi of the rising bread baking on site.

A visit to Fisherman’s Wharf will assault your senses, and you may want to make it quick. Fisherman’s Wharf is packed with chain restaurants, throngs of tourists and endless gi shops. Don’t miss the sunbathing sea lions, a delight to watch (and listen to) as they jostle, spar and bark for their territory on the docks. Don’t let the tourist-heavy element put you o - the sunset catamaran cruises that depart from Fisherman’s Wharf provide jawdropping views of the Golden Gate bridge, Alcatraz and San Francisco Skyline, and are well worth it.

Feeling adventurous? Grab an electric scooter parked at Fisherman’s Wharf and scoot to dinner. Heading west from Fisherman’s Wharf along Bay Street, you’ll quickly trade the tourists for lululemon wearing locals in the Marina district. Try the patio at the Tipsy Pig, or tuck into the infamous burger at Causwell’s. Feel like more Italian? A16 is known for

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having some of the best pizza and small plates in San Francisco. Grab a Bottle and a Box (aka a pie and a bottle of wine to go) and head down to Crissy Field’s East Beach for stunning Golden Gate bridge views and lengthy walking trails.

A er soaking in some quintessential San Francisco views, grab an Uber back to your hotel and cap o your rst day in San Francisco with a nightcap. Another historic (and kitschy) watering hole that you can’t miss is the Tonga Room, located inside the Fairmont San Francisco. is 76-year-old tiki bar was once the hotel pool and comes complete with rain-showers and piped in thunder. While the schmaltz is over the top and the cocktails on the pricey side, the menu of Polynesian fare is perfect for a happy hour nibble.

For your second (and nal) day in San Francisco, visit a few more of the neighborhoods that help give San Francisco its charm – but before you do, there’s brunch. Mymy o ers everything from Challah French Toast and Crab Cake Benedict to your basic omelets and toast. Located at the corner of California and Larkin Street in Nob Hill, this small family-run restaurant is well worth the wait.

Haight-Ashbury & e Castro

Home to the Hippy movement of the 1960’s and the original Flower People, the Haight is full of vintage shops, bookstores, independent co ee shops and more. Retrace the steps of the famous artists who ocked here to get their creative

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juices owing (among them John Lennon and Yoko Ono).

Grab some provisions at the Haight Street Market and head north to Alamo Square and the Painted Ladies. ese famous and colorful Victorian-style homes are one of the most photographed destinations in San Francisco, and are also referred to as ‘Postcard Row’.

A quick Uber (or scenic 25-minute walk south) will bring you to the Castro, synonymous with LGBTQ history and culture. Stroll the Rainbow Walk, inlaid with sidewalk plaques honoring LGBTQ activists. You can’t visit e Castro without acknowledging its most famous and in uential resident, Harvey Milk. e rst openly gay elected o cial, Milk was a champion of gay rights until his assassination in 1978. His legacy lives on, and his former business (Castro Camera) at 575 Castro was painstakingly restored for the 2008 Academy-Award-winning movie based on his life.

Take in the history at the GLBT Museum, the rst stand-alone museum dedicated to gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender history in the United States (and second in the world). Imbibe at Twin Peaks, the rst gay bar in the city (and some would argue the United States). Everywhere you look you’ll nd welcoming rainbow ags, quirky shops (don’t miss the aptly named Does Your Mother Know) and plenty of dining options.

Your nal evening in San Francisco will depend on your interests, the

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season and day of the week you happen to be visiting. A tour of Alcatraz at night is su ciently spooky, fascinating and without the same number of crowds that daylight brings. A sunset bike ride across the Golden Gate bridge will get your adrenaline pumping amidst stunning views. Want to pair dining, romance, and an outdoor movie? Foreign Cinema in the Mission District o ers all three, with a heated and covered outdoor patio, glowing string lights and old movies projected onto a blank brick wall. While the ambiance is a 10 (everyone looks great in ickering candlelight) the food equally delivers, with a Californiainspired menu, ights of wine and inventive cocktails.

Departure

While 48 hours may not be enough time to make a pilgrimage to Napa Valley, don’t fret. e San Francisco International Airport has you covered. Yes, really. e Napa Farms Market o ers two outposts (one in the domestic Terminal 2 and another in the International terminal) and has been named ‘Best Airport Restaurant’ by Food & Wine Magazine. It’s truly Farm to Flight fare, o ering everything from fresh pizza and grilled paninis to pasta and salads. Representing the best in local Napa artisans and suppliers, travelers can grab bottles of local wine, hand made cheese, small-batch chocolate, breads, preserves and more. Do not get on your ight without stopping here rst. You’ve been warned.

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High on a hill, it calls to me

To be where little cable cars climb halfway to the stars

The morning fog may chill the air, I don’t care My love waits there in San Francisco

Tony Bennett - I Left My Heart in San Francisco

Rediscover Travel

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In the upcoming year, let’s rediscover adventure.

As a travel writer, my job is to be inquisitive. To be curious. To look for the story hidden within the minutiae. is year, when the world all but stopped and our lives’ regularly scheduled programs were put on hold, all our norms were questioned.

How close is too close? Are we sanitizing properly? Are face masks the new accessory?

With the borders closed, planes grounded, and suitcases unpacked, life in a world without travel was obscure to me. Only, our world wasn’t necessarily without travel.

As a travel writer—a relatively inquisitive, curious person—it should have been obvious. Travel isn’t just about venturing to places

across the globe, but rather nding the adventures in a given moment, wherever we are.

It took the world shutting down for me to see the beauty that hides in the shadows of what we take for granted—our home countries.

If you ask any avid traveler, many of them will have a hard time telling you where their favorite place is. is is because we recognize that there is beauty within every destination.

Travel in 2020 and leading into 2021 is about learning to embrace adventure near and far, supporting our local communities, and nding ways to be curious in the age of COVID. It is about re-envisioning our de nition of travel.

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Explore Local: A Change of Mentality

Globally, the tourism industry is su ering. e best way to help this is to start locally, as our small communities are in need of our support now more than ever.

For me, I had to change my mentality about being home. Home always felt comfortable. It was the same. I felt like I knew everything I could because I’ve lived here my whole life.

When I venture to a new country, I immediately feel the urge to explore every nook and cranny—to push the boundaries of my comfort zone. As opposed to when I’m home and my curious nature seems to take a backseat.

So, I shi ed my mentality. I strived to nd local gems. I explored more of my home country in 8 months than I have in my entire life. I found new favorite co ee shops, swim holes, waterfalls, bridges, hiking trails, and hole-in-the-wall diners that I never knew existed.

Soon enough, that exploring local mentality seeped into other aspects of my life—shopping and eating. Rather than consuming products and food from big box stores and chains, when possible, I supported the little guys.

In 2021, challenge yourself to take time to map out 3+ new spots close to home that you’ve never explored. Do your research and go on an adventure, just as you would when you’re on trip.

Be Curious: A Taste of Travel

Half of traveling is about being curious. It’s about asking questions and nding stories.

2020 was a year of turmoil. From the pandemic to the Black Lives Matter movement, we saw uproar, but we also saw upli ing passion, demand for change, and movements that sought to change not only the minds but hearts of individuals across the globe.

e Black Lives Matter movement took over many of our streets and feeds, challenging our thoughts, laws, and societal norms.

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e phrase, “I don’t see color” was challenged with the reply of, “see me and my culture.”

As humans, we will never know everything about anything. is coming year be curious and strive to learn. Listen, watch, and read stories about people, places, and their history.

Whether it’s weekly, monthly or even just once, try inviting a new culture into your kitchen by playing with recipes from around the world.

Transport yourself to a di erent country by exploring new spices, vegetables, and dishes. If you’re not much of a chef, order in! Simply because we’re in our own spaces, doesn’t mean we can’t get a taste of travel.

Keep Hopeful, Keep Planning

One day, the world will reopen. As much as I urge you to embrace the now, I also encourage you to keep hopeful for the future. A time when we are able to support other communities, as well as our own.

In my case, planning trips and researching destinations is therapeutic. I love the process. I love getting excited. ough this is a lesson in patience, one day, our research and planning will pay o . When that day comes, be ready.

Life is a careful balance of planning for the future, learning from the past, and being in the now.

Take this time to figure out new things you like to do—and then incorporate these things into your future travel.

Do you like to dance? Virtually learn to waltz and when you go to Vienna, waltz the night away.

Do you enjoy reading Shakespeare? Get lost in some of his works and map out the locations from his plays to make the ultimate Shakespearean getaway.

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Photographing the Suri

Photographing the Suri has become something of an obsession, not just for me, but for many tourists and photographers, eager for a glimpse at a world beyond the imagination, untouched by modern civilization. There has also been a lot of criticism of those photographing indigenous tribes. There is no simple answer to the question of cultural appropriation or appropriateness. The photographer and the subject – in my opinion - are the best judge of the true value of their exchange.

ROSE, SURI | I brought two dozen roses from Addis Abbas and knowing they were not indigenous to the region left them on the side. The subject plucked a bud from the bouquet and placed it in his mouth.

LEAF, SURI | Look closely and you will see the plastic beads, details in the jewelry and belt; reminders of the encroaching world, a close three day drive away from us.

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I made three trips over four years to visit the tribes. Each time, along with my guide, driver, guard and young daughter we endured days of traveling over bumpy roads, sometimes cross-terrain to reach our destinations. I spent long hours, looking out the window, watching the scenery go by and contemplating my motivation for coming to Ethiopia. Each time I returned to the same answer, ‘to better understand the world we inhabit.’ These people, considered primitive to many, offer a simpler and perhaps more profound view of life, one that we could all take a lesson.

CRISSCROSS, SURI | As if looking into the eyes of a dancer, the subject commanded the frame. I followed his rhythm. Many of these images are dance between the subject and my camera.

BACK, SURI | This image, the first shot of the day, captures a tentative moment between the subject and me. I had met him earlier at the riverside where he used rocks to ground minerals into paint and stamped his skin with a flower stem paint brushan expert artist.

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The Suri images, Artifice Traces, are a departure from classic photo-ethnography. The use of the black backdrop deliberately removes the subject from cliché notions of tribal life. In essence the photographs are performances, choreographed by the Suri, celebrations of their transient masterpieces and proud culture.

GHOST, SURI | We were losing the glorious afternoon sunlight quickly when the subject lifted the blanket over his head and pulled it close to his chest. I had the feeling that I had been transported to theatrical stage and was being beckoned to hear his story.

WATERCOLOR, SURI | The transience of the body painting, its impermanence, the details, one stroke of paint, create a visual language that belies language.

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER

A native New Yorker, Wendy Bednarz travels the globe with her two children. They currently reside in the United Arab Emirates where Wendy is a filmmaker and an Associate Arts Professor of Film and New Media at New York University, Abu Dhabi.

“I am a visual thinker and I find photography a natural way to communicate. My eye is drawn to the human form and my photographic intention is to make highly evocative images that capture the subject’s underlying spirit. Photography is my way of interpreting the world and making a commentary about what I see and feel.”

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A TRAVEL TREND TO WATCH

As the pandemic wages on, many of us are struggling to nd an answer to the question: When will I safely be able to travel again?

Well, that question is hard to answer. But the good news is you can travel safely right now - and with minimal packing. Grab your backpack, toothbrush, camera and - your bike. Bikepacking will be one of the fastest growing (socially distanced) travel trends of 2021. Bikepacking allows you to explore remote areas, ways to capture the wonder of a backcountry hike or an o -the-beaten track trek.

You can opt for a quick weekend trip or a more involved week-long trek and plan to camp in-between stops overnight or bike from one hotel to another each night. And the best part? You can most likely use the bike you already own. e leap from your favorite long ride to taking a bikepacking trip isn’t enormous, so here is a little guidance to help you navigate the ‘where’, ‘when’, ‘how’s’.

WHAT TO RIDE

e bicycle you have will likely be just ne and will help determine what kind of trip you go on, but don’t come to bikepacking thinking that you need to buy a new bicycle for it. If you have a road racing bike, you can explore dirt roads and some smooth doubletrack, and maybe even some light singletrack where you can happily underbike. (Underbiking is when you intentionally ride a bike that is less capable than what is optimal on that terrain). If your bike is a full suspension mountain bike, that’s great, too, and maybe you’ll look for chances to bikepack on fairly demanding singletrack linking up various riding areas with a minimal amount of road riding in between.

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Decide how much time you have rst. He recommends making the rst few trips two-nighters. Perhaps check out of work early on Friday, ride all day Saturday, and then return home by Sunday evening. Want to get peddling this weekend? Joe can share a few go-to routes (varying degrees) for any corner of the US.

For example, you can try the Finger Lakes Overnighter, an approachable multi-surface 62-mile loop that’s perfect for families or those with limited bikepacking experience. Have a little more time to getaway? You can try the Michigan North Country Traverse, a fantastic 4-6 day adventure o ering remote trails, lush river corridors, old growth forest, and everything great about Northern Michigan.

WHERE TO GO GEAR TO PACK

GPS: e last thing you want is to be lost at sunset. Joe relies for the Karoo to keep him on track. Most cycling computers are pretty similar in the data they are able to monitor (they have Bluetooth capabilities and are fairly compact). Where the Karoo stands out is their mapping features - you are able to create and plan any route ahead of time to explore new areas but this one even allows you to reroute on the y if needed.

Clothing: Joe’s top packing piece of advice? Do not over pack. For an overnighter you might want to wear fresh chamois for the second or third day, but the rest of the kit can be worn again. But don’t leave behind a rain jacket, spare socks, and some light packable clothing to wear at camp. If it’s likely to be chilly, bring a compact pu y jacket or vest.

Tools + Bike Gear: It’s better to be over prepared than under. ink - headlamp, tire patches and glue, a rear blinker, your ID. Joe can detail the other necessities to make room for in your bags.

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Bucket Worthy Overwater Bungalows

Nothing quite says luxury like an overwater bungalow. Dotting tropical beaches, atolls and lagoons, these thatched-roof escapes o er unparalleled views and the ultimate in island escape-ism. From Bora Bora to Vietnam, these opulent overwater bungalows need to be added to your bucket list – stat.

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay, Vietnam

Six Senses properties are ubiquitous with sustainability and wellness, and the Six Senses Ninh Van Bay delivers both in spades. Moving beyond resorts as simply destination getaways, Six Senses promotes connection to the places in which they host guests. is is evident at their Ninh Van Bay property, with the property’s villas thoughtfully built into rock formations, as to create minimal disturbance to the surrounding eco-system. Each villa is secluded, the only person you’re likely to run into is your personal Experience Maker, on call 24/7. Ocean views come guaranteed, as do private pools. Local activities are endless, from day trips to nearby uninhabited islands, taking a dip in the local hot springs (complete with mineral-rich mud), or even sampling the goods from your in-villa wine cellar on your private sundeck.

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Song Saa Private Island, Cambodia

Nestled in the middle of the Koh Rong archipelago, this unique private island o ers 24 thatched-roof villas set amidst a 247-acre marine reserve. Unsurprisingly, nature and sustainability are at the forefront and nearly every building and piece of furniture uses up-cycled wood found on the island itself. Alongside the resident marine biologist, guests can kayak through mangroves as they learn about the local eco-system. e overwater villas do not disappoint, with luxurious one and two-bedroom options. For the ultimate overwater experience, there’s the Royal Villa that comes complete with a large private pool and dining for up to 12 guests. e most unique aspect of Song Saa Private Island is its related foundation, the Song Saa Collective. Established in 2013, this not-for-pro t organization is dedicated to protecting the habitat of the Koh Rong archipelago and improve the welfare of its communities.

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El Dorado Maroma, Mexico

If you’re based in North America you don’t have to travel far to experience overwater bungalows that are set out from the shores of Maroma Beach, just forty minutes from the Cancun International Airport. Mexico’s only overwater bungalows come equipped with full butler service and glass oors, with room service breakfast being delivered each morning. Touting themselves as ‘Gourmet Inclusive’, the El Dorado Maroma is an adults-only property o ering seven restaurants and ve bars. Don’t miss strolling Maroma Beach, nearly ve miles of unspoiled white sand and aquamarine water.

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Four Seasons Resort, Bora Bora

With stunning views of Mount Otemanu, the Four Seasons Resort in Bora Bora does not disappoint. ere are a variety of overwater bungalow options to suit everyone from honeymooners to families, with two-bedroom suites o ering up over 2,000 square feet of pure luxury. Non-motorized water sports are included in your stay, o ering everything from badminton and volleyball to kayaks, stand-up-paddle boards and snorkel equipment. Adventures abound, from jet boating or deep-sea shing with a chef to exploring the island on a 4x4 (additional costs apply). e ve-star concierge team can arrange just about anything, and never hesitate to go above and beyond for their guests.

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Gili Lankanfushi, Maldives

While overwater bungalows are aplenty in the Maldives, there are some that stand out from the crowd. With only 45 overwater bungalows, Gili Lankanfushi is perched on one of the largest lagoons in the Maldives and a 20-minute speedboat ride from the Velana International Airport. e “No News No Shoes” spirit of the Maldives is evident from the moment guests step into the boat from the airport, as shoes are collected and placed in tote bags by sta aboard the vessel. Expect approachable luxury at every turn, beginning with the bubbly and canapes that greet you on arrival. oughtful touches are evident throughout, with SPF and bug spray stocked alongside standard in-room amenities. e bungalows themselves range from 2200 square foot one-bedroom villas (their smallest) to the whopping Private Reserve, a palatial 18,000 square feet. If you’re seeking opulence in the Maldives, look no further.

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Bangkok is a hub unlike any other, full of energy, old world charm, and famous ai hospitality. e local way of life is just as beautiful as the ancient temples and parks that have drawn visitors for centuries. As the capital of ailand, most travelers touch down in this epic metropolis before heading to regional destinations, but there is so much value in staying to experience the hub. Whether you have two days or two weeks, make sure to do a little research and indulge in as many culinary o erings as you physically can.

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WHERE TO WANDER:

Blurred with tiny side streets, Bangkok’s neighborhoods are diverse, and maneuvering them can be a little chaotic. Before exploring a country, it’s important to gain insight into the local cultures and customs. Skip Google and start your trip with a visit to Museum Siam for an informative and interactive exploration of “ ainess.” Located right next to the Grand Palace and the Bangkok Flower Market, you’ll be able to check o some must-sees while in the neighborhood. I also enjoyed Chinatown (Yaowarat) - the street food scene is unparalleled and the 5.5 tonne Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit is worth a visit.

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WHERE TO STAY: e Sukhothai Bangkok

I’m a sucker for a dramatic, landscaped driveway and fragrant, palatial lobby. Luckily, the Sukhothai Bangkok o ers both, in addition to the modern luxury one would expect from a celebrated hotel. Yet, the details go far beyond what I expected. While portions of the outdoor grounds are inspired by the famed ancient temple that shares its name (monuments rising from lotus ponds are but one example), the indoor decor blends teak, marble carvings, and hundreds of meters of ai silk throughout its rooms and halls. e Club rooms are simply elegant and feature oor-to-ceiling window views and stunning, mirror-lined bathrooms. ere is a magnetism to the Sukhothai that extends beyond a place to sleep.

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Palm Springs Palm Springs

Warm Winters and Hot Design

Palm Springs is o cially hip once more, as a new troupe of design enthusiasts rediscover its mid-century architecture. Zoey Goto headed over to California’s desert outpost for the Modernism Week Preview, to soak up its sunshine and vintage-vibes.

There are few cities on earth that tantalize the eye quite like Palm Springs. Cruising into this quirky city, via the bonedry desert, it soon becomes clear that Palm Springs simply refuses to do bad buildings; whether it’s the high-impact housing of the rich and famous, or the mundane everyday buildings of nger-lickin’ drive-thrus, gas stations, banks or sci- -tastic convenience stores, everywhere the eye lands o ers up a design masterclass.

is wealth of monumental design is now celebrated twice a year, at the

11-day Modernism Week Festival (February 11-21) and its condensed 4-day preview in October (modernismweek.com). In normal times, the main event attracts over 150,000 sun-seeking design enthusiasts, with a jam-packed schedule of talks, parties, vintage sales, lm screenings and openhouse tours, where you can peek inside perfectly preserved midcentury homes. e overall tone is fun and accessible, aiming to appeal to anyone with an interest in vintage culture, rather than just catering for architecture a cionados. is February Modernism Week has moved the festival online, giving

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audiences a avor of the festival without having to leave the comfort of their homes, with the postponed in-person event planned for April.

Palm Springs’ revival must warm the heart of its 47,000 residents. e city initially had its heyday during the Golden Era of Hollywood, when it became a playground for movie stars, a er the studios decided they wanted their artists within a twohour radius of the set at all times. 100 miles to the east of LA and deep in the heart of the desert, Palm Springs o ered A-listers the perfect retreat for privacy and relaxation. Elvis honeymooned here in the radical ‘House of Tomorrow’, JFK fell for Marilyn in this palm tree lined paradise, and e Rat Pack crooned and clinked martinis in the historic Racquet Club district.

When Palm Springs’ star faded in the 80s and 90s “you couldn’t give

these homes away” laughs Marty Danielson, a 78 year old resident who has opened up his stunning mid-century home for visitors as part of the Modernism Week Preview. “ ere were streets of modernist homes boarded up. It was like a ghost town,” he recalls, as a steady stream of curious visitors amble through his perfectly preserved 1959 abode, past the original Eames chairs and stainless steel chandeliers.

Like many of the Palm Springs homes, Marty’s is in the Desert Modernism style. is branch of mid-century architecture was in uenced by the German Bauhaus but adapted to the sunny climes of California, with clean simple lines, at roofs, living spaces that seamlessly merge indoor and outdoor, and an attempt to re ect the dramatic mountains surrounding

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Sinatra House

Palm Springs. Starchitects such as Albert Frey, William F. Cody and Donald Wexler, along with the Alexander Construction Company who built vast estates of modernist houses between 1955 and 1965, attempted to create something far more ambitious than just housing; instead o ering the dawn of a new American lifestyle, with an emphasis on leisure time and cocktail hour out by the pool.

As luck would have it, when the city fell out of fashion it became its saving grace, as vast tracts of modernist homes were saved from demolition – not because they were particularly valued at the time, but because they were rarely thought about second homes. Palm Springs managed to preserve the highest concentration of mid-century homes in the world, and residents such as Marty, a former lecturer at Parsons

School of Design in New York, have migrated to the city bringing a renewed energy and appreciation for the mid-century way of life. “I wake up every morning and think I’m so glad I live here, with all of this beautiful design and weather” he smiles, gesturing out towards the succulent-lined back yard, with its turquoise pool and private views of the San Jacinto Mountains.

Along with the manicured hand of gentri cation, the make up of the city has also shi ed in recent years. Modern day Palm Springs now boasts a thriving LGBTQ+ community, with an estimated 55% of its residents identifying as nonhetero, and hosts year-round events such as the hedonistic White Party weekend, plus the world’s largest lesbian festival, e Dinah.

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Wexler Steel House

In the winter months, with temperatures still hovering in the early-twenties, Palm Springs attracts snowbird retirees migrating from the northern states to bask in the 350 days of glorious sunshine.

ere’s also been a recent in ux of millennials, who have discovered the city via the nearby Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, and from overnighters at hipster hotels such as e Ace or the Jonathan Adler designed Parker Palm Springs, with its insta-worthy lobby lled with pop art. A love of good design, good weather and good times permeates the city.

On the nal day of my visit I take a walking tour, organized by the Palm Springs Historical Society. As we gossip with the tour guide Kathy about Zsa Zsa Gábor’s extreme frugality and swing by the Rat Pack haunt Melvyn’s restaurant, where you can still get Ol’ Blue Eyes favorite dish of Steak Diane, I felt as if I’d entered a seductive time warp, a glamorized take on a bygone era.

e worries of the outside world just melted away amidst this cheerful, Utopian oasis. For a dose of hazy, gorgeous, technicolor nostalgia, it was utter bliss.

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e Best Hotels For Design-Lovers

L’Horizon Resort & Spa

Originally created in 1952 by renowned architect William F. Cody, the hotel is now frequented by the likes of fashion designer Tom Ford and has been voted one of America’s top hotels.

lhorizonpalmsprings.com

Ace Hotel & Swim Club is laid-back resort was originally a mid-century motel and Denny’s Diner, and the redesign takes its retro heritage into account.

acehotel.com

Art Hotel is new kid on the block hotel was created by designer Tracy Turco and o ers 8 live/work studios, set around a turquoise pool. Local artists have been dra ed in to deck the walls with retro designs, plus each room has its own vintage vinyl record player.

arthotelps.com

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