When sinking in life’s unyielding wave of technology, disconnect from the rush and slip into island-time. Cast off with The Moorings, let your worries melt away, remember how to live in the moment—one nautical mile at a time.
JUNE DAGNALL, SHEP DANIELS, ZOEY GOTO, TOM JAMES, ANDREW MARSHALL, WILL PETERSON, DANIELLA SCHOEMAN, MATTHEW SCHUELLER, SYLVIA TENNANT
STEVE DRAKE, DISCOVER PUERTO RICO, ZOEY GOTO, ANDRE MARSHALL, PAUL MARSHALL, WILL PETERSON, DANIELLA SCHOEMAN, PATRICK SCHNEIDER, MATTHEW SCHUELLER, SYLVIA TENNANT, ROB TIPTON, THE SEA PINES RESORT
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BY SYLVIA TENNANT
A true Croatian gem, with old world charm and modern luxury
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World class golf courses and delicious dining experiences
BY WILL PETERSON
BY ZOEY GOTO
Widely considered the most beautiful city in the U.S
Unbelievable back-country in Super Natural British Columbia 60
Diverse landscapes, incredible natural beauty and of course, wine
Undeniably vibrant destination that welcomes LGBTQ+ travelers 66
BY TOM JAMES
Spain’s surrealist city of Figueres, Catalunya is a must see before you die
BY SHEP DANIELS
Frothy sea mist danced around us from the turquoise-colored surf as our boat plunged through the ocean swells to Palomino Island, just off Puerto Rico’s northeast coast. Guests like us staying at El Conquistador Resort receive complimentary ferry transportation to the tropical oasis. We spent the day lounging under tall coconut trees while enjoying mojitos from the bar service, wading into the ocean for cooling dips, and walking around the island’s sandy perimeter while soaking in the gorgeous scenery.
I had been to Puerto Rico several times before, and it never gets old. Nor does one run out of new things to experience. An everpresent warmth caresses one’s skin (the temperature typically is rarely below 69°F or above 91°F), while a welcoming vibe from predominantly bilingual Puerto Ricans – “Boricua” – creates a sense of belonging and appreciation.
Being from a four-season climate, I have primarily traveled to Puerto Rico to soak up the sun, sample various hotels, resorts, and restaurants, play golf, gamble in the many casinos throughout the island, and enjoy the seemingly endless beaches and pools.
But when it comes to planning an island vacation in Puerto Rico, there are tons of choices, big and small, with strong arguments to be made for just about every spot. The many options are good and varied for lodging, entertainment and especially food, with something for every taste and budget.
There are more than 4,000 restaurants here and I haven’t had a disappointing meal yet in my nearly one-half dozen visits.
Puerto Rico’s restaurant scene thrives from San Juan to Cabo Rojo, from Rincón to Fajardo — and all points in between. The culinary delectations range from classic comida criolla (the island’s unique style of creole cooking) to tropical fusions created by award-winning chefs. Whether you’re looking for a casual chinchorro (roadside kiosk), local hot spots, food trucks, finedining, or even a pizza or steak, you won’t be disappointed. As they say in Puerto Rico, a full belly makes for a happy heart.
While you’ll find a variety of cuisines around the Island, many local restaurants are known to serve specialty dishes of the region. The eateries in the mountains of Puerto Rico showcase various meat cuts, and restaurants like ASAO in Ciales or Asador San Miguel in Naranjito should be your go-to places if you’re looking to savor a juicy steak.
Craving seafood, Puerto Rico’s coastal areas have a fresh array of plates to try. Take a trip to the east coast and restaurant-hop down the Luquillo Kiosks line. In the north, savor a plate of deep-fried red snapper with some tostones or arroz mamposteao at Salitre in Arecibo.
Puerto Rico has as many local beer brands as it has breathtaking ocean views. I’m partial to Medalla Light. It is refreshing and the most popular beer on the island. It has its own bar in Old San Juan, Taberna Medalla, as well as a sports bar at Distrito T- Mobile.
Distrito T-Mobile is San Juan’s new premier entertainment hub. With more than a dozen places to eat, an urban park, state-of-the-art technology, and open spaces, the trendy spot is ideal for experiencing Puerto Rican art, flavors, music, dance, and adventure. Everything is within walking distance. Think of it as the Caribbean Times Square under a roof.
Back to beer – Puerto Rican beers brews are easily accessible at restaurants, pubs, bars, and microbreweries throughout the island, and are often highlighted on menus and specials boards.
Beyond beer, rum has a special place in the island. The piña colada was invented in Puerto Rico. To best appreciate rum’s craftsmanship and history, there are multiple distilleries one can visit. On this trip, we chose Casa BACARDÍ. We started with a “welcome cocktail,” followed that with a history tour, then finished with a rum tasting. In the gift shop, you can bottle your own premium rum directly from the barrel.
For a smaller-scale rum distillery and experience, consider Hacienda Santa Ana. It harkens back in time to the late 1800s and walks visitors through the production process of Ron del Barrilito, the craft cocktail scene’s favorite small production rum.
The island has an excellent collection of golf courses, 18 in total, many of them on or near the ocean. El Yunque, the spectacular rain forest, can be seen from several top layouts. Course designers include many of the game’s great golf architects, including Greg Norman, Robert Trent Jones Sr., Robert Trent
Several of the island’s courses rank among the best in the Caribbean. They range from luxury resort to municipal, spread throughout Puerto Rico with several clustered near historic San Juan. Price points, terrain, layout style, and related amenities are varied and complementary.
Dorado Beach, Bahia Beach, Grand Reserve – where the PGA Tour hosts the Puerto Rico Open each year – Rio Mar, Palmas, Costa Caribe, and Royal Isabela are some of the most well-known golf resorts and courses in the island. I’ve played them all, and having played golf around the world, I can vouch for their high-quality.
One of the things I love most about golf beside playing the game is being outdoors and enjoying nature and beautiful scenery. Puerto Rico is perhaps the most gorgeous, unspoiled environment I’ve experienced.
It’s no wonder given Puerto Rico is home to a variety of natural habitats including mangrove islands, rain forests, coral reefs, salt flats, unique karst zones, and caves. The island has 36 nature reserves, three rare bio-luminescent bays, and of course El Yunque, the only rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. Spanning 28,000 acres and home to more than 240 types of trees, it also has more than two dozen waterfalls, unique bird species, and native species like the coquí frog, which is a favorite of mine. The coquí frog “sings” a special song each
evening, a tropical serenade with an otherworldly feel.
Most people visiting the island fly into capital San Juan’s Luis Munoz International Airport (SJU). Puerto Rico has 117 daily nonstop flights to major cities throughout the United States and does not require a passport for U.S. citizens to enter.
Airlines that fly between Puerto Rico and the USA are American Airlines, Delta, JetBlue, Southwest, United, Frontier, Spirit, and Sun Country Airlines.
Located on the northeastern coast, San Juan is the leading gateway to the Eastern Caribbean. Several airlines operate over 60 daily flights to over 12 destinations in the Caribbean. Airlines that fly to and from San Juan to the Caribbean include Cape Air, Air Antilles, JetBlue, Tradewind Aviation, Silver Airways, Intercaribbean Airways, Frontier, and Air Flamenco.
To Latin America, there are two flights to Panamá City, Panamá and daily flights to Bogotá, Colombia.
From Europe, there are weekly nonstop flights from Madrid, Spain.
The other airport with international flights is the Rafael Hernández Airport (BQN) in Aguadilla, in the northwest region of Puerto Rico. Though smaller than the SJU, this hangar receives commercial flights from major airlines such as Jet Blue, Frontier Airlines, Spirit Airlines, United Airlines, and private charters.
The Mercedita International Airport (PSE) in Ponce receives a handful of commercial flights from the mainland U.S., mainly from cities like Orlando and New York City, with services from JetBlue and Spirit Airlines. Smaller than SJU and BQN, Mercedita is ideal if your time on the island is mostly in the south region.
If flying isn’t your thing, the San Juan Cruise Port is ranked among the top 20 in the world, and other ports around the island offer easy access to sightseeing, dining, local culture, and more. Most of the cruises that visit Puerto Rico are three- to seven-day voyages, which includes one day to enjoy the island (not enough time to discover its array of charms).
Lodging options abound in Puerto Rico and include paradors (small hotels) located in a nature reserve; luxury resorts; a glamping ecoretreat nestled in a bird sanctuary; vacation rentals near the beach or in the mountains; modern hotels in the middle of a bustling entertainment district; or historic properties in Old San Juan surrounded by restaurants, local shops, and bars.
I’ve primarily stayed in the superb resorts in the island, including Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve, St. Regis Bahia Beach, Wyndham Grand Rio Mar, and, of course, El Conquistador on this latest visit.
During our four-night stay at “El Con” – perched hundreds of feet about sea level on the extreme
northeast coast – we were graced with beautiful sunsets bursting with shades of orange and lavender during the golden hours. My room was simple but superb – as I prefer –the better to feel the place where I’m staying. The sea views extended as far as the eye could see and included Palomino Island below.
I loved sitting on the private patio and soaking it all in during the quiet morning hours. It also provided perfect evening ambiance to enjoy a nightcap with friends and anticipate what new excitement was in store for us the next day.
At bedtime, I’d lay contentedly thinking about each day and the discoveries we experienced. I rarely got far in my review, however, as the sound of rhythmic ocean waves blissfully ushered me into dreamland.
Puerto Rico has that way about it - a soul-stirring essence that keeps me coming back.
On the edge of the glittering Adriatic Sea lies a jewel of a city and a pair of noteworthy properties that are a traveler’s dream.
The commanding walls of Dubrovnik’s Old Town are infinitely more striking in person, and within their daunting rows and polished cobblestones lie an ancient oasis of cultural delight. An inviting maze of torch lit alleys hosts a thoughtful sprinkle of historical hot spots and modern day indulgences. The captivating energy of this place is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.
Centuries of travelers have vacationed along the Croatian coastline, and the accommodations have only better with time. Although a fabulous mega yacht would be an iconic place to lay our heads, Hotel Excelsior is absolutely the next best option. This five-star villa is
minutes away by foot from the East Gate entrance to Old Town and has arguably the most epic view of the fortress walls. Seaside swimming from a private beach area is made even sweeter with full service amenities and excellent cocktails. Wainscotted rooms with luxurious fabrics and lighting have welcomed everyone from Liz Taylor to Queen Elizabeth II, and there are floors of lounge areas to relax, work, or indulge. If you feel called to dine in one evening, I highly recommend a meal on the patio at Sensus. This fine dining restaurant is highly acclaimed and well known for their creative dishes. Ask for local wine pairings - the Korta Katarina Pošip is so good that I’m desperately trying to import it.
The present-day iteration of this fine medieval city is a crash course in historical preservation. It hosts a cluster of Michelin-starred restaurants, including Taj Mahal, which serves notably inspiring Bosnian fare. Stroll alongside fellow gelato-armed tourists through guided experiences, then beat the heat and hit Banje Beach for a Campari Spritz. If you’re lucky, you may catch a seaside water polo game, complete with drumming, enthusiastic fans, and passionate sportsmanship.
Should you feel the call away from the crowds, the idyllic town of Cavtat is a nearby treasure and a quick 20-minute drive from Old Town. The epitome of European ease, this lush harbor destination centers around a glittering bay with
easily accessible swimming spots and a revolving row of extremely fancy boats. Though we narrowly missed running into Jay Z and Beyoncé (they were spotted in Cavtat the day we arrived), we did enjoy an incredible stay at the newly renovated Hotel Supetar, a 16-suite heritage property. A highlight of our trip, the sophisticated boutique hotel solidified our love of this quiet, unpretentious town. Mornings by the private pool and afternoons wandering the pine-lined peninsula were capped with a sunset cocktail and swim at the beach bar Little Star, followed by dinner al fresco on Supetar’s terrace. Lively cocktail bars and excellent people-watching are close by on the promenade, but the hotel’s rooms and amenities are so luxurious that an early night in feels equally as exciting.
Dubrovnik is a world-class destination rich in kindness and culture, which mimics our entire experience of the Dalmatian coast. Should you find yourself drawn to this gorgeous country, know that you’ll be hosted wonderfully in a place with plenty to discover, just waiting to reward those who wander.
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BY: MATTHEW SCHUELLER
Key West, located at the southernmost point of the Florida Keys, is a vibrant and welcoming destination for LGBTQ+ travelers. With its laid-back atmosphere, stunning beaches, and rich history, Key West has something to offer for everyone.
Catching a red-eye flight from the west coast, the trip was long but totally worth it as we descended into the aquamarine paradise. The first thing we noticed driving through the historical district was the colorful and quintessentially Caribbean architecture. Tropical pastel colors of lime and rose mixed with wooden lacework patios and awnings that sat behind charming white picket fences adorned with palm trees and heaps of bougainvillea.
One of my favorite things to do when traveling to a new destination, especially one so far from home, is to find a fun local spot to grab a bite to eat. Coming from the Pacific Northwest we were traveling from about as far as you can get from Key West in the continental 48. Key West, being a total of 90 miles from the coast of Cuba, is home to culinary delights such as Cuban coffee, Cuban sandwiches and more. One of my favorite things in the world is coffee, and one of my favorite combinations of flavors in the world is a Cuban sandwich… so naturally I was excited to try each of these in a place so close to their origins. Perhaps a little overly eager, as soon as we dropped our bags off at the hotel pre-check in, we immediately made our way to a cute little coffee shop right off Duval Street aptly named Cuban Coffee Queen. The open-air Caribbean cafe is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner offering a variety of coffees, smoothies, sandwiches and more, all while amongst friendly roaming chickens. The chickens are all over Key West, and quite frankly the location is well-known to be a haven for the fowl. Nonetheless, the chickens are on-site of Cuban Coffee Queen to clean up any messes, or make them! Beyond delicious Cuban-inspired cuisine – conch fritters, grilled lobster, and fish sandwiches are a few of the many delicious dishes you can also find on the island. But really, don’t forget to save room for Key lime pie, a local specialty that you’ll find plenty of around the historic district.
Next it was time to head to one of the top attractions in Key West: Duval Street. The island’s main
thoroughfare, where we explored a variety of restaurants, bars, and shops, as well as the famous Bourbon Street Pub, a popular LGBTQ+ bar that hosts drag shows and other events.
One of the things that attracted us most to Key West was the fact that it’s also home to a number of LGBTQ+ landmarks and events, such as the Rainbow Flag Monument and the annual PrideFest celebration. The Rainbow Flag Monument, located in the center of the island, is a tribute to the LGBTQ+ community and features a rainbow-colored mosaic walkway. PrideFest, held every June, is one of the most popular pride celebrations in the United States and consists of a week-long party that includes parades, drag shows, cocktail parties among many other fancies.
In addition to the vibrant LGBTQ+ culture, Key West is also known for its stunning beaches. Some of the best beaches for sunbathing and swimming include Smathers Beach and Higgs Beach. Both located on the southern edge of the island, each offer unique personalities. Higgs beach has a smaller footprint but is closer to town and a little easier to park at. We saw more families at this beach as there are a few play structures for kids. Though not far away, Smather’s beach is a longer span of seemingly endless white sand with very few amenities readily available; however, the extra space to spread out means a more relaxing experience if your goal is to just enjoy being out on the sand. And what better way to spend your first day in paradise than laying out on the beach?
Though some clouds rolled through the area, it was still dreamily pleasant on the sand. We sat under swaying palms and watched others wade out into the sea. After seeing the sun brim the horizon, we were ready to set our sights on dinner. Since this was our first time in Key West, we asked around and received many recommendations for a particular place that seemed out of the ordinary for a tiny island situated between the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean; a tapas restaurant. Santiago’s Bodega is an eclectic space serving Key West’s best tapas and sangria, both of which were fully enjoyed. Beef carpaccio, brussel sprouts, shrimp and chorizo, croquettas, and patatas bravas are just some of the amazing dishes on the menu. If you find yourself in Key West, put this on your list, but make sure to call ahead and make a reservation unless you’re looking for a quick bite at their bar.
We typically don’t take a lot of time out of our trips to view historical sights, however with how walkable historic Key West is, we decided to take a stroll through some of the rich historical buildings and monuments. The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum, the Harry S. Truman Little White House, and the Key West Lighthouse and Keeper’s Quarters are just a few of the many sites worth visiting. As we made it to the island’s edge, we were greeted with a beautiful view of Sunset Key, one of the most sought-after destinations on the island, particularly for a sunset cruise accompanied by a meal at Latitudes Restaurant. There are many companies that offer sunset cruises, and heading out onto the water grants the chance to perhaps spot some dolphins or whales!
Our visit to Key West was short but sweet, and of course we couldn’t leave without at least trying classic fish and shrimp tacos. Again, by popular recommendation we decided to try Garbo’s Grill at Hanks. This extremely popular taco truck shares an open-air patio adjacent to Hanks Hair of the Dog Saloon, which adds to the fun because not only did we enjoy incredibly zesty shrimp tacos, but we got to appreciate a few drinks along with a show as well! It’s true that Key West really comes alive at night, and starting the evening listening to live music at Hanks alongside a lively crowd was the best way I could imagine ending my trip.
Key West welcomed us with an unforgettable atmosphere, beautiful beaches, and rich culture and history. Whether you’re looking to relax on the beach, explore the island’s history, or party the night away, Key West has something for everyone. We can’t wait to get back to the Florida Keys to discover more of what makes this tiny set of islands so magnetic.
For golfers everywhere, a trip to Hilton Head Island tops their wish lists. The reasons are clear why these courses are the cream of the crop. There are more than 30 courses clustered within the island’s 70-square-miles and sprinkled offisland around historic Bluffton and Beaufort. The next round of golf is never more than a few minutes away, and multi-course resorts such as The
Many of the world class golf courses found on the island are designed by brilliant golf architects such as Pete Dye, Rees Jones, Robert Trent Jones and Jack Nicklaus, offering exciting challenges to players of all
skill levels. Golfers will enjoy ideal weather year-round, and much to do après-golf. End your perfect golfing day with delicious seafood, and local specialties such as gumbo and peach cobbler. Stunning scenery adds to these magnificent and memorable experiences. Here are some of the top courses that appear time and time again at the top of golfers’ bucket lists.
Sea Pines Resort, Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort and The Heritage Collection make 36 holes a day the norm, not the exception.Come and play where the pros play. The epitome of golf on Hilton Head Island is Harbor Town Golf Links. This course places a premium on finesse, imagination and shot making rather than strength. Since 1969, the course has been a regular on the PGA Tour. Designed by Pete Dye, with collaboration from Jack Nicklaus, Harbor Town epitomizes Lowcountry course design complete with live oak-lined corridors, diminutive greens and Dye’s trademark bulkheads lining languid lagoons. The 18th hole is recognized around the world. The iconic par 4 is played with the Calibogue Sound on the left side and the iconic red and white hooped Harbor Town Lighthouse as the backdrop to the green. A photo here is a must for those stories to talk to your friends about once back home.
This is the oldest course at Palmetto Dunes and a long-time favorite on Hilton Head. It is widely considered one of the most scenic and challenging courses in the state. Golfers will experience an extensive lagoon system which winds through the course and impacts play on eleven of the 18 holes. Add to this the famous Jones bunkers and the round will make for very interesting golf. The RTJ course is located right on the Atlantic Ocean and the constantly shifting winds make every hole play differently, providing both challenges and rewards for players of every skill level. The panoramic views of the ocean from the elevated green of the par-5 10th hole will undoubtedly provide golfers with one of their most memorable rounds of golf on Hilton Head. The green is set by the ocean and you will likely need three shots to reach the it when the wind off the Atlantic is blowing in your face.
Just a smooth 3-wood away from Harbor Town is The Sea Pines Resort’s newest offering, Atlantic Dunes by Davis Love III. A complete reconstruction has been done on this ocean course by Love Golf Design via lead architect Scot Sherman. The layout encompasses a reconstruction and recreation of the resort’s historic Ocean Course which was the first golf course built on Hilton Head Island. Thousands of indigenous plants have been installed in these areas to complete the seaside feel accentuated by native grasses and coquina shells scattered throughout. This Lowcountry track features water on almost every hole, and you will be surrounded by beautiful Spanish moss-draped oaks, and lurking gators, if you look close enough. This course provides a true coastal golf experience and is said to have a very upbeat energy feel to it.
This course has a reputation for being tough to beat, and yet impossible not to enjoy. Hilton Head Island’s only par-70 public golf course, the George Fazio Course at Palmetto Dunes is one of the island’s most distinctive and challenging layouts that offers an exhilarating experience and is revered as the island’s truest championship challenge. For beginners and advanced players, the Fazio course offers an exceptional golf experience.
With only two par 5’s, the heart of the course lies in a series of long par 4’s, beginning with the 432-yard first hole and ending with the 462-yard 18th. The tree-lined fairways roll gently on the front nine, while the back nine offers tighter shots that require strategic positioning off the tee. With relatively small greens and undulating surfaces, the Fazio course challenges and delights golfers. A true challenge emerges over the fabulous finishing four holes, where they meet three well-bunkered par 4s and the great par-3 17th over water with out-of-bounds creeping in from the left. With new state-of-the-art Diamond Zoysia greens, the Fazio Course delivers a peak golf experience.
The experience of playing the Arthur Hills Course at Palmetto Hall takes on an added dimension when you discover the golf course was built on an old Civil War garrison. History aside, however, the Hills Course, which opened in 1991, stands proudly as yet another grand achievement by the legendary Ohio-born designer. It opened to glowing reviews and was almost immediately named to Golf Digest’s list as one of “America’s Top 10 New Courses,” awarding the course four stars as one of the best places to play. The course has one of the most distinctive layouts found on Hilton Head Island. Tucked within the serene enclave of Leamington, this shot-maker’s favorite offers continuous lines of dunes, a rolling layout, numerous water hazards and thick stands of palmettos. It emphasizes accuracy and precision over distance, resulting in formidable challenges at every turn. The putting surfaces are well known for their tournament quality year-round.
Featured Artist: Will Peterson
Will is a photographer & engineer based in Salt Lake City, Utah. For Will, cameras are a reminder to enjoy the beauty all around us.
Instagram: @willopeterson
Gear: : Fuji-XT3
A new day brings with it more lakes and portaging. As we explored we kept the bug spray on and the bear spray near .
As we head to see the impressive Hunlen falls. Early morning mist blanketed the falls and held us in anticipation.
In time the fog slowly lifted, revealing the Falls in a breathtaking show. The thundering falls echoed through the canyon.
As we leave, the plane turns, giving us one last view of the Turner Lake chain. A place, and an experience, we will long remember.
Within minutes, the streams gave way to peaks and the stunning Monarch Icefield.
Soon we prepared for our approach into the Turner Lake system. As we passed over, we quickly studied what would be our home for the trip
Upon landing, we were greeted by George, lake host, storyteller, and local encyclopedia. After helping rig up our canoe and giving us the latest beta, he sent us on our way.
On our last morning we woke up to private showing of sun and fog on the neighboring peaks.
A days paddle included navigating several lakes, streams, and portages. Each portage took us closer to the solitude we sought.
BY: ZOEY GOTO
Widely considered the most beautiful city in the U.S., San Francisco has long been offering visitors a picture-perfect getaway. Throw in some fascinating cultural attractions and a first class hospitality scene, and you have all the ingredients needed for a truly epic minibreak.
Overlooking the magnificence of the misty Golden Gate Bridge, from the vantage point of San Francisco’s newest park, it’s easy to see why the city was recently voted one of the best places in the world to visit by National Geographic. The freshly unveiled Presidio Tunnel Tops, a 14-acre expansion of natural wonderland designed by the team behind New York’s High Line, is just one of many scenic pit stops on my small group driving tour led by Fogcutter Tours. At the helm of his customized jeep, owner and guide Eric Schaefer’s tour offers the perfect jumping off point for newcomers to discover San Francisco’s unique character and neighborhoods.
Cruising through the bustle of Chinatown, the largest of its kind outside Asia, we pass the grandeur of the San Fransisco - Palace of Fine Arts ascending to the top of Twin Peaks to gaze down at the jumble of districts below. Marvel as you drive through the heart of the groovy Haight-Ashbury district. You will find psychedelic hippy stores with incense wafting out through the door, vintage clothing emporiums, and Jimi Hendrix’s former apartment, now commemorated with a mural that acts as a gentle reminder that long before the shiny tech giants settled here, San Francisco was a nexus of counter-culture.
Stepping down from the surfinspired Fogcutter van and bidding Schaefer farewell, I stroll the palmlined sidewalks and discover that this seven-by-seven-mile city is surprisingly easy to navigate without a car. Many of its major attractions are situated within walking distance, or for lengthier journeys simply hop on the retro streetcars and iconic cable cars that weave through the Golden City with bells ringing out. Be sure to pack flat shoes, as the hills can be eye-wateringly steep!
You’ll need to hop on a ferry at Fisherman's Wharf to visit nearby Alcatraz Island, the former prison that has been transformed into a National Park and one of the city’s most visited attractions. It was here that notorious inmates including Al Capone and George "Machine Gun" Kelly resided. The cell house
is now open for tours. The island has also been featured in a number of movies, including Escape from Alcatraz and The Rock.
Back on dry land, Fisherman’s Wharf is heaving with water fronted eateries and independent boutiques. If you’re lucky you may get the chance to spot a sea lion basking in the midday sunshine. Be sure to also make time to head to the eastern side of Alamo Square Park to admire the Painted Ladies; a row of gorgeous, pastel-hued homes that have become one of San Francisco’s most photographed sights.
Thanks to a boom in business travel and tech pioneers, the city now boasts an enviable hotel scene, particularly at the upscale end of the market. For a quintessentially San Francisco experience, head to the InterContinental Mark Hopkins to check into the marble columned lobby, crowned with twinkling chandeliers. Head up to the 19th floor to the Top of the Mark cocktail lounge, a beloved landmark since opening in 1939, due to its sensational 360-degree views and storied history. It was during WW2 that servicemen started to buy and leave a bottle behind the bar, so that the next visiting soldier could enjoy a drink for free. This long running tradition is still upheld and celebrated with exhibition cabinets filled with dusty bottles, dotted throughout the hotel.
For the best seat in the house, ask to be directed to the Top of the Mark’s ‘weeper’s corner’, where sweethearts
of yesteryear would catch a final glimpse of departing soldiers as they sailed off under the Golden Gate Bridge. Nowadays there’s not a tear in sight; just a ringside seat for the finest views of the city and a great selection of small plates and sliders, complemented with a martini list that runs to a staggering 100 variations. For a more formal dining option, downstairs the Nob Hill Club offers a full-service restaurant in an elegant setting.
Those looking for a touch of modern luxury will find much to love at the Four Seasons, just a couple of blocks away in the downtown area. Tucked away from the main street, this 12-floored hotel feels like stepping into a little sanctuary. Inside, the communal style lobby is filled with friends catching up and workers on laptops, against a backdrop of warm wood paneling and handsome brown leather booths. Even the lowest tier rooms here are spacious, featuring floor to ceiling windows and white marble bathrooms. Guests also get free access to the stylish Equinox Sports club, which has a lap pool, yoga rooms and a basketball court.
At the nearby St. Regis San Francisco, the lobby takes center stage as home to the recently revamped fine dining restaurant Astra, which puts a big emphasis on sourcing ingredients from the Californian countryside.
Alongside generously sized rooms with city views and heavenly beds, St. Regis ticks the box for its cultural location. Located to the side of the lobby you will find a side entrance to
the Museum of the African Diaspora. Next door the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is located, the first museum on the West Coast devoted solely to 20th-century art. If your don’t feel like venturing beyond the hotel’s doors, the walls are also lined with an extensive collection of local artworks.
Just be sure to round off your visit by stopping by the St. Regis cocktail bar for some unforgettable peoplewatching, as everyone from Lady Gaga to Joaquin Phoenix have been seen indulging in their legendary crafted cocktails.
Eating is a significant part of any travel experience and whether it’s tucking in to burger and fries in New York or spicy jerk chicken in Montego Bay, there’s nothing better than savoring a meal synonymous with its country or place of origin, plus it’s a great way to meet the locals. Here are our must-try dishes of the world.
Battered fish and thick-cut potato chips - both deep fried, salted and sprinkled with vinegar are as much a part of the nation’s fabric as a cup of tea, or a pint down the local pub or Coronation Street. A marriage made in the 19th century to provide cheap and nutritious food for the working masses, they have fed countless memories for generations. The true home of fish and chips is by the sea and there is still a special magic about eating them at a classic English seaside resort. The Magpie Café (magpiecafe.co.uk) that overlooks the harbor in Whitby revels in its reputation as the place to go to enjoy some of the best in the north.
A great meal goes a long way when you're traveling. We sample 10 quintessential dishes in 10 different countries.
Going on a tapeando or tapas crawl is an excellent and authentic way to get into the Spanish eating and drinking swing. Strictly speaking, tapas are appetizers to be enjoyed with a glass of wine or beer followed by dinner, but they can also be enjoyed as the main focus by going from bar-to-bar. Tapas can be anything from a simple bowl of olives to tortilla española (potato omelet on bread). Among the best places for tapas in Madrid is the atmospheric bar Los Gatos (Calle de Jesús 2) in the Santa Ana district, famous for its creative gourmet tapas including the much-loved anguilas (baby eels on toast).
Freshly fried Baltic herring or stekt strömming is a classic Swedish dish which tastes especially good on top of buttered knäckebröd (hard bread) served with fluffy mashed potatoes sprinkled with chopped parsley and a side of lingonberries. The place to sample some of the best in Stockholm is the appropriately named Nystekt Strömming, a simple food caravan situated at (Kornhamnstorg 1), in medieval Gamla Stan (the Old Town), the oldest part of Stockholm and a treasure-trove of Swedish architectural art from the 17th century. After enjoying your food, take time to wander the network of picturesque streets, narrow lanes among squares, historic buildings and churches. The area has Stockholm’s biggest ranges of restaurants, bars, tourist shops, studios and museums.
A gastro ‘must do’ while in Germany and particularly in Berlin, is to sample the legendary Currywurst, the most popular fast food in the city, some say the nation. Costing a couple of euros, this chubby pork sausage doused in tomato sauce that’s been laced with spices such as mild curry, ginger and cayenne pepper is traditionally eaten from a paper plate with a tiny disposable fork while standing at chest-high snack tables on the sidewalks. The cult place to go in Berlin is Konnopke’s Imbiss (konnopke-imbiss.de) situated underneath the green girders of a subway in Prenzlauer Berg, which has been feeding the hungry hoards since 1930.
Situated in a glorious 19th-century riad with 21st-century Zen décor, a short stroll from Marrakesh’s medina,the Narwama restaurant (palaisnarwama. com) offers award-winning Moroccan cuisine, including arguably the country’s most famous dish - the tagine. The name tagine refers to the conical-lidded pot in which it is prepared, as well as the intricately spiced stew of meat and vegetables, usually with dried fruits or nuts, cooked very slowly over a charcoal fire. Typical tagine combinations include lamb with raisins and almonds and chicken with green olives and preserved lemons.
From simple hole-in-the-wall eateries to plush air-conditioned restaurants, Goa’s capital, Panaji is packed with a great range of places to eat, and the thali is the ubiquitous Indian lunch which just happens to be one of the whole sub-continent’s best food deals, Thalis provide a great opportunity to taste many Indian dishes at one sitting. For a handful of rupee, you get a stainless steel platter with small, fitted bowls usually containing a piece of fried fish or chicken, dry and wet vegetable dishes, roti, rice, pickle, and dahl (lentil curry). To eat it where the locals do, head to the Cafe Ritz (Duarto Pacheco Road), just round the corner from the Municipal Gardens. Diners constantly eddy in and out of the narrow doorway of the distinctive blue facade of this no-frills gem which serves one of the best value thalis in town.
It’s not just the Brits that have a passion for pies, the Aussies love them too. Ask any Sydneysider about his or her favorite pie place and Harry’s Café de Wheels (harryscafedewheels.com.au) on Cowper Wharf Road, is guaranteed to be among the replies. This 24-hour pie-cart has been serving its chunky lean beef pies with mushy peas, mash and gravy alongside the wharves since 1945. From taxi drivers and sailors to celebrities and late night revelers, people of all walks of life have ‘scoffed’ a pie at Harry’s legendary cart. With other pies available, such as curry and seafood – even the fussiest of pie punters will love this place.
Jamaica’s signature dish is fiery jerk chicken or pork, served with rice and peas, sweet potatoes or yam. Although there are thousands of jerk centers at almost every crossroads or street corner, one of the best places to go is Scotchies, a simple thatched-roof joint on the outskirts of Montego Bay, where customers rub shoulders at rustic tables opening tin foil parcels of tasty jerk chicken or fish washed down with a Red Stripe beer. Around the back, rows of chickens are splayed flat and sizzle in jerk marinade over a low fire of pimento wood, that introduces a strong distinctive smoky flavor to the meat. Like most places, the recipe for jerk sauce at Scotchies is a closely guarded secret, but they usually contain peppers, onions, pimento, ginger and chilli.
Only 280 km from tip-to-tip, Prince Edward Island (PEI) is Canada’s tiniest province, but still manages to punch above its weight in the culinary world thanks to its abundance of local seafood specialties such as oysters, mussels and particularly lobster. A ‘lobster supper,’ consisting of lobster, potato salad and crusty rolls is the classic island dining experience you shouldn’t miss.
Two of the most renowned places to enjoy a lobster supper are New Glasgow Lobster Suppers in New Glasgow (peilobstersuppers.com) proudly serving since 1958 with spectacular views of the River Clyde, and the Fisherman’s Wharf Lobster Suppers (fishermanswharf.ca) in beautiful North Rustico.
Burger and fries are as much a part of New York as Times Square and the Statue of Liberty. Whether you want to keep things classic with beef, bacon or cheese or go for something more exotic like free-range ostrich or bison, the city has burgers for every taste with a diverse range of places from historic to hip. Located inside the foyer of the sleek Thompson Central Park Hotel on the southern edge of Central Park, the Burger Joint is no ordinary burger establishment. Before it even opens at 11 am a line of customers start to gather down a dimly-lit corridor, where only a simple neon hamburger sign indicates what lies beyond. On the other side of some velvet curtains is a windowless room, with posters of Sex in the City and the Sopranos adorning graffiti-strewn walls above leatherette booths, where you can enjoy the uncomplicated menu of burgers, fries and milkshakes.
The famous Cape Winelands region is located in the Western Cape. This area is renowned for its diverse landscapes, incredible natural beauty and of course, wine.
There are countless vineyards, fruit orchards, and wine estates to visit in and around the South African wine towns of Stellenbosch, Paarl, and Franschhoek. Not only is the Cape Winelands home to breathtaking scenery and tourist hot spots but they also feature some of the world's finest hotels.
Best of all, most of these idyllic wine estates are less than 30 minutes from Cape Town, making them the perfect destination for either a day trip for a wine tasting or a luxury weekend getaway.
The Cape Winelands is a continuous band of stunning valleys that are overshadowed by the Cape Fold Mountains where you’ll find a myriad of vines growing across the land. It is this unique landscape that supports the production of the iconic South African wines that are so popular across the globe. You’ll also find lovely historic towns, farmsteads, tiny hamlets, and the friendliest locals who are truly passionate about wine.
With more than 300 wineries dotting the peninsula, the Cape is endowed with some of the most stunning wine estates in the nation, if not the whole globe. Because of this it can be tough to decide which ones to visit; especially during a short trip to South Africa.
Below you’ll find a list of my favorite retreats, which range from charming hilltop cottages to five-star designer estates tucked away in the vineyards so that you can find your ideal Cape Winelands farm stay.
These three picturesque sojourns are located on some of the most magnificent wine farms in the Cape, and they are characterized by panoramic vineyard views, exquisite accommodation, and a laid-back country atmosphere.
The first stop on our Cape Winelands meander was in Stellenbosch at Jordan Wine Estate Luxury Suites. Located in the stunning Stellenbosch Wine Valley, this farm has been producing world-class wines since 1993. Besides growing award-winning wine, the setting is also stunning and the ideal place for a luxury stay.
The 13 suites at Jordan Wine Estate are large and beautifully decorated with luxurious fabrics and different textures and patterns. Guests can choose between Deluxe Suites, Superior Suites, and 2-bedroom Luxury Suites. We stayed in one of the Superior Suites which proved to be extremely spacious for our little family of three.
One of the best features in our suite was the wood burning fireplace strategically positioned between the bathroom, living room and bedroom. The large open-plan bathroom had a walk-in shower, free-standing bath, two sinks, a separate toilet, and a heated towel rail. There are also soft bathrobes and towels, as well as toiletries that are environmentally friendly. You’ll also find all the expected mod-cons such as Wi-Fi, air conditioning, TV, Nespresso coffee machine, mini fridge, and more.
We enjoyed in-suite dining for dinner each night which was set up in our room with our meals kept warm in a Wonderbag. A scrumptious a la carte hot breakfast was served each morning at The Cellar Door. In addition to comfortable accommodation and delicious seasonal food, the views are what make a stay at Jordan Suites special. To see even more of the panoramic views, go on a guided vineyard tour in their open safari-style Land Rover.
The next destination our Cape Winelands tour took us to was the reimagined grand dame of Paarl, the Grande Roche Hotel. Our visit coincided with moody winter weather, and it couldn’t have been more perfect for this setting. The hotel recently changed ownership and is now in the very capable hands of Paarl locals, Hansie and Theresa Britz, who have refurbished the property to meet modern luxury standards.
The suites and restaurant now sport stylish touches such as bold wallpaper, contemporary art, and vibrant colors that complement the historic buildings and lovely setting. The five Duplex Suites are best for those who want to immerse themselves in the property’s rich history. The Terrace Suites provide stunning views through sash windows from their cozy lounges or private patios.
Views from the Grande Roche Hotel are impressive. To one side you can gaze out over the Paarl Valley and admire the Groot Drakenstein Mountains in the distance. On the other side is Paarl Rock. The hotel is nestled right at the foot of this iconic natural landmark giving them “the best view in town” according to Director Johann Bouwer.
The best part about a stay at Grande Roche Hotel is the opportunity to sample dishes created by Chef Kevin Grobler. His approach to cooking centers on finding the greatest local, sustainable, and accessible ingredients. They employ a zero-waste philosophy in his kitchen and ensure that everything is utilized. Guests can eat in the restaurant for breakfast, lunch, and dinner but I highly recommend booking their phenomenal high tea as well.
Our final destination took us to Franschhoek where we stayed at the enchanting Boschendal Wine Estate. Famous for their leisurely picnics under ancient trees, this is one of South Africa’s oldest farms. It was founded in 1685 and has been providing farm-to-table meals and distinctive vintages ever since.
The farm estate is so large that it resembles a little village, complete with homes, vineyards, orchards, and animals roaming around. There are numerous accommodation options and most of them are set some distance from the main Werf area. However, upon hearing that I would be visiting with a baby, the staff promptly booked us into the lovely Werf Cottages for added convenience.
These one-bedroom cottages all have a Cape-farm design with ultra-luxurious touches. There is a fully furnished kitchenette with a complimentary bar fridge along with a box full of organic snacks produced on the farm, and a bottle of Boschendal wine and other goodies. Additionally, there is a spacious Victorian-style ensuite bathroom complete with a claw-foot bath, waterfall shower and organic locally made toiletries.
Besides the large cozy bedroom, you also have a comfortable living room space with a wood-burning fireplace for those winter nights. Beyond the sash windows is a private patio with the most incredible mountain views. This is the perfect country escape.
Head to the historic Werf area to find your dining options. The Werf Restaurant offers gourmet dinners and breakfast with a view. The Deli has a simple menu perfect for lunch or light dinners. Boschendal’s wine tastings also take place in the beautiful courtyard setting and guests can visit the Farm Shop.
This brand, located in the Western Cape, a South African province, is recognized as the leading producer of wine and spirits in South Africa. Their grapes are sourced from the country's most prestigious wine regions and have received numerous accolades for their excellence.
As early as 1918, Dr. Charles W. H. Kohler was appointed president of KWV and became one of the foremost figures in the Western Cape wine industry during the 20th century. The vineyard became one of the premier brandy producers in the region. In 1930, KWV built their main cellar - the Cathedral Cellar - which features a domed-shaped ceiling and a light show, hence the name of one of KWV's high-end product lines. The estate currently has 420 vineyards, equivalent to 1,200 hectares of grapevines.
The vineyard has a clear vision regarding its significant contribution to the citizens of South Africa. Embracing the three pillars of sustainability - human integrity, social equality, and environmental conservation - holds great importance to KWV. The company endorses sustainable business practices that serve and protect the future of the planet while respecting human rights.
Surreal has become a devalued word, used to describe everything from a slightly unusual coffee to a reality TV show. In the art world though, it still carries a certain weight, a reminder that surrealism was one of the most original and influential art movements of the 20th century. In any mention of surrealism, it's inevitable that the first name that comes to mind is that of Salvador Dalí.
Born in Figueres in Catalunya, Spain, Dalí was an artistic prodigy, giving his first exhibition in his home city at the age of 14. Skilled in conventional techniques, his originality emerged in his bizarre and challenging surrealist creations. His showmanship, eccentricity, and sense of fun made him a global celebrity artist in an era where no such thing had existed.
Bringing it all back home to Figueres, Dalí dominates this attractive Catalan city in northeastern Spain, putting it firmly on the tourist trail. Every gift shop is awash with melting clocks and twirly mustache T-shirts, and even the cafes will offer a Salvador cup for a cafe amb llet.
For Dalí aficionados or the casual visitor, the Dalí museum, the Museu Dalí is a must-see, arguably one of the major modern art museums of Europe and a close third to the Prado and Bilbao Guggenheim for gallery visitor numbers in Spain.
Like the artist himself, the gallery is unique, playful, provocative, and endlessly entertaining. Give or take the occasional example of graphic nudity in the name of art, it's also a great place to take kids, who will love the ingenious contraptions, the colors, and the air of mischief that permeates so many of the exhibits.
Booking tickets is essential, with visitors assigned a time slot. Even waiting outside isn't allowed to be dull, with the spectacle of the building itself offering glistening metallic domes and strange luminous egg decorations. Inside, the exhibits range from Dalí's large-scale sculptures expressing his fascination with kitsch Americana, to delicate and beautiful miniatures.
If the museum is the inevitable focus of Figueres, the rest of the city has a laidback Catalan charm. The highlight for sightseers with historical interests is the 18th-century castle on the north side of the city. Originally built as a bulwark against French invaders, it later became a prison. Walking around the ramparts gives a sense of its scale.
In the center of Figueres, the main avenue, the rambla, is the focus, as in any Catalan city, with vibrant pavement cafes, upmarket small galleries, and restaurants dominating the atmospheric side streets and squares.
In culinary terms, Figueres has not completely surrendered to high-end minimalist modern cuisine, still offering plenty of unpretentious dining options providing hearty Catalan traditional dishes such as bacalao con samfaina, a dried cod and vegetable combination, or suquet de peix, a rich fish stew.
Suitably refreshed, the visitor may want to resume the Dalí trail with an excursion to the coast. Bus Route 12 makes the journey to Portlligat on the Cap de Creus on the Costa Brava. This scenic promontory is where the artist made his home.
Dalí's house is a characteristically eccentric edifice made up of interlinked fishermen's shacks. The Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí offers a fascinating insight into the home life of the artist and his wife, with tours taking in the studio, model's room, striking oval sitting-room, and the somewhat suggestively-shaped swimming pool. Anyone hoping to see the den of a 1960s bohemian probably won't be entirely disappointed.
Near Cadaqués is a sedate Costa Brava resort that is less obvious about its Dalí connections, preferring to present itself as a wholesome family beach escape. The promenades along the Mediterranean offer attractive, albeit windswept, strolls, and there are plenty of simple fish restaurants and ice-cream parlors to visit and enjoy the vistas.
Although the costa resorts further south suffered some of the most insensitive development anywhere in Spain, there are stretches of coastline in this area that retain the beauty that inspired the artist. The work of Dalí invariably came back to the sea, to the shapes and colors of the Mediterranean shores, and with a vivid summer sunset as the backdrop, it's easy for the visitor to dip into the world of Dalí, maybe while enjoying a surreal coffee or brandy.
The Maldives can easily be described as a breathtaking and luxurious tropical escape. This stunning archipelago is made up of nearly 1,200 islands, many of which are uninhabited. Join us next issue as we visit some of the most exclusive resorts in this jewel of the Indian Ocean.
