DRIFT Travel Magazine Spring 2022 by DRIFT Travel Magazine

T R A V E L

O F T E N . L I V E

W E L L

T R A V E L

M A G A Z I N E

GOLF IN FRANCE’S LOIRE VALLEY

OLD MEETS NEW IN AUTHENTIC FRENCH STYLE

WHERE TO NEXT?

inside this issue | 14 countries & 38 must visit destinations SPRING 2022

COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY

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PRODUCTION/EDITORIAL TRACIE BARNTHOUSE, SHELLEY COAR, JUNE DAGNALL, STEVE DRAKE, ANDREW MARSHALL, MARGARET MURRAY, MATTHEW SCHUELLER

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22 14 Les Bordes Golfing in France

A picturesque old course with rolling fairways and a challenging par 72 new course are just two of the special offerings that await the avid golfer at Les Bordes in the Loire Valley.

columns

6 Travel Bites

28 Travel Gear 46 Hotel Spotlight 72 #WheretoNext

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BY MATTHEW SCHUELLER Hawaii is rooted in community, and its welcoming spirit embraces every traveler.

32 Beautiful Belgium

BY SHELLEY COAR A scenic photographic journey through Belgium’s cities and countryside.

48 Afternoon Tea Around The World BY JUNE DAGNALL A look at the ten best places to experience afternoon tea on the planet.

54 New Zealand on Two Wheels BY ANDREW MARSHALL Cycling from the North Island to the South Island’s spectacular glaciers.

Contents

22 Hawaiian Dreams

60 Nevada’s Weird Wonders

BY TRACIE BARNTHOUSE It begins with alien research and gets weirder by the desert mile.

66 America’s Great State Parks

BY MARGARET MURRAY A sneak peek at a few of the 10,000 state parks that span 18 million acres across the USA.

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On the cigar and cocktail trail in

Old Havana BY: ANDREW MARSHALL A man’s voice crackles over an antiquated loud speaker system as he reads a chapter from a García Màrquez novel, the words filling the vast room where dozens of men and women listen. With heads bowed over wooden workbenches and with their hands methodically rolling, chopping and tucking, they create Cuba’s most famous product.

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am lucky enough to be one of the last people to take a cigar factory tour at the original Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás (Partagás Cigar Factory) in Old Havana (Calle Industria No.520) behind the Capitolio Nacional building, before it moved to its new location on the corner of Calle San Carlos in Central Havana. One of Havana's oldest and most famous cigar factories, the landmark Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás had been making cigars here since 1845. For a cigar aficionado like myself, this is 'the pilgrimage' for it is here that some of the world's finest cigars are handcrafted, from the powerfully rich Cohiba Robusto to the magnificent Partagás Double Corona. Whatever your views are about smoking, it's a fascinating cultural insight to take a cigar factory tour. Being Cuba, factory tours can be ad hoc. Tours take around one hour, and cover the various stages of cigar production. Starting in the selection room, where sorters grade the various tobacco leaves and ending in a tiny room where the finished cigars are packed into cedar boxes, which are pasted with their official green and white seals to confirm authenticity. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 7

But it's in the rolling rooms, the galeras, the very heart and soul of the cigar-making process that I am able to fully appreciate the craftsmanship that has been handed down through generations of cigar rollers. The pungent aroma of rich tobacco leaf mingles with cigar smoke as several rollers enjoy the fruits of their labor while they work. Rolling is a prestigious job, and only the skilled get to roll famous cigar types like the Cohiba Esplendido and Montecristo No.2. Using only a metal knife, a wooden board, a small guillotine and a bit of vegetable gum, most rollers make around

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100 to 150 cigars a day. But I have to say; I’m a little disappointed not to witness any Cuban women rolling them on their thighs. In the next room, Roberto Gomez's job is to inspect the gauge size and uniformity of the finished product. The quality control is thorough, and he carefully places to one side any cigars that don't make the grade. "I've been doing this job for nearly forty years now, and reckon I can tell a good cigar from a bad one,” he says taking a deep puff on a Bolivar Belicoso.

If a Partagás factory tour is the pilgrimage, then the Holy Grail is the Havana cigar itself, smoked in any of the city’s time-honored cafés or bars. Before leaving the factory it’s almost mandatory to visit the cigar shop on the ground floor to select a cigar (or a box of cigars), which confusingly is still housed in the factory's old location. Naturally, it sells some of Havana's best smokes, including the deep, earthy Partagás brand, and you needn’t go any further than the adjoining La Casa del Habano bar to smoke it. The faces of various Hollywood celebrities that have enjoyed the

combination of a fine cigar with a Cuban cocktail in this atmospheric saloon, smile up from their autographed photos in an album on the bar top. This is definitely the place where you wouldn’t be surprised if you bumped into the likes of Jack Nicholson or Arnold Schwarzenegger enjoying a fat cigar or two. A block or so away from the rebranded 'Modern Partagás Cigar Factory' (where factory tours are available) is the Romeo y Julieta Factory (which also offers tours and produces several sizes of handcrafted Cohiba, Montecristos, H. Upmanns and of course, Romeo y Julietas. It's early evening and lighting up one of my favorite cigars, a superbly spicy Montecristo No.2, I hit the streets and stroll past the grand Capitolio Nacional inspired by the US Capitol building in Washington D.C and hang a right into the back streets of Old Havana. Despite decades of economic decline, the old magic of Havana shines through like a scratchy, crackling scene from a 1950s Cary Grant movie. It was this very magic that attracted people like authors Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene, most of Hollywood, the Windsors and the Churchills. Smoking my cigar, I'm easy prey for the black market street peddlers who zero in. "Hey my friend, where are you from? You want good cigars? I have Montecristos for a good price?" "Sorry, I already have some," I reply, having bought a genuine box of cigars earlier, and escape through the doors of El Floridita, to imbibe the bar's infamous cocktail, the daiquiri.

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In addition to cigars, Havana has long been famous for its cocktails, and while El Floridita didn't invent the daiquiri, it certainly reinvented it by introducing an electric iceblender into the equation in the 1920s. Served up by red-jacketed barmen who make a great show with their cocktail shakers, these frosty dreams of rum, lemon juice, sugar, maraschino and crushed ice are just the thing to combat the heat outside. Ernest Hemingway spent over 20 years living in Cuba and many an hour sipping daiquiris and smoking cigars in this hallowed haunt. Another Cuban cocktail is the mojito (rum, lemon juice, sugar, soda, mint leaf and ice cubes, stirred) made famous by the Nobel prize-winning novelist when he penned 'my daiquiri in the Floridita and my mojito in the Bodeguita' on one of the walls of the La Bodeguita del Medio bar. Since Hemingway's time, a visit to this funky bar has become de rigueur, and other notables such as Nat King Cole and Fidel Castro have left their autographs on the wall. The streets of Communist Havana are living testimony to tough times. To say that time seems to have stopped ticking somewhere back in the 1950s is to state the obvious. An ancient Oldsmobile rumbles down Calle Obispo, Old Havana's main thoroughfare, as I head for the La Bodeguita, nearly pinning me against the crumbling walls of a building as its hulk practically fills the narrow street. When I arrive, the place is crammed with hordes of tourists all drinking mojitos, so I decide to visit the nearby La Lluvia de Oro instead. Besides, the mojitos here are half the price and go down well with the sizzling salsa beat of a live band. 10 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

In my boutique hotel suite tucked away in one of the residential streets, I'm surrounded by the hum of Havana life. I wake every morning to roosters crowing and mothers getting children off to school and fall asleep each evening to the sound of a dozen different television sets floating in through my open balcony windows.

The following day I’m back exploring the streets of Old Havana. In addition to walking, another great way to see the sights is to jump in the back of one the cities’ colorful three-wheeled taxi cycles. “How’s your stay in Havana so far,” Gustavo my cigar-puffing driver asks me, as we head off past the grand steps of the Capitolio Nacional with its dominating dome that cost USD $17 million to build in 1926, then

throw a left into the back streets of Old Havana. At the speed of peddle power, we pass by the popular lunchtime haunt of Café de Paris and the cool neo-deco atmosphere of Café Del Oriente, just two other great venues to pursue the hedonistic delights of sampling various cocktails while savoring on the palate the rich coffee-laden, spicy overtones of a hand-rolled Cuban cigar...

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CUBAN CIGARS – Tasting Tips and Etiquette Select: When choosing a cigar the wrapper can offer the first clue. Lighter wrappers generally indicate a milder flavor with darker wrappers offering a more full-bodied smoke. When squeezed, a cigar should give slightly and then when released, spring back into its original shape without the wrapper leaf cracking As a general rule, milder cigars are more suited to earlier in the day, while the fullbodied choice is best saved to finish off a good meal or to pair with a dark rum for example. A good cross-section of fullbodied Havanas include the Cohiba Esplendido or Robusto, a Partagás Lusitania Double Corona, the Montecristo No.2, Romeo y Julieta Belicoso, Bolivar

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Royal Corona, an H. Upmann Monarch, a Punch Double Corona, a Romeo y Julieta Exhibicion No. 2 or the powerful Exhibicion No. 4. Before cutting and lighting, survey the wrapper for consistent color, smoothness, and sheen and savor the scent of the cigar. Cut: Some cigar smokers swear by using one’s teeth, but it’s best to use a proper cigar cutter for the job. A good rule of thumb is to cut about 3mm from the head of the cigar. This is sufficient to give a good draw, without the risk of loosening the wrapper. Light: Using a good quality butane lighter hold the cigar just above the flame (do not let the flame

touch the cigar) at a 45-degree angle so that the heat, not the flame, causes combustion and the outer ring of the cigar is evenly lit. Rotate the cigar through the first few puffs to assure an even burn. Listen to the faint crackle as you light your cigar, the soft exhalation as you release the smoke...these are the sounds of satisfaction. Savor: Roll the smoke around your mouth and enjoy the rich bouquet of varied flavors. A long solid cylinder of white ash indicates a good soil and more taste. Don’t be tempted to tap the ash, just let it fall off naturally in the ashtray. As the cigar burns down its length, the tastes and aroma will change, most likely becoming more pronounced.

CUBAN COCKTAILS This tropical country seems to have cornered the market it cocktails. Here's a little history behind some of the delights you can order: Cuba Libre This rum and coke blend was created during the Spanish-American War. This cocktail is quite clearly a nod to the home team as Cuba Libre is Spanish for free Cuba. Mojito The origins of the mojito have been linked back to a 16th-century drink named after Sir Francis Drake. The lime juice and rum mix was said to help combat scurvy and dysentery. Daiquiri Supposedly invented by a US mining engineer who was in Cuba during the Spanish-American war. This rum, citrus and sugar mix could be named after a beach or a local iron mine. Canchanchara This is the drink that the daiquiri is believed to have derived from. The rustic lime, honey and rum beverage is believed to be created by early freedom fighters.

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Golf Travel to France

BY: STEVE DRAKE

Tucked away in the French woodlands of the Loire Valley, you'll find the exceptional Les Bordes Golf Club. Originally established by Baron Marcel Bich, a French entrepreneur and inventor who was also the founder of BIC, the company that brought us the iconic x`pens and lighters. Opened in 1987, the club is known for high end amenities and its prestigious private membership.

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The Old Course

Widely considered to be Von Hagge’s greatest masterpiece, the Old Course has been consistently ranked amongst the top three courses in Europe over the past 30 years.

t has been said that when the great Texan Robert von Hagge designed this course, his intent was to throughly mess with even the best who comes to challenge his creation. I could not agree more.

As you begin to walk the course, you might say there is a bit of an American feel, but a quick look around and there is no doubt that you are in France. Large balls of mistletoe growing high in the trees, a 600-year old abandoned monastery, and every once and awhile a mighty stag will march across your path, as if he is the keeper of this enchanted forest. Yes, this is France. With gently rolling fairways, this par 72 Old Course is lush and well established, so be watchful of where you place (or should I say misplace) your tee shot. A miss here will leave you with a difficult second shot. Most of the greens are well protected with water and there is sand everywhere. As you approach the 6th green there is an old cross just beyond the bunker that runs along the right side. Like a beacon of hope for those whose shots have gone astray. The perfect spot for a quick prayer... you’ll likely need it.

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...but it’s the New Course that everyone is talking about

The Les Bordes New Course is an amazing par 72 that wanders through the Loire countryside. Designed by golf course architect Gil Hanse, this is a course you will love or hate, and even if you hate it... you’ll love playing it.

Just a few short months after the New Course opened, it was included in GOLF Magazine’s Top 100 Courses in the World 2021-2022. 16 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

Standing on the first tee, you will feel a sense of calm. The fairway ahead looks wide and receptive and looks like an easy opening hole. Right, not so easy after all. From here on out, this is what you will discover hole after hole. Most of the fairways offer a well defined bailout areas, hit it here and you’ll pay the price when it comes to your next shot. So firsttime players beware.

Gil Hanse | Golf Course Architect

The New Course is vastly different from the Old Course. More wild and a little more daring. The greens are well bunkered, yet receptive to a well placed approach shot. Peninsulas of heather and broom are strategically placed along the fairways, with several holes featuring forced carries over water or sand, all to challenge even the most experienced golfer.

It’s almost like the course is taunting you, like the Siren of Greek mythology calling you to play a little closer to the hazards. But don’t fall for it, there is a path to your target and by design Hanse will reward those who find it with par and better. The New Course is worthy of all the praise, and like a fine French Cabernet, will only get better with age.

Gil Hanse has always been interested in design and construction. After completing an undergraduate degree at Clemson University, Hanse worked for several years as a land planner and civil engineer before returning to school to study landscape architecture. His unique approach to golf course design has won him numerous awards, and his courses are enjoyed by astute golfers around the world.

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The Club House The club house is a phenomenal centerpiece with rustic architecture and the finest of details. With seating for over 200 guests inside and out, members and visitors can enjoy the simplicity of relaxation or world class dining while marveling at the structure. The restaurant offers exceptional views across the entire course.

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The facilities are built to very high standards with lush green fairways and immaculate bunkering. The perfectly maintained practice area will have you feeling ready to test your abilities from the first tee. A large putting green and chipping area is complemented by an impressive driving range allowing golfers of all levels to warm up in preparation for their round. Twenty four of the thirty nine member cottages have been fully renovated by Londonbased architects Michaelis Boyd and they are spectacular. Yet to come, a partnership with Six Senses will transform the onsite 19th century ‘Chateau Bel Air’ into a luxury hotel and spa.

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Cour du Baron Residences A twist on the traditional, the classical homes feature a mixture of local stone and timber cladding. Exposed rafters lend a countryside feeling to living spaces, and big windows create an openness that connects the interiors to the surrounding landscape and beyond. Morpheus & Co, the international interior design house behind some of the most exclusive hospitality and residential developments of the last 25 years, are the creatives

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behind the residential interiors. World-renowned for their turnkey delivery and groundbreaking interior architecture, interior design and highly tailored furniture solutions, from signature collections to completely unique pieces, they have designed bespoke “Cour du Baron” furniture collections to blend intimately with property design and the local environs. They are in active consultation with owners from across the world –

including the UK, US, Switzerland, France, Sweden, Germany and The Netherlands – to deliver their dream interiors at Les Bordes, combining tactile, relaxing interiors and timeless design with biophilic features for a feeling of comfort and inspiration, and immersion into the surrounding environment both inside and out.

Some of the enriching amenities include natural fishing lakes, walking and cycling trails, an animal petting farm for children, outdoor play areas, and a natural swimming lake with its very own white sand beach – completely unique of anywhere else in the Loire Valley. Others include a renowned equestrian club, archery, tennis courts that will soon become a full club for training and leisure,

and for younger family members, go-kart track and pony riding, with a kids’ club, ice-cream shop and zip lines coming later this year. Governed separately from the residential community and rest of the estate, the worldfamous Les Bordes Golf Club remains exclusively private.

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aloha from

HAWAII

BY: MATTHEW SCHUELLER

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Visiting Honolulu is much more than visiting a big city. Before I stepped off the plane onto the island, I thought the tropical paradise would be limited to me experiencing just Waikiki, but I quickly learned that I had access to much, much more—I could see the entire island! What I didn’t know is that when people say they are going to visit Honolulu, they can easily get from place to place all around Oahu. From one side of the island to the other, it may only take only a couple hours drive.

We booked our trip to celebrate our 3rd year wedding anniversary, but also to see a good friend who lived in Waikiki. Lucky for us, our friend Tanner was able to play as tour-guide during our visit. As soon as we landed, the first thing we did was pick up poke-bowls and walked to Waikiki beach to touch the ocean. The color of the water blew my mind. I had never seen such radiant turquoise in my life. It really was stunning as I remembered always imagining that the photos I had seen of Waikiki being overly saturated by photo-editing, but the photos truly does not do justice to seeing the water for yourself. Between bites of fresh Ahi Tuna with spicy mayo, we waded through the warm water absorbing all the sights and sounds of Hawaii’s most touristy beach. We didn’t want to spend long there, as Oahu is full of much more beautiful and secluded beaches. But we knew we had to at least experience a bit of Waikiki, especially in just arriving. Wading into the water was like a warm hello, a welcoming hug from the island. The spirit of the island is that of community. Everyone we met made us feel like we belonged there from the moment we arrived. After finishing our Poké bowls, we found a new friend at Kaimana’s Beach, just down the way from Waikiki. After enjoying a couple beers at Kaimana’s Beach and taking in the view, he took it upon himself to offer showing us some of his favorite spots around the island. I can’t think of anywhere else on earth that has people like this, who will drop everything at a simple hello and befriend you in an instant. We came to Hawaii with nothing planned and nothing pertinently scheduled so as to truly encompass the meaning of Aloha, the Hawaiian laid-back spirit towards life. So, at the offer of seeing the island through a new friend’s eyes, we took it to heart and accepted to meet up the next day.

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After a cheap but delicious breakfast of spam musubi from the neighborhood 7-11, with our new friend from Kaimana’s Beach, Michael and I piled into Tanner’s car to embark across the island to a place we had just heard about, Polo Beach. Known to locals as not only an LGBTQ+ friendly location, but also a popular clothing-optional stretch of pristine golden sand on Oahu’s Northern coast. Umbrella and snacks-in-hand, we found an open space and set-up our camp for the day. Often when we travel, we try to fit in as much as possible and see absolutely everything there is to see. Reflecting on trips like that, I’m reminded of how tired I’ve returned home and feel sometimes like, “I need a vacation from my vacation.” On our second day on Oahu, I started to understand the

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appeal and draw of the island. It’s a place I can finally unwind and relax. I didn’t feel the same rush of needing to go and experience absolutely everything that the island had to offer. I felt perfectly content, sitting on a beach surrounded by crystal blue water, feeling the sun on my face and in the company of good friends. In a word, paradise. In an experience, more than I could ever express on paper. Friends of our friends arrived at Polo Beach to join us, one of them gifting us a home-grown mango from his tree. Since we were already in the area, we decided to hike to Ka’ena Point, the westernmost edge of Oahu. Known for its remote coastal lava-crusted shoreline, Ka’ena Point’s rugged hiking trails lead to incredibly beautiful vistas providing Oahu’s

largest Laysan albatross sanctuary. The hike in total is 3 miles to the edge, and 3 miles back from the starting point on the North Shore. We watched the sunset as albatross flew overhead, and it truly was a sight I’ll never forget.

Following our adventurous hike to the Western Point, we made plans to explore more of Oahu’s North Shore the following day, including seeing the famed Lanikai Beach. The destination certainly did not disappoint, as the color and clarity of the water exceeded even what we had seen at Waikiki or Polo Beach. The small islands Moku Nui and Moku Iki provided further magic to the backdrop as we sat perched on the sand. After a long day in the sun, the drive back provided even more beautiful surprises. Along the North Shore, the cliffs that were used for scenes from the movie, Jurassic Park stunned us as we drove around the bends. We stopped at Haolna Beach Cove to find a craterlike beach surrounded by steep and rocky cliffs. Many were taking advantage of the last hours of sunlight snorkeling in the turquoise waters. Though lounging and experiencing some of Oahu’s best beaches was a definite highlight of the trip, there was so much more to experience. On our last full day on the island, our friend Tanner surprised us with a catamaran sailing cruise along with friends we had met during our trip. The day-cruise departed from Waikiki Beach and sailed around the bay, providing plenty of drinks to enjoy as we enjoyed the view of the city from a different perspective. To cap off the trip, we went out to experience the nightlife with our newfound Hawaiian chosen family.

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Even though we stayed just a week on the island, it felt like we had been there for years. We connected closely with those we met incredibly fast, and that wasn’t just because we like to meet new people when we travel. It’s because of the laid-back and friendly Hawaiian way of life, and the idea that all who walk on this earth are connected in some way or another. As a relatively small island, Oahu is a tight-knit community—and though it’s one of the most popular tourist destinations in the USA, the community is still incredibly welcoming. So if you find yourself on the island, let go of any sense of strict planning, allow yourself to make a new friend, and go with the flow with that incredible Hawaiian sense of Aloha.

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BRUTREK beverage bottles

Features an innovative dual lid system that makes carrying, sipping and pouring easy. The leak-proof top lid, which screws into either the second lid or the bottle, has a handle with rounded edges and a large opening for holding onto or fastening to a backpack. The second lid, which screws into the bottle, has a spout that’s large enough for smooth sipping and pouring, but will still keep ice contained. Use both lids or only the top lid as needed.

brutrek.com

HUNTER canvas desert commando boot

Designed to be worn in the warmer months, the women’s canvas desert boot is designed in breathable natural cotton canvas. It keeps feet cool on a hot summer day while still providing natural insulation in cooler weather. The cotton-based fabric is highlighted with rubberized foxing, a high-grip outsole and kickspur to aid removal.

hunterboots.com

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MODERN PICNIC the backpack

The chic, functional, and sustainable backpack is a great travel companion. The interior is insulated, includes a sleeve to protect your laptop, and even has compartments for your silverware. The backpack is also perfect for travel whether you are planning a picnic in the park or packing for a weekend getaway!

modernpicnic.com

WHITNEY LINEN resort wear

Linen is one of the strongest fibers, making it an inherently sustainable choice. The Resort 2022 Collection features pieces designed for getaways and city stays. The collection showcases Whitney Linen’s take on safari style with a tropical twist!

whitneylinen.com

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SKYDIO skydio 2+ drone

A drone which builds on the industry-leading autonomy of the Skydio 2 drone with important hardware and software improvements. Plus enhanced wireless range and battery life to get the most out of every adventure. Also, Skydio announced new groundbreaking autonomous flight capability, Skydio KeyFrame. Skydio Keyframe is an AI skill that allows a user to design and capture smooth, complex camera moves with just a few taps.

skydio.com

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THE ROLLING STONES luggage collection A tribute to the pioneers of hard rock. The suitcase collection feature a branded telescopic trolley handle that locks in 2 different positions, and single 360° spinner wheels, for precise control and smooth, quiet rolling. The inside includes a signature Rolling Stones lining, dividing panel, tightening straps and various pockets for optimized packing that remains in place during your trip.

bfashionbags.com

SPINN CP.02 camera carrying system A new carrying system for almost every DSLR and mirrorless camera. Let your camera rest bombproof in any position without swinging or slipping, and enjoy unrestricted access and perfect view of all controls. spinn.design

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A nighttime wedding party lights sky lanterns to remember loved ones who have passed on. One is for the bride’s father, a beloved friend. 32 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

BELGIUM A Photographic Journey Featured Artist: Shelley Coar

Instagram: @shelleycoartravel Website: shelleycoar.com Gear: Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF 16-35 f/2.8L, RRS Ultralight Tripod & BH-40 Ball Head Shelley is a travel photographer and write who lives in Denver, Colorado, with her husband and son. She enjoys photographing low light landscapes and is most inspired in her second home country of Belgium.

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The lively daytime canals of Bruges are normally packed with boats of tourists, but not at night. The up-lights of the iconic Belfort tower caught my eye as evening blanketed the city.

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The secluded Abbaye Notre-Dame de Saint Remy is home to the Cistercian monks who brew the world-renowned Rochefort beer.

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Symmetrical white cabanas await the daytime throng of beach-goers at the Knokke-Heist on the North Sea.

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Walk down a dusty lane, and you will inevitably find a hidden countryside chapel like this one secluded near Hoegaarden. 40 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

Windmills make for a serene bike stop along the canal from Bruges to Damme. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 41

Belgium is best explored on bike and has a myriad of mapped cycling routes covering the countryside and cities alike. 42 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

Tree lined esplanades run parallel the canals flowing from Bruges to the North Sea and make for a perfect escape by bike or foot.

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The glassy pre-dawn River Lys reflects the facades of Ghent, a tranquil view of the medieval city before the crowded and energetic day begins. 44 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

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xenodocheio Milos Athens xenodocheio Milos is located in downtown Athens opposite Old Parliament, an area bursting with history and celebrates the best of Greek heritage, art and cuisine. Elegant and refined, this authentic culinary hotel experience is the very first luxury boutique hotel of the world-renowned Greek restaurant estiatorio Milos, carrying the inspiring story of Milos to its next chapter.

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A World Renowned Gastronomic Experience Offering some of the world’s finest Mediterranean dishes from acclaimed founder and chef executive Costas Spiliadis, the hotel brings a symbol of iconic simplicity to life through divine gastronomy. Simple and refined Mediterranean food packed full of rich flavors awaits, serving the finest fresh seafood from mouth-watering Oysters, fresh Greek Ceviche and wild red Madagascar shrimp to celebrated Greek desserts including the delicious Karidopita and Baklava. Unwind in the heart of the city, and enjoy a selection of blissful and rejuvenating wellness experiences from rooftop yoga to pilates in the boutique gym. Those looking to host exclusive private events can pick from a number of stunning meeting rooms or take matters to new heights in the open-air entertainment terrace. Offering perfectly crafted suites with soft velvet furnishings and wooden floors for whatever the occasion, xenodocheio Milos goes above and beyond to ensure guests needs and desires are exceeded.

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Top Hotels for Afternoon Tea Experiences BY: JUNE DAGNALL

here is no question that afternoon tea is always in style, and it has certainly evolved significantly over the last two hundred years. Culinary chefs these days express their own creative flair and are continually adding new twists to this indulgent British tradition.

Afternoon tea was introduced in England in 1840 by Anne, the seventh Duchess of Bedford. It is said that the Duchess would become hungry around four o’clock in the afternoon. The evening meal in her household was served fashionably late at eight o’clock, thus leaving a long period of time between lunch and dinner. The Duchess asked that a tray of tea, bread, and cake be brought to her room during the late afternoon. This became a habit, and she soon began inviting friends to join her for this ritual. Tea quickly became a stylish social event, and during the 1880’s upper class and society woman would change into long gowns, gloves, and hats for their afternoon tea which was served in the drawing room between four and five o’clock complete with silver teapots, fine linens, elegant teacups and world renowned teas. Traditional afternoon tea typically consists of a selection of dainty sandwiches, scones served with clotted cream and preserves, as well as an assortment of cakes and pastries. There are a few tea etiquette rules that still exist today. Eat sandwiches first and with fingers please, not the cutlery. Warm scones should be enjoyed next and proper etiquette advises that these should be broken in two by hand, not with a knife. Please also remember that extending your pinky finger is a “don’t” when enjoying afternoon tea, and please never cradle the cup in your hands! 48 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

The Plaza - New York City, USA The historic Plaza in New York City has been an iconic destination for afternoon tea for more than 100 years. Magnificently situated in the hotel’s Palm Court, tea guests allude to the fact that they feel as though Central Park has been brought indoors while they enjoy a delightful tea experience under a stained glass dome. Tea choices include selections such as Chinese green tea, English breakfast, and lavender oolong. Patrons dine on delicate sandwiches, pastries and scones all served on Bernardaud china and custom tableware. There are a variety of tea menus, such as the classic Manhattan Tea, or for special occasions guests can order the indulgent Grand Imperial Tea for two, complete with caviar service. There is a signature tea for children featuring peanut butter and jelly finger sandwiches, cake pops, cotton candy and caffeine-free tea. After Eloise, the children’s book character, lives at the Plaza and in her books often enjoys afternoon tea here.

Claridge’s - London, England Claridge’s has been serving afternoon tea for 150 years. For a century or more, their Executive Chefs have remained faithful to the classic combination of finger sandwiches, scones served warm, and sweet pastries. Prepared and served fresh each day, the menu faithfully follows the traditional combination of sweet and savory. The ingredients include British specialties such as poached Scottish salmon, and their pastries change to reflect the fruits of the season. Of course, at the heart of the experience is the tea itself. From a rich Oolong to the refreshingly complex Claridge’s Blend, there is a tea that will complement your tea experience perfectly. Afternoon tea is served from a specially designed stand and on the very finest bone china and silverware, both made to a unique Claridge’s design. Guests enjoy their experience while being immersed in the 1930s art deco design of the Foyer and Reading Room.

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Fairmont Empress Hotel - Victoria, Canada Tea at the Empress has been as they say, “hot and steamy since 1908” when the hotel first opened. A grand tradition for over a century, the world renowned Fairmont Empress has served England’s most beloved ritual of afternoon tea to famed royalty, celebrities and dignitaries alike. Afternoon tea is elegantly served in the timeless Lobby Lounge overlooking the beautiful inner harbor, and provides live classical piano accompaniment. The Empress offers twenty one rare, ethically produced teas showcasing varieties from all major growing areas around the world. Indulge in delicate sandwiches, freshly baked Empress raisin scone with homemade clotted cream and jam, as well as a decadent dessert tier. Tea at the Empress can also be enjoyed by their tiny Prince and Princesses between the ages of 5 and 12 years old to feel like royalty while partaking in this coveted tradition.

Hotel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel – Paris, France Located just off the famed Champs-Élysées, one will find the Hôtel de Crillon. This stunning hotel opened in 1909 and is a must do Parisian destination at tea time for both travelers and locals alike. Afternoon tea at Jardin d’Hiver, which translates to winter garden in French, is a glamorous affair served in a gorgeous room filled with plump couches, plush armchairs and dripping with chandeliers. There is also an outside terrace that is very popular. Tea service brings out the sweet desserts supplied by head pastry chef Matthieu Carlin. The surprising menu also has some original inclusions, such as a lobster roll and puffed brioches as an alternative choice to scones. Sip on a hot drink and munch on savory finger sandwiches, three pastries, homemade scones or homemade brioche, and jam and clotted cream.

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The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia The elegant Tea Lounge in the Majestic Wing of the hotel is open to the breezes off the lawn fronting the hotel. The old-fashioned grid ceilings feature classic cutglass lighting with antique brass fittings. Cozy arrays of comfortable arm chairs with subdued lighting from table lamps provide the perfect setting for English Afternoon Tea with a Malaysian twist. Indulge in a high tea set that’s fit for royalty with the Colonial Cafe’s Majestic Afternoon Tea, featuring a classic spread of scones with clotted cream and jams, finger sandwiches, cakes and delicious savories served piping hot. Your own individual tea pot is put on a warmer so servers don’t have to constantly add hot water.

Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe – South Africa Elegant and refined can best describe the High Tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Traditional afternoon silver tea service can be enjoyed every day on an outdoor terrace with stunning views of the Victoria Falls Bridge. You can hear the thundering of the falls while you sip on your tea and nibble on decadent pastries, scones and sandwiches. One of the oldest hotels in Africa, enjoying tea on Stanley's Terrace comes with all of the traditional accoutrement, as guests are transported back in time thanks to the elegant, historic location. Built by the British in 1904, this expansive Edwardian hotel features dazzling manicured lawns and gardens, and stands right next to the Falls.

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Gunners Barracks Tea Room – Sydney, Australia Built in 1873 from locally quarried sandstone, the Gunners Barracks which has now been beautifully restored, was formerly an officers’ mess, forming part of the fortifications at Georges Heights built for the defense of Sydney. Tables are covered with damask table cloths and set with pretty “Country Roses” Royal Albert bone china, and high tea was presented on an elegant plated tiered stand. Relish freshly baked scones with clotted cream and preserves followed by finely cut sandwiches, savory pastries and delectable petit cakes all create daily by our highly skilled team of chef ’s. To compliment is Asia’s largest selection of Ronnefeldt teas, a total of 41 specialty teas for you to choose from.

Grand Hyatt – Hong Kong - China The popular afternoon tea served in Tiffin Restaurant, features three tiers filled with savory and sweet delicacies with a distinctly French flavor. This is complemented by the live dessert stations and ice-cream counter. Echoing Tiffin’s namesake and heritage, the takeaway version of the afternoon tea set consists of three compartments meticulously stacked together to resemble the famous “tiffin” boxes from the British Raj era. The box is adorned with Tiffin’s signature tableware pattern for you to recreate an elegant tea time at home.

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The Biltmore Mayfair, LXR Hotels & Resorts – London, England Stepping inside the Tea Lounge at The Biltmore Mayfair, guests will find a classic London afternoon tea experience beckoning to them. Located in London's luxurious Grosvenor Square, surrounded by parks and gardens, tea at The Biltmore Mayfair is a definitely sumptuous experience. The afternoon tea menu highlights fresh classic UK produce featuring English cucumber, black truffle, and heritage tomato sandwiches, scones with Cornish clotted cream, fresh Kent strawberries, and chocolate mousse with Scottish raspberry jelly. Whether you keep things simple with just a cup of tea from the trolley and a scone, or add a glass of Champagne to the full afternoon tea service, this English tradition is a must-do for anyone hoping for a classic teatime experience.

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai - India With an established tradition of afternoon tea dating back to the early 20th century, the landmark Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is a historic city institution. Tea is served in the Sea Lounge, with art deco furnishings and old colonial charm from 1903 when the hotel was first built. This iconic room is aptly named, as guests can catch great views of the ships on the harbor before they set sail on the Arabian Sea. In the evenings, guests can enjoy live music. The tea service is offered buffet style, with local Indian favorites along with a nod to the classic British favorites.

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Freewheeling to the glaciers in

NEW ZEALAND BY: ANDREW MARSHALL

“It’s magnificent cycling country,” declared 65-year-old Andy Bremner when I met him inside the Adventure Cycles shop in Auckland. Tanned, fit and sporting a milewide grin, Andy was completing his third season pedaling New Zealand and had so far clocked up 3000 km. "There’s nothing I like better than to pack up each morning, load the panniers on the racks, look over the handlebars and head off down that open road,” he said. With its magnificent volcanic landscapes, gushing geysers and rugged coastlines backed by prehistoric rainforest, there can be no better way to experience this cool green land, and certainly no better speed, than by bicycle.

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y plan was to cycle from the North Island to the glaciers on the South Island, but when I got down to the actual route planning, the line on my map zigzagged all over the place in an attempt to take in just some of the abundant points of interest. It was a gray drizzly Auckland morning when I caught the ferry to the Coromandel Peninsula – a densely forested coastal strip across the Firth of Thames. The boat had barely pulled alongside the dock before I was off, legs pumping, and the salt air fresh in my lungs, the bitumen rolling steadily beneath my wheels. Cycling along the coast I passed through the characterful towns of Manaia, Waikawau and Tapu. By late afternoon I'd covered my first 50 km with just enough time to set up camp in Thames, and cook quick pasta on my stove before dark. Day two is always the hardest on a cycle tour. The reality of stiff muscles and a tender behind hit home as I loaded up the bike and hit the road. But a couple of hours later the stunning scenery was enough to distract my mind from aching body parts. And besides, the first of many highlights was within reach. In the coming days I turned inland to the Rotorua region, well-known for it's geysers, hot springs, mud pools and shimmering lakes. I spent endless days in the saddle skirting the very heart of the North Island, along the shores of beautiful Lake Taupo, New Zealand's largest lake and onto the Tongariro National Park where I camped for a couple of nights to take a break from cycling and experience one of the world's best day walks - the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 55

With its fine collection of active volcanoes, Tongariro National Park is one of New Zealand's most spectacular parks, and the 19.4 km Tongariro Alpine Crossing (which takes about 7-9 hours) traverses this surreal landscape dominated by three volcanoes: Mt Ruapehu (2797m) the highest and most active, Mt Tongariro (1968m), the oldest but still considered active, and the much younger Mt Ngauruhoe (2291m). Volcanic craters, brilliantly colored volcanic lakes, hot springs, glacial valleys, cones and lava flows are some of the many highlights of this stunning World Heritage Site. The crossing from the North Island to the South Island is always a psychological milestone for any cyclist. Leaving the cultural and artistic hub of Wellington, I rode the ferry to the pretty little town of Picton, situated at the head of the Queen Charlotte Sound on the South Island. The lack of traffic was immediately apparent as I pedaled off towards Nelson, reveling in magnificent coastal views over the Marlborough Sound. For the weary cyclist like 56 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

myself, the laid back town of Nelson represented a cosmopolitan oasis; waterholes at local pubs, great restaurants and the best chance to stock up on provisions for my 2-3 day journey inland and across to Westport on the west coast. Cycling New Zealand is certainly a challenge but despite its hilly nature, it attracts cyclists from all over the globe and stopping to chat is a common occurrence. “You’ve got about 5km of climbing ahead of you, but it’s a great downhill after that," is typical of the comments from fellow cyclists you meet on the road. From Dutch couples, members of the Cross Canada Cycle Tour Society, single Kiwis, to super fit German couples towing trailers of gear behind the latest in bicycle technology, there seemed no limit to age or nationality, all sharing a great sense of adventure and camaraderie. From Westport to Greymouth, South Highway 6 hugs the west coast as tightly as a pair of Lycra bike shorts. In a series of dramatic switchbacks the road snakes between the white-capped breakers out to sea, and the foothills of the rainforest-clad Paparoa Ranges, cloaked in tree ferns and stands of ancient beech, rata and rimu. After days in the saddle sampling some of the world’s most glorious scenery, I was finally within reach of my goal, the Franz Josef Glacier situated in the World Heritage Westland National Park. The glacier along with nearby Fox glacier is unique, for nowhere else on earth at this latitude have they advanced so close to the sea.

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But cycling is not the way to go in this land of ice; it’s much better to take the helicopter. The whir of the chopper’s blades sounded like a gigantic insect when it came in to land, sending a blast of wind towards the small group of waiting travelers. The athletic figure of outdoor guide Murray Naylor crouched low beside the helicopter as he beckoned each person over one by one. This was the start of my heli-hike – and within a few minutes the helicopter was flying over an immense river of ice that tumbled down a densely forested valley towards the sea. After superb panoramic views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains, we landed high up on top of the glacier between the icefalls for the start of our two-hour guided trip. 58 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

“This is one of the most dynamic glaciers in the world,” Murray told us as we donned warm hats and jackets to combat the sudden blast of cold air. “At times the glacier can move at up to five meters a day, over ten times as fast as glaciers in the Swiss Alps.”I quickly found myself immersed in a surreal landscape, surrounded by the sculptural beauty of ice. Fluted towers, eroded pinnacles, tunnels, pools, crevasses and frozen waves. The surface looked thin and brittle in places, but can in fact be up to 150 meters thick. It was an awesome opportunity to experience the type of scenery that is usually the domain of mountaineers. Leaning on my ice axe I took a breather and savored the view. Back down the glacier’s flank a group of hikers created a snaking ribbon of color that contrasted vividly against the white of the ice, putting into perspective the immensity of this frozen world. It seemed the perfect moment to reflect on my bicycle journey. Within a month I’d accomplished what I had set out to do, ride from north to south and reach the glaciers by pedal power-a journey of nearly 2,000 km. Now all that was left was the bus, ferry and train back to Auckland. The thought left me feeling flat. Already I was yearning to be back in the saddle again, with the wind in my face and the beguiling beauty of this green and mountainous land filling my view.

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Nevada’s Weirdest Wonders T

ravelers looking for a super strange or off-thebeaten-path trip idea, look no further. Travel Nevada released its inaugural list of the state’s Seven Weirdest Wonders. Just like the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World are proof of humanity’s ingenuity, Nevada’s Seven Weirdest Wonders are definitive proof that the Silver State is filled with abundant unique places. These locations aren’t just fun to see and talk about – experiences like these can transform vacationers by opening their eyes to things they never imagined.

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BY: TRACIE BARNTHOUSE

Alien Research Center Almost everyone has heard of Area 51. While you definitely can’t storm it (seriously, you’ll be arrested before you can say “ET”), you can go inside the Alien Research Center and get a feel for what those little green creatures might have found after crash-landing in the area. As the gateway to the world-famous Extraterrestrial Highway, the Alien Research Center is the perfect way to start your own alien hunt. Extraterrestrial enthusiasts and skeptics alike won’t want to miss stopping at the gift shop to stock up on various alien-related knick-knacks at this one-of-a-kind Nevada experience.

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International Car Forest of the Last Church Rethink any preconceived notions of a typical forest with trees and greens. This open air gallery comprises more than 40 graffiti cars, each a unique masterpiece. The “forest” has no artist statement or bulletin, so visitors are free to interpret the surrounding art in limitless ways.

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Clown Motel If you haven’t stayed in a hotel since… well, who can even remember? Make the first overnight one you’ll never forget. The Clown Motel in Tonopah is the perfect place to get over your fear of clowns — or maybe make it worse? We’ll let you decide. No matter your goal, this motel has arguably the largest private collection of clownthemed memorabilia, and is a landmark that makes Nevada unique. Oh, and did we mention it’s situated right next to a historic (allegedly haunted) cemetery? Of COURSE it is!

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Goldwell Open Air Museum Among some of the world’s most distinctive pieces of experiential art is the Goldwell Open Air Museum. More an “experience” than a “museum,” Goldwell boasts seven colossal structures, including a ghostly, life-size version of Leonardo Da Vinci’s painting of the Last Supper; a 25-foot pink woman constructed of cinder blocks; and a gleaming tangle of chrome car accessories. Forget the velvet ropes of a traditional museum – visitors are encouraged to step right into these pieces of art.

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Fly Geyser Imagine digging a hole in the middle of the desert and suddenly getting sprayed by hot water as if you hit a pipe. You walk away, only to learn that years later, that hole is still spewing, but is now a 12-foot geyser with a rainbow of colored rocks surrounding it. That’s essentially how Fly Geyser came to be, and, after more than 100 years since the first “pipe” was hit, people can still come see this everspewing natural fountain in all its beauty.

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Amazing

STATE PARKS to visit this summer BY: MARGARET MURRAY

tate parks across the United States are typically established by a state to preserve a location on account of its natural beauty, historic interest, or recreational potential. These parks are managed at the State level as opposed to the federal level as in the National Park System. The United States has over 10,000 state parks that span more than 18 million acres across the country. These spaces have become invaluable these last two years when borders were closed and people scrambled to follow their wanderlust. These parks have become extensions of our own back yards providing both exciting adventures as well as peaceful reflection experiences. State parks have some of the most beautiful landscapes and very often are much less busy than the National parks. With thousands to choose from the list is endless so here is a tiny sampling of some of the most popular. Get out the hiking boots and hit the trails!

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Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park - California Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park contains the most old-growth redwoods per acre in California, and in fact seven percent of all old growth redwood trees in the world. The park is located just inland from Northern California’s rugged coastline and near the banks of the Smith River. The almost spiritual track of dense ancient redwood forest is best for hiking, forest bathing and swimming, with 20 miles of hiking and nature trails offered in this lush rainforest. The park was named for Jedediah Strong Smith, who in the 1820s became the first white man to explore the interior of northern California. Marvel in the incredibly humbling experience of standing at the base of an old growth redwood tree as you walk through misty ferns and ancient greens.

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Harris Beach State Park – Oregon Harris Beach State Park is a Pacific Northwest coastal paradise located on Oregon’s rugged south coast. This beautiful park is known for birdwatching, whale watching and beach combing. Sandy beaches are divided by rocky cliffs. Tide pools are home to an abundance of marine life for tide pool exploring. You will spot seals swimming off-shore as impressive wave’s crash around you. This is also home to Bird Island, a National Wildlife Refuge where you will find puffins, Aleutian Canada Geese and terns. In the spring and fall seasons be watching for the migrating gray whales. Bird Island, also referred to as Goat Island, is Oregon’s largest off-shore island. There are campgrounds and yurts available for visitors and the park is suitable for year round camping.

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Custer State Park – South Dakota Custer State Park, one of the country’s top wildlife parks is comprised almost 100,000 acres located in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The park draws comparison to Yellowstone National Park when it comes to spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife. The park is home to a large variety of wildlife including Antelope, elk, and nearly 1300 bison offering visitors the chance to have close encounters with these permanent residents. Trail rides, scenic drives, bike rides and safari tours are perfect ways to explore this impressive South Dakota attraction. Enjoy water recreation in Custer State Park’s lakes, and appreciate panoramic views of the Black Hills with incredible vantage points of Mount Rushmore.

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Cheaha State Park – Alabama Cheaha State Park is a publicly owned recreation area located in northern clay and southwestern Cleburne counties in Alabama. It is the oldest state park in Alabama dating back to 1933. It is located on the southernmost tip of the Appalachian mountain chain. Almost three thousand acres of granite bounders and ancient trees sitting high above sea level. This woodsy retreat and lush waterfalls offer miles of hiking paths to sink your hiking boots into. The park is surrounded by the Talladega National Forest and has all the comforts you need including a restaurant serving burgers and stone baked pizzas. You can rent stone cabins or opt for the campground. There are also two fascinating museums within the park. The Native American history museum and the Civilian Conservation Corps.

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Devil’s Den State Park – Arkansas Devil’s Den State Park nestled in the Lee Creek Valley was selected as a state park site in the 1930s. The Civilian Conservation Corps used native materials to build the park’s rustic-style wood and stone structures that mirror the surrounding natural beauty. It now stands as one of the most intact CCC sites in the U.S., with a legacy you can see in its trails and buildings. The park is built for year round recreation with trails for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding leading to the surrounding Ozark National Forest. There are also cabins and campsites ranging from modern to primitive to suit your individual wants. Fossils of coral and crinoids can be found along the banks and within Lee Creek at Devil’s Den State Park. The renowned Ozark Mountain Biking Festival is held here each spring.

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#WHERETONEXT WESTERN CANADA 72 . DRIFTTRAVEL.COM

Join us as we journey in high style through the magnificent Canadian Rockies aboard the iconic Rocky Mountaineer.

DRIFT Travel Magazine Spring 2022

Articles inside

Nevada’s Weird Wonders

Afternoon Tea Around The World

Hawaiian Dreams

America’s Great State Parks

New Zealand on Two Wheels