D I N I N G G U I DE SH O WC A S E
Gazpacho
NEW MEXICO COOKING & CANTINA — BRINGING AUTHENTIC NEW MEXICAN CUISINE TO DURANGO SINCE 1991 by Kathleen O’Connor
Longtime Durangoan Matt Arias knows a little something about New Mexican chiles. Both his father and grandfather were born and raised in Albuquerque, amid the rich culinary traditions centered on the iconic red and green chiles that grow there. In fact, New Mexico is the only U.S. state that touts an official state question referencing the passion they have for their chiles: “red or green?” Incidentally, some answer “Christmas!” Arias, owner of Gazpacho New Mexico Cooking and Cantina, fondly recalls how his grandfather would not eat a meal without a bottle of red chile sauce on the table. “New Mexican food was always a part of our family tradition,” Arias said. Luckily for both locals and out-of-towners, Arias has artfully woven these family traditions throughout the dishes served at Gazpacho. Many New Mexican favorites can be found on the menu, such as the Santa Fe stacked enchiladas (deemed by one local resident as “the best enchiladas in town”), sweet or savory stuffed sopapillas, and the New Mexican classic carne adovada, prepared with slow-roasted pork in Arias’ authentic red chile, inspired by his grandfather’s own recipe. The red chile preparation is no feat for the impatient. From deseeding, cleaning, and soaking the red chile pods to pureeing and cooking them, time spent from start to finish is about six hours and well worth the effort. “It takes longer to make but produces a much tastier product,” Arias remarked. While some may espouse the addition of flour-based thickening agents to their red chile, Arias remains true to his New Mexican heritage on the matter. “We don’t use any powders or flour in our red chile. It just produces a different taste,” he said. But let’s not forget about the green chile! As mid-August hits in New Mexico, and the chiles boast their signature bright-green color, Arias makes one of several trips to the village of Hatch to bring back chiles directly from the farmers to the tables of Gazpacho. In addition to their use in such dishes as the Chile Relleno Plate and Green Chile Cheeseburger (a local favorite as well as a musthave if visiting Gazpacho for the first time), the green chiles are also brought back for roasting in Gazpacho’s Chile Roast Festival. The annual event began as a promotion and quickly gained popularity for those in the area seeking bulk-roasted chiles. Gazpacho recently celebrated the festival’s 30th year. It has been said that necessity is the 54 Durango Magazine Winter/Spring
Mark Patrick