D I N I N G G U I DE SH O WC A S E
Primi
ELEVATED FOOD AT AFFORDABLE PRICES by Billy Grimes
It all started with a 2010 bike tour through Italy, when Tracy and Jarrod Regan fell in love with primi piatti – first courses served in local restaurants, which always included fresh pasta with delicious sauces. During their travels, the panini sandwiches and pasta sustained them while they bicycled through the food-loving country. Their dream of sharing this simple and delicious fare with others came to fruition when they opened Primi Pasta & Wine Bar across from Buckley Park, at the corner of 12th Street and Main Avenue. Jarrod, a longtime Durango resident, has 20 years of restaurant experience, and Tracy is a certified sommelier. Together, they previously ran the Raider Ridge Café. Jarrod loves pasta and using fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms; Tracy loves wine – especially hand selecting Italian wines for Primi, complete with tasting notes and suggested food pairings. Wines are rotated seasonally to keep it interesting. The couple opened Primi in January 2020, when their daughter, Emma, was just three months old. A short time later, they had to close for two months due to COVID-19. The Regans never thought of Primi being a takeout restaurant, but as they adapted to pandemic rules, they began to offer bags of house-made noodles and jars of sauce. They were surprised by the demand and heartened by the support; it carried them through that strange year. Although they’re located at the north end of restaurant row on Main Avenue, the Regans believe their customers seek them out with intention. In fact, 60 percent of their clientele are return diners. An added benefit of the location is fewer crowds and better parking options, and the green space of Buckley Park across the street provides a calming tableau as well. The first thing you notice upon arriving is the welcoming piazza, or plaza, located street-side with its red umbrellas and café lights. This is the perfect spot for Primi’s daily happy hour, from 3 to 5 p.m. On the busy Thursday we visited, the piazza was full, so we chose to eat inside. When you enter the spacious dining room, you’re directed to the counter, where helpful staff describe the daily food and wine specials and help you with your order. By taking servers out of the mix, Primi is able to provide elegant food at affordable prices; they call it “elevated fast-casual.” Behind the well-stocked bar is a WineKeeper, a preservation and dispensing
66 Durango Magazine Winter/Spring
Brandon Mathis
Brandon Mathis
system that holds 12 bottles (four whites and eight reds). Each bottle is hooked up to a tank of nitrogen, which prevents oxygen from contacting the wine and keeps it fresh longer. Customers have the opportunity to taste a variety of unique wines without feeling committed to buying a whole bottle. All the wines offered are from Italy, other than the keg of Sutcliffe Chardonnay. Tracy believes there are Italian wines to please every palate. “There’s something to be said for a glass of Italian red paired with pasta and red sauce. They work together so beautifully.”
I started my meal with a refreshing glass of Prosecco, and my companions tried a couple of the craft cocktails: the Alpine Spritz (Amaro Nonino, lemon, Prosecco, soda, and torched rosemary) and the Old-Fashioned Amaro (Four Roses bourbon, Ramazzotti Amaro, Demerara, and Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters). Amaro (Italian for bitter) is an herbal liqueur commonly consumed as an after-dinner digestif. Our antipasto course included Burrata Caprese (local heirloom tomatoes, local basil, extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt, five-yearold balsamic vinegar, and burrata cheese),
