WELL-BEING Digital travel magazine about villages and slow tourism
Issue 02 2019 Free edition
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e-borghi travel 02 www.e-borghitravel.com Publisher Salvatore Poerio direzione@3scomunicazione.com Publishing coordinator Luciana Francesca Rebonato coordinamento@e-borghi.com Art director Ivan Pisoni grafica@e-borghi.com Editorial office Simona Poerio segreteria@e-borghi.com With the collaboration of Antonella Andretta, Alessandra Boiardi, Simona P.K.Daviddi, Renata Giolli, Cinzia Meoni, Luca Sartori, Giulio Tellarini, Marco Raccichini Translation Beatrice Lavezzari Promotion and Advertising 3S Comunicazione – Milano Cosimo Pareschi pareschi@e-borghi.com Piersilvio Volpato volpato@e-borghi.com Giovanna Fiori fiori@e-borghi.com Editing 3S Comunicazione Corso Buenos Aires, 92 20124 Milano info@3scomunicazione.com tel. 0287071950 – fax 0287071968 The use of our website and our on-line magazine is subject to the following terms: all rights reserved. Any section of www.e-borghi.com can’t be reproduced, recorded or broadcasted in any form or by any means, be it electronic or mechanical or through photocopies, recording or other systems without a previous written authorization by 3S Comunicazione. Although a careful check of the information that are contained in this issue has been carried out, 3S Comunicazione won’t be considered responsible for any mistakes or omissions. The opinions being given by contributors are necessarily the same as the ones given by 3S Comunicazione. Unless different directions, the individual copyrights belong to the contributors. All efforts have been made to track down the owners of the photos’ copyright in case they were not taken by our photographers. We’re apologizing in advance for possible omissions and we’re available to enter further clarifications in the next issues. © 2019 e-borghi
ENJOY THE BEAUTY OF ITALY
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eLuciana Francesca Rebonato facebook.com/lfrancesca.rebonato
“I
don’t think a man is free if he’s never in leisure” by Marco Tullio Cicerone (106 a.C. - 43 a.C.) whose quote has been running along the centuries and it has reached the third millennium to be so contemporary to be found on Facebook. So the holistic archetype “salus per aquam” (the health through the water) is not surprising and it’s very modern: the physical and mental well-being comes before the renewal of yourselves. So take it is easy, slow-down, travel in Italy and discover the villages to regain your own harmony. This second issue of e-borghi magazine will lead you through the discovery of places where the verb “linger” gets a wider meaning: taking a break and experiencing its positive consequences. The villages and the well-being areas we are going to suggest you match the idea of a slow tourism since the well-being can’t be tasted at its best if you are in a hurry but it must follow the pace of nature. We will first take you to Caderzone Terme and San Candido in Trentino Alto-Adige, to San Pellegrino Terme in Lombardy, to Bertinoro and Castrocaro in Romagna then to Marche, in Genga and to Frasassi to see the amazing shapes of its caves. We’ll also take you to the green Umbria, to Borgo San Pietro and Saturnia Thermal Baths in the district of Manciano, in the genuine Tuscany then to Fiuggi in Ciociaria in Lazio. We’ll go from North to South around a route that will touch the coastline of the cyclopes in Sicily framed by the Etna’s lava and shaped by the waves of the Mediterranean sea. By leafing through the pages of the magazine you’ll find lots of hints and ideas for your next adventures, they always come with practical advice regarding the accommodation facilities, the food & beverage and the shopping and our attention is always focused on traditions and local typical products as well. We are reading from your emails that you have particularly liked the different columns of the magazine so you’ll find them again and they will be even more appealing. Take your time and read because this means feeling good too. Luciana Francesca Rebonato coordinatore editoriale
Summary San Candido
San Pellegrino
Manciano
Genga
San Pietro Aquaertus
Bertinoro
Caderzone
Castrocaro Terme
Fiuggi
Riviera of the Cyclops
Crossborder: Croatia
Out of place holidays
Tables and typical products
Legends
Curiosities
Review
The backpack
Simona PK Daviddi
facebook.com/simona.pk.daviddi
Alessandra Boiardi twitter.com/aleboiardi
Luca Sartori
twitter.com/LucaSartoriIT
Bolzano, Trentino-Alto Adige
San Candido, a destination for all seasons
Simona PK Daviddi
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an Candido is set in the unspoilt park of the three Peaks in the upper Pusteria Valley, it’s an ancient village that can still combine the traditions from South Tyrol with the warm Italian hospitality and the middle European atmosphere along its streets. The Austrian border is very near and its vocation is the well being. The well being is featured by breathless landscapes, you can spend hours
in front of the amazing three peaks of Lavaredo to see the way they change from dawn to sunset when their colours go from the purple to the bright orange or you can chose among a wide range of sports activities that are offered in outdoor spaces of rare beauty in all seasons and you can also enjoy the food and its great variety, from the typical “canederli” to the Spätzle and the delicious apples strudel.
Winter: not just skiing
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an Candido is one of the best loved Winter resorts in the Dolomites thanks to its skiing facilities of the three peaks of Lavaredo where there are around 110 kilometres of tracks at your disposal for all levels among which you can also find the steepest track in Italy, the Holzriese, with a 71% slope. Skiing is only one of the sports activities you can do in this area. The magic of snow in this valley meets all needs, it is great for the cross-coun-
try ski lovers who have around 200 kilometres of tracks at their disposal of different levels of difficulty, the Braies tracks and the Fiscalina Valley as well, they can snowboard in the snow-park, they can hike by using the snowshoes along a number of tracks and ski rings surrounded by nature, you can go for amazing walks in the surroundings and you can also have fun with the sled and in the evening.
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Acquafun
A plunge in the mountains Alessandra Boiardi
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hen you feel like getting away from your daily stress you also feel like rewarding yourself in a particular way. A detail can sometimes make the difference, sometimes you need to take your time and take care of yourself, to have fun with your family, to relax with your friends in an unusual place. It’s even better If you can do all that while you are
on holiday. That’s why Acquafun in San Candido could be the right place for you since it is much more than a common pool: it’s a water fun-park full of surprising features among which its position in the mountain landscape, the invigorating view of the Alps, the cool air you breath and the most beautiful nature from Alto Adige.
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t’s a place for everyone, particularly for the families, the water’s temperature is always around 31 degrees, the pools are great since you can have a lot of fun, you can play with the water, you can face the challenge of the big slide which is 75 metres long or you can plunge into the pools
where the kids can swim surrounded by an exotic garden and there is also a pool of 25 metres where swimmers can train and do swimming competitions. A beautiful green area where you can lie down, sunbathe and relax is also at your disposal in Summer.
Well-being with a view
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re you really sure you can take advantage of the time you like spending in a sauna? Did you know that the changing of temperature is what really makes you feel better? The five types of sauna, the kneipp route and the hot and cold water pools of Acquafun are designed for that purpose that is offering the best relaxing time on the panoramic terrace as well.
At full fitness
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eeping fit also means training your body so at Acquafun there’s a team of trainers that gives you the opportunity to start a customized training program after you have gone through a number of tests to analyse your needs.
The thousand colours of nature
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he nature in the Dolomites is a burst of colours in all seasons: from the endless blossomed fields in Spring to the light intense green in Summer and the bright red and the red ochre in Fall. The colours match the different scents: the mountain flowers that the bees turn into honey, the forests scents of the warm Summer days, the mushrooms and the moss when it’s starting to get cold. If you want to be surrounded by all that you can go for amazing walks, you can have two or three days trips, you can stay in the mountains
huts to have something to eat or rest at night. It’s not just about the Nordic walking, there are also several tracks where you can go mountain-biking or horse-riding and you can obser-
ve the endless green fields, the forests and the pastures from the air balloon or you can also try a paragliding experience. The bobsled facility on the rail is also available for kids.
DOLOMITI MOUNTAIN SPORTS HIKING | BIKESCHOOL | KIDSCLUB
MTB-TOURS IN THE DOLOMITES DOLOMITI MOUNTAIN SPORTS 39038 Innichen-Vierschach · Schattenweg 2d · PUNKA 39038 San Candido-Versciaco · Via Ombrosa 2D · PUNKA
Tel. +39 388 8586028 · info@dolomiti-ms.com www.dolomiti-ms.com Treffpunkt | Punto d’incontro | Meeting point SERVICE CENTER PUNKA Vierschach / Versciaco
Stone beauty
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lthough the nature is the absolute protagonist of a holiday in San Candido, after spending an entire day skiing or walking in the forests to cool up, the beautiful handful of stone houses featured by their sloping roofs hide more than a surprise to end your day. The peaks that are all around offer amazing views enriched with the beautiful tower-bells that pop op everywhere, the one with the shape of an onion of the Church of San Michele is stunning and it faces the huge quadrangular tower bell of the Collegiata of San Candido that is considered
the most important Roman building of South Tyrol dates back to 1043 but it was built on the remains of a previous Benedictine Monastery dating back to the year 769. The area is also enriched with a number of nice cafÊs, pubs, restaurants and inns. An address you can’t miss is the DoloMythos, the museum of natural history that sounds a fairy tale while outside the city the hunting castle that dates back to the past century and the Wildbad Baths built at the beginning of the XVIth century near four sulphurous mineral sources deserve a visit.
A treasure chest full of gifts
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ou don’t have to be trekking or hiking experts to discover the several natural gems that you can reach from San Candido: a walk along the tracks leaving from the village will enable you to see the massive fortress of Baranci, a peak whose German name Haunold tells about a legend of the giants Hauno and Huno who fought in this land and you can still see the drawings of their deeds on the walls of some houses. A few kilometres far
(ten minutes by car) you can discover a real jewel, the Lake of Dobbiaco, it’s a tiny lake surrounded by the green forests where the bravest ones can also try a diving experience in Summer. Then around twenty kilometres farther there’s another lake of rare beauty, it is the lake Braies, called the “gem of the alpine lakes” because of its bright blue colour that sometimes turn into charming emerald green shades.
Sleeping, tasting, buying Luca Sartori
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n San Candido, in the heart of the High Pusteria Valley you can spend your time in the magic facilities that are at your disposal in the village. The hotel Cavallino Bianco is the symbol of history and tradition, its fame is related to the railway the used to link the Pusteria Valley to the Eastern Alps. It has been aknowledged as one of the best historical buildings since 2014 and the hotel offers to its guests the room of the Lord, the room of the Emperor and the room of the King. The hotel Baranci is another elegant place, it has been totally restyled, it’s five minutes far from the historical centre and the pedestrian area and it’s very near to the ski-lifts. It combines the modern wooden design to the very good cooking. The Boutique Hotel Zenana’s suite rooms are well known, they all look out on the mountains of the high Pusteria Valley: from Zenobia to Lakshmi, from Giselle to Audrey, from Anastasia to Samblana, from Elena to Modjadji and Coco. At the restaurant Walter you can eat the traditional IGP speck from Alto Adige, the canederli with cheese
and melted butter, the pappardelle (a type of pasta) with the roe sauce, the grilled veal steak, the lamb chop with the herbs and the fillet of beef cooked on the stone. At the restaurant Jora Mountain Dining the alpine cooking meets the Mediterranean one so the gourmets can find their paradise there, the typical soup of canederli with the speck is followed by the rich lunch from Tyrol with the “kaminwurz” and the typical cheese as well as the chestnuts tagliolini with the chamois sauce. The barbecue of potatoes and beef, the apples strudel are the specialities of the farmhouse Glinzhof, a place located in a breathless landscape. You can’t miss a stop at the Wachtler, one of the best shops of the Dolomites if you want to bring back a souvenir or a taste from this area of the Alps: you can find the chocolate, the typical sweets, the jam and a number of different types of artistic objects to collect. If you like the speck you must stop at the Alpine Hut of Speck where you can buy the traditional speck, the fillet of speck, the reserve type or the speck of boar.
San Candido
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Bolzano, Trentino-Alto Adige Inhabitants: 3352 Altitude: 1175 m s.l.m. Surface area: 79,85 km² Patron saint: San Candido
The complex of Frasassi Caves is one of the most fascinating and grandiose underground routes in the world. A long itinerary in which a surreal landscape has arisen. An enchanted world that brings us back to the origins of nature. A complete underground ecosystem in which it’s still possible to observe the formation of concretions, the drops that dig and build their architectures and in which continues undisturbed for millions of years. booking@frasassi.com
www.frasassi.com Grotte di Frasassi, Genga - Ancona
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Bergamo, Lombardia
San Pellegrino Terme,
the “four season� well-being Cinzia Meoni
Cinzia Meoni
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Luca Sartori
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ater is the leading theme in San Pellegrino Terme, a village in the heart of the Brembana Valley where relax and cuddles are daily pleasures in the landscape of the Orobie Pre-Alps. The thermal water from the source Vita and its therapeutic properties have been approved by the Health Department since 1992. So this village has become an oasis of well-being where you can take care of yourself
and try all the customized invigorating treatments far from your daily busy life. Relaxing in the mountains, the cycle routes, the route from Zogno to Piazza Brembana along more than 20 kilometres and the many possibilities to explore the valley from a different point of view by kayaking in the river Brembo or by going fishing make this village an ideal destination to be lived throughout the whole year.
Art Nouveau is all around
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n San Pellegrino Terme time stopped at the beginning of the XXth century, in the middle of the Belle Époque when the life enjoyment used to dominate the feelings of the upper-middle classes that were searching for leisure activities that could be easily reached by their carriages. If you walk along this place you can still sense the elegance of that time when the Romanov or the Savoia families used to go there to “go through waters”. Between the end of the XIXth century and the beginning of the XXth century the village near Bergamo became one of the most glamorous “villes d’eaux” in Eu-
rope thanks to the construction of the Casinò, the Grand Hotel, the mineral water bottling plants, the constructions of beautiful private villas and finally thanks to the construction of the Thermal Baths and the room of Soda Drinks, a real triumph of Art Nouveau. If you visit these places you’ll go back in time and you’ll see how the wealthy people used to spend an entire season at the Thermal Baths and used to relax by listening to good music, by attending dance parties and by eating very good food. You can enjoy all these cuddles too after more than one century and you can quietly and fully sip them.
The healing water
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an Pellegrino is an icon of water. You can’t leave this village without making a toast. The legend goes that Leonardo Da Vinci, Federico Fellini, Salvatore Quasimodo have been among the most famous supporters of the “healing water” of San Pellegrino since 1200. The village is an ideal destination for the ones who are seeking for a relaxing time thanks to the healing effects of the source water. Water comes out of three
main sources at 26 degrees of temperature and it is a mix of different sources, Palazzolo, Salaroli and Fonte Vecchia, they come down from the rocks before coming out of the soil when they are pure and rich of mineral salts. To make the mineral aftertaste sweeter the bubbles were added at the beginning of the XXth century so the village of San Pellegrino became a symbol of sprinkling water as well.
Luca Sartori Alessandra Boiardi
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he history of San Pellegrino water is the history of an Italian elegant icon: it’s an example of the best way to come together according to the beauty of the Italian way of life. The San Pellegrino water has been well known since the Middle Ages. The first bottling activities started in the XIXth century when the first thermal baths services were offered in the private houses and the first European Thermal Baths facilities started their activity. The San Pellegrino company started to bottle the water that comes out of the sources of the Alpes in the Brembana Valley in 1899. In 1932 the San Pellegrino company launched the orange juice and in 1956 it launched another historical soft drink that immediately became very popular, the Chinotto. In 1961 the production of Bitter Sanpellegrino started up, it is known as the Sanbittèr nowadays. One billion bottles were produced and sold in 2010 including the water, the fizzy drinks and the cocktails. The S. Pellegrino water is now an iconic bottle all over the world, it represents a fine and elegant lifestyle and it can be seen on the tables of the best restaurants in the world. S. Pellegrino has been strengthening its role as
an official partner of the fine food and high cooking all over the world in the last century. This combination has acquired a wider meaning since the food has become a cultural and social va-
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The San Pellegrino water,
lue. 2019 is going to be a special year because of the important events related to the food that are going to be held at an International level among which the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in Singapore together with the very important events related to the fashion and the cinema fields mainly the Fashion Week in Milan and the Cinema Festival of Cannes. After 120 years since the starting of the brand, San Pellegrino has decided to celebrate its identity and its unique values by disclosing the Anniversary Edition, a precious object for collectors which has been made even more precious by a restyled detail that looks like the different faces of a diamond. From the celebration of such an anniversary to the future challenges it’s only a small step: the new S. Pellegrino Flagship Factory will soon be inaugurated in S. pellegrino. It’s a modern factory, technologically advanced, designed to match the design of the factory to the surrounding environment and bring advantages to the people who work there and the surrounding area. These are the foundations of the new house of S. Pellegrino mineral water that has been designed by the Danish archistar Bjarke Ingels who runs the Architecture firm BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group). The BIG project has been chosen because they have perfectly understood the values of this brand and its own commitment: the aim is relaunching its important role of the ambassador of the Made in Italy by telling about an amazing brand related to the mineral water that can’t be outsourced and must be produced in a comfortable and rewarding environment. The new factory that needs an overall investment of 90 million euros will take shape following a trend of a virtuous relationships with the local communities that the company has always been taking into consideration in order to cooperate and support the local people.
The group’s brands
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anpellegrino S.p.A owns a number of different brands: S. Pellegrino, Acqua Panna and Sanpellegrino Sparkling Fruit Beverages which are the Company’s International brands. The company’s headquarters are based in Milan. The different brands are distributed in more than 150 countries by means of a number of branches and distributors in all the continents and they represent the excel-
lence related to their origins and their history and they mainly represent the Italian style in the world as a synonym of pleasure, health and well-being. Sanpellegrino S.p.A. is the leader in the field of the beverages in Italy with its range of mineral waters, the cocktails, the drinks and ice tea. S. Pellegrino S.p.A. has always been interested in enhancing this basic commodity for the whole planet’s sake.
Well-being in the green
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ou can relax in San Pellegrino also by hiking up the surrounding mountains along the quiet tracks while you’re enjoying the view of the Orobie Mountains and the Brembana Valley. You can reach the iron cross on the peak of Mount Zucco that watches over the village, the green fields, the forests, the farms with a climb of 245 metres. Reaching the tiny village of Sussaia is an exciting experience through a mule-track and the Tribuli-
na Madrera dedicated to Madonna delle Grazie. The historical cable-way Centro-Vetta is going to be restarted after 100 years. You’ll be able to reach the park on the peak (parco della vetta) and visit the Caves of Dreams (Grotte del Sogno), go through the woods up to the Boione source surrounded by the waterfalls, the natural pools and the Liberty houses of the district of San Pellegrino Kulm.
Caves and diorama
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he Caves of Dreams are among the wonders of nature in San Pellegrino: a tiny net of stalactites and stalagmites with peculiar shapes and colours, it sounds a dreamlike experience. The caves, three pits on a single fault, were discovered in1931 by Emenegildo Zanchi and they were reopened for the tourists in 2012 after a stop that lasted thirty years. On a sunny day you can reach this charming place along a mule-track that goes up from the Casinò to the Vetta district and you
can enjoy the landscape near the river Brembo and the surrounding peaks. On rainy days the Natural Science Museum deserves a visit. It is located at Villa Speranza where you can see a 3D exhibition of one of the most beautiful natural landscapes of the Orobie Pre-Alps: the basin of Calvi with Pizzo del Diavolo in the background and a number of specimen of the area’s vegetation in the foreground. The diorama has been made by the German artist Uve Thuernau.
Tasty San Pellegrino
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number of Doc types of cheese, the polenta taragna covered with a lot of good cheese mainly the Bitto and the Branzi are the protagonist of the tables in this village where the pleasure for life matches the good food. The village and the whole Brembana Valley are a paradise for cheese lovers: you can taste the “strachitunt” Dop, an herbal cheese that has been produced since 1800 by mixing the evening curd with the morning one then the cheese is stewed and it goes through the salting process; the “formai de mut”, the cheese from the mountain pastures from the Alta Val Brembana including the
taleggio Dop is a must as well while the Agrì from Valtorta must be tasted too since it belongs to the Slow Food Movement. Let’s mention the historical Bitto, the stracchino cheese from the Valleys and the Branzi. A place of honour on the tables of San Pellegrino Terme is given to the chestnuts that are used to make the gnocchi (a type of pasta), the soups, the sweets and the typical dishes of hare meat and venison with the wild herbs among which there is the “parùch”, the wild spinach that is mixed with the cream and the cheese to become a fantastic sauce to be tasted with the sausages and the corn polenta.
Sleeping, tasting, buying Luca Sartori
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an Pellegrino Terme is in the heart of the Mountains that surround Bergamo. The reference address is Albergo Centrale, that offers several equipped rooms, the well-being centre and a restaurant not just for the hotel’s guests but for anyone aiming at spending a beautiful day. The Albergo Papa has a long tradition, there’s a meeting room and a dining- room where the typical local dishes are served; all the rooms have been restyled in the hotel Avogadro, where the specialties from the city are served in the big dining room among which the polenta taragna and the typical casoncelli (a type of pasta). Risotto, casoncelli, polenta and stewed meat are some of the specialties that are offered at the Restaurant Tirolese, that has been based in the centre of the thermal city since 1976; there’s a dining room arranged on two levels and a mezzanine. There’s a lot of polenta taragna in the menu of the Restaurant Cafè Liberty, an ideal location for
the feasts as well. The typical casoncelli ( a type of filled pasta), the polenta with the Branzi cheese and a lot of venison like the deer and the roe are the protagonist at the Restaurant Il Riposo, facing the International Thermal Baths building of Sanpellegrino, very well-known for the production of its water. If you want to bring home the tastes of San Pellegrino Terme there’s the brewery Via Priula where you can buy some good home-made beer like the Bohemian pils, the blanche, the dappelbock, the American lager and the fruit beer. The store of the dairy farm Giupponi is a mandatory stop since you can buy genuine products among which the cheese made of cow’s milk like the ricotta cheese, the crescenza cheese, the primo sale and the Agrì from San Pellegrino Terme or the seasoned cheese like the Branzi and the Bitto. Besides the cheese you can also buy the salami, the sauces and the jams produced by the farms spread in the valley.
San Pellegrino Terme
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MUNICIPALITY OF SAN PELLEGRINO TERME
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Bergamo
Bergamo, Lombardy Inhabitants: 4811 Altitude: 358 m s.l.m. Surface area: 22.95 km² Patron saint: Madonna di Caravaggio e San Pellegrino
09 - 11 FEBBRAIO FEBRUARY 2020 FIERAMILANOCITY | MICO
HAPPINESS IS A JOURNEY.
Simona PK Daviddi
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Luca Sartori
twitter.com/LucaSartoriIT
all-round well-being Simona PK Daviddi
Grosseto, Toscana
Manciano,
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t’s a tiny village set in the green Maremma, perched on a hill from the top of which your sight can stretch at 360° over a landscape that reaches the Argentario on the West side and the Giglio island, Giannutri, Montecristo and even Corsica on bright days then it disappears into the Tyrrhenian Sea while the Gran Sasso is stealing the show from the East side. If you stroll around the narrow streets of the village you’ll see several architectural styles starting with the massive castle with the panoramic tower on the top of the village then the towered walls dating back to the XVth century and the churches of San Leonardo and SS. Annunziata, both decorated with the important works by two painters
from Manciano Pietro Aldi and Paride Pascucci that date back to the XIXth century then the interesting prehistoric museum of Fiora Valley that exhibits the finds dating back to the Palaeolithic Age. The tiny villages that are spread in the surrounding area are really beautiful since they tell about the flourishing Medieval past: Poggio Capanne and its amazing Renaissance square, Poggio Murella and its Castellum Aquarum dating back to the second half of the I century B.C., Marsiliana and its castle dating back to the XIIIth century and San Martino featuring a beautiful church in a Renaissance style with Moorish details, they all deserve a stop to join a journey back in time.
Saturnia: not just the Thermal Baths
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t’s a district of Manciano and it is famous all around the world because of the therapeutic properties of its thermal water that have been well known since the ancient times. We are talking about Saturnia whose village still shows the memories of its past especially in Vittorio Veneto square, the core of the village with lots of tiny restaurants and bars. The Clodia road used to go through that area, it was one of the oldest Roman roads with Etruscan origins, you can still follow its track and see the finds thanks to two Latin inscriptions that have been kept. Saturnia is one of the most ancient inhabited centres of Italy,
it goes back to the Bronze Age, it was a flourishing community during the Etruscan Age, actually many funeral finds dating back to the VIIIth century B.C. have been collected in the surrounding necropolis and they are now kept in the Archaeological Museum belonging to Ciacci’s Foundation. The whole village is an outdoor museum, it keeps Latin, Etruscan and Renaissance finds that are spread around the entire area like the quadrangular reservoir that was the source of the thermal water before the knight Orlando diverted it to defeat the enemies in the battle according to the legend.
Foto francobollo di Fausto Cabri, Manciano
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he historical centre has got the shape of a heart and its urban area is still untouched, that’s why this district of Manciano is considered one of the most beautiful villages of Italy. It is perched on a hill and it is dominated by the tower bell of the parish church and the quadrangular tower of the castle. Montemerano sounds suspended in time and if you visit it you’ll be naturally invited to slow down and sip the Medieval atmospheres that each corner can give you. The group of churches of San Giorgio dating back to the XVth century has been entered into the route of Jubilee, it is sided by the door that takes its name and
it conveys deep feelings because of the beauty of its artworks mainly the Altarpiece by Sano di Pietro. The castle’s square is a wonderful place to stop and remind about the time when the knights on their beautiful horses used to go around with their ladies who lived inside those massive walls. Then there’s the church of Madonna del Cavalluzzo in the elegant Piazza del Forno which has a mysterious origin and the “hole”, a pass-way that crosses the second row of walls and lead you to the main street that probably dates back to the XVIth century when the village didn’t have to be protected from its enemies anymore.
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Between the thermal water and the nature
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f the Terme di Saturnia Spa and the Golf Resort are the perfect luxury solutions for your total remise en forme, it is also considered the best thermal centre in the world by the CNN thanks to the highly healing power of its water as well as to the exclusive leisure activities that are offered and also because of the beauty treatments that use the gold, the diamonds and the ice from Antarctica as their basic ingredients. In area of Manciano there’s another magic place: the Mill’s Waterfalls. They are considered by the best free thermal baths in the world by Lonely Planet and they have been
entered in the list of the places to be visited at least once in your life by The New York Times and The Guardian. The Mill’s Waterfalls are free natural pools featured by the continuous thermal sulphur water fall on the limestone. So while you’ll be taking your thermal baths you are surrounded by the unspoilt nature which is perfect for your slow travel and for your unforgettable cycle tours or your horse riding excursions or your hiking experiences in the forests, in the green fields, in the rural areas and along the charming tiny villages that are spread all around.
Food and wine: the perfect match
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f the well-being requires slow pace to sip the landscapes, the history and the architecture, food and wine can’t be put aside. Manciano can impress the most demanding travellers. You must taste the Ciaffagnone Mancianese at least once if you go there, it’s a sort of pancake made of water, eggs, filled with the pecorino cheese from Tuscany and it is cooked on a very thin frying pan which is greased with the lard. This area is spread with many farms where you can
taste the local products, mainly the dairy ones. On the top of the list there is the DOP pecorino cheese from Tuscany which has a low cholesterol level and it can be tasted with the local Morellino red wine from the nearby Scansano. For the finest and most curious tasters there are also two gourmet restaurants: at Caino’s which has been awarded with two Michelin stars and the Acquacotta restaurant (awarded with one star) inside the Terme di Saturnia Resort.
Sleeping, tasting, buying Luca Sartori
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anciano is the heart of Maremma. From the hill on which it is set you can see the Albegna Valley on one side and the lands of Sorana and Pitigliano on the other one in the area of Tufo. The cooking of this corner of Tuscany is simple and tasty and the restaurant at Paolino’s, in the historical centre of the village offers traditional dishes like the pappardelle (a type of tagliatelle) with the boar sauce or the pici ( a type of pasta) in the countryside way or the piglet in the oven. The stewed boar, hare or rabbit, good barbecues, steaks, fiorentine (big stakes) and sausages that can be eaten together with a good red local wine like the Morellino from Scansano is only a part of what you can taste at the restaurant Il Rifugio in the historical centre of Manciano. The wine bar and restaurant La Filanda is elegant and full of traditions and the most of food is home-made from the rosemary focaccia to the home-made pasta and the sweets too. You can also stop there to taste some of the best wine brands of the area.
If you choose Manciano for your holidays there’s the hotel Il Miravalle with a restaurant that focuses on the local tastes and a few rooms with a sea view then there’s also the bed & breakfast Relais nel Borgo (relais in the forest), located in a palace dating back to the XIXth century near the wine bars and the restaurant of the village and the bed & breakfast La Casa delle Camelie (the house of camellia) with the room of the cyclamen, of the roses, of the wisteria, the suite of the orchards and the apartment in the cave. The estate Montauto in the district called Campigliola is perfect for your purchases, you can buy different types of wine like the Ciliegiolo, the Vermentino and the black Pinot, the biological pasta and the extra virgin olive oil. At the farm Il Poggio di Teo, two kilometres from the centre of Manciano and eight from Saturnia you can buy the extra virgin olive oil, the pasta, the peeled spelt, the hard wheat flour, the soft wheat flour and the lavender essential oil.
Manciano
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MUNICIPALITY OF MANCIANO FIRENZE
Grosseto, Tuscany Inhabitants: 7289 Altitude: 444 m s.l.m. Surface area: 372.51 km² Patron saint: San Leonardo
Grosseto
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Since 1907 AssoBirra stands for beer excellence in Italy
Ancona, Marche
Genga, the Guinness nature
Luca Sartori
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Marco Raccichini
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he nature is on show in Genga. It is a village spread with tiny districts all gathered around the thick forests of the Esino valley within the Medieval castle’s walls. It was once the area of Hannibal of Genga who was the Pope from 1823 to 1829 with the name of Leo XII. Nowadays it belongs to the regional natural park Gola della Rossa and Frasassi and it is well-known because of the Frasassi caves that are famous in Italy and in the world. You can visit the caves in this tiny village in the heart
of Marche where you’ll experience the magic of nature and you’ll discover its historical wellness facilities where you can relax and enjoy the pleasure of the thermal baths and beauty treatments with the water and the mud. If you’re fond of the art and the culture Genga will teach you its history through its historical buildings, its churches and its museums. If you like good food and good wine you’ll be spoilt of choice since all the courses will be perfectly matched to the great local wine.
Passatelli and Verdicchio
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he tastes of the typical dishes that are served in Genga’s restaurants and farmhouses are strong. You can taste the passatelli and the soup of maccheroncini as first courses, the spelt soups, the potatoes gnocchi with the duck, the tagliatelle with the asparagus sauce or the mushrooms from the forests and the vincisgrassi, the traditional lasagne from the region. If you prefer the main courses you can chose the snails, different types of raw vegetables, the pork’s
guts, the stuffed pigeons and the lamb with the wild fennel. If you prefer the salami you can have lunch in one of the several farmhouses that are spread in this area where you’ll be delighted by the ham to be tasted with the dark bread that is produced from the local wheat. The best-known wines of this area are the Esino from the areas of Ancona and Macerata and the well-known Verdicchio both awarded with the Denomination of Controlled Origin label (DOC).
The Roman style in the Marche
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he Xth century castle, the ancient palace of the Earls of Genga and the church of San Clemente together with a few houses represent the historical centre of the village. At the bottom of the main street that crosses the historical centre there is the former Church of San Clemente which dates back to the Middle Ages where you can visit the Sacred Art Museum that keeps some furnishings and sacred objects that belonged to Leo XII, a marble statue belonging to Antonio Canova’s school that was wanted by the Pope Leo XII in 1828 that
was kept in the octagonal little temple of Valadier and a tryptic dating back to the XVth century by Antonio da Fabriano. You can’t miss a visit of the Roman abbey of San Vittore delle Chiuse near the Baths that were built by the Longobards towards the end of the Xth century in the middle of a Roman amphitheatre, one of the best examples of the Roman style of this region. In the ruins of the ancient Monastery there is the palaeontological and archaeological museum where a fossil of an ichthyosaurus and a few funeral urns are exhibited.
Karstic show
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he Frasassi caves represent one of the most extraordinary natural areas of Europe, they are a group of amazing underground caves. They are a great tourist attraction, they can be partially visited and there are different tracks at your disposal, the easiest ones and the most adventurous ones that are appreciated by the skilled speleologists. Your senses will lead you through this journey and you’ll have the opportunity to see a number of different environments like the Ancona Abyss, the huge cave that is more than 200 metres deep, 120 metres wide
and 180 metres long, the Room of the Two Hundreds, the Grand Canyon where you can cross a number of cracks over some caves that are fully submerged, the Room of the Bear and the Infinity Room. The crystallized pond is a very charming landscape, it was formed by the saturation of a water basin with the calcium carbonate, the Niagara waterfalls that is a fall of pure calcite, the castle of the fairy godmother that is featured by the spires and the Giants, a group of huge stalagmites that have a diameter of 5 metres and can be 20 metres tall.
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The Association of the Frasassi Caves
et up towards the end of 1972 following the agreement between the municipality of Genga and the province of Ancona, the “Frassassi Association” is the Body that has been in charge with the protection of Frasassi caves for decades. In fact the General Committee of the Association approved the project for the protection and the valorisation of the caves and after signing the related agreement the works have been contracted. Works started long ago, on the 21st January 1974 and the artificial tunnel to the Ancona Abyss whi-
ch is 223 metres long was completed just four months later. The internal paths of the Ancona Abyss were finished in the same year and this natural marvel was open to the public on September the 1st 1974. After more than forty years from the starting of the Association this group of caves is still one of the most amazing tourist destinations of Marche. Tens of thousands of tourists reach Genga to enjoy this amazing natural magic every year. It’s a wonderful place that is open all year through and that can be visited in many
different ways at all ages. There’s a route that has been specifically designed for the schools and there’s another one that has been designed for the families while the most skilled explorers can try a number of more challenging experiences that are called “caving adventures”. The first stop is at the Ancona Abyss, this area appeared in all its majesty to its discoverers who gave it the name of their city. It’s one of the widest caves in the world, it’s 180 metres long, 120 metres wide and 200 metres high and at its bottom there’s a heap of stones that have been deposited after the move-
ments and the collapse of the caves’ walls during the ages. The sight of the ’“paradise corner” and the “slice of bacon” come before the little crystallized lake that was formed after the saturation of a water basin full of calcium carbonate that was towered by a two metres stalagmite that created a white concretion with a particular shape that was called “the devil with the candle”. Near the crystallized lake there’s the “the fairy’s castle” so called because of its spires. “Niagara falls” is charming too, it is a white pure casting of calcite. The centre of the room is featured by a group of thou-
sand-year-old stalagmites called “the giants” with a diameter between 2 and 5 metres and a changeable height between one metre and a half and 20 metres that are considered the most important stalagmites of the cave. If you observe the dome of the Ancona Abyss from this place you will see the natural opening through which the first speleologists went through on September 29th 1971 to announce their extraordinary discovery. An evident lowering of the vault marks the end of the path of the Ancona Abyss and the entrance into the “Room of the two-thousands” so called after its length of around 200 metres. You can experience other emotions if you visit the “castle of witches” also called “the red castle”, the “Barbara Room” and the “Obelisk”, an amazing stalagmite that is supported by a huge fallen rock which is around 15 metres high. Nearby on one of the cave’s corners on a casting which looks like a palette there’s a wide range of colours: the white colour, the earthy colour, the pink colour with light shades of grey that feature the manganese oxide. The “Gran Canyon” is really exciting, it is called like that because there are some cracks at the bottom of which you can see big flooded hollows at the level of the Sentino river. The “organ pipes” are beautiful”, it’s a group of stalagmites that look like an organ and if they are gently touched they will produce a number of different sounds. Then there’s the “room of candles”, made of fragile stalagmites arranged around the tiny lake. The last two rooms are the “room of the bear” and “room of the infinite” an amazing end of a route full of unforgettable feelings.
Royal eagles and cave salamanders
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he natural park of Gola della Rossa and Frasassi is an amazing speleological area and a combination of different natural landscapes that combine the water, the mountains and the forests. The Scappuccia Valley is crossed by the river and it’s one of the best naturalistic destinations in this area since there are different types of natural environments that coexist. The area of the calcareous walls that is featured by different types of bushes is near the watercourses where you can find the willow trees, the poplars and the southern edge vegetation whi-
ch is featured by the presence of the thermophila. The area of Pontechiaradovo is the destination for the hikers and it is the starting and the arrival point of a number of naturalistic routes. This area of the Apennines is wild and dry and it’s a typical Carsic area where the royal eagles, the kestrels, the owls, the buzzards and the carrion crows find their best environment together with the hares, the rabbits, the foxes and the badgers. The cave salamanders, the vertebrate without lungs that lives in the humid environments is present in the Frasassi caves as well.
Sleeping, tasting, buying
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he history of Marche comes with the history of the Genga where you can breathe the tradition in its restaurants and farmhouses. The restaurant Francesco is the ideal destination for the visitors of the Frasassi caves, the restaurant can welcome big groups of people with a number of tailor-made menus by offering its typical products like the paccheri (a type of pasta) with the cacio cheese and the pepper, the pappardelle (a type of tagliatelle) with the roar sauce, the barbecue of veal and pork meat. At the restaurant La Scaletta the meat is the protagonist of the table: the veal shank with rucola and pine nuts, the roar with the sauce, the pork fillet with a sauce of leak and pieces of pears and the lamb served with the best local wine. The restaurant Da Maria, offers home-made food, you can taste the mixed grilled meat and the traditional arrosticini, the pork’s liver and the fillet with truffles. You can taste the old recipes from Marche but also some typical dishes and good pizza at the restaurant Da Bosio, for instance the tagliatelle with the roar sauce, the
tagliolini with truffles and sausage, the tagliolini with truffles and porcini mushrooms, the scaloppina steak with mushrooms and a lot of fish too, fried fish or spiedini, everything must be sided by the local wines among which the Verdicchio from the Jesi Castles. If you choose Genga for your holidays there’s the hotel Le Grotte, featured by the deep colours of the Red Canyon and the Frasassi caves where you can choose a suite, the spa, the pool and the very good restaurant with a well-supplied cellar. The B&B La Colombaia, is a great place to relax, there’s the room Avana, the blue room and the Multicolor one and the hotel Magrini is nice too because of its simply furnished rooms and all the needed comforts. You can’t miss a stop at the Cured Meat Factory of Genga where you can buy the typical products from this area among which the salami from Fabriano and the one from Genga, the pressed liver, the low fat loin, the soft cheese from Genga, the loin with the lard, the seasoned pancetta, the bacon and the appetizers from Marche.
Genga
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MUNICIPALITY OF GENGA
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Ancona, Marche Inhabitants: 1758 Altitude: 320 m s.l.m. Surface area: 73.16 km² Patron saint: San Clemente
Terni, Umbria
San Pietro Aquaeortus
Antonella Andretta
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t is sometimes difficult to describe a place since you are afraid of not being able to use the right words to describe the charm and the magic it radiates as well as the history it keep: Borgo San Pietro is one of these places. It is much more than a hotel or a resort, it is an entire tiny village that has been turned into a tourist attraction where every single stone, wall, indoor and outdoor space tells
about the past and shows a present featured by a great care for details and an extraordinary welcoming spirit that goes beyond the common sense in order to offer a top quality hospitality. But first things first: Umbria is the region, between Fabro and Allerona, in the province of Terni, on the hills of the park of the Forest of Meana: in other words in the greenest region of Italy.
Miracles from Umbria
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he environment sounds magic to our eyes and the monks who built a church and a monastery here in the XIth century might have had the same feeling. Even its name sounds prodigious: the story goes that Saint Peter gave the water to this distant place from which it took the name of “aquae ortus” that means water source. The stories related to the Abbey that started to be filled with people and buildings go back to many centuries ago, little by little this area was turned into a tiny village and at the beginning of the XXth century a school, a cemetery and other facilities were built and at the end of the 1970s the inhabitants started to move to other places. It was the end of the miracle? Not
exactly since around fifteen years ago a man arrived there and fell in love with the place that was a pile of scraps and he decided to bring it back to life. It took time, a vision for the future and a lot of patience (and a high investment too) but Stefano Magini a former accountant made his dreams come true and started the restoration works of the entire village and became the CEO of the project. Nowadays the outcome is front of everyone’s eyes since when you arrive there you will see a wonderful path sided by two rows of high cypresses and you won’t be willing to go back to your previous life after leaving your stress, the traffic, the crowd and the mobile phone behind you.
Salus per aquam (the health through the water): an ancient philosophy
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here’s a paved square in the centre of the village, it is surrounded by a number of buildings like the old school, the old mill, the oil mill and so on. They have been all turned into 25 flats that are perfectly equipped and furnished with every modern comfort. The tiny square is an intimate space, it is an ideal place to organize exhibitions, concerts or cocktails and also to socialize and feel good which is the real aim of San Pietro AquaeOrtus which was born from the water that is the source of life, of health and well-being. Your wellbeing will be augmented in the wonderful out-
door pool that is featured by some stone outlets for a natural hydro-massage. There is also a spa with a small pool with sea water, spaces for the beauty treatments and an equipped gym. And the tracks along the green areas can’t be missed, they have been designed by a landscape architect and they are sided by many plants, flowers, the healing herbs that were once used by the monks that have been saved from the past and symbolize the rebirth of a community and the continuation of a past that is nowadays dedicated to your health and your well-being.
Weddings, top restaurants and new things in preparation
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mong the dearest memories of the first opening year (the season of 2019 is going to be the first at full capacity), Magini keeps the one of a couple that organized their wedding party in San Pietro: the proved happiness, the magic of this place and the perfection of the banqueting organized by Paolo Trippini, a famous chef from Umbria, made the couple to decide they would come back every year from Munich to celebrate their anniversary! The catering industry is strong here: with the support and the advice of Trippini, the precious local raw materials are enhanced, they are offered in an elegant way in their mise en place. The restaurant which also has a conference room has been created inside a Medieval Church whose wide spaces are suitable for welcoming the laic ritual of
the food. A farm is going to be started in the near future, it will supply the kitchen with the needed products following what the Monks used to do in the past. The monks knew that the body and the soul must be fed with wholesome healthy good products. What else can we say about San Pietro? You can discover an area rich of natural and historical resources: Orvieto and its cathedral are near there, the wonders of the Orcia Valley and the Maremma in Tuscany, the lake Bolsena, Viterbo and the Tuscia area as well: it is the gathering of the most charming places of Italy, of the ancient villages and the art cities (including Assisi and Perugia) where the nature and the beauty are the counterpart of the millennial spirituality. It is exactly what happens in the village of San Pietro.
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ForlĂŹ-Cesena, Emilia-Romagna
Bertinoro: hospitality, thermal baths, wine and‌..the secret of Spungone
Antonella Andretta
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Luca Sartori
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aybe not everyone knows that there’s another Romagna, nut just the one of the beaches: it’s the hinterland, the hills and the vineyards. Bertinoro is there, it’s a village of ten thousand inhabitants laid on a hill whose Medieval layout and the well-being are still untouched: it’s a tradition that goes back to millions of years ago. The rocky ridgeline of its hills go back to that ancient time:
it was a lush coral reef. This particular rocky conformation called Spungone because of its sponginess is rich in minerals so the wines that are produced in this area are featured by particular organoleptic properties as well as the water that runs underground. It is not by chance that you feel good in Bertinoro where the beauty and the well-being are absolute values.
Let’s cycle!
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ow can you reach Bertinoro? How can you move around ? If you travel by train when you reach Cesena or Forlì you can start your cycling adventure along the several tracks that are spread all around in the countryside and in the village. One of the most interesting route starts in Bertinoro and connects all the fortresses of the area of Spungone up to Castrocaro going through Meldola and Predappio. If you travel by car there are many parking spaces near the centre of the village: after parking your car you can walk to Piazza della Liber-
tà where you can see the old clock-tower and the decorated front wall of the Ordelaffi palace where the council’s offices dating back to XIVth century are based: inside the building there is the room of people and the room of paintings that contains a series of paintings dedicated to the local history dating back to the XVIIIth century. The important cathedral dating back to the XVIth century is near this building, it is dedicated to Santa Caterina from Alessandria (some precious works are kept inside the three naves).
Where the guests are disputed
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esides the amazing view you can enjoy from this panoramic terrace known as the Terrace of Romagna, your attention will certainly focus on The Pillar of Hospitability which symbolizes the very ancient tradition of hospitability of the village. The judge Guido del Duca ordered the construction of a pillar with 12 rings around the year 1200 in order to decide who would welcome the foreign guests: when a traveller arrived in the city and tied his horse to one of the rings he was hosted by the family who owned that ring. The pillar you can see is not the original one, it’s a copy built
in 1926: this doesn’t diminish the deep meaning of this original monument that represents the hospitability of this place which is celebrated every year with a dedicated event. You can’t miss a stop at the wine bar Ca’ de Bè, below Piazza della Libertà ( a staircase connects the two places) where you can taste the best wines from the region namely the Sangiovese, the Albana (the first white wine in Italy to be awarded with the denomination of controlled geographical origin or DOCG in 1987), the Cagnina and the Pagadebit , just a few types of wine among 400 labels.
Good food and ancient parish churches
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a de Bè, although it is the most famous and historical wine bar of the area is not the only one: the village is spread with restaurants, wine-bars, small shops that offer the typical products of this geographical area like the piadine and the crescioni (type of pancakes), the garganelli (a type of pasta), the cheese with the typical saba (a topping made of the grape must) and the ciambelloni (sort of big bagels) that won’t put you down. After a good lunch we suggest you to take your time (the hurry is forbidden here and the tourism is slow) since there’s nothing
better than going for a walk to visit the Fortress that was built before the year 1000 that is a University now and the Interreligious Museum dedicated to the three biggest monotheistic religions. From the centre you can walk to the Mount Maggio, the twin hill of Bertinoro, once a friary that still keeps an ancient pit with a spiral staircase that leads to the friars’ cells along the walls. The Langobard parish church of San Donato di Polenta is ten minutes far by car, it was mentioned by Carducci in his poems and Dante stopped there to pray during his exile.
Thermal water and adventure parks
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urprised aren’t over since there’s much more in Bertinoro, there are the thermal baths that offer seven different types of water. They were built in the Thirties then they were completely restyled in 2007 and you can stay in the four-stars Grand Hotel Terme della Fratta to enjoy the thermal treatments or you can also use the thermal baths without staying in the hotel. The Indiana Park is inside the Thermal Baths’ park, it is a nice adventure
park for kids and adults that offers some air routes between the trees with the ropes and the nets, footbridges, bridges, outdoor pools, climbing walls and a tower from which you can experience the excitement of a jump from 13 metres of height in the highest safety. In Summer many events are organised and on the first Sunday of September the Ritual of Hospitality is held, it aims at celebrating the traditional hospitality of the village.
Sleeping, tasting, buying Luca Sartori
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he rich table of Romagna has the cooking of Bertinoro among its main protagonists. Between Forlì and Cesena in the vineyards or on the hills it’s not easy to choose a place to stop to have a good lunch or taste some local products. The osteria enoteca La Cà de Bè is perfect for both situations, it is located in Piazza della Libertà and it is called “the balcony of Romagna” because of the amazing views on the hills up to the sea you can enjoy from there; the traditional dishes are sided by 400 different types of local wine. For the meat lovers there’s the restaurant La Divina Bistecca which is located in the building that was a nunnery in the past. The bruschette, the main courses and a lot of different types of salami together with the classic piadina are the protagonist of the menu of the farm Fattoria La Quercia. If you fancy staying in Bertinoro to experience a peaceful holiday on the hills and experience the magic of the village you can chose the very central hotel La Colonna and its rooms with a view on the Adria-
tic Sea and you can also choose the farmhouse Al Colle, surrounded by a green garden that frame the rooms. The B&B La Residenza nel Borgo is located in the Medieval heart of Bertinoro, it is suitable for the ones who want to breathe the story and the art, it is decorated with fine textiles and it features smart spaces like the big living room with the fireplace where you can read and sip a good glass of wine. If you want to bring home the tastes of Romagna you can stop at the farm Zaccarini Vini where you can buy some of the best types of wine among which the DOP Sangiovese and the Trebbiano. The Sangiovese and the sweet Albana from Bertinoro are the types of wine that are produced et the farmhouse 7 Colonne where you can also buy the grappa liquor and the oil. You can’t miss a visit to the dairy farm Mambelli in Santa Maria Nuova di Bertinoro where you can buy the typical squacquerone cheese to be spread on the piadina as well as the caciotta cheese, the ricotta cheese and the primosale.
Bertinoro
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COMUNE DI BERTINORO
Forlì
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Forlì-Cesena, Emilia-Romagna Inhabitants: 10947 Altitude: 254 m s.l.m. Surface area: 57.25 km² Patron saint: Santa Caterina
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Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige
Caderzone, thousand shades of‌ green Simona PK Daviddi
Simona PK Daviddi
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Luca Sartori
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he green of alpine woods, the bright green of endless fields, the light green of pastures as far as the eye can see and the bright colours of golf greens: this tiny village of Caderzone Terme in the province of Trento is a jewel in the emerald green of the Randena Valley that is featured by the blue sky for the most part of the year, the flashed white of glaciers of Adamello-Presanella, the deep blue colour of the river Sarca that quietly runs
near the village and the deep red of the sharpen edges of Dolomiti of Brenta in the sunset. It’s a palette of colours and feelings that has been charming the kings and the Queens, the bishops and noble families that have made this area one of the best loved by the Middle-European Êlite for the last centuries between Italy and Austria and a short period being spent under the influence of the Kingdom of Baviera controlled by Napoleon.
The village: between aristocracy and peasants
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f you walk around the narrow streets in the historical centre of Caderzone Terme, you can go back in time up to 1506, the date of a paper that mentions the shepherds’ huts of the village, the constructions that the shepherds’ and the herdsmen used to pasture their breeds and dominate the village from amazing landscapes nowadays. The “tour” continues with the visit of the Lodron Bertelli Palace that was wanted by the Earls Bertelli, the aristocratic family of this area that tells about dramatic episodes related to the great plague of 1630 that turned the building into a leper
hospital protected by a high fencing , the cemetery where the dead bodies were buried is still visible while the old stables have been turned into the Museum of the Shepherds’ Huts. The church of San Biagio is not far from there, it features a granite front door, it was rebuilt in the mid XIXth century and it was enriched with the original tower-bell dating back to the XIIIth century and it still keeps some fine wooden sculptures and a remarkable Way of the Cross (via cruces) made of wood that represents the 14 stops of the passion of Jesus in an unusual way.
The surroundings: between nature and legends
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fter leaving the village the nature of Rendena Valley shows views of rare beauty like the alpine lakes of San Giuliano and Garzonè, at around 1.950 metres of altitude and it is rich of fish. Both places are linked to the legend of a hermit whose ruins show the presence of an ancient hermitage. There’s also a gush of water that according to a popular belief is lethal for all the reptiles, especially the poisonous ones according to the tradition of Saint Julian the protector of snakes. The tiny chur-
ch by the lake that has the same name is dedicated to this Saint; it’s an old church, it was restored in 1488 and rebuilt in 1868 and it keeps a number of precious gifts given by the Bishop of Trento: a silver cup, a Mass book and a very precious vestment embroidered with gold that the priests still wear on Christmas Eve. A number of sheep tracks enable to explore an amazing land and enjoy the view of the Dolomites with Adamello and Brenta as the main characters.
Taking your name and praising the quality
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aderzone Terme is the ideal destination for the lovers of the slow pace and the high quality, the genuine products that you can find on your table and the well-being too are added values like the SPA where the water full of minerals that comes from the source of Saint Anthony has always bee used since the XVIIth century because of its therapeutic properties that heal the bones and joints problems,
the breathing ones and it is also used for the wellness in the different SPA facilities that are spread in this area. But the “village of health” as Caderzone is nicknamed is also the landmark of traditional tastes and food since you can taste the “patugol”, a dish made of potatoes cooked with chopped vegetables and the Spressa cheese or the “salam da l’ai”, the salame with garlic.
At full sport
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ore and more often nature matches sports and activities in the open air and the Randena Valley isn’t an exception. Actually there are plenty of activities that are offered to sports lovers and they are sometimes unexpected as well. One of the most interesting places is the Val Rendena Golf Club, an amazing green with nine holes and 35 pars. Bikes lovers are spoiled of choice since they can run on the cycle route along the Sarca river’s banks and the pine forest or they can cycle along one of the tracks that cross the area. Trekking and hiking are
not less interesting, there are different types of routes and tracks: you can walk and hike towards the shepherds’ huts and reach the cabin of San Giuliano, you can choose the “Healthy Tour” or a panoramic ring that requires two walking days and a night to be spent in the cabin. Finally, the white sports can find their best stage on the Dolomites starting from the near facilities of Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio to continue with the ski tracks near the Lamola shepherds’ huts and the Dossone Peak both above 2000 metres of altitude.
Sleeping, tasting, buying Luca Sartori
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aderzone Terme is the green heart of the Randena Valley and its password is “well-being”. Among the hotels you can find there there’s the hotel Rio, a family-run hotel which is set along the cycle pedestrian route. It’s a very quiet area, it has a nice private park only 200 metres far from the Thermal Baths facilities of “Borgo Salute”. The Hotel Regina Elena is one the best locations in Caderzone, it has been aknowledged as a highly sustainable construction, it has been praised for the protection of the environment and the link with the geographic area. It has 28 rooms and fine atmosphere. The hotel Palazzo Lodron Bertelli, has the charm of an old noble house, it has been recently restyled with the support of Belle Arti and it offers 11 rooms, including the suite and the junior suite. At the Rustik restaurant, you can taste the typical food from this area, for instance the typical canederli with the savoy cabbage, chicory and krauts and a lot of che-
ese, salami, meat and vegetables. Delicious appetizers are the protagonists at the farmhouse Maso Pan, it is an ideal destination for the special events like the birthdays, you can taste the typical first dishes, the strangolapreti (a type of pasta), the canederli and the gnocchi made of ricotta cheese and the very good butter or the cheese cream. It’s time to go shopping now, there are many delicacies you can bring home among which the cheese from the dairy farm Maso Pan. The cheese made in the farm, the cheese made of the biological milk, the sweet and soft Fontalpan, the ricotta cheese from the farm and the caciotta cheese are the man types of cheese you can buy there. Then there’s also the Granpan, the primo sale cheese, the butter and the cheese of the alpine hut. The traditional bread or the focaccia are also on sale at the bakery Pistoria Val Rendena: fresh or packaged, they are a souvenir of this part of Trentino.
Caderzone Terme
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MUNICIPALITY OF CADERZONE TERME
BOLZANO
Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige Inhabitants: 674 Altitude: 723 m s.l.m. Surface area: 18.61 km² Patron saint: San Giuliano e San Biagio
Trento
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Simona PK Daviddi
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Luca Sartori
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harmony and well-being Simona PK Daviddi
ForlĂŹ-Cesena, Emilia-Romagna
Castrocaro Terme,
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n the hinterland of ForlĂŹ Castrocaro Terme keeps all the features of the well-being of Emilia-Romagna come together in its tiny village overlooked by a medieval castle: characteristic views, a wide range of food and wine products, thermal water for your relaxing moments and a handful of legends to be discovered along its narrow streets. If you leave Forli and drive along the state road that crosses the green hills, the vineyards and the last edges of the Apennines the castle will welcome you in Castrocaro Terme. Perched
on a cliff of sea origin, many fossils were found in that area, the castle and its towers have an age-old story to be told: it was already a part of the feud belonging to the Earls of Castrocaro in 1118 and many famous people have been living there afterwards. One of the most famous was certainly Freferick Barbarossa and a number of battles, excommunications and changes of ownership happened there. The role of Castrocaro as the main town under the Republic of Florence since the XVth century is interesting.
Between history, wine and legends
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he castle deserves to be visited since it’s an interesting historical-archaeological museum nowadays and it also hosts the wine from the wine-road of Forlì-Cesena where you can taste some of Bacchus’ favourite wines like the Sangiovese, the Albano, the Trebbiano, the Pagadebit and the Cagnina. While you are sipping a good glass of wine in the medieval rooms you might even have the chance to hear e weak wail on a moonless night: it’s the love cry
of Margherita, the young daughter of the earl of Castrocaro who jumped out of the tower in 1253 and killed herself to avoid the marriage with her cousin Guidone because she didn’t love him. From a young woman who killed herself to a bloody ruthless one: the legend goes that Caterina Sforza, the illegitimate daughter of Gian Galeazzo and the Countess of Forlì used to murder her lovers by throwing them into a very deep pit, still visible at the top of the castle.
The village: a chest of treasures
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fter leaving the castle you can go for a quiet walk along the narrow streets surrounded by the walls to discover a number of treasures: there are huge medieval constructions, towers, noble palaces, Palazzo Corbizi is remarkable featuring its renaissance decorations and Palazzo Grazioli too featuring a front door made of stones in the Tuscan style and a number of public buildings that remind a glorious past like the Palazzo Pretorio or the Captains of Justice Palace, the former Court on which the ancient coat of arms of the Medici family still stands out. The church of San Nicolò, enriched with a precious
number of frescoes from the school of Marche that might be related to the workshop of Gentile da Fabriano deserves to be visited and the group of Bargello as well whose cellars were used as “public jails” during the dark centuries. Besides the historical treasures there are also a number of really nice tiny restaurants where you can taste the wide range of products of the region from “cappelletti”( a type of filled pasta) to piadina, from handmade tagliatelle to the best meat and the king of the region, the white local truffle that can turn each dish into a unique experience.
The Baths: the praise of Art Decò
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ogether with Bacchus and Ceres the wellness can’t be missed. The sulphurous thermal water is used for the baths, the mud, the massages and plenty of beauty and medical treatments for a perfect rehabilitation. The Thermal Baths is the temple of well-being, they were built between the 1930s and the 1940s in the Art Decò style together with the elegant Grand Hotel with its wonderful Party Pavillon: its semi-circular front side is made of multicoloured marble, travertine,
iridescent bricks, it is sided by two huge staircases rich of mosaics, marble and fine pottery, the Party Pavillon is enriched with two fountains that contain pieces of gold and green marble and an amazing floor of majolica tiles that reproduce the sea bottom full of real and imaginary fish. Some dolphins, some cornucopias, some star signs, some metaphysical symbols, vases of flowers, waterfalls, amphorae are located inside the hotel to offer an amazing unique complete artistic view.
The land of the sun: the Renaissance charm
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he village of Terra del Sole (the land of the un) is near Castrocaro, its name reminds the warm light that heats the surrounding hills for the most of the year whose origins date back to the Renaissance when the “symbolic space” was designed to represent the power of the noble families. Surrounded by tall walls up to 12 metres and protected on the four corners by big towers, Eliopoli (it’s the second name of this village) is an “ideal town”, it’s fortified and its foundations date back to the 8th December 1564 when the
construction started according to the urban laws of that time that had been inherited from the military engineers. It was wanted by Cosimo I De’ Medici to protect the border with the Papal State, The Land of the Sun developed around the huge parade ground on which the church of Santa Reparata faces the Court in order to symbolize the two main powers together with the castle of the Captain of Artillery and the Castle of the Governor. All around the sight gets lost in the lands and the vineyards of Sangiovese.
Sleeping, tasting, eating Luca Sartori
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few kilometres from the city of Forlì, in Castrocaro you will find rich and generous tables. The typical Cappelletti (a type of pasta), the tagliatelle with the meat sauce, the spelt soup and the roasted rabbit are among the main specialties of the restaurant Il Farro, where you can also taste the salami and the typical wine from Romagna. The crescioncini ( a little piadina) filled with the pumpkin and the potatoes, the piadina with the squacquerone cheese and the rucola, the stuffed tigelle (sort of pancakes), the green cappellacci (a type of pasta) with the flavoured butter. The strozzapreti (a type of pasta) with the red wine, the roasted pork shank and the fillet of beef with the balsamic vinegar are the specialties of the restaurant La Cantinaza. You can also taste good pasta at the restaurant Gabriele like the capelletti in the soup, the strozzapreti ( a type of pasta) with the meat sauce, the lasagna, the passatelli and the cappellacci with the typical meat sauce or with the mushrooms sauce and the sausages and you can taste the best local wine too. If you go to Castrocaro on holidays there is the Park
Hotel, only 400 metres far from the Thermal Bath Centre, surrounded by green areas and simple rooms that look out on the fields. The family hotel Prati is perfect for the families, it offers the typical food from the area. There is also the hotel Rosa del Deserto, located in the centre of Castrocaro facing the historical Thermal Baths, it has a big panoramic solarium terrace. You can choose the sweets shop Gran Caffè 900 for your tasty shopping where you can buy good biscuits, the bigné, the cakes, sweet and salted appetizers and where you can also stop for a happy hour break. If you like the wine there is the estate of Villa Bagnolo, where you can buy the typical wine from Romagna like the DOP (protected designation of origin) Sangiovese, the IGT Red wine from Forlì, the IGT (typical geographical indication) Cabernet , the dry DOCG (denomination of controlled and guaranteed origin) wine Albana, the brut sparkling wine and the very good grappa produced in the estate: the Bagnolo grappa that is made from the red grapes or the one made of the white grapes.
Castrocaro Terme
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MUNICIPALITY OF CASTROCARO TERME
Forlì
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Forlì-Cesena, Emilia-Romagna Inhabitants: 6321 Altitude: 68 m s.l.m. Surface area: 38.95 km² Patron saint: San Nicola
Frosinone, Lazio
Fiuggi,
the “water� and Michelangelo Cinzia Meoni
Cinzia Meoni
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Luca Sartori
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ou can reach Fiuggi by car, it takes a bit more than one hour from Rome. Then the problem is restarting your daily routine when you live such a welcoming village rich of history, traditions and its miraculous water. People have been going “through the water” since the Renaissance, surrounded by the treasures of art and the chestnut forests that cover the slopes of the Ernici Mountains where Fiuggi is set. You can drink the liquid treasure of the
village, you can loaf around in the nature, you can go for long walks in the green or you can sit down at a table to taste the delicious dishes from this area. You won’t be astonished when you know that such an invigorating place used to have Boniface VIII, the Pope of “Mistero Buffo” by Dario Fo and Michelangelo Buonarrori among its fans and that it flourished during the period of the Art Nouveau in the XXth century.
A two-faced... village
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he village was known with the name of Anticoli up to a century ago, this name means before the hills because of its position on the slopes of the Ernici Mountains and it has two faces to be discovered. Down on the valley there is Fiuggi Fonte with the two sources from which you can drink the healing water whose name was chosen at the beginning of the XXth century as a place-name of the village: the source of Boniface VIII and the Anticolana source. Then there’s the village of Fiuggi that stands out on the hill surrounded by a net of narrow streets like Vicolo Baciadonne which is so narrow that you have to
hug if you want to cross it then there are a number of little squares, steep staircases, churches mainly the Collegiata di San Pietro (a group of churches) dating back to the XVIIth century and other historical buildings too. While you’re strolling around the narrow streets a stop at Palazzo De Medici where you can see the Virgins’ pit can’t be missed. According to a popular legend, the girls who refused to be subdued to the right of the first night (ius primae noctis) wanted by Pietro Margani, the bloody landowner and the captain of the crossbowmen of Pope Leo X were thrown into it.
Fiuggi 365 days a year
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ou can play golf, tennis, swim in the sports centre or you can go horse-riding. In Winter the nearby facilities of Campocatino at 1.800 metres of altitude with ten ski-tracks and a country-cross skiing one as well as the district of Campo Staffi are near if you go by car. You can also go on an excursion in the surrounding area, you can go to the little lake of Canterno which is particularly charming at the sunset or you can visit the stronghold of Rocca di Fumone where Celestine V, the Pope who made the great refusal (colui che fece per viltade il gran rifiuto) was imprisoned and killed. You can also head
towards the Regional Natural Park of the Simbruini Mountains where the stone valley is set, it separates Lazio from Abruzzo. For the sports lovers there is the cycle route that reaches Paliano along the old railway Roma-Fiuggi: sixty kilometres up and down, it is a challenge you can’t miss. You will cycle around the ghost villages near the white rocky walls where the prickly pears and the rosehips spontaneously grow and you’ll get through oaks, chestnuts and holms forests while the landscape is standing out on the valley on the Lepini mountains chain and the Albani Hills.
Legends, saints and events
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iuggi is a thermal destination all over the year. But it is sometimes even more than that. For example when the Festa delle Stuzze is hold. The stuzze are wooden trunks that are used to set fire to the warehouses, the wooden constructions of different shapes and dimension built all around the village. The local festival is dedicated to San Biagio and it has been hold on the Candelora day, the 2nd of February since 1298 when the village’s inhabitants prevented a siege of the tro-
ops of the Cajetani family, the historical enemies of the Colonna family who were ruling the city thanks to the intercession of the saint. According to the legend San Biagio, the patron saint of the village made a huge bonfire that chased off the army of the invading soldiers. The soldiers saw the village surrounded by the fire and left it untouched. This historical event is repeated every first Sunday of August and it’s a great festival for the whole village.
The well-being on your table
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he well-being of the village is strictly related to its refreshing water but also to the typical products like the goat ricotta cheese, the caciotta cheese, the gnocchetti ( a type of pasta), the lamb’s meat and the local wine: the Cesanese del Piglio Docg (denomination of controlled and guaranteed origin) the favourite nectar of Frederick II and the Popes of Anagni, the Passerina from the area of Frosinone, an Igt (protected geographical indica-
tion) wine, a dry white wine with a fruity taste and the Cabernet of Atina, a special production that deserves to be tasted for a toast in Fiuggi. The area of Frosinone has also dedicated a delicious main course to Pope Boniface VIII, actually it is a sort of casserolle of maccheroni, fried meatballs and ham. To end it right the desserts tray offers you a display of doughnuts made with wine and the cake made with the jam of the visciole cherries.
Sleeping, tasting, buying Luca Sartori
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n the heart of Ciociaria Fiuggi is one of the most exclusive places in the centre of Italy since it can match the beauty of the landscape to the wellbeing and the very good cooking. Among the best-known hotels there is the Ambasciatori Place hotel, a perfect combination of a number of different factors, mainly the elegance, the serviceability and the easiness. The Silva Hotel Splendid, offers different types of rooms from the economy classic ones to the superior rooms and the suite superior ones. The Hotel Benessere San Giorgio is located in a central position and it’s surrounded by a wonderful garden, it offers standard, comfort and superior rooms. All the mentioned hotels offer a number of different well-being services in their spa facilities where water is the great protagonist. Regarding the food, the meat, the salami and the home-made pasta are the main products from this area. The pork wraps with the pecorino cheese and the ham and the fettuccine (a type of tagliatelle) with the meat sauce are among the best specialties you can find at the restaurant La Locanda, which is lo-
cated in the cellars of the old hotel Verghetti in the historical centre of Fiuggi. Cannelloni stuffed with ricotta cheese and the aubergines, the trofiette (a type of pasta) with the porcini mushrooms and the paccheri (a type of pasta) in the amatriciana way are some of the courses that are served at the restaurant La Taverna del Castello. The restaurant Il Buongustaio is featured by a traditional type of cooking too, you can taste the very good fregnacce (a type of pasta) in the carbonara way. If you want to buy the local products you can go to the farmhouse San Lorenzo, where you can buy the honey, the pears, the peaches, the chestnuts, the pomegranate jams and also the onions and the chilli marmalade, the liquors and the grappa. The sweetshop Fantini, is perfect t delight your palate, you can taste their appetizers, the pizza, the salted cakes as well as good sweets and croissants. You can cheer your taste up also at the Gran Caffè Michelangelo, an elegant cafÊ where you can taste and buy delicious fruitcakes, croissants and many other delicacies.
Fiuggi
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MUNICIPALITY OF FIUGGI
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Frosinone, Lazio Inhabitants: 10511 Altitude: 747 m s.l.m. Surface area: 32.98 km² Patron saint: San Biagio
Giulio Tellarini
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Riviera of the Cyclops, mythical and slow
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he Sicilian coastline from Aci Castello to Acireale that looks like a drawing of lava and it’s shaped by the waves of the Mediterranean Sea goes back to the ancient Greek myths and has inspired such personalities like the writer Giovanni Verga and the movie director Luchino Visconti. The Riviera of the Cyclops takes its name from its facing islands, a little archipelago in a protected sea area featured by cliffs and the desert island of Lachea and it is said that they were the rocks that Polyphemus threw as Ulisse sailed
away after cheating and making him blind. The ideal destination of this Riviera is the sea village of Aci Trezza, in the county of Aci Castello. The repetition of the prefix Aci in the place-names of this area comes from a shepherd called Aci who might have lived in this area, he was a beautiful young men who fell in love with the nymph Galatea and he was killed by Polyphemus for this reason. The shepherd’s blood, thanks to the intercession of the nymphs was turned into a river that took his name that is called Lavinaio nowadays.
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The village of literature and movies Aci Trezza has an old fishing tradition and it is the setting of the most famous novel by Giovanni Verga, “I Malavoglia” (1881). His work gave inspiration to the movie “La terra trema” (1948) directed by Luchino Visconti. Surrounded by Mount Fano and Mount Fanello, this village deserves a visit because of a number of interesting places like the church of Saint John the Baptist that features a Baroque front side, the Farm of the land estate with its old oil mill, the barn, the lemon garden and
Casa Merra, a building that was once used as an inn that is near the old harbour. The Cliffs’ Tower is the only ruin of the old defence system whose foundations had been build on the Roman or Bizantine ruins and it still reminds the pirates’ raids. Nespolo’s house must absolutely be visited, it is said “I Malavoglia” by Verga used to live there. The tiny house that dates back to the XIXth century is now a museum dedicated to the movies by Visconti and the fishing traditions of the village.
The Timpa, the scents and the mills If you get along the coastline you’ll find Capo Mulini, it’s a break in the unspoilt nature, in the colours and the perfumes of the Mediterranean vegetation. Capo Mulini takes its name from the old mills that were once used in the tanneries. It’s a charming natural harbour and it’s featured by the church of Santa Maria dating back to the XVIth century and the tower of Sant’Anna that was used as an outpost to see the Pirates’ ships in the distance. There’s a lighthouse there today.
The area of Gazzena in the natural reserve of the Timpa is not far away. You can go through a route, you don’t need to be particularly fit, of around 1700 metres along a typical country track. Along this route you’ll see the pits, the farms and Villa Calanna, a big Patrician house that still represents an amazing example of rural architecture. You ca also see the Mediterranean vegetations of the plains, the blue sea and breath the scents of wild bushes and the sumac.
Santa Maria la Scala, the sea and the sun At the bottom of the Timpa reserve there’s the fishing village of Santa Maria la Scala, you can walk there from Acireale trough a staircase, called the staircase of Chiazzette that goes ahead towards the coastline and follows eight turns made of lava stones interposed with a few panoramic little squares. The staircase which goes back to the XVIIth century is surrounded by the Mediterranean vegetation: there are caper bushes, the prickly pears and a huge sycamore around 150 years old. On your way down you’ll see the Tocco fortress dating back to the XVIIth century. From the last light of stairs you can chose two different tracks: the one on your right will lead you to the Miuccio beach while if you go straight on you’ll reach the beautiful square of Santa Maria la Scala. You will see the fishers who fix their fishing nets in the sun or you can see old weavers at work.
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Luciana Francesca Rebonato facebook.com/lfrancesca.rebonato
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Istrian villages: beautiful with a soul
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stria: It plunges into the sea with its magic villages along the coastline and it is also stuck to the mainland with its Dinariche Alps. A line of medieval villages and hills is cast between the peaks and the sea surrounded by a vegetation of laurel and myrtle that are displayed as a palette of colours to be framed through your sight. Colours and shades of colours, lights displayed like a painting: the red soil is featured by the rows of vineyards and by the silver olive groves, there are deep blue gulfs and deep green
peninsulas and the karstic white rocks that plunge into the sea. It’s a diverse landscape that offers slow routes at the discovery of the past through the many Byzantine, Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian memories. It’s a journey at full well-being paced by the historical and the natural heritage that Istria offers, so charming with its contrasts and so diverse with its variety of suggestions: an endless wishing well to discover the villages by following the historical routes along the multi-shaped natural landscapes.
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Crossborder: Croatia
Seafarers
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ou can first reach Umag (Umago) from Italy, its historical centre is a labyrinth of narrow streets that look out on the amazing Venetian views and the Baroque and Renaissance buildings. In the square before the sea there’s the Baroque church of S. Maria where you can see the Gothic Altarpiece dating back to the XVth century and an organ dating back to 1776 in the church of S. Pellegrino. It’s the protagonist of an important music festival that comes together with another important event that is held in Umag, the Croatia Open, the famous International tennis tournament. You can also see Novigrad (Cittanova) along the
coastline near the mouth of the river Mirna, it’s featured by a row of untouched Gothic Venetian buildings and there are also two towers near the castled walls. The Collegiate Church of S. Pelagio is precious too since it keeps the crypt dating back to the XIIIth century. Porec (Parenzo) is another village you can see along the coastline, it gathers the monuments and the palaces that were built along the Decumanus in its ancient core that shows a perfect layout. The Eufrasia church can be found here as well, it is the heritage of Unesco, its mosaics date back to the VIth century and they still keep 80% of their original tiles
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An ace in the hole
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outhern of Porec the coastline has still three winning cards to play starting with Funtana (Fontane), a tiny fishers’ village set in a cove whose name comes from the sources that gush near the coast. Vrsar (Orsera) deserves a visit to see its church of Madonna del Mare, built in the IXth century and enlarged in the XIIth century. It’s one of the main Roman buildings of the Croatian area that exhibits some frescos and a precious floor with flowers
decorations. You can reach Limski Kanal (the Lemme channel) from Vsar, actually it’s a nine kilometres deep and six-hundred metres wide fiord and it is sided by lush shores where there are some caves that keep prehistorical findings. It’s one of the most beautiful natural reserves of this area to be slowly sipped with all your senses. The law salt content of the water helps the growing of shellfish and fish, the best delicacies you can taste.
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Crossborder: Croatia
Crossborder: Croatia
At full pinnacle
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n the core of the Istrian triangle you can set your foot in a Rovinj (Rovigno) that keeps the Balbi Arch dating back to the XVIIth century and its’ decorated with the lion of Saint Mark that dates back to the XVth century. You can read almost five centuries of the Republic of Venice through the stones and you can discover the history of this sea village at the Regional Museum. The villages is featured by narrow streets that go up towards the hill where the cathedral of S. Eufemia and its tower bell stand out against the sky. The tower bell is 60 metres high and it is
the highest of Istria. You can sail towards the 13 little islands facing the shore, Crveni Otok (the red island) is the most important one because of an abbey founded by the Benedictines in the VIth century and because of its blue coves. And more abysses: the archipelago of Brijuni (Brioni) emerges in the open sea between Rovinj and Pula, it has been a national park since 1983 with around 700 species of plants and a range of things to do: there’s a modern safari-park, some ancient fortresses, a few ancient monasteries, the Roman and the Byzantine villas.
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At the top and on the Eastern side
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n Pula (Pola) time touches the monuments and the history has been relentlessly working for thousands of years: there’s a Roman amphitheatre that was built in the first century A.D. to show the fights of the gladiators. The external part of this arena is made of white stones from Istria, it has three rows of seats on two levels with 72 archways and a third level with two squared openings. The arena is untouched, it is a massive construction with a view on the sea and many shows and concerts are held there nowadays.
The area of the Roman Forum can’t be missed as well since the temple of Rome and Augustus, the Arch of Sergi and the Roman Theatre are a must. Punta Kamenjak looks like a necklace that reaches out the sea, it is a rugged cliff with around 500 species of plants and long beaches that introduce rich sea-beds as well as Rabac (Porto Albona) on the Eastern coast that is a sequence of gravel, coastal areas under the hill of Albona, the final Medieval destination of this journey in the spirit of the unbearable lightness of being.
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ENHANCE
Tastefully Italian
sanpellegrino.com
MOMENTS
Antonella Andretta
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More adrenaline for everyone
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or some people doing nothing is the most difficult thing: they suffer from lying in the sun all day, from being stuck in a SPA and they get bored if they are forced on a slow holiday. Here are some good hints for the ones who prefer moving around along a route that goes from the North to the South of Italy.
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irst of all there’s the contact with nature and animals that can convey deep feelings and a horse-ride trekking with the support of the Willow Horse Center of Smarano (Trento) which is a chance for a dynamic holiday in Val di Non. The trekking trips are customized and they are organized by skilled alpine guides, they can last one or a few days and they include a number of stops in the pastures or exciting night rides. The centre is specialized on horse-riding courses for adults and kids. You can also boost your adrenaline by trying the cable flight and it is
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located in Valtellina. The one-way flight is around a kilometre and a half long, it connects Albaredo with San Marco (Sondrio) where you can also find the ticket office then you can reach Bema; the return way connects Bema with Albaredo and you can reach San Marco from there but it runs along a different route. You don’t have to be skilled and you can fly alone or with another person (info flyemotion.it). Is it not enough for you? The movie saga of “Fast and Furious”, has certainly boosted your interest for the wheel spins and reversed steering: wouldn’t
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More adrenaline for everyone
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More adrenaline for everyone
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too: the boarding is from the small lake of Piano di Gioviano and the arrival is in Chifenti near the river Lima. There are two rapids along the route that can be covered in around one hour and a half. The equipment is provided by Dreavel and there are many opportunities to match the visits and the excursions to Lucca and its surroundings. A bit Southern, always for the lovers of freshwater there is Campania Adventure, a sports society skilled in environmental and sports excursions, they suggest activities with the kayak down the rivers, orienteering, surviving and adventure tracks in diffe-
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you like to navigate like the protagonists of the movie? You don’t need to go to Hollywood and if you want to improve your driving skills there’s the International Safe Driving Centre De Adamich: you can spend e whole day or a week end on a sport driving course to live an exciting and unusual experience and you can also give this experience to someone who’s really special to you. The centre is in Varano de’ Melegari, not far from Parma. If you prefer to have a good time with your family you can cross the Apennines to try the soft rafting on the river Serchio (Lucca), it is suitable for children
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rent areas of the region especially in the National Park of Cilento near Vallo di Diano and Alburni (Salerno) where the main premises are based: the kayaking school on the Calore rivers’ banks in Controne, the rafting centre in Postiglione. What else a super-active person can do without forgetting the beach? Caprera is the answer: it is an amazing place, there is the Caprera Sailing Centre: you can take part in the one or two-weeks courses to learn the basics or you can go deep into the specific techniques to sail the cabin cruisers and much more. There are courses for everyone from 15 years olds to adults, all levels, the accommo-
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dation is very simple and plain but it is really enjoyable and motivating and an unforgettable experience is guaranteed. You can be finally thrilled by the tandem paragliding, you are protected by a complete harness and a skilled pilot and you can fly above the landscapes of the North-Western of Sicily: you can start your exciting experience from the top of a steep mountain (no big jumps from high cliffs) and you’ll be flying in a few seconds without the need of any specific skill since the pilot will totally control your flight. Few experiences can be more exciting than this one, you must try it at least once in your life.
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More adrenaline for everyone
OUT OF PLACE HOLIDAYS
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OUT OF PLACE HOLIDAYS
More adrenaline for everyone
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More adrenaline for everyone
OUT OF PLACE HOLIDAYS
Renata Giolli
e-borghi wellness: Tables and typical products
Tables and typical products
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he food affects our health, we know it and the German philosopher Ludwig Feuerbach already had this vision in the XVIIIth century and he used to say “you are what you eat”. This well-known statement has been used by anyone seeking for a relation between the food and the health. Nowadays we all know it is true and we look for the places where the typical products bring back many interesting stories. Let’s start with our sweet journey to discover one of the most amazing products of nature, the honey. It helps you when you have a cough, it heals the little wounds, it hydrates your chapped lips and we all know its relaxing properties when it is contained in the herbal teas we sip before going to sleep. The best honey is produced in the mountains where the air is clean and fresh. We suggest you to taste the one from the Dolomites around Belluno, it’s production started in the XVIth century, it became a Doc product in 2010 and it is based in the village of Limana. A festival is held there
in Autumn and the best honey is awarded with a prize and tourists and visitors can taste all the products that are made from honey. If you fancy having an entire meal from honey the local people will suggest you to taste the potatoes gnocchi (a type of pasta) with the honey and the ginger, the rabbit meat with chestnuts and honey and the caramel figgy ice-cream. In the villages of Friuli where people still live in beautiful little houses made of stones and wood, you can focus your attention on the honey vinegar. It’s a Pat (traditional food product) coming from Carnia whose therapeutic uses have been known since the ancient times. All grandmas there know that a tea-spoon a day in Spring will wake your body up, will balance your stomach and your intestine, will prevent the rheumatic pains and will heal your allergies. It will also make your hair and skin brighter and it will help you in the kitchen with a little effort. The sweet and sour sauce for instance is made by using the same quantity of apple cider
Tables and typical products
Tables and typical products
vinegar, sugar and flour, a hint of ginger and the cloves. In the valley of Southern Trentino Riva Del Garda deserves a stop to take part in a festival that is called “Gar-
da con gusto� (Garda with taste) which is a real ode to carne salada (salted meat). It is one of the very few salami accepted by dieticians since it is rich of proteins and it is also low in fat. Its spicy taste is unique. It was born in the XVth century because of some conservation needs. Nowadays the techniques have improved but the production is quite similar to the old one. The beef without the fat is covered in the salt and the spice and it is kept in a dry environment for 2 or 5 weeks. A different
can fill ourselves up with vitamins if we go towards the South by choosing the lemons from Sorrento in Campania as well as the ones from Puglia from the Gargano area or the ones coming from the area of Rocca Imperiale in Calabria or the ones from Messina. In Sicily there are the Igp red oranges from the area of Francoforte and Lentini in Sicily. All this citrus fruit is perfect for the recipes with pasta, fish or meat and for the very tasty desserts too. We can finally flavour everything with a little salt, just a little to prevent the hypertension and enjoy all the properties of the mineral salts. So let’s chose the sea salt from Sant’Antioco, the island of Sardinia with a very old history that is one of the main destinations for the tasty travellers who are willing to discover one of the most ancient routes of salt.
Tables and typical products
type of meat, less famous but very tasty is the carne fumada (smoked meat) from Val di Cembra. In both cases the local cookbooks are full of raw and cooked ways to prepare it. Let’s move to the raw cereals and the legumes, the nutritionists’ best combination. They are rich of fibres, mineral salts and proteins and they help the intestinal activity, they increase the satiety and they adjust the blood glucose and the cholesterol. In this case we are interested in the readers’ taste so we must suggest a number of specialties like the Igp spelt from Garfagnana, a specialty from Tuscany to be used in the soups and in the salads together with the Igp (guarantee of origin) lentils from Castelluccio di Norcia in Umbria or the Dop (Denomination of protected origin) white beans from Rotonda in Basilicata. We
Tables and typical products
TORNA AL SOMMARIO
Tables and typical products
Ivan Pisoni
facebook.com/pisoni.ivan.7
Legends Mythical well-being resorts and SPAs
Mythical well-being resorts and SPAs
The nymph that was turned into a healthy artichoke T
he artichoke can be considered the “warrior of the well-being” since it is rich in anti-oxidants, potassium, phosphorus, sodium, calcium and vitamin A. It has a prickly armour and a noble and soft heart and it is the protagonist of a legend that goes back to the Greek mythology. Actually its story is related to a nymph called Cynara. This fabulous creature, tall, slim, proud and moody with her green-violet eyes and ashen hair (the Latin word for artichoke “Cinis” comes from the word
ash that was used to fertilize it) used to charm everybody, the dying creatures and the undying ones. Even Zeus wasn’t indifferent to her beauty and he desperately fell in love with her. It must have been a honour to be loved by the Greek god but Cynara didn’t care. Zeus couldn’t accept it so on a wrath moment he turned the wonderful girl into an artichoke. A green and prickly artichoke that suited the girl’s personality, violet like the colour of her eyes and a soft heart like the one of a sweet girl.
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n the valley of the Hypass river (the Belice valley in Sicily)two happy shepherds used to live, their names were Cinzio and Corinzia. Once they decided to go up the mouth of the river to find the “sacred source”. The singing crashing of water was invisible and hidden under the thick vegetation but it was their guide along the route up to the hillside. When they reached the foot of the mountain they found the mythical source, it was very hot and the shapes of some sort of steam clouds were dancing in the humid hair and the feeling of a warm and welcoming place was wrap-
ping the two shepherds. Cinzio and Corinzia settled there, during the day they used to hold sacred rituals dedicated to the source and Aphrodite goddess while they used to rest in the evening in a nearby cave that had become their shelter. As time went by, confident in the strength of nature and the rituals they used to perform they realized they had become undying creatures. Their body didn’t get old in that place and their beauty and virtues were untouched. The place where the Thermal Baths of Montevago are set nowadays was really a sacred place.
Mythical well-being resorts and SPAs
The mythical discovery of Montevago Thermal Baths
Mythical well-being resorts and SPAs
The origins of the “stinking� cave of Santa Cesarea T
he thermal properties of Santa Cesarea’s caves were known before the foundation of the inhabited centre. There are four caves that have been attracting travellers and pilgrims since the ancient times because of their sulphurous water and the mud that is still used today: the Gattulla, the Solfatara, the Solfurea and the Fetida. There are two legends about the origin of the stinking source, the first is a pagan one and it tells about the deeds of the brave Ercules who after fighting against the Leuterni giants threw their bodies into the cave
and their decomposition originated the sulphurous water. The second legend has got Christian origins and it tells the story of Cesarea (or Cisaria), a very religious girl who wanted to become a nun. Her father was a very bad man and he tried to convince her to submit to his incestuous will but she kept refusing. Once Cesarea decided to run away and she found a shelter in a cave by the sea. Her father chased her but it was caught by fire so he fell into the sea and he disappeared. Since that day the water of that cave has been stinking.
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The horrible pit of knives of Caderzone Terme’s palace I
n one of the best thermal places of Italy a legend about a cursed room is told; many people used to be taken there and killed. When the present building of Caderzone Thermal Baths (the village in the province of Trento) was a single construction there was a hanging corridor inside it that led to a room that was called the “room of hearings” where an awful trap door was hidden. The unskilled merchants, the
arrogant landowners or the family’s opponents used to be taken there. The plan was easy: guests were invited and they were offered an elegant accommodation then they were taken to the awful room where the floor used to open on a chasm filled with edged knives. This used to happen in the past. According to nemesis Caderzone Terme is a well-being village nowadays.
Mythical well-being resorts and SPAs
Ivan Pisoni
facebook.com/pisoni.ivan.7
Did you know that...
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he four things that really matter in life are always with us. According to the website “viverepiusani.it “ focusing on things that really matter in life is very important and they are the foundations of our happiness. When I went through them I considered they are a bit given for granted but if you go deeper into this matter you’ll understand that it is not true. The four mentioned things are: our health, the time we dedicate to ourselves, the love for our loved ones and for our friends and setting a goal in our life. When I read the fourth point I was really impressed by this statement “A life without an aim is a life without a destination”.
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he lantern (the yellow pumpkin) used to celebrate Halloween was not a pumpkin. It’s a healthy food rich of different properties, actually it is rich in vitamins, nutrients, it has few calories, it’s rich of beta carotene, omega 3, minerals, fibres, vitamins A and C, it prevents the colitis, the intestinal inflammations and much more... But this vegetable that is carved and turned into a lantern on Halloween was not a pumpkin. The legend goes that the Jack the Irish man, after cheating the dying devil that was rejected either by the Heaven or by the Hell started to wonder around with a coal of fire inside a turnip. This turnip became a pumpkin only when this legend arrived in America.
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phrodisiac food... really? the myth of Aphrodite goddess has convinced us that some ingredients can magically boost the sexual desire or may have some disinhibitory effects but is it true? It seems to be true. According to a panel discussion organized by “Pianeta Uomo” – Siu (Italian Urology Society), it sounds that the chili, the nutmeg, the pepper, the ginger, the cloves, the seafood, the celery, the truffles, the honey, the ginseng, the chocolate and the champagne belong to this category. The Champagne!? I had no doubts... But there’s a lot to say about this topic so I’d like you to click on “discover” to know more.
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praying your house with basil brings positive energies. Well, it’s true, after doing your cleaning, put a few drops of basil essential oil into your vaporizer (30 drops per litre) and spray it on the floor, on the furniture and in every corner of your house. This way the negative energies that are amassed during your life will be swept away. They say this is a useful thing to do also on your workplace!
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ho said that having your hair cut will make it stronger? Sure, you might have heard about it, maybe that’s what your favourite hairstylist told you. So, let’s have a short hair cut which is very trendy and fashionable. Well, it is completely false. Having your hair cut eliminates the weakest parts, your hair will sound thicker but it won’t be stronger.
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he cod liver oil Won’t make your children grow stronger. It’s time to stop all those tortures inflicted to children by grand-parents belonging to the old generations that risked damaging their taste forever. Nowadays we know for sure that the cod liver oil that is undoubtedly rich of vitamins and was considered the perfect remedy to protect the cardiovascular system, to heal the injuries or it was necessary for the growth isn’t better than a good dish of cod with vegetables.
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big happy hour after a long working day? Then one or two glasses of wine in your place? Are you stressed, aren’t you? According to a study of the British Medical Journal, it sounds that people who work more than 48 hours per week tend to drink more alcohol to reduce their stress than the ones who work less hours. True or false? …do you fancy a beer?
Did you know that.... wellness special
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he dopamine, this unknown bringer of health. The dopamine is a neurotransmitter produced by the brain also known as “the hormone of excitement” since it is related to the satisfaction and the “rewarding system”. The dopamine is released from our body whenever we do something we like: it is related to good food, good wine, good company, a beautiful landscape, a happy situation, the sex, the love of friends and even our favourite music. Each time you feel gratified, happy, excited, motivated... well, the dopamine is always behind all that.
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The Thermal Baths of the crossed destines
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Review
Follow your heart by Susanna Tamaro
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n the second half of the twentieth century an entire generation of young girls believed that a novel should contain the word “heart” so that it could attract the female young readers who grew up and read “Follow your heart”, the novel that gave the fame to the writer Susanna Tamaro. We would like to disclose it to a bigger number of readers who don’t know the plot which is very modern. It’s a novel of more than two-hundred pages and it was published and issued by Baldini and Castoldi in 1994, it soon began a world best seller and it was translated into many different languages. The story is told as an epistolary novel and it’s about the story of Olga, an elderly Italian woman who, prompted by the knowledge of her encroaching death, sits down to write a letter to her granddaughter to tell her about her life and she discloses a secret she had kept within herself for too long. She grew up in Trieste and
she had a strict middle-class upbringing from a family of Jewish origins but her ambitions were hindered also when she decided to accept a marriage without passion. Olga sounds resigned since she can’t find the fulfilment of her desires in the external world. Nevertheless when she decides to spend two weeks at the Thermal Baths in Porretta, in the province of Bologna, she meets a handsome doctor, Ernesto and their relationship makes her feel a living creature for the first time in her life. Destiny won’t be good to her but the future shows up in a clear way from that situation.
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Giulio Tellarini
facebook.com/giulio.tellarini
In an environment that is generally dedicated to the purification of the body, the mind and the soul the protagonist of this novel closely meets her deepest feelings and she’s overcome by life. Luckily literature isn’t divided according to the different genres anymore so men can approach
the whispering charm of the intimate writing of Susanna Tamaro as well as the enjoyment that has matched the “masculinity“ since the beginning of the XXth century: the Thermal Baths. It’s not by chance that they were invented and built by the Romans two thousand years ago.
Review
The backpack
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Naipo MGS-150D electric massage device for the neck, the shoulders and the back
This device is equipped with 8 massaging heads that can change their direction every minute and can heat the painful parts of your body up to 40 degrees. It helps you to reduce the pains derived from your muscle tension. € 49,99
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Infactory lamp for colours therapy (256 colours)
Black rechargeable LED Touch lamp with USB. It generates 256 colours through a screen made of acrylic glass and it can diffuse a low light in the room. You can change the colours by simply touching an integrated device with your finger. € 40,89
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Smartbox gift box for the couples
Enjoy your journey through the well-being with your mate! Thanks to the gift box “Well-being for two” you can live an experience that is specifically designed for your body well-being. € 89,90
Ivan Pisoni
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Shoulder bag for pets up to 6 kilos
This shoulder bag for pets is practical and smart, it has been designed to bring your pet with you in total comfort. Your pets will be happy to roll around in the soft cotton fabric and they will feel comfortable and safe. € 15,99
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Mr. Echo men’s anti-aging soothing face cream
This cream is perfect as an aftershave balm, it’s very hydrating and it makes your skin bright thanks to its natural ingredients. It has a soothing effect if you use it after the shaving. € 28,00
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It’s the only pillow that guarantees a full lateral support of your upper body: it can help you to relax, fall asleep and sleep longer. It’s ergonomic and adjustable when you travel by plane, by car, by bus, by train and whenever you may need it. It’s folding and easy to inflate. € 22,99
The backpack
Travelrest travel pillow
The backpack
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Mystic Moments essential oils box 5x10ml
It’s a gift box that contains the basil, the cypress, the lavender, the rose, the geranium and the rosemary essential oils from France. € 15,95
MEIXX 300ml ultrasounds diffuser-humidifier for essential oils
It produces a concentrated fog and a lasting perfume that can be spread in a wide area. It automatically switches off when its content is over, it has a led light with different types of lightings and it creates a relaxing atmosphere for your body and your mind. € 32,98
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Body firming cream with thermal water from Lurisia
A highly hydrating, nourishing, firming body cream. It will leave a wrapping spicy scent on your body. It will mineralize your skin and it twill make you feel very energetic. € 22,80
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Toomlight Electronic corkscrew for wine bottles
It has an ergonomic design, it’s user friendly and it meets the International standards. This unusual electric corkscrew is an original gift. It comes with a round paper knife which is perfect to remove the bottles’ wrappers. € 14,99 Y BU N
Relaxing herbal tea with an aromatic and sweet taste. It is a good natural help to reduce your stress, your anxiety, your palpitation and your insomnia. It is made in a natural way by using a mix of dry herbs in Sprea in the Lessini mountains in the province of Verona. € 18,99
Solgar-Amino Relax vegetal capsules for your good mood and your mental relaxation
Food supplement containing the Vitamin B6, griffonia extract and valerian. 30 vegetal capsules for your daily well-being. € 48,00
The backpack
Erbecedario relaxing herbal tea
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The backpack
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Emouchet white noise emitter with 15 relaxing sounds
It produces 15 relaxing sounds among which the white noise that can almost completely reduce the surrounding sounds. The rain forest, the thunder, the little bell, the fan, the wind, the campfire, the ocean, the seagulls, the stream, the birds, the typhoon, the rain are the main sounds that are made by this emitter. These sounds help your concentration and your relaxation before falling asleep. € 55,94
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Set of 12 relaxing “bath bombs”, useful for your aromatherapy and the hydration of your skin. Perfumes Grace & Stella Co.
Each “bath bomb” is a complete thermal treatment you can do at home. The natural marine clay that is contained in these fizzers are rich in nutrients and minerals. € 22,99
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Take care of yourself when you travel. Country by country
It’s un updated, modern useful tool when you travel since travelling also means taking some precautions especially if you travel to places where there’s a particular climate or the lack of health protection that might expose you to the risk of contracting infectious diseases. € 12,66
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Eurobuy bluetooth travel mask
Comfortable washable dark silk mask with bluetooth system to receive telephone calls and listen to music through your mobile telephone. Rechargeable through a USB cable. € 21,75
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These balls have been designed as stress relievers. Each ball embodies one of the three secrets of a peaceful life: awareness, gratefulness and positivity. They are coated with Lycra, they are smooth and soft to touch and they are perfumed with different scents for a full relaxing experience. The lemon scent (Blue) the Jasmin (purple) the rosemary (green) can reduce your stress and help your physical and psychological well-being. € 18,98
The backpack
Envision anti-stress perfumed balls set