Digital travel magazine about villages and slow tourism
SEA
The other Tuscany, surprise scenarios La Maddalena, between myrtle and mistral Salento, the Paradise suddenly Sicily, the myth continues Alghero, the red gold of corals Sperlonga, Neptune and Ulysses Greece, legendary beauty
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Issue 04 2019 Free edition
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® e-borghi travel 04 www.e-borghitravel.com Publisher Salvatore Poerio direzione@3scomunicazione.com Publishing coordinator Luciana Francesca Rebonato coordinamento@e-borghi.com Art director Ivan Pisoni grafica@e-borghi.com Editorial office Simona Poerio segreteria@e-borghi.com With the collaboration of Antonella Andretta, Alessandra Boiardi, Simona P.K.Daviddi, Marino Pagano, Carola Traverso Saibante, Valentina Schenone, Luca Sartori, Joni Scarpolini Translation Beatrice Lavezzari Promotion and Advertising 3S Comunicazione – Milano Cosimo Pareschi pareschi@e-borghi.com Commercial development Maurizio Bevilacqua commerciale@e-borghi.com Editing 3S Comunicazione Corso Buenos Aires, 92, 20124 Milano info@3scomunicazione.com tel. 0287071950 – fax 0287071968 The use of our website and our on-line magazine is subject to the following terms: all rights reserved. Any section of www.e-borghi.com can’t be reproduced, recorded or broadcasted in any form or by any means, be it electronic or mechanical or through photocopies, recording or other systems without a previous written authorization by 3S Comunicazione. Although a careful check of the information that are contained in this issue has been carried out, 3S Comunicazione won’t be considered responsible for any mistakes or omissions. The opinions being given by contributors are necessarily the same as the ones given by 3S Comunicazione. Unless different directions, the individual copyrights belong to the contributors. All efforts have been made to track down the owners of the photos’ copyright in case they were not taken by our photographers. We’re apologizing in advance for possible omissions and we’re available to enter further clarifications in the next issues. © 2019 e-borghi
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eLuciana Francesca Rebonato facebook.com/lfrancesca.rebonato
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ime slows down by the sea and the infinite opens up. On this new issue of e-borghi travel the word “sea” will be your passport through the feelings and the enchantment of the places you are going to know. Set sail towards the coastlines we have chosen for you and fulfill your senses in the villages surrounding Nettuno that shape the coast together with the islands and the group of islands that have come to the surface thus giving the sea-lovers many sacred works of art and the masterpieces of nature. It’s the magic between the mainland and the waves and the climax can be reached in Tuscany where the history and the art have come together to make an endless stage of cultural heritage and an amazing landscape. A great variety of views especially along the coastline; sandy beaches, cliffs, inlets, dunes and the wind that ruffle them. The archipelago of La Maddalena is standing out between the sea and the Mistral, an incredible landscape of islands, sea-beds, the triumph of shapes and colors that make this part of Sardinia the perfect place for a slow tourism with the wind in your sails. On the Western part of the Island Alghero will impress you with its clear blue water and a palette of colors that froths the deep blue waves as well as its coral coastline that stretches for kilometers and shows the white sandy beaches, the inlets and the cliffs. If you go back to the mainland you’ll be able to reach Sperlonga, a never-ending surprising place featured by beautiful views, the bright houses and the view of the Pontine islands. Then with a jump you will be in the Salento, the exotic Italian area with two seas that ridge its beaches, the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea. The coastline along the Ionian Sea is featured by sandy and rocky beaches while the Adriatic Sea is featured by many exciting cliffs and a list of tiny villages that is shared by both. Then the South of Sicily will give you wonderful temples with a view, golden sea-dunes, white rocks and calcareous white rocks that were shaped by the wind. If you cross the borders of Italy you’ll meet Greece, a chest of classical myths and surprising landscapes where the “slow” tourism is ideally described by the words kairós and krónos, the two meanings that the Greek used to give to the time. Since “happiness is a simple idea when facing the sea” as Jean-Claude Izzo used to write.
Luciana Francesca Rebonato Publishing coordinator
Summary Toscana
La Maddalena
Coastline of the coral
South-Western Sicily
Cibo Nostrum
Salento
Sperlonga
Crossborders: Greece
Out of place holidays
Loving‌ with art
Legends
Curiosities
Review
Cover Tropical studio/Shutterstock.com - Gabriele Maltinti/Shutterstock.com
Tuscany
The other Tuscany: travelling around the hinterland villages, the coastline and the islands
Bolgheri and Castagneto vineyard. In the background, the Elba Island StevanZZ/Shutterstock.com
Simona PK Daviddi
facebook.com/simona.pk.daviddi
MeskPhotography/Shutterstock.com
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f Florence, Pisa, the “Chiantishire” as well as the villages like Volterra and San Giminiano are famous all over the world, Tuscany is actually an endless chest of historical, architectural and natural treasures that can astonish even the ones who think they know this region pretty well thanks to many precious details that are like precious jewels that deserve to be slowly discovered in a well-being mood. But your experience there can also be active, you can choose the bike or the walking tourism that can be matched to a stay in one of the very trendy places that are spot-
ted along the coastline. You can see amazing villages in the hinterland, they sound protecting the coastline with their ancient strongholds and they are the perfect panoramic points to enjoy the sunset on the sea while you are sipping some precious local wine, it’s another “gift” that Tuscany gives to its visitors thanks to its position that looks towards the West. Let’s set off to some amazing unusual places: we’ll travel not far from the coastline leaving from the Northern side where the hinterland borders with Liguria. (For further information: visittuscany.com)
Castiglione Della Pescaia poludziber/Shutterstock.com
Fosdinovo: the Francigena crossroads
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t is set between the sea, the Apennines and the mounts of Lunigiana, in the Middle Ages this area used to see the crossing of people and goods that were shipped from the ports to the inner lands then they crossed the border to reach the Grand-Dutchy and the territories beyond. Fosdinovo is also about one of the most powerful families of Lunigiana, the Malaspina whose huge castle surrounded by four high towers, the walking ways on the roof-gardens and the terraces is still there to protect the underneath Me-
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dieval hamlet. There’s a breathless view from the top of it. It was built in the 12th century but it was changed and enriched plenty of times, it keeps beautiful rooms with frescoes and ancient furniture and some rooms dating back to the Middle Ages like the “trap-room” that leads to the below room of tortures. There’s also a ghost, if you visit the castle you might come across the young Bianca Maria Aloisia Malaspina who was buried alive by her parents to stop her relationship with a stable boy.
Malaspina Castle Sandro Amato/Shutterstock.com
Fosdinovo outcast85/Shutterstock.com
Tower in the village iryna1/Shutterstock.com
Lard of Colonnata francesco de marco/Shutterstock.com
Colonnata arkanto/Shutterstock.com
Colonnata, between the marble caves and the lard
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t’s an ancient marble village, it seems that its name is related to the fact that the marble from its caves was used to build the colonnades of the Roman temples. It is set between the white mountains of marble and a unique product which is made there, it’s the lard: this is the core of Colonnata, a handful of houses gathered around the stone clocktower that can be reached by following a panoramic road. You can go to Colonnata and walk around its narrow streets and
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you can see the marble caves when they become orange and red at the sunset then you can sit down at one of the typical local restaurants and taste their local precious product with the fried pasta or with polenta. The lard and the marble share more or less the same history since the lard was used to feed the poorest miners and the traditional recipe is still used for its preparation that implies the maturing in the marble caves to guarantee the transpiration.
Fountain of the promenade Andreas Jung/Shutterstock.com
Manolo Valdes Alessandro Colle/Shutterstock.com
Cathedral of San Martino Claudio Giovanni Colombo/Shutterstock.com
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t has always been considered the city of artists not just because Giosuè Carducci was born there: it has been chosen as a “buen retiro” by several sculptors and painters in the last decades mainly Igor Mitoraj and Fernando Botero who have turned it into an open-air museum thanks to their creative energy. It’s a place where the art and the sculpture share the space with the ancient artistic heritage while the art galleries and the marble workshops pop up in the paved narrow streets of the historical centre near the wine bars and the elegant restaurants. The Langobard
Marina di Pietrasanta lorenzobovi/Shutterstock.com
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In Pietrasanta to breath the art
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fortress to which some Renaissance elements have been added is standing on the top. Walking around the historical centre is like going back in time, you pass by the amazing rose window of San Martino cathedral dating back to the 15th century then you reach the modern Piazzetta del Centauro arranged in 1995 by using beautiful marble decorations and the sculpture by Mitoraj or you can see the old Medieval entrances to the feudal palaces. The trendy Marina isn’t far, you can enjoy your relaxing moments in front of the blue Tyrrhenian Sea.
Marina di Pietrasanta Fotografiche/Shutterstock.com
Church of San Pietro Piergiovanni M/Shutterstock.com
Camaiore and its beaches: the perfect match
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nly eight kilometres separate the charming village of Camaiore from the sea where many golden sandy beaches are laid down along the coastline; it’s the perfect match of two different landscapes, the secluded monumental village and the trendy seafront that has been attracting the members of royal families, actors and artists who have always affected the urban display. For example the villa where Gabriele d’Annunzio and Eleonora Duse stayed at the climax of their love-story is a luxury hotel by the sea. If the re-
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cent history is about love and art the ancient history is about faith and the pilgrims when Campo Maggiore was a crossroad of the Via Francigena, it is also mentioned by the Archbishop of Canterbury in his famous travel diaries dating back to the 10th century. The Langobard San Pietro Abbey whose most ancient part dates back to 761 A.D. and the Parish Church of Santo Stefano, a bit more modern are interesting places to visit too since they remind the passing of the pilgrims headed towards Rome.
Pier of Lido di Camaiore LongJon/Shutterstock.com
francesco carniani/Shutterstock.com
Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta Claudio Giovanni Colombo/Shutterstock.com
Pier of Lido di Camaiore LongJon/Shutterstock.com
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Casciana-Lari: spread beauty
n the hillside area around Pisa there’s a bunch of villages which are featured by their peculiar personality and they all have some treasures to be disclosed; these villages are called “the spread municipality “(comune sparso in Italian) of Casciana-Lari. It’s a very ancient Etruscan Roman area whose history is featured by many churches, the strongholds, the noble palaces, the sanctuaries, the farms and the mills that are spread in this territory. We can start with Lari, built around a Medieval fortress that was restored by the Medici family during the Renaissance and it was afterwards
turned into the castle of the Vicari where the Florentines used to run the whole territory, including the witchcraft trials: according to the legend it is inhabited by the ghost of Rosso della Paola who was executed in the castle. We can now move to Casciana, surrounded by the olive trees and the vineyards, its thermal water is very famous and it’s protected by a wooden crucifix dating back to the 14th century which is kept in the church of San Martino in Petraija. Finally you can stop in Ceppato to see its towered houses and also visit Collemontanino and its massive fortress.
Lari stefano cellai/Shutterstock.com
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on’t be confused by the name Rosignano Marittimo since this charming little village is actually perched on a hill a few kilometres away from the coast. It is featured by its old tower-castle that was built around the year 1100 and it was strengthened four centuries later. A more modern castle can be seen in Castiglioncello, an elegant and trendy sea place where actors, writers and politicians used to go in the past, it has also been ce-
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Rosignano: the sea in its nature
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lebrated by the Macchiaioli painters and it’s loved by the yachtsmen, the windsurf and the diving lovers because of its several secluded coves, the inlets, the tiny beaches and the cliffs overlooking the clear blue sea. This part of the coast hides another surprise to be explored on foot or by bicycle; it’s the Tombolo Natural Reserve of Cecina, a wonderful pine forest that goes down towards the beach surrounded by the clear blue sea.
Castle of Rosignano Marittimo ermess/Shutterstock.com
Simona Bottone/Shutterstock.com
Simona Bottone/Shutterstock.com
Rosignano Marittimo robertonencini/Shutterstock.com
Castle of Bolgheri RobertKuehne/Shutterstock.com
GagliardiPhotography/Shutterstock.com
Simona Bottone/Shutterstock.com
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Bolgheri: a wine poetry
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s soon as you think of Bolgheri two things will certainly come to your mind: “I cipressi che a Bolgheri alti e schietti van da San Guido in duplice filar” a line from one of Carducci’s poems and the Superiore, the red wine that is produced from the local vineyards thanks to the particular micro-climate that features this area as well as the other famous wines from Tuscany like the Sassicaia, the Ornellaia and the Masseto. Visiting the wineries of Bolgheri is a must as well as its paved narrow
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streets, the little shops and the beautiful noble palaces decorated with plenty of geranium plants, they all deserve a visit. The inhabited centre is really impressing, you can enter through the castle’s door covered in red bricks, it is so beautiful that it sounds being the protagonist of a fairy tale. It has belonged to the Earls of Gherardesca since the 13th century and it’s featured by a peculiar rectangular tower and it’s embellished by some crenelated mullioned windows and single windows.
Bolgheri cypress road StevanZZ/Shutterstock.com
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Castagneto: from the Longobards to Carducci
f the name suggests the setting of the green chestnut trees that encases it that means that you are in the heart of Maremma near Pisa. The full name of this village has been Castagneto Carducci since 1907 in honour of the great poet who lived there for a few years when he was a child. It’s strictly related to the history of the noble family Della Gherardesca who fortified it around the year 1000 by building a huge castle that has been attacked plenty of times along the centuries. The village is surrounded by two rings of walls but only
Simona Bottone/Shutterstock.com
the seafront side has survived, it is perched on the top of a hill where the village has been developing around the castle. The village is featured by narrow streets and little squares as well as by the aristocratic palaces and the old churches among which the church of San Lorenzo and the church of S.S. Crocifisso with its amazing wooden crucifix dating back to the 15th century that deserve a visit. Finally you can’t miss Piazza della Gogna where people used to be put in the stocks in the past centuries.
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ermess/Shutterstock.com
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Gherardesca Castle in Castagneto Carducci robertonencini/Shutterstock.com
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Sassetta: a nativity scene
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t’s a little handful of light-coloured houses on a natural terrace around the noble Ramirez-Montalvo palace dating back to the 18th century where the Medieval Orlandi Castle was once set. This is the view that welcomes the visitors who are moving from the quiet green area of the Cornia Valley to Sassetta when they leave the noisy mass tourism of the coastline. The Maremma invites you to slow down and Sassetta is the symbol of the slow-tourism and the well-being along the oil and the wine route that is perfect
for the mountain bikers, the horse-riders who fancy trying the horse mounting in the “buttero” (a typical shepherd from Maremma) style or for unforgettable hiking excursions towards the forest park of Poggio Neri where you can visit the Museum of the Forest which is dedicated to the old work of the coalmen. Well-being also means feeling good and in the nearby area of La Cerreta there’s a natural thermal water source that represents the perfect final destination of your daily excursions.
Cornia Valley Steve Sidepiece/Shutterstock.com
Paolo Querci/Shutterstock.com
Campiglia Marittima: the mineral essence trains that were once used in the mines. There are quite many routes that reach some interesting places like San Silvestro Castle where you can see the ruins of the ancient miners’ village that was founded in the Middle Ages. The village offers charming views, its quiet narrow streets are surrounded by old stone houses, vaults, arches, stone front doors while just outside the centre there is the Roman Parish Church of San Giovanni that shows the crossing of the Templars, it will charm you with its solitude and its mysterious legacy.
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ach village from Tuscany has got its own story to tell and it’s featured by unique historical facts so each village enables you to plunge into a peculiar atmosphere. This is even more true when we mention Campiglia Marittima, which is a village of rare beauty and it has got its ace in the hole: the San Silvestro Archaeological Mines Park, 450 hectares that are dedicated to the discovery of the old copper, lead and silver mines in the Cornia Valley together with the museums that you can visit by taking one of the old little
Sean Heatley/Shutterstock.com
Ruins of a former English mining company Paolo Querci/Shutterstock.com
Medieval fortress complex Paolo Querci/Shutterstock.com
Curch of San Giovanni Paolo Querci/Shutterstock.com
Piombino: not the harbour only
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iombino is mainly related to its harbour from where you can set off to reach the main islands but it also deserves a more detailed visit around its historical centre which is surprisingly spread with precious treasures. Let’s start with Torrione and Rivellino, two massive semi-circular supporting towers that were built to protect the fortified walls then we can move to the Town Hall Palace and its high clocktower dating back to the late Middle Ages. Piazza Bovio is the perfect place for a break
and a gaze upon the endless blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea: it’s a panoramic terrace that was built on a rocky edge overlooking the sea above a marina that was once used by the fishermen and the view stretches up to the Elba Island and on a clear day you can also see the other archipelago’s islands like Montecristo, Giglio, Capraia and even Corsica in the distance. The Castle dating back to the 13th century and the Medici Fortress that was wanted by Cosimo de’ Medici in the 16th century also enrich this area.
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Marina di Piombino StevanZZ/Shutterstock.com
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Piombino Lighthouse StevanZZ/Shutterstock.com
Cape of Enfola, Elba Island stefano marinari/Shutterstock.com
Portoferraio Balate Dorin/Shutterstock.com
Sansone beach Fabiano’s_Photo/Shutterstock.com
Rio Marina Elflaco1983/Shutterstock.com
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Elba Island: the green heart
t’s an emerald set in a multi-coloured sea whose shades go from the strong blue to the deep light blue; the Elba island is a paradise where nature is the queen, it is sometimes harsh and wild like its cliffs overlooking the sea, it is sometimes quiet and charming with its inlets covered in soft sand, it’s an area featured by a long history and an important architectural heritage. There are important fortresses that were built to protect the island from the pirates’ raids, mainly the fortified village of Portoferraio and the tower of San Giovanni. There are also some beautiful Patrician vil-
las that were later restored by Napoleon during his exile on the island, the San Martino villa and the Mulini villa are the most famous and there are also many witnesses of the past wars like the tunnels, the shooting points, the little arracks and the powder magazines. That’s why this island is a multitargeted destination, for the ones who like discovering it by mountain bike, for the ones who prefer sailing around it or for the ones who simply like relaxing in the sun on the beach and maybe listening about the sad love between Maria and Lorenzo who was killed by the Saracens.
Elba Island StevanZZ/Shutterstock.com
Gorgona Island stefano cellai/Shutterstock.com
Cala Maestra, Island of Montecristo sansa55/Shutterstock.com
The Tuscan archipelago and its mythical islands
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he legend about the birth of the Tuscan archipelago has the taste of myths: it goes that Aphrodite lost the pearl necklace that Paris had given her when she came out of the foam of the Tyrrhenian Sea in order to rich her beloved Eros so seven pearls of her necklace shaped the amazing islands of the Tuscan archipelago instead of sinking like the other ones. Today these islands are part of the National Park, one of the biggest in Europe. Elba is the biggest island and it is also the most famous while Montecristo, Giannutri, Giglio, Gorgona, Capraia and Pianosa as well as a handful of
islets are considered its “younger sisters� and they are all rich of precious things to be seen including some beautiful places in the hinterland. From the wild Montecristo to the impervious Capraia with its charming Cala Rossa, from the Roman ruins of Pianosa to the wonderful Gorgona which is accessible only if you have a special permit since there is a penal colony on it, the secluded and the trendy Giglio with its historical village of Giglio Castello which is still surrounded by the walls and watched by the Medieval Rocca Pisana: they are six different sceneries that will give you unforgettable feelings.
Capraia Island Honza Hruby/Shutterstock.com
Giannutri Island Davide Martinelli/Shutterstock.com
Pianosa Island giancarlo1955/Shutterstock.com
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Torre del Campese, Giglio Island Matteo Gabrieli/Shutterstock.com
Montemassi Georgia Carini/Shutterstock.com
Roccastrada: a natural terrace
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he village of Roccastrada looks like a crowned hill that dominates the Maremma near Siena and the Maremma near Grosseto from above, there are the vineyards, the olive trees, the oaks and the chestnuts forests. The ancient walls sound melting with the rocky outcrop on which the village is laid thus shaping a threatening and mysterious giant stone. The houses gathered around the big fortress, the little squares and the ancient doorways make the landscape sweeter. Some for-
tified little villages are set all around, they are featured by old castles and watchtowers, two of them deserve to be visited: the charming Montemassi and the quiet Roccatederighi that can be reached by crossing some panoramic streets plunged into the green. Around 120 kilometres of walking and cycling tracks are also at your disposal, they belong to the Trekking Roccastrada’s routes, if you prefer horse-riding the horse route is in the surroundings.
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Castiglione della Pescaia: the heart of Maremma
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astiglione della Pescaia encloses in its area whatever you need for your green holidays as well as the possibility to enjoy the sports, the trendy places, the culture and the good food. The same wide choice is available on the different beaches where you can find different types of facilities, the equipped ones, the sandy beaches, the free ones, the ones with pebbles, with the golden sand or the rocks. The village is quite interesting with its Aragon castle surrounded by quadran-
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gular towers, the patrolling walk ways, the noble palaces like Palazzo Camaiori dating back to the 15th century and the more ancient Palazzo Centurioni as well as the charming church of San Giovanni, dating back to the 16th century. If you fancy driving for around 20 kilometres you won’t miss the Etruscan city of Vetulonia and its very interesting archaeological area, the necropolis and the precious objects that are kept in the archaeological museum.
Castiglione della Pescaia Georgia Carini/Shutterstock.com
lauradibi/Shutterstock.com
lauradibi/Shutterstock.com
Magliano: the “house� of Morellino
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he wines keep up with fashion but fame is generally reached thanks to the quality of the raw materials and the balance of the different tastes so it is not by chance that the Morellino of Scansano is counted among the best Tuscan wines. Magliano is located in the core of the production area of this Doc wine which is produced in a particularly beautiful area of the Maremma around Grossetto. The medieval village frame
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the postcard landscape thanks to its crenellated walls, the high Medieval towers and the noble palaces. If you leave the village you will find the amazing ruins of San Bruzio abbey dating back to the 11th century and the amazing witch’ olive tree which is 3.500 years old according to the legend and the circumference of its trunk proves that, maybe it was the witness of many witchy rituals many centuries ago.
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Church of San giovanni Battista MRTfotografie/Shutterstock.com
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f you see the village of Capalbio from above you’ll be impressed by its chromatic harmony: the stone houses and the roofs with the red tiles are like a carpet around the Medieval fortified walled castle that deserves a visit not just to go up the stairs and reach the panoramic terrace to enjoy the amazing view of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Argentario cape but also to see the piano that Puccini used to play when he was there.
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Capalbio: between sacred and profane
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The slow pace of this village perfectly matches the several cultural events that are held in Summer when a peculiar garden called Giardino dei Tarocchi (the Garden of Tarot) attracts the tourists and the visitors, it’s an artistic esoteric park located on the top of a hill on the outskirts of Capalbio where you can see some huge statues that are 12/17 metres high made by Niki de Saint that perfectly suit the surrounding environment.
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Giardino dei Tarocchi Paolo Trovo/Shutterstock.com
Castle of Capalbio mdlart/Shutterstock.com
Mark Zhu/Shutterstock.com
Giardino dei Tarocchi ValerioMei/Shutterstock.com
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Porto Ercole: natural glamour
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hen you mention Porto Ercole the glamour of the yachts and the leisure boats immediately come to your mind as well as the tiny restaurants where you can share your whole Summer night with celebrities: the Argentario area is with no doubt surrounded by a trendy fashionable atmosphere but it is also an amazingly beautiful place that will capture your senses as soon as you start crossing the three “branches” that lead to the cape from the mainland. There’s Orbetello and its lagoon which is considered the paradise of birdwatchers but also the perfect place for the romantic people because of
the amazing sunset you can see there. The village of Porto Ercole seems standing in a secluded position, it is protected by several fortresses and towers dating back to the Spanish domination that your sight can even perceive in the distance. The village is surrounded by huge walls and it’s dominated by a stronghold whose seriousness faces the salty scent that comes from the fishermen’s nets that are laid on the docks of the little harbour. Maybe the balance of these different elements enables Porto Ercole to be considered a well-known place at an International level (they say Vladimir Putin has got a house there).
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Sorano Karl Allen Lugmayer/Shutterstock.com
The cities of tuff: raids in the hinterland
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ere is the last stop of our long journey through the charming “coastal hinterland” of Tuscany, a long route that leaves from Liguria and almost reaches Lazio through several fortified villages, wonderful castles, legendary places and dream beaches. If you want to leave the blue Tyrrhenian Sea and go deeper into the hinterland there are three places that can’t be missed: Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano, three amazing villages that are set in the heart of the Etruscan area that sounds challenging the laws of nature perched on high tuff edges. You’ll be breathless facing Pitigliano as soon as
Sorano InnaFelker/Shutterstock.com
you see it in the distance and you’ll be charmed when you walk around its beautiful narrow streets. Sorano, dedicated to the ancient God Soranus is a labyrinth of paved narrow streets around the Orsini fortress while Sovana keeps some precious jewels like the stern Cathedral and the Roman church of Santa Maria. Cycling is the best way to visit these places and a stop at the Archaeological Museum of the Tuff City is unmissable since you’ll discover the Vie Cave that are some fascinating passages excavated in the tuff that have an uncertain origin and meaning.
Necropolis of Sovana Karl Allen Lugmayer/Shutterstock.com
BACK TO THE SUMMARY
Pitigliano krakow.poland/Shutterstock.com
Olbia-Temppio, Sardinia
La Maddalena, the village protected from wind
Valentina Schenone
Valentina Schenone
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Alessandra Boiardi
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Luca Sartori
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Italo Innocenti
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Caprera Island John_Walker/Shutterstock.com
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he village of La Maddalena was born in the second half of the 18th century along the Southern coast of the island near Cala Gavetta, an area that is protected from the wind. It has become bigger in the last years and the constructions have reached the area of Castelletti, a group of rocks that look out on the Eastern cove up to the square of Santa Maria Maddalena where the main church is still standing today. This is one of the most important monuments together with the mar-
ket and the City Hall which is located in the former Elms Square. A curious fact: the church was built between 1779 and 1784 when the people moved from the village of Collo Piano to the seaside area. It’s a quiet place in Winter and it becomes the favourite destination in Summer especially for the ones who want to relax, go sailing, swim in the different beautiful coves or plunge into the vibrating life of the city and stroll around the shops, the coffee bars and the locals.
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l borgo de La Maddalena è sorta sulla costa meridionale dell’isola nella seconda metà del Settecento, intorno a Cala Gavetta, in un sito protetto dai venti. Le sue abitazioni, con il passare degli anni, si sono intensificate verso i Castelletti (una serie di scogli affacciati sulla Cala a levante), fino a raggiungere la piazza di Santa Maria Maddalena, dove ancora oggi si trova la chiesa principale. Quest’ultima, insieme al mercato civico e al Municipio, nell’ex Piazza degli Olmi, è uno dei monumenti più
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importanti della destinazione. Una curiosità: la chiesa venne edificata tra il 1779 e il 1784, quando la popolazione, dal borgo di Collo Piano, si trasferì verso il mare. Se d’inverno è una località tranquilla, La Maddalena durante la bella stagione diventa la meta prediletta di chi vuole staccare la spina e dedicarsi al relax delle escursioni in barca, delle nuotate, della visita alle numerose calette o immergersi nella vita frizzante che la città offre con i suoi numerosi negozi, caffè e locali.
Cala Gavetta
Cala Gavetta, the face and the soul
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he natural inlet of Cala Gavetta is the historical harbour of La Maddalena and it’s also its “new heart”. It has been like that since 1779 when almost all the inhabitants moved from Collo Piano towards the natural harbour where the fishermen who started up the first wine stores coming back from their long journeys on the Royal ships. Part of their income was invested in the construction
of new houses and the purchase of the land. The owners of the cargo ships belonged to the most important social class. In the ’50s and ‘60s there were several trading activities. In the marketplace there were 16 different shops besides the fishermen’s stalls and there are more than sixty shops in Via XX Settembre and Via Garibaldi which are the true “shopping streets” of the city.
Piazza Garibaldi
Piazza Umberto I
Past and present
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he Diocesan Museum is near the harbour in the historical centre next to the St. Magdalene Church that deserves a visit. Among the other unmissable monuments there is the Garibaldi Column that was built on the 4th July 1907 and the Roberts Palace overlooking the sea that reminds of its ancient owners: Giuseppe Zicavo, a famous fighter from the island, the General Commander of Genoa’s harbour and Daniel Roberts, a sailor first
Diocesian Museum
then a Senior of the British navy as well as the Consul of the island. Some events which are related to popular traditions are quite interesting like the bonfires that are started on the 24th June during the San Giovanni nigh and the Whitsun, the Trinity celebrations in May or in June with the Marcia Longa, the Vespers, the solemn Mass, the procession then the big dinner with the music and the dance.
Stefy Morelli/Shutterstock.com
Summer carnival
Santa Maria Maddalena Parish
Porto Madonna
Stefy Morelli/Shutterstock.com
Strolling around the narrow streets and the little shops
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f you are staying in the village you can’t miss a stroll along the waterfront leaving from the harbour (maybe early in the morning when the fishermen’s ships are coming back) to see the buildings dating back to 1800, the Parish of ST. Magdalena and Cala Gavetta. If you are fond of shopping you can walk along the narrow streets that are spread with the tiny shops that sell handcrafted objects, boat supplies and clothes or you can also go shop-
ping in the crowded Garibaldi street or by the stalls before the harbour. The former workers area of Moneta is a really characteristic district, once the marketplace that is now laid in Umberto I square (or Comando square). A votive chapel, a cave with two openings with the following writing “Offer to the Most Holy body of Jesus for saving us from the bombing of 24-5-1943” have recently been found behind the former armory.
Valery Rokhin/Shutterstock.com
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Soup, fried fish and carasau bread
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ne of the most typical dish is the minestrĂš (vegetables soup) cooked by using only the season vegetables. The best vegetable soup is the one that is cooked in Spring when the variety of vegetables is wider compared to Winter. According to the traditional recipe the vegetable soup must be enriched with some minced bacon, the mint or marjoram, the garlic, the parsley and a lot of fresh basil cream that is added to the other ingredients. Another typical dish is the soup from
Gallura (or suppa cuata), that is well-known in the North of Sardinia but it was born in this area. The sheep broth, some minced pecorino cheese, fresh parsley and stale bread are its main ingredients. Then there is also the risotto with myrtle and the myrtle liquor that is home- made, the sausages or the little fried fish to be tasted with the carasau bread. On the holiday table the offal and the venison and the fish of the day are never missing and they are cooked in many different ways.
Testa del Polpo beach
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La Grotta restaurant
Luca Sartori
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he prince Karim Aga Khan used to number it among his favourite restaurants and it has been one of the favourite destinations in the last years in Sardinia. The restaurant La Grotta was born in 1958, it’s a real gem of La Maddalena. You can reach the place after sailing for around 15 minutes. You can pass by the Garibaldi column and Piazza XXII Febbraio then you go straight up for 50 metres onto via Principe di Napoli, a characteristic narrow stre-
et in the historical centre. Here in this little stretch of the Mediterranean Sea where the sun and the sea are the absolute protagonists Antonio and Concetta Barretta’s restaurant offers an historical Neapolitan cuisine; actually the owners are from Pozzuoli. It has been a top restaurant in the Costa Smeralda since the 1970s, it’s affordable for all types of customers and it offers fresh fish from the local area. It’s one of the oldest restaurants in the Gallura area and it has been awarded with several
International prizes. Many special dishes are there to be tasted from the fish appetizers to the starters and the fish main courses. The leading dish is the lobster in the Sette Otto (Seven Eight) way, there are many copies of this dish but the secret recipe is jealously kept by Ferdinando Barretta, Antonio’s nephew who has been protecting this tradition for 25 years now. It is Enzo, father of Ferdinando, the true pioneer who projects the restaurant at high levels riding the 70s, 80s and 90s; multifaceted en-
trepreneur and inventor of the sailing restaurant business since 1990 with the aid of a fishing boat, and then with the construction of his Ottava Isola, a 550 square meter catamaran designed for luxury events. From the varied menu the squids in the Lella way stand out, they are sweet and soar stewed with the white onion, the red beans and the mussels sauce then there is also a very good selection of raw fish in the King of Naples’ dish. Among the pasta dishes there are the linguine (a sort of big spaghetti) with the mussels or with cacio (cheese) and pepper, the paccheri (sort of maccheroni) with the grouper fish and the aubergines, the linguine (sort of spaghetti) from Gragnano with the lobster. Then the lobster in the Sette Otto way, the Boccaccio of Ferdinando (fish soup cooked in the water bath) and the sweets among which the pear with the cinnamon and the Vermentino with the pecorino cheese sauce as well as the mascarpone with the “semifreddo” of almonds and myrtle.
TreKking in Caprera Island
Sea birds, goats and boars
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he National Park of the archipelago of La Maddalena is one of the best loved and most visited places. The park was set up in 1996 and it includes the whole area of Maddalena as well as the surrounding ones and reaches the islands of Li Nibani and the Mortorio archipelago in the South. This area is featured by a slow tourism, you can watch more than 750 species of plants, bushes and animals among which the goats, the boars and the sea birds that come here to nest. We can
mention the seagulls, the storm birds, the migrating birds that cross the Bonifacio strait. The sea is inhabited by different species of Gorgonia or the Venus Sea Fan that have the typical shape of a fan and there are the tursiope (a kind of dolphin) on the surface too, they are sort of whales that prefer staying by the coastline compared to other types of whales. Many excursions are daily organized in the National Park of La Maddalena and you can also be supported by skilled guides.
duchy/Shutterstock.com
Hippocampus Guttulatus
Emilian Danaila/Shutterstock.com
Alexandra Suslova/Shutterstock.com
Cala Corsara D.Bond/Shutterstock.com
Beaches and pink secluded coves
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he island is surrounded by many tiny coves that are featured by the Mediterranean vegetation. On the Eastern side there is Cala Spalmatore set between two cliffs and protected from the wind, it is featured by a low seabed and a stream that is made by the typical pink rocks of this area. From the overlooking Guardia del Turco you can enjoy an amazing view of La Maddalena Island and Caprera. Cala Coticcio is on the Garibaldi island beyond the bridge of Moneta Pass, you can sail
there or you can walk for one hour along a track that leaves from Becco di Vela. On the Maddalena island there are more beaches that deserve a visit like Punta Tegge on the Southwestern side and the beach of Bassa TrinitĂ on the Northern side, it is protected by the cliff on the top of which there is the tiny church of the Trinity that was built soon after he occupation of the island in 1767 in the centre of the old village that was once inhabited by the Corse people.
Gianluigi Becciu/Shutterstock.com
Cala Coticcio D.Bond/Shutterstock.com
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An oasis of pleasure: the Ma&Ma Grand Hotel Resort Alessandra Boiardi
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he Ma&Ma Grand Hotel Resort has faced a big challenge by building a top-class hotel with a very low environmental impact on the Maddalena Island. Guests are the protagonist of this place that enhances and increases the benefits of the natural elements. The Grand Hotel Resort Ma&Ma offers a wide range of services among which the 24 hours reception, an internal and an external parking
area, the outdoor swimming-pool and a van that takes the guests to the historical centre and private luxury cars to reach all the airports. There are 106 rooms that are divided according to four different styles: Romantic, Fashion, Minimal, Casual. They are all equipped with a porch, the LCD tv, the air-conditioning, the minibar, the telephone, the wi-fi, the satin bed linen, the hairdryer, soft bathrobes, mar-
ble wide bathrooms with mosaics and the Ma&Ma courtesy set. There are also the brand new Family Suite with a sea and garden view and free access for pets. The restaurant “L’Antica Isola” offers tasty journeys to tease your senses. The dishes are all focused on the use of the local raw materials and the quality and the freshness of the products are the foundations of creativity that aims at renewing the traditional dishes thanks to the executive chef, Agostino Simeone. The MaMa Pizza was the news in 2018, it’s the typical restaurant where they make the pizza from Naples by using high quality products coming from Campania. It is set in a beau-
tiful location surrounded by the green and very big glass doors so it’s the perfect place for a tasty evening. The &SPA is a 8 square metres temple of well-being: it’s a deep sensory journey for the guests who are cherished by the skilled staff. There’s a Magnapool rich of magnesium and potassium salts, neck waterfalls, Finnish bio-sauna, the Turkish bath, the Technogym training area and the hairdresser.
Sailing along the pirates’ routes
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ailing is the best way to enjoy the island, you can also sail by on the ancient ships and set sail on the pirates’ routes or the Royal Navy’s ships belonging to the Baron Giorgio des Geneys and the Admiral Nelson. The ships with the Latin sail belong to a very old tradition and they are one the island’s prides. The most ancient ships with the Latin sail can be found here and they are used to take the tourists to the most beautiful places
Cala Napoletana
of the island, you can go on beautiful excursions, you can have lunch on the ships and you can taste the very good fish, the seafood and drink the wine from this area mainly the Vermentino from Gallura. If you want to learn sailing the you can go to the Caprera sailing centre, the historical sailing school that was founded by the Italian Naval Academy and the Italian Touring Club in 1967 where you can take classes to learn how to sail.
Arkady Zakharov/Shutterstock.com
Porto Massimo Agent Wolf/Shutterstock.com
Cycling, diving and horse-riding
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here are quite many cycle routes and tracks that leave from the National Park of La Maddalena. You can reach almost all the beaches and the panoramic points if you cycle along these routes like the Sanctuary of Madonnetta and the charming inlet of Cala Francese as well as Punta Abbatoggia, a little peninsula spread with amazing beaches. There are many diving centres on the island and they or-
In mountain bike sui sentieri di Caprera
ganize many excursions every day to discover the rich seabed. There are the reptiles, the underwater rocks and the Posidonia Oceanica meadows. If you like horse-riding you can choose the excursions organized by the horse-farm of the island and you can reach the military fortresses among which the Arbuticci stronghold that hosts a memorial dedicated to Garibaldi that watches La Maddalena from the top.
A cavallo sui sentieri di Caprera
Caccia Fotografica Carlo Puligheddu
Fortezza mimetizzata di Candeo
Our rocks for the World Heritage I Quasimodo
talo Innocenti has been searching for rocks since 1959, they aren’t common rocks, they are artworks shaped by nature and there are around 2000 pictures in his photographic Archive. There are several subjects belonging to the animal world or looking like famous people. There are snakes, bears, dogs, dinosaurs and eagles in his photobook as well as famous people like Garibaldi, Mussolini, Scalfaro and Camilleri just to make a few examples. He works together with some other professionals under the patronage of the group “Our Rocks for the World Heritage”
Smiling man face with Chinese eye
Heidi’s grandfather
The Extraterrestrial
The dinosaur sniffs
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Chapeau
e started working as a portrait photographer in 1954 like almost the most of photographers in those years. Then he became a landscape photographer and he has been making postcards for 60 years, these postcards have become historical along the years and they portray scenes from the life in Sardinia. He aims at continuing developing his project “Our Rocks for the World Heritage� together with a team of 150 people who are deeply fond of photographs.
La Maddalena
BACK TO THE SUMMARY
Cala Gavetta
MUNICIPALITY OF LA MADDALENA Olbia
Olbia-Tempio, Sardinia Inhabitants: 11233 Altitude: 27 m s.l.m. Surface area: 52.01 km² Patron saint: Santa Maria Maddalena
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Sassari, Sardinia
Alghero and the coral coastline: the treasures from Sardinia
Costa di Alghero Gabriele Maltinti/Shutterstock.com
Antonella Andretta
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Coral coastline near Bosa John_Walker/Shutterstock.com
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lghero is an amazing place. The ramparts dating back to the 16th century and the towers that surround the old village which is perched on a cliff are the reference points of 90 kilometres of the coral coastline and Alghero is the main landmark. Let’s start with the historical centre of this destination, the fifth in Sardinia and one the best loved because of a perfect match of old and new features, its nature and its culture, its accessibility not far from the airport of Fertilia as well as its top-quality food and wine. After you have passed over the Door
of the Sea you’ll get lost among the narrow streets and the paved squares many of which still have Catalan names. Actually Alghero has been a Spanish city for many centuries and the evidence of this civilization is still visible. There are the noble palaces and the churches, the cathedral dating back to the 16th century stands out, it’s one of the biggest churches in Sardinia as well as the church of San Michele which is featured by a multi-coloured dome dating back to the 16th century: the Baroque and Liberty details are also evident.
Centro storico di Alghero ArtMediaFactory/Shutterstock.com
The Aragonese towers and the beaches
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f you leave this labyrinth of vibrant narrow streets spread with restaurants, outdoor tables and tiny shops you’ll find yourselves on the Marco Polo Ramparts’ promenade. There’s an incredible view on the sea that reaches Capo Caccia from the top of this place. You can go to Torre della Polveriera and you can go up to the belvedere overlooking the harbour or reach the massive Torre dello Sperone. If you’ve got children with you can take a twenty-minutes ride on the Catalan Train that goes around the town centre leaving from the Sea
Overview of the historic center Italo Innocenti
Door. Alghero isn’t only an old town with its old historical centre, it’s a modern town with many facilities, a flourishing tourist harbour and a wide seafront area. There are many beaches too; the seaside resort of San Giovanni is close to the centre and there are also many other facilities outside the centre like the beach of Bombarde and the coves of Lazzaretto and on the Northern part of the coastline there is Porto Ferro and the Marina beach. We don’t have to underline that the water is clear blue, you are in Sardinia!
Gabriele Maltinti/Shutterstock.com
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Capo Caccia Promontory Italo Innocenti
Capo Caccia Gabriele Maltinti/Shutterstock.com
Mugoni beach Gabriele Maltinti/Shutterstock.com
Boat trips and visits to the caves
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et’s go back to the harbour: you can leave from the Garibaldi Docks and you sail along the Coral Riviera (the red coral is still worked by some very skilled craftsmen) or you can set off to the Neptune’s cave. This cave is 4 kilometres long but only one can be visited: 150.000 people go there each year to see the wonderful stalagmites and stalactites, the salt- lake and the room of the Palace. The view inside the cave is amazing as well as the 600 hundred steps that lead you to the entrance of the cave if you don’t
Neptune caves TrylMag/Shutterstock.com
want to sail there. It’s really hard to go up these steps but the view is unforgettable! If you are fit enough you can go up the cliffs of Capo Caccia and Porto Conte where you can’t miss the quiet Mugoni beach surrounded by the maritime pine trees. You can challenge yourselves by experiencing the different climbing and diving routes: The Nereo Cave is famous since it’s one of the biggest underwater caves in Europe and the Green Cave is famous too since it is an underwater archaeological site.
Neptune cave Italo Innocenti
Beach and Tower of Porto Piccolo Italo Innocenti
Archaeological site of the “Nuraghe Palmavera” sbellott/Shutterstock.com
sbellott/Shutterstock.com
An old Nuragic village
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y the way there are many archaeological sites in this area like the Roman Villa and the village of Sant’Imbenia (they can’t be visited) and the Roman findings of the bridge over the Calich pond. The Nuraghe Palmavera (10 kilometres away from Alghero towards Capo Caccia) and the Necropolis of Anghelu Ruju (near Fertilia airport) are the most famous and the easiest to reach and they can be visited by getting one ticket that very often also includes the tourist guide, we suggest this option (the sites are run by a private coope-
rative). The Nuragic complex is made of a central block with two towers and a village with around 50 bells, the most ancient buildings go back to the 15th century B.C. and new excavation works and restauration projects are being implemented right now in order to make this site even more interesting. The necropolis includes 38 domus de janas, the mysterious underground tombs made between 4200 and 1800 B.C. What’s better than some good tastes and some good wine after such a wide choice of cultural opportunities?
Marcin Krzyzak/Shutterstock.com
Archaeological site of the “Nuraghe Palmavera� sbellott/Shutterstock.com
Tower of Sulis, Alghero Marc Osborne/Shutterstock.com
Alessio Orru/Shutterstock.com
Finally a good lobster and some good sparkling wine
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ust opposite the necropolis along the provincial road 42 there is the Sella & Mosca estate. It was founded in 1899 and it stretches along an area of 650 hectares and 550 hectares are covered in vineyards. They produce some precious types of wine like the Vermentino, the Cannonau and some very good sparkling wines as well. You can go there throughout the whole year from Monday to Friday. It’s a really beautiful place, there is a wine shop and a little museum with a room that is dedicated to the excavations of the Anghelu Ruju necropolis that
was discovered in 1901 under the area of the above mentioned estate. The food is also interesting in the area of Alghero since the Spanish traditions have matched the local ones and the outcome has been the typical Catalan cuisine mainly the lobster from the local sea. In the “paella” the fregola which is a typical pasta made of durum wheat is used instead of rice and it is garnished with the seafood, the squids, the shrimps, the chicken, the sausages, the peppers, the peas, the saffron and a dusting of nutmeg. It’s the celebration of tastes.
Alghero
BAVK TO THE SUMMARY
Italo Innocenti
MUNICIPALITY OF ALGHERO Sassari, Sardinia Inhabitants: 43964 Altitude: 7 m s.l.m. Area: 225.4 km² Patron saint: San Michele Arcangelo
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South-Western Sicily, the wonders of nature and the masterpieces of the Baroque
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Cala Mazzo di Sciacca Roman Safonov/Shutterstock.com
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he coastline road between Agrigento and Trapani is not crossed by è huge number of tourists but it’s one of the most amazing areas of Sicily. Starting with Sciacca that combines its marine soul with the temper of an elegant lady. The view over the tiny coloured fishers’ houses is wonderful and a stroll in the historical centre is what you need to discover the aristocratic palaces, their stone doorways, their wrought iron balconies and the stunning Baroque churches mainly the Ma-
Sciacca poludziber/Shutterstock.com
trice church featured by charming vaults, the dome covered in multicoloured fine pottery and the chiselled rose window. In the meantime the blue sea is waiting in the horizon and the central Scandaliato square impresses you with its amazing terrace overlooking the infinite. After leaving the centre the pink beaches come towards you, on Capo San Marco beach you can even see the loggerhead sea turtles also called Caretta caretta that lay their eggs there.
Sciacca poludziber/Shutterstock.com
South-western coast of Sicily Andrew Mayovskyy/Shutterstock.com
The Turkish Steps: when the nature becomes a work of art
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rom Sciacca, if you go towards the East along the cost in a few minutes you will be welcomed by wonderful natural unspoilt charming landscapes starting with the Reserve of the Platani river’s mouth whose landscape looks like a painter’s palette: the golden sandy dunes, the green Mediterranean bushes, the white rocks and the different shades of blue from the river come together and they fall into the sea waves. A few kilometres far there’s another protected
area, the WWF Oasis of Torre Salsa where the sea has Caribbean shades of colours and the beaches are surrounded by chalk cliffs and a lush Mediterranean vegetation. The white cliffs introduce the star of this stretch of coastline, the Turkish Steps, a stunning bright blinding rocky wall that stands out near Realmonte: this view has been captured in many stories of Montalbano inspector, the huge smooth steps have been shaped and carved by the wind along the centuries.
Foce del Fiume Platani Nature Reserve Creative Travel Projects/Shutterstock.com
The beach of Montalbano and its house on the sea in “Marinella�, Puntasecca Francesca Sciarra/Shutterstock.com
Scala dei Turchi nikolpetr/Shutterstock.com
Beach leading to Marinella Roberto La Rosa/Shutterstock.com
Selinunte: temples with a sea view
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eaving from Sciacca and moving towards the West side you’ll pass by the nice beach of cobblestones of Bertolino and the very long one of Porto Palo which is equipped with beach facilities and restaurants where the blue sea gives way to the temples of Selinunte, a natural stage where the history of the human kind exhibits itself. This archaeological area is protected by Unesco and it’s one of the widest of Europe and the massive Doric columns tell about the ancient myths and the
legends that go back to the 7th century B.C. when Selinòn was a flourishing Greek colony. After visiting the archaeological site you can see the sunset from the mythical beach of Acropoli while the sun is slowly disappearing behind the temples. As an alternative you can sip your drink on the trendy beach of Scalo di Bruca, the core of the city’s nightlife or you can dive into the unspoilt nature of the Natural Reserve of the river Belice’s mouth and lie on its wonderful golden beach.
Ruins in Selinunte Stefano_Valeri/Shutterstock.com
From Mazara to Marsala: dancing paths and wind-mills
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f you move farther towards the Western side you’ll find Mazara del Vallo with its narrow streets in the historical centre and its Greek statue of the Dancing Satyr dating back to the 3rd century B.C. It was found in the sea by a fishing boat in 1998. Mazara is a place where you can also taste the well-known red shrimp, it is famous all over the world and it can be served in many different ways. You can taste it with the fish couscous, a typical dish of the area of Trapani. After a few kilometres the landscape is different once
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Mazara del Vallo Massimo Buonaiuto/Shutterstock.com
Natural Reserve of the “Saline dello Stagnone� Stefano_Valeri/Shutterstock.com
again and it’s an unexpected view: you are approaching the famous salt marshes of Marsala and the landscape is featured by piles of salt, pools of water and wind-mills while the island of Mozia is waiting in the distance, you can reach it by a motor vessel on a short crossing and you can have a walk in the nature surrounded by the findings of the ancient civilization.
Mazara del Vallo Stefano_Valeri/Shutterstock.com
Caltabellotta Giuseppe Parinisi/Shutterstock.com
The hinterland: ancient traditions
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his part of Sicily doesn’t only offer beautiful sea views, if you want to move towards the hinterland you will have the possibility to visit two unmissable villages rich of culture and traditions. Caltabellotta is a village that looks like a Nativity Scene, it is perched on the mountain’s peak at almost 1000 metres of altitude and it is surrounded by a Medieval atmosphere: The Norman church is really beautiful, it goes back to the 11th century. Besides the view and the historical village another good reason to visit this village
Sambuca di Sicilia Simone Padovani/Shutterstock.com
is tasting the famous ricotta cheese that is served in all the dairy farms that are spread in this area, it can be accompanied by the local wine, the home-made bread and the primosale cheese. On the other hand Sambuca is totally different, it’s an elegant Arab-Norman village featured by the noble palaces, the Baroque churches, the Renaissance courtyards and the Arabic towers that stand out by the narrow streets and the staircases. You’ll get lost into the several architectural details of this precious jewel.
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Sambuca di Sicilia Simone Padovani/Shutterstock.com
BACK TO THE SUMMARY
Sciacca Giuseppe Parinisi/Shutterstock.com
Carola Traverso Saibante
Cibo Nostrum, sea mouth’s watering
Elena Eryomenko/Shutterstock.com
Cibo Nostrum Qin Xie/Shutterstock.com
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lue sea, light blue Italy. Not only on the football pitches. In our country which is kissed by the waves of the sea the food specialities from the sea offer a wide range of tastes that share the touch of salted water. Starting with the anchovies that become a gourmet dressing even by using their “scrap liquids”: we are talking about the dripping of the anchovies, a Slow Food product of the charming village of Cetara along the Amalfi coast. You get it from the liquid that is produced when you cover the anchovies with the salt and it is used to give a sea touch to many recipes like the spaghetti with the garlic, the oil and the chili pepper. The cicciarelli are light blue as well
and the zerri from Noli where its old fishers’ cooperative is still active in Liguria are blue too. Fishers face the sea every day on their traditional boats called gozzi to do the “little fishing in the gulf of Noli” then they sell the fish on the sea shore. This type of traditional fishing that used the sciabica fishing net has been stopped and the fishing is now focused on different techniques and it is also aimed at fishing other types of fish like the zerri, a traditional food product that is usually pickled. The Fifth Maritime Republic is celebrated in June in its Medieval costumes: it’s a food festival that lasts three days and the fishers generally offer the fried fish to the locals and the tourists.
Cibo Nostrum
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Cibo Nostrum
Tasting islands T
he bluefish follows the seasons so in Lampedusa, the island within the island, they keep it covered in the olive oil and in the Mediterranean flavours: the chilli pepper, the garlic, the basil, the oregano, the fennel or the typical capers cream. In our issue dedicated to the sea we couldn’t help giving voice to our islands and their villages with their feet in the water and their hair of waves. Let’s move to the opposite side of the Country in the North on an island that is shaped by its amazing historical village: Burano, few stops from san Marco Square by ferry. In April and May in the lagoon the small green crabs lea-
ve their shelters, their shell and wander around “naked”, soft and tender waiting for a bigger shelter. So the expert fishers called the “moecante” catch them then they select the ones that are almost ready for their moulting and put them into the wooden boxes covered in salted water until they become “moeche”. It is a precious food that it’s perfect when it’s fried. The second moulting occurs in Autumn while at the end of Summer the female moeche are filled with eggs, the coral and they become “masanete”: they are boiled and seasoned with the oil, the lemon and they are served with the typical white polenta.
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Ponds, cottonwoods and gourmet specialties B
a piece of silver skin that is still attached to the two edges of their pockets. Let’s finally reach Molise specifically Termoli with its ancient village overlooking the sea. The dried mullets is the main specialty there, they don’t have to be longer than 5-6 centimetres. They must be manually gutted then they must be drained on wide canna baskets then they are laid on the wood in the sun. Afterwards they are collected and put into the poplar wooden boxes that are manually woven and they are finally hung under the roofs of the houses.
Cibo Nostrum
all in the centre: Sardinia. Cabras is a unique charming island that mirrors itself into the water of the pond full of fish that is what pears are for the farmers: the mentioned fish is the mullet. It is caught from May to September by using the “su pezzu”, a fishing net that is still measured by counting the steps. The bottarga comes from the female ovarian pockets of the mullet, it has an amber colour and it has been a top sea seasoning for three thousand years. The ones from Cabras that belong to the slow food organization are recognizable from a “nail” that is
Cibo Nostrum
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the Maldives of Italy
Apulia
Welcome to Salento,
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T
he comparison of the Salento area with the amazing atolls of the Indian Ocean is not risky at all: actually the “heel of the boot (Italy) is featured by two hundred kilometres of long sandy beaches and all the shades of the blue sea. If Marina di Pescoluse with its four kilometres of white sand is the symbol of the Maldives in the Salento area there are other amazing beaches in this part of Italy, they are all different and they are all charming
and attractive. Let’s make some examples: Torre dell’Orso featuring a sandy crescent between two white cliffs to guard the clear blue water; the group of tiny beaches and the caves of Poesia Grande and Poesia Piccola, the kingdom of divers and lovers of the clear blue sea then the beach of Torre Guaceto, a wild natural reserve which is protected by an old watchtower and the beach of Punta Prosciutto, a little Heaven.
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Ostuni: the white pearl
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he sea is certainly the protagonist of a journey to Salento and the villages overlooking the blue sea are the stage. The white Ostuni is one of these villages, a group of white houses and stone buildings perched on three hills a few kilometres away from the coast. The narrow streets of the historical centre disclose the noble palaces, the precious front-doors and the beautiful churches among which the Roman-Gothic cathedral stands out on the whole village. The white houses of Ostuni reminds the white co-
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lours of “trulli” of Alberobello half an hour far by car or the “cummerse” of Locorotondo, the high narrow houses with sloping roofs. They are two unique villages. If you go back towards the sea the beach of Torre Pozzella deserves a stop since it is spread with inlets surrounded by the Mediterranean vegetation: it’s a wild unspoilt beauty that is even more peculiar because of the many rainy water pits that emerge from the soil and a watchtower that is called “torre sgarrata” by the local people.
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Gallipoli: between the night life and the Baroque style
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he scenery changes according to the time of the day or according to the seasons and the village of Gallipoli is stretched like a ship’s bow on the Ionian Sea which is featured by the Caribbean blue colours and it’s surrounded by the city beaches that are generally overcrowded. Its paved streets are busy with the local people coming back from the street markets in the morning after they have bought the fish and the art and architecture lovers cross the historical centre in the afternoon
searching for the Baroque treasures. Gallipoli is a sea village where the night life is really vibrant thanks to its restaurants, locals and discos where you can stay until dawn. It’s much more than that. The massive castle that is coming out of the sea with its huge towers and the cathedral of Sant’Agata whose front side looks like a wonderful lace will take your breath away and you’ll be invited to discover the rest of the historical centre in a slow way to meet the beauty’s needs.
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tranto is the most Eastern edge of the peninsula and its name is related to the first Gothic novel of modern literature “The Castle of Otranto” by Horace Walpole. Although the novel is the result of the writer’s imagination and it’s quite difficult to recognize the beautiful little town actually Otranto has got a castle: it’s an Aragonese castle that dates back to the end of the 15th century and it has been turned into an exhibition centre nowadays where many exhibitions and cultural events are held. The history
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and the myths are mixed up on the beaches that surround the village mainly the hidden beach of Porto Badisco which is surrounded by the bushes of scented broom and by a deep blue sea when you start going farther from the shore: the legend goes that Aeneas, the mythical Virgil’s Trojan hero escaping from the town landed here while according to history some very ancient people had settled there and you can still see some graffiti in the cave of Deers which is considered “the Sistine Chapel of the Neolithic Age”.
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Santa Maria di Leuca: de finibus terrae
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t was the end of the known lands for the ancient people and the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea meet here where the dreams and the spirituality feature the landscape. The 47 metres high lighthouse, one of the biggest of Italy overlooks the sea villages where you can see some beautiful Liberty houses like Villa Episcopo whose light blue decorations are really beautiful, a few particular houses in the Moorish style like Villa Daniele, some gazebo in the Eastern style and the product of a fancy imagination like Villa La
Meridiana while the pilgrims crowd together in the cathedral of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrea overlooking the sea waves that come together in a metallic sound. Other buildings will catch your attention on the seafront, they are called “bagnarole�, they are little huts built a few metres from the sea shore where you can see the natural pools among the rocks where the sea arrives thanks to a tiny channel; once the women used to bath there far from the praying eyes and... the boiling sun!
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Luca Sartori
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Latina, Lazio
Sperlonga, the ancient Pearl of the Empire
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I
n Sperlonga the sun goes down in the sea. This amazing view fills your eyes very day in this tiny village of the Ulysses coastline on the Tyrrhenian Sea. This is the Pearl of the Southern edge of Lazio, it is perched on a cliff which is the extension of the Aurunci mountains. Its history is featured by many raids and plunders by the Saracen and the Turkish pirates but it is also a
place that was praised by the Romans because of its wonderful coast where Tiberius decided to build one of his residences. Sperlonga is a typical Medieval village where there are wonderful views and Ponza in the background. Curiosity is the engine of your visit since the tiny squares, the narrow streets, the staircases and the arches will impress your feelings.
Inlets and caves
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he rocky areas and the sandy tracts feature the most beautiful coastline of Lazio. The white sandy beaches meet the Tyrrhenian Sea and you can sail there. One of the most beautiful views along the Ulysses coastline is the Tiberius’ cave on the edge of the beach of the Angel where the findings of the ancient pools belonging to the Roman emperor are kept. Most of the treasures that have
View from the cave to the Villa of Tiberius Stefano_Valeri/Shutterstock.com
been found into the cave are kept in the Archaeological Museum of Sperlonga, mainly some sculptures related to the history of Ulysses. Sperlonga is mainly a sea destination that is strictly related to the seaside tourism. There are many facilities at the disposal of tourists and many boats leave from the docks every day towards the gulf of Gaeta as well as the archipelago of the islands around Ponza.
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Towers by the sea
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perlonga is also an interesting Archaeological site featured by many ancient towers. The church of Saint Mary represents a religious emergency, it had already been mentioned in 1135 while the archaeological heart is represented by the villa of the Roman Emperor Tiberius that is a widening of a previous house dating back to the Republican Age. You can still see the ancient rooms that were arranged around a courtyard with
Villa of Tiberius, Roman ruins near Sperlonga Stefano_Valeri/Shutterstock.com
porches where the furnace and the service spaces were located. Sperlonga is also spread with sighting towers that were built in the 16th century. The main tower is surrounded by other towers among which the Truglia Tower dating back to the 16th century that is set on the edge of the cliff, the Nibbio Tower that is a portion of a castle and the Capovento tower which is three kilometres far from the village.
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White arch in Sperlonga beach Buffy1982/Shutterstock.com
Sand and freshwater
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perlonga is also called the Pearl of the Flacca route, it’s considered one of the most beautiful villages of Italy and one of the most charming sea places along the Tyrrhenian coastline. The village, the culture, the ancient findings, the sea and the beaches are the protagonist of this area. Canzatora is a beautiful sandy beach where the families with children like going. Fontana beach is convenient and it’s near the village so it is the
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favourite beach of the village’s inhabitants while the little beach next to the Tiberius cave is an exciting beautiful beach. Salette is a long sandy beach and the water is clean and clear. There are also two freshwater lakes, lake Lungo and lake San Puoto that are close to the beaches: the first one is quite fishy and it’s in the area of Sperlonga and the second one belongs to the area of Fondi and it’s less fishy than the first one.
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Celery and sardine
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perlonga matches the sea activities with agriculture that is an important feature of Southern Lazio. There are many typical products belonging to this area. Sperlonga is famous for its white celery that is one of the main local products that grows in the lands of Fondi e Sperlonga, it’s an IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) product. It is cultivated in soils that have a high salt con-
tent that gives the white celery from Sperlonga a sweet aromatic taste so it can be used in many different ways, in the marinade or with the bluefish while its leaves are used to make the soups and to season the meat. There are also other traditional dishes in this area like the bean soup, the fish soup, the spaghetti with oysters and the bombolotti (a type of pasta) with the cuttlefish sauce.
Sleeping, tasting, buying
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he sea, the nature, the art and the history are the pieces of the charming mosaic of Sperlonga, the special terrace on the archipelago of Pontine islands. It’s a beautiful sea destination between Rome and Naples and it’s featured by some famous hotels like the hotel Aurora with its classical rooms, the junior suite and the suite. The special rooms called “the sea roses” look out on the Tyrrhenian Sea and they are equipped with a panoramic terrace with a view on the sea and the old village. The Grand Hotel Virgilio is near the beaches and the historical centre and it is equipped with the Bohème room under the roof, the Standard rooms with a king-size bed and a little terrace, the Superior ones with a little equipped terrace with a table and armchairs and the Executive room which is bigger and it’s perfect for families. On the Western beach near the central Piazza Fontana there is the historical hotel La Sirenella which has forty rooms and shady terraces looking out on the seafront. The restaurant Gli Archi is one of the historical destinations
of the gourmet tourists, it offers the spaghetti with the clams, the linguine with the local shellfish, the maccheroni with meat or cattle fish sauce and the fish soup. The restaurant L’Angolo is by the beach, you can eat the yellow paccheri (type of maccheroni) with fresh sardine, olives, capers and the yellow tomatoes from Cilento, the fried fish, the soups and the roast meat or fish. The restaurant Tramonto is by the sea too, you can eat the tuna caprese salad, the steam cuttlefish, the ravioli filled with the codfish, the clams, the brill with the buffalo mozzarella cheese served with potatoes and fried vegetables. At the restaurant La Lanterna which is located in the lower part of the village the cuisine is typical from Lazio and you can taste delicious sweets as well. If you want to buy a souvenir from this place you can’t miss a stop at the Artigiani dello Strame (The craftsmen of stream) where you can buy some beautiful handcraft products made by using this peculiar threadlike smooth herb that grows up in Southern Lazio.
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Sperlonga
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MUNICIPALITY OF SPERLONGA Latina, Lazio Inhabitants: 3244 Altitude: 55 m s.l.m. Area: 19.49 km² Patron saint: San Leone Magno e San Rocco
ROMA
Latina
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Greece,,
a sea un of mare classics di classici and surprises e di sorprese
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Marino Pagano
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ur journey starts from a charming route along the famous islands of the Ionic archipelago. Corfu is one of the most famous ones because of its sandy beach, the tiny villages that look out on the sea waves and the lines of tall olive trees. It’s an island that combines the past and the present. This is the area of the Ionian Islands (Corfu, Paxi, Lefkada, Kefalonia, Ithaca, Zante and Kithira), the second biggest island after Kefalonia. Corfu is a mountain and jagged island that puts together the tourist
Kerkyra, capital of the island of Corfu Oleg Voronische/Shutterstock.com
comfort and the unspoilt landscapes. There are facilities and nature: there’s everything you may need. The typical hospitability of its inhabitants is unique. There’s a lush vegetation thanks to the Winter rain. The old city, belonging to the Unesco heritage tells a lot about its past mainly from the Byzantine Age that was an important historical period for these lands. It also became part of the principality of Taranto, that’s why the islands is still so bound to this town from Puglia.
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Lefkada, the relaxing island
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et’s stay in the same wonderful group of islands. Lefkada is never overcrowded and it’s spoilt in many areas. Anyway, you can find everything in this land spread between the amazing landscapes and the modern times. Nidri deserves a visit, it’s not so tiny but it’s really nice (the ferry to Ithaca leaves from here). The Western side of Agios Nikitas is really charming and Vassiliki and Paros can’t be set aside. The be-
aches are very often the heaven of loneliness. Let’s think to Porto Katziki featured by a Caribbean sea: there are equipped facilities and the prices are quite high. It’s the perfect place if you want to relax and taste the typical cuisine. It is not very crowded, it’s easy to get to know each other and you can really relax. It’s a good place for families; it is called Leuca in Italian. Santa Maura is its old Venetian name.
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Skiathos, the “golden island” of Sporades
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et’s go to Skiathos now, a tiny island of the Aegean Sea in the archipelago of Sporades. There are golden sandy beaches, pine forests and a mild climate, not too hot because of the wind that constantly blows. Next to this island there are other beautiful little ones: Arkos, Aspronisi, Maragos, Tsougriaki and Troulonisi. There are tiny shops and narrow streets in Skiathos and it is also a tasty place: the nightlife is a landmark here thanks to its famous discos. It’s a
small island but it has become more and more popular with tourists and it also has an International airport. The coastline is 50 kilometres long, it is loved by painters and photographs from all over the world. Its natural beauty is evident mainly along the beach of Koukounaries which is very popular in Summer. Lalaria is a more remote beach, it can be reached only by boat. It’s a quiet place where you can see beautiful views in complete peace.
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Tilos, beautiful and “spiritual”
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et’s move to Tilos, known as Piscopi in Italian in the archipelago of Dodecanese in the Aegean Sea. Silence, beauty, prayer. There are many reasons to highlight the charme of this island. There are few inhabitants, around five hundred (they multiply in Summer). It is set between Kos and Rodi, two very well-known and very popular islands. Tilos is a tiny island with many famous castles that are particularly loved by the history of architecture lovers.
Here is a list of them: Megálo Chorió, Mesariá, Starroú Làmbrou, Agrosikiá and Mikró Chorió. The monastery of Àgios Pandeleímon is well-known took, it keeps a religious and spiritual mood. So the many beautiful beaches and the many works of art offer amazing views that are perfect for the photographers and the ones who are keen on beauty. This island can be easily reached from the surrounding harbours and it’s cheaper than the other Greek places.
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Ikaria Tom Jastram/Shutterstock.com
Seychelles beach, Ikaria Tom Jastram/Shutterstock.com
Crossborder: Greece Ikaria, beauty and myth
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ur last stop is in Ikaria, it’s really one of the most beautiful Greek islands, it is set in the Central-Eastern side of the Aegean See. The origin of its name comes from the mythical character Icarus: it sounds that this is where he felt from flying. Who knows! From its mountain area it offers unique landscapes. The main town is Agios Kirikos, there is a harbour and the healing Thermal Baths of Asclepious, the Odeon of Oenoes and the old castle of Ko-
Ikaria Vasilis_Liappis/Shutterstock.com
shina. On the Northern side of the island there are the ancient Greek temples (Artemis is near Nas, for instance). Wonderful beaches of course: the so-called Seychelles Beach is really exciting and the Karkinagri one too. The beach of nudists is famous too and it is set in Nas. It’s equipped with an airport which is directly connected with Athens, it’s not really famous for its nightlife but there are many restaurants where you can taste the traditional food.
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Antonella Andretta
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e c a l p out of
S Y A D HOLI
The other mountain
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hich is the right alternative if you don’t want to have anything to do with the beaches, the mixed fried fish and the catchy popular Summer songs? The answer seems to be a nice holiday in the mountains to enjoy the wide range of options besides the hiking trips and the mountain bikes.
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et’s mention a few examples, we can start with the Orobic Alps in Lombardy namely the Brembana valley: in the area of the tiny Bàresi (Bergamo) there’s a mill that dates back to the 16th century that has been acquired by FAI (Italian Environment Fund) in 2005 because of its historical, ethnographic and anthropological value also considering that there are many findings belonging to a number of very ancient settlements. This mill still keeps an old press for squeezing nuts in a beautiful landscape. Guided tours of the mill are regularly organized
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The other mountain
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and the outdoor area is free. The whole Brembana valley is spread with historical walking tracks like the Strada Taverna, the Mercatorum route, the steel route, the Priula, the path of Altoserio and the smugglers route. You can’t miss a visit of Cornello del Tasso, a perfectly kept village that is set along the Mercatorum route (info about the Baresi mill can be found on the FAI’s website). Let’s move to Veneto where Hoga Zait, the Cimbro Festival is held each year on the Asiago highland to promote the traditional local culture. It’s scheduled from 11th to
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The other mountain
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The other mountain
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19th July this year and it’s an unmissable gathering if you want to help supporting the old local culture: the Cimbri were people of German or Celtic origin that settled in this area around the year 1000 searching for arable lands. The festival starts with the traditional good luck fires organized by the municipality of Roana (Vicenza) and its tiny surrounding villages and districts (Camporovere, Canove, Mezzaselva, Treschè Conca and Cesuna) where many shows, historical exhibitions and concerts are always organized. Let’s move to Tuscany in the province of Siena, an area that sounds perfect to
go horse-riding along the Amiata horse route: it’s dedicated to skilled horse riders and it offers some stops along two different routes. The first one is 30 kilometres long and it’s perfect in Summer, it goes up to 1.250 metres through the chestnuts trees forests in the area of Vivo d’Orcia and Pescina; the second one is 80 kilometres long and it’s divided into four stops, it’s sunnier and it goes through different places among which the Abbadia San Salvatore. In both cases the stops are spotted with farmhouses and horse shelters. The horse farms for beginner horse riders who like going
The other mountain
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The other mountain
on short daily excursions aren’t missing. Let’s move towards the South mainly in Calabria to see the unique view of the Giants of Sila, the massive trees that are 45 metres high, they have a two metres wide trunk and they are 350 years old. In the forest there are sixty pine trees and mountain maple trees, it was created in the 17th century and it was afterwards given to the FAI that in charge with protecting this area and show it to the visitors and tourists. You can drive there from Croce di Magara (Cosenza) but you have to walk along the last part of the route. The last stop is in Sardinia, a region that is generally matched with the
sea but it also has amazing forests and mountains in the hinterland. Tiscali is one of the best-known walking destinations, it’s a nuragic archaeological area (maybe it had been inhabited until the Middle Ages) set inside a big cave whose cover fell down. It takes three hours to cross this wild environment and if you like you can also get in touch with the guides of Oliena (Nuoro) which is the nearest village. The whole area is spread with wonderful places like the source of Gologone, a national monument featured by deep green water with a mysterious bottom. You can drive there quite easily.
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The other mountain
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Jean (Hans) Arp, Overturned Blue Shoe with Two Heels under a Black Vault, 1925 c. Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice. Jean Arp Š by SIAE 2019.
13.04 / 02.09.2019 The exhibition is organized by the Nasher Sculpture Center
With the support of Institutional Patrons EFG Lavazza
Generous support for The Nature of Arp is provided by the National Endowment for the Arts Swiss Arts Council Pro Helvetia
The exhibition is made possible by
With the support of
Public Programs are made possible by Fondazione Araldi Guinetti, Vaduz
Dorsoduro 701, 30123 Venezia
guggenheim-venice.it
Loving‌ with art Nicoletta Toffano
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For information on this heading: Assoarte Promozione AttivitĂ Artistiche Maurizio Bevilacqua direzione@assoadriatica.it facebook.com/assoarte.promozioneattivitaartistiche/
Marco Manzella Finzione -2007
Loving…with art
Mona Lisa Tina Anthozoa
F
ive artists like the islands of the same archipelago, so close yet so different. The sea is always the protagonist. The sea in your mind and the sea in your blood, the sea in the works of art and the sea in your life. The sea on you so in the first island the coral is melted with the body and it’s changed through the photography and a process of continuous psychological and physical metamorphosis. Mona Lisa Tina (Francavilla Fontana, 1977)
with her Anthozoa at the M.A.P. of Brindisi offers the images that go through the myth according to which the marine plants turn into corals when they touch the gorgon’s blood and the water lilies approach to adorn themselves. The artist reproduces the meeting between the gentle corals and the harsh horror of the gorgon to show herself, her naked and turned body thus causing a deep reaction from the observers.
Loving‌with art
Mona Lisa Tina Anthozoa
Loving‌with art
Mona Lisa Tina Anthozoa
Loving‌with art
Mona Lisa Tina Anthozoa
Loving‌with art Marco Manzella Spiaggia X – 2015
The solid Sea
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he second Island is by Marco Manzella (Livorno, 1962). It’s the story of a solid sea, a light blue linoleum that the artist can keep and control by perfectly framing it in a picture. It’s an island represented by a series of images that explore the relationship between the human characters and the landscape: there are the divers, the bathers, the families on the beach surrounded by other sea images. The sea is
a logical consequence but it’s not taken from granted according to the artist who was born with the horizon line in his eyes and he’s now working between Viareggio and Livorno. Manzella creates his own mythology of characters by this endless sea and his sea landscapes set the balance between the characters and the space according to the golden rule longing for a better world.
Marco Manzella Spiaggia XI – 2015
Loving…with art
Loving‌with art
Marco Manzella Pontile – 2016
Loving…with art
Marco Manzella L’opportuna relazione tra le parti (II) – 2010
Loving…with art
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et’s reach the third island where the sea by Gamal Meleka (Cairo, Egypt) welcomes us. It’s a craved sea that is melted with the vessels and with the sky, the sea is painted in a very original way, the ships at berth and the sails that fly in the wind are represented by means of a technique that goes straight to the point, a mix of gestures and vision.
Through his constant search for expression the artist uses a particular type of golden resin in order to reach a free artistic expression that doesn’t aim at being a simple decorative element. Gamal has become one of the most aknowledged artists along the years and he has been appreciated and awarded in many different Italian cities.
Loving…with art
Flashes
Loving…with art
Loving…with art
Loving…with art
The pro of of the existence
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he fourth Island is suspended in a charming enigma It’s the Island by Domenico Purificato (Fondi 1915 – Rome 1984) in front of which you are overwhelmed by full wonder. It’s the sea close to the artist’s birthplace. His works meet your sight in a gentle way, with love, they look
Domenico Purificato Cacciatori sul lago di Fondi – 1964
like a very soft skin. They hide a strong resistant frame behind this tenderness and they can’t be worn out by time. The human characters are always quiet, they naturally show their love for life thus producing some sort of comprehensive painting from which these values clearly appear.
Domenico Purificato Affresco nella sala del consiglio del Comune di Sperlonga: Grotta di Tiberio - 1959
Loving‌with art
Loving…with art Domenico Purificato Fidanzati e gabbiani – 1963
Domenico Purificato Paesaggio di Gaeta – 1959
Loving‌with art
Domenico Purificato Famiglia sulla spiaggia – 1978
Loving‌with art
Giuseppe de’ Spagnolis Turning the key - 1985
The things of music
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ur journey is coming to an end: it’s the fifth island. It’s the sea by Giuseppe de’ Spagnolis (Sora, 1943), it’s a memory that puts together the sea waves and the music waves. A concept that is clearly visible if you visit the artist’s personal exhibition “The things of music” which is the outcome of a conciliation between the things that have been seen and heard on a deep total
journey into the music. So the landscapes have got their own voice, the lines are active and alive, the secondary lines mix up with the rhythm of the acoustic vibrations. It’s a sensory relationship between the surface and the lines whose combination produces some geometrical expressions. Centripetal and centrifugal impulses that give birth to the basic shapes of the artist’s works.
Loving…with art
Domenico Purificato Chiave di violino - 2016
Loving‌with art
Giuseppe de’ Spagnolis Sinestesismo del moto ondoso - 2009
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Loving…with art
Giuseppe de’ Spagnolis Pizzicato - 1987
Ivan Pisoni
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Legends by the sea
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Leggends by the sea
The legend of the island of Women W
hy the Sicilian people might have called the tiny island off the coast of Palermo “the Island of Women”? Pliny the Younger believed that many beautiful girls lived on the island and he thought they used to offer themselves to the winners of the epical deeds. The Earl of Capaci locked up a beautiful girl on the island since she didn’t return his love so during her imprisonment she threw herself on the rocks. Another legend goes that thirteen Turkish girls hid themselves on the island after they had been
Isola delle Femmine, Sicilia Vinciber/Shutterstock.com
drifted away and seriously blamed. The thirteen women had lived there for seven years until their remorseful relatives got them back. Back to the mainland they founded the village of Capaci (from the Arabic Cca-paci = the peace is here). Someone also thinks that this name may come from “insula fimi” or “isola di Eufemio”, the General of Messina, the Byzantine governor of Sicily. You can choose your favourite story. One thing is sure, this amazing place radiates the charm of Sicilian women… a total female charm.
Isola di Pianosa, Toscana Claudiovidri/Shutterstock.com
The birth of the seven precious stones of the Tyrrhenian Sea th to seven wonderful islands: Elba, Giglio, Capraia, Montecristo, Pianosa, Giannutri and Gorgona. The fallen precious stones turned the rocks into the other little islands that surround the seven precious jewels of the Tyrrhenian sea.
Leggends by the sea
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he beautiful Venus was so careless! She fell for Eros and while she was rushing to reach him she stumbled down and she broke the necklace around her neck and the seven precious stones fell into the water. These sacred precious stones gave bir-
Leggends by the sea
Edificio storico nel villaggio di Tellaro, Liguria poludziber/Shutterstock.com
The legend of the bell-ringer octopus of Tellaro O
n a dark stormy night Tellaro, a district of Lerici and a stronghold of Barbazzano was challenged by the most fearsome pirate Gallo d’Arenzano. The cunning sailor chose the best night to fulfil his criminal purpose. No-one could imagine an attack from the sea because of the very bad weather. No-one could alarm by ringing the bells of
the church of San Giorgio that is still overlooking the coast. The crooks had almost reached the coast when the bell started to ring the alarm from the top of the tower-bell. The village’s inhabitants rushed in defence of the place and they could get the better of the enemy but they were very surprised when they realized that no-one had rung the bell, a
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giant octopus had stretched one of its tentacles towards the bell’s rope thus making the bell ring. As a result the big octopus became the symbol of the village and an inscription was dedicated
Leggends by the sea
Tellaro, Liguria unknown1861/Shutterstock.com
to it on the church wall “Saraceni mare nostrum infestantes sunt noctu profligati quod polipus aer cirris suis sacrum pulsabat” but it’s ironically a local delicacy too... isn’t it?
Ivan Pisoni
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Did you know that...
Mila Demidova/Shutterstock.com
Stacey Newman/Shutterstock.com
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he Italian Ventotene Island is among the 10 tiniest islands in the world. According to the website genteinviaggio.it, this tiny Island near Ponza that is inhabited by around 750 people became famous because of the “Ventotene Manifesto ”, written by Altero Spinelli, Ernesto Rossi and Eugenio Colorni who were fervent opposers of the fascist regime and asked for the European Union in 1941.
Cala Nave beach, Ventotene DinoPh/Shutterstock.com
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he game of marbles tracks on the sand is called Cheecoting, it’s one of the most traditional beaches competitions and there’s a real championship. the Cheecoting was born at the beginning of last century and it’s related to the history of the seaside tourism. It was very popular around the 1960s then it almost disappeared between the 1980s and the 1990s. The origin of this word is quite uncertain but it has become a media phenomenon in the last years and it gives its name to the most important event related to this “sport” that is held in Rimini each year.
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Did you know that... in the sea...
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e really have some sort of strange fish in the Adriatic Sea! Any examples? The anchovy that approaches the shore to reproduce, it lays up to forty thousand eggs! The eel that stands still in the mud during the day then it becomes a dangerous predator at night. Its reproduction is a mystery (in the mud or elsewhere………who knows?).The branzino is a predator too, it prefers living in a group when it’s young but it becomes a lonely fish when it gets older. The plaice sounds being a voracious carnivorous fish. We can end our list with the shrimps that mainly eat sea boneless worms!
bigliedaspiaggia.it
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S
Max Topchii/Shutterstock.com
wimming makes you happy. It’s scientifically proved that swimming can relieve your stress and can also make you happier. When you swim you produce endorphins that are chemical substances coming from the brain that can relieve your pains as well as having some exciting effects. Swimming provides the needed energy to face your daily routine and not just that. The production of endorphins helps you bear pains in a better way, it regulates your period, it helps controlling your appetite, it helps the temperature control, it helps you feel better after making love and it also regulates your sleep.Swimming can give you all that. Then if you swim in the sea...
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he Mediterranean Sea is one of the saltiest seas of the planet. According to the data that have been gathered by Aquarius, one of the Nasa’s satellite tools related to the scientific applications that checks the salinity of the seas all lover the world and carries out three-thousand measurements to check the seasonal changes it sounds that the Mediterranean Sea is one the saltiest. Despite what we may think the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean are not so “savory”.
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Beach of the two sisters, Parco del Conero Luigi Morbidelli/Shutterstock.com
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Did you know that... in the sea...
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he ten best ranked beaches in Italy in 2019 according to SkyScanner: in tenth place there’s the Lido di Pietragrande in Montauro (Cosenza, Calabria), in the ninth place the beach of Sabaudia (Latina, Lazio), in the eight place there’s Punta Chiappa in Camogli (Genoa, Liguria) straight followed by La Gravara beach in Barrea (Aquila, Abruzzo) which is immediately followed by the Erica valley’s beach in Santa Teresa di Gallura (Olbia-Tempio, Sardegna), in the fifth place there is Cala del Bue Marino in San Vito Lo Capo (Trapani, Sicilia) then in the fourth place there’s the beach of Cala Spalmatore on the Maddalena Island (Olbia-Tempo, Sardegna). On the top of the list there are Punta Prosciutto in Porto Cesareo (Lecce, Puglia) in the third place followed by the Baia del Buon Dormire (the good sleeping cove) in Palinuro (Salerno, Campania) in the second place while the winner is the Spiaggia delle due sorelle (the beach of the two sisters) in Sirolo (Ancona, Marche). What a thrilling matter!
Review Il mare dove non si tocca
(The deep sea) di Fabio Genovesi
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his is an exciting novel like the sea and like the waves. Wincing striking waves. This well-written novel by Fabio Genovesi represents his authentic style. It was published by Mondadori and it has soon become a best-seller and its core theme is childhood. It’s our free, fragile, little age when we run in the wind, we walk without a destination, we play in the street, we travel around and we are overcome by feelings of full freedom and happiness. The sea perfectly represents all these feelings: the sea that was the protagonist of many poets, novelists, musicians and photographers, not to mention
the most inspired scientists, the biologists, the ethologists. And what about the historians? And the marine archaeologists too: the sea is a source of never-ending wanders, an extraordinary heritage of comprehensive knowledge. The sea is the mystery and the beauty as well as the death and the tragedy. We have been the witnesses of decades of desperate migration waves of people towards the Mediterranean Sea that has even been called “the sea of death”. Fabio is the protagonist of this novel set in the province of Lucca between the countryside and the beaches of Versilia (Genovesi is from Forte dei Marmi). When Fabio is six he knows very little about the other kids’ world, he is disputed between his old uncle and aunt and he’s lost in many different activities like travelling, going hunting or going fishing. It’s a sort of stolen childhood that is soon given to the adults’ facts. It’s a story that perfectly sticks to the most classical coming-of-age novels where the protagonist is growing up and he’s facing the changes of life starting with the
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Marino Pagano
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by a poetical, insightful, reasoned style that implies the use of lyrical, plain words. It is set at the beginning of the 1980s, it shows some imaginative sceneries and a young growing mind that is impressed by the wonders of life. The sea is in the background, a boy on his bicycle is looking at it while the “wind is stealing his tears�.
Review
youngest and the most innocent age. It is also a story of ancient rituals and alleged curses, foolish and strange actions. It may sound hilarious but it is actually a serious matter that makes you think and touches your heart. The story also focuses on the difficult relationship between the young boy and his father. The writing is featured
