The International Issue by Edible Northeast Florida

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

ISSUE THREE | January-February 2016

INTER NATIONA L M A R K ETS • A TASTE OF HOME • 50 SH A DES OF GR EEN • THE WOR LD ON YOUR PL ATE

Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season

No. 3 Januar y-Februar y 2016

Member of Edible Communities

There’s living. And there’s loving life. We’re here to help with the second one. Our intriguing blends of herbs and botanicals support energy, stamina, focus, and overall

well-being. Cup after cup, day after day, life is good.

DEPARTMENTS 2

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

CONTRIBUTORS

EDIBLE INNOVATORS Enchanted Food Forest

EDIBLE TABLE What’s In Season

14 SEASONAL PLATE Hog Snapper and Rock Lobster Tortellini Wahoo Crudo Cream Cheese Gnudi

Contents

LOCAL LIBATIONS A Nest for Odd Birds

GROWING THE GOOD LIFE The Super Tree

43 FROM THE OVEN Citrus and Strawberry Pavlova Empanadas 47

LAST BITE Off the Line

FEATURES 8

SEEKING REFUGE AT THE TABLE

HING JEERA PEANUTS, BOURBON BISCUITS AND SNAKEHEAD FISH

27 INTERNATIONAL MARKET GUIDE A Food Finder’s Guide to Selective Sampling 35

50 SHADES OF GREEN There’s a world of vegetables waiting just outside your comfort zone.

23 BACK OF THE HOUSE Beach Fare with International Flair 30

EDIBLE DIY Crazy for Curry ?

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Jan/Feb 2016

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Greetings and welcome to the New Year. While I don’t typically make resolutions, after pulling this issue together, I may have found a pledge that will be easy to stick with and improve my culinary repertoire as well. In 2016, I am determined to really think global and eat local, trying a new type of cuisine every month. Based on content we have curated for this month’s International issue, I’m more than sure my resolution is achievable. The cultural make-up of our region has flavored our food scene and is providing culinary inspiration well beyond our traditional Southern dishes. What is driving this expansion of food choices in Northeast Florida? Intrepid travel, our region’s experimental chefs, increasing curiosity in the world, perhaps. Over the years, the area has become home to transplants from many parts of the world, either by choice or by chance. From Afghanistan to the Philippines, India to Ethiopia, Colombia to Cuba, new residents have all come to call the First Coast home, while maintaining a connection to their cuisines and ties to their origins. Along with welcoming new arrivals to the region, we have also embraced their culinary traditions, and added them to our own. Additionally, many in our community have had the good fortune to travel around the world, and often seek to re-create favorite food memories upon their return. This issue provides a glimpse into how local restaurants and food markets are supporting the transition of refugees and helping them adjust to their new home. We also explore a sampling of international grocery stores in the area, highlighting products that may introduce new flavors to your daily menu. Wonder what some of those exotic looking vegetables are at the markets? We go out into the field to learn how local farmers are expanding the variety of produce grown and incorporating international produce. Curious about curry or sorting through your spice rack? We have some tips to help de-mystify unfamiliar ingredients. As James Beard once said, “Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” We hope you use this issue as a springboard to new taste sensations in Northeast Florida. Make a date to try that international restaurant down the way. Take a tour of an international market near you. I am pretty confident I will be able to stick to my resolution for 2016, and hopefully make new acquaintances along the way. Bon appétit.

PUBLISHER Amy Robb amy@edibleneflorida.com EDITOR Lauren Titus lauren@edibleneflorida.com COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson DESIGN Matthew Freeman PHOTOGRAPHY Jenna Alexander, Sarah Annay, Kelly Conway, Stefanie Keeler, Amanda Lenhardt, Kristen Penoyer, Amy Robb CONTRIBUTORS Ashley Amin, Matthew Brown, Jay Burnett, Gaston Buschiazzo, Jen Hand, Nan Kavanaugh, Howard Kirk, Calli Marie, Brenna Noel Martin, Brian Moore, Greg Parlier, Ryan Ruffell SUBSCRIBE Edible Northeast Florida is published 6 times per year by Slidetray Media LLC. Subscriptions are $28 and available at edibleneflorida.com. FIND US ONLINE EdibleNEFlorida.com facebook.com/edibleneflorida instagram.com/edibleneflorida twitter.com/edibleneflorida pinterest.com/edibleneflorida CONTACT US Have a story you'd like to see featured in Edible Northeast Florida? Send us your ideas! editor@edibleneflorida.com Edible Northeast Florida 24 Cathedral Place, Suite 406 St. Augustine, FL 32084 p. 904-494-8281 No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. © 2016 Slidetray Media LLC. All rights reserved.

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Jenna Alexander

Stefanie Keeler

Sarah Annay

Matthew Brown

Telling a story through pictures, no matter the medium, has always been Jenna’s thing. She is a photographer, illustrator and painter, currently working out of her studio in St. Augustine. She is drawn to natural light and airy images, and white is her favorite color.

Born and raised in Miami Beach, Florida, Stefanie is now a junior, working on her BFA (with a concentration in photography) at Jacksonville University. In between shooting weddings and eating locally, she is a selftaught fiber artist and loves exploring Jacksonville.

Sarah, a full-time wedding photographer, splits her time between Florida, Vermont and most recently Kolkata, India—where she teaches empowering photography workshops to women. Sarah, raised in Vermont, made St. Augustine home after graduation from Flagler College, where she earned her degrees in journalism and sociology and could never imagine spending 6 months in the snow again.

A self-taught chef and a native of Jacksonville, Matthew honed his culinary expertise at One Ocean resort. Currently he is the Executive chef at Collage restaurant, which has been recently awarded top 100 restaurants in the nation by Opentable.com. Matthew also serves as Executive chef at Blackfly restaurant as well as chef consultant to Rype and Readi farms (Elkton, FL.) and Blackfly lodge in the Abacos Islands

Nan K avanaugh

Brian Moore & Howard Kirk

Amanda Lenhardt

Calli Marie

Amanda is a freelance photographer, a once Northwest native who calls Florida home for the time being. With a love for visual storytelling, she has spent the last two years creating a business to help showcase the lives of others. She earned her bachelor’s degree in Fine Art with an emphasis in Photography from the University of North Florida is 2013.

With a passion for making people happy with the sweeter things in life, Calli has made serious waves in the Jacksonville food scene during her five short years as a professional baker. She currently manages the food program for BREW Five Points where she develops delicious weekly specials to complement specialty coffee and craft beer.

Nan is a writer, editor and mother of two. With a family heritage in Northeast Florida that stretches back over a century, she focuses her work on exploring the cultures of our region with a special appreciation for the unique.

Jan/Feb 2016

Howard and his sous chef Brian Moore are both rooted in traditional Mediterranean cuisine with strong ties to Spain and Italy. They proudly make all pasta, bread, cheese, cured meats and more in-house by hand, every day at their restaurant 13 Gypsies.

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Jay Burnett

Gaston Buschiazzo

Sean Kelly Conway

Jen Hand

A former, long-time magazine editor turned entrepreneur, Jay is founder and co-owner of Jacksonville-based Bold Bean Coffee Roasters. Describing himself as a “culinary adventurist” with a penchant for recreational food shopping, he delights in discovering unusual ingredients in unusual places for his equally unusual, free-form recipes and comestible combinations. He will never admit to ever turning down questionable edibles (though balut will forever remain iffy).

Gaston originally hails from Argentina, where he received a culinary degree from Gato Dumas Culinary School. Since moving to the United States, Gaston has worked in restaurants in Lake Tahoe, Hawaii and is currently at The Floridian in St. Augustine. He loves cooking for his wife and daughter, and is excited about combining South American culinary traditions with the local ingredients found on Florida’s first coast.

Flagler grad and St. Augustine native, Kelly spent several years honing his documentary and street photography skills while working and traveling around Asia, before getting cozy in his home town (although the horizons still beckon). When not bothering shrimpers, Kelly can be found digging through anthropological field recordings, chasing surf, photographing motel signage and giving historic photo tours in downtown St. Augustine.

Jen is a freelance writer based in St. Augustine. Her work has appeared in the St. Augustine Record and Folio Weekly and currently blogs for RoadBikeOutlet.com. A former short order cook, caterer, bartender and baker, she loves her CSA and farmers’ markets, and may have a slight cookbook problem. When not eating copious amounts of vegetables, Jen is found running trails, paddling the Intracoastal or playing soccer.

Brenna Noel Martin

Greg Parlier

Kristen Penoyer

Ryan Ruffell

Born and raised in a small town near Cape Canaveral, this Florida native is undeniably creative to the core and acquired a degree in graphic design + fine art from Flagler College. When she’s not busy designing up a storm, Brenna enjoys doodling unsuspecting strangers, exploring hidden gems in Jacksonville, getting into shenanigans with friends and planning her next big expedition.

After starting his career in journalism in Lakeland, and getting his hands dirty on organic farms in Asheville, Florida native Greg Parlier moved to St. Augustine in 2015 to help friends build an urban farm. That accomplished, he now writes about environmental and agriculture issues for Folio Weekly and picks greens out of his backyard garden in west St. Augustine between shifts at local native plant nursery Southern Horticulture.

Kristen is a professional photographer and self-professed “food nerd” with a passion for documenting the culinary world from seed to plate. A serial creative, she’s launched several photography-related businesses. Kristen has lived in five countries, crushed grapes under her feet in Argentina, spent days on goat farms, educated by South American sommeliers and mastered the art of Uruguayan wood coal grilling.

Always excited about cooking, Ryan was introduced to cooking at a very young age by his step father who was a chef. Previous experience included being the Sous Chef at Roy’s Hawaiian Fusion. As the Chef de Cuisine of Blackfly the Restaurant Ryan loves being able to take advantage of the local farms and seafood purveyors St. Augustine has to offer.

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Jan/Feb 2016

EDIBLE INNOVATORS

ENCHANTED FOOD FOREST WORDS LAUREN TITUS PHOTOS SARAH ANNAY

The directions to the edible food forest were very precise for a destination that seemed more mythical than real: Head south on 207, go through traffic light in Hastings another 6/10 mile. Stay in the right lane, then turn right onto Old Hastings Road 1.4 miles, until it dead-ends. The driveway is ½ mile on the right. Turn in where you see cassia blossoms on the mailbox. The last hint indicated that I was indeed approaching a spot off the beaten track, and as I turned down Fred Bergen’s driveway I left behind the tick-tock world if only for a short spell. Many will know Bergen from the black garlic products he sells at the Old City Farmers’ Market in St. Augustine. At Fred Bergen’s

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Artisan Black Garlic tent he offers a variety of garlic-infused vinegars and sea salts using this fermented product which adds sweet, fruity, even earthy tones creating unique culinary delights. During a conversation with him at the market, which includes a sample of the black garlic products, you will get a taste of Bergen’s varied background as well. His parents were high-wire performers from Germany, The Silver Condors, and he was part of the act at an early age. “Being part of the international community of circus performers from birth influenced my view of the world. Living in harmony with people and within nature is important to me,” said Bergen. Any conversation with Bergen will inevitably lead to a discussion of the beauty

of an edible landscape, which is not surprising given the initiative he undertook about five years ago to transform his property into a food forest. Using a configuration of berms and swales, Bergen follows the practice of permaculture, utilizing the patterns and features found in the natural world to grow edible plants. While the concept has been around for many years, the approach to growing food was so named by a couple of Australians in the 1970s. Permaculture, or permanent culture, starts from a philosophy of integrating with nature rather than trying to control it. After spending some time noting the habits of plants and insects alike, Bergen has established a food forest that includes fruit trees, legumes, spices, ornamentals and vegetables, each with a specific purpose and benefit, even if it is just aesthetically appealing. “I grow some plants, like the roses and day lilies, just because the flowers and

leaves are beautiful,” said Bergen. A plethora of fruit trees and bushes line the yard, including plum, pear, pomegranate, loquat, blackberry, blueberry, mayhaw, orange, mulberry, lemon and more. Cassia and other legumes are planted for the benefits they provide as nitrogen fixers. Vegetation such as galangal and turmeric is utilized in some of his black garlic products and other culinary endeavors. Home gardens come in a variety of sizes and formats, depending on the available space. If you have a bit of space in your landscape, you might want to consider an approach similar to Bergen’s, who has cultivated a biodiverse eco-system integrating native plants with complementary vegetation reflecting his belief in the interconnectedness of the landscape and an interdependent world. Bergen’s gardening approach is one that not only results in an edible harvest; his food forest also represents a philosophy of living in harmony with nature and with each other.

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SEEKING REFUGE

at the Table Words Nan Kavanaugh Photos Amy Robb

For most of us, the closest we will ever get to traveling Asia is enjoying a great meal at a restaurant here in NE Florida—digging into pad thai or nam sod, with its garnish of a bright carrot crane or radish flower, a slice of lime and vibrant mix of flavors. A simple dish can express so much about the tone and feel of a place, no matter how distant. Food is a language that acts as a bridge between cultures, unlike other media except perhaps music. But unlike music, food activates memory through a full sensory experience: the taste of a spice, the smell of baking bread, the sight of persimmon flesh, the sound of a teakettle coming to boil. the smooth touch of mousse to the tongue. Food and drink provide humanity a common language of experience to explore our diversity without speaking a single word. When you walk into Amith Patel’s market, Raja Indian Spices, on Baymeadows Road, there is a small pushcart to the left of the door. Sitting on top of it is a clear plastic bag of what looks like square caramels. “They are dried cheese. The Nepalese eat it. They chew it like gum,” says Amith. Everything on the pushcart is specialty ordered, not for his regular Indian customers but for refugees from all over the world: Syria, Lebanon, Burma, Ethiopia, Iran, Cambodia, Colombia, Iraq, Nepal, Bosnia, Sudan. Every year 70,000 refugees are brought to America, and

about 2,000 find sanctuary in Northeast Florida. “There is a difference between a refugee and an asylum seeker. A refugee is forced out, not by choice. They then apply for refugee status at a camp,” says Amber Dodge, orientation specialist with Lutheran Social Services. “Sometimes they have to wait as long as 15 to 20 years in the camps. Then our government flies them here and places them in different cities.” This history of Jacksonville as a refugee resettlement community in many ways can be linked to one woman, Elaine Carson. Known as “Mrs. P”, a pastor’s wife who spent much of her young adult life doing missionary work, she focused her attention on the Soviet Union. In 1988, Lutheran Social Services called on her to help an extended family of 30 Ukrainians make Jacksonville their home. After settling many more families, World Relief Organization asked her to open an office on the First Coast. Because of its strong faith-based social service organizations, Jacksonville is designated as a refugee resettlement city by the federal government and has welcomed thousands of people to start new lives here. Many of the refugees come from a rural life. The culture shock combined with a total language barrier can make settlement in Amer-

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Jan/Feb 2016

ica more than daunting. They often seek out restaurants and markets that have a cuisine they recognize as the comforts of home. Raja Indian Spices serves this global community as a common marketplace where refugees can find a taste of home. “It was like a challenge when we first opened up. We had no knowledge about their culture or food,” says Amith. The Patels did their research, speaking with suppliers and vendors in other markets like Atlanta, as well as customers, about how best to stock their store. “Today, we are proud to say being an Indian grocery, we serve more non-Indian customers,” he says. They carry special fruits, vegetables and, most importantly, spices. “As you know, your recipes are incomplete without your spices,” says Amith. It is the spice that makes a meal unique to a culture. A few doors down from Patel’s shop is Ibex Ethiopian Kitchen, a restaurant owned by Tsion Chikesmo and her husband, Teddy Aboye. The couple both arrived in America as refugees from Ethiopia over a decade ago. They settled in Jacksonville after initial placement in different states. “When I first came to Jacksonville, I went to a restaurant on Atlantic Boulevard, the Queen of Sheba,” says Teddy. “It was an Ethiopian restaurant. I was looking to find a roommate, so I asked the restaurant owner. Within in a month, she helped me find a roommate.” Today, Teddy is a math instructor at Keyser College, while Tsion is a chef/restaurant owner. On any given day, Tsion can be found in the kitchen at Ibex, creating traditional Ethiopian fare for hungry customers of all nationalities, but mainly Africans. She hails from the Gurage District of Ethiopia, a region known for its incredible cuisine. Some of her customers come in to eat every meal, three or four times a day,

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especially when they are new arrivals to America. “Restaurants are good transition places, particularly for older people. They have been eating the same food for years, all of their lives, and they come here if they don’t cook at home,” says Teddy. “I hear people talking in the restaurant too. It is like a bridge. An American will ask an African a question about the menu, and then a conversation starts.” Ibex is a warm space, with wood-paneled walls and beautiful drawings of Ethiopian culture hanging above the tables. There, Teddy and Tsion serve the Ethiopian refugee community far outside the realm of food service. They help people find work. Find a car. Find a home. On Sundays, they host a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, revolving around the sharing of conversation, a ritual from home. Coffee originates from Ethiopia. “Coffee is the backbone of Ethiopia. Seven days a week, sometimes twice a day, people have neighbors over to their home and they gather over coffee to connect about the day,” says Teddy. In Iraq, the tradition is to gather over tea. Muhammed Issa Al Marzok and his wife, Safid Essa, and four children have been in America just over one year. They fled Iraq in 2006, crossing as refugees into Syria, where they lived for six years waiting to be granted refugee status. “The UN office is so small. It is tiny,” he says as he outlines a square with his hands. The processing of the thousands of refugees takes on average five years. Muhammed and his family lived in a camp in Syria for six years, before returning to Iraq. “Things were getting too bad in Syria, so we went home to Basra,” he says. Two years back in Iraq, the phone rang and they were told to come to America. They landed in Jacksonville in May 2014 with their lives packed into a few bags. “Jacksonville reminds me of Basra. We have three rivers there, and the Gulf,” says Muhammed. But in many ways life here is different. Similar to Latin cultures, in Iraq the largest meal of the day is lunch. People return home to eat with their families, and then relax in the dead heat of the afternoon before returning to work and the bustle of life in the early evening. Before he and his family were forced out of their country, Muhammed was in the construction industry. His last project was designing and creating the custom furnishings for the suites in a new Crown Royal Plaza in Jordan. Today, they live in a quiet apartment complex tucked off of Old St. Augustine Road. Muhammed and his wife take English classes during the day. While the children are at school, in the afternoon, Soffia packs him up a halal meal in a blue cooler bag and sends him off to work. He works the night shift at Walmart, while she stays home. Muhammed is working to be able to afford the English classes he needs to be able to return to his previous career. Soffia works a little as a seamstress. In the evenings she does the cooking for the family, but he cooks too. “In Iraq, both men and women cook. If we were doing a barbecue, sometimes the meat can be very big and heavy, and then men have to cook it,” he says. “But every woman in Iraq knows how to make bread. Because of the sanctions it would sometimes be hard to buy bread. Flour is less expensive,” he says. Tucked in one of the few bags the family brought to America, Soffia had packed Iraqi bread spice. “It is all gone now, but she found something similar at a market here,” says Muhammed. Amith’s market is not too far from Muhammed’s home. In Raja

Indian Spices, near the bins of fresh vegetables is a cooler full of breads ranging from naan to pita to more obscure varieties. He does his best to have a little of something for everyone. If he doesn’t carry an item, he uses Google translator to find out exactly what his customer is looking for. “They always tell me that we are one people divided by borders and religion,” he says. “We help people with their paperwork, find jobs and housing. These people have lost everything. They have a hunger to achieve and be successful in life. They want their children to have a brighter future, and they love this beautiful country. There is a reason why they are here.” There is an old adage that says the fastest way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. Northeast Florida has become a global refuge for people who are starting life over from scratch. For these weary settlers, our small markets and ethnic restaurants have helped to mend the hearts of the homesick. For locals, they are an open door to the rich diversity that makes our region so unique. Walk through it, and ask what’s on the menu. The world’s table is a beautiful reminder of the common thread that binds us all.

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Simple ingredients. True flavor. An attention to detail that elevates the ordinary.

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EDIBLE TABLE

What’s in Season?

Here’s a list of the produce and seafood you can expect to find at your local farmers’ market in the coming months. Growing methods such as hydroponics can extend seasons, so you may also see other types of produce on occasion. Additionally, seasonal closures and catch limits may effect availability of fish and seafood.

PRODUCE Arugula Beets Bok Choy Broccoli Broccoli Raab Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Calamondins Carrots Cauliflower Chard Chinese Cabbage

Chives Cilantro Collards Cress Cucumbers Curry Leaf Daikon radishes Dill Endive Escarole Fennel Garlic chives Grapefruit Green onions Kale

Spinach Strawberries Swiss Chard Tangelos Tangerines Thyme Turnips

Kohlrabi Kumquats Lettuce Loquats Microgreens Mizuna Mustard Greens Nasturtiums Onions Oranges Oregano Parsley Radicchio Radish Rosemary Salad mix Sorrel (red veined)

FISH AND SEAFOOD Amberjack Catfish Cobia Drum Grouper Oyster Pompano Snapper Tuna Wahoo

Information provided by Florida Department of Agriculture, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, South Atlantic Fishery Management Council and other sources. Photo by Jenna Alexander

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SEASONAL PLATE

Abacos Hog Snapper and Rock Lobster Tortellini This dish, served in a Saffron Vanilla Lobster Broth, also highlights seasonal vegetables such as bok choy and leeks. Serves 2 | Recipe by Chef Matthew Brown

INGREDIENTS For the vegetables: 1 cup bok choy, chiffonade 1 cup leeks, julienne 1 tablespoon olive oil Season to taste For the tortellini: 4 each gyoza wrappers 2 ounces ricotta cheese 1 teaspoon lemon zest ½ teaspoon chopped thyme 1 tablespoon brunoise shallots 2 ounces Chardonnay white wine 1 tail rock lobster or Maine lobster, chopped in 1- by 1-inch cubes 1 ounce unsalted butter

PREPARATION For the tortellini : Sauté shallots in olive oil until they are translucent but not caramelized. Pour in white wine and add the butter, thyme, lemon and lobster. Poach the lobster until it is almost cooked through but not completely. Cool immediately, then add to ricotta cheese and mix. Using the gyoza wrappers make basic tortellini, making sure each gets a whole chunk of lobster. Cook tortellini in boiling water for 30 seconds, then set aside. For the vegetable, snapper and sauce: With the pan lid on, sweat the leeks in olive oil until translucent (five to ten minutes),

For the fish and sauce: 4 ounces hog snapper filet, skin on, lightly seasoned with sea salt 12 ounces lobster stock Pinch of saffron Pinch of Madagascar vanilla beans or 1/8 teaspoon high-quality vanilla extract 1 ounce heavy cream 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

Photo by Jenna Alexander

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then add the bok choy and sauté until lightly wilted. Pull from pan and place in middle of serving bowl. For the snapper: Allow the pan to heat up on very high heat and cook the snapper skin side down until the skin is crispy, then flip over and allow the fish to cook through. Place snapper on top of the bok choy vegetables. Using the same pan add lobster stock, saffron, vanilla, cream and vinegar, then reduce liquid by half. Add the tortellini, season to taste, then place around the snapper and vegetable composition. Garnish with microgreens and enjoy! TIP: Chiffonade and julienne are similar techniques of cutting up vegetables and herbs into long, thin strips. To brunoise is to cut into small cubes.

Wahoo Crudo Fresno chili peppers are easy to grow in your garden, and add a flavorful punch to this appetizer. Serves 4 | Recipe by Chef Ryan Ruffell

INGREDIENTS 4 ounces fresh wahoo (sliced sashimi style) 1 Fresno chili, thinly sliced and pickled in a solution of equal parts sugar, water and rice wine vinegar 1 Hidden Rose apple, julienned 1 tablespoon black lava sea salt 2 ounces Citrus Ginger Ponzu 1 ounce micro radish PREPARATION After slicing the wahoo into 4 (1-ounce) pieces, wrap each around the apple and

place on spoon. Top with 1 slice pickled Fresno chili and finish with a pinch of black lava sea salt and a teaspoon of ponzu. Garnish with micro radish. TIPS: Ponzu is a citrus soy sauce and can be found in the International aisle of the grocery store or at specialty markets. To make Citrus Ginger Ponzu, combine minced ginger, ginger juice and Ponzu sauce. To pickle the chili pepper, combine equal parts sugar, water and rice wine vinegar. Pour over thinly sliced peppers in jar, cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.

Photo by Amy Robb

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Jan/Feb 2016

Cream Cheese Gnudi with Cured Ham Gnudi is a pasta dish similar to gnocchi, using cream cheese instead of potatoes. Serves 2-4 | Recipe by Chef Howard Kirk and Sous Chef Brian Moore INGREDIENTS

For gnudi: 8 ounces whipped cream cheese 1½ cups grated Parmesan, Pecorino or Asiago cheese 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 egg, beaten 1 teaspoon white pepper ¼ teaspoon salt For sauce and garnish: Water Butter Salt Pepper Cured ham Arugula Lemon juice Olive oil

too large, it may not be fully cooked in the center, resulting in a cold center with an uncooked flour taste. Pieces about half the size of a golf ball work best. To cook the gnudi, place a pan over medium heat with enough olive oil to lightly coat the entire surface. Sauté the gnudi gently, rolling them over a bit every once in a while so that you get nice golden spots along the surface. Cook until completely tender and melty. (Yes, that’s a word.) In a separate pan, also with olive oil on medium heat, toss in some hand-shredded prosciutto or other cured ham (Serrano, speck, guanciale, pancetta, etc.—smoked bacon also works

PREPARATION

Place all gnudi ingredients in a bowl and combine with a spoon until a rough dough forms. Turn out on to a lightly floured work surface and knead with your hands until well combined and slightly less tacky. Return to bowl and cover with plastic film. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. This will tighten up the dough and allow you to work with it more easily. When ready to cook, remove from the refrigerator and shape however you wish. While the quick approach is to shape into balls, the traditional way is to make cylinders by rolling out the gnudi into a rope shape and cutting segments out of it. The key to a good shape is size. If they are too small, you will not have much of a nice melted center. If they are

Photo by Kristen Penoyer

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well). Gently sweat the shredded ham until it renders out some fat and flavor into the pan. Add 1 to 3 knobs of butter, depending on portion size, and some water. Cook everything together, swirling the pan until a nice butter sauce forms in the pan. Be careful not to cook it at too high of a heat or the butter will break and you will get an oily sauce. Taste the sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place the golden gnudi in a shallow bowl and pour over the buttered ham sauce. Toss the arugula with a little olive oil and lemon juice and garnish. Enjoy.

Pimento Cheese made with Wainwright Dairy cheddar, Live Oak, FL Kaiser Bun from Village Bread, Jacksonville, FL Eggs from Black Hog Farm, East Palatka, FL

Grass-Fed Meat from Seminole Pride, Fort McCoy, FL Lettuce from Bacon’s Select Produce, Jacksonville, FL

Bread & Butter Jalapeños made in-house at Black Sheep

Bacon from Pine Street Market, Avondale Estates, GA

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HING JEERA PEANUTS, BOURBON BISCUITS AND

Snakehead Fish WORDS JAY BURNETT PHOTOS AMY ROBB

Northeast Florida boasts an international cornucopia of culinary curiosities and edible delights— a magical mélange of Middle Eastern, Latin, Asian, Indo/Pak, Eastern European, Caribbean and African flavors. All within easy reach. Hung Thinh casts the bait, sets the hook and reels me in. It’s an easy catch. And once again, to my chagrin, I find myself prey to the unfamiliar and unusual. The small glass jar with its crudely illustrated, loosely descriptive label is the lure that has drawn me in. But it’s what that jar holds—a coiled miniature sea serpent the label describes as “Preserved Whole Snakehead Fish in Brine”—that catches and holds me. It’s indeed a curious find. But not unlike other discoveries made while exploring the aisles, bins and back corners of food markets akin to Hung Thinh, both here and abroad. Far more than being a simple sideshow of culinary curiosities, Northeast Florida’s ethnic and international grocery stores offer a window to the world for those of us seeking sustenance beyond what many would consider standard, everyday “American” fare. This product-packed Asian supermarket on Jacksonville’s sprawling and sometimes gritty West Side is the type of place that can hold anyone with a fascination for (and appreciation of) cultures beyond their own. Sharing a common language can create a bond, but food more than anything else speaks to the collective soul of any culture. Embrace its food, and you’ve embraced its people. (And, more often than not, they’ll embrace you.) Never mind language, racial and cultural differences. As a whole, Southerners—whose regional food culture has been shaped largely by a history of immigration, both voluntary and otherwise—should perhaps be best equipped for accepting, incorporating

and celebrating the food traditions of other cultures. And maybe nowhere in the South outside of New Orleans or Atlanta is this more evident than Northeast Florida, where Southern staples—fried chicken, barbecue, cathead biscuits, sawmill gravy and pecan pie—often share the same menu with tabouli, kibbi, falafel, hummus, baklava, lumpia, pinakbet and suman—Arab and Filipino specialties that reflect the influence and assimilation of two of the region’s largest and most visible ethnic populations. More than 25,000 Filipino Americans call Northeast Florida home, many having served in or with ties to the U.S. Navy. The area’s estimated 8,000 Arab American residents, since migrating and immigrating to the area in the early 20th century, have also contributed greatly to Northeast Florida’s economy and cultural makeup, with many of the region’s business, professional and political leaders having family ties to Lebanon, Syria, Iraq and Palestine. The area’s Hispanic and Latino population currently tops 60,000 and it’s growing. It’s our region’s largest immigrant community. In recent years, Northeast Florida has rapidly become home to

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Jan/Feb 2016

increasingly large numbers of Eastern Europeans, as well as immigrants from Southeast Asia, India, Pakistan, Africa and the Caribbean. This ethnic and cultural stew has given rise to new businesses begun primarily to serve those communities. While most of us are willing to try ethnic restaurants, cafés and food trucks, too few are willing to escape the comfort zone of our neighborhood Publix or Winn-Dixie when it comes to shopping for food. Granted, there can be differences when comparing the typical modern supermarket in the US with many of our region’s ethnic food stores. Wide, brightly lit aisles and artful presentation of produce and packaged items create an inviting and comfortable environment that we have become accustomed to. By comparison, many ethnic grocery stores remain small, family-run businesses that are oftentimes short on consumer comforts but make up for those shortcomings in other ways. Lower overhead means lower prices, as does the ready availability of many items rarely found in more modern grocery stores. Customer buying habits dictate selection and price. Food shoppers from immigrant communities are accustomed to prices that reflect income and lifestyle in their native countries. This is especially true with fresh produce and dry goods such as beans, rice and spices, as well as prepared foods, baked goods plus sweet and savory snacks. Some staples available in ethnic groceries can be had for as little as half the price as similar items at a typical chain supermarket.

Jan/Feb 2016

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

Lower prices are, indeed, one of the benefits of shopping ethnic markets, especially for budget conscious shoppers. But perhaps the greatest benefit is experiencing the joy of discovery and of incorporating the flavors of different food cultures into our own. MIX AND MATCH Tortilla chips, salsas and guacamole have for years been party food favorites, sharing the same table with deviled eggs, raw veggies, ranch dressing, kettle chips and onion dip. But cruising both sides of the expansive snack aisle at Patel Brothers—a large, modern Indo/Pak supermarket on Baymeadows Road (a boulevard boasting at least a half-dozen Indian/Pakistani restaurants and multiple ethnic markets in the heart of Jacksonville’s Southside)—I’m moved to push aside the predictable Mexican-inspired fare of game day soirees to make room for savory samplings of some newly discovered snacks. The wide, well-arranged aisles bulge with competing brands of bhel puri, dahi vada and bhujia, crisp and savory Indian street foods collectively called “chaat.” Packages of Samrat brand Sing Bhujiya hot peanuts (“Carefully selected peanuts dipped in chickpea flour and sprinkled with hot-tasty mouth-watering spices”) and Jabsons spicy Hing Jeera peanuts, touted for their “True roasted flavour and Ayurvedic digestive properties,” capture my gaze and consumptive imagination then quickly land in my cart, headed for an international rendezvous

with a perfect pairing of boiled Georgia peanuts and some locally brewed IPA. I weave my way through an amazing maze of canned goods, condiments, kitchen utensils, spiritual aids, frozen foods and microwave masala. I wander past shelves filled with bulk spices—cumin, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, select salts, black, red and white pepper. Pausing on the next aisle, I peruse the store’s potpourri of dried, packaged peas, beans, multi-hued lentils, rice and other grains and move on to the produce section, just past the fresh pickle and chutney bar, where shoppers can fill take-home containers with their favorite savory sides. The store’s produce section is a rainbow ribbon of bright green, brilliant purple, red, orange and yellow—okra, eggplant, squash, scallions, peppers, pumpkins and potatoes. Papayas, mangos and citrus, too. But also painting the space are the less familiar—desi papdi, duhdi, bitter melon, tori, guvar and snake gourd. Vedic vegetables. I round the corner of another aisle and spot it. Bourbon. Right there at eye level. It’s the name on the foil wrapper that gets my attention. I pluck it from the shelf, study the wrapper illustration of the cream-filled chocolate “Bourbon” biscuits sealed inside, grab another and drop them both in my basket. A few of those little cookies might not make it home.

FUSION CONFUSION, OR THE PERFECT PAIR? I like to think I can hold my own working in just about any home kitchen. But I’ll concede that when it comes to re-creating ethnic fare, I prefer to leave that to the pros. Even given the proper ingredients—all readily found at ethnic groceries and farm stalls—I might come close, but can rarely duplicate the authentic flavors of my favorite Thai, Vietnamese, Indian, Mexican or Caribbean restaurants. What I will do instead is take those often uncommon ingredients or prepared foods from the international food aisles and pair them with or incorporate them into foods and dishes I am familiar with. Like chicken burritos topped with Amish apple butter. A curious combination, for sure. But . . . truly delicious. My approach is akin to playing the home version of the Food Network’s “Chopped,” where competing chefs are given mystery baskets of odd and unusual ingredients, instructed to create dishes combining each of those ingredients with ingredients of their choosing, then they are eliminated or move on to the next round based on the success or failure of the dish and decision of the judges. Exploring any of Northeast Florida’s ethnic or international groceries is much the same as opening that mystery basket. You never know what you’ll find, but will always discover something new. And, with each new discovery comes a new appreciation for, better understanding of and interest in exploring a world of flavors, cultures and ideas.

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Jan/Feb 2016

Simple ingredients. Exquisite execution.

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818 Post Street | Jacksonville 904-240-0412 | cornertaco.com

Jan/Feb 2016

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

BACK OF THE HOUSE

Beach Fare with International

Flair WORDS LAUREN TITUS PHOTOS AMY ROBB

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Jan/Feb 2016

Owner Norberto Jaramillo and his Executive Chef Marcel Vizcarra create international cuisine at La Cocina in St. Augustine Beach.

Growing up, I spent many weekends at the beach with my family. Before heading to the ocean for the day, my mother would pack a picnic lunch. The bologna sandwiches would inevitably end up with a layer of sand in between the mustard and soggy lettuce, and the Hawaiian Punch left a red mustache that blended in with the sunburn on my cheeks. Hardly the makings of a gourmet feast. Oh how times have changed, as I quickly realized after a stop at La Cocina on St. Augustine Beach. Tucked inside a hotel on A1A, La Cocina has a loyal local clientele who appreciate an international menu that is not typical beach grub, and owner Norberto Jaramillo is excited to share his love of authentic flavors with his customers. Asian, Spanish, Italian, French and South American dishes are offered, and daily specials take advantage of the local seasonal produce and seafood. A career in food service is not always a straight path, so it helps to be versatile and ready to jump at opportunities presented along the way. As you grab at the proffered golden ring, you might even uncover hidden talents. Jaramillo can attest to the value of pursuing new ven-

Jan/Feb 2016

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

tures, as he did when offered the chance to purchase La Cocina three years ago. While he had worked in restaurants for many years, cooking was not part of his resume, until he assumed ownership of La Cocina. “All my brothers are chefs, but I had never cooked. Once I bought this place, after working here for seven years—always front of the house: serving, managing the staff and dealing with customers—I discovered a passion I never thought I had. I discovered how rewarding it is to cook,” said Jaramillo, the excitement of that revelation still evident in his voice. When you look at Jaramillo’s upbringing, it’s not surprising that he eventually found his way to the kitchen. He recalls the garden his family had in the backyard while growing up in Colombia, and how it all was put to good use. “We grew everything: coffee, yucca, lemons, limes, raspberries, corn, all kinds of vegetables. And my mother cooked it all. I guess that’s where the passion for good food and flavorful ingredients started,” said Jaramillo. Like the eclectic menu, the staff itself is a cultural mélange. Executive Chef Marcel Vizcarra hails from Peru, while other employees are

from Mexico, Poland, Chile, Venezuela, Hungary and St. Augustine. “Everyone gets along,” said Jaramillo. “It’s fun to watch us cook and work together.” Jaramillo and Vizcarra share a similar vision of the food they want to prepare for their customers. “We serve food the way we would like to eat it, bringing out just the right element in simple ingredients,” said Jaramillo. “Some of our dishes take a great deal of time to prepare but the final product is worth it.” La Cocina participated in the Tour de Farm 2015, partnering with a nearby farm, Guerrilla Growery. “We get microgreens from them for some of our dishes,” Jaramillo said. He is eager to work with other local growers and utilize what’s available in the region whenever possible. “It’s hard to get the amount of free-range chicken that we need, but we will keep looking for sources. I want to incorporate more local products onto the menu and I hope to work with other farmers in the area,” said Jaramillo. Global delights made with the region’s best products? Sorry soggy bologna sandwich, I think you lost your seat at the table.

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Jan/Feb 2016

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INTERNATIONAL

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GUIDE A Food Finder’s Guide to Selective Sampling WORDS JAY BURNETT PHOTOS AMY ROBB

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Jan/Feb 2016

Northeast Florida boasts dozens of food markets and neighborhood convenience stores serving the international communities in our area, along with neophyte nibblers and foodies focused on interesting ingredients. The following is a small (but select) sampling of regional finds

Asian Hung Thinh Supermarket Favorite Finds: Red Boat 40º N and 9999 fish sauces, Noh brand Korean Kim Chee Mix (for mixing up batches of homemade kim chee), pecks of pickled chilies, Bun Tuoi “Bamboo Tree” fresh rice vermicelli noodles, Filipino-created Suka Pinakurat spiced coconut vinegar (possibly the best fish marinade ever – great for grilling, and PLEASE, add it to any seafood-based soups, especially oyster stew), fresh tripe, congealed blood and chicken feet from the butchery, crispy roast pork or duck for takeout from the deli/BBQ (ask for extra skin, the best part). And, you have to check out the large selection of traditional

Jan/Feb 2016

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

palm leaf “Hue” hats, ideal for fishing, gardening or simply making a First Coast fashion statement. 5801 Normandy Blvd. Jacksonville 904-783-2218

Circle Japan Grocery & Café Favorite Finds: Circle Japan’s o’sake-ya (sake store) stocks an outstanding selection of premium sakes. An even larger selection is available for sale online. In-store sake tastings every Friday from 5 to 8pm. The store can also arrange staff for home parties to provide information about sake and Japanese culture. Also, fresh-baked Japanese breads and Ginga Kogen beer, an excellent unfiltered Bavarian-style wheat beer brewed in the mountain village of Sauwachi, located in an area of heavy snowfall that is the source of the area’s famous water used in brewing. Look for the beautiful blue bottle with snow-capped peaks and reindeer on the label. 12192 Beach Blvd., Suite 1 Jacksonville Sake manager: 904-710-5193 904-642-7799

La Salsa Market Favorite finds: With a name like “La Salsa” one might be surprised to learn this is an Asian market. Their claim to fame? A stunning array of exotic produce and fresh seafood. 11757 Beach Blvd. Jacksonville 904-379-8930

Also, check out:

Mike Cell Oriental Grocery 10730 Atlantic Blvd Jacksonville 904-997-1345

Jax Oriental Market 10584 Old St. Augustine Rd Jacksonville 904-288-8288

PJ’s Asia One Market 425 State Rd 207 St. Augustine 904-429-7587

Cambodian Oriental Store 1104 Edgewood Ave S. Jacksonville 904-388-1524

Eastern European

Middle Eastern

Amar European Grocery

Kourosh Market

(two locations) Favorite Finds: Bende brand Hungarian Hot Mixed Salad (great side dish and alternative to sauerkraut; excellent with grilled seafood), marinated mushrooms (nine varieties), Arikon Classic Russian Fish Seasoning, Cockta soda (I’m not typically a soda drinker, but Cockta rocks; think vanilla cola . . . Sorry, Atlanta), salmon caviar. 5664 Santa Monica Blvd S. Jacksonville 904-739-9447

Favorite Finds: The stuffed eggplant in oil, carrot preserves, bergamont jam and a whole host of flavored waters (dill weed, fenugreek, chicory, pussywillow, and peppermint) 9551 Baymeadows Rd Jacksonville 904-636-5957

5250 Baymeadows Rd. Jacksonville 904-739-9447

Serpol of Florida Favorite Finds: Fresh frozen pierogis (more than a dozen varieties), pickled vegetables and smoked sausages 2 B Market Place Palm Coast 904-597-7544

Noura Cafe and Imported Foods 1533 University Blvd West Jacksonville 904-739-0033

Patel Brothers Grocery Favorite Finds: Jabsons Hing Jeera spicy peanuts, bitter gourd chips, bulk spices, frozen samosas (flaky pastries typically filled with spicy potatoes and peas), Swad brand Bhel Puri and Pan Puri kits, ghee (clarified butter). 9551 Baymeadows Rd Jacksonville 904-800-2235

Also, check out:

Jay Patel’s Indian Grocery and Produce 9802 Baymeadows Rd Jacksonville 904-807-9802

House of Spices

Indo/Pak

9978-4 Old St. Augustine Rd Jacksonville 904-646-4427

Raja Indian Spices

Kalyaan Market

Favorite Finds: Vegetable pastry puffs (on weekends), traditional Indian sweets such as Rasmalai and Ladoo (both flavored with cardamom) and Kaju Barfi (cashew rolls). 5111 Baymeadows Rd Jacksonville 904-448-8006

Latino Hispanic Pepe’s Hacienda Favorite Finds: El Yucateco brand chile habanero hot sauce (“You Get More Habanero”), Gembos Spicy Plantain Chips with Chile, Lime and Salt (move over kettle chips), Fly Emirates sponsored soccer jersey (just because it looks cool). 3615 Dupont Ave, Ste 900 Jacksonville 904-636-8131

Also, check out:

Mi Pueblo Taqueria, Tienda and Meat Market 11969 Beach Blvd Jacksonville 904-645-6969

9365 Philips Hwy, Ste 102 Jacksonville 904-363-8233

Apna Bazar 10769 Beach Blvd Jacksonville 904-996-8780

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Jan/Feb 2016

EDIBLE DIY

CRAZY FOR CURRY? Variety is the spice of this worldwide favorite WORDS ASHLEY AMIN PHOTOS AMY ROBB

Jan/Feb 2016

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

MANY PEOPLE MISUNDERSTAND THE MEANING OF “CURRY.”

Some believe that curry is extremely hot and always has strong tastes of spices and herbs. This is not true! Most people also think of curry as a yellow powder, but curry can actually be a leaf, a powder, a sauce or a paste. When referred to as a sauce, curry is a blend of many spices, herbs and other ingredients cooked with vegetables or a protein. For example, Chicken Vindaloo is a tangy tomato curry cooked with potatoes and chicken. This has a stew-like consistency to it. Curry comes from the word “kari,” from the South Indian language Tamil meaning sauce. The British anglicized it to “curry.” There are so many different types of curry tastes, colors and smells, depending on its region or country. For example, in Thailand they use curry pastes to prepare red, yellow or green curry. In India, curry dishes use more dry spices such as garam masala, a blend containing 20-plus different spices ground up into a fine powder. Asian curries tend to be more soupy and light in texture. Indian curries tend to have a rich, creamy texture in a thick sauce; however, in the Western part of India the curries are a drier consistency. Their curries are tempered with whole spices and use more of a stir-fry technique when cooking, using dry spices along with other fresh ingredients and little or no dairy. Curry can also be found in the West Indies, using Indian spices in more of a broth base. I grew up eating curry my whole life. I remember the first time my mother showed me her spice box, when I was 12. A masala dabba is pretty much found in every Indian household. The circular box contains seven or eight containers, each filled with whole or ground spices. I was truly amazed by the colors and smells of the spices. She explained to me every spice and what each one was for. The frequently used spices kept in this box are for cooking curries and rice dishes. Turmeric, garam masala, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, cumin powder, cloves and red chili powder are among the most popular spices. You can customize the box to your needs. Some households have more than one in their pantry. One is kept for whole spices and another for ground spices. So the next time you go for a curry, remember: Every curry has a different taste, spice level and smell. Chef Ashley Amin is the co-owner of Fusion Food Truck and was awarded “Top Indian Chef ” in San Diego in 2009. She has cooked for many VIPs and celebrities such as the Dalai Lama. Born in Uganda and raised in London, England, she moved to San Diego and started her venture in the restaurant business with her brother in the early 90’s.

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Jan/Feb 2016

Mustard seed:

Common in many cuisines. Black, brown or yellow seeds used whole or ground in sauces, marinades and condiments. Pungency increases when mixed with water or vinegar.

Turmeric:

Native to southwest India; in the ginger family. Adds golden-yellow color to dishes, with a flavor similar to pepper or ginger. Used in curry mixes. Believed to have anti-inflammatory properties.

Clove:

Native to Indonesia. These slightly sweet and aromatic flower buds are used whole or ground with meats, curries, baked goods and fruit dishes.

Garam Masala:

A blend of ground spices, the name means hot (garam) mixture of spices (masala). Commonly used in North India cuisine. May include black and white peppercorns, cinnamon, bay leaf, cumin, cardamom, clove and nutmeg, though may vary according to region.

Coriander:

Fresh leaves, also called cilantro or Chinese parsley, used in salsa or guacamole. Seeds (the dried fruit of the plant) used whole or ground and add nutty, citrus flavor. Roasting the seeds increases the pungency.

Star Anise:

Native to China and Vietnam. With a flavor similar to licorice and anise, use whole in meat, poultry and pork dishes, or add to mulled wine and other beverages. Included in Chinese Five Spice mix.

Fenugreek:

Mainly grown in India, the seeds have a spicy, sweet, nutty flavor used in a variety of dishes: curries, breads, desserts and teas. Roasting the seeds enhances the flavor.

Caraway:

Native to North Africa and the Mediterranean. A sweet flavor similar to fennel or aniseed, the seeds are used in sausages, pork and baked goods.

Cardamom:

Native to India. Sweet, slightly floral aroma. Use with chicken, curries, duck, lentils, meat and baked goods.

Cumin:

Seeds used whole or ground in stews, with meats and flavoring rice. An ingredient in curry powders, the pungent flavor is also frequently found in Mexican dishes.

Jan/Feb 2016

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

the Nation’s best chefs compete for your vote

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Omni Amelia Island is thrilled to host its 3rd Annual Fish to Fork event offering an unmatched “foodie” experience, including true dock-to-dish specialties in a fun, interactive atmosphere. The resort will welcome six renowned chefs from around the nation to showcase their fishing and culinary skills, ultimately tested with a live vote from event guests!

MAin Event | May 7, 2016

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6:00 PM Open Bar & Individual Chef Challenge Tasting

• Saturday Night Main Event in Magnolia Garden

7:30 PM Team Competition Begins

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8:30 PM Sample & Savor Team Dishes - then vote! 9:30 PM Announce Winners tickets to the main event - $95

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Jan/Feb 2016

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50 Shades of Green WORDS JEN HAND PHOTOS JENNA ALEXANDER

There’s a world of vegetables waiting just outside your comfort zone One bunch of Black Spanish Radishes from Blue Sky Farms

Let’s face it. We all have relationships with our food. We find security in certain edible items like we did in the teddy bear of our childhood, or the raggedy sweatshirt we’ve owned since junior year. If you are suffering from vegetable tunnel vision, seeing the same thing on your grocery list week after week, it’s time to think about shopping outside of your comfort zone. Northeast Florida farms are broadening the scope of their vegetable selection, and visibility of international and offbeat varieties has increased at local farmers’ markets, on

restaurant tables and in the produce aisles of chain supermarkets. Blue Sky Farms in Elkton is owned by Danny Johns, a fourth-generation potato farmer. A few short years ago Johns decided to start a trial garden to experiment with new varieties of produce and since then, the farm hasn’t looked back. While potatoes still reign king, other veggies have elbowed their way to a place at the table. Diversifying has worked well for Blue Sky. The farm’s Garden and Marketing Manager Megan DeJonge would have it no other way.

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Jan/Feb 2016

“I love to grow anything different or strange,” she said. Her infectious enthusiasm evident, DeJonge bounded through the rows of Japanese eggplant, red Russian kale, purple and green kohlrabi. “I just get so pumped out here!” She slashed a watermelon radish in half. “Look at this!” According to DeJonge, providing their CSA customers with new or unique items every week and experimenting with what grows best are just two reasons that Blue Sky Farms has increased production of international veggies. Cabbage and potatoes used to be the territory gatekeepers, but times change and, whether driven by necessity or choice, county farms are branching out. The number of potato farmers in the region has steadily declined as potato production has moved west to mega farms. Sykes and Cooper Farms in Elkton grew potatoes for generations, and then moved to sod in the late 1990’s (until the housing bust). They now grow a host of Asian vegetables, 85-90% of which are then shipped north and then rest is sold locally. Bucky Sykes rents about 250 acres of his family’s farm to a Chinese-owned company and plants it with these “short” (30-45 day) crops. The two or three crops per acre turn into between 600700 acres because of this turnover. Sykes is glad to be able to continue to farm on his own

Kohlrabi

Jan/Feb 2016

land. “It’s pretty good, I enjoy going to work now,” he said. Bonnie Wells is the commercial agriculture agent at the UF/IFAS St. Johns County Extension and experiences firsthand how the region is shifting. For two years, her responsibilities have included helping new and established farms with management, pesticide education and commercial production issues. Wells said she’s definitely “seeing more farmers try new things” as potato industry contracts are tough and profit margins are slim. To get you started on expanding your produce horizons, meet some of our area’s less familiar vegetable offerings with international roots. WATERMELON RADISH One evening last spring I arrived home to find my girlfriend fixing dinner. Vegetable carnage and food processor blades littered the countertop. She presented a bowl full of pink puréed something or other for me to try. “What is it?” I grabbed a carrot stick and dove in, having never met a dip or spread I didn’t like. “Beet dip!” she boasted. Only problem? We didn’t have any beets. I rechecked the “what’s in your bag” email from our CSA and realized it was a watermelon radish she used (thinking it was some kind of wacky beet). The dip was outstanding, nonetheless, and it taught us that you can annihilate whatever you want in the Cuisinart with cannellini beans, a handful of walnuts, a splash of olive oil plus maple syrup and it will most likely be grand. Cut open this Chinese heirloom variety of a daikon radish, and the dull green to white outer layer reveals a gorgeous variegated fuchsia and magenta flesh. Watermelon radishes make a beautiful presentation pickled, or just sliced for salad or a crudité platter. They’re fabulous roasted or braised as well, but lose a little of their attractive color when you cook them. DAIKON RADISH Never seen a daikon radish? Close your eyes. Picture a large carrot. Maybe one that locked itself in the library of a damp gothic castle, eating Ben & Jerry’s and reading Stephen King novels until it finally emerged blinking into the sunlight, pasty white and fattened.

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

Daikon Radish

Popular throughout Asia, daikon radishes are mild tasting and full of vitamin C. These super versatile elongated root veggies lend themselves well to stir-fries and salads and can be pickled, roasted, souped or kimchied. BLACK SPANISH RADISH The rough dark skin evokes baby rhinoceros hide, yet the outside belies a gorgeous purewhite interior. Typically pungent when raw like their many radish relatives, they’re awesome roasted and make fun-looking chips when you leave the peel on. While a naturally black-occurring vegetable may give you pause, give them a chance. Blue Sky is now offering 15 varieties of radishes to local merchants. “We were all surprised at how they took off,” DeJonge said. According to KY V Farm’s Francisco Arroyo, while some of his CSA and market customers actually ask for these idiosyncratic veggies, he looks for diversity as well. He said, “niche farming is risky and can be rewarding both economically and professionally.” Arroyo finds that most of his customers “are willing to try new things.” KOHLRABI You’ve seen it at the farmers’ market. From the smooth round bulb spring numerous long, slim arms that culminate in leafy jazz hands. It’s so very happy you picked it from

Watermelon Radishes

Napa Cabbage

the table. Stick a pair of googly eyes on it, and kohlrabi becomes a creature from outer space, or a muppet gone awry. If Steve Buscemi were a vegetable, he’d be kohlrabi. The root and leaves are edible and it’s widely consumed in German-speaking countries (the name comes from a combo of the German words for cabbage and turnip). My personal favorite way to eat kohlrabi is in a Waldorf-style salad (think mayo, apples, pecans, raisins), enjoying its broccoli-stem-esque flavor. BOK CHOY & NAPA CABBAGE Each of these cruciferous champs is common in East Asian cuisine. The name bok

choy reminds me of the old “toy boat” tongue twister (say it five times fast). If you’re nervous about trying something new, consider bok choy a gateway international veggie that you probably had. There are infinite ways to love its crunch. When a huge, oblong head of Napa cabbage recently made its way into my life, the beautiful giant green veined leaves had me yearning to curl up on its crinkled sheets and fall asleep like an Anne Geddes baby. Chop a bunch of Napa and toss it with shredded carrots, green onions, grated ginger, toasted sesame oil and rice wine vinegar for a yummy slaw option. Throw it in the wok near the end of cooking any stir-fry.

JAPANESE EGGPLANT Japanese (or Oriental) eggplants aren’t actually the premature offspring of larger, pear-shaped eggplants, but rather their thin-skinned, delicate cousins. But don’t poke fun at the scrawny little guys! They have the same nutritional value as their fatter counterparts, yet fewer seeds mean they are less bitter and peeling is optional. Get crazy-international and make a batch of baba ganoush with the slender aubergines, and you will not be sorry. One more worldrocking eggplant fact (and in case Alex Trebek ever asks): This vegetable is actually a fruit. (It’s true.) I appreciate that trying something new is tough, much like when your tween niece tells you to download a song she loves and wants to share: You’re skeptical at first, but give it a few listens and then you find yourself randomly humming it in the shower. The New Year is a perfect time to be adventurous. Visit your favorite local restaurant and order the special, or hit up one of our amazing markets for items grown in our backyard. Freshen it up, think outside the (ice) box and try a new vegetable, especially one with international roots. Know that when all else fails, olive oil, salt, pepper and 20 minutes in a 350° oven could make even a few chunks of rubber tire palatable.

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Jan/Feb 2016

Buy LOCAL GUIDE

From the farm to the table, we deliver fresh local produce and artisanal goods to customers’ homes. Customize each order to suit your taste buds with our simple online ordering. 386-753-4565 frontporchpickings.com

Florida natives selling farm fresh and boldly flavored ice pops from our vintage camper. We want to be a part of your bold story: weddings, employee appreciation, special events, tenant appreciation & more. 904-626-8101 boldcitypops.com

Eat. Drink. Shop. Local. The benefits of buying local are numerous and range from fresh, flavorful foods and unique one-of-a-kind products, to an increased sense of community and stronger regional economy.

We would like to thank our advertising partners (listed here and throughout this

Complete garden center with everything you need to create a successful, sustainable home garden and landscape! Wide variety of Florida Native plants, flowers, fruit trees, vegetables and organic seeds. Family owned and operated since 1979! 1690 A1A South St. Augustine 904-471-0440 southernhorticultureflorida.com

We offer the world’s first and only Black Garlic Vinegar made with umami-rich Black Garlic crafted right here in Northeast Florida. Come for a taste at the Old City Farmers’ Market on Saturdays at the Amphitheatre. St. Augustine 386-328-2225 386-983-4538 (cell) fred@artisanblackgarlic.com artisanblackgarlic.com

publication) whose support for Edible Northeast Florida helps make our work possible.

Please make a point of supporting these businesses and organizations.

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We are a 22-acre farm-to-fork market, open seven days a week, offering local and organic food at an affordable price. Bring the kids to meet our farm animals, or join us for cooking classes, farm feasts, and other special events.

A locally founded, owned and operated Aussie-American coffee shop with a penchant for expertly crafted direct trade espresso and singleorigin coffee. Aussie pies and baked goods made from scratch daily by a dedicated culinary team.

5780 County Road 305 Elkton 904-429-3070 rypeandreadi.com

24 Cathedral Place 101 F Street 1835 US Hwy 1 South 904-209-9391 kookaburrashop.com

Eat. Drink. Shop. | JAX

Cognito Farm is a small, sustainably managed, pasture-based farm that produces naturally wholesome, humanely raised grass-fed beef, poultry, non-GMO eggs and pork without anything artificial (antibiotics, hormones, herbicides, pesticides) on our land or in our animals.

Specialty coffee roaster with two cafés and roastery operation located in Jacksonville. Single origin, direct trade coffees and signature blends for retail and wholesale customers.

Locally owned bake shop specializing in classic pastries, artisan breads, savory pies, signature soups, sandwiches and seasonal salads.

Organic Café serving creative juices, smoothies, acai bowls and healthy bites all made fresh to order. Vegan and gluten free options. Healthy. Fresh. You.

1173 Edgewood Avenue South Jacksonville 904-634-7617 facebook.com/kneadabakeshop

1510 King Street Jacksonville 904-574-3557

915-526-1409 congareeandpenn.com

MGP makes real artisan baked goods and hand-crafted foods with honest ingredients you can trust. From pies and galettes to fresh seasonal fruit curds and spreads, find us bi-weekly at Beaches Green Market, monthly at Jaxson’s Night Market, and at various pop-ups and special events. facebook.com/mygrandmotherspie mygrandmotherspie.com

Community Loaves is an organic bakery in the historic Murray Hill neighborhood of Jacksonville. We bake sourdough breads, seasonal pastries, and serve lunch Wednesday through Sunday at the shop. 1120 Edgewood Avenue South Murray Hill 904-381-0097 communityloaves@gmail.com

Hand-Makers of Fine Ceramics since 1981. The perfect gift for food enthusiasts! Come see us at the Old City Farmers Market at the St. Augustine Amphitheater on Saturday mornings from 8:30 am - 12:30 pm, Space 68. St. Augustine 904-824-1317 westsidestudio@bellsouth.net

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Starke 904-796-8040 cognitofarm.com

2400 S. Third Street (Jax Beach) 869 Stockton Street 1179 Edgewood Avenue South 904-982-7603 boldbeancoffee.com

Located on the north side of Jacksonville, Congaree and Penn is a rice farm, a mayhaw orchard and home to a future cidery.

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Fermented pickle products, olives from around the globe and scratch-made vegan snacks. Find us at NE Florida farmers’ markets and local natural food stores. Our online store sells select products for easy, fast delivery to your door.

For over 29 years, CartWheel Ranch Meats has been raising cattle in Florida. We offer all natural grain & grass fed, pasture raised, USDA beef, pork and chicken, pet products & homemade healthy broths! Food you can trust!

We grow microgreens, petit greens and specialty produce using sustainable farming methods that combine traditional aquaculture with hydroponics. All produce is grown without the use of pesticides. Visit us!

Delicious, locally grown, and 100% certified organic produce. Fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and more available every Saturday at the Old City Farmers Market in St. Augustine. Restaurant deliveries are also available.

904-576-3718 olivemypickle.com

Sanderson 904-874-5968 cartwheelranch@gmail.com

147 Canal Boulevard Ponte Vedra Beach 203-240-7309 gyogreens.com

St. Augustine Farmers Market 352-468-3816 frogsongorganics.com

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Jan/Feb 2016

LOCAL LIBATIONS

A NEST FOR

Odd Birds WORDS LAUREN TITUS

Always on the lookout for new watering holes in the area, my ears pricked up at the mention of a place in St. Augustine. Like an ornithologist on a quest for a rare sighting, I ventured downtown one evening, and came up empty-handed. Undaunted, I returned a second night, this time with a more specific location – “across the street from the fort parking lot.” Peeking inside a courtyard that had previously been empty space behind a restaurant, I spotted it – Odd Birds! Tucked away behind an unmarked gate on Charlotte Street, the eclectic Odd Birds started as a way for co-owner/bartender Cesar Diaz to experiment and further expand the beverage palate in the region and introduce his liquid repertoire to a new audience, while having the flexibility to change up the bar program to reflect shifting consumer demand. Diaz moved to the area from Miami two years ago and is

Jan/Feb 2016

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PHOTOS KELLY CONWAY

best known locally for his creations behind the bar at The Ice Plant. As a professional bartender, Diaz sees himself as an educator and facilitator, with a true passion for mixology. He’s always ready to help customers who want to try new combinations. “I want to create an experience that lets customers step out of their comfort zone. There’s been a change in behavior with more thoughtful consumption and I want to act as a guide to help my customers explore new drink flavors.”

“We are creating a cultural bridge and an opportunity for people to explore the world’s flavors without going to another country”

Although tiny in space, Odd Birds offers a global drink menu, with bottles on the shelves representing traditional spirits from across the globe: Pisco from Brazil and Peru, fernet from Argentina, singani from Bolivia, soju from Korea, tequila from several countries, among others. Bar bites also provide a taste of the exotic: meat or vegetarian arepas from Diaz’s native Venezuela pair well with the cocktail creations. “We are creating a cultural bridge and an opportunity for people to explore the world’s flavors without going to another country,” said Diaz. While there is a South American flair, Diaz changes the bar menu every six weeks to introduce these and other foreign flavors, in combination with seasonal produce. “I treat the bar like a kitchen and I want to use local ingredients whenever possible,” said Diaz. “We have started identifying local farmers who can provide the fruits and vegetables for our menu, such as datil pepper, molasses, citrus and ginger turmeric. I am always looking for the ingredients I need to create that wow factor.” With a belief in collaboration among the bartending profession, Diaz is intent on making St. Augustine a cocktail destination. Odd Birds is part of a “cool movement in town, and not just a tourist trap,” said Diaz. Guest bartenders—or influencers, as Diaz refers to them— also bring awareness of new taste sensations to patrons at Odd Birds, and this collaboration and education between professionals in the beverage community is an important part of his mission. “So far we’ve had visiting bartenders from Jacksonville, Gainesville and Tallahassee—with two hours to show off, they bring their best and demonstrate the art of the cocktail,” said Diaz. “It’s like a lab session, brainstorming. It’s not a competition, it’s teamwork.” Unique pairings, exotic flavors, a cozy and friendly ambiance, each cocktail a conversation starter—sounds like an odd bird indeed.

Ancient Molasses Black molasses syrup can be found at local markets. INGREDIENTS 1 ½ ounces St Augustine Discovery Series # 3 Rum ½ ounces Natalie’s 100% All-Natural Lime Juice ½ ounces Indian River grapefruit juice ½ ounces black molasses syrup ½ ounces simple syrup PREPARATION Place all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake. Double strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.

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EDIBLE LANDSCAPE

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FROM THE OVEN

Citrus and Str awberry Pavlova

Pavlova is a meringue dessert that was created in honor of the famous Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova while she was on tour in Australia and New Zealand. Serves 6-8 | Recipe by Calli Marie

INGREDIENTS Pavlova: 6 egg whites ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup confectioners’ sugar PREPARATION Preheat oven to 350°; once preheated, reduce to 200°. Using a mixer, beat egg whites with cream of tartar on mediumhigh until frothy. While the mixer is on, slowly add in the granulated sugar and mix until medium peaks form. With the mixer on medium, slowly add in confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until your meringue is at stiff peaks. Spread meringue in an 8-inch circle on a parchment-lined baking sheet, making a well in the middle. The sides should be about 2 inches high and the middle about 1 inch. Bake in a 200° oven for 3 hours. Once baked, turn oven off and let pavlova cool in the oven for 2–3 hours. Note: Pavlova can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container. Citrus and Berry Topping: 1 pint strawberries, quartered 1 tangerine, zested then segmented ½ cup kumquats, thinly sliced 5 mint leaves, thinly sliced Reserved tangerine zest ¼ cup sugar

Photo by Amanda Lenhardt

Thirty minutes before you are ready to eat your pavlova, toss berries, mint, zest and sugar together. Toss in tangerines and kumquats right before topping. With a slotted spoon top pavlova with berry and citrus mixture and drizzle with the reserved fruit juices.

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Jan/Feb 2016

FROM THE OVEN

K ale and Sweet Potato Empanadas with Pumpkin Seed Chimichurri Make your empanadas small and serve them as appetizers or make them larger and add a salad for a full meal. Makes 8 | Recipe by Gaston Buschiazzo

INGREDIENTS Dough: 3¼ cups all-purpose flour ¼ teaspoon salt 1½ sticks unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 12 cubes 1 egg 4–5 tablespoons water Filling: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 onion, chopped 2 sweet potatoes, diced 1 bunch kale, washed, stems removed 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 2 tablespoons ricotta cheese (optional) 1 tablespoon coriander 1 teaspoon cumin 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar Salt Pepper

potatoes, and cook until sweet potatoes are tender. Roughly chop the kale and add to the pan. Add garlic to the pan and cook together for 3 minutes. Set aside and add the ricotta cheese if using. Mix well and add coriander, cumin, apple cider vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. While the sweet potato and kale mixture is cooling, roll out the dough into thin sheets. Use a plate or bowl to cut the dough into circles (a diameter of 4 to 6 inches works well). Spoon filling onto 1 half of each round, to leave a ¼-inch edge empty. Fold over dough into a half-moon shape. Use a fork to seal the edges

Chimichurri: 1 cup parsley leaves ½ cup cilantro leaves ½ cup pumpkin seeds ¾ cup canola oil ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper (if you like less heat, add just a pinch and gradually increase the amount to taste) 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar ½ teaspoon salt PREPARATION Preheat oven to 350°F. To make dough, mix the flour and salt in a food processor or by hand. Add the butter, egg and water until a lumpy dough forms. Form a ball, flatten slightly and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes. For the filling, in a large pan add olive oil and onions and brown for about 5–7 minutes over medium heat. Add sweet Photo Amy Robb2016 44 byJan/Feb

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and place onto an oiled baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes. While the empanadas are baking, make the Chimichurri. Place all ingredients in blender and mix until creamy. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with the empanadas. Buen provecho! TIP: If short on time, you can use nearly any kind of dough for empanadas: pizza dough, biscuit dough, piecrust dough or store-bought empanada rounds.

ANK YOU

Felipe Sardi

{La Palma y El Tucán} Cundinamarca, Colombia

[

THE FACES OF BOLD BEAN

]

At Bold Bean Coffee Roasters, there’s a story – and a face – behind every cup of our selectively sourced, farmer direct, specialty coffees. Faces such as that of specialty coffee innovator Felipe Sardi, one of our growing community of Bold Bean producer partners. Felipe and his wife, Elisa, founded their La Palma y El Tucán operation with an eye toward revolutionizing production practices in their native Colombia. Borrowing from and building on best practices used in wine production and modern farming methods, coupled with farm workers paid for quality over quantity, their innovative approach is a daily demonstration that great coffee doesn’t just happen.

ENJOY FRESH,

locally-sourced gastropub fare. BEERS

20+ on tap, 27+ bottles and cans. HANDCRAFTED

cocktails and friendly wine list. HAPPY HOUR

Monday - Friday 3 - 7 PM. P: 904.396.2344 KITCHENONSANMARCO.COM 1 4 0 2 S A N M A R C O B LV D JACKSONVILLE • FLORIDA

Real Coffee Since 2007 Riverside • Jax Beach • Murray Hill

RETAIL • WHOLESALE • ONLINE www.boldbeancoffee.com

Kitchen on San Marco supports Culinard, the Culinary Institute of Virginia College.

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Get to know the farmers in the Finger Lakes, the artisans of Michiana, the vintners in Vancouver and more as we serve up the best local food stories from the fields and kitchens of edible communities. edible BLUE RIDGE

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LAST BITE

W When culinary cultures collide in Northeast Florida, our taste buds reap the rewards. From food trucks to fine dining, global flavors have found their way onto local menus and mingle on our palates, as our regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best chefs blend international influences with Southern charm. The delicious results demonstrate that food and flavors do not stand still; a regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary culture is always a work in progress.

Chef and co-owner, Sam Efron, draws inspiration for his restaurant menu from rustic Italian cuisine.

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LAST BITE

At Restaurant Orsay, Executive Chef Brian Whittington puts a southern spin on traditional French bistro food.

For more photos and essays featuring restaurants in our region, visit Off the Line at EdibleNEFlorida.com. 48

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