Taking Root by Edible Northeast Florida

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

ISSUE ONE | September-October 2015

DIRT-FR EE FA R MING • K IDS & FOOD • DEFINING LOC A L • BEE HER E NOW

Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season

No.1 September-October 2015

Member of Edible Communities

Painting by local artist Gayle Prevatt Page design by David Franz - davidjfranz.com

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Contents DEPARTMENTS 2

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

4 CONTRIBUTORS 6

EDIBLE INNOVATORS Tidal Craft Ice Mayhaw Cider

EDIBLE TABLE What's In Season

SEASONAL PLATE Cajun Okra Gumbo Eggplant Stacks

BACK OF THE HOUSE Home Cooking for the Homeless

LOCAL LIBATIONS A Toast to Seasonal Sipping

EDIBLE DIY Sourdough Starter

EDIBLE LANDSCAPE Growing the Good Life

FROM THE OVEN Ginger Apple Pear Pie Peanut Butter Spice Cookies

EDIBLE NOTEBOOK The Shrimpers

48 LAST BITE Brunch

FEATURES 8

WHAT IT MEANS TO EAT LOCAL Turns Out, Nobody Really Knows

16 BEE HERE NOW The Buzz On Local Pollinators 22 EDIBLE SHOW AND TELL Teaching Kids to Love Real Food 33 DIRT-FREE FARMING New Methods of Farming are Taking Root

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Welcome to the inaugural issue of Edible Northeast Florida. Six months ago, seeds were planted to create a community-driven publication dedicated to presenting the story of food in our region, and shortly after began a collaboration between writers, farmers, artisans, photographers, food advocates, chefs and so many others engaged in conversations about what we eat, how it’s produced and where it’s sourced. What you’ll find in this magazine is a curation of extraordinary local talent and creativity, mixed with an unyielding passion for great food: the stories that are defining our local food culture. In upcoming issues, you’ll also see the magazine’s coverage continually extend its reach into various cities and towns throughout the region. We believe bringing good food to our plates requires a network of community interactions, each connected regionally to one another and each with a story that’s worthy of exploration. If there’s one thing we heard over and over again as our inaugural issue took shape, it’s that our local food community is alive, energized, active and diverse. Efforts to create a sustainable local food system are taking root and growing. Together with our region’s family farms, chefs, artisans and purveyors, our goal is to engage more and more readers in thinking about the food they eat and celebrating everything it has come to represent. And because this is our first issue, we are starting at the beginning. We ask what do we mean by “local” and why does it matter? We explore the role bees play in launching food production and what we can do to help them thrive. We discuss kids and how to get them involved with food at an early age. Then finally, we look at new farming methods in our region and how they could change our growing seasons and access to fresh food at home, in restaurants and at local markets. But enough of the appe-teasers. It’s time for the main entrée. We invite you to join us at the table, to get to know your food and to support the local family farms and businesses that produce it. Let us hear from you – online, via mail, through social media, in the markets, on the streets, or in the fields – about topics that are of interest. At Edible Northeast Florida, we are setting forth to discover the real food heroes in our region and provide a resource for ongoing discussions about food. Let’s work together to foster a healthy, regional food system that nourishes our community, our economy and, of course, our bodies.

PUBLISHER Amy Robb amy@edibleneflorida.com EDITOR Lauren Titus lauren@edibleneflorida.com COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson DESIGN Matthew Freeman PHOTOGRAPHY Kristen Penoyer, Kate Gardiner, Sean Kelly Conway, Shannon LeDuke, Amy Robb CONTRIBUTORS Amy Bailey, Adam Burnett, Meredith Corey-Disch, Katie Evans, Lisa Farese, Jen Hand, Jason McDonald, Brenna Noel Martin, Jennifer Myers , Jeffrey Spear, Calli Marie Webb, Nancy White SUBSCRIBE Edible Northeast Florida is published 6 times per year by Slidetray Media LLC. Subscriptions are $28 and available at edibleneflorida.com. FIND US ONLINE edibleneflorida.com facebook.com/edibleneflorida.com instagram.com/edibleneflorida.com twitter.com/edibleneflorida.com pinterest.com/edibleneflorida.com CONTACT US Have a story you'd like to see featured in Edible Northeast Florida? Send us your ideas! editor@edibleneflorida.com Edible Northeast Florida 24 Cathedral Place, Suite 406 St. Augustine, FL 32084 p. 904-494-8281 No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. © 2015 Slidetray Media LLC. All rights reserved.

2011 Publications of the Year Edible Communities

ON THE COVER: Taking Root from the Ground Up Illustration by Brenna Noel Martin

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Proudly printed on recycled paper stock at Hartley Press in Jacksonville, Florida.

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Adam Burnett

Amy Bailey

Brenna Noel Martin

Calli Marie Webb

After training and working at bakeries in Oregon, Adam moved back to Florida to bake for his family’s coffee shop. Several years later, the company expanded and opened Knead: A Bakeshop in the Murray Hill neighborhood of Jacksonville. Knead serves breakfast and lunch and an array of sweet and savory pastries. Their pastries can also be found at both Bold Bean Coffee locations.

A St. Augustine native, Amy is a fulltime personal trainer and nutrition coach at GO Headquarters. She also writes a healthy lifestyle blog called The Funky Fork. In her spare time, she enjoys doing anything active with her husband and son, cooking from scratch, gardening and online shopping.

Born and raised in a small town near Cape Canaveral, this Florida native is undeniably creative to the core and acquired a degree in graphic design + fine art from Flagler College. When she’s not busy designing up a storm, Brenna enjoys doodling unsuspecting strangers, exploring hidden gems in Jacksonville, getting into shenanigans with friends and planning her next big expedition

With a passion for making people happy with the sweeter things in life, Calli has made serious waves in the Jacksonville food scene during her five short years as a professional baker. She currently manages the food program for BREW Five Points where she develops delicious weekly specials to complement specialty coffee and craft beer.

Lisa Farese

Jeffrey Spear

Jen Hand

Jennifer Myers

While getting her start writing for publications at Shands Hospital at the University of Florida as a student, Lisa went on to write for both regional and national publications. Additionally, she is an adjunct professor of communications at Flagler College. While she enjoys covering an array of topics, her areas of expertise include health, education and parenting.

Jeffrey is the President of Studio Spear, an award-winning marketing consultancy specializing in food manufacturing and foodservice industries. An accomplished writer, Jeff reports and comments upon industry dynamics and the latest culinary trends; his most recent book is The First Coast Heritage Cookbook. Jeffrey appears on television as "The Gadget Guy," presenting essential culinary tools, unusual gadgets and fundamental cooking techniques.

Jen is a freelance writer based in St. Augustine. Her work has appeared in the St. Augustine Record and Folio Weekly, and she currently blogs for RoadBikeOutlet.com. A former short order cook, caterer, bartender and baker, she loves her CSA and farmers’ markets, and may have a slight cookbook problem. When not eating copious amounts of vegetables, Jen is found running trails, paddling the Intracoastal or playing soccer.

Jenn is the owner and operator of Juniper Market on San Marco Avenue in St. Augustine. She left the corporate world to pursue her passion for slow foods, and enjoys working with local vendors and creating recipes that highlight simple and seasonal ingredients.

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OUR CONTRIBUTORS

K ate Gardiner

Sean Kelly Conway

Kristen Penoyer

K atie Evans

Kate Gardiner has spent the last 20 years as a photojournalist documenting life as she experiences it. She received her Bachelor’s Degree in Media Arts from the University of Arizona and still misses the desert when it rains. Kate shares her life with her husband and three rambunctious sons and currently lives, works and eats in St. Augustine.

Flagler grad and St. Augustine native, Kelly spent several years honing his documentary and street photography skills while working and traveling around Asia, before getting cozy in St. Augustine (although the horizons still beckon). When not bothering shrimpers, Kelly can be found digging through anthropological field recordings, chasing surf, photographing motel signage and giving historic photo tours in downtown St. Augustine.

Kristen is a professional photographer and self-professed “food nerd” with a passion for documenting the culinary world from seed to plate. A serial creative, she’s launched several photography-related businesses. Kristen has lived in five countries, crushed grapes under her feet in Argentina, spent days on goat farms, educated by South American sommeliers and mastered the art of Uruguayan wood coal grilling.

Katie is an artist and designer currently residing in St. Augustine. She graduated from Flagler College with a double major in Graphic Design and Fine Art and will be working on obtaining a BFA in the fall.

Meredith CoreyDisch

Nancy White

Shannon LeDuke

The McDonalds

Nancy writes about food and its place in our culture in her blog Nourish The Beast. A resident of Ponte Vedra, she writes the weekly Dining Notes column for the Florida Times-Union, and is a regular contributor to Arbus magazine. Her book, Jacksonville Food Trucks, Stories and Recipes From the Road is available at all local booksellers. Follow her on Instagram @nourish_the_beast

Shannon, a fourth-generation Jacksonville resident, is an Associate Producer at WJCT Public Broadcasting with a passion for telling unique Floridian stories. She earned her bachelor's degree in communication with an emphasis in journalism and media production from Flagler. Shannon's written work has appeared in Jacksonville Magazine, Real Simple and Young Hollywood, among other publications

Inspired by his passion for healthy living, Jason strated FreshJax as a way to share health and happiness with those around him. As co-owner of FreshJax and a Certified Master Yoga Teacher, Hillary’s mission is to create a sense of joy, happiness, and well-being in others through yoga classes and workshops. She also teaches yoga as an adjunct professor at UNF.

Meredith is baker/co-owner of Community Loaves, an organic sourdough bakery in Murray Hill. She learned to bake while traveling in Europe. Upon returning to her hometown Jacksonville, she wanted to start a business that combined her environmental studies degree and newfound love of baking. She now spends days at the bread shop and evenings at home with her fiancé Murphy and dog Dinah.

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EDIBLE INNOVATORS

TIDAL CRAFT ICE WORDS AND PHOTO AMY ROBB

From shrubs to tinctures, muddled basil to egg white foam, the nation’s cocktail revolution is in full swing -- and we’ll drink to that. A new generation of cocktail connoisseurs has emerged, replacing faux-colored, high-fructose-corn-syrup mixers with fresh ingredients that are muddled, stirred, shaken and strained to perfection. This fall, as our region’s thirst for craft drinks continues to rise, another handcrafted product will make its debut on the market. From the makers of Bold City Pops in Jacksonville comes Tidal Craft Ice, a new farmto-freezer concept that perhaps most closely resembles a cocktail cube. While often overlooked for its usefulness, the farm-to-freezer process is a clever natural alternative to preservatives in products like mixers. It allows fruits and vegetables to be picked at their peak, preserving both their flavor and nutritional value, while also providing farmers an additional way to make use of surplus harvests during high-yield times of the year. With locally sourced flavors like Mint Mojito, Blueberry Lemonade, Peach Bellini and Citra Milano (a delicious, herby blend of rosemary, thyme and Florida citrus), Tidal Craft Ice is sure to delight your swilling sensibilities, if cool and fruity is your thing. Simply drop a cube into a glass, add spirits and drink. Indeed, it’s just that easy. While it’s not a craft cocktail, per se, it’s a craft cocktail cube for certain, and if you want a mixer that keeps well without ingredients you can’t pronounce, this may just be your new quick fix for mix.

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EDIBLE INNOVATORS

Mayhaw Cider WORDS AMY ROBB PHOTO SCOTT MEYER

Ask any Southerner with deep roots in the region if they've ever heard of mayhaws â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and there's a good chance you'll get a story. Aunt Mable's mayhaw jelly on warm biscuits. Memories of a mayhaw orchard in bloom. Grandpa's homemade mayhaw hooch. In the shadows of our region's great food traditions lingers a faint recollection of this tart and tangy fruit just waiting to be discovered again, and one local farmer has taken note. Scott Meyer and his team at Congaree and Penn Farm are cultivating a mayhaw revival. Known mostly as the farm that grows rice, Congaree and Penn has quietly been working to bring mayhaws into production for almost a year. Though native mayhaw species were known for their ability to grow in swamps throughout our region, mayhaws have also proven themselves to be a promising orchard crop, producing small, round fruit (roughly the size of cranberries) ready for harvest in late-April, early May (hence the name, mayhaw). When eaten straight from a tree, the fruit is puckering. But when crafted into homemade jams, jellies, syrups or wine, mayhaws are downright delicious. This spring, Congaree and Penn grafted high-yield Louisiana mayhaw scions onto Florida root stock, successfully creating a cultivar they've already begun growing just north of Jacksonville. Soon they'll have over 1500 trees planted and the largest commercial grove in the region. The goal? To produce Northeast Florida's first (and only) Mayhaw Cider. While cider from the farm's cidery won't officially be ready until autumn of 2016, keep your ears open for mention of mayhaw soda this winter and your eyes peeled for hand-crafted mayhaw products at farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets next spring. We predict this snappy, native fruit will soon be winning the hearts of Northeast Floridians once again, claiming its rightful place amidst local culinary legends.

Juniper 5 6 a s a n m ar co av e nue s ain t aug us tine , flor ida w w w . j uniper -mar k et .c om edibleneflorida.com

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Jeff McNally, co-owner of The Floridian in St. Augustine, on delivery day with a basket of farm-fresh, local peaches.

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WHAT IT MEANS TO

Eat Local Turns out, nobody really knows

WORDS JEFFREY SPEAR PHOTOS KRISTEN PENOYER, KATE GARDINER & AMY ROBB

When it comes to what we put on our plates, “local” is all the rage. Food that is locally produced, marketed and consumed is generating increased interest from consumers throughout the United States, and in Northeast Florida, we’re no exception. Our growing desire to “eat local” has given rise to a network of farmers’ markets throughout the region; the robust proliferation of small, entrepreneurial food-related enterprises; and a community more engaged and connected than ever before around the table. And yet, in the face of all these advances, lingering uncertainty remains. We’re told that buying local is a good thing to do. We hear that eating local is helpful. But when it comes to really understanding the value of buying close to home, the one thing no one seems to know is: What, exactly, does “local” mean?

DEFINING LOCAL There is no universal definition of what “local” food means, though locavores might argue the magic number is 100 miles. A clause in the 2008 Food and Farm Act also stipulates that products which travel less than 400 miles from their original point of origin or are produced within the same state can be called “locally or regionally produced,” so

when consumers read “local” on labels, social media or even billboards, there’s no real way of knowing how the “localness” of that product or service is being defined. For some consumers, “local” refers specifically to food grown within a certain region, generally reasonably close to the place they identify as home. For others, “local” food is associated with natural, organic and other specialty products marketed through grocers or restaurants or handcrafted food makers. For others yet, there’s a social component; buying “local” means knowing and supporting the people and businesses that have had a hand in bringing food to their table. National proponents suggest “local” is only a matter of geography, and therefore, when we think of eating and drinking local, our definition must include producers of all kinds—farmers, ranchers, fishers—in addition to individuals and institutions engaged

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Slow Food First Coast, a regional organization dedicated to transforming food policy and production practices, “We are noticing younger moms are cooking more often, and they express real concerns about the integrity of the foods they use at home. The more they know, the more they are beginning to change their buying habits.”

in producing, processing, distributing and selling food in a given region. Of course, while it might seem silly to overthink the term “local,” the problem with leaving it fuzzy is that if we can’t define what it means, even in general terms, we also can’t define its relative value to our health, our communities and our economy. FOOD SYSTEMS In Northeast Florida, we needn’t look too far back to see how one wave of the “local” movement started. It was at Henry Flagler’s famous Ponce de León Hotel in St. Augustine. With a growing number of guests, Flagler needed more fresh vegetables. He collaborated with Thomas Hastings (a relative of the architect) to establish a nearby farming community to supply his ventures. What started as a small, diversified, farming district in the late 1800s has been renamed Hastings, and today is recognized for large-scale production of potatoes, cabbage and onions. Flagler regarded food not in terms of individual products or services but as an entire food system—a network of mutually beneficial relationships that support one another in growing a regional economy. Not only would excessive transportation and long-term storage diminish the quality of products served to guests, sourcing at a distance also passed

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over opportunities to create local jobs and cultivate a new market of consumers willing and able to buy their own region’s products. In short, buying too much produce from afar didn’t make good business sense. And some make that same argument today. Is it possible to eat 100% local all the time? With diligence and a bit of creativity, yes. But is it practical, given the demands of modern day society? Maybe not so much. That doesn’t mean, however, that a shift in the direction of “local” isn’t both doable and desirable. LOCAL MEANS KNOWING YOUR FOOD There is a new generation of food makers who recognize the need for a systemic, sustainable approach to cultivation and production of food, and it is perhaps this generation of “real food” advocates who best understand the value of, and challenges within, our shifting paradigms. Every day they are responding to consumer demands for locally grown food, traceable to its source, humane and sustainable in its production, while also battling the market realities of providing such products (often at slightly higher prices, or in locations that aren’t as convenient for shoppers). The good news for these growers and producers is that consumer trends are shifting and participation is definitely on the rise. According to Mimi Iannuzzi, leader of

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LOCAL MEANS BIG-PICTURE THINKING The irony of “eating local,” of course, is that it requires some serious big-picture thinking. Gone are the days when we had the time to grow all our own food and lifestyles that allowed us to manage its use throughout the seasons. Charming and quaint as it might sound, small farming in Northeast Florida isn’t an easy go, nor is running a small food business committed to sourcing local. There are real and serious business challenges—like pricing products competitively and reducing spoilage rates when food isn’t sold, teaching consumers the value of what’s being provided and finding time to “market” your goods. Thankfully, the number of local farms and producers is growing, and with that growth will eventually come a few efficiencies. Slowly but surely, thinking in terms of food systems will yield returns and the value of these produers’ big-picture planning will pay off. LOCAL MEANS INNOVATION AND CONSERVATION One of the most easily overlooked elements of the “eat local” movement is the incredible innovation that comes as growers and producers look for solutions to food system challenges. Every year, local farms are finding new ways to produce new products from what might otherwise be considered waste. Twinn Bridges Farm, for example, maintains a recycling program that converts vegetable oil (from the restaurants they supply) into bio-fuel and extracts glycerin as a by-product, which is then used to make natural soap. Cognito Farm, a protein powerhouse is producing sustainable beef, pork, poultry and eggs while eliminating the need for excessive use of antibiotics or growth hormones just by caring more humanely for their animals. But growers and producers aren’t the only local advocates invested in this new way of thinking. Chefs and restaurateurs are increasingly active proponents of the

DID YOU KNOW? A typical American meal contains ingredients from five foreign countries?

Farmers’ markets enable farmers to keep roughly 80 to 90 cents of each dollar spent by the consumer.

Even domestically grown produce travels an average of 1,500 miles before it is sold.

Florida ranked 48 out of 51 on this year’s 2015 National Locavore Index, spending the lowest dollar amount per capita on “local” food of any state in the nation.

Buying local helps protect genetic diversity. There is little genetic diversity in the produce grown to meet commercial standards. Plant varieties are chosen for their ability to ripen uniformly, withstand harvesting, survive packing and last a long time on the shelf. Only a few hybrid varieties of fruits and vegetables consistently meet those demands.

Local food keeps taxes down. According to several studies by the American Farmland Trust, farms contribute more in taxes than they require in services, whereas most development contributes less in taxes than the cost of required services.

David Griffis of Cognito Farm in Starke, Florida and his prized hog (left); A peek inside one of Cognito’s mobile coops, moved periodically to fertilize pasture for the farm’s grass-fed cattle.

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movement as well. As the most prevalent public face of food in our communities, their leadership is essential. Sustainable, local food practices require innovation, and a commitment to conservation. “Implementing conservation is not easy. We need to be extremely proactive and diligent to achieve our goals,” says Tom Gray, Moxie’s owner and chef. “We’ve instituted all sorts of conservation practices and invested in infrastructure that most people never see with the goal of producing the smallest carbon footprint achievable. While none of this is mandatory, we do it because it’s the right thing to do.” Chef Jeff McNally at The Floridian in St. Augustine embraces similar practices. According to McNally, “We showcase locally crafted and locally grown ingredients every day, not only because buying local is good for the community, but because these foods are interesting, delicious and fun.” LOCAL MEANS COMMUNITY It’s impossible to understand the significance of buying “local” without also understanding the contributions our region’s farmers’ markets have made to the movement. Weekly gatherings of producers and consumers have become the iconic activity associated with “buying local”—and they enjoy a reputation for being true to what we believe is good

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about sourcing food from people we “know and trust.” Farmers’ markets are not only places of commerce, but Award-winning Chef also of community. Tom Gray of Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails It shou ld be in Jacksonville. noted, it’s not always safe to assume that every farmers’ market in our region features vendors who source produce directly from a local farm. Markets that sell goods from various locations (with sources sometimes unknown to the sellers) still provide tremendous value to customers by making fresh food available in areas that might otherwise lack access, but some critics contend there’s a need for greater transparency in the transaction. The logic goes like this: If local farms aren’t supplying food directly to the market, then markets shouldn’t be called local farmers’ markets. Instead they should be more accurately described as produce markets. Some farmers’ markets in the region are taking a proactive approach by clearly defining parameters for its vendors. The largest market of this type is Beaches Green Market in Neptune Beach, which requires vendors to grow at least 75% of their offerings with the balance sourced directly from nearby growers. No store-bought items are allowed for resale, and vendors are directly accountable for knowing exactly where the food they are selling is sourced. Similarly, the Riverside Arts Market seeks to improve access to locally produced foods in Jacksonville’s urban core. Vendors must operate within a 100-mile radius of the city and are limited to products grown only on premises.

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LIVING LOCAL So what do all these swirling dynamics have to do with living “local” day to day? We’re not sure. What we do know is that “local” food is about so much more than food. How Florida’s First Coast chooses to define “local” will ultimately be shaped by the conversations we have, the decisions we make and the investments we choose to stand behind as a community. These are the things that will eventually define our region’s “local food” movement. As our region continues to develop an answer, it’s important to keep asking the questions: Where does this food come from? How was it grown or processed? Do I know and trust the maker of this product? Are these foods grown with a sustainable future in mind? Beyond odometer readings and borders on a map, it seems that living local is about building community, preserving farmland and making our food system more transparent to everyone. It’s about building a sense of social connectedness, a feeling of mutual exchange and a relationship between a consumer and a vendor. In its simplest form, it’s about knowing your food and trusting the people who make it.

LEARN MORE Slow Food First Coast SlowFoodFirstCoast.org Florida Organic Growers FOGinfo.org DigLocal DigLocal.org Your Local IFAS Extension Office sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/map/index.shtml Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services FreshfromFlorida.com

EDIBLE TABLE

What’s in Season?

These days, grocery stores present a full array of fruits and vegetables no matter the time of year. Here’s a shopping guide to highlight the produce and seafood currently in season in Northeast Florida. Growing methods such as hydroponics can extend seasons, so you may also see other types of produce on occasion. Determining what’s available at your local fish market presents different considerations. Many fish species are managed using seasonal closures to protect spawning aggregations of fish. Also, when a fishery reaches the annual catch limit, the fishery will close.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Groupers Shrimp Snook Black Sea Bass Vermilion Snapper Greater Amberjack Red Porgy Mackerel Tilefish Gray Triggerfish Wahoo Sheepshead

Information provided by Florida Department of Agriculture, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, South Atlantic Fishery Management Council and other sources. Photo by Amy Robb

PRODUCE Arugula Avocado Basil Beans Blackberry Chives Cucumber Eggplant Garlic chives Grapefruit Hot Peppers Marjoram Mint Muscadine grape Mushroom Nectarine Okinawa spinach Okra Oregano Parsley Pear Pecan Peppers Persimmon Pomegranate Radish Rosemary Shiso Squash Sweet Potato Thyme Tomatoes Watermelon

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SEASONAL PLATE

Cajun Okr a Gumbo Serve this flavorful stew with brown rice and a tossed salad for a hearty, veggie-packed dinner. Serves 6 | Recipe by Jason McDonald

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INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

2 tablespoons brown rice flour 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 small onions, diced 4 minced garlic cloves 3 carrots, sliced Âź cup water 1 green bell pepper, diced 1 yellow bell pepper, diced 4 cups sliced mushrooms 1 cup purĂŠed tomatoes 1 cup diced tomatoes 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning 1 tablespoon dried sage leaf 2 cups cooked red beans 2 cups sliced okra 2 cups vegetable stock

In a large pot over medium-low heat, roast the brown rice flour and olive oil into a roux, stirring frequently. Once the roux has darkened, set the mixture aside in a separate bowl away from heat.

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In the same large pot, combine onions, garlic, carrots and water. Cover and cook on medium heat until the vegetables are tender, approximately 10 minutes. Add bell peppers, mushrooms, tomatoes and spices. Stir well, cover and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Add the beans, okra and vegetable stock. Then, stir the rice flour roux back into the pot. Increase heat to medium-high until the stew reaches a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover and let the flavors meld for 10 minutes. Add additional water or vegetable stock if a thinner stew is desired.

Photo by Kristen Penoyer

Eggplant Stacks Eggplant stacks are a lighter, fresher take on eggplant parmesan. This dish lets the texture and flavor of the eggplant shine through without getting lost in a sea of breading and oil. Serves 4 | Recipe by Jennifer Myers INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

2 large eggplants 4 eggs 2 tablespoons water 1 cup Congaree & Penn Farm Coarse Rice Flour (can substitute panko breadcrumbs) 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper Olive oil Simple Tomato Sauce (recipe below) 1 (1-pound) ball fresh mozzarella 1 cup shredded parmesan

Cut eggplant into ½-inch-thick medallions. Spread eggplant slices between double layers of paper towels and plates to press out moisture. This should take 45 minutes. During this time, prepare the egg wash, breading and tomato sauce. Preheat oven to 425°. Grease parchment-lined baking sheets with 2 tablespoons of olive oil each. Whisk 4 eggs with 2 tablespoons water in pie plate. Mix rice flour with salt and pepper in another pie plate. Dip eggplant in egg wash, then in flour mixture, coating both sides evenly, and lay in a single layer across the baking sheet. Do not crowd. Drizzle another 2 tablespoons olive oil over top. Bake for 16–20 minutes, flipping slices midway. To assemble the stacks, layer eggplant, sauce and cheese then repeat four more times on the prepared baking sheets. Return to oven and bake at 475° F for 15 minutes or until cheese is melted and brown.

Simple Tomato Sauce INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes 2 tablespoons butter ½ sweet onion, peeled Salt Pepper

Heat all ingredients together over medium heat. Simmer for 45 minutes, then purée with stick blender until onion is broken up. Salt and pepper as needed.

Photo by Amy Robb

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Bo Sterk, President of the St. Johns County Beekeepers Association, tends to his hives outside of St. Augustine.

BEE HERE NOW The Buzz on Local Pollinators WORDS JEN HAND PHOTOS KRISTEN PENOYER

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Are you under appreciating honey bees? Bees, for me, have always been just kind of there. Doing their job and staying below the radar. Like my car’s tires. And my mom. Until a few years ago, that is, when news articles and documentaries featuring honey bees and a looming “bee-pocalypse” were everywhere. Did you know one third of the food we eat comes from insectpollinated plants, and honey bees pollinate 80% of all the fruit, vegetable and seed crops produced in the U.S.? This winged workforce is responsible for billions of agricultural dollars, and without these little farmhands our diets would be bland indeed. Many of Florida’s biggest cash crops like citrus, berries, melon and squash depend on honey bees and we are one of the top honey-producing states every year. For the past decade across the nation and world, bees have been vanishing at alarming and unprecedented rates. But do we still need to worry about honey bees today? Colony collapse disorder (CCD), the official name of that epidemic of bee die-offs, sounds catastrophic because it is. While there is no single cause of CCD, it is instead the sum of all its parts: pesticides that confuse, maim and kill bees; monoculture farming; habitat disappearance; poor nutrition; stress; extreme weather; disease and invasive hive insects like the Varroa destructor (a nasty parasitic mite with a name more evil than a Harry Potter villain). Florida’s temperate climate is perfect for bees and while our colony losses may buck the national trend of loss between 30–40% every year, we are still susceptible. The upside in the Sunshine State is that from commercial outfits with hundreds of hives to backyard hobbyists, registered beekeepers here number nearly 4,000 and rising. Jacksonville resident and urban beekeeper Justin Stubblefield started his honey business when he graduated from high school. While many teenagers might covet the latest electronic device or tech gadget, five years ago Stubblefield used his 16th birthday money to buy a beehive. Initially curious about the white wooden boxes he saw stacked on the roadside, when Stubblefield discovered they held bees, he researched everything he could on the subject. He found out his neighbors who grew vegetables needed help with pollinating, while news of widespread devastation from colony collapse disorder and other issues also motivated him. The bespectacled youth started harvesting wildflower honey, then selling it when the inspiration arrived to fuse organic fruits with

creamed honey (as a vehicle for those who may not enjoy the taste of “regular” honey). Stubbee’s Honey is now offered at markets and shops across Northeast Florida, including Winn-Dixie stores as part of their Winn-Local program. Stubblefield obviously enjoys his work and realizes “if you’re going to do something for the rest of your life, do something you love.” He’s also quick to add, “Why not try to make it into something that gives back?” Increasingly, younger folks are getting involved, but attend any local beekeepers meeting on the First Coast and you will see more grey hair than at a Crosby, Stills and Nash concert. Artist and educator Bo Sterk is the president of the St. Johns County Beekeepers Association, and also represents the Northeast Florida district in the state association. A master beekeeper, he began his studies 20 years ago to help a friend treat her multiple sclerosis with apitherapy (using bee products as medicine) and then got hooked. “It’s addictive once you get going in it,” Sterk said. The day we met at his hives in west St. Augustine, bees mostly ignored me, the interloper, and whizzed around on task as Sterk checked his hives. This was not when I got stung. As we chatted about the hives he keeps “for research, observation and manipulation,” Sterk hustled over to a nearby tree. A bee mass the size and shape of a football had swarmed onto a limb. Sterk stuck his hand into the swarm and instantly found the queen. He isolated her along with a couple of attendant bees in a cute little screened-in “queen box” that he grabbed from his small white pickup truck/bee office. He instructed me to reach my arm out. Then, with the speed and sleight of hand of a magician palming a card, he flicked his wrist and dozens of bees instantly covered my right hand. The entire episode lasted approximately 127 seconds, and I thought I played it pretty cool. This was not when I got stung, either. On this day Sterk was trying essential oils he’d heard were a good defense against Varroa mites and hive beetles. Neither of us wore veils or bee suits. He stuffed pine needles into a shiny metal smoker, squeezed the bellows and a cloud of smoke settled on top of a hive. He removed a frame and pointed out newly laid eggs, tiny as grains of rice, nestled in some of the cells. This was when I got stung. The first one? Tip of the nose. I bit my lip, casually backed away from the busy beekeeper (who was still working) and strolled a few steps away. Then, Boom. Side of the neck. Boom. Back of the arm. The girls were riled up, now. Was this immersion journalism? I may or may not have yelped, and Sterk casually offered a veil. Feeling gutless, I put it on. He put one on too, but that may have been to make me feel better. One more sting on the pad of my left thumb as we walked away

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edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

from the hives to continue our interview elsewhere on the property. That one hurt. But I persevered in the name of journalism. Every beehive has a breeding queen and a few thousand male drones who hang around waiting to mate with her. Among the same hive the rest of the bees are female workers. In the height of the season, these industrious insect heroines are 50,000 stepsisters working for the good of the colony. Taking jobs defined by their age, in the hive they toil as nurses, housekeepers, construction workers, royal attendants, undertakers, HVAC techs, gate guards and foragers that leave in search of nectar, pollen and water. The labor never ends for these mini Cinderellas, and there certainly is no dance with Prince Charming at midnight. In her lifetime, a single honey bee worker produces 1/12th of a teaspoon of honey. She will only live for weeks in the busy summer months, a bit longer in the winter. Groups like the St. Johns County Beekeepers Association are an amazing source of information for novice beekeepers and the community. They recently outgrew their meeting space and now gather at the St. Johns County Agricultural Extension Center. The organization maintains an apiary there and holds workshops and hands-on demonstrations. The Ag Center also sells honey harvested from the hives. Beekeepers know the importance of their mission and love to share their knowledge. One thing Stubblefield tries to do when he speaks to local kids in places like the Children’s Community Garden at Jarboe Park and elementary schools is perform a “cleanup act for the bad impression bees made.” He takes a few minutes to clear the air of beerelated fears and previous misconceptions. Sterk and the St. Johns County group do similar kinds of outreach. Involved with the Plant native plants! Try herbs, University of Florida Honey Bee trees, shrubs and flowers. Basil, Research and Extension Lab, lemon balm, mint, rosemary, Sterk periodically travels to the gallberry, silverthorn, cosmos, Caribbean to consult and help salvia and blue daze are all establish best bee practices. He great choices. wrote a comprehensive manual • Provide a fresh water source. for beekeepers in Haiti and has • Buy local honey. been involved in UF's Bee Lab's • Support a local food system; buy from small-scale farms Bee College (held every year at that are not as likely to sites throughout the state and engage in monoculture. the Caribbean). • Cut down or eliminate If keeping bees is not an op pesticide use. tion for you, there are other ways • If you must use pesticides, to further their cause. try not to use powders, as they can stick to bees’ legs. Kim Robertson circled the Apply later in the evening plant yard at Southern Horti when bees are less active. culture in St. Augustine. She • If you see a swarm, call a patiently pointed at herbs, an beekeeper for advice and/ nuals, perennials and shrubs or assistance. that appeal to bees. As we spoke, Learn more. Contact a local dozens of honey bees worked the beekeeper association. colorful blossoms of the nurs-

HIVE TALKIN’ BEE A HERO

ery’s plants, the pollen baskets on their legs laden with bright yellow pollen. “All you need is a four-foot patch of flowers and it will attract them,” she said. She added that providing fresh water in shallow dishes is helpful too. Bees not only drink the water, they use it to cool down hives when it is hot. Robertson is a master gardener and has worked at this organic nursery and garden center for 10 years. She began beekeeping four years ago when her avocado tree was not being pollinated. Now with nine hives at her home in south St. Augustine, she gives talks on bees and the plants they love for credits toward her master beekeeper certification. She also serves as a board member of the St. Johns County Beekeepers Association. “We’re constantly trying to bring more information to the public,” Robertson said. The next time you see a bee, remember to give it a nod of thanks. Even if honey is not (in) your cup of tea, surely you enjoy eating something bees pollinate. We can’t afford to underappreciate our bees. We need them and they need us. So be a hero. Make Bees your friends.

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Sept/Oct 2015

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BACK OF THE HOUSE

Home Cooking

FOR THE HOMELESS Sulzbacher Center chef turns donations into dinner WORDS LAUREN TITUS PHOTO AMY ROBB

Among the many individuals in Northeast Florida working hard to make fresh, nutritious food accessible to all is Kurt D’Aurizio. While it is not unusual for the food industry to give back to the community, it’s rare for an executive chef to apply his skills every day to a facility exclusively dedicated to serving the homeless. D’Aurizio is executive chef and kitchen manager at the Sulzbacher Center in downtown Jacksonville, the only place in Northeast Florida where anyone who is hungry can receive a nutritious meal three times a day, 365 days a year. One step into his bustling kitchen and a quick peek at the food provisions he’s been given to transform and it’s clear that someone with less than Chef D’Aurizio’s varied foodservice experiences might struggle with the challenge. Each year volunteer groups donate over $200,000 worth of food for meals and more than 25,000 hours of their time to feed clients at the Sulzbacher Center. If you’ve ever opened your pantry or fridge to find a random assortment of foods and wondered how you’d make them into a nutritious meal, then you understand a bit of this chef ’s daily grind. Chef D’Aurizio has had to get creative, on a very tight budget, to meet the challenges of providing healthy meals to residents. On a weekly basis he faces a mystery basket of donated food from various local sources: USDA, Blue Buddha, Urban Folk Farm, Traders Hill Farm and even community gardens. His job is to transform this surprise package into 1,500 healthy meals. While the path to his latest culinary adventure has been circuitous and the destination was an unexpected one, given Chef D’Aurizio’s commitment to his community, perhaps it should have been no surprise. His culinary background includes stints as a chef in leading restaurants, running his own catering business and acting as Director of Cuisine for a large restaurant group. Each step along his path has shaped Chef D’Aurizio’s belief in the value of seasonal menus and fresh products— commitments he brings with him to his work at the Sulzbacher. Despite an already full plate, Chef D’Aurizio is eager to expand and enhance services, especially educational programs that teach children

“When kids can grow, harvest and cook their own food, it opens up whole new worlds to them and provides a lifelong understanding of the importance of eating good food.”

and families at the Sulzbacher about cooking, nutrition and gardening. “When kids can grow, harvest and cook their own food, it opens up whole new worlds to them and provides a lifelong understanding of the importance of eating good food.” What’s the best part of his day? “Any time I get to work with the wonderful volunteers and residents cooking delicious, beautiful, nutritious food,” he says with a smile.

When not at work, Kurt D’Aurizio can be found volunteering as director of events for Slow Food First Coast or working closely with SAMBA, SPAR and other community and business groups in the Urban Core area to promote the benefits of “good, clean and fair food for all.” He is also manager of the Hemming Park GreenMarket. edibleneflorida.com

Sept/Oct 2015

Sisters Opal and Olive Ferreira pet the goats at Rype & Readi Farm Market in Elkton.

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edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

EDIBLE

SHOW AND TELL Teaching kids to love real food WORDS LISA FARESE PHOTOS AMY ROBB

It’s somehow a quiet place despite the fact that these 22 acres are bustling with growth and life. From the pleasant chirping of the birds, to sighs from the farm animals, to the gentle breeze through the vegetable garden and citrus trees, the only reminders of the complications of life come from the passing of cars in the distance. It is here where I can clearly hear the giggles of my girls Karly, 5, and Ellie, 2 as the pigs and goats approach them, and it is this same quiet surround that elicits a new curiosity from within them. The first of the questions—“What’s that unusual-looking plant growing in the garden?” and “What’s the purpose of those sweet-smelling herbs?”—began shortly after Ripp Smith, partner of Rype & Readi Farm Market in Elkton, introduced himself. Clad in Army fatigue pants, a T-shirt, boots, a canvas hat and, of course, keys to the tractor, you’d never guess his day job was actually that of an interventional radiologist at Flagler Hospital. “This is my passion,” Smith said, as he looked out over the farm. “I like being around farms and being close to the earth.” We meandered the farm starting with the demonstration garden, in which green beans, gladioli, onions, radishes and watermelons were being grown, then headed to the hydroponic herb garden, teeming with the scents of mint, basil and cilantro. We also took a peek in the shiitake mushroom tent and headed back over to meet Paprika, a hen whose blue eggs are somewhat reminiscent of the color of a Tiffany’s box. These caught Karly’s eye, and when talk of taking the eggs away arose, she was quick to interject. “Why do we take the eggs away?” she protested. I replied that this is how we get eggs for our meals. Smith quickly added that if she wanted them to hatch, she’d have to sit on them. With a chuckle, we went into the refurbished barn, now home to a market of locally grown fruits and vegetables. “You can accomplish a lot for health by eating from the earth locally,” Smith said. As we examined the collection of local produce, Smith pulled a purple potato from one of the bins. “Have you ever seen a purple potato?” he asked Karly. She looked perplexed, so he split the potato in two. She examined it as though it were an amethyst geode and carefully carried it with her as we walked by the watermelons, peaches, peppers and even the low-carb potatoes. It was a journey of sorts for my daughter—one that would certainly initiate a conversation around the dinner table, where she would recognize and connect these very same fruits and vegetables to their humble beginnings.

THE ROOT OF IT Armed with modern conveniences when it comes to food, from access to recipes on our phones to the supply of global goods found in our supermarkets, it almost seems rudimentary to venture out to a farm. A desire for health and wellness, however, is bringing us back to the roots of our food. According to The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, childhood obesity is rising at alarming rates. In fact, the last 30 years have seen obesity numbers double in children and quadruple in adolescents. Furthermore, children’s academic achievement has also been linked to healthy eating—a fact that should be enough to give parents pause when planning meals. Lin Brightman, board-certified health coach at St. Augustine Integrated Health, points to the education of both parents and children as a key factor in changing the tide. As a mother of five children, she understands the day-to-day battle of “what’s for dinner?” So what does she think families need to know? First, she advises becoming familiar with the “dirty dozen.” This list of fruits and vegetables are said to carry the largest amounts of pesticides, and many health professionals advise opting for organic and/or locally grown versions. She also suggests choosing whole fruit instead of sugar-laden alternatives. In short, it’s about eating simply. “Eat small portions, lots of vegetables and whole grains,” Brightman said. But how do we get our young eaters to welcome fruits and vegetables on their plates? FROM THE GROUND UP Sarah Tarantino, a Rype & Readi Farm Market regular, finds visiting the farm is a catalyst for encouraging her children to eat more healthy foods. “It definitely helps kids be more open to and eat more fruits and vegetables when they pick them out themselves,” she said. “Plus, the kids love the animals—that’s what got my son here today.” Melissa Riccobono agrees and appreciates the experience it gives her children. Her daughter’s elementary school class recently hatched chickens in their classroom, and those newly hatched chickens will now live at Rype & Readi. “She will love that,” she said speaking of her daughter. Since opening, the farm has also been visited by several classes from The Florida School for the Deaf and Blind. “By smelling the

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Sept/Oct 2015

Ellie Farese samples homemade salsa (left); Opal and Olive marvel at growing plants (center); Sour citrus is no match for Karly Farese (right).

herbs and picking the fruit, they make their own connections,” said Jean-Sebastien Gros, co-partner of Rype & Readi. In addition to day trips, fractional shares for schools offer further involvement. Teachers get packets of seeds—such as lettuce—to germinate in the classroom. Once the seeds sprout, they return the plants to the farm to grow in a hydroponic area, until a crop of edible food is ready to harvest. “It gets the children engaged in agriculture,” Gros said. “They continue to grow the lettuce on the farm and make a meal from it, getting them excited about eating healthy.” The Florida Agricultural Museum in Palm Coast also welcomes numerous school groups throughout the year. Additionally, they are open to the public, so families can experience a farm-type setting with historical significance. “We bring historical structures together to illustrate Florida’s agricultural history,” said Andrew Morrow, director of the museum. This hands-on experience allows children to shuck corn, pump water, gather eggs and interact with animals. “From goats, to ducks, to chickens, to horses, you can engage with all these different animals that were part of this agricultural community,” said Morrow. And while visits to farms, gardens and farmers’ markets are essen-

tial first stops along the road to healthy eating, a true understanding is clearly achieved by children with none other than their own two hands. “Unfortunately children today have become separated from where their food comes from,” says Devon Ritch, chair of the board of direc-

“kids come out and gobble up blueberries like they are cookies.”

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edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

tors at Beaches Local Food Network. “Kids come plant plants and they eat vegetables when they take ownership of it.” From farmers’ markets to community gardens to workshops, her organization works to educate children (and families) with activities like planting, harvesting and making tea from the garden herbs. “This experience makes them more aware of their diet and gives them a stronger sense of connectedness with the world around them,” she said. Adam Burke, founder of Veterans Farm in Jacksonville, agrees. His organization, founded to help veterans establish skills that con-

nect them to an industry in need of farmers, opens their farm for school trips and U-pick family visits during blueberry season, when “kids come out and gobble up blueberries like they are cookies.” AT HOME, AROUND THE DINNER TABLE Taking this hands-on approach at home is yet another important component in engaging children with their food. Kelly Johnson, former teacher and author of Wings, Worms and Wonder, helps families and children do just that. Having grown up with memories of harvesting food together with her grandparents, Johnson saw a need to educate children about their food at an early age. “Many kids have no idea where the things in their lunch boxes come from except Publix” she said. So, she works to help families create edible gardens at home, and the hardest part, she says, is integrating it fully into their lives. “Building it and planning it is the easy part; it is maintaining it that gets tricky,” she said. She advises starting small with one vegetable and one herb, for example, a tomato plant and some basil. From this, your child can use these ingredients to make a meal from food that they’ve grown and picked with their own hands. “Have them involved in every part of the process, including helping to prepare the food,” Johnson said. “Chil-

dren are process-oriented, and it really builds long-lasting connections.” Speaking of connections, I couldn’t help but feel my girls had achieved just that during their day at the farm. As we left the serenity of the farm behind, I peered into my rearview mirror and saw each of the girls admiring their half of the purple potato with a smile. I, too, couldn’t help but smile. “So, girls, what do you want for dinner?”

MAKE FOOD FUN! Celebrate fruits and vegetables Cut produce in funky shapes and tell stories about where it’s from.

with the school’s gardening program. If they don’t have one, become an advocate.

Get kids picking Visit a U-pick farm in the area and let kids be part of harvesting their own food.

Make it a family affair Sign up for a family plot at your local community garden or cultivate a few containers with plants at home. Make it a new routine to grow, harvest and enjoy fresh foods with your kids.

Grow something green Check with your child’s school and ask about ways to get involved

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Sept/Oct 2015

LOCAL LIBATIONS

A Toast to

SEASONAL SIPPING WORDS LAUREN TITUS PHOTOS KRISTEN PENOYER

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edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

The term culinary cocktail has been around since at least 2009, when the National Restaurant Association named it the second hottest trend of the year (behind sustainability). In Northeast Florida, Gabby Saul of Restaurant Medure in Ponte Vedra Beach is intent on crafting kitchen-inspired beverages that excite her customers’ senses of sight, smell and, ultimately, taste. Her inventive use of produce, herbs and spirits points to a sophisticated knowledge of flavor, and she approaches drinks as a chef would approach a meal, though, surprisingly, she doesn’t have any formal culinary training. Her focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients sets Gabby apart in the latest cocktail revolution. Her signature drinks change with the season, and recent creations highlight the fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs available from local farmers. While training the restaurant staff on a new cocktail menu, she gives the team additional background on ingredients. Once in a while, staff members who share Gabby’s commitment to freshness will bring mint and basil from their own gardens. While technology and molecular gastronomy such as gels, foams and emulsifiers are trending throughout the craft cocktail scene, Gabby’s approach draws on more traditional methods to capture flavor essences. Her homemade elixirs include shrubs and tinctures that can sometimes take several weeks to mature into the nuanced flavors found in her creations. Her quest for flavorful combinations has also led her to make many common ingredients, such as orgeat, pineapple juice and cucumber water, from scratch. Shrubs and tinctures are what really set Gabby apart and showcase her kitchen prowess behind the bar. To create her tinctures, Gabby combines high-proof spirits with spices or herbs and allows the mixture to sit in a dark place for at least one week, sampling as she goes until the extracted flavor passes her taste test. Shrubs, vinegar-based

syrups, have their origins in the 17th and 18th century, when the process was used to preserve seasonal fruit. Jewel-tone jars adorn the bar at Restaurant Medure, highlighting the current sampling of shrubs, such as strawberry-rhubarb, blackberry and plum for her signature cocktails. Even while these extracts are underway, Gabby is looking ahead to her next creations, knowing that when the shrub is gone, the drink’s season is over as well. Then it’s time to get back in the kitchen and cook up her next flavorful concoction. WHAT’S A SHRUB? Shrubs, also known as drinking vinegars, originated several centuries ago in England as a method to preserve fruit and berries. Typical shrub recipes use apple cider vinegar poured over seasonal fruit then allow the mixture to sit for a period of time. Afterward the fruit is strained and a sweetener is added to the liquid. This syrup is then used in either alcoholic cocktails or mixed with soda water. WHAT’S A TINCTURE? A tincture is another type of flavorful extract made by preserving spices, herbs and even some produce such as hot peppers in 80% or higher alcohol. Pour the spirit over the selected herb or spice in an airtight container. Keep the container in a dark place at room temperature and shake it once a day. Taste it after about one week and see if it is strong enough. Once at the strength you desire, strain and store indefinitely in a dark cabinet.

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Sept/Oct 2015

LOCAL LIBATIONS

Still Life of a Pear Serves 1 | Recipe by Gabby Saul INGREDIENTS

1.5 ounces Busnel Calvados 3/4 ounces lemon juice 3/4 ounces pear shrub syrup 1/4 ounces St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram 1 egg white 1 ounces Rekorderlig pear cider cinnamon tincture and dried pear chip. PREPARATION

Add all ingredients in shaker tin, except for cider. Dry shake to emulsify egg white. Add ice and shake hard. Add cider and double strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with cinnamon tincture and dried pear chip. Pear Shrub:

Wash and cut pears into slices. Place them in clean glass jar. Cover the pears with apple cider vinegar and close the jar tightly. Place in a cool dark place, such as a cabinet, and let sit for at least two weeks. Shake the jar slightly every other day. When ready strain the pears out and discard them. Measure 4 parts flavored vinegar to 3 parts sugar. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce and simmer for 10 minutes. Place into a clean mason jar for storage. Tightly sealed the syrup will last up to 6 months. But no doubt you will drink it before then! K ITCHENONSANMARCO .CO M P : 904 .396.234 4 1402 SAN MARCO BLVD JACKSONVILLE

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Sept/Oct 2015

EDIBLE DIY

SOURDOUGH

Starter

The Life of the (Bread-Making) Party

WORDS MEREDITH COREY-DI SCH PHOTOS AMY ROBB

Sourdough starter brings flavor and nutrition to otherwise lifeless baked goods. It also carries on a tradition of baking which is so central to many cuisines throughout history: fermenting grains with a live culture. A simple starter is easy to make at home but, like many good things, it does take time: a week to cultivate the initial starter, then a few days lead time to make bread or other baked goods using what you’ve grown. Once you taste the baked results, you’ll know the investment of time is worth it. It begins with a community of yeasts and bacteria that make a “culture,” creating air bubbles, acidic smells and a symbiosis of living organisms particular to sourdough starters. Without too much effort, you can draw these yeasts and bacteria into your kitchen (you want them there!) and keep them alive. Breads leavened with sourdough starter are more digestible, with less gluten present after they have fermented. They also have more nutrients than breads risen with commercial yeast.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED Flour Making a starter takes a week or more, and will then lead you further into baking, so you will need a substantial quantity of both wholewheat and all-purpose flour. Buy a five-pound bag of each. At Community Loaves, we use organic flour not just for environmental concerns but because we depend on the yeasts that naturally occur on wheat, and we don’t want any chemicals to compromise them. Filtered water or spring water Until you know whether your tap water

Sept/Oct 2015

affects your starter adversely (chlorination is a big problem), it’s best to use bottled water. A large, nonreactive container with a lid A big bowl with cloth to cover it can work, or a large jar or crock. Keep in mind your starter will rise when it gets active, so it needs room to grow. WHAT YOU’LL DO When baking, it is always best to measure by weight and use grams. Volume measurements are also noted, in case you don’t have a scale.

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

1. In your container mix 250 grams (1 cup) cool water with 125 grams (1 cup) all-purpose and 125 grams (1 cup) whole-wheat flours. 2. Stir until combined, cover loosely with cloth or the lid to your jar and leave it in a warm location (about 70º). 3. Let your starter sit for 24 hours. Sourdough starter is very temperature sensitive, so if you are starting in the winter this process could take much longer if you don’t have a warm spot in the house. If you are starting in the summer, place it in a shady spot where it won’t get too hot. 4. Discard roughly half of your mixture and add another 250 grams (1 cup) cool water, 125 grams (1 cup) all-purpose and 125 grams (1 cup) whole-wheat flours to what is left in your container. Stir until combined. 5. Repeat step 4 every day for the next week at approximately the same time each day. Keep watch for bubbles or air pockets and a slightly acidic smell. An active starter will be an aerated, bubbly, slightly vinegar-smelling mass. 6. When your starter returns to the same level of bubbly activity multiple days in a row, you have done it! Either give your new culture a fresh feed of flour and water then place it in the fridge for future use, or get to baking. Making your own sourdough starter could take more than a week, so be patient and keep repeating the steps. As long as you are using organic flour and unchlorinated water you will eventually get the active starter you need.

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Sept/Oct 2015

Pimento Cheese made with Wainwright Dairy cheddar, Live Oak, FL Kaiser Bun from Village Bread, Jacksonville, FL Eggs from Black Hog Farm, East Palatka, FL

Grass-Fed Meat from Seminole Pride, Fort McCoy, FL Lettuce from Bacon’s Select Produce, Jacksonville, FL

Bread & Butter Jalapeños made in-house at Black Sheep

Bacon from Pine Street Market, Avondale Estates, GA

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DIRT-FREE

New Methods of Farming are Taking Root

When we think of the food we put on our plates each day, most of us imagine verdant fields where our salads sprout from the ground, orchards where our fruit dangles from trees and barnyards where chickens roam free to produce eggs at their leisure. These are the things we’ve been taught to associate with growing food. What we may not think about, however, is that, for better or worse, most of the food consumed in the U.S. today would not exist without sophisticated technology. From advances in packing machinery to the production of seed and feed, food and technology walk hand-in-hand. For decades, it has fed us. And let’s be honest, at first technology was exciting. Tidy cubes of fun-to-eat food we called fish sticks. Orange-colored pow-

WORDS NANCY WHITE PHOTOS KRISTEN PENOYER

dered cheese and elbow noodles. A Swanson TV dinner? The 1953 symbol of living the American Dream. For years, technology meant innovation, and we ate it up. Today, however, the tide is turning. For a decade or more, new generations of consumers have argued we’ve gone too far, and the Real Food movement is officially on. But what still holds true in our modern-day food system is this: Technology is here to stay. The trick is in harnessing it for good. Northeast Florida has seen an increase in the use of hydroponic, aquaponic and aeroponic cultivation methods in the last few years. More and more regional growers are experimenting with various methods of food production that address environmental and efficiency concerns. Growers run the gamut from backyard farmers feeding friends and family, to multi-greenhouse operations supplying local restaurants, farmers’ markets, specialty grocers and more. In short, technology is now being used in brand new ways: serving up real food. A NEW LIQUID LANDSCAPE Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil, using mineral nutrient solutions. Plants may be grown with their roots

directly in fortified water, or in an inert medium such as perlite. Hydroponic systems can be easily set up indoors or out, within a matter of hours, and even novice gardeners can manage the process of maintaining the required water quality. Working in a greenhouse can extend the growing season, eliminating down time dictated by the climate. The controlled environment of a greenhouse can potentially increase crop yield and speed the time to harvest, while eliminating soil removes soil-based bacteria and other potential pathogens. Aeroponic systems differ from hydroponics in that there is no soil substitute planting material holding the plants in place; rather, plants are grown in an air or mist environment. Water flows through the system and directly nourishes the roots. OUR REGION’S INNOVATORS Father and son Fred Sr. and Freddie Bacon began running a hobby farm in North Jacksonville in 2008, raising lettuces and specialty greens for local farmers’ markets and restaurants. Today, Bacon’s Select Produce is a family-run commercial hydroponic farm growing in greenhouse dome structures. The plants are carefully tended and hand-harvested from horizontal rows of PVC tubing.

Day breaks on Traders Hill Farms in Hilliard, Florida.

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All irony of their name aside, the Bacon family was one of the first hydroponic farms in our area and an inaugural vendor at Riverside Arts Market, where they would sell hydroponic lettuce directly to consumers each week. When produce wouldn’t sell entirely to market customers, Bacon’s began selling to local chefs. This relationship eventually helped the farm focus on products they could cultivate consistently while maintaining quality standards. Family-owned and operated Veggie Confetti Farm in St. Augustine is another small business now growing a wide mix of microgreens hydroponically, mostly from organic seed. They maintain a self-contained, climate-controlled operation with grow lights, misting and hand watering their tender seedlings with a combination of organic plant-based nutrients. While many varieties of vegetables can be grown in a liquid landscape, delicate microgreens respond exceptionally well to these types of growing conditions. Although small in size, microgreens are packed with flavor and nutrients. Chefs love to decorate dishes with the slender gems, trimmed from flats at the moment of service. What’s more, tender crops like microgreens get from farm to plate in record time using greenhouse methods.

Sept/Oct 2015

HARVESTING SEAFOOD AND PRODUCE Taking hydroponics one step further are aquaponic systems. With roots in ancient cultures from the Egyptians to the Aztecs, aquaponics is a time-tested concept with real potential for modern-day application on both new and existing farms. A hybrid of hydroponics and aquaculture (raising fish in controlled circumstances), aquaponic systems raise fish in tanks and use the nutrientrich filtered runoff water to grow plants. The plants, in turn, continue to clean the water by removing potentially harmful nutrients like nitrogen, making it safe to recirculate the water back to the fish. Despite its name, aquaponics actually uses 95% less water than traditional terrestrial farms, by keeping water moving in a closed loop instead of flowing into the ground. Although the initial setup cost is higher and the know-how required to build an aquaponics system is more sophisticated than conventional farming, once it’s up and running it is one of the most energy- and cost-efficient food production methods. In an aquaponic system, as in a hydroponic one, water is circulated through a growing environment to nourish plants not rooted in soil. But what happens to the water before and after—as it draws nutrients from fish tanks and puts water back into fish tanks in a closed circuit system—makes the method truly unique. The balanced, synergistic ecosystem in which the fish and plants coexist requires three to six months to establish, and significant levels of training and expertise to set up and to maintain. One small farm that has quickly become an integral part of the community in our region is GyoGreens, a favorite of local chefs since its inception in 2013. Employing principles of organic farming, they rely on beneficial insects and companion planting to harvest a wide selection of herbs, vegetables and microgreens in their aquaponic environment. Open to the public on Tuesdays, visitors can pick their own greens at the lushly planted greenhouse in Ponte Vedra Beach. A larger operation in the region started as an answer to a growing problem, quite literally. When Traders Hill Farms was founded in 2012, the surrounding landscape was peppered with hundreds of abandoned chicken barns, remnants of Tyson’s one-time domi-

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A strawberry grown without pesticides at Water Me Green.

Tending beds at Traders Hill Farms.

Microgreens growing at GyoGreens in Ponte Vedra Beach.

nance in the region. When Tyson pulled out, the challenge was finding ways to put both the farms and neighboring communities back to work. A four t h-generation farmer and e duc ator, A n g e l a TenBroeck embraced the challenge by creating an aquaponics research lab using the abandoned Tyson facilities. Over the years, as the farm has taken shape, TenBroeck and her employers, the Blaudow family, realized they had a business model that could be easily replicated throughout the area, and set about marketing both their crops and their methodology. Angela now manages the daily operations of Traders Hill Farms, and is the executive director of its research arm, the Center for Sustainable Agricultural Excellence and Conservation (CSAEC). Traders Hill Farms recently expanded into a commercial greenhouse operation

capable of producing 3,125 pounds of their custom salad mix each week. Lettuces, herbs and specialty greens grow in colorful rows in raised beds, while in the next room tilapia grow in a series of large tanks, harvested for sale every eight months. The fish are fed a mixture of organic, nutrient-dense material, including duckweed grown in their aquaponics system. Outside the greenhouse, in the space between the old chicken houses, Traders Hill grows a bumper crop of heirloom tomatoes, squash, eggplant, peppers and more. TenBroeck and the CSAEC are working with the Florida State College at Jacksonville to secure funding for the creation of a full scale commercial aquaponics operation in downtown Jacksonville. The goal is to train future farmers in all aspects of the business of urban farming, including growing, maintaining, marketing, sales and logistics. If they succeed in creating the project, crops grown will go to FSCJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary program and excess yields to a food bank for students in need. edibleneflorida.com

Sept/Oct 2015

An aquaponics system at Traders Hill Farms

BRINGING IT HOME, DOING GOOD THINGS About four years ago, Fernando “Tito” Sosa and his wife, Elishia, began growing their own fruits and vegetables in their backyard using an aeroponic system. The amount of produce they were able to harvest on a daily basis not only reduced their monthly grocery cost, but increased the quality of their diet. When he applied to be an innovator during the 2015 One Spark festival, Tito was invited by Alison Behringer of Sweet Pete’s Candy to use their building’s second-floor patio space to showcase his urban aeroponic tower garden concept. Today, Sosa’s company, Water Me Green, is leading the march for urban farming advocacy, with a focus on growing fresh, clean, nutritionally dense produce, especially in areas where access to food is limited. “Helping families, transforming Jacksonville and revitalizing struggling communities are all part of what drives us to bring Water Me Green to the urban core,” says Sosa. And Sosa is not alone in his desire to give back. This sense of philanthropic duty is a recurring theme for many of our area’s producers. Food-tech farmers are no exception. Many have a charity partner that benefits from their unsold produce. Some actually bring the farm to the charitable organization and others are finding ways to yield sustainable revenues from programs that utilize new farming techniques. For example, Atlantic Beach Urban Farms donated a 10-tower vertical growing system to the Beaches Emergency Assistance Ministry (BEAM), a nonprofit that operates two food pantries in the beaches communities of Jacksonville. The system is a welcome addition to

Sept/Oct 2015

the organization’s urban garden program. An equally creative feel-good fit is an aquaponics project recently integrated into the existing commercial greenhouse at Berry Good Farms, a centerpiece of the horticulture program at North Florida School of Special Education (NFSSE). Berry Good Farms and the NFSSE teach and employ people who are intellectually disabled; through maintenance and production of the aquaponic system, students are learning real-life skills that yield agricultural products sold to the public. FOOD FOR THE FUTURE “The potential for urban farming with alternative methods is huge,” says Traders Hills’ TenBroeck. “We’re not in competition, we are actively seeking ways to work with one another,” she continues. The logistics of getting every crop to market at just the right time and place are being discussed in farmers’ groups and the expanded use of these growing methods represent a win-win for Northeast Florida. While there are still plenty of things to question about technology’s involvement in our larger food system, the proliferation of farming techniques like hydroponics, aeroponics and aquaponics doesn’t have to be one of them. Will these new techniques ever replace traditional farming methods? Not likely. But will they provide us new resources for growing fresh local food? Absolutely. Our region’s new generation of farmers is thinking creatively and sustainably about systems to feed our community, and while these innovations may not be quite as novel or exciting as vacuum-packed TV dinners once were, they are guaranteed to be more delicious.

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EDIBLE LANDSCAPE

Growing the good life HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW? BY AMY BAILEY

’m one of those women who some might say is “almost a hippie.” I enjoy the simple things in life: cleaning with vinegar, eating fresh-grown blueberries without pesticides and using bath products that don’t leave a layer of chemicals on me or my shower. So it only seemed natural (no pun intended), with food costs on the rise and a little one on the way, that the moment we moved into our new family home, my husband and I decided to plant an organic garden. We soon realized, though, we were not sure what “starting a garden” really implied. How does one simply “start a garden?” There are so many things to consider: • Raised beds or ground beds? • Start with seeds or plants? • What does best in sun vs. shade? • What’s the difference between perennial and annual plants? • Are growing seasons different in Northeast Florida? • Will our salty, beach air affect the crops we grow? After hours of research and conversations with local gardeners, we’ve learned a lot and made some critical choices. Our discoveries might not be the answer for every new gardener, but they offer a good place to start for asking the right questions. Here’s how we got our edible side-yard garden officially under way:

RAISED OR GROUND BEDS? We decided to grow in raised beds, so we’d have more control over our soil. This helps contain bugs and weeds, regulate nutrient content, ensure a longer growing season and make maintenance easier overall.

of sunlight is appropriate. We monitored the level of sunshine and shade in our yard for several weeks. Our garden is in full sun in the morning, with more shade in the afternoon, which meets the needs of the plants we are growing: mint, rosemary, parsley, broccoli and sunflowers, to start. Other factors to consider include full vs. dappled sunlight, the number of hours of sunlight in a day and whether your sunny hours are in the morning or afternoon.

PERENNIALS OR ANNUALS Perennials are plants that live for many growing seasons. Annuals are plants that perform their entire life cycle within one growing season. We are growing a mixture of annual and perennial edibles, based on what we like to eat. Most vegetables are annuals. Annuals such as peppers, watermelon and pumpkins are on my list for future growing seasons.

GROWING SEASONS Given our mild winters, planting schedules are different compared to other parts of the country. This allows for more cool-weather gardening. Fall and winter gardens are perfect for greens, broccoli and other plants that hold up well to cooler temperatures. Spring is great for squash and tomatoes. In Florida, many herbs can be grown all year round.

THE SALTY OCEAN AIR The key to gardening at the beach is to work with its existing elements rather than fighting or forcing the wrong plants to grow in such challenging conditions (sandy soil, salty air, winds). Using raised beds lends itself well to coastal gardening as it offers more soil regulation, wind protection and irrigation control. Other alternatives include growing in containers or vertical planters.

STARTING WITH SEEDS OR PLANTS We started our garden using small plants. Because we are so new to gardening, using already-thriving plants seemed like an easier way to see progress quickly and ensure a higher level of success. While seeds cost less and may provide a greater variety of edibles than what is available as starts, we wanted a growing season under our belt before trying to germinate our own plants from seed.

sUNSHINE OR SHADE? Plants have different sun exposure needs so doing research on each individual crop is the only way to be sure the amount

Sept/Oct 2015

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Already, I’m beginning to enjoy the feeling of having control over some of our food. It brings an entirely new sense of accomplishment. I can’t wait to watch our sweet little side-yard garden grow and change with the seasons.

- Amy Bailey Follow the triumphs and challenges of Amy’s growing garden in each coming issue of Edible Northeast Florida.

RaIsEd bEds

Raised beds allow more control over soil for regulating nutrient content and reducing bugs and weeds. Overall, they can also be easier to keep contained, but ground beds allow for greaterbeds growing andcontrol more crops. Raised allowarea more over soil for

or ground beds?

regulating nutrient content and reducing bugs and weeds. Overall, they can also be easier to keep contained, but ground beds allow for greater growing area and more crops.

Perennials &Perennials annUals & annUals

Perennials are plants that persist for many growing seasons. Annuals are plants that perform their entire life cycle within one growing season. Most vegetables are annuals, which you’ll to replant from year year. Perennials areneed plants that persist for to many Some varieties of herbs are perennial. growing seasons. Annuals are plants that perform their entire life cycle within one growing season. Most vegetables are annuals, which you’ll need to replant from year to year. Some varieties of herbs are perennial.

Using already-thriving plants is an easy way to see progress quickly and tends to ensure a higher level of success. Seeds require more patience but cost less and may provide a greater variety of plants than what is way likelytoto Using already-thriving plants is an easy be progress available quickly as starts.and tends to ensure a see

With

Plants?

higher level of success. Seeds require more patience but cost less and may provide a greater variety of plants than what is likely to be available as starts.

Green Winters Green

Winters

Mild winters make our planting schedules different than in other parts of the country. Fall marks the start of our robust winter harvest season, while summer is a time when growing is slowed. Mild winters make our planting schedules different than in other parts of the country. Fall marks the start of our robust winter harvest season, while summer is a time when growing is slowed.

Sh i n E

s un s un

or ground beds?

ds s See Seed

RaIsEd bEds

StarTing With StarTing Or With With Plants?

Sh i n EOr ShadE? Or

ShadE?

Sun exposure needs vary for each plant so researching each garden crop is essential. Monitor levels of sunshine and shade in your yard for several weeks before planting. Sun exposure needs vary for each plant so researching each garden crop is essential. Monitor levels of sunshine and shade in your yard for several weeks before planting.

Don’t battle the elements, work with them! Using raised beds helps mitigate the effects of sandy soil, salty air and wind by offering soil regulation, wind protection and irrigation control. Don’t battle the elements, work with them! Using raised beds helps mitigate the effects of sandy soil, salty air and wind by offering soil regulation, wind protection and irrigation control.

Illustration by Katie Evans

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Buy LOCAL GUIDE

We grow microgreens, petit greens and specialty produce using sustainable farming methods that combine traditional aquaculture with hydroponics. All produce is grown without the use of pesticides. Visit us!

The Hyppo produces handmade gourmet ice pops from fresh fruits and herbs. The flavors may be uncommon, but the vibrancy and freshness are uncommonly good. These pops change lives.

417 Canal Boulevard Ponte Vedra Beach 203-240-7309 gyogreens.com

3545 US Hwy 1 South St. Augustine 904-501-7515 thehyppo.com

Eat. Drink. Shop. Local. TONI DEWI T T & BOB HE IM

Let us serve your ceramic needs.

The benefits of buying local are numerous and range from fresh, flavorful foods and unique one-of-a-kind products, to an increased sense of community and stronger regional economy.

We would like to thank our advertising partners (listed here and throughout this publication) whose support for Edible

Complete garden center with everything you need to create a successful, sustainable home garden and landscape! Wide variety of Florida Native plants, flowers, fruit trees, vegetables and organic seeds. Family owned and operated since 1979. 1690 A1A South St. Augustine 904-471-044 southernhorticultureflorida.com

Let us serve your ceramic needs. Come see us at the St. Augustine Amphitheater farmers’ market on Saturday mornings from 8:30 am -12:30 pm, Space 68. St.Augustine 904-824-1317 westsidestudio@bellsouth.net

Northeast Florida helps make our work possible.

Please make a point of supporting these businesses and organizations. A locally-owned, authentic French bakery serving hand-crafted pastries, crepes, desserts and sandwiches for breakfast, lunch and brunch. 35 San Marco Avenue St. Augustine 904-342-2745 125 A1A Beach Blvd 904–679-3411 lespetitspleasures.com

We are a local food truck specializing in the freshest, locally-sourced ingredients we can get our hands on. We serve delicious wraps, salads, smoothies and sandwiches! 134 Riberia Street (at the San Sebastián Marina) St. Augustine 305-297-1885

40 thanks Sept/Oct 2015 edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA Many to the advertising partners listed here and throughout this publication for their continued support in helping grow and sustain Edible Northeast Florida.

Eat. Drink. Shop. | JAX

Cognito Farm is a small, sustainably managed, pasture-based farm that produces naturally wholesome, humanely raised grass-fed beef, poultry, non-GMO eggs and pork. Find us at local farmers markets! Starke 904-796-8040 cognitofarm.com

Locally owned bake shop specializing in classic pastries, artisan breads, savory pies, signature soups, sandwiches and seasonal salads. 1173 Edgewood Avenue South Jacksonville 904-634-7617 facebook.com/kneadabakeshop

Specialty coffee roaster with two cafes and roastery operation located in Jacksonville. Single origin, direct trade coffees and signature blends for retail and wholesale customers. Three Locations: Riverside, Murray Hill and Jax Beach 904-982-7603 boldbeancoffee.com

Organic Cafe serving creative juices, smoothies, acai bowls and healthy bites all made fresh to order. Vegan and gluten free options. Healthy. Fresh.You. 1510 King Street Jacksonville 904-574-3557

Located on the north side of Jacksonville, Congaree and Penn is a rice farm, a mayhaw orchard and home to a future cidery. Find us at farmers markets throughout Northeast Florida. Jacksonville 915-526-1409 congareeandpenn.com

Florida natives selling farm fresh and boldly flavored ice pops from our vintage camper. We want to be a part of your bold story: weddings, employee appreciation, special events, tenant appreciation & more.

Food & Yoga! Store location opening Fall 2015. Healthy & delicious fast food. Yoga classes for everyone and every body type. 11526 Lake Mead Avenue Jacksonville 904-509-4977 FreshJax.com

Semi-swanky street food, handcrafted with ingredients you can pronounce. Serving Mexeclectic tacos on fresh, house-made tortillas, daily. Slow Food approved. 818 Post Street Jacksonville 904-240-0412 cornertaco.com

Jacksonville 904-626-8101 boldcitypops.com

Ruffled feathers farm Fr o

ng Org

Saint Augustine, Florida

cs ni

la ch Est. 2011 , FL ua County

pastured ∙ non-gmo ∙ local ruffledfeathersfarm.com

Fermented pickle products, olives from around the globe and scratchmade vegan snacks. Find us at NE Florida farmers’ markets and local natural food stores. Our online store sells select products for easy, fast delivery to your door. Jacksonville 904-576-3718 olivemypickle.com

Certified Organic, diversified, year-round farm, serving our CSA Members, the St. Augustine Old City Farmers’ Market and Restaurants. CSA Memberships now available, join online. Hawthorne 352-468-3816 frogsongorganics.com

Pastured, Non-GMO poultry, raised with the utmost care for the birds and the land they live on. Owned and operated by beginning farmers Nick & Katie Provow. St. Augustine 904-315-9252 ruffledfeathersfarm.com

For over 29 years, CartWheel Ranch Meats has been raising cattle in Florida. We offer all natural grain & grass fed, pasture raised, USDA beef, pork and chicken, pet products & homemade healthy broths! Food you can trust! Jacksonville 904-874-5968 cartwheelranch@gmail.com

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FROM THE OVEN

Ginger Apple Pear Pie

This delicious pie works with either a lattice or solid top crust. Either way, you won’t have leftovers for long! Makes 1 pie Recipe by Adam Burnett INGREDIENTS Pie Crust:

2 1 ¼ 1

cups flour cup butter cup ice water pinch salt

Filling:

3 3 ½ ¼ 3 1 1 1 2 1 2

apples, sliced pears, sliced cup white sugar cup brown sugar tablespoons cornstarch tablespoon lemon juice tablespoon vanilla extract tablespoon heavy cream tablespoons fresh ginger pinch salt egg yolks

PREPARATION Pie Crust:

Combine flour and salt in mixing bowl. Using your fingertips or a pastry blender, cut in butter until the butter/ flour mixture resembles very coarse cornmeal. Slowly add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough is wet but not sticky. Separate dough into two even balls, shape into discs and wrap in plastic wrap. Allow to chill 30 minutes before rolling out. Filling:

Toss apples and pears together with the rest of the filling ingredients and allow to sit for 15 minutes.

Sept/Oct 2015

Photo by Kristen Penoyer

While the filling is sitting, roll out dough into two circles, about ¼ inch thick. Line a pie pan with 1 dough circle, add the filling mixture, then top with the other dough circle. Freeze pie for at least 45 minutes.

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This will keep the crust from shrinking while baking. Preheat oven to 400°. Egg wash top of pie and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350° and bake for about 1 hour more, until filling is

nice and bubbly. If the top crust is getting too dark, cover with aluminum foil. Let pie cool for at least 2 hours while the filling sets. Tip: Leave the skin on the apples and pears for a more robust flavor.

FROM THE OVEN

Peanut Butter Spice Cookies

Try this twist on a classic lunchbox favorite. Added bonus? Your kitchen smells great while baking them. Makes 18 cookies | Recipe by Adam Burnett INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

3½ cups peanut butter 1¼ cups white sugar 2¼ cups brown sugar 4 eggs 4 teaspoons baking powder 4 teaspoons vanilla ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ginger ¼ teaspoon clove

In a standing mixer, beat peanut butter and sugars on low speed until just combined. Add eggs 2 at a time, then add baking powder, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger and clove. Mix until just combined, about 15 seconds. Do not over mix. If oils start to leak from the peanut butter, the cookies will not bake properly. Make even scoops, shape into ½-inch-thick rounds and place 2 inches apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Freeze the cookies for at least 45 minutes before baking. Bake at 325° for about 16–20 minutes, until golden brown but still slightly shiny in middle.

Photo by Kristen Penoyer

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EDIBLE NOTEBOOK

THE SHRIMPERS WORDS AND PHOTOS SEAN KELLY CONWAY

Casey Camp is one of a small handful of second and third generation shrimpers who seem to come and go from St. Augustine’s Riberia docks. Some of these younger shrimpers tell me their parents have encouraged them to find a new line of work (as fluctuating seasons, prices and regulations make the work inconsistent and insecure), but they also seem proudly linked to their heritage, many donning shrimp and trawler tattoos that honor their trade and history. One young shrimper told me he once tried to get a job on “the hill,” but he was miserable and craved the excitement, beauty and challenge of his time on the sea. He says he’ll shrimp until he can’t anymore.

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EDIBLE NOTEBOOK

This is the first photograph I ever made with shrimpers. It was near Vilano beach at dusk in the face of a pending storm. Kenny Thompson had just pulled into port, hoping to duck the weather, and he took kindly to my curiosity. He gave me a tour of his boat and shared insights on how his operation on deck comes together: the doors, outriggers, nets, wenches, etc. Shortly after, we walked to a nearby pub and shared a few beers. Just before leaving, he stuffed a handful of white shrimp into an old cardboard box marked for radio parts and told me not to leave them in my car.

edibleneflorida.com

Sept/Oct 2015

LAST BITE

Brunch

Leisurely weekend mornings and the gathering of family and friends. An excuse to fill one's table with sweet and savory treats. From bubbly mimosas to perfectly baked quiche, we love brunch. With roots in the late 19th century, there is no set menu for the occasion, nor is it a meal to be rushed. It's a gathering that celebrates food -- and the people who come together around it. Brunch is a time for community.

Food and styling: Calli Webb. Photography: Shannon LeDuke. Flowers: The Conservatorie. Menu: Bonnie Zerr

Sept/Oct 2015

edible NORTHEAST FLORIDA

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edibleneflorida.com

Sept/Oct 2015