AUTUMN/ WINTER 2012/13 TREND EVOLUTION
SIX BIG PREMIÈRE FOR THE A/W 2012-2013 MATERIAL DIRECTIONS A new graphic layout with colours palette
ACCESSORIES STRATEGIES FIBRES & YARNS EQUIPMENT AND SERVICES FAIR OUTLOOK BUSINESS NEWS FASHION SHOWS
BDWS ASKS A look into the future GREEN AREA A special feature about eco-friendly fibers
www.bodywaresinternational.com see the new browsable version!
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// BDWS ASKS //
A LOOK INTO THE FUTURE
// GréGOIre GIrAuD // CHAIrMAN // CHeYNeT
//1 The Cheynet Group is developing new silicone products for lingerie and various technical applications, by working on the silicone itself as well as on new processes, thanks to its department Sodemetex which manufactures the specific equipments. //2 The Cheynet Group believes in the proximity sourcing. Beyond the products composition, we strongly believe in the interest of a local sourcing for the european market, if only to guarantee a clean process of production and a “low energy-consuming” supply. //3 We are very pleased since our repeated demands for an adapted date have been heard.
// uN reGArD VerS L’AVeNIr // EIN BLICK AUF DIE ZUKUNFT // // UNO SGUARDO AL FUTURO // UN VISTAZO AL FUTURO //
❈
The fabric manufacturers talk to us about the latest new developments for the upcoming seasons, about sustainability and the new dates of an important trade fair. by Lucia Nava
// ALAIN LIeBAerT // CeO
// Les producteurs de tissus nous parlent des nouveautés des saisons à venir, de développement durable et des nouvelles dates d’une importante manifestation professionnelle. // // Die Hersteller von Stoffen reden von Neuigkeiten für die kommenden Jahreszeiten, von Haltbarkeit und den neuen Daten einer wichtigen Messeverabredung. // // I produttori di tessuti ci parlano di novità per le prossime stagioni, di sostenibilità e delle nuove date di un importante appuntamento fieristico // // Los fabricantes de tejidos nos hablan sobre las novedades para las próximas temporadas, sobre sostenibilidad y sobre las nuevas fechas de una importante cita ferial. //
1
Which are the novelties for the autumn-winter 2012/13? Which are the most important novelties from your company?
JULY 2011 - N°7
2
What is the importance of investing in sustainability and green product?
3
// LIeBAerT
//2 In this day and age everyone who is producing knows the importance of sustainability and ecology. Fortunately, we have included this philosophy in our sourcing and production strategy since many years. We have invested over 3 million euro in our commitment towards the environment. We are also ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 certified and our ecological, ethical and social commitment is second to none which makes from Liebaert an example of “sustainability”. //3 Changing the dates of Interfilière in July 2011 is a good idea because the September edition was too late in terms of timing. However, the dates in July are too late for the Belgian textile industry as it is the start of our holiday period. The perfect timing for us would be at the end of June.
What do you think of the new dates of interfilière 2011 (with Mode City)?
❈ // SerGI DOMeNeCH // GrOuP MArKeTING DIreCTOr // DOGI
//1 Our main themes are listed under the headline “Lace in Action”: dynamic, energy, movement and action are the key-words of today and also from our new range. Action allows us to have new ideas and new technologies for future developments. The three main themes are: Attr - action: seduction, magnetism, hedonism, oriental style charm leading us from Year 20’s Paris down to Indonesia; Sophistic - action: evanescent, with a sober and essential elegance refusing excess. Inspired from Year 50’s Couture in both lines richness and purity; Recre - action: amusement, exuberance, wish to show oneself. Animalesque evolution, three-dimensional effects and shocking colours combined with dark tones. Further more we will have some special themes which will be important for the coming season. Embroidery Look is about precious and elegant designs in a very trendy embroidery look, partially with cotton. Guipure effects for luxurious developments. Additional bi-coloured combinations complement the selection of this line. Haute Couture - Cotton is a nature theme with a high content of cotton as well as recycled cotton (recot²). Cotton is transformed into a “couture” version: a new vitality in sophisticated, elegant lace. Shape Wear - Wonderform is a new generation of shapewear designs. For high function we used a very strong elastomer which should avoid laminating but still allow molding. We used a new high shine yarn with small geometric motives for a modern, sexy and flat look. // MATTHIAS HArTMANN
08 11
31 72 74 76
82 84 87
BDWS ASKS
A look into the future
//3 It is a good timing as it coincides with the creative period of a majority of our customers, Some of the key accounts have an earlier calendar than July and some retailers have a later one but in general we think that eurovet has taken the right decision to move this fair. We are looking forward for a very positive show with lots of visitors from all over the world.
❈ // BONA MASTruZZI
TAILOR INDUSTRY
// MArKeTING
//1 The main request we are getting on the part of our customers is to come up with greater differentiation in terms of fabrics in order to get away from the predictable sameness of smooth fabric. This is why the Tailor Industry is now offering a whole series of new textures and designs available in different weights.
//2 Saving resources is our priority. We have consistently looked for ways to operate a cleaner enterprise - conserving or reusing water, decreasing emissions, reducing and recycling waste. We created our nature theme “eCO Lace” with a high content of cotton as well as recycled cotton (recot²) and recycled polyamide (Nilit). recot² is a mix of recycled cotton which comes from the normal production process and the normal virgin untreated cotton. recot² is a product that delivers an exceptional saving of resources, especially water and energy, as well as a reduction in CO² emissions. recot² is also extremely soft. Nilit is a recycled polyamide yarn. The focus is to save valuable resources like water, oil and energy and thus to protect the environment.
//2 When it comes to the issue of sustainability, for years we have been doing our utmost to recycle all the materials we use up and down the production chain, focusing on the use of non-polluting materials and the use of class A discharges. We feel this is very important and this is why we feel it is enormously unfair that europe allows the importation of products that are not manufactured with the same scrupulous attention to environmental concerns that distinguish our goods. In this regard we feel that europe is making a big mistake, taking the shortsighted view, supporting only the interests of certain countries, just a few actually, rather than the welfare of the entire community.
//3 We do definitely welcome the earlier date. The show is now more in line with development schedule our customers. end of June would be the perfect date.
//3 When it comes to the new dates, we will just have to see during the upcoming fair whether or not this was a good choice or too early.
// TAILOr INDuSTrY
11
STRATEGIC POINTERS
La Perla and Lycra: Shape with beauty
ORACLE
ORACLE
The evolution of the trends for the
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2012-13 SUMMER 2013
MATERIAL DIRECTIONS Autumn-Winter 2012/13 trends
proposed by
INTERFILIÈRE MILANO UNICA ILUNA CADT MALLA BAÑO
TREND EVOLUTION
6 insets about A/W 2012/13 colours, ideas and inspirations
GREEN AREA
MOKITEX (D)
31
1
A special feature about eco-friendly fibers to download on our website
4
FIBRES AND YARNS
5
EQUIPMENT AND SERVICES
Karl Mayer
BUSINESS NEWS
FASHION SHOW AREA Woman ready to wear and underwear
104 NEWSDESK
6
1. DOGI (E), art. 23621, col. 610013, 36%/64%, EA/PA, 165 g/m², ↔ 170 cm 2. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 3. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 4. LIEBAERT (B), art. RS6949, ↔ 143 cm 5. DOGI (E), art. 23621, col. 780626, 36%/64%, EA/PA, 165 g/m², ↔ 170 cm 6. DOGI (E), art. 23621, col. 990001, 36%/64%, EA/PA, 165 g/m², ↔ 170 cm
72
2012/13
7
8
9
10 11
12
13
of green The various nuanced ted here and azure are highligh , highly on fabrics with brilliant decorated surfaces 7. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 3496/900, 100%, CO, 140 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 8. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 3496/900, 85%/15% CMD/WS, 80 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 9. HäNDEL + DILLER (D), art. 0596 3335, 42%/41%/13%/4%, C0/PA/EA/PE, 155 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 10. HäNDEL + DILLER (D), art. 0596 0650, 50%/50%, PA/CY, 140 g/m², ↔ 128 cm 11. LOGOSTIL (I) 12. JERSEY LOMELLINA (I), art. Ecolors, col. Bronzato 90%/10% PA/EA 13. RITEX 2002 (E), art. 16185, col. 1, 80%/20% PA/EA, 185 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 14. NOYON (F), art. 504726
14
Textile Proposal
Romance
ATTITUDE 1
106 FAIR OUTLOOK
AUTUMN/ WINTER
3
2
Empty spaces
04
04
//1 Together with 4 Fashion Groups for Winter 2012/13 we will be showing different novelties on plain concepts. As part of our Dogitech/ Shapewear Group we are presenting Cooper, high modulus lighweight products with clean cut properties. Within the framework of our Dogi Brands we will launch Cristal a collection of fabrics aimed at the luxury market and Sari a novelty which will be first released during the show and where Dogi has invested heavily during the last two years to create something very special. //2 Dogi’s commitment to enviroment comes through the way we process the product and where we manufacture it. Our new facility near Barcelona is equiped with the latest enviromentally friendly equipment: photovoltaic energy (4000 m2 of roof with solar panels); water recycling (up to 90% of the water is recycled with reverse Osmosis equipment). Start&stop systems (equipment in stand by when not in use such as boilers)
// CeO
// CHANTY
SUMMARY
//1 Two years ago, Liebaert developed in partnership with one of its machine manufacturers a 50-gauge fine knitting machine. Only Liebaert is able to knit this world’s finest stitch, which is used to produce its Nanostitch fabrics. We can also offer to our customers a complete integrated process and a laboratory for developing new products and colors. That’s why we are able to provide qualitative, technologically advanced and creative products. Liebaert is extremely flexible when it comes to developments and novelties.
2
3
4
5
Petal-like layering 6
7
Volume and lightness 8
CLICK ONTO: www.bodywaresinternational.com to see the browsable version of the magazine SUMMARY_07.indd 2
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20.06.200720.06.2007 9:39:24 Uhr9:39:24 Uh 24-07-2008 13:02:06
// BDWS ASKS //
A LOOK INTO THE FUTURE // UN REGARD VERS L’AVENIR // EIN BLICK AUF DIE ZUKUNFT // // UNO SGUARDO AL FUTURO // UN VISTAZO AL FUTURO //
The fabric manufacturers talk to us about the latest new developments for the upcoming seasons, about sustainability and the new dates of an important trade fair. by Lucia Nava // Les producteurs de tissus nous parlent des nouveautés des saisons à venir, de développement durable et des nouvelles dates d’une importante manifestation professionnelle. // // Die Hersteller von Stoffen reden von Neuigkeiten für die kommenden Jahreszeiten, von Haltbarkeit und den neuen Daten einer wichtigen Messeverabredung. // // I produttori di tessuti ci parlano di novità per le prossime stagioni, di sostenibilità e delle nuove date di un importante appuntamento fieristico // // Los fabricantes de tejidos nos hablan sobre las novedades para las próximas temporadas, sobre sostenibilidad y sobre las nuevas fechas de una importante cita ferial. //
1
Which are the novelties for the autumn-winter 2012/13? Which are the most important novelties from your company?
2
What is the importance of investing in sustainability and green product?
3
What do you think of the new dates of interfilière 2011 (with Mode City)?
//1 Our main themes are listed under the headline “Lace in Action”: dynamic, energy, movement and action are the key-words of today and also from our new range. Action allows us to have new ideas and new technologies for future developments. The three main themes are: // CEO Attr - action: seduction, magnetism, hedonism, oriental style charm leading us from Year 20’s // CHANTY Paris down to Indonesia; Sophistic - action: evanescent, with a sober and essential elegance refusing excess. Inspired from Year 50’s Couture in both lines richness and purity; Recre - action: amusement, exuberance, wish to show oneself. Animalesque evolution, three-dimensional effects and shocking colours combined with dark tones. Further more we will have some special themes which will be important for the coming season. Embroidery Look is about precious and elegant designs in a very trendy embroidery look, partially with cotton. Guipure effects for luxurious developments. Additional bi-coloured combinations complement the selection of this line. Haute Couture - Cotton is a nature theme with a high content of cotton as well as recycled cotton (Recot²). Cotton is transformed into a “couture” version: a new vitality in sophisticated, elegant lace. Shape Wear - Wonderform is a new generation of shapewear designs. For high function we used a very strong elastomer which should avoid laminating but still allow molding. We used a new high shine yarn with small geometric motives for a modern, sexy and flat look. // Matthias Hartmann
//2 Saving resources is our priority. We have consistently looked for ways to operate a cleaner enterprise - conserving or reusing water, decreasing emissions, reducing and recycling waste. We created our nature theme “ECO Lace” with a high content of cotton as well as recycled cotton (Recot²) and recycled polyamide (Nilit). Recot² is a mix of recycled cotton which comes from the normal production process and the normal virgin untreated cotton. Recot² is a product that delivers an exceptional saving of resources, especially water and energy, as well as a reduction in CO² emissions. Recot² is also extremely soft. Nilit is a recycled polyamide yarn. The focus is to save valuable resources like water, oil and energy and thus to protect the environment. //3 We do definitely welcome the earlier date. The show is now more in line with development schedule our customers. End of June would be the perfect date.
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// Grégoire Giraud // Chairman // CHEYNET
//1 The Cheynet Group is developing new silicone products for lingerie and various technical applications, by working on the silicone itself as well as on new processes, thanks to its department Sodemetex which manufactures the specific equipments. //2 The Cheynet Group believes in the proximity sourcing. Beyond the products composition, we strongly believe in the interest of a local sourcing for the European market, if only to guarantee a clean process of production and a “low energy-consuming” supply. //3 We are very pleased since our repeated demands for an adapted date have been heard.
❈ // ALAIN Liebaert // CEO // LIEBAERT
//1 Two years ago, Liebaert developed in partnership with one of its machine manufacturers a 50-gauge fine knitting machine. Only Liebaert is able to knit this world’s finest stitch, which is used to produce its Nanostitch fabrics. We can also offer to our customers a complete integrated process and a laboratory for developing new products and colors. That’s why we are able to provide qualitative, technologically advanced and creative products. Liebaert is extremely flexible when it comes to developments and novelties. //2 In this day and age everyone who is producing knows the importance of sustainability and ecology. Fortunately, we have included this philosophy in our sourcing and production strategy since many years. We have invested over 3 million euro in our commitment towards the environment. We are also ISO 9001 and ISO 14001 certified and our ecological, ethical and social commitment is second to none which makes from Liebaert an example of “sustainability”.
//3 Changing the dates of Interfilière in July 2011 is a good idea because the September edition was too late in terms of timing. However, the dates in July are too late for the Belgian textile industry as it is the start of our holiday period. The perfect timing for us would be at the end of June.
❈ // SERGI DOMENECH // GROUP MARKETING DIRECTOR // DOGI
//1 Together with 4 Fashion Groups for Winter 2012/13 we will be showing different novelties on plain concepts. As part of our Dogitech/ Shapewear Group we are presenting Cooper, high modulus lighweight products with clean cut properties. Within the framework of our Dogi Brands we will launch Cristal a collection of fabrics aimed at the luxury market and Sari a novelty which will be first released during the show and where Dogi has invested heavily during the last two years to create something very special. //2 Dogi’s commitment to enviroment comes through the way we process the product and where we manufacture it. Our new facility near Barcelona is equiped with the latest enviromentally friendly equipment: photovoltaic energy (4000 m2 of roof with solar panels); water recycling (up to 90% of the water is recycled with Reverse Osmosis equipment). Start&stop systems (equipment in stand by when not in use such as boilers)
//3 It is a good timing as it coincides with the creative period of a majority of our customers, Some of the key accounts have an earlier calendar than July and some retailers have a later one but in general we think that Eurovet has taken the right decision to move this fair. We are looking forward for a very positive show with lots of visitors from all over the world.
❈ // BONA MASTRUZZI
TAILOR INDUSTRY
// MARKETING // TAILOR INDUSTRY
//1 The main request we are getting on the part of our customers is to come up with greater differentiation in terms of fabrics in order to get away from the predictable sameness of smooth fabric. This is why the Tailor Industry is now offering a whole series of new textures and designs available in different weights.
//2 When it comes to the issue of sustainability, for years we have been doing our utmost to recycle all the materials we use up and down the production chain, focusing on the use of non-polluting materials and the use of class A discharges. We feel this is very important and this is why we feel it is enormously unfair that Europe allows the importation of products that are not manufactured with the same scrupulous attention to environmental concerns that distinguish our goods. In this regard we feel that Europe is making a big mistake, taking the shortsighted view, supporting only the interests of certain countries, just a few actually, rather than the welfare of the entire community. //3 When it comes to the new dates, we will just have to see during the upcoming fair whether or not this was a good choice or too early.
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// BDWS ASKS //
// ADELE ZIBETTI // CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD // JUNIOR
//1 The major new developments that Junior srl is presenting for the winter of 2012-2013 have to do with: combinations of special fabrics (elastic tulles with lace-jerseys and silk chiffon with Lycra as light as gauze) featuring embroidery work and laser cuts; special geometric and graphic designs, polka dots and stripes, highly decorative patterns; floral designs with an oriental inspiration featuring sophisticated tones: amber, blue, amethyst and green; dainty, light patterns accompanied by feathers and delicate laser-cut chiffon fringe. //2 All of our collection has been designed with special attention to the reduction of energy consumption throughout the various manufacturing processes (work times, materials used for prototypes, the water utilized for finishing operations etc.) with the possibility of reducing, at least in part, prices and participating in various sustainability initiatives in the environmental realm etc.
//3 One considers the new date for Interfilère to be a positive move in that we have always championed the need to move ahead the release of the collection in order to take into account the special requests of the customers who require more time in order to define patterns, fabrics and colors.
❈ // GIANPAOLO SPEROTTO // GENERAL DIRECTOR // PIAVE MAITEX
//1 In the Oversexy shapewear collection, a line featuring shaping fabrics and new multipurpose ruffles, featuring differentiated structured elasticity. In the new men’s collection, PM Man’s Line, featuring soft, natural fabrics or microfiber, including a multipurpose ruffle boasting featuring differentiated structured elasticity for men. In the new sport collection, Move, featuring fabrics for physical activity, designed to maximize performance while providing moisture management and transpiration, available also with antibacterial or sanitizing treatments.
//2 It’s simply ethical and one’s duty to act responsibly in terms of preserving the planet, especially when globalization involves the indsideous threat of “devastation”. It is no coincidence that we have been promoting organic farming enterprises with the PM Bio line. And it is no coincidence that the well-known collection of natural, eco-compatible “Green Line” products has been revamped and expanded, by way of reconfirming our unwavering commitment to sustainability. In addition, we are introducing a range of prints ensuring low levels of environmental impact and eco-compatible finishing processes, as well as a line of garmentprinted items using natural bases. //3 We are in favor of the new dates which satisfy the almost unanimous request on the part of the fabric manufacturers. As a matter of fact, at the last edition of Interfilière, by the time the customers showed up the deals had already been made and the collections already closed. One cannot help but wondering how, when everyone is making enormous efforts in every sector to reduce lead times, more and more time is required by those making up the garments for the collections. But perhaps one shouldn’t ask this sort of question. Or is it that we all already know the answer?
❈ // MATTEO CARLO SCHIEPPATI // EXPORT MANAGER // WEGAL & TRICOTEL
//1 Important new developments on the product front: for autumn-winter 2012/13 Wegal is featuring some exciting new items and revamping the ones already available. Everything is distinguished by lightness and comfort. A special focus has been placed to the development of materials that feature lots of breathability and the pioneering process known as “moisture management”. These characteristics are “permanent” thanks to the use of fibers boasting special sections. //2 A sense of social responsibility has become an integral part of all company growth plans. Today the people at Wegal & Tricotel are giving top priority to optimizing and reducing energy consumption and relying on new renewable sources. Environmental sustainability is not regarded as a cost but rather a modern competitive strategy that can help the company to grow. This is a particularly valid guiding principle in times like the current period, characterized by a drop in consumption and an increase in the costs of input. Nowadays investing in sustainability means developing new business.
//3 We are not especially enthusiastic about the dates having been moved up to July. Or more precisely, we have been hearing the same lack of enthusiasm expressed by all the small and medium manufacturers of underwear and beachwear.
ß Pour lire l’article ß Um die artikel lesen ß Per leggere l’articolo ß Para leer l’articulo
www.bodywaresinternational.com
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// STRATEGIC POINTERS // LA PERLA AND LYCRA®
SHAPE WITH BEAUTY!
A grand event in Milan in the La Perla boutique and La Rinascente Duomo department store for the launching of ShapeCouture, fashionable shapewear by La Perla made with the innovative LYCRA® beauty fabric platform by Monica Lugli
// Un grand événement a marqué à Milan, dans la boutique La Perla et à La Rinascente Duomo, le lancement pour le public de ShapeCouture, le shapewear fashion signé La Perla rentrant dans le cadre du très novateur programme LYCRA beauty fabric. // // Grosses Ereignis in Mailand in der Boutique La Perla und in der La Rinascente Duomo durch die Einführung von ShapeCouture beim Publikum, die fashion shapewear von La Perla, realisiert mit der erneuerten Plattform LYCRA beauty fabric // // Grande evento a Milano nella boutique La Perla e a La Rinascente Duomo per il lancio al pubblico di ShapeCouture, il fashion shapewear di La Perla realizzato con l’innovativa piattaforma LYCRA beauty fabric // // Gran acto en Milán en la boutique La Perla y en La Rinascente Duomo para el lanzamiento al público de ShapeCouture, el fashion shapewear de La Perla realizado con la innovadora plataforma LYCRA beauty fabric //
A number of highly evocative, eye-catching store windows set up in two exclusive Milanese locations: on 17 May of this year La Perla organized the A qualcuno piace liscio - Le seduzioni dell’intimo design event for the presentation to the general public of its new La Perla ShapeCouture line. This collection is composed of a whole new concept of shapewear which combines stunning design - the fruit of the know-how of the La Perla design team - with comfort, achieved thanks to the use of the new LYCRA beauty fabric - The Science of Shaping, the latest frontier in Invista research in the area of shapewear. The smart shapewear items were the exclusive protagonists, from 17 until 23 May, of all the windows of the big La Rinascente Duomo, the most exclusive department store in Milan, and the La Perla boutique on via Montenapoleone, right in the heart of Milan‘s luxury shopping district where the brand celebrated by holding a cocktail reception for numerous invited guests. La Perla ShapeCouture marks the debut of the Bolognese brand in a rapidly growing segment and an important milestone in the area of the latest-generation intimate apparel, with garments that gently follow the contours of the body, shaping it without confining, for a light revamping of the silhouette featuring the unmistakable glamorous flair of La Perla. The big news is that today can actually be measured! This is thanks to the work of INVISTA, the owner of the LYCRA brand, with their pioneering new beauty fabric platform that offers a scientific approach to the construction of shaping garments featuring high levels of comfort and performance. La Perla has interpreted this major innovation with the brilliant design know-how that has always distinguished it, giving life to couture creations that combine the shaping effect with sartorial styling, masterfully crafter insets in tulle for alluring plays of transparency, raw-edged hems and à-jour finished work for a style brimming with sumptuous glamour. High-waist panties, half-slips, garter-belts corset, full slips, bodysuits with short legs and two types of bra constitute the selection of garments that will seduce women, providing them with a perfect silhouette. The fabrics selected for the making up of the collection, produced by Brugnoli and Piave Maitex, all bear LYCRA beauty fabric certification qualification and, although they are lightweight and thin, they are still able to provide high levels of strength and comfort. On the occasion of the launching of ShapeCouture, La Perla took the opportunity to present another major breakthrough that involves the La Perla and Studio La Perla collections. We are talking about Timeless, in elasticized tulle with LYCRA, and Scult, with a sartorial spirit but imbued with a very contemporary flair: two collections created with top quality smooth fabrics that put the spotlight on comfort and design. The featured protagonist of the stunning window displays
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In this page La Rinascente Duomo, in Milan. Alistair Williamson, INVISTA Managing Account Director for Europa and North America. In the other page, La Perla, via Montenapoleone in Milan.
of La Rinascente and the La Perla boutique will be the revamped Revolutional, the best selling fabric by Carvico, which also boasts LYCRA beauty fabric certification qualification, and has played a determining role in the enormous success of this initiative.
Make way for swimwear boasting LYCRA® beauty fabric We met Alistair Williamson, INVISTA‘s brand new Managing Account Director for Intimate Apparel and Swimwear in Europe and North America, in occasion of launch of La Perla ShapeCouture. With him, we discussed the market, brand awareness, consumers tastes and expectations and, above all, how LYCRA fibre represents a key ingredient at every level of the manufacturing chain, to be safeguarded and promoted beginning with the fabric manufacturers all the way to the retail consumers. “With a background in sales, always within INVISTA’s ranks, I know just how important it is that marketing and sales initiatives go hand in hand, that they are designed to interface as much as possible and exchange feedback with one another,“ explained Alistair Williamson, himself an Englishman, although he has been living and working in Barcelona for some twenty years. “Our main goal is to support our customers and help them to constantly sell better; this is why we are concentrating all our efforts on gathering information by means of monitoring the market and conducting studies involving retail consumers, because we feel they are the ones, with their particular tastes, their needs and their increasingly wide knowledge, who invariably determine the success of a collection or a garment and, by extension, the materials with which it is made. With this in mind we are focusing on market research, gathering as much data as possible, conducting interviews in order to be able to design our products to meet genuine market requirements. LYCRA is a fibre that, when incorporated in a fabric, imbues it with special performance characteristics which, of course, are then passed on to the final garments. We are speaking about a product that shoppers don‘t actually see, but rather in one way or another “sense“, that is they perceive the presence and the quality of the performance of the garments containing it. For this reason we are closely involved with every step in the manufacturing chain in order to guarantee our customers, as well as the garment makers, the retailers and the shoppers, a product that is perfect in terms of satisfying their various but similar needs. In particular, in the case of LYCRA beauty fabric - our innovative program that for the first time ever offers a scientific method for measuring comfort - we have conducted extensive research into how shapewear garments have traditionally been perceived by the consumers*: shaping, fashionable perhaps, but certainly not comfortable! Based on these findings we came up with the idea of offering women shaping garments that would be at the same time soft and very comfortable. We therefore had to establish the parameters of comfort that have to be met by fabrics in order to qualify for the coveted LYCRA beauty fabric qualification: they are tested with special sensors designed to measure the degree of comfort and only those exhibiting the best performance have been granted LYCRA beauty fabric - The Science of Shaping certification qualification. A number of exclusive brands such as La Perla in the case of their ShapeCouture collection, have chosen only LYCRA beauty fabric. This is why the Company has decided to extend the platform to accommodate Mode City in Paris. The high performance features of LYCRA beauty fabric have made it possible to expand the application in the realm of intimate apparel - new categories of fabric and new technologies - and to expand the platform to other sectors as well. In order to satisfy the demands of the customers the selection of the materials for intimate apparel has been expanded to include delicate laces and ultra-light fabrics as well as the technology involved in the construction of seamless garments. The incredible potential of LYCRA beauty fabric is far from exhausted with intimate apparel, extending also, and this is the really big news, to the sphere of swimwear, where the garments certified as being made from LYCRA beauty fabric guarantee comfortable shaping action and perfect fit over extended periods of time thanks to the combined action with the Xtra Life LYCRA fiber. Now women can boast an alluring figure while on holiday, enjoying the sun and water, using swimsuits that shape without constricting and are capable of standing up perfectly to the bright sunlight, salty sea water and even harsh chlorine”. We also asked Alistair Williamson what initiative the INVISTA Company was undertaking in order to ensure the brand against counterfeiting. “INVISTA is engaged all over the world with the safeguard of LYCRA brand values, a brand recognized everywhere for its quality, performance and innovation. Protecting the brand against counterfeiting it’s our mission and it represents a commitment towards the entire value chain, that constanly rewards us by choosing our products.” Williamson counts on high-impact campaigns that have been specially developed for the various countries where they are implemented and also on the new means of communication, like social networks for fostering greater awareness about LYCRA among young consumers. * Global Consumer Shapewear Study – 2009 Strategic Insights
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ORACLE The evolution of the trends for the
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2012-13 SUMMER 2013 proposed by
INTERFILIÈRE MILANO UNICA ILUNA CADT MALLA BAÑO
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// ORACLE //
MILANO UNICA AUTUMN-WINTER 2012/13
RUGGED
PRECIOUS
TECHNOLOGY AND COMFORT TONE DOWN RIGOR AND STRENGTH
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1. CS 244-2 P.TPX 19-1321 // 2. CS 358-6 P.TPX 13-5304 // 3. CS 288-1 P.TPX 19-3952 // 4. CS 2941-1 P.TPX 19-3810 5. CS 261-5 P.TPX 16-4013 // 6. CS 1180-1 P.TPX 19-4007 // 7. CS 228-1 P.TPX 19-1111 // 8. CS 228-7 P.TPX 12-0404 9. CS 367-2 P.TPX 19-4104 10. CS 1429-1 P.TPX 15-1150 // 11. CS 1150-1 P.TPX 19-4006 // 12. CS 253-4 P.TPX 18-0503 // 13. CS 3011-1 P.TPX 18-3949 14. CS 2775-1 P.TPX 18-1454 // 15. CS 354-3 P.TPX 18-0933 // 16. CS 3551-1 P.TPX 18-0939 // 17. CS 2819-1 P.TPX 19-4524 // 18. CS 278-1 P.TPX 18-1761 19. CS 1129-1 P.TPX 13-0922 // 20. CS 2729-1 P.TPX 16-5904 // 21. CS 222-41 P.TPX 17-0535 // 22. CS 283-5 P.TPX 16-1708 23. CS 1083-1 P.TPX 17-1109 // 24. CS 2551-1 P.TPX 18-6114 // 25. CS 177-1 P.TPX 19-1627 // 26. CS 333-4 P.TPX 16-1133 27. CS 2584-1 P.TPX 18-2527 28. CS 2760-1 P.TPX 18-1547 // 29. CS 285-1 P.TPX 19-2520 // 30. CS 1182-1 P.TPX 19-1862 // 31. CS 333-2 P.TPX 18-1154 // 32. CS 233-2 P.TPX 19-0912 // 33. CS 157-2 P.TPX 19-5320 // 34. CS 161-1 P.TPX 17-6030 // 35. CS 235-1 P.TPX 119-0000 36. CS 2431-1 P.TPX 14-0951 * COLORSYSTEM * PANTONE TPX
BLURRED
NEAT
HAZINESS WITH ELABORATE FADEOUTS AND MATERIAL LIGHTNESS
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ILUNA AUTUMN-WINTER 2012/13
THE APPROACH OF INNOVATION IS surprising and cosmic where the abstract landscapes are combined with color resonances.
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knitwear AND JERSEY define the new “loungewear” CONCEPT for AN eternal youth
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// ORACLE // rebellious youth, rock’n’roses, fragility and sweetness in a fist!
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a vision of sophisticated, French, seventies. A nostalgic and elegant approach of a glamorous past.
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// ORACLE //
CADT AUTUMN-WINTER 2012/13
Seductive atmosphere of multi-nomade mood
Mysterious of contrasts, exotic petals and painterly effects
Ultrafine laces with embroidery effects give an atmosphere of sexiness and ingenuous purity
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Seduction of graphical laces in very contemporary style.
Mix and match of techniques for a Pop-Bohemian spirit.
Patchwork of small motifs in a fun and colorful way
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// ORACLE //
MALLA BAテ前 SUMMER 2013
In the sector of beachwear Malla Baテアo relies on specialisation and development of proposal based on concepts and styles. The patterns of the brand are created in colours, combining elegance and innovation in each collection.
DREAMING NATURE
ABSTRACT LINE
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DEEP COLOURS
ANIMAL CHIC
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Ù
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DIRECTIONS
What can we expect to find in the bodywear collection of fabrics and accessories for the autumn/winter season of 2012/2013? Everything is based on endeavoring to strike a balance between two extreme opposites: rationality and instinct; reality and imagination. One is treated to impalpable fabrics in delicate chromatic nuances along with bold prints and bright colors. Understated sobriety it animated by motifs of textural embroidery, while the most sumptuous, luxurious materials have been imbued with soft, delicate tones. There is no shortage of products for creating playful, colorful garments, as well as fabrics for sophisticated, refined intimate apparel. The accessories are creative and carefully designed. Ten themes have been proposed, which have been enhanced by inspirational images and the color palette which has been settled upon in order to assist designers to come up with creative solutions as they put together the upcoming collections.
// Que nous réservent les collections de tissus et d’accessoires pour le bodywear pour l’automne-hiver 2012/2013? Tout se joue sur la recherche d’un équilibre entre deux extrêmes aux antipodes, entre rationalité et instincts, entre réalité et imagination. Des tissus impalpables aux nuances éthérées font leur apparition au côté d’impressions de grande taille et de couleurs vives. La sobriété est troublée de motifs et de broderies en relief tandis que les matières plus riches et plus précieuses se parent de teintes douces et délicates. De nombreuses propositions permettant de réaliser des articles drôles et colorés font leur apparition, ainsi que des tissus destinés à une lingerie sophistiquée et recherchée. Les accessoires sont créatifs et design. Les dix thèmes proposés s’enrichissent d’images inspiratrices et de palettes chromatiques de référence, qui aideront les créatifs à réaliser les prochaines collections. // // Was erwartet uns bei den Stoffkollektionen und Zubehören des bodywears für den Herbst-Winter 2012/2013? Alles spielt sich auf der Suche nach einem Ausgleich zwischen beiden entgegengesetzten Enden ab, zwischen Rationalität und Instinkt und Realität und Einbildung. Es erscheinen ganz feine Stoffe in zarten Nuancen neben wichtigen Drucken und leuchtenden Farben. Die Anspruchslosigkeit wird von Motiven und Reliefstickereien belebt, während die reicheren und wertvolleren Materialien in weichen und delikaten Farben getönt sind. Es fehlt nicht an Vorschlägen zur Verwirklichung von lustigen und bunten Teilen, aber auch zu Stoffen für ausgeklügelte und ausgewählte Intimwäsche. Die Zubehöre sind kreativ und nach Design. Zehn Themen sind vorgeschlagen, die sich an inspirierten Bildern und an chromatischen Bezugspaletten bereichern, um den Schöpferischen bei der Verwirklichung der nächsten Kollektionen zu helfen. // // Cosa ci aspetta nelle collezioni di tessuti e accessori del bodywear, per l’autunno-inverno 2012/2013? Tutto si gioca sulla ricerca di un bilanciamento fra due estremi opposti, fra razionalità e istinti, fra realtà e immaginazione. Compaiono tessuti impalpabili in nuances tenui, accanto a stampe importanti e a colori accesi. La sobrietà è movimentata da motivi e ricami in rilievo, mentre i materiali più ricchi e preziosi si tingono di toni soft e delicati. Non mancano proposte per realizzare capi divertenti e colorati ma anche tessuti per un intimo sofisticato e di ricerca. Gli accessori sono creativi e di design. Dieci i temi proposti, che si arricchiscono di immagini ispirazioni e delle palette cromatiche di riferimento, per aiutare i creativi nella realizzazione delle prossime collezioni. // // ¿Qué nos reserva la colección de tejidos y accesorios de bodywear de otoño-invierno 2012/2013? Todo se basa en encontrar un equilibrio entre dos extremos opuestos, entre la razón y el instinto, entre la realidad y la imaginación. Afloran tejidos impalpables en tonos tenues junto a estampados con carácter en colores vivos. La sobriedad se anima con motivos y bordados en relieve, mientras que los materiales más ricos y preciados se tiñen de tonos suaves y delicados. Tampoco faltan propuestas para realizar prendas divertidas y coloreadas, así como tejidos para prendas íntimas sofisticadas y muy estudiadas. Los accesorios son creativos, de diseño. Son diez los temas propuestos, que se enriquecen con imágenes inspiradoras y con paletas de color de referencia para ayudar a los diseñadores durante la realización de las próximas colecciones. //
Credits: Cecilia Righi ph. Vogue, Urban, Marie Claire, Le Book, AnneMarie Verven - Texitura n.47, MDN Designs- Romanticismi Logos ed. - La botte di Diogene
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Dark silence
atmosphere A sinister, intriguing weights and featuring impalpable and lace nuances for fabrics d very chic which is romantic an
1. ILUNA GROUP (I), art. BC005 1500 CC 2. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 3. CODENTEL (F) 4. INNOTEX (D), art. 4108717, 93%/7%, VIS OE/EI, 220 g/m², ↔ 147 cm 5. ELASTIC (D), art. 336261, 29%/71%, EA/PA, 95 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 6. T.F.T. Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli (I), art. 191, col. 737, ↔ 150 cm 7. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 3342/900, 100%, CO, 75 g/m², ↔ 145 cm
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8. MUEHLMEIER (D) 9. TESSITURA TAIANA VIRGILIO (I) 10. EUROJERSEY (I), art. BFSN E187 V.ROS01 11. DRESDNER SPITZEN (D), art. 8539685, col. 1856, 42%/33%/25%, PA6/PA/EA, ↔ 15,5 cm 12. MICHELE LETIZIA (I), art. 5802, var. 000, col. 0002
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Sidewalk
been combined Gray and black have iant fuchsias, with purple and brill brics or ones used in solid-toned fa ular patterns embellished with mod
1. WEGAL&TRICOTEL (I), art. Bahamas, col. 497 2. NASTRIFICIO DE BERNARDI (I) 3. MAGLIFICIO RIPA (I), art. Berlino, dis. 349, var. 7927, 94%/6%, PA/EA, 200 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 4. EUROJERSEY (I), art. TSLS B563 v. ROS10, fnd. 263 5. LIEBAERT (B), art. CS 2453, col. 1000 rwart, ↔ 155 cm 6. CARVICO (I), art. Siviglia, col. Fresia, 90%/10%, PA/EA 7. MORIATA (E), art. 68238, col. 390026, 43%/41%/16%, PA/PE/EA, 205 g/m², ↔ 135 cm 8. BORGINI JERSEY (I)
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9. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 0690, dis. 0I16/02, 93%/07%, PA/EA, 65 g/m², ↔ 140 cm 10. MORIATA (E), art. 68230, col. 390026, 59%/23%/18, PE/PA/EA, 150 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 11. MAGLIFICIO RIPA (I), art. Acquario, var. R236, 84%/16%, PA/EA, 200 g/m², ↔ 140 cm 12. MAGLIFICIO RIPA (I), art. Light 2279, var. 35, 90%/10%, PA/EA, 120 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 13. JUNOR HAGEN (UK)
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Rough
g of prints A mix-and-match ba w-chic style and materials for a ra color palette featuring a delicate k tones interspersed by bric
1. LIOR (CH), art. LA2656, dis. 4358, 80%/20%, PA/EA, 130/135 g/m², ↔ 115/120 cm 2. LIEBAERT (B), art. 9525414, col. body hp26, ↔ 165 cm 3. T.F.T. Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli (I), art. 191, col. 724, ↔ 150 cm 4. ITALMARE (E) 5. LIEBAERT (B), art. cs1942, col. Tomette, ↔ 160 cm 6. LOGOSTIL (I) 7. WEBER LACE (A), art. 2977-4, col. 797, 72%/19%/7%/2%, PA/EA/PE/CV, ↔ 1g0 cm
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8. MUEHLMEIER (D) 9. FAISS TEXTIL (D), art. 60/304, 44%/23%/20%/13%, CO/CV/PE/CMD, 200 g/m², ↔ 180 cm 10. PUNTIBLOND (E), art. 40443, col. 148286, 20%/80%, EA/PA&, 115 g/m², ↔ 160 cm 11. MUEHLMEIER (D) 12. DENTELLES CLéMENT (TH), art. 21223-72
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Under construction
inates Here bright red illum utral tones in the darkest, most ne precedented order to generage un ly dramatic effects that are high
1. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 4890, 78%/22%, PA/EA, 225 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 2. JERSEY LOMELLINA (I) art. Folie,, col Tortuga, 89%/11%, PA/EA 3. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 7422, 82%/18%, PA/EA, 145 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 4. CHANTY (D), art. 65684-00, col. 5878, 17,2%/82,8%, EA/PA6.6, ↔ 16,5 cm 5-6. NASTRIFICIO DE BERNARDI (I) 7. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 9095, dis. 0I30/01, 73%/27%, PA/EA, 70 g/m², ↔ 155 cm
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8. ROCLE BY ISABELLA (F), art. Sugar PP 25600, 93%/7%, PE/EA, 117/145 g/m², ↔ 135/140 cm 9. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 1429/900, 50%/50%, CO/SE, 90 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 10. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 0725, 56%/44%, PA/EA, 285 g/m², ↔ 160 cm 11. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 4875, 74%26%, PA/EA, 85 g/m², ↔ 135 cm 12. MUEHLMEIER (D) 13. ILUNA (I), art. B0417 1500 CC3
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1. LOGOSTIL (I) 2. MUEHLMEIER (I), Etichetta in jacquard, lavorazione in lurex 3. LOGOSTIL (I) 4. CHEYNET ELASTICS (F) 5. LOGOSTIL (I)
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Superlight
1
ffused A dreamy realm of su r outlines: images with no clea patterns and delicate tones, micro ncies impalpable consiste
1. Géneros de Punto Fabrés (E), art. 5170-50C, col. 21 2. MUEHLMEIER (D) 3. ILUNA (I), art.N065065 0195 S418 4. LOGOSTIL (I) 5. LIEBAERT (B), art. CS2494, col. Mauvi VC62, ↔ 155 cm 6. NASTRIFICIO DE BERNARDI (I) 7. Géneros de Punto Fabrés (E), art. 4512, col. 2 8. ITALMARE (E) 9. Händel + Diller (D), art. 0228 3120, 50%/50%, CO/CV, 170 g/m², ↔ 165 cm
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10. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 11. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 4835, 91%/9/, PA/EA, 140 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 12. FAISS TEXTIL (D), art. 70/38, 96%/4%, CO/EA, 175 g/m², ↔ 175 cm 13. EUROJERSEY (I), art. GGLS E230 var. 01 fn. 802 14. ITALMARE (E) 15. MORIATA (E), art. 68110, dis. 651874, 72%/28%, PA/EA, 80 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 16. CHANTY (D), art. 65673-01, col. 1175/1176, 21,4%/19,4%/59,2%, EA/VIS/PA6.6 ↔ 16,30 cm
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thgilrepuS :amet x AMUIP
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1. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 2. LOGOSTIL (I) 3. LOGOSTIL (I)
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Empty spaces 1. DOGI (E), art. 23621, col. 610013, 36%/64%, EA/PA, 165 g/m², ↔ 170 cm 2. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 3. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 4. LIEBAERT (B), art. RS6949, ↔ 143 cm 5. DOGI (E), art. 23621, col. 780626, 36%/64%, EA/PA, 165 g/m², ↔ 170 cm 6. DOGI (E), art. 23621, col. 990001, 36%/64%, EA/PA, 165 g/m², ↔ 170 cm
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of green The various nuanced hted here and azure are highlig nt, highly on fabrics with brillia decorated surfaces 7. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 3496/900, 100%, CO, 140 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 8. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 3496/900, 85%/15% CMD/WS, 80 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 9. Händel + Diller (D), art. 0596 3335, 42%/41%/13%/4%, C0/PA/EA/PE, 155 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 10. Händel + Diller (D), art. 0596 0650, 50%/50%, PA/CY, 140 g/m², ↔ 128 cm 11. LOGOSTIL (I) 12. JERSEY LOMELLINA (I), art. Ecolors, col. Bronzato 90%/10% PA/EA 13. RITEX 2002 (E), art. 16185, col. 1, 80%/20% PA/EA, 185 g/m², ↔ 145 cm 14. NOYON (F), art. 504726
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Night flash
ht breaking Subtle shimmers of lig dark atmosphere: through a shadowy, ed laces and black and sophisticat mbined with fabrics have been co d luxurious yellow an ay gr ut to ar ep ss pa
1. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 2. CHANTY (D), art. 65649-99, col. black 5878, 24,3%/75,7%, EA/PA6.6, ↔ 16,90 cm 3. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 4853, var. 0I33/50, 86%/14%, PA/EA, 80 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 4-5. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 7366, 79%/21%, PE/EA, 210 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 6. ELASTIC (D), art. 514004, 25%/32%, EA/PA, 170 g/m², ↔ 125 cm 7. DRESDNER SPITZEN (D), art. 9738298, col. 1239, 81%/19%, PA/VI, ↔ 15,5 cm
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8. T.F.T. Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli (I), art. 704, col. 152, ↔ 150 cm 9. JERSEY LOMELLINA (I), art. Honey, col. Bianco, 85%/15% 10. PIAVE MAITEX (I), art. 4807, col. I1138, 75%/19/06%, MMD/PA/EA, 170 g/m², ↔ 150 cm 11-12. MUEHLMEIER (D) 13. FAISS TEXTIL (D), art. 56/2, 100%, CO, 115 g/m², ↔ 145 cm
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Supermarket
for solid tones and Playful, lively colors surfaces creative prints. The e plenty of the fabrics featur d the lace displays of textural interest an youthful motifs
1. ARULA TEXTIL (A), 3433/900, 94%/6%, CLY/EA, 170 g/m², ↔ 170 cm 2. NOYON (F), art. 149371 3. ELASTIC (D), art. 322018 KL, 33%/29%/38%, EA/PA6/PE, 165 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 4. TESSITURA TAIANA VIRGILIO (I) 5. CARVICO (I), art. Aldabra, col. Aftereight, 87%/13%, PA/EA 6. CODENTEL (F) 7. DOGI (E), art. 50409, 13%/34%/53%, EA/PE/PA, 195 g/m², ↔ 170 cm
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8. MUEHLMEIER (D) 9. MOKITEX (I), JS4839 10. EUROJERSEY (I), art. TSCE Sensitive Touch st. Clear, E260/1 11. PUNTIBLOND (E), art. 02001, col. 150009, 50%/40%, EA/PA6. 155 g/m², ↔ 140 cm 12. WEGAL&TRICOTEL (I), art. Bahamas, col. Prugna 481 13. TAILOR INDUSTRY (I), art. New Age, 2&%/74%, EA/PA, 200 g/m², ↔ 160 cm
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Write me a letter
focuses on A boudoir theme that s, rich in allure, sophisticated nuance ing intimate apparel for extremely charm
1. TAILOR INDUSTRY (I), art. New Age, 26%/74%, EA/PA, 200 g/m², ↔ 160 cm 2. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 3. T.F.T. Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli (I), art. PL192, Tulle 192 Plissè 4. ARULA TEXTILE (A), art. 3490/900, 70%/30%, WO/SE, 105 g/m² , ↔ 135 cm 5. WEBER LACE (A), art. 6019-4, col. 939, 78%/12%/19%, PA/EA/CV 6. JUNIOR HAGEN (UK) 7. LIEBAERT (B), art. RS8642, Racre 97c ib04 8. LOGOSTIL (I) 9. INNOTEX (D), art. 4104720, 93%/7%, VIS OE/EI. 220 g/m² , ↔ 147 cm
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10. DENTELLES clément (TH), art. 21223-71 11. ROCLE BY ISABELLA (F), art. LaraVP 15617, 82%/18%, PA/EA, 110/130 g/m², ↔ 130/135 cm 12. DOGI (E), art. 23727, 16%/84%, EA/PA, 180 g/m², ↔ 160 cm 13. WEBERL LACE (A) art. 8356-7, col. 62485%/15%, PE/EA
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1. NASTRIFICIO DE BERNARDI (I) 2. LOGOSTIL (I) 3. LOGOSTIL (I) 4. LOGOSTIL (I) 5. LOGOSTIL (I)
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Shining surfaces
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1. CARVICO (I), art. Folie, col. Poetry, 89%/11%, PA/EA 2. CARVICO (I), art. Sumatra, col. Savage, 80%/20%, PA/EA 3. T.F.T. Tintoria Finissagio Tulli (I), art. 194, col. s. 83, ↔ 150 cm 4. LIOR (CH), art. LA2702, dis. T23, 80%/20%, PA/EA, 68/70 g/m² , ↔ 140/142 cm 5. ITALMARE (E) 6. MUEHLMEIER (D) 7. T.F.T. Tintoria Finissagio Tulli (I), art. 194, col. 151, ↔ 150 cm
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8. LIEBAERT (B), art. SM1654, ↔ 150 cm 9. LIOR (CH), art. LA2252, dis. 4370/1005, 88%/12%, PA/EA, 90/95 g/m² , ↔ 143/145 cm 10. Händel + Diller (D), art. 0585 2850, 70%/20%/10%, PA/PES/EA, 135 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 11. Händel + Diller (D), art. 0585 2850, 70%/20%/10%, PA/PES/EA, 135 g/m², ↔ 155 cm 12. LOGOSTIL (I)
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première // AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 // A perfect season for role playing, for starring in the leading part, just like in a movie. Six themes that have been inspired by the thousand faces of films.
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// GREEN AREA //
FIBER AND FUTURE PROCESSES
FIBRE E PROCESSI DEL FUTURO New products, processes and approaches: Bodywares International is presenting a special report on the latest breakthrough in the field of sustainability and fiber; it can be downloaded in PDF format from the following site: www.bodywaresiternational.com by Lucia Nava Nuovi prodotti, processi e approcci: Bodywares International presenta uno speciale sulle novità nell’ambito sostenibilità e fibre, scaricabile online in formato pdf sul sito www.bodywaresiternational.com
The subject of sustainability is by now a very familiar issue within the fashion sector and, in particular, in the field of materials and fibers. The awareness of the importance of this approach to production is growing constantly and a great many manufacturers are beginning to invest in green collections and products, the fruit of recycling or natural materials. Concern throughout the industry with the problem of waste, proper disposal of chemical waste and recycling materials that can be used again has become an integrated dynamic within the companies. And yet the culture of sustainability is still a precious flame to be fed; information regarding the new frontiers in this sphere is often misleading and confusing. In the macro-cosmos of sustainability every sector obviously has its own specifities and unique approaches and the correct path to take involves getting involved with the individual areas and obtaining as much useful information as possible. In this report we want to go over some of the proposals put forward by the manufacturers of fibers that are used in the underwear and beachwear industry, identifying case histories that reveal the actual situation of some companies in detail.
Il tema della sostenibilità è un argomento ormai diffusissimo nel settore moda e in particolare in quello dei materiali e delle fibre. La consapevolezza dell’importanza di questo approccio produttivo è sempre maggiore e tante sono le aziende che stanno investendo in collezioni e prodotti green, provenienti da riciclo o da materie naturali. L’attenzione agli sprechi, allo smaltimento dei rifiuti chimici, al riciclo dei materiali utilizzati nella filiera sono diventate dinamiche integrate all’interno delle aziende. Eppure la cultura della sostenibilità è ancora una fiamma da alimentare e l’informazione sulle nuove frontiere dell’ambito è spesso disorientante. Nel macro cosmo della sostenibilità ogni settore ha le sue specificità e i suoi approcci e la strada da prendere è quella di soffermarsi sulle singole realtà e ricavarne informazioni utili. In questo speciale vogliamo percorrere alcune proposte dalle aziende produttrici di fibre in uso nel settore intimo e mare individuando degli story case che raccontano le realtà di alcune aziende nel dettaglio.
C.L.A.S.S. ECO LIBRARY
SOME FIBERS USED TO MAKE UNDERWEAR / ALCUNE FIBRE IN USO NELL’INTIMO Polyamide/Poliammide Radici Group (I) | CornLeaf: the fiber made from the PLA Ingeo™ biopolymer Nilit (IL) | Nilit Eco Care recycled yarns Fulgar (I) | Ecoprocess, Ecolabel, Ecopower Polyester/Poliestere Filature Miroglio (I) | CASE HISTORY: Newlife Advansa (D) | ECO2 technology for Thermo°Cool™ Stretch/Elastico Hyosung (ROK) | creora® eco Cellulose/Cellulosici Lenzing (A) | Tencel® Ashai Kasei (JP) | Bemberg™ - Cupro fiber
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INNOVATIVE RENEWABLES “This category of materials is based on the principle of sustainability and naturalness, easily renewable resources that currently all utilize innovative technology aimed specifically at producing top-quality, useful, desirable consumer materials which include: appropriate aesthetics, elevated environmental standards and performance features, materials that combine the advantages of products obtained from nature with the performance of engineered high-tech fibers. In order to be included in the category these products must have a small carbon footprint and they must not be dependant on petroleum in terms of supply or manufacturing techniques”. (Eco-dictionary di C.L.A.S.S.)
INNOVATIVI RINNOVABILI “Questa categoria di materiali si basa sul principio della sostenibilità e del naturale, risorse facilmente rinnovabili che oggi utilizzano tutte una tecnologia innovativa volta specificamente a produrre materiali di consumo utili e desiderabili dalle qualità che includono: un’estetica appropriata, elevati standard a livello ambientale e di performance, e che abbinano i vantaggi dei prodotti di origine naturale alle prestazioni delle fibre ad alta tecnologia ingegneristica. Per rientrare in questa categoria questi prodotti devono avere una small carbon footprint e non devono essere dipendenti dal petrolio in termini di fonti di approvvigionamento o tecniche produttive”. (Eco-dizionario di C.L.A.S.S.)
INGEO™ fiber produced by NatureWorks LLC obtained from sugar cane LENPUR™ fiber obtained from cultivated wood MILKOFIL®, a registered trade mark of Filati Maclodio, is a fiber obtained from milk protein SEACELL® is a cellulose fiber containing materials obtained from seaweed TENCEL® a registered trade mark of Lyocell, a natural cellulose fiber CRABYON® obtained from crab meat - CASE HISTORY: Mario Boselli+Pozzi Electa BAMBOO a regenerated fiber based on viscose. A company that produces it is Shanghai Tenbro MODAL a cellulose fiber obtained from reconstituted beech wood. A company the produces it is Lenzing
INGEO™ fibra prodotta da NatureWorks LLC ricavata da piante da zucchero LENPUR™ fibra del legno coltivata MILKOFIL®, marchio registrato di Filati Maclodio, è una fibra derivata dalla proteina del latte SEACELL® è una fibra cellulosica contenente materiale derivante dalle alghe marine TENCEL® marchio registrato per Lyocell, fibra cellulosica naturale CRABYON® dalla polpa del granchio - STORY CASE: Mario Boselli+Pozzi Electa BAMBOO fibra rigenerata basata sulla viscosa. Un’azienda che la produce è Shanghai Tenbro MODAL fibra di cellulosa da legno di faggio ricostituita. Un’azienda che la produce è Lenzing
C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy)
C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy)
A final space is devoted to C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), an eco platform for the textile industry, fashion sector, lifestyle, the home, design and communication which hosted us in its Milan showroom. Founded in 2007, C.L.A.S.S. is a global network of three showrooms (Milan, London and New York) that fosters and promotes eco-compatible products by means of a range of eco-fabrics, yarns, processes and services. Each showroom boasts a well stocked eco-library of reading material – available to manufacturers, designers and buyers – as well as a vast array of high quality fashion accessories and clothing, home products and different kinds of lifestyle products for an eco-pertinent style of life. In 2010 C.L.A.S.S. expanded is particular area of business in order get involved in the marketing of ready-to-wear collections through its already established network of showrooms and by means of commercial partners. This platform promotes products characterized by an outstanding innovative and technological spirit in which responsibility and respect for the environment join forces with elegance and the allure of modern living. “The products and the collections that we promote not only have to meet certain criteria of sustainability, they also have to display a certain commercial value: a collection must also be attractive and possess certain aesthetic characteristics in order to go into production and be sold,” explained Giusy Bettoni, the head of marketing and communication for C.L.A.S.S. Among the products available at the showroom we find: Natural and Organic ones, fabrics made from wool, cashmere, silk, cotton, linen, hemp and vegetally-tanned leather; Reintroduced and Recycled, fabrics that contain recycled polyester, recycled polyamide, recycled cashmere and denim, fabrics with a second life that help to reduce the carbon footprint; Innovative Renewables, new biopolymers, paper, milk protein, soya, seaweed, regenerated cellulose and bamboo, wood fiber, Modal/Micromodal and fiber made from the shells of crabs. These products have been developed in order to reduce the dependence on petroleum and promote sustainable resources.
Un’ultimo spazio è dedicato a C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), un’eco piattaforma per il tessile, la moda, il lyfestyle, le casa, il design e la comunicazione, che ci ha ospitato nel suo showroom di Milano. Fondata nel 2007, C.L.A.S.S. è una rete globale di tre showroom (Milano, Londra e New York) che sostiene e promuove prodotti eco-compatibili attraverso una vasta gamma di eco-tessuti, filati, processi e servizi. Ogni showroom dispone di un’ampia ecolibrary di materiali – a disposizione di aziende, designer e buyer – e una vasta gamma di accessori e capi di abbigliamento fashion di alta qualità, prodotti per la casa e prodotti lifestyle di vario genere per uno stile di vita eco-pertinente. Nel 2010 C.L.A.S.S. ha ampliato la propria area di business per lanciarsi nella commercializzazione di collezioni ready-to-wear attraverso i propri showroom e tramite i propri partner commerciali. Questa piattaforma promuove prodotti caratterizzati da un forte spirito innovativo e tecnologico, in cui la responsabilità e il rispetto dell’ambiente incontrano l’eleganza e il fascino del modern living. “I prodotti e le collezioni che promuoviamo, non devono rispondere solo a determinati criteri di sostenibilità ma devono avere un certo valore commerciale: una collezione deve essere anche bella e possedere determinate caratteristiche estetiche per entrare in produzione ed essere venduta” afferma Giusy Bettoni, direttore marketing e comunicazione di C.L.A.S.S. Fra i prodotti disponibili presso lo showroom troviamo: Naturali e Organici, tessili fatti con lana, cashmere, seta, cotone, lino, canapa, pelle conciata al vegetale; Riproposti e Riciclati, tessuti che contengono poliestere riciclato, poliammide riciclato, cashmere e denim riciclato, tessili con una seconda vita che aiutano a ridurre il carbon footprint; Rinnovabili Innovativi, nuovi biopolimeri, carta, proteine del latte, soia, alghe, cellulosiche rigenerate,e bambù, fibre del legno, Modal/Micromodal e fibra di carapace di granchio. Questi prodotti sono stati pensati per ridurre la dipendenza dal petrolio e promuovere risorse più sostenibili.
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// FIBRES AND YARNS //
POLYAMIDE
// POLYAMIDE // POLYAMID // POLIAMMIDE // RADICI GROUP New developments in terms of sustainable innovation for the Radici Group which has launched a new website for CornLeaf (www.radicigroup.com/cornleaf), the remarkable yarn made from biopolymers featuring Ingeo polylactic acid (PLA), a 100% natural substance, derived from renewable vegetal resources. As explained by Daniele Dossi head of the R&D department at Noyfil: “this is a very worthwhile, clear new tool that is being offered to all our current and potential customers, full of information and technical details”. Another breakthrough has been achieved by RadiciSpandex Corp., the American company involved in the production of spandex bearing the RadElast brand. They are currently working on the development of a whole new family of eco-sustainable elastan fibers that are obtained by means of the use of biopolymers: it is the first spandex in the world 80% of which is composed of an ecological material obtained from 100% renewable sources (corn), rather than petroleum byproducts. This product is intended to meet the needs of the medical/hygiene sector and satisfy the ever growing demands for eco-compatible primary materials on the part of the major brands in the textile and apparel sectors.
RADICI GROUP
ß Nouveaux développements à l’enseigne de l’innovation durable pour Radici Group qui vient de lancer un nouveau site Web dédié au CornLeaf (www.radicigroup.com/cornleaf), un fil réalisé avec un biopolymère à base d’acide polylactique (PLA) Ingeo, 100% naturel, dérivé de ressources végétales renouvelables. Comme l’affirme Daniele Dossi, responsable de la Recherche et du développement chez Noyfil : « Il s’agit d’un instrument utile et clair que nous offrons à tous nos clients actuels et potentiels, riche d’informations et de détails techniques ». Une autre nouveauté arrive de RadiciSpandex Corp, une entreprise américaine qui produit du Spandex sous la marque RadElast. Une nouvelle famille de fibres en élasthanne écologique utilisant un biopolymère est actuellement en cours de développement. (...)
ß Neue Entwicklungen im Zeichen der behauptbaren Neuerung für Radici Group, die die neue Web-Seite von CornLeaf (www. radicigroup.com/cornleaf) lanciert hat, dem mit Biopolymer auf Polylaktischer Säure (PLA) basierendem Garn, Ingeo, 100 % natürlich, aus erneuerbaren vegetarischen Hilfsquellen hergestellt. Wie Daniele Dossi R & D Noyfil bestätigt: “handelt es sich um ein nützliches und klares allen aktuellen und potentiellen Kunden, reich an Informationen und technischen Details, angebotenes Instrument.” Eine weitere Neuigkeit kommt von RadiciSpandex Corp., einer amerikanischen Firma, die in der Herstellung von Spandex der Marke RadElast aktiv ist. Eine neue Faserfamilie in öko- tragbarem Elastan ist in der Entwicklungsphase, erzielt durch die Verwendung von Biopolymer. (...)
ß Nuevos avances en materia de innovación sostenible para Radici Group, que ha lanzado el nuevo sitio web de CornLeaf (www.radicigroup.com/cornleaf), el hilo realizado con un biopolímero a base de ácido poliláctico (PLA) Ingeo, 100% natural, derivado de recursos vegetales renovables. Como afirma Daniele Dossi, I+D de Noyfil, «se trata de un instrumento claro y útil que ofrecemos a todos nuestros clientes actuales y potenciales, repleto de información y datos técnicos». La otra novedad proviene de RadiciSpandex Corp., una empresa estadounidense que produce elastán con la marca RadElast. Está desarrollando una nueva familia de fibras de elastán ecosostenibles, realizadas utilizando biopolímeros (...)
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www.radicigroup.com/Cornleaf/
ß Nuovi sviluppi all’insegna dell’innovazione sostenibile per Radici Group che ha lanciato il nuovo sito web di CornLeaf (www. radicigroup.com/cornleaf), il filo realizzato con biopolimero a base di acido polilattico (PLA) Ingeo, 100% naturale, derivato da risorse vegetali rinnovabili. Come afferma Daniele Dossi R&D Noyfil: “si tratta di uno strumento utile e chiaro offerto a tutti i clienti attuali e potenziali, ricco di informazioni e dettagli tecnici”. Altra novità proviene da RadiciSpandex Corp. azienda americana attiva nella produzione di spandex a marchio RadElast. È in fase di sviluppo una nuova famiglia di fibre in elastan ecosostenibili, ottenute mediante l’utilizzo di biopolimero. (...)
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operation twenty4 MERYL FIBER There have been a number of new developments and breakthroughs for the leading French company in the production of nylon 66. PA66 DTEX 78/34 FD MERYL Sylkharesse texture yarn FT is a texturized PA66 product with bonus of being anti-pilling, thanks to the special section of the fiber and a better balanced dernier. The resulting fiber is opaque, soft and boasts a natural appearance, finding ideal applications in the areas of stockings, seamless products and circular knits. Meryl Fiber has also come up with a product specially developed for use in the new “Coreyarn” technology, a product that makes it possible to produce luxury discontinuous yarns with improved performance, greater strength and enhanced comfort. The available counts are PA66 DTEX 78/13 SD FT HDPF and PA66 DTEX 35/7 SD FT HDPF which are used for making woven fabrics, rectilinear knits and circular knits in order to imbue the garments made from coreyarn with greater wrinkle resistance and better fit. ß L’entreprise française leader de la production de nylon 66 présente divers développements et nouveautés. Le PA66 DTEX 78/34 FD MERYL Sylkharesse texture yarn FT est un PA66 texturisé qui a la caractéristique d’être antiboulochage, grâce à la section particulière du fil et à sa finesse plus équilibrée. Ce fil mat et doux a un aspect naturel et est destiné au secteur des bas et collants, au seamless et à la maille circulaire. Meryl Fiber a, en outre, développé un produit spécifique lui permettant d’employer la nouvelle technologie “Coreyarn”, qui permet de produire des fils discontinus de prestige. (...) ß Es gibt verschiedene Neuigkeiten und Entwicklungen der französischen Betriebe, Leader in der Herstellung von Nylon 66. PA66 DTEX 78/34 FD MERYL Sylkharesse texture yarn FT ist ein texturierter PA66 mit der Eigenschaft, antipilling zu sein, dank der besonderen Sektion des Garns und einer ausgeglichenen Denaturierung. Der Faden resultiert glanzlos, weich, hat einen natürlichen Aspekt und wird auf dem Strumpfsektor verwendet, nahtlos und mit runder Masche. Meryl Fiber hat überdies ein Produkt, spezifisch für die Verwendung der neuen Technologie “Coreyarn”, entwickelt, das die Herstellung von diskontinuierlichen hochwertigen Garnen. (...) ß Diverse sono le novità e gli sviluppi dell’azienda francese leader nella produzione di nylon 66. PA66 DTEX 78/34 FD MERYL Sylkharesse texture yarn FT è un PA66 testurizzato con la caratteristica di essere antipilling, grazie alla sezione particolare del filo e a una denaratura più equilibrata. Il filo risulta opaco, morbido, ha un aspetto naturale e trova destinazione nel settore calze, seamless e maglia circolare. Meryl Fiber ha inoltre sviluppato un prodotto specifico per l’impiego nella nuova tecnologia “Coreyarn”, che permette la produzione di filati discontinui pregiati. (...)
RadiciGroup sustainable development strategy for 2010-2012
A reduction in greenhouse gas emissions of at least 20% below 1990 levels.
20% of energy consumption to come from renewable sources.
A 20% reduction in primary energy use compared with projected levels.
A 20% increment in recycled materials.
RadiciGroup: Chemicals, Plastics, Fibres and Textiles.
ß Son varias las novedades y los avances que presenta esta empresa francesa, líder en la fabricación de nailon 66. PA66 DTEX 78/34 FD MERYL Sylkharesse texture yarn FT es un hilo PA66 texturizado que se caracteriza por ser antipilling, gracias a la sección especial de la fibra y a un denier más equilibrado. El hilo resulta opaco, suave, de aspecto natural, y se utiliza en los sectores de la calcetería, la confección sin costuras y el punto circular. Además, Meryl Fiber ha desarrollado un producto específico para utilizarlo en la nueva tecnología «Coreyarn», que permite producir hilados discontinuos selectos. (...)
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// FIBRES AND YARNS // NILIT Nilit an international leader in the production of nylon 6.6, and LincSpun, a manufacturer of innovative yarns, have launched together a revolutionary new yarn, Trinomax AQ, that makes it possible to produce garments featuring characteristics promoting regulation of body heat, applications that are perfect for sports, activewear and hosiery. The combination of these high-performance materials is perfect for ensuring comfortable, lightweight garments that last a long time, meeting the requirements of sports enthusiasts and athletes. ß Nilit, le leader de la production de nylon 6.6, et LincSpun, un fabricant de fils innovants, se sont associés pour lancer le Trinomax AQ, un fil révolutionnaire qui unit de la laine Mérinos aux fibres Nilit 6.6 et Nilit Aquarius. Ce fil permet de réaliser des articles permettant une thermorégulation de la température corporelle. (...) ß Nilit, Leader in der Nylonherstellung 6.6 und LineSpun, ein Hersteller von erneuerten Garnen, haben zusammen Trinomax AQ auf den Markt gebracht, ein revolutionäres Garn, das Merinowolle, Nilit 6.6 und Nilit Aquarius verbindet. Das Garn gestattet die Realisierung von Teilen mit thermoregulierbaren Eigenschaften der Körpertemperatur . (...) ß Nilit leader nella produzione di nylon 6.6 e LincSpun, un produttore di filati innovativi hanno lanciato insieme Trinomax AQ un filo rivoluzionario che combina lana Merino, Nilit 6.6 e Nilit Aquarius. Il filato permette la realizzazione di capi dalle caratteristiche di termoregolazione della temperatura corporea. (...)
NILIT
ß Nilit (empresa líder en el sector de la producción de nailon 6.6) y LincSpun (productor de hilados innovadores) han lanzado Trinomax AQ, un hilo revolucionario que combina lana merina, Nilit 6.6 y Nilit Aquarius. Con este hilado se pueden confeccionar prendas que regulan la temperatura corporal. (...)
—— á ——
POLYESTER
// POLYESTER // POLIESTERE // POLIÉSTER // FILATURE MIROGLIO Newlife, presented at Expofil in February of 2011, is a complete collection of continuous yarns made from recycled polyester which has been 100% obtained from used plastic bottles, collection and processed in Italy. It will replace all the continuous polyester fibers made by the company by 2015. This project, entirely made in Italy and completely traceable, is distinguished by outstanding design, excellent performance features, high quality and, obviously, environmental friendliness. The range of yarns is available in the following versions: POY, pressed, texturized, microfiber and featuring filaments with a hollow section and can be successfully used in a number of sectors, from fashion, sports and high-tech clothing for outdoor use, to furnishings and accident preventing textiles. Filature Miroglio participates in the C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy) platform in order to make the most of the interaction between the companies in the sector and develop sustainable synergies in the industry by means of the Newlife range of products. C.L.A.S.S., founded in 2007, is a global network, boasting three strategically located showrooms (Milan, London and New York); it fosters and promotes eco-compatible products for the fashion, home and design sectors by means of a vast range of ecological fabrics, yarns, processes and services. NEWLIFE ß Le Newlife, présenté en février 2011 à Expofil, est un système complet de fils continus en polyester recyclé dérivé à 100% de bouteilles en plastique issues du tris sélectif, ramassées et transformées en Italie, qui remplacera tous les fils en polyester continu de la société d’ici à 2015. Le projet, entièrement « made in Italy » et traçable, se distingue de par son design, son niveau de performance, sa haute qualité et son respect total de l’environnement. La gamme de fils est disponible dans les versions : POY, étiré, texturisé, microfibre, à filaments creux, applicables au secteur de la mode, du sport, de l’habillement technique pour l‘outdoor, de l’ameublement, du textile anti-accident. (...)
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ß Newlife, präsentiert auf Expofil vom Februar 2011, ist ein komplettes System fortlaufender Fäden aus wieder verwendetem Polyester, zu 100 % aus gebrauchten Plastikflaschen stammend, die in Italien gesammelt und umgewandelt wurden, das alle fortlaufenden Polyesterfäden der Gesellschaft bis 2015 ersetzen wird. Das Projekt, vollständig made in Italy und rückverfolgbar, unterscheidet sich durch sein Design, erhöhte Leistungen, hohe Qualität und vollständigen Respekt für die Umwelt. Die Fadenskala ist verfügbar in den Versionen: POY, gedehnt, texturiert, Mikrofaser, hohles Garn Sektion, in den Sektoren für Mode, Sport, technische Außen-Bekleidung, Einrichtungen und dem für unfallsichere Stoffe verwendbar. (...) ß Newlife, presentato a Expofil di febbraio 2011, è un sistema completo di fili continui di poliestere riciclato derivati al 100% da bottiglie di plastica postconsumo raccolte e trasformate in Italia, che sostituirà tutti i fili di poliestere continuo della società entro il 2015. Il progetto, interamente made in Italy e tracciabile, si distingue in termini di design, elevate prestazioni, alta qualità e rispetto totale per l‘ambiente. La gamma di fili è disponibile nelle versioni: POY, stirato, testurizzato, microfibra, sezione bava cava, applicabili al settore della moda, dello sport, dell’abbigliamento tecnico per l‘outdoor, dell’arredamento, del tessile antinfortunistico. (...) ß Newlife, presentado en el Expofil de febrero de 2011, es un sistema completo de hilos continuos de poliéster reciclado realizados al 100% con botellas de plástico usadas, recolectadas y transformadas en Italia; para el año 2015, este hilo sustituirá todos los hilos de poliéster continuo de la empresa. El proyecto, hecho totalmente en Italia y con trazabilidad completa, se diferencia por su diseño, sus grandes prestaciones, la gran calidad y el respeto absoluto por el medio ambiente. La gama de hilos está disponible en las versiones POY, estirado, texturizado, microfibra, filamentos de sección hueca, y encuentra aplicaciones en el sector de la moda, el deporte, la ropa técnica para las actividades al aire libre, la decoración de interiores y los tejidos usados en la prevención de accidentes. (...)
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YARNS
// FILS // GARNE // FILATI //
MADEIRA
MADEIRA During the last session of Munich Fabric Start the company presented various examples of complex embroidery work and dramatic woven effects. Madeira works in partnership with its customers and operates from a digital design in order to come up with the best rendition of the same on fabrics, using only the best fabrics and yarns. New developments for this season include the fluorescent effects of Frosted Matt, the opaque polyester made by Madeira, as well as Burmilana with its wool-like effect, the variegated nuances of the viscose yarn, Classic, and the metallic effects of the FS yarns. ß À l’occasion de la dernière édition de Munich Fabric Start, Madeira a présenté divers prototypes de broderies complexes et de surjetages à effet. Madeira, qui travaille en partenariat avec ses clients, part d’un dessin numérique qui est ensuite développé de manière optimale sur des tissus, avec des fils et des matériaux de qualité. Parmi les nouveautés de la saison, nous citerons les effets fluorescents du Frosted Matt, le fil polyester mat de Madeira, mais aussi le fil de caractère laineux Burmilana, la viscose Classic aux teintes variées et les effets métallisés des fils FS. (...) ß Anlässlich der letzten Ausgabe von Munich Fabric Start hat die Firma verschiedene Beispiele von komplizierten Stickereien und von wirkungsvollen Gewinde vorgeführt. Madeira arbeitet zusammen mit ihren Kunden und geht von der digitalen Zeichnung aus, um sie so gut wie möglich mit Qualitätsfäden und –Materialien an den Stoffen zu entwickeln. Neuheit der Saison sind die fluoreszierenden Effekte von Frosted Matt, dem matten Polyester von Madeira, aber auch Burmilana vom Wolleffekt, die verschieden farbigen Schattierungen der Viskose Classic und die metallenen Effekte der FS- Fäden. (...)
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// FIBRES AND YARNS // ß In occasione dell’ultima edizione di Munich Fabric Start l’azienda ha presentato diversi esempi di ricami complessi e di filettature ad effetto. Madeira lavora in partnership con i suoi clienti e parte dal disegno digitale per svilupparlo al meglio su tessuti, con fili e materiali di qualità. Novità di stagione sono gli effetti fluorescenti di Frosted Matt, il poliestere opaco di Madeira, ma anche Burmilana dall’effetto lana, le sfumature variegate della viscosa Classic e gli effetti metallizzati dei filati FS. (...) ß Con ocasión de la última edición de Munich Fabric Start, la empresa ha presentado varios ejemplos de bordados complejos y ribetes con efecto. Madeira trabaja en asociación con sus clientes y, partiendo del diseño digital, lo desarrolla al máximo en el tejido, con hilados y materiales de calidad. Las novedades de esta temporada son los efectos fluorescentes de Frosted Matt y el poliéster opaco de Madeira, así como Burmilana con efecto de lana, los matices variegados de la viscosa Classic y los efectos metalizados de los hilados FS. (...)
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OTHERS
// AUTRES // ANDERES // ALTRI // OTROS // AQUAFIL - DRYARN The department of the Science of Materials and Chemical Engineering of the Polytechnic of Turin, in collaboration with the Textile and Health Association recently completed a project involving the evaluation of the thermo-physiological comfort of a 100% Dryarn fabric, compared with equivalent fabrics made from cotton, nylon and polyester. Physical laboratory tests have demonstrated that Dryarn provides better performance that the other La termografia è stata utilizzata per ottenere fotogrammi delle prove al fine di poter valutare le mappe di sudurazione del soggetto e delle T-shirt in tutte le fasi del test. fabrics examined in terms of lightness, speed of Le zone più fredde (in blu) indicano la presenza del sudore. drying and the ability to transfer perspiration to the outside, not to mention excellent heat regulating properties. The test between the fibers conducted in an environmental chamber made it possible to focus on the real behavior of T-shirts made from Dryarn fabric over the course of strenuous working trials designed to stimulate high levels of perspiration. The test was carried out in four steps: initial acclimatization; three phases of strenuous physical activity lasting 10 minutes and a final recovery phase. All the parameters that were monitored during the trials conducted on the volunteers clearly demonstrated the superior aptitude of Dryarn over normal fabrics for the creation of wearing apparel intended for athletic uses. ß Les départements de Science des matériaux et de Génie chimique de l’Institut polytechnique de Turin, en collaboration avec l’Association Textile et santé, ont récemment finalisé une étude visant à évaluer le confort thermophysiologique d’un tissu 100% Dryarn, par rapport à des tissus équivalents en coton, nylon et polyester. Les essais physiques en laboratoire ont permis de constater que le Dryarn garantissait de meilleures performances que les autres tissus examinés, et ce, en termes de légèreté, de rapidité de séchage, de capacité de véhiculer la sueur vers l’extérieur et de pouvoir thermorégulant. (...) ß Die Abteilung für Materialwissenschaft und Chemisches Ingenieurwesen vom Politecnico in Turin, in Zusammenarbeit mit dem Verein Textil und Gesundheit hat kürzlich ein Projekt für die Bewertung des thermophysiologischen Komforts eines Stoffes aus 100 % Dryarn, gegenüber gleichwertigen Stoffen aus Baumwolle, Nylon und Polyester, beendet. Aus den physischen Proben ging hervor, dass Dryarn eine bessere Performance gegenüber anderen getesteten Stoffen, betreffend der Leichtigkeit, Trockenschnelligkeit, Fähigkeit den Schweiß nach Außen zu befördern und eine hervorragende thermoregulierbare Fähigkeit garantiert. (...) ß Il dipartimento di Scienza dei Materiali e Ingegneria Chimica del Politecnico di Torino, in collaborazione con l’Associazione Tessile e Salute ha recentemente portato a termine un progetto per la valutazione del comfort termofisiologico di un tessuto in 100% Dryarn, confrontato con tessuti equivalenti in cotone, nylon e poliestere. Nei testi fisici di laboratorio è risultato che Dryarn garantisce migliori performance rispetto agli altri tessuti esaminati, in termini di leggerezza, velocità di asciugatura, capacità di veicolare il sudore all’esterno e un ottimo potere termoregolante. (...) ß El departamento de Ciencias de los Materiales e Ingeniería Química del Politécnico de Turín, en colaboración con la Associazione Tessile e Salute, recientemente ha llevado a cabo un proyecto de evaluación de la comodidad termofisiológica de un tejido 100% de Dryarn, en comparación con tejidos equivalentes de algodón, nailon y poliéster. Los ensayos físicos en laboratorio han demostrado que Dryarn garantiza mejores prestaciones que los demás tejidos examinados, en términos de ligereza, rapidez de secado, capacidad de canalizar el sudor hacia el exterior y excelentes características de termorregulación. (...) ß Pour lire l’article ß Um die artikel lesen ß Per leggere l’articolo ß Para leer l’articulo
www.bodywaresinternational.com
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// EQUIPMENT & SERVICES //
Karl Mayer SEAMLESS GARMENTS FOR SHAPING
ARTICLES SANS COUTURE, EFFET SHAPING // NAHTLOSE TEILE, FORMENDE WIRKUNG //CAPI SEAMLESS, EFFETTO SHAPING PRENDAS SIN COSTURAS, EFECTO MOLDEADOR With the DJ 6/2 machine the company has developed techniques for producing panties that are invisible beneath clothing, also providing a shaping effect Great innovation and practical ease in the making up of garments have always been the main selling points of Karl Mayer which thanks to two new processes developed for the DJ 6/2 machine make it possible to obtain tubular fabrics in which all the elements of the finished garment have already been included during the warping process. The first technique (Cut-andturn design, photo 1) produces a tubular fabric in which the borders of the finished product are created panty to panty. The seam along the left side, the “U” shaped seam that connects the two legs and the one on the right side are worked one after another at right angles to the fabric on the machine working in a gauge of E28. The elastic band at the waist, the one for the thighs and a dainty floral pattern found in the tummy area are also created during the production process. In order to obtain finished panties all that remains to be done is simply turn the garment inside out at the end of the process and it is then possible to slip it on immediately. The second technique (side-seamless design, photo 2) is also based on the principle of producing two halves, but with different symmetrical aspects. The two parts are joined by the central seam on the inside of the leg which runs from the center of the waist to the center of the back. In this way the crucial hip area is left completely seamless and the panty serves to show off the natural curves of the body. For further information just click onto: www.karlmayer.de ß L’entreprise allemande a développé pour son DJ 6/2 des techniques qui permettent de réaliser des collants invisibles sous les vêtements, effet modelant en prime. La capacité d’innover et la praticité de la construction des articles sont depuis toujours les points forts de Karl Mayerqui a mis au point deux nouveaux procédés conçus pour le métier DJ 6/2, qui permettent d’obtenir des tissus tubulaires dans lesquels tous les éléments de l’article fini sont insérés au cours du procédé d’ourdissage. (...) www.bodywaresinternational.com ß Mit der DJ 6/2 hat die Firma Techniken entwickelt, um Pantys mit modellierender Wirkung zu realisieren die unter der Kleidung unsichtbar sind. Grosse Neuerungen und bequeme Anwendbarkeit in der Herstellung der Teile sind immer die Eckpfeiler von Karl Mayer gewesen, die es Dank der zwei neuen für die DJ 6/2 erfundenen Herstellungsvorgänge ermöglicht, schlauchförmige Stoffe zu erhalten, bei denen alle Elemente des fertigen Teils während des Kettenschervorganges eingeführt sind. (...) www.bodywaresinternational.com ß Con la DJ 6/2 l’azienda ha sviluppato tecniche per realizzare panty invisibili sotto gli abiti, anche dall’effetto modellante. Grande innovazione e praticità nella costruzione dei capi sono sempre stati i capisaldi di Karl Mayer che grazie ai due nuovi processi ideati per la DJ 6/2 permette di ottenere tessuti tubolari, in cui tutti gli elementi del capo finito sono inseriti durante il processo di orditura. (...) www.bodywaresinternational.com ß Con DJ 6/2, la empresa ha desarrollado técnicas para confeccionar pantys que no marcan bajo la ropa, incluso con efecto moldeador. Desde siempre, la gran innovación y la funcionalidad en la confección de las prendas son las piedras angulares de Karl Mayer que, gracias a dos nuevos procesos creados para DJ 6/2, permite obtener tejidos tubulares en los que todos los elementos de la prenda final se introducen durante proceso de urdimbre.. (...) www.bodywaresinternational.com // TIPS: www.karlmayer.de //
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We care about your future from lace, net curtains, clothing and functional textiles to technical textiles, as well as a full range of warp preparation systems for weaving and warp knitting. We have the expertise to support you in developing your own specific solutions. Let us put your ideas in motion!
www.karlmayer.de
Strength and success go hand in hand – and demand the right equipment. Whatever your work involves, we are at your side – with the right technology to turn your goals, plans and visions into reality. We can supply warp knitting machines for producing every type of product,
t… a u o See y1 11
201 er 20 ITMA temb p e S 9 22 – 2 na, Spain –157 lo e B 153 Barc h t o o ,B Hall 3
KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH Brühlstrasse 25 • 63179 Obertshausen • Germany • Phone +49 6104 4020 • Fax +49 6104 402600 • info@karlmayer.de
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// BUSINESS NEWS // Trevira GmbH is going to have some new stockholders: Indorama Ventures PCL and Sinterama join forces to acquire Trevira, the polyester fiber manufacturer headquartered in Bobingen. In February 2011 the parties involved in the jointventure signed an agreement for the acquisition with the liquidator, Werner Schneider. In the wake of the declaration of insolvency back in 2009, Schneider managed to put together a new Trevira, a process that was finalized in January of 2011; since then he has been acting as the sole stockholder and has been acting as the head of the board of directors. “The alliance of a European manufacturer specializing in colored fibers and boasting a global presence with the largest manufacturer of polyester in the world offers Trevira a promising future,” Schneider was happy to say.
Greg Vas Nunes
The beginning of May the European Parliament approved the regulations regarding the labeling of textile products, legislation with the aim of providing greater certainty on the part of the consumers when it comes to the composition and origin of the products they are purchasing. This particular action is limited to this sector and could represent a valid model when it comes to the council determining the rules regarding “made in” labeling, obligatory for all goods coming from outside the EU. This move is considered to be of fundamental importance by the textile trade associations active in Italy, such as SMI, whose president, Michele Tronconi, along with Paolo Zegna, the vice-president of Confindustria, recently summoned the European parliamentarians who are promoting the project in an effort to promote a vote by the European Council in this regard by the end of the year.
Thanks to the acquisition of Germany’s Dorix GmbH Radici Group it is renewing and further expanding its range of flocked products and the variety of mass-dyed colors, reinforcing its integration into the polyamide production sector. With a volume of business of some ten million euros, Dorix GmbH is the European leader in the production of PA6 flocked products.
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Performance Fibers, a specialized manufacturer of industrial polyester fibers and fabrics in America, Europe and Asia has confirmed the nomination of Greg Vas Nunes as president of Performance Fibers Europe. Vas Nunes, gained some ten of his thirty-one years of experience in the fiber sector working for Dupont, Invista and Hyosung in three different parts of the world, officially took over the duties of his new office in February of 2011 and will be working at the company’s European general headquarters in Luxembourg.
Harmont&Blaine
Harmont & Blaine and Albisetti have signed a deal for the manufacture and distribution of underwear and beachwear. Albisetti spa will be manufacturing and distributing the lines of underwear and beachwear bearing the distinctive dachshund emblem for the next three years. This licensing agreements will go into force with the SS season of 2012. “The deal we have signed with Albisetti,” explained the managing director of Harmont & Blaine, Mr. Domenico Menniti, “is a very important agreement because it will further boost the value of the brand and enable us to break into new markets”.
Pompea spa has announced the appointment of Vincenzo Leombruno as its new head of sales for Italy and the foreign market. The new manager will have the task of coordinating, not only retail activities and marketing strategies, but will also be involved in a manufacturing focus that guarantees the development of the Pompea Group brand. “I selected to work for Pompea because for the last ten years I have enjoyed a relationship of mutual respect with its president, Adriano Rodella, and I wanted to put at the company’s service all my managerial experience in the field of large-scale consumption,” commented Mr. Leombruno. The manager boasts a great deal of experience as the commercial director of the large-scale consumption division of the Angelini Group where he was involved in market planning activities, media and external affairs.
Vincenzo Leombruno
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www.lingerie-paris.com
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Contact : T.+33 1 47 56 32 32 | sil@eurovet.fr
paris expo - porte de versailles - pavilions 3 & 4
21 - 22 - 23 January 2012
THE FAmous world of intimates
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13.14.15 settembre 2011 portello fieramilanocity
13 EDIzIONe autunno inverno 2012/13 °
Tessuti e Accessori di alta gamma per la donna e l’uomo
On STAGE www.milanounica.it
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FASHION SHOW AREA woman ready to wear and underwear a/w 2011-12
The featured look on the international catwalks is that of a chic woman who is fond of couture details, as well as ethno-folk accents, oriental panache, romantic fluidity and bold color contrasts or delicate nuances. Total lengths, completely feminine fullness draped effects and transparency distinguish a prêt-à-porter look that borrows style and detail from the realm of foundation garments and lingerie. ß La protagoniste des défilés internationaux est une femme chic qui aime les détails couture tout comme les touches ethno-folk, les suggestions orientales et la fluidité romantique, les contrastes de couleurs marqués ou encore les nuances délicates. Les longueurs franches, les ampleurs très féminines, les drapés et les transparences dessinent un prêtà-porter qui emprunte le style et les détails de la corsetterie et de la lingerie. ß Die Hauptfigur der internationalen Laufstege ist eine schicke Frau, die modische Einzelheiten liebt, aber auch etno-folk Akzente, orientalische Suggestionen und romantische Flüssigkeit, starke chromatische Gegensätze und delikate Nuancen. Komplette Längen, ganz weibliche Weiten, Faltenwürfe und Durchsichtigkeit unterstreichen ein prêt-à-porter, das sich Stil und Einzelheiten von Miederwaren und Wäsche ausleiht. ß La protagonista delle passerelle internazionali è una donna chic, che ama i dettagli couture ma anche accenti etno-folk, suggestioni orientali e fluidità romantiche, forti contrasti cromatici o nuance delicate. Lunghezze totali, ampiezze tutte femminili, drappeggi e trasparenze delineano un prêt-à-porter che prende a prestito stile e dettagli da corsetteria e lingerie. ß La protagonista de las pasarelas internacionales es una mujer chic, que ama los detalles couture y también los sabores etno-folk, las sugerencias de Oriente y la fluidez romántica, los contrastes intensos de colores y los matices delicados. Los largos totales, las anchuras muy femeninas, los drapeados y las transparencias delinean un prêt-à-porter que hace suyos el estilo y los detalles de la corsetería y la lencería.
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// NEWSDESK //
SLOGGI+SENSITIVE Sharing Sloggi’s commitment to environmental protec-
tion is Eurojersey, the Italian company behind Sensitive, the microfibre that helps to create the fabulous feelgood factor for which Sloggi is renowned. Top quality Sensitive microfibre is soft and supple and ensures perfect fit. It dries much faster than most other swimwear fabrics, is more chlorine resistant, has a high UV protection factor and does not pill - in short it’s the perfect no-fuss fabric for Sloggi’s free and easy swim collections. But more than that, Sensitive accomplishes quality and excellence whilst reducing environmental impact, an achievement that Sloggi wholeheartedly supports. The brand has been proud to use Sensitive for almost all their swim pieces since Sloggi swim’s first collection in 2005, thus in 2010, the brand enthusiastically joined Eurojersey’s eco project “One Metre of Fabric for One Metre of Forest”, to help preserve the Yaboti Biosphere Reserve in Argentina.
Sloggi SS 2012
PIAVE MAITEX It is the hit of the moment: man claims his
role in the universe of underwear and Piave Maitex answer is promptly available with PM MAN’S LINE – Underwear Collection a new line of light and soft fabrics, comfortable and shaping, made of natural fibers or soft microfiber yarns, designed for all levels of wellbeing, up to achieving the unthinkable that is the multifunctional engineered band with differentiated stretch, put in simple words, shapewear for men. MACPI 514.37
MACPI
The constant quest for breakthroughs capable of making possible high-quality thermo-adhesive products while also optimizing the manufacturing process has resulted in the Macpi company coming up with two very promising new pieces of equipment. The 514.37 automatic bonding carousel is designed with three head shapes that can be similar or different from one another thanks to their easy interchangeability. This latter development creates a complete work station that enables the operator to execute three different operations. The machine comes with an electrically heated adhesive station and a cooling area that ensures quick polymerization of the adhesive. The 337.30 machine makes it possible to apply an adhesive and/or an elastic element to the border of the fabric while at the same time evening up the border or applying ribbons. The precise heating system, the easy management of the parameters with the new Touch Screen technology and the differential all serve to render this machine one of a kind, capable of being used for both intimate apparel items and high-tech apparel.
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ph. Franco Lombardi
>> LA NUOVA PROSPETTIVA DEL COLORE <<
>> Tessuti Carvico S.p.A.: la direzione giusta da seguire per vestire di nuovi colori il beachwear pi첫 di tendenza e lo sportswear pi첫 performante. <<
www.carvico.com
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The Pleasure of Challenge
20-06-2011 18:12:01
// FAIR OUTLOOK //
INTERFILIÈRE - MODE CITY 9 - 11 JULY, PARIS
A myriad of new developments can be found at Interfilière 2011 which, together with Mode City, is opening its door to exhibitors and buyers during the month of July instead of September. This represents a revolutionary change in scheduling which will have a profound influence on market behavior, not to mention the expectations of the industry members who are wondering if the change will really prove to satisfy the needs of all parties involved. The decorative theme and setup of Interfilière is meant to represent an invitation to travel and explore foreign countries as well as within the fair pavilion itself (hall 1), with the exhibit of the images made by the exhibitors. The latter have been divided up into six sectors (Lace It, Brod’Cust, Neoskin, Hi’Tech, Designers Textiles and Boureaux de style) with a number of new entries from all over the world as well as companies that have decided to return due to the introduction of the new dates. As usual a great deal of space is being devoted to the trends with the “Beachwear and Leisure” forum and the one devoted to lingerie, “Tempations”, for which guided tours will be available upon request. There is also the Short Cut space, featuring a selection of fabrics that will be available in small quantities, perfect for young designers, and a section called Upcycling, dealing with the new trend involving of bringing back to life past collections. An important repeat event will be the Ultra fashion show of lingerie and beachwear prototypes created by the exhibitors showing at Mode City in collaboration with the fabric manufacturers of Interfilière, this year featuring the theme Carnets de Voyage. www.interfiliere.com
INTERFILIèRE, TREND FORUM DESIGN FOR THE 2011 JULY ISSUE
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MARE D’AMARE 16 - 18 JULY, PARIS
The picturesque pavilions of the Fortezza Da Basso exhibition facility in Florence will be hosting the fourth edition of the Italian beachwear fair which will be featuring the beachwear collections for 2012 presented on a preview basis by the most famous and qualified European companies. This fair will be much bigger than the last one, taking up fully 11,000 square meters as opposed to the 7,000 of the previous session, hosting some 150 brands, significantly up from the 120 of the last edition. The buyers will be able to view the collections on display and there will be lots to amaze them, in no small part thanks to the catwalk stage active each day, presenting fashion shows several times a day. A major new development for the fair is the debut of an Internet platform that will enable those who are not able to actually attend in person to access the stands and collections by means of a computer. Mare D’Amare Digital will be presented live on a streaming basis in real time in order to allow MARE D’AMARE FASHION SHOW FROM THE LAST EDITION for direct, immediate access. The users will be able to utilize it my means of a password and then proceed to make their selections and contact the companies they are interested in. www.maredamare.eu
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THE LEADING TRADE FAIR FOR INTIMATES & BEACHWEAR FABRICS
21I22I23 JANUARY 2012 PARIS EXPO - PORTE DE VERSAILLES - PAV. 3
WWW.INTERFILIERE.COM
// FAIR OUTLOOK //
MOD’AMONT
20 - 22 SEPTEMBER, PARIS For its upcoming session which will be held from 20 to 22 September 2011, ModAmont will gather not less than 280 exhibitors. Among them, 24 new international companies come to strengthen the existing offer with products such as belts, pocketing fabrics, labels, leather accessories, bows etc. The autumn/winter 2012/2013 trends will be presented on the general forum display and the other forums – jewel case, leathergoods & shoes and index – will show the wide variety of products proposed by ModAmont exhibitors. Beside, ModAmont will display the collection of the ModAmont Award winner at ITS – the International Talent Support competition. Indeed, for the second time ModAmont is a supporter in the Accessories category and will offer the prize during the ITS#10 edition in next July, in Trieste - Italy. www.modamont.com THE LAST EDITION OF MOD’AMONT
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2011 Hyères Festival Céline Méteil wins the Première Vision Prize
The jury, presided over by Raf Simons, unveils the winners: French designer Céline Méteil has won the Première Vision Prize, one of the two prizes attributed in the Fashion Competition of the prestigious Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography. Céline Méteil created a collection of airy and structured origami-dresses made from jaconas. This stiff and transparent cotton plain weave is ordinarily employed to create a three-dimensional muslin prototype of a garment. “Baptised Plié-Backstage“, the collection was produced with the support of Sophie Hallette, Marioboselli Yarns&Jersey and TESJ, all Première Vision exhibitors, and Close to Clothes, a ModAmont exhibitor. RAF SIMONS AT HYÈRES FESTIVAL
—— á ——
INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI Apparel Fabrics 18-21 October, Shanghai
This fair has grown fully 30% over the 2010 edition. For the October 2011 session it will be set up in hall 13, occupying some 150,000 square meters of space, including two areas devoted to accessories and complements, three international halls devoted to Germany, Japan, Italy, South Korea and Taiwan, as well as a new entry, Spain, while the remaining pavilion will be reserved for the Chinese suppliers. For the first time at the Shanghai fair Messe Frankfurt and Eco Textile News will be co-organizing a series of conferences on sustainability entitled, “Planet Textiles”, in which the exhibitors will be able to attend a series of talks by the clothing producers from China and Hong Kong, as well as experts and representatives of the government who will be speaking of China’s efforts to improve on the environmental front and in terms of industrial energy and water savings programs. www.messefrankfurt.com.hk THE LAST EDITION OF INTERTEXTILE
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modamont.com
20 22 SEPT. 2011 PARIS-NORD VILLEPINTE HALL3
INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW OF TRIMMING AND SUPPLIES FOR FASHION AND DESIGN
// FAIR OUTLOOK //
MARE DI MODA 23-25 NOVEMBER, CANNES A fair that is continuing to grow each time it is held and has already managed to establish itself as a point of reference for the beachwear and underwear sectors, but especially in terms of acting as a sort of ambassador of the great European culture that in other contexts is becoming more and more hard to find. There are all sorts of events scheduled for the tenth edition, outstanding among which are the CLAUDIO TAIANA - PRESIDENT MARE DI MODA 2010 by now celebrated talent scouting competition, The Link, participated in by some one hundred fashion and communication schools throughout Europe and the area devoted to outsourcing, called EuroMed. In terms of industry-wide communication efforts they are continuing with the claim, “Europeans do it Better”, which captures the spirit and values of the fair, flanked by a Mona Lisa in costume to symbolize the time-honored European values when it comes to style and taste. www.maredimoda.com
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TISSU PREMIER Renewal and innovation
The international fabric and accessories fair, a leader in the field of fast-fashion, has inaugurated the new spring dates for this major trade event from the 15th to the 16th of June at the Grand Palais in Lille. This particular session marked a major renewal of the fair which in addition to the usual products (textiles for men, women and children, plus sportswear) also added three platforms, expanding its already considerable selection: Designer/ creation print, Sourcing prêt-à-porter, Supplying accessories. And an enormous effort has also been made in the area of trend research for autumn-winter 2012-2013, as well as the forums and special features for the buyers.
www.tissu-premier.com
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PERFORMANCE DAYS ANNECY - MUNICH
RECYCLED MATERIALS BY CHARLINE DUCAS, MUNICH
FAIR OUTLOOK_07.indd 6
The sixth edition of the fair devoted to high performance fabrics tallied up an enormous success both in terms of the event held at Annecy (12/13 May) as well as the one held in Munich (16/17 May). The number of buyers was up significantly (with 65% more than in attendance at the last fair) and so was the figure for the exhibitors, for a total of 80 companies coming from some twenty different countries. All sorts of important events were scheduled for industry members, like the conferences, the trend presentation, the Performance Award ceremony and the spaces for promising young designers. www.performancedays.eu
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European Beachwear and Underwear Fabrics and Accessories Collections 23-24-25 November 2011 Cannes Palais des Festivals get your freepass on www.maredimoda.com
// FAIR OUTLOOK //
SIMM - Salón Internacional de la Moda de Madrid 1-3 SEPTEMBER, MADRID
The lookout is very positive for the upcoming edition of the Internation Fashion Fair of Madrid which will be hosting more than 400 domestic and foreign fashion companies on 13,000 square meters of exhibition space divided up into the following sectors: Class, Charm, Natural, Agents, Gala, Touch, Moon&Sun and Ready, plus the new EGO sector devoted to promising young designer which will be hosting 21 up-and-coming talents. The 66th edition will boast an interesting program of parallel activities that will be held in the Speaker’s Corner Forum, featuring seminars, presentations and conferences of current interest to the clothing manufacturing industry. www.ifema.es/ferias/simm/default_i.html
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5 ELEMENTS.BERLIN Canceled the Summer 2011 edition
The show of lingerie and beachwear 5.elements.berlin, which use to be held in the German capital since the summer of 2009, has canceled its next edition, that should have been held from 3th to 5th July, so close to Bread & Butter, the largest trade show that shows the young fashion scene from 3th to 5th July at Tempelhof. The organizers leave open the possibility of a return with a renewed concept in January 2012. www.5elements-berlin.de ß Pour lire l’article ß Um die artikel lesen ß Per leggere l’articolo ß Para leer l’articulo
// COMING EVENTS //
www.bodywaresinternational.com PITTI FILATI Where: Florence, Fortezza Da Basso When: 5-7 July 2011 What: yarns Info: www.pittimmagine.com INTERFILIÈRE - MODE CITY Where: Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Pavillon 1 When: 9-11 july 2011 What: beachwear, lingerie, fabrics Info: www.mode-city.com MARE DA MARE Where: Florence, Fortezza Da Basso When: 16-18 July 2011 What: beachwear Info: www.maredamare.eu CPD SIGNATURES Where: Düsseldorf, Exhibition Centre When: 23–25 July 2011 What: womenswear and unisex collections, young fashion, lifestyle and sportswear Info: www.igedo.de/cpd SIMM Where: Madrid, Recinto Ferial, IFEMA When: 1-3 September 2011 What: womenswear, accessories, designer Info: www.ifema.es PRÈT-À-PORTER PARIS Where: Paris Expo – (Hall 7) Porte de Versailles, Paris When: 3-6 September 2011 What: prêt-à-porter Info: www.pretparis.com
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WHO’S NEXT Where: Paris, Hall1/2.2 Porte de Versailles When: 3-6 September 2011 What: young designer, urbanwear Info: www.whosnext.com MILANO UNICA Where: Fiera Milano City Area Portello When: 13-15 September 2011 What: fabrics, accessories Info: www.milanounica.it KYIV FASHION Where: KyivExpoPlaza, Ukraine When: 13-16 September 2011 What: intimate apparel, beachwear and hosiery Info: www.kyivfashion.kiev.ua CIBELES MADRID FASHION WEEK Where: Ifema Feria de Madrid, Pab. 14.1 When: 16-20 September 2011 What: beachwear and lingerie Info: www.ifema.es TEXWORLD Where: Paris Le Bourget When: 19-22 September 2011 What: fabrics Info: texworld.messefrankfurt.com LAS VEGAS INTERNATIONAL LINGERIE SHOW Where: Las Vegas, Rio Hotel When: 19-21 September 2011 What: intimate apparel Info: www.lingerieshow.cc
PREMIÈRE VISION PLURIEL Where: Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte When: 20-22 September 2011 What: fabrics, yarns, accessories Info: www.premierevision-pluriel.com FILO Where: Centro Congressi “Le Stelline” Milan When: 12-13 October 2011 What: fabrics Info: www.filo.it SHANGHAI MODE LINGERIE Where: Shanghai Exhibition Center When: 18-19 October 2011 What: Intimate apparel Info: www.shanghai-mode-lingerie.com INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS Where: Shanghai New Intern. Expo Centre When: 18-21 October 2011 What: apparel fabrics and accessories Info: www.messefrankfurt.com.hk MARE DI MODA Where: Cannes Palais des Festivals When: 23-25 November 2011 What: fabrics and accessories Info: www.maredimoda.com INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL Where: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Hong Kong When: 14-16 March 2012 What: fabrics Info: www.messefrankfurt.com.hk
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16-17-18 LUGLIO 2011 FORTEZZA DA BASSO, FIRENZE www.maredamare.eu
PER CHI COME NOI CREDE NELL’EVOLUZIONE DELLA SPECIE. 195x275.indd 1
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Label - Packaging - Shopper - Poster - Accessori RICERCA, STILE, PROGETTAZIONE GRAFICA Via Nuova Ponente 38/2 - 41012 Carpi (MO) - Italy tel. +39 059 6550273 fax +39 059 685494 vendite@logostil.it commerciale@logostil.it www.logostil.it
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abbonamenti subcription abbonamen BODYWARES INTERNATIONAL
La rivista specializzata del bodywear. Si rivolge agli stilisti, ai produttori e ai distributori in private label di abbigliamento intimo, mare, calze e sport. Fornisce un ampio ventaglio di informazioni indispensabili a chi opera nel campo dello stile, della produzione, delle vendite, del marketing e della pianificazione aziendale. Bodywares è una pubblicazione internazionale in cinque lingue che copre tutti gli aspetti della creazione e della produzione.
2 edizioni all’anno Gennaio, Luglio Prezzo copia singola: 20,00
The specialized magazine of bodywear. For designers, producers and private label distributors of intimate apparel, swimwear, hosiery and fitness. A magazine that provides the widest range of essential information for those who operates in the sector of style, production, sales, marketing and strategy planning. An international publication in five languages that covers all aspects of bodywear creation and production.
2 issues per year January, July
www.bodywaresinternational.com
BEACHWEAR ON STAGE Tutto il beachwear del mondo. Oltre 300 pagine di sfilate, per informare gli operatori professionali del settore. Dalle passerelle mondiali, le sfilate di moda mare dei più quotati stilisti internazionali e delle maggiori aziende produttrici.
1 edizione all’anno
Novembre Prezzo copia singola: 20,00
All the beachwear in the world. More than 300 pages of fashion shows, providing information for industry members throughout the field. From all over the world, the most talked-about beach- and swimwear fashion shows presented by the best-known designers and most important producers.
1 issue per year
November
www.beachwearonstage.com
BLINT INTERNATIONAL La rivista leader del settore in Spagna. Strumento di lavoro indispensabile per i vostri acquisti, per conoscere il mercato spagnolo e le sue tendenze più innovative e commerciali. Panorama completo sulle collezioni di abbigliamento intimo, mare e calze per donna e uomo, degli stilisti e delle aziende con reportage dai saloni e dalle passarelle internazionali. L'economia del mercato.
3 edizioni all’anno Gennaio, Aprile, Settembre Prezzo copia singola: 20,00
The leading trade magazine in Spain. An indispensable professional tool for your purchase, which helps you to discover the spanish market and the most innovative and commercial trends. Detailed information regarding intimate apparel, swimwear and hosiery collections for both women and men of designers and trade companies. Reportages from international fairs and fashion catwalks.
3 issues per year
January, April, September
www.blint.es ABBONAMENTI_07.indd 2
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menti subcription abbonamenti subcrip INTIMO PIÙ MARE
La rivista leader del settore. Un indispensabile strumento di lavoro per i vostri acquisti e per individuare le tendenze più innovative e più commerciali del settore. Un panorama completo sulle collezioni di abbigliamento intimo, mare e calze per donna e uomo, degli stilisti e delle aziende. I reportage dai saloni e dalle passerelle internazionali. L’economia dei mercati. I trend che fanno moda.
5 edizioni all’anno
Gennaio, Marzo, Giugno, Settembre, Novembre Prezzo copia singola: 20,00 The leading trade magazine. An indispensable professional tool for purchase which helps you in recognizing the most innovative and commercial trends in the sector. Detailed information regarding intimate apparel, swimwear and hosiery collections for both women and men of designers and trade companies. Reportages from international fairs and fashion catwalks. Financial columns and the latest fashion trends.
5 issues per year
January, March, June, September, November
www.intimopiumare.com
MAGLIERIA ITALIANA L'unica rivista specializzata in maglieria e filati. Oltre 250 pagine dedicate in esclusiva alla maglieria. Un panorama completo sulle collezioni di maglieria donna e uomo, le sfilate degli stilisti, i filati e colori, le tendenze moda, le principali fiere italiane ed estere del settore.
4 edizioni all’anno
Febbraio, Giugno, Settembre, Novembre Prezzo copia singola: 15,00 The only magazine specialized in knitwear and yarns. More than 250 pages dedicated exclusively to knitwear. Complete and detailed information on knitwear collections for both women and men, on designer fashion shows, on yarns and colours, fashion trends, on main Italian and foreign fairs of the sector.
4 issues per year
February, June, September, November
KNITWEAR ONSTAGE La sezione di Maglieria Italiana dedicata alle sfilate degli stilisti affermati ed emergenti. Dalle più importanti passerelle del mondo, le collezioni donna e uomo per la stagione successiva. Due edizioni sfilate DONNA: giugno e novembre Due edizioni sfilate UOMO: febbraio e settembre The section of Maglieria Italiana dedicated to fashion shows of important and nascent designers. The collection of both women and men of next season from the most important fashion shows of the world. 2 issues dedicated to women fashion shows: June/November 2 issues dedicated to men fashion shows: February/September
www.maglieriaitaliana.com
MODA, tendenze, sfilate, interviste, dossier economici, reportage, saloni, distribuzione,
fashion
, trends, fashion SHOWS, consumi, INTERVIEWS, economical reports, reportage, exhibitions, retail, MARKET REPORTS ABBONAMENTI_07.indd 3
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EBSCO SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES P.O.BOX 1943 AL 35201-1943 BIRMINGHAM TEL. +1 (205) 9911234 FAX +1 (205) 9803770 szielinski@ebsco.com SPEEDIMPEX USA, INC. 35-02 48TH AVENUE, LONG ISLAND CITY, N.Y. 11101 TEL. +1 (0) 718 3927477 FAX +1 (0) 718 3610815 infony@speedimpex.com AROUND THE WORLD, INC. AMI-JAY INC. 28 WEST 40TH ST. NEW YORK CITY 10018 NEW YORK TEL. +1 212 575 8543 FAX +1 212 575 8552 amijayinc@hotmail.com
SUPER TEAM INT. CO., LTD. NO.13 ALLEY 58, LANE 278, YONG JI. ROAD - TAIPEI TEL. +886 (0) 2 27685950/51 FAX +886 (0) 2 27654993 superten@ms15.hinet.net
THAILAND
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PORTUGAL
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FERNANDO MACHADO & CIA LDA.
TURKEY
SWETS INFORMATION SERVICES BV
For other countries not mentioned here contact:
A.I.E.
Agenzia Italiana di Esportazione SpA tel. +39 02 5753911 fax +39 02 57512606 info@aie-mag.com
27/06/11 11.26
July 2011 • N° 7 Fashion, supplies and business information edited exclusively for manufacturers and private label distributors of lingerie, swimwear, legwear and all other items of functional bodywear BodyWares International is published by Editoriale Moda S.r.l. via Giardini, 476/N - 41124 MODENA (ITALY) tel. +39 059342001 - fax +39 059351290 www.editorialemoda.com info@editorialemoda.com Editorial Director/Managing Director Ettore Zanfi Editorial Assistant Lucia Nava lnava@editorialemoda.com Editorial Staff Monica Lugli - Mariacristina Righi Akira Watanabe - Michiyo Tanabe Technical Department Fabrizio Venturi grafico@editorialemoda.com Graphic Project Officine Milk Plus+ Web Graphic webmaster@editorialemoda.com Translations Gerard D. Simms - Pascale Bavoux Diana Faulhammer - Elena Benito Bodimer Photography Giorgio Merighi Circulation and Subscription Dept. Melissa Bosi abbonamenti@editorialemoda.com Administration amministrazione@editorialemoda.com Contributors Ugo Camera (photo) - Cinzia Gatti (trends) Cecilia Righi (photo/trends) BodyWares International Reg. Tribunale Modena N. 1881 of 28/07/2008 ISSN: 1974-3726 Printed in Italy NUOVA GRAFICA - Carpi The contents of BodyWares International are protected by copyright in all countries that are signatories to the Berne Convention. Nothing may be reproduced without the prior consent of the publishers
Sales Italy: GISELLA CICOGNANI, Largo Rapallo 1, I-20162 Milano Tel: +39 02 6610 4157 cicognani@fastwebnet.it Sales Central Europe SABINE DUSSEY 7 Düppelstr, D-42781 Haan Tel. +49 2129 348390 Fax. +49 2129 3483910 sabine.dussey@dussey.de Sales Eastern Europe and other countries of the world lnava@editorialemoda.com Sales Spain FERNANDO CID, Blint International Clot 185 entlos 2-3 - 08027 Barcelona Tel. +34 93 408 12 01 Fax +34 93 408 41 73 fernandocid@blint.es
// ADDRESS // AQUAFIL Spa Tel.+39 0464581111 info@aquafil.com - www.dryarn.com Arula GmbH Tel. +43 5523 / 90400-0 office@arula-textile.com - www.arula-textile.com BORGINI JERSEY spa Tel. +39 031883311 jersey@borgini.it - mybe.it C.L.A.S.S. - Creativity, Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy www.c-l-a-s-s.org CADT Tel. +34 935891567 info@cadt.com - www.cadt.com CARVICO spa Tel. +39 035780111 info@carvico.com - www.carvico.com CECILIA RIGHI Tel. +39 3292127653 studioanjce@2ainfo.it CHanty gmbh & co.kg Tel. +49 6074-8684-0 info@chantylace.com - www.chantylace.eu CHEYNET ELASTICS Tel. +33 477356043 cheynet.fr CODENTEL tel. +33 321366440 codentel@codentel.com - www.codentel.com DENTELLES-CLéMENT Tel. +66-34 232940 lacesales@mastexcom.com - mastexcom.com dogi tel. +34 93 462 80 00 info@dogi.com - www.dogi.com Dresdner spiTzen Tel. +49 3512048244 www.dresdnerspitzen.com Elastic textile europe Gmbh Tel. +49 6694806 - 0 info@elastic.de - www.elastic.de EURojersey spa Tel. +39 02966541 info@eurojersey.com - eurojersey.com FAISS-TEXTIL GmbH Tel. +49 7433/9946-0 info@faiss.de - www.faiss.de FULGAR spa Tel. +39 0376779900 info@fulgar.com - www.fulgar.com Filature Miroglio Tel. +39 0173 298111 filature@miroglio.com - www.filaturemiroglio.com Géneros de Punto Fabrés sa Tel. +34 937903200 fabres@gpfabres.com - www.gpfabres.com GRUPO MODA ESTILMAR sa ITALMARE Tel. +34 937419010 estilmar@estilmar.com - www.estilmar.com Händel+Diller GmbH Tel. +49 7433/9901-22 info@haendel-diller.de - www.haendel-diller.de ILUNA GROUP Tel. 035/419751 info@iluna.com - www.iluna.com INNOTEX Merkel+Rau GmbH Tel. +49 3720650090 info@innotex.de - www.innotex.de INVISTA www.lycra.com JERSEY LOMELLINA spa Tel. +39 0354389111 info@jerseylomellina.com - jerseylomellina.com JUNIOR spa Tel. +39 0331 310065/310233 infojunior@ricamificiojunior.it - ricamificiojunior.it JUNIOR HAGEN ltd tel. +44 2089650707 sales@junior-hagen.com - junior-hagen.com
KARL MAYER GmbH Tel. +49 61044020 info@karlmayer.de - www.karlmayer.de Liebaert sa Tel. +32 93861145 www.liebaert.be LIOR sa Tel. +41 916468931 LOGOSTIL srl Tel. + 39 059.6550273 commerciale@logostil.it - www.logostil.it MACPI spa Tel.+39 030 7403681 info@macpi.com - www.macpi.com MADEIRA Garne Tel. +49 76151048-0 threads.madeira.de MAGLIFICIO RIPA srl Tel. +39 0373980090 info@maglificioripa.it - www.maglificioripa.it MALLA Baño Tel.+34 937571277 www.mallabano.com MERYL FIBER sas Tel.+33 0321605100 info@merylfiber.com - www.merylfiber.com/ Michele letizia spa Tel. +39 03217781 www.micheleletizia.com MOKITEX spa Tel. +39 015 98994 info@mokitex.it - www.mokitex.it MORIATA s.a. Tel. +34 938450000 info@indpt.com muehlmeier Bodyshaping GmbH Tel. +49 96359219 -0 info@muehlmeier.eu - www.muehlmeier.eu NASTRIFICIO DE BERNARDI spa Tel. +39 039648651 www.nastrificiodebernardi.com NASTROTEX CUFRA spa Tel. +39 0363 938167 info@nastrotex-cufra.it - nastrotex-cufra.it Nilit Ltd www.nilit.com NOYON - ETS NOYON ET CIE Tel. +33 321467900 noyon@noyondentelle.com - noyon-dentel.com PIAVE MAITEX spa Tel. +39 02965151 info@piavemaitex.com - piavemaitex.com PROFASHION snc by Cinzia Gatti Tel. +39 02 36519108 profashion@cinziagatti.com - cinziagatti.com PUNTIBLOND sa Tel. +34 938450000 info@puntiblond.com - www.puntiblond.com Radici Partecipazioni spa Tel.+39 035715411 www.radicigroup.com RITEX 2002 Tel.+34 935731518 ritex@ritex2002.com ROCLE BY ISABELLA - RBS sarl Tel.+33 0474058900 TAILOR INDUSTRY srl Tel. +39 02 9268751 info@tailorindustry - www.tailorindustry.com TESSITURA TAIANA VIRGILIO spa Tel. +39 0319944111 taiana@taiana.it - www.taiana.it T.F.T. Tintoria Finissaggio Tulli srl Tel. +39 022131930 info@tulle.it - www.tulle.it WEber lace Gmbh h.lins@weber-lace.at - www.weber-lace.at WEGAL & TRICOTEL spa Tel. +39 029622981 info@wegal.it - www.wegal.it
Questa rivista Le è stata inviata tramite abbonamento: l’indirizzo in nostro possesso verrà utilizzato, oltre che per l’invio della rivista, anche per l’inoltro di altre riviste e di proposte di abbonamento. Ai sensi della legge 196/03 è Suo diritto richiedere la cessazione dell’invio e l’aggiornamento dei dati in nostro posseso.
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Tecnologia per l’intim
NASTRI ELASTICI INTIMO DONNA INTIMO UOMO NASTRI ELASTICI INTIMO DONNA INTIMO UOMO NASTRI ELASTICI INTIMO DONNA INTIMO UOMO
24050 COVO (BG) Italy - Strada Statale Soncinese, 2 - Tel. +39/0363.938167 - Fax +39/0363.93798 - www.nastrotex-cufra.it - e-mail: info@nastrotex-cufra.it
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Q-Skin®:
The smart fiber La rivoluzionaria Microfibra Batteriostatica agli ioni d’argento. Q-Skin® è l’innovativa soluzione alla proliferazione dei batteri, un traguardo tecnologico che risponde a esigenze diffuse in tutti i settori applicativi del mondo tessile e dell’abbigliamento.
Q-skin® é un marchio registrato by FULGAR S.p.A. IT/016/022
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www.fulgar.com
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