COR - The Local Magazine (EN Edition 1/2019) by Ferienregion Eisacktal

T H E

L O C A L

ONE

M A G A Z I N E

SUMMITS

ARTS & CRAFTS

ORIGINS

The many facets of hiking

Confessions of a wood carver

On the trails of the ice mummy

A culinary pleasure trip! An issue dedicated to treats and summits

B R E S S A N O N E

C H I U S A

R I O

P U S T E R I A

N A Z - S C I A V E S

L U S O N

Gitschberg Jochtal – Brixen 100 kilometres of slopes & 25 lift systems – 1 ski pass GITSCHBERG JOCHTAL - BRIXEN

» Gitschberg | 25 LIFTS 100 KM SLOPES

Jochtal: 55 km and 15 lift systems » Brixen Plose: 40 km and 7 lift systems » & Feldthurns/Velturno, Villnöss/Val di Funes and Lüsen/Luson Gitschberg / Maranza - Meransen MÜHLBACH - MERANSEN 201 202 POBIST 203 BRUNNER SKI EXPRESS 204 206 MITTERWIESE NESSELBAHN 207 208 GITSCHBERG 211 BERGBAHN

Plose Bressanone - Brixen PLOSE 101 102 SCHÖNBODEN 103 RIFUGIO CAI PALMSCHOSS 104 105 ROSSALM PFANNSPITZE 107 114 RANDÖTSCH

JOCHTAL 2100 m

WILDE KREUZSPITZE PICCO DI CROCE 3132 m

PLATTSPITZE

MÖSELER MESULE

ALTFASSTAL

207 307

307

701

204

206

301

2059 m

Parchi bambini bambini// Kinderparks /Kidsareas areas Kinderparks/Kids Snowpark

Family Fun

hot spot WIFI gratuito kostenloser WIFI-Hotspot free WIFI hotspot

RODENECKER ALM

2110 m

GROSSBERG

304 305

OFFICE

THURNERKAMP

2210 m

KLEINGITSCH

SP Snowpark Skipass

TELEGRAPH M. TELEGRAFO 2505 m

LÜSEN LUSON 1050 m

PLOSE 2465 m

103

2043 m

105

OCHSENALM 2085 m

308 WANDERWEGE SENTIERI

WANDERWEGE KIENER ALM 1750 m

VALS VALLES 1354 m 306

211

KREUZTAL VAL CROCE

104

MERANSEN MARANZA 1414 m

SP OFFICE

EISACKTAL VAL D’ISARCO

202

MITTEWALD MEZZASELVA

SKIHÜTTE RIFUGIO SCI 1890 m

2010 m

1394 m

203

107

2050 m

SERGS

VALSERTAL VALLE DI VALLES

ROSSALM 2200 m

SENTIERI

102

1620 m

OFFICE

PEITLERKOFEL SASSO DI PUTIA

GABLER M. FORCA 2570 m

PFANNSPITZE M. FANA 2507 m

GITSCHBERG 2512 m

303

BRENNER BRENNERO

HOCHFEILER GRAN PILASTRO

208

OLPERER

GAISJOCH

Jochtal / Valles - Vals 301 JOCHTAL 303 RESTAURANT 304 HINTERBERG STEINERMANDL 305 306 TASA SCHILLING 307 308 GAISJOCH 401 MADERS - VELTURNO/ FELDTHURNS 501 FILLER - FUNES/VILLNÖSS SKILIFT RUNGG - LÜSEN/LUSON 701

SP OFFICE

PALMSCHOSS PLANCIOS 1760 m

ST. MAGDALENA S. MADDALENA

OFFICE

201

VILLNÖSS FUNES 1280 m

ST. GEORG IN AFERS S. GIORGIO EORES

ST. LEONHARD S. LEONARDO

501

BRUNECK BRUNICO SPINGES SPINGA

MÜHLBACH RIO DI PUSTERIA 777 m

NAUDERS

RIE

RIENZ

FRANZENSFESTE FORTEZZA

VIUMS FIUMES

AICHA AICA

RODENECK RODENGO

SCHABS SCIAVES

RAAS RASA

GIFEN

OFFICE

ST. PETER S. PIETRO

ST. JAKOB IN AFERS S. GIACOMO EORES

1067 m

ST. ANDRÄ S. ANDREA

KARNOL

MELLAUN MELLUNO

NATZ NAZ AFERER TAL VAL DI EORES

KLERANT

ELVAS

VILLNÖSSTAL VAL DI FUNES

SA CK ISARCO

MILLAND MILLAN

NEUSTIFT NOVACELLA

TEIS TISO

SARNS SARNES

AUSFAHRT BRIXEN/PUSTERTAL USCITA BRESSANONE/VAL PUSTERIA

PINZAGEN PINZAGO

www.cormar.info

TILS TILES

TSCHÖTSCH SCEZZE

GUFIDAUN GUDON

ALBEINS ALBES

AUSFAHRT KLAUSEN USCITA CHIUSA

A22

VAHRN VARNA

NAFEN

EISA ISAR CK CO

BRIXEN BRESSANONE 567 m

SCHALDERS SCALERES

101

114

SCHNAUDERS

FELDTHURNS VELTURNO 851 m

KLAUSEN CHIUSA

1080 m

401

www.gitschbergjochtal-brixen.com

GARN

LATZFONS LAZFONS

Cordially, The Editorial Team

A1185322

Contributors 1 “My favourite story in this issue?” It didn’t take our Art Director Philipp Putzer very long to come up with an answer. “Ötzi, that’s for sure—I’ve been interested in the Iceman for the last 15 years, and Ötzi researchers still publish new results all the time, so it never gets old.”

Cor. Il cuore. Das Herz. The heart. Because this is where our heart is. Because our mountains are all that the heart can desire. Because Bressanone/Brixen, Chiusa/Klausen, and their surroundings are what we set our heart on. Just like this magazine: Cor. The Local Magazine. Because we love writing about the people who live here and the places that are home to their hearts. Because we love their heartfelt hospitality. Because we put our heart and soul into telling their stories.

2 Photo shoot? Kiwi, the dog of the mountain hut, was happy to join in. His reward: half an hour of Fetch the Stick with our team. 3 Author Lisa Maria Kager was highly impressed with the inner balance of Adelheid Gasser, who is featured on our cover. The farmer’s secret will now become part of Lisa’s daily routine: an afternoon nap!

BOZEN BOLZANO

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

valles/vals

Gitschberg

fundres/ pfunders

Jochtal maranza/ meransen

17 Vandoies/Vintl rio di pusteria/ mühlbach

fortezza/ franzensfeste

Spelonca/ Spiluck

Naz -Sciaves/ Natz -Schabs

32 Rodengo/Rodeneck luson/ lüsen

66 54

Scaleres/Schalders

Varna/ Vahrn

Lüsner Alm Alpine Pasture novacella/ neustift

bres san one/ brix en 58

Velturno/ Feldthurns

Plose

80 31 Peitler

40 52 Verdignes/ Verdings

Chiusa/Klausen Villandro/ Villanders laion/lajen

barbiano/barbian

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

Villnöss Valley

Geisler

ONE 2019 COR

Spectacular Beauty Four stunning impressions

New and Approved News from the region

Q&A …with Thilo Neumann, owner of the narrowest house in South Tyrol

The People up There Family life at an Alpine hut and pasture

Summit vs Leisure An ode to mountaineering— and one to leisure hiking

Multifarious Mountains Seven tours to pick from

Was the Iceman from Eisacktal Valley? An interview discussing “Ötzi”

Beautiful Things Products from the region

A Day with ... Wood carver Felix Fischnaller

South Tyrol for Beginners Part 1: declaring your linguistic affiliation

A Short Dictionary of South Tyrolean Dialect Understand what the locals say

AUTHORS Valeria Dejaco, Cassandra Han, Lisa Maria Kager, Lenz Koppelstätter, Debora Longariva, Lisa Lutzenberger, Matthias Mayr

PHOTOS IDM Südtirol, Florian Andergassen, Capriz, Dietmar Denger, Alex Filz, Wolfgang Gafriller, Matthias Gasser, Christof Gruber, Armin Huber, Hans Kammerer, Manuel Kottersteger, Helmut Moling, hamphotographie, Hannes Niederkofler, Judith Niederwanger, oooyeah.de, Michael Pedevilla, Franz Pernthaler, Klaus Peterlin, Alexander Pichler, Plose Quelle AG, Caroline Renzler, Helmuth Rier, Arnold Ritter, Rotwild, Santifaller Photography, Stefan Schütz, Stadtmuseum Klausen, Andreas Tauber, private, Shutterstock (bergamont, baranq, arka38)

The March of the Ladins Impressions of an old pilgrim tradition

Favourite Places in… Bressanone/Brixen Tips from the locals

ILLUSTRATIONS Stefanie Hilgarth, Shutterstock (nata_danilenko)

The Perfect Snapshot Three Instagram tips

ONE

Imprint PUBLISHER: Bressanone/Brixen Tourism Association Rio Pusteria/Gitschberg Jochtal Tourist Office Chiusa, Barbiano, Velturno, Villandro/Klausen, Barbian, Feldthurns, Villanders Tourist Office Naz-Sciaves/Natz-Schabs Tourist Office Luson/Lüsen Tourist Office IDM Südtirol – Alto Adige

H2O! Facts and figures about water

Hot Stuff Visiting the queen of funnel cakes

CONTACT info@cormagazine.com EDITORIAL TEAM Ex Libris www.exlibris.bz.it PUBLISHING MANAGEMENT Valeria Dejaco

W is for Wine Oenologist Fenja Hinz shares valuable tips Of Inns and Stars Where flavour is king

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lenz Koppelstätter ART DIRECTOR Philipp Putzer www.farbfabrik.it

The Lost Treasure A piece of history

TRANSLATIONS AND PROOFREADING Ex Libris (The Word Artists/C. Dickow, C. Röber; Charlotte Marston) PRINTER Tezzele by Esperia, Lavis

Kindly supported by

50 T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Spectacular Beauty White slopes and golden sunrises: this is a place to indulge your sensesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;no matter what the season. Four stunning impressions.

SchĂźttelbrot bread is as much a staple of this region as the mountains and the cows. This hard and crispy bread is rye flour-based and served with wine and speck.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Measuring 20 square kilometres, the Rodenecker-LĂźsner Alm Alpine pasture is one of the largest mountain pastures in Europe. Its soft slopes are perfect for walking in summer and snowshoeing in winter.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Bressanone/Brixen City Gallery hosts several contemporary art exhibitions each year: paintings, installations, sculptures, and photography.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

With guaranteed snow, plenty of sun and spectacular panoramic views, the Rio Pusteria/Gitschberg Jochtal and Plose skiing areas are among the most popular of the southern Alpine divide.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

NEW AND APPROVED News from the region

Secrets of… a Cartographer

Hans Kammerer from Bressanone/ Brixen has drawn topographic and thematic maps as well as panoramic maps for more than thirty years. The 86-year-old is a self-taught mapmaker and a true pioneer of his trade.

“I’VE BEEN interested in cartography since I was ten years old, and I’ve been gradually teaching myself ever since. The first maps I ever held in my hand were from the post-war era—with a 1:100,000 scale. And while they were good, I wanted more detail. I drew my first 1:25,000-scale topographic map by hand in 1960, using pen and ink and tempera. Nowadays we have software for that, of course. I’ve worked with computers for 30 years, and I’ve witnessed the entire technical evolution first-hand. I did not make a living from cartography until the 1990s. Until then, I had my tobacco shop and newsagent’s

B is for… Birmehl “BIR” is South Tyrolean for “pear”. In Verdignes/Verdings, the pear trees grow right in the middle of the village. Birmehl—pear flour—used to be an affordable alternative to sugar for the farmers of Verdignes. Producing this sweetening agent was a complicated, tedious process: the pears were dried and then ground into pear flour. While “Birmehldorf” (“pear flour

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

village”) used to be a somewhat derisive moniker for Verdignes, the locals today are proud to revive that tradition. They have even dedicated a themed trail and a festival to it: during the pear flour autumn festival, Birmehlherbst, their inns and Buschenschank taverns give the typical South Tyrolean dishes a touch of sweetness using pear flour.

in the old town of Bressanone. I made new contacts, learned a lot about maps, and I worked in trail management for the Alpine Club for 40 years. When my first major commission arrived, I checked each position in person and walked a lot of trails myself. I roamed the mountains of South Tyrol and beyond for decades, all in the name of cartography. These days I draw panoramic maps in Photoshop, with the help of Google Maps images. By now everything has been surveyed by GPS.”

ONE 2019 COR

500 Summits

… 498, 499, 500. In clear weather, a whopping five hundred peaks can be seen from the 360-degree viewing platform at the summit of the 2,512-metre-high Gitschberg mountain. They include a number of three-thousanders, the Dolomites, the Brenta Group, and the Zillertal, Stubai, and Ötztal Alps. This unique panoramic experience is just a few steps away from the upper terminus of the quad chairlift in the Rio Pusteria/Gitschberg Jochtal skiing area.

Did You Know ... ... that Chestnuts Are an Aphrodisiac? ven back in the Middle Ages, chestnuts—seasoned with salt and pepper—were used as an aphrodisiac. They were supposed to boost the libido and improve potency. And in the early 20th century, researchers investigated the beguiling smell of chestnut blossoms. The pheromones contained in the scent of the blossoms make it an odor aphrodisiacus, said to influence the sex drive. However, back then, only the upper classes used chestnuts for pleasure gain, and they did so in secret.

The Lord of the Slopes FRANZ STABLUM is a farmer at the Niederthalerhof in Meluno/Mellaun. But for almost 40 years, the Plose mountain has been his second home. He has worked in the skiing region since December 1980, starting out as a lift technician at the old gondola lift. Today he is in charge of all the slopes. A lot has changed over the decades. The Trametsch slope, the showpiece of the Plose, is the longest downhill run in South Tyrol: nine kilometres long, with a difference in altitude of 1,400 metres. “We used to prepare the Trametsch only once a week”, Franz Stablum tells us. “That would be completely unthinkable today.” Together with his team, he makes sure every day that skiers find 40 kilo-

metres of beautiful slopes when they arrive. While skiers prefer the Plose in sunny weather, he also sets out to work in the cold and the mist. But he still loves the mountains and the view as much as he did on his first day. Franz Stablum’s insider tip: “The evening mood at the Schönjöchl peak in summer. The sunset is gorgeous.”

COR

ONE 2019

Jerry Line Length: 4.2 km Difference in altitude: 300 m Average grade: 7%

Hammer Line Length: 1.9 km Difference in altitude: 165 m Average grade: 8.5%

Palm Pro Line Length: 2.5 km Difference in altitude: 265 m Average grade: 11%

Sky Line Length: 6.6 km Difference in altitude: 900 m Average grade: 13%

Biking

in Bressanone

THE BRESSANONE/BRIXEN BIKEPARK on the Plose mountain was inaugurated officially in 2018. Mountain bikers can choose from four lines of varying degrees of difficulty, with rapid downhill runs and far jumps. All lines can be reached from S. Andrea/St. Andrä via the Plose cable car: they start at the upper terminus. In addition, the Palmschoß chairlift is in operation to take bikers back uphill.

Riding the Express A NUMBER OF new developments can be seen in the Rio Pusteria/Gitschberg Jochtal skiing area: the modern, high-comfort ten-seater gondola lift “Ski Express” with a capacity of 3,000 passengers per hour has replaced the older “Breiteben” and “Segerwiese” lifts. Thanks to a midway station, the popular and easy Breiteben slope remains accessible to beginners. Other new additions include the newly prepared two-kilometre-long “Wastl Huber” slope and the “Gimmy Fun Ride” in Valles-Jochtal: a 1.5-kilometre-long family-friendly winter sports adventure featuring easy jumps, obstacles, and banked turns.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Advantage Cards Fee-based cards: + The Mobilcard provides unlimited use of all public transport in South Tyrol.

The New Säben Promenade rchaic, imposing, beautiful Säben Abbey towers high over A Chiusa/Klausen. The Säben Promenade leading from the medieval artists’ town up to the abbey has undergone a makeover. The path up to the “Acropolis of Tyrol” is lined with new, specially designed benches called “Säbener Bankln” and a resting spot in the heart of the historic wine-growing area. From the abbey itself, the view of the mountains and valleys is marvellous. Information boards telling strollers all about the importance of the abbey as an episcopal see are scattered along the path.

That’s So Cheesy THE REGION OF wine, speck, and dumplings? Yes, but also the region of cheese. The fine cheese factory Capriz is a show dairy, theme park, and bistro all rolled into one. This is where goat and cow milk is processed into soft cheese with exterior mould, double mould, or red smear, “Caprizella” mozzarella, cream cheese, and hard cheese. Visitors to the theme park can learn all about the process that

turns milk into cheese. That cheese can then be tasted in the bistro, paired with an excellent wine and other selected delicacies. www.capriz.bz

+ The museumobil Card is available for a three- or seven-day period and includes unlimited use of public transport in South Tyrol as well as one admission each to the museums of South Tyrol. + The bikemobil Card entitles the card holder to unlimited use of buses, trains, and rental bikes in the entire region.

Free cards (included in the room rate at participating hotels and accommodation): + The BrixenCard offers free access to public transport, museums, and castles in South Tyrol, one admission to the Acquarena adventure pool in Bressanone/ Brixen, one journey on the Plose cable car, and an extensive cultural and hiking programme. + The Almencard is valid in the Rio Pusteria/Gitschberg Jochtal area as well as in Naz-Sciaves/ Natz-Schabs and offers free cable car journeys, a hiking programme, child and family activity programmes, as well as price reductions for museums, huts, and restaurants (not in winter). The Almencard Plus has additional perks: free public transport in South Tyrol, one admission each to the South Tyrol museums, and a hiking programme in NazSciaves. + The Klausen Card – alps & wine combines the museumobil Card with offers for Chiusa/ Klausen: free admission to three public pools, cable car journeys, summer and winter hiking shuttle buses, guided tours, wine and grappa tastings, and many more.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Q&A … with Thilo Neumann, owner of the narrowest house in South Tyrol

Mr Neumann, what kind of house is this? It’s a house in the historic city centre in the upper town of Chiusa/Klausen. It dates back to the 13th century. Today it is a holiday home, and it has fully preserved the charm of days gone by, when Chiusa was an artists’ colony. It is only three metres wide; the 100 m of living space are spread across five storeys.

The narrowest house in South Tyrol can be found in Chiusa/Klausen. It was first entered in the land registry in 1418.

First floor 1: Balcony

And what is living in it like? Excellent! Much better than in all those boring perpendicular, modern flats.

2: Kitchen – 8.97 m2 3: Hallway – 9.04 m2 4: Living room – 12.58 m2

Length: 14.22 m

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

Thilo Neumann inherited the building from his father. He and his partner, Petra Tischendorf, love the house; they find new houses boring.

What’s the story behind the building? The house was built in a time when a lot of ore was mined in nearby Tinnetal Valley. The miners’ homes were built in the first broader spot: in Chiusa. The first entry in the land registry is from 1418. My father bought the house in 1972.

ONE 2019 COR

PR INFO

Excellent Wines from Eisacktal Valley Eisacktal Valley is Italy’s northernmost wine-growing area. Its geographic location makes these wines truly special. A cool climate, major differences in temperature between day and night, high altitude, the late grape harvest, and light soil turn the grapes into fresh and fruity varieties with hints of minerality and a distinctive taste. The wine-growing region of Eisacktal Valley stretches from the Varna/Vahrn municipality north of Bressanone/Brixen to the Renon/Ritten plateau in the south. The amount of precipitation is very low for an Alpine region, and there are many hours of sunshine, which makes it possible to grow grapes at altitudes as high as 400 to 850 metres above sea level. The conditions are perfect for white varietals in particular, and a total of 86 percent of the grapes harvested in the valley are white. Historically, however, the region has a long tradition of red wines, with red grapes being the most commonly grown variety until way into the 20th century. Only during the last couple of decades did local farmers and winemakers find that the climate of the valley was far more suitable for white varieties. Today, seven white varietals are marked with the designation of origin “Südtiroler Eisacktaler” (German for: Eisacktal Valley, South Tyrol): Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Gewürztraminer, Veltliner, Ruländer, Kerner, and Riesling. Klausner Leitacher, a cuvée, is the only red varietal to bear the Eisacktal Valley designation of origin.

In the 1960s, demand for local wines increased significantly. The winegrowers started forming cooperatives and expanded their growing areas, building highly complex terraced vineyards along the valley slopes, which have become a characteristic part of the landscape. Two large wineries and 18 small-scale winemakers process local grapes and wines in the modern day and age, among them Cantina Valle Isarco/Eisacktaler Kellerei, a cooperative with 130 members, the long-standing, 876-year-old Cantina dell’Abbazia/Stiftskellerei Neustift, and the young and innovative “Freie Weinbauern” (German for “Free Winemakers”).

and external activities of this wine region. A highly successful mission: The wines produced in the valley have gained an excellent reputation, and the ever-growing number of self-reliant and self-marketing winemakers contributes significantly to the diversity and popularity of wine-making in Eisacktal Valley. It is not for nothing that Eisacktal Valley is now considered one of the best growing regions for white varietals in Italy: its wines have received many awards from renowned wine publications like Italian wine bibles including Bibenda, Gambero Rosso, and L’Espresso and international wine guides such as Robert Parker, Wine Enthusiast, or Wine Spectator.

AWARDS AND REPUTATION Local winemakers, restaurateurs, and tourist associations founded the eisacktalWein organisation in 2015 to boost internal

LONG TRADITION MEETS INNOVATIVE WINEMAKERS Early evidence suggests that Eisacktal Valley has been a wine-growing region since the 5th century B.C. During the early Middle Ages, local monasteries played an important role in wine-making. The winery of the Neustift Monastery situated north of Bressanone is a prime example of this. The monastery has been producing wine since 1142, and still keeps up the tradition.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

The People

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

up There

Bernhard Mulser is a herder at the Zirmait Alpine pasture, high above Bressanone/ Brixen. With his wife and two children, he cares for the cattle and pigs, the four of them living in isolation on the mountain for months. Read on to find out how life in an Alpine hut affects a family. T e x t â&#x20AC;&#x201D; M A T T H I A S M A Y R P h o t o s â&#x20AC;&#x201D; M I C H A E L P E Z Z E I

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

o, the “Zirmait-Alm” is not an overcrowded Alpine hut with tawdry tablecloths and service staff in lederhosen and dirndl dresses. This Alpine hut is for real. Here, far from the hustle and bustle of the valley, life is still quaint and authentic. Calves are grazing on the steep slopes of the pasture; pigs are wallowing in the mud. Hungry hikers are treated to a home-cooked meal prepared on a wood-burning stove. In this place, Bernhard Mulser has just spent his first summer as a herder, together with his family. “From early June to late September, we’re up on Zirmait every day—and we’re up and about all day, from sunrise to sunset”, he says. Can this really work, or are arguments the daily fare of family life? Does the constant proximity of everyone result in cabin fever? How is life up there affecting everyone? How does your own perception change? Your way of thinking? Of feeling? The Mulser family is from Fiè allo Sciliar/Völs am Schlern, 35 kilometres to the south of Bressanone. The father, Bernhard, is a self-employed joiner; the mother, Bernadette, is a sales clerk. Their son Klaus, seventeen, is looking for an apprenticeship as a gardener; Lisa, their twenty-one-year-old daughter, went to art school in Val Gardena/Gröden and is now looking to study psychology and art. We’re visiting them during their last summer days up on Zirmait. The four of them are satisfied when looking back on the past few weeks—although summer can be taxing; the days at the Alpine hut and pasture are long and exhausting. The Mulser family was looking to do something different. Other families would simply go away on a weekend trip; they

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

took a radical step, leaving their everyday lives and jobs behind, and trying something entirely new. Bernhard Mulser and his son Klaus are in charge of the cattle. Fifteen calves between 18 months and two years old are spending the summer on the mountain pasture. The Tyrolean Grey cattle, a typical breed in the region, are full of curiosity. They yield both good milk and good meat, and their favourable feed conversion ratio and sure-footedness make them ideally suited for pastoral farming. Apart from the cattle, the Mulser family also keeps three Tyrolean Alpine pigs, an old breed. The pigs mature slowly, but their meat is of high quality and low in cholesterol. They are free to feed on hay, apples, and other delicacies. The population of the Zirmait pasture further includes a donkey, a horse, and a pony—and the family has brought their pets, Parson Russell terrier Kiwi and the cats Furbi and Kitti, to spend the summer. The cats hide out of sight, the dog wants to play. “I learned to handle animals as a child on my parents’ farm and later as a herder”, says the father. He has acquired knowledge which he deepens on a daily basis. “You’ve got to be a jack-of-all-trades at an Alpine hut”, he continues. “A herder, a craftsman, a meteorologist, a veterinarian, and a tour guide.” His daughter Lisa has already worked two summers as a waitress at a mountain hut, but working at a small Alpine hut and pasture is even more extraordinary than that. She is not only a waitress, but also a cook, a herder, a craftswoman, and a farmer. Taxing and

This Alpine hut is for real. Here, far from the hustle and bustle of the valley, life is still quaint and authentic.

→

The ZirmaitAlm The Zirmait Alpine hut is located just below the Karspitze peak in easy reach from Varna/Vahrn, Spelonca/Spiluck, or Scaleres/ Schalders. It takes about an hour and a half to hike from the hut to the summit, and the ascent is not particularly difficult. The panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and valleys from the top is stunning.

ONE 2019 COR

Parson Russell terrier Kiwi and the two cats Furbi and Kitti are spending the summer at the Alpine hut and pasture together with their family.

Apart from grey cattle, a donkey, a horse, and a pony, the Mulser family also keeps Tyrolean Alpine pigsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an old breed.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

“We’re all really spoiled down in the valley”, says Bernhard. “Up here, you accept everything as it is, and try to make the best of it.”

pleasant: that is the Mulser family’s summer in a nutshell. Long and hard days, but also a break from everyday routine, and a new experience. “This is not austerity, this is real life”, says Bernhard. “I have everything I need up here”, adds his son, Klaus. The Zirmait pasture is situated at 1,891 metres above sea level. It can be reached in approximately two and a half hours on foot from the village of Varna/ Vahrn north of Bressanone, or in 45 minutes from the car park at the end of the road. It offers a sweeping, open view of the Plose and Plan de Corones/Kronplatz mountains, the craggy peaks of the Gruppo delle Odle/Geisler, even the Zillertal Alps. The hut is off the beaten track, catering to locals rather than tourists. Hikers who stop here are usually on their way to the 2,517-metre-high Karspitze peak, another one and a half hours’ hike. Mother Bernadette and daughter Lisa are tasked with cooking. The wood-burning stove in the small kitchen is stacked with pots and pans and is radiating a pleasant heat. Goulash and vegetable soup are simmering happily, and the room is filled with the garlicky smell of the tomato sauce for the Zirmait pasta. Bernadette has a huge bowl of dumpling dough in front of her, deftly rolling the “national dish” of South Tyrol. She is also a pas-

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

sionate cake baker and always has several types in stock. Bernhard complements the culinary experience with his home-made spirits. Time passes at its own pace up here. The sun determines when the work starts and when it ends, and there is more than enough work to go around. But still the family does not seem stressed. “You just have to take your time”, says Bernhard. The four Mulsers are enjoying the luxury of leading a self-determined life at one with nature. But still: life at the Alpine hut is an adventure. A photovoltaic system supplies the hut with power, with eight truck batteries for buffer. That system will provide a maximum output of 3.5 megawatts—if the sun shines. Bad weather means saving electricity, so that the fridge and freezer can do their jobs. A spring provides fresh water, but that must be used sparingly, too: the great drought last summer left the Alpine hut with a minimal water supply for weeks. It makes everything a bit more difficult, but it’s not the end of the world, says Bernhard. “Down in the valley, we’re all really spoiled. Up here, you accept everything as it is, and try to make the best of it.” There are a small sun terrace and a swing set for children in front of the Alpine hut, and a little herb garden. They are trying to grow as much as they can

Time passes at its own pace up here. The working routine is determined by the sun. And there is more than enough work to go around.

→

Bernadette is a passionate cake baker. Together with her daughter Lisa she keeps everyone fed.

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Family life has benefited from the summer up in the mountains. “This experience has brought us all closer together”, says Bernhard Mulser.

Mobile phone reception is patchy at best up here. All you hear are cowbells and the occasional crow.

Many tasks up in the mountains require a group effort—even making lingonberry preserves.

themselves: back to the roots, literally. The house itself is small: apart from the kitchen, there’s the dining room open to the public, a room for the parents, and a small toilet—nowadays, the outhouse by the stables is only there for show. “Any guests who stop by spontaneously and stay the night are put up in a dormitory in the attic”, says Klaus. He and his sister do not sleep in the hut, however—they sleep in the stables. As the calves do not need the stables in summer, they are serving as storage space, and two rooms have been set up for the children. It’s very quiet at Zirmait. The family is even forced to go without mobile phones most of the time; reception is patchy and poor at best up here. All you hear are cowbells and the occasional crow. Of course, the family is not completely cut off from the rest of the world. It’s a half hour’s car ride to Bressanone, be it in the jeep or in the traditional car of South Tyrolean mountain people: the Fiat Panda. But they feel very, very far removed from city life.

So far that they don’t even miss it. The Mulsers regularly argue about who has to drive down into the valley to do the shopping. Family life has benefited from the summer up in the mountains, at any rate. “This experience has brought us all closer together”, says Bernhard Mulser. And that is not necessarily guaranteed when you constantly hang around each other for four months. “You get to know your family better”, says daughter Lisa in agreement. They start their mornings by having breakfast together, talking about the day and scheduling the tasks: where are the calves, what are they going to cook today, is there enough power for the oven, who is fetching the firewood? None of these decisions are earth-shattering, but up here in the hut, they are essential for survival. Down in the valley, everyone goes their own way, but up here, many tasks must be completed together. And in spite of all the challenges, there has never been a major falling-out. “We’re still getting along”, says Klaus happily. Now, in late August, the weather has cooled down noticeably on Zirmait. There will still be many warm and sunny autumn days, but at these altitudes there is even the possibility of snow in September. The family is looking back on a successful summer, but soon it will be time to bid farewell to Alpine life. The Mulsers are already wistful about returning to the valley. “We definitely want to come back next year”, says Bernadette. And thus the thought of the next Alpine summer eases the pain of parting.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Summit Leisure When hiking, reaching the top is what counts. Or would a pleasurable stroll over Alpine pastures do as well? An ode to mountaineering—and one to leisure hiking.

EVERY TIME I SEE A MOUNTAIN, I have to climb it. Even if it’s just one of the lesser summits. This is the way I am. This is what I have to do. This is what I want to do. The thrill of standing at the very top, where the trail goes no further, on top of the world, where you feel like a king—but at the same time as insignificant as the blink of an eye in an infinite universe. It’s a strange, exhilarating feeling, it is almost overwhelming… and makes you want more. Some people say the summit is not important, what matters is being out and about in nature, or taking a nice break in a cosy mountain hut. Don’t believe them! The summit is magical. Even the most delicious dumplings served at the cosiest hut will never taste as great as a cold sandwich up at the summit. Reaching the top also means: discovering the limits of your own abilities, taking yourself one step further (or learning when it’s time to turn around), reaching a challenging goal—or at least giving it a try. If you go for a leisure hike, you may very well have a great day. But if you climb the summit, you own the world. You discover new horizons, both on the inside and on the outside.

WHEN I GO HIKING, I just walk for the sake of walking. I don’t need to aim for a particular goal; hiking isn’t a competition. Sometimes I don’t even know if I want to reach a destination in the first place. And I don’t have to! I want to take my time, taking in the world around me. I want to let my eyes and mind wander. I walk through cool forests, cross lush green pastures, and admire the majestic mountaintops from way below. I feel a deep inner balance, a reverence for the beauty of nature. Do I want to stand up there on the top, pretending to be larger than life below? No! Hiking for the sake of hiking? Yes! This is not about testing my abilities. It’s all about being part of the world around me and feeling as free as I can be. If you believe that running up to the summit is what it takes, you really don’t understand what nature is all about. I want to see where the path takes me. I want to be the one to decide when I turn around. And if I really need a goal to walk towards, I most definitely prefer a mountain hut with a nice plate of goulash over standing next to the summit cross.

D E B O R A L E N Z

L O N G A R I V A

K O P P E L S T Ä T T E R

Traditional weather lore If the Odle wears clouds just like a hat, the weather won’t turn bad. If all but the summit is wrapped in clouds like smoke, you’d better put on your cloak. T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

It does not always have to be the summit: a hearty meal of speck and Kaminwurzen, a typical smoked raw sausage, at an Alpine hut with a view of the Geisler peaks will make you just as happy.

Gruppo delle Odle/Geisler The Gruppo delle Odle is a Dolomites mountain range, a mountain crest between Villnöß Valley and Gröden Valley. The highest peak is Sass Rigais, rising up 3,025 metres above sea level. Ragged rock formations and slender tors offer plenty of easy hiking trails, advanced Alpine climbing routes, and two via ferratas. A large number of mountain huts can be found alongside the trails.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Multifarious Mountains Bressanone/Brixen, Chiusa/Klausen and their surroundings are perfect for hiking: no matter the season, for young and old, sporting or leisurely. COR presents seven very different tours.

The Cultural Course On the trail of Romans, witches, and druids

An easy hike on ancient cultural grounds: that’s the Archaeological Trail (Archeopfad) near Bressanone. Past prehistoric finds, Roman settlements, and mystic cupmarked stones where witches and druids once convened, as the legend goes. We start at the Ponte Aquila bridge in the centre of town, following the Archaeological Trail through the picturesque neighbourhood of Stufles/Stufels, the oldest part of Bressanone with its historic buildings and narrow alleys. We continue to Costa d’Elvas/Kranebitt, leaving the town behind and hiking up a gentle incline towards the village of Elvas, passing orchards, vineyards, and woods on the way. Our route takes us past cup-marked stones, such as the picture stone of Elvas. These mysterious stones are considered ritual sites—but according to more downto-earth sources, it is also possible that they were mere mortars. In any case, there is something magical about them. We take a small break here, imagining the stories these old rocks would tell, if only they could speak.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

A little further along the way, we spot a rebuilt wooden Roman tower. As the child-friendly Archaeological Trail has barely taken a toll on us so far, we have time to climb the small nearby Pinatzbühel hill, which was populated even back in the Bronze Age. It was home to a hillfort, where the inhabitants would come to trade and seek protection in times of war. Near the village of Elvas (population: approx. 300), 9,000-year-old finds dating back to the Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods were discovered, and the Raeti and Romans are rumoured to have settled in the area, too. We continue past the church of Elvas, and on our way back to town we encounter yet more remains of Roman times: ancient wheel ruts left by Roman carts. The most curious artefact of all awaits us at the end of the trail: the “Witches Slide”, a rock bearing mysterious tracks, which may have been part of a prehistoric fertility cult.

Archaeological Trail Duration: 2.5 hours Distance: 6 kilometres Difference in altitude: 300 metres Starting point and terminus: Bressanone, Ponte Aquila bridge

ONE 2019 COR

Peitlerkofel Mountain

Reach for the stars

We descend along the same route, but this time, shortly after clearing the Peitlerscharte ridge again, we’re having a celebratory beer at the Schlüterhütte hut (called Rifugio Genova in Italian), which we passed without stopping on the way up. Anyone who’s not up for rope-secured via ferratas can branch off before we reach the summit and climb the mountain’s smaller peak instead, which will allow them to admire the main summit from a distance. But King Peitler is not an exclusive destination for adventurous mountaineers. Anyone who prefers to view summits from a safe distance can simply hike around this impressive mountain. The circular hike, too, starts from Würzjoch Pass. Following trail no 8A, the route leads towards the summit, then keeps right at the fork in the road and continues towards the Peitlerscharte ridge, the highest point of the circular hike. Rather than continuing towards the summit, the route dips down again, following the trails no 4B and 35 across lush green mountain pastures to the Gömajoch Pass, and approximately thirteen kilometres and five hours later, we’re back where we started. A shorter hiking trail which is well-suited for a family tour is the Zirbelkieferweg (Swiss Pine Trail) in the upper Lüsen Valley. In three hours and with only a small difference in altitude, the circular trail starts at the Kalkofen mountain tavern and leads to the Schatzerhütte Alpine hut and back, always with a view of the mighty Peitlerkofel.

Duration: 5 hours Distance: 11 kilometres Difference in altitude: 800 metres Starting point and terminus: Würzjoch Pass (2,007 metres)

Mountain Climbing

The Archaeological Trail, an easy hike on ancient cultural grounds, provides sweeping views of the Bressanone valley basin.

The trickiest spot is right below the summit: we are but a few via ferrata passages away from the summit cross of the mighty Peitlerkofel mountain, 2,875 metres above sea level. While sure-footedness and a good head for heights are required, the rope-secured via ferrata does not pose a particular challenge for experienced mountaineers. A few more pulls, and the ascent is complete—and you can enjoy a breath-taking view of the Langkofel mountain and the Geisler peaks. Real early birds are treated to a spectacular sunrise here. The impressive Peitlerkofel, “Sasso Putia” in Italian or “Sass de Pütia” in Ladin, is located in the Puez-Odle Natural Park, marking the north-western end of the Dolomites. The hiking area is easy to reach from the village of Luson/Lüsen. Our summit tour starts at an elevation of 2,007 metres at the Würzjoch Pass, which connects the Eisacktal and Gadertal valleys. Following trail no 8A we walk south for a little while and then turn right, passing below the north face of Peitlerkofel. We cross the wild and romantic Kompatsch meadows and a rocky slope, which takes us to trail no 4. We follow the trail up to the Peitlerscharte ridge (2,357 metres), which takes us about one and a half hours. The way to the summit will be yet another ninety minutes.

Geography 101 All locations are marked on the map on page 4.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

More Than One Day On a hiking high

When the blister on your heel bursts open at some point on day three, you wish you had heeded the warning of your super-sporty neighbour, who recommended blister plasters. Instead, the only thing plastered was the smile on your face as you were listening politely and then went on to ignore him—the way you always do whenever this insufferable know-it-all dumps all his worldly wisdoms on you; unsolicited, of course. A four-day hiking tour is no easy feat even for the average sporty person: aching muscles, sore feet, a light sunburn. But still the endeavour is more than passable, for the splendid view of the Dolomites along the entire route and the cosy mountain huts, mountain inns, and alpine guest houses soon make you forget your aches and pains. Ever since we started out from Rodengo/Rodeneck two days ago, we have walked across Alpine meadows in full bloom and crossed craggy rock formations, met cows in their pastures, and listened to the whistling of the alpine marmots or “Murmelen”, as they are referred to locally. Along the way, we see the towering peaks of the Peitlerkofel, Geisler, Langkofel, Plattkofel, and Schlern mountains. Our feet are feeling better by now, because when we told another hiker the

story of our little inconvenience, he was more than happy to help out with a plaster—in the mountains, people help and support each other. And so we can enjoy the little secret gems by the wayside: at the Würzjoch Pass, for instance, geological layers surface which make hundreds of millions of years of earth history come alive. For the landscape that fascinates mountaineers today used to be the bottom of the sea millions of years ago. The calcareous skeletons of the sea dwellers which deposited over time formed the Dolomites of today, giving the “pale mountains” their brightly shining colour. Our sunburn is shining brightly, too, but our eyes are shining even brighter at the end of the tour: for our sporting achievement, for the things we’ve seen and the rewarding experience.

Dolorama Duration: 20 hours (4 legs of 3–6 hours each) Distance: 60 kilometres Difference in altitude: several ascents and descents Starting point: Zumis car park, Rodengo Terminus: Laion/Lajen village

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

A four-day tour is not a walk in the park even for the average sporty person. But the splendid view of the Geisler peaks from the Zendleser Kofel mountain soon makes you forget your aches and pains.

ONE 2019 COR

Family-Friendly Easy as pie

It’s more of a leisurely stroll than a proper hike, but it’s a great adventure for the little ones nevertheless: the Gitschberg Alpine Hut Circuit. The more taxing difference in altitude is easily covered by cable car—a thrill ride for the little ones, and with a spectacular view. Afterwards, the easy route, which won’t even trouble the lazier children, leads across Alpine meadows in full bloom. And if they do start to protest, it will help to bait them with spinach spaetzle and shepherd’s macaroni. We pass a number of inviting huts, from quaint, converted hay barns to comfortable modern mountain inns. On our way from hut to hut, we can enjoy the view of the surrounding mountains or far into Pustertal Valley. It’s the perfect spot for a souvenir family photo. But there is more to this tour than hiking and viewing alone: there are children

to be entertained, after all. No problem! While the parents are relaxing on the sun terrace, the children can explore the huge slides in the Gitschberg Sun Park at the cable car’s upper terminus. Other circular trails in the Gitschberg Jochtal area include, for example, the Stoaner Mandl panorama trail (2.5 hours, 8 kilometres) or the Finther Path in Rodengo (1 hour, 3 kilometres); they lead past dreamy mountain streams and quaint farms and are all suitable for families. There are also many easy and not-quiteas-easy summits to choose from if the children are older and have some experience of mountaineering. By the way, the upper terminus of the Jochtal cable car is excellent for an excursion with children, too: there is an adventure park with climbing opportunities, a petting zoo, a chime of bells in the woods, and trick fountains.

Gitschberg Alpine Hut Circuit Duration: 4.5 hours Distance: 12 kilometres Difference in altitude: 750 metres Starting point and terminus: Gitschberg cable car, upper terminus

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

5 Action!

Tough cookies only

Ugggh, no, this tour is really not for wimps. We are climbing through the Villandro/Villanders adventure mine, where silver and copper had been mined since the Middle Ages. A miner would manage one to three centimetres a day—every step forward equalled roughly two months of work. When the mine was closed in 1908, there were 25 kilometres of pits and tunnels. After that, the mine became derelict until the Villandro Cultural and Museum Association made the place accessible once again and converted it into an adventure mine. Water is dripping on us from the ceiling, and we are wading through hip-high water, navigating the maze consisting of the Matthias, Georg, Elisabeth, and Lorenz Tunnels. Sometimes we climb (experience with via ferratas required), sometimes we proceed on all fours (stay out of this if you’re claustrophobic!). Feeling the thrill of adventure? Definitely! Scared? No. Our experienced guides know the way, and they make us feel safe. We feel like explorers, but we are never on our own.

After three and a half hours, we can see a tiny speck of light in the distance. The tunnel is leading outside. We did it, and we are very proud of ourselves. We think about how hard it must have been to spend the whole day, weeks, months, a whole short life even, in these narrow tunnels, at 8 degrees Celsius, without any good lamps, without any functional wear, without the safety of knowing that the tunnels were properly secured. We emerge into the light, looking down at our muddy protective wear. A group of schoolchildren walks past us. They are wearing helmets and protective suits, too. They are on their way to a smaller, shorter, less demanding tour. A girl asks, “Are you all right?” We nod and laugh. Exhausted but happy.

Mine Tour for Tough Cookies Feeling like an explorer of old: the Villandro Cultural and Museum Association has converted the old mining tunnels into an adventure mine.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

Duration: 3–4 hours Distance: 3.5 kilometres and 150 metres in altitude (70 metres of altitude must be covered climbing) Starting point and terminus: Villandro adventure mine Advance booking required: Information on all mine tours at www.bergwerk.it

ONE 2019 COR

Lüsner Alm Alpine Pasture

Winter Wanderlust Through the snow

We have picked an easy hike: we’ll be walking from the village of Luson via the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to the Pianer Kreuz chapel. It’s an ideal tour for snowshoeing rookies like us. We are warily eyeing these strange tennis rackets which we tie to our feet so we won’t sink into the fine powder snow. Our first few steps are somewhat shaky, but we learn surprisingly fast how to move nimbly through the deep snow. It is true, then: if you can walk, you can snowshoe. Thanks to snowshoes, hikers can pursue their hobby even in winter. In contrast to ski mountaineering, no special training or technique is required. It is a low-risk activity—as long as everyone remembers their avalanche warnings.

Duration: 4 hours Distance: 12 kilometres Difference in altitude: 400 metres

And in Luson we are definitely in the right place; this is South Tyrol’s snowshoeing mecca: via the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to the summits, across the rolling hills of the Kompatsch meadows, or over to the Rodenecker Alm alp. Countless trails lead up to the summits, past serviced Alpine huts with a view of the surrounding mountains. In contrast to skiing, which requires constant focus, on a snowshoeing tour you can let your gaze and mind wander. And there is nothing but snow-covered mountain pastures, towering trees, frozen streams, and summits glistening in the sun as far as the eye can see. Nothing but unspoiled nature up here. And peace and quiet. Paradise.

Starting point: Tulperhof car park, Luson (1,670 metres) Terminus: Pianer Kreuz chapel (1,900 metres)

If you can walk, you can snowshoe. No special training or technique is required.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Every tenth apple originates from South Tyrol. The apple walks are especially charming in spring and autumn.

A Pleasure Hike Across the orchards

South Tyrol is the apple orchard of Europe. Apples are grown here on a surface equalling roughly 25,000 football pitches; the annual yield is approx. 950,000 tonnes. Every tenth European apple originates from South Tyrol. We can see this for ourselves on our apple tour to the Naz-Sciaves/NatzSchabs plateau. We take a leisurely stroll in the sunshine from Naz/Natz to Rasa/ Raas and back, across apple orchards and from time to time through a pretty mixed forest, with no differences in altitude to speak of. Our route also takes us past the Raiermoos biotope, where we can observe the fascinating flora and fauna. We are happy to listen to the apple expert who accompanies us and provides some colourful insight into the world of apple farming. Our guide knows every flower, every bud. But even when you

Apple Tour in Naz-Sciaves Duration: 2.5 hours Distance: 8 kilometres

are hiking on your own, info posts along the way teach you many interesting facts about apple farming in Naz-Sciaves and the “apple region” South Tyrol. We learn about old varieties of apple and modern club varieties during our hike; we learn about the healthy properties of apples, about picking season, and all the things you can do with the fruit. We return to Naz via the Via Crucis, the way of the cross, but not without taking in the view from the Ölberg vantage point one last time; then we head for the subsequent apple tasting with our experts, stomachs rumbling expectantly. We decided to go on the Naz-Sciaves hike in spring because we wanted to see the colourful magic of apple blossom season for ourselves. For some weeks from late April to early May, thousands of apple trees are splendid in white-and-pink bloom. The Apple Blossom Festival is held on 1 May. But the trail is no less beautiful in late summer when the branches are hanging heavy with fruit, or in autumn, during picking season, when the culinary joys of the Apple Festival beckon on the second Sunday in October.

Difference in altitude: 150 metres Starting point and terminus: Naz village square

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

“The water is a friendly element to a man who is at home in it, and who knows how to deal with it.” Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

H2O! Without water there’s no life, no beauty, no indulgence. A tasting.

EISACK RIVER The Eisack river (Isarco in Italian) is the second largest river in South Tyrol. Its source is at the Brenner Pass, and after 99.9 kilometres it flows into the Adige river near Bolzano/Bozen. The river’s name is of Indogermanic origin: “es” or “is” used to mean “running water”.

BIVOUAC Always wanted to try sleeping in the snow? Then attend the South Tyrol Bivouac Camp at the Villandro/Villanders and Lazfons/ Latzfons Alpine pastures, where you can slumber in a tent or an igloo. More information at www.biwakcamp.com

2 MOUNTAIN LAKES There are many mountain lakes in the area around Bressanone/ Brixen and Chiusa/Klausen. The most beautiful ones include the Seefeldsee, Schrüttensee, Radlsee, Puntleider See and Totensee lakes.

5 WATER LIGHT FESTIVAL Every year in May, the “Water Light Festival” is celebrated in Bressanone. Artists from all over the world who draw inspiration from those two elements participate, presenting art installations at the water locations of this historic town. The result is a unique offer of moments centred around water, light, art, and life. A special honour is bestowed upon the town for the 2019 edition: parallel to the festival, the national Italian water congress “Festival dell’Acqua” is taking place, which looks at the topic of water from a scientific point of view. More information at

3 NATURAL POOLS Before there were public pools, the Tinnebach stream served as a natural swimming pool for the people of Chiusa, and it is still a welcome place to cool down on a hot day. In Luson/Lüsen, too, you can enjoy an all-natural swim: the Luson swimming pond, situated picturesquely amidst woods and meadows, was South Tyrol’s first official natural swimming pool. With its 800 square metres of water surface, a waterslide, and a children’s pool, it is particularly family-friendly.

6 PLOSE An artesian mineral water spring originates at the local mountain of Bressanone at an altitude of 1,870 metres. For 60 years the Fellin family has been bottling “Plose” water and selling it to various countries.

20 KM/H Compared to a human being, a drop of rain is slower to fall to the ground: at an average speed of 20 kilometres per hour. With a size of only 2.5 millimetres, it is affected by aerodynamic drag more strongly; it forms its own parachute, so to speak. By the way, a rain drop is actually not drop-shaped at all: a drop of drizzle is a perfect sphere; large drops are flat at the bottom. FLOODED On 9 August 1921, the Eisack river flooded the town of Chiusa, inundating it for several months in water several metres high in places. Many buildings still bear flood marks to commemorate the inundation.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

www.brixen.org/waterlight

1 BARBIAN WATERFALLS

The Barbian waterfalls cover a difference in altitude of 1,520 metres in several cascades over a distance of about six kilometres. At 85 metres, the lowest of the waterfalls is the longest in South Tyrol. Nearby there is a Kneipp facility. Guided easy Kneipp hikes take place every Thursday from 10 am to 1 pm between late June and late September (meeting point: Barbiano/Barbian information office).

4 70 PER CENT In quantitative terms, water is the most important component of the human body. While still accounting for 70 per cent in infants, the water content in adults is reduced to approximately 60 per cent and 45 per cent in elderly people.

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

They say Adelheid Gasser makes South Tyrol’s best Strauben, the traditional local funnel cakes. A visit to her farm in Verdignes/Verdings.

Hot Stuff T e x t — L I S A M A R I A K A G E R P h o t o s — M I C H A E L P E Z Z E I

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Top. Lush, green pastures surround the farm as far as the eye can see, all the way over to the other side of the valley, to the Geisler peaks and the Plose. Adelheid Gasser has lived here since 1958. Right. The Stube public room and the kitchen are the only heated rooms at the farm. T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

“IT TAKES A LOT OF WORK”, Adelheid Gasser says, breathing heavily while unlacing her coarse work boots on a wooden bench in the garden of her farm, called Moar zu Viersch. Even though the morning is sunny, the old farmer’s breath forms little puffs in the air. It doesn’t bother her at all. She is wearing a shortsleeved, chequered blouse and a blue apron with a fine, white pattern. She explains that she almost never feels cold. Not even when going out to the barn at 4:30 every morning to take care of the cows. That’s where she’s coming from now, before moving over to the henhouse. “Let me quickly grab some eggs for our Strauben”, she says, disappearing into the coop. The farmer, who is now ninety years old, was no older than twelve when she had to start helping with the farm work on her parents’ property in Lazfons/ Latzfons. During wartime, children didn’t attend school. They had to help with the work to support the entire family. “I came to the Moar zu Viersch farm back in 1958”, Adelheid Gasser tells us when meeting us at the farm’s large entrance door, carrying eggs and milk. That was when she married her husband and moved here, to his family’s farm. Lush, green pastures surround the old building. From here, the view opens up

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

all the way over to the other side of the valley, to the Gruppo delle Odle/Geisler peaks and the Plose mountain in the distance. Adelheid Gasser still remembers the years when she had to carry their cows’ milk every day, from the farm all the way down to Chiusa/Klausen in the valley. It was a 45-minute walk (and back again), carrying 30 kilos on her back, to earn a small income for the family. Her husband passed away in 1978; the couple didn’t have children. “Well, what can you do?” she asks, looking down at the ground, dragging her feet up the stone steps leading to the first floor. This is where, in the wood-panelled Stube—the dining room typical for Alpine farm houses and the only heated room in the entire building other than the kitchen—she receives guests for the traditional Törggelen events in autumn. Together with her niece, Mechthild, she prepares delicious Schlutzkrapfen (spinach-filled ravioli), barley soup, cured meat, potato pancakes with cabbage (known as Kartoffelblattln), and roasted chestnuts for hungry patrons. But what Adelheid Gasser is truly famous for are her funnel cakes, known as Strauben, and sweet pastries, called Krapfen. →

ONE 2019 COR

Guests are treated to spinach ravioli, barley soup, cured meat, cabbage, potato pancakes, and chestnuts. But what Adelheid Gasser is truly famous for are her Strauben funnel cakes and sweet pastries.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Fluffy, sweet, but not greasy at all, the cake melts nicely in our mouths.

She opens a wooden door right at the front of the hallway. The thick walls that date back to the 9th century and the room’s ceiling are covered in black soot. It is the farm’s smokehouse, where she goes to get her peace and quiet for baking and in order to make room in the kitchen for the other helpers. Normally, this small, blackened room is used to smoke pork cuts from the farm’s pigs: a process commonly used to cure the local ham, called speck. But today, the farmer pours oil into a black, castiron skillet and lights the burner of the stove. Next, she separates two eggs and beats the whites until they are stiff. In another bowl, she combines the yolks with a little sugar and salt, vanilla sugar, melted butter, and milk from the farm’s cows. She pops out of the room for a second and comes back holding a bottle of beer.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Adelheid Gasser does not use a recipe. Her hands know the exact texture of the batter.

Ingredients for four Strauben funnel cakes: 2 eggs 20 g melted butter Salt and sugar Vanilla sugar 150 ml milk 100 ml beer 200 g flour Approx. ½ l cooking fat for baking Powdered sugar Lingonberry (or cranberry) jam, compote, or apple sauce

“It’s a secret ingredient to prevent the Strauben from soaking up all the fat”, she says and laughs, pouring a little bit into the batter. Next, she adds the flour before folding in the egg whites. She says that she never uses a recipe book in the kitchen. It seems like all the years of cooking traditional South Tyrolean dishes have left her with just the right feel for the texture of the different batters. “We need a little more flour, it shouldn’t be that runny”, she finds, before giving the batter a final stir with a ladle. The old woman’s hands are full of wrinkles, her knuckles swollen, but her cheeks are full and red, her eyes a stunning shade of blue. Her grey hair is neatly plaited and tucked under a hair net. When asked about her recipe for eternal youth, she grins: “A half-hour nap after lunch to get your thoughts to rest.” The farmer uses the ladle to spoon the batter into a funnel, keeping the opening at the bottom closed with her index finger. She moves the funnel over the skillet, removes her finger, and lets the batter flow into the hot oil, expertly pouring it in even, looping shapes. While the long, snake-like cake slowly puffs up, turning golden-brown, she brings up the heat before flipping the funnel cake. After a short while, she removes the perfectly fried cake from the hot oil and places it onto a plate. Adelheid Gasser taught herself how to make Strauben, tweaking and changing the recipe to perfection over decades. For special occasions, when she sometimes has to make more than 100 funnel cakes, she gets help from young farmers’ wives from the village, she says, while removing the next sweet cake from the skillet. After garnishing it with powdered sugar and lingonberry jam, she offers some of the sweet treat for us to try: Fluffy, sweet, but not greasy at all, the cake melts nicely in our mouths. This is what Strauben should taste like.

Separate the egg yolks from the whites. Beat the egg whites in a bowl until stiff. Use another bowl to beat the yolks, melted butter, a little sugar, vanilla sugar, salt, milk, and beer until fluffy. Add the sieved flour, fold in the beaten egg whites, and stir until smooth. The resulting batter should be fairly thick. Using a cake funnel, let the batter flow into the hot oil in looping shapes. Fry on both sides until golden-brown. Remove from the oil and serve on a plate with powdered sugar and jam, compote, or apple sauce.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Four of the Eisacktal Valley wines were awarded “Three Glasses” by Gambero Rosso in its “Vini d’Italia 2019” guide: ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER ALTE REBEN 2016 Pacherhof vineyard, Andreas Huber ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER LAHNER 2016 Taschlerhof vineyard, Peter Wachtler ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO RIESLING 2016 Köfererhof vineyard, Günter Kerschbaumer ALTO ADIGE PINOT BIANCO PRAESULIS 2017 Gumphof vineyard, Markus Prackwieser

W T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

W is for Wine Tasting, drinking, and talking shop: how to do it properly. Oenologist Fenja Hinz from Cantina Valle Isarco/ Eisacktaler Kellerei shares some expert tips Fenja Hinz Born in 1988, she grew up in Erlangen (Germany) and trained as a vintner before studying viticulture and oenology at Geisenheim University. She has lived in South Tyrol for roughly three years and is Second Cellar Master at the Cantina Valle Isarco/Eisacktaler Kellerei winery.

Wine philistine that I am, I am staring at the wine shelf at a supermarket in Eisacktal Valley. I want to buy a good quality product. What do I do? I would go for a regional wine and grape variety. Eisacktal Valley is particularly wellknown for its white wines: Sylvaner, Kerner, Veltliner. Be brave! Pick something you have never tried before. And never be afraid to ask and seek some advice. How cheap is too cheap? Everyone has their own upper and lower limits of tolerance when it comes to prices. However, you should always keep in mind that wine production is a complicated and costly thing: it involves a lot of manual labour, especially on the steep slopes of this region, and only one vintage a year.

What if the cork breaks or pieces of cork end up in the wine? Doesn’t look good, but does no harm. The wine will only be spoiled if there is something wrong with the cork, not because there are pieces of cork floating in it. What is the one thing I can always say at a tasting, even if I don’t have any clue whatsoever? My advice would be to say something positive. If it is a young vintage, you can always say, “Ermmm, yeeees, I think this one could stand a little more time.” And that’s true, even if it’s a very good one. For an older vintage I would recommend saying, “Ermmm, uhm, yes, it’s still open and aromatic in spite of its age.”

There is so much I can do wrong when opening a bottle of wine. How can I make it look at least somewhat elegant? Use a good corkscrew, one with a lever. Position the screw perfectly straight in order to hit the cork in the middle. Then drive it in as far as it will go. But be careful with older vintages: the cork may already be a bit porous.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Of Inns and Stars You eat well here. And we’re not just saying that. From starred cuisine to farmer’s inns, in and around Bressanone/ Brixen and Chiusa/Klausen, an exciting culinary culture is prospering, which honours tradition while also trying new things.

T e x t — L E N Z K O P P E L S T Ä T T E R P h o t o s — C A R O L I N E R E N Z L E R

he year 2006 was drawing to a close, but winter would not come just yet, with the air outside still as warm as in late summer, when MARTIN OBERMARZONER earned his first Michelin star. Soon his entire home town of Chiusa knew. Except him. “Congratulations”, texted someone. The young chef frowned. His birthday would not be until a few days later. But when his father came home in a somewhat grumpy mood, something finally began to dawn on him. His father grumbled. Why didn’t he tell him about the star? He had been to see the mayor to discuss something about the fire brigade, and the entire town had congratulated him. It was not until then that the son read about his own distinction in the papers. Even as a small child, Martin Obermarzoner used to play with the frying pans in the kitchen of his parents’ hotel, the Bischofhof in Chiusa. Perched on a hillside, with a view of the idyllic town and the sunlit Säben Abbey. He wanted to be a chef even then. “I never considered being anything else”, he says today, ordering another espresso. His third, to be exact. At ten o’clock in the morning. He went out into the world, training with starred chefs, telling himself, “I want that, too!” “From that point on, the sky was the limit. If you’re going to aim for something, aim high. Right?” Another sip of coffee. The second star would follow in 2011. Into the kitchen. Radio on. Together with his wife, Marlis, Martin Obermarzoner

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

→

COR

ONE 2019

Alexander Thaler is preparing classic steak tartare using local beef, with butter and toast. Patrons from everywhere, locals and tourists, come to try it.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

runs the hotel—the third generation in his family to do so—as well as the Jasmin, his small but excellent gourmet restaurant. Five or six tables, no more. The finest culinary art. He usually does all the work in the kitchen himself. Cleaning spinach is like meditating to him, he says. His vision: “I want to treat my patrons to the best products in the world. And if I find them right on my own doorstep, all the better. I want to use as much of it as possible.” He picks herbs and vegetables in his garden; the trees behind the house provide plums and quinces. Marlis and Martin often take their dog Knuddel into the woods to look for fir cones. Now he’s getting down to business at the cooker. Conjuring up a

winter vegetable salad with Iberian Pata Negra pork loin and herbs, cresses, and flowers. Then a risotto with fir shoots butter and red shrimp. Martin Obermarzoner weaves a spell of the highest culinary quality at the twostar Jasmin restaurant in Chiusa. But the thing about South Tyrol is that a broad variety of places, from a gourmet restaurant to a rustic inn, offer excellent cooking. There is something for every taste there. The region between the Brennero/Brenner Pass and Salorno/Salurn got off to a flying start in culinary terms in the past few decades. And yet everything used to be very different. This piece of land nestled amidst

ONE 2019 COR

cooking shows. “I’ve always been fascinated by the work of a chef ”, he says with shining eyes, “because it is creative and exciting.” But at some point he wanted to come home, like so many South Tyroleans do. And he wanted to practise what he had learned in the wide world. The Sunnegg is surrounded by vines and woods; hot steam and fine aromas are mingling in the kitchen. Lenny Kravitz is on the radio. The chef sings along while he is chopping onions. He is preparing classic steak tartare using local beef, with butter and toast. Patrons come from everywhere, locals and tourists, for this dish. “Good, honest cuisine and traditional places”, says the young chef while he is straight-

the Alps used to offer mainly bland farmer’s meals. South Tyrol was the country of poor man’s food, where dumplings and potatoes had to make do as the dish of the day. Tempi passati! The Mediterranean, Alpine, and Habsburg cuisines have long since started to influence each other; a generation of young, open-minded chefs has rediscovered the many flavours of South Tyrol, learned to celebrate the joys of simple cooking, invented variations, and enriched it all with exciting new, even international ideas. Chefs such as ALEXANDER THALER of the Sunnegg restaurant above Bressanone. The restaurant is aptly named: the sun is burning down on the terrace, where Mr Thaler is currently wiping down tables. The view includes the historic town and the Neustift Monastery. A fig tree proudly spreads its branches hanging heavy with fruit. Like Martin Obermarzoner, Alexander Thaler is a third-generation restaurant owner; his grandfather bought it in the 1950s. He, too, has travelled extensively. He has cooked with Roland Trettl at the legendary Ikarus restaurant at the Hangar-7 in Salzburg; he has been on Italian TV

The restaurant is aptly named: “Sunnegg”. The sun is burning down on the terrace, and the view includes the town of Bressanone and the Neustift Monastery.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

→

COR

ONE 2019

ening the cutlery in the dining room one last time, “I just love that combination.” The rooms are panelled in old barn wood, a tiled stove in each, black-and-white pictures of the grandparents and great-grandparents on the walls. In the small cellar, Alexander Thaler is producing his own wine. Sylvaner, Kerner, Zweigelt: typical Eisacktal Valley varieties. Thaler and his restaurant are part of the “Südtiroler Gasthaus” initiative: 34 family-run inns which have committed to maintaining and rediscovering traditional South Tyrolean cuisine as well as the use of regional, seasonal produce. Mr Thaler has his own herb garden and also cultivates courgettes, tomatoes, and much more. The meat comes from South Tyrol, purchased from the local butcher. Like many of his colleagues, he procures other products from the area; from the gardens of the Aspinger farm in Barbiano/Barbian, for instance, which grows more than 500 almost-forgotten varieties of fruit and vegetable. “I don’t need to prepare kangaroo meat or offer wine from New Zealand”, says Alexander Thaler while he is serving up the steak tartare. “We are mindful of regional cycles, seasonal cuisine.” Thaler and his fellow chefs are banking on new approaches, but they have no ambition to reinvent the culinary wheel. They want to cook like in the olden times—but with an eye to an appropriate mix of the traditional and the modern. Honour tradition but don’t seal yourself off from the new.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

That was the goal of PAUL HUBER when he decided to continue to run his parents’ Buschenschank. In South Tyrol, Buschenschänke are farmhouse inns, mostly offering their own products, either seasonally or year-round. “It wasn’t an easy decision. A lot of work went into it. But I knew that if I was going to do it, I was going to do it properly”, he tells us as he pours a glass of home-grown Sylvaner wine in the 250-year-old Stube, or public room, of his Griesserhof farm in Varna/ Vahrn, north of Bressanone. “This room is the heart of farmer family life”, says Mr Huber. Who can tell what it has seen? Who can tell what else it is going to see? A young couple at the neighbouring table orders Coca-Cola. The carved figure of Jesus on the cross is glaring down at them from the domestic shrine. The farmer and innkeeper grins good-naturedly. “No coke here”, he says and pours them self-made grape juice instead. The Griesserhof was first mentioned in 1192. Paul Huber remembers accompanying his grandfather down to Bressanone, selling bread, butter, and speck from a handcart. In the 1980s, the Eisacktal Valley tradition of Törggelen—autumn feasts of local fare, new wine and roasted chestnuts, offered by the region’s many farmhouse inns—and the Buschenschank principle were watered down somewhat. “We want to go back to the roots”, says the farmer. He serves Schlutzer, a type of ravioli filled with spinach, which melt like butter on the tongue. They taste as they must have tasted a hundred years ago in

this inn, as they will hopefully still taste a hundred years from now. Every dish tells the culinary tale of a microcosm. And the young couple at the neighbouring table order two more glasses of grape juice. Origin and future. The eternal cycle of cooking. Night has fallen over Chiusa, the dining room at the Jasmin is filling up. “I wanted to create completely crazy dishes when I was younger”, says Martin Obermarzoner, tossing the pans with a laugh. “A lot of it was juvenile enthusiasm, I reckon. Nowadays I’m more drawn to simplicity. But one thing remains no matter what: the dish must evoke some emotion in the patron.” No sooner said than he sends out the first round of amuse-gueule. Which includes, incidentally, a small bowl of excellent barley soup.

ONE 2019 COR

Paul Huber serves Schlutzer ravioli which melt like butter on the tongue. They taste as they tasted a hundred years ago on this farm, as they will hopefully still taste in a hundred years from now.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

P I E C E

O F

H I S T O R Y

The Lost Treasure he late 17th-century monstrance made from gilded copper with silver filigree, coral, and glass ornaments was originally from Naples and is part of what is known as the Loreto treasure. Chiusa/Klausen received this “treasure” from Maria Anna, Queen of Spain. Her personal confessor, Capuchin Father Gabriel Pontifeser, had asked her to set up a monastery in his hometown around the year 1700. She also donated several liturgical items, paintings, and other works of art mainly by 16th- and 17th-century artists from Spain and Italy. The collection was named after the Loreto chapel, where it had been kept safe for almost 290 years. But during the night of 26/27 May 1986, large parts of the collection were stolen in a spectacular heist, still known across South Tyrol as the “robbery of the century”. Investigators even found evidence suggesting the crime had been commissioned by someone linked to international drug trade. One year after the inci-

dent, some items were found in Verona, and later, in 1989, large parts of the treasure were recovered in Switzerland. The collection was brought back to Chiusa and exhibited at the town’s museum, which opened in 1992. Almost all of the china—just one cup was missing—was found in a 1998 drug raid in Mestre, near Venice. The most valuable items of the Loreto treasure, which included several chalices, cruets, and the above-mentioned monstrance, were finally recovered in 2013 by a special division of theCarabinieri police. Following extensive restoration work, the 23 remaining items were first displayed at a special exhibition in Rome before making their way home to Chiusa, where they are now on display at the Museum of Chiusa.

Museum of Chiusa + The museum is situated in the old Capuchin monastery. The most popular exhibits include the Loreto treasure and the works of the Chiusa Artists’ Colony led by Alexander Koester. + Chiusa, Capuchin Monastery, Fraghes 1, phone: +39 0472 846 148, open late March to early November www.museumklausenchiusa.it

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Monstrance Age: last quarter of the 17th century Origin: Naples Material: gilded copper, silver filigree, coral, and glass ornaments

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

The Museum + The permanent exhibition at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology is all about Ötzi, the Iceman. On three floors, the exhibition displays both the mummy itself and other finds: clothing and equipment. + In addition, visitors learn the details of how Ötzi was found, the complicated recovery mission, the determination of the mummy’s age, and the sophisticated conservation method. + The museum also has a section dedicated to how our Copper-Age ancestors lived their daily lives. One of the highlights of the exhibition is the lifelike reconstruction of the Iceman. + South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, Bolzano/Bozen: Via Museo 43, phone +39 0471 320 100, Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am to 6 pm, adult ticket 9 EUR. www.iceman.it

Ötzi In 1991, mountaineers at the Schnalstal glacier stumbled upon Ötzi, the ice mummy. The find soon turned out to be sensational: the mummy was more than 5,300 years old and had been naturally preserved in the ice. Thorough examination led to the discovery of an arrowhead in the left shoulder blade: the man had been murdered! When he was alive, Ötzi was approx. 1.60 metres tall and weighed 50 kilos. He had dark hair of medium length and was 45 years old when he died.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Interview

Was the Iceman from Eisacktal Valley? Many secrets still wait to be revealed about Ötzi, the Iceman, a more than 5,000-year-old mummified body found on a glacier. Angelika Fleckinger, director of the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, talks to us about stunning new findings, Eisacktal Valley at the time of Ötzi, and why the Iceman’s mouth tells us a lot about where he came from.

I n t e r v i e w P h o t o s —

— L I S A M A R I A K A G E R M I C H A E L P E Z Z E I

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

ou have been with the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology for more than twenty years, and thirteen years in your current role as director. For you personally, what is the most stunning discovery of all the research done on Ötzi during this time? Definitely the arrowhead found in Ötzi’s shoulder. This soon pointed to the fact that he was murdered, and we had to completely rewrite his story. The Iceman, as he is known, is no ordinary exhibit. The visitors and employees at the museum and the researchers see him as a person, someone who was living and breathing. Ötzi isn’t just a historical artifact, he was a human being. We should treat him with respect.

Over time, numerous samples have been taken from Ötzi’s body to uncover new facts about his life. This is how researchers found that he probably came from Eisacktal Valley. How come? In 2003, the Austrian researcher Wolfgang Müller took a tiny sample of Ötzi’s tooth enamel to examine strontium isotopes. In humans, up to age four, isotopes from our natural environment enter the dental enamel and are preserved there for our whole lifetime. These deposits allow us to determine where someone spent their childhood. Soil samples were taken all across South Tyrol to determine different isotope levels. The results suggest that Ötzi spent his childhood in an area with crystalline soil like you would find in the upper Eisacktal Valley. Soil samples from Velturno/Feldthurns showed the highest match.

“Ötzi isn’t just an item of research, he was a human being. We should treat him with respect.”

Dr Angelika Fleckinger Born in 1970, she read pre- and early history, art history, and classic archaeology at the University of Innsbruck. From 1998 to 2004 she was the coordinator of the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano; in January 2005, she took over as director. Her publications include “Ötzi, the Iceman” and “Ötzi 2.0”.

“Villandro and Velturno were most likely good places to live even in Ötzi’s day and age.”

Did Ötzi spend part of his life in other areas of South Tyrol? The isotopes in his thigh bones indicate that he spent at least the last couple of years in Val Venosta/Vinschgau. And we know that people at the time sometimes moved to other areas. Many women, for example, spent their lives far from where they were born, because they got married or lived in a relationship. Did Ötzi’s family live alone? No, they lived in a small, village-like settlement. We do not know a lot about social structures back at the time, but one thing is for sure: South Tyrol was far less populated than it is today. Why was Eisacktal Valley an area of settlement? People tended to choose flat terrain for their settlements to allow for livestock and crop farming. And water sources played an important role, too. Eisacktal Valley is very steep, but it gets more hospitable at midheight, for example on the Villandro/Villanders and Velturno plateaus above Chiusa/Klausen. These were most likely good places to live even in Ötzi’s day and age. Also for food? Yes, that’s for sure. The diet during the Copper Age mainly consisted of self-bred livestock and farmed

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

The results suggest that Ötzi spent his childhood in an area with crystalline soils like those found in the upper Eisacktal Valley.

crops, but hunting and gathering played an important role, too. Sheep, goats, and cattle were probably sent to high-alp pastures in summer. Just like the farmers today, people used to make hay during that time, which they needed to feed their livestock in winter. What is left from the Iceman’s age here in Eisacktal Valley? There are some finds from the Neolithic period. For example, the Plunacker archaeological site in Villandro and the Tanzgasse ritual place in Velturno—both of them are open to the public. At archaeological sites all over South Tyrol, stone statues known as menhirs were found, including at Bressanone-Tecelinga/Brixen-Tötschling. One of the stones from this archaeological site, which is supposed to depict a male body, is now on display at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. When taking a closer look, you will find weapons and daggers engraved in its hard surface. Which role did cults and rites play in Ötzi’s time? We are sure that the people of the time had some sort of religious beliefs. Unfortunately, there are no written records, so it is impossible to know exactly what religion looked like back then. Ancestor worship probably played a crucial role. And religion was strongly tied to

social life, seeing as the original purpose of religion is to regulate social communities. Just think about the Ten Commandments: they are essentially a rulebook, a guideline for a well-functioning society. Such rules for community life probably existed back in the Iceman’s day, too. The statues that were discovered either symbolised gods, or—and that is even more likely— influential ancestors. And what about Ötzi’s descendants? Do they still live here? Ninety-seven percent of Ötzi’s genome have been sequenced. His female genetic line is extinct, but Ötzi’s DNA from the Y chromosome can still be found. This means that there are several people from the same genetic group as the Iceman. However, this does not mean they are direct relatives. These people now mainly live in Sardinia and Corsica. In continental Europe, the various genetic lines have mingled to a far higher degree. But nobody can rule out being related to him. We often receive emails from people who claim they belong to the same genetic group as Ötzi, especially from the US, where DNA testing has become hugely popular. People get tested on their own accord to learn more about their genetic history and genetic predisposition. →

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

The diet during the Copper Age mainly consisted of self-bred livestock, but the people were also hunters and gatherers.

“There are people who belong to the same genetic group as Ötzi.”

Research on Ötzi, the ice mummy, has been going on for more than twenty-seven years now. What’s left to be discovered? We have seen a significant evolution of research over the last couple of years, and I’m sure this is going to continue. Every year, we receive half a dozen research requests from all over the globe. The Iceman is truly unique. The glacier ice perfectly preserved his body— unlike the mummies in Egypt, where mummification was artificially induced by chemicals or drying. Ötzi is highly valuable for research and helps us gain a more thorough understanding of what life was like in his day and age. What are the questions you would like to find an answer to in the near future? I would like to know even more about what he did during the last days of his life. What exactly happened to him? Why was he murdered? There are so many fascinating questions.

A menhir from Bressanone-Tecelinga is now on display at the Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

PR INFO

Discover an Artist’s Town Shopping, indulgence, and culture in Chiusa/Klausen Store opening hours + Monday to Friday, from 9 am to 12 pm and from 3 pm to 7 pm Saturday 9 am to 12 pm www.klausen.it/shopping

Museum of Chiusa + The museum is open from 24 March to 3 November from Tuesday to Saturday, 9:30 am to 12 pm and 3:30 pm to 6 pm. The Museum of Chiusa is closed on Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. www.museumklausenchiusa.it

Free guided tours of the town

Little Chiusa, situated in the lower Eisacktal Valley, was selected as one of the “Borghi più belli d’Italia”, i. e. one of Italy’s most beautiful historic towns. The mediaeval flair of its alleys and striking town houses with their narrow, beautifully coloured façades has always been a magnet for artists and poets. The Säben Mountain towering over the valley is home to what was once one of the most important episcopal sees of Tyrol. Säben—now a Benedictine convent—as well as the Gothic churches in town, the Capuchin monastery, and the mighty Branzoll castle are testament to the town’s history as a mediaeval customs station. Approx. 2,500 people live in Chiusa, nestled among a picturesque landscape of vineyards and chestnut groves that have seen centuries of active farming. The town was Albrecht Dürer’s source of inspiration for the copper engraving titled “The Great Fortune”, depicting the Greek goddess Nemesis balancing on a sphere over Chiusa. In this modern day and age, numerous little owner-run shops and trendy independent boutiques attract shoppers to stroll along the historical old town

streets. Check out the colourful flower vendors, find traditional and modern craftwork, shop top-of-the-range women’s fashion, and explore native, regional, and fair-trade products. The inns situated alongside Chiusa’s winding alleys have been around for centuries, serving guests back when the main road from Brennero/ Brenner to the south still crossed right through the village. Today, the town inns offer plenty of home-made, traditional Alpine dishes from South Tyrol as well as Italian-Mediterranean specialities.

+ Every Tuesday in July, August, and September (in German) Every Monday in July and August (in Italian) Meeting point: Chiusa Tourism Office, Piazza Mercato 1, phone +39 0472 847 424

With its colourful historic town houses and numerous small, owner-run shops, Chiusa’s old town offers many opportunities for strolling and shopping.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

1 TIMELESS ELEGANCE In his workshop in Rio di Pusteria/Mühlbach, Robert Pflanzer makes comfy felt slippers, traditional yet modern, with a timeless elegance. Pure natural wool felt and pure cotton regulate temperature, keep you warm, and prevent sweating. The slippers, known as “Patschen” in South Tyrol, are sewn, not glued, and washable at 30° Celsius. 54.50 EUR.

2 TAILOR-MADE A little, colourful store featuring unique bags: In her Chiusa/Klausen workshop, Ruth Gantioler produces hand-made, customised bags with a keen eye for details like studs, braids, leather straps, and chains. Starting at 165 EUR. www.r-lovely-bag.it

3 LOCAL SWEETS Vegan chocolate from South Tyrol, produced from scratch in Eisacktal Valley. Instead of simply using chocolate mass or couverture, this chocolate is made from scratch using fair-trade premium cocoa beans from different source regions that are roasted, ground and refined in South Tyrol to make delicious Karuna chocolate. Starting at 5.40 EUR. Available in select retail stores.

www.orthopant.com www.karunacatering.it

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Beautiful Things Products from the region

6 4

4 FRESH CRAFT BEER The clear water from the Plose mountain is the basis for South Tyrol’s straw-coloured Pale Ale “Alma”. The beer is refreshingly tart with tropically fruity hop flavours and especially great when paired with savoury curries or juicy, pan-seared fish. The Köstlan craft beer brewery in Bressanone/Brixen sells the ale in bottles of half a litre each at a cost of 5.30 EUR.

www.stampfl.it

5 BETTER THAN NEW Turn the old into something better: Doris Raffeiner and Camila Hernandez de Alba run an upcycling concept store featuring products created by local social cooperatives, artists, designers, and workshops for disabled people. In the shop’s sewing room, they manufacture purses from all kinds of upcycled materials.

6 GO FOR GOAT It all starts with Richard Zingerle’s goats, raised on his Untereggerhof farm in Valles/Vals at an altitude of 1,200 metres above sea level. Their milk is used to make cheese, and the whey from cheese production goes into Unteregger Cosmetics’s soothing whey skincare products. Whey is rich in different types of vitamin B, whey protein, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and iodine and has excellent skincare and haircare properties. Prices starting at 16.90 EUR, available in the farm shop and online.

www.wianui.eu

www.unteregger.it

www.koestlan.com

7 A DELICIOUS GIFT Looking for a gift or souvenir that will never end up tossed in some corner, maybe simply because it is way too delicious for that? “Ronegga Bauernkistl” offers crispy local Schüttelbrot bread, hearty Kaminwurzn smoked sausages, speck, honey and jam, syrup, and potatoes straight from Rodengo/ Rodeneck, everything made by local farmers. 41 EUR.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

A Day with … a Wood Carver In “real life”, Felix Fischnaller is a farmer at Talrasterhof. But his true calling is wood carving. A day in the life of a South Tyrolean with a very particular passion. T e x t — M A T T H I A S M A Y R P h o t o s — M I C H A E L P E Z Z E I

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

5:00 am The alarm goes off at the Talrasterhof farm. Felix Fischnaller gets up to go to the stables, feed the ten oxen, check on the four donkeys, the rabbits, the chickens, the ducks. He doesn’t mind getting up so early. When he works away from home, his day starts even earlier, and he will already be in the car by 5 am. After breakfast, he can finally pursue his one great passion: wood carving. Felix Fischnaller lives with his wife Marlene and their three daughters at the Talrasterhof in Scaleres/Schalders, just above Varna/Vahrn near Bressanone/ Brixen. Together with his family, he takes care of the farm animals, but what he truly loves is being in his workshop.

6:56 am At seven o’clock at the very latest, Felix Fischnaller will either be in his workshop, on a job away from home, or in the woods looking for a fine piece to work on. Today he has prepared an old tree trunk. This particular “Zirm”, as the Swiss pine is known in South Tyrol, must have been approximately 200 years old when it was felled. Felix Fischnaller has left it in the woods for ten years, exposed to the elements, rotting away, populated by insects. “People used to look at me funny when I left the material lying in nature for years”, says the wood carver. Rather than preserving its flawlessness, the tree trunk has changed and become unique. Nowadays, these deformed, corroded pieces of wood are his signature feature. He was never interested in beautiful trees with straight trunks; instead, he is enamoured with old, lopsided trunks and branches. “You can tell whether the wood had a tough childhood”, he says with a chuckle. He examines today’s tree trunk with an expert’s eye, trying to find the best use for it. “You can’t bend wood to your will”, he says. “It won’t behave the way you want.” Felix Fischnaller is a carpenter by trade. He worked as an assembly joiner for

thirteen years, and then another sixteen as a forklift operator. In his free time he began to build wooden tables and benches, and over time, more and more orders kept rolling in. He has been self-employed for three years now.

8:38 am Felix Fischnaller has decided that this trunk is going to become a bench. He surveys the wood, tapping it and listening to the sound it makes. Then he sketches the outline of the bench and roughly cuts the wood into shape using a power saw. With the help of a pickaroon—a tool shaped somewhat like a grappling hook used by lumberjacks and log drivers to move sawn tree trunks—he prises out a large chunk.

Deformed, corroded pieces of wood are his signature feature. He is not interested in beautiful trees.

The inside of the trunk is exposed: half of it rotted away and eaten through by beetle larvae. The uninitiated might recoil at the sight. Is this really supposed to become a piece of furniture? But he just grins and sets to work.

10:10 am Using an old adze, a perpendicular axe, Felix Fischnaller carves out the trunk. He removes the rotted interior—including an abandoned wasp’s nest—and soon the aromatic scent of Swiss pine is wafting through the air. He found the adze in an old workshop. He favours this ageing tool: in his opinion, new tools aren’t any good, “except for throwing at someone!” But he cannot go entirely without modern technology. Several power saws are used for the rough cutting of the trunk; a number of machines are kept in the workshop, a band saw, a power plane. But ultimately, no tool compares to one’s own two hands. He buries them in the wood in order to clear away the chippings, and observing him, one does →

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Power saws are used for the rough cutting of the trunk. An old adze is Felix Fischnaller’s instrument of choice when it comes to the carving-out.

Scaleres/ Schalders The mountain village of Scaleres is located at an altitude of 1,035 metres above sea level and has a population of almost 300. A narrow road from the municipality of Varna leads up to the village. The St. Wolfgang’s parish church, consecrated in 1436, is well worth a visit. Scaleres is the starting point of many hiking trails; along the stream to the beautiful Schrüttenseen lakes, for example.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

not want to think about the amount of splinters he will jam into his hands. But wearing gloves is not an option. “I need to feel the wood”, says he. He rarely wastes time on using a carpenter’s rule; usually, he works by eye alone. “My eye is more precise than any carpenter’s rule.”

12:05 pm

Top. Sliver by sliver the wood carver removes the excess wood until the bench is taking the shape he imagined. Bottom. Gloves are not an option for Felix Fischnaller. “I need to feel the wood”, says he.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

He has gradually carved out the trunk; the branch attachments jutting into the trunk from the outside in become visible, giving the work piece its unique character. Felix Fischnaller has put the adze aside and now uses a woodcarving knife for the fine work. The Swiss pine wood is soft and supple thanks to the oils it contains, allowing him to drive the knife into the wood with his fist rather than a hammer. Sliver by sliver he removes the excess wood until the bench is slowly taking the shape he imagined. He does not always get what he originally envisioned. “I just try”, he says, “I can’t keep still, anyway.” He probably inherited his fascination with wood from his father, who died early. “He loved to be out in the woods”, says the son. Together they would pick the right “Zirm” to build sledges. Not children’s sledges, mind you, but the large horn sledges used by local farmers to transport hay from the Alpine pastures down

to the valley in winter. These days, Felix Fischnaller makes deck chairs, table and chair sets, fences, toys, swing sets, and garden sheds, along with the occasional night stand fashioned from a tree trunk, home décor items, or an oversized wooden wheel of cheese for a dairy business. Some of the material comes from his own woods, but sometimes he also buys larger quantities of uncut firewood, which usually include some good pieces. Wood is stacked up all around the workshop; some of the stacks have been here for years. Fischnaller’s raw material also includes planks from a 1749 hay barn, more than a quarter of a millennium old, but still in excellent condition. The wood has a personality, which he aims to preserve.

1:55 pm It’s past lunchtime already, but the woodcarver wants to keep working. The wood has him spellbound. Often his wife will come out and bring him a “Marende”, the traditional Tyrolean afternoon snack, which he will then enjoy in front of the workshop at a small table with a splendid view of both the valley with the village church and the peaks of the Gruppo delle Odle/Geisler in the distance. But today, he skips his Marende with a view. “Marlene sometimes chides me for that”, he admits.

ONE 2019 COR

Felix Fischnaller still needs a few more hours of work until the bench is finished. From time to time he walks around in the woods, looking for trunks and branches for his work.

But she probably also knows that she won’t be able to change him. Life as a farmer and a wood carver can sometimes be a bit much. But Felix Fischnaller won’t hear anything about giving up the Talrasterhof. “I’m fond of this farm”, he says. He took it over in 1998 and has put a lot of effort into its renovation since then. “The farm dates back to the 1500s. It is my duty to keep it alive.” Not least because he trusts that one of his daughters will one day be the Talraster farmer. The combination of the farm and the woodcarving guarantees their income.

4:20 pm Vera, the youngest of his three daughters, pops into the workshop after school. The eleven-year-old picks up a piece of wood and a woodcarving knife, sits down in a corner, and starts crafting, forgetting everything around her. “I almost forget she’s here”, says her father. Quite obviously, he has passed on his passion for wood to Vera, but his other daughters—aged 18 and 20—are very practically-minded, too.

There are approx. 300 million trees in South Tyrol, 99% of which are conifers.

6:30 pm Felix Fischnaller still needs a few more hours of work until the bench is finished and looks the way he wants it to. From time to time he walks around in the woods, looking for trunks and branches for his work. He is not needed at the farm during the day. He has given up dairy farming, even though he won the Young Mountain Farmers Award in 2004 as well as an award for the best milk in South Tyrol. The oxen he keeps for meat production spend the summer on the Alpine

pastures and do not require a lot of work in winter, and neither do the trout he breeds in a small pond.

9:05 pm Fischnaller’s day usually ends at around nine or ten o’clock in the evening. His wife has mucked out the stables in the

meantime, fed the cattle, and prepared supper. They spend the last of the evening together. He used to finish even later, at almost midnight. “But then I wouldn’t get any supper”, he says with a grin. So he has slowed down somewhat. Just like a tree needs time to grow and mature in the woods, a man needs time to rest and recuperate. He wouldn’t have agreed when he was younger. Now he does. “I’m getting older, I can feel it”, he says. But for the time being, Felix Fischnaller can be found every day in his workshop at the Talrasterhof in Scaleres. Because, you know, he couldn’t keep still, anyway.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

A Beginner’s Guide to South Tyrol PART 1:

The Sprachgruppenzugehörigkeitserklärung or: Declaring your Linguistic Affiliation

week or so after we moved to (Yes, it took me a long time to type the word. No, I still South Tyrol in 2008, a man for the life of me can’t pronounce it) isn’t following a knocked on our door. My huslot of it, and I’m sure he just wants to tick his little box band Lorenzo hears the guy out, and get out of the crazy American lady’s house. But he and translates that he’s a cendoes his part for the Ladin minority, piping up to add the sus-taker of sorts. truly-absurd-for-me-yet-absolutely-essential-in-SouthI saunter back into the baby’s Tyrol third option: “Or, C. Ladin.” room, assuming it won’t take the guy long to count to Lorenzo, ever the appeaser, has the guy’s back: “Right, three. But a few minutes later, Lorenzo calls out: “You yes. Ladin. Which, honestly, makes just as much sense have to declare your linguistic group!” for you as the other two…” I call back, “Tell him I only speak I think about it. After a moment, I English. And a little Dutch!” triumphantly declare my language “It’s about cultural He comes to the nursery and says, group: “D. Other.” “Sweetie, it’s not what language There’s a lengthy and at-timesidentity, I conclude.” you speak. You have to decide slightly-heated discussion in diawhich linguistic group you belong lect. My poor husband has to deto.” liver the bad news: “Other isn’t a Now, I’m a cooperative kind of choice.” gal. I enthusiastically fill out customer-service surveys. Now I’m all up in arms: “How is there no ‘Other’?! What I always carry my tray of dirty plates to the rack at the if you don’t speak German, Italian OR Ladin?!” Autogrill restaurants. The guys are both looking at me with a mixture of pity But our apartment was full of boxes to unpack. Our and exasperation. Desperate to end it here and now, I daughter wasn’t sleeping. And I didn’t understand, ask Lorenzo: “What are you declaring?” back then, that proportional representation is integral Not a moment’s pause. “Italian.” to the fabric of South Tyrolean society: depending on This confuses me. “But you’re a native speaker of both.” which linguistic group you belong to, you either go to For him, it’s obvious. “But I feel more Italian.” an Italian or a German school, or you are accepted into “So it’s cultural identity,” I conclude, a bit smugly. “It’s public service jobs. not about language at all.” I didn’t care. I was annoyed, and the baby was crying. If only I hadn’t said anything. Another discussion breaks But I go out and say, “OK. Tell me my choices.” out between these two lucky men, for whom the quesLorenzo says, “A. German or B. Italian.” tion is a no-brainer. They know exactly where they beThe poor Sprachgruppenzugehörigkeitserklärung guy long. They intuitively understand the question’s logic

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

A Short Dictionary of South Tyrolean and its necessity, and have a ready answer. I, meanwhile, am feeling more and more tortured the more I think about it. I can hear a clock ticking reproachfully. Is it inside my head or real? Now the guy in our entrance hall is shifting his weight back and forth, getting antsy. I want to scream: “I only speak English! I’m American! I’m trying to learn Italian, and German, and South Tyrolean dialect. Ladin, too, if you insist. But it’s not that easy!” Instead I throw my hands up, defeated, and turn towards Lorenzo, rolling my eyes. “OK, fine. You’re my husband. Of course I’ll define myself through you. Italian. I declare Italian.” FYI: Everyone who checks into a hotel within the borders of South Tyrol has to declare a linguistic group as well. German, Italian or Ladin. Just kidding, don’t worry. You don’t have to decide on one. On the contrary: my advice to first-time visitors to South Tyrol is to experience all of the groups and their peculiarities. Let yourself be swept up in Italy’s la dolce vita. Take part in local Germanic traditions. Do be sure to visit the Dolomites, where the locals still speak Ladin, the rare and ancient language derived from Colloquial Latin. Three cultures in one place: experience them all!

Understand what the locals say

gluschtn [ˈglʊʃtn̩ ] ... is what South Tyroleans say for something truly mouth-watering that whets your appetite for some yummy food.

Sett’ a Plent! [ˈset:ɐ ˈplɛnt] ... is what people in South Tyrol use when they get into a fret, when something doesn’t turn out quite as expected—or when they don’t agree with somebody. “Plent” is derived from the Italian word “polenta”, a thick mush made from cornmeal.

Rutschelen [ˈʁʊt͜ ʃɛlɛn]

Cassandra Han Born and raised in the US. In 2008, she moved to South Tyrol, where her husband Lorenzo’s mother is from. In this column, she writes about how she learned to love South Tyrol’s quirks and peculiarities… and how she herself slowly became a true South Tyrolean.

Another South Tyrolean word borrowed from the Italian language: the original word is “riccioli”, which means curly or frizzy hair.

ONE 2019

Gadertal Valley

Difference in altitude: either way approx. 1,700 metres

Kilometres, either way: approx. 50

of the Ladins

The March

Every three years, pilgrims from Gadertal Valley walk through the Dolomites all the way to Chiusa/ Klausen, to the Säben Abbey. It takes them three days to get there, and three days to get back. On foot, praying, proud, and godly. Number of pilgrims: approx. 1,000

Säben Abbey (Chiusa)

Photo â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Albert Piccolruaz

ONE 2019 COR

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Photo â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Hans Pescoller

A long-standing tradition In mid-June, some 1,000 religious men of all ages and social classes start their pilgrimage from Gadertal Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;women are not allowed to march with them. The origins of the pilgrimage can be traced back to sometime between 1250 and 1400. It was first mentioned in 1503.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

Photo — Freddy Planinschek

Photo — Hans Pescoller

Candles and kreutzers

Crosses and songs

Back in the day, as stated in the 1503 document, six wax candles had to be brought to participate, and the accompanying priest was paid 31 kreutzers.

In the Ladin language, “procession” is prozescinus. Or jì cun crusc: “Walk with the cross”. On their way through the Dolomites, the pilgrims from twelve parishes sing old songs and say prayers. The inns they sleep at have been the same for generations. But there is also a tradition of sleeping in hay barns.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Photos — Freddy Planinschek

Decorating the crosses

Branches and flowers

The abbess of the Säben Benedictine convent and some of her fellow sisters, who normally live in seclusion, leave their retreat to welcome the pilgrims. During the service, they decorate the pilgrim’s crosses outside the church with box tree branches, flowers, and colourful ribbons.

After the church service, the pilgrims put branches or flowers on their hats, clothes, or backpacks. Box tree branches—known as erba de Jéunn in Ladin—are traditionally believed to keep off pests.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

ONE 2019 COR

In any wind and weather The procession takes place in any weatherâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even when it rains. The pilgrims may find fresh snow on some mountain passes or even get caught up in a snowstorm itself. When they return, their home parishes will ring their church bells to welcome the pilgrims back home. The villagers, together with the priests, altar boys, and brass band, will march out to meet the returning pilgrims. The box tree branches brought back home will then be used to decorate crosses in the living room and on barns and stables.

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

Favourite Places in ... Bressanone/Brixen

1 Searching for the elephant “Every time I enter the cloister at Bressanone Cathedral, I feel like my heartbeat slows down a bit. Even though the cloister is situated right in the centre of the city, it is peacefully quiet. I love looking at all the beautiful frescoes. One of them shows an elephant painted by an artist who had never seen one in his life, but only knew them from stories. As a child, I loved walking around, looking up, trying to find this funny elephant!”

2 Boutiques, not off-theshelf “The people of Bressanone have a great sense of fashion. And the old town offers plenty of great shopping: clothes, purses, shoes, jewellery. Fortunately enough, there are hardly any major brand stores here. Instead, shoppers will find lots of tiny boutiques with Italian design and South Tyrolean fashion brands. My insider tips for shopping: Bastioni Maggiori, Portici Maggiori and Portici Minori, and Via Fienili and Via Mercato Vecchio.”

Ulrike Vikoler, 42, employee

Magdalena Kofler, 22, influencer

4 T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

3 Narrow alleys “My favourite place in Bressanone is situated in the city’s oldest part: Stufles/Stufels. I love the narrow alleys, the ancient buildings, the hidden chapel, the village square with

the fountain, the cobblestone paths, and the pelargoniums outside the windows. Beautiful things can be found in the tiny galleries, goldsmith stores, and little shops. During the holiday season, a little Christmas market is held here at the weekends. All the alleys are lit with candles for the occasion.” Alexandra Wieland, 41, shop assistant

ONE 2019 COR

5 3

4 Hot and greasy “I love the hustle and bustle of Bressanone’s old town on a Saturday morning. The locals run their errands, meet friends and acquaintances every step of the way, and enjoy a good coffee or a nice glass of white wine. At Piazza Hartmann, at the corner of Via Bastioni Maggiori and Via Bastioni Minori, local farmers sell fresh produce, eggs, cheese, and other delicacies. The longest queues can be found at a stall selling pastries, either filled with spinach or cabbage (called Tirtln) or a sweet version filled with jam—all freshly fried in hot oil right at the stall. Delicious!”

this year’s snow quality. And if I’m not in the right mood for skiing, I head out for a nice winter walk. Anyhow, the best thing once you get to the hut is some nice apple strudel pastry.” Eva Wachtler, 24, student

man-language theatre and cabaret performances of “Gruppe Dekadenz” as well as regular jazz concerts. In summer, go to the former prison courtyard—known in local dialect as “Tschumpus”—right next to Bressanone Cathedral for theatre performances, movies, and concerts in a truly special atmosphere.”

rising up between the bare branches in winter. This is the perfect time for me to clear my head. I follow a straight path, either on the left or on the right bank, constantly tracking the flow of the river. And I’m looking forward to a long, slow Saturday morning breakfast when I get back.” Andreas Wolf, 43, accountant

Siegi Gostner, 55, yoga instructor

Evelyn Graber, 39, employee

6 With the flow

5 It’s all about theatre “One of the reasons I really love living here is the wide range of cultural activities on offer. My go-to places are pretty unusual. Anreiterkeller in Stufles is a small, intimate vaulted cellar, featuring Ger-

“On the weekends, I love slipping on my running shoes first thing in the morning, going for a run along the Eisack river. This is the perfect trail for me: My feet easily bounce off the compact ground, a roof of leaves nicely protects me from the warm morning sun in summer, while I see my breath

7 Winter home “Ever since I was little, I’ve spent every Sunday in winter out on the Plose. “Our” mountain sort of turns into the home of every Bressanone citizen during skiing season: Every time we enter one of the huts, every time we ride up the ski lift, we meet friends and acquaintances, have a coffee together, expertly discussing

8 In the shade of chestnut trees “My favourite place in Bressanone is pretty unspectacular: the Rappanlagen park, a small, quiet park near the old town, where the Eisack and the Rienz rivers come together. In spring, summer, and early autumn, I love sitting in the shade of the chestnut trees on one of the nice benches in the park, have fun watching the kids play, read a magazine, or go watch the slackliners practising their stunts.” Klaus Dander, 50, employee

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

COR

ONE 2019

The Perfect Snapshot Photo bloggers Judith Niederwanger and Alexander Pichler from South Tyrol spill their secrets on how to take great Instagram photos

TIP #1 RULE OF THIRDS Simply putting your subject in the centre of your photos is a bore. Using the rule of thirds will make them more interesting. The only thing you need to do is break your picture down into a total of nine squares of exactly the same size by drawing two horizontal and two vertical lines in your mind. Your subject should then be positioned on one of the four intersections, and the horizon should be in the lower or upper third. Many cameras even feature this grid on their viewfinders or displays.

TIP #2 GUIDING LINES AND OLD FENCES These kinds of elements will add to the depth of your picture and guide the viewer’s eye to your core subject. As a guiding line, you could use a path leading to the mountain

or a weathered fence by the roadside. The old fences found all over South Tyrol even make for a great eye-catcher themselves.

TIP #3 HIGHLIGHTING SIZE A common problem is that while you managed to get

a nice shot of a mountain, waterfall, or similar, the size of the subject doesn't really become clear. To highlight dimensions, just add another item to your picture that everyone knows the size of: a person, a hut, or an animal. This will not only perfectly emphasise dimensions, but also add another eye-catcher to your picture!

outh Tyrolean mountains or anywhere in the world: travel, photography, and hiking always go together. Judith Niederwanger and Alexander Pichler are the authors of a successful blog called roterrucksack.com (“roter Rucksack” is German for red backpack). Their Facebook page of the same name has over 10,000 followers, and more than 6,000 people have subscribed to their Instagram feed. In 2019, they released their first book called “Die schönsten Touren und Fotospots in Südtirol” (Raetia, approx. 180 pages, 19.90 EUR, in German) featuring stunning tours handpicked by the pair. For each tour, they present tips on picture composition and how to best set your camera. They reveal the GPS coordinates of the most popular and beautiful photo spots—so get out your hiking boots and hunt for the perfect picture.

www.roterrucksack.com Facebook: RoterRucksack Instagram: @roterrucksack

Send us your best shots! Top: Europe’s highest situated pilgrimage church: Santa Croce di Lazfons/Latzfonser Kreuz Centre: Tre Chiese/Dreikirchen in Barbiano/Barbian Bottom: Cross on the summit of Monte Fana/Pfannspitz at Plose

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

Post your pictures from Bressanone/Brixen, Chiusa/ Klausen, and surroundings, using the hashtag #cormagazine on Instagram (or send them to info@cormagazine.com)! The best shots selected by Judith and Alex will be printed in the next issue of COR Magazine.

12.10.2019 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 03.11.2019

Alpine Tales

www.almgschichten.it

Foto: J. Eheim / Oehler

mybrixen.com