Arturo Delle Donne Professional photographer, with a refined and unique style, Delle Donne mixes his work in advertising campaigns with intense and eclectic artistic activity. In 2008, he won a prize for creative professional photography in the food category. He was described as an “author with an exceptional versatility”. He has been working with ALMA for many years providing photographic services aimed at spreading awareness about Italian food. www.arturodelledonne.com www.stillfood.com
Contemporary Cuisine by Alma Masters Edited by Luciano Tona, Arturo Delle Donne and Andrea Sinigaglia with a Conversation in the Kitchen between Gualtiero Marchesi and Massimo Montanari and 380 recipes by the 78 most renowned Italian chefs
.
. . .
.
M a ssi m i li a no A l ajmo G a eta no A li a K a r l Bau mg a rt n er H ei nz Beck M atteo Berti M a rco Bista r elli Luci a Botte M a ssi mo Bott u r a A lessa n dro Br eda Cr isti a n Brogli a Paol a Bu del Ter esa Buongior no A n ton i no Ca n navacciuolo M a r i a Sole Ca poda n no A lfonso Ca pu to Mor eno Cedron i En r ico Cer e a A n na Cicca ron e M a r i a Cicor ell a Fl av io Costa Cor r a do Cov i ello Ca r lo Cr acco Accu r sio Cr a pa ro En r ico Cr ippa Pi no Cu tta i a Pi etro D’Agosti no Stefa no Dei dda R icca r do De Pr à Paolo Don ei Cor r a do Fa sol ato M a r i a Lu isa Fisch etti A n dr e a Fusco A lessa n dro G avagna A n thon y Genov ese M a rco Gu bbiotti H er bert H i n t n er Er n esto I acca r i no Liber a Iov i n e A n ton i a K lugm a n n Pi etro Lee m a n n Paolo Lopr ior e M ich el M ag a da A r m i n M a ir hofer M a ssi mo M ata r ro Leona r do M a rongiu Paolo M a si er i Isa M a zzocchi Vito Netti Dav i de Olda n i M a r i a A ssu n ta Pa l a zzo Dav i de Pa llu da Giorgio Pa r en ti Pi er Giorgio Pa r i n i Gi a nca r lo Per belli n i Lu igi Pesce Va ler i a Picci n i A n ton io Pisa n i ello Lucio Pom pi li A n ton ell a R icci Niko Rom ito Tizi a no Rossetti Bru no Ru ffi n i Si lv io Sa l moir aghi Stefa no Sa n to A n dr e a Sa r r i Em a n u ele Sca r ello M au r izio Ser r a M a rco Soldati M a ssi mo Spig a roli Fr a ncesco Sposito Sa lvator e Ta ssa Giuseppe Ti na r i Luci a no Tona A ngelo Troi a n i G a eta no Trovato M au ro U l i a s s i M at t eo Vigot t i G i a n p i e r o V i va l d a
. .
.
.
. .
.
.
. .
.
.
. . .
.
.
.
.
.
www.edizioniplan.it
.
.
.
.
. . . .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. .
.
.
.
Euro 37,00
. . . . . .
.
.
.
.
.
.
. . .
.
.
.
.
.
. . . . . .
.
.
.
.
Luci a no Tona A rt u ro De l l e Don n e A n dr e a Si n ig agli a
Andrea Sinigaglia Born in 1977, he has two children. During his career, he had the opportunity to meet major experts in his field and to follow them. After attending the hospitality training institute, in Salsomaggiore Terme, he obtained a degree in humanities an Philosophy at the Catholic University of Milano. He obtained a master degree in “Food Culture ” at the University Alma Mater (Bologna) and the master degree MUST (Manager of Touristic Territorial Development and Appreciation of the Cultural Heritage) at the Catholic University of Piacenza. Among his publications, it is worth highlighting “The Winemaker”. He is Professor of History and Culture of Italian Food at ALMA, where he has been executive manager since 2004, and he deals with external relations and special projects. He is also the director of the Wine Academy.
Italian Taste
Italian Taste
Luciano Tona He is responsible for the teaching at ALMA. Thanks to his technical expertise the knowledge that he acquired working in prestigious European restaurants, and his understanding of raw materials, enables him to share enthusiastically his precious heritage with students. Those who have seen him working at ALMA have certainly noticed how is rustic appearance is completed by the delicacy with which he manipulates materials and the grace with which he deals with pots and pans. He is an expert in his field, capable of preparing delicious food that highlights his creativity. His style, inspired by Gualtiero Marchesi, has been shaped by a more polymorphic cuisine, a mixture between instinct and technique, tradition and fusion influence, rigour and provocation.
Italian Taste
Contemporary cuisine by Alma Masters
Gualtiero Marchesi Born in Milan from a family of restaurant owners from Pavia, more precisely San Zenone Po. He took his first steps into the world of gastronomy, thanks to his family, but he was able to seek his own cooking style. After the war, he moved to Switzerland, where he attended the Lucern Hospitality Management School. After returning to Italy, he worked for some years at the family hotel, Hotel Mercato where he pioneered his innovative yet classical cooking. He subsequently moved to Paris to broaden his knowledge. In 1977, he opened his own restaurant in via Bonvesin de la Riva, in Milan. In 1978, he was awarded a two Michelin stars. In 1985, his restaurant, the first one in Italy, was awarded 3 Michelin stars. Other awards followed, such as Commendatore Ordine al Merito della Repubblica Italiana, Ambrogino d’Oro, and Chevalier dans l’ordre des Arts set des Lettres. He is rector of Alma, International School of Italian Cooking, based in Colorno (Parma). In May 2008, he opened the Restaurant Teatro alla Scala il Marchesino, in Milan. On his 80th birthday, on March 19, 2010, he established the Gualtiero Marchesi Foundation whose mission is the promotion of the beauty in every art, from music to painting, and from sculpture to cooking.
Massimo Montanari Italian historian and professor of Medieval History of the School of Arts and Humanities at the University of Bologna. He also teaches History of Food and he is the director of European Master “Food History and Culture”. He teaches at the University of Gastronomic Sciences at Pollenzo. He is considered one of the major international experts on the history of nutrition. He has devoted his time to the study of the Agriculture History and the Food History, two subjects which are deeply interlinked. He has focused on these two subjects with the aim of reconstructing medieval society as a whole: its economic and social structures (work, power, and property relationships) and concrete and material aspects of everyday life, cultural values and attitude. Within these areas, his works on foo history, are extremely highly regarded.
Š2015 Academia Universa Press - Edizioni Plan - Loreto, Italy www.edizioniplan.it info@edizioniplan.it English version: Miriam Bait Language consultant: Catrin Morris Deepest gratitude is due to Alma personnel, teaching staff, and assistants for their precious collaboration Special thanks to: Diana Ceccato, Alessandra De Luca, Silvia Canali, Luca Govoni, Davide Mondin, Corrado Coviello, Anna Ciccarone, Francesca Cimaglia For their collaboration with the preparation of raw materials, dishes, and photo sets, we thank our students: Eber Andriuolo, Marco Brioschi, Antonio Carmina, Alessandro Corradetti, Jacopo Dalla Giovanna, Edoardo Latino, Leiba Thierry, Giorgio Mufanò, Elena Silvestro, Olmo Tomas, Francesco Valiante, Riccardo Brugnoli, Cristina Gomaz Cuadra The Publisher is thankful to Professor Emanuele Gnemmi for his valuable advice and support. Dish photographs by Arturo Delle Donne Design, lay-out and editing: Charta sas - Milano All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the copyright owner. No authorization for reproduction (total or partial) is granted for teaching purposes. First published: January 2015
All reasonable steps have been taken to contact copyright holders of illustrations used in this book. The Publisher would be pleased to make suitable arrangements with any whom it has not been possible to reach. The Publisher will also be pleased to rectify any errors or omissions, at the earliest opportunity.
Index 14 Foreword
Albino Ivardi Ganapini
16 Introduction 25 In conversation in the kitchen
Andrea Sinigaglia Gualtiero Marchesi e Massimo Montanari
35
Movements
37 38 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64
Comacchio Valley Eel with Broccoli and Garlic Boiled Parsley, Steamed Orchids and Sea Urchins Kitsch Cockscomb and Glazed Spicy Cuttlefish Skewers Fassone Veal “From Head to Toe” Lobster Salad Green Tea Noodle Salad Lukewarm Calf’s Brawn with Wild Salad, Red Wine Vinegar and Pumpkin Seed Oil Laterza Millefeuille Bread with Wild Chicory, Caciocavallo Podolico and Marinated Tomatoes Rosa di Gorizia, Wild Chicory, Apple and Horseradish Cubed Venison Ragoût, Wild Fennel and Aged Vinegars Warm Roe Deer Salad with Raspberry Vinegar Vinaigrette Winter Root Salad with Quail Eggs and Speck from Alto Adige Ox Tail Soufflé with Chanterelle Ragout The Buzera (Tomato Soup with Prawn Scampi) Today Mussels, Clams and Helicrysum Crudites from Our Vegetable Garden A Homemade Snack Cappon Magro (a Genoese Salad of Seafood and Vegetables) Braised Sweetbreads on Cauliflower Mousse, Misticanza and Sweet and Sour Sauce with Sherry and Coffee Cold Spaghetti Salad with Cabras Bottarga and Tomato Coulis Sardinian Partridge Salad and Berries Artichoke Salad Italian “Fry-up” (Fritto Misto alla Milanese) Grey Mullet Carpaccio with Cucumber, Lemon, Capers and Cardamom Snails on a Salad
Paola Budel Carlo Cracco Pietro Leemann Davide Oldani Davide Palluda Maurizio Serra Luciano Tona Karl Baumgartner Vito Netti Alessandro Gavagna Alessandro Gavagna Paolo Donei Herbert Hintner Herbert Hintner Emanuele Scarello Antonia Klugmann Antonia Klugmann Armin Mairhofer Flavio Costa Flavio Costa Stefano Deidda Leonardo Marongiu Marco Soldati Marco Soldati Pier Giorgio Parini Bruno Ruffini
3
Italian Taste
4
65 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82
Sweet and Sour Eel with Raisins and Garden Vegetable Brittle Warm Vegetables with Chicken Oysters, Sweetbreads and Herb Salad Puntarelle and Anchovy Cream Marinated Anchovies, Broccoli… Norcia Black Truffle A Lobster with Three Colours Wild Chicory and Meatballs Seared Onion, Lamb Tartare and Onion Juice Panzanella Liquid Endive Salad, Buffalo Stracciatella, Bread Shavings with Anchovies Cucumber Ciauscolo with Vegetable and Herb Dip Herb Panzanella with Chicken Liver Spheres and Marinated Anchovies Warm Wild Duck Tartare, Spicy Fig Jam, Jerusalem Artichoke Salad and Pennyroyal Crispy Sweetbread with Sweet and Sour Pepper and Artichoke Tuna and Grouper Tartare with Herbs and Local Liquorice Root Swordfish Sandwich with Fake Ratte Potato Ice Cream, Oil, Mint and Lemon Lobster Salad, Oil, Honey and Sherry Vinegar Emulsion Five Different Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano in Five Different Textures
83
Broth and Soups, Rice and Risotto
85 86 87 88 90 91 92 93 94 96 97 98 99 100 101 102
Risotto with Strachitunt, Baby Spinach and Purple Potato Mousse Risotto with Champagne, Oysters and Goat’s Cheese with Chives Cockscomb Soup Risotto with Duck Gizzards Rice, Oysters and Woodcock Rice with Rosemary and Lemon, Perch Fillets Fake “Paniscia” from Novara with Prawn Scampi and Liver Mortadella Risotto with Woodcock Pressed Canederli with Cabbage Salad Barley with Herbs, Flowers and Alpine Seasoned Cheese from Alto Adige Pasta Reale in Capon Consommé Rice and Cuttlefish of the Venetian Lagoon Sopa Coada My Way Escargot Broth Borlotti Bean Soup and Char with Herbs and Smoked Bacon Barley, Goat’s Cheese and Figs
Massimo Spigaroli Massimo Spigaroli Anthony Genovese Paolo Lopriore Paolo Lopriore Maria Cicorella Salvatore Tassa Stefano Santo Antonino Cannavacciuolo Marco Gubbiotti Marco Gubbiotti Marco Gubbiotti Niko Romito Pietro D’Agostino Accursio Craparo Francesco Sposito Massimo Bottura
Enrico Cerea Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Matteo Vigotti Giampiero Vivalda Karl Baumgartner Karl Baumgartner Giancarlo Perbellini Paola Budel Riccardo De Prà Riccardo De Prà Paolo Donei Antonia Klugmann
Index
103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 120 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 132 133 134 135 136 138
New Potato Soup and Wild Herbs White Wine Soup, Sea Urchins and Godia Dumplings Trombetta Courgette Cream with Black Ink Squid and Candied Lemon Peel Frattau Bread… at the Seaside Creamy Fregola with Goat Kid Rennet and Mint, Broad Beans and Raw Prawn Wild Herb Soup, Broad Beans and Curdled Milk Cuttlefish and Artichoke “Burridda” “Ciuppin” (Fish Soup) with Ravioli Filled with Artichoke and Marjoram Borage Cream with Cashews and Radishes Stuffed Lettuce Soup Pasta and Bean Soup, an Old Recipe Consommé, Lamb and Wild Chicory Pumpkin Soup, Salted Ricotta, Olive Sauce and Fried Breadcrumbs Green Chard, Saltwort with Stewed Tomatoes and Mussels Carbonara Risotto Shellfish Stew with Black Pasta and Green Beans Traditional Light Broth from Fano Risotto with Snipe Acquacotta Soup Warm Romano Bean Soup with Baby Spinach, Crispy Red Prawns and Sage Bread Smoked Herring Broth with Lemon Potatoes, Fennel Sauce, Chicory and Wild Roots Pounded Wheat Timbale in Cabbage Leaves with Meatball Ragout Ricotta Soup, Marinated Anchovies and Escarole “Wild Water” Soup with Gurnard Risotto with Saffron and Liquorice Powder Raw Trout, Chestnut and Lentil Soup Reassembled Pancotto (Bread Soup) Goat Kid Soup Cannellini Bean Soup and Escarole, Crispy Cafone Bread and Seasoned Lard Mousse Spelt Soup with Asparagus and Shaved Pecorino Cheese Rice Arancina with Red Mullet Ragout and Wild Fennel A Compression of Pasta and Bean Soup
139
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
141 Rigatoni with Mastic
Armin Mairhofer Emanuele Scarello Flavio Costa Leonardo Marongiu Stefano Deidda Valeria Piccini Paolo Masieri Andrea Sarri Marco Soldati Marco Soldati Isa Mazzocchi Anna Ciccarone Anna Ciccarone Anna Ciccarone Andrea Fusco Moreno Cedroni Lucio Pompili Lucio Pompili Stefano Santo Stefano Santo Salvatore Tassa Antonella Ricci Antonino Cannavacciuolo Alfonso Caputo Massimiliano Alajmo Marco Gubbiotti Niko Romito Niko Romito Francesco Sposito Giuseppe Tinari Pino Cuttaia Massimo Bottura
Carlo Cracco
5
Italian Taste
6
142 144 145 146 147 148 150 151 152 153 154 156 157 158 160 161 162 164 165 166 168 169 170 171 172 174 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 186
Alessandro Gavagna “Tadpoles”, Pasta Crumbs with Vegetables and Nearly Raw Porcini Mushrooms Antonia Klugmann Green Lasagnetta with Wild Garlic Antonia Klugmann Pumpkin Gnocchi, Saffron, Walnuts and Quail Eggs Corrado Coviello Gragnano Spaghetti with Piennolo Tomatoes and Basil Sauce Flavio Costa Trofie with Pesto Sauce Paolo Masieri “Oysters” Andrea Sarri Fresh Ligurian Pasta with a Light Pesto Isa Mazzocchi Lasagne Bolognese Pier Giorgio Parini Chestnut Flour Passatelli with Butter, Parmigiano Reggiano and Pine Cones Tiziano Rossetti Garganelli with Vegetables and Prosciutto Bruno Ruffini Pasta with Two Pastes Bruno Ruffini Shimmering Pasta Gaetano Alia Gragnano Candle Pasta with ‘Nduja Anthony Genovese Rigatoni, Ricotta, Bitter Herbs and Lamb Meatballs Luigi Pesce Vermicelli with Sea Urchins Angelo Troiani Amatriciana with Vermicelli Bucati from Gragnagno Gaetano Trovato Semolina Pappardelle with Cinta Senese Piglet Marinated in Herbs and Green Apples Massimo Mantarro Spaghetti with Purple Aubergines, Cherry Tomatoes, Fried Garlic and Baked Ricotta Flakes Maria Assunta Palazzo Cavatelli with Lamb, Fresh Broad Beans and Juniper-Smoked Ricotta Maria Cicorella Orecchiette with Burnt Wheat Vito Netti Little Semolina Gnocchi with Wild Asparagus Ragout, Spelt Soup and Veal Sweetbreads Vito Netti Cavatelli with Mussel Ragout, Bean Soup and Olives Antonino Cannavacciuolo Fusilli with Genovese sauce Alfonso Caputo Pasta Pie with Ricotta, Mozzarella, Tomato Sauce and Basil Alfonso Caputo The Rock Fish Pasta, that is not Pasta, with Pepper Sauce, Small Shrimps and Chips Ernesto Iaccarino A Vesuvius of Rigatoni Libera Iovine Linguine with Genuine Octopus Ragout Maria Luisa Fischetti Old Fashioned Talli and Potatoes Pietro D’Agostino “Sparrow Tongue” Pasta with Sicilian Swordfish Ragout, Pantelleria Capers and Wild Fennel Antonio Pisaniello “Gricia” Bucatini Antonio Pisaniello Linguine with Clams Francesco Sposito Pasta and Potatoes, Clams and Fried Seaweed Giuseppe Tinari Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Lamb Meat Sauce and Juniper-Smoked Ricotta Giuseppe Tinari Half Water-Half Egg Small Rope Pasta with Ventricina Sauce Accursio Craparo Cuttlefish Saffron Paccheri Stuffed with Sea Urchin Couscous, Prawns and Almond Mauro Uliassi Rigatoni with Salt-Cured Cod Cheeks, Raggia di Monte San Vito Olives and Sogliano Formaggio di Fossa Cheese
Index
187
Things Filled with Other Things
189 190 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 200 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 216 218 220
Potato Gnocchi filled with Ricotta Serendipity: Potato Gnocchi Without Flour Roasted Escarole Ravioli with Celery, Orange and Liquorice Aromas Traditional Piedmont Plin Agnolotti, Served Piping Hot with Broth in a Cup Potato Tortelli Filled with Pheasant, Vegetables and Black Truffle Plum Gnocchi with Butter and Cinnamon Bellunese Snails in Ravioli and Warm Celeriac Gelatine Ravioli with Dry Pears Raviolo with Blue Goat’s Cheese and Lavender with Mantis Shrimp Sweet Ravioli with Ricotta, Cinnamon and Pennyroyal Herb Ravioli with Curd and Walnut Sauce Ligurian Yeast Dough with Tomato Sauce, Anchovies and Olives Pansotti Filled with Creamy Salt-Cured Cod with Light Pesto and Green Beans Parmesan Cappelletti Sweet Colorno Tortelli Bitter Tortello from Castel Goffredo Filled Pasta with Beans, Chestnut and Boiled Must Sauce Pumpkin Tortelli Panzerotti with Ricotta and Spinach Piacenza Tortelli with a Tail Ravioli with Toasted Chestnut Flour and Porcini Mushrooms Green Tortello Vegetable Raviolo with San Patrignano Pecorino di Fossa Cheese Pecorino Ravioli with Aromatic Stock Ravioli with Crescenza Cheese and a Green Sauce Lentil Ravioli with Creamy Amatriciana Sauce Tortelli with Egg Sauce Panzerotto with Giblets, Vincotto and Wild Asparagus
221
The Land, Behind the Myth of Meat
223 Quail, Coffee and Wild Fennel 224 Liquorice Pork with Braised Onion and Celery 225 Grilled Marrow Bone with Broad Beans and Chocolate
Enrico Crippa Pietro Leemann Davide Oldani Davide Palluda Alessandro Breda Alessandro Gavagna Riccardo De PrĂ Herbert Hintner Antonia Klugmann Lucia Botte Paolo Masieri Paolo Masieri Andrea Sarri Cristian Broglia Cristian Broglia Cristian Broglia Cristian Broglia Cristian Broglia Cristian Broglia Isa Mazzocchi Bruno Ruffini Bruno Ruffini Massimo Spigaroli Salvatore Tassa Luciano Tona Marco Bistarelli Valeria Piccini Antonella Ricci
Maria Sole Capodanno Carlo Cracco Carlo Cracco
7
Italian Taste
8
226 227 228 229 230 231 232 233 234 235 236 237 238 239 240 242 243 244 245 246 247 248 250 251 252 253 254 255 256 258 259 260 262 263 264 265
Lobster and Pigeon, Pea Ravioli Sambucano Roast Lamb, Goat’s Cheese and Chamomile Braised Veal Cheeks with Barolo Wine Breaded Beef Cheek with Liquorice Sauce Capon, Cardoons, Cauliflower and Anchovy Sauce with White Truffle Mora Romagnola Pork Fillet, Prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano The Good Thing about Pork Chicken in Three Courses Caramelized Veal Brisket with Star Anise and Ginger, Mashed Potatoes with Parsley Summer Braised Donkey Cheek with Coimo Polenta Bettelmatt Fondue, Green Quail and Corn Mousse Calf’s Brawn Gratin with Bagnetto Rosso and Cardoons Chamois (Goat) Goulash with Nut Polenta and Berry Jam Fillet of Veal with Liquorice Root and Smoked Celeriac Croquettes Venison Fillet with Smoked Potatoes, Sprout and Speck Salad Goose, Apple, Horseradish Piglet Fillet with Cumin Venison Loin Flavoured with Refosco with Celeriac Cream and Dog Rose Chutney Crispy Pork Terrine, Chard and Blue Cheese Lamb Offal Twist, Vernaccia Wine and Bay Leaf Sauce, Small Broad Beans, Peas and Artichokes Rabbit Fricassee Lightly Smoked Farmyard Animal Terrine with Strawberry Aromas Mixed Boiled Meat Onion Stuffed with Horse Chuk, Gutturnio Reduction Ginger Glazed Horse Medallion with Pear and Red Onions Roast Lamb with Sautéed Pioppini Mushrooms, Yoghurt and Curry Roast Rabbit, Hibiscus Tea Carrots and Herbs “Burnt finger” Mutton with Aubergines and Garlic Veal Roulade with Porcini Mushrooms Sautéed Rabbit Cubes with Clary Sage and Potatoes Roast Pigeon with Stuffed Thigh and Vegetables Braised Ox Tail Spheres with Polenta and Cocoa Sauce Rack of Lamb in a Hazelnut Crust with Puntarelle with Anchovies and Fresh Broad Bean Sauce Pork and Sautéed Spare Ribs with Romanesco Broccoli Puree Cinta Senese Piglet Baked in Clay Spitroast Lark with Guanciale, Garlic and Sage
Michel Magada Enrico Crippa Enrico Crippa Davide Oldani Davide Palluda Maurizio Serra Maurizio Serra Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Matteo Vigotti Matteo Vigotti Matteo Vigotti Karl Baumgartner Alessandro Breda Paolo Donei Alessandro Gavagna Armin Mairhofer Emanuele Scarello Stefano Deidda Leonardo Marongiu Marco Soldati Corrado Fasolato Cristian Broglia Isa Mazzocchi Isa Mazzocchi Pier Giorgio Parini Pier Giorgio Parini Tiziano Rossetti Heinz Beck Massimo Spigaroli Marco Bistarelli Marco Bistarelli Andrea Fusco Anthony Genovese Paolo Lopriore Lucio Pompili
Index
266 267 268 270 271 272 274 275 276 278 279 280 282 283 284
Wild Boar with Polenta and Wild Herbs Porchetta Style Rabbit with Potatoes, Anchovy Sauce, Olives and Wild Fennel Wild Boar with Spelt Pie and Gingerbread Sweet and Sour Sauce Parchment-wrapped Lamb with Potatoes and Cherry Tomatoes Boiled Suckling Pig, Lobster, Caramelized Shallots and Pickled Vegetables Roast Goose, Pineapple, Soft Fruit, Foie Gras and Cherry Tea Rabbit with King Trumpet Mushrooms and Broad Beans Beef Cutlet Breaded Lamb Ribs with Ash-Baked Potatoes and Crispy Pickled Vegetables Pork Rib “Naïve”: Neapolitan, Spiced, Caramelized “Lamb Loin” with Herb Filling and Roast Pepper Sauce Irpinia Kid Ischia Rabbit Pullet with Porcini Mushrooms Cooked in a Thin Aromatic Crust Tuscan Pigeon
285
From Freshwater and Seawater
287 288 290 291 292 294 295 296 298 300 302 303 304 306 307 309 310
Monkfish Schnitzel in Cubes Amberjack and Sweetcorn Tartare with Hot Sweetcorn Cream Red Mullet in a Bread with Crust Tapenade and Crispy Salad Polenta with Biancoperla Corn Flour, Soft-shell Crab and Anchovy Cream Sea Bass Fillet with Celery and Black Truffle Essence Mussel Gratin with Orange Stuffed Sardines in a Cone Sardinian Bream, Savoy Cabbage and Pork Rind Stew Livenza Eel Compote with Spring Onions Trieste Cuttlefish, Chamomile and Parsley Braised Lobster, Violet Asparagus and Hot Citrus Citronette Mackerel Roast Grey Mullet and Shellfish and Baby Broad Bean Stew Slightly Seared Tuna Steak with Baby Garden Vegetables and Cannonau Reduction Genoese Red Mullet Sturgeon Stuffed with Crunchy Vegetables with Tomato and Lime Emulsion Red Mullet Fillets with Artichokes and Caviar
Lucio Pompili Angelo Troiani Valeria Piccini Maria Cicorella Mauro Uliassi Mauro Uliassi Antonella Ricci Antonino Cannavacciuolo Teresa Buongiorno Ernesto Iaccarino Lucia Botte Maria Luisa Fischetti Antonio Pisaniello Silvio Salmoiraghi Silvio Salmoiraghi
Maria Sole Capodanno Enrico Cerea Enrico Cerea Paola Budel Michel Magada Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Alessandro Breda Antonia Klugmann Flavio Costa Paolo Masieri Stefano Deidda Giorgio Parenti Marco Soldati Massimo Spigaroli Heinz Beck
9
Italian Taste
10
312 313 314 316 317 319 320 321 322 324 326 327 328 330 333 334
Braised Scallops with Wild Fennel and Tomato Confit Beer-battered Turbot Ribs, Monkfish Tripe and Field Herb Sauce Scallop Saltimbocca with Fennel, Orange and Coffee Zimino Squid A Trip to the Sea Black-Ink Squid Mosaic Mugnaia Sole Fillets, Parsley and Artichokes Steamed Squid with Citrus Essence Seared Amberjack with Clam Sauté Luciana Style Baked Octopus Sicilian Bluefin Tuna Fillet with Sesame Seed Crust and Sweet and Sour Onions Salt-Crusted Sea Bass with Orange and Fennel Salad Octopus Skewer with Chickpea Cream and Rosemary Sauce Herby Scabbardfish Turban, Warm Garlic and Chilli Lettuce Salad and Tomato Mayonnaise Black Cuttlefish Cappuccino Soused Seafish
335
Neither Meat, nor Fish
337 338 339 340 342 343 344 345 346 347 348 350 351 352 353
Egg Yolk Marinated with Light Parmigiano Fondue Caramelized Onion The Illusory Egg and Its Taste (1995) A Rolling Stone Food Valley Egg Soufflé, Lake Carbonara Egg, Lemon and Chocolate Fois Gras Brittle Snails With Piedmont Fricassee Small Fried Tirtlan Stuffed with Sauerkraut Herb Omelette Stewed Savoy Cabbage Green Polenta with Bladder Campion, Sour Cream, Violets and Poppy Seeds “Frico” Flavours Ligurian Snails
Marco Bistarelli Moreno Cedroni Andrea Fusco Paolo Lopriore Paolo Lopriore Paolo Lopriore Paolo Lopriore Luigi Pesce Luigi Pesce Antonio Pisaniello Pietro D’Agostino Pino Cuttaia Pino Cuttaia Massimo Mantarro Massimiliano Alajmo Silvio Salmoiraghi
Carlo Cracco Davide Oldani Pietro Leemann Pietro Leemann Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Massimo Bottura Matteo Vigotti Karl Baumgartner Alessandro Gavagna Riccardo De Prà Antonia Klugmann Emanuele Scarello Marco Soldati
Index
354 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 364 365 366 368
Formaggio di Fossa and Figs with Boiled Must Green Tortilla Stuffed Artichokes Roman and Jewish Style Artichokes King Trumpet Mushrooms with Seasoned Pecorino and Baked Potato Bread in a Wood Oven Black Croutons with Vin Santo Tuscan Beans with Tomatoes Wild Cardoon Flan with Caciocavallo Podolico Fondue Aubergine Parmigiana Tomato Soup with Crispy Bread and Cheese Bavarois Neapolitan Pizza Parmesan Aubergines
369
CosĂŹ fan tutti, Salted Codfish, Dried Cod and Cod
371 372 373 374 375 376 378 379 381 382 383 384 386
Polenta and Salt-Cured Cod Mousse Bread Soup with Salt-Cured Cod Tripe and Popcorn Reverse Steamed Salt-Cured Cod, in Pea Stew with Black Summer Truffle Ligurian Dried Cod with Potatoes Melt-in-the-mouth Crispy Salt-Cured Cod Potatoes and Salt-Cod Millefeuille with Salad Flavoured with Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Salt-Cured Cod Steak with Four Sauces Fennel and Salt-Cured Cod au Gratin Broccoli Cream with Salt-Cured Cod and Potatoes Salt-Cured Cod with Potato Cream, Tomato Confit, Garlic Sauce and Vanilla Oil Baked Salt-Cured Cod with Lentil Cream and Crispy Sun-Dried Peppers A Typical Dried Cod Casserole Messina Style with Cherry Tomatoes, Capers, Potatoes and Olives Golden Cod with White Sesame, Fish Burger, Oyster, Tonic Water and Bergamot
387
Sweets
389 390 392 393
Peanut Cream and Sharon Fruit Pulp Italian Meringue Pie Chocolate and Amaretti Pudding Panna Cotta
Tiziano Rossetti Tiziano Rossetti Anthony Genovese Andrea Fusco Antonella Ricci Stefano Santo Stefano Santo Teresa Buongiorno Antonino Cannavacciuolo Massimo Mantarro Corrado Coviello Corrado Coviello
Enrico Cerea Emanuele Scarello Flavio Costa Paolo Masieri Andrea Sarri Giancarlo Perbellini Valeria Piccini Maria Assunta Palazzo Andrea Fusco Libera Iovine Lucia Botte Massimo Mantarro Accursio Craparo
Carlo Cracco Michel Magada Enrico Crippa Enrico Crippa
11
Italian Taste
394 395 396 397 398 399 400 401 402 405 406 407 408 409 410 412 413 414 415 416 418 419 420 421 422 423 424 425 426 427 428 429 430 432 433 12
Zabaglione The Tahiti Vanilla Taste The Law of Chance A Parmigiano and Pear Dessert Lemon Whipped Cream Upside Down Bisciola Soufflé All the Colours of Polenta Cansiglio Ricotta Cake Rhubarb Cake with Ginger Cream, Saffron and Cream Ice Cream A Cocktail of Poor Desserts Semolina Dumplings with Caramelized Apple Slices Pecorino Cheese Fritters, Custard and Goat’s Milk Ice Cream Rosemary Apple Turnovers with Bread and Malaga Ice Cream “Cicerata” with Warm Citrus Honey Strawberries with Rosé Sparkling Wine, Mint Ice Cream, Almond Biscuit and Honey “Rocks” Granita with Grappa and Grappa Foam Ring Cake with Malvasia Sorbet Emilia Almond Cake Reggio Emilia Style Yo-Yo Trifle Noodles, Almonds and Ricotta Fritters Duchess of Parma Swiss Pine Nut Schmarrn with Marinated Berries Apple, Ricotta and Vinegar Warm Raspberry Tartlet Coffee Pudding Apple and Aubergine Dumplings Orange Almond Brittle, with Chocolate and Pepper Ice Cream, Dark Chocolate, Gorgonzola and Ferrochina Sorbet Ricotta Pudding Gingerbread Soufflé, Rum Jelly and Cream Chestnut Cake with Ricotta Mousse Underground Carrot Bread, Apple and Fior di Latte Ice Cream Tuscan Ricciarelli and Cantucci Biscuits
Enrico Crippa Pietro Leemann Pietro Leemann Davide Oldani Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Luciano Tona Riccardo De Prà Paolo Donei Corrado Fasolato Herbert Hintner Stefano Deidda Davide Palluda Gaetano Alia Emanuele Scarello Emanuele Scarello Isa Mazzocchi Matteo Berti Matteo Berti Matteo Berti Matteo Berti Cristian Broglia Cristian Broglia Armin Mairhofer Pier Giorgio Parini Giancarlo Perbellini Tiziano Rossetti Heinz Beck Moreno Cedroni Anthony Genovese Paolo Lopriore Valeria Piccini Lucio Pompili Lucio Pompili Stefano Santo
Index
434 435 436 437 438 440 441 442 443 444 445 446 448 450 451 452 453 454
Caramelized Pumpkin with Spicy Sauce, Pistachio and Lentils Almond Parfait Like a Tagliatelle Cake Zuccotto with Raisins, Caramelized Pisa Pine Nuts and Zabaglione with Vin Santo Sweet Potato Tartlet, Sharon Fruit Sauce and Fennel Ice Cream Cherry Soup with Yoghurt Ice Cream and Cocoa Waffle Ricotta Cake Buffalo Curd Ricotta Cones, Figs with Almonds and Melted Chocolate Pineapple Cannolo, Fruit, White Chocolate and Passion Fruit Almond Flan with Apple Puree and Amaretti Rum Baba Three Preparations: Lemon Puff, Lemon Delight, Lemon Soufflé Neapolitan Pastiera Neapolitan Doughnuts Almond Cake Warm Apple Cupcake with Modica Chocolate and Almond Milk Egg à la coque, Almond Milk with Passion Fruit Puree Wild Strawberry Soup with Mint and Ginger and Little Plum Cakes With Almond and Chocolate Chip 455 A Horn of Plenty and a Cannolo Wafer with Ricotta Cream and Orange Marmalade 456 White Polenta and Milk
457
Salvatore Tassa Bruno Ruffini Gaetano Trovato Teresa Buongiorno Mauro Uliassi Maria Cicorella Maria Assunta Palazzo Antonella Ricci Antonino Cannavacciuolo Vito Netti Alfonso Caputo Alfonso Caputo Libera Iovine Antonio Pisaniello Giuseppe Tinari Pietro D’Agostino Accursio Craparo Massimo Mantarro Pino Cuttaia Massimiliano Alajmo
Cooking Fundamentals Preparations
464
Words in the Kitchen Glossary
476
Gallery The Chefs
13
Movements
Movements
Comacchio Valley Eel with Broccoli and Garlic Anguilla delle valli di Comacchio con broccoli e aglio A spring and summer starter
Paola Budel
Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 2 live eels -- 2 green broccoli heads -- 2 garlic heads -- 2 dl fresh milk -- 1 dl extra virgin olive oil -- 100 g plain flour (“00� Italian Type) -- 1 dl fresh milk -- 2 dl peanut oil -- salt
-- Wash the eels and fillet -- Cut into slices -- Cut the broccoli heads into florets, boil in salted water and drain al dente -- Boil the broccoli stalks, drain them and blend with extra virgin olive oil until smooth and creamy -- Season with salt -- Peel the garlic, remove the core from the cloves and boil twice -- Cook the cloves with 2 dl of milk until they become soft -- Blend to reduce to cream -- Season with salt -- Dip the eel slices in 1 dl of milk, flour and then deep-fry in peanut oil
-- Serve the fish slices with the broccoli florets -- Complete with the garlic sauce and broccoli sauce on the side
37
Italian Taste
Boiled Parsley, Steamed Orchids and Sea Urchins Prezzemolo bollito, orchidea al vapore e ricci di mare A winter starter
Carlo Cracco
38
Movements
Ingredients
Method
-- 12 sea urchins -- 40 g fresh parsley -- 4 edible orchids -- 1 dl milk -- 1 g black pepper -- 1 g white pepper -- 1 g Szechuan pepper -- 1 g agar-agar -- 5 cl extra virgin olive oil -- 1 cl colatura di alici (creamy seafood sauce obtained from the maceration of anchovies) -- salt
-- First, roast the sesame seeds -- Clean the urchins separately
To finish -- 8 g black sesame seeds -- 15 g Amaretti di Saronno (almond biscuits) -- Maldon salt
For the orchids -- Cook the orchids for 4 minutes in a steam oven -- Season with extra virgin olive oil and colatura di alici
For the milk cream -- Infuse with all the peppercorns the milk for an hour -- Strain the milk -- Add the agar-agar -- Chill in the fridge -- Blend the mix until smooth and creamy For the parsley -- Boil the parsley in salted boiling water -- Drain and dry on kitchen paper -- Season with salt and extra virgin olive oil
Presentation and finishing touches -- Sprinkle parsley evenly onto the serving plates -- Place the sea urchins on the plate -- Add sesame seeds and crumbled Amaretti di Saronno -- Add the milk cream -- Place the orchids in the centre -- Season with a little extra virgin olive oil and Maldon salt
39
Italian Taste
Kitsch A spring and summer starter
Pietro Leemann
Ingredients -- 800 g broad beans, shelled -- 100 g peas, shelled -- 100 g asparagus -- 80 g snow peas -- 2 vine tomatoes For the ricotta mixture -- 1 dl milk -- 60 g cow’s milk ricotta cheese -- 40 g goat’s milk ricotta cheese -- 1 saffron sachet -- 4 cl extra virgin olive oil -- salt and pepper To garnish -- 12 edible flowers -- 4 edible gold leaves -- 10 g chervil -- salt flakes
40
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- Boil the green vegetables separately in salted water -- Cool in ice water -- Peel the broad beans and cut asparagus and snow peas into diamond-shaped pieces -- Peel the tomatoes, cut into quarter, then into slices and remove the seeds -- Dry for 4 hours in the drier
-- Put two concentric circles on the plates, using cow’s ricotta with saffron for the outer ring and the goat’s ricotta with pepper for the inner ring -- Distribute the warm vegetables evenly -- Put one gold leaf in the centre -- Garnish with edible flowers, chervil and dried tomato slices -- Season with extra virgin olive oil and salt flakes
For the ricotta mixture -- Mix the cow’s ricotta with the saffron -- Season with extra virgin olive oil and salt and dilute with a little milk -- Put in a pastry bag -- Mix the goat’s ricotta with pepper, a pinch of salt, extra virgin olive oil and milk -- Put in a pastry bag
Movements
Cockscomb and Glazed Spicy Cuttlefish Skewers Spiedini di creste di gallo e seppie glassate e speziate An all-year-round starter
Davide Oldani
Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 250 g cockscombs -- 1 dl brown veal stock -- 2 g D’O spices
-- Steam the cockscombs -- Thinly slice the celeriac and the cuttlefish -- Marinate both with lemon zest and honey for 10 minutes -- Alternately thread cuttlefish and cockscomb onto the skewers -- Flavour with warm brown veal stock -- Season with D’O spices -- Then drain
-- Season the celeriac with extra virgin olive oil and one tablespoon of the remaining brown veal stock -- Place on the serving plates -- Place the skewer beside the celeriac
To marinate the cuttlefish -- 100 g raw cuttlefish -- 1 cl acacia honey -- grated zest of half a green lemon To finish -- 200 g celeriac, thinly sliced -- 8 cl Ligurian extra virgin olive oil (a light oil from Liguria a region of Northern Italy)
41
Italian Taste
Fassone Veal “From Head to Toe” Il Fassone “dalla testa ai piedi” An all-year-round starter
Davide Palluda
Ingredients From Fassone veal from Piedmont -- 500 g veal “noce” to marinate (fist quality cut of the thigh) -- 200 g lean “fesa di spalla” (thick rib) cut with a knife -- 200 g “falso filetto di spalla o girello di spalla” (fau filet or thick rib), cut into 3 cm cubes -- 100 g boiled calf head -- 100 g boiled veal tongue -- 100 g “piedino” (veal trotters) boiled in water and plenty of vinegar For the vegetables -- 200 g cubed vegetables (carrot, celery, onion and courgette) in equal amounts -- 2 dl vegetable broth -- 1 gelatine sheet -- 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped -- 1 aubergine
42
Method For the noce di coscia marinated in salt (prepare at least two days in advance) -- Cover the noce di coscia with about 70% of its weight in coarse salt and chill for 36 hours, covered with a napkin. -- Then, remove the salt and brush the meat with extra virgin olive oil -- Chill again until required
For the other parts of the veal -- 1 dl red wine vinegar -- 6 cl lemon juice -- 100 g white beans, boiled -- 1.5 dl extra virgin olive oil -- 100 g butter -- 1 egg -- breadcrumbs -- peanut oil for frying -- salt and pepper
For the vegetables -- Blanch the vegetables in salted water for 5 minutes -- Cool in very cold water to fix colours -- Separately warm the vegetable stock -- Season, if necessary, with salt and pepper -- Put in the gelatine, soaked in cold water, dissolve and mix it with the vegetables and the chopped parsley -- Pour the mix into a rectangular mould and chill for at least 6 hours -- Put the aubergine on the griddle (season with salt and pepper with its skin washed and dried) -- Cook for 20 minutes turning frequently to obtain a lightly smoked flavour -- Finally, peel and chop it
To finish -- 5 tablespoons tomato sauce
For the other parts of the veal -- Chop the lean fesa di spalla with a sharp knife
-- Season with a few drops of lemon juice, salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil -- Cut the tongue and the veal head into cubes and mix with white beans -- Season the mix with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper -- Cut the boiled trotter in four pieces, dip in beaten egg, then in the breadcrumbs -- Sauté them in peanut oil at 180°C and season with salt -- Sear the falso filetto in a pan with a little butter
Presentation and finishing touches -- Arrange the following in a rectangular plate, from right to left -- The chopped and seasoned lean fesa di spalla, ball-shaped -- Eight thin sheets of marinated noce di coscia -- Four cubes of vegetable gelatine seasoned with a little of extra virgin olive oil -- The cubes of falso filetto di spalla with one aubergine quenelle on top -- Complete the plate with the calf head, tongue and white beans salad warmed through at the last moment -- Finally, place the tomato sauce and the veal trotter in a porcelain spoon
Movements
Lobster Salad Insalata di astice A spring starter
Maurizio Serra
Ingredients -- 120 g raw beetroot -- 120 g celeriac -- 120 g courgettes -- 120 g carrots -- 60 g spinach -- 4 g rocket sprouts -- 3 g radish sprouts -- 40 g mixed aromatic herbs (chervil, mustard leaves, chives) -- 2 lobsters, about 600 g each -- 2 l court-bouillon for crustaceans To finish -- 2 cl lemon juice -- 1 cl wildflower honey -- 1 cl beetroot juice -- 3 cl extra virgin olive oil -- Cervia salt (salt from a little town on the Adriatic coast of Central Italy)
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- Finely cut all the vegetables (chiffonnade) -- Refresh them separately in iced water -- Cook the lobster in the court-bouillon -- Shell the tail and the claws -- Drain the vegetables and the aromatic herbs
-- Season the vegetables with lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and Cervia salt -- Mix the wildflower honey with extra virgin olive oil and beetroot juice -- Put a disc of honey sauce on the serving plates -- Place the lobster pieces on the sauce -- Complete with a ball of vegetables on top of the lobster
43
Italian Taste
Green Tea Noodle Salad Insalata di tagliolini al tè verde An all year-round starter
Luciano Tona
44
Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
For the noodles -- For the noodles -- 20 g matcha (Japanese green tea) -- 200 g plain flour (“00” Italian Type) -- water (about 7 cl) -- salt
For the noodles -- Make the tagliolini mixing the flour with macha and water -- Cook them in boiling water -- Cool them immediately -- Drain and season with salt if necessary
-- Season the noodles with the orange juice and little Garda light extra virgin olive oil -- Place in serving plates -- Place the missoltini julienne on the top -- Season with orange zest and mint
For the sauce -- 100 g missoltini (typical small freshwater fish from Lake Como) -- 2 oranges -- 2 mint leaves -- 1 dl Garda light extra virgin olive oil (a light oil from Lake Garda)
For the sauce -- Chop the mint -- Grate the orange zest with the a microplane grater -- Squeeze the orange juice -- Simmer the juice until reduced by half -- Skin the missoltini and remove the bones -- Cut the fish flesh into julienne strips
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
“
How does Dante’s glory rate next to a dish of spaghetti?
W
hat we by instinct, in common parlance, would call a ‘first course’, in the following recipes, not without a certain feeling of relief, are not first either in position or importance. Yet pasta keeps its primacy in prestige, which it alone can boast when it comes to a display of Italian cuisine. It is as if to stress the fact that, although of less noble birth, its absence always leaves an empty space in the expectation as well as in the perception of anyone desiring to emerse themselves in a fully Italian taste experience. An imposing dish and, as such, problematic on an haute-cuisine menu, where its inclination to be a single dominating course needs to be adapted to a complex architecture and therefore to be cut down to size. One might say ‘first amongst equals’, seeing how something conceived to be made full use of, now needs to be reined in, spruced up, so that it doesn’t wreak havoc on the haute cuisine model. Pasta is a servant. Served cold it shows its character, it reveals what it’s made of; served hot, it is subservient to its sauce, to its dressing or to the accent which is given to it. It follows the same rules as all carbohydrates and of all starchy food. They are created to bear, to support other things, they are bases, they are the foundations the background and the context. Whichever way you might want to look at it, the geometry of pasta is functional; it needs to be understood and used wisely. Every shape has a history, every history a fate. That which could represent the national staple diet, given the frequency with which it is served; is on the contrary expressed as a perpetual desire to use the imagination to escape its repetition. Thus even children learn to combine pasta shape and sauce, just as they learn their times tables or a nursery rhyme, and challenging it is like challenging a mathematical law or an old melody.
140
Giuseppe Prezzolini
In the recipes that follow, whether they kowtow to national monuments, step outside these unwritten laws, even when combinations are at their most eccentric, no chef dares ‘mess around’ with the relationship between shape and sauce. Thus pasta, is plural. You can only think and conceive of it as plural. In the ways in which it is plated up, in its many versions, in the gestures needed to eat it, in the necessary company it suggests; it is plural. This is because, in our tradition, pasta is a multifaceted element, which can be dough, paste or pasta, as is shown in one of our dishes, which serves wheat pasta, hazelnut paste and anchovy paste. In Italian we say “what ‘pasta’ are you made of?” It’s a question which, in a totally direct way, presses us about our deepest selves, our creeds, our actions, the ideals we follow. What pasta is Italian taste made of? What pasta is its cuisine made of? Its chefs? Its taste artisans? Its communication? The relationship between the chef and the trainee? Which pasta? Let’s start to ask this every time we pay homage to the most famous Italian cuisine in the world and we will discover that there is nothing banal about a plate of bucatini.
”
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
Rigatoni with Mastic Rigatoni alla mastica A winter first course
Carlo Cracco
Ingredients
Method
-- 36 rigatoni pasta (9 per serving) -- 250 g cream -- 4 g mastic (resin of the mastic tree) -- 50 g samphire -- 30 g extra virgin olive oil -- salt
-- Cook the rigatoni in salted boiling water for 10 minutes -- Place the mastic in a pan with a little water and olive oil, and dissolve it -- Add the cream and the rigatoni -- Season stirring gently -- Finally, add the samphire
Presentation and finishing touches -- Place into soup plates and serve
141
Italian Taste
“Tadpoles”, Pasta Crumbs with Vegetables and Nearly Raw Porcini Mushrooms I girini, briciole di pasta buttata condite dall’orto e funghi porcini quasi crudi A spring and summer first course
Alessandro Gavagna Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
For the tadpoles -- 4 eggs -- 150 g plain flour (“00” Italian Type)
For the tadpoles -- Mix the eggs in a bowl -- Sift in the flour and stir with a whisk -- Let it stand for 15 minutes -- Pour the mixture into a colander -- Drop the dough into boiling water, forming the tadpoles -- Drain and cool in cold water
-- Place a blanched and dried vine leaf onto a plate -- Arrange the tadpoles on top -- Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and flakes of Montasio -- Garnish with a few leaves of oregano and wild garlic flowers
For the vegetables -- 120 g small courgettes -- 80 g porcini mushrooms -- 8 courgettes flowers To finish -- 40 g Montasio cheese (cow’s milk cheese from Northeastern Italy) -- 3 cl Karst Plateau extra virgin olive oil -- 4 vine leaves -- 5 g oregano leaves -- a few wild garlic flowers -- salt and pepper
142
For the vegetables -- Slice the mushrooms, cut the courgettes into julienne and open the courgettes flowers -- Sauté the vegetables keeping them crisp -- Add the tadpoles to the vegetables and quickly sauté -- Season with salt and pepper -- Let it stand a few minutes
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
143
Italian Taste
Green Lasagnetta with Wild Garlic La lasagnetta verde all’aglio orsino A spring first course
Antonia Klugmann
144
Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 1 kg plain flour (“00” Italian Type) -- 6 eggs -- 12 egg yolks -- 400 g wild garlic -- 100 g broad beans, shelled -- 100 g peas, shelled -- 8 poppy sprouts -- 150 g fresh goat cheese -- 100 g pistachios, shelled -- 2 dl extra virgin olive oil
-- Place 100 g of wild garlic in the microwave -- Cook at maximum power until dry -- Then crush in a mortar, obtaining a fine powder -- Separately, blend the pistachio with extra virgin olive oil, until creamy -- Then, whisk the remaining wild garlic -- Add the eggs and flour -- Knead the dough to make it smooth and homogeneous -- Make the 10 cm square lasagna and boil them in salted water -- Cool them quickly in order to keep the colour brilliant -- Separately bleach peas, broad beans and poppies -- Cool down in water and ice -- Prepare a lasagnetta alternating pasta with broad beans, peas, cheese and poppy -- Steam cook at 160°C for 5 minutes
-- Place a drop of pistachio cream in the centre of a plate -- Arrange the vegetable lasagnetta -- Dust it with wild garlic powder
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
Pumpkin Gnocchi, Saffron, Walnuts and Quail Eggs Gli gnocchi di zucca piacentina, lo zafferano, le noci e l’uovo di quaglia An autumn and winter first course
Antonia Klugmann
Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 500 g Piacenza pumpkin (pumpkin with green skin and yellow-orange pulp from the region of Emilia Romagna) -- 500 g Mantova pumpkin (pumpkin with lumpy gray peel and orange flesh from the region of Lombardy) -- 4 quail’s eggs -- 1 pinch of saffron threads -- 50 g walnuts, toasted -- 80 g corn starch -- half an onion -- 1 garlic clove -- extra virgin olive oil
-- Peel the Mantova pumpkin and centrifuge -- Bring to a boil the obtained liquid -- Add the onion and the garlic -- Then dissolve the corn starch in cold water -- Add it to the mixture, then heat over low heat and obtain a smooth cream -- Remove from heat and strain -- Separately, cut the Piacenza pumpkin into large irregular pieces -- Bake in the oven at 160°C for about 1 hour -- Remove the seeds and peel, blend them and pass through a sieve to make a smooth mixture -- Place the mix in a pastry bag with a plain nozzle -- Form small gnocchi and place them on a sheet of kitchen paper -- Cook the gnocchi in a hot non-stick pan, with a little extra virgin olive oil
-- Arrange in a layer the centrifuged pumpkin cream -- Arrange three gnocchi on top -- Place a raw quail’s egg yolk in the centre of the plate and season with a little salt -- Complete with a few broken walnuts, some saffron threads and olive oil
145
Italian Taste
Gragnano Spaghetti with Piennolo Tomatoes and Basil Sauce Spaghetti di Gragnano con salsa di Pomodorini del Piennolo e basilico A summer first course
Corrado Coviello
Method Ingredients For the pasta -- 350 g Gragnano spaghetti For the sauce -- 400 g Piennolo tomatoes (small sweet tomatoes from Campania, Southern Italy) -- 30 g onion -- 5 g garlic clove -- 8 g fresh basil leaves -- 4 dl extra virgin olive oil -- salt
146
To finish -- 4 basil sprigs
For the sauce -- Slice the Piennolo tomatoes -- Cut the onion into julienne -- Sweat the onion, and the unpeeled garlic in a pan with extra virgin olive oil -- Add the sliced Piennolo tomatoes -- Season with salt -- Cook over low heat for 10 minutes -- Remove from the heat and discard the garlic -- Add the basil leaves -- Let the flavours infuse -- Pass the sauce through a vegetable mill with a fine mesh For the pasta -- Cook the pasta in salted boiling water -- Drain the pasta and sautĂŠ in the pan with the sauce
Presentation and finishing touches -- Arrange the pasta on individual plates -- Garnish with fresh basil leaves
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
Trofie with Pesto Sauce Trofie al pesto genovese A spring and summer first course
Flavio Costa Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 2 bunches of basil from Pra (basil with little leaves from Genoa, Northern Italy) -- 6 cl extra virgin olive oil -- 50 g pine nuts, toasted -- 30 g Parmigiano Reggiano cheese -- 30 g semi-seasoned Pecorino cheese -- 2 garlic cloves -- 100 g potatoes -- 200 Grigetti green beans -- 400 g Trofie (Ligurian pasta) -- salt
For the green beans -- Trim the green beans and boil them in salted water -- Then drain them and place in a hand blender with a glass -- Add a little extra virgin olive oil and a little cooking water -- Mix and season with salt
-- Pour the green beans cream onto soup plates -- Arrange the trofie over the cream -- Garnish with toasted pine nuts
For the basil pesto -- Wash the basil -- Place it in a mortar with half of the pine nuts, garlic and a little salt -- Pound finely reducing everything to a paste -- Then add the cheese and continue pounding -- Keep adding the extra virgin olive oil and continue pounding in a mortar -- Season with salt For the trofie -- Pour water in a pot -- Add the salt -- Peel the potatoes and cut them into small cubes -- Cook them in salted water -- When it is three-quarters done, add the trofie -- When cooked, drain the pasta -- Season the trofie with the basil pesto -- Toast the remaining pine nuts
147
Italian Taste
“Oysters” “Ostriche” A spring and summer first course
Paolo Masieri
148
Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 8 oysters -- 600 g Trombetta courgettes (long courgettes from Liguria, Northern Italy) -- 4 quail eggs -- 20 g parsley, chopped -- 1 new garlic clove -- 4 angel hair pasta balls -- 2 fresh marjoram sprigs -- zest of 1 lemon -- 1 dl extra virgin olive oil -- salt and pepper
-- Open the oysters and keep the water -- Cook in the oven at 200°C for 2 minutes -- Cook the quail eggs in boiling water for 20 seconds, then cool them -- Clean the Trombetta courgettes and cut into small cubes -- Cook in a little salted boiling water for 4 minutes -- Drain and keep the cooking water -- Cool them -- Blend the warm courgettes and the marjoram -- Add a little cooking water and reduce to a sauce -- Cook the pasta in lightly salted boiling water -- Drain and sauté in a pan with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley and oysters water
-- Place the courgette sauce in soup plates -- Arrange a pasta ball in the centre -- Add the oysters and the quail eggs on top, in the centre -- Season with pepper and complete with grated lemon zest
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
149
Italian Taste
Fresh Ligurian Pasta with a Light Pesto Mandilli de saea accomodati al pesto delicato An all-year-round first course
Andrea Sarri Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
For the dough -- 50 g semolina -- 250 g plain flour (“00� Italian Type) -- 10 egg yolks
For the dough -- Mix the plain flour with the semolina -- Add the egg yolks and knead to obtain a smooth dough -- Lay the dough in very thinly into the pasta maker, like silk sheets -- Cut the dough into 6 cm squares -- Cook the pasta in salted water and drain very well
-- Arrange the pasta on individual plates -- Season with the pesto
For the pesto -- 6 bunches of basil -- 50 g pine nuts -- 1 garlic head -- 3 tablespoons Parmigiano Reggiano cheese -- 8 cl extra virgin olive oil -- 3 ice cubes -- salt
150
For the pesto -- Peel the garlic and remove the core -- In a mortar or in a blender place garlic, pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano and ice, then blend -- Add the basil and continue to blend until creamy -- Add the extra virgin olive oil a little at a time
Pasta, in Every Sense of the Word
Lasagne Bolognese Lasagne alla bolognese An all-year-round first course
Isa Mazzocchi
Ingredients For the dough -- 500 g plain flour (“00” Italian Type) -- 100 g spinach, cooked and blended -- 1 egg -- 3 egg yolks -- 1 dl extra virgin olive oil -- water -- salt For the meat sauce -- 500 g minced beef -- 300 g lean minced pork -- 30 g onion -- 20 g carrot -- 30 g celery -- triple tomato paste -- 2 dl white wine -- 5 l water -- 1 dl extra virgin olive oil -- 2 bay leaves -- salt For the béchamel sauce -- 1 l milk -- 50 g plain flour (“00” Italian Type) -- 50 g butter -- 3 g nutmeg -- salt To finish -- 50 g Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
Method For the dough -- Mix all the ingredients together -- Leave to stand for 30 minutes For the meat sauce -- Cut the vegetables into fine julienne -- Sauté with extra virgin olive oil -- Add the minced meat, the bay leaf and let it brown -- Season with salt -- Pour the white wine and let it evaporate -- Add the tomato paste and water -- Cook over low heat for about 4 hours For the béchamel sauce -- Melt the butter and add the wheat flour -- Heat, then add the cold milk -- Season with salt -- Add the grated nutmeg -- Cook for about 25 minutes and then pass through a chinois strainer
For the lasagna -- Boil the pasta -- Cool it and dry on kitchen paper -- Grease a baking dish -- Spread the base with the meat sauce -- Then cover with a layer of pasta -- Spread a layer of béchamel and then a layer of meat sauce -- Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese -- Continue in the same way until all sauce and pasta are used up -- Top with the Parmigiano Reggiano -- Bake in the oven at 170°C for 30 minutes -- Remove and allow to cool for 10 minutes
Presentation and finishing touches -- Serve the lasagna piping hot directly from the baking dish
151
Sweets
Sweets
Peanut Cream and Sharon Fruit Pulp Crema di arachidi e polpa di cachi A winter dessert
Carlo Cracco Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- 2.5 dl fresh milk -- 2.5 dl fresh cream 35% fat -- 60 g sugar -- 50 g peanuts, shelled -- 1 gelatine sheet (4.8 g) -- 4 ripe sharon fruit -- 10 g cacao nibs (gruĂŠ de cacao)
For the peanut cream -- Blend the peanuts until creamy
-- Cover with abundant sharon fruit pulp -- Serve the cream in the bowls -- Garnish with the grounded cacao nibs
For the sharon fruit pulp -- Strain the sharon fruit pulp until you have a smooth cream For the dessert -- Soak the gelatine sheet in water -- Pour the cream, the sugar, the peanut cream and the milk into a saucepan -- Warm the mixture at 90°C (without bringing to the boil) -- Add the gelatine -- Blend and sieve the mixture -- Place it into individual bowls -- Chill for about two hours to set
389
Italian Taste
Italian Meringue Pie Meringata all’italiana An all-year-round dessert
Michel Magada
Ingredients
Method
For the base -- 5 g custard -- 2.5 dl whipped cream -- 50 g chocolate chips
For the meringue -- Dissolve the sugar in a bain-marie -- Add the egg whites -- Whip up to cool -- Form four disks 0.5 cm high and 6 cm wide on parchment paper and keep the remaining meringue -- Bake at 200°C for one minute and then at 160°C -- Allow to cool
For the meringue -- 250 g sugar -- 125 g egg whites For the chocolate sauce -- 2 dl water -- 50 g sugar -- 20 g cocoa powder
For the chocolate sauce -- Sieve the cocoa -- Add the sugar and stir -- Pour in the water -- Bring to the boil and reach 52° Bé (Baumé scale) For the dessert -- Mix the chocolate chips with the custard -- Add them to the remaining meringue -- Mix it all gently -- Then add the whipped cream -- Place the meringue discs in four 6 cm in diameter steel rings -- Completely fill the rings with the prepared mixture, using a pastry bag -- Chill for three hours and remove the rings
390
Sweets
Presentation and finishing touches -- Serve on individual plates -- Arrange a disc of chocolate sauce on the base of the plate -- Top with the remaining meringue
391
Italian Taste
Chocolate and Amaretti Pudding Bonet An all-year-round dessert
Enrico Crippa Ingredients -- 2 l milk -- 10 whole eggs -- 250 g cocoa -- 350 g sugar -- 300 g Amaretti (almond biscuits) -- 50 g Amaretto di Saronno liqueur (liqueur from Northern Italy, made with almonds) -- 40 g caramel made at 165°C
392
Method -- Crumble the Amaretti biscuits -- Bring the milk to the boil -- Place the eggs, the cocoa, the sugar, the Amaretti and the liqueur into a saucepan -- Pour the hot milk over the egg mixture a little at a time -- Arrange the caramel into individual moulds -- Allow the moulds to cool until the caramel is set -- Pour the milk mixture up to three-quarter of the level of the mould -- Bake the moulds in a bain-marie at 140°C for 35-40 minutes -- Place in a blast chiller up to 2°C
Presentation and finishing touches -- Turn it out like a crème caramel on individual plates and serve
Sweets
Panna Cotta Panna Cotta An all-year-round dessert
Enrico Crippa Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
For the panna cotta -- 400 ml milk -- 350 ml cream -- 75 g sugar -- 2 gelatine sheets -- 100 g sugar -- 25 ml water
For the panna cotta -- Cook the sugar and the water in a zabaglione copper pan to obtain a caramel -- Pour a thin layer onto the bottom of individual moulds -- Soak the gelatine in cold water -- Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring to the boil -- Add the cream, the sugar and the gelatine -- Arrange the mixture on the mould and chill for three hours
-- Cover the base of the soup plates with a thin layer of passion fruit sauce -- Place the panna cotta in the centre
For the passion fruit sauce -- 100 g passion fruit puree -- 35 g sugar -- 3-4 g carob flour
For the passion fruit sauce -- Mix all the ingredients -- Strain through a fine sieve
393
Italian Taste
Zabaglione Zabaione An all-year-round dessert
Enrico Crippa Ingredients -- 4 egg yolks -- 60 g sugar -- 6 cl Moscato d’A sti (sweet wine from Piedmont, Northern Italy)
394
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
-- Place the egg yolks in a zabaglione pan -- Add the sugar and the Moscato d’A sti -- Place the zabaglione pan in a bain-marie and stir with a whisk -- Whip, whisking, to obtain a smooth cream
-- Serve the hot zabaglione in glass bowls -- Serve with mixed biscuits
Sweets
The Tahiti Vanilla Taste Il gusto della vaniglia di Tahiti An all-year-round dessert
Pietro Leemann Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
For the vanilla sauce -- 2 dl milk -- 1 dl cream -- 4 egg yolks -- 80 g sugar -- 1 Tahiti vanilla pod
For the vanilla sauce -- Stir the egg yolks with the sugar vigorously -- Cut the vanilla pod lengthwise -- Bring the milk to the boil with the cream and the vanilla -- Add the mixture to the egg yolks -- Warm at 90째C -- Cool immediately -- Chill for a few hours
-- Place the vanilla sauce, using a spoon, on the bottom of the plate -- Top with the pear quenelle -- Arrange the tagliolini on one side -- Scoop a sorbet ball and place it beside the tagliolini -- Garnish with a dill leaf
For the dill sorbet -- 2 dl water -- 60 g glucose -- 30 g sugar -- 200 g apples, peeled -- juice of 1 lemon -- 30 g dill leaves For the tagliolini (noodles) -- 60 g tagliolini from fresh pasta dough -- 20 g flaked almonds -- 20 g brown sugar -- 20 g butter -- 20 g pistachios, chopped -- 1 pear, cook in red wine
For the dill sorbet -- Blanch the dill leaves keeping four of them for the garnish -- Cool them in iced water -- Cook the apples with water, sugar and glucose -- Blend them with the dill leaves and allow to cool -- Make the sorbet in a ice cream maker -- When the sorbet is almost cold, add the lemon juice For the tagliolini (noodles) -- Butter a baking dish -- Stratify the tagliolini in the baking dish with the sugar, the butter, the pistachios and the almonds -- Bake in the oven at 170째C for 20 minutes -- Using a round cutter obtain the 4 cm wide tagliolini cylinders -- Cut the pear into small cubes -- Form four regular quenelle with them
395
Italian Taste
The Law of Chance La legge del caso An all-year-round dessert
Pietro Leemann Ingredients
Method
For the coffee beans -- 50 g dark chocolate -- 20 g coffee beans
For the coffee beans -- Melt the chocolate in a bain-marie -- Dip in the coffee beans -- Place them on kitchen paper -- Store in a refrigerator
For the caramelized orange zest -- 2 oranges -- 50 g sugar -- water For the caramelized pine nuts -- 50 g pine nuts -- 50 g sugar For the apple -- 2 apples -- 4 dl red wine -- 50 g sugar For the pineapple and kiwi -- 200 g pineapple -- 100 g kiwi For the coconut milk -- 4 dl coconut milk -- 1 vanilla pod -- 50 g sugar -- a quarter of an agar-agar bar To garnish -- half a cinnamon stick -- 40 g lightly toasted pistachios -- 40 regular mint leaves
For the caramelized orange zest -- Cut the orange zest into cubes -- Blanch in water twice, starting with cold water -- Prepare the syrup with the water and 50 g of sugar -- Add the orange zest -- Reduce the syrup almost completely -- Drain the zest on a sheet of kitchen paper -- Dry them well For the caramelized pine nuts -- Boil the pine nuts with 25 g of sugar and water to cover them -- Cool down and let them sit for two hours at room temperature -- Bring them to the boil -- Add 25 g of sugar -- Cook until the sugar begins caramelizing -- Shell the pine nuts and lay them on parchment paper For the apple -- Boil the wine with 50 g of sugar until it becomes syrupy -- Create some apple balls with a melon baller and add them to the prepared syrup -- Remove from the heat and let stand for three hours in the refrigerator For the pineapple and kiwi -- Cut the pineapple into 2 cm cubes -- Dry it in the oven at 75째C for 2 hours -- Cut the kiwi into 0.5 cm cubes
396
For the coconut milk -- Boil the coconut milk with the agar-agar -- Add the vanilla and 50 g of sugar -- Stir vigorously with a whisk -- Finally, pass through a fine sieve (to obtain 400 g of the mixture)
Presentation and finishing touches -- Place the apples on plates -- Place five mint leaves on individual spoons -- Place the warm coconut milk into individual bowls -- In a bowl mix the coffee beans with the pineapple, the pine nuts and the orange zest, to obtain a fruit salad -- Divide the fruit salad into individual bowls -- Serve pouring the fruit salad directly onto the apples, then pour in the coconut sauce into the bowls in front of the customers -- Finally, drop the mint leaves, like falling leaves in autumn
Sweets
A Parmigiano and Pear dessert Dolce di parmigiano e pere An all-year-round dessert
Davide Oldani Ingredients
Method
Presentation and finishing touches
For the iceberg salad and the pears -- 40 g William pears -- 20 g iceberg salad -- 1 cl Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
For the iceberg salad and the pears -- Peel the pears removing the core -- Cut the pears into thin, transparent slices -- Add them to the salad
-- Turn the mousse out -- Serve with the iceberg salad and the raw pear seasoned with the balsamic vinegar
For the Italian meringue -- 32 g egg whites -- 60 g sugar -- 9 g glucose -- 12 dl water
For the Italian meringue -- Cook 48 g of sugar with the water and the glucose -- Bring to 117째C -- Whip the egg whites with 12 g of sugar -- Pour the cooked sugar on the egg whites a little at a time -- Whip until cool
For the mousse -- 90 g whipped cream -- 2 cl cream -- 70 g Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, grated by hand -- 25 g sugar -- 20 g egg yolks -- 6 g gelatine leaves, soaked
For the mousse -- Boil the milk with the cream -- Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl -- Pour in the boiled milk and the cream, stirring -- Cook to make a custard, bringing to 82째C -- Remove from the heat and add the squeezed gelatine -- Warm to 25째C and add the Italian meringue -- Add the whipped cream and the Parmigiano Reggiano -- Pour the mousse into the moulds -- Chill for three hours before serving
397