Elite Magazine July-August 2021

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E L I TE 時 尚 精 英

珠寶世界 夏日保養 中西文化 海景住宅 房產投資

Haute Joaillerie Designer Chia-Chun Chang 專訪頂級珠寶設計師張嘉純

The Spirit of Jade 千年磨礪 溫潤有方——東方人玉情懷 JULY-AUGUST 2021

Rubies: Treasured for Their Rarity and Inner Fire 如焰般的克拉世界——認識七月誕生石

A Carmel-by-the-Sea Residence 卡梅爾海濱住宅改建 打造心儀之居

Summer Wardrobe Essentials for 2021 亮彩迎盛夏 July-August 2021 $6.99

ISSUE 51




目錄 CONTENTS 4

Editor’ s Note 序

6

Editor’ s Pick

8

Chic Accessories for Summer 海灘風情 Summer Wardrobe Essentials for 2021

14

Elevate Your Look and Composure With Jewelry

編輯精選

亮彩迎盛夏 「珠」如妙語 道未言之美——淺說珠寶穿戴禮儀

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Editor’ s Pick 編輯精選

Dainty Azure Timepieces「腕」轉夏夜 20

Choosing a Facial Cleanser 潔面產品選擇指南

26

New Launches 夏季護膚新品

29

The July Birthstone Rubies: Treasured for Their Rarity and Inner Fire

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The Spirit of Jade Its Sacred and Noble Status in Chinese Culture

如焰般的克拉世界——認識七月誕生石

千年磨礪 溫潤有方——東方人玉情懷

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Capturing Eternity Haute Joaillerie Designer Chia-Chun Chang 細繪生命熅火 ——專訪頂級珠寶設計師張嘉純

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Tips for Enjoying a Healthier Summer Barbecue 烤肉配妙方 食肉輕盈無負擔

COVER

Photographer: Edward Dye Stylist: Marisa Ellison Model: Stephanie Lai Makeup and Hair Stylist: Naomi Liu Dress by Stella McCartney Wrist cuff by Chloé Rings(not shown) by Katkim and Ananya Shoes by Casadei

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Contemporary Living With Breathtaking Oceanfront Views: A Carmel-by-the-Sea Residence 坐擁蔚藍畫卷——卡梅爾海濱住宅改建 打造心儀之居

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Home Editor’ s Pick 家居編輯精選

Get Ready for a Sizzling Summer 哈囉,夏天! 62

The Post-Pandemic Long Island Real Estate Market 疫情下的長島地產市場變化


SCH E DUL E A S H O W R O O M APPOI NTM ENT 1755 Rollins Road, Burlingame, CA 94010 • 650-240-3000 • subzero-wolf.com /norcal


張曉鋒 建築設計事務所 美國註冊建築師

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序 EDITOR’S NOTE

一見傾心

“These gems have life in them: Their colors speak, say what words fail of.” 英國知名女文學家Mary Ann Evans筆下寫出寶石無與倫比的風采。 萬物皆有靈,倘若能聽見寶石絮語,會聽見什麼樣的對話?也許方 寸內,穹宇盡纜,星河燦爛;看似靜默,卻生意盎然,遠不止於文 學中的浪漫遐思。 世上找不著兩顆一模一樣的天然寶石,其獨一無二,蘊著曖曖熒 光,承載著億萬年的歲月。從千年傳承的東方玉石文化,或西方文

紐約市歷史建築翻新與改造設計等

明中的誕生石禮俗,皆可見寶石與人們在歷史長河中交織出的深厚

歡迎您來電諮詢。

情誼。當它被精細打磨成珠寶後,成了生活中的時尚配件,時而作

擁有紐約、新澤西及康州執照

珠 寶, 不 再 只 是 精 緻 櫥 窗 中, 透 過 價 格 堆 砌 而 成 的 貴 重 物 品,

美國建築師註冊委員會 NCARB 認證

展 開 的, 將 是 一 段 旅 程, 而 不 僅 是 一 張 購 物 明 細。 本 期 盼 能 透

為最真摯的告白,訴說濃烈的情意。

美國建築師學會 AIA 會員

而是具有靈性的生命。如若我們能珍惜與它的相遇,那麼隨之

綠色建築註冊專業人士 LEED AP

過時尚、文化角度的珠寶特輯,細品究竟何以鑄就其珍貴與璀 璨。本次獨家專訪法國頂級珠寶設計師——張嘉純(Chia-Chun Chang),從她20餘年的設計職涯中,帶我們一窺頂級珠寶世界 蘊藏的神祕風景;而那些溢乎言詞的生命感受,又如何藉由設計 轉譯成一件件美妙的作品? 願您在燦爛的珠寶世界裡,拾掇生命中最婉轉而直白的「 話語 」。

電話:(917) 383-2345 網址:www.xzarch.com Email:szhang@xzarch.com 地址:80 Broad Street, 5th Floor, Manhattan, NY, 10004, USA


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EDITOR'S PICK

Chic Accessories for Summer 海灘風情 3

As the days get longer and warmer, we find ourselves longing for a vacation. Throw your belongings in a woven tote bag and escape the stifling heat with a day trip to the beach. Accessorize with a straw hat and beaded jewelry for a look that is practical yet stylish.

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盛 夏 的 酷 熱 襲 來, 誰 不 想 擁 抱 清 涼 的 大 海?打 開你的首飾盒,選一條亮麗的串珠鍊戴上,頭頂 最適合遮蔽豔陽的大草帽,最後把你的陽傘、墨 鏡、防晒乳、隨身電扇、泳裝,通通丟進可以收納 大小物品的編織托特包裡。隨手一拎,奔向你的

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1 SYDNEY EVAN, 24 IN. ENAMEL EVIL EYE FLOWER ON 0.16 IN. IMPRESSION JASPER NECKLACE, $705, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 2 EUGENIA KIM, MIRABEL GROSGRAIN-TRIMMED WOVEN STRAW HAT, $495, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 3 AKOLA, GALA CRYSTAL PAVÉ AND NATURAL COLORED GLASS STATEMENT NECKLACE, $350, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE. COM | 4 CHLOE, WOODY LARGE PRINTED CANVASAND LEATHER-TRIMMED RAFFIA BASKET BAG, $620, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 5 LOEWE, PAULA'S IBIZA SMALL LEATHER-TRIMMED WOVEN RAFFIA TOTE, $650, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 6 HEIDI KLEIN, SAVANNAH BAY MEDIUM RAFFIA TOTE BAG, $334, MATCHESFASHION.COM 5

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PHOTOS BY SAKSFIFTHAVENUE, NET-A-PORTER ,AND MATCHESFASHION.

美好假期!


Bridging

East &West

兼容東西,發現美好

《時尚精英》是中英雙語的高端生活風格雜誌,致力於發掘根植於東西方文明的傳統價值、智慧與漫布其中的美。 在您追求美好人生的路上,盼《時尚精英》能成為您獲得啟發和激勵的好夥伴。

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ELITE FASHION

Summer Wardrobe Essentials for 2021 亮彩迎盛夏 As the United States begins to reopen after the COVID-19 outbreak, bright and exuberant clothing pieces are flying off the shelves. Though the challenges are far from over, there is a renewed sense of energy in the air. The summer of 2021 is special—it represents the birth of a new era. We want our wardrobe to reflect this through bold colors and joyful prints. 在疫情後重新開放的美國,已有越來越多明亮熱情的服飾重返大眾視野, 儘管困境遠未結束,但空氣中已然可嗅出一股嶄新的活力。 2021年的夏 天很特別,它代表了一個新時代的誕生,讓充滿繽紛色彩、明亮印花的衣 櫃間,來歡慶這特別的時節。

Photographer: Edward Dye Stylist: Marisa Ellison Model: Stephanie Lai Makeup and Hair Stylist: Naomi Liu

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Optimistic colors, such as a sunny yellow, are in trend this summer. They represent happiness and exhilaration, and can counteract stress, making you feel cheerful and energized. 樂觀的顏色,如陽光黃,是今年夏天的趨勢。 它代表著幸福和歡欣,可以中和壓力, 讓人感到愉快,充滿活力。 DRESS BY STELLA McCARTNEY WRIST CUFF BY CHLOÉ RINGS BY KATKIM (LEFT HAND), ANANYA (RIGHT HAND) SHOES BY CASADEI


Nothing says summer quite like a dreamy white dress. To add a bit of edge, accessorize with a black belt and chunky jewelry. 沒有什麼比一件夢幻般的純白連衣裙, 更能體現夏日氣息,不妨搭配一條黑色 腰帶和較為厚重的珠寶作為裝飾,展現 時尚巧思。

DRESS, BELT, NECKLACE, AND SUNGLASSES BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN RINGS BY KATKIM AND GRACE LEE DESIGNS SANDALS BY STELLA McCARTNEY


DRESS, BELT, AND HEELS BY OSCAR DE LA RENTA HAT BY ERIC JAVITS RINGS BY GRACE LEE DESIGNS, KATKIM, AND ANANYA HANDBAG BY ROGER VIVIER

Floral print dresses never go out of style—in fact, they’re even trendier this year. Summery and elegant, they can be dressed up or down using different accessories. 優雅的花卉圖案連衣裙永不過時,而在今年甚至更加流行。可以運用不同的配飾來做加減法。


DRESS AND BOOTS BY ANDREW GN EARRINGS BY BEGUM KHAN RINGS (NOT SHOWN) BY GRACE LEE DESIGNS, KATKIM, AND ANITA KO

Blue radiates serenity, intelligence, and peacefulness. Make a statement at your post-pandemic gathering by choosing a cornflower-blue dress with floral embroidery. 藍色散發著寧靜、聰慧與和平的氣息,穿上一條矢車菊藍的花卉刺繡連衣裙,出席疫情後久違的聚會吧!


For your summer getaway, a light and airy pastel dress is a must-have. Choose a wrap dress that reveals a hint of skin, yet with a demure look and a laid-back touch. 一件輕盈的粉彩色連衣裙,是夏季出遊必 備。選擇一件裹身連衣裙,添一分端莊, 又不失悠閒氣息。

FULL LOOK BY CHLOÉ WRIST CUFF BY CHLOÉ RINGS (NOT SHOWN) BY GRACE LEE DESIGNS, KATKIM, AND BEA BONGIASCA


ELITE FASHION

ELEVATE YOUR LOOK AND COMPOSURE WITH JEWELRY 「珠」如妙語 道未言之美 ——淺說珠寶穿戴禮儀 By Elite’s Fashion Editorial Team

Queen Alexandra when Princess of Wales, oil on canvas by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (1805–1873). Princess Alexandra’s ball gown bears the badge of the Order of Victoria and Albert. Her brooch and earrings were a gift from Prince Albert Edward upon their marriage in 1863. Courtesy of The Royal Collection

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rom the beginning of the Mesopotamian civilization, through the Middle Ages, and to the 18th-century Victorian Era, jewelry has had an important role in society. Its role has gradually changed from serving religious purposes to being a status symbol for nobles, and eventually making its way into the everyday person’s wardrobe.

「 愚 頓 的 珠 寶 沉 默不 語,卻比任 何言 語 更能 打 動 女人 心。」英國文豪莎士比亞曾如此在其著作中形容珠寶, 珠寶就像是一道語言,能體現文字、話語所未能觸及的 細膩情感。從美索不達米亞文明開始,走過中世紀,再 到18世紀維多利亞時代(Victorian era),珠寶設計產 業大放異彩;從宗教用途到皇宮貴族的表徵,再一步步 地 走 入人人可及的時 尚生活中。這琳 琅滿目的珠寶首 飾,有著什麼樣的穿戴哲學呢?

ACHIEVING THE BEST EFFECT WITH EARRINGS In ancient China, it was said that wearing earrings could affect a young woman’s entire demeanor, helping her become more graceful and composed. This remains true today—an elegant pair of earrings can instantly elevate any outfit as well as the wearer’s bearing. Earrings come in three main categories: hoops, studs, and drops. Within these, there are numerous other types, depending on length, shape, and size. Though small, earrings can make a remarkable statement.

精巧的氣質烘托者——耳飾 相傳於中國古代,女性配戴耳墜有約束儀態之作用,避 免做出有失禮節的行為。現今耳飾主要類型可分為耳墜、 耳釘以及耳環三類。它們又依短長、大小、形狀細分成多 種,如吊燈式的華麗珠寶耳墜(Chandelier Earrings), 或是一般垂狀的長耳墜(Dangle Earrings),耳釘式設 計雖相對簡約,但也有許多優雅大方的經典款式。 出席正式場合,若以耳飾作為宣言珠寶(Statement Jewelry),或是配戴華麗的長耳墜,切記 避免搭配 過 於浮誇的項鍊,除非耳墜與項鍊是成對的珠寶,否則兩 者容易互搶光彩,重點在於協調感。若想增添其他珠寶,

1 FABERGÉ, HERITAGE 18 K. GOLD, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, $9,975, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 2 PIAGET, SUNLIGHT EARRINGS IN 18 K. ROSE GOLD SET WITH 30 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS, $17,900, PIAGET.COM | 3 HARRY WINSTON, CLUSTER CHANDELIER EARRINGS FEATURING DIAMONDS SET IN PLATINUM, PRICE UPON REQUEST, HARRYWINSTON.COM | 4 IRENE NEUWIRTH, SUPER BLOOM 18 K. GOLD DIAMOND EARRINGS, $12,940, NET-A-PORTER.COM

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PIAGET, ROSE NECKLACE IN 18 K. WHITE GOLD SET WITH 199 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS, $53,500, PIAGET.COM

可考慮戒指、手環。 配戴此類耳墜時, TIFFANY & CO., MIXED-CUT NECKLACE IN YELLOW GOLD WITH AQUAMARINES, $60,000, TIFFANY.COM

記得 維 持 髮型滑順,盤 上 長 髮,並注 意 別讓頭型過於蓬鬆、顯大。若出席商業場 合,避免配戴任何會發出聲響的耳墜,簡 練的耳釘更為合適。選擇耳飾類型時,應將 臉型納入考量——例如圓形臉,可以搭配長 條狀的耳飾,達到拉長臉型的效果;心型臉則 適合 配戴下方較為寬 厚的耳飾,如水滴狀或扇 形耳墜,這可以讓 臉部視覺 效 果更為平 衡;若為 橢圓臉型,任何一種耳飾都可以多加嘗試。 巧妙的氣場主導者——項鍊 項 鍊依其長度呈現不同的造型 效 果,如近年又再次流 行 的 短 項 圈 型(Choker), 這 種 貼 合 頸 寬 的 短 鍊 設 計,可追溯至英王愛德華七世之妻——亞歷山德拉王后 (Queen Alexandra)。她為了掩蓋頸上的小傷疤,特請

When wearing statement earrings, avoid elaborat e necklaces. Earrings and a necklace of equal extravagance will fight for attention and end up looking gaudy. Instead, consider replacing the necklace with some rings or bracelets. Bold earrings look best with hairstyles that are sleek and simple. Extravagant hairstyles take attention away from the jewelry. If you’re in a business setting, avoid wearing earrings that are extra large or flashy. Play it safe and go for a pair of delicate studs. When choosing earrings, be sure to take your face shape into consideration. For example, dangle earrings on a round face can achieve an elongating effect. Heart-shaped faces are best-suited for wider earrings, such as drop- or fan-style ones. If you have an oval face, then you’re in luck, as nearly all shapes suit you. CHOOSING A NECKLACE STYLE Necklaces come in a wide variety of styles and lengths—there’s a perfect piece for every occasion. The choker style recently made a comeback. Its

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工匠設計這款項鍊。

The Comtesse Daru, 1810, oil on canvas by Jacques-Louis David (1748–1825). The countess wears a floral headdress and a parure of semiprecious stones with a typical Napoleonic dress. Courtesy of The Frick Collection, New York


creation can be traced to Queen Alexandra (1844– 1925), the wife of King Edward VII. In order to cover a childhood scar on her neck, she began wearing high-neck pearl chokers. The trend soon spread to other noble and upper-class ladies, and persisted for more than 50 years. Princess necklaces are another popular style. These come in a variety of styles and are universally flattering. They fall right below the collarbone, and the extended V-shape helps elongate the face. The matinée style is slightly longer than the princess one, falling just between the collarbone and bust. Finally, there’s the opera-style necklace, which falls below the chest and can be harder to style. Its long length makes it very eye-catching, and it is usually the statement piece of an outfit. It is best worn with high-neck or boat-neck shirts. Layering multiple necklaces is currently a major trend and an easy way to add a touch of creativity to your outfit. However, layering should be saved for casual occasions. If you’re attending a formal dinner, we recommend that you choose a shorter, simpler piece. As with earrings, if your necklace is particularly elaborate, then it’s important to keep the rest of your jewelry small and simple. WEARING BRACELETS AND RINGS TO ADVANTAGE People typically give less thought to their rings and bracelets, as those pieces don’t stand out as much. However, they can actually be major mood-boosters. Studies have shown that wearing your favorite jewelry can make you feel happier, and throughout the day, there’s no part of your body that you see more than your hands. Earrings and bracelets are worn far apart on the body, so you don’t need to worry about the two pieces fighting for attention. You can also match your earrings and bracelet to make your outfit look more put-together. If wearing multiple bracelets, make sure there’s a common element connecting all the pieces.

Portrait of Alexandra of Denmark, 1905, oil on canvas, by Luke Fildes (1844–1927). Queen Alexandra popularized the choker-style necklace. She began wearing high-neck pearl chokers to cover a childhood scar on her neck, and the trend spread. Courtesy of The Royal Collection

後 來,這 種高領 項 圈,包含 鎖骨 鏈(Collar),開 始引領潮流,風靡 50 年之久。另外不同長度的項鍊還 有公主型(Princess),該類型 頗為常見,適用範圍廣 泛,而其鏈延伸的 V 型,還可修飾臉型;另還有馬汀尼 型(Matinee)、歌劇型(Opera),主要依長度分為這 五種。歌劇型長鍊,一般服裝難以駕馭,適合高領或船 型領口設計。選擇任何一種項鍊,需掌握一大原則,就 是按領口的線條與造型來搭配。 除珍珠鏈外,一般多層項鍊組(Layers)屬於較為 休閒的風格,若出席正式晚宴,宜選擇大方簡練的高領 款式。若配戴純珍珠項鍊,可精簡其他部位的珠寶;以 項鍊做為宣言珠寶時,最好身著素色、線條簡約的上衣, 或直接露出鎖骨。項鍊與耳飾部位接近,若配戴華麗的 項墜,不妨選擇小巧的耳釘點綴。

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Though rings are relatively small, one with intricate engravings or sparkling gemstones can serve as a statement piece. If you’re wearing multiple rings, keep the statement piece in the center and place the other rings around it. When you wear more than one ring, forgo wrist jewelry, so your hand won’t look cluttered. Additionally, make sure to keep your fingernails well-maintained, as hand jewelry draws attention to them. Based on traditions from the ancient Roman empire, wedding rings and family heirlooms are typically worn on the left hand in America and some other Western countries. This is because it was believed that the left hand was unique in having a vein that ran directly to the heart—vena amoris (the vein of love.) 分秒相惜的情緒牽引者——手鍊、戒指

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手鍊、戒指這類首飾在戴上後還是能時刻看見,因此容 易影響穿戴者的心情,時常配戴心儀的手飾能提升心情 並非空論。 手環、手鍊也 適合與耳飾搭 配,可以 透 過 款 式 或 顏色相呼應,一則強調風格主題,二則因為兩者配戴的 位置並不衝突,能 創造 整體 的協調感。珍 珠手鍊 或銬 式手環,通常會作為手鍊組件的要角,若還想搭配其他 手鏈,應圍繞著它們去做變化,避免出現與其相沖的元 素。細長的串珠式手鍊,可多條一起配戴,適合輕鬆休 閒的氛圍。 戒指雖然是相對小巧的珠寶,但不乏刻工精細,或 閃耀的寶石、鑽戒等,足以作為宣言珠寶。若想配戴多 個戒指,可以寶石戒為中心,將配戒戴在其他指上。若 指上已配戴多件,就得盡量避免手腕類的首飾。根據古 羅馬帝國的傳統,左手多用來配戴婚戒、家族傳承的戒 指,如今已是約定俗成、廣為人知的穿戴禮儀,因為左 手有條與心臟相連的靜脈,稱作「Vena amoris」( 愛之 靜脈 ),如果你戴了顆亮眼的寶石鑽戒,切莫忘記修整 指甲,因為他人的目光都會落在你的手上。

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1 HARRY WINSTON, WINSTON IN BLOOM RING FEATURING A PEAR-SHAPE YELLOW DIAMOND AND DIAMONDS SET IN PLATINUM, PRICE UPON REQUEST, HARRYWINSTON.COM | 2 TIFFANY & CO., PALOMA’S STUDIO NARROW HEXAGON CUFF IN 18 K. GOLD WITH GREEN TOURMALINES, $38,000, TIFFANY.COM | 3 TIFFANY & CO., PALOMA’S STUDIO BAGUETTE FOUR-STONE RING IN GOLD WITH BLUE TOPAZES AND CITRINES, $5,000, TIFFANY.COM


EDITOR'S PICK

DAINTY AZURE TIMEPIECES 「 腕 」轉夏夜

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PHOTOS BY BOUCHERON, CHOPARD, DIOR, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS AND WIRESTOCK

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Elevate your look with a sophisticated timepiece in a striking shade of blue. Elegant and feminine, these timepieces are the perfect accessory for the modern woman. Not only are they practical, but they can also be styled up or down for many occasions. 靜謐的寶藍與深邃的夜空藍色調,彷彿將夏日清澈的星 空收攬在腕間閃爍。戴上這一只只讓人一見傾心的優雅 設計,且兼具實用效能的珠寶腕錶,出席各種場合皆游 刃有餘,是現代都會女性襯托氣質的首選錶款。

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1 DIOR, STEEL, 18 K. YELLOW GOLD, DIAMONDS AND LAPIS LAZULI GEM DIOR, SEVERAL SIZES AVAILABLE, $18,000, DIOR. COM | 2 JAEGER-LECOULTRE, NEW REVERSO ONE PRECIOUS FLOWERS, WHITE LILIES, LIMITED EDITION, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, JAEGER-LECOULTRE.COM | 3 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, HIGH JEWELRY FOLIE DES PRÉS WATCH, WHITE GOLD, DIAMOND, MOTHER-OF-PEARL, SAPPHIRE, $154,000, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM | 4 BOUCHERON, SERPENT BOHÈME JEWELRY WATCH WITH LAPIS LAZULI DIAL AND FOUR DIAMOND INDEXES, SET WITH DIAMONDS, ON YELLOW GOLD, LAPIS LAZULI AND DIAMONDS BRACELET, $‌43,000, BOUCHERON.COM | 5 CHOPARD, “L’HEURE DU DIAMANT” FEATURING A CHOPARD 9.01-C AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT, 4.26 CARATS OF DIAMONDS, A LAPIS LAZULI DIAL SET IN 18 K. WHITE GOLD, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, AVAILABLE AT CHOPARD BOUTIQUES


ELITE BEAUTY

CHOOSING A

FACIAL CLEANSER 潔面產品選擇指南 English by Pia-Maria Norris Translated by Kelly Gao

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n addition to keeping the skin moisturized and protected from the sun, cleansing is the first and most important step in your skin care routine and in the quest for maintaining a healthy and youthful-looking complexion. Picking the right cleanser for your skin type is also essential. For example, oily skin should stay away from thick cleansing balms to avoid potential breakouts and clogging. Considering all the different options and textures among facial cleansers, choosing one can be tricky. So we put together a list of 11 types of cleansers to help you choose the one that might be best for your purpose and skin type. 除了保溼和防晒外,清潔是您日常護膚,維持肌膚健 康年輕的第一步,也是最重要的一步。 為您的膚質選擇適合的潔面乳也很重要。比如: 油性膚質應遠離厚重的卸妝膏,以避免爆痘和毛孔堵 塞。市面上各色潔面品眾多,質地各異,選擇一種可 能會很難。因此,我們匯整了 11 種不同類型的品項, 幫助您選擇最適合自己膚質的潔顏品。

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GEL CLEANSERS

Gel cleansers are light face washes that are deep-cleansing. They are 潔顏凝膠 typically clear, with a gel-like consistency, and need to be rinsed off with water. Gel cleansers remove makeup, and some of them also have antiseptic and exfoliating properties, which make them effective at removing excess oil, decongesting clogged pores, and eliminating acne-causing bacteria. Gel cleansers tend to be suitable for normal, combination, oily, and acne-prone skin. 潔顏凝膠是能夠進行深層清潔的清透性潔面乳。它通常 是透明的,凝膠般的質地,需要用水沖洗乾淨。這類潔 顏品還可用於卸妝,其中一些還具有殺菌和去角質的功 效,能夠有效去除多餘的油脂、疏通堵塞的毛孔,並滅 除引起痘痘的細菌。一般適用於中性、混合性、油性及 易長痘痘的膚質。

Natura Bisse Facial Cleansing Gel + A.H.A. ($55, naturabisse.com)

Cream cleansers are creamy and thick, with moisturizing ingredients like botanical oils. They gently but ef潔顏乳霜 fectively cleanse and remove traces of makeup without stripping the skin of its natural oils, leaving skin soft and beautiful. Most of them require rinsing, whereas some need to be wiped off with a cloth. Cream cleansers are suitable for dry, normal, mature, and sensitive skin. In cold weather, they are ideal for all skin types. If you have mature skin that is dry, then this is the perfect cleanser.

CREAM CLEANSERS

潔顏乳霜是乳脂狀的,質地濃稠,含有植物油等保溼成 分。該類型潔顏品可以溫和而有效地清潔和去除殘妝, 並且不會帶走皮膚的天然油脂,讓皮膚柔軟有光澤。該 質地的洗面乳霜需要沖洗,有些還需要用化妝棉擦拭。 一般適用於乾性、中性、熟齡。及敏感肌膚。它是氣候 Dr Sebagh Rose de Vie Cream Cleanser (£32.00, drsebagh.com)

寒冷時,所有膚質的理想選擇。如果您是熟齡且偏乾性 肌膚,那麼該類潔顏霜將是最佳選擇。

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Milk cleansers don’t contain milk, contrary to popular belief. They are called so because of their milky tex牛奶潔面乳 ture. They are thinner than cream cleansers, and they gently but effectively cleanse and break down makeup, dirt, sweat, and oils. Milk cleansers are moisturizing but don’t leave a creamy feel as cream cleansers do, and they can typically be either wiped off with a cloth or face wipe or rinsed away with water. Milk cleansers are ideal for dry, normal, and sensitive skin.

MILK CLEANSERS

牛奶潔面乳並不含有牛奶。人們之所以這樣稱呼,是因 為它質地像牛奶一樣,比潔顏乳霜更輕盈,可以溫和而 有效地清潔和分解彩妝、汙垢、汗水和油脂。牛奶潔面 乳具有保溼功效,但不會像乳霜那樣留下乳脂般地油膩 感,通常可以用布或化妝棉擦掉,或用水沖洗。牛奶潔 面乳是乾性、中性和敏感皮膚的理想選擇。

La Prairie Foam Cleanser ($90, laprairie.com)

Avène Gentle Milk Cleanser ($20, aveneusa.com)

Foam cleansers start out as cream or gel and burst into a foamy, rich lather 泡沫潔面乳 when combined with water. They are perfect for removing layers of makeup, oil, and hard-to-wash-off sunscreens. Foam cleansers tend to be more drying than gel cleansers, making them more suitable for combination, oily, or acne-prone skin. For dry or sensitive skin, make sure to get one that is free of sulfate, the ingredient that creates the foaming effect.

FOAM CLEANSERS

泡沫潔 面乳一開始 是乳霜 或凝 膠的質地,但與水混合 後,會產 生 綿密豐富的泡沫。它 非常適合用來去 除 彩 妝、油脂和難以卸除的防晒霜。泡沫潔面乳往往比凝膠 潔面乳更為乾爽,因此更適合混合性、油性或易長粉刺 的肌膚。對於乾燥或敏感的肌膚,請確保不要使用成分 含有硫酸鈉的潔面乳 ( 硫酸鹽是產生起泡效果的成分)。

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La Mer The Cleansing Oil ($95, cremedelamer.com)

OIL CLEANSERS

Oil cleansers are usually used to remove makeup, including water潔顏油 proof types, and they mostly serve as the first step in double-cleansing. After rinsing off the oil cleanser, make sure to use a regular deep-cleansing type to get rid of any residue. Oil cleansers are gentle and nourishing to the skin and are suitable for all skin types.

潔顏油通常用於卸妝,包括防水彩妝,主要作為雙 重清潔的第一步。沖洗掉卸妝油後,請務必使用日 常進行深層清潔的潔面乳,以去除任何殘留物。潔 顏油對肌膚溫和且滋養,適用於所有肌膚類型。

Balm cleansers are similar to oil cleansers, but with a rich balmlike consistency that simply melts 潔顏膏 on the skin. They are mainly used to remove makeup. Cleansing balms typically contain botanical extracts that are deeply moisturizing and nourishing. They are ideal for dry and normal skin, but they are too heavy for combination, oily, and acne-prone skin.

BALM CLEANSERS

EVE LOM Cleanser (balm) ($50–$225, evelom.com)

潔顏膏類似於卸妝油,但濃稠的膏狀質地也可在肌 膚上溶解,主要用於卸妝。潔顏膏通常含有植物萃 取,具有深層保溼和滋養的功效,非常適合乾性和 中性肌膚,而對於混合性、油性和易長痘痘的膚質 來說,該類洗卸產品就過於厚重了。

Clay cleansers purify your skin by drawing out excess oil and toxins from your pores. They are also 潔顏泥 known for their detoxifying benefits. Clay cleansers are often used as the second step of a double-cleansing routine, as they are not very good at removing makeup. They are suitable for combination, oily, and acne-prone skin, as they can be too drying for dry skin.

CLAY CLEANSERS

潔顏泥通過從毛孔中抽出多餘油脂和毒素,來淨化您 的肌膚,以其排毒功效而聞名。潔顏泥通常作為雙重 清潔程序的第二步,因為它並不具備卸妝所需的清潔 力。洗顏泥適合混合性、油性和易長痘痘的膚質,而對 於乾性膚質來說,可能就過於乾燥了。 │23


MICELLAR CLEANSERS

Micellar water features tiny micelles—oil molecules—that act as a 潔顏水 magnet to lift dirt, oil, and makeup from your skin. They are usually applied with cotton pads and don’t need rinsing. Micellar waters are one of the lightest forms of facial cleansing. They are mostly used to remove makeup rather than deep cleansing, so you might want to use a second cleanser after this one. They are free of soap, oil, and alcohol and can be used on your face, eyes, and lips. Micellar waters are ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. 該類洗 卸產品英文名為「Micellar water」,直譯作膠 束水。它具有微小的膠粒( 油分子),可以像磁鐵一樣 吸走皮膚上的汙垢、油脂和彩妝,只需用化妝棉擦拭即 可,無需用清水沖洗。膠束水是最輕盈的面部清潔方式 Lancôme - Eau Fraiche Douceur Micellar Cleansing Water ($40–$62, lancome.com)

之一,主要用於卸妝而不是深層清潔,因此您可能需要 在此之後使用第二種潔面乳。該洗卸產品不含皂、油和 酒精成分,可用於面部、眼睛和嘴唇,適用於所有類型 的膚質,包括敏感肌膚。

POWDER CLEANSERS

Powder cleansers come in a powder form that turns creamy or foamy 潔顏粉 upon contact with water, thoroughly cleansing your skin while providing gentle exfoliation. Common ingredients found in powder cleansers are enzymes, making these powder cleansers work like exfoliators, sweeping off impurities and dirt inside clogged pores. Some powder cleansers are suitable for all skin types, whereas others are recommended for combination, oily, and congested skin.

潔顏粉呈粉末狀,接觸水後會變成豐盈綿密的泡沫,可 深層清潔肌膚,同時溫和去除角質。洗顏粉中的常見成 分酵素,能像去角質劑一樣發揮作用,清除堵塞毛孔的 Tatcha - The Rice Polish – Classic ($65, tatcha.com)

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雜質和汙垢。此類潔顏品中,有些適用於所有膚質,而 有些則特別適用於混合性、油性和酒糟性肌膚。


BAR CLEANSERS

Regular soaps can be harsh for the skin, but the new breed of solid 潔面皂 cleansing bars tend to be formulated without the harsh ingredients of regular soaps. They also offer skin-friendly pH levels and nutrient-rich, moisturizing ingredients, such as essential oils and glycerin. They are perfect for removing makeup and cleansing the skin, and there are cleansing-bar options for all skin types.

Sisley Paris Soapless Facial Cleansing Bar ($72, sisley-paris.com)

普通 肥皂可能會 對皮膚有刺激性,但新型潔 面皂的配 方,往往不含有普通肥皂的刺激性成分。潔面皂有親膚 的pH 值和滋養、保溼成分,如精油和甘油。潔面皂非 常適合卸妝和清潔皮膚,並且有適用於所有肌膚類型的 選項。

CLEANSING TOWELETTES AND WIPES

Cleansing towelettes and wipes are perfect for times when you need a quick superficial makeup-removal or 卸妝溼巾 cleansing for on-the-go or lazy days. You simply wipe your face with a towelette to remove all makeup and impurities, with no need to rinse. They lack the ability to deep cleanse, so make sure to follow up with a face wash when you can. They are typically suitable for all skin types. 卸妝溼巾是需要快速卸妝或清潔時的好選擇,例如在旅 途期間或慵懶的日子裡。您只需用卸妝溼巾擦拭臉部, 即可去除所有彩妝和雜質,無需沖洗。但卸妝溼巾沒有 深層清潔的功效,因此在條件允許的情況下,還是要進 行第二步的清潔。卸妝溼巾通常適用於所有肌膚類型。

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ELITE BEAUTY

NEW LAUNCHES 夏季新品推薦 By Pia-Maria Norris

Lumene - Nordic-C Fresh Glow Brightening Gel Mask Packed with natural, glow-boosting ingredients, including natural AHA peeling acids from Wild Arctic cloudberry vinegar, this brightening face mask exfoliates and instantly re-energizes tired and dull skin. ($24.99, target.com)

Wander Beauty - Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate Packed with a powerful combination of antioxidants that help brighten, plump, and rejuvenate skin. The formula has a subtle golden pearl that provides a beautiful luminosity to the skin. ($42, wanderbeauty.com)

The Suki Era Collection Suki Skincare’s new Suki Era Collection is a perimenopausal and menopausal natural skin care line developed to address skin care issues for women 45+, targeting skin hydration, texture, radiance, evenness, fine lines, and wrinkles. SUKI ERA Reviving Face Cream ($69) : Provides intense hydration and visibly improves elasticity, fine lines, and luminosity.

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SUKI ERA Reviving Cooling Spray ($40): Cools, replenishes, and provides added moisture to the skin—especially during a hot flash. SUKI ERA Facial Oil ($45): Restores dull, dry, and depleted skin while providing added anti-aging benefits. (sukiskincare.com)


Lovesong Beauty - Invisible Dry Shampoo Gel Composed of natural ingredients, this innovative, first-ever dry shampoo gel refreshes the hair and delivers key nutrients for a healthier scalp and hair with no powdery residue. ($36, lovesongbeauty.com)

Lovesong Beauty - Weightless LeaveIn Conditioner Loaded with natural ingredients, this lightweight and non-greasy, leave-in conditioner hydrates, nourishes, and smooths your hair for optimal hair health. ($36, lovesongbeauty.com)

Sisley Paris - Black Rose Body Emulsion This ultra-hydrating emulsion nourishes, softens, and soothes while enhancing the skin's suppleness and radiance. ($180, sisley-paris.com)

Hair Rituel by Sisley Paris - La Creme 230 Activated by heat, this no-rinse hair care cream restores, nourishes, and detangles hair while protecting hair fibers from heatstyling tools up to 450 F. It can be used as a styling or smoothing hair care cream or as a leave-in conditioner. ($100, sisley-paris.com)

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LATHER - The Daily Defense Mineral SPF 50

Mad Hippie - Ultra-Sheer Body SPF

This sheer, tinted, 100 percent mineral zinc-based daily facial sunscreen has a non-greasy and light texture that glides on smoothly with a matte finish. Perfect for under your makeup.

With 80-minute-water resistance, this nourishing and light formula offers UVA/UVB broad-spectrum mineral, zinc-based protection for the body. ($18.99, madhippie.com)

($32, lather.com)

TIZO - Eye Renewal Sunscreen SPF 20

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Mad Hippie - Hydrating Facial SPF25+

This mineral sunscreen de-puffs and improves the look around the delicate eye area while protecting from damaging sun rays with zinc oxide.

Loaded with hydrating and nourishing ingredients, this protective lotion provides UVA/UVB broadspectrum mineral, zinc-based protection to keep your face protected, hydrated, and healthy.

($41.99, tizoskin.com)

($24.99, madhippie.com)

Mad Hippie - Sheer Mineral Sun Spray SPF 25

Mad Hippie - Daily Protective Serum SPF30+

This zinc-based sunscreen spray rubs in clear and includes antioxidants to keep your skin safe from oxidative stress.

This daily protective serum hydrates, nourishes, and provides UVA/UVB broad-spectrum mineral zincbased sun protection.

($19.99, madhippie.com)

($22.99, madhippie.com)


ELITE CULTURE

THE JULY BIRTHSTONE Rubies: Treasured for Their Rarity and Inner Fire 如焰般的克拉世界——認識七月誕生石 English by Angela Feng | Chinese by Cora Wang

For centuries, Burma, also known as Myanmar, has been renowned for producing the world’s highest-quality rubies, with more than 80 percent of the world’s stones originating there. Rubies display exceptional color in almost all lighting conditions, as demonstrated in the image. Ye Aung Thu/AFP via Getty Images

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T

he ruby, often referred to as the king of precious stones, is the birthstone for those born in July. Its name comes from the word “ruben,” which is Latin for the gem’s bold red hue. For hundreds of years, it has been regarded as one of the most valuable gemstones, representing love, passion and power. Since the beginning of civilization, rubies have been prized by kings and queens and were sought after by royals and aristocrats more than any other gemstone. Persian scholar al-Biruni once wrote that rubies merit “the first place in color, beauty, and rank” among all gems. REVERED IN ANCIENT TIMES The ruby’s fascinating and storied history can be traced all the way back to ancient religious texts. In the Bible, the stone is mentioned four times and is often associated with qualities like beauty and wisdom. The Book of Exodus describes the breastplate of Aaron, a sacred

佛家認為:一粒沙子裡含有三千大千世界。那您是否想 過,那一顆顆堅硬的寶石裡,藏有什麼樣的風景? 素有「 寶石之王 」 (Ratnaraj)之譽的紅寶石,鮮紅 的外表讓人雙目垂涎。它在光線無法觸及的礦床中,歷 經億萬年結晶而成美麗的型態,最終從地底下被淘出, 在接觸地上的自然光後,透出飽和的熒光,折射出神祕 的星光,細察其內,還蘊含著不可思議、獨一無二的內含 物,這於世間閃耀的微型礦物,究竟帶來了什麼訊息? 聖石意志 人們對紅寶石超自然力量的信仰,可追溯至古代的宗教 典籍。根據《舊約聖經》中的《出埃及記》記載,神( 此 指耶和華 )要求摩西製作祭司的聖衣。唯有身著聖衣 的祭司,才能進入聖所進行敬拜、祭祀等儀式。當時被 神指派為大祭司的是亞倫,即摩西的兄長。那件奉神之 命而製作的聖衣名叫「 以弗得 」 (ephod)。文獻中詳 細記錄了製作方法,並且需搭配一件同樣為巧匠手工 製作的胸牌,其中還得在金槽鑲上12顆寶石,共分為四 橫排,第一排就是由紅寶石、黃玉、以及祖母綠組成。

The Angel Appearing to Zacharias (1799–1800) by William Blake. This scene depicts verses from Luke 1:11-13, in which an angel appears before Zacharias, a high priest of the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem. He is wearing the Breastplate of Aaron, which is adorned with 12 gemstones, including the ruby. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art │31


garment worn by the high priest of the Israelites. It was used to communicate with God, and contained 12 gemstones that inspired the modern-day birthstones. While the exact gems featured are debated, the first stone was referred to as “odem”—meaning red—which many believe to have been the ruby. In ancient times, people believed that rubies held the power of life, due to their similarity in color to the blood that flows through our veins. Their blood-like hue led people to think that rubies had healing and life-sustaining qualities. The stone was often used in medicine, as many claimed rubies and other red gems could stop bleeding and inflammation. The stone was valued for its protective powers. In China, noblemen would adorn their armor with rubies, as they believed the gems would shield them from harm. The ancient Burmese regarded it as the stone of soldiers, granting them strength and protection in battle. They would insert rubies into their flesh to obtain immunity against attacks.

Pair of ruby ​​and brilliant bracelets for the Duchess of Angoulême (1814-1830) by Jacques-Evrard Bapst. The stunning bracelets are made from 24 oval rubies surrounded by 356 round brilliants. The sparkling white diamonds further enhance the vibrancy of the scarlet rubies. Courtesy of the Musée du Louvre / Daniel Arnaudet

此外,這些寶石必須分別刻上以色列12支派之名,彷彿 把以色列的子民戴在胸前,仰望著神,引領他們走出困 境。自此這些光彩耀眼的寶石,也成了與上天溝通的聖 物。歷來人們也一直相信,只有最精美的寶石,配上最 純正的黃金,才能發出強大的能量來敬奉神祇。 在印度宗教文化裡以及古老的梵文文學著作中,就 有記載一棵名為「Kalpavriksha」的神聖之樹。關於這棵 樹,有個夢幻的傳說。印度音樂學家 Sourindro Mohun Tagore 所著的《Mani Mala》一書記載,這棵樹是由各種 珍貴的寶石組成,包括鑽石、藍寶石、黃玉,祖母綠, 以及其他寶石,而它所結成的果實,就是紅寶石。而在 印度的珠寶文化中,紅寶石同樣擁有非凡的地位。 石之庇佑 關於紅寶石的寓意有諸多說法,或許與它本身的特質有 關。它的堅毅帶來信心、珍稀程度相應著權位的高貴, 它的色澤激發著人們心中的熱情,進而象徵熱烈的愛 情。在中世紀的歐洲,許多貴族身上佩戴紅寶石,盼能 獲得財富、智慧及愛情。在英國傳統婚姻文化中,四十 年的婚姻,稱作「 紅寶石婚 」,許多夫婦會以紅寶石作為 四十週年的定情信物。 在印度民間,人們相信紅寶石會帶來和平,免於征 戰。而當人夢見紅寶石,這代表幸福與財富即將降臨。 在西元 8 世紀,阿拉伯書籍曾記載一個說法:當國王夢 見紅寶石皇冠,代表他即將獲得權力,打敗其對手;農 民夢見寶石,則表示會大豐收;商人夢見則會生意興隆。 種種跡象都一再強調:紅寶石能捎來好運。

Mirror Frame with Tree of Life Motif (1601–1800), India. This ancient mirror, designed for the Mughal court, depicts a tree of life with inlaid gold stems and leaves and buds of rubies, diamonds, and emeralds. The motif was the same as the legend in India’s religious culture—the divine tree called “Kalpavriksha.” Courtesy of the Art Institute of Chicago

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人們普遍相信寶石擁有特殊的能量,而紅寶石那鮮 紅的色澤恰似人體內奔流的血液,讓人深信其治癒與延 續生命的能力,進而象徵生命之泉源。根據史料,早在 西元前 200 年,在中國北方絲綢之路上,就有紅寶石的 交易記錄。據說,當時中國貴族會在盔甲以及刀鞘上, 鑲上紅寶石,求其護佑之效。而在古代的緬甸也有相似


Rubies were also sought after as a symbol of luck, harmony, and prosperity. In medieval Europe, many nobles wore rubies to gain health, wisdom, and romantic success. People in India believed that rubies could help them live in peace with their enemies. It’s said that dreaming about rubies is a sign that great happiness and fortune are coming your way. In an eighth-century Arabic book on dreams, the author, Achametis, claims that a king who dreams about a crown of rubies will soon gain power over his enemies. For farmers and tradesmen, dreaming about rubies could signify a good harvest or success in business. A RARE GEM Most people know rubies for their striking red color, but they can actually be found in a wide range of shades—from light pink to deep burgundy. Slight differences in color can make a huge difference in the value of the stone. Bright red stones typically command the highest prices, with the most coveted shade being a pure, vibrant red with a hint of blue.

A young noblewoman in décolleté white dress with frilled sleeves (1797–1820) by Moritz Michael Daffinger. The woman in this painting wears a full set of ruby jewelry, including a crown, earrings, and necklace. Public domain

的傳說。西元 600 年左右,緬甸就作為出產紅寶的大宗 之國。緬甸人認為,紅寶石為「 將士之石 」,擁有超常 的防護力,因此有些人會在身上割開一小口,放入紅寶 石,並相信如此便能刀槍不入。時至今日,仍能耳聞礦 物療法,紅寶石則作為修補人體心脈運行不順的機制。 「 礦 」世珍寶 從古老的巴比倫文明開始,走過漫長的中世紀,紅寶石在 西方文明史中,一直受到皇室、王公貴族的追捧,如今 那些被賦予歷史價值的紅寶石,成了博物館裡供人瞻仰的 藏品,而品質極佳的紅寶石,被打磨成價值連城的珠寶, 件件皆非常人所能觸及的尋常之物。天然紅寶石在地球上 所存在的數量稀少,比起其他有色寶石更為珍罕,歷史上 著名的波斯學者 al-Biruni 曾說紅寶石的「 色彩、美態與 等級皆無石能出其右 」。此外,並非所有的紅色寶石, 都能稱作「 紅寶石 」。儘管在歷史上有許多著名的古蹟文 物、文獻中,多有關於紅寶石的記載,但其實質卻非真正 的紅寶石,因為英文「Ruby」一詞的字源義,僅表示紅色 的寶石。其稀少程度,可能遠超我們想像。 The Imperial State Crown 1937

例如英國古老的「 黑太子紅寶石 」(Black Prince's

What is known as the Black Prince’s Ruby decorates the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom; however, the gem is actually a red spinel.

Crown)上,這顆重達 170 克拉的「 紅寶石 」,其實是

Courtesy of The Royal Collection

一顆紅色尖晶石。過去幾個世紀,有許多著名的皇冠上

Ruby),現在鑲嵌在英國帝國皇冠( Imperial State

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Rubies are one of the rarest gemstones in the world, and among colored stones, demand the most exorbitant prices. Quality natural rubies of more than 1 carat are hard to come by, making them extremely valuable. For centuries, Burma (also known as Myanmar) has been the source for the highest-quality stones. Rubies from that area typically command the highest prices, as they have the much desired “pigeon blood” red hue. The Mogok Stone Tract in Upper Burma has been the go-to source for the finest rubies for hundreds of years, as the gems found there hold exceptional color in almost all lighting conditions. In the past, various red stones have been mistaken for rubies, further indicating the stone’s rarity. Many ancient relics and artifacts believed to have contained rubies have since been proven to actually be other gems. One of the most famous examples is the Black Prince’s Ruby, which decorates the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom. What was previously thought to be a 170-carat ruby was found to be a red spinel. ENDURING LOVE The bold red hue of the ruby radiates passion and sophistication, making ruby jewelry perfect statement

pieces. Whether worn in the form of a ring, necklace, earrings, or bracelet, the gemstone adds a bold yet timeless touch to every outfit. Rubies also make a great gift for your partner— there’s no better stone to express your love and devotion. It’s traditionally known as the 40th-anniversary gem, as the stone’s internal fire represents the inner flame and strength that hold a marriage together for four decades. If you’re searching for something special for the love of your life, then look no further than the ruby. Even today, people are drawn to rubies for their spiritual properties. It’s believed that the gem’s fiery energy can bring warmth and energy to one’s aura, as well as increase spiritual wisdom and inner strength. However, it’s important to keep a clear mind and avoid negative emotions. The ruby is such a rare stone that it can trigger feelings of greed, arrogance, and vanity, overshadowing the stone’s energy. Only by maintaining a good heart and positive outlook can one reap the benefits of this remarkable jewel.

的大顆紅色寶石都是尖晶石。除卻這些文物的歷史價 值,與紅寶石同等質量的紅色尖晶石,價格僅為其十分 之一,素來作為紅寶石的替代品。 當今世上,一克拉的天然紅寶就極難取得,價格更 是隨遞加的克拉數而翻倍增長。大多數人對紅寶石的印象 就是它那亮眼的紅,其實它所折射出的光彩更是一大看 頭。從淺粉到橙紫以至暗紅色,些微的色澤差異,就會 大大地影響其市場價格。 世上最著名的紅寶石產地仍屬緬甸莫谷。數百年 來,該地出產的紅寶石多為世界公認的高品質,而擁有 「 鴿血紅 」的紅寶石更為上品,深邃的紅為寶石主色,定 睛觀察能見紫色或粉色之紅,有些還略帶一絲的藍,散 發柔和的紅色熒光。能被國際寶石鑑定組織判定為「 鴿 血紅 」的寶石,必須通過相當嚴謹的篩選條件,倘若能 在鑑定書上看見「 鴿血紅 」一詞,價格往往水漲船高。 價格或許可以估量,但我們又要如何界定這一顆顆 紅寶石的價值呢?那藏在鏗鏘石下的焰火,數千年來炙 熱著人們的心,它不僅是世間至美的天然礦物,還蘊含 著濃烈的生命情感。不過,在這數千名的文明之中,也 不盡然只有正面效應。正因它如此珍異,當人們的私心

This magnificent ruby-and-diamond ring belonged to actress Elizabeth Taylor and was auctioned off in December 2011 for more than $4 million. It was given to her by actor Richard Burton, who promised her, “One day I’m going to find you the most perfect ruby in the world.” Justin Tallis/AFP via Getty Images

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貪慾迷惑了心志,這原本蘊含靈光的寶石,也將變得晦 暗,帶來的負面效果可想而知。誠如我們相信寶石的力 量,它有靈性,能感知天地,甚至能傳遞訊息,唯有保 持一顆良善的心,才能將這充滿靈性且能召來好運的正 面信息傳遞下去。


ELITE CULTURE

THE SPIRIT OF JADE Its Sacred and Noble Status in Chinese Culture 千年磨礪 溫潤有方──東方的人玉情懷 Chinese by Ann Lin | Translated by Anne Scott Pictures courtesy of the National Palace Museum

清 碧玉瑗 This large jade ring from the Qing Dynasty exemplifies the original style that influenced Chinese jewelry like jade bracelets for many years to come.

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J

ade is a beautiful stone that suggests water-like fluidity and kindness. Beyond its delicate yet firm texture, it embodies thousands of years of Chinese culture. One can get a sense of Chinese people’s long-lasting admiration for the luster and brilliance of jade through children’s names, poetry, literature, and paintings. A TALE OF JADE FROM THE NEOLITHIC In Chinese legend, Gong Gong, the lord of water, was defeated in an epic battle with Zhu Rong, the lord of fire. Feeling disgraced and furious, Gong Gong destroyed one of the pillars maintaining balance and stability in the universe. The ramshackle earth collapsed, with chaos and disasters sending humans into endless misery. Nuwa, the mother of all humans, was saddened by this tragedy. She fused together five-colored stones to patch up the hole in the sky and rescued mankind. The remainder of the stones were scattered abroad into all kinds of jade. This is the origin of jade’s sacred and noble status in Chinese culture. The finest-quality jadeite can endure extreme heat, pressure, and erosion. Its strength, personified as fortitude, was recognized by our ancestors in the Neolithic Age. In ancient China, people regarded jade as a medium of communication with the divine and an embodiment of virtue, including truthfulness, purity, propriety, and benevolence. In traditional Chinese culture, people use jade to describe men with noble character. Jade is firm and

玉,是一種石頭,卻溫潤如水。撫觸時,質感堅硬細 膩,凝視其中,流轉的不只是其柔美盈潤的紋理光澤, 更是超越了千年的中華文化。 中華民 族 愛 玉 至深 至 誠、至 迷 至 癡。從古至今, 千千萬萬個華人孩子以玉為名,從出生起便以玉為載體, 行過一生。多少詩詞歌賦、繪畫文學,寄託了人們對玉石 的信仰和深邃的情感。 淵遠流長 緣起性靈 在遙遠的洪荒時代,水神共工與火神祝融交戰,共工被 祝融打敗後惱羞成怒,一氣之下撞斷了支撐天地的不周 山,霎時天柱傾塌,九州崩裂,天河之水注入人間,洪 水汪洋不息,民不聊生。創世造人的女神女媧,不忍人 類受苦,便煉製了五色石以補蒼天,挽救了眾生。這是 眾多古籍中記載的「 女媧補天 」神話故事。玉石能作為 上古神話中的補天之物,可見其神聖性,這段古老的神 話,亦承載了神州數千年來對玉石的信仰。 上美的玉,面對高溫高壓、風沙淘洗而不殞,經得 住粉身碎骨的考驗,是在歷劫的剎那,凝固而成的一縷 精魄。遠在八千年前的新石器時代,先民們便已認識了 這塊具有靈性、美而不朽的石頭,將其作為與神溝通的 媒介、中華文化的精神載體。後來,人們更以玉品人, 比之德性,將玉石視為天地間一切事物中堅貞、純潔、 美好、高尚的象徵。 「 君子如玉 」,寫古人嚮往擁有玉石般的堅韌、內 斂,縱使被汙濁遮蔽、石皮隱藏,也能在粗糙中綻放瑩 潤的光芒;在經過一番艱苦的切磋琢磨,能蛻變成如玉 般潔淨溫潤、品德高尚的君子。這樣人玉合一的期盼, 使人們想方設法將頑石琢磨成一只只精緻靈巧的玉飾, 試圖在人身上展現玉的精神,最終達到「 人為玉存,玉 為人魂 」的境界。 琢玉成器 綿延情意 在所有玉飾中,玉鐲最是簡潔質樸。它沒有寶石的耀 眼,沒有華麗的工藝設計,卻深受人們喜愛。也因其造 型簡單,對原始玉料就更為講究,幾乎是每個買石人, 切割原石後,製作飾品的首要選擇。 當玉匠們拿到一塊上好的玉石片板,首要之務便是 根據玉料上裂綹的走勢避開瑕疵,並以顏色的分布,評 估該取何尺寸的手鐲,以達到最好的色塊分布。待取下手 鐲後,其剩餘的邊角料才拿來製作其他飾品,只因製作 手鐲最是耗料,以一塊十幾公斤的玉料來說,切開後去 掉各種瑕疵,可以做出十幾個把件、幾十個掛件,卻難以 作出兩只鐲子,由此可見手鐲是非常難得的玉飾。

It takes more than 60 million years for Fei Cui to form. The finest Fei Cui is found only in northern Myanmar, where the environment is harsh, and mining can only take place during a limited period of time.

以致契闊?繞腕雙跳脫 」,古老的樂府《定情詩》就告訴

Shutterstock

就用我手上的這對手鐲吧!「 跳脫 」即手鐲,在古代,

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古來,玉鐲便有作為餽贈大禮和盟誓信物之用。「 何 我們:能用什麼作為我們之間生死與共的定情信物呢?


唐 莫高窟第112窟《藥師經變》局部 Part of Buddha of Medicine Bhaishajyaguru (Yaoshi Fo), by unknown artist, A.D. 762–827, Mid-Tang Dynasty. This part of the wall painting is from the Mogao Caves, also known as Caves of the Thousand Buddhas, cave 112. The Buddhas all wear traditional ornaments made of gold, silver, and jade around their necks. Public Domain

composed; it can even gleam through dirt and dust. Its purity and virtues can be revealed through carving and polishing.

女子把手鐲摘下,贈予伊人,便有此生和你生死相隨、 不離不棄的深情重託。 中國素來有「 無鐲不成婚 」的習俗,玉鐲常作為傳 家之物,女性長輩會將自己當年的嫁妝傳給兒女、子媳,

JADE JEWELRY IN MARRIAGES A jade bracelet is the simplest and purest type of jade jewelry—free of diamond decorations and dazzling

成為家族親情的延續,傳承了祝福和祈盼,以至整個家 族恪守的精神。玉鐲作為一個傳遞情感、精神的媒介, 始終在腕上守護著被傳承者。 │37


清 白玉絞絲紋鐲

清 三彩翡翠玉鐲

This rope-shaped bracelet is made of Hetian white jade and is currently preserved in Taiwan’s National Palace Museum.

Jadeite bracelet, Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). Though Fei Cui jade comes in several colors, it is extremely rare to find three colors present in a single piece. This stunning tri-colored jade bracelet symbolizes blessings, fortunes, and longevity.

designs. However, its simplicity demands finer raw materials. In the jade industry, bracelets are the most valuable items, ranking above all other pieces. When craftsmen see a new piece of jade, they first inspect the cracks and colors in the rock. Then they can decide the size of the bracelet. Finally, the remainder of the rock can be used for other jewelry. Jade weighing 10 kilograms can be made into dozens of jade pendants, but such an amount can hardly be made into two bracelets. Hence, jade bracelets are rare pieces. Jade bracelets were precious gifts and keepsakes in ancient China. Lines from an ancient Chinese poem indicate that jade bracelets symbolize everlasting love and commitment: “How shall we endure parting? The jade bracelets circling our wrists.” Jade bracelets were a common family heirloom and dowry. Mothers gave the bracelets to their daughters or daughters-in-law for good fortune and blessings. Though the custom has faded over time, jade bracelets are still a highly valued gift.

人玉相依 性靈相契 時過境遷,手鐲作為信物的寓意已漸趨淡薄,但仍然是 女性手腕間最美的一道風景線。它時時摩娑著肌膚,聆 聽著腕上的聲聲脈動。戴玉的人,氣質總是如玉般的溫 婉。華人尤其喜愛溫潤勻淨的和闐玉和光彩灼灼的翡翠。 和闐玉是軟玉的一種,素來有「 中國玉 」之稱。其 玉質渾厚圓潤,猶如凝脂。其中,羊脂白玉的籽料最為 珍罕,它洗鍊自風化崩蝕後的岩塊,再經千萬年的冰雪、 山洪沖刷磨蝕,是最堅硬而細膩的石之精粹。人們不僅 喜愛和闐玉的瑰麗,更欣賞它歷盡歲月淘洗,從頑石蛻 變為美玉的深厚內蘊。「 細潤盈潔、剛中見柔 」不僅形容 的那一塊塊白玉,也進一步道出佩戴此鐲的女子,在那 婉約的氣質中透出的堅毅風骨。 屬於硬玉的翡翠,因其同時擁有玉石之美與寶石之 豔的特質,在中國超過千年的玉石文化中,出現僅三百 年,便坐擁「 玉中之王 」的頭銜。正如其名,它鮮豔的 翡紅與翠綠,就像翡翠鳥的羽色,光彩奪目。翡翠玉質 細膩堅實,通透水潤,色彩絢麗——白、綠、紅、紫、橙、 黃、褐、黑,具現不同的美感與個性,即使為相同色調, 濃淡變化間風情各異。 其中,純正且通透的翠綠,最為珍罕稀有,遂成翡

JADE’S QUALITIES EMBODY HUMAN VIRTUE Nowadays, though jade bracelets are rarely used as a token of love, they are still popular jewelry pieces 38│

翠中最關鍵的寶色。它飽含著能量,具有希望的含意,是 所有愛玉人士所嚮往。上等的翠色,轉動間蒼翠欲滴,如 一抹流淌的清水,色澤渾厚莊重,正而不邪,體清無雜,


清 翠玉鐲 These emerald-green bracelets were made from the same piece of Fei Cui jade. As a pair, they represent faithful love and remind us that good things come in pairs.

among women for their soothing texture and brilliance. It is believed that a person who wears jade jewelry is gentle and elegant. Among Chinese people, Hetian Jade and Fei Cui are two of the most widely appreciated types. Hetian Jade is soft yet dense. Of this type, mutton fat jade is the most valuable kind. It is found in small quarries that have been eroded by rivers f lowing from mountains for thousands of years. Its purity, beauty, and endurance against erosion are celebrated. Women who wear mutton-fat jade jewelry are believed to have jade-like gentleness and endurance. Fei Cui (jadeite), the king of jade, has the beauty of both jade and diamond stones. Its namesake bird has either flamboyant red feathers or emerald-green feathers. Fei Cui varies in thickness, intensity, evenness, and color. Its colors include white, green, red, purple, orange, yellow, brown, and black and have come to represent diverse beauty and personalities. The pure and transparent green Fei Cui, or emperor green, is the most precious jade of all. It symbolizes energy, integrity, and hope. The empress dowager Cixi and Soong May-ling, first lady of the Republic of China, all owned valuable jade bracelets.

One’s choice of jade can be an indication of one’s personality. As the old saying goes, jade is both soft and firm, subtle and eye-catching. Since the size cannot be adjusted once made into a bracelet, the customer does not get to select the bracelet. Instead, it is the jade bracelet that chooses its owner. Chinese people believe that jade jewelry is refined by wearing it, and it can in turn refine the wearer. The divine rock can wash away the dust in the corners of one’s mind and bring tranquility. Its purity and simplicity do not fade with time, but bless one’s life with jade’s warmth and gentleness. 潤澤晶瑩,世人稱之為「 帝王綠 」。慈禧太后愛不釋手 的玉鐲、民國第一夫人蔣宋美齡絕世的翡翠麻花鐲,皆 展現其不凡的氣勢。 人如其玉,玉如其人。古人說,玉能柔能剛,能抑 能揚,能斂能彰。不同的玉性,亦能彰顯配戴者獨特的 氣質與性情,成鐲後,因其不能調整尺寸的特性,在玉 石市場上因而代代流傳著一說: 「 不是人找鐲子,而是鐲 子找人。」華人們始終相信,人養玉,玉亦滋人,這塊 具有靈性的石之精魄,能濾去生命中的災厄、安神養生。 在歲月相惜間,它沁著人們的生命氣息,愈發通透盈潤, 用那最純粹簡單的線條,祈求著平安圓滿,相伴此生。 │39


ELITE PEOPLE

CAPTURING ETERNITY Haute Joaillerie Designer Chia-Chun Chang 細繪生命熅火 ——專訪頂級珠寶設計師張嘉純 English by Angela Feng | Chinese by Ann Lin Pictures courtesy of Chia-Chun Chang

H

aute joaillerie, high jewelry, is cherished by royalty, aristocrats, celebrities, and members of the elite. Such jewelry pieces become precious heirlooms that families pass down for generations. They can also become cultural artifacts that are displayed in museums. Their value isn’t determined only by the quality and rarity of the gems, but is also ref lected in the exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship. While such pieces are widely appreciated, many forget to celebrate the mind and hands that crafted them. Meet Chia-Chun Chang, a top designer of haute joaillerie who has worked with some of the world’s most exclusive brands. She came to Europe from Taiwan more than 20 years ago, full of dreams, and has since become one of the most sought-after French jewelry designers. At home, she is a devoted wife and mother of two.

頂級珠寶(haute joaillerie),是王室貴族的定情信物、傳 家之寶,是政商名流爭相收藏的高級藝術品。它熨貼著體 溫,兀自閃耀,每一件首飾,都是世上唯一。它的珍稀不只 來自寶石的價值,更體現於精緻細膩的設計與一道道嚴謹 的工藝。一件件令人傾心的設計,出自誰人之手?在鎂光燈 無法照予光亮的地方,有著一雙雙苛求完美、打造永恆璀 璨的巧手。 其中一雙手的主人,是兩位孩子的母親,是二十多年前 懷揣著熱情與夢想,從臺灣來到歐洲追夢的學子——張嘉 純,一位資深的法國頂級珠寶設計師。 夢之彼方 成為頂級珠寶設計師,是張嘉純從一而終的夢想,但現實 中的挫折,仍讓她感嘆: 「 珠寶設計從來就不是一條很順遂 的路」。 1998 年畢業於英國皇家藝術學院後,她連日輾轉在 歐洲各個城市,參加金工珠寶創作聯展,但珠寶設計的工 作機會鮮少,生冷的現實,一次次讓她萌生放棄的念頭。然 而,她比誰都明白,珠寶設計是自己唯一的熱情所在。

PURSUING HER DREAMS It was Chang’s longtime goal to become a top haute joaillerie designer. However, her path hasn’t been easy and has been full of setbacks. “Jewelry design

40│

2001 年,張嘉純於巴黎的精品行銷學院畢業時,其畢 業論文獲獎,她戴上了自己設計的珠寶項圈,盛裝出席結業 式晚宴。宴會間,一位紳士盛讚其身著的珠寶,雖不知對方 來歷,但為了保握機遇,她匆忙撕下了演唱會傳單的一角,


Haute joaillerie designer Chia-Chun Chang has been in the industry for more than 20 years. Looking back on her journey of pursuing her dream career, she feels grateful for all the opportunities she’s encountered. Photography by Chang Chia Chen

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Chang treats every detail with painstaking attention, ensuring maximum accuracy. She always makes sure that her two-dimensional drawings will translate accurately into three-dimensional jewelry pieces.

has never been a smooth road,” she said in an interview with Elite Lifestyle Magazine. Chang attended the Royal College of Art in London, England, where she graduated from the Jewelry and Metal program. Afterward, she traveled around Europe, attending various metalworking and jewelry-design workshops. Unfortunately, job opportunities in jewelry design are scarce. Time and time again, she considered giving up; however, Chang persisted, as deep down she knew jewelry design was her biggest passion. Eventually, her determination paid off. In order to stay in France, Chang enrolled in the Institut Supérieur de Luxe in Paris. Her master’s thesis ended up winning an award, and she was invited to attend an exclusive graduation banquet. Just before leaving the banquet, Chang received a slip of paper that would change her life forever. Scribbled on a scrap torn from a concert f lier was the name

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留下對方的姓名與聯繫方式。孰料這一隅輕薄的紙角, 成了張嘉純踏入夢想世界的敲門磚——那是時任世界知 名珠寶品牌卡地亞的全球總裁的親筆字跡。至今,她仍 保留著這張字條,提醒著自己曾有過如此幸運的經歷。 往後十餘年的歲月,她先後任職於卡地亞與梵克雅 寶設計團隊,經手的客戶不外乎王室貴族與社會名流。 她伏案工作,一筆一畫的描繪每個珠寶細節,她力求完 美,在一比一的手繪設計稿上,每一顆精緻小巧的珠寶 鑽石,其切工和鑲嵌方式都有嚴格的要求。從構想到完 稿,都需花費近一個月的時間,才能完成設計圖。 在眾多的珠寶門類中,張嘉純唯獨情鍾頂級珠寶, 她說,頂級珠寶的定義不在於它的高價,而在於「 它匯 集了很多人的心血、很多人的巧思、很多的創意,所以它 才會是一件獨一無二的寶物。」這份獨一無二,也反映 在其構成的要素之上——那一顆顆閃耀的寶石。張嘉純 認為寶石如人,每一顆寶石都蘊含著獨特的內含物,那 些看似瑕疵的雜質,讓它因此而無可取代。她以欣賞的 眼光去看待每一顆與她相遇的寶石,並在其設計中,盡 所能地去發掘、延展那份絕無僅有的美,創造唯一。


and contact information of the CEO of Cartier, thus kick-starting Chang’s career. Over the next 10 years, Chang created designs for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. She has always been a perfectionist and treats every detail with painstaking attention. From conception to completion, each design sketch takes roughly one month to finish. Such a time-consuming job can make it difficult to balance one’s professional and personal life. After becoming pregnant with her first son, Chang was faced with a tough decision: to further her career or focus on her family. While her job brought her happiness, it didn’t compare to the fulfillment of motherhood. She decided to quit her full-time design position to raise her son, and switched to freelancing.

分岔路口 在國際知名的品牌麾下施展才華,圓了張嘉純昔日的夢 想,但她並沒有繼續追求更高的職涯發展機會,反而在 孩子出生後,辭去全職的設計工作。她依然熱愛珠寶設 計,但也不願錯過孩子僅有一次的成長時光。 「 有很多的方式,可以當一個好母親,最重要的是, 孩子們感受到來自母親的愛意嗎?」她說,在成為接案 設計師後,試圖在兩者間取得平衡,這是她珍惜自我與 其生活的方式。身為人母多年後,她才逐漸領會,何謂 「 有快樂的媽媽才有快樂的小孩 」——設計珠寶,使她 感到快樂;而生活,是她創作的靈感來源。 這麼多年來,承接大品牌的設計案,讓她見識了一 般人所未能窺見的頂級珠寶世界,但當她一次次在親手 繪製的設計圖上抹去姓名,她不禁在心中反問: 「 我不知 道我繼續再這樣替品牌隱姓埋名的做事是為了什麼,我 到底在哪裡?」她開始反思何謂創作,尋找自我的創作

A SENSE OF PURPOSE “My passion for jewelr y design comes from my mother’s love of jewelry. When creating designs, I’m often reminded of childhood memories,” Chang said. Growing up, she didn’t always have the closest relationship with her parents. But jewelry and f lowers became a common love through which Chang and her mother could bond. As a result, many of her designs are inspired by the beauty of flowers. Chang’s experiences as a mother have also inspired her work. “There are many qualities of a good mother,” Chang said. “One of the most important is whether your children can feel the love you have for them.” After being a mother for several years, she has gradually come to realize the truth of the saying that happy mothers make for happy children. Designing jewelry brings Chang joy, while her experiences and happiness in family life inspire her designs. Among the various types of jewelry design, Chang’s passion lies with haute joaillerie. According to her, such jewelry isn’t defined only by its rare materials or expensive cost, but rather by the collaborative efforts put into it. “What makes these pieces so special and unique is all the energy, creativity, and ingenuity that have been put into them,” Chang said. It’s impossible for a gem to be flawless—a characteristic she actually cherishes—and she tries her best to bring out the one-of-a-kind beauty of each stone. Over the years, working for major jewelry brands has given Chang invaluable industry experience and

價值,如今對此也有了更深一層的體悟。

Back when Chang worked for Van Cleef & Arpels, she was the chief designer for the ballet collection. She pioneered the use of pear-shaped diamonds to form an angel’s wings— a piece that was once displayed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

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helped her improve her skills. However, as her work couldn’t bear her name, she couldn’t help feeling a sense of loss. “I felt lost, living without my name attached to the work I’ve done,” she said. As she began to value her work more and ref lect on her creative purpose, she was able to gain a deeper understanding of jewelry design.

返樸之美 有愛的地方,就有珠寶——展示櫥窗中那高貴的珠寶, 看似 冰 冷,但在 張 嘉 純 眼中,卻 充滿 著人情 溫 度。她 說,每 一 件珠 寶,其實 都寓含著 客人深 厚 的 情感 與 心 意,與人生中的珍貴回憶有所連結。 從業 20 餘年來,她曾不解為何有些向她訂製珠寶 的貴客,躊躇於琳瑯滿目的設計風格中,最終卻選擇了 最普通的樣式。她傾聽著客人的故事,看著那一件件傳

BEAUTY IN SIMPLICITY Where there is love, there is jewelry. The jewelry pieces sitting in window displays may seem cold and distant in their grandeur, but in Chang’s eyes, they are full of emotion. To her, every piece of jewelry carries a connection with precious moments in life. Each custom-made piece of jewelry embodies the feelings and affections of both the designer and the wearer.

統而直白的設計,她逐漸明白—— 「 這在他們的記憶裡, 有它的溫度 」,那些人們覺得美麗的事物,承載著生命 裡最親密的回憶,就連她自己也是如此。 「 我想,自己對珠寶一直有種義無反顧的熱情,應 該是源自於我媽媽對珠寶的喜愛,以及兒時記憶中和母 親的連結。」相距半個地球,珠寶與花草一直都是母女 之間共通的話題,「 或許是因為如此,我很喜歡將花草 植物作為創作素材。似乎只要那些小花、小草化作珠寶, 那份溫暖的親情就能成為永恆璀燦的回憶,成為摸得到

When sketching her designs, Chang strives for perfection in every stroke, paying special attention to the details of jewelry inlays and the luster of the gems.


Chang’s main source of inspiration comes from her life experiences. The above design was inspired by a picture her friend sent her while on vacation. Struck by the beauty of the flowers, Chang reimagined them into a jewelry design draft.

Throughout her 20 years in the jewelry industry, Chang has wondered why some of her clients ended up choosing a simpler, more basic design, even after seeing a plethora of styles. However, after hearing them share their stories, she came to realize that people are most drawn to designs that they feel a connection with. Rather than choosing elaborate pieces to f launt their extravagance, people want pieces that remind them of the beautiful, intimate moments of life. One of Chang’s biggest inspirations is Ambaji Shinde, a legend in the jewelry-design industry. Chang was particularly moved after learning of a story from his final days in the hospital. Shinde lived a long and healthy life into his 80s, but was eventually hospitalized for pneumonia. One day, a nurse brought him his meal, and there was a piece of parsley on top. Looking at the parsley, Shinde exclaimed, “How beautiful it is!”

Chang was touched and inspired by Shinde’s ability to find beauty in the most ordinary things. Despite working with gleaming gemstones all day, Chang hopes to always remember to appreciate the beauty of the mundane as well. Through her designs, she strives to capture beautiful moments in everyday life and turn them into eternity. 的幸福。」儘管她從未擁有這些親手創作的珠寶,但它 們始終沾染著她生命的溫度,終將成為其存在的證明。 張嘉純非常欣賞一位珠寶界的傳奇人物——設計師 Ambaji Shinde。她細說著一段關於 Shinde 先生臨終 前的故事,「 那時他年紀大,有點虛弱,在醫院裡住著, 人家端著一個醫院的伙食過來,上面有一束香芹菜,然 後他就看著那一束香芹菜,說: 『 真是美麗啊!』這是自 然的傑作,這些葉子這樣真是美麗⋯⋯」感性而細膩的 她,期許自己畢生都能懷以謙遜的眼光,去欣賞生活周 遭一切習以為常的事物,並透過珠寶設計,替人們將那 些生活中容易遺漏的美好瞬間,鐫刻成永恆的印記。

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ELITE HEALTH

Let’s Talk With Dr. Hu

TIPS FOR ENJOYING A HEALTHIER SUMMER BARBECUE 烤肉配妙方 食肉輕盈無負擔 Chinese by Hu Naiwen|Translated by Minghui Wang

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ummer barbecue parties are a way to bond with friends and family while enjoying good company and good food together. However, too much savory barbecue sauce and a large amount of meat can lead to issues such as breaking out, bloating, edema, and constipation. Not only is barbecue meat high in both fat and sodium, but excess consumption can also slow gastrointestinal motility, causing indigestion and leading to constipation. How can we enjoy a barbecue while avoiding these problems?

夏日烤肉不僅充滿樂趣,各式美味的烤肉品也讓人垂涎 三尺,一不小心就會過量攝取,但隨之而來的卻是—— 臉上冒痘、水腫、腹脹、便祕等困擾。 烤肉有高油、高鹽等問題,吃太多肉類也容易減慢 腸胃蠕動的速度,造成消化困難、排便不順。烤肉時怎 麼吃、怎麼喝,才能不用擔心便祕或變胖? 啖肉記五招:遠離發胖與便祕 ( 一 )先吃蔬菜 烤肉前,先吃蔬菜增加飽足感。像花椰菜、甜椒、筊白 筍、菇類、絲瓜等,都是纖維含量豐富的蔬菜。比如,用

5 TIPS FOR REDUCING THE NEGATIVE HEALTH EFFECTS 1. Start with vegetables.

Before eating meat, satisfy your hunger with vegetables to avoid overeating. Foods like cauliflower, bell peppers, Manchurian wild rice, mushrooms, and loofah (a fruit of the gourd family) are all filling, fiber- rich vegetables. The recipe for "loofah oyster" is a good example and is easy to prepare. Simply wrap loofah and oysters together in aluminum foil and steam them. The roasted loofah is sweet, juicy, and delicious without seasoning.

鋁箔紙將絲瓜和牡蠣包起來,一同蒸烤成「 絲瓜牡蠣 」, 烤出來的絲瓜又甜又多汁,不需調味就已經很好吃了 。 ( 二 )生菜包肉片 用生菜( 萵苣 )或是小捲心菜來包肉片,代替土司夾肉 片,減少熱量的攝取。 ( 三 )咀嚼次數越多越好 吃烤肉時,要多咀嚼。日本裔知名腸胃科醫師新谷弘實 曾經說,吃食物的時候,最好能夠咀嚼30~50下。我想 一般人不容易做到,那就不妨多咀嚼,次數越多越好。 咀嚼的時候,唾液分泌會增加,新谷弘實認為,增加唾 液分泌,能改變腸胃某些荷爾蒙分泌,對於消化、減肥 都有所助益。

2. Wrap meat in vegetables.

Cut calories by wrapping slices of meat with lettuce or cabbage leaves instead of consuming bread or hamburger buns. 46│

( 四 )自製茶飲,取代含糖飲料 自製「 去油解膩茶 」來搭配烤肉,取代一般的含糖飲 料,減少身體的負擔。如何製作?取荷葉、山楂、烏梅、


Freepik

‘LET’S TALK WITH DR. HU,’ TRANSLATED AND EDITED FOR CLARITY WITH PERMISSION OF NTD TELEVISION.

3. Chew your way to better digestion.

Hiroshi Shinjiya, a well-known gastroenterologist in Japan, said that it's best to chew your food 30 to 50 times. Though most people aren’t used to chewing that much, it’s important to chew thoroughly. Chewing stimulates saliva production, which Shinjiya believes can help to secrete digestion-facilitating hormones in the stomach and intestines. You might even be able to lose some excess weight as a result.

陳皮各3~6g,用1,200c.c.的沸水煮15分鐘左右。荷葉可 以去油解膩,減少腸胃對脂肪的吸收。陳皮有理氣、消除 脹氣的功效。山楂能去肉食積、消脂,和烏梅在一起,又 可以增強此功效。 另外,還有一個處方叫作酸梅湯,裡頭就有山楂、 烏梅,也有去油脂的功效。食材包含:洛神花 9g、仙楂 9g、烏梅 40~60g、甘草 6g、冰糖約 100g 或適量, 搭配 5,000c.c. 的水,一同用小火熬煮 2 小時以上,最 後將食材撈起,濾出湯汁即可飲用。若圖方便,在這裡 的亞洲超市也可以買到罐裝的酸梅汁。

4. Revitalize with homemade tea.

To lighten the burden on your body, opt for a tea that helps eliminate grease and has less sugar than most tea recipes.

( 五 )自製烤肉醬 有些人吃完烤肉出現水腫,很可能因為烤肉醬鹽分太多。 不妨自製鹽度低的烤肉醬。用醬油或醬油膏當作基底,加 入少許蒜泥、薑片、辣椒段,再加一點點檸檬汁、柳丁

Ingredients: 0.13 to 0.26 ounce each of lotus leaf, hawthorn, smoked plum (wūméi), and dried tangerine peel. Directions: Boil all ingredients in 1.3 quarts of water for 15 minutes.

汁、蘋果泥,甚至少量番茄泥或番茄丁。調成鹹鹹甜甜、 稍帶點酸的烤肉醬,吃起來不易引起水腫。 特別提醒一下,烤肉時並非炭火越旺越好。因為火 燒得正旺時,會噴出許多的炭渣子等顆粒,這些大多都 含致癌成分。等到炭已經燒得紅通,沒有那麼大的火焰 了,這個時候放上烤物進行燒烤,才能比較安心下肚。 │47


Lotus leaves cleanse the grease off the palette and reduce the absorption of fat in the stomach, while tangerine peels reduce gas and bloating. Hawthorn boasts impressive fat-reducing effects, especially when consumed with smoked plum. The plum decoction is another great alternative to sugary soft drinks. Ingredients: 0.3 ounce roselle, 0.3 ounce hawthorn, 1 to 2 ounces smoked plum, 0.2 ounce licorice, and 3.5 ounces crystal sugar. Directions: Put all the ingredients in 5.3 quarts of water and boil on low heat for at least two hours. Strain out the liquid portion to serve.

內關穴 The Neiguan point

對症下「 穴 」 烤肉派對後輕鬆無負擔 內關穴

If you would like to save time, you can find this drink pre-made at most Asian supermarkets.

烤完肉吃的太油膩、過飽,這時可以按一個穴位減輕胃 脹,就是「 內關穴 」。該穴道位在:左右手腕橫紋向上 三橫指寬處,手腕兩筋之間。除了飽脹,胃部疼痛、嗝

5. Make your own barbecue sauce.

Some people experience edema after eating barbecue, likely due to the excess salt in the sauce. To avoid retaining f luids, try making your own lowsalt sauce. Using soy sauce as a base, add a small amount of mashed garlic along with slices of ginger and chili. Next, add some drops of lemon juice, orange juice, and applesauce. You can also add some tomato sauce or some diced tomato for more flavor. The end product is a sweet-and-savory sauce with a slightly sour taste—f lavorful but without lots of sodium. While the charcoal fire is on high heat, the smoke can bring potentially carcinogenic compounds from the charcoal to the meat, so wait for the fire to die down before placing your barbecue on the grill. You’ll be able to enjoy a healthier feast.

氣時,都可透過按壓內關穴來舒緩不適。 飽到想吐時,輕按內關穴,可以幫助食物從胃向下 進入十二指腸,繼續消化程序;若多按幾次則有催吐作 用。我自己就有過這個經驗,四十多年前,我剛學了穴 位針灸,有一天我吃得太多,肚子脹得很不舒服,就按 內關穴,吐掉一些東西,這時才舒服些。 天樞穴 以肚臍為中心,以逆時針方向稍微揉按,能夠促進腸胃 蠕動。在肚臍的上下左右各有幾個穴位,其中有一個穴 叫作「 天樞穴 」,就在肚臍左右旁開二寸的地方,它是大 腸經的募穴,常常揉按它,可以使排便順暢,或是改善 腹瀉的情況。( 募穴是指臟腑分布在身體前面的穴道,俞 穴則是臟腑分布在後面的穴道;所以一般稱「 背俞穴 」。 例如大腸經的募穴就是大腸在身體前面的穴道。) 內庭穴、足三里穴

PREVENT BLOATING WITH THESE ACUPOINTS

被油煙燻完、大呼過癮的烤肉派對後,臉上冒出了痘 子?這裡有兩個穴位可以幫你去痘。烤肉口味重,容易 引起胃火,使臉上的油脂分泌旺盛。如果一整個晚上都

The Neiguan Point

Did you have too much oily meat and feel overly full? You can press on the Neiguan acupoint to reduce stomach distention. The acupoint is located on the inner arm, three finger-widths up from the wrist. Pressing on the Neiguan point can relieve bloating, stomach pain, hiccups, and other stomach-related discomforts.

在烤肉,讓一旁油煙又燻又蒸,也會造成毛孔堵塞,炭 火也會使臉部溫度上升,種種因素相加,更易致痘。 位於左右足背上,第二、三趾間,趾蹼緣後方凹陷 處的「 內庭穴 」,是胃經的穴道,按壓刺激它可以清掉 胃裡的熱。另外,位於左右兩腳外膝眼直下四橫指寬處 的「 足三里穴 」,也是去胃熱、治痘的有效穴道。按壓 此 二 穴 位 15 � 20 次, 每 個 按 壓 5 � 15 分 鐘, 按 壓 的 力道「 稍帶痠感 」即可,不僅可以改善臉上擾人的痘痘 問題,還能幫助消化,一舉兩得!

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Top: 內庭穴 Inner Courtyard 天樞穴 Heaven's Pivot

Gently pressing on Neiguan helps the food move from the stomach to the duodenum, allowing its digestion process to continue. If you feel queasy due to digestive discomfort, performing acupressure on Neiguan a few more times can bring relief. I have personally tried this myself. It was more than 40 years ago, after I had just learned acupuncture. I ate too much one night and decided to press on Neiguan. Afterward, my stomach felt much more at ease.

IMAGES COURTESY OF BRGFX, FREEPIK, MACROVECTOR AND PCH.VECTOR (REDESIGN BY ELITE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE)

Heaven's Pivot

Massaging counterclockwise around the belly button can effectively promote peristalsis and thus facilitate the digestive process. There are acupoints on the four sides of the belly button, each located 2 inches from the belly button. Frequently massaging the area can help with constipation and diarrhea. Heaven’s Pivot (Tianshu), which is related to the large intestine, has an acupoint on each side of the belly button.

Right: 足三里穴 Leg Three Miles

and stimulating it clears the heat in the stomach. In addition, located about four horizontal finger-widths under the outer knees are the Zusanli points. They can also help clear stomach heat and thus reduce acne-prone factors. Pressing the two acupoints 15 to 20 times, each time for about 5 to 15 minutes, can reduce post-barbecue breakouts and also help digestion. Apply enough pressure to feel slightly sore. Please note: The above measuring units have been converted from grams to ounces. The ingredients mentioned in the dishes must be used proportionately. Some ingredients might have different effects on people with various physical conditions; please consult a medical or TCM professional. 備註:以上提及食譜之藥材、處方,皆需適量取用,有些藥材會因服 用者身體條件與素質產生不同效果,若有疑慮,請務必事先諮詢中醫 相關專業人士。

Inner Courtyard, Leg Three Miles

Did you have a blast at the barbecue party, but your skin started to misbehave afterward? Flavorful grilled meat can be very spicy and salty, which can lead to the accumulation of heat in the stomach, thereby stimulating excess oil secretion on the face. If you were around the burning grill for the entire evening, the smoke could also clog your pores. In addition, proximity to the fire can cause your facial temperature to rise. These combined effects can lead to a post-barbecue breakout. The Neiting point—the acupoint of the stomach meridian—is located on the back of the feet at the soft, hollow region between the second and third toes. Pressing

Original video of this article:

【About Dr. Hu】Currently a professor at Nine Star University of Health and Sciences in Sunnyvale, California, Dr. Hu Naiwen was previously a pharmacological researcher of Western medicine in Taiwan. He was also the instructor for traditional Chinese medicine clubs at numerous Taiwanese universities.

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ELITE HOME

Contemporary Living

With Breathtaking Oceanfront Views 坐擁蔚藍畫卷

A Carmel-by-the-Sea Residence 卡梅爾海濱住宅改建 打造心儀之居 English by Angela Feng | Chinese by Ada Tian Photography by Joe Fletcher

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C

armel-by-the-Sea, a small beach town on California’s Monterey Peninsula, is one of America’s most beautiful places to live. Despite being only 1 square mile, it offers residents both a European-style village and a white-sand island experience. With its fairytale-like cottages, bustling artistic scene, and stunning natural landscapes, there is no better place to grow up. The town sits adjacent to Carmel Bay, an idyllic retreat known for its peaceful beach and crystal blue waters. The homeowners purchased this 4,019-squarefoot home after falling in love with its spectacular views of the bay. The spaciousness of the residence also made it the perfect fit for their large family. NATURAL ELEGANCE The family wanted the home to have a feeling of casual comfort and to foster a stronger connection with the surrounding scenery. Mary Ann Schicketanz, founder and principal architect at Studio Schicketanz, led the renovation process. The original house was full of mismatched architectural elements, which presented a challenge for the designers. While it would have been easier to tear down the old structures and rebuild from scratch, Schicketanz wanted to avoid this approach, as her firm is committed to sustainability and waste-reduction.

位於北加州太平洋岸邊,距離舊金山約兩小時車程,有 一座充滿浪漫氣息、擁有地中海氣候,冬暖夏涼的濱海 小鎮——卡梅爾(Carmel-by-the-Sea)。因其有著濃 厚的文藝氛圍及美麗的海岸風光,被評為美國西部十個 最美的小鎮之一。 美如畫卷的迷人景觀 與小鎮相接的卡梅爾灣(Carmel Bay)亦頗負盛名, 青翠的松樹、白色的沙灘與蔚藍的海洋,在陽光的烘托 下,交織成一幅寧靜美好的畫卷。 本案的屋主和他的子女們,對自然美景有著極大的 熱情。當他們發現這裡絕佳的觀景條件後,決定購置並 改建原有的住宅。除了契合新家庭的使用習慣和需求外, 更是希望可以最大限度擁抱迷人的室外景觀,享受卡梅 爾灣海景。

A spacious patio with a fire pit is the perfect place for the family to watch the sunset and unwind after a long day.

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Top: The home comes with plenty of outdoor living spaces, furthering the connection between the house and nature. Right: In the living room, the warm, neutral palette creates a cozy, welcoming ambiance. Large floor-to-ceiling sliding doors provide an abundance of natural light.

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Top: In the patio adjoining the kitchen, woven chairs from Summit add a bohemian touch. Stunning views of the bay provide the perfect backdrop for a family meal. Bottom: The office has broad windows overlooking the ocean, allowing one to enjoy the stunning views while working.

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Left: The master bedroom embodies the client’s vision of casual comfort, with a variety of cream and off-white tones. Center: The master en suite has a similar neutral color scheme. Broad windows offer grand views of the surrounding greenery—a breathtaking sight to wake up to. Right: In one of the children’s bedrooms, the simple color scheme complements the rest of the home. However, funky details add touches of playfulness keep it lighthearted.

The team was able to successfully modernize and open up the home without making too many changes to the structure. In fact, Schicketanz managed to rebuild the entire ocean frontage without changing an inch of square footage. The biggest modification was the removal of the cone-shaped roofs, which had blocked much of the seascape from the second floor. This was replaced with a terraced green roof that overlooked the bay—a sophisticated and eco-friendly addition. Further adjustments were made to comfortably accommodate all of the owners’ children, including an additional bedroom and bathroom on the second floor. The dining and living rooms were rebuilt into square shapes that were more consistent with other elements of the house, and glazed openings were enlarged to maximize natural light and ocean views.

屋主委託了建築師 Mary Ann Schicketanz 為他們 量身打造這座海濱住宅。Studio Schicketanz 注重建築 的永續性,設計風格多以經典且舒適、優雅為主。而在這 座濱海住宅中,設計師用精采、細膩的設計呈出答卷。 以永續性為考量,建築師選擇盡可能保留原有建 築結構,僅拆除了遮擋二層觀景視線的屋頂,重建了面 向海濱一側的立面,以此與室外建立更多連繫。建築師 Schicketanz 描述該建案時表示, 「 拆除重建是最容易 的,但我們承諾堅持做到可持續發展和減少浪費,我們接 受挑戰,通過最小的干預將其變成更加宜居的住宅。」 在面向海景一側,建築師設置新的露臺和大面積開 啟的落地門窗,最大限度擁抱卡梅爾灣迷人的景致。室 外的木質遮陽格柵,在陽光強烈時為室內提供蔭涼,同 時也為改建後的住宅,創建了具有辨識度的新立面。 休閒舒適的居住氛圍 改建後的住宅,保留了原有的4,019 平方英尺,在秉承

CASUAL COMFORT The designer chose a soft, neutral color palette to create a pleasant and welcoming ambiance. This is reflected in the practical yet elegant white oak floors throughout the home. In the living room, the large tan sectional from Harbinger is accessorized with chic accent pillows by Marilet Pretorius Designs. A brightred decorative bowl sits on the dark oak coffee table, adding a lively pop of color. The kitchen is the owners’ favorite room. As a closeknit Italian family, their love involves sharing food 54│

減少浪費的原則下,重新規劃室內布局,以契合該家庭 的使用需求和偏好。 建築師 Schicketanz 在接受本刊採訪中表示, 「對 他們來說,最重要的是休閒與舒適,以及與這令人難以 置信的海景有更多的互動!在重新組織布局、選擇材料 和家具時,都沒忘記這一點。」 移除原有屋頂後,在原來的位置增設屋頂露臺,從 二樓主臥便可以俯瞰卡梅爾灣。在看不到海景的臥室外, 則設置充滿生機綠植的露臺。一樓的餐廳和客廳與室外 露臺相接,透過通透的落地門窗,盡攬如詩如畫的室外 景觀和變換的光影,與四季變幻帶來的不同氛圍。


Left: A custom Mugnaini pizza oven made from locally sourced stone is the highlight of the kitchen. As a close-knit Italian family, making pizza together is one of the clients’ favorite pastimes. Right: In the kitchen, gray oak cabinetry by Christopher Peacock and a marble sink by Hunt Studios elevate the space while keeping it simple.

with one another. A custom Mugnaini pizza oven made from locally sourced stone is the centerpiece. The striking piece not only ties the room together, but also provides the perfect family-bonding activity. Gray oak cabinetry by Christopher Peacock and a marble sink by Hunt Studios further elevate the space. The kitchen is connected to an adjoining patio, which is furnished with woven chairs by Summit that give off a bohemian vibe. It is the perfect spot for the family to unwind after a long day—enjoying their meals with a view of the picturesque ocean. The master bedroom embodies the family’s vision of casual comfort, with cozy off-white bedding from Rudy Romero. The deep-gray bed frame and coffee-colored armchair adds deeper tones to the room’s creamy color scheme. Through broad windows, one has plentiful views of the surrounding greenery—a breathtaking sight to wake up to. This Carmel-by-the-Sea home perfectly reflects the homeowners’ personalities, and has an emphasis on

livability. Schicketanz seamlessly blends the property’s indoor and outdoor spaces, successfully creating a stunning contemporary home that offers residents a profound connection with nature.

室內選用了柔和偏暖的中性色調,以大面的白牆和 精致的橡木地板作為基礎。擁有海景的起居室是家庭的 「 中心樞紐 」,寬大的轉角布藝沙發營造出舒適的氛圍, 一張休閒的棕橘色皮質沙發,則提升了空間的品質,質 樸而不失溫度的設計細節,在此可見一斑。 「 這是一個溫暖的、熱愛烹飪的意大利家庭。」建 築師 Schicketanz 說。廚房也是這個家中非常重要的空 間。Christopher Peacock 的棕灰色橡木櫥櫃和訂製的 白色大理石檯面,不經意間為廚房帶來了一份優雅;中 島一角的木質檯面與大理石材質拼接,則於細節中展現 了精致。建築師為這個熱愛披薩的新家庭,設置了傳統 的石砌披薩烤箱,所選石材是在當地手工挑選的。粗獷 的石砌牆面,為空間增添了雕塑般的亮點,與其他相對 細膩的材料對比,豐富了室內空間的視覺體驗。 │55


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(Matt Vacca)


ELITE HOME

GET READY FOR A SIZZLING SUMMER 哈囉,夏天! By Faithe Lo

After a year spent in lockdown, life finally seems to be returning to normal. Celebrate by livening things up in the backyard again. Kick-start your summer by planning some long-awaited gatherings to reconnect with friends and family and create new memories together. OUTDOOR DINING What is more appealing than sizzling steaks and slightly burnt sweet corn on the grill? Get ready for a summer full of savory barbecue with a high-performance grill that can cook with any combination of gas, wood, and charcoal. Stay cool in the summer heat with a mobile bar that boasts impressive refrigeration technology.

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經過一年的沉寂,隨著逐漸放鬆的社交距離限制,後 院又該忙碌起來了!也能開始計劃夏季的各種活動,與 親朋好友再度相聚,面對面重新建立情誼,多麼令人感

PICTURES COURTESY OF CANE-LINE, DOMETIC, FBC LONDON AND KALAMAZOO.

到開心! 戶外饗宴 幾塊牛排、幾支雞翅,再加上玉米、蔬菜,一邊聽烤肉

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被旺盛爐火燒得滋滋作響、一邊聞肉汁滴到火上香氣 四溢,是夏季最引人垂涎的場景。有瓦斯、炭烤和木頭 火烤等三種火力來源的高性能烤爐是室外廚房的主心 骨,加上可以冰鎮各種冷飲、啤酒的冰箱和移動式吧 檯,讓戶外派對大升級! 1 FBC LONDON, OUTDOOR EDESIA CHAIR, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, FBC-LONDON.COM | 2 CANE-LINE, CORE TABLE 63 IN. BY 39.4 IN., $2,935, CANE-LINE.US | 3 DOMETIC, MOBAR 550S, $4,399, HOMEBARSELECT.COM LEFT PAGE: KALAMAZOO, HYBRID FIRE GRILL, STARTING AT $15,995, KALAMAZOOGOURMET.COM

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RELAXING IN STYLE What is more relaxing than settling into a swing chair and enjoying a warm breeze on a sunny afternoon? Hanging chairs, swing chairs, and hammocks are a great addition to your outdoor seating. People of all ages adore them. You can read, nap, or lounge about with friends while these chairs gently rock and soothe you, much like a boat on water. 有什麼比微風吹拂,窩在椅子上晒太陽更愜意?無論大人、 小 孩皆喜愛的吊籃、搖 椅和吊床,三 三兩 兩一起 搖 呀、晃 著,一面天南地北地聊天,累了就任由輕風拂面,小憩一會 兒;獨處時光,帶著一本書閱讀,或是就坐在椅上放鬆、放 空腦袋,忘掉時間、忘掉煩惱。

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PICTURES COURTESY OF CARL HANSEN, DEDON, SIKA DESIGN AND TUUCI.

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1 DEDON, KIDA HANGING LOUNGE CHAIR, STARTING AT $4,820, DEDON.DE/EN/ | 2 CARL HANSEN, BK13 SWING SOFA, SHOWN WITH THE BK17 A-FRAME AND SHADE, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, 100MILENY.COM | 3 TUUCI, AIR LOUNGE HAMMOCK, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, DDCNYC.COM LEFT PAGE: SIKA DESIGN, NANNA DITZEL HANGING EGG CHAIR, EXTERIOR, $3,223, SIKADESIGNUSA.COM

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FLEXIBLE SEATING A well-designed outdoor seating area can be rearranged to accommodate various numbers of people. Curved sofas allow for flexible seating and provide a more engaging conversational space, as people naturally face toward one another. Complement the space with some lounge chairs or zafus to enhance the experience.

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設計良好的室外座席,可以根據不同需求調整座位安排,配 合人數多寡移動座椅配置。弧形的沙發,讓人容易看到彼此 的面容與眼神,再加上機動性強的休閒椅或蒲團、坐墊,提 供更親切、貼合人性的條件讓大夥兒聯繫感情。

1 MANUTTI, TOUCH 32 IN. ROUND POUF, $1,600, CURRANONLINE.COM | 2 SKARGAARDEN, ASKER MODULAR SOFA, LIGHT GREY, STARTING AT $1,800, YLIGHTING.COM | 3 RH, BELLA-DURA CASSIS, MOSAIC SQUARE PILLOW COVER, AZURE, STARTING AT $235; SOLID SQUARE PILLOW COVER, AZURE, STARTING AT $150; RH.COM | 4 DEDON, DALA LOUNGE CHAIR, STARTING AT $3,760; DALA STOOL, STARTING AT $1,485, DEDON.DE/EN/ 3

PICTURES COURTESY OF CASSINA, DEDON, MANUTTI, DEDON, RH AND SKARGAARDEN.

LEFT PAGE: CASSINA, TRAMPOLINE OUTDOOR COLLECTION, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, CASSINA.COM

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THE POST-PANDEMIC LONG ISLAND REAL ESTATE MARKET 疫情下的長島地產市場變化 By Jane Qi

S

otheby’s International Realty is a global luxury real estate brand with over 1,000 offices and 24,000 sales associates worldwide. Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty represents Queens and Long Island with 25 offices and 900 sales associates. We spoke to Deirdre O’Connell, the chief executive officer of Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty, about the real estate market on Long Island during the pandemic.

蘇富比國際地產(Sotheby’s International Realty) 是國際知名頂級房產公司,旗下有 1,000 間辦公室以 及遍布全球的 24,000 名地產經紀人。而 Daniel Gale 蘇富比國際地產,為該公司在紐約長島和皇后區的唯一 分公司,旗下有 25 間地區辦公室和 900 名地 產經紀 人。該公司執行長 Deirdre O’Connell 女士近期接受 本刊採訪,介紹了長島地區自疫情以來的地產情況。 長島地產疫情前後變化 據 O’Connell 女士介紹,現在長島的地產情況和前幾

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年相比很特別。在 2018 年市場升溫後,2019 年初數月 中,則因買家對市場定價的反制,而出現停滯狀態。就在 2020 年疫情爆發前不久,市場已逐步恢復,價格出現變 化,這反映了市場出現許多躍躍欲試的買家。然而,隨即 疫情爆發,一切戛然而止,不過,令人慶幸的是,長島的 房產市場,在 2020 年的仲夏期間已逐漸步上軌道,到 如今,市場的熱絡景象已再次回歸。

PHOTOS BY SHUTTERSTOCK

THE MARKET BEFORE AND AFTER COVID According to Ms. O’Connell, the overall real estate market on Long Island has taken interesting turns over the past couple of years. In the early months of 2019, the market stalled a bit due to buyers pushing back on pricing after a price surge in 2018. Shortly before the pandemic began, the market had started


to open as prices began to adjust to reflect what buyers were willing to pay. Then the pandemic hit, and things came to a stop. However, the real estate market on Long Island was back on track by mid-summer 2020 and continues to be extremely strong today. O’Connell indicated that the current market is at levels that have not been seen since 2005 and 2006, particularly in the high end. “Our high end had been at a stall and has not sold at this level since that time,” she said. There were a lot of foreign investors coming in and buying the high-end estates about 10 years ago, and when that group of buyers left the marketplace, the high-end market really struggled. The five boroughs, on the other hand, are coming back a little more slowly, particularly in Manhattan, but are absolutely coming back. Great demand is being seen on the eastern end of Long Island, the secondary home market. “People are continuing to re-evaluate how they live—across the board,” O’Connell said. People who are committed to staying in Manhattan are moving to larger apartments, so they have more space. Those that have purchased something on the East End where they will spend most of their time, are also buying something smaller in Manhattan, so they can work a few days in the city and then go to their escape house out East. Across the board, people are purchasing because they’re changing how they’re living.

「 現在的情形是自 2005、06 年以來都沒見過的, 不可思議!」她表示,尤其在高端市場中,已很久沒見 到房源如此搶手。這樣的榮景,10 年前曾有過,當時有 不少國外買家來長島購入高端的房產,然而此一時彼一 時,好景並未持續太久。不過,現在長島地區的高端市 場賣得很好,相比之下,紐約市五大區的房產則恢復得 慢一些,尤其是曼哈頓地區的復原之勢更為艱難,但總 歸還是出現回復之象。 O’Connell 女士還談到,長島東部度假 屋市場升 溫。雖然曼哈頓正逐步恢復元氣,人們開始購入曼哈頓 地產,但有趣的是,買家也在考量——是要在曼哈頓買 一個大一點的公寓呢?還是依舊在曼哈頓買個小公寓, 以方便工作期間住宿,然後到長島東部來安家置業,度 過更多家庭時光?經歷這次疫情,人們的生活方式在改 變,同時在多地購買地產滿足生活、工作需求的現象日 趨顯著。 買家、賣家如何把握當前市場機緣 「 對買家來說,要做好充分準備,要準備好貸款預批信 ( 房貸預審證明),要清晰知道自己的需求,您需要一位 專業地產人士來協助 」,O’Connell女士強調,特別是 一些細節方面,因為現在是「 賣家市場 」,您一定也不想 多次出價還買不到房。 而對賣家來說,您也需要專業人士協助您將房子打 理到最佳狀態來賣個好價錢。不過,別以誇張的價格將 您的房產上市,而是選放適當價格。按過往經驗,如此 出價,結果反而會超過預期,而且可以向買家要求更好 的附帶條款。反觀那些要價過高的房子,即使在「 賣家 市場 」下,依然無人問津。

HOW TO PREPARE FOR THE CURRENT MARKET Ms. O’Connell stressed the difficulty of purchasing in the current market. Buyers have to be really well-prepared. A preapproval is a prerequisite. With demand high and low inventory, the market is extremely competitive. You need a professional to help you navigate the details of the process and ensure you are successful. She said that it would be very frustrating to go to countless properties, put in countless offers, and never secure a home. “Sellers need to be prepared as well.” O’Connell added. It’s important to work with a real estate professional who will make sure your home is staged well and priced properly. If your property is priced right, chances are you may get more than you are asking, and more importantly, you will sell it with the best terms. “While we have a great demand for homes, those that are overpriced are still sitting. Despite the

Courtesy of Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty │63


tight inventory, buyers still aren’t willing to overpay,” O’Connell said. Some sellers may be a bit nervous about putting their houses on the market without another home to go to. However, there is no better time to sell in advance, as it is not often that there are so many cash buyers. If you’re able to sell with no contingencies and cash, then you’ll go into the market a stronger buyer with cash in hand. TRENDING FEATURES AND AMENITIES “Right now, on Long Island, everything is in demand, particularly if it’s finished,” O’Connell said. Buyers don’t want to have to fix up homes right now, for two reasons. First of all, interest rates are currently very low. Buyers want a home that is completely done, so they don't have to spend money on repairs. Secondly, building supplies are very expensive and hard to get. Any type of construction is now more expensive and taking much longer. Because of this, properties that are ready to go are strongly favored. Since people are still recovering from the pandemic, most are looking for a little more room in a home—whether that’s an extra bedroom or more office space. Pools are still a very popular amenity. Spacious yards and green spaces are also sought after. Buyers want to make sure they have space to relax outside and enjoy outdoor activities. “Pre-COVID, people were looking for houses as a place to sleep, and all other activities were outside the house. They’d eat out, they’d play out, and they would work out,” O’Connell said. “Now, they want to be sure that they can also do some of that at home.” After going through the pandemic, many have reconsidered what “home” means to them. More people want to actually enjoy living in their houses, rather than viewing the house as simply a place to come back to after a long day away.

由於目前買家的需求量大於房屋的供給量,一、兩 套房產 上市,有 10 個買家出價,因此競 購 現 象普遍, 買家買得 辛 苦,導 致 房 價 攀 升,而最 終 成 交 的買家, 都是出價和給予的附帶 條 款最優者:比如提 供貸款預 批(pre-approval)、 保 證 無 貸 款 風 險(mortgage contingency waived),甚至是現金等,為了能拿到房 子,買家不得不向賣家放棄很多常見要求。 不必修繕、空間更多的房子較搶手 O’Connell 女士介紹,長島的情況是所有價位或樣式的 房產皆供不應求,尤其是那些可以拎包入住、不需修繕 的房子更為搶手,這有兩個原因:一是現在房屋貸款利 率很低,貸款買房很合適,倘若房子還需裝修,還得投 入額外的金錢與時間;二是現在的材料費上漲,且不易 購得。綜上兩點,那些屋況好,且不必裝修的房子,成 了市場寵兒。 此外,受疫情衝擊,人們更嚮往大一點的居住空間, 如多一間臥室或辦公空間,這就成了更為普遍的需求。 而配有游泳池的房源,依然深受歡迎。即使未來一段時 間,生活條件逐漸復原,人們也可能不會一週 5 天都出 外上班,會有更多在家工作的考量,倘若疫情未能完全

O’Connell 女士透露,現在的確是賣房的好時機,

平息,人們也希望能有自家後院,從事一些戶外活動。

因為房源稀缺,現在賣房者可能獲得更高的出價。有賣

過 去,有 不 少人 只把 房 子當成 是 個 睡 覺 的 地方,

家怕自己在賣房後,不能以心目中的理想價位購入新房

所有其他活動,比如就餐、運動、工作等都可以在外進

產,但如今現金買家很難得,賣了房子後,手裡的現金

行,而現在,人們則希望在家也能從事這些活動,正如

更充足,會更有實力去買合適自己的房子。因此她建議

O’Connell 女士所說: 「 儘管我們會重新開始旅遊,重

「 先賣房,再買房」,加之現在利率低,的確是買房時機。

返公司,重新上餐館,但是有一點不同了,我們將比疫情

如果您打算在未來一、兩年內賣房,可以考慮現在賣房。

64│

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