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APRIL 2022 I AUSTRALIA COAST TO COAST

Annabel Crabb on growing up in country Australia

ESCAPE THE EVERYDAY

SHARE IN THE FRESHEST PRODUCE AUSTRALIA HAS TO OFFER

Happy milkers

The Victorian dairy putting cows first

EXCELLENT VINTAGE

COOK’S KITCHEN Ideas for the heart of the home

A WINEMAKER’S GARDEN IN ORANGE

PADDOCK TO PLATE THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA RESTAURANT MAKING A BIG IMPRESSION

From The Ground Up

Bernard Dining Table with Edgard & Mona Chairs

SYDNEY 02 9906 3686

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EDITOR’S LETTER

my favourite things...

Wheel on in

I’ve long wanted an Art Deco-inspired drinks trolley like this one from Early Settler.

PHOTOGRAPHY BRIGID ARNOTT, WILL HORNER DRESS COUNTRY ROAD

Regional restaurants play an important role in their local communities. In many cases, they act as the go-between for producers and the general public, showcasing the best ingredients and wine from the area. By putting it onto the forks and into the glasses of their guests, they get people talking about where the produce came from and, in turn, increase awareness about the amazing work that farmers and winemakers do, all at the mercy of Mother Nature. This is definitely how Tedesca Osteria works. The 30-seat restaurant on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula is “connected to land and region, with a menu driven by local produce”. They also offer onsite accommodation – true destination dining. See our story and delicious recipes on page 116.

We also visit micro-dairy How Now in Katamatite, northern Victoria, where owner Cathy Palmer set out to do things differently by keeping cows and calves together. She has about 100 head of Jersey cows and is currently milking half to produce ‘kind milk’ (page 42). Seeing the verdant paddocks in Marnie Hawson’s photographs reminds me of Kyogle, where I was born, which is surrounded by dairy farms. My birthplace and Lismore, where I spent most of my childhood, have been devastated by the recent floods. It has been difficult to watch on the news and social media as water reached levels unseen in Lismore. I have friends who still live there and their homes have been destroyed in some cases and they have nothing – nothing but mud, mess and loss.

To help those affected by flooding in the Northern Rivers region and South East Queensland, Country Style will be donating 10 cents from every copy sold of our May issue to non-profit organisation GIVIT. For now, enjoy reading this issue and learning about the great produce coming out of regional Australia. I hope you enjoy it.

Kylie Imeson

Crystal clear

These beautiful faceted crystal glasses from Hard to Find are lovely to drink from.

Here’s cheers

On a weekend in Berrima I discovered Joadja Distillery and their delicious gins.

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APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 7

“It’s quite a unique package on almost a hectare, with a really old orchard – some of the apple trees are over 100 years old.”

Sarah Fraser, page 60

A p r i l 2 02 2 | c o n t e n t s

90

82 COVER STORIES

82 THE COOK’S HOME

cows first Cook’s kitchen: Ideas for the heart of the home Excellent vintage: A winemaker’s garden in Orange Paddock to plate: The Mornington Peninsula restaurant making a big impression

90

36 Annabel Crabb on growing up in country Australia 42 Happy milkers: The Victorian dairy putting 100 106 116

SHOPPING LIST

31 HOUSE TO HOME

DECORATING

100 HEARTH AND SOUL

Create a country kitchen that suits your home and family, or add a fresh touch with pops of colour, sleek appliances and contrasting surface textures.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON, HANNAH PUECHMARIN STYLING BELLE HEMMING, CHERYL CARR

Browse our curated range of homewares, stylish appliances, statement furniture and gift ideas.

36 MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD

Life centres around the kitchen at caterer Natalie Mueller’s home in tropical Rockhampton, Qld. INVITE THE LIGHT A 13-hectare plot of land in Winchelsea, Victoria, became the perfect base for builder Steven Wade and his wife, Margaret, to create an energy-efficient family retreat.

GARDEN

In an extract from Growing Up in Country Australia, edited by Rick Morton, journalist Annabel Crabb describes the devastating impact of mouse plagues.

106 SHARED VISION

PEOPLE

115

42 QUIET REVOLUTION

Dairy farmer Cathy Palmer shares the ethos behind her gentle, intuitive approach to milking at her farm in Katamatite, Victoria.

HOMES

FOOD

116 IN GOOD COMPANY

60 AT OUR TABLE

Restoring a tiny 1800s cottage with a colourful history became a passion project for new owners Sarah and Ben Fraser in Victoria’s Central Highlands.

Persistence, planning and plenty of elbow grease have seen Printhie Wines owner Ed Swift and his wife, Emily, create a European-style garden in Orange, NSW. DOWN THE GARDEN PATH Chooks, snails and guineafowl are disturbing the peace at Fiona Weir Walmsley’s home in Gerringong, NSW.

125

Local produce cooked with care and attention is the secret behind Brigitte Hafner’s noteworthy dishes at Tedesca Osteria in Red Hill, Victoria.

FLAVOURS What to eat, drink and sample this month. >

116 100 106 42

REGULAR READING

14 Contributors 18 Your Page: Readers’ emails and letters 23 A Month in the Country: Autumn celebrations and 33 34 154

horseracing events kick off around the nation.

A Day in the Country: For Maggie MacKellar, autumn means a feast of homegrown goodies – all shared or traded among neighbours and friends.

Homegrown: Warndu co-founder Rebecca Sullivan is on a mission to educate everyday Australians about the powerful benefits of native foods.

Country Squire: Rob Ingram says forget the fancy culinary fads and embrace real food, grown and cooked the old-fashioned way.

SERVICES

20 SUBSCRIBE OR EXTEND YOUR SUBSCRIPTION

130

Chef Steve Cumper says that, thanks to the hard work and resilience of small producers, vegies have claimed their rightful place in the spotlight.

LITTLE BITES OF HAPPINESS Philippa Moore’s late grandmother, Beth King, was known for her scrumptious Anzac biscuits.

Today, the sweet treats remain a source of joy and nostalgia for her family.

OUR COVER

A cute little rabbit brings a touch of Easter magic to our cover, which features delicious fruit, vegetables, breads and wines from the Central Highlands of Victoria.

FASHION

PHOTOGRAPHY Marnie Hawson STYLING Belle Hemming

Fashion label Eva’s Sunday presents new pieces from its collaboration with stylist Lynda Gardener. The nature-inspired tops, dresses and accessories are perfect for layering throughout the seasons.

THE STYLE DIARY An Akubra, colourful workboots and a touch of bohemian flair is the uniform of choice for Victorian micro-dairy farmer Cathy Palmer.

ON THE COVER We prepared an autumn harvest of vegetables, freshly baked bread and local wines at Sarah and Ben Fraser’s 1800s cottage in the tiny township of Dry Diggings, at the foot of Mount Franklin in Victoria. Sarah, an artist, and Ben, a horticulturalist, enjoyed the task of gently restoring the humble home, which is surrounded by serene bushland, fragrant wisteria and a century-old apple orchard.

132 INTO THE FOREST

136

139 149 153

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY

Country Style acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Country Style also pays respects to Elders past, present and emerging.

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PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON, MONIQUE LOVICK, PARKER BLAIN STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK. WALKERVILLE TIDE BY LUCY HERSEY.

128 SOIL AND TOIL

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M O N I Q U E L O V I C K

Orange local Monique enjoyed photographing Emily and Ed Swift’s stunning garden on page 106.

“Our favourite part about living here is the distinct seasons,” says Monique, 31, of her home in Orange, NSW, where she grew up and where she returned in 2015 after a stint in London. “We have the most beautiful vineyards, farms, orchards, restaurants and shops.” Monique’s partner, Leigh, and their sons Luca, four, and Reuben, two, love rural life – the family has two golden retrievers, Baxter and Chester, and six silkie chickens. Monique has been a professional photographer for two years, and loves it: “The opportunity to travel means I get to capture and connect with wonderful people and places.”

B E L L E

H E M M I N G

Stylist Belle works on many of Country Style’s stories, and in this issue styled homes in Dry Diggings (page 60) and Winchelsea (page 90), Victoria.

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With nearly two decades of experience styling interiors, Belle knows just what will look right on Country Style’s pages. “It’s a lovely community who thinks outside the box,” she says of the people she meets on the job.

“I love that I get to travel and see beautiful properties.” Her own home, on nearly a hectare outside Glenlyon, Vic, and overlooking rolling hills, is just as beautiful.

Belle lives there with her partner Andrew Hemming, a bespoke upholsterer, their daughter Vivien, plus dogs Grace and Nash, and cats Socks and Toffee. “I love the open spaces, clean air and creative community,” she says.

WORDS HANNAH JAMES PHOTOGRAPHY MONIQUE LOVICK, MARNIE HAWSON

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YOUR PAGE

On our February cover, two-year-old West Highland terrier Tilly has the best seat in the house at Di and Anthony Loone’s light-drenched, 1950s waterfront shack, @drop_anchor_ in picturesque Weymouth, Tasmania. Interior designer Di took her time updating the shack with creature comforts, while retaining its sense of history. Photography @marniehawson Styling @drop_anchor_

Carol Pearce wrote us a two-page letter in her beautiful handwriting describing when she emigrated to Australia from the UK in 1952, aged 15, with her parents, sister and brother. She also enclosed a copy of a letter she wrote to her old school back in Manchester detailing her new life Down Under, which they printed in their newsletter.

YOUR PAGE

OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE GAVE READERS MUCH-NEEDED ESCAPISM DURING SEVERE WEATHER, AND OFFERED CREATIVE INSPIRATION FOR HOUSE AND GARDEN UPGRADES. Like coming to an oasis in the desert – that is how I would describe coming home from the busyness of the shops and making a coffee, then finding an armchair to settle in for the first tantalising browse through my favourite magazine.

Leisa Rossignol’s garden (February issue) was a sheer delight. I was a very keen visitor to her magical garden during Toowoomba’s Carnival of Flowers. Never have I seen such an abundance of healthy vegetables and flowers sharing their little beds with each other and the many visitors.

Such a happy little garden!

Country Style never disappoints.

Each issue reveals a glimpse into the homes and gardens of fascinating people and places in our country.

This magazine feeds the soul!

Jennifer Anderson, Lota, Qld

need for visas or passports. In your February issue, I found myself visiting the tiny village of Weymouth on Tasmania’s north coast, and the stunning beachside shack Drop Anchor, which is the perfect retreat for owners Di and Anthony Loone.

Nestled in a bush block of she-oaks, tea trees and native grasses, a quiet, lonely beach at their doorstep, the sound of the sea… this is the perfect escape. Special thanks to the Loones for giving us a peek into their piece of Tassie heaven.

Judith Caine, Donvale, Vic

WINNER

BREAK IN THE RAIN

We are into our fourth day of solid, heavy rain here in South East Queensland. The creeks are flooded,

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After months trapped in COVID lockdowns, many of us have relied on the pages of our favourite magazines to provide travel escapes.

And Country Style has certainly taken me to places far and wide, offering much-needed getaways by exploring country and coastal destinations, and all without the

our road is inaccessible, our house pump has stopped due to waterlogging and our property has fast-flowing water running over it from every angle. But amid this craziness, I’m sitting here on a camp chair reading my Country Style magazine under the cover of the back porch of our home, while I supervise two horses taking some much-needed shelter and reprieve from the rain!

Thank you for providing wonderful reading that I can immerse myself in for a brief break from the worry that this weather system is causing.

I love that through reading your magazine, I can ‘travel’ and explore many beautiful rural places around this incredible country!

Ali Ferguson-Riley, Cedar Creek, Qld

Congratulations

to Ali Ferguson-Riley, who has won a $500 voucher for Eva’s Sunday, a Beechworth-based label that makes gorgeous linen clothing. Read our story on page 132. Visit evassunday.com.au Share your thoughts and experiences with us by writing to Country Style, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW, 2001, or emailing austcountrystyle@aremedia.com.au. Please include your address and daytime telephone number.

Letters may be edited for reasons of space and clarity.

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PHOTOGRAPHY NATALIE NOWOTARSKI

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A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY

PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON

Strolling through lush paddocks is a daily joy for Margaret and Steven Wade at their property in Winchelsea, Vic. To read more, turn to page 90.

This month, autumn fun kicks off in the Macedon Ranges, while the Canberra region celebrates its heritage, and the Easter Bunny hops over to Roma.

WORDS GR ETA DUMBLETON

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 23

A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY Head to country NSW for a weekend of Italian-style indulgence with A Little Bit of Italy in Broke. FACING PAGE Luxurious comfort awaits at The Voyager in Tassie.

Canberra and Region Heritage Festival, Apr 9-May 1 Through the theme of ‘Curiosity’, the 2022 Canberra and Region Heritage Festival will lead a celebration of our nation’s multifaceted heritage.

On guided tours, locals and visitors will explore the industries of colonists, mid-century architecture, the heritage of science and innovation, and learn more about Ngunnawal custodians as they connect to Country. Coinciding with the school holidays, the festival also offers fun activities during Kids’ Week from April 18-22. environment. act.gov.au/heritage/heritage-festival

VICTORIA

Open Studios West Gippsland, Apr 9-10 The ideal destination for a day trip or weekend getaway, West Gippsland is a creative rural hub for foodies and winery-hoppers.

The region is also home to a diverse range of artists, who are set to open their studios to the public in this ‘Discover Something New – Meet the Maker’ event. Painters, sculptors, ceramicists and more will demonstrate their creative techniques and explain their inspirations.

New artworks will also be available for purchase. Artists include

calligrapher Anita George; painter Gary Miles; Sue Acheson, who creates ceramics, paintings and wood carvings, plus many more. openstudioswestgippsland.com.au Macedon Ranges Autumn Festival, Mar 26-Apr 25 Nine villages throughout the picturesque Macedon Ranges unite to celebrate the prettiest season of all with a festival of fresh produce, wine, music, nature and art.

Treat your tastebuds with the Pie and Tart Trail, featuring 20 mouthwatering pastries from bakeries across the region. Visitors can also enjoy immersive art displays and live music, visit farmers’ markets, or tour the historic gardens at Duneira Estate on Mount Macedon. Take friends along to the Cidersong Autumn Picnic at DV Cider, or Gin Afternoon Tea at Big Tree Distillery. For itinerary ideas, head to: visitmacedonranges. com/autumn-festival

NEW SOUTH WALES

Orange F.O.O.D Week, Apr 1-10 Australia’s longest-running regional food and wine festival returns in 2022 with 100 events championing the abundance of edible and liquid delights in ‘The Food Basket of NSW’.

Located just over three hours’ drive from Sydney and Canberra, Orange

welcomes visitors to a range of popular events, including The Sampson Street Lunch, F.O.O.D Night Markets, Forage, Sunday Producer Markets and Brunch, plus producer workshops. Events book up fast, so get in quick! orangefoodweek.com.au A Little Bit of Italy in Broke, Apr 29-May 1 The tiny village of Broke, in the Hunter Valley, is celebrating 16 years of fabulous food and wine in this two-day festival held across eight venues. Expect a weekend of fun among the vines and olive groves as you sample authentic Italian food and wine.

The Broke-Fordwich region is dotted with boutique cellar doors, so plan your stops to coincide with a vineyard tour, cooking demonstration, wine and pasta workshop, Art’n’Sip class or gourmet dinner. Purchase tickets at: brokefordwich.com.au Grenfell Picnic Races, Apr 9 Tucked into the Lachlan Valley in Central West NSW, Grenfell is a gold-rush town well worth a visit for its historic buildings, lively pubs and community spirit. And in April, the locals will be gearing up for the annual Grenfell Picnic Races, a one-day event featuring six highly contested horse races. With live music, food stalls and amusement rides, it’s a fun day out for the whole family. Don’t forget to frock up (or suit up) as the Fashions on the Field event embraces all ages in a range of categories. grenfellpicnics.org.au Newcastle Food Month, Apr 1-30 Foodies in Newcastle will be spoilt this April, with a month-long festival of events celebrating a variety of cuisines.

The signature event, Le Dîner en Blanc, is held in a secret location and has an ‘all white’ dress code for 1250 attendees. Elsewhere, the Plate Date deal sees a range of eateries serving up meals (plus a beverage) for just $25. From opera in a brewery to a progressive lunch in hotel suites, there’s a meal to match all appetites. newcastlefoodmonth.com.au

24 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

PHOTOGRAPHY LEAN TIMMS

ACT

W E E K E N D AWA Y TAS The Voyager Swap the rat-race for a weekend in the

wilderness in Tasmania’s far south. Nestled by the water’s edge at Strathblane, The Voyager is a stunning sanctuary that sleeps up to eight with four bedrooms designed to spark the imagination and showcase the pristine natural surroundings. There’s no need to fear the cooler temperatures, with a toasty wood-fired stove warming the cabin, luxurious bedding for a deep sleep, and fluffy towels waiting after a soak in the clawfoot tub or blissful rain shower. The Voyager’s kitchen is well stocked, so homemade meals are a cinch for long lunches with water views, or guests can enjoy a home-delivered feast from the local River Run Tavern. The Voyager is listed on Airbnb.

NORTHERN TERRITORY

Parrtjima – A Festival in Light, Apr 8-17 Every year, over 10 nights, the Alice Springs Desert Park is illuminated with light installations set against the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges. This year, the theme of Parrtjima – A Festival in Light, held on Mparntwe (Alice Springs), is ‘Sky Country’, with artists exploring their place in the universe, with a focus on the elements of sky, air and wind. Guests will be awed by dazzling light shows, art, film, music – including ARIA Award-winner Dan Sultan – and interactive workshops.

Register for a free ticket online at: parrtjimaaustralia.com.au

QUEENSLAND

Roma’s Easter in the Country, Apr 14-18 Outback Queensland is the place to be this Easter, as Roma kicks off a five-day extravaganza that has become one of the state’s premier annual events. This year, Roma’s Easter in the Country will feature

performances by singer-songwriters Casey Barnes and Christie Lamb, along with the popular Outback Tucker Under the Stars event, where chef Matt Golinski will whip up a three-course feast. The Deadly Way Cultural Show by the Mandandanji people includes a smoking ceremony and traditional dance and paint. Add in a rodeo, bull-riding, nature tours, a craft show and Easter Egg Hunt, and there’s truly something for everyone. easterinthecountryroma.com.au Birdsville Races, Apr 10-11 In 2022, the iconic Birdsville Races will reach a grand milestone: 140 years of horseracing history. Dubbed the ‘Melbourne Cup of the Outback’, the event draws 6000 spectators each year for two days of races and country entertainment on the edge of the desert. It’s also fun for a great cause, with funds raised for the Royal Flying Doctor Service Queensland section.

Off-track, there’s plenty to see and do, including the Fashions on the Field

parade, live music at the Birdsville Hotel, Fred Brophy’s Boxing Troupe, a community Fun Run and a massive charity auction. birdsvilleraces.com

TASMANIA

ECHO Festival, Apr 8-10 Past and present traditions collide at the East Coast Harvest Odyssey’s Festival of the Senses, held in rural Cranbrook. This year’s theme focuses on the vital role of kelp forests on the east coast of Tasmania. Guests can partake in a range of curated events. Choose from the Native Bounty Feast, where fresh shellfish, bush foods and wallaby are cooked on opal coals, or go grape-stomping in The Great Eastern Ferment.

Elsewhere, the Womb Room is a sacred space designed to offer comfort and awaken the senses.

The Old Gala Mill will also host gin, wine and whisky tastings, while live music and fireside tales add to the enchanting ambience. echofestival.com.au >

A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY FROM TOP Bonnie restaurant serves up traditional woodfired pizzas, with seating indoors or by the pretty lake; leave room for some scrumptious cake at Hearth by Moonacres.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Tasting Australia – Let the Good Times Flow: A Feast of the Riverland, Apr 30 Held at sunset on the banks of the Murray River in Loxton, this banquet conjured up by world-renowned chefs Duncan Welgemoed and Mark Best captures the finest local produce of South Australia’s Riverland region.

Guests will dine on Murray cod with capers; spit-roasted lamb with river mint sauce; carp and yabby larb; and orange and almond cake with fresh curd, honey and dried figs – all paired with innovative local wines. With Hills hoists and disused water tanks serving as cooking vessels, guests can expect a fun, highly original dining experience. tastingaustralia.com.au

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Busselton Festival of Triathlon, Apr 29-May 1 For 21 years, triathletes from around the country have tested their endurance at the Busselton Festival of Triathlon event. This year, the program has been expanded to include the Busselton 100 Triathlon, comprising a two-kilometre ocean swim, an 80-kilometre cycle through the Tuart Forest, and an 18-kilometre run along the foreshore. Budding sports stars can have a go in the Kids’ Triathlon event, while the Fun Run is ideal for groups – and fancy dress is encouraged! Enjoy a weekend of festival fun in this coastal paradise. busseltonfestivaloftriathlon.com.au

26 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

book a table VIC Bonnie “Because with wine, life’s Bonnie” – it certainly is at the

historic All Saints Estate Winery in Rutherglen, where visitors now have the perfect excuse to stay longer with the opening of Bonnie, a new eatery serving up artisanal pizzas, charcuterie, cheese platters and fresh salads.

It’s the latest commercial venture for siblings Eliza, Nick and Angela Brown, whose family business promotes the best wine and produce in the region.

Housed within the winery’s original bottling building, designed in the 1960s by renowned architect Philip Cox, Bonnie offers lakeside dining and sweeping views over All Saints Estate and shiraz vines. Pair a slice of pizza – try the Stella with Mooloolaba prawns, romesco, confit onion, arugula and pickled jalapeños – with a crisp wine or locally sourced beer. And leave room for dessert – a scoop of Gundowring ice-cream in flavours like toasted honey and walnut or salted butter caramel. allsaintswine.com.au/bonnie

NSW Hearth by Moonacres Food meets art and culture at Hearth by

Moonacres, a stunning new dining experience located at the Ngununggula Southern Highlands Regional Gallery in Bowral. Launched by the team at Robertson-based Moonacres Kitchen, Hearth’s seasonal à la carte menu features organic produce grown at Moonacres Farm and sourced locally.

Head chef Sabine Spindler is guided by her no-waste philosophy and farm-to-table ethos, creating dishes such as ‘Waste Not Tuesday’ lamb – comprising leftover lamb offcuts and broth, eggplants and kale which weren’t sold at a Moonacres Farm market stall, and yoghurt from the milk left over from coffees. “My aim is to serve food that reflects the seasons and tells the stories of the land it was grown on and the people who produced it. The connection of people is a very important aspect of cooking for me; the connection to the producers, the people I’m working with and the people I am cooking for,” says Sabine. Make a day of it with a leisurely road trip, gallery visit and wholesome lunch. moonacres.com.au/hearth/

PHOTOGRAPHY KATE SHANASY, ASHLEY MACKEVICIUS

Sounds by the River, Apr 9 South Australia’s award-winning riverside music event returns in 2022 to the town of Mannum – however, due to COVID, it’ll be held at the Mannum Golf Club this time around. What hasn’t changed is the impressive roll call of industry favourites including Hunters and Collectors, James Reyne, The Living End, Killing Heidi, Jon Stevens and Boom Crash Opera. Pack a picnic and settle in for an afternoon of cruisy tunes. soundsbytheriver.com.au

It’s no surprise, that AGA cookers are the choice of many interior designers and home renovators. From the stunning vitreous enamel finish to its nostalgic lines, the AGA cooker has teamed iconic good looks with a proud British heritage for 100 years.

For all the latest models, Email: AGAaustralia.com.au P: (03) 9521 4965 Facebook: @agaaustralia Instagram: @agaaustralia

AGA,

Celebrating 100 years.

SHOPPING LIST

TABLE A MOTION We love a solid oak table, and this Albert design from Cotswold InOut Furniture has a beautifully finished top and a touch of contemporary cool in the black A-shape legs. Time for a dining-room upgrade!

Visit cotswoldfurniture.com.au

AID BY DESIGN Country-dwellers know just how crucial it is to have a first-aid kit on hand.

Paediatric emergency nurse Nicole Gleeson, who runs CPR and first-aid courses, created the Rhythm First Aid Kit, with vital equipment in a sustainable timber box. Visit rhythmfirstaid.com.au

just add style

house to home FROM BIG-TICKET ITEMS TO PRETTY FURNISHINGS, THESE ARE OUR TOP BUYS THIS MONTH. WORDS H A NNA H JA MES

PHOTOGRAPHY EMILY ELLIS, SARAH ANDREWS

LIVING WELL

From her base in Narromine, NSW, Steph Shibble curates a selection of beautiful homewares from small Australian businesses. Ranging from elegant ceramics to classic tartan blankets and handy baskets, she’s got everything for your home.

Visit salubriousliving.com.au

SOFT ART

The wall of vintage paintings at Sarah Andrews’s Captains Rest Airbnb in Tasmania is loved by her guests – and every year, Sarah releases a range of cushions based on these artworks and others she finds on her travels. Ideal for beds and sofas, they’re printed and stitched in Melbourne on thick Belgian linen. Visit captainsrest.com/shop

Coco Chanel said: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off” – but we prefer to add something! Handmade by Kate Greenwood in Molong, NSW, Greenwood Designs’ jewellery and scarves will brighten your day.

Visit greenwooddesigns.com.au

toast of the town

Is it time to replace that tired, clunky toaster? DeLonghi’s Icona Capitals toasts four slices at a time, comes in a range of fun colours and has enough dials to launch a Jetsons-style spaceship.

Visit harveynorman.com.au APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 31

A DAY IN THE COUNTRY

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD FROM FISH TO BEEF TO BERRIES, MAGGIE MACKELLAR SAYS AUTUMN DELIVERS A FEAST TO BE SHARED AMONG FRIENDS.

PHOTOGRAPHY SAMUEL SHELLEY

WITH THE TASMANIAN border open, our visitors’ book

is again filling up as friends who we haven’t seen for too long drop by on their tour of Tasmania. No sooner has one lot left than the next lot arrives. It’s been wonderful. It opens us up, makes this old house feel full and useful, and keeps The Farmer and me from becoming total recluses.

As well as having the washing machine on high rotation, the freezer is getting a good workout as I lift roasts, shanks, chops and the odd crayfish or two out of its belly to feed the hordes. My brother commented that it must cost a fortune to host so many people – but here, it doesn’t.

This is partly because we kill our own meat, but it’s also because the barter system is in full swing.

Yesterday, with friends arriving in a few hours, I came back from my daily walk to find Dale pulling up in his faithful Ford station wagon. He wound down the window and handed me a fresh crayfish wrapped in newspaper.

“Dale,” I said, “you can’t go giving away all your crays.”

He laughed and told me it was for The Farmer. “I might need to call him to pull me out of a bog come winter time.”

“Well, thank you, I will pass on the message – and here’s to another wet winter,” I replied.

I walked inside thinking that crayfish, as well as being delicious, do double duty as risk insurance.

If it’s not crayfish at the back door, it’s venison steaks for the freezer, or a trumpeter for lunch. On particularly good days, it’s a sack of oysters in the mailbox as thanks for a load of wood. Sometimes The Farmer will come home from the pub on a Friday night with a side of home-smoked salmon from Rex. John is always a reliable source of the

freshest, sweetest tomatoes that continue to ripen well here in autumn. We both look forward to a bag of swedes from Bres down the road – he doesn’t dig them until after a few frosts have turned them so sweet that they almost don’t need butter. Honestly, we feast like royalty.

On top of the local banquet, our blessed ancient mulberry trees have been feeding us for months. There is something incredibly meditative about picking mulberries. I hand our newly arrived guests an old ice-cream container, check they haven’t got any white clothing on, and send them out to pick a punnet for the easiest dessert.

If I was a cook, I’d whip up an apple and mulberry crumble… but I’m lazy and settle for mulberries warmed on the stove with a splash of sherry and handful of raw sugar, served with a thick dollop of pure Tassie cream.

The trees bring the most incredible variety and volume of birds to the garden and sometimes when I look out my study window, it’s like looking into an aviary as silvereyes, thornbills, pardalotes, parrots, golden whistlers, blackbirds and swallows swoop and dive from the great bulk of the sheltering tree. If they’re not here for the fruit, then they are chasing the drunken orgy of insects that the tree also shelters. It’s such a bounty that I forgive the imprint of purple paw prints on the concrete floor.

We are all gorging on the goodness of the season. I remind myself to enjoy the glut, as winter is just around the corner.

The visitors will slow down. The birds will leave. The mulberry tree will lose all its leaves and perhaps we will enjoy being recluses, chock-full of the goodness of friends and good food

Maggie and The Farmer enjoy nature’s finest offerings on the farm.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 33

HOMEGROWN

FROM A SLOW FOOD ADVOCATE TO REVOLUTIONISING FARMING, WARNDU CO-FOUNDER REBECCA SULLIVAN IS ON QUITE A JOURNEY. WORDS H A NNA H JA MES PHOTOGRAPHY LUISA BR IMBLE

EVERY SO OFTEN there will be

a rush of newspaper articles about Indigenous foods – a chef at a hatted restaurant in Sydney who’s using riberries or saltbush – and a journalist will declare their time has finally come. And then the news stories die away.

Not this time, says Rebecca Sullivan, 41, who co-owns native foods company Warndu with her partner Damien Coulthard (both right), an Adnyamathanha man from the Northern Flinders and Gammon Ranges in South Australia.

“In the last seven or eight years, we’ve seen a huge change from it just being a trend to something we believe is here to stay,” she says. “Demand is outweighing supply, and the industry is really exciting.”

Like Damien, 37, Rebecca grew up in SA, and comes from a family that was embedded in a farming community. “But I could never have told you where my food came from,” she says. That all changed when she went to the UK, to the Royal Agricultural College to do a Masters in sustainable agriculture. She became the Youth Ambassador for Slow Food UK – but when she returned home 10 years later and met Damien, “I had a sort of hypocrite moment. I thought, ‘I’ve been championing local food my whole career, but I’ve never tried anything local’ – meaning native food.”

The pair, along with a business partner, launched Warndu to try to change that – for all Australians. “It put me on a much more authentic path,” Rebecca says. “Even though it’s not my culture, it’s a much more authentic fight for me because it involves food reconciliation and culture, and the environment. Without these plants in our soils, we’ll be in trouble with the changing climate. These are the plants and foods that are supposed to be here. They’re not just food, they’re medicine, and they’ve sustained Aboriginal peoples for tens and tens and tens of thousands of years.”

So Rebecca and Damien’s dreams for Warndu are far grander than simply selling native foods. They also run

34 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

educational programs, and have a cookbook out, Warndu Mai, with another to be published in October, The Native Food Companion.

The couple are the directors of the upcoming Quandong Festival in the Flinders Ranges, and have secured Bruce Pascoe, Paul West and Costa Georgiadis as speakers.

Damien is also a working artist and teaches Aboriginal children at the Tjindu Foundation, and they’re parents to son Mallee, two, who will be joined by a little brother in August. Yet their biggest initiative of all goes even further.

“Our big goal is to set up a climate-resilient communities model in rural Australia,” explains Rebecca, who lives with her family on an off-grid farm in the Clare Valley, and is expecting her second son with Damien. “We’re planting a demonstration garden to show other farmers how they can integrate native foods in their already existing crops.”

Native foods, she says, don’t just adapt to our changing climate; they’re nutrient-rich superfoods, and many of them fix nitrogen back into the soil. “So, really, we’re an environmental business more than a food business.”

And the secret to the couple’s achievements is a sense of urgency. “Damien’s grandparents are gone, which means their knowledge and their language have gone with them,” says Rebecca. “Food and language go hand in hand. So we knew we couldn’t just wait for the right time to start up – we are conscious that we’re running out of time.”

Yet they also have a generational view of their mission: “The work we’re doing is never going to be achieved in our lifetime. It’s a legacy project. So we hope Mallee and our younger son are as proud of their culture and heritage as Damien is, and that they’ll want to continue this work.”

Given their parents’ passion and work ethic, it seems that this, too, is a dream likely to be fulfilled.

Visit warndu.com or follow Warndu on Instagram @warndu

MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD Rural life brings both reward and hardship.

OF ALL THE CHALLENGES COUNTRY LIFE THROWS AT YOU, THE PERIODIC MOUSE PLAGUES TEST YOUR METTLE THE MOST, WRITES ANNABEL CRABB. WORDS A NNA BEL CR A BB PHOTOGRAPHY CHR ISTOPHER MOR R ISON

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 37

MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD One stowaway mouse quickly became two… and they kept multiplying.

GROWING UP ON A FARM teaches you some fairly brutal

lessons about life’s realities. One of them, of course, is “Where does meat come from?” A matter settled fairly early on for me, given that ours was a sheep farm, where my dad would occasionally do his own butchery. This explains my 30-year stint of vegetarianism, or pescetarianism at least; my own slightly wonky approach to matters dietary is that I am prepared to eat anything I would also be prepared personally to kill. I’m okay with knocking over a fish, even happier to deprive a prawn of its life. Crabs can expect no nomenclatural solidarity from me or my family.

But a chicken: nope. You can go on your way, friend. I like your beady little eyes and your innate sense of physical theatre with that comb. You and your four-legged acquaintances need fear nothing from me.

Another lesson you learn on a farm is the sharp limits the natural world imposes – sometimes summarily – on human effort and agency. There is nothing that pops you right back in your little box as a human more than watching the crops you spent countless hours planting frizzle in the sun. Or be washed away by a flood. Or get some weird disease that makes the harvest impossible to sell. Or not grow at all, something you do see from time to time if you grow up – like I did – in the driest state on the driest continent in the world.

Direct experience of how crisply and with what sadistic resolve the forces of nature will render your toil unto dust is enough to give the farm-raised person a lifelong ultrasensitivity to the elements. To this day, the sound of rain brings me a mindbending rush of relief, even now that I live in the city and rain means mouldy washing and kids going berserk indoors.

38 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

I was 47 years old when I learnt there was a name for the smell of rain on dry earth: petrichor. It’s a Greek-fragranced and lovely word, drawn from petra (stone) and ichor (the fluid said to flow in the veins of the gods). I was happy to learn the term; it’s not often that something so magical turns out to have a suitable name.

And in an even more satisfying development, it turns out a couple of Australian scientists coined it. Richard Thomas and the exultantly named Joy Bear – both CSIRO scientists, Joy the more unusual owing to her gender – established in their 1964 research paper ‘Nature of Argillaceous Odour’ that the intoxicating smell of rain on dry earth was caused by the release in moist conditions of a fragrant, yellowish oil contained in rocks and minerals. They called it ‘petrichor’ and the name stuck. Joy Bear (Joy! Bear!) kept working at the CSIRO until her late eighties, and died very recently, in the autumn of 2021.

What does petrichor smell like? It smells like luck changing. To a kid who knows how adults feel about drought, petrichor smells as rich as fruitcake; the dense and sweet assurance that better times are ahead.

It’s the intoxicating feeling of dicing with elements that are larger and more powerful than you, and winning a round.

And, look, dealing with the weather is one thing. It’s a mighty and worthy foe. No one should ever feel bad about being bested by drought or floods or hurricanes. They’re all bigger than you. There’s a reason why, in an increasingly secular society, we still recognise the concept of ‘acts of God’ as grounds for why bills won’t be paid, services delivered or concerts performed. It’s a formal acknowledgment of our own ultimate puniness in the face of a greater power.

We poor bare-forked animals, despite our rapacious

exploitation of the planet, still know to fold em when the planet occasionally hits back.

But what about when the enemy is smaller than you?

What about if the adversary that’s grinding you and your business and any chance you might have at prosperity into the dirt weighs, say, about 20 grams?

The common mouse (Mus musculus) was introduced to Australia with the arrival of the First Fleet. Mice and rats were an inescapable part of seafaring at the time, and it’s likely no one noticed or cared when a handful of the creatures were hauled ashore in boxes of provisions and zoomed off into the vastness of the scrub. Getting on for a century later, the first reports of a mouse plague emerged; the Queanbeyan Age published in 1871 the testimony of a landowner near Walgett: hordes of mice feasting on “rice, flour, starch, bacon, meat, hides, tallow, boots, clothing... the vegetables – which this year have been a great crop – are now being devoured by these pests... nothing comes amiss to them, and what we are to do I know not.”

White Australia was not – at this point – sufficiently self-aware to take a sip of its tea and think with any perspective about how annoying it was to have a throng of uninvited mammals show up and decimate its stuff.

But mouse plagues would go on to become a regular part of Australian life. Here’s a weird thing I didn’t know until very recently: Australia and China are the only two countries in the world that experience mouse plagues. Why? No one has any firm idea. The mouse is thought to have originated in India, which remains the second-biggest producer of wheat in the world, but the cropping expanses of Uttar Pradesh do not experience the regular depredations of the Mouse Warriors the way that Australian farmers do.

I was seven years old when I first encountered a proper mouse plague. My mother and father, who as newlyweds moved to Lower Light on the Adelaide Plains, recall a minor invasion in 1969, during which time my mother says they could hear the haystack outside their bedroom window at night if they left the window open, so alive was it with teeming and feasting invaders. How was my elder brother conceived? Some questions are best left unanswered.

But 1980 was the big one. By that time, my parents had three children. The littlest – my brother Tom – was two.

My clearest recollection of that infestation is opening my drawer and seeing brown bodies ricocheting about in a panic among my underpants. The mice would jam themselves into anything that afforded cover. Cupboards were alive with them. They’d scuttle along curtain rods. The yellow armchairs next to the fireplace wore a frill of tails sticking out from under their skirts.

The stench was incredible and multilayered; the sort of smell you’d run at top speed to evade, except it was everywhere. Top notes of acrid rodent urine, with deep feral undertones that infiltrated everything from paper to food to upholstery. Mice love cheese, as everyone knows from Looney Tunes. But they also love soap, and candles, and shoes, and electrical wiring.

We had cats, but they surrendered quickly. Like diners who have peaked too early at the all-you-can-eat seafood bar, they spent their days lying nauseously in the shade while mice skittered around them completely undeterred.

The haystacks were heaving with mice; every piece of wood or sheet metal on the place, if turned over, would send hundreds of creatures zooming crazily for somewhere else to hide. >

“Mice love cheese, as everyone knows from Looney Tunes. But they also love soap, and candles, and shoes, and electrical wiring.”

MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD

Like any seven-year-old, I was constantly whining at my parents about getting a pet. But this oversupply of tiny furry creatures was something else. The thing is, one mouse is cute. Two mice, even, are cute. But when you factor in the unstoppable evolutionary ambition of Mus musculus, things start to get less sweet, rather swiftly.

The common mouse becomes sexually fertile at six weeks of age. Its gestation period is three weeks. Two mice can become 90 mice in just three months. And in the space of one human gestation period, two mice can become 500 mice.

My brothers and I were assigned the task of seizing mice by the tails and dashing them to the ground. So, yes, I have probably thousands of tiny deaths on my conscience. And, no, I would not eat a mouse, notwithstanding the murder/ edibility matrix outlined earlier.

In May 2021, when the scriptwriters of Planet Earth: The Reality Series sent Australia a mouse plague to add to the already-quite-Biblical pandemic, bushfire and climate Armageddon storylines, a spokeswoman for PETA created uproar when she criticised farmers for using poison to control the marauders, counselling that “humane traps allow small animals to be caught gently and released unharmed”.

Now, on the whole I’m not in favour of city/country sledging, but I do have some sympathy for mouse-besieged farmers catching wind of PETA’s well-intentioned advice.

If you imagine how annoying it is to be asked ‘Have you switched it off and on again at the wall?’ and multiply that about four million times, you will approach the level of fury a person might feel when – overrun by tiny gnawing stinkbombs – they’re asked by some distant bozo if they’ve considered chivvying their persecutors into a carry-cage and dropping them off at a nice farm.

(Side note: The myth of the ‘nice farm’ is a hypnotic one. We once had a terrifying sheepdog called Ginger who had a mean streak a mile wide; he used to chase and bite us when we walked home from the school bus. It was like being walked home by Cujo. One day, we came home and Ginger was gone. Dad told me that Ginger had gone to live on a nice farm. It took about 10 years before the realisation crystallised that we lived on a nice farm.)

The PETA lady’s words, of course, became an opening for Nationals leader Michael McCormack to sound off about inner-city latte sippers; in parliament, he suggested that the creatures be rehomed into the apartments of animal rights activists so that their children could be bitten at night.

(Look, in Mr McCormack’s defence, he was at the time holding off a challenge from former leader Barnaby Joyce, who is himself in some respects not unlike Mus musculus, in that he’s very difficult to eradicate humanely and is a surprisingly prolific breeder.)

But calling on the gods to send mice to bite the children of your opponents is... not very grown up, is it?

And that’s the greatest demand that living on the land makes of you, in the end, I reckon. You have to be a grown-up. Which means coming to peace with your own helplessness, sometimes, in the face of natural forces that are bigger than you, even when they are tiny rodents.

This is a bloody tough lesson to learn; it involves humility and strength and humour. I have met city people who are very clever and highly educated and successful in their own lives but who would struggle mightily if called upon to make peace with their own place in the natural universe. Come the Mousepocalypse, we shall know their names.

This is an extract from Growing Up in Country Australia, edited by Rick Morton ($29.99, Black Inc.), out now.

40 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

© EPE. Graceland and its marks are trademarks of EPE. All Rights Reserved. Elvis Presley™ © 2021 ABG EPE IP LLC.

PEOPLE K ATA M ATITE V IC The happy herd at How Now Dairy.

FACING PAGE Micro-dairy farmer Cathy with her daughter Mia, 18, mum Mary and GiGi the miniature dachshund.

QUIET REVOLUTION FORMER MUSIC INDUSTRY EXECUTIVE TURNED DAIRY FARMER CATHY PALMER IS ON A MISSION TO INTRODUCE AUSTRALIA TO THE CONCEPT OF ‘KIND MILK’.

WORDS SUE R A MSEY PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 43

PEOPLE K ATA M ATITE V IC Cathy and her ‘girls’ in the paddock.

FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT At How Now Dairy, the calves stay with their mums; a bovine beauty; How Now’s ‘kind milk’; Mary overcame her initial fear to get up close to Cathy’s cows.

WHEN CATHY PALMER STARTED How Now Dairy five years

ago at Congupna in northern Victoria, she knew one thing – she wanted to do dairy farming differently. She had just left her job in the music industry and was passionate about improving animal welfare. “The current practice in dairy is to remove a newborn calf within 24 hours,” explains Cathy. “These calves are kept in sheds and often fed powdered milk through machines and then sent to slaughter at five days old.” So she set out to create change by establishing a micro-dairy farm where calves could remain with their mothers, with the idea of ‘cow and calf should stay together’ as its central ethos.

“I bought the cows after much umming and ahhing because I didn’t know how to start,” says Cathy. Those 18 Jersey cows were all in calf and had four or five months to go. So Cathy began researching in earnest to see how she could do things in a kinder, more ethical way, with the aim of maximising animal health and wellbeing.

“When we started, the first girl had her calf and was fiercely protective,” she says. “So we just left her and the calf alone for two or three days.” Then when it came to milking, a ‘flat’ milking shed on the farm proved invaluable. “A lot of dairies have a pit, so you’re eyeballing the teats at that level,” explains Cathy. “But this was on the flat and the girls were on the same level as us, and it was just five little milking stations. So I carried the calf over and Mum just followed naturally. I popped the calf on the ground in front of Mum and milked her, and that was the beginning of How Now.

From that cow, I’ve never taught another cow into the system – they just teach each other and they’re amazing.”

In terms of managing the farm day to day, Cathy says she got lucky. “On the farm itself I’ve got two adorable brothers – John and Ken Trimby – who are both retired dairy farmers,” she says. When Cathy needed to move from the original property in Congupna, Ken offered to lease her part of his land near Katamatite. “So now the two brothers run the farm for me and they have those intergenerational skill sets that have been disappearing. They love the cows, they’re extremely patient, and the vet bills disappear.”

Cathy’s daughter Mia, 18, has also played an invaluable role in the business. “Mia’s been a trouper and she’s a little dynamo at the farmers’ markets,” says Cathy. Her mother, Mary, has also been very involved. “She helped buy cows for me and helped me when I had to move. Mum just believed this was a really important job I was doing. It does feel like a calling and Mum has been really supportive of that.”

How Now uses regenerative farming practices and has introduced developing technologies such as “nitratemunching bugs”, “rainmaking microbes” and a soil system to introduce new species. The cows roam on 40 hectares of natural pastures with access to lots of well-established trees.

“Because it’s been such an amazing season, the girls are living on the pastures, which is really great. We haven’t been able to do that for years,” says Cathy. “Because I don’t standardise the milk, you’ve got to manage that through what they eat. Spring pastures can make the milk smell >

“The heroes for me are always the cows. They have that faith in me to do the right thing.”

44 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

“I take the approach with my business of ‘it takes a village’.”

K ATA M ATITE V IC PEOPLE One of Cathy’s happy cows with her calf. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT How Now’s artisanal cheeses; farm managers Ken (left) and John Trimby; Mary with one of the cows; the herd feeds on lush pastures.

very grassy, so I balance that with a bit of dry matter in the paddock for them.” As a result of its farming practices, How Now’s milk contains zero antibiotics and is low in stress hormones, thanks to its contented cows.

At present, Cathy says How Now is one of only a handful of dairy farms in the world producing ‘kind milk’. Interest is growing, however price can be an issue. “I’ve watched people in the supermarket and they’ll buy their premium pasture-fed chicken, free-range eggs, crate-free pork, and then walk round the corner and grab their two litres of milk without blinking an eye,” she says. “We call it ‘white water’, except water’s more expensive – 600ml of water will cost you four dollars, but 600ml of milk, you’ll be lucky if it costs you a dollar.”

In addition to its ‘kind milk’, How Now has added cheese to its product range, with the help of two artisan cheesemakers – Jack Holman from Stone & Crow Cheese in the Yarra Valley, and Nardia Baxter from Goldfields Farmhouse Cheese in Ballarat. “I take the approach with my business of ‘it takes a village’,” says Cathy. “I don’t want to be buying a big manufacturing plant – I want this to be people coming in and taking ownership of different parts of it.”

In 2019, How Now Dairy was awarded the Banksia Small Business Award, and it was while preparing her application for this that Cathy became aware of the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals. “It gave me the opportunity to step out of my business and review it with

different eyes, to make further commitment and drive for my future goals,” she says. “I’m not perfect – I acknowledge this is a journey and funds play a big role. But I keep my application close and revisit it regularly.”

True to her original intentions, Cathy has kept her herd small. “I’m milking 53 at the moment,” she says. “I’ve got probably 100 total in my herd because I calve all year round, other than the heat. And I’ve got very mixed ages in my herd, which is unusual. Most dairy cows are done and dusted before they’re five or six, but I’ve got a cow, Narc, who’s got to be nearly 15, that we’ve talked about retiring for three years, but she keeps wanting to come back to the dairy.”

And Cathy’s ‘kind’ approach has reaped other benefits.

“My girls behave differently. There’s no rushing or running anywhere. I’ve learnt to walk very slowly these days – no arms waving around or loud sounds,” she says. “My golden rule is ‘ask the girls, don’t tell’ – this has become our mantra. And they pay me back in spades. If a cow is kicking in the dairy, there’s something wrong; if she doesn’t want to go somewhere it’s because she’s scared. So we need to work alongside them, respect them, and always treat them with kindness.

“The heroes for me are always the cows,” says Cathy. “They have that faith in me to do the right thing. I’m just speaking on their behalf a lot of the time. The beauty is in them.”

For more, visit hownowdairy.com.au or follow Cathy on Instagram @hownowdairyau

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 47

HARVEY NORMAN PRESENTS

SMALL SPACES HUGE POTENTIAL GET SMART IN A SMALLER SPACE. THESE FRESH PIECES FROM HARVEY NORMAN TAKE COMPACT CLEVERNESS TO A NEW LEVEL.

STOR AGE TIP:

CHOOSE AN ENTERTAINMENT UNIT WITH PLENTY OF DRAWERS AND STORAGE SPACES TO KEEP CLUTTER AT BAY.

“AN ARMCHAIR ADDS SEATING AND A STYLISH FOCAL POINT, WITHOUT

EDITOR’S PICK

YORK ARMCHAIR IN SILVER FABRIC $799.

H ARV E Y N OR MAN.COM.AU

APARTMENT LIVING

“Sofas, armchairs and TV units on slimmer legs will enhance the sense of visual space and airiness in a living room.”

ELLE LOVELOCK Editor in Chief, RealLiving and Home Beautiful

TUROSS 2.5-Seater Fabric Sofa $1399; 2-Seater Fabric Sofa $1199. Proudly Australian Made and upholstered in Vibe Ink Fabric; YORK Armchair upholstered in Silver Fabric $799; CONDO 2-Drawer Entertainment Unit (150.5cm) $649; XYLO Rug XL (250 x 350cm) $1729; TRIESTE Queen Bed in Grey Fabric (W175.5 x D243.5 x H125.5cm) $1699; CIRC Bedside Table in Black (W47 x D40 x H50cm) $349.

Furniture prices displayed are valid in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane metropolitan areas only.

Prices in other areas will be higher due to additional freight charges.

“A LUXURIOUS UPHOLSTERED BEDHEAD IS IDEAL FOR READING, GIVING YOU A COMFY ARMCHAIR AND BED IN ONE.” EDITOR’S PICK

BYRON 4-DRAWER QUEEN BED IN PROFILE ‘AMY’ SMOKE FABRIC $2999.

STOR AGE TIP:

THIS CLEVER BED BASE WITH FOUR GENEROUS DRAWERS IS THE PERFECT WAY TO CUT DOWN ON SPACE-SAPPING CLUTTER.

HARVEY NOR MA N.CO M.AU

APARTMENT LIVING

“A well-designed statement piece incorporating built-in storage helps you keep things neat and tidy - which always makes your bedroom feel bigger.”

TANYA BUCHANAN Editor in Chief, Belle and Australian House & Garden

BYRON 4-Drawer Queen Bed in Profile ‘Amy’ Smoke Fabric (W160 x D214 x H155cm) $2999; LUXE 1-Drawer Bedside Tables (W50 x D42 x H55cm) $199ea; PURE LINEN Queen Quilt Cover Set in Silver $199; PURE LINEN European Pillows in White $59.95 Pair; ATMOSPHERE Cushion in Rose (43 x 43cm) $69; SHAW Cushions in Charcoal and Silver (45 x 45cm) $49ea; ATMOSPHERE Throw in Rose (130 x 170cm) $99; MILLY Lamp $235; PROTEA TRIO Artwork (123 x 63cm) $299; MADRID 3-Piece Outdoor Dining Setting $999; PARADISE Square Cushion in Navy (W45 x H45cm) $49; ZAMORA Rug L (200 x 290cm) $1495.

“CHOOSE LIGHTER FABRICS FOR AN AIRIER AND MORE SPACIOUS FEELING IN YOUR LIVING AREA.” EDITOR’S PICK

ALMADA 3-SEATER IN GREY FABRIC $1499.

Featuring galvanised steel frame for strength.

“THIS COMPACT TABLE’S SLIM LEGS AND LIGHT-WOOD TONES HELP TO VISUALLY OPEN UP A SMALLER LIVING AREA.” EDITOR’S PICK

CONDO 100CM ROUND DINING TABLE $549; CONDO DINING CHAIR IN LIGHT GREY FABRIC $199EA.

HA RVEY NOR MAN.COM.AU

“THESE BEAUTIFUL OPEN SHELVES OFFER MAXIMUM STORAGE CAPACITY WITHIN A COMPACT, SPACE-SAVING FRAME.” EDITOR’S PICK

SMALL HOME

GWYN 4 SHELF DISPLAY UNIT $599.

ST YLE TIP:

WALL-MOUNTING YOUR TV FREES UP SPACE ON YOUR ENTERTAINMENT UNIT FOR THOSE SPECIAL PIECES.

“When one space has to cover off multiple functions, compact furniture styles are a brilliant investment. I would say they’re the key to living beautifully and efficiently.”

DORA PAPAS Editor, Better Homes and Gardens

ALMADA 3-Seater Fabric Sofa in Hampton Fog $1499; 2-Seater Fabric Sofa $1199 (not shown); CONDO 100cm Round Dining Table $549; CONDO Dining Chair in Light Grey Fabric $199ea; GWYN Round Lamp table (50cm) $199; GWYN 4-Shelf Display Unit (H120 x D35 x 150cm) $599; GWYN 2-Door Entertainment Unit (180cm) $799; PALM Floor Lamp (W41 x D41 x H158cm) $299; LILO Square Linen Cushion (W45 x H45cm) $49; KOBE Rug XL (250 x 350cm) $1729.

SAGE Queen Gas-lift Bed in Oat (W165 x D224.5 x H154cm) $1799; CHERIE Armchair in Linen (W83 x D82 x H89cm) $749; NALA Throw in Silver (127 x 152cm) $69; BUNBURY 2-Drawer Bedside Table (W58 x D43.5 x H52.4cm) $899; DAKOTA Lamp $129; GRACIE Queen Quilt Set in White $199; CALLIE Throw in Olive (130 x 210cm) $149; CALLIE Cushion in Olive (50 x 50cm) $69.95; CALLIE Cushion in Olive (40 x 60cm) $69.95; BASKET Rug L (190 x 290cm) $849.

SMALL HOME

ELLE LOVELOCK Editor in Chief, RealLiving and Home Beauttiful

HARVEY NOR MA N.CO M.AU

“Under-bed storage can almost double your bedroom’s storage capacity.

Choose a bed with a gas-li base, which gives you a convenient storage spot for your bedding and so much more.”

“THE SIMPLE HANDLES KEEP THE STORAGE SPACE WELL CONCEALED.” EDITOR’S PICK

SAGE QUEEN GAS-LIFT BED IN OAT $1799.

STOR AGE TIP:

GAS-LIFT BEDS GIVE YOU THE PERFECT STORAGE PLACE FOR EXTRA SHEETS, PILLOWS AND DUVETS.

“A LOW-PROFILE BEDSIDE TABLE ELEVATES THE PERCEPTION OF A HIGHER CEILING.” EDITOR’S PICK

BUNBURY 2-DRAWER BEDSIDE TABLE $899.

SMALL HOME

ST YLE TIP:

NARROWER DINING TABLES CAN MORE EASILY SLOT INTO A COMPACT AREA, YET STILL OFFER PLENTY OF SEATING SPACE.

“An extension table is so versatile - ideal for compact dining areas. When closed they save so much space, but offer a seat for everyone when guests arrive.”

KYLIE IMESON Ed i to r, Country Style

NEVADA 3-Drawer Entertainment Unit (180cm) $1699; RIVERLAND Timber Extension Dining Table (180-280cm) $1999; MANILA Timber Dining Chair in White with Natural Rattan (also available in Oak-look & Black Timber with Natural Rattan) $229ea; SICILY 4-Seater Fabric Sofa upholstered in Garden Fabric $1699 and 3-Seater Fabric Sofa $1399; KIRO Set of 2 Marble Top with Calcutta Marble Look Film & Metal Base Nesting Tables $999; TRANSLUCENT Square Linen Cushion (W45 x H45cm) $49; BANANA TREE 200cm Potted Plant $549.95; GARCIA Rug L (200 x 290cm) $1849.

HA RVE Y NO R MAN.COM.AU

“CHOOSE A LOW-BACKED SOFA IN AN OPENPLAN ROOM, SO IT WON’T LOOK BULKY AND REDUCE THE PERCEPTION OF SPACE.” EDITOR’S PICK

SICILY 4-SEATER FABRIC SOFA $1699.

Featuring sleek, minimalist arms supported by the strength of a galvanised steel frame.

“THESE NESTING TABLES TUCK NEATLY AWAY WHEN THEY’RE NOT NEEDED BUT GIVE YOU EXTRA SPACE FOR DRINKS WHEN GUESTS POP ROUND.” EDITOR’S PICK:

KIRO SET OF 2 MARBLE TOP WITH CALCUTTA MARBLE LOOK FILM & METAL BASE NESTING TABLES $999.

STOR AGE TIP:

CHOOSE AN OUTDOOR KITCHEN WITH PLENTY OF STORAGE MODULES, GIVING YOU THE PERFECT PLACE TO STORE AWAY DINNERWARE AND YOUR BBQ TOOLS.

“A SIMPLE SETTING WITH 2-4 CHAIRS IS THE IDEAL RELAXATION SPOT ON A COMPACT BALCONY.” EDITOR’S PICK

ARO 5-PIECE OUTDOOR DINING SETTING $1999.

HA RVE Y NOR MA N.COM.AU SHOP ONLINE WITH YOUR LOCAL STORE HN.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 464 278. HARVEY NORMAN STORES ARE OPERATED BY INDEPENDENT FRANCHISEES. SOME ITEMS REQUIRE ASSEMBLY. LOUNGES ARE UPHOLSTERED IN PROMOTIONAL LEATHERS AND FABRICS. OTHER OPTIONS MAY BE AVAILABLE AT ADDITIONAL COST. PROMOTION ENDS 31/05/22.

SMALL HOME

“In a small outdoor dining space, it’s all about keeping thoroughfares open and the view accessible.”

ELIZA O’HARE Editor, Inside Out

ARO 5-Piece Outdoor Dining Setting $1999; LONGREACH AustralianMade Cabinetry with BEEFEATER 1600 5-Burner BBQ and BEEFEATER 2-Door Beverage Cooler $8999; MONSTERA Square Cushion (W45 x H45cm) $34.95; ARECA PALM 190cm Potted Plant $499.95; MONSTERA 100cm Potted Plant $149.95.

THI ECT FOR LUNCH ALFRESCO, HAS BEEN GENTLY RESTORED. WORDS PENN Y CA R ROLL PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON ST YLING BELLE HEMMING

Chooks and cute rabbits hop about in the Fraser family’s back garden. The roof of the cottage was replaced with Zincalume and the exterior refreshed in Dulux Antique White with a Vivid White trim. FACING PAGE The picturesque back deck is the perfect setting for a feast of fresh bread, local produce and wine.

DRY DIGGINGS V IC HOME

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 61

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE The wisteria vine sends wafts of fragrance through the house; Ben and Sarah found an antique dresser in a second-hand store and transformed it into a kitchen sink; spring blooms add colour in the garden. FACING PAGE An Esse Ironheart wood-fired stove suits this heritage home. The blackwood table belonged to Ben’s great-grandmother, while the copper pots and pans were passed down from Ben’s mother. “She was an amazing cook and showed her love through the food she made,” says Sarah.

WITH ITS SIMPLE, SQUARE FOOTPRINT, stone chimneys

and ironbark floors, this tiny cottage in Victoria’s Central Highlands has barely changed since it was built in the late 1800s. More than a century later, Sarah and Ben Fraser’s sensitive renovation has ensured it’ll stay a time capsule for years to come. “There’s something magic about the sense of history at the property,” says Sarah, 36. “It’s like stepping into another world.”

That time-warp quality is what won over Sarah, an artist, and 34-year-old Ben, a horticulturalist, when they discovered the cottage in the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it township of Dry Diggings in 2018. The couple were looking to buy in the region, drawn to the vibrant arts scene and Sarah’s family connections in Daylesford, but were having little luck finding a home.

“One day I was on my way out to have a look at another property, which was out of our budget and had all these issues,” Sarah recalls. “I happened to see a ‘for sale’ sign on the road to turn off to this cottage, and it was instant…

We put in an offer and it was accepted that day.”

The cottage was “wildly dilapidated” and hidden behind a thick screen of overgrown ivy, but Ben and Sarah could see its charm. “We just loved it, it’s so original,” Sarah says.

“And it’s quite a unique package on almost a hectare, with a really old orchard – some of the apple trees are over 100 years old. There was so much opportunity for us to play.” >

DRY DIGGINGS V IC HOME

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 63

HOME DRY DIGGINGS V IC Sarah and Ben discovered the original stone fireplace beneath a modern façade in the living room, and later installed a pot-belly wood heater for warmth in winter.

When choosing the interior palette, Sarah drew on the colours of the bush with Dulux Congo Brown and Hog Bristle. FACING PAGE Ben, Sarah and little Ollie relax on the deck, sheltered by the pergola. They love their garden, which features old ornamental trees such as capital pears, silver birch and claret ash.

“We couldn’t bring ourselves to modernise anything.”

The couple, who met at art school in their early 20s, love restoring historic properties together – they’ve previously renovated old homes in Melbourne and the Dandenong Ranges, as well as refitting a campervan. But this cottage was “quite a transition”, not least because of its humble size. “We thought maybe we could extend, but we’re more interested in breathing life into spaces and restoring the honest heritage of a place,” Sarah explains. “We just wanted to keep it as is.”

That meant cramming life into just three of the cottage’s four compact rooms while they renovated one space at a time, like a real-life game of Tetris. And there were many surprises to challenge their resolve, like mushrooms growing in the mouldy bathroom, crumbling mortar in the stone fireplaces, windows that were nailed permanently shut, and a badly sloping floor.

The problems were so big that one builder recommended waiting for a hot day and lighting a match. But this was a house that had already defied fire – it’s one of only a few buildings that survived a blaze that destroyed the bustling goldmining town of Dry Diggings in 1906 – and Sarah and Ben were determined to see its resilience rewarded.

“The house isn’t stumped like it should be in 2022, but the ironbark floorboards are original from the late 1800s and their patina is absolutely amazing,” Sarah explains.

“The tongue-and-groove ceilings, and the old glass in the windows – we just couldn’t bring ourselves to modernise anything. It’s part of the story.”

The cottage’s story is certainly eye-opening: it was originally owned by the town’s postmaster and publican Thomas Avison and his wife Mary, who had a scandalous history involving an affair, an attempted murder, jail time and a very public divorce.

With this colourful background in mind, Sarah and Ben focused on restoring rather than updating. Making the most of Ben’s carpentry skills, they resurfaced the floor and replicated the original skirting boards throughout.

After removing a ’90s façade that covered the original fireplace in the living room, they had a local stonemason repoint both chimneys, a process that revealed long-lost treasures such as old silverware, a wishbone and the original metal wheel used to frame the arch.

The bathroom had to be completely gutted, but they kept its layout, including its small window, the same. >

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 65

DRY DIGGINGS V IC HOME The bedroom lies behind romantic linen curtains from Lumio Studio. Sarah cut up panels of wallpaper (‘Flora Hysterica’ by Martin Bergström) and Ben made frames to create the dramatic mural. “I love being more playful and relaxed in this house,” Sarah says of their styling choices. The round Petunia rug is from Armadillo.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 67

And in the kitchen, they cleverly converted an antique dresser into a sink and workspace, then added a woodfired stove and hanging rails for pots and pans.

Their aim, Sarah says, was to create a space for slow pleasures, like listening to the fire crackle as you soak in the bath. There’s no TV or dishwasher; the bedroom is separated from the living area with linen curtains; and the stove needs to be lit to cook a meal. It’s also why she chose a palette of dark shades. “Our priorities were romance and history, and the colours echo that,” Sarah says. “The space is dark because it’s got very small windows – that’s how houses were designed to stay cool – so instead of trying to fight against that, we wanted to work with it. Strangely, it’s made the place feel so much bigger. There are just pools of light, and it definitely contributes to the atmosphere.”

Similarly, in such a small space, every item brought into the home had to be carefully considered. Heirlooms passed down from Ben’s family, such as copper pots from his beloved late mother Raewyn, and a table that once belonged to his great-grandmother, add meaning.

The cottage is now ready for the next chapter of its story – and, after welcoming their baby Ollie a year ago, so are the Frasers. Admitting they’ve outgrown the tiny space, they’re now looking for a new nest. No doubt it will be hard to let go. “It’s like a hug,” says Sarah of their cosy cottage.

“It’s just a good feeling. You don’t want to leave here.”

DRY DIGGINGS V IC HOME Bushland surrounds the cottage, and kangaroos often pay a visit. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The original stone chimneys still stand; Sarah loves the bathroom, with its timber panelling painted in Dulux Congo Brown and Porter’s Paints Castelvetrano.

“It creates a very mindful experience when you’re having a bath and watching the light from the fire dancing on the high-gloss tiles,” she says; a special collection of domes, vases and lamps in the bedroom.

“There’s something magic about the sense of history at the property. It’s like stepping into another world.”

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 69

GET THE LOOK 1

2 3

OLD MEETS NEW PRESERVE HISTORY WITH ANTIQUES AND SOLID FURNITURE. PRODUCED BY SA FFRON SY LV ESTER

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1 R chester buffet and hutch in Natural, $5499, from Provincial Home ng. 2 Resin flow small spice dish in Light Horn, $50, from Dinosaur gns. 3 Castelvetrano paint, $64 (1L), from Porter’s Paints. 4 Mauviel opper saucepan, from $385, from Williams Sonoma. 5 Middle of owhere Bjorn brass mirror, $504, from Life Interiors. 6 Abigail asional chair in Olive Velvet, $1543, from Allissias Attic. 7 European ver Village painting, $295, from Vintage Art Emporium. 8 Vintage Bulb Design Drop Lighting 1 light rope pendant light fixture for bar Brown, $25.87, from Litfad. 9 Edison-style antique brass fitting htbulb, from $76, from Edison Light Globes. 10 Vivi rattan and oak ffee table, POA, from Cotswold InOut Furniture. 11 AGA eR7 Series 0 oven in Linen, $25,159, from AGA Australia. 12 Flora Hysterica ural, $89 (per sqm), from Natty and Polly. 13 Perrin & Rowe Ionian wo-hole bench-mounted mixer with white porcelain levers and set legs, POA, from The English Tapware Company. 14 Hans-Agne Jakobsson L-47 oil lamp, $2268.17, from 1st Dibs.

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10 70 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

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HARVEY NORMAN PRESENTS

THE

E A S T E R

Feast

blend blit z purée

Create a delicious Easter menu with the latest kitchen appliances f rom Harvey Norman

SMEG BLENDER – PASTEL BLUE (BLF01PBAU), $299.

FROZEN NEGRONI FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

perfect pizza pronto

CROWD PLEASER

CREATE

authentic woodf ired PIZZA IN AS LITTLE AS TWO MINUTES IN THE BREVILLE PIZZAIOLO BENCHTOP OVEN

THE DOUBLE-PANE HEAT-RESISTANT FRONT WINDOW AND INSULATED HEAT CHAMBER ENSURE A HOT INTERIOR BUT COOL EXTERIOR SURFACE

NAPOLITANA PIZZA FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES

Transport guests to Italy. The Breville Pizzaiolo Benchtop Oven makes it easy to cook woodfired pizza everyone will love.

The compact countertop oven can reach temperatures of 400°C with specific heating settings to ensure an even, classic char finish. The design replicates the heat of a traditional brick oven so the base maintains perfect crispness, the crust develops a signature ‘leopard spot’ and convective heat ensures perfectly melted and baked toppings. Buon appetito.

BREVILLE THE SMART OVEN PIZZAIOLO BENCHTOP OVEN (BPZ820BSS), $999.

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

L I G H T

starters air-f ry, cook, grill – CREATE RESTAURANT QUALITY SEAFOOD DISHES WITH INNOVATIVE TEFAL EASY FRY & GRILL AIR FRYER

GET OUTSTANDING GRILL RESULTS IN MINUTES

MIXED SEAFOOD PLATTER FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES

If you haven’t yet succumbed to the mouth-wateringly healthy results from an air fryer, now is the time. The new Tefal Easy Fry & Grill Air Fryer also offers dual functionality to make it a hard-working kitchen essential. With high-quality design and features, it offers superior performance compared to budget air fryers. Features include adjustable temperature control, die-cast aluminium grill for tender meat and vegetables, plus a built-in timer to manage cooking times.

TEFAL EASY FRY & GRILL AIR FRYER (EY5058), $349.

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

slice dice blend knead

Main EVENT

MAKE FAST WORK OF

puréeing, blending and slicing WITH THE POWERFUL KITCHENAID FOOD PROCESSOR

FOREQUARTER OF LAMB WITH CHICKPEA CREAM AND FENNEL & CUCUMBER SALAD FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES

Preparing and cooking for a large Easter celebration is easier with the KitchenAid 13-Cup Food Processor. Generous capacity allows for large quantities of ingredients while the convenient 3-in-1 wide mouth feed tube and hinged lid let you add more ingredients while working.

Comes with a multi-purpose blade, dicing kit, dough blade, and reversible fine and medium shredding discs.

KITCHENAID 13-CUP FOOD PROCESSOR – BLACK MATTE (5KFP1319ABM), $449.

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

H O M E M A D E

treats MAKE

light work OF THESE HOT CROSS BUNS THANKS TO THE SMEG HAND MIXER WITH A DEDICATED DOUGH HOOK

SOUR-CHERRY HOT CROSS BUNS FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES

Prepare a huge range of recipes handily with the retro-styled Smeg Hand Mixer.

Featuring nine different speeds and an LED display on the handle to show the settings and timing, it’s easy to control your output and mix quickly and thoroughly.

Comes with a pair of whisks, aluminium flat beaters and dough hooks to allow diverse preparation options. An intuitive automatic smooth-start option also helps to reduce splatter as you begin mixing.

SMEG HAND MIXER – PASTEL BLUE (HMF01PBAU), $209.

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

whip whisk knead

grind ext r act froth

Sweet

FINALE

Barista-style coffee IS READY TO SERVE WITH DESSERT THANKS TO THE JURA E8 AUTOMATIC COFFEE MACHINE

CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUT CAKE WITH ESPRESSO GANACHE FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES

As we spend more and more time at home, preparing quality coffee for you and your guests is more important than ever. The Swiss-made Jura E8 offers flawless grinding, state-of-the-art brewing technology and feather-light milk foaming as well as an enviable range of automated features to make 17 different coffee types. This unit also includes a handy automated milk cleaning system.

JURA E8 DARK INOX COFFEE MACHINE (E8INOX), $2390.

Jura milk jug is sold separately.

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

SHOP ONLINE WITH YOUR LOCAL STORE HN.COM.AU/SMALLAPPLIANCES OR CALL 1300 464 278.

HARVEY NORMAN STORES ARE OPERATED BY INDEPENDENT FRANCHISEES. PROMOTION ENDS 24/04/2022.

HOME ROCK H A MPTON QLD

Natalie’s happy place is her kitchen, which looks out onto the garden.

TH E COOK’S HOM E

CATERER NATALIE MUELLER’S ROCKHAMPTON HOUSE IS FILLED WITH ART, FABRICS AND COOKWARE COLLECTED DURING HER TRAVELS. WORDS CLA IR E M ACTAGGA RT PHOTOGRAPHY H A NNA H PUECHM A R IN ST YLING CHERY L CA R R

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 83

HOME ROCK H A MPTON QLD

Palm trees and wicker furniture add a touch of the tropics to the terrace. FACING PAGE, FROM LEFT The pear paintings are by Natalie’s daughters, Briony and Kiana, while the Charlie Mackesy print was gifted by a friend. The portrait art is also by Briony. Natalie purchased her trusty KitchenAid appliance in Germany 29 years ago; the rear verandah is a favourite spot for Natalie and her seven-year-old cocker spaniel, Marley.

NATALIE MUELLER’S GALLEY-STYLE KITCHEN is the heart

of her home in Rockhampton, Queensland. Spices, oils and cookbooks collected during her travels are in easy reach and a beloved set of copper pots hangs gleaming by the six-burner stovetop. “Everything revolves around food here,” says the 52-year-old, who owns local business Olive Catering. “This kitchen works beautifully and it’s a lovely communal space.”

The light-filled kitchen, at the rear of the house and overlooking a terraced garden, has been the gathering point for Natalie and her three children over the past eight years. Whenever they’re home, Briony, 23 (who is now studying in Brisbane), Yanik, 20 (studying in Townsville), and 16-year-old Kiana can usually be found on the sofa catching up on news while Natalie prepares a meal made with fresh, local ingredients.

With a high, pressed-metal ceiling and shaded by a sprawling poinciana tree, the kitchen is also a favourite spot for Natalie to sit in the late afternoon with a cup of tea, a notepad and reference book to plan for her next catering event, whether it’s a winter racing carnival, wedding or corporate function.

Her food journey began in Yeppoon, where she grew up.

“My mum does beautiful food styling and is a wonderful Margaret Fulton-style cook,” she says. When Natalie turned 13, she landed her first job at Jodie’s Restaurant, a local favourite. “The restaurant had a European influence and the owners encouraged me to head overseas,” she recalls.

Natalie studied hotel management and then took their advice, heading to the UK to work at Chewton Glen Hotel in Hampshire for nine months. She later moved to Frankfurt, where she taught business English to bankers, which allowed her to travel and spend six weeks each year in northern Italy, a place that became a source of culinary inspiration.

“Back then, people were buying shoes and handbags and I was buying knives!” she says. “When I came back [to Australia] from Europe, my suitcase was full of cooking goods and French linen.”

Natalie returned to Yeppoon with her three children and later moved closer to their school in Rockhampton, some 40 kilometres west. In 2014, a friend mentioned this house for sale on the Range.

It was the Edna Walling-style garden that initially wowed Natalie. “The estate agent said to walk up into the back garden while we waited [for them]. Of course, I thought, ‘Oh, my goodness’ without even looking at the house. There was a beautiful old mulberry and a bay tree, and flowers that I had never seen before, as well as a chicken coop,” she says.

The early 1900s-era house was being sold via a tender process. But Natalie popped a handwritten note in with her offer to the owners, explaining that her family was in love with the house and the children had already picked out their bedrooms.

The personal touch paid off. “We may not have been the highest bidder, but it was important to them [the owners] to know how much we loved it,” Natalie says. >

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 85

HOME ROCK H A MPTON QLD The living room holds books and ornaments from abroad. FACING PAGE, FROM TOP A framed photo bought in Katoomba, NSW, hangs above an antique French chair. The Wedgwood plates were a Marketplace find, while the Cabbageware is by Dee Muir Designs in Rockhampton; Natalie purchased the linen lamp in Provence, France, while the vintage artworks above her bed are from Dee Muir Designs.

The large floral piece is from Early Settler.

86 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

The former owners, who were both artists, had left their mark on the house – a flying manta ray sculpture suspended from the ceiling is made of the original plumbing pipes and there is a separate art studio tucked away in the backyard, which is now Kiana’s bedroom.

Many happy years have passed in their high-set, fivebedroom home. Natalie and her family have celebrated numerous important milestones here, including their house-warming, Natalie’s ‘I survived a heart operation’ party, gourmet dinners and birthdays. “It’s so easy to entertain here,” she says.

With the house’s generous scale, large garden and rear verandah off the kitchen, there are plenty of places to catch up with friends, watch outdoor movies or enjoy time alone.

“There are so many moments in this house and places you can go to,” adds Natalie. “It’s very welcoming and warm.

Texture and colour is important; I’ve been drawn to traditional French style for a long time, with charcoal, grey and blues.”

Everything in Natalie’s home has meaning or evokes a memory, such as the handmade timber wall ducks created by her friend Margie Fleming; the children’s artworks in the kitchen; vintage linen from Italy; and linen lampshades from France. Natalie continues to travel and bring furnishings and food ideas back to Rockhampton. Even during the pandemic, she managed to travel to Tasmania.

In the early days of lockdown in 2020, Natalie and her neighbours pooled materials and built a shared chicken coop which they can all access to feed the hens and collect eggs.

Natalie is currently rebuilding her vegie garden and plans to open the downstairs area of her home to guests, with a food focus. “This house has provided a beautiful place to bring up the children, while combining my love of European style and creating unique dining experiences,” she says.

For more information, follow Natalie on Instagram @thelittleolivecafe ABOUT THE HOUSE:

• Natalie sources bedding from Libeco Belgian Linen,

libecohomestores.eu; Merci Paris, @merciparis; Hale Mercantile Co; and H&M Home.

For bespoke recycled furniture, she heads to Arthouse Restore, @arthouse_restore Natalie painted her bedroom in Porter’s Paints Gunmetal Grey: “Porter’s Paints age so beautifully.”

Rockhampton store HB & Co, hbandco.com.au, is a favourite for finding unique decor, while The Something Different Shop, @thesomethingdifferentshop, stocks lovely soaps and clothing.

Some of Natalie’s favourite Tasmanian stores include: The Evandale Village Store, thevillage.store; The Drill Hall Emporium, thedrillhall.com.au; and Black Swan Bookshop in New Norfolk, @black_swan_tasmania

• • • •

Afternoon tea is served on the balcony. FACING PAGE, FROM LEFT Natalie adds the final touch to her orange and macadamia cake; the kitchen contains many treasured items, such as the wooden ducks on the wall made by her friend.

“There are so many moments in this house and places that you can go to.

It’s very welcoming and warm.”

ROCK H A MPTON QLD HOME

NAT’S ORANGE AND MACADAMIA CAKE

This is a great recipe for those who don’t eat gluten if you use gluten-free baking powder. It’s based on the traditional orange and almond cake – only the almonds have been swapped out for macadamia. You can also try walnuts. You can purchase the nuts whole and grind to your desired texture. It’s a very moist cake, so it makes a good dessert with a lovely dollop of cream and a drizzle of the syrup.

THE CAKE

2 large oranges 65g softened butter 1 cup brown sugar 5 eggs 21⁄2 cups ground macadamias 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

THE SYRUP

½ cup orange juice

½ cup water 1 cup brown sugar 1 orange, sliced into ½cm slices ½ cup macadamias, lightly crushed

Place the oranges in a pot of boiling water. Cover and let them simmer for 1 hour or until they are very soft.

Place the oranges in a food processor and puree until fine, then scrape into a bowl and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 160oC. Place butter and sugar in a bowl and beat until light and creamy.

Then add the eggs one at a time while beating.

Next add the ground macadamias, the baking powder, vanilla bean paste and the pureed orange. Beat until smooth; only a minute is needed.

Grease a 20cm round tin (you can also use cupcake tins), then

pour the mixture into the tin.

Bang the tin on the bench to let any air bubbles escape.

Bake for around 45 minutes or until you insert a skewer in the centre and it comes out clean.

SYRUP To make the syrup, place the orange juice, water and sugar in a saucepan and let it bubble gently.

Place the orange slices into the syrup mixture and allow them to soak up the syrup as it becomes thicker.

Turn the orange slices so they are coated on both sides.

Boil for around 10 minutes.

Place the cake on a cake stand, top with the orange slices and macadamias, and pour the remaining syrup over the cake.

Decorate with fresh flowers, lavender or rosemary. Enjoy with some nice thick cream and a dusting of icing sugar.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 89

HOME W INCHELSEA V IC Floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors open up the living area in summer, while warmth is guaranteed in winter thanks to the cast-iron Cheminées Philippe fireplace.

Wall art by Sophie Lawrence.

INVITE THE LIGHT SUSTAINABILITY WAS KEY WHEN BUILDER STEVEN WADE AND HIS WIFE, MARGARET, CREATED THEIR NEW HOME. WORDS A BBY PFA HL PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON ST YLING BELLE HEMMING

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 91

WHEN BUILDER STEVEN WADE WAS YOUNG, many of his

weekends were spent in wide-open spaces, visiting family on their wheat and sheep property near Mount Arapiles in Victoria. The seeds of a country dream were sown in those formative years, and flourished a few decades later when he married Margaret – a passionate cook, wonderful entertainer and lover of nature.

Steve and Marg, both now in their 50s, happily raised their children – Jacob, 30, and Emily, 28 – in Melbourne, while their business, Wade Builders, went from strength to strength. But over the years, the traffic on Steve’s daily commute became heavier, often meaning hours in the car to get to building sites. In a simple but strategic move, the pair decided to shift the direction of Wade Builders and began to accept clients away from Melbourne, towards Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula and the Surf Coast.

It was then that the possibility of a tree-change came into focus. “Everything was telling us it was time to take the next step in our lives,” says Marg. “We wanted to build a family home that could accommodate our adult children when they wanted to come and stay, and to provide a great place for our grandchildren to grow and play.”

After many weekends of driving around the countryside, the couple stumbled across land for sale in the small village of Winchelsea. The 13-hectare block by the Barwon River, with its undulating grasslands and the majestic Otways in the distance, struck a chord with them both

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and they purchased it in 2018. They set about planning a house right away, with their environmental footprint at the forefront of their minds. “We have always adored being outdoors and Steve loves reading and listening to podcasts about regenerative farming,” explains Marg. “We felt like the block of land gave us a clean slate – we could really think about how to be more sustainable. Having grandchildren also inspired us to want a cleaner way of life and, hopefully, lead by example.”

Thanks to his experience in the industry, Steve handpicked a group of experts to kickstart their plans. Holman Designs worked with Marg and the Wade Builders team on incorporating elements such as thermal efficiency into their drafting.

North-facing, double-glazed timber windows were included to maximise both views to the river and passive heating of the concrete slab floor. A shed was built to facilitate the 10-kilowatt solar and battery system. The roof of the shed and the house was designed to capture water which would fill the 100,000-litre rainwater tanks.

Also in the brief was a farmhouse kitchen and pantry with plenty of space for Marg to cook and entertain, as well as an orchard and multiple raised vegetable patches for the couple to grow their own produce. Landscape architect Tim Nicholas was hired to plan the gardens.

Of course, like all projects, the design wasn’t without its challenges. Extreme winds on the property meant extra >

W INCHELSEA V IC HOME

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE Bushland print from Warranbrooke; Steve and Marg with grandson Billy and Marg’s orphaned lambs, Paddy, Rosie, Finn and Annie; grandpa Steve cuddles Billy; the living area’s recycled brick walls contrast with the polished concrete floor; a stylish nook for storage and essentials; the home sits on 13 hectares of grassland.

FACING PAGE The Wade clan: Steve, grandson Billy, 18 months, daughter Emily, Margaret, granddaughter Grace, 15 months, son Jacob and his partner Rebecca.

“We wanted to build a family home… and provide a place for our grandchildren to grow and play.”

HOME W INCHELSEA V IC Marg loves cooking and entertaining in the expansive open-plan kitchen and living area, while beloved German shorthaired pointer Jed waits patiently for a tasty treat.

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ABOUT THE HOUSE:

• The T-shaped design of the building, drafted by

Holman Designs, allows for sheltered outdoor entertaining whichever way the wind is blowing.

Both the interior and exterior of the house are painted in Dulux Natural White.

Mel Wilson Interiors worked with Steve and Marg to create a modern farmhouse feel inside.

The Cheminées Philippe Radiante 873 cast-iron fireplace sits on a formed concrete hearth, which doubles as a wood box and seating area.

Steve handmade the sliding barn door entrance to the powder room.

Tapware throughout the house is by Astra Walker.

Brass door handles are by Tradco. Cabinet hardware is sourced from Lo and Co Interiors in the kitchen, and The Society Inc in the mud room and laundry.

• • • • •

W INCHELSEA V IC HOME

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE Timber panels and bricks add a rustic touch; Grace and Billy enjoy the garden; the laundry cabinet pulls are by The Society Inc; the powder room’s slick tiles and Astra Walker tapware contrast with Steve’s handmade sliding door; the T-shaped house provides shelter from the wind; a view to the walk-in robe through to the ensuite. FACING PAGE Calming neutral tones work nicely in the master bedroom, which features a photographic print, Wild Horses, by Kara Rosenlund.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 97

HOME W INCHELSEA V IC FROM LEFT Paddocks and distant hills can be glimpsed throughout the house; in the bathroom, a luxurious tub is positioned to take in the serene views. FACING PAGE The house’s unobtrusive exterior is designed to make the most of its bushland setting.

“Having grandchildren inspired us to want a cleaner way of life.” attention needed to be placed on creating shelter. Marg and Steve spent a few weekends living in the shed, which was built first, so they could observe the weather patterns and wind. “We knew we needed a house that could provide us with outdoor spaces to entertain and sit and enjoy the views, no matter which direction the wind was blowing,” says Marg. A clever T-shaped design provided a smart solution and the building commenced in March 2020.

The finished house is clad in white-painted concrete weatherboards that contrast with the exposed recycledbrick walls and areas of raw timber panelling. The resulting modern farmhouse feel is echoed by the pitched Zincalume roof and continued inside the home. Mel Wilson Interiors’ white-on-white colour scheme, with the occasional sea-green accent, lends a fresh feel to the light-filled rooms, while brass fittings and textured tiles hint at a more classic country aesthetic. The Cheminées Philippe cast-iron fireplace at the heart of the living space makes it perfect for soaking up warmth in winter.

Marg and Steve finally moved into their house in June last year. “The home is exactly what we wanted it to be: relaxed, easy to maintain and, above all, a great place to enjoy with family and friends,” says Marg.

But the couple’s new lifestyle is about more than just the building. “Every morning when we wake up to that

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breathtaking view, we have to pinch ourselves [to remind us] that this is really where we live,” says Marg. “We never tire of the wildlife, especially the black cockatoos that fly past, and the river red gums that surround us.”

The duo relishes the slower pace that country life brings and the flourishing garden provides a sanctuary for them both. “We find ourselves stepping outside to water or weed or enjoy a wine and, next thing, we’ve been out there for hours,” Marg says, laughing. “Needless to say, dinner can sometimes be at 9pm! But we don’t have any time constraints, so it’s perfect.”

Steve is also relishing the rural lifestyle. He has joined the local Landcare group and has been helping to remove blackberries and gorse bushes along the river. He also runs 65 dorper sheep on the property. Then there are Marg’s orphaned lambs – Paddy, Rosie, Finn and Annie – who live a little closer to home. “The new house is definitely lamb-friendly,” Marg says. “Over winter, we had all four little lambs inside by the fire being bottle-fed, often sharing the dog beds.”

Steve and Marg were delighted to host the entire extended family at Christmas. “We have certainly taken to country life,” says Marg. “We find ourselves not wanting to go anywhere – we just stop and enjoy everything we have here.”

DECOR ATING K ITCHENS Rugged masonry walls are perfectly complemented by a colossal antique stove in this house in Healesville, Victoria. White paint, plants and timber accessories keep the room light and bright.

hea r th an d sou l

THE COUNTRY KITCHEN IS A STILL CENTRE IN A TURNING WORLD WHERE COOKS RETREAT AND THE MAGIC HAPPENS. WORDS H A NNA H JA MES

PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON STYLING JEANINE GAGNON

Warm welcome

The much-loved country kitchen is a perennial favourite for a very good reason. With its white cupboards, wooden benchtops, vertical plate racks and wooden floorboards, it’s a snug, friendly place that encourages people to gather and find comfort in good company and delicious food. An antique wood-burning stove (see left) may be a behemoth, but – if you have space for it – will throw out warmth all winter long.

Meanwhile, the addition of a modern oven is perfect for precise cooking. >

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 101

DECOR ATING K ITCHENS

Colour is back in kitchens, but if you’re wary about committing to strong shades, blue is a guaranteed safe bet. Washy grey-blue cabinets give this weatherboard cottage on the Mornington Peninsula an appropriately nautical feel, while airy open shelving contrasts with solid concrete benchtops to create a casual, practical space. The centrepiece is the cast-iron Esse wood stove, which heats the room and injects a bolder shade of blue that won’t date.

Follow @sailorswhisk on Instagram. >

Colour is back in kitchens, and blue is a guaranteed safe bet.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON

Rhapsody in blue

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 103

DECOR ATING K ITCHENS

Island magic

PHOTOGRAPHY NICKI DOBRZYNSKI, CHRIS REEVE PHOTOGRAPHY

Your eyes do not deceive you: this room does, in fact, have two islands.

A large family and a love of cooking means this kitchen in the NSW Southern Highlands needs to work hard. The closest island, with its Super White Dolomite benchtop, has seating on both sides and so functions as a casual dining area, while the central island, handmade in oak by Reid Brothers, is the ideal workspace, allowing the cook to see what’s going on in the living room and on the stove. The brass and nickel rangehood was custom-made by Rivendale Copper, and has a pot filler below it.

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1 2

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4 3

VISUAL APPEAL

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ADD QUALITY APPLIANCES IN SOFT HUES FOR A HINT OF COLOUR.

5

PRODUCED BY SA R A H FA R AGO

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1 AM100 Majestic Series rangehood, $5299, from ILVE. 2 Concrete benchtop, from Concreate. 3 AGA eR7 100 oven in Dove, $25,159, from AGA Australia. 4 X-Pro Series 75cm fridge and trimode, $20,999; and X-Pro Series 60cm fridge and trimode, $18,999 (M3 Gold finish, additional cost), from Fhiaba. 5 Oval French oven cocotte in Brilliant White, $349, from Chasseur. 6 100% linen tea towel in Navy Stripe, $30, from In Bed Store. 7 Thistle European Oak flooring, from Woodcut. 8 Perrin & Rowe wall-mounted pot filler tap with traditional porcelain lever handle, from The English Tapware Company. 9 Henley double-fluted farmhouse sink, $734.90, from Abi Interiors. 10 Canvas mug in Milk, $31.95, from Robert Gordon. 11 Morphy Richards Accents Rose Gold pyramid kettle in Ocean Grey, $149, from Harvey Norman. 12 Professional Plus Series oven, $10,499, from ILVE. 13 Large salad bowl in Milk, $86.95, from Robert Gordon. 14 Rye stool in Natural, $279.95, from Provincial Home Living. 15 Walkerville Tide painting

by Lucy Hersey, $425, from the Cook Street Collective.

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TRA TOP PRIORI WIFE, EMILY, AT THEIR PROPERTY IN ORANGE, NSW. WORDS JESSICA BELLEF PHOTOGRAPHY MONIQUE LOV ICK

OR A NGE NSW GARDEN Sculptural dahlias are an annual favourite. FACING PAGE Ed and Emily enjoy time outdoors with their daughters Penny, 14, and Annabel, 12.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 107

GARDEN OR A NGE NSW

IN A TYPICAL RENOVATION timeline, gardens are tended

to after the main building is refreshed. However, the reinvention of the Swift family’s half-hectare plot in Orange, in the Central Tablelands of NSW, followed its own path. Emily Swift and her husband, Ed, purchased the property in 2013, and although their 100-year-old weatherboard house was uninsulated and falling apart, the couple directed their attention to the landscaping first.

“Everyone asked us why we were spending time on the garden, but I knew how long things could take to establish,” explains Emily, 45. “It was always our priority to start with the garden and then work backwards to the house. We knew this would be our forever home, so we wanted to do it right.”

Emily and Ed were drawn to the established trees and the fact that there was space for their daughters, Penny and Annabel, who were five and three at the time, to play, roam and grow. They also appreciated the property’s proximity to Printhie Wines, the winery that Ed’s parents established in 1996, where Ed, 46, manages the day-to-day operations alongside his brother Dave, and Emily oversees the marketing.

Back on the Swifts’ block in 2013, the task at hand was considerable. Wayward elm suckers restricted access to one side of the house, and the sloping grounds were pockmarked with duck ponds and a shamble of bird coops.

“It was really overgrown – we couldn’t get a sense of what the boundaries and elevations looked like,” Emily recalls.

It took them months to strip everything back, followed by extensive earthworks, trucking in 1000 tonnes of fill to turn the sloping site into a series of terraces and outdoor rooms. “A lot of work went into establishing the garden’s infrastructure,” Emily explains. “We had to get the terracing and irrigation set up, and we put in a bore.

We weren’t ready to start planting until 2015.”

The classical ideals of order and beauty effortlessly combine in the garden, bringing a European aesthetic to this patch of high-altitude land. “We are so lucky here in Orange because the cooler climate allows us to grow many European varieties of plants,” she adds. “We’re also very conscious of water usage, so we’ve interplanted with natives. I have a whole new appreciation for natives – there are many beautiful and incredibly resistant varieties.” >

108 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT Layers of greenery; many plants were grown from tube stock. “We were mindful of the budget for a garden this size,” Emily says; welcome home; boots for yard work; dreamy Bonica roses; tea time; the hydrangeas came from Emily’s grandmother.

“She passed away a year ago…

I love sitting here and having that connection with her,” she says; garden pots; “We have a lot of privacy here,” says Emily.

GARDEN OR A NGE NSW Emily and Ed’s travels through Europe inspired the garden structure and plant selection. Emily lists the cultivated grounds of the Palace of Castel Gandolfo and the stunning island oases on Lake Maggiore, both in Italy, as a source of creative direction. “We thought, ‘Why don’t we give this a go at home?’ ” she says. “Our next project is a fire pit and a pizza oven. And I want a potting shed with French doors.”

110 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

“It was always our priority to start with the garden and then work backwards to the house. We knew this would be our forever home.”

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’; Emily’s favourite flowers brighten outdoor living spaces; a quiet spot with enchanting views; delicate foxglove; the light, bright verandah is ideal for a relaxing morning coffee or entertaining; the home’s exterior is painted in Lexicon Quarter Strength by Dulux, and the doors are painted in Dulux Night Sky; potted herbs and petals; the family’s cute cavoodle, Hattie, enjoys games in the garden.

OR A NGE NSW GARDEN

Correa and grevillea brush up against camellias, rhododendrons and thriving hydrangeas that originated in Emily’s grandmother’s garden. The vegetable beds, constructed by Emily’s father, are slowly but surely producing more florals and fewer edibles as time passes.

“The vegie patch is turning into a cut flower garden.

I can’t help myself!” Emily says, chuckling.

The passionate gardener’s carefully planned rotation of growth ensures beautiful vignettes regardless of the season. “I’ve tried to design the garden so that we can appreciate it any time of year,” she says, adding that she thinks the best views are enjoyed from the verandah.

The homestead, renovated over six months beginning in November 2017, now sits proudly on the top of the hill, presiding over grassy terraces defined by Buxus hedge, blonde gravel, and impeccably groomed beds. “We wanted spaces that we could entertain in, and I love to think my daughters would want to get married here one day. The marquee lawn is ready for them!” Emily says with a laugh.

The showcase landscaping radiates a comfortable formality. It’s manicured but relaxed and inviting, and remains a source of calm. “I need to do something in the garden every day; it’s the way I decompress,” Emily says.

“It’s nonstop working in a family business, so I find gardening is my break from that.”

Printhie Wines is stronger for having weathered the COVID storm and the years of drought and bushfire prior.

They are putting the finishing touches on a new cellar door and restaurant as they continue adapting and innovating processes, and gaining international recognition. “Every day at Printhie Wines we are so focused on what the land is producing for us,” says Emily. “We focus on the vineyard’s health and sustainability, and get the best quality product from our vines. It all comes back to the soil.”

Was this perhaps the mindset that guided the family’s priority of establishing their garden haven at home?

“I think Ed and I have a very strong, innate connection to the land,” Emily says. “Having both grown up in the country, we respect the natural environment. It’s very grounding for us to keep that connection going when we come home. It’s our sense of place.”

For more, visit printhiewines.com.au

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 113

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DOWN THE GARDEN PATH

it’s a ga rden g u i nea-go -rou nd Fiona Weir Walmsley discovers her vegie patch is a hotbed of animal shenanigans.

IT ALL STARTED SO IDEALISTICALLY. There would be

a garden and there would be chickens. There would be ducks to keep the snails at bay. Useful farm cats and a friendly farm dog. I imagined peaceful and productive cohabitation, animals with purpose, and an abundant and organised garden. Hahaha.

There’s a cat eyeing my raised vegetable gardens as potential kitty litter right when I’m thinking about harvesting lunch. That is not okay. There’s a dog who ‘gardens’ along with me, with a pronounced penchant for herbs. He also has a great love of small plastic pots, which puts at risk any seedlings not yet planted. I lost a whole punnet of baby chives just last week.

I love my chooks, but if they catch even a glimpse of the vegie garden it devolves into a total riot… green leaves shredded, seedlings scratched out and shrivelled in the sun, mulch in every corner, holes in every single cucumber.

I have learnt that a chicken can mess up your perfectly formed garden beds in the time it takes you to run from inside your house to outside. But chicken damage pales into insignificance compared to the mess that ducks and geese can make with their sharp beaks and clumsy feet.

So. Much. Mess. Snails cause less damage.

Sometimes it’s not even my own poultry – I had next-door geese once, at another address, who destroyed not only garden beds but every single pot plant by my front door. Total terrorists.

The poultry fiasco at my place is not an ideal scenario, but I’ve seen worse. I once volunteered at a market garden at the back of Berry Mountain that had to deal with rampant wallabies and wombats. Whatever they tried, they couldn’t seem to fence them out, and the damage was expensive.

I’ve had friends who have dealt with bowerbirds by netting entire gardens, and I heard about someone locally who dealt with a destructive possum with a firearm.

We’ve had to fence our market garden against rabbits and there’s really nothing we can do about the fruit bats. (For the record, we don’t support the engagement of actual weaponry of any kind – it’s illegal, for one thing...)

The guineafowl love to wreak havoc in the garden.

Perhaps, right now, what kills me most of all is when I’m innocently attempting to harvest rhubarb and out of nowhere an otherworldly shrieking begins that would chill the blood of any living being. The guineafowl have decided to build a nest deep in the middle of the rhubarb bed. It’s completely hidden and the enormous rhubarb leaves keep out the rain. There’s always a guard guineafowl stalking the perimeter, but if your objective is rhubarb crumble, you may miss the beady-eyed warning before the sitting guineafowl hen gives it to you verbally.

Last time, I tossed my harvest knife in the air in terror and narrowly missed losing a finger on its descent. Life on the edge, I tell you!

But then the guinea pigs arrived. Lawnmowers, the children told me. Definitely all girls. We started with three and now there are seven… so that is just not true, people. These small creatures, though! They mow the lawn, they eat all the kale that has aphids on it, they love lettuce and spinach, and their biggest treat of all is milk thistle, which I seem to be growing a lot of in the lemon balm bed.

We recently introduced a second cage to keep the boys and girls apart, and I have to say, the guinea pigs may be my favourite integrated garden animal of all time. Their cages are easy for a child to move, and there is pellet-size fertiliser and green grass where the cages have been.

The guinea pigs never complain, they never escape, they don’t eat what they’re not supposed to eat and they make a cute squeaking noise when you feed them scraps. They can stay. (So can the guineafowl – just make sure you avoid the rhubarb patch, or at least, put the knife down first.)

Follow Fiona on Instagram @buenavistafarm

PHOTOGRAPHY FIONA WEIR WALMSLEY

“There’s always a guard guineafowl stalking the perimeter…”

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 115

FOOD COUNTRY CHEF

FARM-FRESH PRODUCE COOKED WITH CARE MAKES TEDESCA OSTERIA IN RED HILL, VICTORIA, A POPULAR DESTINATION FOR FRIENDS TO GATHER. WORDS MICH A EL H A R DEN, H A NNA H JA MES PHOTOGRAPHY PA R K ER BLA IN ST YLING LEE BLAY LOCK

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FOOD COUNTRY CHEF

LOCAL AND SEASONAL are increasingly popular

buzzwords in the restaurant industry, as chefs and diners alike discover the joys of ultra-fresh produce. But few take it as seriously as Brigitte Hafner, whose 30-seat restaurant Tedesca Osteria, at Red Hill on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, is celebrating a big win: despite COVID lockdowns forcing it to close mere weeks after it opened in 2020, it has just won Gourmet Traveller’s Restaurant of the Year 2022.

Brigitte sources her produce from just four local growers, all on the Mornington Peninsula, and describes herself as “obsessed” with freshness, preferring to cook with food that’s been harvested that same day. The restaurant, which is housed in a 1940s farmhouse sensitively restored and converted by Brigitte’s architect husband, Patrick Ness, also has a biodynamic farm on its 11-hectare site, making it even easier to serve up extraordinary food to enraptured diners while adhering to those local, seasonal ideals.

Ask Brigitte to describe the dishes she cooks with all that delicious fresh produce, and the answer is something like the food: simple and complex at the same time.

“It’s all about simplicity – cooking with fire, cooking in the moment as a response to all the things that are coming out of the garden – and then turning that into delicious food that spills out onto the table that everyone can share,” she says.

Tedesca’s open kitchen is centred around a wood-fired brick

“These recipes do the same thing I do at Tedesca, and that is harnessing great produce.

Pay attention to details.”

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hearth. “But while it is simple, it isn’t that easy to get it right; you need to pay attention to both how you’re cooking and the ingredients you’re cooking with.”

All this is an excellent incentive to visit the restaurant – but what about those of us keen to re-create the magic at home, who may not have access to large, flourishing vegie patches or have neighbours down the road who are growing some of the best produce in the country?

Don’t worry, says Brigitte: just source the best ingredients you can find, with extra bonus points for organic. “These recipes do the same thing that I do at Tedesca,” she says of the dishes she shares on the following pages. “And that is harnessing great produce. It’s not like I’m inventing anything here. It’s a tried and tested formula but the skill is in interpreting a good recipe. Pay attention to details and the results can be amazing.”

That attention to detail is just as noticeable in the accommodation at Tedesca Osteria. There are two options: Graceburn House, which sleeps up to 10 guests; and The Glasshouse, a romantic retreat for two. Both have been restored and furnished with all the love and care you could hope for, and mean that a weekend spent resting, eating and strolling at the Red Hill property is a feast not just for the tastebuds, but for the eyes, too.

Visit tedesca.com.au

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Tedesca Osteria’s chef and owner Brigitte Hafner; dining outdoors; Brigitte prepares the pastry; lush, manicured grounds; a charming window seat. FACING PAGE Juicy peas.

FOOD COUNTRY CHEF

SMOKY EGGPLANT SALAD WITH WALNUTS AND PARSLEY

Serves 4-6 as part of a meze “Eggplant is like a sponge so when you add the salt, vinegar and oil, let it sit for about half an hour then taste it again,” says Brigitte. “This dish can be dull if you don’t push the acid and salt.”

3 eggplants (about 320g each) 50g (½ cup) walnuts, plus extra to serve 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus extra leaves to serve 2½ tablespoons red wine vinegar, or to taste 125ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil or to taste, plus extra for drizzling sourdough, to serve

Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or chargrill pan to high. Cook eggplant, turning frequently, until completely charred on the outside (20 minutes).

Be careful not to pierce skin while turning. Transfer to a tray to cool.

Preheat oven to 200°C. Place walnuts on an oven tray and roast until golden (6 minutes). Place in a tea towel and, while warm, rub together to remove skins. Open tea towel and roll the walnut pieces so they separate from their skins; coarsely chop and set aside.

Slice eggplant in half lengthways, then scoop out flesh and place in a bowl. Add walnuts, garlic, parsley, vinegar and olive oil; season to taste and stir to combine. Stand for 20 minutes then check flavours; it may need to be adjusted with more olive oil, salt or vinegar. Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter over extra parsley and walnuts. Drizzle over olive oil and serve with sourdough.

FAVA WITH PICKLED SHALLOTS, DILL AND FETA

Serves 4-6 as part of a meze “This smooth, soft, earthy puddle is complemented by sharp, sour pickles, salty feta and the aniseed flavours of dill,” says Brigitte. “You can also use wild fennel fronds, which grow along the sides of creeks and roads.”

250g yellow split peas 1 pinch of dried Greek oregano (see note) 1 garlic clove, halved lengthways 120ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling juice of 2 lemons, or to taste 10g feta, drained, crumbled dill, to serve sourdough, to serve

PICKLED SHALLOTS

100ml white wine vinegar 90g caster sugar 2 whole black peppercorns 1 fresh thyme sprig 2 large golden shallots, thinly sliced

To make pickled shallots, combine vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, thyme and 30ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally,until sugar dissolves

(2 minutes). Cool to room temperature, then stir in shallots.

Stand for 30 minutes. Makes 250ml.

Place peas in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil over high heat, drain and rinse.

Return peas to pan and cover with 750ml water and 1 teaspoon sea salt flakes. Add oregano and garlic and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, partially covered with a lid until peas are soft and mushy (30-40 minutes). You may need to top up the water if the peas look a bit dry.

Set aside to cool for 10 minutes, then transfer to a food processor and process until smooth. It is important to blend while the mixture is still warm. Once smooth and with motor running, gradually add olive oil, followed by lemon juice. Season to taste and set aside to cool to room temperature. Makes 650g .

To assemble, spoon fava mixture onto a plate, make a well in the centre then scatter over feta, pickled shallots and dill. Drizzle over olive oil and serve with sourdough to the side.

NOTE Dried Greek oregano is available at specialty food shops, or substitute dried Italian oregano. >

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 121

FOOD COUNTRY CHEF

CYPRIOT-STYLE PITA FILLED WITH CORIANDER AND OLIVES

Serves 4-6 as part of a meze “Our friend Mary Loucas taught us this traditional Cypriot dish. It does require patience, however, the pastry is worth the effort,” says Brigitte.

200g plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 170ml extra-virgin olive oil 120ml warm water 50g unsalted butter

FILLING

100g pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped 6 spring onions, thinly sliced 2 cups (firmly packed) coriander leaves (about 2 bunches), coarsely chopped

To make dough, place flour, 5g sea salt flakes and 45ml olive oil in a food processor and process until sandy in texture. With motor running, gradually pour in 90ml warm water.

The dough should form a ball. If not, add a little more water. Turn out onto a lightly floured work bench and knead until smooth and shiny (5 minutes). Cover and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.

Melt butter and remaining olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat (2 minutes). Set aside and keep warm.

To roll pita, on a lightly floured work bench, using a rolling pin, roll out dough until it is a rectangular shape (45cm x 80cm), and as thin as possible (2mm thick). You want the pastry to be almost transparent, however, it is delicate so be careful not to tear dough; instead gently stretch it out with your hands as you are rolling.

Keep dusting dough with flour as you go. Brush top surface with butter mixture, fold sheet in half then brush top surface again. Fold sheet in half; repeat until pastry is 10cm x 12cm.

Cover and refrigerate (30 minutes).

Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease and line a baking tray with baking paper.

On a lightly floured work bench, roll out dough to a 45cm x 80cm rectangle.

Brush generously with butter mixture then sprinkle with olives, spring

122 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

onions and coriander. Roll lengthways into a cylinder shape, then pinch edges and twist in opposite directions until log is twisted all the way. Brush with butter mixture and gently roll onto prepared tray. If pita is too long, gently bend in half to fit on tray.

Bake until golden brown (1 hour).

Cool slightly, then slice and serve.

NOTE You can also use a pasta machine to roll out the dough. The pita is best eaten warm but can be reheated. It can also be made the day before and kept in the fridge, then freshly baked just before serving.

SOUSED LEEKS AND KIPFLER POTATOES WITH À LA GRECQUE DRESSING

Serves 4-6 as part of a meze “We use this delicious dressing over just about any vegetable – it’s particularly lovely on baby fennel and Dutch carrots,” says Brigitte.

500g kipfler potates or small waxy potatoes 1 bunch baby or young leeks, trimmed and cut into 1cm pieces

DRESSING

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 banana shallot, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 4 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted, crushed 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, toasted, crushed 100ml medium-dry sherry 100ml white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons honey 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 1 thyme sprig

Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Place over high heat; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until cooked (20-25 minutes). Drain and stand until cool enough to handle, then peel skin and discard. Thickly slice potatoes widthways and place in a large bowl.

Place leek in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer until just cooked (4-5 minutes). Drain well, then add leek to potatoes.

To make dressing, place olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat.

Add shallot and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden (5-6 minutes); stir in spices, then add remaining ingredients. Bring to the boil (2 minutes), season and stir to combine. Pour half the dressing over potatoes and leeks, season and toss gently to combine. Stand for 30 minutes before serving. Makes 250ml.

To serve, arrange salad on a platter with remaining dressing to the side.

PRAWNS WITH SAFFRON, FINO SHERRY AND GARLIC SAUCE

Serves 4-6 “This dish is all about the juices of the prawns mingling in a bath of garlicky saffron butter, so ensure you use the freshest of prawns,” says Brigitte.

125ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 8 large green king prawns (650g), peeled, heads and tails intact, cleaned 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 50ml fino sherry 10 saffron threads, lightly toasted 25g butter 2 pinches of cold-smoked pimento flakes (see note) lemon wedges, to serve

Heat 60ml olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Cook prawns, turning occasionally, until just cooked and lightly golden on both sides (2-3 minutes), then set aside on a plate.

Drain excess oil from pan; reduce heat to medium-low. Add remaining oil with garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden (1 minute).

Add parsley, then sherry, saffron and prawns, and reduce sherry by half (2-3 minutes). Add butter and pimento flakes and cook, gently turning prawns, until sauce starts to foam (1-2 minutes). Season to taste.

Arrange prawns in a large serving dish or bowl then spoon over sauce.

Serve with lemon wedges on the side.

NOTE Cold-smoked pimento flakes are available from specialty food shops, or substitute smoked paprika.>

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE Freshly picked carrots; Cypriot-style pita filled with coriander and olives; soused leeks and kipfler potatoes with à la Grecque dressing; the restaurant offers garden views; prawns with saffron, fino sherry and garlic sauce.

FOOD COUNTRY CHEF FROM LEFT Buttermilk panna cotta with spiced cherries and hazelnut praline; alfresco lunch at Tedesca Osteria.

BUTTERMILK PANNA COTTA WITH SPICED CHERRIES AND HAZELNUT PRALINE

Makes 4 “A combination of yoghurt, buttermilk and crème fraîche adds just the right amount of complexity to the sweetened cream,” says Brigitte.

1½ titanium-strength gelatine leaves 150ml pouring cream 75g caster sugar peel of half a lemon 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 125g crème fraîche 125g natural unsweetened yoghurt 125g buttermilk

HAZELNUT PRALINE 50g hazelnuts 100g caster sugar

POACHED CHERRIES

500g caster sugar 1 cinnamon quill 2 star anise 300g cherries, pitted (see note)

Soak gelatine in cold water until softened (5 minutes). Remove from

124 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

water and squeeze excess water from gelatine.

Meanwhile, combine cream, sugar and lemon peel with vanilla bean and seeds in a small saucepan over medium heat.

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves (2 minutes). Remove from heat and set aside to infuse (15 minutes). Strain mixture into a separate bowl and stir in gelatine.

In a large bowl, whisk together crème fraîche, yoghurt and buttermilk until smooth and combined. Strain cream and gelatine mixture into yoghurt mixture and whisk gently to combine; strain into a large jug. Makes 560ml. Divide among four 300ml-capacity wine glasses and refrigerate for 4 hours or until set.

Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease and line 2 large oven trays with baking paper.

To make praline, roast hazelnuts on a prepared tray until golden and skin begins to fall off (6-8 minutes).

Transfer to a tea towel and enclose;

shake tea towel and rub nuts together gently to remove skin and set aside.

In a large, heavy-based saucepan, combine sugar and 1 tablespoon water over high heat and boil until a light caramel starts (4-5 minutes). Reduce heat to medium and cook caramel until it resembles golden syrup (1 minute). Using a metal spoon, stir in hazelnuts until coated. Transfer to the other prepared tray and spread flat; stand on a wire rack until cool.

When ready to serve, finely chop desired amount of praline; excess praline can be stored in the freezer for up to 3 months.

To poach cherries, place sugar, spices and 500ml water in a large saucepan over high heat. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in cherries and cook until soft (12-15 minutes); remove from heat and set aside to cool.

To serve, spoon cherries over panna cotta and scatter over praline.

NOTE If fresh cherries aren’t available, substitute frozen pitted cherries; cooking time will be less.

FLAVOURS

PERFECT PROVIDORE

f lavours

FOOD, DRINKS AND PRODUCTS TO SAMPLE THIS MONTH. WORDS H A NNA H JA MES

EATING IBERIA If all you know about Portuguese cuisine is the custard tarts, think again. Thanks to a centuries-long heritage of exploring the globe, the Portuguese have embraced all kinds of cuisine, and that’s reflected in this comprehensive and beautifully photographed cookbook. Portugal: The Cookbook by Leandro Carreira ($79.95, Phaidon) is out now.

PHOTOGRAPHY ABBIE MELLÉ, MARNIE HAWSON

COOL CHANGE

Did you know pinot gris is best drunk colder than chardonnay, and merlot should be warmer than grenache? Serving wine at the right temperature is crucial, so Taylors Wines includes a heat-sensitive label – and donates to the Sydney Institute of Marine Science to help keep Sydney Harbour at just the right temperature for all its marine life. Find out more at seabnb.com.au and buy at taylorswines.com.au

Birch restaurant in Moss Vale, in the NSW Southern Highlands, has won plenty of plaudits, with its head chef Ben Bamford recently hailed one of the region’s hottest talents. But for obvious reasons, the past few years have seen it expand beyond a simple physical restaurant, and now it’s welcomed Birch Store to the world. “We not only stock produce we create, but have expanded to stock pantry, providore and homewares products made and created by local and regional businesses,” explains Renee Wallace, who owns and manages both shop and restaurant along with her husband, Glenn. They also collaborate with locals to create other products, including a textile range. Most popular right now is the porcini risotto kit, which lets you whip up one of the favourite dishes of restaurant patrons at home. Visit birchstore.com.au

RISE AND SHINE

It’s not just the locally roasted coffee in compostable capsules that Bec and Angus Macdougall of Dunmore Farm in Molyullah, Vic, do so well.

They also sell double-walled glassware and the machines that turn out the perfect brew. Plus, as The Branded Coffee Co, they work with Airbnb and hotels to offer personalised versions. Visit brandedcoffeeco.com.au >

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 125

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FLAVOURS

A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME

MOST OF US CAN NAME JUNIPER AS A KEY INGREDIENT IN GIN, BUT HOW ABOUT ROSES? THREE CUTS GIN FROM TURNER STILLHOUSE, BASED IN TASMANIA’S TAMAR VALLEY, IS MADE FROM SCRATCH AND USES, YES, ROSES FOR A UNIQUE, TOTALLY TASSIE FLAVOUR. AND IT JUST WON BEST AUSSIE GIN IN THE AUSTRALIAN GIN AWARDS! TURNER STILLHOUSE.COM

HOME AND DRY For 100 years the Heward family have been growing fruit in their Riverland, SA, orchards.

Order a box of their delicious Singing Magpie Produce: sundried figs, quinces, peaches, pears and apricots. Visit singingmagpieproduce.com.au

NIGHT IN THE CITY

PHOTOGRAPHY DEARNA BOND

Sydney’s most glamorous new venue, Shell House, has three bars and a restaurant tucked inside the former Menzies Hotel, all celebrating the Art Deco era in which it was built. Start out with a drink at the Sky Bar, 10 storeys high with a glorious city view, and move on to the Dining Room for a two-hatted feast. Visit shellhouse.com.au

Better beef

Tamworth duo Emma and Sandra Williams bring their extensive rural know-how to Impact Meat. Their grass-fed beef jerky and biltong is perfect for snacking or charcuterie spreads. Visit impactmeat.com.au

SHAKE IT UP Smoothies, soups, milkshakes, sauces – and even this frozen negroni – are all a cinch with this super-cute 1950s-style Smeg blender. With three preset programs, the stainless steel blades easily blitz ice for a refreshing treat. Visit harveynorman.com.au APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 127

FOOD COUNTRY COOK

soil and toil STEVE CUMPER CHAMPIONS THE HUMBLE VEGIE WITH THESE SIMPLE, FLAVOURSOME SIDE DISHES. PHOTOGRAPHY NIC GOSSAGE ST YLING OLI V I A BLACK MOR E

renaissance of late. Trend Watchers and Future Forecasters predicted a while back that we’d all be eating more vegies. Could the high price of meat, food supply dramas and desire to reduce flesh consumption have contributed to this?

Interestingly, while some retailers endured major supply halts during COVID, many greengrocers sidestepped these hiccups. Maybe their network of growers was the key difference; smaller farms supplying agile retailers triumphed when pitted against a centralised system reliant on complex supply chains.

I love getting top-quality fruit and veg from small grocers. Please enjoy these tasty vegie recipes and spare a thought for the growers behind them.

CARROTS WITH MALT AND CARAWAY

PARSNIPS WITH HONEY AND FETA Serves 4

8 medium-sized parsnips 100g butter 3 tablespoons Australian honey salt and pepper 50g crumbled feta cheese

Peel the parsnips, then bring to the boil in salted water. Cook until tender; drain and let the steam dry them.

Preheat your oven to the highest temperature. In a roasting tray, heat the butter and honey. Place the parsnips in the tray, season with salt and pepper, then spoon mixture over them. Roast parsnips in the oven until golden and bubbling, then remove from oven.

Crumble feta over the parsnips and serve.

Serves 4

RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES AND SPICES

Peel the carrots, then bring to the boil in salted water. Cook until tender; drain and let the steam dry them.

Preheat your oven to the highest temperature. In a roasting tray, heat the butter, malt syrup and caraway seeds. Place carrots in tray, season, then spoon mixture over them. Roast until golden and bubbling, then serve.

100g butter 1 red onion, finely sliced 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 small red cabbage, sliced finely juice of 1 lemon ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup malt vinegar 1 cup red wine 3 tart apples, peeled and sliced finely 2 cinnamon quills 5 cloves 3 star anise parchment paper salt and pepper

8 medium carrots 100g butter 2 tablespoons malt syrup 1 tablespoon caraway seeds salt and pepper

128 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

Serves 4

In a heavy pot with a lid, heat the butter until it sizzles. Add the red onion, garlic, red cabbage and lemon juice – stir in well and cook for 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.

Reduce heat to the lowest temperature and cover the pot tightly with the parchment paper and lid; cook for 1 hour. Check from time to time that the mixture hasn’t stuck to the bottom.

The cabbage should be very tender and the liquid almost evaporated.

If a lot of liquid remains, remove the paper and lid and cook on a high heat, stirring constantly, until it is incorporated. Season, then serve.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND SPECK Serves 4

400g Brussels sprouts 100g smoked speck, cut into 1cm cubes 100g butter 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon malt vinegar salt and pepper

Bring the Brussels sprouts to the boil in salted water. Cook until tender; drain and let the steam dry them.

In a heavy skillet, sauté the speck until the fat renders and it starts to colour. Add the butter and garlic, then continue to sauté before adding the brown sugar and malt vinegar.

Toss in the sprouts; cook over a high heat until the sprouts become sticky.

Season, then serve.

PHOTO CHEF DIXIE ELLIOTT

VEGIES HAVE GONE through a

FOOD HEIR LOOM BELOW Beth King took great pride in setting the table with vintage teacups and saucers, and presenting her freshly baked treats.

little bites of happiness

FOR PHILIPPA MOORE, RE-CREATING THE RECIPE FOR HER NAN’S MARVELLOUS ANZAC BISCUITS STIRS UP FOND MEMORIES. BAKING IS A WONDERFUL WAY to mark an occasion, and

Anzac biscuits are perhaps one of Australia’s best examples of this. For Beth King (nee Lockett), sharing celebrations with her family was one of her greatest pleasures. “She was a wonderful woman whose baking was quite legendary in our family,” says Beth’s granddaughter Philippa, who lives in Hobart, Tasmania. “In my mind’s eye, I can still see her pulling a tray of her famous Anzac biscuits out of the oven.”

Beth was the designated cake baker for every family birthday, and it was usually a fudgy chocolate cake, thickly iced with a dark chocolate icing and dotted liberally with Smarties. “When you turned 10, you got two cakes – a loaf and a ring [for 10] – a tradition my sisters are proudly carrying on with their own children,” says Philippa.

Life had not been without its challenges for Beth, who was born in Melbourne in 1927 and became profoundly deaf after contracting bacterial meningitis as a baby. “She was educated at the Victorian College for the Deaf, where she was a boarder from the early age of three,” says Philippa.

Leaving school at 16, Beth began work as a seamstress, and later became a presser at a fancy South Yarra drycleaners.

Beth met her husband George, who was also deaf, when she travelled to Sydney for the Adult Deaf Society Carnival in 1950. “They were married in Melbourne in 1953 and even made the local paper, presumably because a wedding in sign language was not common at the time,” says Philippa.

The happy newlyweds then moved to Tasmania, where they raised a family of four children.

A woman of many talents, Beth knitted, gardened and was quite famous for her “collections” of dainty vintage teacups and saucers, garden gnomes, and touristy tea towels from all over Australia. She loved celebrating family occasions and her organisational skills were second to none.

“She was the sort of lady who would put her Christmas tree up in November and set the table for tomorrow’s breakfast as soon as the dishes from dinner were dry,” says Philippa.

“When I think of Nan, in among the amazing birthday cakes, the endless cups of black tea, her exquisite copperplate handwriting, the mint peas she served with Sunday roast, and her devotion to the Carlton Football Club, what I remember most of all is her kindness and her feisty spirit. She beat breast cancer not once but four times, and was the most welcoming and inclusive person you could ever hope to meet. Perhaps because she spent her life being a bit marginalised at times, she was determined to be independent and always made anyone in her presence feel like they were the most important person in the world.”

Philippa adds: “She was a delightful woman who I miss dearly. Even though she couldn’t physically hear me, she was the one person in my life who I knew would always listen. And try as I might, my Anzac biscuits are just never as good as hers!”

PHOTOCHEF DIXIE ELLIOTT

WORDS SUE R A MSEY PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN PAUL UR IZA R ST YLING MICHELE CR A NSTON

NAN’S ANZAC BISCUITS

Makes about 40 (I usually double the recipe!)

1 cup rolled oats ½ cup self-raising flour ½ cup plain flour ¾ cup desiccated coconut (if you don’t have this, use an extra ¾ cup oats) ¾ cup sugar (brown, raw or white) ½ teaspoon bicarb soda 2 tablespoons boiling water 125g butter, melted 2 tablespoons golden syrup (I often use rice malt syrup if that’s all I have)

Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl.

Dissolve the bicarb soda in boiling water and add to melted butter and golden syrup. Add mixture to dry ingredients; stir well. Place teaspoons of mixture on a greased tray. “I roll them into balls in my hands first, which really does remind me of making these as a kid,” says Philippa.

Bake the biscuits in a moderately slow oven (160°C/140°C fan-forced) for 15 minutes. If you want firmer biscuits, cook for a few minutes longer. Let them cool, then store in an airtight container.

“They last a long time,” Philippa says. “But in this house, they last as long as my willpower allows!”

SHARE YOUR FAMILY FAVOURITES Do you have a recipe that has been passed down through generations of your family? Send it to us, along with the story behind it and a photograph of the relative who passed it on.

Remember to include a telephone number. Email hannah.james@ aremedia.com.au or send a letter to Heirloom Recipe, Country Style, GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW, 2001.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 131

FASHION Lynda Gardener models a dress and headpiece from the range.

FACING PAGE Floral patterns made for everyday wear.

into the forest

BEAUTIFUL LINEN AND LIBERTY PRINTS COME TOGETHER IN A FASHION COLLABORATION BY VICTORIAN LABEL EVA’S SUNDAY AND DECORATOR LYNDA GARDENER. WORDS H A NNA H JA MES PHOTOGRAPHY NATA LIE NOWOTA RSK I

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 133

FASHION

EASY, FUN, ORGANIC: that’s how Nic MacIsaac, owner of

clothing label Eva’s Sunday, describes the evolution of her collaboration with renowned decorator and stylist Lynda Gardener. It’s also how Lynda describes her design process, so it’s not surprising that it’s a mood that pervades the collection. Skirts in cascading tiers of muted sage Liberty print and free-flowing gowns in rich olive linen look timeless in the forest beside Lynda’s The Estate Trentham property, with Lynda acting as model, muse and designer.

“I’ve known of Lynda’s work and admired her style for probably 20 years, and we’d become friends,” says Nic. “We were talking about how our fabrics would make great head wraps for her, and then I said, ‘We should actually create a product – would you be interested in working with our designer and creating some styles?’”

Known and loved for her layered, rustic-glamour interiors, Lynda is also celebrated for her distinctive fashion aesthetic. “It’s always been part of my life, to

134 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

dress up and make an effort with how I look,” says Lynda.

In the same way that she creates her interiors, she blends vintage and modern in her outfits, with a touch of the unusual. And Eva’s Sunday – with its earthy, drapey linens and pretty prints just made for layering – was the perfect partner for her first foray into fashion. Once headquartered in Myrtleford, and now settled into its Beechworth store, the label’s rural roots made The Estate Trentham an ideal spot for a photoshoot.

And it was, in fact, a match made in heaven, with the first collection proving popular with both lovers of Lynda’s style and fans of the linen-and-Liberty-print combination that Eva’s Sunday has made its trademark. This second collection, which forms part of the new season’s main line, called Pique Nique, looks set to be just as successful.

“I think about what I love to wear, and my inspirations, and I put a mood board together,” says Lynda of the process. “Then I’ll sit down with Kenya Quin, the Eva’s Sunday designer, and we’ll come up with ideas. She’ll sketch pieces and say, ‘How about if we did this sort of neck?’ Then she does a set for me to try, and that’s how it all comes together. We don’t think about what’s in fashion now – I love timeless pieces that never date.”

Fabric, fit and quality are Nic’s watchwords for Eva’s Sunday, and thankfully she and Lynda have the same approach. “We don’t chase trends, we just do what’s right for our customer,” explains Nic. “We’re very sizeinclusive – we’re all different sizes in the office and we all try everything on. We’re all about the fit. And we’re very conscious of making sure that the colour palette of one collection rolls into the next, so you can buy something from this year and it will go with a piece from last year. They’re all made to complement one another.”

It’s an approach that works: though operating during the pandemic has been tough, Eva’s Sunday’s audience has proven fiercely loyal to its classic pieces. They’re just as appreciative of innovations like the label’s Gently Worn preloved clothing program, part of its commitment to sustainability, as of new collaborations like Lynda’s collections. “They’re such beautiful people to work with,” says Lynda of her Eva’s Sunday colleagues, and Nic agrees: “We just get on so well.”

Peace and harmony; beau d joy: now that’s something we can all agree to celebrate For more, visit evassunday.com.au

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The range includes feminine, flattering garments in soft fabrics; Lynda’s border collie, Buddy, joins the fun; layers of colour and texture; floral inspiration; pieces in the new range; Lynda’s picturesque The Estate Trentham. FACING PAGE Nic and Lynda have a shared appreciation for beautiful fabrics and timeless styles.

FASHION

MICRO-DAIRY FARMER CATHY PALMER SHARES HER BOHO STYLE SECRETS AND HER FAVOURITE WAYS TO RELAX. PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON

CATHY PALMER FEMALE-FOUNDED, FIRST-GENERATION DAIRY FARMER

Cathy lives in Numurkah, Vic, with her daughter Mia, 18, their dachshund GiGi and 17-year-old cat Kimba.

CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE A trusted Akubra is one of Cathy’s daily wardrobe essentials; GiGi, the family’s beloved miniature dachshund; Cathy takes a walk with her mum, Mary, daughter, Mia, and GiGi. FACING PAGE Cathy relishes country life and adores her herd of cows.

What do you love about living in the country? The space and the freedom. I love that whenever I’m stressed or feeling rushed, I can go out into the paddock with the girls (cows) and hear nothing, other than birds, insects or animals. It’s very grounding and I just breathe…

How would you describe your style? Boho.

Are you interested in fashion? Absolutely. Fashion is marketing, it tells another part of your story. Plus, it’s good fun.

Who are your style influences? No one person in particular… Keith Richards is right up there. He does boho better than anyone I’ve ever seen!

What’s the best style advice you’ve ever received?

“Never wear something that doesn’t feel right.”

What are your wardrobe essentials? Levi’s jeans, long-sleeved white ELK shirt (I buy one every summer), Akubra hat, slides (my feet are always hot) and Merry People boots – I love having coloured workboots!

What are your favourite clothing labels? ELK has long been a favourite. I love that it’s Aussie, their ethos and transparency. I’m also a huge Marimekko fan.

Where do you shop for clothing and accessories?

Anywhere eclectic! Recently, I was in Nagambie for the farmers’ market and I found a brilliant shop, Harvest Moon, where I stocked up on essentials and fun pieces.

What are your essential beauty products? I’m really fussy about everything being cruelty-free. My mum put me onto Four Cow Farm – they do an amazing face oil and body moisturiser. I wear bareMinerals Complexion Rescue, eyebrow pencil, mascara and lip balm.

Do you have a favourite fragrance? I like Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, and Le Labo Santal 33.

Do you have any favourite accessories? A Jan Logan silver cuff, and Dinosaur Designs blue resin ring.

Nearly everything I have is blue these days.

What helps you keep a balanced life? I do qi gong three times a week online with an instructor – she keeps me sane. It opens up my mind to being really creative.

What are you reading/watching? I’m reading Why You Should Give A F*ck About Farming – sent to me by a great friend. And I’m watching Ted Lasso and Gruen.

What do you never leave home without? Sadly, my phone – but it’s also my diary, my wallet and PA these days. Plus, a lip tint and sunscreen.

Where are your favourite local spots to eat? The Telegraph Hotel in Numurkah is a truly great local pub.

Fowles Wine in Avenel – I love the stone it’s built from and the breakfast. They also produce my favourite pinot noir: Ladies who Shoot their Lunch.

For more on Cathy and her dairy farm, see page 42.

APRIL 2022 COUNTRY STYLE 137

FASHION Spending time in How Now Dairy’s paddocks with her ‘girls’ helps Cathy to de-stress and feel more grounded.

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bohemian chic

CATHY TEAMS CLASSIC STAPLES WITH COSY, BRIGHT ADD-ONS. PRODUCED BY K ATE LINCOLN

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1 Check longline shacket in Hazel, $199.95, from Witchery.

2 Karla bag, $370, from Marimekko. 3 Le Labo Santal 33 eau de parfum fragrance, $433, from Mecca. 4 Re/Done 70s high-rise stovepipe straight-leg jeans, $428.60, from Net-A-Porter. 5 Cattleman Sand hat, $220, from Akubra.

6 bareMinerals Complexion Rescue Defense SPF 15 moisturiser, $58, from Mecca. 7 Mother’s All-Natural Castile hair and body wash, $18.90, from Four Cow Farm.

8 Bobbi gumboot in Oxford Blue & Tan, $149.95, from Merry People. 9 Resin band ring in Moody Blue, $50, from Dinosaur Designs. 10 Yenna linen shirt, $179, from ELK.

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You’re welcome

Jacqueline Coates

MY FAMOUS BIG BLOOMS PAINTING WORKSHOP IS NOW ONLINE!

Which of these 3 stunning paintings will you choose to learn to paint?

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COUN TRY SQUIRE

A LITTLE SLICE OF HEAVEN RURAL AUSTRALIAN FOOD HAS NEVER BEEN ABOUT TRENDS, SAYS ROB INGRAM – YET SOMEHOW IT’S IN FASHION. critic – as much as I do, you might remember him once saying that food is one of those subjects that television keeps going back to for seconds… without ever quite getting it right.

But those of us living in the sensible world of regional grazing are beginning to feel television might be getting closer. Food is one of the constants of life for those who might be described as ruralised. Here, it’s not about style or stature or fad or fashion. It’s food. And it doesn’t change all that much.

Most of the houses in our parish – okay, electorate – rely on the Country Women’s Association or the Presbyterian Cookbook to provide nourishment for its inhabitants.

Food equals nourishment, okay? It’s not about food being cool. It’s about food being warm. That’s why we’re at the kitchen door at 5:30pm.

So when chefs became the superstars of the TV screen and showed us how to whip up a nice little carpaccio of Maldivian long-line-caught yellowfin tuna fanning an island of Rio Grande Valley avocado crème fraîche, topped with grated Malay-heritage virgin coconut and coriander, And you know what? The TV super-chefs took their sprinkled with toasted organic sesame seeds – and no, this Maldivian yellowfin tuna, their Himalayan pink salt, wasn’t the deconstructed version – we felt a bit left out. their Périgord truffles, their jamón ibérico, their Italian A.A. Gill warned us that food had become cynically bresaola and their Jerez sherry vinegar and receded back and commercially re-engineered into yet another into their global pantries. ingredient of the self-obsessed, dysfunctional and Sorry, food snobs – the new television culinary fashion unfulfilled lives of trendy consumers. But out here in is baking. The Great Australian Bake Off, The Great the rural regions, our familiar food was a metaphor for British Bake Off, The Great Kiwi Bake Off… The Great happiness and conviviality.

Kenyan Bake Off… Our mainstays of hospitality and the culinary arts Then there’s Junior Bake Off, The Great Celebrity remained the traditional cob loaf containing a cabbage Bake Off, Mary Berry’s Quick Cooking, Paul Hollywood, and cheese dip, the sultana slab, the Maggie Beer and Matt Moran, Donna “MEANWHILE, WE cornflake and coconut slice, the chocolate Hay, Britain’s Best Bakery, Baking Mad caramel slice, and the lemon delicious slice. WERE ENJOYING THE with Eric Lanlard, Buddy Valastro’s Cake It wasn’t something to be ashamed of.

FOOD WE WANTED, Boss and Lyndey Milan’s Baking Secrets.

Foodies could sneer at us if they liked, They’re all mad for a raspberry jam WHEN WE WANTED.” suggesting that we were eating coconut slice, a lemon delicious slice, an the leftovers of a culinary era still preserved in aspic. apple and cinnamon slice, a passionfruit slice, a vanilla Food snobbery is all about how much you spend. Do you slice and a date crumble slice. If it has got a biscuit base shop at the right supermarkets? Do you eat at the right and contains a random selection of the ‘c’ ingredients – restaurants? Do you order the most pretentious dishes? chocolate, caramel, custard, coconut, cream – it’s Meanwhile, we were enjoying the food we wanted, when suddenly the best thing since sliced, um, slice. we wanted. And damned well baking it ourselves. This It’s a combination made in heaven. And also in rural was food with integrity… food with heritage.

Australia. Who knows, maybe they’re the same place.

154 COUNTRY STYLE APRIL 2022

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY ABBIE MELLE BACKGROUND PHOTOGRAPHY SAM MCADAM-COOPER STYLING PHOEBE MCEVOY

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