Devour - Spring & Summer 2015

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

The Tastebud

GENOME PROJECT

Wilmington–based Next Glass uses science to help consumers select beer and wine

PGS. 26 - 28

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Divulge.

Devour.

EDITOR Shea Carver ASSISTANT EDITOR Christian Podgaysky ART DIRECTOR Kyle Peeler

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ere we are. Warmer weather permeates our coastal abode, which means we have more daylight to enjoy outdoor barbeques, reading on the beach, walking throughout numerous local gardens, and planting our own for the most flavorful and nutritious vegetables possible. Spring has sprung—in Wilmington, that means summer is a half-step behind.

Our spring/summer 2015 edition features so many decadent reads, you’ll be keeping it around to thumb through over the next three months over and over again. Emily Caulfield certainly will make you a hit at all get-togethers, as she indulges you with a plethora of light fare that will turn up your taste buds. From her take on a niçoise sandwich to the greenest salad on earth, to fennel sausage and orechhiette pasta to homemade sweets, alfajores, your dinner guests will be impressed with your culinary skills, thanks to her recipes.

The warm weather, sandy beaches and rushing waves make for a meditative time of year, when folks gather up their beach gear and head out for the rays. Gwenyfar Rohler has your essential summertime reads, including “The Tastemakers,” by David Sax. Sax reveals and explores food trends, from the link between celebrity chefs and our own food myths, to why we decide to buy chia drinks or goat’s milk caramels. Rohler also suggests a few older reads, which make great leftovers in any reading catalog. Want to learn about the recipes from Plymouth Rock days? Check out “The Plimoth Colony Cook Book.” Or if you have a rose garden and need ideas on how to make the most from the floral (and savory) petals, be sure to pick up “Rose Recipes From Olden Times,” by Eleanour Sinclair Rhode.

If cooking just isn’t how you wish to enjoy the longer days, then make sure YoSake Sushi Lounge tops your list on places to go on Monday nights. Rosa Bianca eats through their 13-course sushi tasting, available at their bar and guided by the chef at the start of every week. The chef talks about each fish and where he buys it—fresh from the boat that day— while discerning preparation for each course. It’s educational decadence.

We have all the standards that readers have come to love of Devour. From our restaurateur profiles, featuring Brad Corpening and Chris Graham, owners of Chop’s Deli, to chef Courtney Matheson, who owns DelishNC and is a tour guide for Taste Carolina Gourmet Food Tours, as well as our farmer profile. Our farmer profile is on Margaret Shelton of Shelton Herb Farm. Linda Grattafiori interviews Shelton about her family’s 200-year-old farm and its legacy in Wilmington. Don’t miss our cover story, featuring Wilmington’s very own Kurt Taylor, who was on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 list of up-and-coming entrepreneurs. Taylor founded Next Glass, a groundbreaking app which locks in your flavor profiles for wine and beer, and uses science to help determine other varieties that you may like as well.

It’s time to consider those spring gardens, and Progressive Gardens’ owner Evan Folds makes a compelling reason why you should hone your green thumb. He sheds light on the persuasion of marketing and advertising, but more so on lobbyists and corporations that control our food. Their effectiveness often isn’t generating real, nutritious eats that make our life force strong. Read Folds’ musings on why we should stay away from foods that contain pesticides, GMOs, natural flavors,and preservatives. Be smart! Start a garden!

G& SPRIN R E SUMM 2015

2 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

ADVERTISING Shea Carver, Willa Brown, John Hitt, Rose Thompson CONTRIBUTORS Rosa Bianca, Gwenyfar Rohler, Joel Finsel, Rosa Bianca, Emily Caulfield, Bethany Turner, Christian Podgaysky, Evan Folds, Linda Grattafiori PHOTOGRAPHY Holland Dotts, Willa Brown, Trent Williams DEVOUR

is published by HP Media seasonally and covers the greater southeastern NC region. To subscribe to the print publication, the cost is $15 a year. Folks can sign up to subsribe in print or monthly via e-mail updates at www.devourilm.com. The website is updated each month for new, local culinary news, reviews, events and happenings.

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12-13 | Margaret Shelton of Shelton Herb Farm has been running her family’s 200-year-old farm, and providing fresh herbs and greens to restaurateurs and chefs across southeastern NC.

Cover: Holland Dotts Photography

14-15 EAT Succulent Sushi

Rosa Bianca takes on a refreshing meal for spring and summer at downtown’s sushi lounge, YoSake, which now offers a 13-course sushi tasting every Monday night at the bar.

30-31 IMBIBE

Spring and Summer Brews

ON THE COVER

Bethany Turner walks us through a multitude of refreshing flavors, just in

26-28 |

a little something for every palate awaits.

Bethany Turner interviews Kurt Taylor, the founder of Next Glass—an app that allows folks to find wine and beer, according to their choice flavor profiles. The company takes it one step further by analyzing over 20,000 molecular compounds to create an accurate analysis of each beer and wine. Read about the company and Taylor, who was nominated as one of Forbes’ 2015 30 Under 30 entrepreneurs.

ALSO INSIDE:

time for the warmer seasons. From lambics to IPAs, maibocks to wheats,

34-35 FEATURE Book Reviews

Gwenyfar Rohler dishes on new and old books, perfectly awaiting your summertime reading lists. Don’t miss out on David Sax’s 2014 release, “The Tastemakers,” which explores food fads and trends.

Chef Profile, pgs. 6-7 • Restaurateur Profiles, pgs. 8-10 • What We Love to Eat, pgs. 17-21

Recipes, pgs. 22-23 • Cocktails and Conversations, pgs. 24-25 • Feature, pgs. 32-33 • Culinary Calendar, pgs. 36-39 4 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

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SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 5

Inside the Kitchen A look at a chef’s inspiration, business sense and background

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BY Tiffanie DiDonato ● Devour contributor

rom the start it’s obvious the only thing that trumps being a professional chef for Courtney Matheson is her 2-and-a-half-year-old son, Hendrix. And when it comes to the inspiration behind her budding new business, which includes personal chef services and cooking classes at Delish NC, Matheson says it’s no secret she attributes all the credit to Hendrix, too.

But here’s what many don’t know about the chef: Despite the sugarcoated anecdote on her business website about being in the kitchen with her mom, she didn’t always want to be a chef. In fact, she originally began in the fashion industry in New York City.

“I loved the music, the hustle and bustle and cocktails, but a few years into the textile business, I realized it wasn’t for me. I’m too crunchy for it.” Matheson jokes. “It was kind of a pain in the ass to make friends, because everyone already had their friends, and everyone was always too busy to make new ones.

I shared a cubical with my boss. There was no creative freedom. Literally, one day I said to myself, ‘Is this my life?’ So, I quit.”

For the next four months, Matheson traveled all over the country. She hiked in the Berkshires, toured the Grand Canyon, went cliff-jumping, hung out in Sturgis during bike week, witnessed Phish in concert a whopping 82 times, and visited places like like Camden, New Jersey, Chula Vista, California, and everywhere in-between. It wasn’t until a casual phone call from a high school friend that prompted her to visit a city of which she admittedly had never even heard: Wilmington, North Carolina.

“My mother shaped me the way I am today, because I learned how to fend for myself. I cooked many of my own meals, did my own laundry, shopped for groceries, wrote my own sick notes for school, signed my own permission slips, got myself ready for school, and so on, and so on. At a very early age, as early as I can remember: 6 or 7 years old.”

● Courtney Matheson, chef and owner of DelishNC and tour guide for Taste Carolina Gourmet Food Tours. Photo by 1 of 13 Photography ●

6 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

INDUSTRY “I had been all over the United States and it never dawned on me to go to North Carolina,” she says. “It was the beach, the weather, and the people that prompted me to stay,” And for the last 13 years, she has made Wilmington her home. “I started as a hostess at Front Street Brewery,” she says. “I wanted a kitchen job, because I always loved to cook, but that was the only position they had. Even after hostessing, I knew I was cut out for restaurant work.”

After five months as a hostess, Elijah’s called and Matheson began working the line. Simultaneously, while working night shifts at Elijah’s, she took a job at The George at the sauté station. Then she perfected her technique with international cuisine during a brief stint at Flavor Fusion as sous chef before the restaurant closed. Being on her toes, Matheson says, moving around a lot, and the adrenaline rush is exactly the atmosphere she craved. And let’s not forget about being toughskinned, forward and unafraid in this industry. Yeah, Matheson has these qualities, too, and they date back to her very independent childhood.

“My mother shaped me the way I am today, because I learned how to fend for myself,” Matheson says. “I cooked many of my own meals, did my own laundry, shopped for groceries (walking to the store and back), wrote my own sick notes for school, signed my own permission slips, got myself ready for school, and so on. At a very early age, as early as I can remember: 6 or 7 years old.”

So, when Hendrix was born, despite being offered chef de partie at Elijah’s, last summer Matheson made the decision to resign, focus on her son, and to pursue her own personal goals. In doing so, she wanted to ensure Hendrix had a better childhood than she did.

When Matheson isn’t hosting cooking classes for parties, being a personal chef for her clientele twice a week, teaching other moms how to make their own organic baby food, managing her website, DelishNC.com, or savoring the imaginary burger—and slurping make-believe ketchup off her fingers Hendrix playfully pretends to serve—she is enjoying connecting people with Wilmington’s best and historic restaurants.

She’s a tour guide for the three-hour Taste Carolina Gourmet Food Tour of downtown Wilmington. Tourists get to literally taste the adventure as Matheson delves into the local history of specific foods and dishes, the buildings surrounding them, and even the famous chefs who have come and gone. The best part: Matheson gives the tour all year round.

“I don’t advertise (my website or my business) at all,” she says. “Only through word-of-mouth for now, anyway. Once Hendrix goes to preschool, I’ll expand what I do—maybe even open my own restaurant. I love making a good salad, maybe I’ll do something like a salad bar—or something.”

Matheson tosses out the idea lightly; it’s something she has brainstormed on for a bit. Really, there’s no rush. For now, she just wants to be a chef and a stay-at-home mom who doesn’t really stay home very often.

To book your foodie adventure at Taste Carolina Gourmet Food Tour visit, www.tastecarolina.net. Or visit DelishNC.net to contact Courtney Matheson.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 7

Kismet Kitchens Two establishments that found a stroke of luck and genius

BY Christian Podgaysky ● Devour assistant editor Businesses begin in a multitude of ways: Some involve years of heavy planning; others derive from a whim with talent to back it up. For restaurateurs Brad Corpening and Chris Graham (Chop’s Deli), and Hunter and Laura Tiblier (Ceviche’s), fate, hard work and a finesse for making delicious dishes have guided them to success. Though their paths have had obstacles, their accomplishments are undeniably an asset to Wilmington’s culinary scene. Here are their stories... ●

(Above) Chef Sam Cahoon, and Ceviche’s owners Hunter and Laura Tiblier Photo by Christian Podgaysky

8 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

INDUSTRY Brad Corpening, Chris Graham Chop’s Deli • 130 N Front St., 7037 Wrightsville Ave., 5120-108 S. College Rd.

There’s no doubt most Wilmington residents know the iconic man with mutton chops, sporting a green shirt and brandishing a meat cleaver. His face adorns three store fronts locally and can routinely be seen on Chop’s Deli Freakers. But this man is not just a cartoon character: He’s a real-life, three-dimensional sandwich-and-soup mastermind named “Brad Corpening.” His and Chris Graham’s deli brings new meaning to the term “sandwich artist.” Come rain, shine, or a random bout with ice, Chop’s stoves and presses are always fired up and ready.

Before he began filling bellies, Corpening was a 9-to-5 paperpusher at a local law firm. He moonlighted at Dixie Grill alongside Graham as well. Having dabbled in burgers, fries and breakfast, primarily whetting their culinary feet with a flat-top stove, the two began thinking about upstarting their own establishment.

“We ended up spitballing ideas, talking about stuff, and one thing lead to another,” Corpening recalls. “One day we saw a sign in the window that said ‘For Rent’ in our [now] Front Street location. We said, ‘Let’s call ‘em, and see what they want.’”

Unsure of exactly what they wanted to serve—specialty burgers, burritos and tacos were just a few of their mixed bag of ideas—the beautiful, round-top delicatessen case, and panini press pushed them toward what eventually became Chop’s Deli. “It was a leap of faith,” Corepening says. “We started on a very shoestring budget. There was a lot of wheelin’ and dealin’, so to speak.”

After signing the papers and settling on sandwiches, bringing in the reputable meat-and-cheese purveyors Boar’s Head was the next item on the agenda. The company came in and let them sample their offerings, as well as gave suggestions on a starting inventory. “We needed something that had a reputation,” Corpening explains. “People who know Boar’s Head know the quality of the product.”

Then came the marketing. At the time Corpening already had his distinguishing muttonchops, so “Chop’s Deli” became the signature monker. He laughs, remembering how Graham noted Corpening’s already cartoonish look. They enlisted the help of a local graphic designer and before long they had a logo.

Chop’s Deli officially opened their doors in December 2009. It launched during a slow season (cold, winter months heavily reduce downtown foot traffic) and amid a country-wide recession. However, Corpening and Graham remained steadfast, never letting anything deter them from their dream. They debuted with a menu full of classic, club-inspired sandwiches and a few more innovative features.

One of their signatures, “The Plymouth,” began as a Thanksgiving-stuffed wrap, complete with turkey, dressing, cranberries, potatoes, and more. “It was gonna be a mess,” Corpening says with a grin.

In the interest in scaling back, the sandwich ended up comprising ovengold smoked turkey, thinly sliced Granny Smith apples, and Chop’s cranberry relish, all held between two toasted pieces of multigrain bread. “It’s still got a nice Thanksgiving flavor, and I really like the cranberry and apple combination,” Corpening details.

For the first year, Chop’s was a two-man operation: Corpening manned the register while Graham prepped sandwiches in the kitchen. It proved an invaluable learning experience and helped them work out the kinks before taking on additional staff. “We had some time to get open and figure out how everything worked,” Corpening says.

“You can plan and plan and plan, but a lot of the final decisions don’t happen until the bullet hits the bone, as they say.”

Much of their success comes through their daily specials, such as homemade soups, gorumet mac-n-cheeses and imaginative sandwiches. While some specials repeat, others are a chance to experiment and offer up a unique spin on traditional fare. “I want it to be fun, and let [employees] know if they have an idea or something they’re excited about, within reason, we can try it,” Corpening says. “That’s something people have come to know us for. We have [customers] who just order the special, whatever it is. They just trust us.”

As their reputation spread, largely through word-of-mouth and their Facebook page, the opportunity to expand came about in a short time frame for any new business. Spurred by requests from folks in the Monkey Junction area, who wanted a Chop’s locale closer to home, Graham and Corpening opened the doors to their second location in 2011. As luck would have it, the spot they took over, which used to be a Quiznos, was managed by an office a few blocks from their downtown business. The building managers immediately jumped on having the popular meat-slingers move in.

A similar dose of fate was at play when they ventured into their third establishment in 2014. Moving to a spot near Wrightsville Beach (where Gloria’s Italian Restaurant used to be), the building’s overseer happened to talk to a broker the Chop’s proprietors used when considering Monkey Junction. Opportunity knocked, and the Chop’s guys answered. Now, they aim to consolidate what they already have.

“I would call it a catch-up time. [Growth has] been kind of natural,” Corpening mentions. “There’s been some growing pains and headaches here and there, but we worked through it and now we’re at a point we can step back and look at growing internally rather than externally.”

As Corpening reminds, they are a local chain. It’s a time that will make it easier to train new employees, as well potentially franchise someday. Right now, Corpening and Graham continue to provide a

● Chop’s Deli owners Chris Graham and Brad Corpening. Photo by Holland Dotts Photography

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 9

INDUSTRY quality dining experience for Port City residents. Corpening’s muttonchops can be seen at any location, as he greets diners like old friends.

“As long as we can keep making sandwiches, we can do anything we want to,” he notes. “Everyone who comes through the door is my best friend, because they’re the ones who keep the lights on.”

Hunter and Laura Tiblier Ceviche’s • 7210 Wrightsville Ave

Growing up in Panama, Hunter Tiblier’s palate was forever shaped.

His father worked for the canal, which left him to be raised on the light, fresh taste of ceviche and the golden sweet-and-savory goodness of patacones—fried plantain slices. The tastes stayed with him through 26 years of military service and spurred him to bring the flavors of Central America to Wilmington, NC. Just last year, he and his now-wife, Laura Tiblier, cut the ribbon for Ceviche’s in late September. Located on Wrightsville Avenue—just before the bridge—it’s beckoned sea-loving locals to stop in and add a touch of tropical splendor to the bleak winter months.

Their business derived from one of life’s curious moments of kismet.

Laura had long-attended yoga classes at the connected building and always had an inclination to do something with the spot that was formerly Coastal Cupcakes. “I knew I wanted something; I had no idea what,” she says. “So, I just kind of held energy.”

“A year before the building became open, she told me, ‘I’m going to do something with that thing,’” Hunter adds.

At the time, there was no concept for what would become Ceviche’s. It was right before a fateful trip to Panama City that things fell

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into place. Laura received a call that the building had become available. The couple checked out the establishment, and though they were uncertain of what they would do, they knew it would be a part of their future. After arriving in Panama City, a seafood hub where folks peddling fish, shrimp and lobster adorn the streets, something just clicked. Laura recalls seeing the myriad ladies who served ceviche in a cup and having a eureka moment.

“Neither of us had ever worked in the restaurant business before,” Hunter tells.

Upon opening, Hunter served as the chef (family and friends had long told him he should sell his ceviche), and Laura manned the books.

Their inexperience certainly didn’t show. Within a month of opening, they entered and placed first in the third annual Taste of Wrightsville Beach. “We’ve had a lot of support from Wrightsville Beach, and they asked us several times if we could enter, so we did,” Laura says. “We got married just the day before, in front of the restaurant.”

As well, with the host of hotels in the restaurant’s vicinity, Ceviche’s also has steadily climbed to the top of review boards for sites like Yelp and TripAdvisor. Though, they haven’t experienced their first full-on tourist season yet, they note a ton of out-of-towners have ventured into Ceviche’s. Novices to the cultural fare and well-traveled lovers of ceviche alike praise their eats. Part of the reason the Tiblier’s chose the name was to begin a conversation with customers who routinely come in curious as to what ceviche is—fresh seafood marinated (i.e. cooked) in citrus flavors, accentuated by various peppers.

“People have a really favorable response to fresh fish and it’s different than pretty much anything that’s around,” Laura tells. “Even though there’s a lot of Latin American flavors in Wilmington, it just is a little bit different.”

Aside from their ceviches, they also carry empanadas (with jalapeño-lime aioli, chicken, beef, or vegetables) that have become a hit with customers. From ropa vieja to arroz con pollo, their entrées have begun to sell more as locals become accustomed to them.

Since opening, they’ve hired chef Sam Cahoon. They have plans to eventually take him to Panama, so he can get his own experience with the source material. Likewise, a more expansive drink menu also has made its way into Ceviche’s. They’ve grown to include not only a plethora of NC pours, but also exotic beers from the region. Though they don’t have Panamanian beers, as the country doesn’t export them, they do sling drinks from Mexico, Nicaragua, Brazil, and the Caribbean. As well, their wine list features offerings from the vines of Chile and Argentina.

As far as their ingredients, shopping local is becoming more of a priority. Much of their seafood comes from Greenville Loop Seafood and Motts Channel Seafood. They purchase produce from La Huerta on Kerr Avenue, and get their greens and microgreens from Progressive Gardens. “I’ve been here for 20 years, and I feel a part of the community now more than ever,” Laura says. “[Hunter] goes to the grocery store and everyone knows him.”

Their roots here have led them to fundraising opportunities. In January they held an event wherein they donated a percentage of their profits to the family of a 14-year-old girl and her aunt, who tragically passed in a fire. “The people, they’re amazing here,” Laura says. “It’s quite an eclectic crowd that comes in. It’s quaint, so everybody ends up talking and sharing stories.”

Currently, the restaurateurs are prepping for their first summer, but catering and an outdoor seating area top their list of future goals.

They already have provided food for the set crew of “Sleepy Hollow,” but due to limited storage health code restrictions have inhibited them from truly delving into the catering biz.

“Every month has been better,” Laura concludes. “I just want people to leave happy.”

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A Helping Horticultural Hand: Shelton Herb Farm continues its legacy

BY Linda Grattafiori ● Devour contributor

For award-winning chefs and discerning homemakers alike, Margaret and Chuck Shelton provide micro-greens year round.

In season, they grow and sell a plethora of herbs, salad greens, cut flowers, vegetables, and perennials for local restaurants, farmers’ markets and farm visitors. More importantly, Margaret offers a helping horticultural hand to all people, wherever she goes, and she goes to a lot of places. ● Above: Margaret Shelton doing her daily routine at Shelton Herb Farm. Photos by Holland Dotts Photography.

12 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

INDUSTRY The first places she visits early in the morning are her state-of-theart greenhouses and cold frames on Shelton Century Farm. Located just west of Wilmington in Brunswick County—surrounded by bays, two beaver ponds and a hardwood forest—this lush landscape has been in the family for 200 years. Stepping up to the plate in 1986, Margaret established Shelton Herb Farm, and began serving the greater Wilmington area with both healthy plants and her vast knowledge of horticulture. If visitors are willing students, this passionate environmentalist will answer any question she can, from herbs in history to making great garden soil. She posts a monthly newsletter on her website (www.sheltonherbfarmnc.com), too.

Margaret not only works, writes and answers questions at her farm, she also shows up to help kindred spirits wherever she is needed. BJ Ryan, director of community programming at Poplar Grove, says Margaret’s commitment to sharing her knowledge and her plants is impressive.

“One year at our Herb and Garden Fair, the weather was horrible; pouring rain,” he says. “It was so bad we told the vendors they could leave if they wanted to. As you can imagine, the large majority did pack up and leave, with only a handful sticking around a little longer.

By the end of the day, the only vendor left was Margaret Shelton, in the rain, on the front yard, with customers at the booth!”

Margaret helped plan Poplar Grove’s first Herb and Garden Fair 23 years ago and has participated in every single one. On March 28 and 29, in the Poplar Grove barn, she taught two classes, “Year Round Gardening—Herbs & Veggies for a 12 Month Harvest” and “Herbs to Grow in Southeastern North Carolina, a Cook’s Dozen.”

This is only one reason Margaret won the coveted YWCA Women of Achievement award in 2011 for her “decades of environmental activism.” The award presentation read in part: “After seven years working at UNCW’s Institute for Biomedical Research, (Margaret established her farm as a teaching place) for sustainable agriculture and organic, pesticide-free farming practices . . . She was a leader in working against BECO, a high-sulfur crude refinery proposed on the Cape Fear River, and in the campaign to stop the Hugo Neu Landfill in Brunswick County. This nominee helped create the Riverfront Farmers’ Market, along with five other markets, (including Waterfront Farmer’s Market in Southport, Shallotte Farmers’ Market, and Poplar Grove Farmers’ Market).

She also donates plants to several community gardens in New Hanover County, and has been in the forefront of sustainable agriculture and organic farming practices.”

If Michael Jordan allowed us to write on his arm from the top of his shoulder to the ends of his fingertips, it would be difficult to find space for all the environmental groups calling Margaret’s name: North Carolina Agriculture Tourism Networking Association, Carolina Stewardship Association, Cape Fear River Watch, Brunswick Cooperative Extension, Feast Down East, Earth Save, Stop Titan, Cape Fear Audubon Society, Carolina Native Plant Society, New Hanover and Brunswick Counties Beekeeper Associations, and Wilmington’s own Hobby Greenhouse Club.

Shelton Herb Farm does greenhouse tours. The farm setting, home to scores of birds, bees and carnivorous plants (Venus’s-flytrap, sundew, butterwort, bladderwort, and pitcher plants), is a real treat. Margaret talks about building greenhouses, and anything else visitors care to ask.

Margaret’s willingness to teach others is particularly appealing to the younger generation. Tripp Engel, Brasserie du Soleil chef at Wrightsville Beach, has used her microgreens, other produce and flowers since the mid-’90s and

says the organic herbs are always fresh. “They have an amazing taste!” Engel notes. “She adapts herbs to what chefs want. They are cut the day of delivery and the price is better than reasonable.”

In 2013 Margaret and Engel received Agrarian Stewardship awards as the outstanding farmer and chef most committed to the use of local produce. In presenting the awards, Leslie Hossfield, cofounder and executive director of Feast Down East, says, “It’s important that we bring everyone to the table! A strong, local food system positively impacts our community, in addition to boosting the local economy.”

Other chefs who have high regard for Margaret include James Doss at Rx/Pembroke’s, Steve Phipps at Mr. P’s Bistro in Southport, Keith Rhodes at Catch, and Marc Piscitello at Circa 1922.

So, what are micro-greens and why do Margaret’s taste so good?

The tiny-leafed vegetables are grown from seed. At Shelton Herb Farm, Margaret and her dedicated staff incorporate green manures, fish emulsion, seaweed, and other “strange-smelling things” into the soil. Organic fertilizers are used in transplants. The farm is famous for its lettuce bowls, which include a mix of lettuces and specialty greens. These bowls make perfect window boxes and thrive in a sunny location.

And don’t forget the bees! “An ‘a-ha’ moment for me came from observing how attractive herbs are to honey bees (the most commonly domesticated honey bee being Italian),” Margaret says.

“They love the tiny, abundant thyme flowers that bloom in the spring. The summer basil that goes so readily to flower is covered with these busy workers who are searching for nectar. The same goes for sage, oregano, rosemary, parsley, fennel, and other herbs from the Mediterranean.”

The saying “so many plants, so little time” applies to Margaret, who considers sleep a luxury. But her love for nature, learning and people keeps her going, and going, and going! “As a farmer and nursery grower, I am an eternal optimist, always believing this year will be the best,” she notes. “Mother Nature is fickle. She keeps us humble, but gives us hope.”

Check out Shelton Herb Farm on Facebook, or visit them in Leland at 340 Goodman Road NE (910-253-5964).

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 13

Sushi Succulence YoSake’s 13-course dining experience, not to miss

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BY Rosa Bianca ● Devour contributor and encore magazine restaurant critic

’m a big fan of trying new things. And I’m a big fan of dining. Dining—not eating out. I like to bring readers to events that they, and I, wouldn’t necessarily find without the benefit of Devour. Recently, a chance conversation at YoSake gave me such an event. On Monday nights the sushi bar at Wilmington’s trendiest Asian-fusion joint offers a 13-course sushi-tasting dinner.

Thirteen courses: The very notion intrigued and terrified me. I’ve been through dinners with seven courses, no problem. But doubling up? Even I had moments where that seemed excessive. However the idea was too good to pass up. Maybe it was my foodie curiosity and maybe it was my impending deadline, but something compelled me to make a reservation as soon as I could.

Associate sushi chef Mitch Jones takes the helm for this special Monday offering. He travels to the fish market in Oak Island in search of choice seafood. He laments how the North Carolina coast offers an abundance of highquality seafood, which is lost to consumers elsewhere. “We just don’t take advantage of it,” he says.

Amusingly enough, Jones was a little behind the eight ball when I arrived. His trip to Oak Island was extended because he arrived as the game warden was conducting his inspection of the fish market. Such is the risk of buying the freshest fish available. Delays can make life difficult.

Careful selection of the best fish available just hours before the tasting is just one element of pulling off a dinner like this. Timing and portion size are crucial when serving guests an intricate meal over multiple courses.

Speaking from experience, I can say that I showed up to dinner quite hungry. Knowing 14 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

FRESH FROM THE SEA: Every Monday night at YoSake Downtown Sushi Lounge, an offering of fresh, local and regional, and unique sushi and sashimi is offered at the sushi bar. 13 courses for $30, and a delicious interaction with their knowledgable sushi chefs. Photo by Matt McGraw.

“I love to eat sushi—those flavors and wasabi and really eating spoonfuls of it ... I would just mix it and put it on everything, literally.”

—David Chang

EAT I would be served 13 plates that night had me eating rather sparingly in the hours beforehand. Jones does a remarkable job of grouping the first few courses tightly to fill the gullet just a touch. He then slows the pace a bit to allow for a more leisurely dining experience.

Sushi makes for an excellent meal to be served in this style. Each course was served in one or two bites (depending on how shy you are about taking a large bite). Portion sizes were, in that sense, self-regulating.

Because Jones uses the best fish he can find on the day he plans to serve it, he typically does little to alter the flavor of the fish itself, and prefers to let the quality of the seafood speak for itself. His preparations are mostly classic, with each cut given a small hand-rubbing of wasabi, wrapped in nori and rice peppered with sesame seeds, then brushed with soy sauce. There are some deviations, esepecially amongst the most exciting servings, but the traditional style is a little refreshing.

I’m not the biggest fan of horseradish. I find it overpowering, but the menu read “no substitutions,” so I put myself in the chef’s hands. I still find wasabi overbearing, but I’m glad I tried the menu as is. I didn’t want to miss out on the full experience.

YoSake only offers this tasting at the sushi bar. This solves multiple problems, which often accompany multicourse dining. Pacing is quite good, as dishes are served on a single plate and Jones simply uses his gloved hand to place each morsel on the plate. This eliminates plating, serving, and clearing at the table, which easily could have added a half an hour to the evening.

More importantly, sitting at the bar allows diners to watch Jones at work and chat with him about each course—how and why it gets the preparation it does. He speaks with the effortless charm of someone comfortable with his craft and sharing it with strangers. Learning about the fish on the plate adds an educational element to the evening. Otherwise, I’d never known a thing about golden tile fish ‘til saddling up to that sushi bar.

I’ll go into a little detail about what I sampled, but I want to be clear on one thing: There is no telling what will be served if you make a reservation. I hope you get the chance to try some of the wonderful preparations I did, but I promise nothing. I particularly loved how Jones gave the grouper, served as nigiri, a few seconds under a torch, which left some blackened marks on the white flesh. The small burn offers a mellow charred flavor and, as I learned from Jones, it weakens the connective tissue of the fish to make it more palatable and easier to chew.

YoSake no longer serves eel as it has been over-fished. So Jones is always looking for fun alternatives. The smoked triggerfish in eel sauce is a delightful nod in that direction. It’s a fair approximation of eel and should satisfy even the pickiest of sushi connoisseurs.

The real highlight is the final three courses, a trio of tuna, each cut from a different part of the fish. From low-fat tuna, most commonly served in tuna rolls, to the fatty variety from the underbelly of the fish, “toro,” it’s a walkthrough of tuna’s different styles and flavors. But nothing tops the spicy tuna: A medium-fat tuna with sesame oil and sriracha, mixed and marinated, tastes so delicious that even after 13 courses, my companion and I couldn’t help but order a roll of it to finish the evening. It is delicately spicy, as to not mask the flavor of the fish. The garlic and pepper in the sauce, mellowed by the oil, accentuates the tuna beautifully.

YoSake will be offering the 13-course sushi tasting through the spring. Summer just gets too busy for it. I implore everyone to try it.

Don’t be intimidated by the number of courses or the possibility you’ll be served something you don’t particularly like because you can’t see a menu beforehand. This is the very essence of dining. I promise you it’s so much better than just going out to eat.

40 BEERS ON TAP Great beer needs some great food to go along with it, and we’ve got both! We also have a Lil’ Tappers Kids Menu, so bring the whole family to OTap.

7324 Market Street • 910-821-8185 OPEN DAILY at 11am for Lunch & Dinner

www.ogdentaproom.com SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 15

BRING IT DOWNTOWN! PLACES TO SHOP IN DOWNTOWN WILMINGTON W W W. A Q U A F E D O R A . C O M

In the Cotton Exchange, 331 North Front St. • (910) 762-1062

Follow us on Instagram (@aquafedora) to see our latest styles and outfit inspiration!

Cocktail Mixes • Balsamic Vinegars Imported Traditional EVOO • Hand Stuffed Olives Infused Olive Oils • Specialty Oils Spreads & Dips • White Balsamic Vinegars

DOWNTOWN: 30 N. FRONT STREET 910.399.7358

SKATE. SURF. SHOP.

LUMINA STATION: 1900 EASTWOOD RD. UNIT 40 910.679.4745

Visit us online at www.BeachOliveOils.com

Clothing Accessories LOCAL Art Gifts

910.341.0036

5 N Front St. • (910) 763-3500 WWW.momentumboarding.com

108 N Front St

* M e n t i o n t h i s a d t o r e c e i v e 1 0 % o f f a n y p u r c h a s e a t pa r t i c i pa t i n g lo c a t i o n s.

Holland Dotts Photography

what we LOVE TO EAT

CARRIBEAN LUAU FLATBREAD AND MANGO MAGIC Tropical Smoothie Café 2804 S College Rd. • (910) 769-3939

Indulge in the chicken, mozzarella, pineapple, romaine and Jamaican jerk sauce on a toasted flatbread ($4.20), which pairs delightfully with their Mango Magic Smoothie, made with mango, pineapple and nonfat yogurt ($4.91).

BUILD-YOUR-OWN SALAD Brasserie du Soleil 1908 Eastwood Rd. #118 • (910) 256-2226 At Brasserie du Soleil, the make your own salad starts at $9.50, so diners can load up the veggies and proteins to their heart’s content. From hard-boiled eggs and cheese to cucumbers and spinach leaves, onions and peppers, and so much more, it’s a perfect light lunch or dinner.

FLOUNDER ALMONDINE Boca Bay 2025 Eastwood Rd. • (910) 256-1887 Boca Bay’s extensive menu specializes in seafood. Don’t miss out on their flounder almondine for a taste of rich decadence, made with fresh flounder, a citrus-almond sauce, Lyonnaise potatoes, and haricot verts. $22.95

SWEET SIX PACK Wake N Bake Donuts 1401 N Lake Park Blvd. Ste 46, Carolina Beach (910) 707-0166 Wake N Bake Donuts, Carolina Beach’s newest sweet spot, serves up gourmet pockets of fried dough unlike any. Try their Maui Wauie, Couch Potato, Wake N Bacon, Pebble Rock, Purple White, and Blue Sprinkles. $7.50, 1/2 dozen SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 17

sophisticated food...casual style

WWW.BLUESURFCAFE.COM SPRING MENU COMING IN APRIL GREAT OUTDOOR PATIO EXPANDED BEER AND WINE MENU

250 Racine Drive Wilmington, NC Racine Commons 910.523.5362

P embroke ’ s 1125 A, M ilitAry C utoff r d .

(910) 239-9153 www . peMbrokesCuisine . CoM A s eAsonAlly i nspired , l oCAlly -s ourCed s outhern C uisine d ining e xperienCe .

speCiAls:

tUESDAY: 1/2 off bAr Menu froM 5-7pM And $3 seleCt drAfts. wEDNESDAY: 1/2 priCe bAr Menu And $2.50 red oAk lAger And red oAk helles.

THURSDAY:1/2 off glAsses of wine And $8 wine sAMpler.

SUNDAY BRUNCH: every sundAy froM 10AM til 3pM. SUNDAY NIGHT: $2 off old fAshioned CoCktAils.

18 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

hAve your wedding reheArsAl dinner in our privAte dining rooM!

Holland Dotts Photography

what we LOVE TO EAT

TOM YUM SOUP PORK CHEEKS Caprice Bistro 10 Market St. • (910) 815-0810 When dining at downtown’s prime French restaurant, don’t miss out on Carpice’s succulent pork cheeks starter. They’re braised flamande-style and served with crostinis to sop up the rich flavor.

Served with a Duval, it’s a perfect bite. $10.95

STEAM POT Shuckin’ Shack 109 Market St. • (910) 833-8622 A half-pound of shrimp, a full pound of crab legs, a dozen oysters, a dozen clams, two pieces of corn, two sides of coleslaw, and all the melted butter and cocktail sauce you want complement this finger-smackin’ bucket of goodness. Two can eat on it for $38.95.

YoSake Sushi Lounge 33 S. Front St. • (910) 763-3172 When not dining on their famed sushi, try one of many options from their main menu, such as their Tom Yum—a hot-and-sour soup, served with chunks of shrimp, tofu, cilnatro, and mushrooms. It’s only $4 a cup or $6 for a bowl.

CHOCOLATE FONDUE The Little Dipper 138 S. Front St. • (910) 251-0433

The Little Dipper serves up a social experience in their fondue restaurant, wherein diners can cook their own meals over lots of chatter and wine. Don’t miss out on their sinful Half and Half, featuring dark chocolate and peanut butter, and served with strawberries, bananas, pineapple, cream puffs, marshmallows, and more. $12 small / $19 large SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 19

20 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Holland Dotts Photography

what we LOVE TO EAT

MARGHERITA PIZZA BANH MI Detour Deli and Cafe 510 1/2 Red Cross St. • (910) 538-4093 Banh Mis are all the rage in the Brooklyn Arts District’s newest deli and cafe, Detour. Made with numerous meats—they even offer multiple flavors of spam (yep—don’t knock it ‘til ya try it!)—the French baguette comes topped with pickled daikon, carrot, cucumber, jalapeño, cilantro, sriracha mayo, and soy sauce. $7.99.

Brooklyn Pizza Co. 6932 Market St. • (910) 395-5558 Though they serve a multitude of pies, from meat only to vegetarian to vodka pizza, we’re a sucker for the tried-and-true margherita. Made with homemade, fresh mozzarella cheese, fresh sliced tomatoes and basil, it’s comfort food at its finest. $18.50

RIBS

PORK TORTA

Poor Piggy’s Food Truck www.poorpiggys.com • (910) 632-4229

La Guera Taqueria Y Restaurant 6620-F Gordon Rd. • (910) 392-6682

Poor Piggy’s ribs are lip-smackin’ divinity! Follow them on Facebook to find out where the food truck will be parked, and be sure to just go ahead and order ribs in bulk. You can get a full rack for $21.95! Slow-roasted over night and rubbed with Ed Coulbourn’s special spices and seasonings, your stomach will thank you for days.

La Guera is a gem of a Mexican restaurant, with a menu steeped in traditional Latin cuisine. Their pork torta will leave you stuffed for days on end. The monstrous sandwich is topped with choice of meat (go for the carnitas), topped with lettuce, onion, tomatoes, avocados, mayo, and jalapeños. $8.75.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 21

TO

EAT! Recipes to try at home

Food Your Feelings: Local blogger shares latest round of recipes from her kitchen

BY Emily Caulfield ● Devour contributor, Food Your Feelings blogger, http://dearemilycaulfield.wordpress.com.

It is a mad scientist’s power that comes from making something wonderful and brand new.

A singular dish that was just a grocery list of disparate ingredients, moments or hours before. The golden, shimmering alchemy of cooking is one of the ways I fill my life with warmth and light. I cook home food; no molecular gastronomics, no loopy swirls on the plate. It is a remarkable thing to be confident in providing for yourself—not just surviving, but creating, often out of very little, a feast, nourishing and magnificent in its rustic simplicity.

herb and run a knife through it. Halve the avocado and use a spoon to scoop out small dollops. Throw this goodness into a huge bowl, and use a smaller bowl to make the dressing, which I like to keep as light as possible, just a few glugs of good olive oil and about one lime’s worth of juice. Salt to your taste; I prefer my dressing more limey than sharp. Remove the pita from the oven, let cool, and tear or break into small pieces. Pour the dressing over the salad and then add the pita croutons, and fold the salad gently to dress everything evenly. Serve to yourself, and people you love a whole bunch, because this is the best.

NIÇOISE SANDWICH The salad niçoise is one of my favorite classic dishes; it’s proteinpacked yet light, with a bunch of interesting tastes and textures going on—plus, it’s a great way to use leftover eggs and/or potatoes. However, it’s not always convenient to sit and have a leisurely salad when you’ve got important things to do, so I made up a way to be French and fantastic, on the go.

GREENEST SALAD My very favorite thing on earth. Honestly, I make enough to fill a satellite dish and eat the entire thing alone. It’s sharp and crunchy, creamy and tart, cool and refreshing. I can’t get enough of it, and neither will you!

INGREDIENTS: Romaine lettuce • Pita bread • 1 serrano pepper • Green onions Avocado • Bunch mint • Bunch cilantro • Olive oil • Lime • Salt METHOD: For me, this is usually a race to rip up everything and get it into my body as quickly as possible, because I really do love this meal dearly.

The idea is to get the pita in the oven to crisp up brownly while you go ahead with chopping and tearing. So while it toasts, chop the romaine into bite-size pieces, and slice the green onion thinly, through the light green parts. Dice the serrano finely, and pull off fat handfuls of each 22 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

INGREDIENTS: Baguette, sliced thinly and diagonally • 1 hardboiled egg, sliced into thin rounds • 1 small roasted red potato, cold, sliced into thin rounds • 1 packed solid white albacore, drained • 1 tomato, sliced thinly • Romaine leaves, torn • Niçoise olives • Olive oil • Lemon • Salt and pepper METHOD: First we have to make our sandwich spread: Throw the olives in a food processor and pulse a few times with your oil and lemon, a pinch of salt and pepper, then set aside. Next, grab everything else and make a dang sandwich! I like a long, ficelle-style bread. If you can’t find it, then it can be approximated by slicing up a baguette, which is what I usually have to do. Put a layer of leaves on your bread, then the egg, the potato, the tuna, the tomato. Spread the olive mixture on the top slice, and add it to the party. Wrap it in foil, and eat it wherever you want. Niçoise, liberated! Vive la France!

EAT baking powder • 1/2 tsp baking soda • 1/3 c granulated sugar • 8 tbsp salted butter • 2 large egg yolks • 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract • Powdered sugar for finishing • 1 cup dulce de leche (recipe below)

FENNELLY SAUSAGE WITH SWISS CHARD AND ORECCHIETTE Truth time: This is no family heirloom recipe; although, it does taste like it should have been in everyone’s family for years, because it’s unbelievable. I came across it on Instagram actually, on a post by Mindy Kaling, who said this dish, from Osteria Mozza in LA, is one of her favorite things; a co-star, Ike Barinholtz, had mastered the recipe years ago and made it for her. And if those goofballs can do it, I thought, so can we!

INGREDIENTS: 3/4 lb fennel sausage • 1 bunch Swiss chard, ribs removed and reserved • 12 oz orechiette pasta • 1 cup chicken stock, more if needed • Large yellow onion, sliced thinly • Few cloves garlic, minced • Olive oil • 1 to 2 tbsp red wine vinegar • Few tbsps plain breadcrumbs • Jalapeño or serrano pepper, diced finely • 1 to 2 tbsp butter • Freshly grated parmesan (the more the merrier) • Handful parsley, washed and chopped • Salt and ground pepper • 1/2 to 1 cup water METHOD: While you wait for your water to boil, separate the ribs from the leaves of the Swiss chard. Run a knife roughly through them and set aside. Warm olive oil on medium high, add the ribs, and saute them on high for three minutes. Turn the heat down, and add garlic, onion, jalapeño or serrano, and salt. Cook, stirring often to prevent browning, for 10 or 12 minutes. Add a little water to the pan bit by bit to sweat and soften the onion without browning—but not too much—just so the pan is never dry. Fold the chard leaves into the pot, adjust the salt, reduce heat to low, cover and cook for 10 to 15 minutes.

As that’s simmering away, let’s get to the sausage. In a separate pan, sear it first on each side for two minutes, then brown the rest, breaking it up into tiny pieces and sprinkling with the red wine vinegar until it’s cooked through. Add the sausage to the chard pot, with the cup of chicken stock. Cook together for a few minutes, stirring constantly, then add the butter, stir gently until it’s all melted, turn off the heat, but leave it on the burner.

Add salt to the boiling water and pour in the pasta, cooking 11 minutes or until al dente. Drain, but reserve 2 tablespoons of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the sausage and chard, fold to combine, grate over the parmesan and pour in the breadcrumbs. Let sit five minutes, covered, then sprinkle with fresh parsley and serve! It will be amazing!

ALFAJORES Alfajores. Alfa-jores. A party and pantry staple for many South Americans, it feels good just to say it: round and mellow and tender on the tongue, just like the little shortbread cookies themselves. A cookie sandwich, a la Oreo, alfajores are traditionally filled with dulce de leche.

They’re easy to make, lazy even, but they do take time. This is a slowSunday-in-the-kitchen-kind-of treat; just make enough to last all week.

INGREDIENTS: Heaping 3/4 cup bread flour • 1 cup cornstarch • 1/2 tsp salt • 1 tsp

METHOD: Making a can sweetened condensed milk magically turn into dulce de leche is easy, but it takes three hours, so plan accordingly. Just fill a large pot with water and bring to a rolling boil, peel off the label and drop in the can (carefully!). It needs to boil for three straight hours, just make sure the can is submerged at all times. You may need to boil water in a kettle and add it to the pot periodically, since the lid will be off the whole time and the water will be evaporating like a mug. After three hours, fish out the can using tongs or a slotted spoon, and place on a heat-resistant surface to cool. Let it cool completely (about two hours) before popping open, to avoid a burning caramel explosiontype situation. Once you do open it though, mix it with a spatula and party. It’s awesome! It will last three or four weeks refrigerated in a sealed container. Make it beforehand and you’ll be able to make alfajores at a moment’s notice!

For the cookies: Combine cornstarch, flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk a bit to blend, and set aside.

Next, cream together the sugar and butter in a larger bowl. Be sure to stop the mixer and scrape down the sides once or twice to make certain everything is well-integrated. When the mixture is light and fluffy, after about 3 minutes with a hand mixer on medium, add the egg yolks and the vanilla. Blend well, about a minute, and then begin adding the dry ingredients slowly, mixing on low. Blend everything evenly on low for another minute. The mixture will be sandy and disparate, not very doughy at all. This is OK! It’s going to make a very silky, crumbly cookie.

Dump the mixture onto plastic wrap and form it into a ball. Refrigerate until firm, 45 minutes to an hour. Next, preheat the oven to 350 and lightly flour your work surface. Place the dough ball here and roll out to 1/4” thickness. The dough will crack and crumble, but don’t worry!

Just repress it together. Next, punch out rounds with a 2” cookie cutter.

You’ll have somewhere between 24 to 30; just make sure it’s an even amount, since we’ll be making sammies with them! Re-roll the dough scraps and punch it all out until everything’s gone.

Bake on parchment-lined baking sheets for 12 to 15 minutes, cookies should be pale on top and lightly golden on the bottom. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely.

Once they’re cooled, turn over half the rounds and spread a couple teaspoons of dulce de leche on the goldy bottoms. The pale side should be on the “outside.” Close the sandwiches with another round and dust with powdered sugar. Be careful, though: As soon as you have them, you’ll be hooked. They’ll creep into your waking moments ... you’ll taste them in your dreams!

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 23

Cocktails and Conversations

Sazerac, Vieux Carre, a la Louisiane

BY Joel Finsel ● Devour contributor, mixologist and author of ‘Cockatils and Conversations from the Astral Plane’

O

f the 28 states sufficiently motivated to select “official” beverages, 21 chose milk. Floridians picked orange juice. Mainers, Moxie (a soda made with gentian root). Nebraskans went with Kool Aid. South Carolinians, locallygrown tea.

Only Alabama chose straight booze, specifically Conecuh Ridge whiskey. But a few other places chose cocktails. Puerto Rico claimed the piña colada in 1978. More recently, the DC Craft Bartenders Guild led a resurgence behind the Rickey. Democratic lobbyist “Colonial” Joe K. Rickey bought Shoomaker’s Bar on Pennsylvania Avenue in 1883. His signature cocktail was made with fresh lime, the house rye whiskey and club soda. Turns out, Rickey never much cared for gin.

In 2008 Louisianans rallied behind the Sazerac cocktail, but the vote failed in Baton Rouge. As a compromise, the city of New Orleans took up the right.

It’s one of my favorite cocktails because it shows a direct link of the cocktail back to its apothecarial origins. The earliest version was concocted by a pharmacist named Antoine Amédée Peychaud. Of Creole extraction, Peychaud fled the French-controlled colony of Saint-Domingue (Haiti) in 1795 to settle in the French Quarter. Sometime in the 1830s, he began mixing together his own blends of medicinal tinctures in alcohol. Today we know them as Peychaud’s bitters.

Peychaud mixed his bitters with cognac, as well as a little sugar and whatever citrus juice was on hand. He didn’t yet call this elixir a Sazerac, but his bitters are an essential element: a ruby-colored liquid in a clear bottle, sold for about $6 today, and found behind any decent cocktail bar. The smell, when compared to other medicinal bitters like Angos24 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Joel Finsel, bartender at Manna.

“Aside from its medicinal history, today’s Sazarec embodies all the essential elements that go into a well-balanced drink. It has a strong spirit: rye whiskey, which is spicier and less sweet than bourbon. It also contains three dashes of Peychaud’s bitters, a cube of sugar, a lemon peel, and a gentle rinse of absinthe.”

IMBIBE tura, is surprisingly floral and light. Moreover, Peychaud mixed his potions in a small egg cup called a “coquetier,” which some believe may have been mispronounced as “cocktail” so many times the name stuck.

Aside from the medicinal element, today’s Sazerac embodies all of the essential elements that go into a well-balanced drink. It has a strong spirit: rye whiskey, which is spicier and less sweet than bourbon.

It also contains three dashes of Peychaud’s bitters, a cube of sugar, a lemon peel, and a gentle rinse of absinthe. In the same order, I have named the strong, bitter, sweet, acidic, and aromatic elements. Once the proportions are right and each element is balanced equally with the others, a sort of flavor activation occurs. For being made of almost entirely booze, a carefully crafted Sazerac is surprisingly smooth to sip.

Today, most bartenders don’t think twice about using rye. What many don’t realize is that the original Sazerac was in fact named for the cognac, Sazerac de forge et fils, from which it was made. Whiskey wasn’t used until France ran out of brandy—its vineyards devastated by tiny sap-sucking aphids in the late 19th century. Cognac producers required years to rebound. Once all but the most cavernous wine and brandy cellars had been depleted, early mixologists at the Sazerac House in New Orleans began to experiment with whiskey.

Knowing this history, when a customer asks for a Sazerac, I often find myself asking: Which version should I make?

In “The Craft of the Cocktail,” Dale DeGroff suggests a compromise. His recipe calls for equal parts of cognac and rye whiskey. My suggestion for bartenders is to talk to your customers about their preferences. Ask them if they know about the cocktail’s past. It not only proves that you know what you are doing but that you care enough to want to make it right. If you are a guest, seek out your favorite bartender early in the night, before it gets too crowded, and ask him to make two, one each way, to be tasted side-by-side.

The method is unique. To make, first chill a glass by adding ice.

Then add just enough absinthe to coat the inside of the cup. In a separate glass, toss in a sugar cube, three dashes of Peychaud’s bitters, and a splash of water. Using a long, wooden muddler (or mortar), crush the sugar cube. The whiskey and/or cognac comes next, two ounces total. Stir well for 20 seconds. Discard the icy-absinthe mixture out of the first glass, careful to turn the otherwise empty cup around so that the remaining absinthe coats the entire inside. Finally, strain the mixture into the seasoned glass (without ice), and pinch a lemon peel so that the oil is released around the surface. Some drop the peel in, others toss it away.

When you pick up to sip, the anise scent of the absinthe mixed with the lemon oil come first. The nose perks up before the tongue tastes a drop. Like most of the good things in life, a proper cocktail is all about balance. That’s why to leave in any more absinthe than the bare minimum of the glaze will overpower the other ingredients.

Yet, as I travel and order Sazeracs in different cities, I’ve started to wonder what a pharmacist like Peychaud would think of all the absinthe that is simply thrown away. Knowing the medicinal history of absinthe, I imagine he might cringe to see so much dumped down the drain. To him, it might seem like we are pouring penicillin in the gutter.

So I began to ask other bartenders: What should we do with the extra absinthe, post rinse?

Gary Crunkleton, owner of The Crunkleton in Chapel Hill, suggested I might be using too much absinthe to be concerned. He said the wash only required “a few drops.” Bartender Alex Flynn, of Foundation in Raleigh, said even though he personally prefers the rinse, most bar owners frown upon it because it’s wasteful. He suggested using

an atomizer, or a mini-spray bottle, to provide just a whisper of absinthe. I feel as though watching absinthe’s transformation from clear to cloudy is part of the experience, though. It gives us a reason to talk about it, to help clear its name after being outlawed for a century. So I decided a couple of years ago (though I’m sure I’m not the first to do this) to simply pour the absinthe into a third cup and serve it as a sidecar to the Sazerac.

After I started doing this, a co-worker cautioned that it was probably not the smartest business move. He said giving away something extra may be the difference between that customer ordering a second round or not. True, but in my opinion, it’s only a sip. And I’d rather drink it myself than throw it away.

The more I thought about it, the more I realized that if any bar would have an enlightened policy regarding the absinthe rinse, it would be the Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone, birthplace of the Sazerac’s sister cocktail, the Vieux Carré. I called on a Friday afternoon and spoke to a bartender named Marvin. According to his observations, he said he and his coworkers throw the absinthe away without a second thought. “It’s really only an eighth of an ounce,” he said.

“Have you ever offered the absinthe as a sidecar,” I asked, “or seen anyone else do so?”

The line was quiet for a few seconds.

“What about if I ordered a Sazerac and asked for the rinse as a sidecar,” I ventured, “would you give it to me?”

“Of course,” he said, “but only if you know enough to ask.”

Come enjoy delicious food, waterfront dining and panoramic views of the best sunsets Wilmington has to offer! www.elijahs.com

2 Ann St. Wilmington, NC • 910-343-1448 SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 25

The Tastebud Genome Project: Wilmington-based app Next Glass uses science to help consumers select beer and wine

BY Bethany Turner ● Devour freelancer

I have an adventurous palate when it comes to beer, but that wasn’t always the case. In college I stuck to vodka while my friends played beer pong with Natty Light. I thought that kind of booze tasted like soggy bread. And then I discovered amber ales. Since falling for Fat Tire at 21, I’ve expanded my repertoire by hundreds of beers. I have an insatiable passion for trying every brew I can get my hands on and have developed a palate that can pick out the subtle nuances in each. Now there are many styles I adore and a slight few I can’t stomach, but I have an appreciation for every kind of craft brew and the work that goes into making it. ● In the lab of downtown Wilmington’s NextGlass, founded by Kurt Taylor (cover model). Photos by Holland Dotts Photography.

26 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

IMBIBE As for wine, I fall flat. After sampling too many muscadine wines, I now go for anything red, but I have trouble figuring out what makes my tastebuds say, “That’s the one!” I stick to a few bottles I know at the grocery store, but further than that, I can’t determine the characteristics I love in wine like I can for beer. Do I enjoy bold, berry, smoky, chocolate? What drives my taste for the perfect glass of red wine?

Thankfully, Wilmingtonian Kurt Taylor shared in my pain. After following a waiter’s suggestion for a certain bottle of wine the table ended up hating, he and his father, George, felt there had to be a more concrete way to select wine or beer than relying on subjective reviews. All of our tastebuds are different, and that waiter’s favorite just wasn’t the best wine for Kurt. My friends’ favorite beers, from IPA’s to lambics, are not necessarily my own—but it doesn’t mean the brews aren’t good. It just means we’re all suited for our own unique tastes.

Kurt, a graduate of UNC Chapel Hill’s Kenan-Flagler Business School, is 26 years old and has been named to Forbes’ 2015 30 Under 30 list. He also was dubbed Entrepreneur of the Year in the 2014 Coastal Entrepreneur Awards. All the buzz is thanks to his groundbreaking invention, an app called Next Glass.

Next Glass, by the basics, is a tool that suggests wine and beer users may like, based on what they’ve already rated. With over 250,000 downloads in the first three weeks in the Apple store, Next Glass continues to grow and gain national recognition for the revolutionary science.

“I believe strongly in what we’re doing here at Next Glass, and while I wasn’t expecting any personal accolades, I’m not at all surprised our team is making waves,” Kurt shares. “We have an amazing group here that has developed some cutting-edge technology. Seeing them gain recognition for their hard work is outstanding, but we still have a lot to accomplish, so we’ll be keeping the pedal down and continue to build on this momentum.”

Like many topics, science is the only way to discover reliable information. Kurt, George, and Next Glass COO Trace Smith understood this and found the David H. Murdock Research Institute (DHMRI) in Kannapolis, NC, which possesses a laboratory with state-of-the-art instrumentation. The men headed to DHMRI to test a magnitude of wine of each of the instruments available, and the data collected was cross-referenced with taste trials.

The team unearthed the most valuable tools: an AU400 Chemical Analyzer and a High-Performance Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometer. The chemical analyzer’s real job is to detect the levels of ethanol (alcohol) and glucose (sugar) in blood samples. But it works just as well for wine and beer.

The mass spectrometer is where the magic happens. Commonly used to analyze urine for drug screening, the Next Glass spectrometer magnifies over 20,000 molecular compounds to create the most accurate analysis for each beer and wine sample.

What does that mean for the consumer? Well, the team at Next Glass is able to use these chemical profiles to create a genome for beer and wine. Our taste buds have a signature, and Next Glass can help us discover new beverages that follow our unique pattern.

Once the app is downloaded, the user is asked to rate a few beers on a four-star scale. I started with my number-one favorite: Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier. I then scrolled through some of the other brands, rating each beer with two, three or four stars.

The app suggested I start rating things I don’t like, too—so Budweiser and PBR, among others, got the lowest one-star rating.

The app is really put to use when shopping: Next Glass opens

to a scanner paired with the phone’s camera, and the user scans a wine or beer label. Once the app picks it up and finds the beverage in the system, a 100-point rating scale pops up. It tells the percentage for which the user may like the drink. Once the user clicks on the hexagon of information, it flips to provide ABV, carbs and calorie count.

As a test I scanned beers I hadn’t rated but knew I loved. The first scan proved correct: Allagash White was a match for me at over 98 points. Well done, I thought.

The “Explore” option on the app is neat; the user can sit on the couch and scroll through beers, seeing what’s a match (or not).

For me, Stone IPA gets 93.7 and Shiner White Wing gets 96.6, but Woodchuck Hopsation Hard Cider only gets 52.2.

My favorite innovation to Next Glass is the friend feature.

While the app itself is great for one user, Next Glass allows folks to connect and pair up for a scan. So, if I’m planning a homecooked meal for my boyfriend, I can saunter down the aisle with his profile linked to my scanner, and find a beer that works for both of us. A wheat beer might get over 90 for me but a 70 for him; an overly hopped IPA will turn the table. But a pale ale with citrus hops may be right on the money for us both, and Next Glass will tell me which one we’ll both love, even though we’ve never tried it ourselves.

“Connecting with friends through the app is extremely important to us,” Kurt explains. “Drinking is a social experience and providing users with an opportunity to share and see friends’ scores has been very popular. Before now, the idea of gifting or splitting bottles of wine has been challenging—you have no idea whether

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or not they’re going to like it. Since Next Glass has this social component, you can now find something you know they’ll love.

There’s something really special about that.”

While testing the app, I did run into some trouble at Total Wine in Winston-Salem. I scanned some small-batch brews that didn’t pull up in the system. So I did a manual search; thus, I found a few of the beers I wanted to try weren’t available in the app.

At Next Glass’ Wilmington laboratory, Dr. Connell Cunningham—the app’s chief scientific officer, who earned his Ph.D. in Analytical Chemistry from UNC Chapel Hill—has fine-tuned the data-retrieval process to be able to run 160 samples per day. So Next Glass is adding new beverages to the system regularly.

It did take a lot of hard work to get the app up and running, however. In the fall of 2014, Next Glass created a Beer Census team to travel the country and gather samples from thousands of brews. “[We hit] 39 cities in 60 days,” Kurt tells. “The Beer Census was born out of necessity, but proved to be one of our strongest PR campaigns. Wine is a fairly regionalized product that we can order in large quantities. Beer, on the other hand, is hyperlocalized— people in Wilmington care about our homegrown brews, but those drinks don’t usually make it out of North Carolina. However, knowing how important they are, we had to figure out a way to test them. So the Beer Census began as a way for us to collect everyone’s favorite local beers. To date, they’ve collected over 10,000 bottles, and they will soon be going out on their third journey. Every stop they make, the local news visits them and wants to hear all about their trip and find out how they stumbled into one of the coolest jobs around. The Beer Census has been a great adventure for us, and it’s helped introduce Next Glass to people

all over the country.”

In Wilmington Kurt relies on a team of 17, spread across software development, marketing and science. What started as an idea around a dinner table turned into local job creation.

“I believe it takes three things to recruit talented individuals to a company,” Kurt begins. “You need a cool project (something interesting and challenging to work on); you need to be well-capitalized; and you need other driven, like-minded team members that people want to work with. If you can piece these things together, you’ll be able to attract great people. It’s remarkable how much progress Wilmington has made over the past few years [across many industries]. We have some great companies in town like Live Oak, nCino, N2, and Castle Branch that are driving this growth, and we’re really excited to be a part of it.”

Further integrating Next Glass into the Wilmington business scene, the laboratory soon will be housed at 21 N. Front St. “Our new office will be in a historic building downtown, so as you would imagine, renovations are a delicate process,” Kurt explains.

“Things are coming along nicely. We are really excited to be down there and think it will be a great place for us to grow. Moving to this space allows us to bring our lab and development team together—we’re very excited to have everyone under one roof!”

In the future, Kurt hopes Next Glass will become a tool for restaurants and grocery stores that help guests select their best beverage, though the plans are being kept under wraps. “There are definitely some big things coming up and we’re really excited to announce them,” he muses. “But you’re going to have to stay tuned to find out!”

To learn more about Next Glass, visit www.nextglass.co.

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THE KEG! Reviews and rambles on brew

Smitten and Then Some!

Spring and summer brews frolic in fresh flavor

BY Bethany Turner ● Devour contributor I don’t know about you guys, but I was burnt out on pumpkin beers well before Halloween. While I’ve reveled in the array of stouts and porters that are more readily available in the wintertime, I am thrilled for the refreshing twist spring and summer put on the craft-beer market. Fresh hop flavors and fruity innovation reigns, while spice still plays a major role in the brewing process. Without further ado, let’s raise a glass to sunshine, sweet tunes and laid-back vibes.

SMITTEN GOLDEN RYE ALE Bell’s Brewery, Inc. Comstock, MI 6% ABV This old-recipe brew was originally crafted as part of a series of rye beers in the Eccentric Café, a hip spot with over 30 beers on tap next door to the Bell’s General Store in downtown Kalamazoo. Along with live music and food, the café serves up pints of Smitten Golden Rye Ale each spring. The beer has become one of my favorite seasonals. Smitten’s citrus and resinous hops are smooth operators, mellowed out by the earthiness of the rye malt. Pouring clear and light golden, Smitten is super crisp and a great option for a spring day outdoors.

HOP DROP ‘N’ ROLL NODA Brewing Company Charlotte, NC 7.2% ABV 81 IBU This North Carolina brew is a recipient of the 2014 World Beer Cup Gold Award and a great representation of an American-style IPA. On the nose, the super aromatic hops give off floral and tropical-fruit notes, while grassy and citrusy flavors meet a malt backbone for a subtly sweet and viscous finish. Medium-bodied and effervescent, Hop Drop ‘n’ Roll pours clear with a deep golden, almost light amber color, thanks to the rich malt profile. Not to be outdone by malts, the beer is 30 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

hopped three times in the brewing process, highlighting Citra and Amarillo hops toward the end of the boil. It’s available yearround but is oh-so-great in the warmer months. Enjoy this one for moderate bitterness and delicious, well-rounded flavor. illusive traveler Traveler Beer Company Burlington, VT 4.4% ABV 7 IBU Spring hasn’t sprung without a shandy! Luckily, Traveler Beer Company is an expert in the field. For a twist on the traditional lemon or lime, Illusive Traveler is a spritzy little ale made with real grapefruit. The result is full-fledged grapefruit aroma and flavor, melding with two-row malted barley, malted wheat and Hallertau hops.

Original Münchner Hell Paulaner Brauerei Munich, Germany 4.9% ABV 14 IBU No spring-beer shopping list is complete without a maibock, and I would be remiss if I didn’t direct readers to a true German example. Specifically, this maibock is Paulaner’s number-one export and has been brewed with the same recipe since the 1800s.

Why are maibocks so integral to spring drinking?

Well, maibock literally means “May bock,” as in the month of May, which is when these beers are brewed to be released. In Germany maibocks are a transition between winter’s stronger, darker ales and summer’s super light brews. Paulaner’s version has a more pronounced hop profile (Hallertau Tradition) than its wintry brethren for a refreshing spiciness that still remains light due to its Pilsner malt.

Tangerine Wheat Lost Coast Brewery Eureka, CA 5.5% ABV 5 IBU While we’re on the subject of spring and summer necessities, everyone has a summertime go-to that most people have heard of, like 21st Amendment Brewery’s Hell or High

IMBIBE try (at least) once!

Watermelon or RJ Rockers’ Son of a Peach. If you haven’t met Lost Coast’s Tangerine Wheat, let me introduce you to the next big thing.

This delightful citrus ale is crafted with natural tangerine flavors, and results in a taste as sweet and spot-on as tangerine hard candy.

Hazy and orange in color, the beer is made with wheat and crystal malts and finished with Perle hops, which is a very clean, subtle and pleasant variety.

Bigfoot Barleywine Style Ale Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Chico, CA and Mills River, NC 9.6% ABV 90 IBU For those who thought warmer weather meant no more highoctane brews, Sierra Nevada offers up its “cult classic,” the Bigfoot Barleywine Style Ale, around springtime each year. Just because the trend is crisper, lighter, and hoppy or fruity, doesn’t mean we can’t sometimes enjoy bigger beers. This ruby-red brew comes with a sweet and floral aroma, both from the malts and hops respectively, but the nose can also detect the high alcohol content. Straight from the fridge, the Chinook bittering hops are better detected. Yet, as we let the beer rest to a warmer temperature, the nuances of the caramel malt and sweet alcohol overtake the hop characteristics and reveal a more true-to-barleywine flavor.

Pair this brew with a cheese plate to be enjoyed outdoors with the Wilmington sunset as the backdrop. It’s easy to see why a barleywine can be a warmer month brew. (Plus, it can be aged and enjoyed all year!)

Framboise Lambic Lindemans Brewery Vlezenbeek, Belgium 2.5% ABV Lambic is a very unique style of beer; the brewing process relies on spontaneous fermentation, in which a brew is exposed to the wild yeasts and bacteria that exists in the air where it is being brewed. While this may seem a foreign concept to some, spontaneous fermentation is actually the oldest brewing method in the world.

Lambic itself has a taste between cider and sherry, and can be consumed as-is or used as the base for fruit lambics. Fruit lambics use whole fruit or juice/syrup as a second fermentation, and the entire ordeal results in very tart, fruity flavors.

In the case of Lindemans Framboise, raspberry is the star of the show. Pouring a deep red-purple hue and offering a bit of bubbly, Lindemans Framboise will go over well with fans of cider, shandy and most wheat beers. Yet, it’s something every beer connoisseur should

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What is Food?

Changing our food values one bite at a time

BY Evan Folds ● Devour contributor and owner of Progressive Gardens

Socrates said, “The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.” This idea is tough on the ego. As smart as we are, it is difficult to imagine that we know nothing. But there is magic in this idea: It humbles us and allows us to recognize what we might be missing if we already have our minds made up. Sometimes the most familiar things are the most foreign. This can be a result of reaching our limits of investigation, such as actually seeing the molecular structure of a water molecule, or understanding the cause of electricity or magnetism. Often, the phenomenon of foreign familiarity is due to the art of advertising. Advertising is the communication of marketing used to persuade an audience to take some sort of action, often against their own will and interests. Nowhere is the manipulation of advertising more prominent than it is with food.

Graphic by Kyle Peeler 32 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

FEATURE Food advertising is famous for flashy ads preservation techniques, and the in magazines and on television. Yet, persuaLet’s grow our own food and eat food science and technologies apsion also comes in the form of the lobbyists allow for the homogenization our values. Our food choices mat- plied enlisted by global industrial food and agriculand monopolization of agriculture ture corporations to manipulate the governter. Don’t ever forget: The way we production, and the consolidation ment into allowing artificiality and toxicity to and control of agricultural markets. eat encourages the type of food that For example, fresh-squeezed orange consume our modern food system. The result of this lobbying and deal-making is a sort of juice will spoil after a couple of days, is grown. reverse advertising. Instead of these globalbut pasteurized orange juice can food and agriculture corporations promoting keep for over a year on the shelf. The the uniqueness of their crops and brands, they are spending millions of dol- point: The average local orange grower cannot bring fresh-squeezed orlars to buy votes and purchase Congress in order to hide it from the public. ange juice to your local store shelves in a manner that is profitable or that The effectiveness of this type of food advertising, upon examination, makes meets the expectations of consumers. The deck of modern commerce is it clear that food grown with industrial methods is dangerous. We have col- stacked against the local orange grower. The mechanisms of competition lectively lost our connection to the food that fuels us. and economies of scale that drive capitalism ultimately force consolidaSo what is food? The concept is obvious: We eat it every day. We know tion and a dilution of the quality in the product. Unfortunately, in the case that food is cooked, enjoyed, seasoned, chopped, grown, processed, and of orange juice, this leaves the consumer with not much more than some on and on, but this investigation is toward the nature of food itself. reconstituted flavored sugar water and a pretty package.

Everything eats food in some form. The food web—big fish eats the Food has never been more convenient. At any one time in the modern little fish—drives the rhythm of life on every trophic level, from mi- world, you can pull off the highway and choose from dozens of food escrobes digesting organic matter into humus in the compost pile, to a tablishments with food preserved for purchase, and some ready to serve couple sharing dinner at a restaurant downtown. Food is not the same you a hot meal 24/7. Cheap food aims to seduce, but only because that for all people. The modern human diet varies considerably from veg- is all it can do. The majority of modern farming is conducted for profit and ans, who eat only plant-based food, to carnivores who consider a plate power, not people. Through the influence of the Military Industrial Comof French fries “vegetables.” plex, genetic engineering and hybridization techniques that have lowered Competitive eater Joey Chestnut can eat 68 hot dogs in 10 minutes. He nutrient density over time, and the conscious adoption and acceptance of can also eat 141 hardboiled eggs in only 8 minutes. People like Joey have synthetic techniques of cultivation, our agriculture has lost its way. The retaken the human diet to an extreme. Food can be a competition. sults of these blunders are that much of the food in the modern world is not And then there is food foreplay and the Food Network. Food can nourishing us. In fact, it makes us sick. be entertainment.

The convenience of cheap food is combined with a compromise of qualBasically, food can be different things to different people for different ity that is complicated by additives, such as sodium chloride, monosodium reasons. Without a proper definition of food, how do we hold ourselves glutamate (MSG), and the hydroloyzed proteins used to avoid listing MSG accountable to eating it properly? Even the literal definition leaves much to on the label, high fructose corn syrup, aspartame, and the long, sad list of be desired. Merriam-Webster Dictionary calls food, “Material consisting es- artificial coloring and preservatives used in processed food. These artificial sentially of protein, carbohydrate, and fat used in the body of an organism additives make cheap food look pretty and taste good, and force the savvy to sustain growth, repair vital processes, and to furnish energy.” food shopper to inspect labels and play detective. Before you think the So food produces nourishment and energy. Something can provide Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is performing the duty of watchdog nourishment and energy on some level and be unpalatable, and in some for our health, in the words of the author of a recent study on BPA plastics in cases—due to cultural differences—what one calls “disgusting” another food, “A compound is considered safe by the FDA until proven otherwise.” calls “a delicacy.” How many reading this are hungry for chicken feet, Then we need to account for the artificial materials accepted for use in tongue, huitlacoche (look it up), or, taken to an extreme, cannibalism. Does industrial agriculture that end up in and on cheap food, such as pesticides something become food merely when it is edible? and fungicides. According to 2010 USDA, data tests found 47 pesticide resFood is not what it used to be. As little as a century ago, food was local idues on non-organic apples with names like thiabendazole, imidacloprid and wholesome by default because it spoiled if it traveled too far. There and tetrahydrophthalimide. Sixteen of these pesticides are known hormone were limited technologies and no preservatives available that could keep disrupters. Six are known or probable carcinogens. Five are neurotoxins foodstuff viable long enough to make food distribution a possibility. Before and six are developmental or reproductive toxins. This is not a joke (visit the onset of the modern global industrial food system people had limited www.whatsonmyfood.org and see for yourself). options that were more clearly defined by seasonal availability, market acSo are pesticides food? How about GMOs? Genetically modified orcess and income level. Fast food wasn’t invented until the early 1920s, and ganisms (GMO) are engineered in a lab by having their DNA altered food processing didn’t start to become the norm until the 1940s. in order to express traits that allow them to withstand herbicide treatThe advances in know-how of the modern global industrial food system, ments, and even act as pesticides themselves in the case of GMO Bt and the sacrifices made in the standards of the modern human diet, have crops. The FDA calls GMOs “essentially the same,” yet the global agriconvoluted the foodscape to the point that, for the first time in human his- cultural corporations who bioengineer the crops are allowed to patent tory, we can now have a reasonable discussion about some forms of food the genes and market them for profit. not being food. In modern times we have adopted the approach of food In the end, food is what you make it. With all of the choice and confusion science and food technology. According to the Institute of Food Technolo- evident in the modern foodscape, it may be that the true nature of food is gists (IFT), “Food science is the study of the physical, biological, and chemi- inaccessible, amounting to a personal proclivity that not only contributes cal makeup of food; and the concepts underlying food processing. Food toward or against the greater fabric of our society but defines us as inditechnology is the application of food science to the selection, preservation, viduals. Rather than be resigned to the idea that food is defined by those processing, packaging, distribution, and use of safe food.” who do not have our health and interests in mind, let’s choose to view food Sounds interesting, but what it really means is that there is an enormous as something more meaningful and vital to our potential as people. Let’s amount of money and energy being invested into making food something grow our own and eat our values. Our food choices matter. Don’t ever forthat it is not. This effort to fool consumers through food is accomplished get: The way we eat encourages the type of food that is grown, and if we through cost, convenience and outright manipulation. put our minds to it, we can seriously change the world for the better one Cheap food is cheaper than real food. There is less spoilage due to bite at a time.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 33

TO

READ! Cookbooks and other reviews

Cupcakes, Pilgrims and Roses: A few new and old books that tantalize the taste buds

BY Gwenyfar Rohler ● Devour columnist, freelance writer and business owner of Old Books on Front Street The Tastemakes: Why We’re Crazy For Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue

By David Sax Public Affairs Publishing, 2014 (318 pages)

“Did we just really have a half-hour conversation about Sex in the City and cupcakes?” I questioned myself after reading this book. It is rare that I come home and discuss a book for review over dinner, especially one that opens with 17 pages about a TV show of which I never sat through an entire episode. But somehow David Sax manages to make the cupcake phenomenon and its corollary with the TV show irresistible. He seized my imagination and I monopolized dinner discussing cupcakes and a TV show. That’s compelling writing.

Many books that come out in the land of current food journalism are exposés that are intended to anger or cause revulsion.

“Tastemakers” goes a long way toward exploring what actually creates food trends, but it is not intended to blow open frightening secrets of the food world. More over, it explores the unconscious links between people and food. Where and how do we receive food messages? How exactly do we decide that we must buy chia drinks or goat’s milk caramels? What is the link between celebrity chefs and our own food thoughts?

How does it actually work? How does a food fad make it from a small farm in Vermont to the shelves at Whole Foods? Is it all just marketing? Are we only pawns in the game? Or are we driving the ship and we just don’t realize it? How do diets fit into this? Gluten-free, Paleo, Atkins, and all the other diet fads: Where do they come from and how do we find out about them to decide to act upon that information? Why Greek yogurt as opposed to fruit on the bottom? These are just a few of the questions that Sax seeks to answer.

From visits to the Dole headquarters, to interviews with the author of the “Popcorn Report,” to studying journeys around the world of food bloggers and food journalists, Sax explores the intersections, repetitions and divergences of these worlds.

It is fascinating to look at how social snobbery and elitism filter down to supermarket shelves. It’s actually a pretty complex 34 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

world of selection, repetition and imitation. But what Sax does so well is explore these fuzzy overlapping circles instead of portray it as a direct line of events.

He also talks pretty extensively with both food bloggers— who are concerned with the moment’s hot new thing, and with journalists and editors at established food media like the LA Times, Food and Wine Magazine, etc. The established media

FEATURE tend to be looking for longer trends and staying power in the world of food excitement. The comparison of how these two sides of the same coin pursue a story is really interesting to watch unfold.

Don’t think Sax is looking to put anyone up on a pedestal or knock them off. He really celebrates the people he writes about. It is impressive to him to watch a trend unfold and look at who makes it happen. The characters he introduces us to who are passionate about specific food projects, like preserving and re-introducing ancient grains or suing people in the cupcake wars. All are people I felt like I had gotten to know as

people—not caricatures by the end of the book.

But it is clear that beyond people, Sax’s real passion is to eat: Almost every other page finds him sampling something or sitting down to a meal. His love of food really comes through in his writing in a sensual manner, and he makes his point about unconscious food messages by doing the same thing: I ate two dozen cupcakes while reading this book, sought out caramels (which I rarely eat), and hunted down my long-loft waffle iron.

Once I realized what was causing this, the skill of Sax’s writing became apparent.

TASTY LEFTOVERS Books we love to indulge in again and again!

Rose Recipes From Olden Times Eleanour Sinclair Rohde Dover Publications 95 pages More than just a cookbook, “Rose Recipes of Olden Times” is a work of art. Every page has amazing decorative boarders reminiscent of illuminated manuscripts. The boarders and accompanying illustrations are the work of Helen Kapp who has chosen to evoke the images of Victorian fairy tales for this collection. It all works perfectly with Rohde’s voice to evoke images of grace, beauty and nostalgia.

The book does have the expected “crafty” section: potpourris, lotions, etc. Those are a lot of fun to try, but perhaps the food recipes are the most surprising and fun. Jellies, jams, candied rose petals, and how to preserve an entire rose! It is pretty surprising the things that can be done in a kitchen with such a delicate flower.

The directions are clear and simple, but do assume a working knowledge of the kitchen and basic tools.

Most of them can be adapted easily for “little helpers” to assist with under supervision Personally, I recommend the Rose Hip Tart as a fun (but time-consuming) recipe for an adult to try. This is great book for the foodie who has everything or a friend with a magnificent rose garden.

The Plimoth Colony Cook Book Plymouth Antiquarian Society Dover Publications 88 pages Though cooking in the new world is discussed, I think the more interesting part of the book covers food preparation during the Mayflower crossing.

There is just as much commentary in this book as actual recipes.

Collected and written down in the early part of the 21st century, the recipes are in modern English, though with an authentic flair.

If anything, they sound like something that has been passed down from mother to daughter for a couple generations, then catalogued by the latest generation who seems to have missed her calling in life to be a school teacher or librarian.

“Plimoth Colony Cook Book” seeks to not only preserve food lore but also to show daily life in an early colonial kitchen. Personally, I find antiquarian cooking fascinating, and this is an intriguing portrait of one of the most famous and mythologized times in our country’s history.

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 35

Select Indulgences Culinary calendar of events

~events & happenings~ THEATRE NOW Sunday brunches: 4/5: An Easter treat with vivacious singer/songwriter/actress Nina Repeta. Nina entertains with jazz and blues standards and TheatreNOW’s chef serves a delicious plated three-course meal with your choice of entree. 4/12: Sunday Jazz Brunch with Raphael Name, Brazilian guitarist. 5/10: Mother’s Day Brunch with Grenoldo Frazier. 6/14: Sunday Hawaiian Brunch with Da Howlies.• Dinner Theatre, Fri-Sat, through 5/3: “Still Bitchin’: Rude Bitches Make Me Tired 2”—Local author, Celia Rivenbark’s latest novel gets a second dinner theatre makeover. This time with some additional stories not found in the book, but with all the irreverance you’ve grown to love. Advice on etiquette from these Southern gals will keep you in stiches. Adapted

by Zach Hanner. Show starts at 7pm; doors at 6pm. • 5/8-6/14: Raney

by Clyde Edgerton. Southern comedy dinner show. • 6/18-7/24: Summers at Seabreeze by Zach Hanner. Musical revue dinner show. Dinner theatre includes a show and three-course meal, often with a choice of two or more entrées (one of which will always be a vegetarian option), $22-$38. 910.399.3NOW (3669) 19 S. 10th St., downtown Wilmington. www.theatrewilmington.com

BELLAMY TEA SERIES Bellamy Mansion presents 2015 Tea Series, starting with the April 13th event: A Celtic Spring Tea (single seating, 2pm). The series continues on Mon., 10/12, with A Parisian Afternoon Tea (single seating, 2pm), and on Mon., 12/7, with A Proper English Tea (double seating, 11am and 2pm). To make reservations, call 910-251-3700, ext. 303. Cost is $37.45, includes tax, for each seat in elegant formal parlors of the musician. Seatings are limited. 503 Market St. www.bellamymansion.org

WILMINGTON WINE & FOOD FEST VIP Derby Cocktail Party: 5/1, 7-10pm. Cocktail attire (on lawn; wear wedges or flats). Eastern NC BBQ pork, mixology face-off for best cocktails of evening. Local musicians, high-end wines, special batch of Ironclad Brewery beer, and signature drinks. $35/single or $60/couple includes BBQ, samples of each of the three mix-off cocktails and two drink tickets per person. • Cork and Fork Grand Tasting, 5/2, 2-5pm. $45/ea. Showcasing talents of our best locally owned restaurants amongst the beautiful grounds and rooms of the Bellamy Mansion.

Tasty bites paired with over a 150 wines from around the world served to you by winemakers, importers and industry representatives. Vote for best dishes and wines, to be awarded to the winners. Live music!

(Early entry with three-day VIP pass!) • Bubbles Brews and Street Eats, 5/3, 1-4pm, $10/ea, includes five sampling tickets. Several Wilmington 36 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

CAPE FEAR BBQ FESTIVAL 6/6-7: Old River Farms in Burgaw, North Carolina, featuring: Competetive BBQ cookoff, arts and crafts, live music

by The Imitations on Saturday and Most Wanted on Sunday, games and activities, antique truck and tractor show, flowers and plants for sale, and more.

Admission: $5 per car, truck or buggy load. No coolers or pets allowed. BBQ plates $7, includes baked beans, slaw, roll; BBQ sandwiches, $4, with or without slaw; BBQ by the pound, $7. 8711 Old River Road. and North Carolina breweries pouring up beer samples along side wineries sharing their bubbly offerings. Local fare from area food trucks; creative cocktails at mimosa bar. Live music! Additional beer and wine sampling tickets will be available on site for $1/ea. Food will be on sale by the individual trucks. wilmingtonwineandfood.com.

CAROLINA STRAWBERRY FEST The 2015 festival will be held on Fri., 5/8, 7-10pm, and Sat., 5/9, 11am10pm. Live entertainment, food vendors, kids’ attractions, and more.

Historic downtown Wallace. www.carolinastrawberryfestival.com

GREEK FESTIVAL 23rd Greek Festival, 5/15-17, St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church, 608 S. College Road. Music, food, dancing, arts and crafts, marketplace, cooking demonstrations, church tours, and more! Admission price and sales of goods benefit the church. www.stnicholasgreekfest.com

NC BLUEBERRY FESTIVAL Nestled in the heart of Pender County, Burgaw is a small town that exemplifies true Southern charm. Premiere event in Southeastern at-

NC AZALEA FESTIVAL 4/8-12: North Carolina Azalea Festival is the official kickoff to spring along the coastal South and celebrates with over four days of live music, art shows, celebrity guests, boxing matches, garden parties, 5k and 10k, a circus, home tours, fireworks displays, arts-and-crafts booths, food vendors, and more! The street fair, parade and most events are free. Concerts will feature national country recording artist Alan Jackson on Thursday and

tracts more than 30,000 people who have come to enjoy some of the area’s finest entertainment, artisans nestled around the courthouse square, antique cars lining the streets, live music, BBQ cookoff, blueberry recipe contest, children’s activities, wine garden and beer tent, food vendors, 5k walk/run, and more. A nonprofit civic organization sponsored in part by the Town of Burgaw, the festival takes place 6/20. www.ncblueberryfestival.com

~classes, tastings & things~ CAPE FEAR WINE & FOOD CLUB The Seasoned Gourmet has been teaching cooking classes for over 15 years. They offer unique events for members and their guests, including cooking classes, wine-pairing classes, premium wine dinners, and free members-only events throughout the year. Members enjoy exclusive discounts from our host, The Seasoned Gourmet.

Enjoy a 5 percent daily discount on all merchandise in their store, plus a 10 percent daily discount during classes that you attend. Also a special members-only discount wine during events: 15 percent off six or more bottles and 20 percent off 12 or more bottles. To reserve a seat in class or join, call 910-256-9488 or stop by The Seasoned Gourmet, 1930 Eastwood Rd. www.theseasonedgourmet.com

hip-hop artist Nelly on Friday at the Cape

WHOLE FOODS

Fear Community College’s festival site at

Kids’ Club every Thursday, 10am-10:30am, in the café. Free events abound, fun activities and snacks. • 4/2: Twitter Chat: Growing Your own Food, 6-7pm • 4/4: How To Series, 11am-noon. • 4/9: Twitter Chat: Springtime Favorites, 6-7pm. • 4/11: How To Series, 11am-noon • 4/16: Twitter Chat: Celebrate the Earth, 6-7pm • 4/18 How To Series, 11am-noon • 4/23: Twitter Chat: The Perfect Picnic, 6-7pm. • 4/30: Twitter Chat: Outdoor Entertaining, 6-7pm. 3804 Oleander Dr.

411 North Front Street. For the full festival lineup, including the queen’s coronation, head to www.ncazaleafestival.org.

FOOD PHOTOS

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Holland Dotts hollanddotts.com

910.685.1155 Food by Rx / Ogden Tap Room SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 37

ILM VEGAN POTLUCKS Wilmington Vegan Supper Club Potlucks take place every first Thursday of every month at 6:30pm at the SEACC Community Center, 317 Castle Street, Wilmington. Simply bring a vegan dish to share and come swap recipes and socialize. The Wilmington Vegan Lending Library will be there for you to grab a book as well.

Please bring a list of ingredients along with your dish (or even better, the recipe!)

Remember: dishes absolutely must be completely vegan, with no meat, no fish, no dairy, no eggs, no chicken stock, no honey, and so on. If you have any questions, please ask us. And remember to bring a plate, utensils and a drink. Visit http://wilmingtonvegan.com for more info.

KIDS COOKING CLASSES For boys and girls, ages 8-10. Does your child love to cook? Wrightsville Beach Parks and Recreation has stirred up something just for them, a fun hands-on youth cooking class! This program aims to teach kids creative and simple recipes that will encourage healthy living and good nutritional choices. It can help build self-esteem, team building, and even motivate them to cook for you! Admission: $76 WB residents, $93 non-residents. 1 Bob Sawyer Drive

CAPE FEAR WINE AND BEER Beer Church: Purchase select beer and keep your glass for free. 1st Mass starts, 1pm; 2nd Mass, 8pm, Sunday, free. • Beer Flights, Massage and Monday Night NitroMassage Monday: 5-8pm, $10 for 10 minutes with our licensed therapist, Josh Lentz. Beer Flights: nine 5 oz samples for $18. • Monday Night Nitro: $1 off nitrogen pours. Free. • BYOT (Bring Your Own Trivia): The next wave of pub trivia. Prizes include gift certificates to Chop’s Deli, Memory Lane Comics, and Browncoat Theatre & Pub, as well as beer from us. $10 pitchers: Bartender’s choice.

All day. Free wine tasting: from 5-7 PM, with two whites and two reds.

Free • Beer Infusement Thurs.: Come see what ingredients Randall the Enamel Animal is enhancing upon delicious beer. Free. 139 N. Front St.

MARKETING FOR MONEY Mon, 4/14, 12-1pm, NHC Cooperative Extension and Arboretum, Building N. Offering a series of free classes to help enhance and strengthen your farming practices. Sign up today for any of the classes by calling 910-253-2610. 6206 Oleander Drive. http://arboretum.nhcgov.com.

DUPLIN WINERY Our Main Squeeze, 5/2, 10am-7pm: Festival that showcases the county’s native grapes, Duplin wines, music, NC vendors, and more! Full day of beach music, food, beer, and wine. A portion of the proceeds from this event will be donated to the two local Fisher Houses. Members: $10/person. Advance: $15/person. Gate: $20/person • Heritage Pick Up Party, 5/8, 5-8pm: Duplin Winery invites our Heritage Club members to pick up their quarterly wine packages during this Friday evening happy hour. Each themed party will feature live entertainment and offer specials for club members. The Bistro staff will serve up some spectacular finger food and there will be fellowship for all. Admission is free for club members (2) and their guests may attend for an additional $20 per person. Reservations are required. • Ann’s Art Class, 5/9, 10am2pm: Resident artist Ann Farrior hosts an interactive art class. Ann will provide guidance and instruction, and you provide your personal touch. This event includes all the materials needed to create your craft, lunch in our bistro and a glass of wine. No experience needed. $40 per person and seating is limited. • Golden Oldies Show, 5/9 and 6/13, 3:30-9pm: America’s favorite music of the ‘50s and ‘60s—country, doowop, bluegrass, R&B, and a touch of funny completes a dinner-theater adventure at Duplin. A comprehensive tour and tasting is offered prior to our show. A 3-course meal is served complete and the show follows.

Sells out fast so be sure to get your tickets in a hurry! $45/person. 505 N. Sycamore St, Rose Hill, NC. www.duplinwinery.com.

PALATE Mon.: 15 percent off mixed six packs • Turntable Tues.: Bring your favorite vinyl, enjoy specials • Wed: Free tasting of wine from around the globe, hosted by a winery representative or vendor to teach you about the selections. All wines offered at a discount as well as an additional 10 percent off six packs and 15 percent off cases. • Sun: $6 mimosas.

1007 N. 4th St. www.palatenc.com.

FERMENTAL Join us in the cozy confines of North Wilmington as we help kick off your weekend with our Friday wine tasting. Every week Fermental serves up a sampling of fine wines and craft beers to tempt taste 38 DEVOUR | SPRING/SUMMER 2015

buds and tantalize tendencies. Wine available by the glass; beer by the bottle. Informal, fun and festive! Take home your favorite or enjoy in-house. Free. 7250 Market St.

FORTUNATE GLASS Free wine tasting, Tues. 6-8pm. • Sparkling wine specials & discounted select bottles, Wed. & Thurs. • Monthly food and wine pairing events.

29 S. Front St. www.fortunateglasswinebar.com

BOOKS, BEER, JAZZ Enjoy browsing our extensive book catalog and library while listening to live ambient jazz piano. Start out your weekend with a beer or glass of wine, while James Jarvis performs his jazz compositions for your listening pleasure. Live piano from 3-6pm, Fridays. Old Books on Front Street, 249. N. Front St.

THE FRONT ROOM Ongoing bimonthly wine tasting, taking place on the first and third Thurs. of each month. A Tasting Room will be pouring a new selection of high-quality small-production wines, and chef Tom Mills will prepare tasty nibbles to pare for your enjoyment. Wines can be ordered that night and we will schedule convenient delivery right to your door. We are looking forward to tasting with you! The Front Room @ Little Pond Caterers, 2016 Princess Place

~tours~ TASTE CAROLINA FOOD TOURS Sample an eclectic assortment of downtown restaurants, enjoy food and drink, and meet some of the city’s best chefs. Public parking available. Saturday tours include a 2:30pm Downtown Afternoon Tasting Tour ($50/person) and a 3pm Downtown Dinner & Drinks Tour ($65/ person). A 10am Farmers’ Market Tour ($75/person), and Cooking Class is also available. www.tastecarolina.net

farmers-market • Carolina Beach Farmer’s Market every Sat., MaySept, 8am-1pm, around the lake in Carolina Beach. Free parking; vendors align the lake, from artists and crafters and musicians. www. carolinabeachfarmersmarket.com. • Wrightsville Beach Farmers’ Market, 21 Causeway Dr. Fresh NC-grown produce, seafood and other locally produced consumables. A variety of unique craft vendors have also been added to the market this year. Mon., 8am-1pm, first Mon. in May-Labor Day. • Town of Leland Farmers’ Market at Leland Town Hall, alternating Sundays, 11am-3pm, May-Aug. This market is focused on local food and agricultural products. • Oak Island Farmers’ Market, Mon., April-Nov., 7am-1pm. Middletown Park, Oak Island • Southport Waterfront Market, Wednesdays, May-Sept., 8am-1pm. Garrison Lawn in Southport, NC. • St. James Plantation Farmers’ Market, Thurs., MayOct., 4-7pm, park at Woodlands Park Soccer Field.

PORT CITY SWAPPERS Port City Swappers is a monthly food and beverage swap where members of a community share homemade, homegrown, or foraged foods with each other. Swaps allow direct trades to take place between attendees, e.g., a loaf of bread for a jar of pickles or a half-dozen backyard eggs. No cash is exchanged, and no goods are sold. Diversify your pantry and go home happy and inspired while meeting your neighbors! facebook.com/PortCitySwappers.

ILM VEGAN MENTOR PROGRAM The Wilmington Vegan Mentor Program ensures those who are new to veganism are provided with all the support and guidance they need.

Volunteer mentors are paired with those who are making new food choices. They meet to talk and answer questions, go to the grocery store, discuss cookbooks, and explore local resources. http://wilmingtonvegan.com.

TASTING HISTORY TOURS Tasting History Tours of Pleasure Island; guided walking tours. $25. Afternoon of delicious food and education. 910-622-6046. www.tastinghistorytours.com.

PORT CITY JAVA ROASTERY TOUR Join us at Port City Java’s Corporate Headquarters for our monthly public roastery tour, coffee cupping & home brewing class! Learn how coffee is grown, harvested, processed and roasted through a tour of our facilities and see a formal coffee cupping to demonstrate the “taste of place” that makes each coffee so unique. See us demonstrate a few different brewing methods you can use to achieve that perfect PCJ cup at home. Tour groups are limited to six people. Tickets are available for $15/person and are available to purchase online. portcityjava.com.

Wilmington’s family-owned and operated French Crêperie! * Authentic sweet and savory crêpes made from scratch * * Vegan, dairy and gluten-free available on demand * * Serving breakfast and lunch daily *

~clubs & organizations~ FEAST DOWN EAST BUYING CLUB Enjoy the quality, value and convenience of the Feast Down East Buying Club. It costs nothing to join, and the benefits are immeasurable.

Support your local farm families and community. Choose a pick-up spot, check out at the online cashier, and you are done! www.FeastDownEast.org.

FARMERS' MARKETS Fruits, vegetables, plants, herbs, flowers, eggs, cheese, meats, seafood, honey and more! Poplar Grove, Apr-Nov, Wed, 8am-1pm. 910686-9518. www.poplargrove.com • Riverfront Farmers’ Market open on Water St., downtown, every Sat., through Dec., 8am-1pm. Food, arts & craft vendors and live music. www.wilmingtondowntown.com/

Hours: Tuesday-Friday: 7am-3pm Saturday: 8am-3pm Sunday: 8am-2pm

3810 Oleander Dr. wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 395 0077

SPRING/SUMMER 2015 | DEVOUR 39

SOUTHERN SOUL FOOD AT I T S F I N E S T

featured on www.thrillist.com

as one of the country's 21 best soulfood kitchens!

Everyday favorites on our buffet include: • BBQ Pork • Pig Feet • Fried Chicken • Baked Chicken • Chicken & Pastry • Catfish • Whiting • Clam Strips • Fat Back • Crinkle Fries • Chitlins • Rutabagas • Green Beans • Mac-N-Cheese • Sweet Potato Soufflé • Cabbage • Boiled Potatoes • Corn • Field Peas • Turnips • Collards • Baked Beans • Green Peas • Lima Beans • Rice • Chicken Salad • Mashed Potatoes & Gravy • Coleslaw • Potato Salad • Pan-Fried Okra • Rolls • Hushpuppies • Cheese Biscuits • Apple, Blueberry & Peach Cobbler • Cherry Cheesecake • Banana Pudding • Ice Cream

WE ALSO DO CATERING!

5559 Oleander drive • 910.798.2913

Wednesday-Saturday 11am-9pm • Sunday 11am- 8pm • Closed - Monday and Tuesday