DRIFT Epicure 2024

A JOURNAL FOR THE DISCERNING

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verb

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2. to move or float smoothly and effortlessly

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On the cover

A delicious shot of The Rising Sun’s tempting culinary offering, captured by photographer Guy Harrop, as featured from page 26. therisingsuntruro.co.uk

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Jamie Crocker

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ISSN 2632-9891

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Foreword

From sparkling waters rich in seafood to green expanses of fertile land where fauna graze and flora flourish, the South West is home to a natural larder brimming with the promise of fine flavour. For those of us lucky enough to live in this rich culinary landscape, we know only too well how far a little knowledge and an appreciation for local produce can go, if only you know where to look. In this edition of DRIFT Epicure, Jude Kereama takes us back to the art of cooking with fire (14), letting the flames guide him on a journey of discovery, while The Rising Sun (26) reminds us just how warm a welcome can be in an award-winning gastropub where atmosphere and food combine for an unforgettable experience. For those looking to step away from the mundane flavour of everyday, The Penventon Park Hotel (46) invites you to

sample a new world entirely. If you’re looking to connect mind and body, St Michaels Resort’s new dining experience (54) is sure to leave you feeling nourished, and recipes courtesy of Mitch Tonks at The Rockfish (67) just go to show that with a little guidance, great-tasting food that makes the most of local produce can be achieved from your very own kitchen. Hooked on the Rocks’ ocean view never fails to impress (74), not to mention the exquisite seafood offering that hails from the kitchens, some of which plucked from the bay below the restaurant itself. For stunning centrepiece cakes that taste just as good as they look, Ladyvale Bakery (80) offers us the first slice, while Copperfish Distillery (86) allows us a sneak peak at their latest release. Once more DRIFT Epicure’s culinary inspiration abounds as we sample the flavours of the South West.

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Rosie Cattrell

Hannah Tapping

Jamie Crocker

At a glance

8 A CULINARY ODYSSEY

The timeless elegance of The Nare

14 CREATING FEAST FROM FIRE

Cooking by flame with Jude Kereama

20 RAISING THE BAR

Combining history with refined flavour

26 BEFORE, AFTER AND IN BETWEEN

A warm welcome from The Rising Sun

32 A CUT ABOVE

Knives for cooks, chefs and adventurers

34 AT THE HEART OF THINGS

Celebrating Cornwall’s finest produce

40 A TASTE OF THE BAY

An elegant take on ocean-front dining

46 A WHOLE NEW WORLD

At the Penventon Park Hotel

52 SWEET TREAT

A recipe from Restormel Kitchen

54 NOURISHMENT FOR THE SOUL

St Michaels’ new dining experience

60 ROCK STARS

The wonderful world of Cornish Rock Gin

67 FROM SEA TO PLATE

Recipes from Mitch Tonks at The Rockfish

74 A TASTE OF THE TIDE

Hooked on the Rocks’ fresh Cornish flavours

80 CELEBRATING SWEETNESS

Indulge with Ladyvale Bakery

86

MAKING THE CUT

A fresh release from Copperfish Distillery

92 CAUGHT AND CANNED IN CORNWALL

A journey back to Cornish roots

96 THAT’S THE SPIRIT

An award-winning range make to sip

98 EVENTIDE

A final word from Ruth Eggins

A culinary ODYSSEY

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Experience exquisite dining at this elegant country house by the sea where traditional elegance meets contemporary flair.

The Nare’s reputation for fine dining has been established over many years, with both of its sea-view restaurants receiving recognition for culinary excellence. Cornwall itself has become a destination for some of the finest chefs and restaurants in the country, owing much to the excellent local produce on offer from the sea and land.

Step into The Dining Room at The Nare and prepare yourself to be transported to a world of refined elegance and culinary delights. With spectacular sea views on three sides, this opulent dining space sets the stage for an unforgettable gastronomic journey. The table d’hôte menu, which changes every evening, is a testament to the hotel’s commitment to showcasing

the best of Cornwall’s culinary bounty. The Dining Room experience is a classic silver service affair, where diners are treated to a five-course extravaganza of epicurean delights. Start your meal with a selection of hors d’oeuvres from the fabulous trolley, expertly presented by the attentive staff. Then, indulge in guéridonserved flambés, prepared tableside with flair and finesse. Save room for the homemade puddings, which are sure to satisfy even the most discerning sweet tooth.

As a country house hotel by the sea, the heart of The Nare’s dining experience is a dedication to showcasing the finest local produce, with an emphasis on seafood and Cornish specialties. Portloe lobster takes pride of place on the menu every night,

ABOVE

Dishes inspired by the ocean

alongside an abundance of other seafood treasures sourced from the pristine waters of Gerrans Bay. For meat lovers, the Cornish beef sourced from local farms is among the best on offer, ensuring a truly indulgent dining experience, and The Nare’s renowned Sunday lunch held in The Dining Room, is an experience not to be missed.

And let’s not forget about dessert! The Nare is renowned for its selection of West Country cheeses, expertly curated to showcase the rich diversity of flavours and textures found in this corner of England. And no dessert is complete without a generous dollop of Cornish clotted cream, the crowning glory of any sweet treat. The Nare has an extensive wine cellar with classic and interesting wines from around the world, selected and laid down with the experience and insight of Proprietor, Toby Ashworth. The wine list also includes several of the best wines from local vineyards, who owe much of their success to the subtropical climate enjoyed on the south Cornish coast.

enjoying a leisurely lunch or a candlelit dinner, The Quarterdeck provides the perfect backdrop for good food, good company, and unforgettable moments. During the day, the atmosphere is light and calming, with large windows bathing the space in natural light and offering sweeping views over Gerrans Bay. Those sea views are even more spectacular from the terrace which affords a delightfully sheltered sun trap in the summer. In the evening, the ambiance becomes more intimate, reminiscent of The Dining Room as diners gather to savour fine cuisine by candlelight.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to The Quarterdeck, where classic yachting decor, teak panelling and large windows meets stunning sea views. Whether you’re

Afternoon Tea is a long-standing tradition at The Nare, and residents are invited to partake in this indulgent ritual each day. Served in the elegant Sitting Room and Drawing Room from four o’clock onwards, afternoon tea at The Nare is a feast for the senses. Indulge in warm scones, served with a choice of local jams and lashings of Cornish clotted cream. Sample a daily selection of homemade cakes and pastries, expertly crafted by the hotel’s talented pastry chefs. And, of course, no afternoon tea would be complete without a wide range of teas to choose from, ensuring that every cup is a perfect match for your palate. In the summer months, afternoon

tea spills out onto the cocktail bar terrace, allowing guests to soak up the sunshine and enjoy views of the hotel’s lush gardens and the sparkling sea beyond. And in the winter, cosy up by the log fires and enjoy the sea view from the comfort of your armchair as you indulge in this quintessentially British tradition.

As a family-friendly hotel, children are never left out of the dining experience. For the very young, The Nare’s chefs prepare a delicious early supper, which is always eagerly anticipated after a day building sandcastle on the beach. Early dinner is served in The Dining Room, and for those aspiring gourmands who wish to dine in style, older children are welcome to enjoy the full a la carte menu in The Dining Room. The dress is code is formal,

as a nod to this elegant experience both in terms of atmosphere and dishes. Residents and visitors alike are welcomed at The Nare, where dining is not just a meal; it’s a journey of culinary discovery that celebrates the rich bounty of Cornwall’s land and sea. Whether you’re savouring the five-course extravagance of The Dining Room, enjoying the relaxed elegance of The Quarterdeck, or indulging in the timeless tradition of afternoon tea, every meal is a celebration of the finest local ingredients and expert craftsmanship. So, why settle for anything less? Experience the magic of dining at The Nare for yourself, and embark on a foodie journey that will leave you refreshed, revitalised, and longing to return.

narehotel.co.uk

The Quarterdeck

ABOVE

Elegant dishes and stunning views abound in equal measure

Creating feast FROM FIRE

WORDS BY JUDE KEREAMA

JAfter 14 years, Porthleven restaurant Kota Kai has undergone an extensive revamp. With a change of decor comes the arrival of an impressive new piece of equipment in the kitchen; the Josper Grill.

osper is one of the leading pieces of charcoal cooking equipment in the hospitality industry, and I feel very proud to have one in my kitchen. It is essentially a charcoal oven that reaches temperatures of up to 400°C, giving food a distinct charred and caramelised flavour. Although it is very hot inside, the outside is cool to the touch as it is so well insulated. We’ve been getting on so well with it that we’re now looking at getting another Josper product called a Basque Grill. This is a charcoal open grill with winches to bring the grill closer or further away from the hot coals we will cook on. These are very exciting times for us indeed.

flavour you get from barbequed food, adding that extra layer we’ve been after. We use it for cooking lots of different types of meats, seafood and vegetables, and it can also be used for cold smoking. The new Kota Kai menu was written around the Josper Grill – it has quickly taken over the way we think about how we cook – and we’re busy designing new dishes so that we can utilise it even more. As it is so hot, it cooks everything really fast. It certainly helps having that kind of firepower in the kitchen when we get to our busiest summer-time services.

The grills are real centre pieces in our open kitchen where diners can see the fire and flames from us cooking, as well as smelling the food coming from the grills. The Josper Grill brings that really fantastic smoky

As I am half Chinese/Malay and half Māori, cooking on fire is perfect for the Asian dishes that I am heavily influenced by. I draw on the whole of the South East Asian countries for inspiration for new dishes and have been really pleased by the feedback so far from our new menu concept. The charcoal flavours have allowed us

to cook beef with Asian green sauce; a grilled Thai chicken dish called Gail Yang; crispy pork belly called pork char siu; grilled fish with curry mussel leek sauce; grilled scallops with XO sauce; and other heavily Asian influenced dishes that really suit being cooked over coals.

This summer will see a lot of other grilled items coming on such as lobster, whole fish, squid, octopus, and a hot-grilled seafood plate... mackerel will be fantastic on it too. We’ll also be serving hot-grilled peaches and apricots with vanilla ice cream and raspberries that will surely be a hit in the summer weather.

Along with the kitchen, the bar has undergone some serious work, with a complete new installation designed around functionality. This has allowed us to hone our cocktail offering and really speed up the delivery of our drinks service. We have been working with Chris Jarrett who, along with my team, has designed some brilliant cocktails that really suit what we are doing at Kai. A great seasonal wine list and plenty of local beers and ciders have also been well thought out. In addition, we have a little bar being built down stairs just in time for the summer that will service the outside area.

It’s not been all about Kai though… Kota has also had a kitchen revamp. We have invested in induction cooking which has made our kitchen super slick and clean. It has given us more firepower than we have ever had as we look to build on what we established 18 years ago when I first opened Kota in 2006. Kota saw a change last year with the return of one of my old chefs Ross Sloan. Ross and I first started working with

each other 14 years ago and I am so pleased to have him back at the helm. Kota has always been on the finer dining side of the two restaurants and has continued to evolve to reach where we are now.

Today we offer seven-course tasting menus alongside an à la carte menu that takes a selection of those dishes from the tasting menu which are designed to be bigger and more substantial. Our produce remains local where possible and is sourced completely seasonally from the best suppliers we can find. We are continually looking at achieving as little wastage as possible, with every trim of vegetable, meat or fish put into a stock, purée, powder, fermentation or sauce of some kind. It has been really fantastic to see how Kota has developed over the years and I’m very proud of the continued respect we have for our produce. This is also reflected in the accolades we have won over the years; from a Michelin Bib Gourmand, three AA Rosettes, listings in Top 100 Square Meals, Top 100 Hardens Guide, Restaurant of the Year, Chef of the Year and many other awards that show our dedication to detail and passion for what we cook.

We are all excited for the year ahead, and especially for the end of 2024 when we get to give Kota her very own revamp, which will include a three-bedroom apartment to add to our existing three bed and breakfast rooms. After 18 years, I think it is going to be a welcome change and shows that there is always something driving us to the next level.

kotarestaurant.co.uk kotakia.co.uk

Grilled Flat-Iron Steak with Asian Herb Dressing

Barbecuing is a fantastic way to get extra flavour into a steak with the charring it gets over the coals, and the quick marinade in this recipe ramps up the flavours even more. It also works really well with chicken thighs if you decide you like it as much as I do.

My favourite accompaniment to the steak is a light, crisp salad, full of textures, herbs and colour – and my Asian take on a chimichurri-style sauce adds extra freshness and bite.

PREP TIME: 45 MINUTES PLUS TWO HOURS TO MARINADE

COOK TIME: 20 MINUTES

INGREDIENTS:

4 sirloin steaks, about 200g each

For the marinade:

3 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp mirin

1 tbsp caster sugar

3 tbsp Shaoxing cooking wine

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tsp ginger, minced

1 tbsp toasted sesame oil

METHOD

For the sauce:

100ml cold-pressed rapeseed oil

100ml toasted sesame oil

3 tbsp rice wine vinegar

½ baby shallot

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp ginger, grated

½ green Jalapeno

1 tsp fish sauce

Sea salt

1 lime, zest and juice

Start by mixing all the marinade ingredients together, then coat the steaks in the mixture. Cover them with cling film and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

To make the sauce, blend all the ingredients – apart from the parsley, coriander, basil and mint – until they are smooth. Then add all the herbs and blend until smooth again. Adding the herbs later ensures they don’t overheat, keeping them fresh.

50g flat-leaf parsley

50g coriander leaves

50g basil leaves

25g mint leaves

For the garnish:

½ bunch spring onions, chopped

30g coriander leaves, torn

30g mint leaves, torn

2 red chillies, sliced

When you are ready, barbecue or grill the steaks until they are medium rare –approximately 6 minutes on each side – and leave to rest.

To serve, slice the steak thinly and arrange or plates. Dress with the sauce and sprinkle the garnish all over.

Raising BAR the

WORDS BY HANNAH

TAPPING

The Chapel Restaurant and Bar is a refined yet contemporary dining destination housed within the historic confines of The Bodmin Jail Hotel in the heart of Cornwall.

It has had many different aliases throughout its timeline, from being the chapel for an 18th-century prison to a 1930s nightclub and casino known as the 99 Club. Now, The Chapel Restaurant and Bar is a destination for food lovers to congregate and appreciate its refined yet contemporary dishes, surrounded by the dramatic original stonework, Victorian features and an impressive light show.

Upon entering guests are taken on a journey back in time with modern comforts along the way. The atmosphere is relaxed to allow diners to focus on their palette and fully experience the culinary timeline whilst ‘breaking bread’.

Executive Head Chef Dane Watkins takes inspiration from The Chapel’s history and the origins of fine dining techniques from across the globe. Dane puts his stamp on each dish by adding a contemporary and modern twist while embracing his hugely talented kitchen brigade’s forwardthinking ideas and imparting his experience and knowledge to them. Each dish features locally grown and sourced ingredients. The menu is frequently adapted to the season to ensure low food miles and to showcase the finest Cornish produce.

In conversation with Dane, we discover the inspiration and nuances behind the chef and his food.

What inspires your dishes and what it’s like to head up the kitchen at The Chapel Restaurant and Bar?

I create dishes that come mostly from nostalgia; dishes my nan or mum used to create, but created using new techniques and the skillset I have honed from being a chef for over 20 years.

Please can you tell us a little about the ethos of the menu and why it was created?

The menu changes based on its availability or as soon as an ingredient goes out of season – last year’s cherry harvest was only available for two weeks!

We confit the belly, then pan fry it to give a delicious crispy finish. We then roast the noisette (the meat taken from a rack of lamb, but without the bones) to give a deliciously tender and moist piece of meat. This combination means that diners can experience two different textures of lamb on the same plate.

We create an experience menu which changes on a monthly basis, allowing myself and my team a chance to be creative with produce and keeping us on our toes in terms of bringing new dishes to the table.

Can you talk me through some of the key ingredients in one of your signature dishes?

Our new-season lamb dish uses wild garlic which I forage from my sister’s land, and lamb from the hillsides near Fowey.

What does sourcing locally mean to you?

We source locally wherever possible, which assures quality and provenance. Local butcher James Kittow, rears the Ruby Red cows we use here at Bodmin Jail and he also supplies us with the lamb that comes from nearby fields. We have always used Celtic Fish and Game, who recently won a Taste of the West award for their exquisite smoked salmon.

Are there any particularly special methods that are needed to create these dishes?

I am very lucky to have ‘foodie’ employers. They gave me free rein on how I kitted out the kitchen, so many of the new methods of cooking in professional kitchens are all very much in practise here.

How would you describe the restaurant offering and experience?

We have two menus to choose from; our Chapel Experience menu, which is a tasting menu showcasing the local produce of the month; or our market menu, which changes, sometimes daily, in regards to what is available from our greengrocer – some of these dishes are tweaked and then showcased on the Experience menu. Product knowledge is extremely important to me and needs to be able to be explained at the table if asked. We often have tastings for the waiting staff so they can explain the ingredients and techniques used.

Can you set the scene for diners by describing the restaurant space?

We have a 60-cover restaurant, and I love seeing it busy. The buzz from a fully-booked night is elating, but somehow never feels crowded. I put that down to the beautifully

designed high ceilings in the dining room, they truly are impressive. We cater for all diners, if you want a quiet booth to people-watch, we have many. Or take one of the centre tables and benefit from the amazing images beamed onto the ceiling from our six state-of-the-art projectors.

And your wine list, are there any particular favourites you can recommend?

We have a wonderful bottle called The Guv’Nor, a Tempranillo and Syrah blend, which was bought in reference to the governors of the Jail, but has won our palates and is one of the only wines that myself and the team never disagree on!

The Chapel Restaurant and Bar’s new tasting menu is available at £75pp, advance booking is advised.

bodminjailhotel.com

Executive Head Chef Dane Watkins works his culinary magic

Before, after BETWEEN and in

WORDS

BY ROSIE CATTRELL

SWhether you’re in for a relaxed pint and a snack at the bar or a dining experience for a special occasion, this award-winning gastropub welcomes all through the door.

ome say that a pub’s atmosphere is everything, while others might claim that it’s all in the quality of service or the depth of flavours in the food, and each in their own way would be right. But when it all comes together in that ultimate combination that can truly make an experience memorable, that’s when you end up with pubs like The Rising Sun.

Tucked away on Mitchell Hill in Cornwall’s own cathedral city of Truro, I find myself welcomed by big leather arm chairs next to a flickering log burner, quaint little wooden games on hand for wholesome evenings spent together. The bar, stocked with an impressive selection to quench any thirst, invites me to take a seat and let my eyes

trail over the range of local craft gins and award-winning premium whiskeys on show, wondering at which bespoke cocktail I’d choose from the list in front of me. It’s not long before Managing Director, Katie Hannon sits down to join me and lets me in on the ‘Secret Cellar list’, a little spotlight for some world-renowned Grand Vintages and lesser-known beauties for something really special.

“Our approach to everything is best described by one of our favourite phrases; inherent quality and verve,” replies Katie when I ask exactly what it is that makes The Rising Sun so unique. “We believe it is not one or two impressive things that make a pub great, but hundreds by a team that care about every guest’s experience.

Attention to detail is key, from the smile and warmth of the team as you walk through the door and their unpretentious knowledge in recommending and pouring the perfect drink, to the music playing in the background and everything before, after and in between.”

We wander through the pub to the relaxed and intimate Adit Bar, a space perfect for a quiet romantic dinner with its own cocktail and champagne bar, carrying on to the restaurant with its open pass, allowing us a sneak peek of the chefs busily creating. Leading out onto the courtyard garden with heaters and a log burner for those chilly Cornish evenings, Katie explains that this is in fact the venue for many of the pubs events; from intimate wine-paired dinners and Cornish shouts on summer evenings to mini festivals with seafood barbeques and acoustic beats.

with the locals before going through to the restaurant.”

Tucked away in Truro, the pub often avoids the seasonal peaks and troughs of some of the coastal locations around Cornwall, which has garnered a loyal local following with the feel of a rural pub in the city. “It has given us the great privilege of getting to know a lot of our guests on a more personal level,” Katie explains, “garnering a community spirit and the ability to support local suppliers all year round. Being located in the heart of Cornwall gives us access to the fantastic natural larder on offer, from farms to day-boat, line-caught fish.”

“We are a destination for the local community, and even though we are off the beaten track, for holidaymakers as well due to the incredible dining experience we offer here,” Katie continues. “Having this diversity in our guests gives the pub vibrancy and personality. Out-of-county guests can visit and enjoy a lively bar and atmosphere on arrival, perhaps a chat

With some prestigious awards under its belt, including Cornwall and South West Tourism Awards, Trencherman’s Awards, Taste of the West Best Dining Pub and a Great British Pub Award, not to mention inclusion in the Top 100 Gastropubs list, it’s clear that The Rising Sun’s reputation for food is indisputable, and I can’t help but wander into the kitchen to speak with the man at the helm, Head Chef Tom Hannon.

“Nature is a fluid thing,” Tom explains, “so our menu is fluid to reflect that. We as chefs are inspired by what is available at the time, and our dishes are influenced

by what is in season. We have fostered some fantastic relationships with our local suppliers, and are led by them as experts in the quality produce that thrives here in Cornwall. Nature is not a supermarket, and we’ve been able to come up with some amazing dishes by making the most of what is available to us at the time. While some restaurants will need to source particular ingredients to keep up with a fixed menu, we like to follow the seasons as they evolve, and listen to the advice of our trusted suppliers who we very much think of as an extension of our team. After all, it’s true what they say: what grows together goes together!”

Tom’s philosophy is refreshing in an age where we’ve grown accustomed to the convenience of ‘dishes on demand’, and when it comes to thinking up fresh ideas in the kitchen, no idea is a bad idea. “It really is a joint effort here,” he continues, “there’s an exchange of ideas amongst the whole team, and while it’s all guided by the senior chefs to create unforgettable dishes, we’ve found that the best results come from an open conversation between a group of people with a passion for flavour. There’s always an element of trial and error, sharing flavours, components, textures… It’s all about looking inwards and always striving to be better at what we do.”

team have been developing a bar snack menu over the last few weeks in an effort to reflect the quality of the food at The Rising Sun, but in a much more relaxed and casual format. Making use of every element possible, vegetable trimmings make for perfect veggie crisp garnishes, while slow-roasted arancini with pickled mushroom ketchup is all too tempting with a pint on an evening.

“Although the food is incredibly important, we take the same care in selecting everything else that goes into the pub,” Katie continues. “We have lovely relationships with businesses in the region that connect with us, but not necessarily as food producers – we made bespoke steak knives at the incredible Pareuisi in St Agnes and guests can pick their individual knife with their steak, while the chefs wear British-made Oliver Harvey aprons designed by Fat Punk Studios.”

That’s the thing about The Rising Sun. Somehow seamlessly combining the bonhomie and banter of a bustling local pub alongside the creative, exciting and sophisticated dining of a high-end restaurant, it’s all encapsulated within a relaxed, welcoming environment, so whatever it is you’re looking for from your visit, you’re sure to feel right at home.

Lately Tom has been working towards a no-waste ethos in the kitchen, and the

A cut ABOVE

Savernake’s stunningly sharp and dextrous handcrafted knives are designed for cooks, chefs and adventurers. Harnessing the power and precision of technology, combined with the care and finesse of a beautifully bespoke product, a Savernake knife will last a lifetime. Savernake make chef knives for Michelin-starred chefs, enthusiastic amateurs and family cooks the world over, adding joy to meal prep every day.

savernakeknives.co.uk

GF SMITH G&T - £300

Originally made in a shameless attempt to curry favour with a barman in an establishment dear to Savernake’s hearts, this is a handy little utility knife to have about the kitchen, as good for slicing lemon and limes as it for baby tomatoes, radishes and other items of that nature yielding to its meticulous geometry.

HAMPSHIRE YEW STOUT

YEOMAN - £325

For those who either like a small knife for everything, or a small knife on occasion, there’s the Stout Yeoman. The blade is small enough to tackle intricate tasks, but the handle (while being one of their smaller efforts) is still very comfortable and will sit perfectly in the palm for hours and hours.

CROSS-CUT QUAD - £595

One of Savernake’s best-selling sets, covering as it does all of the culinary bases, paired with some distinctive cross-cut Dymalux resin-infused Amercian Walnut and a bold red liner.

DENIM PAIR - £325

The DC21 is perfect for motoring through piles of everything from carrots and onions to pork belly and spatchcocked chicken. Accompanied by the NC12, you’ve got a pal on standby when things get more precise and move in to the realms of garnishes, herbs and fresh spices, all wrapped up in some lovely denim micarta and a clean white liner.

GROS OEUF VERT - £325

Savernake always believed that a set of knives should start with a pair; one large and one small. The best-selling SK18 Nakiri cosies up to a versatile NC12 Nakiri. Their handles are made from a favourite material; a bottle-green linen micarta that’s been shaped by hand to best show the contrasting layers of dyed and non-dyed material.

MONO CHESS SAVERNAKE

- £395

This knife encompasses all Savernake believes about weight, precision, balance and fun. Herbs, meat and vegetables all fall by the wayside when it arrives on the scene, and has long been our all-rounder of choice. The Savernake Knife has plenty of room for knuckle guidance all the way down the blade, and will tackle everything from gnarly clumps of beet to the finest bits of dill.

NC12 MARBLE ARCTIC - £149

Made for herbs and veg, while serving effortlessly as a utility blade, this knife is a companion for those who prefer a smaller, lighter knife. A small version of the excellent nakiri design school, it’s lightweight and compact and therefore also perfect for dicing, garnishes and fruit.

HOUSE TIDE PAIR -

£325

Here, the best-selling SK18 Nakiri is combined with a nifty SY11 utility knife. They come in the distinctive House Tide pattern, which is a bit of a rarity given the absolute kerfuffle it is to make – but worth it when you see these fine fellows next to each other.

PINK IVORY PAIR -

£420

A rare chance to get hold of Savernake’s immaculate paring knife, the Lady Julia, alongside almost the archetypal utility knife, the Agile Yeoman. As partners to your main blade – or on their own for those who prefer smaller knives – this pair will tackle those smaller tasks, from the last bits of meat on a roast lamb to the last seed in a pomegranate, with ease.

REEF SK18 - £325

This large Nakiri encompasses all the core aspects of good knifemaking: weight, precision, balance and fun. The blade is wide enough to provide knuckle guidance the whole way through a chop and the blade has a gentle curve for those who prefer a rocking action, making it a superb all-rounder.

the heart OF THINGS At

WORDS BY JAMIE CROCKER

Seamlessly blending rural charm with contemporary chic, this family-owned, 16th-century boutique dining pub offers a taste of some of Cornwall’s finest produce, skilfully combined and cooked to perfection.

The Plume of Feathers in Mitchell exudes warmth and charm, the restaurant boasting exposed oak beams whilst the cosy pub offers an ideal spot to relax by the fire or unwind with a pint at the bar. Adjacent to the pub is a bright conservatory, overlooking the historic village. In the warmer seasons, their gardens, adorned with tropical plants, provide a delightful setting for al-fresco dining.

In conversation with Head Chef Andrew Dudley, he offers an insight into the influences that shape the dining experience at the Plume of Feathers. It is obvious that being based in Cornwall affords access to a bounty of exceptional ingredients right on the doorstep.

The menu crafted for The Plume pays homage to these local treasures, celebrating the region’s rich culinary offerings and showcasing the vibrant flavours and freshness that define Cornwall’s culinary landscape. Each dish is a tribute to the remarkable ingredients sourced from the coastal waters, fertile fields and artisan producers, ensuring a dining experience that truly captures the essence of Cornwall’s gastronomic heritage.

Andrew says that the pub is already renowned for its exceptional dining experience, and that he was determined to elevate it even further. The focus is therefore on provenance and balance, both of which are paramount when showcasing outstanding local ingredients.

As a consequence, he strives to achieve a harmonious blend of flavours from both land and sea. This ongoing commitment ensures that every dish highlights the best of Cornwall’s culinary offerings while pushing the boundaries of excellence.

He collaborates closely with suppliers who provide the finest seasonal offerings from Cornwall, ensuring an ever-evolving menu that mirrors the natural rhythms of the seasons. At the heart of his cuisine are classic, traditional dishes elevated to restaurant-quality. From hake and pancetta to venison scotch eggs, each dish bears Andrew’s distinctive touch, infused with imaginative twists that showcase his culinary flair.

realm of artisan cuisine and international exploration. To embark on his culinary career, Andrew ventured across the English Channel to Les Sorbets Culinary School on the island of Noirmoitier in the Vendée, France, where he trained with the best of the best. His experiences there, including his tenure at the Hotel de France in Mortagne-sur-Sèvre, allowed him to refine his skills before making his mark in London.

Andrew’s cooking journey goes back to his formative years in his family’s farm kitchen, where Saturdays were devoted to learning the art of wholesome home cooking from his grandmother. Growing up in Llandeilo, he discovered his passion for experimenting with food and fresh flavours under his grandmother’s guidance, whom he still considers the finest cook he has ever known.

This deep-rooted connection to food ignited his lifelong devotion to cooking, propelling him from his grandmother’s kitchen to the

His London journey commenced at Wheeler’s of St James, a prestigious establishment renowned as the ‘world’s oldest and finest fish brand’. This pivotal chapter provided Andrew with invaluable experiences and expertise, shaping his culinary prowess and setting the stage for his illustrious career in the culinary world. The Plume is lucky to have him onboard!

The primary goal at the Plume is to ensure customer relaxation and enjoyment from the moment you step through the doors, even before you indulge in their delectable cuisine. Led by general manager, Domi, the dedicated team is committed to curating the most delightful experiences for guests and casual visitors alike. Whether you’re seeking a peaceful meal or a restful stay, someone is always on hand to ensure your visit is nothing short of splendid.

Indulge in their carefully curated selection of local ales and artisanal gins sourced from the region, offering something to suit every palate. Whether you’re a connoisseur or simply looking to unwind with a refreshing beverage, they’ll have the perfect drink waiting for you.

Situated inland, The Plume offers a tranquil escape from the bustling tourist scene of summer, distinguishing itself as a serene haven for exceptional dining experiences. They take great pride in supporting many local suppliers, each contributing to the extraordinary flavours that define their menu. Worth mentioning are Brian Etherington for supplying their quality meats, Matthew Stephens for the freshest catches from the sea, Rodda’s for their indulgent clotted cream (a must-try with the Moules dish) and Sue Proudfoot in Trelawny for the divine Cornish Smuggler cheese, an essential ingredient for crafting the world’s finest cheese toastie.

At The Plume, they celebrate Cornwall’s culinary heritage by partnering with these esteemed suppliers, ensuring that every dish incorporates the essence of the region’s finest ingredients and craftsmanship. Join them to savour the taste of Cornwall, elevated by the dedication and passion of their local partners. The Plume is currently a contender for the title of Best Destination Pub in the Muddy Stiletto Awards 2024— an accolade of high esteem. However, the most significant recognition comes from

loyal diners, who consistently return to enjoy what’s on offer time and again. Their ongoing support is truly invaluable.

If you’re looking for that special break or dining experience the Plume of Feathers is for you, whether it’s for a long weekend’s stay with the family or a night’s romantic escape – you certainly won’t be disappointed. You can also bring along your four-legged companions and discover their dog-friendly accommodation. Regardless of the weather outside, rest assured you’ll be able to unwind in Egyptian cotton sheets or indulge in a relaxing soak in a free-standing bath. Located at an equal distance from the surf beaches of the north coast and the sandy coves of the south, this historic venue boasts a central location that is easily reachable from all corners of Cornwall. Step outside and explore the picturesque countryside, immerse yourself in the local culture, or embrace the saltwater lifestyle – whatever your preference, there’s an abundance of activities to suit everyone’s interests.

Browse a selection of 20 comfortable and stylish rooms equipped with modern amenities and ensuite bathrooms, each one named after its original purpose within the historic building, paying homage to its heritage. Choose from charming names like the Hen House, Stable, or Tack Room, adding a unique touch to your stay.

theplumemitchell.co.uk

A taste BAY of the

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPIN G

IThe tide has changed on the sea wall at Watergate Bay, as Zacry’s settles into its new shoreside setting, adopting an elegant take on ocean-front dining.

ntroducing Zacry’s on the sea wall; where beautiful food reflects an ethos of ‘elegant simplicity’ shaped by provenance, place and perspective and, of course, the elemental energy of its coastal setting. Three-course menus change with the seasons but will always reflect an uncompromising attention to detail, showcasing the best of Cornwall’s fields, market gardens, waters, woods, hedgerows and skies; each dish telling the story of the farmers, fishers and producers behind them.

I ask Neil, at what point in your life did you know that cooking was your passion?

Zacry’s kitchen is led by chefs Neil Haydock and Nick Giles and I was lucky enough to be able to catch Neil between service to find more about the restaurant that is the talk of the town.

From a very early age I loved my food. I was a very active child, always outside with friends and always hungry. Breakfast at home was usually followed by a jam sandwich next door and then we would head off over the fields scrumping damson, apples and field mushrooms. I would also spend time shooting with my grandfather, so game was a big part of my younger years. Picking up the pans came later at the age of 14 when my parents became the managers of a hotel in the Midlands. I stepped into the kitchen and knew I wanted to cook; first cooking for my friends after school and then in the hotel kitchens in school holidays.

Grilled

Newlyn Hake

© Kate_Whitaker

TOP Grilled King Scallop

Charred Leeks

© Kate_Whitaker

© Kate_Whitaker

© Lewis Harrison

How would you describe yourself as a chef and your approach to cooking?

As a chef you grow and change, influenced by your environment and experiences. I have had the pleasure of working in France, South Africa and the Caribbean, all of which have influenced my cooking. This experience along with amazing Cornish produce has helped form the current Zacry’s menu. I would describe our dining as elevated rather than fine. We go back to the Fifteen days of food which told a story in an amazing environment, where ingredients are treated with respect and allowed to shine through.

What is the ethos behind the food offering at Zacry’s?

The food always has a story at Zacry’s. Take our shitake and lion’s mane mushrooms that come from Mushlove which is just at the top of the hill. We use these in one of our most flavour-packed dishes, the umami-edged lion’s mane and shitake tare with Jerusalem artichoke; or the Agromontana hazelnuts from Italy that complement rich silky leeks elevating a humble vegetable to signature dish status. Cornish-grown Meyer lemons are made into marmalade to go with our take on a Cornish fairing; Coombeshead sourdough, made with rye, spelt and wheat flour is beautifully sour and chewy; while Crapaudine beetroot is cooked in

its own juices with the remaining juice turned into a cocktail. Each ingredient has a narrative of its own.

Do you have a favourite ingredient that has featured on your menu?

Robert and Gill Hocking of Buttervilla have supplied me with berries and tomatoes since the first day of Fifteen Cornwall. They have an unbelievable passion for food in its simplest terms; flavour without compromise. They take heritage varieties of tomatoes and create the very best growing environment for them using five-year old manure, hand-turned into the earth at the beginning of each season. Watered with spring water when needed so as not to dilute the flavour of the fruit and hand-picked when perfectly ripe, their tomatoes are unrivalled. I always look forward to the first delivery and taste, with Roberto teasing with pictures ahead of their arrival. This year will sadly be their final year – I was their first and will be their last customer.

I can see that from this that ingredients lie at the heart of the menus; can you tell me about how you go about choosing?

Communication and planning are key. I maintain a constant dialogue with growers, farmers, fishers and producers, built up over many years, all of whom have

Neil Haydock

a mutual respect and understanding of all the moving parts that make a restaurant work. It is these very relationships that influence our menus. Seasonality in Cornwall is about talking and listening to our partners, to understand when something will be available. More often than not this won’t have a specific date attached to it, and so relationships are key to the supply chain.

Creating Zacry’s menu was very exciting and involved the entire team from executive level and external partners to the team who deliver the menu on a daily basis. This menu has been in place through the winter and we now look forward to the spring produce and seeing the menu evolve with such items as asparagus and spring lamb. So, to answer the question, the seasons dictate our favourite ingredients and we merely add our influences.

Does Zacry’s have a signature dish?

I have never thought of having a signature dish, as my chef mind never stands still, always looking for the next ingredient, flavour and dish. Saying that, I am very proud of the charred leeks, leek cream and roasted hazelnut relish as it is such a simple dish, elevated by using all the parts of the leek in various textures.

How would you describe the Zacry’s experience for diners?

The view is the first thing that hits you when you come to Zacry’s on the seawall. The sea literally hits the windows some days. The space is energised with the kitchen placed front and centre, with our engaged team on-hand to take diners on a culinary journey, explaining the menu in detail. Every wine is available by the glass so you can pair perfectly with your food on

any level. Even the chefs will, on occasion, come out of the kitchen and deliver your dishes, proud of what they have created and happy to share kitchen secrets.

From grilled Newlyn hake with Camel Valley Brut sauce to Cornish black pork and morcilla with preserved gooseberry and crab apple relish, eating at Zacry’s is to experience hero local ingredients prepared with flair. A butcher’s block laden with the finest Cornish and European cheeses adds an extra dimension to dining on the tideline. Drinks follow suit, featuring the county’s breweries, distilleries and vineyards, with a cocktail list inspired by the location. Acknowledging the seasons, the drinks list also strives for zero waste, using normally discarded items from the kitchen to create an expansive and thoughtfully curated collection. A collaboration with Cloudy Bay will see a Cloudy Bay Oyster Bar pop-up in the afternoons, with Neil’s lunch menu also matched to Cloudy Bay wine.

The focus on provenance and sustainability continues through every element of Zacry’s space and experience, from design, art, furniture, crockery and glassware to uniforms and recruitment. Moving beyond just buying better, Zacry’s is also big on reuse and repurposing, innovating circular systems to reduce waste wherever possible.

Zacry’s on the sea wall is open for dinner every night and will additionally open for lunch from the 24th May, offering a Mediterranean-feel, relaxed, simple seafood affair. The Cloudy Bay oyster bar will be open between 2pm-5pm.

zacrys.com watergatebay.co.uk

Cornish Pork Chop

© Kate_Whitaker

A whole

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

Step out of the ordinary and into a place framed with a glamourous nostalgia from days gone by, infused with a passion for only the most indulgent of flavours.

Those who have visited the Penventon Park Hotel will know that when you step foot through the doors, you find yourself stepping into a new world entirely, far removed from the dull noise of day-to-day life. Curated to embody the sophistication of old Europe, the innovation of Cornwall and the theatre, drama and sheer grandeur of Italy, this is a place made for those looking to escape the ordinary for a little while.

Once a Georgian mansion, Penventon is part of a rich historical tapestry dating all the way back to the early 19th century, but it wasn’t until 1969, when it was bought by David and Paola Pascoe, alongside his brother George and wife Joan, that it began to take form as the

luxury hotel that we know today. “We like to provide our guests with experiences,” explains Jess Pascoe, Marketing Manager at the hotel. “Each corner they turn is a new sight to see, such as the Copper Bar, fully wrapped in rippled copper and custom made for us by Michael Johnson at Copper Works, Newlyn. The artisan bar captures us perfectly. Each aspect of the hotel carefully reflects us – the bar for example to reflect the rich mining history Redruth has, and the Dining Galleries reflect our own history.”

It was David Pascoe’s passion for art that was the inspiration for the restaurant, which would not only become a place where people could enjoy good food with their loved ones, but a place to admire art. Each wall is filled with

ABOVE

A space for atmospheric evenings

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A mixologist working his magic

various pieces, many of which he painted himself – one of his most admired being ‘Animal in Man’, which you can’t miss on the wall of the restaurant, with many more of David’s paintings on display throughout the hotel. As you wander the halls of the hotel it can be difficult to turn your gaze from the enchanting décor, dotted with gilded paintings, plush velvets, mirrors, antiques, objets d’art, a grand piano, silks and satins, all carefully placed to give the feel of somewhere that could well have been imagined.

The creativity to be found throughout Penventon also merges with the menus, all the while putting each guest at the forefront of everything the team do. “We start by sourcing the finest seasonal produce,” Jess continues, “ensuring that each ingredient is at its peak of flavour, which greatly impacts our menu as we match our dishes to the seasons. While summer might bring something zesty and refreshing, winter might inspire something hearty and comforting. For example, our chefs are looking to do a ‘campfire stew’ this winter, a nice warming dish packed with flavour.”

morning, served in a lightly creamed bisque sauce, with rich tomatoes and fresh spring onion. Jess tells me that the Pan Seared Calves’ Liver has also been a popular choice this season, seared in a red-hot pan, then rested for that perfect pink centre, and served with buttered mash, parma ham crisp, tenderstem broccoli, and silver skin onion and red wine jus for pouring.

“We also have a classic selection of dishes that have been favourites on the menu for years,” Jess adds, “These include our most ordered dish (ever): our famous Authentic Andalusian Pil Pil Prawns, flambéed in olive oil and chilli, with two pieces of warm garlic and rosemary focaccia, ideal for soaking up the sauce. This is a classic secret recipe that only a handful of people know, as it was gifted to Aaron Pascoe from the family’s favourite restaurant in Spain. After years of going there, a friendship formed between the owner and Aaron, and after ordering the same dish for every single visit, the owner took Aaron into the kitchen to show him their authentic way of making Pil Pil Prawns, a recipe that is still a secret to this day.”

One recent dish at the hotel to have found a place in the hearts of locals and visitors alike is the Cornish Seafood Linguini, centred on Cornish fish caught fresh that

For the sweet tooths among you, another beloved Penventon dish is the Tiramisu, lovingly known as ‘Mrs P’s Tiramisu’. Paola

Pascoe first brought this recipe over from Venice, Italy when she moved. The recipe is now over 60 years old, and the hotel’s most well-known and popular dessert. Listening closely to the guest’s preferences and dietary needs is another aspect that the team take into consideration, aiming to offer a diverse range of dishes that will satisfy and please a range of tastes, while keeping it new and exciting for locals and regulars. What’s more, sustainability is woven into every menu’s development, from responsible sourcing to minimising food waste.

When the sun dips behind the horizon, the lights are dimmed at Penventon Park Hotel, and evenings made for late nights and long conversations stretch out into the early hours, long after the candles have burnt out. Stocked with 140 gins, from classics and originals to bold new flavours, the Copper Bar holds everything you need for a dreamy night amongst friends, with a team that are primed and ready to shake the perfect cocktail, pull a frosty beer or infuse gins with the tastiest tonics. Stay and watch the expert mixologists work their magic, or move into the Lounge for a more relaxed and comfortable setting. “We strive to provide our guests with the perfect ‘night out’,” Jess kindly explains when I wonder what a night at Penventon might look like, “where everything they could desire from a good night is provided – exciting and theatrical drinks, mouthwatering food and iconic music, all served with a friendly smile. Every aspect of the experience is thought out, with hours of dedication,

knowledge and imagination being put into perfecting each.

“Another passion of ours, stemming from Aaron Pascoe, is wine. You’ll see a wine wall leading into the restaurant, the first piece of art that takes you to the Galleries. At the Penventon, there’s nothing we enjoy more than our food, except perhaps the wine we serve with it.” It’s this love of wine that has led to the establishment of a notable wine list, which currently stands at 170 and counting, alongside building the Tasting Rooms and Cellars which will be maturing 2000 bottles… a carefully curated selection. Once built, you can expect wine flights and wine experiences, and since there are so many wines for sale, a website dedicated to the wines is also on it’s way. Here you can really see what Penventon has to offer, alongside tasting notes, information about the producer and even some personal stories from the team and guests. “Not only that,” Jess continues, “but we believe that fine wine should be affordable, so as a result we only mark our better wines up by a fixed amount, bringing excellent wines to match our excellent food at a price where you can have a second (or even a third) bottle.” Many wines available today still require a few more years of bottle age to be at their finest, and so the Penventon team are currently buying and laying down their wines for three years’ time, with an aim to eventually offer well-aged vintages. Luckily for the guests, they actually started collecting wine for the cellars in 2017, ready for this very moment.

Penventon’s famous Copper Bar

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Restormel Kitchen, is a hidden gem in the heart of Lostwithiel. Head Chef Jordan Cook, along with his wife Kerris, have created a restaurant that serves fine dining food in a relaxed atmosphere. Using local produce and seasonal

ingredients, they truly showcase what Cornwall has to offer, in what is possibly Cornwall’s smallest restaurant. Imaginative menus, paired with an excellent choice of drinks, and coupled with Kerris’ friendly service, mean an unforgettable culinary experience awaits.

Cherry Cheesecake

SERVES 6 INGREDIENTS:

Cheesecake:

330g double cream

250g cream cheese

150g frozen morello cherries

8g leaf gelatine (softened in cold water)

120g caster sugar

METHOD

For the cheesecake:

Firstly, bring cherries to the boil with the lemon zest and juice. Blend until smooth, strain and set aside to cool.

Add 100g of the cream into a pan with softened gelatine and gently heat until all dissolved. Now add cream cheese, sugar, remaining double cream and elderflower cordial to a bowl and whisk until all combined.

Slowly pour and mix in your gelatine cream and cherry puree to the cheesecake base. Line a 6” square baking tin with cling film (or any desired tub/ tray of roughly that size). Pour in the cheesecake mixture and set for 6 hours in the fridge or overnight.

For the lemon curd:

Zest and juice 2 lemons into a pan with 100g caster sugar. Constantly stir to dissolve the sugar and bring just to the boil. Whisk 2 eggs in a clean bowl. Slowly pour half the lemon sugar syrup over the eggs whilst continuing

8 tbsp elderflower cordial (could be swapped for cherry brandy or another liqueur)

1/2 lemon (zest and juice)

Lemon Curd:

100g caster sugar

2 large eggs

2 lemons zest & juice

50g butter

to whisk (this will temper the eggs, so as not to scramble them when going back on the heat). Add the egg mix to the remaining lemon syrup and, on a low heat, constantly stir the mixture to avoid curdling. Within a few minutes it will start to thicken. Once coating the back of the spoon, take off the heat, melt in butter, sieve and store in an airtight container or jar.

To plate:

When cutting the cheesecake, run a knife under hot water so you get a nice clean cut and wipe off between slices. Put your lemon curd into a piping bag with a small nozzle to get nice little spots to decorate the plate and cheesecake.

Garnish with fresh cherries, berries and mint. Add some biscuit crumb or toasted nuts for texture and a scoop of your favourite ice cream or sorbet (we used Treleavens’ pistachio ice cream).

Enjoy.

Nourishment SOUL for the

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

A new dining experience comes to St Michaels Resort, with fresh seasonal menus that put local ingredients and exciting tastes at the fore.

St Michaels Resort has always been known for its culinary excellence. Welcoming Head Chef Darren Kerley to the team this spring, the hotel’s two dining rooms, the AA Rosette Brasserie On The Bay and its brand new Nourish bistro will be showcasing freshness, flavour and sustainability. Darren joins following a successful awardwinning, two-year stint at nearby Hotel Meudon, where the restaurant won Silver in the Cornwall Tourism Awards in 2022.

chef Alain Senderens at Luca Carton in Paris. Darren’s food philosophy centres on purity; the quality of ingredients is king, with light cooking techniques to retain flavour, focusing on elevating individual ingredients.

Born and raised in Redruth, Cornwall, before starting his career as a Junior Sous Chef at the Dorchester Hotel, ahead of working under Marco Pierre-White at Le Manoir Aux Quat Saisons and with pioneering

Darren also worked on food production in collaboration with Cornish favourite Sabzi during its formative years, and much of that experience has inspired the concept of St Michaels’ new bistro, Nourish. Its menus will deliver a comprehendible plant-inspired menu, utilising small plates and Ottolenghi style dishes that showcase individual ingredients on the plate. The intention is to foster a food lifestyle creating delicious dishes that connect with people.

Ahead of Nourish’s official opening, I ask Darren about his passion for cooking and his approach to running his kitchens. “I actually discovered my passion for cooking slightly later in life than most chefs. I had been searching for my vocation, but once I started working in the hospitality industry I was totally connected to kitchen life, and soaked up all I could every single day. I feel very lucky to have had the experience I have had, even if there have been moments of pure fright working with such distinguished Head Chefs! My approach to food is to leave behind the unnecessary, while constantly sourcing reliable and consistent produce. I like to think that I bring modern thinking to my kitchen. I place much on being calm, practical, honest and loyal, putting the guest experience before anything and ensuring that my team always feels engaged and valued.”

Having worked in London and Europe, Darren returned to Cornwall during the pandemic: “hospitality was totally dismantled and there were zero opportunities anywhere, it was a worrying time. I was thankfully given the chance to be part of the great chosen team to relaunch Hotel Meudon and have since loved being back home. Especially now that I have the new challenge of heading up the kitchen at St Michaels Resort.

I’m excited to discover more about what the ethos will be behind the new food offering at St Michaels: “Wherever I work, my ethos is always to stay honest to the produce and you’re clientele, Nourish will be a pure collaboration between healthy dishes, and both light and robust flavours – think deep-flavoured Ottolenghi-style salads as well as an exciting smaller plate selection. This will allow our diners to broaden their eating experience. Nourish dishes will have a great price point and a casual dining style in a stunning space.

“I’m excited to take forward an already highly successful venue, working towards developing the existing team, supporting them to become the best chefs they can possibly be. It’s being able to head up these kinds of development and transformational opportunities that really drive me. I’m looking to achieve an increase in consistency, an elevated guest experience and bring that high energy to the kitchen that is needed to make a top establishment…and, of course, I’m excited to cook the dishes!”

I can see that ingredients will lie at the heart of the new menus; seasonal and indigenous produce will inform simple but delicious dishes: “I’m a great believer in seasoning correctly, using various salts, sugar, citrus, acids and spices. I love to take a great

product and cook it with care: anchovies spring to mind, as does the humble egg, and of course the phenomenal seafood we have access to in Cornwall. Our suppliers will be county-based where possible. Soul Farm, which is only a few miles from us, will provide our seasonal garden produce, with various seafood suppliers delivering their rod-caught and sustainable fish and crustacean catch to our kitchen doorstep. There will also be a few of my favourite French ingredients, and some sourced from Smithfield’s in London, that will grace the dishes.”

While the Brasserie on the Bay will continue to serve a more elevated menu with a European gastronomic feel, Nourish will offer a more casual eatery with dishes inspired by the tastes of Persia and the Mediterranean; think flat breads with smashed cucumber and dill, feta, citrus ricotta and herb emulsion, or succulent lemon roast chicken with miso mayonnaise, rocket, parmesan, chilli and avocado topped

with tahini dressing. Salads will be plentiful and fresh, while small plates made for sharing will include such delights as fillets of local mackerel with anchoiade or roast aubergine, almonds, tomato and salsa verde. All dishes can be paired with wine from the carefully curated list or a glass of goodness in the form of a fresh juice.

With a menu brimming with wholesome delights crafted from locally sourced ingredients, Nourish is set to be more than just a dining experience; it’s a celebration of mindful eating with menus that really do nourish both body and soul. The dining area has been completely reimagined and now boasts a wonderfully sunny terrace with views across St Michaels’ verdant grounds to the clear waters of Falmouth Bay beyond. Welcoming both resort guests and visitors, it will offer a healthy connection to the resort’s spa environment, giving diners an exciting and memorable experience.

stmichaelsresort.com

Rock STARS

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

An evolving journey: the wonderful world of Cornish Rock Gin.

Rock Distillery is a testament to the serendipitous nature of life’s adventures. It all started with a simple stroll on Rock Beach by Angie and George alongside their loyal dog, Blue. Inspired by the beauty and tranquillity of their surroundings, a distillery was born. Their inaugural still was affectionately named Bonanza Boy, paying homage to their favourite racehorse. Since then, Rock Distillery’s journey has been one of continuous growth and expansion.

From their first creation, Classic Rock gin, a remarkably smooth London Dry gin, Rock Distillery has built a family of 11 extraordinary gins and 13 rums. Each gin radiates with its own distinctive

character, derived from a base rooted in the timeless Classic Rock gin. Sugar-free and crafted with the freshest and purest natural ingredients, sourced from both local vendors and across the globe, these gins are a testament to the distillery’s commitment to quality. Some ingredients even come from their very own Rock Gin Garden, adding a touch of local authenticity. The smoothness of their gins is further enhanced by the addition of pure Cornish spring water.

Their rums, too, are carefully crafted with an array of tastes and textures. From incredibly smooth sipping rums that capture the hearts of all who taste them, to dryer and slightly stronger blends, Rock Distillery offers a diverse collection

for every palate. For the adventurous, their unique Navy-strength rum, aptly named a True Taste of Cornwall, stands out with an ABV of 57%.

In addition to their impressive gin and rum offerings, Rock Distillery is branching out into new ventures. They have recently introduced Single Malt Whiskey, Apple Brandy, and a range of exquisite liqueurs to their portfolio. Among them, the Lemongino, made with whole lemons, is an unbelievable concoction that provides the perfect post-meal indulgence.

The Peanut Whiskey Liqueur, paired with salted peanuts, offers a delightful combination of flavours. Additionally, the team are soon to launch Whiskey Sour and Whiskey Warmer liqueurs, catering to those seeking a naturally sweetened libation with an ABV of 22%. With every new endeavour, Rock Distillery continues to evolve and captivate the senses, showcasing a passion for innovation and commitment to crafting exceptional spirits.

All of the distinctive gins at Cornish Rock are based on their original London Dry, setting a high standard for the rest of the creations. The process involves an exacting procedure – their White Espresso Coffee Rum is distilled a total of five times, ensuring that its purity and flavour are unparalleled. The Bonanza Boy still plays a huge part in the creation of the Cornish Rock Gin stable of spirits. It’s an illustrious piece of equipment and stands

as a symbol of victory, both the horse and the still embodying the essence of success. It’s no surprise, then, that the gin shares in this winning spirit.

Innovation at Cornish Rock Gin is deeply rooted in the Cornish landscape. A selection of botanicals, such as lemon verbena and Cornish saffron, are sourced from the Roseland Peninsula, while rosemary and mint are harvested from Cornish Rock Gin’s very own garden, infusing each bottle with a sense of place and a touch of local allure. Through this technical process of infusion, flavours are meticulously compounded, resulting in a harmonious fusion of botanicals that are unique and tantalising. This commitment to local authenticity also extends to the water used in the distilling process. Sourced locally, the Cornish spring water lends a softness to their products, ensuring a pure and light finish that is truly distinctive. Other exciting ingredients elevate their spirits from good to great; The Pink Rock Gin, for example, is distinguished by its use of pink Champagne from Hautvillers, the only pink gin of its kind to do so, offering a rare and exquisitely dry experience, setting it apart as a jewel in the collection.

All of the spirits lend themselves perfectly to creating delicious cocktails. The Dark Spiced Pineapple Rum mixes well with a good quality ginger beer to be enjoyed as a Cornish take on a classic Dark and Stormy. Or why not mix Cherry Kiss Rock Gin with a good splash of tonic water for

Angie and George with their beloved Blue

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Bonanza Boy

QUENCH

a classic cherry coctail? In keeping with the fruity flavours, Tropics Mango and Passionfruit Rum elevates a Porn Star Martini to new heights.

As well as being available to order online, Cornish Rock Gin’s storefronts are a reflection of their success and commitment to their community. The first shop in Tintagel, along with the Wadebridge Distillery and shop, opened in May 2023 followed by the Bude shop in June the same year. With their Padstow shop opening in February 2024, this stands as a testament to their expanding presence across north Cornwall. Though distillery tours aren’t currently available, visitors can still witness the magic of the distillery in action, observing the meticulous processes that are carried out daily. Witness the art of infusing the gin, and the precise hand-labelling and batch numbering that goes into every bottle.

The ethos at Cornish Rock Gin is possibly best encapsulated in their commitment to using only natural ingredients. A resolute dedication to avoiding artificial ingredients and syrups makes their gin and liqueurs not only unique but a cut above the rest. For example, the Caribbean rum base, coupled with the exclusive use of natural products, elevates the drink to an exceptional level of quality. There is no doubt that Cornish Rock Gin spirits stand out distinctly within the industry.

The Rock Distillery story continues to develop, with Angie and George pioneering new and inventive flavours. While Blue is sadly no longer with them, Blue Too now accompanies Angie and George on their beach strolls as they dream up new and delicious rums and gins to add to the incredible Cornish Rock Gin selection.

cornishrockgin.co.uk

Rock Gin Mojito

The classic mojito is a timeless cocktail that transports you to the sunny shores of Cuba with every sip. With its vibrant combination of fresh mint, zesty lime and gin, this invigorating drink is the epitome of tropical indulgence. Whether you’re lounging by the

SERVES 1

INGREDIENTS:

2oz Cornish Rock Gin Sublime Lime

With A Hint of Mint

1oz freshly squeezed lime juice

1oz simple syrup

METHOD

In a cocktail shaker, muddle the mint leaves gently to release their aroma and essential oils. Add the lime juice and simple syrup to the shaker. Fill the shaker with ice and pour in the gin. Shake well to combine all

pool or hosting a gathering, the classic mojito is sure to be a crowd-pleaser. Why not try Rock Distillery’s Cornish take on a Cuban classic? Grab your muddler and get ready to mix up this refreshing concoction that will leave you dreaming of summer nights.

8-10 fresh mint leaves

Soda water (to top)

Ice cubes

Lime wedges and mint sprigs (for garnish)

the ingredients. Strain the mixture into a highball glass filled with ice cubes. Top off the glass with soda water for some effervescence. Garnish with a lime wedge and a sprig of fresh mint. Stir gently before sipping.

From sea TO PLATE

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Rockfish is passionate about helping people enjoy delicious, sustainable seafood both in their restaurants and at home. The Rockfish Online Seafood Market allows customers to have the freshest seafood shipped from its unique position on Brixham Quay direct to their kitchens. Rockfish chef patron Mitch Tonks opened his first fishmongers in 1996, and

today operates a zero-waste supply chain, meaning customers can enjoy fresh fish today while being part of the solution to help protect fish stocks for the future. The Rockfish stable of restaurants are all based on, or near, the coast in Devon and Dorset with menus that read like veritable ocean feasts. Mitch Tonks shares some of his simple seafood recipes to enjoy at home.

Crab Hummus

Make your own hummus so you can flavour it to your taste. You want it nice and smooth with a good balance of lemon and tahini

SERVES 2 INGREDIENTS:

200g drained chickpeas, rinsed (the Spanish ones in jars are good, but canned are fine too)

Juice of 1 lemon

1 garlic clove, peeled

A pinch of salt

1 teaspoon tahini

4 tablespoons olive oil

METHOD

Put the chickpeas in a food processor with half of the lemon juice, the garlic clove, salt and tahini. Blitz, then add the olive oil and blitz again until smooth. Fold in the brown crabmeat.

and not too much garlic. Buy the best white crabmeat you can. Handpicked is best.

75g fresh brown crabmeat

150g fresh hand-picked white crabmeat

1 teaspoon finely chopped dill

1 tomato, cored and finely chopped

½ avocado, peeled and finely chopped

2 spring onions, green part finely sliced

Toss the white crabmeat with the dill, tomato, avocado and remaining lemon juice. To serve, spread the brown crab tahini mix in a bowl and top with the white crabmeat mix and the sliced spring onions.

Fish Cakes with Romesco Sauce

Fish cakes are a good way of using up offcuts of fish, but it is also worth buying fish just to make them.

Cheaper cuts work well, or you can use our Rockfish tinned tuna or sardines for a simple seafood supper.

MAKES 4 CAKES

INGREDIENTS:

400g skinless fish fillets, any remaining small bones removed

300g mashed potato

1 tablespoon capers, roughly chopped

A squeeze of lemon

A small handful of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

3 tablespoons plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, for coating

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 200°C Fan/220°C/Gas Mark 7. Place the fish on a roasting tray and roast for 8 minutes, then allow to cool.

When cool enough to handle, flake the fish into a bowl. Mix in the mashed potato and chopped capers together with a squeeze of lemon and the parsley. Season. Divide the mixture into 4 balls, then flatten into rounds. Chill for 30 minutes before coating.

2 eggs, beaten

2 good handfuls of fine dry breadcrumbs (panko ideally)

Vegetable oil for shallow frying Rockfish romesco sauce (available to order from therockfish.co.uk)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Have 3 shallow bowls/plates in front of you, one with the flour, one with the beaten eggs and one with the breadcrumbs. Dip each fishcake first in flour, then egg and last of all breadcrumbs, making sure that you have an even coating all round.

Shallow fry the fish cakes in a little vegetable oil over a low to medium heat for 5–6 minutes on each side or until golden. Serve hot with the romesco sauce.

Monkfish and Rosemary Skewers with Salsa Verde

Monkfish is such a meaty fish, so it works wonderfully in this simple recipe. I use rosemary sticks as skewers to add extra flavour, roast them in a hot oven (or pizza

oven) and serve with a lovely chunky salsa verde. It’s just one of those lovely, relaxed dishes made for sharing outdoors in the sunshine.

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS:

1 Rockfish whole monkfish tail

2 x rosemary branches

4 x spring onions

1 x green pepper

1 x lemon

A handful of fresh mint leaves

METHOD

To make the Salsa Verde:

Chop up the spring onions, including the green parts. Scrunch up the basil, mint and parsley in your hand and then roughly chop it up. Dice half a green pepper. Combine in a bowl. Add a glug of sweet vinegar and olive oil, a sprinkling of salt, then mix it all together.

To make the Monkfish Kebabs:

Take the monkfish off the bone so you are left with two strips, and then cut it into one inch chunks.

A handful of fresh parsley

A handful of fresh basil

Sweet vinegar

Olive oil

Sea salt

Strip the sprigs off the bottom ¾ of two rosemary branches and then thread the monkfish on to create two kebabs.

Sprinkle some of the stripped rosemary sprigs onto an oven tray, then place the monkfish skewers on top. Drizzle with olive oil and a little salt, then pop into a really hot oven (or pizza oven) until it begins to char around the edges.

While it’s resting for a couple of minutes, drizzle with a little bit more olive oil, squeeze over some lemon juice, then serve topped with the salsa verde.

A taste

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

With an ethos centred on providing fresh, local and sustainable seafood, Hooked on the Rocks is in prime position to offer a true taste of Cornwall with an ocean view to match.

Situated up on the rocks of Swanpool beach, with direct access down onto the sand, Hooked on the Rocks’ view over the bay is a hard one to beat. In warmer weather visitors to the renowned restaurant can be found basking in the sun overlooking the azure, turquoise waters, and when it rains, taking shelter inside to watch the mesmerising waves as they crest and fall, keeping a keen eye out for seals. Pairing sea views with seafood, of which the shellfish is caught in the bay itself, here is an establishment that holds a love for local food and a passion for flavour at it’s very centre.

Having been at Hooked on the Rocks for seven years, starting his career here as Junior Sous, Jack Frame has seen

multiple promotions lead him to Head Chef status in November 2021. With a love and skill for fish cookery to rival the very best, his passion is what drives the food to be as local and delicious as it is. “I fell into my first role in a kitchen and worked hard to develop myself into the chef I am today,” he explains. “As soon as I worked with fish, I knew it was what I wanted my speciality to be, and growing up in Cornwall with access to the incredible local fish markets has proven to be the perfect place to develop this specialism. Here at Hooked on the Rocks, we want to showcase local, sustainable fish and shellfish in a simple format that allows the seafood to excel, experimenting with spins on classic dishes to create original, fun and tasty food.”

Chef, Jack Frame

ABOVE

£1 from every Falmouth Bay lobster sold is donated to The National Lobster Hatchery in Padstow as part of their ‘buy one set one free scheme’

With seasonality at the fore when it comes to food, the menus at Hooked on the Rocks change on a monthly basis to ensure that only the very best produce is being utilised, on which Jack kindly elaborates: “For instance, it’s currently asparagus season, so at the moment we have an incredible dish showcasing Cornish asparagus alongside Falmouth Bay white crab meat and a St Ewe’s crispy hens’ egg. As a predominantly seafood-oriented restaurant, the fish markets play a massive part in what’s on the menu. Our suppliers will let us know what’s available at Newlyn Fish Market on a daily basis which we then use to design the ‘market fish’ section of our menu that day. We also use local fisherman like Ned Bailey for our lobster and crabs, and George and Katie at Mylor Fish Shop for our scallops. Our ethos is simple – if they don’t catch anything, it’s not on our menu. We believe in sustainability and locality, so we never stray from our trusted suppliers. We are a member of the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide too, which means we take

their sustainability ratings into account when designing menus to make sure we are only ordering in sustainable fish.”

“We have spent the last year growing our kitchen team and are so pleased with our new recruits,” adds Katie Hemmings, General Manager at Hooked on the Rocks. “Ashley Harrison and Jake Fisher, whom are Sous Chef and Junior Sous respectively, have brought even more skill, drive and fun to the kitchen. With these three leading the way, we are really excited to see what new and exciting plans we can make for the future, and you can definitely see this already in the quality and originality of the dishes that are coming out of the kitchen.”

Some of this season’s highlights included the ray-wing schnitzel with whiskey-spiked fish peppercorn sauce, the cuttlefish and chorizo ragu and the roasted market fish on the bone, with creativity shining through in every bite. The team also continue to get rave reviews on their staples, like the

watching from the window

ABOVE

Wild shell on prawns with nduja butter

Falmouth Bay scallops with garlic and herb butter and seaweed pangrattato, and the wild shell-on prawns with nduja butter. And who could forget the local Cornish oysters (from either Porthilly or Mylor Creek) offered fresh with a Falmouth gin and tonic granita or grilled with a seaweed butter.

“And it’s not just our food that we think about,” Katie continues, “our drinks list also has the same core values. From our local beers and spirits to non-alcoholic tipples made using Cornish botanicals and water. We want to support local as much as we can, and Cornwall has some exceptional offerings. You can also see this in our wine list, where we are very proud to work only with small family producers, practicing sustainable viticulture.”

With a determination to make sure that every customer has the best time, whether they’re there to have a drink at the outdoor Seahorse Bar, or a meal in the main restaurant, it all starts with the warmest welcome. Providing a first-rate level of service in a laid-back and approachable

way, it’s comes as no surprise that the team were finalists for the Best Front of House Team at the 2023 Trencherman’s awards. “We are very lucky with the front of house staff we have here,” says Katie, “they are all so friendly and hardworking – we make a great team together and with the kitchen too, and I think that really shines across to customers”

Perched along the way on the coast path from Falmouth to Maenporth, Hooked on the Rocks is a perfect spot to stop along the way, or to spend the evening watching the sun go down, on which Katie reflects with a smile: “When the sun is out and you have some fresh oysters or scallops in front of you with a cold glass of rosé, you could quite literally be anywhere in the world – it’s just beautiful and we are so lucky to have this spot.” It’s in places like this that you may well discover a whole new level of appreciation for the local Cornish produce on your plate, especially when you’re overlooking the sparkling sea from where it was caught.

CelebratingSWEETNESS

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

From show-stopping celebration cakes to delectable high teas, Ladyvale Bakery is a place in which to indulge your sweet tooth and discover just how good cake can really be.

Ladyvale Bakery emerged from a decade-long journey that began with the inception of Woods Cafe. Lara Spurrell and her team dedicated those years to honing their craft, experimenting with recipes and expanding their expertise in the art of baking. Their focus gradually shifted towards creating bespoke celebration and wedding cakes, a venture that quickly outgrew the confines of their little cafe kitchen.

With aspirations soaring higher, they embarked on a quest for a new home for their bakery, and Nansledan would prove to be the ideal setting to help realise their vision. Today, Ladyvale Bakery prides

itself on crafting cakes that marry the elegance of French patisserie with the familiarity of traditional British baking. Their creations are not just visually stunning but also tantalise the taste buds with classic flavours infused with a modern twist.

Visitors to the bakery are greeted with a delectable array of treats that reflect the team’s creativity and passion. From indulgent brownies crowned with fresh raspberry cheesecake to multi-layered lemon meringue pie cakes adorned with torched meringue, there’s something to delight every palate. For those craving savoury delights, the bakery offers tempting bagels and croque monsieur.

Lara Spurrell

Ladyvale’s high teas are a testament to their commitment to freshness and quality, and make for a perfect way to celebrate the little things in life. With everything prepared on the day, guests are treated to an exquisite spread of cheese scones, open sandwiches, and patisserie-style bakes. Sweet temptations abound, from delicate macarons to miniature pavlovas filled with luscious curd. A glass of prosecco will really make it an occasion in the sweetest setting that is Ladyvale Bakery.

Behind the magic of flavour combinations and baking prowess stands a team of talented women who revel in the joy of recipe creation and experimentation. Lara, as the visionary leader, infuses fresh ideas and innovation into their offerings, ensuring a constant stream of delightful surprises for their patrons.

Among their most cherished projects are the bespoke wedding cakes, where they collaborate closely with couples to bring their dreams to life. With an abundance of homegrown edible flowers, Ladyvale creates stunning floral arrangements that adorn their delectable creations, adding a touch of natural beauty to joyous celebrations.

Alongside show-stopping wedding cakes, also on offer are some fantastic celebration cakes adorned with hand-painted watercolours and perfect piping, each available in a range of flavours from salted caramel and toasted pecans to blueberry and white chocolate. Alternatively, you can order a themed cake for a birthday, anniversary, or other special occasion and choose from a range of designs. If you are after something simpler, order a classic or floral celebration cake decorated in Ladyvale’s signature style with handmade macarons, gold touches and homegrown edible flowers. The team will even design beautifully crafted vintage piped heart cakes!

As they reflect on their journey, the Ladyvale team takes pride in their resilience and growth, particularly during challenging times for the hospitality industry.

While they continue to evolve and expand, they are savouring the present success and laying the groundwork for exciting future endeavours.

CUISINE

ABOVE

Stunning centrepieces for the big day

Making CUT the

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

When it comes to award-winning products, Copperfish Distillery is developing a track record in gold-standard spirits.

No conversation about the South West’s foodie landscape would be complete without a nod to the incredible beverage offering here in the Duchy, and one brand that has well and truly made its mark on the surface of Cornwall’s distillation scene is Copperfish Distillery. Six years on from its initial inception back in 2018, the Cornish brand is now home to a range of award-winning spirits, from gins and rums to moonshine and the most recent addition, Kerbon®, each developed by Bill Martin, Jemma Hackett, Rob Johnston and Andy Walton.

my attention, and a conversation with one of the brand’s co-founders, Andy Walton, allowed me a glimpse into the wonderful world of the team’s latest release: Kerbon®.

While I had the privilege to delve into the Copperfish collection in the last edition of DRIFT Epicure, there has been one product in particular that has since caught

“The idea for Kerbon® began way back when we started in 2018,” Andy explains when I wondered how it all came about for the innovative spirit. “We just loved the idea of creating a Bourbon-style spirit. Our first product was an original Moonshine (known in America as White Dog or White Whiskey). This was a clear spirit made from corn, barley and wheat, and therefore an unaged clear spirit that makes up the base of a Bourbon. We were thrilled when this spirit won a Taste Of The West Gold in 2022, so we knew we were doing the right thing in ageing the spirit

TOP RIGHT

Best sipped neat

MIDDLE

The inner workings of Copperfish Distillery

ABOVE

A striking design to join the rest of the Copperfish collection

in oak barrels to create Kerbon®.” Made right here in Cornwall, it seemed only natural to the team to combine Bourbon with Kernow to create the unique name, and once trademarked and sealed with a label fit to join the other stunning designs in the Copperfish collection, Kerbon® was entered into the Taste Of The West 2024 awards. It comes as no surprise that the team were delighted to receive yet another gold.

The brand’s success leads me ponder the process that goes into a winning spirit, and Andy is only too happy to share the team’s discoveries with me: “We start with a selection of corn, barley and wheat, which is mashed in a large vessel to start extracting the carbohydrate sugars from the cereals. To this we add yeast which really brings the magic, turning the sugars into an alcohol (very similar to a beer) which can take around two to three weeks to complete. This alcohol is then run through the still where it extracts the alcohol from the mass and distils it into a fine clear spirit. Our Distiller, Rob, is very particular with his cut of the spirit run at this stage, so it’s no surprise that we’ve won numerous awards for our drinks. This spirit is then filled into craft oak barrels – we source ours from specialist cask agents who provide specialist pre-used casks including Bourbon, whiskey and brandy. Then, we wait…

“It takes many months for the colour and flavour to develop in the cask, but the wait is always worth it. We like to make

sure that the drink is ready for cutting and bottling by carefully tasting the spirit. After all, if it’s not ready, it’s not ready. Our ethos is ‘proper spirits, made proper’, and we stick to it. Finally, we cut the spirit with spring water to 43% ABV, before filtering, bottling and adorning with our eye-catching labels. This is a genuine Cornish craft spirit, made from scratch by our team, so we know exactly what’s in the bottle.”

It’s clear to me that, as with the rest of their collection so far, this is a product that the team at Copperfish are immensely proud of, and rightly so. For those who like to appreciate the spirit in its finer form, either neat or with a single ice cube, you can expect a smooth delivery with each sip, and a subtle nose of spiced wood and buttered malted bloomer toast with hints of grass and hay. The palate has a full yet smooth balance, paired with notes of sweet toffee, rich spiced fruits, toasty oak and light vanilla. If you’re looking for a little twist, Kerbon® goes nicely with a quality cola or ginger ale, and makes a great base for classic cocktails like an Old Fashioned, a Manhattan or a Kerbon® (whiskey) sour.

With another addition to the already impressive Copperfish collection now complete and on the shelves, you may find yourself wandering the small coastal town of Looe in search of the brand’s craft distillery and retail outlet on Buller Quay, which I can highly recommend a visit to.

Crafted right here in Cornwall

Caught and canned CORNWALL in

WORDS

BY ROSIE CATTRELL

Photo Credit: London Oyster Championships

–David Charbit

Through his award-winning brand, the Cornish Canning Co., Chris ‘Ranger’ reacquaints us with a forgotten history that brings us back to Cornish roots.

It goes without saying that Cornwall has a rich history in the fishing industry dating back millennia, but when it comes to the preserving of fish there is a charming history that you may not be so familiar with. In 2022 the Cornish Canning Co. became the first cannery in Cornwall since the Mevagissey Fish Factory in the 1940s, where salted fish, including sardines (or pilchards as they are often referred to here in Cornwall), were packed into crates to be preserved.

While tins of Cornish pilchards from The Pilchard Works are available all over the country in huge quantities (which are tinned in Brittany in one of the oldest fish canneries in the world), for more than 15 years, Chris ‘Ranger’ has been dreaming of setting up a much smaller cannery in Mylor, near Falmouth, where he has been gathering the wild Cornish Native Oysters aboard his traditional Truro River Oyster Boat, better known as the Falmouth Working Boat, and then processing them at his purification centre right on the quay alongside the Fal Fishery. Once purified for a minimum of 42 hours, the oysters could be branded as the equally unique ‘Fal Oyster’ with its Protected Designation of Origin food name.

But for the unique sailing fishing fleet on the Fal Estuary, whose prized catch is the native oyster (Ostrea edulis), the sorts of landings that are demanded today are not as easy to gather, as Ranger explains: “I am truly passionate about our unique sailing fleet and the Fal Fishery that provides us with its equally unique native oyster, but despite the unique selling points, I am disappointed that most of our catch gets exploited, exported, and rebranded. As other oyster fisheries have collapsed, they have relied on our stock to meet their demand, and in our industry there is a lot more effort and investment needed to create the brand as a whole and the infrastructure required to simplify the distribution chain, which ultimately ensures the fishery is both sustainable and viable for the long term.”

Shellfish is extremely perishable, but stored correctly oysters can last from three to seven days. “I’ve rarely exported my catch,” Ranger continues, “focusing instead on local and national pop-up oyster bars, as well as serving oysters at some quite prestigious weddings and the UK hospitality market where the oysters are only sold on the menu with their rightful name, ensuring our fishery gets the recognition it deserves, and the added value can be put back into our local economy.”

TOP LEFT Ranger sailed his boat ‘Alf Smythers’ to Douarnenez Brittany in 2018

TOP RIGHT Ranger, the Oyster Shucking Champion

MIDDLE The Cornish Canning Co. range

@cornishcanning

© Simon Neild

@cornishcanning

@Rock Oyster FestivalCaitlin Mogridge

CUISINE

Thanks to the Fal Fishery Cooperative CIC and its application to the Co-op Foundation’s Carbon Innovation Fund in 2021-22, and over 100 Crowdfunder supporters, Ranger was able to propose his idea for a new market. With a 5-rated kitchen already in his possession, this was converted into a cannery, on which he kindly elaborates: “I developed the concept of canning our shellfish in small batches, a service that is available not just to other oyster gatherers, but local food producers too, and I’m more than happy to help anyone with an idea for a canned product.”

Subsequently, Ranger gained two conditional approvals, and so began the production of very small batches of canned shellfish for testing. On 31st March 2023 he made his mark in history as Cornwall’s first cannery since the 1940s, and would eventually launch the Cornish Canning Co. inaugural product, Cornish Rock Oysters, at his now iconic oyster bar at the Rock Oyster Festival in July 2023.

Today, the canned shellfish range now includes Cornish Rope Grown Mussels, Cornish Native Oysters, and Cornish Queen Scallops, alongside a fully tested and approved new Cornish Tinned Fish range, featuring Cornish Pilchards, Cornish Mackerel, Cornish Hake, Cornish Haddock, and coming very soon, Cornish Tuna, an incredible feat for Cornwall’s first canned fish in almost 80 years! “I know the cans are not the cheapest,” Ranger admits, “but I pride myself in fishing sustainably, paying a fair price to the hardworking skippers and crews, paying the team to weigh grade the shellfish which gives it an added value. I also purify, process, cut out and cook everything by hand, not to mention all the essential data analysis which makes

sure the products are safe, and using solar energy during the manufacturing process, so it is an incredible amount of labour and I want that added value to stay in the local economy as much as possible.

I don’t want to compete against supermarket prices for canned fish, nor against other farmed oyster companies. I want to create a small-batch and sustainable artisan product; I want to preserve our catch, reduce food waste and return the empty but carbon-sequestered shell to the habitat, which provides essential substrate for the next generations of larvae. Added to the fact that the aluminium can is 100% recyclable, there is a 95% reduced delivery carbon footprint, and the ambient-temperature long shelf life means there is no energy required to store them.”

As the current Falmouth Oyster Shucking Champion 2023, the holder of the Oyster Festival Harbour Race Trophy for many years, and the winner of the prestigious Silver Oyster Race Trophy, success certainly seems to be on the cards for Ranger, on which he shares his thoughts: “The latest win is hopefully just the first for the cannery. In December I entered the two all year-round products, Cornish Rock Oysters and Cornish Mussels, to the Taste of the West 2024 Food Awards and was absolutely thrilled when both won gold!” With award-winning products like this under the roof of an award-winning company, the future certainly looks bright for Ranger and The Cornish Canning Co., and I can’t wait to taste whatever comes next from the new Cornish brand with true sustainability at its heart.

That’s the SPIRIT

Artisan producer, Rosemullion Distillery produces small-batch Cornish spirits just 300 bottles at a time. Creating its own base spirits from scratch, using a number of fermenters and handmade copper pot still, their unique gins are made using carefully-selected botanicals and harvested Cornish rainwater, while the rum range comes from molasses, fermented, distilled and aged in oak on location in Cornwall. Winning the England title at the World Drinks Awards 2024 for their iconic Dry Gin, and gaining silver in the Whisky category, this puts Rosemullion Distillery firmly on the world distilling map.

1 2

3

4. SEAFARER’S GIN 70CL £38

6. SUMMER GIN 70CL £38

8. DARK RUM 70CL £36

7. DRY GIN 70CL £38

Eventide

WORDS BY RUTH EGGINS

Hillside Farm sits snuggly against Timmy’s Hill on Bryher. Facing south, its small fields slope to meet both the east and west coasts of this tiny island. Myself, my husband Graham and our three children have lived at Hillside Farm since 2015 and we have spent the past nine years striving to create a naturefriendly yet productive business, introducing North Devon cattle, Saddleback pigs, bees and a no dig, regenerative system of fruit and vegetable production.

Farming on Scilly provides both great opportunities and challenges. Coping with extremes of weather, small scales, shipping and limited access to mechanical help means a problem-solving mindset is needed. The farms island setting does provide a captive and loyal customer base and a warmer, sunnier climate.

When the covid pandemic hit, we realised that the entirety of our income was reliant on people being able to be at the farm in person. Alongside that were hot dry summers and water shortages, making growing crops on the farm a real challenge. The farm needed a crop and a product that would be resilient to climate change and sudden decreases in visitor numbers; it needed to be something that could be shipped to anywhere in the

world. Scilly Chilli was created in 2021. Chilli plants seemed to fit so well into the farm system, growing in polytunnels meant some protection from the winds that often cut across Bryher. The installation of several large water collection tanks meant that these plants, that require very little water and lots of sunshine and heat, could thrive in Bryhers long summers. The chillies ripen and are handpicked towards the end of the growing season, leaving time for the farm’s other crops of fresh vegetables and fruit to be nurtured and picked. Once harvested, I create a variety of chilli sauces, including the gold-award-winning PeriPeri jams and powder. In typical Bryher fashion, a collaboration between Veronica Farm Fudge appeals to those that like their sweet treats with a bit of a chilli kick and our sauces are on several restaurant menus across Scilly, including Fraggle Rock Bar on Bryher.

Hillside Farm and Scilly Chilli are just two of the many innovative island producers across Scilly. Taste of Scilly is the annual food and drink festival that champions farmers and growers across all five inhabited islands, plus the eateries that serve their home-grown produce. Taste of Scilly runs from 12th to 22nd September 2024. For more information visitislesofscilly.com

& Ruth

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