COLLECTION 2009–2010
Independence T r a d iti o n I n n o v a ti o n Q u a l it y a n d fine workmanship R a r it y Va l u e A e s t h e ti c s S e rv i c e E m o ti o n H e r it a g e
Maî t re s Horl oge r s à G e n è ve de pu i s 1 83 9
P r e a m b l e 9
M e n ’ s w at c h e s
11
I n t r o d u c t i o n 1 3 T h e c o m p l i c at e d wat c h e s 1 7
The Annual Calendar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Perpetual calendars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . World Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chronographs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The Exceptional Watches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19 27 32 34 47
T h e e s s e n c e o f c l a s s i c i s m 6 9
Calatrava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Gondolo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 The Golden Ellipse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Sp o r t i n g e l e g a n c e 9 1
Nautilus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Aquanaut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 R a r e s k i l l s 1 0 9
1 0 va l u e s Independence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tradition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Innovation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Quality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . and fine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . workmanship. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rarity. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
115 116 118 120 123 123 123 124
Value . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aesthetics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Service. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emotion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heritage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
127 128 131 132 135
1 7 0 y e a r s o f c o n s ta n t i n n o vat i o n 1 3 6
The calibers
139
L a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
144
I n t r o d u c t i o n 1 4 7 T w e n t y ~ 4 ® 1 5 1 C a l at r ava 1 6 9 G o n d o l o 1 7 9 A c t i v e e l e g a n c e 1 8 7
Nautilus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Aquanaut Luce. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 T h e c o m p l i c at e d wat c h e s 2 0 1
Annual Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Travel Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
In this catalog, the watches photographed face on are enlarged 104 %, 150 % and 180 %. The case diameter is given in the caption at the end of the book (p. 209). The letter next to each reference number indicates the metal used for the watch in the photograph. J
Yellow gold
G White gold
Captions
209
Men. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Ladies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Calibers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Wat c h e s I n d e x 2 2 4
R Rose gold P Platinum A Steel
philippe stern, thierry stern President and Vice-President of Patek Philippe
Preamble
B
y acquiring a Patek Philippe, you enter the circle of those who share the values dear to
our family company and who wish to express them, discreetly, through an object worthy of such a distinction.
Some of these values spring from our founders’ vision. Polish-born aesthete Antoine Norbert de Patek founded our watchmaking company with the aim of creating the most beautiful watches in the world. Our purpose is to remain at the pinnacle of our art and perpetuate his goal. Count de Patek’s partner, Jean-Adrien Philippe, dreamed of pushing back the frontiers of watchmaking technology. Some 80 patents registered in the course of our history testify to this quest for innovation, beginning with the revolutionary stem-winding and setting system, registered in 1845. But beauty and innovation would not be of such interest without quality – quality of materials, of course, but also of workmanship – what is known in French as bienfacture. Count de Patek’s goal therefore had a dual significance : the most beautiful watches were the finest watches. It is the care devoted to the smallest detail at every stage, from the initial concept to the shaping of the parts, the assembly of the movement and the rating and decoration that has built our watches’ reputation. The skill required to be so exacting
is rooted in a tradition that embraces both a philosophy and time-honored techniques. Developing a new movement takes years ; making one of our watches takes months or even years, depending upon the model. Our financial independence allows us to spend the time needed on each task to accomplish it according to the highest principles of traditional horology. This relentless search for excellence is reflected by our yearly production, which remains modest. Some of our most complex timepieces are produced in very small series, or even as one of a kind. This exclusiveness, imposed by our pursuit of quality, adds to the intrinsic value of a watch that is timeless, and in some cases, an object of cult status. But to us, the real value of each of our watches lies in the emotion that you will feel when you take it in your hands and know that you are about to begin your own tradition of excellence.
5146/1 G
Chapter I
Men’s watc h e s
5159 G
introduction
13
T
he wristwatch, a man’s most important accessory, must reflect his values while subtly
conveying his personality.
A man may possess several watches, and dream of having one for every occasion . Whether for business or leisure, sport or eveningwear, it should have the look and the functions appropriate for each style of dress and activity . At the same time, it should testify to its owner’s high standards in terms of reliability and aesthetics . Despite an impressive total of over 100 men’s models in regular production and one of the largest collections of horological complications, the Patek Philippe watch presents just one face to the world : that of excellence . Simple or complicated, it is recognized as embodying all that is fine in watchmaking today . 170 years of ceaseless production, unrivalled knowledge of every aspect of the watchmaking art and more than 80 patents guarantee an extraordinary tradition of inno-
vation . There is also the mastery of complicated mechanisms and the ability to create models that capture so completely the spirit of their times that they become eternal, treasured by enthusiasts and collectors . These qualities make each Patek Philippe an exclusive possession that its owner is proud to preserve in order to pass on to future generations . While waiting to begin your own tradition, you will be your watch’s guardian, with ample time to enjoy the fine details of finish that make it so precious . And since nearly all the men’s models are fitted with a sapphire crystal case back, you will no doubt also spend time contemplating the intricate world of its magnificent movement .
t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s
a
s creator of the most complicated timepiece ever made (the Caliber 89 with 33 complications), together with over 80 patented
inventions and the largest collection of complicated watches in regular production, Patek Philippe is the undisputed expert in this supreme expression of the watchmaker’s art. From the ultra-thin perpetual calendars to the patented Annual Calendar ; from the classic column-wheel chronographs to the world’s thinnest grand complication split-seconds chronograph and the famous World Time watches, the company’s master watchmakers offer discerning watch-lovers a splendid array of complications combining technical sophistication with ease of use. Those grouped under the banner of “Exceptional Watches” are the collectors’ dreams. They are Patek Philippe’s most rare and complex creations, masterpieces of ingenuity and miniaturization such as the tourbillon models or the minute repeaters. Today more than ever, each is a confirmation of the technical virtuosity that has shaped the firm’s unrivalled reputation since 1839.
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5 070 5959
5 96 0
5004
PerPetual calendars
597 1
5 9 70
5146/1
5 3 96
5139
5140 5159
the annual calendar
chronograPhs
5135
5146
5147
5013
5101
3 93 9 H
5104
5102
5 078
5033
5 074
5002
5 2 07
5016
5130
5131
M e n ’ s w at c h e s
world tIme
the excePtIonal
wat c h e s
5396 G
the annual calendar s o P h I s t I c at e d s I m P l I c I t y
The Annual Calendar mechanism, patented in 1996, is a splendid illustration of one of Patek Philippe’s ruling principles : any complication, no matter how sophisticated, must be easy to use. Simple ideas sometimes take time to reach us . Especially when they call for the development of complex technology . Towards the end of the twentieth century, a new Patek Philippe patent reduced the horological gap between the simplicity of the date aperture and the extreme sophistication of the perpetual calendar . The world’s first self-winding Annual Calendar mechanism emerged from the workshops in 1996, housed in a classic round case .
5396 R
Annual Calendar Reference 5396 has two in-line apertures for the day and the month, and a 24-hour indicator. In honor of its distinctive technical and aesthetic features, Patek Philippe presents this watch in a classic round Calatrava style case, with a dial notable for its original graphic design.
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5146 J
5146/1 J
The Annual Calendar automatically displays the month, the day of the week and the correct date of months with 30 and 31 days . Correction is required only once a year, on 1 March, using either the crown or push buttons . This simplicity of use necessitates a complex mechanism . To eliminate as many levers as possible, the engineers totally redesigned the architecture of the movement, which functions primarily on the basis of wheels and pinions . As a result, while a self-winding perpetual calendar movement with a moon-phase display usually comprises around 280 parts, caliber 324 S IRM QA LU has 355 parts . Enriched with other useful functions such as the power-reserve indicator and the ultra-precise moon phase, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar has claimed its place as one of the firm’s flagship models . It is offered in a variety of interpretations, each combining elegant lines, noble materials and lavish attention to finish .
The Annual Calendar varies its appearance according to the model. However, it always respects the Patek Philippe rule whereby every complication must be practical and therefore easy to use.
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5146 P
5146/1 G
M e n ’ s w a t c h e s – T h e c o m p l i c a t e d w a t c h e s – T h e A n n u a l C a l e n d a r
22
Di a m o n d s c a n a l s o b e a m a n ’ s b e s t f r i e n d
Jeweled watches for men, once produced to special order only, now enrich Patek Philippe’s standard collections. A gentleman can rediscover the pleasure of donning a dress watch that will accompany him with elegance and sophistication. The quality, cut and setting of the precious stones must always reflect the watch’s technical perfection and characteristic discretion and enhance its masculine aura. Patek Philippe has over 150 years’ experience in creating jeweled watches and setting them individually in its own workshops, and this plays a crucial role. So too does its refusal to compromise. It accepts only the best when it comes to the four “Cs” that determine a diamond’s value – Cut (shape), Carat (weight), Clarity (purity) and Color. The firm’s gemologist works with the top suppliers on the world market to obtain stones of DEFG quality, graded either exceptionally white (“River”) or extra-white (“Top Wesselton”) and “internally flawless”, denoting the highest degree of purity. All the diamonds must be certified conflict-free. But above all, extraordinary care is devoted to the setting : this is apparent in the precision of the tiny spaces between the stones and in the perfect horizontal alignment, so that each diamond captures the light fully and reflects it with maximum brilliance on the polished surfaces of the watch case.
Refinement and technical flair. Our master jewelers chose to underline the masculine style of this Annual Calendar model, Reference 5147, with a circle of 72 flawless, brilliant-cut Top Wesselton diamonds, whose pure fire contrasts elegantly with a black dial displaying large Arabic numerals. This watch may be worn with matching cufflinks for additional impact.
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5147 G
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – t h e a n n u a l c a l e n d a r
24
gondolo calendarIo I n n o vat I o n a n d P r e c I s I o n
Annual Calendar reference 5135, the “Gondolo Calendario”, displays the day, date and month in three apertures set along an arc around the top of the dial . But it also has other distinguishing features . Enthusiasts with a penchant for handsome, exclusive timepieces will appreciate its tonneau-shaped case, reminiscent of the Art Deco style . The ingenious construction is a marvel of visual balance . The harmonious curves of the case, accentuated by a cushion-shaped bezel, flow gracefully into the lugs . This refined but dynamic form is echoed in the dial, whose round central section has an aperture for the moon phase and a 24 hour display .
5135 J
5135 G
5135 P
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s
26
perpetual calendars lookIng Into the future
In order to accommodate months with 31, 30 and 28 days, and 29 February in leap years, a movement must have a mechanical “memory” of four years – or 1461 days. This complicated mechanism is known as the “perpetual calendar”, a field where Patek Philippe is celebrated for having produced exceptionally fine wristwatch versions since 1925 . 5139 G
The perpetual calendar is one of the most useful complications, as the calendar requires no correction –assuming, of course, that the watch is worn on a regular basis . Quietly elegant, Reference 5139 focuses all attention on the intelligent layout of its displays, reflecting the architecture of Patek Philippe’s self-winding perpetual calendar caliber 240 Q. The superb legibility of the dial with its six additional indications, and the extreme thinness of the movement are complemented by a bezel adorned with the hobnail pattern specific to the Calatrava collection. Alert observers will recognize in this model a new version of the iconic 3940 of 1996, whose rhodiumcoated, opaline-white dial achieved a level of legibility and refinement that has never been equaled.
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M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – p e r p e t u a l c a l e n d a r s
28
5140 G
To many connoisseurs, self-winding caliber 240 Q remains one of the finest examples of the firm’s style and technique . Just 3 .88 mm high, it is one of the thinnest movements achieved with this type of complication . Nevertheless it has an impressive 275 parts, which gives some idea of the diminutive size of some of the components and the extreme care needed when assembling them . Another feature that helps limit the thickness of the case is the 22-karat gold off-center mini-rotor sunk into the movement . Despite its reduced diameter, the mass reacts to the slightest movement of the wrist, thereby ensuring optimal rewinding . Although the dial features a large number of analogue displays – month and leap year cycle at 3 o’clock, day and 24 hour indicator at 9 o’clock, date and moon phase at 6 o’clock – all are outstandingly sharp, attractive and easy to read .
Despite the large number of analog displays, the dial of Reference 5140 is extremely clear and readable. It features three subsidiary dials : month and leap year cycle at 3 o’clock ; 24-hour indicator and day of the week at 9 o’clock ; date and moon phase at 6 o’clock. This elegant but functional configuration is characteristic of all the models housing the self-winding perpetual calendar caliber 240 Q.
5140 J
29
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – p e r p e t u a l c a l e n d a r s
30
t h e P e r P e t u a l c a l e n d a r w I t h r e t r o g r a d e d at e a Proud tradItIon
For this dignified timepiece, the very useful functions of the perpetual calendar are housed in an Officer’s case, a type of case that was first seen during the First World War, when it was used for simple movements only . In keeping with a time-honored Patek Philippe tradition, the back of the magnificent 18-karat gold case is protected by a hinged dust cover . However, that is not this model’s only original feature, as the company’s engineers have endowed it with an additional complication, the retrograde, or fly-back, date hand, elegantly combined with the day, month and leap year displays in their apertures . A 240° arc between 8 o’clock and 4 o’clock carries a 31-day scale . The hand moves along the scale until it reaches the last day of the month (28, 29, 30 or 31) and then jumps back to the starting position . An exclusive, patented system disengages the hand during its fly-back phase, so that it cannot bounce forward by one or two days . Reference 5159 is powered by Patek Philippe’s self-winding caliber 324 S QR movement and is one of very few perpetual calendars with a center sweep seconds hand . 5159 G
The instant return of the calendar’s retrograde date hand is controlled by a spiralcoiled spring 1.
4 1 2 3
A mechanical system employing a blocking lever 2 ensures that the date hand returns to the 1st of the month. During the fly-back phase, the sprung blocking lever temporarily disengages the pawl 3 from the date-wheel, allowing the date hand to settle in the correct position. After the 1st of the month, the pawl returns to its initial position on the date wheel 4.
31
5159 J
The center of the dial is decorated with a hand-guilloched sunburst, creating a delicate play of light on the silvery opaline surface.
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s
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world tiMe a P e r m a n e n t I n v I tat I o n t o e x Pa n d y o u r h o r I z o n s
Elevated to cult status by seasoned travelers and collectors of extraordinary mechanical watches, the World Time features two rotating discs that simultaneously and continuously display the time in
5130 R
all 24 time zones. This ingenious complication, introduced by Patek Philippe in the 1930s, took a new step forward in terms of functionality in 2000 . A unique mechanism now enables its owner, when changing time zones, to correct all the displays collectively by a single pressure on a push button, without this affecting the rate accuracy of the movement by even a second . This patented system is exclusive to Patek Philippe’s World Time watches . Reference 5130 combines an elegant round case in the Calatrava style with a dial that is inspired by the dials of the first World Time watches, but is subtly reinterpreted . Its center is adorned with a guilloched sunburst pattern, in shimmering blue for the platinum version, giving the watch a dynamic, contemporary look . The ring-shaped hour hand is also reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s original World Time models and is reserved exclusively for this type of timepiece .
World Time Reference 5130 is presented in a gold or platinum Calatrava style case with a handsome dial reminiscent of the historical models. The shimmering guilloched sunburst at its center emphazises the distinctiveness of this timeless design .
5130 P
Wanderlust begins from the first glance at the dial of the magnificent Reference 5131, whose city-ring rotates around a colorful map in cloisonné enamel . The timepiece, in yellow or white gold with its bezel engraved with the words “Patek Philippe” and “Geneva”, perpetuates a rare artistic tradition in keeping with the history of the Patek Philippe World Time watch . The precious, handcrafted dial, created individually using a centuries-old technique, is reserved for timepieces produced in very limited series . It transforms each watch into a unique work of art . The version in yellow gold shows a map of Europe and the Americas, while the model in white gold, introduced in 2009, depicts Europe and Asia .
5131 J
The World Time self-winding caliber 240 HU movement. Superbly simple, the setting mechanism is based on an ingenious coupling system for which Patek Philippe filed Patent No. CH 693 191 in 2000. A single button simultaneously advances the city disc, the 24-hour disc and the hour hand for local time, without disturbing the rate accuracy of the movement by even a second.
33
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s
34
chronographs measured tIme
The Patek Philippe name is synonymous with prestigious chronographs. The wide range of models offers from one to as many as five complications. From 1860 onwards, Patek Philippe’s watchmakers have rejoiced in the challenge of recording imperceptible fractions of time on the dial of a watch . In 1922, the company built the world’s first split-seconds chronograph wristwatch . This was followed in the mid-1930s by new models remarkable for the quality of their finish . But it was the launch in 1941 of the extraordinary Reference 1518, which combined a chronograph with a perpetual calendar, that aroused the admiration connoisseurs still reserve for the Geneva firm today . The diversity of the current range of chronographs testifies to Patek Philippe’s creativity .
A chronograph is a timing instrument fitted with a counter that is used to measure and display the duration of an event, for example in sporting activities.
35
5959 P
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – c h r o n o g r a p h s
36
the annual calendar chronograPh a c o n c e n t r at I o n o f s t y l e
Long awaited by connoisseurs, this important timepiece houses the first self-winding chronograph movement developed and built entirely in Patek Philippe’s workshops, together with the renowned patented Annual Calendar mechanism . The unique construction of the movement enables the central chronograph hand to be used either as a continuous seconds-hand or as the chronograph’s seconds counter . The push button at 2 o’clock starts and stops a timing event, whilst the button at 4 o’clock resets the stationary chronograph hand or activates the fly-back function when the chronograph hand is running . As of 2009, Reference 5960 is available is rose gold or platinum . It is instantly recognizable by its distinctive dial in anthracite or silvery gray, enlivened with touches of red and blue : a delightful blend of classic and contemporary . The upper portion of the dial is reserved for the Annual Calendar, which displays the day, date and month in three apertures arranged along an arc from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock . The chronograph’s hour and minute counters are combined on a mono-counter in the lower section of the dial . This system ensures that times can be read quickly and easily .
5960 P
37
5960 R
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – c h r o n o g r a p h s
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t h e u lt r a - t h I n s P l I t- s e c o n d s c h r o n o g r a P h I n n o vat I o n I n s P I r e d b y t r a d I t I o n
Recognized as a technical jewel, the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5959 has two chronograph hands, one of which may be stopped to measure an intermediate or “split” time or keep a reference time while the other continues its course unaffected . When released again, the split-seconds hand overtakes the primary hand and the two stacked hands move on together . This technical feat calls for such a sophisticated mechanism that the split-seconds chronograph is considered one of the three most difficult complications to master, alongside the tourbillon and the minute repeater . But Patek Philippe’s engineers and watchmakers were not content to stop there . They set themselves the task of miniaturizing still further the precious complex of wheels and levers . The result was the thinnest split-second column-wheel chronograph movement ever built, just 5 .25 mm high . This classical caliber bears all the marks of the great watchmaking tradition, including control by two column-wheels with polished caps . The engineers also endowed this construction with several innovations . A new, patented tooth profile reduces the play between the chronograph wheels . The unusual construction of the minute-counter, which is coupled to the cannon-pinion, served to reduce the height of the movement . This caliber is also visually elegant . All the steel parts and bridges are decorated, chamfered and polished by hand . Each watch is crafted individually and only a few are produced each year . To honor the exclusive nature of its movement, this masterpiece is available only in platinum and is housed in a traditional Officer-style case .
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5959 P
The ultra-thin split-seconds chronograph Reference 5959 is what is known as a « chronographe trois temps ». The center push button in the crown activates the three following functions successively : start, stop and return to zero. The rectangular button set into the case between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock controls the split seconds-hand. This two-button system enables the user to measure an intermediate time and, if needed, retain a reference time (with the split seconds-hand) while continuing to measure other performances with the primary chronograph hand. 5959 P
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – c h r o n o g r a p h s
5004 J
PerPetual calendar chronograPhs a movement legend
Heir to a tradition that dates back to the early 1940s, the chronograph wristwatch with perpetual calendar reappeared at Patek Philippe in the mid-1980s, after an absence of more than twenty years . The iconic Reference 3970, born out of the great 1940s and 1950s models References 1518 and 2499, and its descendents of this century, house the mechanical caliber CH 27-70 movement . The construction of this caliber is based on a “Nouvelle Lémania” movement produced exclusively for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the company’s workshops . The mechanism presents many decorative refinements, and a number of significant improvements were introduced recently . Patek Philippe’s patented Gyromax balance and a Breguet balance spring, beating at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations/hour, enable time to be measured to one fifth of a second . r e f e r e n c e 5 0 0 4 , t h e m o s t c o m P l I c at e d Pat e k P h I l I P P e c h r o n o g r a P h
5004 P
By adding a perpetual calendar and a sophisticated splitseconds mechanism to the caliber CH 27-70 movement, Patek Philippe’s engineers and master watchmakers have produced the most complicated of all the company’s chronographs, Reference 5004 . The movement contains 407 parts, meticulously finished by hand according to the workshops’ time-honored techniques . With this rare combination of complications, Patek Philippe is giving fresh impetus to a tradition that began with Reference 2571, created in the 1940s .
41
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – c h r o n o g r a p h s
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reference 5970
Developed from the chronograph wristwatches with perpetual calendar of the 1940s and 1950s, Reference 5970 houses a movement in the grand traditional manner, with a 24 hour indicator and an extremely accurate moon phase display . It will take 122 years for the moon phase to vary from the lunar cycle by a single day . The perpetual calendar displays are particularly clear and well balanced, with apertures for day and month at 12 o’clock, a subsidiary dial for the leap year at 3 o’clock, and another for the date and moon phase at 6 o’clock . The movement is housed in a platinum case whose distinctive lugs and softened square push-pieces recall the aesthetic style of the historical models . reference 5971, a mechanIcal jewel In brIllIant form
Men are discovering the allure of precious stones, but technical brilliance must always come first . In response to their needs, the classic column-wheel chronograph with perpetual calendar Reference 5971, is now available in a platinum model with a black dial and a bezel and prong buckle set with 42 extra-white Top Wesselton baguette diamonds . The arts of the watchmaker and the jeweler fuse in this creation .
5970 P
References 5970 and 5971 pay a graceful tribute to the past. Their appearance is faithful to the tradition of the square-buttoned chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. Classically styled and distinguished by their large round cases, they feature a broad bezel and a sapphire-crystal case back.
In addition to horological prowess, a rare collection of other skills is required . The choice of 950 platinum is a challenge in itself : owing to its extreme density, it will take the specialized craftsmen twice or three times as long to stamp, mill, drill and polish the precious metal .
5971 P
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – c h r o n o g r a p h s
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reference 5070, the chronograPh at I t s P u r e s t
In 2002, after 50 years’ absence, the classic chronograph without additional complications returned to the Patek Philippe collections. The comeback, eagerly awaited by collectors, was celebrated first with a model in yellow gold housed in the large 42 mm case, with the broad bezel and square buttons typical of the 1930s and 40s . The handsome black dial with its two counters paid a contemporary tribute to a one-of-a-kind timepiece built by Patek Philippe in 1935 . In the more recent platinum model, a metallic blue sunburst dial shimmers beneath applied Arabic numerals in white gold . Well worthy of its forerunners, Reference 5070 houses the legendary manually wound caliber CH 27-70 column-wheel movement, which Patek Philippe has brought to a peak of mechanical purity . The construction of the mechanical caliber CH 27-70 is based on a Nouvelle Lémania movement manufactured exclusively for Patek Philippe. The movement has received extensive refinements, such as the traditional form of the bridges, whose edges are chamfered by hand, the column wheel with its polished cap and the heart-piece that ensures accurate return-to-zero of the chronograph hand. It comprises 208 parts.
45
5070 P
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The Sky Moon Tourbillon, Reference 5002, is the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch in regular production and the first double-faced wristwatch in the history of the company. It has twelve complications, including a minute repeater and a tourbillon device. The dial side presents a full perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display between 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock and four subsidiary dials whose hands point to the day of the week, the month, the leap-year cycle and the age of the moon.
5002 J
t h e e x c e p t i o n a l w at c h e s t h e b r I g h t e s t s ta r s o f a l l
Dominating their field, the grand complications bear witness to a prowess born of ancestral traditions combined with a relentless quest for innovation. In 1916, Patek Philippe unveiled the Packard watch, the fruit of its own desire to create an extraordinary timepiece and the encouragement of a passionate collector . The watch had 16 complications . Packard no . 2, announced in 1927, had a mere 10, but one of these, charting the sky above Warren, Ohio, brought out another collector’s competitive streak . Determined to outdo those two commissions, New York banker Henry Graves Junior ordered their creator to make the world’s most complicated timepiece . Eight years later Patek Philippe delivered the “Graves” watch, with 24 complications . The industrial baron’s heirs were no doubt pleased that his motto had been : “Nothing but the best, but discreetly”, for in 1999 the masterpiece was auctioned in New York for the record sum of 11 million U .S . dollars . And yet, ten years earlier it had ceased to be “the world’s most complicated timepiece” . The Caliber 89, created for Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary in 1989 still holds that title . It has 33 complications, including a secular perpetual calendar and the date of Easter . But its creators have moved on, thinking differently, constantly challenging the laws of mechanics . Having launched the Star Caliber 2000, with 21 complications, Patek Philippe remains the leader in the field . Its secret ? An impressive collection of grand complication wristwatches in regular production that draw on the “super complications” for their exceptional technical qualities .
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S k y M o o n T o u r b i l l o n A small wonder
Reference 5002 is the most complicated wristwatch ever produced by Patek Philippe and the workshop’s first double-faced wristwatch. The Sky Moon Tourbillon would never have seen the light of day without the technological advances made during the development of other extraordinary creations, such as the Caliber 89, the most complicated portable timepiece ever built, and the Star Caliber 2000, housing the 21 most fascinating complications. The task of accommodating 12 complications in the confined space of a wristwatch demanded a new step forward in extreme miniaturization and the Geneva workshop’s engineers and watchmakers rose to the challenge. The manually wound movement of the masterpiece comprises 686 parts, some of them microscopically small. Front side…
In addition to displaying mean solar time, or standard time, the upper face of this micro-mechanical tour de force presents an exceptional combination of some of the most rare and enchanting complications, such as a tourbillon escapement and a minute repeater chiming on cathedral gongs. The dial presents a perpetual calendar displaying the age of the moon – the number of days elapsed since the last full moon – together with the leap year cycle, the day of the week, the month, and a retrograde date hand.
…and celestial side
The reverse face presents a feature that is highly unusual in a wristwatch : a chart of the sky in the northern hemisphere, rotating anti-clockwise under the sapphire-crystal case back and depicting the motions of the moon and stars, the times of the meridian passages of Sirius and the moon, and the phases of the moon. To orchestrate this dance of the heavenly bodies, Patek Philippe devised a system of three stacked sapphire-crystal discs, rotating at different speeds : • one revolution every 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4.09892 seconds (sidereal day) for the disc displaying the sky chart, showing the time of the passage of Sirius across the local meridian and the positions of the stars (anti-clockwise rotation); • one revolution every 24 hours, 50 minutes and 28.328 seconds (lunar day) for the sapphire crystal disc showing the time of the moon’s meridian passage and the angular position of the moon (anti-clockwise rotation) • one half-revolution every 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.82 seconds for the disc displaying the phases of the moon in the lunar cycle (clockwise rotation). Sidereal time is literally “star time”. In our daily lives we use “mean solar time” (or “standard time”). On average, a sidereal day is almost four minutes shorter than a solar day. Sidereal time is very useful for determining the positions of the stars at a given time.
Floating above the Milky Way, two white-lacquered hands point to the hours and minutes in sidereal time. A golden ellipse frames the portion of the nocturnal sky that is visible from a given location. The patented mechanism, derived from the module developed for the supercomplicated pocket watch Star Caliber 2000, achieves a degree of precision never before attained in a representation of the celestial chart.
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Celestial H e av e n o n y o u r w r i s t
Reference 5102, the Patek Philippe Celestial, returns to the principle of the celestial chart found in the Sky Moon Tourbillon, but gives the heavenly bodies pride of place, on the dial side of the watch. At any time, the exact configuration of the nocturnal sky in the northern hemisphere, with the apparent movements of the stars and the phases and orbit of the moon can be admired. Two white-lacquered hands point to the hours and minutes in standard time. A golden ellipse on the underside of the sapphire glass frames the portion of the sky visible from Geneva and all other cities located on the same latitude. For 2009, this model is presented in a two-tone case of rose gold and platinum. Three superimposed sapphire-crystal discs form the dial of the Celestial : one each for the sky, the stars and the moon. The heavenly bodies featured on the discs, which are just two-tenths of a millimeter thick, are made by means of a vacuum process known as physical vapor deposition, or PVD. The discs then receive an anti-reflective treatment before being machined to their final shape and mounted onto the movement. It is only at the end of this extremely delicate process that the final result can be assessed. There are times when the whole operation has to begin all over again.
5102 R P
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1 0 d ay t o u r b I l l o n
The tourbillon – invented to counter the effects of gravity on the watch’s balance and its spring in vertical positions – is one of the most highly prized of the classical complications . Patek Philippe is the first watchmaker to present this device in a wristwatch with a power reserve of ten days . Given the difficulty of combining two complications that demand considerable space in such a confined area, Reference 5101, the 10 Day Tourbillon, is remarkable . The tourbillon cage alone has 72 parts, yet weighs a scant 0 .3 grams – giving some idea of the minuteness of its components . To achieve ten days’ power reserve, which no other tourbillon wristwatch can match, the rectangular movement is fitted with two mainspring barrels, designed to optimize the amount of stored energy . The watch may remain unworn for over a week without running down . A power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock informs the owner of the residual power . In honor of its exceptional contents, Reference 5101 has an elegant rose gold case in the Art Deco style with a three-tiered bezel and a cambered profile that gently hugs the wrist . This curvature is repeated in the convex sapphire crystal, which is ground parallel inside and out to eliminate any magnifying-glass effect . The dial strikes a perfect balance between the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and the small seconds at 6 o’clock and bears the inscription “Tourbillon” and the movement’s individual serial number . The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the meticulously decorated movement and the precious tourbillon, revolving once a minute in its cage .
5101 R
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t h e Pat e k P h I l I P P e t o u r b I l l o n s
The Patek Philippe tourbillons were devised to optimize the accuracy of the firm’s mechanical movements and have achieved legendary status . In the eighteenth century, watchmakers discovered that irregularities in the vibrations of the sprung balance, the regulating organ of a watch, were causing errors in rate . This was because the sprung balance’s center of gravity was not located at its geometric center, and the force of gravity thus accelerated or slowed the vibrations whenever the watch was in a vertical position . To cancel out these variations, the system’s center of gravity would have to be located at the center of rotation and would have to remain there during oscillation . The tourbillon solved this problem . The regulating organ and the escapement are contained in a mobile cage that rotates on its own axis once every 60 seconds . During the rotation, the balance spring’s center of gravity also rotates once a minute around the axis, thereby automatically annulling errors of rate in the vertical position . For technical reasons, Patek Philippe decided not to reveal the tourbillon in its mobile cage through an aperture on the dial, despite its beauty and complexity . The oil used to lubricate this precious device is sensitive to ultraviolet light . If exposed to daylight, it would lose its vital properties in a matter of months, penalizing the accuracy of the movement, increasing the wear on the parts and shortening the life of the device .
During the timing competition held by the Astronomical Observatory of Geneva in 1962, the pocket chronometer with a tourbillon mechanism No. 198 411 set a new record for precision in mechanical watches. The tourbillon devices equipping wrist chronometer No. 861 115 in 1945 and the caliber 34T for rectangular wrist chronometers also triumphed at these competitions in the 1950s and 1960s.
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3939H G
For many connoisseurs of beauty, Reference 3939H – with its minute repeater, tourbillon and small seconds dial – is the ultimate expression of elegance and understatement. A genuine enamel dial complements the pure lines and signals that this is a rare and precious timepiece.
m I n u t e r e P e at e r s
The sound of a timepiece striking the hours, quarters and minutes originally served to communicate the time in the dark . Today it remains one of the most remarkable and poetic functions that a watch can offer . However, the minute repeater is also an extraordinarily difficult complication to build, especially when it must be miniaturized to fit the dimensions of a wristwatch . Patek Philippe’s master watchmakers have long proved their supremacy in this field . Their first striking mechanisms date back to 1845, and the Patek Philippe minute repeater wristwatches are revered by connoisseurs for the incomparable purity and fullness of their tone . By pushing back the frontiers of the watchmaker’s art, the firm has also introduced minute repeaters with a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar – with or without a retrograde date hand – or even with an Annual Calendar . All these models are housed in splendid round or tonneau-shaped cases with elegantly understated dials .
In addition to a minute repeater, Reference 5033 houses the ingenious Annual Calendar mechanism, patented in 1996. For the first time, these two complications have been combined in the same movement, caliber R 27 PS QA, which constitutes a genuine technical innovation. The watch is delivered with two case backs, one in solid platinum and the other in sapphire crystal.
5033 P
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5074 R
5074 P
5074 R
Reference 5074, a minute repeater with perpetual calendar, houses a chiming mechanism with cathedral gongs . The tiny hammers strike on two strips of metal that are almost twice as long as classic gongs and circle the movement twice . The result is a full, rich tone and a particularly long reverberation, which enhances yet again the legendary sound quality of the Patek Philippe minute repeater . This timepiece is produced in rose gold with a black or white dial or in 950 platinum with a black dial . It displays the day of the week, the date, the month, the year, the leap year cycle and the 24 hour indicator .
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reference 5078
Quietly elegant Reference 5078 is blessed with one of the most sublime sounds known to the watchmaking world . This classically understated model houses the remarkable caliber R 27 PS self-winding movement with minute repeater, chiming the hours, quarters and minutes . A case in 950 platinum frames an authentic white enamel dial . Each dial is crafted individually, using a centuries-old technique that produces a lasting brilliance much loved by collectors . The small seconds dial at 6 o’clock adds a visual note to this watch’s graceful approach to time .
Before leaving the Haute Horlogerie workshop, each minute repeater is inspected in minute detail on the dial side and the movement side, and its case is polished. It then leaves for the final controls and to have its bracelet fitted.
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5078 P
5078 P
Contrary to our ancestors’ clocks, the minute repeater does not strike in passing. Instead, it is armed by a slide that causes the mechanism to “read” the hour by means of feelers in contact with cams. This activates two hammers, striking the hours on a low-pitched gong, followed by the quarters on the low gong and a higherpitched gong, and finally the minutes on the highpitched gong. The “gong” is a long spring that circles the perimeter of the movement. The alloy, shape and length of the gong determine the sound quality.
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four hands and a self-wIndIng movement for a m I n u t e r e P e at e r w I t h P e r P e t u a l c a l e n d a r
Reference 5013 is the first minute repeater to possess both a self-winding movement and a retrograde date . But it also has other attributes . The distinctive shape and the beautifully balanced dial give this timepiece an original style that is sought after by collectors and knowledgeable enthusiasts . Nothing is allowed to disturb the outstanding legibility of the perpetual calendar’s day, month and leap year displays in their apertures . The analogue displays for the hours, minutes, small seconds and retrograde date are also particularly clear . A collector reports : “The unique design of Reference 5013 inevitably sparks questions and leads to a lively discussion when I am dining with friends . And since I will seize any excuse to talk about Patek Philippe watches, I am only too happy” .
5013 R
5013 P
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5207 P
reference 5207
At first glance, Reference 5207 presents the classic, understated appearance of a Calatrava, with a balanced, legible dial in 18-karat gold . It takes a closer look to see the slide for the minute repeater on the hand-engraved side of the case and the tourbillon, which, as always in a Patek Philippe wristwatch, is visible only through the sapphire-crystal case back . This timepiece also incorporates a new, instantaneous perpetual calendar whose apertures are arranged in an unusual formation, with the day of the week, the date and the month arching across the top of the dial from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock and the day/night and leap year displays at 7 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively . But one of the most spectacular features may be seen only at midnight : the instantaneous switching of all the perpetual calendar’s displays . This complex, patented function requires 212 components, bringing the total number of parts in the movement to 549 .
reference 5104
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Reference 5104 houses a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand and a moon-age display (indicating the number of days elapsed since the last full moon) . And it does so with unprecedented transparency . The front side offers the mesmerizing spectacle of the self-winding movement and, clearly visible against this intricate backdrop, the skeleton hour and minute hands and the day of the week, the month and the leap year cycle . The legibility of the displays is achieved by an ingenious patented system of sapphire-crystal discs, each one carrying a black metalized rectangle . The discs rotate beneath the transparent subsidiary dials, making the white markings visible . A retrograde date hand points to the date on the graduated blue periphery of the dial and a hand-decorated slide activates the music of the hours, quarters and minutes .
5104 P
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reference 5016 summIt meetIng
Launched in 1993, Reference 5016 held the title of the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch ever made, until the arrival of the Sky Moon Tourbillon in 2001 followed by Reference 5207 in 2008 . Its classic Calatrava case in yellow, rose or white gold or platinum unites the complications most highly prized by those with a passion for exceptional watches : the tourbillon, the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar – completed with a retrograde date hand and a moon phase display . The movement making this masterpiece possible comprises 506 parts .
5016 J
5016 R
5 296 R
The essence of classicism Introduction
H
onor the passing of time with styles that will resist it. Capture the best of an era in forms that will transcend short-lived
trends. Be new but eternal, modern but timeless. Such is the challenge, and the spirit, that has always guided Patek Philippe, in each of its creations. It has inspired the firm’s designers to create iconic wristwatches that are recognized as the great classics of elegance. The refined simplicity of the Calatrava’s round case. The Art Deco flair of the Gondolo models. The perfect proportions of the Golden Ellipse. All arouse an emotion as enduring as the precious movements that they enclose.
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5098 57 3 8
3738/100
5124
gondolo
the golden ellIPse
5108
5118
5153
6000
5 2 96
5 1 96
5 1 2 0/ 1
5120
5116
5119
M e n ’ s w at c h e s
c a l at r ava
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Calatrava for two. The Calatrava model with a hobnailpatterned bezel – now offered in a slightly larger diameter – is one of Patek Philippe’s most familiar faces. To celebrate a special event, this men’s model can now be accompanied by the ladies’ model Reference 7119. The pair are presented in 18-karat white gold on alligator straps.
5119, 7119 G
c a l at r ava l e g e n d a ry u n d e r s tat e m e n t
Patek Philippe’s signature model remains the epitome of elegance. The Calatrava was born in 1932, inspired by the minimalist philosophy of the Bauhaus that form should follow function . Hence the design of the case is a faithful reflection of the circular architecture of the movement, and the clean layout of the dial, where all the emphasis is on clarity and legibility . With its understated, timeless style this timepiece has come to represent the distilled essence of the round wristwatch . Supremely elegant, it has charmed generation after generation by a perfection that leaves fashion far behind . Whether the bezel is flat or rounded, sleek or guilloched or set with precious stones, the case ultraslim or large, the dial classic or slightly more technical, the Calatrava continues to evolve and reveal new facets of its personality, whilst retaining its purity and legendary restraint . Instantly recognizable, this iconic timepiece is one of the finest symbols of the Patek Philippe style .
5119 R
Illustration : one of the earliest Calatrava watches, Reference 96, launched in 1932, has played a key role in the collection’s enduring appeal. Although its diameter of 31 mm would be judged too small for a man’s wristwatch by today’s standards, its sense of style has influenced generations of later models. It has been interpreted in a wealth of color schemes and in all the metals from which a watch can be made, from stainless steel to noble platinum. The success of the graphically striking Reference 96SC, with its two-tone silvered dial, won this model a place of honor in the Patek Philippe Museum’s permanent collection.
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5120/1 G
9719 /1 J 5120 J
Diamond-point engraving, which dates from the Middle Ages and flourished in the work of the cabinetmakers to Louis XIII, was revived centuries later by Parisian jewelers, who adopted it as their own and renamed the motif “Clous de Paris”, or “hobnail”. In the new Reference 5116, housing the manually wound caliber 215 PS movement, the guilloched hobnail bezel frames a dial in genuine enamel. References 5120 and 5120/1 are fitted with self-winding caliber 240.
5116 G
9089 J
The outbreak of the First World War in 1914 brought with it the need for a safer, more accessible place for a watch than at the end of a chain in a waistcoat pocket. This practical need gave birth to the officer-style watch, reserved for men of Officer rank and inspired by the shape of the pocket watches of the time. The simple, functional dial, and the features that denote a case requiring exceptional skill to build – the hinged dust cover, the knurled, turban-style crown, the screwed strap bars – continue to fascinate those with a passion for classical timepieces. A splendid example is the new Reference 5153, housing selfwinding caliber 324 S C.
5153 J
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74 5196 J
Occasionally, the Calatrava exchanges its sophisticated guilloched hobnail pattern for a simple, polished finish. Its bezel may be sleek or slightly rounded, according to the model. The watch may be equipped with a self-winding or manually wound movement (References 5296 and 5196 respectively).
5196 R
5196 G
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5296 G
5296 G
5296, 9083 R
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51 96 P
The new folding buckle is delivered with self-winding Reference 6000. It is available in the three shades of gold and in platinum and may be ordered separately and adapted to other models originally fitted with classic prong buckles.
6000 G
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5118 P
Diamonds are quietly magnificent on the understated Calatrava. Framed by a bezel entirely set with diamonds, a white or black dial marks the hours with three long baguette diamonds and eight diamonds in gold chatons, all of flawless Top Wesselton quality. These handsome watches are worn on a leather strap and may be complemented by cuff links in gold and diamonds, centering an onyx engraved with the Calatrava Cross.
5108 R
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5108, 9108 G
5098 R
gondolo tImeless PerfectIon
A fine design never ages. The Gondolo collection brings together most of Patek Philippe’s form watches. With their tonneau-shaped or rectangular cases, strong lines and geometric simplicity, the Gondolo models are a contemporary interpretation of the Art Deco style . This artistic movement blossomed in the early twentieth century, when its philosophy of avant-garde design combined with traditional craftsmanship saw the creation of objects of great value . Patek Philippe has given new life – and a subtle infusion of modernity – to some of its own historical pieces from the period, displayed in the Patek Philippe Museum . The watches in the Gondolo collection are distinguished by their bold but refined shapes and their sophisticated construction, which calls for exceptional skill . They derive their name from the Brazilian firm of Gondolo & Labouriau in Rio de Janeiro, a famous client and retailer for whom Patek Philippe produced innumerable special series known as the “Chronometro Gondolo” collections between 1902 and 1930 . 5098 P
chronometro gondolo, reference 5098
The dial of Reference 5098 is crafted from a plate of gold and guilloched by hand over its entire surface.
Inspired by a historical model from 1925, the “Chronometro Gondolo” Reference 5098 in platinum or rose gold has a cambered, tonneau-shaped case with subtle new refinements . The sapphire-crystal case back offers a privileged view of the manually wound rectangular Caliber 25-21 movement .
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5124 G
The Art Deco case of Reference 5124 houses the rectangular caliber 25-21 REC PS, the first form movement without complications to be created by Patek Philippe since the 1930s and 1940s. That period saw the launch of the famous caliber 9-90 of 1934, produced for more than thirty years. Reference 5124 features a cambered sapphire crystal case back revealing the detailed beauty of its movement.
5124 J
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the golden ellipse the PurIst’s gem
An elliptical case, between a circle and a rectangle . A dial in blue gold, with gold hands and hour markers floating over its depths . When it first appeared in 1968, Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse was a bold departure from traditional watch shapes . But far from bowing to fashion, this innovative watch had a sense of inner harmony that was very pleasing to the eye . Its design was inspired by the principle of the “golden section” discovered by the ancient mathematicians . This “divine” proportion, expressed as a ratio of 1 / 1 .6181, forms the basis of some of history’s greatest works of art and architecture . The Golden Ellipse, with its unique mix of daring and harmony, is one of the most instantly identifiable of Patek Philippe’s creations . In homage to this monument of classic elegance, the firm has introduced new color combinations alongside the original model in yellow gold with its blue gold dial . Versions in rose or white gold display dials in delicate new shades . Dedicated to connoisseurs and those with an eye for beauty, the Golden Ellipse combines the allure of innovative design with the enduring quality of an extra-thin, self-winding movement in the great Geneva horological tradition .
3738/100, 9102 J
An innovative case shape was not all that attracted attention when this watch was introduced in 1968. The eye-catching dial with its mysterious blue depths fascinated then as now. The details of the procedure enabling a gold dial to take on this extraordinary blue color remain one of the company’s most closely guarded secrets.
With the new Reference 5738, created to celebrate the 40th anniversary (1968-2008) of the iconic Golden Ellipse with its distinctive blue- gold dial, Patek Philippe re-introduced the large-size model, for the first time in a platinum case . The original large model was produced from the end of the 1960s to the beginning of the 1980s and is highly prized by collectors.
5738 P
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9102 G
For the man who knows the importance of the perfect accessory Patek Philippe has interpreted the elliptical golden section in three pairs of cufflinks, in the same shades as the cases and the dials of the watches. Elegant key rings add the final touch.
9602 G
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3738/100, 9102 G
3738/100, 9102 R
5 711/1 A
Sporting elegance Introduction
C
reating complicated movements is not the only way in which Patek Philippe’s engineers and designers demonstrate their skills.
Developing elegant sports watches is also a formidable challenge. Very few timepieces meet all the criteria of both technical robustness and refined aesthetic appeal. Patek Philippe stands out in this respect as the creator of two watches that have achieved cult status : the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. These are beautifully made watches that combine the best of both worlds. Elegance and performance. Casual and refined. Style and strength. Their cases are built for extreme protection against shocks, water and dust, whilst projecting a cool, understated appearance. With their masterly design, fine materials and superb surface finishes, they look equally handsome with jeans, a three-piece suit or formal evening wear – and are the perfect companions to an active lifestyle.
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5 1 67 5 1 67/ 1
5165 aquanaut
57 12
57 12/1
nautIlus
57 1 9/ 1
5 9 8 0/ 1
57 11
57 2 2 57 1 3 / 1
57 11/1
57 2 4 M e n ’ s w at c h e s
5712 R
nautilus d y n a m I c a l ly e l e g a n t
A case inspired by a porthole and a rounded octagonal bezel : Patek Philippe’s paragon of casual elegance for over thirty years.
5712/1 A
Apart from displaying the hours and minutes, the complicated Nautilus Reference 5712/1 has a subsidiary seconds dial at 4 o’clock, a power reserve indicator between 10 o’clock and 11 o’clock and an analog date at 7 o’clock with an integrated moonphase aperture.
The Nautilus, launched in 1976, continues to define casual elegance . Acclaimed by collectors and enthusiasts from the moment it first appeared, it acquired cult status virtually overnight . It owes its success to the unique shape of its case and bezel and its ingenious construction, inspired by the portholes of the old transatlantic liners . In those days, a system of hinges and tension bolts was used to secure the round window against the frame, thereby sealing it hermetically . This avant-garde approach to water-resistance enabled Patek Philippe to create an elegant sports watch that was water-resistant to a depth of 120 meters, an almost unheard of performance feature in the 1970s . Over the years, the Nautilus grew into a collection, which was subtly reworked for its thirtieth anniversary . It has retained the softened octagonal shape, but the two lateral hinges are now gently rounded, reflecting the lateral curvature of the bezel . The dials have undergone small refinements to enhance their legibility . Nevertheless, they remain true to the 1970s originals, with the horizontal embossing pattern emphasized by a subtle gradation of color . The steel bracelets are even more supple and comfortable and some models are available in yellow, white or rose gold on an alligator strap . The collection now also includes a chronograph with a self-winding movement developed and built by Patek Philippe – perfectly timed for the next thirty years of this dynamic tradition .
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5712 G
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5711, 9057 R
For demanding sports activities, the References 5711 and 5712 on alligator straps are delivered with a second, interchangeable composite strap.
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – s p o r t i n g e l e g a n c e – n a u t i l u s
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5711/1 A
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5711, 9057 J
To underline the elegance of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe’s master jewelers have created cufflinks that repeat the exclusive horizontal pattern of the Nautilus dial. A diamondset model is also available.
5711, 9057 G
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“When this case was first launched in 1976, inspired by the construction of the portholes of the old cruise ships, it excited tremendous interest, owing to its complexity and avant-garde approach to water resistance. Thirty years later, its structural complexity is as innovative as ever. In an ordinary watch, the back is screwed straight onto the middle of the case : the tighter the screws, the greater the pressure that ensures water resistance. In the case of the Nautilus, the two case parts (middle and back of the case) are placed against each other and pressed together with a pin that goes through the lateral lugs at 9 and 3, and the closure of the case ensures water resistance by compressing a gasket. The parts must be machined and finished with great precision, particularly as the two lateral screws have no tightening function”. — E. F., creation
5980/1 A
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Chronograph 5980/1
Resolutely sporty, the Reference 5980/1 chronograph with fly-back hand completes the Nautilus collection. The 44 mm case houses the new Patek Philippe column-wheel-controlled caliber CH 28-520 C self-winding chronograph movement incorporating a vertical disc-type clutch. As this device is virtually friction-free, the chronograph hand can double as a continuously running center sweep seconds hand. The large mono-counter has three concentric scales that keep track of the elapsed minutes and hours of a timed event. The two chronograph push pieces blend elegantly into the original design of the case and integrated bracelet. The push piece at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph ; the push piece at 4 o’clock resets the chronograph hand when it is stationary or returns it to zero while it is in motion (the fly-back function).
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – s p o r t i n g e l e g a n c e – n a u t i l u s
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the gem-setters’ skIlls add brIllIance to the m a s c u l I n e s P o r t s w at c h
A robust sports watch is not afraid of the fire of diamonds . To respond to the growing demand for a masculine watch that combines technical looks and performance with the exclusive air of precious stones – and does so with elegance – the Nautilus has called on the skills of the master jeweler . Its bezel may be lit with round-cut diamonds (Reference 5713) or more imposing baguette stones (Reference 5722), whose fire occasionally spreads to the bracelet attachments and clasp (Reference 5724) . But most resplendent of all is undoubtedly Reference 5719/1, entirely paved with diamonds, from the case to the bracelet and clasp . This magnificent timepiece enables the gem-setters to exercise their own brilliance to the full .
5713/1, 9058 G
101
5722 G
M e n ’ s w a t c h e s – S p o r t i n g e l e g a n c e – N a u t i l u s
102
5719/1 G
103
5724 G , 205. 9 7 2 4 /1 G
240. 9724/ 1 G , 225. 9724/1 G
M e n ’ s w at c h e s – s p o r t i n g e l e g a n c e
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aquanaut mIssIon accomPlIshed
The Aquanaut captures today’s spirit of casual elegance. It is a flawless blend of robust construction and clean lines. A case that is water-resistant to 120 meters, a screw-down crown and a composite “Tropical” strap – ultra-resistant to wear, salt-water and UV radiation – make the Aquanaut the most durable of watches . In 2007, the collection marked its tenth anniversary with a new model for men, available in two imposing sizes, Large and Extra Large . The polished octagonal case has preserved its distinctive shape, inspired by the case of the Nautilus, and its harmonious proportions, complemented by the sheen of a satin-finished bezel . The black dial and strap feature a new structure, with gently curved, engraved grooves that underscore the resolutely technical and masculine look . Available in steel or the new rose gold version and powered by self-winding mechanical movements, the Aquanaut combines its modern, sporty appeal with the classic qualities of a timepiece from the Patek Philippe workshops : accuracy, dependability and fine workmanship .
5167 A
The Aquanaut drew inspiration for its design from the famous Nautilus, particularly the softened octagonal bezel. But the younger watch has its own resolutely modern personality.
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M e n ’ s w a t c h e s – S p o r t i n g e l e g a n c e – A q u a n a u t
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107
5165 A
5167 R
The Aquanaut collection offers the choice of models on steel bracelets and others with the original composite “Tropical� strap. A new model combines the contemporary flair of the composite strap with the nostalgic charm of rose gold – a sure sign that the Aquanaut has achieved classic status.
5167/1 A
M e n ’ s w at c h e s
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5180/1 G
Rare skills T h e pa s t a d o r n s t h e p r e s e n t
Patek Philippe is faithful to the traditions of its art and perpetuates the knowledge and skills of its ancestors through sublime creations. The Geneva firm is committed to preserving the decorative secrets inherited from the past, through contemporary creations that ensure a future for the noble traditional arts. Surely the best way to prevent these precious artisan skills from sinking into oblivion is to apply them to the present ?
The delicate art of creating a skeleton watch consists of cutting away at the movement’s plates and bridges up to the very limits of what is mechanically feasible. Three rare qualities are required to achieve such a feat : mastery of this ancient craft, exceptional artistic sense and boundless patience, as weeks of work are required to engrave and decorate the barrel and plate alone.
None of the arts used in the decoration of a watch are neglected or forgotten. In some cases, Patek Philippe seeks out the last remaining artisans still able to master all the subtleties of a vanishing technique. Miniature painting on enamel ; traditional, cloisonné or champlevé enameling ; Geneva enameling ; engraving ; the sculpting of a skeleton movement ; and all the finesse of the jeweler. These venerable skills grace watches that are often one of a kind, created for connoisseurs who will treasure their rare beauty.
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rare skills
110
e n g r av I n g
The engraver’s tools – the burins and punches and other humble wood-handled instruments – testify to the age of this most ancient of the art forms traditionally associated with horology . In the hands of an artist, they can transform the gold case of a pocket watch into a scene whose subtle suggestions of light, shade and relief are stunningly lifelike . They may also decorate the fragile architecture of a skeleton movement, turning it into a filigree of spirals and curls . This highly skilled, delicate undertaking is reserved for the elite of a profession whose ranks are sadly depleted . In 1789, Geneva had two hundred registered engravers ; today there are barely ten . enamelIng
This term embraces a range of complex techniques, all of which are honored in Patek Philippe’s workshops . Authentic enamel is a glass-like substance that is used in the form of colored enamel powders . These are mixed with special oils and then applied like paint and subjected to successive firings in an oven heated to 800 degrees Celsius . Patek Philippe perpetuates the basic application of this technique in creating its traditional white enamel dials . Another technique is enamel under flux, or Geneva enamel . This term describes translucent colored enamels that are applied to an engine-turned surface to create a moire effect of sunbursts or waves . But the most demanding technique – apart from the exquisite miniature painting on enamel, reserved for a few pocket watches each year – is cloisonné enamel, in which the colored enamels are set and fired in a pattern formed by partitions of gold wire . The effect is as vibrant
Actual size
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The one-of-a-kind watch calls for techniques combining enameling and engraving. Patek Philippe perpetuates these rare skills through the talents of the few remaining specialists. Decoration of the “Judith” miniature, from the painting by Gustav Klimt, required champlevé work for the background, relief engraving for the necklace and engraving after enameling for the landscape. The miniature painting was produced in “grand feu” enamel, a traditional Geneva technique. Touches of relief enamel on the necklace simulate the sparkle of the precious stones.
rare skills
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as a stained-glass window . This delicate art is reserved for timepieces created in very limited series : the Dôme table clocks, the World Time wristwatches with their colorful, stylized maps, or limited edition watches whose dials portray special themes .
Enameling entered horology in the 16th century and flourished more recently with the Art Nouveau movement in the early 20th century. It has since been largely forgotten, but Patek Philippe is a staunch defender of its most demanding technique – cloisonné enameling. The Dôme table clocks, a tradition within the company, are such superb and sought-after examples that they are bound to keep this precious art alive.
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Chapter II
1 0 va lu e s
T
he unparalleled renown and pres-
tige that Patek Philippe has acquired amongst connoisseurs is not due solely
to the perfection of the watches and the resources of knowledge and skill contained in the workshops. This undisputed supremacy also stems from the consistency with which the independent family business has applied its philosophy of excellence ever since it was founded in 1839. This Patek Philippe spirit is embodied in the values that have enabled the company to forge its own destiny by enforcing its difference. Independence. Tradition. Innovation. Quality and fine workmanship. Rarity. Value. Aesthetics. Service. Emotion. Heritage. Ten founding values that have always represented the very essence of Patek Philippe, and will continue to do so for generations to come.
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1 0 va l u e s
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Independence Patek Philippe is geneva’s oldest independent, familyowned watch manufacturer. Its independence, combined with the family’s strong sense of vocation, enables the company to go its own way and control its own destiny whilst remaining true to the values that have formed its reputation. the company benefits from total creative freedom. it conceives and manufactures its movements according to its own quality criteria and produces only watches that reflect, in every respect, its philosophy of excellence. independence also enables patek philippe to pursue a longterm vision — without the obligation of short-term profitability. its workshops can take the time required to work on a design until it is deemed perfect or to plan new developments, without the commercial pressure to rush novel ideas or superfluous technological features to market. it is free to delay or even cancel the launch of a product that would not fully satisfy its stringent requirements. as the guarantee of continuity, durability and trust, independence is a priceless asset that remains, now more than ever, at the heart of the patek philippe culture.
h o m e o f t h e e x c e P t I o n a l — and symbol of independence. In 1996, the company moved all its principal activities to a building in Plan-les-Ouates, at the outskirts of Geneva. This elegant and impressive complex combines under one roof all the skills and professions that contribute to producing a Patek Philippe timepiece – from machining the components to assembling the movements and watches, together with the Research and Development division. The result is a formidable production tool that has enabled the company to strengthen its position and its leadership image. The strikingly modern design of the building also signals Patek Philippe’s forward-looking approach and ability to navigate between the past and future, between ancestral knowledge and advanced technologies.
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tradition
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Patek Philippe was founded in 1839 and its history is part of Geneva’s great watchmaking tradition. It is the story of a unique heritage, the fruit of 170 years’ experience, ingenuity and passion that the company safeguards and develops in all its disciplines and skills. Its watchmakers remain faithful to the noble artisanal traditions. Day after day, they perpetuate the beautiful age-old gestures, the sharpness of eye and sureness of touch that have always distinguished the fine art of watchmaking. These skills live on in perfect harmony with the company’s most advanced technology. Over its 170 years, Patek Philippe has founded its own tradition, made up of its love of excellence, quest for perfection and drive to surpass itself. Respect for the past does not enable it to rest on its laurels. Instead, the company cultivates the dynamic potential of its tradition and reinvents itself ceaselessly, true to the pioneering spirit of its art. A m a g n i f i c e n t m u s e u m — An essential address for every watch lover, the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva takes the visitor on a fascinating exploration of the tradition of innovation that the company upholds. A splendid collection of antique watches from the 16th to 19th centuries bears witness to four hundred years of horological history and includes some of mankind’s finest creative works. The Patek Philippe collections from 1839 to the present day are illustrated by more than a thousand timepieces, some of them priceless works of art. Their rarity rivals that of the complicated watches and other pieces created for high profile players on the world stage. A superb presentation of miniature portraits in enamel pays homage to this delicate art, which contributed to Geneva’s renown. The Patek Philippe Museum houses around 2000 exhibits, some of them extremely rare, 7000 written works on horology and 200 antique machines and tools, displayed in an area over2000 square meters.
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I n n ovat i o n Patek Philippe was born to innovate. The partnership between Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe resulted in the patent for an invention that revolutionized watchmaking : the stem winding and setting mechanism, infinitely more practical than winding a watch with a key. Since then, as the undisputed masters of complications and creators in 1989 of the most complicated portable timepiece ever made, the companys teams have continued to push back the frontiers of the watchmaking art, regularly bringing out new mechanisms and functions that are acclaimed for their superior construction. At the helm is the Research and Development department, which explores new ways of improving the quality and reliability of the watches, develops new products and keeps the production methods on the cutting edge. Research into new materials and access to the most advanced technology enabled Patek Philippe to present the first escape wheel in Silinvar® in 2005, the patented Spiromax® balance-spring in Silinvar® in 2006 and the Pulsomax®, the first escapement developed entirely by Patek Philippe, in 2008.
A b r i l l i a n t r e c o r d o f a c h i e v e m e n t s — Patek Philippe has confirmed its pioneering role by filing over 80 patents, including twenty of major importance to the advancement of horology : watch with a stem winding and setting system (1845); precision regulator (1881); perpetual calendar mechanism (1889); double chronograph (1902); Gyromax balance (1949/1951); time-zone watches (1959/1962); self-winding movement with peripheral winding rotor (1964); date of Easter mechanism (1985); Annual Calendar (1996), mechanism displaying astronomical indications (2000); Spiromax® balance-spring (2006); new Pulsomax escapement (2008). The Star Caliber 2000 alone incorporated a total of six new patented inventions.
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Q ua l i t y and fine wo r k m a n s h i p
123
Antoine Norbert de Patek and Adrien Philippe had one goal : to develop, manufacture and assemble the finest timepieces in the world. Today, more than ever, “quality” and “fine workmanship” remain the watchwords for every aspect of Patek Philippe’s production. The company has always set itself formidable standards, whether in terms of the movements, the external features or the rate accuracy of the watches. This quest for perfection is embodied in the Patek Philippe Seal, the most exclusive of quality hallmarks, which will appear on all the company’s mechanical watches from 2009 onwards. The Patek Philippe Seal applies to the watch in its entirety. It testifies to the extreme precision and reliability of the movement and the quality of its finish. The stringent criteria also encompass all the exterior elements – the case, dial, hands etc. – and the aesthetic and functional aspects of the finished watch. The Patek Philippe Seal is also the first quality hallmark in the watchmaking industry to include the promise of lifetime service. It guarantees that all the watches delivered since the company was founded in 1839 will be serviced and restored. E l o q u e n t f i g u r e s — It takes more than 1,200 operations to make the components of a single Patek Philippe self-winding movement and 40 to 60 to make a single wheel. 30 % of the operations are devoted to technical considerations and to ensuring that the movement executes its basic functions correctly. 70 % concern additional procedures, and almost half of these are dedicated solely to meeting the unparalleled functional, aesthetic and quality norms that Patek Philippe has set for itself and that comply to the criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal.
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Rarity The Patek Philippe watch is developed and manufactured to be an exclusive creation. The company’s combined production over the past 170 years is less than 1 % of the Swiss watchmaking industry’s current production in one year. And enthusiasts the world over know exactly why : whether in terms of the movements, the mechanisms or the designs, the rigorous standards applied systematically to every step of the production process make each Patek Philippe a precious, unique creation coveted by every connoisseur. C o l l e c t i v e m e m o ry — Produced in small series, each Patek Philippe represents a precious piece of the company’s collective memory. From its earliest days, the workshops have taken care to record the individual serial numbers engraved on the movement and inside the case. These records are painstakingly filed and archived by year and constitute a collection of more than seven hundred volumes. This discipline and attention to detail enables the company to offer all the registered owners of a Patek Philippe services such as verifying information about their watch.
va lu e as the product of exceptional know-how and an immense body of work, a Patek Philippe watch is destined to retain its value. It is an investment for the present and the future. Many of the models achieve cult status over time, a distinction that they owe to their intrinsic quality and the major role that they have played in the evolution of watchmaking. their solid reputation amongst connoisseurs confirms to other purchasers that in acquiring a patek philippe they are bringing an asset into their family that will be valued by future generations. s y m b o l o f va l u e a n d r a r I t y — This timepiece from the Patek Philippe Museum is the earliest known example of a wristwatch with perpetual calendar. Thomas Emery wristwatch, Patek Philippe Geneva, No. 97 975, sold on 13 October 1927. Left-hand page : the Thomas Emery Tourbillon, a pocket chronometer with small seconds and a one-minute tourbillon regulator. At the timing competition held by the Geneva Observatory in 1929/1930, this chronometer outperformed 29 others to win first prize, with 843 points out of a possible 1000. Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-1638.
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1 0 va l u e s
128
A e st h e t i c s Patek Philippe watches are both high-precision instruments for measuring the time and aesthetic creations whose elegance reflects their mechanical perfection. Their designs outlive passing fashions without ever losing their appeal and modernity. Patek Philippe has established its own understated, timeless style, far removed from short-lived trends : a harmonious combination of personality and discretion, elegance and an aristocratic touch. The style has inspired models with simple, strong, refined lines, many of which have quickly become classics. Now, as always, subtle modifications enable the watches to evolve, whilst retaining all their characteristic charm. The passion for beauty is reflected not only in the perfect proportions, the noble materials and the delicacy of the decorative work, but in the smallest movement parts, even those that are completely hidden. The bridges are decorated with chamfered, mirror-polished edges and Geneva striping ; the plates are adorned with a fine, circular-grained perlage pattern. Every detail must comply with the spirit of fine watchmaking and the criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal. T h e a r t o f f i n e wat c h m a k i n g — At Patek Philippe, beauty of finish must always be allied with rigorous respect for the geometry of all the functional parts. A decorative treatment must never compromise performance quality, whether it concerns the external features or the movement.
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Service To provide its discerning international clientele with a service in keeping with its reputation for excellence, Patek Philippe works with a handpicked distribution network. Patek Philippe has enjoyed privileged relations with its retailers for many generations ; in some cases for over 150 years. More than 500 retailers representing the company in over 70 countries have been selected according to stringent requirements in terms of the friendliness and helpfulness of the staff, the knowledge of watchmaking and the elegance of the store. Together with our exclusive Patek Philippe Salons, these carefully chosen stores are the only retailers officially authorized to sell our timepieces. In addition, the sales professionals receive special technical training so that they can provide customers with the best possible advice and service. Patek Philippe has always believed that its duty is to provide each customer with impeccable after-sales service. After all, a watch that was built to work generation after generation demands regular care and attention to remain as reliable as ever. Demonstrating that belief in continuity, the workshops conserve a stock of spare parts dating back to the earliest days, as well as the old technical drawings and tools that will enable them, if necessary, to reproduce a part exactly. With this unique service, they are equipped to service, repair and restore the firm’s historic timepieces. Pa s s p o r t t o p e a c e o f m i n d — Delivered in its original presentation case, each Patek Philippe comes with a Certificate of Origin, its own “birth certificate” attesting that it was built and rated according to the company’s phenomenally stringent criteria. This document also constitutes the watch’s guarantee and must be duly filled out for the guarantee to be valid. It enables the owner to benefit from the maintenance and repair services offered by the worldwide network of Patek Philippe Service Centers. These Centers employ qualified watchmakers who receive regular training in Patek Philippe’s workshops to enhance and update their knowledge of every aspect of the company’s products.
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Em ot i o n Ask the owner of a Patek Philippe to talk to you about their watch and you will hear a story of passion, love and mutual affection. A Patek Philippe timepiece is far more than a means of telling the time ; it is a unique, personal object steeped in precious memories. Most of the people who possess a timepiece from the company’s workshops feel a strong connection with their watch and see it as an important part of their lives. The purchase of a Patek Philippe is often related to a personal event – a professional success, a marriage or the birth of a child – and offering it as a gift is the most eloquent expression of love or affection. This emotion is not only expressed in each of the company’s watches. It is at the heart of all Patek Philippe’s activities and its relations with its distributors and retailers and, of course, its customers.
I m a g e s o f e x c e l l e n c e — The luxurious Patek Philippe magazine is distributed exclusively to the owners of Patek Philippe watches and expresses a unique philosophy. It was conceived to explore all the aspects of excellence, through brilliant images and captivating stories. It presents Patek Philippe timepieces and discusses subjects of horological interest as well as a great variety of artistic and cultural themes and reflections on unusual lifestyles and trends. A prestigious ambassador for the Geneva company and winner of several awards, it is a standing invitation to explore beauty and timelessness. Since 1996 it has been published twice yearly, worldwide, in seven languages.
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H e r i tag e To acquire a Patek Philippe is to become the custodian of an artistic and scientific tradition that has been handed down with care and will continue to inspire remarkable creations. It is your entry into the world of a family company where, from father to son, each generation is dedicated to perpetuating a unique heritage and to giving fresh stimulus to the values and know-how that have built the unparalleled reputation of “the finest watches in the world”. To acquire a Patek Philippe is also to welcome into your family an object of great value, designed to last and accompany successive generations. It signifies that you are “starting your own tradition”, by creating a bridge between the past and future and passing down to those who are dear to you the embodiment of ancestral knowledge. A p o w e r f u l m e s s a g e — The international advertising campaign, “Generations”, was launched in 1996 and innovative by its dynamic, forward-looking message to “Begin your own tradition”. Its insightful visuals by pre-eminent photographers, capturing moments of the close relationship between father and son or mother and daughter, also reflect the special emotion that a Patek Philippe watch inspires in its owner – the desire to pass on to those held dearest an object that embodies excellence. “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” A promise of perfection, reliability and continuity.
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1 7 0 y e a r s o f c o n s ta n t i n n o vat i o n
1927 First chronograph wristwatches with or without split-seconds (in regular production) . 4
Patent : double chronograph .
1851 The Great Exhibition, London . The smallest timepiece in the world . 1
1 .5 .1839
3
Founding of Patek, Czapek & Cie .
5
“Duke of Regla” complicated pocket watch .
1932
Patek Philippe creates the first Swiss wristwatch .
First ladies’ complicated wristwatch .
Brothers Jean and Charles Stern buy the Patek Philippe company . Birth of the first Calatrava, Reference 96 .
7
4
5
2
1927 The “Packard” astronomical watch .
1916
3
7
1909
1868
1
2
1902
6
1844
1881
1922-1923
1933
Antoine Norbert de Patek meets Jean-Adrien Philippe in Paris . Creation of the first timepiece with a keyless winding and setting system .
Patent : precision regulator .
First split-seconds chronograph wristwatch (unique watch) .
The “Graves” supercomplicated pocket watch, which remained the world’s most complicated timepiece until the launch of the Caliber 89 in 1989 .
1845 Pocket watch with minute repeater . Patent : stem winding and setting system .
1889 Patent : perpetual calendar mechanism for pocket watches .
6
1925 First perpetual calendar wristwatch (unique watch) .
1941 Perpetual calendar wristwatches (in regular production) .
1944 First prize in the first Geneva Observatory competition .
1996
8
Patent : Annual Calendar mechanism . Patek Philippe moves into the new workshops in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva .
1 9 4 9 /1951 Patent : Gyromax balance .
1 9 5 3 /1956 Patent : self-winding mechanisms .
10
1956 First all-electronic clock . 9
1 9 5 9 /1962 Patents : time-zone watches .
1976
1998
Launch of the Nautilus collection .
Patent : state-of-winding indicator .
1977
1999
Patent : caliber 240 .
Patent : World Time .
1985
1999
Patent : date-of-Easter mechanism .
Launch of the Twenty~4 collection .
9
8
10
13
11
12
1962
1986
Patek Philippe sets a new precision record in the Geneva Observatory competition .
Patent : secular perpetual calendar with retrograde indicator .
1968 Launch of the Golden Ellipse collection .
11
1989 Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary . Caliber 89 .
1991 Patent : instant date change .
1993 Launch of the Gondolo collection .
2005 The thinnest split-seconds chronograph wristwatch ever made, Reference 5959 . 14
2 0 0 5 /2 0 0 6 / 2008 Patek Philippe Advanced Research, References 5250, 5350 and 5450 .
14
15
12
2000 Star Caliber 2000 .
13
2001 Sky Moon Tourbillon .
2003 10 Day Tourbillon .
15
2006 The Annual Calendar chronograph, Reference 5960 .
2008 Instantaneous perpetual calendar with minute repeater and tourbillon, Reference 5207 .
Chapter III
T h e c a l i b e rs
T
rue to the spirit of the traditional art of watchmaking, Patek Philippe has always insisted that the quality of the movement must come
first. It is one of the very few authentic manufactures – a French term denoting a company able to build its own movements. It brings to its demanding approach a rare combination of ancestral know-how, advanced research, leading-edge technology and powerful technical resources. From simple movements indicating the hours and minutes, to the grand complications ; from the round or rectangular calibers, to the skeleton or ultra-thin calibers, the company offers a rich choice, designed to respond to every taste and need. There are 20 basic calibers in regular production, including 14 for wristwatches in 40 versions, ranging from those with a small seconds dial to others with 12 complications ; and six for pocket watches, also con-
figured in numerous different ways, each with its own additional functions.
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the calibers
240
Front
240-240 PS
240 PS C
Back
240 PS IRM CLU
240 Q
240 SQU
240 HU
240 LU CL
324 S QA LU 24H
324 S IRM QA LU
324 SQR
324 S QA LU
324
Front
324 S IRM QA LU SPIROMAx
The calibers are shown actual size
324 S C
Back
324 S IRM QA LU PULSOMAx
16-250
Front
16-250
Back
16-250 PS LU
27-525
Front
CHR 27-525 PS
25-21
Front
Back
25-21 REC 25-21 REC PS
215
Front
215 – 215 PS
Back e 23
Back
215 PS FUS 24H
E 23 S C
(quartz)
e 19
caractĂŠrIstIques des calIbres
1
The first part defines the basic features : ch chr e r to
Chronograph Split-seconds chronograph Electronic (quartz) Minute repeater Tourbillon
2
The second part indicates the diameter (in millimeters or in lignes) and/or the height (range)
3
The third part defines the secondary features/ additional functions and indications :
c cl fus hu Irm lu Ps q qa qI qr rec s sId squ 24h 10j
Calendar Sky chart Time zone World time Power reserve indicator Moon phase Small seconds Perpetual calendar Annual Calendar Instantaneous Annual Calendar Perpetual calendar with retrograde date Rectangular Sweep seconds Sidereal time Skeleton 24 hour indicator 10 day power reserve
E 19 C
(quartz)
e 15
E 15
(quartz)
r to
Front
28-520
Back
R TO 27 PS
R TO 27 PS QR
R TO 27 QR SID LU CL
Front
R TO 27 PS QI
to 28-20
Front
TO 28-20 REC 10J PS IRM
CH 28 – 520 IRM QA 24H
Back
CH 28 – 520 C
r 27
Back
Back
Front
Back
R 27 PS QR
R 27 Q
R 27 PS QA
R 27 PS QR LU
R 27 PS
27-70
Front
CH 27-70
Base movement “Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe.
CH 27 – 70 Q – CHR 27 – 70 Q
CHR 27 – 70 Q
Chapter IV
L a d i e s’ watc h e s
4 9 1 0 /1 0 A
146
4937 R
introduction
m
any a strong-minded, powerful woman, including Queen Victoria,
has succumbed to the aesthetic and
technical beauty of a Patek Philippe. Was it the desire to possess an exclusive creation ? Or to satisfy a taste for exceptional beauty ? Or a refusal to compromise on reliability and accuracy ? The watches crafted in the Geneva firm’s workshops since 1839 had all the qualities required to meet her expectations . Today that standard of excellence is recognised worldwide and the secret behind it is simply expressed : only the best will do . Select the finest raw materials, bring a rare degree of skill and knowledge to each task and innovate constantly in terms of technology and aesthetics while cherishing the great artisanal traditions . Patek Philippe’s ladies’ watches are never simply jewels that tell the time ; they are horological instruments of exceptional quality .
147
Now as always, their unique aesthetic appeal exercises a powerful emotional attraction . The models are timeless and often become great classics the moment they appear . Each one owes its legendary distinction to the respect that went into its making ; respect for the woman who will honor this creation by wearing it . As you examine the exquisite details of finish that make your Patek Philippe a truly precious possession, you will feel a thrill of recognition, as at the beginning of a love affair . Indeed, that is what your relationship will be . And in view of the longevity of the firm’s creations, there is every reason to expect it to last .
4 910/11 R
twenty~4® f o r t h e t w e n t y- f o u r h o u r s o f a w o m a n ’ s l I f e
4910/11 R
c
reated ten years ago, the Twenty 4® is today’s ~ epitome of timeless feminine elegance.
The Twenty 4® was designed for the ~ stylish, modern woman and conceived to fit in with every moment of her life. It is the perfect complement to her fashionable daywear and most elegant eveningwear. The delicately curved silhouette of the case follows the contours of her wrist smoothly and comfortably. In steel or gold, each model radiates its own blend of charm and sophistication, simplicity and originality, making it an asset in any situation. Which watch will your Twenty 4® be in the next 24 hours ? The one that ~ you dream of wearing, with jeans or a formal evening gown, knowing that its natural air of distinction will adapt to your every mood.
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s at I n s t r a P
4910
4911
4920
4 9 0 8 /2 0 0
4 9 1 0/2 0
4 9 1 0/ 1 0
4908/11
4 9 07/ 1
4 9 1 0/ 1 1
4 9 0 9/ 5 0
4908/101
4 9 1 0/ 5 2
4 9 1 0/ 5 1
4 9 1 0/4 8
4914
4 9 1 0/4 9
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
haute joaIllerIe
L a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
152
In 2009, the Twenty 4® celebrated ~ ten triumphant years as one of the great classics of watch design. It marked the occasion by adding to its assets the noble beauty of yellow gold without diamonds, but with two new, charismatic dial shades : deep grey “Night Glow” and golden brown “Autumn Gold”.
4907/ 1 J
153
275.9 7 4 8 / 1 R
4908/11 R
287.9 7 4 8 / 1 R
For the woman with an innate sense of harmony, Patek Philippe has created a collection of Twenty 4速 ~ jewelry, whose fluid design echoes that of the watch. The earrings are in 18-karat white gold or rose gold set with 60 diamonds and the matching ring is adorned with 54 diamonds. All the brilliant-cut stones are of flawless Top Wesselton quality.
4910/ 10 A
4910/ 10 A
155
4910/10Â A
The Twenty 4ÂŽ is available in two sizes, in the three shades of gold and in steel, with ~ a sophisticated choice of color-coordinated dials. Recognized from birth as the epitome of elegance, it always features a crown set with an onyx or a diamond solitaire.
L a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – T w e n t y ~ 4 ®
156
2 8 7 .9 7 4 8 / 1 G
275. 9748/ 1 G
157
4908/200 G
4910/20 G
275. 9745/1 G
2 8 7 .9 746/ 1 G
Unique in the Patek Philippe collection, Reference 4910/20 in white gold is set with princesscut diamonds, each a perfect square with 74 facets. This style of cutting, invented less than fifty years ago, gives the square stone exceptional brilliance.
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t w e n t y ~ 4 ®
158
4920 G
4920 R
159
4910 R
t w e n t y ~ 4 ® w I t h s at I n s t r a P 4 911 G
4920 R
The mirror-polished bracelet of the Twenty~4® was designed to adapt perfectly to a woman’s wrist, and is superbly smooth and comfortable . The model on a satin strap offers a choice of black, charcoal gray, pearl gray, chocolate or vanilla satin, allowing for a variety of subtle color combinations with the case . The satin Twenty~4® is available with the stepped sides of the case paved with diamonds or, in the Haute Joaillerie version, with the watch entirely paved with diamonds or baguette diamonds .
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t w e n t y ~ 4 ®
160
twenty~4® haute joaIllerIe
Entirely set with diamonds or adorned with a sparkling geometric pattern, the Twenty 4® reveals ~ the jeweler’s brilliance. Each Twenty~4® Haute Joaillerie watch is born of an extraordinary combination of skills . The first jeweler to participate is the earth, whose depths have produced a stone of perfect purity . Next is the lapidary, who cuts and facets the rough material to release all its fire . The designer then visualizes how to position the diamond so that its radiance will sculpt the contours of the watch, highlighting the design and revealing its hidden beauties . Last to contribute is the gem-setter, charged with the delicate mission of setting the diamond into the gold – or sometimes mother-of-pearl – so that each enhances the other . The splendor of the Haute Joaillerie watches offers these artisans a treasured opportunity to deploy all their talent and creativity .
As a work of Haute Joaillerie, the Twenty 4® is entrusted exclusively ~ to the most experienced gem setters, whose skill ensures the finesse that such a creation demands.
4910/48 G
4914 G
161
4910/49 G
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t w e n t y ~ 4 ®
162
4910/52 G
163
The Twenty 4Ž watch and its ~ matching earrings and ring have been set with diamonds using a very unusual technique called “random setting�. Each piece is one of a kind, because the diamonds that adorn it are of varying sizes and are placed at random. The setting itself is invisible and the finished piece has an incomparable brilliance.
275. 9749/1 G
287. 9749/1 G
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t w e n t y ~ 4 ®
164
4908/101 G
4910/ 51 G
275. 1/1. 1, 287. 1/1. 1 G
Right-hand page : Having become the symbol of refinement in a ladies’ watch, the Twenty 4® is now compet~ ing with the mens’ models in a field that was formerly their exclusive preserve : mechanical movements. The technical perfection of manually wound caliber 16-250 has met its match in the timeless elegance of this model, which has retained all its aesthetic qualities.
165
4 9 0 9 /5 0 G
4897 R
C a l at r ava Refinement pure and simple
T
he Calatrava, Patek Philippe’s signature timepiece, has symbolized the perfect round wristwatch since 1932. Its simplicity and
refinement, qualities dear to the elegant woman, are expressed in a prestigious range of ladies’ mechanical watches whose appeal is timeless. Dressed for elegant evenings, in rose gold adorned with a circle of diamonds ; or for sparkling days in the city, in white gold with a silvery gray guilloched center and mother-of-pearl surround. Each model is an exclusive jewel, inside and out, dedicated to enduring feminine style.
169
4959
4958
4958/1
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
moon Phase and
c a l at r ava
4897
7 1 1 9/ 1
7119
small seconds
489 7 R
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – c a l at r ava
170
7119 G
7119 J
Right-hand page : to seal a vow or celebrate a wedding anniversary, the ladies’ Calatrava Reference 7119 now forms a dream couple with the classic men’s Calatrava with a hobnail bezel, Reference 5119.
275. 6/1 J
171
7119, 5119 G
L a d i e s ’ w a t c h e s – C a l a t r a v a
172
173
7119/1 J
7119/1 G
275. 7/1 G
The classic refinement of the ladies’ Calatrava watches is also a result of the care devoted to their mechanical movements. Patek Philippe has set its own stringent quality criteria, unequaled elsewhere in the industry. Through the numerous operations lavished upon the movement’s components – deburring, satin-finishing of steel parts flanks, chamfering, circular graining – the company’s craftsmen pay tribute to the discernment of women for whom external beauty is not enough. While some of these traditional hand-finishing techniques have a decorative purpose, others play an important role in the long-term performance of the movement.
215 P S
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – c a l at r ava
174
4958 G
moon Phase and small seconds P o e t ry I n m o t I o n
Classic styling and a poetic theme for Patek Philippe’s smallest complicated movement. Women are discovering the fascination of the complicated wristwatch, such as the Patek Philippe Reference 4958 with moon phase . The attraction of the night star is reflected in the beauty of the round, diamondset case and a dial adorned with a silvery, guilloched center circled by diamond hour markers on a mother-of-pearl surround . The moon’s stately progression is depicted with astonishing precision . It remains accurate for 122 years, and then only has to be corrected by one day . The poetic scene thus bears witness to the performance of the workshops’ smallest complicated mechanical movement . This model is also available without the moon phase (Reference 4959) .
4958 J
4958 G
175
4959 J
4 9 5 8 /1 G
4958/1 J
4 973 G
Gondolo An aesthetic ideal
P
atek Philippe salutes eternal feminine beauty and elegance with the Gondolo collection, inspired by the Art Deco style and reinterpreted
in a contemporary mood. After more than half a century, the creative daring of the Art Deco period continues to fascinate designers. Objects inspired by the iconoclastic, geometric forms of the 1920s and 1930s have inherited undeniable powers of seduction. Turning its back on short-lived trends, the ladies’ Gondolo collection defines a modern style characterized by unique designs with strong personalities.
179
4 9 93
4991
4992
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
4973
4980 4972/1
4972
4981
4982
gondolo gemma
g o n d o l o s e r ata
4991 R
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – g o n d o l o
180
4992 G
Reference 4991’s most precious gem is for your eyes only. It is the manually wound mechanical movement, revealing the delicacy of its decoration through a sapphire crystal window in the case back. All 101 components of the caliber 16-250 movement have undergone numerous hand-finishing operations and exhaustive controls before being deemed worthy of a ladies’ wrist.
4993 G
181
the gondolo gemma fa c e t e d l I k e a d I a m o n d 4982 G
With its stunning case design and faceted sapphire crystal the Gondolo Gemma was inspired by a 1930s model. The oblong case with its faceted sapphire crystal refracts the light, bathing the wrist in rainbow colors . The Gondolo Gemma is fitted with a quartz or manually wound mechanical movement and offers a choice of models, either unadorned to play up its pure lines or enriched with diamonds . But sparkling or sleek, this modern-retro timepiece fascinates . The original placing of the hour markers and the loving caress of the cambered case are complemented by a quality of finish exclusive to Patek Philippe’s creations .
4981 R
4980 G
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – g o n d o l o
182
g o n d o l o s e r ata
Feminine curves and a sophisticated air for the definitive evening watch. It sparkles like the Hollywood stars of the 1940s . In striking contrast to the geometric restraint of the Gondolo Gemma, the Gondolo Serata adopts the curves of a historical Patek Philippe model whose undulating shape suggests a silhouette in a diamond sheath .
4 9 7 2 /1 G
The rectangular mother-of-pearl dial indicates the hours with twelve guilloched sunburst rays superbly executed in a shimmering wave pattern . This elegant creation is worn with a satin strap in midnight blue, or a bracelet of fine gold links decorated with an exclusive satin effect . The Art Deco period made inspired use of precious materials and meticulous handcraftsmanship. The effect, here, of the “flinqué” guilloched waves on a dial of Balinese mother of pearl is worthy of the exquisite marquetry of that time. Balinese mother of pearl is sought after for its exceptional whiteness and evenness of tone. To adapt to the curvature of the dial, the layer of mother of pearl obtained from the shell must be at least 2 mm thick. The rarity of the material and the complexity of the creative process make each dial a unique work of art.
4972 G
183
4973 G
7 010/1 G
Active elegance Looking your casual best
A
woman should not have to sacrifice her usual standards of elegance just because she is relaxing or enjoying leisure activities. Her
desire to feel attractive at all times holds few secrets
for Patek Philippe, who have been dressing the feminine wrist ever since the first wristwatch was invented. Whether she chooses the sporty elegance of the Nautilus, in the ladies’ version inspired by the iconic men’s model, and available today in a range of white or rose gold models, or the Aquanaut Luce, the essence of today’s sophisticated casual style, her watch will be remarkable above all for its technical and aesthetic refinement. Patek Philippe’s sports watches for women are precious assets, to be exercised every day.
187
70 1 1 / 1
70 1 0/ 1 5 0 87/ 1
4 961
5 0 69
5 0 67
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
aquanaut
nautIlus
701 0 /1 G
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – a c t i v e e l e g a n c e
188
nautilus e v e ry d ay e l e g a n c e
7010/1 R
Sporty and sculptural, the men’s watch that women choose – for themselves. A great couturier once had the brilliant idea of dressing women in tuxedos ; Patek Philippe is now pleased to offer them the relaxed charm of the Nautilus, which was its first sports watch for men . The original case of the men’s Nautilus first appeared in 1976 and in 2006 it celebrated thirty years of success with the launch of new masculine models . Now it has inspired a complete collection for women . The 2009 introduction is timely, in view of the pressing demand from elegant, active women, some of whom have been wearing the men’s watch . The ladies’ Nautilus retains from the iconic original its robust performance and the strong personality that surprised conservative opinion in the 1970s .
7011/1 R
7010/1 R
275. 9750/1 R
7 0 1 1 /1 R
L a d i e s ’ w a t c h e s – A c t i v e e l e g a n c e – N a u t i l u s
190
7010/1 G
191
7011/1 G
7 0 1 0 /1 G
7011/1 G
275. 9751/ 1 G
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – a c t i v e e l e g a n c e
192
aquanaut luce ava n t- g a r d e s P o r t I n g s t y l e
Casual urban elegance epitomized in black and white. Is it its softened octagonal shape, its natural elegance or its chic confidence ? Something about the Aquanaut recalls the famous Nautilus, twenty-one years older and its source of inspiration . With the Aquanaut Luce, the sports watch takes on a new enduring youthfulness . The 38 mm steel bezel frames an intriguing structured dial whose exclusive pattern of embossed grooves changes subtly according to the light . The Aquanaut Luce is worn on a steel bracelet or a “Tropical” composite strap . It is available in two sizes and will be an asset in any situation – its superb finish reflects the Patek Philippe workshops’ meticulous respect for the traditional rules of their art . Naturally, this level of care also applies to the movement, whether quartz or a mechanical self-winding calibre .
5087/1 A
193
5087/1 A
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – a c t i v e e l e g a n c e – a q u a n a u t l u c e
194
5067 A , 2 7 5 .2 / 1 G
195
4961 A
queen of lIght
5067 A
4961 A
The Aquanaut Luce owes its impact to its striking design and its air of casual elegance spiced with daring . To add even more sparkle to its style, even at a depth of 60 metres, the Aquanaut Luce in steel, ideal for urban activities, is set with 46 diamonds, while the Haute Joaillerie version in white gold is paved with 474 flawless Top Wesselton stones .
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – a c t i v e e l e g a n c e – a q u a n a u t l u c e
196
5069 G
When a watch is equipped with the beautiful self-winding, mechanical caliber 324 SC movement with a sweep seconds hand, it naturally demands a setting worthy of its rank. The Aquanaut Luce Reference 5069 is adorned with 474 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds to illuminate the white gold of its case and lugs.
197
5069, 275. 3/1 G
4 934 R
T h e c o m p l i c at e d w at c h e s Intelligent beauty
W
omen like complicated watches. Or at least, that is the message conveyed by their increasing interest in mechanical
timepieces that do more than display the hours and minutes. And even though it was an aristocratic lady – who was clearly ahead of her time – that commis-
sioned the first Patek Philippe complicated watch in the nineteenth century, women seeking a timepiece with additional functions have long had to content themselves with wearing a man’s watch. Technical sophistication and feminine elegance combine in the ladies’ complicated collection, which houses models with Annual Calendar, moon phases or dual time zones. Year after year, the collection is enriched with creations of great technical value, whose complexity is increased by the need to comply with rigorous aesthetic standards, to ensure comfort and flawless beauty.
201
4 93 7
4 93 6
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
4 93 4
annual calendar
t r av e l t I m e
4937 R
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s
202
4937 R
annual calendar e x q u I s I t e ly o r g a n I z e d
A timely blend of aesthetic refinement and technical sophistication.
4936 G
Much admired by women, the men’s Annual Calendar has acquired a decidedly elegant feminine counterpart . The ladies’ Annual Calendar displays the date, the day of the week and the month as well as the hours, minutes and seconds, on a magnificent dial in genuine white mother of pearl or black Tahitian mother of pearl, framed by a diamond-set bezel . At home in this sparkling setting, the moon proceeds majestically across a field of stars . But the Annual Calendar has other charms to reveal . Above all, it is also a watch of great inner beauty . Its mechanical selfwinding caliber 324 S QA LU 34-jewel movement comprises 328 meticulously hand-finished parts . Together they ensure that the calendar will run for a full year without correction . A sapphire crystal case back enables the owner to admire the details of the movement, decorated by hand in the grand traditional manner .
4937 G
The Annual Calendar adjusts automatically to months of 30 and 31 days. If it is worn daily it will require correction only once a year, at the end of February, the only month with fewer than 30 days.
203
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s – a n n u a l c a l e n d a r
204
4937 R
205
For its bezel entirely paved with 431 diamonds, the Annual Calendar Reference 4937 has a very distinctive setting. Diamonds of two different sizes are placed in two staggered circles. The Annual Calendar’s self-winding movement has a 21-karat gold winding rotor that is activated by the daily movements of your wrist. It will run down only if the watch remains unworn for more than 48 hours. Even then, an easy to make adjustments system will enable you to advance the calendar’s indications – and when setting the time, you will enjoy the contact between your fingertips and the diamonds that circle the crown.
l a d i e s ’ w at c h e s – t h e c o M p l i c at e d w at c h e s
206
t r av e l t i M e h o m e a w ay f r o m h o m e
Beautifully easy to read, a watch that allows you to cross the world without losing sight of home. Or vice versa. Surely every woman has longed, at some time, to be in two places at once . And today, whether she herself crosses time zones regularly or she wishes to be on the same time as someone important to her on the other side of the world, the Travel Time grants her the gift of ubiquity, and makes it simple . No need to manipulate the bezel or perform complicated calculations . The watch has two hour hands : a skeleton hand that remains on home time and a solid hand to be set to the time in another zone . The minute hand is common to both . To avoid any confusion, the seconds are displayed on a subsidiary dial and a 24 hour subsidiary dial shows whether it is night or day in the home time zone . A delight to consult, the dial of the Travel Time positions the two subsidiary dials one above the other, in the manner in which some maps display the northern and southern hemispheres . The two dials and the outer ring with its large Roman numerals stand out crisp and clear on a mother-of-pearl dial – tinted blue/gray for the white gold model and brown for the warmth of the rose gold model . The bezel is set with 48 diamonds, emphasizing the feminine elegance of this complicated timepiece .
4934 G
When you are not travelling the two hour hands are perfectly superimposed and act as one.
4934 R
captions
Pa g e S 4- 5
PageS 18- 19
Page 23
Detail of the rotor of a self-winding movement, engraved with the Calatrava Cross.
– Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H. Day, date and month in apertures. Moon phases and am/ pm indicators. Center sweep second hand. 2-tone silvery gray dial, blue transfer-printed. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 38 mm.
– Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Power reserve indication. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 62 diamonds ( 0.85 ct). Navy ~ blue lacquered dial, gold applied hour markers and numerals. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case diameter : 39 mm.
Men Pa g e S 10- 11 5 146/ 1 – Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Power reserve indication. Center sweep second hand. Yellow gold dial : cream, white gold : cream or slate gray. Gold applied hour markers and numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 39 mm.
Pa g e S 12- 13 5 159 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QR. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Opaline-white dial, hand-guilloched center. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back protected by a hinged dust cover. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 38 mm. Pa g e 14
Patek Philippe Salons, Geneva. Reference 5101, 10 Day Tourbillon.
5396
5147
PageS 24- 25
PageS 20- 21 5146 – Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Power reserve indicator. Center sweep second hand. Yellow gold dial : cream or slate gray, rose gold : cream, white gold : cream or slate gray, platinum : sunburst ebony. Gold applied hour markers and numerals. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white, rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 39 mm. 5146/1 – Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Power reserve indication. Center sweep second hand. Yellow gold dial : cream, white gold : cream or slate gray. Gold applied hour markers and numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 39 mm.
5135 – Gondolo Calendario. Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H. Day, date, month in apertures. Moon phases and am/pm indicators. Center sweep second hand. Yellow and rose gold dials : 2-tone silvery gray, white gold : 2-tone silvery gray or slate gray, gold applied hour markers and numerals. Platinum : anthracite and silverygray dial, gold applied and diamond hour markers. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white, rose gold or platinum. Case dimensions : 38 × 51 mm.
PageS 26- 27
Haute Horlogerie workshop. Working on a caliber R27 PS QR movement. 5139 – Ultra-thin mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240 Q. Perpetual calendar : day, date, month, leap year by hands. Moon phases
209
captions
210
and am/pm indicators. Hobnail patterned bezel. Opaline-white dial, gold applied hour markers. Fold-over clasp. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case diameter : 38 mm.
Gold applied hour markers. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold, or platinum. Case diameter : 39.5 mm.
Page S 2 8 -2 9
5131 – World Time. Mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240 HU. Indication of 24 time zones. Cloisonné enamel dial. Yellow gold : Europe/ Americas, white gold : Europe/Asia. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 39,5 mm.
– Ultra-thin mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240 Q. Perpetual calendar : day, date, month, leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indicators. Opaline-white dial, gold applied hour markers. Fold-over clasp. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 37 mm. 5140
Page S 3 0 -3 1 5 1 5 9 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QR. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Opaline-white dial, hand-guilloched center. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back protected by a hinged dust cover. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 38 mm.
Page S 3 2 -3 3
– World Time. Mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240 HU. Indication of 24 time zones. White and rose gold dial : guilloched silvery sunburst dial, platinum : blue center. 5130
counter. Am/pm indicator. Power reserve indicator and date aperture.
Illustration : patent No. 340 191, World Time mechanism, 1959. Patek Philippe library.
Pa g e S 34- 35
Illustration : technical drawing, case of a 13 lignes chronograph with positions and functions of the push pieces. 1950. R&D plans, Patek Philippe. Haute Horlogerie workshop. Assembling the movement, Reference 5959 split seconds chronograph. Caliber CHR 27-525 PS. Pa g e S 36- 37 5960 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H. Annual Calendar. Chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour mono-counter at 6 o’clock. Day, date, and month in apertures. Power reserve and day/night display. Rose gold dial : 2-tone silvery gray, platinum : anthracite. Gold applied hour markers. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 40.5 mm.
Illustration : exploded view, movement CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H. Details : push pieces for month, date and day, 60-minute and 12-hour mono-
PageS 38- 39 5959 – Ultra-thin mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber CHR 27-525 PS. Split seconds chronograph, 60-minute counter. Seconds sub-dial. Black or white lacquered dial. Sapphire crystal case back. Platinum. Case diameter : 33.2 mm.
Haute Horlogerie workshop. Working on components and dial. PageS 40- 41 5004 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber CHR 27-70 Q. Split seconds chronograph, 30-minute counter. Perpetual calendar : day and month in apertures, date and leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indicators. Seconds sub-dial. Opaline-white dial, gold applied numerals. Fold-over clasp. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white, rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 36.7 mm. Base of the chronograph movement “Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe.
Background : caliber CHR 27-70 Q. PageS 42- 43 5970 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber CH 27-70 Q. Chronograph with 30-minute counter. Perpetual calendar : day and month in
apertures, date and leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indicators. Seconds sub-dial. Black dial, gold applied hour markers. Fold-over clasp. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Platinum. Case diameter : 40 mm. Base of the chronograph movement “Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe. 5 971 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber CH 27-70 Q. Chronograph with 30-minute counter. Perpetual calendar : day and month in apertures, date and leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indicators. Seconds sub-dial. Case set with 36 baguette diamonds ( 3.88 ct). Buckle set ~ with 6 baguette diamonds ( 0.3 ct). ~ Black dial, diamond hour markers. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Platinum. Case diameter : 40 mm. Base of the chronograph movement “Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe.
Pa g e S 44- 45
Background : caliber CH 27-70. 5 070 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber CH 27-70. Chronograph with a 30-minute elapsed time counter. Seconds sub-dial. “Blue metallic” sunburst dial, gold applied numerals. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Platinum. Case diameter : 42 mm. Base of the chronograph movement
“Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe.
PageS 48- 49
Exploded view, movement R TO 27 QR SID LU CL of Reference 5002, the Sky Moon Tourbillon. PageS 50- 51
PageS 46- 47 5002 – Sky Moon Tourbillon. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber R TO 27 QR SID LU CL. Minute repeater with tourbillon escapement. Chime with two “cathedral” gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Front side : perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Day, month, leap year by hands. Moon age. Crown at 4 o’clock : setting of the time and winding. Opaline-white dial with embossed Calatrava cross motif, gold applied numerals. 9 hands. Reverse side : sidereal time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon. Crown at 8 o’clock (24hour scale) : correction of sky/moon indications. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Yellow, white, rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 42.8 mm.
Illustrations : the stacked gear-trains of the Star Caliber 2000’s basic movement, bridge side. From “Star Caliber 2000”, Editions Scriptar, 2000. The “Graves” super-complicated pocket watch, commissioned from Patek Philippe in 1927 and delivered in 1933. It has over 900 parts and 24 complications, including Grand and Small strikes chiming on four gongs and an alarm on a fifth gong. Historical Archives, Inv. No. 8424.
5102 – Celestial. Mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240 LU CL. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon. Time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the moon. Crown at 2 o’clock : setting of the time and winding ; crown at 4 o’clock : correction of sky/moon indications. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Rose gold and platinum. Case diameter : 43.1 mm.
PageS 52- 53
Background : caliber TO 28-20 REC 10J PS IRM. 5101 – 10 Day Tourbillon. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber TO 28-20 REC 10J PS IRM. 10-day power reserve indicator. Tourbillon escapement. Seconds sub-dial. Two-tone silvery gold dial, gold applied numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Rose gold. Case dimensions : 29.6 × 51.7 mm.
Detail s : dial ; tourbillon. Despite weighing barely 0.3 grams, the tourbillon has 72 parts. Actual size : diameter 11 mm.
211
captions
212
Page S 5 4 -5 5
Illustrations : rating-certificate from the Geneva Observatory (1938), Historical Archives, Inv. No. 11 234 ; drawing of a tourbillon, circa end-19th century, Historical Archives, Inv. No. 811 893. – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber R TO 27 PS. Minute repeater with tourbillon escapement. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Seconds sub-dial. Authentic enamel dial, gold applied numerals. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Yellow, white, rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 33.3 mm.
3939H
Page S 5 6 -5 7
– Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber R 27 PS QA. Minute repeater. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Annual Calendar. Day, date, month in apertures. Seconds sub-dial. Silvery gray dial, gold applied hour markers. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Platinum. Case dimensions : 38 × 51 mm. 5033
Detail : caliber R 27 PS QA. 5 0 7 4 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber R 27 Q. Minute repeater. Chime with two “cathedral” gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Perpetual calendar : day, date, month,
leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indicators. Rose gold dial : white or black, platinum : black. Gold applied numerals. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 42 mm.
white, rose gold or platinum. Case dimensions : 36 × 46.4 mm.
Pa g e S 58- 59
Haute Horlogerie workshop. Casing up minute repeater Reference 5078. The gongs of Patek Philippe’s minute repeaters are made in the Haute Horlogerie workshop. Patek Philippe has always crafted its own gongs, whose tone is particularly rich and pure. 5078 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber R 27 PS. Minute repeater. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Seconds subdial. Authentic enamel dial or black lacquered dial. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Platinum. Case diameter : 38 mm. Pa g e S 60- 61
Haute Horlogerie workshop. Casing up Reference 5013, minute repeater and perpetual calendar with retrograde date. 5013 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber R 27 PS QR. Minute repeater. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Moon phases. Seconds subdial. Opaline-white or black dial, gold applied numerals. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Yellow,
PageS 62- 63 5207 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber R TO 27 PS QI. Minute repeater, tourbillon escapement. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Instantaneous perpetual calendar. Moon phases and day/night display. Seconds sub-dial. Day, date, month, leap year in apertures. Gold dial “honey gold”, gold applied hour markers. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Platinum. Case diameter : 41 mm. 5104 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber R 27 PS QR LU. Minute repeater. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Moon age. Seconds subdial. Day, month, leap year display by mobile index. Transparent dial. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Platinum. Case dimensions : 43 mm. PageS 64- 65 5016 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber R TO 27 PS QR. Minute repeater with tourbillon escapement. Chime with two gongs activated by a slide piece in the case. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures.
Moon phases. Seconds sub-dial. Opalinewhite or black dial, gold applied numerals. Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back. Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant). Yellow, white, rose gold or platinum. Case diameter : 36.8 mm. 5 016 – photographed in the Patek Philippe Salons, Geneva. Pa g e 66 5 296 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. 2-tone silvery gray dial blue transfer-printed or opalinewhite dial with applied hour markers. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 38 mm. Pa g e S 70- 71
– these two men’s and ladies’ Calatrava models are available as a pair.
5 119 & 7119
– Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds subdial. Hobnail patterned bezel. White lacquered dial. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white or rose gold. Case diameter : 36 mm. 5 119
ant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 35 mm. 5120 – Ultra-thin mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240. Hobnail patterned bezel. White lacquered dial. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 35 mm. 5116 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds subdial. Hobnail patterned bezel. Authentic enamel dial. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case diameter : 36 mm. 9719/1 – Key ring . Yellow gold. Available with white agate center (9719/2).
– Cuff links. Calatrava Cross decoration. Yellow, white or rose gold.
205. 9089
5153 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Opaline-white dial, hand-guilloched . Gold applied hour markers. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back protected by a hinged dust cover. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow gold. Case diameter : 38 mm. PageS 74- 75
Pa g e S 72- 73
– Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds subdial. Yellow gold dial : opaline-white, white and rose gold : silvery gray, platinum : 2-tone silvery gray. Gold applied hour markers (gold case). Gold applied numerals (platinum). Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white, rose or platinum. Case diameter : 37 mm.
5 120/ 1 – Ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240. Hobnail patterned bezel. Silvery gray dial, gold applied hour markers. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resist-
5296 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. 2-tone silvery gray dial blue transfer-printed or opalinewhite dial with applied hour markers.
Illustration : the first Calatrava models measured 31 mm in diameter – small for a man’s wristwatch by today’s standards. A typical example is Reference 96 SC, which occupies a place of honor in the Patek Philippe Museum’s permanent collection.
5196
Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 38 mm. – Cuff links. Calatrava Cross decoration. Yellow, white or rose gold.
205. 9083
PageS 76- 77 5196 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds subdial. Yellow gold dial : opaline-white, white and rose gold : silvery gray, platinum : 2-tone silvery gray. Gold applied hour markers (gold case). Gold applied numerals (platinum). Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white, rose or platinum. Case diameter : 37 mm. 6000 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 240 PS C. Seconds sub-dial. Anthracite and silvery gray dial. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case diameter : 37 mm.
Details : seconds sub-dial ; sapphire crystal case back ; fold-over clasp, Reference 9650. PageS 78- 79 5118 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 52 baguette diamonds ( 2.27 ct) and with ~ one diamond ( 0.02 ct). Buckle set with ~ 16 baguette diamonds ( 0.44 ct). Black ~ or white lacquered dial, diamond hour markers. Sapphire crystal case back. Screw-down crown. Water resistant to 30 m. Platinum. Case diameter : 37 mm.
213
captions
214
5 1 0 8 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 52 diamonds ( 1.05 ct). Rose gold ~ dial : white lacquered, white gold : black or white lacquered. Diamond hour markers. Sapphire crystal case back. Screw-down crown. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 37 mm. 9 1 0 8 – Cuff links. Engraved onyx center. White gold set with 60 diamonds ( 0.78 ct). ~ Page S 8 0 -8 1
– Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 25-21 REC. Handguilloched gold dial. Cambered sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Rose gold or platinum. Case dimensions : 32 × 42 mm. 5098
Page S 8 2 -8 3 5 1 2 4 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 25-21 REC PS. Seconds sub-dial. Yellow gold dial : opaline-white, white gold : «vintage rose» color, gold applied hour markers and numerals. Cambered sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case dimensions : 33.4 × 43 mm. Page S 8 4 -8 5
– Ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240. Yellow gold dial : blue sunburst, white gold : anthracite sunburst, rose gold : chocolate brown sunburst. Gold applied hour markers. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white or rose gold. Case dimensions : 31.1 × 35.6 mm.
3738/100
– Cuff links. 18K gold center. Yellow, white or rose gold. 9102
5738 – Ultra-thin mechanical selfwinding movement. Caliber 240. Blue sunburst dial, gold applied hour markers. Water resistant to 30 m. Platinum. Case dimensions : 34.5 × 39.5 mm.
with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm.
Pa g e S 86- 87
5712/1 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. Moon phases, date by hand and power reserve indicator. Seconds sub-dial. Black-blue dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screwdown crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 60 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm.
9102 – Cuff links. 18K gold center. Yellow, white or rose gold.
– Key ring. Blue-colored 18K gold center. Yellow or white gold. 9602
– Ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240. Yellow gold dial : blue sunburst, white gold : anthracite sunburst, rose gold : chocolate brown sunburst. Gold applied hour markers. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white or rose gold. Case dimensions : 31.1 × 35.6 mm. 3738/ 100
PageS 94- 95 5712 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. Moon phases, date by hand and power reserve indication. Seconds sub-dial. Rose gold dial : black-brown, white gold : slate gray. Gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm.
Detail of the buckle. Pa g e 88
– Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Black-blue dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 5711/ 1
Pa g e S 92- 93 5712 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. Moon phases, date by hand and power reserve indication. Seconds sub-dial. Rose gold dial : black-brown, white gold : slate gray. Gold applied hour markers
9057 – Cuff links. Sapphire crystal. Yellow, white or rose gold. 5711 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Yellow gold dial : silvery gray, white gold : slate gray, rose gold : black-brown. Gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Fold-over clasp. Water resistant to 120 m. Yellow, white or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. PageS 96- 97 5711/1 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C.
Center sweep second hand. Black-blue dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 5 711 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Yellow gold dial : silvery gray, white gold : slate gray, rose gold : black-brown. Gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Fold-over clasp. Water resistant to 120 m. Yellow, white or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 9 057 – Cuff links. Yellow, white or rose gold.
Center sweep second hand. Case set with 48 diamonds ( 1.43 ct). Black-blue dial, ~ gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. White gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm.
225. 9724/1 – Money clip. Set with 16 baguette diamonds ( 1.03 ct). White or ~ rose gold.
9058 – Cuff links. White gold set with 64 diamonds ( 0.28 ct). ~ 5722 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. Moon phases, date by hand and power reserve indicator. Seconds sub-dial. Case set with 32 baguette diamonds ( 5.7 ct). ~ Black-blue dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screwdown crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 60 m. White gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm.
PageS 104- 105
PageS 102- 103
Pa g e S 98- 99 5 980/ 1 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber CH 28-520 C. Chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour mono-counter at 6 o’clock. Center sweep second hand (chronograph hand). Black-blue dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40.5 mm.
Illustration : technical drawing, Reference 5980/1. Pa g e S 100- 101 5 713/ 1 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C.
5719/1 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Fully set with 1675 diamonds ( 8.68 ct). Screw~ down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. White gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 5724 – Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. Moon phases, date by hand and power reserve indication. Seconds sub-dial. Case set with 44 baguette diamonds ( 7.4 ct). ~ Fold-over clasp with 6 baguette diamonds ( 0.8 ct). White gold dial : ~ black-blue, rose gold : brown. Gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm.
– Nautilus key ring. Set with 36 baguette diamonds ( 1.65 ct). ~ White or rose gold. 240. 9724/1
205. 9724/1 – Cuff links. Set with 32 baguette diamonds ( 2.06 ct). White or ~ rose gold.
5167 – Aquanaut extra large. Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Steel version dia : black embossed, rose gold : brown embossed. Gold applied numerals with luminescent coating. “Tropical” composite black (steel version) or brown (rose gold version) strap. Screw-down crown. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 5167/1 – Aquanaut extra large. Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Embossed black dial, gold applied numerals with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. PageS 106- 107 5167/1 – Aquanaut extra large. Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Embossed black dial, gold applied numerals with luminescent coating. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 5165 – Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Embossed black dial, gold applied numerals
215
captions
216
with luminescent coating. “Tropical” composite black strap. Screw-down crown. Sapphire crystal case back. Fold-over clasp. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 38 mm. 5 1 6 7 – Aquanaut extra large. Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Steel version dial : black embossed, rose gold : brown embossed. Gold applied numerals with luminescent coating. “Tropical” composite black (steel version) or brown (rose gold version) strap. Screw-down crown. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 40 mm. 5 1 6 7 / 1 – Detail of the double-security fold-over clasp ; the dial ; sapphire crystal case back and caliber 324 S C.
enameled open-face case. Yellow gold. Unique piece. Pa g e S 112- 113 1544 – Dôme table clock in cloisonné enamel. « Fashion Art Deco ». Caliber 33. Quartz. Unique piece.
ladies PageS 152- 153 Pa g e S 144- 145
– Twenty 4 Medium. ~ Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 36 diamonds ( 0.45 ct). ~ Dial “Eternal Gray”, “Forever Black” or “Timeless White”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with an onyx. Water resistant to 30 m. Stainless steel. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. 4910/ 10
Pa g e S 146- 147
Page S 1 0 8 -1 0 9
– Ultra-thin mechanical selfwinding skeleton movement. Caliber 240 SQU. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case diameter : 39 mm. 5180/1
4937 – Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 431 diamonds ( 2.79 ct). Crown ~ set with 14 diamonds ( 0.07 ct). Buckle ~ set with 27 diamonds ( 0.2 ct). White ~ mother-of-pearl dial, gold applied numerals (rose gold version). Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 37 mm. Pa g e 148 - 151
Page S 1 1 0 -1 1 1
–“Judith I” after Gustav Klimt. Pocket watch. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 1-17 LEP PS IRM. Seconds sub-dial. Power reserve indication. Engraved, 982/113
diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water resistant ~ to 30 m. Rose gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm.
– Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 34 diamonds ( 0.66 ct). Dial “Chocolate ~ Dream”, “Timeless White” or “Forever Black”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with one 4910/ 11
4907/1 – Twenty 4 Small. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Dial “Timeless White”, “Autumn Gold” or “Night Glow”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water resistant to ~ 30 m. Yellow gold. Case dimensions : 22 × 26.3 mm.
– Twenty 4 Small. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 34 diamonds ( 0.43 ct). Dial “Chocolate ~ Dream”, “Timeless White”or “Forever Black”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water resistant ~ to 30 m. Rose gold. Case dimensions : 22 × 26.3 mm. 4908/11
275. 9748/1 – Ring. 54 diamonds ( 0.47 ct). Rose or white gold. ~ 287. 9748/1 – Earrings. 60 diamonds ( 0.52 ct). Rose or white gold. ~
Pa g e S 154- 155
PageS 158- 159
– Twenty 4 Medium. ~ Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 36 diamonds ( 0.45 ct). ~ Dial “Eternal Gray”, “Forever Black” or “Timeless White”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with an onyx. Water resistant to 30 m. Stainless steel. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm.
– Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 34 diamonds ( 0.66 ct). White gold ~ dial : “Eternal Gray” or “Timeless White”, rose gold : “Chocolate Dream” or “Timeless White”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). ~ Delivered with black and charcoal gray satin straps (white gold) ; with two brown satin straps (rose gold, “Chocolate Brown” dial) or one “vanilla” and one black satin strap (rose gold, “Timeless White” dial). Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm.
4 910/ 10
Pa g e S 156- 157 2 87. 9748/ 1 – Earrings. 60 diamonds ( 0.52 ct). White or rose gold. ~ 2 75. 9748/ 1 – Ring. 54 diamonds ( 0.47 ct). White or rose gold. ~ 2 87. 9746/ 1 – Earrings. 40 princess cut diamonds and 296 diamonds ( 4.05 ct). White or rose gold. ~ 2 75. 9745/ 1 – Ring. 54 princess cut diamonds and 276 diamonds ( 6.85 ct). ~ White or rose gold.
– Twenty 4 Small. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 88 diamonds ( 0.71 ct). Dial “Eternal ~ Gray”, “Timeless White” or “Forever Black”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct.). Water resistant ~ to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 22 × 26.3 mm. 4 908/ 200
– Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 34 diamonds ( 0.19 ct) and 32 prin~ cess cut diamonds ( 0.92 ct). Dial ~ “Timeless White”, “Eternal Gray” or “Forever Black”. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water ~ resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. 4 910/ 20
4920
4911 – Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case and attachments set with 97 baguette diamonds ( 3.02 ct). Dial paved with ~ 72 baguette diamonds ( 1.61 ct). ~ Back set with 76 diamonds ( 0.15 ct). ~ Buckle set with 26 baguette diamonds ( 0.83 ct). Crown set with one dia~ mond ( 0.05 ct). Delivered with black ~ and charcoal gray satin straps. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. 4910 – Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case and back set with 166 diamonds ( 1.13 ct). Dial ~ “Pavé” set with 147 diamonds ( 0.78 ct). ~ Attachments set with 132 diamonds ( 0.74 ct). Buckle set with 26 diamonds ~ ( 0.14 ct). Crown set with one diamond ~ ( 0.05 ct). Delivered with two brown ~ satin straps (rose gold) or black and charcoal gray satin straps (white gold) .Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. PageS 160- 161
– Twenty 4 Medium. ~ Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case,
4910/48
dial and bracelet set with 499 diamonds ( 3.7 ct). Silvery sunburst dial, ~ diamond-set Roman numerals. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water ~ resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. 4914 – Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E15. Case, dial and attachments set with 169 diamonds ( 0.92 ct). Mother-of-pearl ~ and diamond paved dial. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water ~ resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm.
– Twenty 4 Medium. ~ Quartz movement. Caliber E15. Case, dial and bracelet set with 542 diamonds ( 2.95 ct). Mother-of-pearl ~ and diamond paved dial. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water ~ resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm.
4910/49
PageS 162- 163
– Twenty 4 Medium. ~ Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Fully set with diamonds, random setting. Each watch is unique. Model shown : 2457 diamonds ( 12.65 ct). Crown set ~ ~ with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water ~ resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. 4910/52
275. 9749/1 – Ring. Fully set with diamonds, random setting. 446 dia~ monds ( 2.6 ct). Each piece is unique. ~ White gold.
217
captions
218
2 8 7 .9 7 4 9 / 1 – Earrings. Fully set with diamonds, random setting. 682 dia~ monds ( 2.82 ct). Each piece is unique. ~ White gold.
and clasp set with 1128 diamonds ( 6.74 ct). Dial “Pavé diamant” set ~ with 147 diamonds ( 0.63 ct). Crown ~ set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). ~ Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Rose or white gold. Case dimensions : 22 × 26.3 mm. Pa g e S 166- 168
Page S 1 6 4 -1 6 5
– Twenty 4 Medium. Quartz ~ movement. Caliber E 15. Case and back set with 162 diamonds ( 0.57 ct) and ~ 32 princess cut diamonds ( 0.95 ct). ~ Bracelet and clasp set with 986 diamonds ( 7.84 ct). Dial “Eternal ~ Gray”, “Timeless White”, “Forever Black” or “Pavé diamant”. Crown set with one diamond ( 0.05 ct). Water ~ resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 25 × 30 mm. 4910/51
–Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 24 baguette diamonds ( 2.65 ct). Back set with 72 ~ diamonds ( 0.13 ct). Bracelet set with ~ 367 baguette diamonds ( 30.75 ct) and ~ additional 222 diamonds ( 0.97 ct). ~ Dial set with 39 baguette diamonds ( 1.75 ct). Crown set with one diamond ~ ( 0.05 ct). Total 36.3 ct. Water resist~ ~ ant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case dimensions : 24 × 28 mm. 4908/101
– Ring. 137 baguette diamonds ( 9.92 ct). White or rose gold. ~ 2 8 7 .1 / 1 .1 – Earrings. 114 baguette diamonds ( 11.62 ct). 86 diamonds ~ ( 0.26 ct). White or rose gold. ~ 4 9 0 9 / 5 0 – Twenty 4 Small. ~ Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 16-250. Case and back set with 192 diamonds ( 0.91 ct). Bracelet ~
4897 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215. Case set with 72 diamonds ( 0.47 ct). Guilloched brown ~ dial, powdered hour markers. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Rose gold. Case diameter : 33 mm. Pa g e S 170- 171 7119 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds sub-dial. Hobnail patterned bezel. White lacquered dial. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 31 mm. 275. 6/ 1 – Ring, Calatrava Cross decoration. Width 10 mm. Set with 24 diamonds ( 0.22 ct). Yellow or white gold. ~ 7119 & 5119 – These two men’s and ladies’ Calatrava models are available as a pair.
2 7 5 .1 / 1 .1
Pa g e S 172- 173
Caliber 215. 7119/ 1 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds sub-dial. Hobnail patterned bezel. White lacquered dial. Sapphire crystal case
back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 31 mm. 275. 7/1 – Ring, Calatrava Cross decoration. Width 13 mm. Set with 48 diamonds ( 0.36 ct). Yellow or white gold. ~ PageS 174- 175 4958 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 16-250 PS LU. Moon phases, seconds sub-dial. Case set with 66 diamonds ( 0.43 ct). Yellow gold ~ dial : guilloched silvery center and white mother-of-pearl surround ; white gold : guilloched silvery center and white mother-of-pearl surround or guilloched gray center and black mother-of-pearl surround. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 31 mm. 4958/1 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 16-250 PS LU. Moon phases, seconds sub-dial. Case set with 66 diamonds ( 0.43 ct). Yellow gold ~ dial : guilloched silvery center and white mother-of-pearl surround ; white gold : guilloched silvery center and white mother-of-pearl surround or guilloched gray center and black mother-of-pearl surround. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 31 mm. 4959 – Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS. Seconds sub-dial. Case set with 66 diamonds ( 0.43 ct). Dial with guilloched silvery ~ center and white mother-of-pearl surround. Diamond hour markers and gold applied numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow or white gold. Case diameter : 31 mm.
Pa g e 176
– Gondolo Serata. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 243 diamonds ( 2.54 ct). Buckle set with ~ 32 diamonds ( 0.23 ct). Guilloched ~ mother-of-pearl dial. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 27.4 × 39.7 mm. 4 973
Pa g e 178 4 991 – Gondolo Gemma. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 16-250. Case set with 72 diamonds ( 0.95 ct). Mother-of-pearl dial. ~ Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case dimensions : 37.2 × 22.4 mm.
4982 – Gondolo Gemma. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 289 diamonds ( 2.08 ct). Buckle set with ~ 35 diamonds ( 0.13 ct). Crown set with ~ 9 diamonds ( 0.05 ct). Mother-of pearl ~ dial, center paved with diamonds. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 37.2 × 22.4 mm. 4981 – Gondolo Gemma. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 72 diamonds ( 0.95 ct). Crown set ~ with 9 diamonds ( 0.05 ct). Mother~ of-pearl dial. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case dimensions : 37.2 × 22.4 mm.
diamonds ( 0.23 ct). Mother-of-pearl ~ dial. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 27.4 × 39.7 mm. PageS 184- 186 7010/1 – Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 46 diamonds ( 0.73 ct.). White or anthracite dial, ~ gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 32 mm.
4980 – Gondolo Gemma. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Mother-ofpearl dial. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case dimensions : 37.2 × 22.4 mm.
PageS 188- 189
Pa g e S 180- 181 4 992 – Gondolo Gemma. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 16-250. Case set with 285 diamonds ( 2.04 ct). Buckle set with 35 dia~ monds ( 0.13 ct). Mother-of-pearl ~ dial, center paved with diamonds. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 37.2 × 22.4 mm. 4 993 – Gondolo Gemma. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 16-250. Case set with 163 baguette diamonds ( 7.98 ct). Buckle set with 16 ~ baguette diamonds ( 0.6 ct). Crown set ~ with 16 baguette diamonds ( 0.25 ct). ~ Dial paved with 90 baguette diamonds ( 3.4 ct). Sapphire crystal case back. ~ Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 37.2 × 22.4 mm.
PageS 182- 183 4972/1 – Gondolo Serata. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 130 diamonds ( 1.8 ct). Guilloched ~ mother-of-pearl dial. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 27,4 × 39,7 mm. 4972 – Gondolo Serata. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 130 diamonds ( 1.8 ct). Guilloched ~ mother-of-pearl dial. Water resistant to 30 m. White gold. Case dimensions : 27.4 × 39.7 mm.
– Gondolo Serata. Quartz movement. Caliber E 15. Case set with 243 diamonds ( 2.54 ct). Buckle set with 32 ~ 4973
7010/1 – Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 46 diamonds ( 0.73 ct.). White or anthracite dial, ~ gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 32 mm. 7011/1 – Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center sweep second hand. White or anthracite dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 32 mm. 275. 9750/1 – Ring. Width 12.5 mm. 60 diamond ( 0.5 ct).White or ~ rose gold. PageS 190- 191 7010/1 – Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center seep
219
captions
220
second hand. Case set with 46 diamonds ( 0.73 ct.). White or anthracite dial, ~ gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 32 mm. – Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center sweep second hand. White or anthracite dial, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Water resistant to 60 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 32 mm. 7011/1
2 7 5 . 9 7 5 1 / 1 – Ring. Width 10 mm. 48 diamonds ( 0.4 ct).White or rose gold. ~ Page S 1 9 2 -1 9 3 5 0 8 7 / 1 – Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 46 diamonds ( 1 ct.). Embossed black or ~ white dial, gold applied numerals. Screw down crown. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case dimensions (10–4 o’clock) : 35.2 mm. Page S 1 9 4 -1 9 5 5 0 6 7 – Aquanaut Luce “Pure White” or “Mysterious Black”. Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 23 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 46 diamonds ( 1 ct.). Embossed ~ dial, gold applied numerals. “Tropical” composite strap. Screw-down crown. Fold-over clasp. Water resistant to 120 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 35.2 mm.
– Aquanaut Luce small size “Mysterious Black” or « Pure White ». Quartz movement with date. Caliber E 19 C. Case set with 46 diamonds ( 0.58 ct). Embossed dial. “Tropical” ~ composite strap. Fold-over clasp. Water resistant to 60 m. Stainless steel. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 29.4 mm. 4961
275. 2/ 1 – Ring. 21 diamonds ( 0.3 ct). ~ Delivered with 2 inserts : “Pure White” and “Mysterious Black”. White gold.
crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 35 mm.
Pa g e S 196- 197
Page 200
– Aquanaut Luce “Mysterious Black” or “Pure White”. Mechanical self-winding movement with date. Caliber 324 S C. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 387 diamonds ( 3.63 ct). Buckle set with 86 diamonds ~ ( 0.56 ct). Crown set with one diamond ~ ( 0.14 ct). Embossed dial, gold applied ~ numerals. “Tropical” composite strap. Screw-down crown. Fold-over clasp. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 120 m. White gold. Case diameter (10–4 o’clock) : 35.2 mm. 5069
275. 3/ 1 – Ring. 138 diamonds ( 0.99 ct). Delivered with 2 colored ~ inserts. “Pure White” or “Mysterious Black”. White gold.
Details : Buckle set with 86 diamonds ( 0.56 ct) ; diamond-set case and ~ crown ; sapphire crystal case back with movement 324 S C.
Pa g e 198 4934 – Calatrava Travel Time. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS FUS 24H. Dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time. Indication of 24-hour “home” time and seconds sub-dial. Case set with 48 diamonds ( 1.02 ct). White ~ gold dial : blue/gray tinted mother of pearl, rose gold : brown tinted. Sapphire
4937
– Back side. Caliber 324 S QA LU.
PageS 202- 205 4937 – Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 431 diamonds ( 2.79 ct). Crown set with ~ 14 diamonds ( 0.07 ct). Buckle set with ~ 27 diamonds ( 0.2 ct). White mother~ of-pearl dial, gold applied numerals (rose gold). Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 37 mm. 4936 – Annual Calendar. Mechanical self-winding movement. Caliber 324 S QA LU. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Case set with 156 diamonds ( 0.93 ct). Crown set ~ with 14 diamonds ( 0.07 ct). Yellow and ~ rose gold dial : white mother-or-pearl, white gold : black Tahitian mother-ofpearl. Gold applied numerals. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Yellow, white or rose gold. Case diameter : 37 mm.
Detail : Buckle set with 14 diamonds ( 0.07 ct). ~
Pa g e s 206- 207
– Calatrava Travel Time. Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS FUS 24H. Dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time. Indication of 24-hour “home” time and seconds sub-dial. Case set with 48 diamonds ( 1.02 ct). White ~ gold dial : blue/gray tinted mother of pearl, rose gold : brown tinted. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. White or rose gold. Case diameter : 35 mm. 4 934
Illustration : technical drawing of movement 215 PS FUS 24H.
Calibers C a l i b e r 240
Self-winding movements 22K gold off-center minirotor. Ultrathin movement. – Overall Ø : 27.5 mm, height : 2.53 mm. 27 jewels, 6 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 161. Patent CH 595 653. 2 40
– Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 27.5 mm, height : 2.53 mm. 27 jewels, 6 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 162. 2 40 P S
– Perpetual calendar : day, date, month, leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indication. Overall Ø : 27.5 mm, height : 3.88 mm. 27 jewels, 8 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 275. 2 40 Q
240 SQU
– Skeleton movement with hand-engraved decoration. Overall Ø : 27.5 mm, height : 2.53 mm. 27 jewels, 6 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 159.
date correction on March 1. Overall Ø : 32.6 mm, height : 5.78 mm. 34 jewels, 10 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 45 h max. Parts : 356 (324 S QA LU 24H/205). Parts : 347 (324 S QA LU 24H/303).
– Date. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 30 mm, height : 3.43 mm. 27 jewels, 8 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 191.
324 S IRM QA LU – Annual Calendar. Day and month by hands, date in an aperture. Moon phases. Power reserve indication. Center sweep second hand. Annual date correction on March 1. Overall Ø : 32 mm, height : 5.3 mm. 36 jewels, 10 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 45 h max. Parts : 355.
240 PS C
240 PS IRM C LU – Power reserve, date by hand and moon phases. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 31 mm, height : 3.98 mm. 29 jewels, 11 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 265.
– Indication of 24 time zones. Overall Ø : 27.5 mm, height : 3.88 mm. 33 jewels, 8 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 239. Patent CH 693 191. 240 H U
240 LU C L – Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Sky chart, phases and orbit of the Moon. Time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the Moon. Overall Ø : 38 mm, height : 6.26 mm. 45 jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 301. Patent CH 688 171. C ali b er 324
Self-winding movements – Date. Center sweep second hand. Overall Ø : 27 mm, height : 3.30 mm. 29 jewels, 6 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 45 h max. Parts : 213. 324 S C
324 S QA LU 24H /205 /
3 24 S Q A LU 24 H /303 – Annual
Calendar. Day, date, month in apertures. Moon phases and am/pm indication. Center sweep second hand. Annual
324 S IRM QA LU S I2, S piro m ax –
Silicon Balance spring and escape wheel . – Silicon Balance spring Spiromax, silicon escape wheel Pulsomax.
324 S IRM QA LU S I3 Pulso m ax
324 S QR – Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : 5.35 mm. 30 jewels, 9 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 45 h max. Parts : 361. 324 S QA LU –
Annual Calendar. Day, date, month in apertures. Moon phases. Center sweep second hand. Annual date correction on March 1. Overall Ø : 30 mm, height : 5.32 mm. 34 jewels, 10 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 45 h max. Parts : 328. C ali b er R 27
Self-winding movements with minute repeaters Flywheel. – Minute repeater. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : R 27 PS
221
C a p t i o n s
222
5.05 mm. 39 jewels, 10 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 342. – Minute repeater. Perpetual calendar : day, date, month, leap year by hands. Moon phases and am/pm indication. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : 6.9 mm. 39 jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 467. R 27 Q
R 2 7 P S Q R – Minute repeater. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Moon phases. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : 7.23 mm. 39 jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 515.
– Minute repeater. Annual Calendar. Day, date, month in apertures. Seconds sub-dial. Annual date correction on March 1. Overall Ø : 31 mm, height : 7.53 mm. 44 jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 483. R 27 PS QA
– Minute repeater. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Seconds sub-dial. Day, month, leap year display by mobile index. Age of the moon. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : 7.23 mm. 41 jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 515. R 27 PS QR LU
jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 336.
Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 240 h max. Parts : 231.
– Minute repeater, tourbillon escapement. Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Moon phases. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : 8.61 mm. 28 jewels, 13 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 506.
Manually wound chronograph movements
R T O 27 P S QR
– Minute repeater, tourbillon escapement. Dial side : perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Day, month, leap year by hands. Moon age. Reverse side : sidereal time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon. Overall Ø : 38 mm, height : 12.61 mm. 55 jewels, 24 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 686. Brevet CH 688 171. R T O 27 QR S I D LU C L
– Minute repeater, tourbillon escapement. Instantaneous perpetual calendar. Day, date, month in apertures. Seconds sub-dial. Moon phases and day/night display. Overall Ø : 32 mm, height : 9.33 mm. 35 jewels, 15 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 549. R T O 27 P S QI
C a l i b e r T O 28- 20 C al ibe r R T O 2 7
Manually wound movements with minute repeaters and tourbillon escapement Flywheel. Third wheel in gold. – Minute repeater, tourbillon escapement. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 28 mm, height : 6.58 mm. 28 R TO 27 PS
Manually wound movement with tourbillon escapement Twin mainspring barrels. – Seconds sub-dial. Tourbillon escapement. Power reserve indication. Dimensions : 28 × 20 mm, height : 6.3 mm. 29 jewels, 11 bridges. Balance : T O 28- 20 RE C 1 0J PS IRM
C ali b er C H 27- 70
Base movement « Nouvelle Lémania », exclusive execution to Patek Philippe. – Chronograph function : center chronograph hand, 30-minute counter. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 27.5 mm, height : 5.57 mm. 24 jewels, 8 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 18 000. Power reserve : 60 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 208. C H 27- 70
– Chronograph function : center chronograph hand, 30-minute counter. Perpetual calendar : date and leap year by hands, day and month in apertures. Moon phases and am/pm indication. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 30 mm, height : 7.2 mm. 24 jewels, 9 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 18 000. Power reserve : 60 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 353. C H 27- 70 Q
– Split seconds chronograph, 30-minute counter. Perpetual calenda : date and leap year by hands, day and month in apertures. Moon phases and am/pm indication. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 30 mm, height : 8.86 mm. 28 jewels, 10 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 18 000. Power reserve : 60 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 407. Patented split seconds disengagement mechanism. Patent CH 686 545. C H R 27- 70 Q
C ali b er C H 28- 520
Self-winding chronograph movements – Annual Calendar Chronograph. Chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter. Annual Calendar mechanism.
C H 28- 520 IRM QA 24H
Day, date, month in apertures. Annual date correction on March 1. Power reserve and day/night display. Overall Ø : 33 mm, height : 7,68 mm. 40 jewels, 14 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 55 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 456.
– Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 21.9 mm, height : 2.55 mm. 18 jewels, 5 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./ hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 44 h max. Parts : 130. 215 PS
C H 28- 520 C – Chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour mono-counter. Date in an aperture. Overall Ø : 30 mm, height : 6.63 mm. 35 jewels, 13 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 55 h max. Balance spring : Breguet. Parts : 327.
– Dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time. Indication of 24-hour « home » time on subsidiary dial. Seconds subdial. Overall Ø : 21.9 mm, height : 3.35 mm. 18 jewels, 6 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 44 h max. Parts : 178. Patent CH 340 191.
C a l i b e r C HR 27- 525 P S
C ali b er 16- 250
Manually wound chronograph movement
Manually wound movements
– Split seconds chronograph, 60-minute counter. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 27.3 mm, height : 5.25 mm. 27 jewels, 12 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 21 600. Power reserve : 48 h max. Parts : 252.
16- 250
C HR 27- 525 P S
C a l i b e r 25- 21 RE C
Manually wound movements – Dimensions : 24.6 × 21.5 mm, height : 2.57 mm. 18 jewels, 7 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 44 h max. Parts : 142. 2 5- 21 RE C
– Seconds sub-dial. Dimensions : 24.6 × 21.5 mm, height : 2.57 mm. 18 jewels, 7 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 44 h max. Parts : 142. 2 5- 21 RE C P S
C a l i b e r 215 –
Manually wound movements – Overall Ø : 21.9 mm, height : 2.55 mm. 18 jewels, 5 bridges. Balance : Gyromax. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 44 h max. Parts : 130. 2 15
215 PS F US 24H
– Overall Ø : 16.3 mm, height : 2.5 mm. 18 jewels, 4 bridges. Balance : annular. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 38 h max. Parts : 101. – Moon phases. Seconds sub-dial. Overall Ø : 20 mm, height : 295 mm. 18 jewels, 4 bridges. Balance : annular. Vib./hour : 28 800. Power reserve : 38 h max. Parts : 115. 16- 250 PS LU
C ali b er E 23
Quartz movement – Date. Center sweep second hand. Overall Ø : 23.9 mm, height : 2.5 mm. 7 jewels. Parts : 100. Battery life : ~3 years. E 23 S C
C ali b er E 15
Quartz movement – Dimensions : 16.3 × 13 mm, height : 1.8 mm. 6 jewels. Parts : 57. Réserve de marche de la pile (neuve) : 3 ans. ~ E 15
C ali b r e E 19 C
Quartz movement – Date. Overall Ø : 19.4 mm, height : 2.5 mm. 7 jewels. Parts : 80. Réserve de marche de la pile (neuve) : 3 ans. ~ E 19 C
223
W at c h e s I n d e x
224
M e n s ’ w at c h e s
Th e A n n u al C al e n d a r
C a l at r ava
Nauti lus
24 , 209 51 4 6 2 1 , 209 51 4 6 / 1 10 , 2 1 , 209 51 4 7 23 , 209 53 9 6 19 , 209
78, 214 5116 7 2 , 2 1 3 5118 7 8 , 2 1 3 5119 7 1 , 1 7 1 , 2 1 3 5120 7 2 , 2 1 3 5120/ 1 7 2 , 2 1 3 5153 7 3 , 2 1 3 5196 7 4 , 7 6 , 2 1 3 5296 66 , 7 5 , 2 1 3 6000 7 7 , 2 1 3
5711
51 3 5
Pe rp e tu al c al e n d a r s
2 7 , 209 2 8 , 2 10 51 5 9 12 , 3 1 , 209 , 2 1 0 51 3 9 51 4 0
5108
Nauti lus jewels C a l at r ava j ewels
W o rl d T im e 51 3 0 51 3 1
3 2 , 2 10 33 , 2 10
95, 97, 214, 215 88, 96, 214, 215 5712 9 2 , 9 4 , 2 1 4 5712/1 9 3 , 2 1 4 5713/1 1 0 0 , 2 1 5 5719/1 1 0 2 , 2 1 5 5722 1 0 1 , 2 1 5 5724 1 0 3 , 2 1 5 5980/1 9 8 , 2 1 5 5711/1
75, 213 9089 7 2 , 2 1 3 9108 7 9 , 2 1 4 9719/ 1 7 2 , 2 1 3
103, 215 103, 215 240. 9724/1 1 0 3 , 2 1 5 9057 9 5 , 9 7 , 2 1 4 , 2 1 5 9058 1 0 0 , 2 1 5
Gon do l o
Aquanaut
9083
205. 9724/1 225. 9724/1
C h ro n o graphs 50 0 4 50 7 0 59 5 9 59 6 0 59 7 0 59 7 1
41 , 2 10 4 5 , 2 11 35 , 3 9 , 2 10 3 6 , 2 10 42 , 2 10 42 , 2 11
5098 5124
81, 214 82 , 2 1 4
84, 8 7, 214 5738 8 5 , 2 1 4
5 5 , 2 12 46 , 4 8 , 2 11 6 0 , 2 12 6 4 , 2 13 5 6 , 2 12 5 7 , 2 12 5 9 , 2 12 5 3 , 2 11 50 , 2 11 63 , 2 12 62 , 2 12
50 1 3 50 1 6 50 3 3 50 7 4 50 7 8 51 0 1 51 0 2 51 0 4 52 0 7
Rar e sk i lls
110, 216 112, 216 5180/1 1 0 8 , 2 1 6
982/113 1544
39 3 9 H 50 0 2
5167
Gol d e n E l l i pse 3738/ 100
Th e E x c e pt io n al Watch e s
1 07 , 2 1 6 1 0 4 , 1 07 , 2 1 5 , 2 1 6 5167/1 1 07 , 2 1 5 , 2 1 6 5165
Gol d e n E l l i pse jewels 9102 9602
8 4 , 86 , 8 7 , 2 1 4 86 , 2 1 4
L a d i e s ’ w at c h e s
225
Twenty~4
Gondo lo
15 2, 216 4 9 08/ 11 1 5 3 , 2 1 6 4 9 08/ 101 1 64 , 2 1 8 4 9 08/ 200 1 5 7 , 2 1 7 4 9 09/ 50 1 65 , 2 1 8 4 9 10 1 5 9 , 2 1 7 4 9 10/ 10 1 4 5 , 1 5 4 , 2 1 6 , 2 1 7 4 9 10/ 11 1 4 8 , 1 5 1 , 2 1 6 4 9 10/ 20 1 5 7 , 2 1 7 4 9 10/ 48 1 60 , 2 1 7 4 9 10/ 49 1 61 , 2 1 7 4 9 10/ 51 1 64 , 2 1 8 4 9 10/ 52 1 62 , 2 1 7 4 9 11 1 5 9 , 2 1 7 4 9 14 1 60 , 2 1 7 4 9 20 1 5 8 , 2 1 7 4 9 37 1 46 , 2 1 6
4972
4 9 07/ 1
1 82, 219 1 82, 219 176, 1 83, 219 1 81, 219 1 81, 219 1 81, 219 178, 1 80, 219 1 80, 219 1 80, 219
4972/1 4973 4980 4981 4982 4991 4992 4993
Naut i lus 7010/1 7011/1
1 84, 1 86, 1 88, 191, 219 1 8 8 , 1 9 1 , 2 1 9 , 2 20
Naut i lus jewels 275. 9750/1 275. 9751/1
1 88, 219 1 9 1 , 2 20
Twenty~4 jewels
1 64 , 2 1 8 15 7, 217 2 7 5. 9748/ 1 1 5 3 , 1 5 6 , 2 1 6 , 2 1 7 2 7 5. 9749/ 1 1 63 , 2 1 8 2 8 7. 1/ 1. 1 1 64 , 2 1 8 2 8 7. 9746/ 1 1 5 7 , 2 1 7 2 8 7. 9748/ 1 1 5 3 , 1 5 6 , 2 1 6 , 2 1 7 2 8 7. 9749/ 1 1 63 , 2 1 8 2 7 5. 1/ 1. 1
2 7 5. 9745/ 1
Aquanaut
1 9 5 , 2 20 1 9 4 , 2 20 5069 1 9 7 , 2 20 5087/1 1 9 2 , 2 20
4961
5067
Aquanaut jewels 275. 2/1
C a l at r ava
1 66 , 1 6 8 , 2 1 8 175, 21 8 7 1 19 7 0 , 1 7 0 , 2 1 8 7 1 19/ 1 1 7 3 , 2 1 8
275. 3/1
1 9 4 , 2 20 1 9 7 , 2 20
4 8 97 4 9 59
C a l at r ava j e w e l s 2 7 5. 6/ 1 2 7 5. 7/ 1
170, 21 8 173, 21 8
compli cated
1 9 8 , 2 0 6 , 2 20 , 2 2 1 2 0 3 , 2 20 4937 2 0 0 , 2 0 3 , 2 0 4 , 2 20 4958 1 7 4 , 2 1 8 4958/1 1 75 , 2 1 8 4934 4936
Pat e k P h i l i pp e 141 chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire CH-1228 Plan-les-Ouates Postal address : P.O. Box 2654 – CH-1211 Geneva 2 www.patek.com
© Copyright 2009 – Patek Philippe, Genève – Printed in Switzerland Graphic design : Enrique Pardo; Photography : Jean-Daniel Meyer, Fabien Cruchon, Enrique Pardo, Alban Kakulya (p. 113), Nicolas Righetti (p. 114).
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