Set sail on a Greek odyssey to isles less traveled
SOAK UP THE MEMORIES
Dive into a world of splash-tastic thrills onboard Star of the Seas SM — the latest Icon Class gamechanger. With seven unique pools, there’s a perfect way for everyone to make a splash. Float over to Royal Bay SM , the largest pool at sea, for panoramic views and endless swim space, or sip your way to paradise with Piña Colada or a Goombay Smash at Swim & Tonic SM . Kids and parents alike will find all-day fun at the Surfside SM neighborhood, designed just for families to soak up the fun together. Escape to the adults-only Hideaway for next-level serenity, then brave the record-breaking slides of Category 6 for nonstop adventure. This is where every poolside moment feels like a getaway on its own — only on a Royal Caribbean ® adventure.
The Mediterranean
TRAVEL DEEPER INTO THE TRUE SOUL OF THIS STORIED REGION
The Mediterranean is famous for its culinary delights, and with S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) on Silver Dawn and Silver Ray, guests can explore regional food traditions beyond typical tourist fare. S.A.L.T. Kitchen offers regional dishes with a menu that changes based on the ship’s location, from sustainable seafood catches on the coasts of Tuscany, Catalonia, and Croatia to the art of gelato in Sicily. S.A.L.T. Bar features local wines, comparing the effects of volcanic soils on wines from Sicily’s Mt. Etna to Santorini, and custom cocktails inspired by the journey. For a deeper dive, S.A.L.T. Lab provides interactive cooking experiences and culinary discussions with chefs and visiting experts. This program integrates food, culture, and travel to offer unique and immersive experiences, ensuring no two cruises are the same.
CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.
DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE MEDITERRANEAN
Photo by Marco Argüello
28
What’s on Deck in 2025
Five cruise destinations set to make waves this year.
32 Sailing the
Cyclades
Sail away with writer Hester Underhill as she discovers Greece’s lesser-known isles aboard an 11-passenger yacht.
42 Island Paradise
Join photographer Michael George on a journey through Puerto Rico’s diverse landscapes, from breathtaking beaches and lush forests to colorful coastal towns.
50 South Korea’s Walkable Isle
A 271-mile-long trail network has turned Jeju Island into a must-walk destination, bringing hikers up close to volcanic cones, waterfalls and an endless coastline.
60 A Perfect Day In
Unwind along the ocean, savor local flavors and experience the joys of small-town living in Victoria, British Columbia.
66 Ask a Local
Brazil expert Nuno Verissimo shares the country’s most spectacular natural wonders.
68 Port of Call
Everything you need to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Hong Kong.
PHOTOS: MICHAEL
Allura. YOUR WORLD is CALLING
2 for 1 Cruise Fares Gourmet Specialty Restaurants In-Suite and In-Stateroom Dining Unlimited WiFi Sodas, Specialty Coffees & Teas Still & Sparkling Vero Water® Juices, Smoothies & Gourmet Ice Cream Group Fitness Classes Laundry Services
Shipboard Gratuities
EDITORIAL
Editorial Director
Dominique Lamberton
Contributing Editor
Andrew Elkin
Senior Editor
Robert Liwanag
ART
Creative Design Director
Stefanie Sosiak
Photography Director
Lori Morgan
CONTRIBUTORS
Marco Argüello, Michael George, Christian Heurtelou, Jessica Huras, Lisa Kadane, Dave Lank, Aimi Mayne, Caitlin Walsh Miller, Sarah Musgrave, Claire Sibonney, Wing Sze Tang, Hester Underhill
RESEARCHERS
Amanda Ghazale Aziz, Leila El Shennawy, Corinna Reeves
Director, Partnership Marketing (Land) Franca Iuele
Senior Account Manager (Cruise)
Jocelyn Saldana
Manager, Partner Marketing & Engagement
Nicole Baker
Sustainable Practices
Range is printed and distributed with Mi5 Print and Digital, a sustainable business partner and Earth-friendly printing company. Range is printed on Inspira text and cover and is a 100-percent sustainable sourced product. All fiber is sourced under a zero-deforestation commitment, produced using materials from rapidly renewable tree plantations. Inspira is fully PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, one of the world’s largest forest certification systems) chain of custody-certified.
2 QUEEN STREET EAST 20 TH FLOOR TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7
Publisher Jeff Willner
President
Michael Johnson
SVP, Marketing
Shahla Lalani
SVP, Operations
Kristina Boyce
SVP, Partner Relations
Beth Butzlaff
VP, Destination & Specialty
Ian Elliott
VP, Member Relations
Mark Stubbert
What is Ensemble?
Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com
Range (Volume 9). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel Ltd.
No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise duplicated without the permission of the publisher. Range is published on behalf of Ensemble Travel Ltd. member agencies.
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Advertising and marketing inquiries can be sent to marketing@ensembletravel.com
For editorial inquiries, please email editor@ensembletravel.ca
Join Us, Stay Awhile
Complimentary Land Package Offer
Turn Your River Cruise into a European Adventure
Welcoming guests on board stunning ships and offering up to eight daily excursions, host-led tness classes, a daily Sip & Sail cocktail hour with a full menu of cocktails and mocktails, and ne dining at every meal, AmaWaterways is the river cruise line with the most included experiences – and right now, we are including even more. Through March 31, 2025, when you reserve select 2025 and 2026 Europe river cruises, you will receive a 2-, 3- or 4-night land package to extend your journey – with our compliments!
Reserve our Enchanting Rhine river cruise, for example, and enjoy a more immersive vacation with our 4-night pre-cruise land package in Switzerland. Rest in comfort in a spectacular hotel in the heart of Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city, following your international ight. The following day, stroll amongst the spires with your knowledgeable local guide, taking in the city’s Old Town with its cobblestone streets, medieval buildings and historic churches. Your next two days will be lled with the wonders of Lucerne, including a breathtaking Lake Lucerne cruise and a tour of Basel –all before you ever embark your ship on the castle-laden Rhine.
Prefer to venture along one of France’s many unique waterways? Take in the delights of Bordeaux, Burgundy,
Provence or Paris and Normandy, extending your journey with our land packages in Paris, the French Riviera, Brittany, Geneva or Spain’s Basque Country, depending on your choice of itinerary.
Each land package includes overnight stays at a world-class hotel, many just steps from the city’s most sought-after landmarks, and with daily breakfast served right on site. You will also strengthen your bond with your AmaWaterways Cruise Manager and fellow guests who have reserved your cruise extension, join an engaging local guide on excursions that range from walking tours to museum visits and tastings, and enjoy peace of mind as you and your luggage are transferred comfortably between your hotel and river cruise ship.
With up to $3,960/C$5,224 in savings for double occupancy bookings, our Complimentary Land Package offers incredible value. Contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor to secure yours before March 31, 2025!
Once in a blue moon, you experience something unforgettable. On Norwegian Luna™, the newest ship in the Prima Class, you might find that a blue moon happens more often than you’d think. Mirrored after her sister ship Norwegian Aqua™, it features thoughtfully designed spaces for every phase of your vacation. There’s an Aqua Slidecoaster when you’re ready to turn things up and perfectly appointed Oceanview and Balcony Staterooms when you’re ready to turn down. So, your whole group can do exactly what you’re in the mood for — even if those moods change with the tides.
CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR TO BOOK TODAY!
7-DAY EASTERN CARIBBEAN FROM MIAMI
PUERTO PLATA, ST. THOMAS, TORTOLA AND GREAT STIRRUP CAY
NORWEGIAN LUNA I APR - NOV 2026
Dive In
Despite being a travel editor, I don’t have packing down to a science (shh). I am not a proponent of packing cubes. Sometimes I roll, sometimes I fold, sometimes I just stuff. And, too often, I am on the brink of going over the liquids allowance in my carry-on. But I do have one packing rule I never break, no matter where I’m headed or how long I’ll be gone: I always bring my swimsuit.
Like writer Caitlin Walsh Miller (see her essay on page 26), I believe getting into a destination’s water — be it an ocean, lake or out-of-the-way swimming hole — is a vital step in really getting to know it. And, lucky for all of us water people out there, this immersion has health perks, too.
Outdoor aquatic environments, or blue spaces, have been shown to be beneficial for our bodies and minds — even more so than green spaces — and wading in plays a part in that, says Mat White, an environmental psychologist and senior scientist at the University of Vienna. “Unlike most green spaces, we can immerse in water and connect to nature in a very visceral way,” he says, adding that growing research shows that immersion in water, especially of the cold variety, can have several psychological benefits. If you’re less swimming inclined, not to worry: There are positives from simply observing water, thanks to its movement, light reflection and rhythmic soundscapes. “These all contribute to something we call ‘soft fascination’ — environments that attract and hold your attention in a non-threatening way, which helps stress reduction,” says White.
In this issue of Range, we’re immersing you in some of the world’s most fascinating blue spaces, from a coastal trail on South Korea’s Jeju Island (page 50) to the lesserknown Cycladic islands that dot the Aegean Sea (page 32). And speaking of immersion, I’m about to dive into a new experience: parenthood! By the time this issue is printed, my husband and I should be welcoming our little one. I am delighted to be handing things over to acting editorial director Andrew Elkin for the next few issues — he will see you here in the spring!
Lamberton Editorial Director
We’re online!
Find more immersive content, plus expertly curated Travel Guides and exclusive offers, at rangetravel.com
Dominique
Contributors
Marco Argüello
PHOTOGRAPHER
Hometown McAllen, Texas
Home base Athens
The place I can return to again and again is Japan. My wife and I are going back to celebrate both our 40th birthdays and our 10th anniversary. There is so much to see in Japan, and it takes multiple trips to truly get below the surface.
When I’m not shooting for Range, I work for various international publications and brands, including The New York Times , Travel + Leisure , Monocle and Polaroid. In between those jobs, I mostly hang out with my son.
Sailing the Cyclades — page 32
Wing Sze Tang
WRITER
Hometown and home base Toronto
My top travel memory is from my early twenties, when I worked for a summer in London, then backpacked around Europe. I was shy and wideeyed, and seeing the world on my own for the first time. The experience set the tone for what I do now.
When I’m not writing for Range , I write and edit travel stories for the Toronto Star and other outlets, run marathons around the world with my husband and friends, and hang out with my two very cute dogs, Ramen and Pepper.
Port of Call: Hong Kong — page 68
Michael George
PHOTOGRAPHER
Hometown Fort Myers, Florida
Home base New York
I travel to make my life feel longer. A week at home can go by in a second, but a day in a new place feels like weeks, as time stretches out in a fresh and beautiful way. While it’s not always easy, travel expands my mind and heart with ever-new experiences.
When I’m not collaborating with Range , I enjoy Broadway shows, play Ultimate Frisbee in the park and thrive as an unabashed Swiftie. My photography, meanwhile, strives to share the stories of the underrepresented — with a particular focus on the LGBTQ+ community.
Island Paradise — page 42
When you are named #1 for Rivers… #1 for Oceans…
and #1 for Expeditions, two years in a row… Where do you go next?
SAIL UNIQUE
DESIGNED TO FEEL LIKE YOUR OWN PRIVATE YACHT
Immerse yourself in Explora Journeys, the newest and most stylish European luxury lifestyle brand that is rede ning ocean travel for the ultimate ocean experience.
Designed to feel like your own private yacht, Explora Journeys opens up Ocean Suites, Penthouses and Residences for its guests. With nine unforgettable inclusive culinary experiences, and ocean-inspired wellness, guests will travel to enriching lesser-travelled destinations in e ortless European style as they discover the Ocean State of Mind.
Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.
GOING PLACES
Travel Among Women
Across the globe, women travel more than men: Not only do they make up 64 percent of all travelers, but they’re more likely to travel solo, too. These are among the reasons more companies are offering trips exclusively for females. Butterfield & Robinson, known for its active journeys, has launched a Women’s Only collection, featuring itineraries like an eight-day biking tour through Cambodia and Vietnam. Meanwhile, Uniworld is setting sail in August 2025 with its first-ever women-only cruise on the Rhône and Saône rivers in southern France. Expect cocktail parties, wine tastings and dancing — whether you board solo or with a cohort of gal pals.
Detour Destinations
While 2024 was about destination dupes — a trend whereby travelers swap popular places for lesser-known, more affordable stand-ins like Curaçao for Saint Martin, or Taipei for Seoul — 2025 is the year of detour destinations. Rather than seeking out an alternate, this trend encourages travelers to add onto their trip to a major destination and experience even more. So, visit Barcelona, but take an extra day to venture farther into Catalonia, to the colorful city of Girona, just a 40-minute train ride northeast. And, on your trip to Tokyo, tack on a side trip to Fukuoka, five hours away by bullet train, to see the reclining Buddha at Nanzoin Temple and relax on the city’s pristine beaches.
An Easier Way to Track Your Bags
If you use Apple AirTags to keep tabs on your luggage when flying, the process is about to get more official. Apple recently introduced Share Item Location, a feature that allows users to securely share the whereabouts of an AirTag with third parties, such as airlines. Apple also announced that more than 15 carriers around the world, including Delta Air Lines, Air New Zealand, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines and Singapore Airlines, will soon incorporate the new feature into customer-service processes for locating missing or delayed bags — hopefully bearing fruit for more passengers.
TRAVEL SIZE
CRUISE NEWS
Join Ensemble’s Inaugural LGBTQ+ Sailing
Bring on the Turkish baths and Sicilian limoncello: This summer, Ensemble will host its first-ever LGBTQ+ cruise, in the Mediterranean aboard Explora Journeys’ EXPLORA I. Guests will begin the eightday voyage in Istanbul, with stops on the Greek islands of Lesbos and Paros, in Palermo, Sicily, and along the Amalfi Coast before disembarking in Genoa. There are plenty of reasons to book an Ensemble Hosted Cruise: You’ll be joined by an onboard host, enjoy a welcome reception and take in an Ensemble Experience shore event (this one is in Palermo). Ask your travel advisor for more details.
New Year, New Luggage
Prepare for a fresh year of adventures with a slick new spinner: the compact and sustainable Cubo Small from Japanese brand Lojel. Crafted with 50-percent recycled polycarbonate and a washable lining, this simple yet functional carry-on features a forward-opening front compartment (perfect for stashing your laptop and any other easy-access items) and an expandable body for extra storage (so go ahead, buy that sweatshirt). Cubo Small, US$330, lojel.com
EDITORS’ PICKS
Where We’re Headed in 2025
OMAN
Robert Liwanag, Senior Editor
“I’ll be starting and ending my eight-day journey in Muscat, and visiting the Bimmah Sinkhole, Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve and ancient city of Nizwa in between. This will be my first time in the Middle East, so I’m most excited to stay at a desert camp in the Wahiba Sands.”
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND
Lori Morgan, Photography Director “PEI is a slow-paced sanctuary, a place where jumping off a wharf for a swim is the best way to kill time between lobster rolls.
One of my family’s go-to stops is Brackley Beach — I can’t wait to feel the red sand under my feet this summer.”
HAWAI‘I
Dominique Lamberton, Editorial Director
“My husband and I plan to take our new baby to Maui this spring. Our first trip as a family of three will be filled with unknowns, but I am envisioning walks on Big Beach in Mākena State Park, an outing to Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm and afternoons spent splashing in the pool.”
MUST-READ
The Making of Rick Steves
CHECKING IN
Wellness-certified Stays
With wellness topping travel trends for another year — the industry is expected to reach a global value of US$1.4 trillion by 2027 — Wellness in Travel & Tourism has launched the first-ever wellness certification for hotels and resorts. The independent organization made up of tourism experts assesses properties using a set of criteria that spans five pillars: healthy eating, holistic healing, nature, movement and local impact. More than 100 properties across North America have received certification so far, including Canyon Ranch Woodside, known for its treehouse accommodations, and the Arizona Biltmore, set at the base of the Phoenix Mountains Preserve.
Best known for his long-running TV show, Rick Steves’ Europe, which premiered in the early 2000s, best-selling guidebook author Rick Steves now chronicles his life-changing trip along the “Hippie Trail” in his new book. In On the Hippie Trail: Istanbul to Kathmandu and the Making of a Travel Writer, Steves takes readers on his journey between the Turkish and Nepalese cities, a route that gained popularity in the 1970s. At 23 years old, Steves experienced just about everything you could put on a coming-of-age bingo card — from jumping off moving trains to getting lost in the vast city of Lahore — and passages from his 45-year-old journals help to tell the story.
On the Hippie Trail: Istanbul to Kathmandu and the Making of a Travel Writer , US$30, hachettebookgroup.com
EARTH-FRIENDLY
Sustainable Helsinki
Looking to travel more responsibly in 2025? Add Helsinki to your list. The Finnish capital was crowned the world’s most sustainable destination in 2024, in an annual ranking compiled by the Global Destination Sustainability Movement. With roughly 23,000 acres of public green space (that’s nearly 27 Central Parks) per 100,000 people, more than half of its electricity coming from renewable sources and 49 percent of its waste recycled, the city is committed to sustainable infrastructure. What’s more, 88 percent of Helsinki’s hotel rooms and all its event venues hold third-party sustainability certifications, so the tourism industry is making strides, too.
NOBODY DOES IT BETTER TM
Step into the extraordinary, where you will enjoy the ultimate refined luxury and warm, Heartfelt Hospitality™ found only aboard the World’s Most Luxurious Fleet® With spacious all-balcony suites and a nearly 1:1 crew-to-guest ratio, nobody does it better.
SEVEN SEA S CRUISES ®
Oliver Steeds
Oliver Steeds left behind war reporting to highlight a different cause. Now, the British explorer is leading a mission to draw attention to — and protect — Earth’s final frontier: our oceans.
By Dave Lank
From covering conflict zones to piloting submersibles in the ocean’s twilight zone, Oliver Steeds’ career charts an unconventional course. His years as a broadcast journalist for the likes of NBC and Channel 4 led him to start reporting on the ocean, where he realized his true mission. So, in 2015, Steeds founded Nekton, a not-forprofit organization that conducts scientific research to protect and explore our oceans. Our knowledge of the sea is as shallow as the waters are deep: Scientists say that only 10 percent of marine life has been identified. Steeds’ team has already helped shed light on a new underwater ecosystem, and they’ve just dived into an ambitious project, Ocean Census, which aims to find at least 100,000 new marine species within the next decade. “I apply my skills as a journalist to drive scientific exploration,” says Steeds, “but also to deepen our cultural and societal awareness about ocean life, which makes all life possible on Earth.”
Range What’s the most challenging aspect of deep-sea exploration?
Oliver Steeds One thing is the pressure. Another is that it’s dark. But most of all, the sea is a mirror to the sky, so people are disconnected from it. That makes our work difficult, because there’s very little funding compared to its importance for planetary resilience.
R Tell us about the moment when you encountered a new ecosystem in Bermuda. OS I was piloting a submersible on the Argus Seamount, about 330 feet below the surface, where no one had really been before. It was a forest of algae and corals, with six-foot black corals that were like the oak trees of this environment. It’s not every day you think that you’ve discovered a new forest. That was the basis of confirming the discovery of the rariphotic zone, from 425 to 1,000 feet (130 to 310 meters) deep — one of the largest ecosystems ever found on Earth.
R What do you hope Nekton’s work will achieve in the next 10 years?
OS At the moment, scientists have discovered about a tenth of what lives in the ocean. Through Ocean Census we will undertake the largest identification of ocean life ever mounted. We have about 45 major organizations in the alliance, along with scientists from more than 350 institutes, which we are coordinating in this global census to discover tens of thousands of species per year.
R You’ve explored oceans worldwide. Do you have a favorite coastal destination?
OS I love the Maldives. It’s made up of about 1,200 islands that are all the same height — within a few feet of each other. Geologically, that’s extraordinary. It’s one of the few nations built entirely on coral. You’re also on the front line of the climate and biodiversity crisis. If it doesn’t all click and make sense to you there, nowhere else on Earth will do it.
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Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.
Slides at Sea
Bigger, faster, wilder: These four cruise-ship waterslides thrill passengers of all ages.
By Robert Liwanag
ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL
Storm Surge
It’s only fitting that the world’s largest cruise ship is also home to the world’s largest waterpark at sea. Category Six on Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas features six formidable slides, including Storm Surge, a suspended raft slide that zooms four riders down a 395-foot-long tube before boomeranging them onto an overhang that resembles a giant lotus leaf. If your eyes aren’t squeezed shut, take in the views as you soar to the top — but brace yourself for the massive final drop.
The Epic Plunge
The Epic Plunge — a 236-foot-long, yellow-andorange behemoth — will impress even the fiercest waterslide naysayers. Located four stories above the pool deck on Norwegian Epic, the slide’s centerpiece is the gigantic bowl at its mid-point, which riders circle a few times (with or without an inflatable tube) before descending a final section of slide. The best part? The Epic Plunge has no age or height restrictions — perfect for kids seeking their first waterpark adventure.
NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE
AquaDuck
Think you’re brave enough to weave through 765 feet of clear tube high above — and off the side of — a cruise ship? If your answer is yes, then add the AquaDuck to your to-do list while aboard Disney Dream or Disney Fantasy. Start on Deck 12 with your two-person raft, then sit back as this water coaster’s jets propel you and a buddy down, up and around the liner, delivering you four decks below. You can even ride at night, when it’s aglow in multicolored lights.
CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE
Twister Waterslide
Zigging and zagging across 200-plus feet before a final plunge into a pool, the Twister Waterslide more than lives up to its name. Part of Carnival’s WaterWorks attraction, this slide is found on 25 ships, including Carnival Jubilee, the newest in the fleet. On some liners, the Twister is a closed slide, while on others, such as Carnival Freedom and Carnival Radiance, it offers open views of the sea. Whatever the setup, you can be sure one ride is never enough.
DISNEY CRUISE LINE
Make a Splash
Prepare for water-centric holidays with smart gear that will keep you (and your belongings) safe, dry and ready for action.
Go-anywhere Speaker
This mini Bluetooth speaker is made to go where you go — even onto the pool floatie. Its strap makes it easy to attach anywhere, and thanks to its waterproof design, even if it falls in, the band will play on. MINIROLL, US$80, ultimateears.com
Turkish Towel
Handmade by artisans in Turkey using 100-percent local cotton, this towel is absorbent yet lightweight, making it ideal for rolling up into your suitcase and unfurling upon arrival.
The Wave Turkish Towel, CA$55, tofinotowelco.com
Travel-ready SUP
Remove this two-in-one stand-up paddleboard and kayak from its pack, pump it up and hit the surf. It’s one of the most compact hybrids out there, at 40-percent smaller than Isle’s standard Switch inflatable.
Switch Compact, US$895, islesurfandsup.com
Secure Bucket Hat
Whether you’re on the beach or paddling across the reef, top things off with this bucket hat that’s waterrepellent, breathable and made from recycled fishing nets.
Surf Brimmer Hat, US$55, patagonia.com
Do-it-all Sunscreen
Vacation’s retro packaging and blissful scent (with notes of coconut and banana) combine with a water-resistant, oxybenzone- and octinoxate-free formula for the perfect pool or seaside sunscreen. Classic Lotion SPF 30, US$18, vacation.inc
Smartphone Pouch
Don’t go near the water without this pouch that seals up securely to protect your smartphone. Its touchscreencompatible window means you can still snap photos and send messages — plus, it floats!
Waterproof Pouch, US$25, riflepaperco.com
There’s more to experience
at sea
Discover the unique joys of life at sea as you sail to iconic destinations around the globe. Bask in the sunshine of the Mediterranean, the Iberian coast, and the Caribbean. Experience the beauty of Norwegian fjords, Alaskan glaciers, and Icelandic geysers. Or fall for the enduring charms of Canada and New England.
Alaska w Caribbean w Canada & New England w Transatlantic Crossings Mediterranean w Europe w Norwegian Fjords w World Voyages w & more
Ask your Ensemble Travel Advisor about the exclusive benefits available on select Ensemble Hosted Voyages
Book by March 26, 2025, to enjoy special Ensemble benefits plus additional extras during Cunard’s Treat yourself, on us offer.*
Noodle Soups
Whether for sweating through the heat or soothing the soul — or both — every culture finds comfort in a good bowl of soup.
By Jessica Huras
In the late 1800s, immigrants from China, Japan, Korea and beyond arrived in Hawai‘i to work on sugar plantations, bringing diverse culinary traditions that shaped the islands’ most distinctive dishes — like saimin. Beloved for its versatility and delicate umami flavor, saimin consists of a dashi-based broth and thin wheat-and-egg noodles. The satisfying soup is topped with an anythinggoes selection of Spam, egg, green onions, kamaboko (fish cakes) and char siu (barbecue pork). Where to try it: Since the 1950s, Hamura Saimin in Līhu‘e, Kaua‘i, has dished up a secret broth recipe passed down through generations. At lunchtime, the communal counters fill up quickly as diners vie for a bowl.
MALAYSIA
Curry Laksa
A staple at Malaysian food stalls, curry laksa’s vibrant broth comes from a base of turmeric, lemongrass, galangal, shrimp paste and coconut milk. Poured over a mix of wheat and rice noodles and garnished with toppings like tofu puffs, shrimp, chili and lime, laksa delivers a zesty flavor punch in every slurp. Where to try it: On Madras Lane in Kuala Lumpur, three long-running rival stalls each present their spin on this must-try dish.
PERU
Sopa Criolla
It’s believed that Italian immigrants introduced this soul-warming soup, made from minced beef, tomato paste, evaporated milk, oregano and angelhair pasta, to Peru. Aji panca chili adds spicy depth, while a poached egg and croutons provide the finishing touches. Where to try it: Restaurante Bar Cordano, one of Lima’s oldest restaurants, serves sopa criolla and other Peruvian dishes in a dining room decorated with photos of the notable people who have eaten there.
HAWAI‘I Saimin
Just Add Water
Is swimming the ultimate introduction to a new place? Take the plunge and find out, says writer Caitlin Walsh Miller.
It was day six of an eight-day road trip through Canada’s East Coast. I was solo with my kids, who were two and four at the time, and tensions, shall we say, were high. But so was the temperature. It was unusually warm for late September. Post-tropical storm Lee had just rolled over Nova Scotia, giving way to summer-like weather along its south shore. Waves, six feet tall, crashed onto Bayswater Beach, a secluded, sandy spot about an hour west of Halifax.
The three of us frolicked — there’s no other word for it — in the surf, until my youngest was fully tuckered. He and I sat on the shore, watching my relentless eldest swim and jump and shriek and run. He let the waves break over him. He dove under them. He even caught a few. Eventually, he collapsed on a towel next to us and lay like a lizard soaking up the sun. He managed to eke out a question before drifting off: “Can we come back tomorrow?”
Ha, I thought. Got him.
See, I get in the water whenever I can. It’s a reset — emotional, physical, spiritual. It’s a literal cleanse. And it can be a balm for what-
ever ails you, be it jet lag, tight muscles from a long flight, one too many margaritas the night before or, say, six days in a car with your mother and little brother. And when you’re sticky with sweat after traipsing, all day, around a brand-new city that feels like it’s mere feet from the sun, it can be the rejuvenating, reinvigorating dip that helps you get back out and explore more. (I’m looking at you, Cartagena, Colombia, and thank goodness for the tiny, perfect rooftop pool at my boutique hotel in the city’s Old Town.)
During a summer I spent in London, denied the easy access to freshwater swimming I was so used to in Canada, I was ecstatic to learn you could swim in a lake in Hyde Park. My flatmates were shocked that anyone would want to. Perhaps my blissful ignorance of what exactly might lurk in London water is what allowed me to enjoy it. Though that may be changing: Inspired by Paris’s Herculean efforts to sanitize the Seine before the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, London mayor Sadiq Khan has vowed to make the Thames clean enough for swimming by 2034. I’m game.
But I’m always game: I’ve swum with whale sharks off the coast of Western Australia, sea turtles near the Great Maya Reef off Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, and surfers off the craggy coast of northwest Ireland. In March. The water was cold then, but nothing compared to Falcon Lake, Manitoba, where I jumped into a pitch-black hole in the ice one January. (Talk about a reset — it felt like my brain got restored to factory settings. You know, in a good way.)
The point is, I seek out swimming wherever I am. And because I’m a water person, taking the plunge in a new place anchors me to it, on an elemental level. I know what it tastes like. I can feel how it moves.
Not everyone’s like me, I know. My husband’s dream destination is somewhere in the woods, or on the side of a mountain, or trekking across some vast tundra. Proximity to water isn’t even a consideration. But I think I did it. I think I recruited someone else to team “water person.” I’m not sure how, or if, my eldest will remember that September swim in Nova Scotia, but I know it’s the day he fell in love with the water.
THE FARTHER YOU TRAVEL, THE MORE YOU MAY FEEL AT HOME.
Your home is not a stationary manmade structure, your home is planet Earth. Experience that familiar feeling in the Polar regions when you’re embraced by the comfort found aboard Le Commandant Charcot. Find new perspectives, change your mindset and discover your place in the world.
What’s on Deck in 2025
By Claire Sibonney
Whether you want to revisit a region with a fresh itinerary or discover something totally new, these five destinations are set to make waves on cruise calendars this year.
Sail Under the Midnight Sun in Alaska
Alaska’s iconic landscapes offer pure theater for nature lovers — watch glaciers calve, spot bears fishing for salmon or simply soak in the magic of the midnight sun. Princess Cruises’ new 22-day Ultimate Alaska Solstice voyage highlights the state’s grand coastal scenery, including hidden fjords and towering snow-capped peaks, and coincides with the longest day of the year (when you’ll experience more than 18 hours of daylight). Oceania Cruises’ 12-day Wilds of Alaska itinerary, by contrast, focuses on more off-the-beaten-path destinations, venturing to ports like Kodiak, where puffins and killer whales thrive, and Homer, with its dazzling wildflowers and vibrant arts community. The itinerary also includes a stop at Klawock, a new port where travelers can engage with Tlingit traditions such as totem carving.
Go in Search of Lemurs in Madagascar
Madagascar’s remote shores and distinct biodiversity make it a fascinating destination for expedition cruisers. Located in the Indian Ocean, the island nation is a haven of misty rainforests, spiny thickets and unspoiled coastlines. It’s the only place on Earth where lemurs live in the wild, and more than 100 species swing through the trees or bound across the forest floor. Madagascar is also home to nearly half of the world’s chameleon species, including several that exist nowhere else. Cruise lines such as Ponant venture to some of the country’s most captivating spots, including Nosy Be, known for its coral reefs and fragrant ylangylang plantations, and the Avenue of the Baobabs, where the mysterious, endemic “upside-down trees” create an otherworldly backdrop to your African adventure. The cruise line’s new 12-day Madagascar & South Africa itinerary also calls in port cities Mahajanga, where a shore excursion may include a visit to the Cirque Rouge sandstone formations, and Toliara, which has a botanical garden with more than 900 plant species.
Let Qatar Wow You
Qatar is quickly becoming a highlight of Persian Gulf cruises, anchored by capital city Doha’s new half-abillion-dollar cruise facility. The striking Grand Cruise Terminal, complete with an art gallery, aquarium and a facade made up of more than 1,100 arches inspired by Arabic architecture, positions the futuristic capital as a key stop on itineraries that showcase the region’s enticing mix of modern luxury and rich culture. In Doha, travelers can explore the lively market of Souq Waqif, marvel at the National Museum of Qatar’s exhibits or enjoy the chic dining and shopping at the Pearl Island, a sprawling development featuring a marina, canals and pedestrian squares. Outside the city, desert safaris include heart-pumping dune rides and evenings at traditional Bedouin camps. On Norwegian Cruise Line’s seven-day Middle East: UAE, Saudi Arabia & Bahrain itinerary, cruisers embark in Doha before visiting five more ports, including Abu Dhabi and Dubai, allowing them to take in some of the Arabian Peninsula’s most spellbinding cities in a single trip.
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In his design for the National Museum of Qatar, French architect Jean Nouvel took inspiration from the desert rose — naturally occurring crystal formations found in the country’s arid landscapes.
Circumnavigate Iceland’s Dramatic Coasts
Few places offer contrasts as stark and as stunning as “the land of fire and ice.” Along the coast, you’ll find black-sand beaches that stretch for miles and glacial lagoons dotted with floating icebergs, all set against rugged cliffs. Exploring the country by ship provides an ideal way to take it all in. Celebrity Cruises’ seven-night itineraries aboard Celebrity Silhouette in July and August 2025 include a new port, Djúpivogur, near the famous Diamond Beach, where chunks of glacial ice gleam on volcanic sands. Other stops, from Reykjavík, with its cool arts scene, to Akureyri (a.k.a. the Capital of North Iceland), which offers easy access to the geothermal mud pools at the base of volcanic mountain Námafjall, highlight the natural and cultural diversity that define this singular island.
Meander Southeast Asia’s Mekong River
If you’ve only cruised the waterways of Europe, it’s time to take on a new continent. In October 2025, Viking Tonle will set sail on its inaugural voyage along the Mekong River, joining its sister ship Viking Saigon, which debuted in 2022. Built specifically for the Mekong, Viking Tonle carries just 80 guests in 40 outside staterooms, each featuring a veranda or French balcony to keep you in touch with the river. The 15-day Magnificent Mekong itinerary combines an eight-day river cruise with multi-night hotel stays in Hanoi, Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City. You’ll be able to wander Hanoi’s colorful alleys and markets, explore the Cambodian temples of Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, take a cyclo (three-wheeled bicycle taxi) ride in Phnom Penh and simply watch life unfold along the peaceful riverbanks.
Sailing the Cyclades
By Hester Underhill
Crystal-clear waters, family-run tavernas and an ocean of Greek mythology: Our writer boards an intimate sailboat for a voyage far from the crowds in the Aegean Sea.
Photos by Marco Argüello
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Whitewashed buildings, like the charming chapel at Agia Anna beach in Amorgos, are a common sight in the Cyclades; the vessel for Intrepid Travel’s Sail Greece: Mykonos to Santorini trip is an 11-passenger Ocean Star 56 sailing yacht, complete with a rich wood interior; lunch at Prekas in Katapola, Amorgos, might include fresh Greek salad and creamy fava dip.
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Sailing the Cyclades leaves lots of time for leisurely afternoons on deck; the waters off Amorgos are famous for their deep-blue hue: In 1988, director Luc Besson shot scenes from his cult film The Big Blue on the island.
“Over there is Delos, birthplace of the goddess Artemis,” says Fotis Angelopoulos, one hand on the steering wheel of an Ocean Star 56 sailing yacht and the other motioning toward a distant landmass rising dramatically from the deep-blue waters of the Aegean. “And that’s Syros,” he says, pointing across the cloudless horizon to another island. “It’s where the god Hermes was born.”
We’re speeding across the water toward Naxos, our sails billowing in the wind as an unseasonably warm October sun beats down on the deck. Around us lie scattered Greece’s Cycladic islands, each with its own striking landscapes steeped in myth. Fotis, a skipper for Intrepid Travel, has been touring visitors across this archipelago for the last five seasons. Ours is an eightday trip, with Fotis — a charismatic figure with a wide smile and tousled curls that have been gently bleached by the Greek sun — ferrying our group of 11 between Mykonos and Santorini. The islands we visit along the way, he tells us, could vary depending on the weather. “Here in the Cyclades, there is a strong north wind we call the Meltemi,” he says, cranking in a thick red rope to tighten the white expanse of outstretched sail. “It means the waters can get quite choppy, particularly in July and August. So, you can only tell a few days in advance which islands will be safe and easy to reach.”
In Greek mythology, the Meltemi was controlled by Boreas, the god of the North Wind. Known for his temperamental nature, Boreas’ capricious moods would often result in turbulent weather and rough seas. Luckily for us, Boreas seems to be in good spirits during our trip, as a calm but persistent breeze propels us between islands.
The Cyclades is a group of more than 200 islands and islets, only 33 of which are inhabited. The archipelago is named after the Greek word kyklos (circle), as they form a loop around the sacred island of Delos, the birthplace of Apollo, god of the sun, and his twin sister Artemis, goddess of the hunt. Characterized by whitewashed houses, winding streets and blue-domed churches, the Cyclades are famous for their crystal-clear waters, rugged landscapes and postcard-perfect beaches. Among the most iconic
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Aye aye, Captain: Fotis Angelopoulos has been a skipper for Intrepid Travel for the past five years; an afternoon sailing the Cyclades looks like this: read, nap, swim, repeat.
are Mykonos’ Paradise Beach, known for its golden sands and vibrant party scene, and Santorini’s Red Beach, with its crimson-colored cliffs. But it’s not just a haven for sunseekers — the Cyclades are rich in history, dotted with important archeological sites that connect visitors to the ancient civilizations that inhabited them for millennia.
In recent years, however, certain Cycladic islands — namely Santorini and Mykonos — have experienced overcrowding as tourism numbers surge during the peak summer months. In search of tranquility, some visitors are traveling in the shoulder seasons or venturing farther into the Cyclades to discover its lesser-known isles — I’m doing both. On Intrepid’s Sail Greece: Mykonos to Santorini itinerary, we moor for up to two nights on each island we visit, rocked to sleep in our snug cabins by gently lapping waters. On travel days, we set out early (after a breakfast of creamy Greek yogurt and honey), nestling on the padded benches that line the deck and gazing out at the glittering waters and craggy coastlines. When the wind dies down, we spread out across the boat’s wide bow and lazily thumb through paperbacks or take long, sun-soaked naps. We drop anchor in hard-to-reach bays, make picturesque pit stops in small coastal villages and easily nip between remote islets. And with Fotis as our guide, we have our very own insider on hand — an expert in the Cyclades’ remote beaches, off-the-beaten-track tavernas and best spots to catch the dazzling Aegean sunsets.
From Mykonos, it takes us three hours to cross the water to Naxos, the largest of the Cycladic islands. Along the way, we’re joined by dolphins, who dart close to the boat. “I’m still trying to figure out when and why they approach,” says Fotis. “I think it’s about energy. If the boat has a positive energy, you’re more likely to spot them.” Fotis doesn’t come from a seafaring family, and he only stepped on a boat for the first time when he was 25. After hearing about an acquaintance’s sailing holidays, he was inspired to learn himself — and he took to it immediately. He completed training in his hometown of Patras, eventually packing up his life to move to Lefkada, an island in Greece’s Ionian Sea.
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Walkers make their way to the Temple of Apollo, a 10-minute trek from Naxos’ main port, for sunset; early autumn is an ideal time to sail the Cyclades, when the region’s north wind, known as the Meltemi, is gentler; Tavli (Greek backgammon) is the perfect game to play on the Ocean Star 56’s comfortable sun deck.
Fotis spent years proving himself as a deckhand, all while juggling other jobs, before finally graduating to his own vessel. Now, he’s part of a tight-knit community of skippers in the Cyclades. Every port we arrive in, he’s greeted with warm, familial embraces and enthusiastic waves from his fellow sailors. “Sailing is a way to wake up,” he says. “All this connection with nature and the waves, it makes me feel alive.”
Another of Fotis’ passions is Greek cuisine (one of his most cherished possessions is a collection of 15 recipes he asked his grandmother to transcribe before she passed away). Upon arrival at each island, Fotis provides an extensive rundown of where to eat, and which restaurant has the finest wine list, the crispiest fried anchovies or the most succulent oxtail stew. In Naxos, his top recommendation is Axiotissa, an idyllic taverna nestled in a large olive grove. The island is known for its cheeses, and we tuck into generous plates of arseniko, a rich variety made using goat and sheep’s milk, and salty graviera naxou. This is followed by a hearty portion of lamb, slow-baked with local herbs and served with a mound of crisp roast potatoes. We wash it all down with a carafe of semisweet red wine. Believed by some to be the birthplace of Dionysus, god of winemaking and fertility, Naxos regards wine as an important part of its ancient culture, and the island’s tradition of merrymaking is fiercely upheld with a hedonistic carnival that takes place in honor of Dionysus every year before the start of Lent.
From Naxos, we press on to the neighboring Ano Koufonisi — one of the two pint-size islands of Koufonisia — renowned for its clear waters and home to fewer than 400 year-round residents. An enticing expanse of turquoise surrounds the boat when we stop for a swim in the crescent-shaped bay of Paralia Pori. We leap from the deck, equipped with snorkel masks to better admire the small fish that dart around our toes. The next day, we reach the island of Amorgos and drop anchor in the bay of Liveros. It’s the site of the shipwreck of the Olympia, which sank here in 1980, and its vast, rusted form rises like a ghost from the shallows.
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From the teak deck to the padded sun beds, the sailboat offers a variety of vantage points for soaking in the Cyclades; it’s just 350 steps to reach the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Hozoviotissa on Amorgos; swimming in the crystal-clear waters off the side of the boat is a must while sailing the Aegean Sea.
We sail along the island’s coast, reaching the port town of Katapola in time for lunch. As usual, Fotis has a suggestion for our midday meal. “Prekas is a very old and special place,” he says, motioning toward an unassuming seafront kafeneio (café). “Mrs. Zoe is the cook. She prepares two or three special dishes every day, so just go in there and ask what’s on the menu for today.” Prekas opened its doors in the 1960s, and its interiors remain frozen in time: The bluepainted walls are lined with maritime memorabilia and the floors are covered in a mosaic of patterned tiles. Mrs. Zoe is hunched over her pots and pans in the kitchen, and her thickly mustached husband comes over to take our order. The specials for the day, he informs us, are gemista (rice- and herb-stuffed tomatoes) and moussaka — which we dutifully order alongside a serving of rich, buttery fava (yellow splitpea dip) and crispy saganaki (pan-fried cheese).
Pleasantly stuffed, we make our way up to the island’s old town, wandering its narrow warren of bougainvillea-strewn alleys before heading inland. The road twists its way across a mountainous terrain that rises and falls before spilling out into the shimmering waters of the Aegean. Our destination is the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Hozoviotissa, a whitewashed structure dating to the 11th century that clings uncannily to stone cliffs nearly 1,000 feet above the sea. After scaling the 350-step stone pathway, we step inside the richly decorated, candle-lit chapel. On our way out, a monk dressed in long black robes offers us a small glass of psimeni raki, a traditional spirit flavored with honey, cinnamon and cloves that’s been produced on Amorgos since antiquity.
This reverence for time-honored rituals and the enduring presence of Greek mythology make the Cyclades feel like a place apart. Sailing among its quieter islands is like an odyssey into a past and present so deeply intertwined, it’s easy to lose all sense of time. The only things dictating the days are the gentle rhythms of the sea and the technicolor rise and setting of the sun an experience so soothing that it lingers long after we disembark in Santorini and say farewell to Fotis.
Island Paradise
There’s much more to Puerto Rico than San Juan, sun and piña coladas. On his island road trip, photographer Michael George discovered colorful landscapes, characters and subcultures around every bend.
Photos by Michael George
Words by Dominique Lamberton
The main island of Puerto Rico, situated in the Greater Antilles between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, stretches 100 miles from east to west and 35 miles from north to south. With a footprint of just 3,425 square miles, it’s smaller than the state of Connecticut. Despite its compact size, the range of landscapes found throughout Puerto Rico is vast, from green mountains to verdant mangroves to bubblegum-pink salt flats — and it left photographer Michael George amazed. “I had no idea how different the geographic regions were,” says Michael, who spent two weeks touring the island in its entirety. “Typically, if you’re going from cloud forest to desert, you would expect that to take several hours of driving. But in Puerto Rico, you get these massive changes in biosphere and flora and fauna within an hour.”
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A tubing adventure on the Tanamá River, near the town of Utuado, takes you through a 1,000-foot-long cave; on the northeast coast, La Pared Beach is a popular spot for surfers.
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El Yunque National Forest’s Mt. Britton Trail and Tower is a great place to start your trip: “You can see across the entire island,” says photographer Michael George.
Puerto Rico’s 270 miles of coastline are as varied as its interior topography — and offer something for everyone. “The coast is incredibly diverse, whether you want to surf, dive or hang out on the beach,” says Michael. The island’s southwest corner features a desert-like landscape (technically, a dry coastal forest), which gives way to limestone cliffs at Cabo Rojo before breaking off into the sea — be sure to walk to Faro Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo, a stately gray lighthouse with bright-green window shutters. Farther up the west coast, the town of Aguadilla attracts all manner of water-sports enthusiasts who come to take in one of the island’s best surf breaks. But it also has an artistic side, and is home to the Museo de Arte de Aguadilla y del Caribe’s small but significant collection of Puerto Rican art. The creativity extends to Cerro Cabrera, where houses were painted as part of artist and urban planner Samuel González Rodríguez’s macromural project, Pintalto. “You can walk into the neighborhood to see the murals and get lost wandering the tiny streets,” says Michael.
Cabo Rojo, the island’s most southwestern point, is known for its jagged, towering limestone cliffs; Aguadilla’s Cerro Cabrera neighborhood received a colorful makeover in 2018, courtesy of the Pintalto project, which is all about transforming communities through art.
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A 30-minute drive east of San Juan is Loíza, the island’s hub for Afro-Puerto Rican culture. The town dates to the 16th century, when it was settled by members of the Yoruba tribe who were originally brought to the island as slaves. It was here that Michael met Sheila Osorio, a passionate advocate for the preservation of Puerto Rican culture, specifically the traditional music and dance genre, bomba. “It’s a fun thing to watch because it’s like improv,” says Michael. “The dancer and the percussionists play a sort of game with each other, speeding up or slowing down, and it’s all about the music and the dance interconnecting.” In Loíza, visitors can also see artisans crafting vibrant vejigante masks, worn at local festivals, and munch on frituras — fritters made from indigenous ingredients such as cassava and plantains — at roadside stands. “I loved that as I went around the island, not only did the topography change, but I was dropped into these different subcultures,” says Michael. “People don’t realize how special Puerto Rico is until they see it.”
Puerto Rico’s west coast, is a favorite among locals thanks to its cave-like rock formations that provide shelter from the sun.
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Sheila Osorio runs Taller de Bomba N’Zambi, a dance school offering beachside bomba workshops, in Loíza; Peña Blanca beach, near Aguadilla on
South Korea’s Walkable Isle
By Lisa Kadane
Jeju Island’s bucolic walking paths meander past waterfalls, volcanic cones and countless farmers’ fields, encouraging all who wander them to slow down and smell the buckwheat.
Jeju Island
Along the Jongdal-ri Seaside Walk on Jeju Island, squid hang drying side by side from ropes, a line of translucent cephalopods that seems to stretch the length of the mile-long pathway. From our seat across the street, my husband and I begin to count them — our very own squid game that keeps us entertained as we tear tender pieces of ojingeo gui (grilled dried squid) and dip them into a sauce of mayonnaise and gochujang, South Korea’s ubiquitous fermented red chili paste. We stop counting at 450 squid, give or take.
The popular snack is grilled to order at rest areas like this one along Jeju Island’s coastal roads. If we’d been driving, we would have zipped right past. Today, though, we’re walking part of the Jeju Olle Trail, a 271-mile pathway that circles the island in a series of interconnected hiking routes.
We’re the only hikers taking a break at Mokhwa Rest Area, the halfway point on the Jeju Olle Trail’s Route 1, on the island’s east coast — surprising, given that hiking is a national pastime in South Korea, where two-thirds of the population own hiking boots and trekkers pack the trails on weekends and holidays, kitted out in technical gear.
South Koreans are equally passionate about Jeju, a volcanic island about 50 miles from the mainland in the Korea Strait: More than 12 million South
ROUTE 1
ROUTE 6
JEJU OLLE TRAIL
ROUTE 8
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Blue and yellow markers direct walkers to a seaside pathway (left) or to the trail up Seongsan Ilchulbong crater (right); scores of squid dry in the sunshine along Jeju’s coastline; free-diving haenyeo work with only a mask and a knife, plunging as deep as 30 feet to forage for fresh seafood.
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Many Jeju Olle Trail routes run from oreum (volcanic cones) to badang (the sea); Jeju’s volcanic origins make for dramatic landscapes across the island.
Koreans (about a quarter of the population) visited Jeju in 2023, along with about 710,000 international tourists. That’s a lot of traffic for an island roughly the size of Maui — and, like the Hawaiian island, Jeju enjoys a temperate, subtropical climate, enticing sand beaches and a volcano that dominates every backdrop. In fact, the entire island is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site thanks to diverse volcanic features such as underground lava tubes and Hallasan Mountain, the country’s tallest peak.
Though seaside trails tramped by the island’s haenyeo (female free divers who traditionally foraged seafood to sell) and village alleyways have long existed, they weren’t a cohesive hiking network. Myung Sook Suh, a journalist who was born and raised on the island, came up with the idea to connect the narrow walking paths into the Jeju Olle Trail. In 2006, suffering career burnout, she set out on the French section of the famous Camino de Santiago walking route that spans parts of France and Spain, seeking reflection and renewal. As she trekked for days halfway around the world, Suh longed for the coastal landscapes of her childhood, and a dream took root.
“I began to imagine a trail that would encompass all of Jeju’s wonders — its mountains, seas, forests and villages — woven into something extraordinary,” says Suh. She returned to Jeju and set to work.
Jeju Olle Trail Route 1 opened in 2007, with subsequent routes following every few months. The paths vary in length and difficulty, and the final one, Route 21, was completed five years later, in 2012.
Visitors once concentrated around Jeju City, the commercial center packed with restaurants, clubs and museums, and a few prominent attractions such as Seongsan Ilchulbong, a volcanic crater whose steep, scenic trail to the rim is a tourist magnet. These days, they spread out and explore more of the island, limiting overcrowding and supporting sustainability, says Eun-joo Ahn, CEO of the nonprofit Jeju Olle Foundation, which develops and maintains the trail network. Some 90 percent of Jeju’s top stops are found along or near trail segments, says Ahn, so it’s easy to walk entire routes while sightseeing.
Since my husband and I love to explore on foot, these routes are the perfect antidote to the crush of people at sites like Seongsan Ilchulbong. Route 1 ends at the foot of this popular spot, in a quiet cove where haenyeo demonstrate their skills, often surfacing with abalone, conch, octopus and urchins. The adjacent Haenyeo Divers Resting Lounge serves up their catch in steaming bowls of abalone porridge and, this time, we eat elbow-to-elbow with others.
On the south coast we walk parts of three Olle Trail routes near Seogwipo, the island’s second-largest
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Hikers at the summit of Hallasan Mountain, South Korea’s tallest peak at 6,388 feet; a variety of lengths and difficulties mean there’s an olle for hikers of all levels; Route 10-1 rings Gapado Island, where traditional rock walls border fields of barley; one of the largest Buddhist temples in Asia, Yakcheonsa is named for a nearby mineral spring, or yaksu
city. We mist-bathe at Jeongbang Falls, Asia’s only waterfall that plummets directly into the sea. We admire Jusangjeollidae, a cliff of hexagonal basalt columns pummeled by frothy waves. And we queue to have our picture taken in front of Oedolgae, an offshore volcanic sea stack that was a filming location for a popular K-drama.
The sights themselves are busy, but the olles leading to and from remain quiet. The peripheral pathways lead us to gems like Jaguri Park on Route 6 in Seogwipo, with whimsical public art installations — such as a pair of giant mosaic crab sculptures that seem to pinch at an offshore volcanic cone. Along Route 8 we wander into Yakcheonsa Temple, a Buddhist shrine. While my husband pauses to meditate, I wander the manicured gardens, communing with the dol hareubang: These smiling, hat-wearing “stone grandfathers” carved from the island’s porous volcanic rock are believed to ward off evil spirits. Like Jeju’s haenyeo, the dol hareubang have become a symbol of the island, and visitors can encounter both along the Olle Trail.
Jeju’s history of agriculture and fishing is on display everywhere: a rural tapestry of fallow and fertile fields with the sea — and the promise of a freshly-caught meal — always on the horizon. “The trail,” says Ahn, “was envisioned as a journey where travelers could find solace in Jeju’s unspoiled landscapes while
gaining a deeper understanding and appreciation of the island’s rich heritage.”
On Route 1 we pass farms separated by low fences of basalt rock called doldam. Though we walk by tidy tangerine orchards and gardens bursting with blue and purple hydrangeas, it’s the pretty white blossoms of one of the island’s top crops, buckwheat, that perfume the air. We pause often, using an app to identify everything we encounter: barley, potatoes, honeysuckle, Japanese cedar, maidenhair fern.
Ahn says that to truly understand Jeju, visitors must “venture beyond the surface-level checklist of tourist spots seen from a car window.” All our island highlights — the flora discoveries, the fields of buckwheat, the tasty grilled squid — come while on foot.
On our final day on Jeju Island, we walk onto the sand at Woljeong Beach, which borders a seaside pathway on Route 20. We come prepared, wearing swimsuits under our clothes, and can’t resist plunging into the clear, crisp seawater.
After toweling off, I watch a group of South Koreans learning to surf on the beach’s gentle break. They notice me and become self-conscious, but I start cheering each time one of them successfully stands on their board. Soon everyone’s smiling and laughing, and then we’re standing again, too, ready to tackle one last leg of the Jeju Olle Trail.
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Honeymoon House, a café on Route 6, offers views of the ocean and of nearby Jeongbang Falls; carved from Jeju’s volcanic stone, the dol hareubang — or stone grandfathers — are said to stand guard over the island’s villages.
Fables, fire & ice
Sail with Princess to the North and step into the life and lore of Viking culture on a journey fi t for legends. Cruise through Norway’s dramatic ords, catch the magic of the Northern Lights, unwind in Iceland’s geothermal springs and wander through 4,000-year-old lava fi elds on your epic Nordic adventure. And (unlike the Vikings), you’ll enjoy total bliss every day with Princess’ legendary service. Adventure, discovery and a little Viking spirit — what’s not to love?
Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.
YOUR KEY TO PARADISE EXCLUSIVELY FOR CARNIVAL GUESTS – OPENING SUMMER 2025
Now — for the first time ever! — we’re building a new destination from the ground up. Celebration Key, nestled on the south side of Grand Bahama Island, is designed exclusively for Carnival guests. It’s perfect for adults, families with kids… everybody who is looking for the ultimate tropical paradise and a variety of experiences. Get your clients ready for unique island-style fun, relaxation, and adventure spread across 65 acres and five “portals” for them to explore. Each portal features unforgettable experiences like a mile-long white sand beach, the largest freshwater lagoons in the Caribbean†, local Bahamian flavors, a private beach club, excursions, and more.
WHERE NEXT
Iguaçú Falls, Brazil
Located on the border between Brazil and Argentina, the Iguaçú Falls attract more than a million visitors every year. The 275 vertical drops make it the world’s largest waterfall system, and at 1.7 miles across, it is wider than both North America’s Niagara Falls and Victoria Falls in Africa.
For the most spectacular (and immersive) view, head to the platform overlooking Devil’s Throat, Iguaçú’s largest waterfall — just remember to bring a change of clothes. On page 66, our expert shares more on how to incorporate this and other natural wonders into your Brazilian itinerary.
Victoria
BRITISH COLUMBIA
Visitors come to this Vancouver Island city to be immersed in natural beauty — and they stay for the relaxed vibes, smalltown charm and a dining scene that draws on the richness of the surrounding forests and ocean.
By Sarah Musgrave
You might say that Victoria is aging in reverse: It’s getting younger, hipper and more upwardly mobile as the years go by. The picturesque capital of British Columbia was long the city of the “newly wed and nearly dead,” where nightlife was set on low and polar fleece on high. Now, with a booming tech industry and real-estate market, the demographics are changing — just ask Harry and Meghan, who spent a winter here a few years ago. Yet it’s still a compelling gateway to all the gorgeousness of the Pacific Northwest, with its driftwood beaches and lush rain forests. From cushy spas to a buzzier-than-ever culinary scene, there’s a sense that Big Nature is never far away — in fact, it’s welcomed in. Sure, you can still order afternoon tea in a Victorian mansion, but take one sip of a spruce-tip cocktail and you get the current vibe: outdoorsmopolitan
Morning
On Vancouver Island, all roads lead to the sea — and that includes bike paths. I’m cruising past the spectacular flower beds of Beacon Hill Park, a 183-acre expanse that’s manicured in the front, wild in the back, where it joins the rocky shoreline. There, marine biologist Amanda Swinimer of Dakini Tidal Wilds is waiting to give me a tour.
“I thought dolphins were my jam,” says Swinimer, “but then I discovered seaweed.” She spends her days as a professional mermaid, snorkeling, sustainably harvesting and educating people about an underwater universe to be discovered and tasted. Hair whipped by the sunny breeze, Swinimer explains that everything in the ocean, from tiny zooplankton to orcas, relies on seaweed for nutrients — and that this region has the greatest cold-water seaweed diversity on the planet.
I sample a few species of these “environmental superheroes,” which also
have benefits for human health: nori, impossibly stretchy when wet, sea lettuce with an energizing chlorophyll boost, and mellow-flavored dulse (my personal favorite). Amanda shows me disc-shaped rainbow wrack seaweed that goes iridescent when wet, and feather boa kelp that she tosses around her neck, ready for a night out. Her hand-harvested winged kelp and bull kelp are supplied to local distilleries like Sheringham Distillery, which makes a world-renowned gin, as well as to top restaurants in the city.
For a bigger taste of the goods, I head to Finest at Sea, a nearby boutique and food truck that serves up top-notch fish and chips with halibut, sockeye salmon, lingcod or sablefish — all caught by local fishermen. I dig into kelp pakoras, delicate green inside and served with a sparky mint chutney, while looking at the colorful floating homes of the postcard-cute Fisherman’s Wharf.
01 Some 650 kinds of seaweed grow in the nutrient-rich waters where Amanda Swinimer harvests wild kelp.
02 The Rose Garden, one of Beacon Hill Park’s many highlights.
03 Brightly colored floating homes are moored at Fisherman’s Wharf.
OPENING PAGE British Columbia’s Legislative Assembly Building greets all who arrive via Victoria’s Inner Harbour.
ARTFULLY AUTHENTIC DISCOVERY
French Polynesia’s Destination Expert
As the sun shines across a turquoise lagoon, decisions must be made. Will you go ashore to hike vanilla-scented forests? Dive in to snorkel marine-rich waters? Perhaps you'll take in the tropical tranquility from your stateroom balcony, or relax on a pristine stretch of sand on our private beach. Aboard the casually elegant m/s Paul Gauguin, the choices are yours to do as much or as little as you please.
Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.
Afternoon
Victoria may be growing fast, but its historic center is easy to get to know. I wander into Munro’s Books, a treasure trove of Canadian and current literature. Taking in the coffered ceiling of this neoclassical building, I get why it’s often listed among the world’s most beautiful bookstores. Around the corner, the Mark Loria Gallery displays Indigenous art from dozens of Northwest Coast artists, including the mesmerizing work of Haida and Tlingit sculptor-painter Robert Davidson. A few blocks away, I’m shimmying along narrow Fan Tan Alley in Victoria’s Chinatown, the oldest in Canada, when I notice the Umbrellatorium, a shop dedicated to the must-have Vancouver Island accessory.
But my real afternoon indulgence is the Magnolia Hotel & Spa, a small luxury property where street-level doors swing open into a cushioned, instantly chill interior. The discerning on-site spa uses organic products from Australian wellness brand Endota for its Rest & Restore massage, which envelops me with gentle scents and touch. My practitioner, Akane, was born in Japan, studied in France and wound up in Victoria “because it’s so beautiful,” we say in unison. The treatment finishes with Endota’s Clove & Mint Recovery Balm. I feel cocooned and deeply connected to pure nature. Not so pure, though, that happy hour isn’t calling my name — and, fortunately, the Magnolia has a map for that! The hotel curates trails for best-in-Victoria wellness, breweries and, yes, cocktails.
04 Cutting through Canada’s oldest Chinatown, Fan Tan Alley is less than three feet wide at its narrowest point.
05 Yagis (Sea Monster), by Kwakwaka’wakw artist James Taylor, hangs at the Mark Loria Gallery.
Evening
My first stop is the clean-lined bar of the Magnolia’s own Courtney Room, and my first request is Potatoes Courtney — duck fat is the not-so-secret ingredient in these crisped batons. I balance that decadence with Peter Rabbit-worthy crudités from Littlest Acre Organics and Square Root Farm. It’s clear that local bounty inspires the menu, sensitively executed by the restaurant’s award-winning chef, Brian Tesolin. From the hand-illustrated seasonal cocktail list, I order a mocktail for a change: sparkling spruce juice for invigorating evergreen, blended with grape verjus from the Okanagan and lemon oil.
The sun is setting as I peek into Wind Cries Mary and Clive’s Classic Lounge, two premium cocktail purveyors, on my way to the newest hot spot in town, Marilena Café & Raw Bar. In many ways, the story of its
executive chef mirrors the ambitions of the city itself: Kristian Eligh grew up here, worked as a dishwasher, earned his stripes at top Vancouver kitchens and returned to Victoria to raise the bar. He’s not just an accomplished chef, he’s also an avid free diver — there’s no better pairing of qualities in someone serving you fine seafood. Nor is there a better setting to enjoy it than this dramatically lit space, showcasing dishes like crispy-skinned black cod with homemade XO sauce, exquisitely torched hamachi and burrata with local balsamic. Eligh shows me the daringly open kitchen (“Nowhere to hide!”) and glinting wine cellar, and observes the seafood towers in his busy dining room with a smile. “I really wanted to come home,” he says. After a day of sheer bliss, this home never looked so good.
WHERE TO STAY
FAIRMONT EMPRESS
Traditional, trendy and oh-so-tulipy, the Empress has presided over the Inner Harbour since 1908. The lobby’s massive hand-cut crystal chandelier sets a tone for whimsical elegance across the 431-room property, and guests are invited to dress for teatime, the better to enjoy a selection of premium teas and dainty snacks — all served on gold-edged china.
Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.
06 Happy hour in the Courtney Room, where local ingredients inspire decadent, yet simple, food and drink menus.
07 Marilena Café & Raw Bar serves up striped bass on yu-choy, cured pork and mushroom. PHOTOS:
EPIC LANDS. SUN-SPLASHED SEAS. LEGENDARY VOYAGES
Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details
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Uncover Brazil’s Natural Wonders
From the beaches of Rio de Janeiro to the Amazon rainforest’s flying rivers, our local expert highlights some must-sees in this strikingly biodiverse country.
By Robert Liwanag
01
What surprises people most when they visit Brazil?
The Brazilian lifestyle, especially in Rio de Janeiro. Whether you visit Copacabana Beach, Sugar Loaf, bars or restaurants, everything happens on the streets, not indoors. And the locals come alive during the day, rather than at night. Brazilians enjoy life and are probably the global experts when it comes to organizing parties.
02
Which destinations should firsttime visitors prioritize seeing?
Combining Rio with the Iguaçú Falls, which straddle the border with Argentina, is a classic itinerary. The Iguaçú Falls are even more impressive than Niagara Falls, and Rio is a wonderful way to start or end a trip to Brazil. Visitors can also consider a stay in São Paulo. It’s the New York of South America — a metropolis with amazing museums and gastronomy.
Nuno Verissimo
MANAGING DIRECTOR OF COMPASS BRAZIL
Verissimo first entered the travel industry in 1994. Since 2018, he has been the managing director of Rio de Janeiro-based Compass Brazil, which creates custom and exclusive travel experiences across the country.
Contact your advisor to learn more about the experiences available from Compass Brazil.
03
Where are the best spots for immersion in nature?
The Pantanal in southern Brazil is the largest tropical wetland in the world. The best way to experience it is on a river cruise. I visited in August and spotted 14 jaguars and more than 100 species of exotic birds. Then, there’s the Amazon rainforest, which is home to a natural phenomenon called “flying rivers” — massive amounts of water vapor from the forest moving across the sky.
04
Is there a hidden gem that water enthusiasts should check out?
Lençóis Maranhenses
National Park is one of the most unique ecosystems on the planet, where white-sand dunes border freshwater lagoons. Watch the sunrise on the dunes, then go kitesurfing in the lagoons, followed by horseback riding. Visit from May to September, when the lagoons are full of water — there’s no other place like it.
ABOVE
Covering 600 square miles, the ecosystem of Lençóis Maranhenses
National Park is shaped by three of Brazil's six major biomes: the Cerrado, Caatinga and Amazon.
PHOTO:
WE’RE CHANGING THE GAME AGAIN
Introducing a new ship that excels into a class of its own. Celebrity XcelSM combines the greatest hits of our Edge® Series—including all your favorites—with entirely new experiences that will change the game all over again. Making its debut in the Caribbean in November , Celebrity Xcel will take the tropics to breathtaking new heights. In the meantime, stay tuned as we reveal more exciting details over the coming months, from visionary new spaces to delicious new food and drink concepts.
When you plan your Celebrity cruise with your Ensemble travel advisor you can expect personalized service, experienced and knowledgeable travel experts and when booking a veranda or above enjoy an exclusive $100 shore excursion credit per stateroom.
Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.
Hong Kong
There’s no shortage of urban dazzle in Hong Kong, where the glamorous cityscape makes for a dynamic pre- or post-cruise stay.
By Wing Sze Tang
Among Hong Kong’s many superlatives is its abundance of skyscrapers — the densest concentration of any city — shimmering over its singular harbor. The former British colony has all the cosmopolitan diversions you’d expect, from artsy districts to emerging mega-landmarks (including Go Park Sai Sha, an enormous multisport playground). But there’s a quainter character to the destination, too: Alongside all that’s shiny and new, you’ll find traditional flavors, nostalgic fun like the still-running “ding ding” (page 70) and laid-back outlying islands within easy reach. You can revel in Hong Kong’s bright lights and big-city energy, then slip away to its calmer, natural corners for a breath of fresh air.
FAST FACTS
Currency
Hong Kong dollar
Languages
Cantonese and English
Tipping
Tipping is uncommon, but some restaurants add a 10% service charge.
Temperature
Average daily highs of 66°F/19°C (January) to 89°F/32°C (July). Typhoon season runs from May to November.
214 BCE
The Qin dynasty makes what’s now Hong Kong a part of the Chinese empire.
1842
After the first Opium War, Britain scoops Hong Kong Island in a peace deal. China later cedes Kowloon Peninsula and leases the New Territories.
1997
British rule ends and Hong Kong becomes part of China once again.
2010–19
Hong Kong is the world’s most visited city, according to Euromonitor International.
HISTORY
HONG KONG
CAN’T MISS M+
Opened in 2021 as a key attraction in the West Kowloon Cultural District, the M+ museum keeps its eye on contemporary visual culture (current exhibitions focus on the couturier Guo Pei, and photographers Yasumasa Morimura and Cindy Sherman). The building — shaped like an upside-down “T” — is a sight to behold, too. Before you leave, head to the rooftop garden, where you can gaze upon the city from the museum’s harborfront perch.
TAKE A WALK
Ride up to famous Victoria Peak, but don’t just stop for a quick photo op: The Peak Circle Walk, a lush 2.2-mile looped path, offers even more vistas from Hong Kong Island’s loftiest point.
EAT THIS
Chee Cheong Fun
They’re simple yet craveable, as street-food snacks should be: silky, steamed ricenoodle rolls doused in hoisin and peanut sauces, plus a sprinkling of sesame seeds.
Roast Goose
Not to be mistaken for roast duck, the local specialty is noted for its crispy skin, luscious fat and tender meat, often served over rice or noodles.
Pineapple Bun
There’s no tropical fruit here — the name is just a nod to this bao’s crosshatched crust. Order yours with a pat of butter in the middle for extra richness.
DID YOU KNOW?
Yes, Hong Kong is an island — but it’s also an archipelago of more than 250. While many are uninhabited, around a dozen outlying islands are day-trippable by ferry service. Lantau Island, the largest, is home to Hong Kong Disneyland and the hilltop Tian Tan Buddha, while Lamma Island lures visitors with its chill vibe, hiking trails and lovely beaches.
THE SOUVENIR
Get in the game with Glocal Mahjong, where the goods range from travel-ready mahjong sets (pictured) to quirky tile-print socks. The company, co-founded by an architect, is in PMQ, a browsable hub of indie shops and studios in a historic building (once the living quarters of police officers).
NEW IN TOWN
Go Park Sai Sha
Now in soft-launch mode, the city’s latest entertainment draw is a mega-project designed by Zaha Hadid Architects. Located north of the city center, Go Park Sai Sha includes a 24,000-squarefoot arena for concerts and competitions, and a sprawling multisport park, complete with golf driving range, cycling track ready for pro races, soccer field, tennis courts, pickleball stadium and outdoor rock climbing, plus a shopping mall.
DRINK LIKE A LOCAL
Hong Kong Milk Tea
A strong and sweet pick-me-up, this staple drink mellows out intensely steeped black tea — traditionally poured through a hosiery-like filter — with evaporated or condensed milk.
LOCAL LINGO
Ding Ding
HK$3 will get you a ride on Hong Kong Island’s cheapest tour: an iconic, authentically retro double-decker tram, dubbed a “ding ding” because of its signature double chime.
ENJOY THE VIEW
Time your evening cruise on the Aqualuna junk boat for a two-in-one spectacle: the glittering skyline of Victoria Harbour and the nightly Symphony of Lights multimedia show that illuminates the towers.
WHERE TO STAY
Grand Hyatt Hong Kong
In the bustling Wan Chai district, this upscale hotel offers 542 elegant rooms and suites, plus 12 restaurants and bars, with One Harbour Road serving up wok-fried lobster and other refined Cantonese classics. There’s also a 24-hour gym, heated outdoor pool and a dedicated spa, where the deep-pressure Hong Kong Massage offers solace after all that sightseeing.
InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong
Wake up to quintessential skyline views of Victoria Harbour from this water’s-edge hotel on the Kowloon side. Guests have access to three restaurants (book afternoon tea with a harbor view at the Mistral), a 24-hour gym, a rooftop pool — and plenty of retail therapy within a quick walk. Off the lobby, Tiffany’s New York Bar is an award-winning magnet for the city’s whisky fans, stocked with more than 250 bottles.
Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at these properties.
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BOOK NOW AND YOU’LL RECEIVE AN ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE $200 ONBOARD CREDIT ON SELECT SAILINGS!*
PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.
San Juan, Puerto Rico
As you explore Old San Juan, be sure to take in the Batería Santa Elena, a fortification built under Spanish colonial rule. Photo grapher Michael George visited at sunset and discovered locals using the open space around it to fly kites. “On weekends, you can see what seems like hundreds flying at once,” he says. “It’s magical — and adds to the already stunning scene.”
PHOTO: MICHAEL GEORGE. TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON.
Yes, I’m now *that* person who summers on the Med…
Give yourself the luxury of an extended European getaway — basking in the Barcelona sun or unwinding amidst the islands in the Aegean.
Virgin Voyages’ 7-12 night European itineraries on our kid-free, award-winning boutique lady ships sail from Barcelona, Athens, and Portsmouth and are ready to welcome you on board for a lifechanging trip.
PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.
Travel Better
Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor .
