ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 Jan. 29–Feb. 4, 2016
Winter Salads on
D11
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(Clockwise from top) Wild boar shank, mackerel with lemon purée, fried calamari with saffron aioli, crostino with “peperonata” and anchovy, roasted vegetables, and farfalle with chanterelles and leeks.
A Temple to Wine Wine Disciples is a game changer for wine worshippers
B
y all accounts, every wine lover should hightail it over to Wine Disciples—your palate will be delighted, your stomach will thank you, and your wallet will heave a sigh of relief. When it opened six months ago, Wine Disciples changed the landscape for oenophiles and foodies alike. The idea of a restaurant, Wine Disciples Enoteca, with an adjoining shop, Wine Disciples Shop, is simple enough. But Wine Disciples has the rare synergy of thoughtful, sophisticated food with lesser-known, interesting wines—including a large selection of organic wines. The standout feature, however, comes from owner Michael Coll’s past experience as a restaurant wine director. He was routinely
approached by diners in restaurants asking where they could buy the fabulous wine they had just tasted. But it wasn’t as simple as sending them down to the local wine shop. Often they were wines that couldn’t be found in wine stores. One of the biggest insider secrets in town—a secret that Edinburgh-born Coll is happy to let out of the bag—is that while the Enoteca has an extensive wine list of its own, you can drop by the Wine Disciples Shop, buy some fantastic wine, and then bring it over to the Enoteca to savor, along with some great food if you fancy.
See Temple on D2 Fennel panna cotta with sesame and saba.
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Wine Disciples Enoteca
129 W. 29th St. (between Sixth & Seventh avenues) 212-239-4199 winedisciples.com winedisciplesenoteca.com Hours Monday–Friday 5 p.m.–midnight Saturday Noon–4 p.m. 5 p.m.–midnight Sunday Noon–4 p.m. 5 p.m.–11 p.m. Weekday lunch starts Feb. 8: Noon–4 p.m. The dishes are inspired by Italian cuisine, with a sensibility toward organic, biodynamic, and locally sourced ingredients.
A Temple to Wine Wine Disciples is a game changer for wine worshippers
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Temple continued from D1 Here’s why it’s a steal: A bottle of wine that retails for $75 would cost $150 at any other restaurant. At Wine Disciples you BYOB from the shop for $75 and pay a basic corkage fee of $25. That’s a bargain compared to the normal wine markup in restaurants, where it’s sold at three to four times its wholesale value. “I want people to explore. I’ve kept the prices lower than you’d expect to encourage people to be adventurous and to try that bottle that’s new or interesting to them,” Coll said. And every Sunday the wines on the Enoteca wine list are sold at retail prices. The Dining Experience Coll’s vision always paired food with the wine, “You can’t talk about wine without talking about food. They go hand in hand historically and culturally,” he said. Reflecting the wine selection, the food sensibility is toward organic, biodynamic, and locally sourced ingredients—as close to farmto-table as one can get in the middle of Manhattan. There is also a marked sophistication to the dishes that is beyond most wine bars. By New York standards, the Enoteca is expansive, with plenty of elbow room, soaring ceilings, a beautiful pewter bar, and a rustic feel that emanates from the reclaimed wood in the tables and massive doors. The star motif, reflected in the tiles, reprises the striking Wine Disciples logo. “The meaning of the eight-pointed star is harmony and balance, which is what wine is about,” said Coll. “It also means rebirth and regeneration and speaks to the cyclical journey of the vine throughout the year; from budding to harvest to dormant in the winter.” Taking its inspiration from Italian cuisine, the Enoteca’s menu puts seasonal ingredients at the forefront. Simpler items, such as crostini with a Maine sardine, would be mediocre and boring with anything less than excellent ingredients. In this case the silvery sardine is butterflied—the tail and head left on—with the outline of its body perfectly matching the bread underneath. Both fish and bread are of the same thickness too. The sardine is gloriously rich and deep in flavor. The more composed dishes often consist of only about three or four main ingredients. Unlike many menus that fall back on predictable flavor combinations, the combinations here
are unexpected but also sophisticated. Diners will enjoy the subtle way that bitterness finds its way into some dishes. Radicchio, for example, bears some subtle bitterness tempered through grilling. Slices of grapefruit add bittersweet notes, while pine nuts, sweetened, add a gentle texture, and mint brings a fresh, herbal note ($12). Most noteworthy is mackerel, with a crispy skin, paired with a lemon purée that takes you straight to the Mediterranean ($14). Lush and velvety, it has a salty-sour-bitterness from the preserved lemons, and adds brightness to the intensity of the mackerel. Smoky tender octopus, for its part, gets paired with pomelo, set against creamy yogurt with crunchy cubes of fennel ($16). Olives are slowly dried in the oven, giving them the texture of nuts—a real surprise. One of the pleasures of perusing the wine shop beforehand is that it’s like a physical stroll through a wine list. When the elegant Coll walks through and points out his favorite bottles, he can’t help but touch each with a knowing, appreciative hand. To stand up to the sturdy flavors of the mackerel and lemon dish, Coll points to a wine that matches in robustness—Gaia Muscadet from Belle Vue from the Loire Valley. “The Gaia Muscadet is more robust in flavor and broader on the palate. You also need a good amount of acidity to cut through the fat of the mackerel.” To pair with the radicchio salad, Coll suggested a wine that has a “softer, slightly unctuous fruit component [with] … solid underlying acidity and minerality” to balance the sweet and bitter flavors of the dish—like the Derthona Timorasso from Valli Unite in Piedmont, for example. “Something that basically surrounds the flavors and ushers them across the palate,” Coll said. “Even something gently sparkling that’s not too dry would go very well with that.” If it sounds complicated—it’s not, he said. “A lot of people try to make it a complicated, difficult thing. It’s not really, especially if you know what’s in here [the bottle] and what’s on the plate, you’re going to know whether it’s going to work.” Wine education—through tastings, classes, dinners with winemakers, a virtual sommelier app, and of course face-to-face—is something Coll is eager to offer. People experience wine differently, Coll explained—whereas one person might physiologically be able to detect certain notes (think
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Diners share a laugh over wine and food at Wine Disciples Enoteca.
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January 29–February 4, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Mackerel with a lemon purée made with fresh and preserved lemons.
Wild boar shank with candied walnuts, served over silky polenta.
Seasonal Fare The beauty of a seasonal menu is getting to appreciate ingredients at their peak. And yet sometimes, it is sad to see the dishes you love disappear off the menu. One such dish for me was the housemade garganelli, a cut of pasta that takes time to make on account of it first being cut and then wrapped around a textured wooden dowel. This garganelli dish had somewhat of a surprise element, because it advertised capers, sultana raisins, and cauliflower. There was the emanating aroma of cauliflower but it was nowhere to be seen. The capers were present to be sure, fried, crunchy, salty, and then there were the raisins—not sweet, but tasting more capery than the capers themselves, owing to having been soaked in caper brine. And then beneath the garganelli, was the seared cauliflower—delightfully nutty, soft, and crunchy on top of a purée of cauliflower ($18). It’s at this point you realize that as serious as the title Wine Disciples might be, there is indeed, as Coll insisted, a certain playfulness about the place. Cue in a luxuriously rich dish you could imagine a hunter in a fairy tale forest tucking into after a long day—a wild boar shank of enormous proportion cooked in duck fat (the boars come from Texas, I was told), covered in delectable little pieces of candied walnuts and set on top of silky polenta ($28). Or fancy a surf-and-turf? Don’t look for steak-and-lobster here. Instead there’s a meaty red snapper side by side with salty, punchy, umami-packed oxtail (and no wonder, as it’s made with fish sauce caramel) and a bed of juicy, crunchy red cabbage with a bright basil flavor ($30). There was nothing nostalgic about dessert. It was all about pulling you into the present: a fennel panna cotta—looser than most panna cotta— topped with shards of sesame brittle and a drizzle of saba, a syrup made from cooking and reducing grape juice and reminiscent of reduced balsamic vinegar. Fresh and satisfying, it provided a perfect ending to the meal ($12).
UPCOMING EVENTS You can’t talk about wine without talking about food. They go hand in hand historically and culturally. Michael Coll, owner, Wine Disciples
Feb. 6 Free Wine Tasting Drop by to taste up to 50 new wine selections, 1 p.m.–4 p.m. Feb. 8 Wine Classes Start Led by instructor Dylan York, whose highly interactive classes are often sold out. Topics include Find Your Palate (Feb. 8, Feb. 14, and Feb. 27); Islands & Volcanoes (Feb. 13); Degrees of Flavor (Feb. 22 and March 12). Each class runs two hours. $75 per class. Private event space with a rustic wine country feel available for dinners and receptions. Accommodates 10–40 people. For more information, see winedisciplesenoteca.com Farfalle pasta with chanterelles and leeks.
Coll keeps wine prices lower than expected to encourage people to be adventurous and try out interesting wines.
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wine notes that mention leather, blackberries, or obscure aromas), another person may not be able to detect all of them but may detect others, making wine appreciation a highly individual matter of perception. When I pressed him about particular recommendations for some dishes, Coll came up with a profile rather than a specific wine. He’s more interested to do the detective work to find out what people like, and most of all keen to help people find their own preferences. The first of the wine education classes, which starts Feb. 8, is named Find Your Palate. In the back of the shop you’ll find a selection of craft spirits, chosen for the makers’ devotion to their craft: Applejack from Barking Irons and ultra high-end Japanese single malts like Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu’s The Peated. The Contratto Bitter from Italy is what Wine Disciples uses in cocktails rather than Campari, which Coll finds too pharmaceutical in taste. He’s also big on promoting American craft distillers. “It’s harder for [craft distillers] to break through than it was for boutique wineries or even craft brewers making beer. The big names in liquor have so much money and they spend so much on marketing. These guys are small and local, so we try and support their products and definitely their craft and sustainability philosophy,” he said.
Tender, smoky octopus served with pomelo, olives, and yogurt.
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mortons.com Peperonata and white anchovy crostino.
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
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SPARKLING WINES AND OYSTERS Enjoy sparkling wines made in New York, alongside locally harvested oysters. Staff from Brooklyn Oenology and Sparkling Pointe and W&T Seafood will discuss how the wines are made and the oysters farmed. $40 per person.
The New Umami Experience
stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF JIMMY’S NO. 43
Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
Thursday, Feb. 4 7 p.m. Brooklyn Oenology Winery Tasting Room 209 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn slowfoodchampagneoysters.bpt.me
AT THE TABLE WITH LEONARDO DA VINCI The Renaissance Man might have been a foodie and wine lover. Attilio Scienza, co-owner of the Guado al Melo winery in Tuscany, will talk about his research on a vineyard that belonged to da Vinci, as well as the new book, “Leonardo Was Not A Vegetarian,� which  explores da Vinci’s passion for food. The resident chef of La Scuola cooking school will prepare two dishes inspired by da Vinci. $65 per person. Monday, Feb. 8 6 p.m.–7:30 p.m. Scuola Grande at Eataly 200 Fifth Ave. eataly.com
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
CLASSICS with FLAIR
Lechon roasted pork at Jimmy’s No. 43.
SPECIALTY COCKTAILS AND ROASTED PIG FEAST AT JIMMY’S NO. 43 East Village bar Jimmy’s No. 43 is finishing off a weeklong celebration of local New York spirits with a panel discussion of the new book, “Forager’s Cocktails: Botanical Mixology with Fresh, Natural Ingredients.� There will be samples of brandy, whiskey, mescal, and more. The following day, the bar will be serving bloody marys with “lechon,� Filipino-style whole roasted pig, with rice and greens on the side.
THE ART OF CHAMPAGNE Learn the nuanced tastes of Champagne at the French Institute. Experts from wine retailer Millesima will introduce their favorite bottles and teach you how to pick the perfect bubbly for different occasions. The Champagne will be paired with canelÊs from CanelÊ by Celine. This is the first of a four-part seminar series on French wines. $115 per person. Monday, Feb. 8 Le Skyroom at French Institute Alliance Française (FIAF) 22 E. 60th St. fiaf.org
Saturday, Jan. 30 & Sunday, Jan. 31 Saturday: 1 p.m.–4 p.m. Sunday: 1 p.m.–10 p.m. Jimmy’s No. 43 43 E. Seventh St. jimmysno43.com
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
KIDS IN THE KITCHEN WITH DOMINIQUE ANSEL At the recently opened Museum of Food and Drink (MOFAD), children aged 7 and older can learn how to make chocolate sauce with pastry chef Dominique Ansel. He will also demonstrate how to make unique confections and each child will create his or her own custom-flavored concoction to take home. $15 per child (adult companions get in for free). Sunday, Jan. 31 11 a.m. MOFAD 62 Bayard St. mofad.org
THE EDDY CHEF POP-UP Chef Brendan McHale of the East Village restaurant The Eddy is hosting a pop-up event with Joint Venture, the chef pop-up project that organizes events in restaurants around the city. The special multi-course tasting menu will feature winter produce from the Hudson Valley, including grilled oysters, smoked fish, pastrami beef tongue, and more. $75 per person.
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COURTESY OF LA NUIT EN ROSE
THE ART OF ‘BIEN CUIT’ BREAD Zachary Golper, chef–owner of the celebrated Brooklyn bakery, Bien Cuit, will discuss his baking secrets with food writer Peter Kaminsky. He’ll talk about the artisanal food scene and what it’s like running his bakery. $25 per person. Tuesday, Feb. 2 7 p.m. 92Y 1395 Lexington Ave. 92y.org
RosĂŠs for tasting at La Nuit en RosĂŠ.
LA NUIT EN ROSE WINTER EDITION RosĂŠs are not just for the summer. The organizers behind La Nuit en RosĂŠ are holding a garden party with unlimited tastings of more than 50 different rosĂŠ wines. Food from restaurants like BLT Prime, Don Antonio Pizza, Toloache, and Butter and Scotch will be served. $85 to $165 per person. Feb. 5 & 6 Location to be disclosed nuitrose.com
ICE WINE FESTIVAL AT BROOKLYN NAVY YARD The first commercial rooftop vineyard in New York City, Rooftop Reds, is hosting the Ice Wine Festival, featuring wines from top producers in New York state. Located in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, the vineyard boasts incredible skyline views, and will also display an ice sculpture garden. Other local spirits will be served, such as hot toddies and mulled wine. Food pairings will also be provided. $50 per person ($80 for VIP tickets). Friday, Feb. 5 & Saturday, Feb. 6 Brooklyn Navy Yard 63 Flushing Ave., Brooklyn rooftopreds.com
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BROOKLYN COCKTAIL: A HISTORY
THE MEATBALL SHOP The big game will be screened at the Chelsea and Williamsburg locations, which will also serve special Pizza Balls that day. If you prefer watching the game at home, the Meatball Shop has a takeout special: 25 meatballs and a sauce of your choice for $50.
Brooklyn has become a hub for distilleries, and some of the best mixologists in town also hail from the borough. The Brooklyn Historical Society explores the history of drink making in Kings County, with a panel of mixologists, historic gastronomist Sarah Lohman, and drinks writer David Wondrich. $12 per person.
Sunday, Feb. 7 The Meatball Shop Chelsea 200 Ninth Ave. The Meatball Shop Williamsburg 170 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn themeatballshop.com
Thursday, Feb. 11 7 p.m. Brooklyn Historical Society 128 Pierrepont St., Brooklyn brooklynhistory.org
BITTEN: A FOOD CONVERSATION This daylong conference features a roster of guests making breakthroughs in the food world. They will discuss food trends, technological innovations, and tackling food waste, among other topics. Speakers include Adam Eskin, founder and CEO of farmto-table chain, Dig Inn; co-founder of Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant, Claus Meyer; executive vice president of the James Beard Foundation, Mitchell Davis; and Niki Russ Federman, owner of the iconic smoked fish shop Russ and Daughters. $300 (includes breakfast and lunch). Friday, Feb. 12 Museum of Jewish Heritage 36 Battery Place thisisbitten.com
KELSO TAPROOM MYSTERY BOTTLE SHARE For beer lovers, KelSo brewery hosts a fun game every Thursday. The brewers open up mystery bottles (beers with their labels removed) and let people guess the style: porter, stout, Scottish strong ale, and many more. If you guess correctly, you’ll get a discount. Home brewers are also welcome to bring their creations to get constructive advice from the professionals. Free, but must RSVP.
The Meatball Shop’s Bucket O’Balls takeout special.
BLACK TAP CRAFT BURGERS AND BEER
Sunday, Feb. 7 Black Tap at Meatpacking District 248 W. 14th St. blacktapnyc.com
Sunday, Feb. 7 4 p.m. Paulaner 265 Bowery paulanernyc.com
THE GANDER COURTESY OF THE CANNIBAL
Enjoy great food and drink while you watch the big game on Sunday, Feb. 7. At chef Jesse Schenker’s The Gander, game day staples like wings, sliders, ribs, and beer will be served for an all-you-caneat-and-drink price of $65 per person. Sunday, Feb. 7 4 p.m. The Gander 15 W. 18th St. thegandernyc.com
COURTESY OF AMERICAN CUT
SUPER BOWL FESTIVITIES
The Cannibal’s hot dogs.
THE CANNIBAL BEER AND BUTCHER
CRAVE FISHBAR
Crave Fishbar Upper Midtown East 945 Second Ave. Crave Fishbar Upper West Side 428 Amsterdam Ave. cravefishbar.com
This German pub is kicking off the party with beer pong, games, and keg specials. For food, order the party platter, which includes a footlong sub, chicken wings, German meatballs, mini-sliders, chili-stuffed peppers, spicy nachos, and potato skins. Of course, there will be beer, cocktails, and shots served at the bar.
Watch the game while munching on Black Tap’s beloved burgers, along with its menu of fries, onion rings, and wings. Black Tap will also create a special Super Bowl-themed milkshake.
Thursdays 5 p.m.–7 p.m. KelSo Taproom 529 Waverly Ave., Brooklyn eventbrite.com (search “KelSo Tap Room”)
Crave Fishbar is renting out space for private Super Bowl viewing parties. At the Midtown East location, a party of 40 or more people can reserve the room and get a buffet of sliders (made with meat from purveyor Pat La Frieda), nachos supremo, oyster po’boy sliders, homemade cavatelli, carnitas tacos, and crispy Thai wings. A four-hour open bar is included. $100 per person (40 people minimum). At the Upper West Side location, you can rent out the entire restaurant for a minimum party of 60. $100 per person.
PAULANER
American Cut Wings with lobster sauce.
AMERICAN CUT Chef Marc Forgione’s steakhouse is hosting a “tailgate party,” with specials like NYC Pastrami Spice Subs; American Cut Wings with chili lobster sauce; Tater Tots; and Sunchoked Spinach with fontina and smoked salt. The open bar will serve specialty cocktails and pastry chef Tara Glick will prepare desserts. $150 per person. Sunday, Feb. 7 American Cut 363 Greenwich St. americancutsteakhouse.com
This meat-centric restaurant will serve a special Super Bowl menu with offerings like Pig’s Head Nachos, Hot Wings, and Baby Back Ribs. In-house beer and whiskey will also be served. Sunday, Feb. 7 The Cannibal 113 E. 29th St. cannibalnyc.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
IT IS OUR DELIGHT TO SERVE YOU SIMPLE, ELEGANT, BEAUTIFUL, JAPANESE MASTERWORKS TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
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9 Hacks to Help You Drink Better Wine by Drinking It Better By Michelle Locke Aiming for a new and improved you in 2016? That’s tough. Improving your wine experience? That’s not hard at all. Because if you want to drink better wine, the first step is drinking wine better. To help you get the job done, we asked the pros for their best wine drinking hacks that will make you a better person (or at least a better drinker).
Whether young or old, a wine improves when exposed to a little air.
Add a Touch of Glass Use clean, clear glasses with a good stem, said Campanale, who hosts the weekly “In the Drink” program on Heritage Radio Network. He uses Bordeaux-shaped glasses (your basic red wine glass) for “pretty much all wine, including Champagne.” The stem plays an important role—keeping your fingers from warming the wine. Age Wisely Drink most white wines young, said Gordana Kostovski, general manager and sommelier/beverage director of the Volver restaurant in Philadelphia. And these days many red wines are made ready to drink on purchase, too. Big red wines, on the other hand—think French Bordeaux—may need a little more time. Wondering how long? That’s a hard question
Develop a Bubbly Personality “Drink more bubbles,” is the advice of Andy Myers, master sommelier and wine director for Washington, D.C.-based chef Jose Andres’s ThinkFoodGroup. His pick, Raventos I Blanc “De Nit” rose from Spain. And skip the flute, said Kosovski. Serve bubbles in a coup or regular wine glass.
INA PETERS/ISTOCK
Learn by Degrees Aim for a middle ground when it comes to temperature. Good reds taste better with a little chill on them and good whites taste better when they’re not ice cold, said Joe Campanale, co-owner and beverage director for Epicurean Group, which includes the NYC neighborhood restaurants dell’anima, Anfora and L’Artusi. So if a red wine isn’t being pulled from a temperature controlled cellar or wine refrigerator, put the bottle in a refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes (or until slightly cool to the touch) before serving, said Jessica Pinzon, wine director of the Napa Valley’s Miminashi restaurant. “Wine shows more acidity and minerality at a cooler temperature, and more fruit and alcohol at a warmer temperature. Experiencing the transition of (wine) warming up in the glass will enhance your understanding and enjoyment of the wine,” she said.
to answer since wines vary. You can ask for clues at the wine shop, or sometimes the label or wine website will offer suggestions.
Decanting opens up the fruit flavors and eases the tannins in wines.
Dare to Decant Decanting a wine is good all around. Whether young or old, a wine improves when exposed to a little air (which occurs naturally when pouring the wine from the bottle into a decanter). And careful pouring also means you leave any sediment in the bottle. “Decanters aren’t just for somber, candle-lit ceremonies to separate the sediment out of venerable, old bottles,” said David Kravitz, certified master sommelier and beverage director of The Smith Restaurants in New York. “Young, inexpensive wines are often improved with a good, hard splash decanting. Oxygen will open up the fruit and ease the tannins.” Note: If you’ve got a decanter gathering dust at the back of the cupboard, now’s the time to use it. If not, simply pour the wine into a clean pitcher or vase, said Pinzon. And don’t limit this to reds, she said. Champagne, white wine, or rose can benefit from decanting, too. Pick Savvy Storage Store wine on its side and in contact with its cork, said Kostovski. And if you’ve got a wine refrigerator, keep it in there at 55 F. If not, look for a spot in a basement or closet that’s shaded from heat and light. Organize your wine and know what you have so you don’t forget it and leave it too long. And, said Kostovski, think about investing in a Coravin, the device that allows you to sample wine repeatedly without pulling the cork. Having friends over for dinner and plan to open a nice, older bottle of wine? Stand the bottle upright (ideally at cellar temperature, or somewhere between 50 F to 64 F) for a couple days before the dinner party, advised
Pinzon. This allows any sediment that may have settled in the shoulder of the bottle to settle at the bottom instead, making serving or decanting cleaner and more ideal. Prime That Wine Drinking two wines at dinner out of one glass? Don’t rinse the glass with water to make the change, said Chloe Helfland, sommelier at Bazaar Meat in the SLS Hotel Las Vegas. Once the glass is empty, pour in a little of the second wine, swirl it, dump the rinse and you’re ready for a proper pour. Shop Smarter There’s no hacking a really bad wine. Campanale recommended going to a good wine shop to get a head start. If you find a wine you like, make a note of the producer; you’ll probably like some of their other wines, too. Relax Learning about and developing an appreciation for wine is interesting, but don’t make it a chore. “Have fun and enjoy the wine; pair it with food and friends,” recommended Kostovski. And while you’re swirling and sipping— but not while pouring—try closing your eyes. “Feel the wine through your senses,” she said, “Wine is romantic!” From The Associated Press
Staying Home on Valentine’s Day Is Easy With These Scallops AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
By Alison Ladman This Valentine’s Day, take a pass on the expected. As in, ditch the restaurant reservations. You’re just going to get overcharged for so-so food, anyway. Instead, stay home and show your loved one how much you care by assembling this simple—but impressive—baked scallop dinner. The beauty is that this recipe—which bathes scallops in a cream sauce and tops them with crispy panko breadcrumbs—is easily prepped up to 24 hours ahead, then refrigerated until you are ready to serve. When you are ready for romance, just heat the oven to 400 F and pop the individual servings in for about 10 minutes. The result is impressive enough that you won’t miss the restaurant experience even a little. Just add some crusty bread and a salad and you’ll have a complete meal. From The Associated Press
See D8 for more Valentine’s Day recipes.
RECIPE BAKED BAY SCALLOPS WITH LEMON GARLIC CREAM Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves: 2 • • • • • • • • • •
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon butter, melted Kosher salt 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon lemon zest Ground black pepper 1/2 cup heavy cream 2 cups (16 ounces) bay scallops, cleaned (any tough muscles removed)
DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, butter, a pinch of salt, and the Parmesan. In another small bowl, combine the thyme, garlic, lemon zest, a hefty pinch of black pepper, and the cream. Divide the bay scallops between 2 individual gratin dishes. Pour half of the cream mixture over each dish of scallops, then sprinkle each evenly with the breadcrumbs. At this point, the scallops can be wrapped and refrigerated for up to 24 hours or baked immediately. When ready to bake, heat the oven to 400 F. Place the gratin dishes on a baking sheet. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cream is bubbling all over and the crumbs are browned.
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thai
Openings around town
the modern
ACME Is Reopening as a Contemporary Bistro
experience
COURTESY OF ACME
ACME has reopened, transformed as a contemporary bistro. The new executive chef and partner is Brian Loiacono, who was formerly executive chef at Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro Moderne. “We were looking for a chef that could create a menu that we’d want to order from every night,â€? said one of the partners, Jon Neidich, in a press release. “When we met Brian, we instantly knew he was our guy. His food is that great mix of soulful and satisfying, and it fits what we’re trying to do at ACME perfectly.â€? Reflecting Loiacono’s Italian-American upbringing and classic French training, the menu features dishes such as Black Bass with Burnt Orange & Oregano, and Skirt Steak with Caramelized Endive, and homemade pastas including Loiacono’s Veal Agnolotti with Salva Cremasco & True. Dev Johnson of Employees Only curated the cocktail list; Wine Director Nicole
THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY! 4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE
Hakli, formerly of The Nomad and Eleven Madison Park, oers restrained Old Worldstyle wines. Open daily from 6 p.m.
9 Great Jones St. (at Lafayette Street) 212-203-2121 acmenyc.com
FREE DELIVERY
10 BLOCK RADIUS
Lilia Lilia, the anticipated new restaurant from chef Missy Robbins, is now open in North Williamsburg, focusing on the lighter side of Italian cooking. “Italian cooking runs the gamut, from hearty ragouts to cured meats and recipes passed on for generations.� Robbins said. “In preparing to open Lilia, I realized that some of my favorite dishes were the simplest and lightest—the simply grilled fish, the classic pastas where the ingredients are the stars, the roasted vegetables.�
Robbins oers takes on Italian classics like a Cacio e Pepe Fritelle; Pappardelle with Veal Bolognese, Porcini, and Nutmeg; and Grilled Clams, Calabrian Chili, & Breadcrumbs. A small takeout cafe, open daily at 7 a.m., will serve housemade pastries, frittatas, and sweet and savory focaccia. Afternoons will feature pastries, cookies, sandwiches, soft serve gelato, until 5 p.m. when the space becomes an intimate cocktail bar. Open daily.
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists
567 Union Ave. (at North 10th Street) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-576-3095 lilianewyork.com
NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun
Empire Steak House COURTESY OF EMPIRE STEAK HOUSE
A second location of Empire Steak House is now open in Midtown East in a setting that was once an opera house. The indulgent menu features oerings such as a Jumbo Shrimp, Lobster Cocktail, Seafood Platter; a Tomahawk Steak, Cajun Bone-in Rib-eye Steak, and the classic Porterhouse; as well as imported A5 grade Wagyu Rib-Eye. The beverage selection includes wine, cocktails, and notably over 100 single malts.
AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
151 E. 50th St. (between Third & Lexington avenues) 212-582-6900 empiresteakhousenyc.com
The newest restaurant from the TAO Group is Vandal, a 22,000-square-foot space that showcases globally inspired street food in a setting featuring the work of renowned street artists. Chef–partner Chris Santos and his executive chef Jonathan Kavourakis traveled to 14 countries to sample street fare. It resulted in a menu of small plates including Crunchy Jicama Shell Tostadas (with butternut squash, avocado, crispy kale, salsa verde), Chicken Katsu & Hong Kong Egg Waes, and Greek Donuts (with honey ice cream, candied pistachio). Cocktails are divided into Sweet, Savory, and Barrel-Aged categories. A series of dining rooms supports sitespecific art installations. HUSH, Shepard Fairey, Apexer, Tristan Eaton, Eelus, Vhils
HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,*
Are You a Smart Restaurant Owner?
and Will Barras contributed to the murals in the project. Open daily from 5 p.m.
A new restaurant opens every day in New York City,
199 Bowery 212-400-0199 vandalnewyork.com
HOW DO YOU STAND OUT? Do what our fabulous clients did and partake in our smorgasbord of offerings to grow your customer base!
Island Burger & Shakes COURTESY OF ISLAND BURGERS & SHAKES
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, popular burger spot Island Burger & Shakes has just opened its third and largest location in Morningside Heights. Over 64 variations of burgers and chicken sandwiches are available. Diners can also build their own. Highlights include the Gianni burger with roasted red peppers, bacon, and parmesan spread on a ciabatta and the Napalm burger, served with barbecue sauce, jalapeĂąos, cheddar, and habanero. Island Burger & Shakes sources ingredients from purveyors such Pat LaFrieda, Sullivan Street Bakery, and Eli Zabar Breads. Sauces and spreads are made in-house.
Bar & Restaurant
COURTESY OF VANDAL
Vandal
v{iv}
3147 Broadway (between La Salle & Tieman Place) islandburgersandshakes.com
We have increased sales and we’re getting new customers. Mie Okuda, owner and chef, Momokawa
Interested? GET IN TOUCH!
advertisenow@epochtimes.com 212-239-2808
Epoch Times • 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5 • New York, NY 10001
D8
@EpochTaste
January 29–February 4, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Oysters Are Perfect for Romance
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Mignonette
—to Eat at Home By Sara Moulton
O
ne of Valentine’s Day’s enduring customs is to launch the annual Feast of Love with a dozen raw oysters on the half shell washed down with a chilled bottle of bubbly. The briny bivalves have long enjoyed a reputation as an aphrodisiac. Most of us indulge our love of oysters at a restaurant, if only because we’re daunted by the prospect of buying, shucking and serving the little devils at home. But it’s not nearly as complicated as rumored. And it’s certainly much more affordable to undertake this operation at home. Oysters are more popular than ever these days. There are abundant varieties available from coast to coast, almost all of them sustainably farmed. Ideally, you’ll buy your oysters at a seafood market with a high turnover. But if you’re land-locked, don’t worry. There are plenty of good sources online and the little fellers don’t suffer when they’re shipped. What do you look for when buying oysters? Heft. A heavy oyster is one that is fresh, plump, and juicy, and it hasn’t been sitting around for too long. The shells must be tightly closed; an open oyster is a dead oyster. Buy your oysters right before you head for home, and if that’s not
Most of us indulge our love of oysters at a restaurant. But it’s not nearly as complicated as rumored.
Keep your nonshucking hand covered in the kitchen towel at all times.
MAKSUD_KR/ISTOCK
Ginger Wasabi
Cocktail Sauce
possible, ask for a bag of ice to keep them cool during the journey. The oyster needs to breathe, so be sure that the fishmonger has punched a few holes in the bag holding the oysters. Once you get them home, take the oysters out of the bag and store them in the coolest part of the refrigerator with the curved shells face down in a bowl covered with a wet towel. When the moment has come to shuck the oysters, which should be shortly before you’re ready to serve them, pull out your tools: an oyster knife and a thick kitchen towel or two. Also, pull out a platter and line it with crushed ice. (I simply pulse some ice cubes in the food processor, but fresh snow works well, too.) Briefly rinse and scrub the oysters, then shuck them. To help you with this part, I have given detailed instructions below. Make sure to keep your non-shucking hand covered in the kitchen towel at all times; it’s easy to slip and cut yourself. What kind of sauce goes with raw oysters? If you asked my dad, who’s been eating oysters for a million years, he’d say none or, at most, a spritz of lemon. But plenty of other folks love them dipped in mignonette, a simple vinegar sauce. And here I’ve provided two others: a Japanese-style ginger wasabi sauce and an American-style cocktail sauce. How about the wine? Champagne, a good dry one, is perfect, especially on Valentine’s Day. But if you’re not a fan, try another dry white, such as a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Or take a tip from the French and reach for the muscadet. Whatever you pour, don’t sweat it. Love will be in the air. How to Shuck Oysters You will need an oyster shucking knife. They are readily available at kitchen shops and online.
Line a platter with crushed ice. Make one or all three of the sauces and set them aside. For two people, plan for 12 to 24 oysters. To shuck the oysters, start by folding a thick kitchen towel several times. Place an oyster into the opening between the folds of the towel, leaving the hinge side of the oyster facing out. Use one hand to grasp the oyster in the towel and hold it in place on a cutting board flush with the edge of the counter, which makes it easy to apply downward pressure. Insert the tip of the knife slightly to the right or left of the oyster’s hinge and gently work it into the shell. Don’t force the knife; if it doesn’t slide easily into the place you’ve chosen, try another place. When you finally feel a little give, nudge the knife in further, then push straight down on the knife handle and pry open the top oyster shell just as you would the lid of a can of paint. If the top shell still doesn’t become loose at the hinge, twist the knife a quarter turn so the blade is facing up, and try again to loosen the hinge. The top and bottom shells are now unhinged at the end, but a muscle keeps the oyster itself attached to the middle of the top shell. To sever this muscle, insert the blade between the shells, loosen the edges, then slide the knife from one end of the oyster to the other, which should cut the top muscle and detach the top shell. Almost done. Lift off the top shell and carefully remove any shell fragments that have fallen onto the oyster. Then stick the knife under the oyster and cut it loose from the bottom of the shell. Put the oyster in its shell on top of the ice, making sure that it lies flat so that none of its juices spill out. Repeat with the remaining oysters, then serve with the sauces below. From The Associated Press
RECIPE ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts
57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Asian Fusion Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.
15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
COCKTAIL SAUCE If your supermarket does not sell fresh horseradish, you can substitute bottled horseradish. Just omit the vinegar called for in the recipe. Combine the bottled horseradish with the remaining ingredients and stir well.
Uncle Ted’s Chinese
Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Makes: 1 cup
Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
• 3 tablespoons finely grated fresh horseradish • 3 tablespoons white vinegar
163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN
MIGNONETTE If your supermarket does not sell fresh horseradish, you can substitute bottled horseradish. Just omit the vinegar called for in the recipe. Combine the bottled horseradish with the remaining ingredients and stir well.
Prep & Cooking Time: 40 minutes (10 minutes active) Makes: about 1/2 cup • 2 tablespoons minced shallots
RECIPE
(btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
GINGER WASABI SAUCE
QUEENS
403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com
Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings
Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, let the grated horseradish stand for 5 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and the salt, then add the ketchup, chili sauce, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and hot sauce, to taste. Stir well.
RECIPE
Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
• Pinch kosher salt • 1/3 cup ketchup • 1/3 cup Heinz Chili Sauce (or similar brand) • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce • Hot sauce, to taste (optional)
If you have prepared wasabi in a tube, you can substitute that for the powdered mixed with water.
Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Makes: 1 cup • • • •
2 teaspoons wasabi powder 2 teaspoons warm water 1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar 2 tablespoons minced shallots
• 1 tablespoon coarsely cracked black pepper • 1/2 cup red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, Champagne vinegar or cider vinegar • Hefty pinch kosher salt • Hefty pinch sugar
DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, combine all ingredients and stir well. Cover and chill for 30 minutes before using.
• 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger • Kosher salt
DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, combine the wasabi and water. Mix well, then let stand for 5 minutes. Add a few tablespoons of the vinegar and whisk until the wasabi paste is thinned and smooth. Add the remaining vinegar, the shallots, ginger, and a hefty pinch of salt. Serve right away.
D9
@EpochTaste
January 29–February 4, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Doing Valentine’s Day Right With Have-It-Your-Way Doughnuts
A little flower of NYC " $ ! $ " ' $ ! " $' #$
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
By Alison Ladman Most everybody loves fresh, warm doughnuts. But most everybody doesn’t love the hassle of making those fresh, warm doughnuts. It’s a messy process that involves making a dough that can be temperamental. Who has time for that on Valentine’s Day? So we’ve created a method of making doughnuts that takes the temperamental out of the equation. You start with a dough—we’ll get to your choices in a moment—that you buy at the grocery store. Next, cut it and fry it. It’s way easier than it sounds, especially since you aren’t fussing with making the dough. Now just top the doughnuts with something fun. You can even make it a project you do with your partner. Or it can be a fun activity to do with kids (the toppings, not the frying). To start, you’ll need to select your ingredients. You’ll need dough, oil and toppings. Let’s start with the dough. Pick any of the following—tubes of flaky biscuits, homestyle biscuits, or cinnamon buns. All of these can be found in the refrigerated section of the grocer, usually near the dairy. If you’d like to make raised doughnuts, you can find loaves of raw white bread dough in the freezer case. Just thaw the dough overnight in the refrigerator, then let warm to room temperature before using. If you go for a biscuit or bun dough, simply unroll and separate them. For bread dough, roll it out to 1/2 inch thick, then use 3-inch cookie or biscuit cutters to cut rounds or rings from it. For the frying, you’ll need about 4 cups of oil. Peanut oil or grapeseed oil are great choices, but canola will work, too. It’s also handy to have an instant or candy thermometer. This makes it much easier to monitor the temperature of the oil. To fry, fill a large, deep pot with 1 to 1 1/2 inches of oil. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350 F to 375 F. Adjust the heat to maintain this temperature. Place a cooling rack over a rimmed baking sheet and set near the pot of oil. When everything is ready, fry your doughnuts in batches of 3 to 4, being careful to not overcrowd your pan. The doughnuts will take about 3 minutes per side. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to carefully turn each doughnut over, cooking until deep golden brown. Transfer the finished doughnuts to the prepared rack to drain. Repeat until you’ve used all your dough, allowing the oil to return to the proper temperature between batches.
Piccolo Fiore 230 E. 44th St. (btw 2nd & 3rd avenues)
( ! ! !" NYC !
ALL NATURAL ORGANIC YOUNG CHICKEN BROTH NO MSG•EVERYTHING HOMEMADE Hinata’s Special
Black Garlic Ramen
100% VEGAN RAMEN
Only During Winter
Also Available
For a quick dough, try tubes of flaky biscuits, homestyle biscuits, or cinnamon buns.
Give your doughnuts crunch with chopped pretzel pieces or another favorite snack.
Glazing Once the doughnuts are fried, it’s time to glaze them. • Simple vanilla glaze: Whisk together 1 cup powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon milk and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.
• Chocolate glaze: Heat 1/2 cup heavy cream in a small bowl in the microwave until simmering. Add 3/4 cup chocolate chips and stir until completely melted. • Caramel glaze: Heat 1/4 cup heavy cream in a small saucepan with 1 cup caramel candies over medium-low heat, stirring until smooth and melted. • Peanut butter glaze: Heat 1/2 cup heavy cream in a small bowl in the microwave until simmering. Add 1 cup peanut butter chips and stir until completely melted.
&
Healthy Natural
HINATA RAMEN
From The Associated Press
OPEN 7 Days M-F 11:30am-11:30pm Sat 12:00pm-11:30pm Sun 4:00pm-11:30pm
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) , 212.355.2974
Toppings While the glazes are still wet, sprinkle any of the following (or whatever inspires you) over them: • Cap’n Crunch cereal • Cocoa Pebbles cereal • Froot Loops cereal • Crumbled cooked bacon • Chopped dried banana chips • Toasted coconut flakes • Chopped, toasted nuts • Shaved chocolate • Slivered crystallized (candied) ginger • Chopped dried fruit • Candy sprinkles Suggested Combinations • The Elvis: peanut butter glaze, crumbled bacon, banana chips • The Chocolate Bomb: chocolate glaze, Cocoa Pebbles, shaved chocolate • The Turtle: caramel glaze, toasted pecans, shaved chocolate • The Tropical: vanilla glaze, chopped dried pineapple, crystallized ginger, toasted coconut • The Black Forest: chocolate glaze, dried cherries, drizzle with vanilla glaze
Mention EPOCH and Get One FREE Topping
An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu Shochu & sake Exceptional value
Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel
Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) (212) 581-1581
Serious Hot Pot Seriously Addicting
Authentic Sichuan “mala tang� will leave you craving more and more. The PERFECT Lunch Spot
Do Valentine’s Day Your Own Way With Chai Spice Trues By Meera Sodha Valentine’s Day can throw the best of us into a wild panic. How to show the one you love the way you feel without succumbing to cliches? You know what I mean—booking a table at a romantic restaurant for the set steak dinner with a side of heavy breathing couples, or buying a bunch of roses on the way home. Always lovely, but never original. Best to avoid both, in my opinion. What everyone wants is to feel like they’re being thought about or cared for. For me, making something for someone does exactly that because it’s a simple act of love. It need not be a pudding flambe or an Eie Tower-high croquembouche, just something special. These chai spiced chocolate trues are
perfect. They are dark and dense orbs, made using good quality 70 percent dark chocolate infused with cream and the gorgeous sweet spices ordinarily used in chai, including ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves. They can be made in advance, then refrigerated, leaving you more time to spend with your loved one. They are perfect eaten after dinner and with a little dessert wine or just nibbled slowly all by themselves. They don’t just have to be for your partner, either. Valentine’s Day is fast becoming a time to appreciate everyone you love—father, mother, siblings, and friends.
Customize your Hot-Pot with meat or seafood. We also offer a spicy Dried-Pot stirfry. Not a fan of spicy? We have a soup for you! Now you dont have to go to Flushing for a taste of Sichuan flavors. Check us out in Midtown
Manting
150 W. 49th St. 646-921-7777
BE DELIGHTED. BE AT SONGKRAN.
From The Associated Press
RECIPE CHAI SPICE CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES Prep & Cooking Time: 2 hours, 25 minutes (25 minutes active) Makes: 48 • • • • • • • • •
8 ounces dark chocolate, roughly chopped 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground dry ginger 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 cup cocoa powder
DIRECTIONS Set the chocolate in a medium bowl. Set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium, combine the cream and butter. Heat until the butter melts and the cream starts to bubble. Be careful not to burn the cream. Pour the hot milk mixture over the chocolate, whisking to melt the chocolate until you have a smooth mixture. Add the cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and sugar. Mix well, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until firm. To make the truffles, place the cocoa powder in a bowl to one side. Using a melon baller or small cookie scoop dipped in hot water, scoop out a little of the firm chocolate mixture and shape into a ball. To coat, roll around in the bowl of cocoa powder until well covered. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Fish Green Curry
Lunch ✴ Dinner ✴ Delivery ✴ Catering For Reservations / Catering Orders Call 212-239-8792
SONGKRAN Homestyle Thai Kitchen 330 8th Avenue • SongkranKitchenNYC.com
NO MSG
D10
@EpochTaste
January 29–February 4, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
REFINED THAI CUISINE at
The Nuaa
Kaffir Lime Infused Cornish Game Hen, with a bowl of coconut rice, roasted Brussels sprouts, and eggplant caviar.
Everything from the artfully plated food to the intricate decor make you feel like you’re being treated to something special.
The Nuaa
1122 First Ave. (between 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 thenuaa.com Hours Monday–Thursday, Sunday 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11:30 am.–midnight
Deliciously Sponsored
H
aving a mother who was head chef at a five-star hotel in Bangkok may have been a harbinger for Pitipong Bowornneeranart’s future. At 12, Bowornneeranart began cooking with his mother, tackling Hainanese chicken first, a classic dish from his mother’s hometown in southern China. Over the years, Bowornneeranart mastered the fundamentals of Thai cooking, learning to extract the flavors of the herbs and spices and incorporate their healing properties into dishes. “I was lucky to have learned everything from my mother,” he said. In college, Bowornneeranart chose to study electrical engineering, so he could help his father run the family’s factory business. After he graduated, Bowornneeranart cooked meals for his younger siblings while his mother was busy managing a restaurant she had opened. That was when he realized just how much he loved the craft. “After my dad stopped the business, I turned to the thing I love ... cooking,” he said. In 1990, Bowornneeranart moved to New York City, absorbing American, French, and Italian cooking techniques while working in large restaurant kitchens. Now, at The Nuaa on the Upper East Side, where Bowornneeranart is executive chef and owner, he combines traditional Thai flavors with Western techniques and presentation. Dishes at The Nuaa are unlike anything that’s served at your typical Thai restaurant. The difference starts with the appetizers. Gorgeous Purple Blossom Dumplings ($13) are delicately handmade by Bowornneeranart to resemble flowers in bloom. The dumpling skins are dyed a vibrant bluish-purple from the butterfly pea plant, with a floral fragrance and a chewy, mochi-like texture that is the result of adding coconut milk to the flour mixture. Chef Bowornneeranart also puts plum sugar in the flour, lending a pleasantly sweet undertone that lingers as you bite into the savory filling: minced chicken, peanuts, and preserved radish. Well-balanced between sweet and savory, these dumplings will amuse your tastebuds. The Panang Curry Braised Pork Shank ($24) shows off the exciting combination of Western technique (braising) with the unrelenting, potent herbs and spices in Thai curries: red chilies, galangal, lemongrass, and ginger among them. Each distinct layer of spice shines through as you taste the tender pieces of meat, soft but with a nice chew. The best part is picking out the bits of collagen, jelly-like and
Chef Pitipong Bowornneeranart.
Purple Blossom Dumplings, dyed purple with the butterfly pea plant. perfect for smothering with the curry, which is drizzled with creamy coconut milk. Bowornneeranart also takes it up a notch in the Crispy Skin Whole Bronzino ($30) by coating the fish with rice crisps before deepfrying it. The effect is like munching on Rice Krispies cereal, with some caramelized cashews for added crunch. The light flavor of the rice allows the sweetness of the fish to dominate, but if you want some piquant freshness, the dish also comes with a green mango salad dressed in a spicy chili-lime vinaigrette. And don’t worry about the bones; the fish arrives at the table completely deboned. The Nuaa is the kind of place you can bring your date—everything from the artfully plated food, to the intricate decor, and considerate service is designed to make you feel like you’re being treated to something special. Even the commonly ordered Thai noodle dish, pad thai, is done with sophistication. The Nuaa’s version comes with a pair of jumbo head-on tiger prawns (Pad Thai Jumbo Tiger Prawn, $19) that are intensely oceanic. These are the most flavorful shrimp you’ll ever taste, with a springy texture that’s amazingly reminiscent of lobster meat. The noodles are similarly toothsome, peppered with dried shrimp for more umami. If you like to spice things up, sprinkle the dish with the chili powder placed on the side; the heat will spread all over your tongue and mouth within seconds. For a unique chicken dish, try the Kaffir Lime Infused Cornish Game Hen ($19), marinated in kaffir lime and Thai herbs for 44 hours. The chicken thus gains the fresh aroma and flavors of the herbs, without overpowering your palate. The dish also comes with a bowl of coconut rice, roasted brussels sprouts, and eggplant caviar, the latter of which is mixed with a fiery nam prik, a Thai chili sauce with garlic, shal-
Pad Thai Jumbo Tiger Prawn. lots, and lime juice. Bowornneeranart said he combined these elements so that the chicken can serve as a complement to the more oily vegetable dishes. Indeed, the garlicky, pungent vegetables are mellowed out when you eat it with the meat and rice. The next time you get a craving for Thai food, consider treating yourself at The Nuaa.
Crispy Skin Whole Bronzino. The intricate decor at The Nuaa makes you feel like you’re being treated to something special.
These quail eggs are sitting on top of buttery brioche sprinkled with black pepper.
Son-In-Law Fried Quail Eggs.
D11
@EpochTaste
January 29–February 4, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com DENNIS CULBERT
Angeline’s Mustard Green and Pork Cracklin Salad.
WINTER SALADS Ways to enjoy the season’s offerings
M
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
aking salads from what’s available in the winter is easier than you may think. “Hearty greens like mustard, kale, and arugula are perfect additions to a salad because of the textures and flavor that they add,” said Alex Harrell, chef-owner of Angeline in New Orleans.
Radicchio and endive are other delicious options. Their bitter edge pairs well with bright winter fruits like citrus, pomegranates, and cranberries, according to cookbook author Heather Christo. Cooked ingredients add more heartiness. Christo suggests adding grains like quinoa or rice to make salads more filling in winter, while chef Brady Cohen favors roasted vegetables. “Roasted broccoli and roasted cauliflower always make a great salad with nuts and cheese,” said Cohen, executive chef at the Salty Sow in Phoenix. As for the dressing, chef Jamie Adams of il Giallo Osteria & Bar in Atlanta likes to make fuller-bodied vinaigrettes for winter salads, with beet liquid, mustard, and red wine. Try the following recipes for hearty, flavorful winter salads:
RECIPE ANGELINE’S MUSTARD GREEN AND PORK CRACKLIN SALAD Serves: 4 For the Cracklins • 1 pound skin-on pork belly • 3 quarts of peanut oil • 1 teaspoon of kosher salt For the Cracklin Spice • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika • 1 teaspoon chili powder • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper • 1/2 garlic powder • 1 teaspoon raw cane sugar For the Butternut Squash Purée • 1 butternut squash, split lengthwise, seeds removed • 1 cup milk • 1/2 tablespoon molasses • 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter • Salt and pepper to taste For the Spiced Pecans • 5 cups pecans, halved • 2 teaspoons salt • 3/4 teaspoon black pepper • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 2 tablespoons brown sugar • 3 ounces unsalted butter, melted For the Pomegranate Vinaigrette • 1 cup POM pomegranate juice • 3 tablespoons honey • 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil • 1/2 cup canola oil • 1 tablespoon minced shallot • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard • 1 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper • 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Venture Into Thailand’s
DIRECTIONS
Spicy Northeast
For the Cracklins In a large bowl, combine all crackling spice ingredients. Stir until well-mixed. Using a sharp knife cut the pork belly into 1-inch cubes. In a deep stock pot, heat the peanut oil to 225 F so that the oil is at least 6 inches from the rim. Add the pork belly and stir immediately to prevent it from sticking to itself. Cook the pork for 20 minutes or until it is golden brown. Remove the pork from the oil and drain on paper towels. Let the pork cool for about 20 minutes. Increase to the oil temperature to 425 F and add the pork again. Cook for about 3–5 minutes until the skin begins to crackle. Remove the cracklins from the oil and toss with the spice mixture.
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ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
For the Butternut Squash Purée Heat oven to 375 F. On a large sheet pan, rub the butternut squash with olive oil and place cut side down on pan. Roast until soft, about 30 minutes. Scoop out the flesh and add it to a blender with the other ingredients. Puree until smooth.
For the Spiced Pecans Heat oven to 400 F. On a large sheet pan, spread the pecans in a single layer. Toast in oven for 10 minutes. In a small bowl, mix salt, pepper, cayenne, and brown sugar. Mix well. In a large bowl, add pecans and melted butter. Toss gently until wellcoated. Add spice mixture and re-toss. Return pecans to the sheet pan and toast in oven for an additional 5 minutes. Store in airtight container.
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
For the Pomegranate Vinaigrette In a small saucepan, add the POM juice. Cook over medium heat until the juice is reduced by half. In a stainless steel bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Whisk until well-mixed.
To Assemble On a dinner plate, spread 1–2 tablespoons of the butternut squash purée. Top the purée with 1 1/2 cups of mustard greens. Sprinkle some of the spiced pecans over top. Make the salad with the desired amount of vinaigrette.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
Finish with 3 or 4 of the pork cracklins. Recipe courtesy of Alex Harrell, executive chef, Angeline, New Orleans, Louisiana
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Winter Salads continued from D11
COURTESY OF HEATHER CHRISTO
Beet Quinoa Salad With Pomegranate, Mint, and Pistachio.
WINTER SALADS RECIPE BEET QUINOA SALAD WITH POMEGRANATE, MINT, AND PISTACHIO
South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Winter is a difficult time to find really fresh produce, so you have to get inventive with what is seasonal and available. Hearty beets are the star of this salad, while the bright, fresh, sweet, and tart pop of the pomegranates not only makes the salad beautiful but elevates the flavors to the next level. Plus the quinoa is so filling, it makes this dish hearty enough to be a main course.
Prep & Cooking Time: 45 minutes Serves: 6–8 For the Quinoa • 1 1/2 cups vegetable broth • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt • 2 cups quinoa For the Beets • 3 purple beets, trimmed • 3 yellow beets, trimmed • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar • Kosher salt For the Salad • 1 cup fresh mint, finely chopped • 1 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped • 2 shallots, finely chopped • 1/3 cup roasted pistachios, roughly chopped • 1/3 cup pomegranate seeds
• Kosher salt
DIRECTIONS In a medium pot over medium heat, bring the vegetable broth and salt to a simmer. Pour in the quinoa and whisk together. Bring the quinoa to a simmer and then put a lid on the pot, reduce the heat to low and let simmer for 20 minutes. Turn the heat off and let the quinoa sit in the pot with the lid on for another 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork and let cool. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and add the beets. Simmer the beets over medium heat for 20 minutes and then drain and rinse the beets under cold water while rubbing the skin off the beets. Slice the peeled beets into wedges and toss with the oil and red wine vinegar, and season to taste with kosher salt. Set them aside. In a large bowl, toss the quinoa with the fresh herbs and the shallots and season to taste with kosher salt. Add most of the pomegranate seeds and pistachios with the quinoa and toss well, then transfer to a bowl or platter. Add the beets around the outside of the bowl or platter, then sprinkle the remaining seeds and nuts over the salad and serve. Recipe courtesy of Heather Christo, chef and author of “Heather Christo’s Generous Table: Easy and Elegant Recipes through the Seasons” and the forthcoming “Pure Delicious: 200 Delectable Allergen-Free Recipes” (April 2016) COURTESY OF IL GIALLO OSTERIA & BAR
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RECIPE PICKLED BEETS, RICOTTA SALATA, AND DANDELION GREEN SALAD
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2 pounds fresh red beets 2 cups red wine 2 cups red wine vinegar 2 cups water 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 1 bay leaf 5–6 ounces ricotta salata 2 cups dandelion greens (or arugula) • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
DIRECTIONS Wash and peel the beets. Combine the vinegar, wine, and water in a pot, and add the beets, salt, sugar, and bay leaf. Simmer covered until the beets are tender. Remove the beets from the cooking liquid and allow both to cool. To serve, slice the beets and divide onto four plates and then divide the greens over the beets. In a small bowl, add 4 tablespoons of the cooking liquid and whisk in the olive oil. Drizzle over the greens and the beets. With a peeler, shave the ricotta salata over top, and serve. Recipe courtesy of Jamie Adams, executive chef, il Giallo Osteria & Bar, Atlanta, Georgia