SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
g in t r st u e Co he B ese in d in t h C oo F
D1 Oct. 30–Nov. 5, 2015
The Pork Takes the Cup on
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g in sh u l F
www.EpochTaste.com
Our friend En Chi is the jolly resident noodle master of Golden Shopping Mall.
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
I
n America, food courts conjure up images of french fries and fast food. But in Asia, food courts are culinary wonderlands, where you can sample food from different countries, all under one roof.
T T g ha iv n in k s g
RE TO AT A YOU FA R BU F LO AM US ILY
See Flushing on D2
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The Golden Shopping Mall in Flushing, Queens, offers foods from across China.
Courting the Best Chinese Food in
Flushing Flushing continued from D1
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Here in New York City, the best Chinese food courts are in Flushing, where different regional cuisines get their chance to shine. The Golden Shopping Mall on Main Street has long been hailed as a foodie destination for some of the best, most authentic Chinese food you’ll find stateside. About four years ago, another Chinese food court emerged on the scene, opening inside the New World Mall on Roosevelt Avenue, a threestory shopping center. Though this food court is cleaner and more spacious, serious enthusiasts still consider Golden Mall the paragon of under-the-radar (and incredibly cheap) Chinese cuisine. Contrary to our perceptions of Chinese food from Chinese-American takeout, or the Cantonese and Sichuan restaurants that are popular in the West, these malls feature foods from regions like Hebei, Gansu, and Xinjiang, which each have distinct culinary traditions. I’ve yearned to try the northern fare at these food courts, but it’s totally unfamiliar to me— growing up, I was fed a Cantonese diet. So I decided to enlist a friend, who spent her childhood years in Beijing, for some help navigating the foods of northern China—noodles, dumplings, and steamed buns with robust flavors, made from the hearty wheat that grows there. Golden Shopping Mall The first stop on our tour of Golden Shopping Mall was the Tianjin Dumpling House, located on the bottom level. I was excited to get my friend’s verdict on the popular dumplings, since her mother’s side of the family is from Tianjin. We were feeling hungry, so we decided to try three types: the sea bass ($7), lamb and green squash ($6), and pork with chives, shrimp, and eggs ($5), and each coming with 12 dumplings per plate. Our order came out after only a few minutes, piping hot. The pork dumplings convinced me that the makers were true masters. The way the juicy pork mingles with pungent chives and bits of fried omelet, with morsels of shrimp popping up every so often, creates a terrific medley of satisfying flavors. The sea bass was fluffy, peppered with minced ginger and scallions to give the fish the right amount of pizzazz underneath the chewy, toothsome dough wrapping. But the ones that will appear in your dreams, that will have you plotting your next trip back to Flushing as soon as possible, are the lamb dumplings. Upon biting into them, the lamb filling bursts with savory juices. Ever so succulent, the shredded meat is seasoned with pepper, scallions, and ginger to give it a slight kick, while the squash brings a mild sweetness. These are the kind of dumplings you could keep eating until your stomach ached. My friend gave her full approval of the lamb dumplings, calling them “A-rated.” At the end
Serious enthusiasts still consider Golden Mall the paragon of under-theradar (and incredibly cheap) Chinese cuisine. Offal isn’t as awful as it sounds ... it’s all the goods you might not be used to eating.
Golden Shopping Mall 41-36 Main St. Flushing
Hours Daily 9:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
New World Mall
136-20 Roosevelt Ave. Flushing 917-639-3089 newworldmallny.com Hours Daily 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
of the meal, the shopkeeper gave us small Styrofoam bowls filled with the water that was used to boil the dumplings. My friend told me this is a common practice in Tianjin. The steaming hot water, with a hint of dough and meat jus flavors, is soothing and light—a comforting way to cleanse your palate. The other staple food of northern China is wheat noodles. We ventured to a stand called Lanzhou Handmade Noodles, named for the northwestern city known for its hand-pulled noodles. These are made by repeatedly stretching and thwacking a piece of dough until it turns into slender, arms-length strands. The other popular northern variety is knife-cut noodles, made by quickly shaving bits of dough into a pot of boiling water. Watching the chef make your noodles is a mesmerizing pre-eating ritual; their honed craftsmanship always impresses. You can choose from a number of different toppings– seafood, duck, pork, beef, and offal. We stuck with the classic beef hand-pulled noodles ($6), which come with a generous amount of beef shank, braised to fall-apart tenderness, with bits of jelly-like cartilage attached. The noodles are a perfect al dente, while the broth is flavorful without veering into overly seasoned. The broth is so good, you want to guzzle it down. The knife-cut noodles, which we ordered with lamb ($7), have uneven, jagged edges to them, making for interesting textures that are fun to chew. Different cuts of lamb meat sit on top, some with the bone-in, or skin and cartilage attached—all tasting fully of lamb’s distinct flavor. It was another winner. As we approached the basement exit, near a DVD store, my friend spotted a stand selling “jian bing,” a crepe-like dish with eggs and crispy dough inside ($3.50). She explained that it was a common breakfast food in Tianjin, usually sold by street vendors—one of the things she misses eating the most. We ordered one to share and watched as the shopkeeper poured a batter made from mung bean flour over the hot grill, then used a wooden spreader to even it out. After cracking an egg over it, she expertly flipped the crepe over, sprinkled some scallions and cilantro, drizzled a sweet and spicy sauce, and finally added a sheet of crispy fried wonton dough on top. She folded the crepe into a rectangle so that the entire thing ended up looking like a sandwich. After trying the jian bing, I understood why my friend had missed them so much. The crispy wonton dough is irresistible, and combined with the egg and savory sauce, the jian bing gave me the same feeling as New York’s staple bacon-egg-and-cheese sandwich–it’s food that is simple, yet so gratifying. But wait, there was still more food to be had– the Golden Shopping Mall has another floor. From the street level on Main Street, the first shop you encounter is a stand specializing in Tianjin eats. Upon laying eyes on the plethora
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October 30–November 5, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
“Da pan ji” from the Saute Spicy Chicken stall at the New World Mall.
“Jian bing,” Chinese breakfast crepes with an ultracrispy sheet of fried wonton inside. “Xian bing” with a pork and cabbage filling, from the Golden Shopping Mall.
Golden Shopping Mall captures the no-frills, down-anddirty character of Flushing.
of foods on display, my friend exclaimed, “This is my kind of comfort food.” The store name translates to Tianjin “xian bing,” a savory pie stuffed with different meats. We got the one with pork and cabbage filling ($1–$2). It reminded me of eating a dumpling, but with a heftier, chewier skin, which soaked up the fatty meat juices. My friend pointed out another common breakfast item: a cone-shaped steamed bun made of cornmeal called “wo tou” ($1). She explained that this was once considered peasant food, but has since become a sort of hip food trend in Beijing. It is typically eaten with pickled or salted vegetables, so as a pairing, we bought a dish of cold potato slices dressed lightly in chili oil ($4). On its own, the cornmeal bun is barely sweet and a tad dry, but combining it with the intensely-seasoned potato makes for an interesting mix of textures and flavors. New World Mall Our immersion in northern Chinese food culture was over for now, as we moved along to the New World Mall, home to over 32 vendors from Korean–Chinese cuisine to Taiwanese street food. Some stands specialize in only one particular dish and some only have Chinese signage. Once again, my trusted friend recommended a dish she had enjoyed in Beijing: duck blood vermicelli soup ($6.50). This dish is a popular street food originally from Nanjing, a city further south in the province of Jiangsu. The duck blood is congealed, and then sliced into thin sheets that disintegrate quickly upon chewing. The other duck parts are also fun to eat, like the liver, velvety and pungent, and the intestine, chewy and nutty. But the highlight is the milky-white broth, which has the deep flavors of duck, while still being oh-so-comforting to drink. My friend called it “full of vitality.” It’s easy to slurp it all up with the slippery glass noodles. Another dish you’ll rarely find outside of Flushing is “da pan ji,” which translates to big plate chicken ($9). It’s a dish from Xinjiang, on the western reaches of China, where the food is influenced by the Muslim culture. The dish is a stew of chicken and potatoes on a heap
of red and green bell peppers, chili peppers, and onions, heavily seasoned with cumin. The chicken and potatoes soak up all the spices, delivering a tingly, smoky punch to the roof of your mouth. It’s a bit greasy, but a great dish nonetheless for spicy palates. At the end of the day, my friend’s verdict was that all these dishes were the closest she’ll get to the food she had back in China. At both malls, there were many more vendors with food from other parts of China, like Sichuan and Xi’an that we didn’t get to try. But judging from our experience, I’d say to stick to the stands that specialize in one type of regional cuisine or one specific dish, and go for whatever strikes your fancy. Chances are, you won’t be disappointed. I know I’ll be making a trip back soon.
If you’re a dumpling connoisseur, the lamb and green squash dumplings will bring a tear to your eye.
Pork with chives, shrimp, and eggs dumplings from the Golden Shopping Mall.
To visit Golden Shopping Mall and New World Mall, take the No. 7 train to Main Street station. Many vendors are cash only.
“Wo tou,” a cornmeal steamed bun commonly eaten for breakfast in Tianjin, China.
A Culinary Duet
of worldy flavors
Inspired cuisines from across the globe, meet in Greenwich Village
37 Barrow Street, New York, (212) 255 5416 ' www.DuetNy.com Lamb knife-cut noodles, with a comforting broth you’ll want to guzzle down.
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stuff to eat and drink around town
DIA DE LOS MUERTOS DINNER BY CHEF ROBERTO SOLIS
Fonda Park Slope location Tuesday, Nov. 3, 7:30 p.m. 34 Seventh Ave., Brooklyn East Village location Wednesday, Nov. 4, 7:30 p.m. 40 Avenue B, Manhattan Tickets: $75 fondarestaurant.com
Chinese-Japanese fusion restaurant KOA is relaunching its brunch menu, thanks to popular demand. Diners can choose from three types of noodle dishes—spicy dan dan, soymilk dan dan, or chashu—which comes with a sampler platter of six omakase (Japanese set meal) dishes and a pork-and-cheese bun. KOA is also serving Asian-inspired cocktails like Passion Fruit Mojito, Lychee Beer, and Peach Sparkling Jelly Sake. Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. KOA 12 W. 21st St. $24.75 for brunch set, $13 for cocktails koanyc.com
Dishes in KOA’s noodle brunch set.
Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is the Mexican holiday for honoring the dead. Mexican fine dining eatery Fonda will celebrate with a special dinner by guest chef Roberto Solis, known in Mexico for elevating Yucatán cuisine. Solis will display his haute cuisine flair in dishes like Consommé de Pavo con Joroches, a turkey consommé with masa dumplings, charred avocados, and a turkey cracklings “black spice” emulsion; and Salbut de Castakan, a crispy tortilla topped with roasted pork belly and xnipec, a type of Yucatán salsa.
KOA NOODLE BRUNCH
KEITH FERRIS
HUDSON VALLEY RESTAURANT WEEK Upstate New York is no longer a dining desert; it’s now home to a diverse array of restaurants that cook with local, fresh ingredients from nearby farms. For Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, over 200 restaurants in the region are offering special discounts on their lunch and dinner menus. Dishes will feature all things local, from Hudson Valley foie gras to brook trout caught in the streams of the Catskills. Some restaurants even grow their own produce, such as Union, a Latin fusion restaurant with a rooftop garden. Nov. 2–15 Various locations $20.95 for three-course lunch, $29.95 for three-course dinner hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com
The Village TeaRoom Restaurant & Bake Shop in New Paltz, N.Y.
COURTESY OF FONDA ROGERIO VOLTAN
DISCUSSION WITH PASTRY CHEF FRANCOIS PAYARD Acclaimed pastry chef François Payard has just published a cookbook featuring his favorite cookie recipes, “Payard Cookies.” At the 92Y, Payard will be speaking with Michael Laiskonis, creative director at the Institute of Culinary Education, about his signature pastries and the recipes he learned from his father, who himself was a pastry chef in France. Cookies featured in the book include French classics like madeleines, macarons, financiers, and cannelés, adapted for the home cook. Tuesday, Nov. 3, 7 p.m. 92Y, 1395 Lexington Ave. Tickets: $32 92y.org
Chef Roberto Solis. COURTESY OF FONDA
Cookies by pastry chef François Payard.
TASTE OF T BY NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE Eat food with style. New York Times style magazine, T Magazine, is hosting its annual culinary event, where guests get to wine and dine in luxury room furnishing showrooms. Top chefs will be whipping up savory bites inside the Architects & Designers Building, including David Bouley of Bouley, Sylvain Delpique of 21 Club, John Stevenson of Tavern on the Green, and Maneet Chauhan, a judge on the Food Network’s “Chopped” and chef-owner of Chauhan Ale and Masala House.
A dish from Solis’s special menu.
Thursday, Nov. 5, 6 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Architects & Designers Building 150 E. 58th St. Tickets: $95 tasteoft.com
COURTESY OF FIG & OLIVE
FIG WEEK AT FIG & OLIVE
Fig & Olive 420 W. 13th St. See website for prices and hours figandolive.com
In celebration of the Indian traditional holiday, Diwali (Festival of Lights), which takes place on Nov. 11 this year, chef Surbhi Sahni of sweets shop Bittersweet NYC will be hosting a dessert pop-up at Indian restaurant Haldi in Manhattan. Sahni’s take on traditional holiday sweets include burfi, a fudgetype candy made with chocolate, caramel, carrots, lentils, fennel, and toasted nuts; ladoos, ball-shaped treats made of chickpea flour, roasted cashews, and green cardamom; and Indian-inspired truffles like Chili Chocolate with Indian red chilies and dark chocolate ($6 on menu, $15–$48 for gift boxes). At Haldi, chef Hemant Mathur will serve a special dish from his hometown, Gatta Curry, made of poached chickpea dumplings in a yogurt curry ($16). Haldi Diwali menu Nov. 9–15, lunch & dinner Bittersweet pop-up Nov. 10–14, 12p.m.–7 p.m. Haldi, 102 Lexington Ave. bittersweetnyc.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Nov. 1 to 7 is National Fig Week. If you’re in the mood for some fig dishes, head to the Mediterranean restaurant Fig & Olive for Fig and Walnut Pancakes, served with figinfused maple syrup; Fig and Gorgonzola Risotto, made with Arborio rice and topped with a fig balsamic glaze; and the Fig and Walnut Julep, with bourbon, elderflower liqueur, muddled figs, and a shaved walnut garnish.
BITTERSWEET NYC AND HALDI DIWALI SPECIAL
Fig and gorgonzola risotto.
COURTESY OF NEW YORK MAGAZINE
NEW YORK TASTE BY NEW YORK MAGAZINE
Chocolate fudge from Bittersweet NYC. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
For the 17th year, New York Magazine is hosting New York Taste, gathering together some of the city’s best restaurants in one place to serve diners excellent food and drink. A portion of the proceeds will go to City Harvest, the food rescue organization. Curated by the magazine’s culinary editor Gillian Duffy, the event will include over 40 restaurants and bars, such as Aureole, Bâtard, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Red Farm, The Meatball Shop, The Cecil, and Upland. Tuesday, Nov. 10, 6 p.m.–9 p.m. The Waterfront, 169 11th Ave. Tickets: $100 general admission, $195 VIP taste.nymag.com
Attendees at last year’s New York Taste event.
Treats from Bittersweet NYC.
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OCEANA SEAFOOD BREAKFAST SANDWICH New Yorkers love their breakfast sandwiches. That ubiquitous bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich is a quick, cheap form of sustenance that keeps you satiated until lunchtime. But sometimes, you just want to treat yourself. The Seafood Sausage Sandwich at Oceana is executive chef Ben Pollinger’s fish-tastic take on the breakfast sandwich. The “sausage” isn’t really a sausage; rather, it’s a patty of sorts, made of halibut, smoked salmon, dill, and chives. Omelette-style eggs, melted Swiss cheese, and a horseradish aioli round out the rest of the sandwich, held together by a toasted brioche made in-house by executive pastry chef Colleen Grapes ($19). Breakfast 7:30 a.m.–10 a.m. Oceana 120 W. 49th St. oceanarestaurant.com COURTESY OF OCEANA
Pastries from Brod Kitchen.
Aaron Burr Cider and Farnum Hill Cider.
HOW TO PREPARE A NORDIC FEAST
CIDER WEEK Hard cider is finally getting a revival. The fermented apple drink was brewed in nearly every household during colonial times. These days, Cider Week is one way New Yorkers can enjoy craft ciders made from upstate New York orchards. Now in its fifth year, the annual event features cider tastings, food pairings, and talks. More than 45 restaurants, bars, liquor shops, and markets will be participating, including Gramercy Tavern, Craftbar, Wassail, La Vara, and L’Artusi. Nov. 6–15 Various locations Prices vary by event ciderweeknyc.com
Scandinavian cuisine is the next big thing. Hosted by food magazine Edible Brooklyn, How to Prepare A Nordic Feast will feature a panel of experts from Brod Kitchen, Unna Bakery, and Danish hot dog spot, Revolving Dansk, who will teach you how to prepare traditional Nordic food and drinks. Wednesday, Nov. 4, 8 p.m.–10 p.m. Brooklyn Brewery 79 N. 11th St., Brooklyn Tickets: $10 ediblebrooklyn.com
Oceana’s Seafood Sausage Sandwich.
HALLOWEEN SPECIALS
NOAH FECKS
NOAH FECKS
GRAN ELECTRICA Brooklyn Mexican restaurant Gran Electrica will celebrate the holiday by serving up a Día de los Muertos punch ($9, $40 for carafe), to the beats of a live DJ on Saturday, Oct. 31 and Sunday, Nov. 1. Saturday’s festivities will also include a costume competition, with the winner receiving a gift certificate for Gran Electrica. Saturday, Oct. 31, & Sunday, Nov. 1 Gran Electrica 5 Front St., Brooklyn granelectrica.com
Cocktails from Gran Electrica.
Gran Electrica’s outdoor garden.
DANIEL KRIEGER
EDI & THE WOLF Enjoy some Halloween-themed bites at this East Village Austrian watering hole: the Blood Wurst with baked apple ($10); or the Swiss Cheese Fondue with candied pumpkin and crudité ($18). To wash it all down, try the Reese n’ Rye, a Reese’sinspired cocktail that combines peanut butter-infused rye, walnut liqueur, and chocolate bitters ($13). Saturday, Oct. 31 & Sunday, Nov. 1 Edi & The Wolf 102 Avenue C 212-598-1040 ediandthewolf.com
THE BACK ROOM Beyond the typical Halloween treats, you can enjoy a special candy-themed cocktail at The Back Room at The Park Hyatt. The Otto’s 1923, featuring a Butterfinger chocolate bar in a glass, is named after the man who invented the candy bar back in 1923, Otto Schnering. The drink consists of Johnnie Walker Black, Kahlua, Cynar bitters, a spoonful of peanut butter, and a cookie crumble garnish ($18). Saturday, Oct. 31 The Back Room at The Park Hyatt 153 W. 57th St. thebackroomone57.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
THE HIGHEST STANDARDS OF QUALITY, AND DISCIPLINE TO TRADITION TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
D6
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October 30–November 5, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com tako: “octopus” and yaki: “fried”/ “cooked” A true Japanese comfort food!
Set
The Takoyaki MOCU-MOCU
746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 ! Mocu-Mocu.com
&
Healthy Natural Homemade, All Natural Broth % Truly No MSG % Natural Umami Flavors % Noodles Made in Collaboration with Ippudo NYC % Vegan Options %
By Channaly Philipp| Epoch Times Staff
form too well. This year, I’ll try to look at the actual stats!
Chef Matt Lambert is taking a break from his Nolita restaurant The Musket Room to cook at the 2015 Breeders’ Cup in Lexington, Kentucky, on Oct. 30. Epoch Times: How did your sandwich, The Pork, become the official dish at The Hill, the annual tailgate to the races? Matt Lambert: I went to the Breeders’ Cup last year and had a great time! This summer, we launched a pop-up sandwich shop called #meatyboy, and I thought it would be fun to create a gourmet sandwich recipe that Breeders’ Cup goers could enjoy while tailgating. At this year’s Breeders’ Cup I only cook at one event during the weekend so it’s nice to be able to share a recipe that everyone going to Breeders’ Cup can enjoy and make themselves.
with Matt Lambert COURTESY OF MATT LAMBERT
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
It takes eight minutes of non-stop flipping and wrist flicking to turn the batter into these puffy balls.
Chef Matt Lambert Hits the Races
Epoch Times: What makes it awesome? Mr. Lambert: It’s not your traditional tailgating dish, and The Pork takes sandwiches to another level with the different textures and big flavors. And to make things easier, you can prep at home, and it doesn’t take much effort on the day of—no fighting with a grill or packing tons of different ingredients, and, of course, it tastes delicious.
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
Epoch Times: Do you have money on any horse? Mr. Lambert: I’m from New Zealand and bet on a New Zealand horse last year, but my patriotism didn’t pay off—the horse didn’t per-
RECIPE BRUNCH FIT FOR A PRESIDENT. LITERALLY.
THE PORK Official Sandwich of the Breeders’ Cup 2015
Epoch Times: Let’s leave horses for a minute. If you had to pick, which do you prefer watching: football or rugby? Mr. Lambert: I’d have to say rugby. The Rugby World Cup is happening right now and the New Zealand All Blacks are looking pretty invincible, while my New York Giants aren’t looking that great. Epoch Times: Any other cool things you’re working on? Mr. Lambert: We’ve been hosting Rugby World Cup viewing parties with the #meatyboy popup. I’m hoping to see the All Blacks go all the way to the finals so we can host a big viewing party with meat pies, sausage rolls, and a few of the other #meatyboy sandwiches.
SIGNE BIRCK
HINATA RAMEN
Epoch Times: Do people tailgate out in New Zealand? Mr. Lambert: Not so much. Our national sport is rugby, and rugby isn’t much of a tailgating sport—it has two 40-minute halves, so it’s more about getting in your seat and enjoying the game itself. Also, we don’t have huge car parks surrounding our stadiums—fans are traveling by rail and don’t spend too much time outside the stadium before the game starts. We do enjoy a drink while we watch, though!
Here’s his crowd-pleasing recipe for The Pork sandwich. Lambert uses brioche rolls.
to kosher salt. Rub shoulder with salt mix. Allow to cure for 2–6 hours. Place on barbecue grill, turning every 45 minutes. Cook until internal temp reaches 145 F. Allow to rest for 1 hour. Slice on slicer or carve thinly.
For the Pork Shoulder • 1 pork shoulder • 1/2 ounce fennel seeds • 2 ounces kosher salt
For the Cabbage Slaw • 8.8 ounces red cabbage • 2.6 ounces daikon • 8.1 ounces apple • 0.4 ounce sugar • 0.7 ounce Chardonnay vinegar (can substitute with white wine vinegar or lemon juice) • 2.6 ounces mayonnaise
Grind fennel seeds in spice grinder and add
Slice cabbage on mandolin. Cover
Prep & Cooking Time: 5 hours Serves: 5–10, depending on how meaty your sandwich is
with sugar, salt, and vinegar. While that is curing, grate daikon and add after 30 minutes. Grate the apple, and mix all ingredients.
For the Chipotle Mayo • 3.4 ounces or half a can chipotle • 17.6 ounces mayo • 0.7 ounce salt In high-speed blender, purée chipotle. Add purée to mayonnaise. Mix all with whisk.
To Assemble Put the chipotle mayo on both sides of the bread, then the pork slices, then the cabbage slaw on top.
Drinks, cocktails, the works Our Executive Chef Christos Christou graduated at the top of his class at the French Culinary institute. He currently cooks regularly for the Greek Embassy and the United Nations.
Greek Brunch at Yefsi isn’t just amazing, it’s a culinary tour de force. Come taste why our lead chef was asked to cook for the President. Your Sunday just got better.
COMPLIMENTARY MIMOSA, BELLINI, BLOODY MARY, OR COFFEE WITH ENTREE.
2014 ZAGAT BEST OF GREEK RESTAURANTS IN NYC Saturday–Sunday 12pm-2:30pm 1481 York Ave New York, NY 10075 212.535.0293 • yefsiestiatorio.com Reserve Your Greek Brunch Today!
Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00
Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class
W
hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course
essert
$45/per person
Awabi Shabu-shabu
tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person
Sake and Wine
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as
Ask about our sake tastings.
white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
By Michelle Locke Irish whiskey was once a world leader. Once. And again? That big deal role came crashing down thanks to strife and Prohibition, which pretty much ended the U.S. market for the brown spirit from the Emerald Isle. But in recent years, Irish whiskey—a cousin to the wildly popular American bourbon and reasonably popular Scotch whiskey—has been making a comeback on these shores. In fact, last year more than 2.7 million cases were sold in the United States, according to the U.S. Distilled Spirits Council. That’s a $553 million chunk of the market, up 10 percent by revenue from the year before, and up 648 percent from 2003. “Irish whiskey’s definitely arrived,” said Jack Teeling, founder of Teeling Whisky Co., which this year opened its new distillery in Dublin, bringing distilling back to the city after a hiatus of nearly 40 years. And Teeling isn’t the only company on the move as Irish whiskey surges. Tullamore DEW recently opened a large new distillery, and smaller distilleries have been cropping up around Ireland. The result is that along with stalwarts like Jameson Original and Tullamore DEW, U.S. drinkers have a growing number of choices in Irish whiskey, including the recently introduced Teeling Small Batch, a single malt, and Redbreast. And previously hard-to-find Irish whiskeys are washing up here, too. Green Spot and Yellow Spot whiskeys are now available, notes Lew Bryson, managing editor of the Whiskey Advocate. That’s good news for fans who previously had been relegated to loading up at the Dublin airport duty free. Established brands are getting in on the trend, too, bringing out new products and experimenting with different styles. Unlike Scotland, which has scores of distilleries, for years there were only three major distilleries in the Republic of Ireland—Midleton, Cooley, and Kilbeggan—along with Bushmills in Northern Ireland.
Like most overnight success stories, the resurgence of Irish whiskeys was actually a long time coming. The turnaround can be traced back to 1966 when Jameson, John Power and Son, and Cork Distilleries Co. formed to create Irish Distillers (now owned by Pernod Ricard). The group focused on Irish whiskey’s strength—its mellow approachability—and promoted it as a smooth and easy-to-drink whiskey. Irish whiskey typically is made from malted and unmalted barley and is not peated—the process of creating the smoky, briny flavors characteristic of some scotches by drying malted barley over burning peat. And that means Irish whiskey has a lighter taste, which can make it more attractive to bourbon-loving Americans. Additional smoothness comes from Irish whiskey usually getting distilled three times, compared to scotch, which generally is double distilled. With the category regaining its footing, the key is to keep that “core DNA that people like about Irish whiskey,” said Teeling, while exploring new styles to keep pace with the market. “If Irish whiskey doesn’t offer a full range of expressions, we’re going to lose,” he said. Teeling whiskey, for instance, isn’t chill-filtered, creating a velvety texture and is bottled at 92 proof, rather than the standard 80 to stand up better in cocktails. Apart from the classic Irish Coffee, Irish whiskey cocktails haven’t been a big thing. “A shot of whiskey with a Guinness chaser, that’s your Irish cocktail,” joked Bryson. But companies are upping their bar game, too. Teeling has been working with Dublin tea company Wall & Keough for a Tea & Teeling series. A popular offering was this summer’s Teeling Iced Tea made with Aperol, ginger liquor, and a raspberry tea. Still, at just under 5 percent of the U.S. market by volume, Irish whiskey remains a niche, which Teeling sees as a positive. “There’s plenty more opportunities for the category to grow, particularly in the U.S.,” he said. From The Associated Press
Irish whiskey has a lighter taste, which can make it more attractive to bourbonloving Americans.
CONOR MCCABE PHOTOGRAPHY/TEELING WHISKEY VIA AP
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After Languishing, Irish Whiskey Is Showing a Revival Spirit
Bottles of Teeling Whiskey, made in Dublin, Ireland.
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f you’re looking for a more adventurous meal the next time you’re in the Theater District, make sure to try Manting, a nofrills Sichuan Chinese restaurant bordering Times Square. Sichuan cuisine is known for its spicy, aromatic seasoning. The province of Sichuan is in southwestern China, where humidity permeates throughout the year. Fiery, sweat-inducing chilis and peppers are believed to help the body balance out the damp climate. Manting is known for its “mala tang,” a numbing and spicy hot pot that is not easily found in most Sichuan restaurants in Midtown. Hot pot is a piping stew of all kinds of meats and vegetables, steeping in a clear broth mixed with a sauce of peppercorns, chilies, and other spices. The peppercorns are what lend the numbing or tingling sensation that leaves your mouth and lips buzzing. Manting offers several types of hot pot, depending on which type of protein you desire. The seafood hot pot ($11.95) comes with squid, shrimp, fish filet, kelp, vermicelli noodles, and an array of delicious vegetables, such as lotus root and bean sprouts. The beef hot pot ($12.95), meanwhile, features fatty slices of meat that soak up the chili sauce. The broth is the result of boiling beef bones and other goodies for 48 hours. It is light in flavor, which may be a welcome relief for those with a milder palate. Nonetheless, the chili sauce is powerful. Slurping the noodles, for example, will deliver numbing heat that spreads slowly from your lips to the back of your tongue. It’s a bit masochistic, but that’s the thing with Sichuan spices—their intensity is addictive, and you can’t stop yourself from eating more. Hot pot has a “dry” cousin: a so-called spicy dried pot (“mala xiang guo” in Chinese) that has the same ingredients stir-fried in chilies, peppercorns, spices, and aromatic herbs. At Manting, there are pans full of vegetables, seafood, meats, and tofu at the counter, from which you choose the ones to throw into the “dry hot pot,” then weigh for purchase ($2.45 per quarter pound of vegetables, $2.95 per quarter pound of seafood or meat). Stir-frying gives the ingredients a more flavorful punch, with hints of garlic that match the tingly spices to a tee. This could be the dish to hook you on Sichuan food forever. For those not keen on spicy food, Manting offers other options, such as the beef noodle soup ($11.95), featuring braised beef in a warm beef broth. The broth is both flavorful and comforting, made by simmering garlic, ginger, star anise, and other spices.
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246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
Beef mala tang.
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This sticky toffeecoffee glaze doubles as a decadent dipping sauce.
We’re Ready to Move Pumpkin Beyond the Pie This Thanksgiving By Alison Ladman We’re not saying you should ditch the classic pumpkin pie this Thanksgiving. After all, in some homes that would be tantamount to a declaration of war. And frankly the holidays are stressful enough. But we are suggesting that perhaps the pie is feeling lonely. That perhaps a second—and in our opinion even more delicious—pumpkin dessert would be a wonderful addition to the Thanksgiving bounty. So we created this pumpkin Bundt cake that is studded through the center with an apple-date-pumpkin seed streusel. And to tie it all together? A sticky toffee-coffee glaze. And because that sticky, drippy sauce is so delicious, our recipe makes extra so your guests can dunk bites of the cake into a little on the side. From The Associated Press
RECIPE PUMPKIN BUNDT CAKE WITH APPLE-DATE STREUSEL AND STICKY TOFFEE-COFFEE GLAZE Prep & Baking Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes Serves: 16 For the Cake • 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar • 1/2 cup vegetable oil • 2 eggs • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract • 15-ounce can pumpkin purée (not pie filling) • 1 cup whole-fat plain Greek yogurt • 2 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, divided • 2 teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon baking soda • 1 teaspoon kosher salt • 3 teaspoons cinnamon, divided • 1 teaspoon ground dry ginger • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves • 1/2 cup packed brown sugar • 2 large apples, peeled, cored and diced • 1 cup chopped dried dates • 2/3 cup toasted pumpkin seeds or toasted chopped pecans
For the Glaze • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter • 1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar • 1/2 cup heavy cream • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 2 tablespoons instant coffee granules • 1 tablespoon bourbon (or vanilla extract)
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 350 F. Coat a 10-inch fluted tube pan or Bundt pan with cooking spray, then dust with flour. In a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar, oil, eggs, vanilla, pumpkin, and yogurt until smooth. In another bowl, whisk together 2 cups of the flour, the baking powder, baking soda, salt, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, the ginger, nutmeg, and cloves. Stir the flour mixture into the pumpkin mixture just until well combined. In the bowl that previously held the flour, stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon of flour, 2 teaspoons of cinnamon, the brown sugar, apples, dates, and pumpkin seeds. Pour half of the pumpkin batter into the prepared pan, spoon the streusel
mixture around the pan in the center of the batter, not allowing the streusel to touch the edges of the pan. Top with remaining batter. The streusel mixture should be entirely covered by batter. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until a wooden skewer inserted at the center comes out clean. Allow to cool in the pan for 30 minutes before turning out onto a cooling rack to finish cooling. To make the glaze, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the butter, brown sugar and cream. Bring to a simmer and, stirring constantly, cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the salt. In a small glass, dissolve the instant coffee in the bourbon, then stir into the glaze. Allow to cool slightly, and then drizzle about half over the cake. Serve the remaining glaze, warm, alongside the cake.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 460 calories; 180 calories from fat (39 percent of total calories); 20 g fat (8 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 55 mg cholesterol; 350 mg sodium; 68 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 51 g sugar; 6 g protein.
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To Stu or Not to Stu—Either Way, This StuďŹƒng Is Delicious By Alison Ladman To brine or not to brine? High heat or low and slow? Jellied or whole berry? And of course, to stu or not to stu? They are, of course, the perennial Thanksgiving debates. So let us give you a little clarity this year. And if your relatives disagree and want to argue about it, you can blame us. If you have the space and time, brining is fine. If you don’t, it’s not worth the trouble (and you can replicate the results by just dumping a bottle of soy sauce over the bird before and during roasting anyway.) For temp, start high, then cut it back to finish low and slow. As for the berries... Are you older than 10? Then whole berries are the only option. Ah, but the stuďŹƒng. That one is more complicated. It’s hard to argue with the fact that a stued bird is more beautiful. Not to mention the stuďŹƒng from a stued bird packs way more flavor. Of course, if you don’t cook it properly, that stuďŹƒng also packs a fine chance of food poisoning. And then there is the trouble and mess of preparing it, and the fact that you’ve
now rendered the dish unfit for any vegetarians at the table. So we advocate having it both ways. Make up one giant batch of stuďŹƒng, then use part of it to stu your bird while popping the rest into a well-buttered baking dish. The trick to keeping the stued stuďŹƒng safe to consume is to make sure it is hot when it goes into the cavity of the turkey (and use a thermometer to make sure it reaches 165 F at the center by the end of cooking.) As for the baking dish batch, keep it moist and delicious with a little extra broth drizzled over top. If there are vegetarians in the mix, be sure to use vegetable broth. No vegetarians at the table? Ditch the extra broth and instead drizzle the finished stuďŹƒng with some of the pan drippings from the roasted turkey. Chances are that batch will be even more flavorful than the stuďŹƒng that was actually stued. Now that you’re prepped to stu (or not), we’ve got you covered with a master recipe, as well as four ways to adulterate it most deliciously.
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RECIPE
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CLASSIC STUFFING Prep & Cooking Time: 40 minutes Serves: 8 • • • • • • • • • •
Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza
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1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 large yellow onion, diced 3 ribs celery, diced 2 cups low-sodium chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary 8 cups cubed stale or toasted bread (in 1-inch cubes)
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 375 F. Butter a 9x13-inch baking pan or casserole dish. In a large deep skillet over medium, melt the butter. Add the onion and celery and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the onion is translucent and tender. Add the broth, salt, pepper, sage, thyme and rosemary. Bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and gently stir in the bread cubes. If desired, reserve some for stuffing the turkey. Transfer the remaining mixture to the prepared baking dish and bake for 20 minutes, or until the top is toasted. Stuffing that is cooked inside the bird must reach 165 F by the end of cooking. Use an instant thermometer inserted into the center of the stuffing to get an accurate reading. Stuffing that is cooked in a baking dish should be drizzled with pan drippings from the roast turkey just before serving (unless it is intended for vegetarians.) The stuffing can be modified with the following variations:
Sausage and Grape Brown 1 pound of loose breakfast sausage in the butter before adding the onions and celery. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of halved red grapes when adding the bread cubes.
Rye and apple Thanksgiving stuffing. cored, and diced apples.
Cranberry Chestnut Add 3/4 cup dried cranberries and 1 cup lightly chopped roasted and peeled chestnuts along with the breadcrumbs.
Extra Rich Beat two eggs and 1/2 cup heavy cream together in a bowl. Whisk a ladle of the warm broth mixture slowly into the egg mixture. Remove the pan of broth mixture from the heat and add the egg-broth mixture back into it. Mix well. Use brioche or challah for the bread cubes.
Seeded Rye and Apple
NUTRITION INFORMATION
Toast 2 tablespoons caraway seeds and 1 tablespoon fennel seeds in a dry skillet until fragrant. Add along with the rest of the spices and proceed with the recipe. Use marbled rye or pumpernickel for the bread cubes, along with 2 peeled,
Nutrition information per serving: 210 calories; 110 calories from fat (52 percent of total calories); 13 g fat (8 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 30 mg cholesterol; 450 mg sodium; 20 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 3 g sugar; 4 g protein.
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Cheat Sheet
to Take the Mystery Out of Thanksgiving Math
KULYKT/ISTOCK
By J.M. Hirsch
O FA C K 2 / I S T O
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You don’t need to drop a load of cash on special equipment to be thankful this Thanksgiving.
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Thanksgiving math actually isn’t all that hard. You just need to use a few basic equations. For example, to estimate the amount of wine you’ll need, begin by multiplying the number of in-laws you are expecting by the estimated number of offensive jokes your uncle is likely to tell (remember to round up). Take the product of that and multiply it by the number of children likely to overhear the offensive jokes. Buy that many bottles of wine. Or perhaps you need to know how many pies to serve. Tally the total number of guests, then add another eight guests to that number to account for your niece’s heartthrob of the moment (who may or may not come, but if he does will eat an entire pie himself). Now subtract 12 from your total to account for the guests who without warning will diagnose themselves as gluten-sensitive, fruit-free, paleo-centric or anti-sugar. Buy that many pies. How big a turkey should you get? This one is more complicated. Start by making a list of everyone coming to dinner. Rate each guest on an annoyance scale of 1 to 10. Bump up the rating by 2 points for any guest likely to spend the day standing in the kitchen distracting you. Tally all of the ratings, and then divide by the total number of guests. If the final score is 5 or more, don’t waste your money on any turkey. You’ll probably overcook it while being annoyed and distracted by guests. For more help navigating the Thanksgiving math minefield, we’ve assembled a cheat sheet to the most common culinary calculations. And because this is Thanksgiving, all estimates are generous to allow for plenty of seconds and leftovers.
Don’t stress if brining is too hard—simply salting makes a great turkey.
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How Big? For turkeys less than 16 pounds, estimate 1 pound per serving (this accounts for bone weight). For larger birds, a bit less is fine; they have a higher meat-to-bone ratio. But if your goal is to have very ample leftovers, aim for 1 1/2 pounds per person no matter how big the turkey is. • • • •
1-to-1 ratio, and usually no more than 1 cup of each. Feel free to add any other seasonings. Brines typically are made by heating the salt, sugar, and seasonings with a bit of water until dissolved. This mixture is then diluted with additional cold water (volume will vary depending on the size of your bird) and ice. Be certain the brine is completely cooled before using it. Turkeys should be brined for at least 8 to 10 hours, but can go as long as 72 hours. A good rule of thumb is, the longer the brine, the weaker the brine. So for a 10-hour soak, use 1 cup each of salt and sugar. For a longer one, consider backing down to 3/4 cup each. Always keep the bird refrigerated during brining. If the turkey is too big, an ice-filled cooler stored outside works, too. Don’t have the time or patience to brine? Try salting instead. In fact, plenty of folks say salting a turkey produces meat with far better flavor than brining. To do it, set the turkey on a platter, and then rub a generous amount of kosher salt on all surfaces. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. When you’re ready to roast, rinse the salt from the turkey, pat it dry, and pop it in the oven. The Roast Roasting temperatures vary widely by recipe. Some go at a slow and steady 325 F. Others crank the heat to 400 F or 425 F for the first hour, and then drop it down for the rest of the time. However you roast, use an instant thermometer inserted at the innermost part of the thigh (without touching bone) to determine when your turkey is done. The meat needs to hit 165 F for safe eating, though some people say thigh meat tastes better at 170 F. If the outside of the bird gets too dark before the center reaches the proper temperature, cover it with foil. The following roasting time estimates are based on a stuffed turkey cooked at 325 F. Reduce cooking time by 20 to 40 minutes for turkeys that are not stuffed (estimate total roasting times at 15 minutes per pound for unstuffed birds). And remember, a crowded oven cooks more slowly, so plan ahead if your
For 8 people, buy a 12-pound turkey For 10 people, buy a 15-pound turkey For 12 people, buy an 18-pound turkey For 14 people, buy a 20-pound turkey
The Big Thaw The safest way to thaw a frozen turkey is in the refrigerator. You’ll need about 24 hours per 4 to 5 pounds of turkey. For speedier thawing, put the turkey (still in its wrapper) in a sink of cold water. Change the water every 30 minutes, and plan for about 30 minutes per pound. The Brine A good brine uses kosher salt and sugar in a
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bird needs to share the space. Using a convection oven? They are great at browning, but require heating or timing adjustments. Either cut the temperature by about 25 F from what is called for by the recipe and cook for the time directed, or roast at the suggested temperature, but reduce the cooking time by about 25 percent. • • • •
The following times are for a standard oven: 12-pound turkey: 3 to 4 hours at 325 F 15-pound turkey: 4 to 4 1/2 hours at 325 F 18-pound turkey: 4 1/2 to 5 hours at 325 F 20-pound turkey: 5 to 6 hours at 325 F
The Baste Basting the bird with its juices helps crisp the skin and flavor the meat. Do it every 30 minutes, but no more. Opening the oven door too frequently lets heat escape and can significantly slow the cooking. The Rest The turkey never should go directly from the oven to the table. Like most meat, it needs to rest before serving for the juices to redistribute. Cover the turkey with foil and a few bath towels layered over that (to keep it warm), and then let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. The Gear You don’t need to drop a load of cash on special equipment to be thankful this Thanksgiving, but there are some tools that make life easier (and the food safer). A digital instant thermometer or wired probe (that remains in the turkey during roasting) is the most critical. Cheap thermometers will set you back no more than $20. A heavy-duty roasting pan is a worthwhile investment, but only if you make gravy from the drippings (the pan can be set on the stovetop after roasting) and if you roast other critters during the rest of the year. Otherwise, do yourself a favor and spend a few bucks on a disposable foil roasting pan (get a sturdy one). This makes cleanup a whole lot easier. Speaking of foil, get the good stuff. Skip the wimpy 12-inch rolls and grab the
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heavy-duty 18-inch stuff. It costs a few dollars more, but makes it easier to line pans, cover birds browning too quickly, and wrap leftovers. The Sides Carrots: A 1-pound bag makes 4 to 5 servings. Cranberry sauce: A 12-ounce package of fresh cranberries makes about 2 1/4 cups of sauce; a 16-ounce can has 6 servings. Gravy: Plan for 1/3 cup of gravy per person. Green beans: 1 1/2 pounds of beans makes 6 to 8 servings. Mashed potatoes: A 5-pound bag of potatoes makes 10 servings. Stuffing: A 14-ounce bag of stuffing makes about 11 servings. Double Oven Trouble? Are you lucky enough to be blessed with two ovens? Your Thanksgiving prep just got easier. Here’s how to make the most of the extra roasting space. • Dedicate one oven (if one is larger, use the larger) to the turkey. Place one rack on the oven’s lowest shelf and remove all others. When the bird goes in the oven, it goes on that bottom rack. Now see if you have room to add another rack over it. If so, this is the ideal place to cook your stuffing (assuming it isn’t in the bird), au gratin potatoes and green bean casseroles, which can cook at
the same temperature at the bird. • Early in the day, use the second oven to cook anything that can be done ahead. Pies and rolls are good. Closer to the time you will serve the meal, use the second oven to cook things that need a higher temperature than the turkey, such as roasted root vegetables and pies. As the turkey is being carved, use both ovens to reheat items (such as those rolls) or keep things warm; 150 F to 200 F is about right for both tasks. The Desserts Pie: A 9-inch pie can be cut into 8 modest slices. Whipped cream: Dolloping whipped cream on those 8 modest slices will require 1 cup of heavy cream beaten with 2 tablespoons powdered sugar (a splash of vanilla extract is nice, too). Ice cream: A la mode doesn’t require much—1 pint per pie should suffice. The Leftovers For food safety reasons, leftovers should be cleared from the table and refrigerated within two hours of being served. Once refrigerated, they should be consumed within three to four days. Leftovers can be frozen for three to four months. Though safe to consume after four months, they will start to taste off. From The Associated Press
A Thanksgiving Oyster Dressing That Plays Up the Oysters! By Elizabeth Karmel Oyster dressing is a traditional Thanksgiving side dish in the South. It is also pretty darn controversial. That’s because people either love it or they hate it. I happen to love oysters, so I love the idea of oyster dressing (even though I grew up with sausage dressing for Thanksgiving). The only problem is that most classic oyster dressing recipes call for mostly white bread, cornbread, and vegetables. Where are the oysters? Even worse is that many recipes call for chopping the oysters, which I think is sacrilege! I like a purer oyster experience, which is why I created my own version of oyster dressing that
is heavy on the oysters and light on the breading. The first time I made this particular oyster dressing, it was so good I had to make it again the next day. I was hosting a friend’s Thanksgiving weekend and by my guests’ request, I made oyster dressing to take to a potluck Thanksgiving dinner. The oyster dressing was gone in no time and my friends begged me to make it again the next day. Since I had riffed on the dish based on what I liked about oysters, I had to recreate my steps to develop an actual recipe. And be forewarned: My oyster dressing is closer to an oyster stew with a bit of breading than to a traditional oyster dressing. The next time I made it, I made it at my mother’s house and she thought that I was using too
Rather than turn this dish into a game of hide-andseek, use more oysters.
many oysters. I conceded to her wishes (as children often do ...), and we spent the entire meal picking the (too few) oysters out of the dressing. That taught me a big lesson. If you like oysters as much as my mother and I do—and you want a little bread with your oysters instead of a few oysters with your bread—use a lot of oysters. Because remember: Oysters shrink as they cook and bread expands as it cooks. Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pitmaster at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.” From The Associated Press
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
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RECIPE OYSTER DRESSING Most oyster dressings are bread with a smattering of oysters. I find that people pick through the dressing to get a bite with an oyster. So rather than turn this dish into a game of hide-and-seek, I use lots of oysters. Remember that the oysters are much larger raw than after they are cooked. It may look like you have too many oysters, but it will be just right when they shrink during cooking.
Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 20 minutes Serves: 12 • 1/2 small loaf white sandwich bread (about 8 small slices) • 2 sleeves (8 ounces) saltine crackers, crushed, divided • 2 sticks unsalted butter, divided • 2 large shallots, chopped • 3 stalks celery, diced • Kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper • 1/4 teaspoon dry thyme • 1/4 teaspoon onion powder • Pinch of nutmeg • 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream • 3 pints fresh oysters, drained
DIRECTIONS Cut or tear the bread into 1/2-inch cubes and let dry on a sheet pan overnight. Alternatively, dry the bread in a 200 F oven
for 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 350 F. Coat a 2-quart casserole dish with cooking spray. In a large bowl, combine half of the crushed crackers with the dried bread cubes. Set aside. In a medium Dutch oven over medium heat, melt 1 stick of the butter. Add the shallots, celery and a pinch of salt. Cook for 5 minutes, or until translucent. Add the pepper, thyme, onion powder and nutmeg. Stir to combine. Add the chicken broth and cream. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat. Ladle half of the mixture over the cracker and bread mixture, tossing gently to combine until just moist. Add the oysters and gently toss to combine. Transfer to the prepared baking dish, then pour the remaining cream mixture over it. Sprinkle the remaining crackers over the top. Cut the remaining stick of butter into small pieces, then scatter those over the top. Bake until the top is lightly browned and crispy, 40 to 50 minutes. Serve immediately.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 440 calories; 280 calories from fat (64 percent of total calories); 31 g fat (18 g saturated; 1 g trans fats); 130 mg cholesterol; 440 mg sodium; 29 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 4 g sugar; 12 g protein.
The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
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Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
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Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
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Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
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Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
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WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
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Lighten Up Thanksgiving With Lighter Bacon Brussels Sprouts
鍔銗文人墨厢的 čŠŠćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ ) ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)
By Melissa d’Arabian
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
When did Brussels sprouts go from healthy food our moms couldn’t get us to choke down to trendy gastropub fare? Answer—the instant someone realized that the tender little sprouts could be fried in bacon grease. While the Brussels sprout is incredibly nutritious—as one might expect from the world’s cutest little cabbage—letting it float around in bubbling smoky-salty bacon fat until frizzled and crispy may oset some of the nutritional ĂŠlan of the veggie. But what would fall be without some tasty Brussels and bacon on the table, especially at Thanksgiving? So I’ve created a lightened version of the favorite that got my children (and husband) excited about the vegetable in the first place. And they loved it. And I’m calling this one a true victory, because they are not an easy Brussels sprouts crowd. The secret is threefold. First, to get a crispy texture without frying, I roast the sprouts at high heat. I also heat the baking sheet before putting the sprouts on it so they sizzle when they touch it. That’s where the great texture is coming from. The second secret is to cook the bacon separately, turning it into a tangy vinaigrette-type sauce that you toss the sprouts in after roasting. The bacon tastes stronger that way. Finally, I use a hefty dose of smoked paprika, which ups the bacon-y smoky goodness with nary a calorie to add. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, “Supermarket Healthy.â€? MelissadArabian.net From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
RECIPE LIGHTENED UP BRUSSELS SPROUTS Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves: 6 • 1 pound Brussels sprouts • 2 teaspoons olive oil • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, divided • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 2 slices bacon, cut into small strips or cubes • 2 large shallots, thinly sliced • 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch cubes • 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 425 F. Set a rimmed baking sheet in the oven to heat. Cut the sprouts into quarters, and then place them in a medium bowl. Toss with the oil, half of the smoked paprika, and generous pinches of salt and pepper. Remove the hot baking sheet from oven and line with kitchen parchment (be careful!). Scatter the sprouts on hot pan, then roast until tender on the inside and crispy dark golden brown on the outside, 13 to 15 minutes, turning halfway through. Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon until it turns crispy. Add the shallots, apple and remaining smoked paprika, then cook for another 5 minutes, or until soft. If the bacon has not given off enough fat to sautÊ with, you may need to add a teaspoon of olive oil. Increase the heat to high, and then add the vinegar and 1 tablespoon of water. Stir to deglaze the pan (don’t have your face too close to the pan or you will inhale quite an intense whiff of vinegar). Add the roasted Brussels sprouts to the skillet and stir to coat. Transfer to a serving dish.
thai
the modern
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 120 calories; 50 calories from fat (42 percent of total calories); 6 g fat (1.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 5 mg cholesterol; 160 mg sodium; 15 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 7 g sugar; 4 g protein.
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A Simple, Delicious Way to Cook Cauliflower COURTESY OF CICI LI
By CiCi Li In Chinese cooking, there are lots of ways to cook cauliflower—fried, stir-fried, steamed, roasted. Today, I'd like to share with you one of the easiest methods that makes a dish that's simple yet delicious: boiled cauliflower with ginger and scallions. Here, I heat some oil separately and pour it over, rather than frying the cauliflower. That's because cauliflower cooked in oil will lose its crunch, and become mushy and unappetizing.
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CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradise� on NTD Television. Join her in discovering quick and healthy recipes at CiCiLi.tv
RECIPE CAULIFLOWER WITH GINGER AND SCALLIONS
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
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Prep & Cooking Time: 10–15 minutes Serves: 2 • 3 tablespoons soy sauce • One 1-inch piece ginger, peeled and julienned • 1 scallion stalk, julienned • 1 head cauliflower, chopped into bite-sized florets • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
DIRECTIONS First, make the soy sauce mixture. In a bowl, add soy sauce, 1/2 tablespoon ginger, and 1 tablespoon scallions. Fill a pot with water and bring to a boil. Add the cauliflower florets and bring back to a boil. Strain the cauliflower and place it on a plate. In a small pan, heat the vegetable oil until hot but not smoking. Carefully pour over the cauliflower. Garnish with the remaining ginger and scallions. Serve with the soy sauce mixture on the side.