Epoch Taste 4-1-2016

D1 April 1–7, 2016 See Steak Cuts at Quality Eats

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Chuck

Short Fore Plate Shank

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Flank

Short Loin

Br is ket

Round

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DECONSTRUCTED

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Tori Momo With Couscous (grilled chicken thigh with eggplant and mashed potato, served over couscous).

www.EpochTaste.com

Yakitori chicken is the focus of a 10-course kaiseki menu.

Yakitori Chicken Gets Star Treatment at Teisui

MASAHIRO NOGUCHI

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

G

rilled chicken is not what you’d expect to be the star of a multicourse tasting menu. But at Teisui, every step of preparing the bird—from choosing the breed and the cuts of meat, to grilling it properly, to determining what seasoning it needs—is refined and perfected until it is transformed into an exceptional, utterly delicious dish.

At Teisui, which recently opened a couple of blocks north of Madison Square Park, the craft of grilling chicken, or yakitori, is showcased through a 10-course “kaiseki” menu that is at times embellished with a French flair ($150).

Teisui

246 Fifth Ave. (entrance on 28th Street) 917-388-3596 teisui.nyc Hours Monday–Thursday 5:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m.

Friday & Saturday 5:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m.

Closed Sundays

The restaurant bears the same name as its sister hotel, in Akita Prefecture, Japan. The hotel was originally a ryokan, or traditional inn, that once hosted the emperor, and to this day still holds onto the tradition of serving kaiseki, a multicourse meal served to royalty.

Yakitori is usually considered street food by the Japanese, a convenient meal to order after work at a mom-and-pop shop, according to Teisui’s General Manager Yuko Hagiwara. But in recent years, chefs have started to offer yakitori using expensive breeds of chicken, and pairing them with truffles and foie gras, elevating the humble bird to the realm of fine dining. Hagiwara said Teisui is the first to design a kaiseki menu around yakitori at a New York restaurant.

See Teisui on D2

D2

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MASAHIRO NOGUCHI

Tsukune (minced chicken) is served with an egg yolk for dipping.

Yakitori Chicken Gets Star Treatment

Teisui continued from D1 Chef Yuichiro Yoshimura, who worked at the original Teisui Hotel in Akita Province, Japan, is a yakitori expert who has honed his grilling skills for the past two years. He said getting the right char—often just a hint—comes from experience, through carefully observing and gauging the temperature of the meat without tasting or touching it.

The type of grill, too, is critical. In Japan, yakitori joints typically use a charcoal grill. A gas grill will only heat up the exterior, while charcoal radiates heat more evenly and allows the juices to stay inside, Yoshimura explained.

In New York, strict regulation codes make the use of charcoal grills in restaurants very prohibitive. Teisui instead uses a special ceramic that mimics the heat charcoal gives off.

The result is perfectly succulent meat, but without the usual grease or intense smokiness associated with grilled meat. The Tori-Mune Konsai, or chicken breast skewer, is sweet, with the natural essence of the chicken. But

The best yakitori restaurants in Japan have their own farms.

Rabbit is served with a cup of “miso cappuccino.”

SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK

to stimulate the palate, the dish also comes with slices of sweet beets, smoked salt from the Sea of Japan, and beet and arugula purées, the latter with a spicy edge.

Teisui’s black feather chicken is sourced from Bo Bo Poultry in Brooklyn. Hagiwara explained that the Japanese are very particular about the types of chicken used in dishes, selecting birds for their texture (firmer meat is better for yakitori). Chickens are raised according to strict rules regarding their diet and the amount of space they have to grow, and the best yakitori restaurants in Japan have their own farms or seek out farms that match their specifications. After many taste tests, Bo Bo chickens were chosen because they tasted the most like Japanese chicken.

The final component to great yakitori is the “tare” sauce used to glaze the meats. Hagiwara said the sauce is usually what distinguishes different yakitori shops from each other, and hesitated to give more details about the recipe. But the sauce is usually a mix of soy sauce, sugar, and aromatics, lending a delightful savory-sweetness. Teisui’s Tsukune, or chicken meatballs, are painted with just a sheen of sauce.

Each bite of the tsukune is a soft, tender mix of minced chicken (the chef blended three different cuts of the bird to give extra flavor), onions, and Tokyo scallions (which impart a milder flavor than typical scallions). In Japan, the meatballs usually come with a raw egg that you whisk with your chopsticks, then dip the meatballs into, for an extra creamy texture. Sensing that some American diners might be squeamish about eating raw eggs, the chefs at Teisui serve the tsukune with a slightly cooked egg yolk.

Apart from chicken, Teisui’s menu includes seafood and other meats, presented in a progression of dishes modeled after the traditional kaiseki. The meal starts with an appetizer similar to the French amuse bouche, then moves on to the “hassun,” or second course, a platter of complementary foods that highlights the seasonality of the ingredients. Teisui begins its kaiseki with a warm and smooth chawanmushi (egg custard), brimming with umami from added uni and foie gras. A dollop of fresh

edamame purée cuts through the saltiness.

In Teisui’s hassun, the elements all have a sweet-savory interplay. The Kiritanpo is a specialty from Akita, where the original Teisui Hotel is located. Mashed rice is toasted over an open fire, then glazed with sweet miso (at Teisui, a mix of miso and yakitori sauce is used instead). Served on a skewer, the rice is chewy and sticks to your teeth, like mochi, but the toasted bits are like the prized grains at the bottom of a rice pot, crunchy and slightly charred.

Also on the plate is a bite of sweet Alaskan king crabmeat, kissed with a tinge of char; a morsel of boiled chicken, pristine and cleantasting; a soft ring of burdock root, just slightly bitter; and watercress dressed in “goma-ae,” a lightly sweet sesame dressing.

As the meal progresses, more substantial dishes are presented. The Kamo Mushi Yaki is a French-style dish of duck breast in red wine sauce, alongside seasonal vegetables plated with droplets of yuzu and orange jelly. The duck is toothsome yet tender, and topped with rings of zesty orange peel. The French influence comes from chef Nobutaka Watanabe, who was trained in Western cuisine and was most recently the head chef at Hapa Izakaya in Vancouver, Canada. He presides over the preparation of the non-yakitori dishes on the menu.

Kaiseki typically ends with a miso soup to warm the stomach. Teisui serves a specialty dish called “ishiyaki” (which translates to grilling hot stones) from the Oga Peninsula where the hotel is located. A pot of miso soup is brought to a boil with the addition of heated stones. At Teisui in Japan, the chefs use stones from the surrounding waters. For the New York location, they opted for stones from Mount Fuji. Red snapper from Kyushu, Alaskan king crab, and Tokyo scallions are cooked right in the soup, all made delicate and sweet from the gentle heat of the stones, which makes the soup sizzle and bubble before your eyes.

Higawara swears that there’s something in the water in Akita that makes everything taste special. Short of a trip to northern Japan, though, Teisui on Fifth Avenue is the closest you’ll get to tasting that unique touch.

Getting the perfect char is an art.

The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.

Teisui offers over 100 sakes and wines.

4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226

sagaponacknyc.com

Best seats in the house—to watch the chefs in action— are at the counter.

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

L

MASTER OF DISGUISE

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

SIGNE BIRCK

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

ooks can be deceiving. Juni’s chef Shaun Hergatt is a master at creating artful plates that aren’t quite what they seem. For April Fool’s Day, Hergatt recounts some of his delightful inventions.

SIGNE BIRCK

SIGNE BIRCK

Cherry Ripe

Death Star

Hearts of Palm

Resembles: A cherry Made of: Cherries, bitter chocolate, coconut—and foie gras

Resembles: An artichoke Made of: Foie gras and black truffles

Resembles: Flowing silk Made of: Hearts of palm, white asparagus, almond

Made of chocolate, coconut, and cherries, this dish is an homage to the Australian chocolate bars I used to eat when I was a kid.

But it’s also to the beauty and simplicity of those cherries I used to pick.

One of my favorite dishes! Death Star was inspired by “Star Wars.” It’s a foie gras ball surrounded by black truffle shavings and truffle sauce at the bottom.

Dishes like Hearts of Palm, which incorporates the flavors of almonds, was inspired by the desire to recreate the flowing silk of a lady’s blouse and its wonderful movement. This is an example of how the everyday experience of art in my life influences the dishes I create and becomes my own culinary design.

Looking to Pair Seafood?

Try Cocktails

By Diego Baud Because it is such a widely accepted tradition, people are often afraid of serving something other than white wine with seafood. For those who do try something a little different, vodka immediately comes to mind. But why not try cocktails? Seafood can be enhanced with cocktail pairings if you consider the spices, sauces, and preparation method of a dish.

Japanese whiskey pairs well with lobster and prawns, for example; the natural saltiness of seafood, along with soy sauce and ginger, marry well together.

Gin can also be a good option; some have up to 47 different botanicals. Those with strong juniper notes work well with bold flavors, such as smoked salmon with dill.

For spicy fish dishes, which include jalapeño, serrano, and poblano peppers, or hot chilies in general, I often recommend mescal, tequila, or cachaça with a twist of tropical fruit such as fresh lime and/or mango to refresh the palate. It’s a good foil to the spiciness.

The most important thing is to take a step back and envision the dish and then begin to create a cocktail that melds with it.

Here’s one of my favorite cocktails and associated fish pairing offered at Arola, at Hotel Arts Barcelona.

Hotel Arts Barcelona’s head mixologist Diego Baud was awarded most creative barman at the 2015 Essence Century Cocktail Competition held in Spain. Originally from Boulder, Colorado, Baud considers himself Spanish at heart. Having been in the restaurant industry 13 years and traveled to over 30 countries, his inventive cocktails are globally inspired.

Travelers staying at the five-star Hotel Arts Barcelona in Spain can find Baud behind the bar at Arola Restaurant. The signature Barcelona for Tapas Lovers experience, which features him in a live mixology show, is available for foodie travelers to book through Dec. 31, 2016.

春の会席メニュー

CHEF’S SPRING TASTING MENU Ontama, Uni, Ikura with “Uma-Dashi”

For more cocktails from Diego, see EpochTaste.com

Clear Soup with Top Neck Clam, Broccoli Rabe Assortment of Sushi Seared Wagyu Steak

RECIPE BLOODY MARY AL FLAMENCO • • • • • • •

1 1/2 ounce vodka 1/2 ounce amontillado sherry 3 ounces tomato juice 3/4 ounce lemon juice 3 dashes Worcestershire sauce 2 dashes Tabasco Pinch of salt and pepper

Grilled Eggplant with Red Miso Sauce Vinegared Grilled Saltwater Eel & Cucumber Chef’s Selection of Whitefish Tempura Magret Duck Breast & Japanese Taro “Jibun” “Takikomi Gohan” Fruit

DIRECTIONS Mix ingredients.

Garnish with salted rim.

(Optional upgrade: squid ink-salted rim and olive pearls.)

Pair with a “Boquerón frito” (fried anchovy).

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF HOTEL ARTS BARCELONA

Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 24-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.

RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)

Diego Baud.

Chef Yamasaki

D4

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com CHRIST MONTGOMERY

The New Umami Experience

stuff to eat and drink around town

Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces.

AVENIDA CANTINA LAUNCHES BRUNCH TTex-Mex joint Avenida Cantina is now serving brunch. Expect classic Tex-Mex fare like Breakfast Nachos—scrambled eggs, refried beans, chorizo, and cheese melted over fried corn tortilla chips; Brisket Hash, with house-smoked brisket sautéed with onions, poblano peppers, fried potatoes, and sunny side up eggs; and Nutella-Stuffed Churro French Toast—slices of fresh sourdough bread layered with a Nutella sauce, dusted with cinnamon and sugar, and drizzled with cream cheese icing. Breakfast tacos will also be served all day.

Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.

Avenida Cantina 25 Avenue B (between Second & Third streets) avenidacantina.com

We Now Deliver!

58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com

FREUD LAUNCHES BRUNCH The latest Austrian restaurant by chef Eduard Frauneder has launched brunch service. The menu is separated into Sweet, Small Bites, Organic Eggs, and Sandwiches & Co, with dishes like Pancakes topped with rhubarb and whipped sour cream; Poached Eggs with house-smoked sea bass, rye, and Bavaroise sauce; and Freud Burger with farmhouse cheddar and onion jam.

Freud 506 LaGuardia Place freudnyc.com

Beef Tartare with Red Curry Sphere.

UNDERGROUND SUPPER CLUB IN CHELSEA Want to meet new friends while noshing on a gourmet meal?

Dine with the underground supper club, I Forgot It’s Wednesday, founded by the husband-wife duo Jenny and Matt Dorsey.

The Dorseys created the club as a way for strangers to meet and engage in intimate conversations. Jenny is the chef, while Matt is the mixologist. Each dinner features seven courses with four cocktail pairings.

Past menu options include chawanmushi with chicken pho broth, Japanese sencha, bamboo rice, young garlic, and pickled shiitake mushrooms; Moroccan braised lamb shank with red bell pepper and artichoke purée, sesame leaf, and broccoli rabe; and Meyer lemon chiffon cake. $85 for dinner, additional $30 for cocktail flight.

Every other Saturday, 8 p.m.

Undisclosed location in Chelsea For tickets, visit iforgotitswednesday.com

COURTESY OF MAYA

ROBATAYA LAUNCHES OMAKASE MENU Japanese barbecue joint Robataya is now serving a special “omakase” (chef’s choice) menu, in six, seven, or eight courses.

Dishes include a Japanese version of surf and turf, with grilled whole fish and Washu beef rib-eye steak; homemade tofu; and “kamameshi,” a traditional Japanese rice dish cooked in an iron pot with dashi, seafood, meats, and vegetables. $60 to $100 per person; additional $30 to $70 for sake pairings.

Traditional and modern, combined.

Robataya 231 E. Ninth St. robataya-ny.com

A new standard for Thai food.

The Res con Chile Morita enchilada with slow cooked short rib.

ENCHILADA FESTIVAL AT MAYA The Nuaa 1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) • 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com

JAPANESE STYLE Champagne Lounge

It’s an enchilada feast at chef Richard Sandoval’s Mexican restaurant, Maya. Did you know the word “enchilada” has origins in Nahuatl, meaning flute seasoned with chile? This month, Sandoval will serve different enchiladas, like Almendrada, with pork carnitas, almond mole sauce, pickled onions, pomegranate gastrique, orange segments, fresno peppers, and cilantro; Mexico City, with braised veal tongue, green mole, cotija cheese, and achiote oil; and Res con Chile Morita, with slow cooked short rib, chile merit sauce, red onion, cherry tomatoes, queso fresco, avocado, and refried beans.

Through Monday, April 18 Maya 1191 First Ave. richardsandoval.com/mayany

NEW JERSEY WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL For Reservations and Information 917-450-5701 clubvoa@gmail.com

✴ 3 VIP Karaoke Rooms

249 East 49th St., 2nd Fl. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) CLUBVOA.NYC Hours: Mon–Sat 9pm–3am, Fri 9pm–4am, Sun (bar only) 8pm–2am

The annual New Jersey Wine and Food Festival will kick off with two dinners hosted by top chefs. The first features winners and alums of Bravo TV’s “Top Chef” television show—Kevin Sbraga, Nicholas Elmi, and Dale Talde—as well as Michelinstarred pastry chef Marc Aumont. Each course will be paired with a boutique wine. $225 per person.

The second dinner features wines from Tuscan winery Sassicaia & Biserno and dishes by chef Anthony Bucco and chef Mark Ladner of Del Posto. $375 per person for six-course menu. Saturday features a full lineup of winemaker seminars, a bartender competition, and a showcase of agricultural produce from local farmers. In the evening, there is the grand tasting, with dishes from 25 top New Jersey and New York chefs and wines from more than 30 wineries. $135 to $250 per person. The festival ends with a Champagne brunch. $50 per person.

Friday, April 1–Sunday, April 3 Crystal Springs Resort 1 Wild Turkey Way, Hamburg, N.J. njwinefoodfest.com

CRAWFISH BOIL AT DOUBLE WIDE BAR AND SOUTHERN KITCHEN It’s crawfish boil season in Louisiana. This East Village Southern restaurant is serving the traditional Cajun dish on weekends, featuring 3 pounds worth of crawfish, sausage, corn, and potatoes in a bucket for $30. The restaurant also has Crawfish Dip and Cajun Crawfish Balls on the menu.

Wash down your weekend seafood feast with beers from the Louisiana-based brewery Abita, and rum drinks like the Monsoon and Yellowhammer.

Double Wide Bar and Southern Kitchen 505 E. 12th St. doublewidebar.com

PLAYA BETTY’S BRUNCH AND LUNCH Playa Betty’s California cuisine is now being served for brunch and lunch service. For brunch, enjoy customizable Betty’s Breakfast Bowlswith options like poached and scrambled eggs, beans, brown rice, quinoa, scrapple, and turkey sausage. Or try the breakfast tacos and quesadillas, like the Pork Belly and Egg Taco with scrambled eggs, tamarind-glazed pork belly, cotija cheese, and pico de gallo; or the Breakfast Quesadilla with scrambled eggs, jack cheese, black beans, pico de gallo, and bacon or steak.

For lunch, there are new menu items available, like Ceviche Tostadas, served on housemade puffed tortillas with fluke ceviche, lime juice, avocado, and cucumber pico de gallo; the Mexicano Sandwich with al pastor pork belly, jack cheese, mayo, and pickles; and the California Cobb Salad with grilled chicken, avocado, bacon, blue cheese, romaine lettuce, and Betty’s strawberry vinaigrette.

Playa Betty’s 320 Amsterdam Ave. playabettys.com

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

FERMENT! FERMENT!

BBQ COOKOFF

If you’re a home cook who loves to experiment with fermenting and aging your own food, this is the event for you. Zach Schulman throws several fermentation parties a year, where home cooks share their latest creations, such as mustard, kimchi, miso, or sauerkraut. The day will start with workshops, then a tasting of the fermented foods and drinks. Attendees are also encouraged to bring a culture or starter to swap at the culture exchange table. Event is free.

thai

the modern

Staten Island’s annual barbecue competition is back. Enjoy lots of saucy meats amid the beautiful terrain of the Historic Richmond Town. $12.75 online, $15 at the door for adults; $6 online, $8 at the door for children.

experience

Saturday, April 9 Noon–4 p.m.

Historic Richmond Town 441 Clarke Ave., Staten Island historicrichmondtown.org

Sunday, April 10 4 p.m.–8 p.m.

Brooklyn Free School 372 Clinton Ave., Brooklyn fermentferment.wordpress.com

CHEFS COLLABORATIVE This annual summit brings together leaders in different areas of the food and hospitality industry.

Guest speakers include chefs Jose Andrés, Rick Bayless, and Bill Telepan, as well as food journalist Kim Severson and nutrition professor Marion Nestle. Activities during the three-day conference run the gamut from workshops on food waste and sustainable seafood, to food tours around the city. Monday evening, top chefs will prepare a dinner with underutilized, sustainable species of fish from U.S. waters, including monkfish, skate, and Atlantic pollock. Chefs include Michael Scelfo from Alden & Harlow in Cambridge, David LeFevre from Fishing With Dynamite in Los Angeles, and Howard Kalachnikoff from Gramercy Tavern in New York City. $375 to $950 per person.

Sunday, April 10–Tuesday, April 12 Various locations chefscollaborative.org/summit

Happy Hour Monday & Tuesday All day, from 12pm–10:45pm Wednesday–Sunday: 12pm–8pm Happy hour specials include our house drinks, martinis, margaritas, beer, and wine for $5.

v{iv}

Our martini and margarita flavors include lychee, peach, strawberry, apple, orange, and pineapple.

GETTY IMAGES FOR NEW YORK CULINARY EXPERIENCE

And of course we always have dirty martinis.

Bar & Restaurant

HELL’S KITCHEN 717 9th Ave. (btwn 48th-49th St.) 212-581-5999 MIDTOWN EAST 38 E. 34th (btwn Lex & 3rd) 212-213-3317

Chef Ken Oringer cooks with master class students.

Follow us @vivthainyc

Like us v{iv} Bar and Restaurant

Visit us at vivthainyc.com

NEW YORK CULINARY EXPERIENCE For one weekend, more than 30 top chefs and experts will teach hands-on master classes at the International Culinary Center, including Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Cesare Casella of the International Culinary Center, Chung Chow of Noreetuh, Missy Robbins of Lilia, Gabriel Kreuther, and Justin Smillie of Upland.

Saturday, April 16–Sunday, April 17 International Culinary Center 462 Broadway nyce.nymag.com For tickets, call 646-314-4413 or email nyce@nymag.com

PETALUMA SPECIALS

Recipe from Patsy’s Italian Restaurant.

Italian restaurant Petaluma on the Upper East Side is offering a neighborhood appreciation deal every Tuesday, with 15 percent off your dinner check. On Sundays, the restaurant hosts a family supper series: all signature pasta and entree dishes come with a complimentary side salad.

In addition, on April 21, Petaluma is hosting its monthly Taste of Italy event with curated food and wine pairings. This month, the event features wines from Tenuta San Guido and Michele Chiarlo. $78 per person.

Makes 6 servings

A bottle of Chiarlo Barbera Le Orme.

COURTESY OF PETALUMA

Taste of Italy Thursday, April 21 6 p.m.–9 p.m.

Petaluma 1356 First Ave. petalumarestaurant.com

PASTA FAGIOLI

COCHON AT BENOIT For the month of April, Chef Phillipe Bertineau of Benoit will serve “cochon,” the classic French meal consisting of a 16-pound, 2-hour slow-roasted suckling pig seasoned with a blend of garlic and herbs. Every Tuesday, Bertineau will change up the side dishes to highlight the cooking styles of different regions of France. The series starts on April 5 with dishes from Alsace, with sauerkrautstyle cabbage, steamed potatoes, and cochon jus with mustard. April 12 will highlight Brittany, with cranberry bean casserole Paimpol style, with red apples and leeks; artichoke hearts confit in butter; and cochon jus with Pommereau. April 19 will feature Basque Country dishes, and April 26 will highlight Provence.

Tuesdays, through April 26 Benoit 60 W. 55th St. benoitny.com

Italian cooks know how to stretch their money. I was told that this wonderful bean and macaroni soup uses short pasta because the broken bits of the long varieties were sold at bargain prices. Everyone knows this by its name in Neapolitan dialect, pronounced “pasta faz-ool.” Years ago, a couple of regular customers returned from a trip to Italy and were excited to tell us about a great soup they had eaten called “pahs-tah fah-gee-oh-lee,” which is the textbook pronunciation. Nobody knew what the heck they were talking about until we wrote it down on paper. % 8 ounces small pasta shells or any small pasta for soup % 1/4 cup olive oil % 1 cup coarsely chopped yellow onions % 1 garlic clove, minced % 3 cups tomato sauce % 2 cups chicken stock or reducedsodium chicken broth % One 15-ounce can cannellini (white kidney) beans, drained and rinsed % 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley % Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water

Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

Our only location 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com

to a boil over high heat. Add the shells and cook according to the package directions until tender. Drain and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes.

3. Stir in the tomato sauce, stock, and beans and bring to a boil. Reduce heat the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer to blend the flavors, about 4 minutes.

4. Stir in the cooked pasta and parsley and cook just until the pasta is heated through, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

This recipe can be found on page 34 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.”

A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.

✁

D6

@EpochTaste

April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town

DRINK TO YOUR

Rider

HEALTH (HAS A NEW MEANING!)

Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji

Pomegranate Soju

James Beard Award-winning chef James Connolly has opened his latest restaurant, Rider in Williamsburg. The contemporary bistro’s name is an allusion to the hospitality rider that an artist submits to a venue prior to his or her arrival—a list of requested items for the artist’s comfort on the day of the show. The restaurant also shares a building with National Dust, a nonprofit performing arts incubator and venue, for which it will be catering and providing event dining options.

Connolly’s menu reflects his many influences, from Carrot Panzanella with baby carrots braised in carrot juice, tossed with olive-bread croutons, olives, raisins, mint, and green peppercorns, and served with fresh chevre and a skewer of grilled spiced

lamb; to Soy Roasted Radishes, served with pan-roasted greens and a crisped boneless chicken thigh with puréed toasted cashews, yogurt, and black garlic.

Pastry chef Lisa Fernandez-Cruz whips up desserts like Maple Custard, Vegan Parsnip Bread, and Fennel & Lemon Doughnuts. The cocktail program is directed by Colby Zito, previously of Eleven Madison Park and Maialino.

Open daily for dinner from 6 p.m.

Brunch, breakfast, and lunch to follow.

80 N. Sixth St. (between Kent & Wythe avenues) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-210-3152 riderbklyn.com

Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.

Fair Weather Bushwick MICHAEL TULIPAN

SOJU HAUS offers traditional, healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations.

Sizzling Bulgogi

While traditional cocktails often deplete the body of nutrients, SOJU HAUS mindfully pairs food and drink for a more balanced effect on your body.

Coconut Soju

W i Din n n at er 212-213-2177 315 5th Ave. 2nd Fl, NY NY

What to Try Tonight...

SOJUHAUS.COM

Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji

Pairs well with Cucumber Soju

Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)

Try it with the Lemon Soju Seafood Pancake

Sunday – Wednesday 5:00 pm – 2:00 am Thursday 5:00 pm – 3:00 am Friday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 4:00 am

Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine

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.ms /ta ste win

201

6

Fill out our 4-minute survey and be entered to win.

Coffee shop Fair Weather Bushwick has reopened as a full-service restaurant. With only 22 seats, the experience is expected to be intimate and cozy.

The setup is somewhat unusual, with a tasting course menu only available Tuesday through Thursday (8 p.m. seating, $65). On those weeknights, owner Ebru Brun greets diners and runs the front of the house, while chef-partner John Creger (previously of Artisanal and Le Cirque) will personally introduce every course. The menu will change weekly. The opening tasting, for example, featured Barber’s Farm Cauliflower Textures (slow-roasted cauliflower florets over a Bengal curry purée) and Four Story Hill Farm Pork Belly, glazed with harissa and maple, cooked sous-vide and served with saffron poached carrots and black quinoa.

A more affordable a la carte dinner is served Fridays and Saturday evenings. The menu includes Potato Gnocchi with chanterelles, black garlic, Meyer lemon, and gremolata; and Beef Short Ribs with smoked gouda polenta.

Brunch is served Fridays through Sundays. A 24-seat backyard will open later this spring.

JOHN CREGER

Four Story Hill Farm Pork Belly.

274 Wyckoff Ave. (between Linden Street & Gates Avenue) Bushwick, Brooklyn 347-305-3736, fairweatherbushwick.com

Natsumi Tapas Restaurateur Barbara Matsumara (of Haru, Joe’s Shanghai, and Tomo) has opened Natsumi Tapas in Gramercy, offering fusion Japanese and Italian flavors.

The consulting chefs are Italian chef Andrea Tiberi and sushi chef Hiroyuki Nagao. Dishes include Sashimi Tacos, with tuna, salmon, super white tuna, and crab

bases; Green Tea Ricotta Flatbread, with arugula, sliced grapes, tofu, oyster mushrooms, and truffle oil; and Ciao Meatballs in a variety of sauces—parmesan cream, spicy teriyaki basil pesto, and spicy scallion marinara.

Open for lunch and dinner Monday–Friday and for dinner Saturday and Sunday.

323 Third Ave. (at 24th Street) 212-889-2182, natsumitapas.com

The Chinese Club Husband-and-wife team Stacey Lo and Salil Mehta, chef-owner of LAUT, have collaborated to open The Chinese Club, inspired by Lo’s childhood growing up in a mixed Hakka-Chinese and Indian-Chinese household.

The restaurant’s name is a nod to the social club founded by her grandfather Lo Fung Shu, where Chinese immigrants could gather and enjoy food from their homeland.

The menu features family favorites such as Uncle Yap’s Hakka Platter (cold beef braised in fragrant soy sauce and Bang Bang Chicken wrapped in tofu skin wrap), Hakka Chilli Chicken (crispy chicken, bird’s eye chillies, garlic, and soy sauce), and Hakka soups.

There are also dishes reflecting the influence of Southeast Asian and Kolkata-Chinese cuisine on the Lo family.

208 Grand St. (between Bedford & Driggs avenues), Brooklyn, Williamsburg 718-487-4576, thechineseclubnyc.com

NOAH FECKS

Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.

Beef Short Ribs.

Porter House Bar and Grill After a hiatus for a cosmetic update, Porter House Bar and Grill has now reopened. Chef Michael Lomonaco is offering an updated menu featuring seasonally inspired cuisine with steak at the heart of the menu. The restaurant is celebrating its 10th anniversary this fall.

Make Epoch Taste Even Tastier

We want to get to know you and your taste buds better, so we can continue to delight your senses.

Asparagus, Truffle, Lardo, and Poached Egg.

10 Columbus Circle, Time Warner Center, Fourth Floor 212-823-9500 porterhousenewyork.com

Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

Theme Parks Find Recipe for Success in Growing Food Options

By Sandra Pedicini

O

RLANDO, Fla.—In theme parks’ early days, food was often an afterthought— served and consumed quickly, so visitors could get back to riding Space Mountain or watching the Shamu show.

These days, visitors want more from their meals, and theme parks are offering them a smorgasbord of options. The breadth of menu items and restaurants is growing. Food festivals are flourishing. Chefs are creating dishes meant to give guests a fuller experience of the Jungle Cruise ride or Diagon Alley.

“I think guests expectations’ have changed over the years,” said Beth Scott, Walt Disney Parks and Resorts’ vice president of food and beverage. “Certainly with things like The Chew and the Food Network and social media, people are becoming much more savvy about their dining experiences.”

With 475 restaurants, kiosks, and other food outlets, Walt Disney World in particular has become known for pleasing the palate. Its food and wine festival at Epcot has grown to 62 days.

The hours for many of the Disney eateries have expanded too, with more serving breakfast.

Many events have dessert parties attached.

Heeding more than 700,000 special dietary requests Disney said it receives annually, the parks have introduced allergy-friendly “Snacks with Character.”

Eater.com last year published an in-depth online guide to Disney World, with guides to everything from ice cream to cocktails. Not everything got a great review, but Editor-inChief Amanda Kludt wrote, “Pleasures can very much be found—not only pleasures but ingenuity, quirky surprises, and pure joy .”

Ed Wronski, Disney’s director of food and beverage product development, said his company’s portfolio of restaurants has become more diverse over the years. “We really expanded the different dining options for our guests based on the experiences they were looking for.”

Disney said its commitment to quality cuisine was demonstrated with the recent opening of its Flavor Lab near Port Orleans resort—a 7,000-square-foot building devoted to research and development across all Disney parks. About 20 employees work there full-time on an increasing number of new projects such as recipes for the Tiffins restaurant opening in Animal Kingdom this spring. Executives of other new places point to include Jock Lindsey’s Hangar Bar in Disney Springs, featuring signature cocktails such as the bright green Reggie’s Revenge made of vodka and melon liqueur.

Then there’s the Magic Kingdom’s Jungle Navigation Co. Ltd. Skipper Canteen, an ode to the regions traveled in the Jungle Cruise ride. Dishes from Asia, South America, and Africa include sustainable fish collar with yuzu-soy sauce.

When that restaurant opened in December, “reading the social media and the press, the way it was described, it’s not your typical theme-

park food,” said Jean-Marie Clement, Disney’s director of food and beverage concept development. “They were talking about the flavor, the spices, the presentation.”

There’s still plenty of basic grub such as burgers and pizza to be found among the gourmet goodies. But local foodblogger Ricky Ly said he’s been impressed by Disney’s increasing sophistication. He would like to see other theme parks introduce more high-quality, locally sourced ingredients.

“A lot of their folks sometimes plan their trips around food,” Ly said. “To miss that demographic is, maybe, shortsighted for businesses looking to cater to the next generation who cares more about their food.”

Many try to get as much for their money by the using theme parks’ meal plans, the costs of which have regularly increased. Disney’s prices went up this week after two years of staying steady.

SeaWorld is placing emphasis on its festivals, many of which feature something to eat. Its sister park in San Antonio last year debuted a Seven Seas Food Festival. For its Bands, Brew & BBQ, SeaWorld Orlando has started cooking the barbecue in-house and expanded the menu to include down-home delicacies such as a maplebacon cupcakes and corn-chip chili pie. “It’s really taken it to a whole new level,” said Cathy Valeriano, SeaWorld’s vice president of culinary operations. In Orlando, SeaWorld also introduced New Year’s Eve four-course dinner with champagne and dessert reception.

Last year Universal Orlando joined the trend of events built around eating, with a dinner featuring Halloween Horror Nights’ scare actors.

At Universal Orlando, the opening of the first Harry Potter land in 2010 unleashed some serious culinary creativity. While planning Universal’s Wizarding Worlds, Senior Vice President Ric Florell and his team referred to now dogeared copies of the Potter books filled with notes on meals, treats, and drinks that they could bring to life.

Universal found its signature beverage in Butterbeer. The books didn’t specify its flavor, so Universal’s team had to use its imagination.

After more than two years tinkering with the recipe, Universal delivered a foamy concoction that tastes of cream soda and butterscotch.

Butterbeer now comes in several forms—even a fudge.

Universal’s two Potter lands also feature British pub fare, oddly flavored ice creams, and Wizarding World beverages including Fishy Green Ale, a minty beverage with blueberry bobastyle bubbles.

The heavy theming can also be found in Universal’s Simpsons area, which when it opened in 2013 included Krusty Burger and Duff Brewery.

Grabbing an unusual bite to eat in these lands “completes the experience,” Florell said. “It’s the exclamation mark on the rest of your day.”

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

From The Associated Press

Boutique Coffee Shops Jolt Chains to Step Up Sophistication

By Krysta Fauria WASHINGTON—The coffee obsession has reached a new peak: You can now know the altitude at which the beans used for your morning cup of java were grown.

Spurred by the popularity of boutique coffee purveyors, Starbucks and other chains are taking steps to appeal to the growing ranks of coffee aficionados. They are experimenting with different roasting and brewing techniques, while providing more information about the origins of their customers’ favorite brew.

That includes where the coffee is from, as well as how and when it was roasted.

At Augie’s coffee shop in Redlands, California, bags of coffee list the elevation at which the coffee was grown. A higher altitude is said to lead to a fruitier and more complex flavor.

While Starbucks Corp. isn’t offering that level of detail yet, the Seattle-based chain has been working to burnish its reputation. It opened a high-end retail “Reserve Roastery” near its headquarters in 2014.

The company is also offering more coffee from a single origin, rather than the blends most Americans are familiar with. And it recently began using the Clover® brewing system that it said helps extract the optimal flavor for every cup.

For iced coffee, it also switched to cold brew rather than merely brewing hot coffee and chilling it.

The moves by Starbucks come as smaller chains have touted techniques like “nitro brew,”

which infuses nitrogen gas to create a creamier coffee, and “pour over” brewing, which essentially entails pouring hot water over grounds.

“I’ve really been able to pick up on what real, good coffee tastes like,” said Bekah Stoneking while drinking a nitro brew at Back Alley Coffee Roasters in Wake Forest, North Carolina.

Chris Vigilante, the founder and CEO of Vigilante Coffee, was experimenting with roasting methods in a basement a few years ago and travels the world to hand-select beans. Vigilante Coffee has several locations throughout the Washington, D.C., area and his coffee is distributed nationwide.

The popularity of a new wave of smaller chains was enough that another major chain, Peet’s, last year acquired Stumptown, based in Portland, Oregon, and Intelligentsia, based in Chicago. Both helped generate interest in different brewing methods and coffee origins.

“We want to offer different experiences to people through different concepts like Stumptown and Intelligentsia so we capture more than our fair share of all these new consumers, these 18- to 34-year-olds, that are coming very aggressively, very passionately into coffee,” said Peet’s CEO David Burwick.

Even Dunkin’ Donuts, which has an everyman image, introduced a dark roast coffee in late 2014 in nod to changing tastes.

“This is a trend you can’t ignore if you’re one of those chains,” said Duane Stanford, editor of industry tracker Beverage Digest.

From The Associated Press

212-594-4963 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours

D8

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF TASTING AUSTRALIA

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

Spring Fever

Tasting Australia showcases the bounty of South Australia.

Travel Destinations for Foodies

By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

Authentic Japanese

FREE

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more)

(SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)

6 %00%/1

$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

Fancy a visit to a sugar shack? What about a sugar chateau? That’s how Madava Farms, home to maple syrup producer Crown Maple, is sometimes known. Maple syrup fans can visit the 800-acre sustainably managed farmland in Dover Plains, New York, and try complimentary maple syrup and maple sugar samples.

Madava Farms is open for Maple Weekend on April 2 to 3. The Farmstand Cafe will oer its maple-inspired lunch and dinner menu. crownmaple.com

About 10,000 pounds of crawfish will march into town at the Rosewood Crawfish Festival in Columbia, South Carolina, on May 7. Family activities include the Crawdaddy Dash 5k Run, Li’l Crawdaddy Carnival with rides, and Artists’ Village featuring more than 40 vendors. rosewoodcrawfishfest.com

New York state’s largest craft beer festival, TAP New York, will take place April 23 to 24 at Hunter Mountain in the Catskills, with more than 100 breweries in attendance. The food theme this year is The Great American Burger. tap-ny.com Sample New York state wines during Lake Erie Wine Country’s Wine & Cheese Weekend (April 22 to 24), where wines and works from local artists of the Chautauqua-Allegheny region will be showcased; or head over to the Hudson Berkshire Wine & Food Festival on May 28 to 29 in Chatham, New York, in the Capital-Saratoga region, where 50 wine, craft beer, spirit, and cider producers will be featured. lakeeriewinecountry.org hudsonberkshirewinefestival.com Sun BBQFest at Mohegan Sun (June 11 to 12) in Uncasville, Connecticut, will celebrate the flavors of barbecue with three-time world barbecue champion chef Myron Mixon, featuring live music, barbecue showdowns, and food trucks. mohegansun.com/sun-bbqfest.html The Nantucket Wine Festival (May 18 to 22) features winemakers from all over the world and grand tastings serving 600 wines from over 150 prestigious wineries. Catch seminars with Louis Risoli (of L’Espalier in Boston), who will speak about cheese and wine pairings in his session Le Grand Fromage, and winemaker Pierre Seillan (whose VeritÊ blend earned him 100-point scores from Robert Parker). nantucketwinefestival.com Maine’s Taste of Bar Harbor (May 19 to 22) oers a taste of Maine’s cuisine. Among the events are Dessert Night; a pub tour; Chef’s Table (buy a ticket for a meal prepared by some of Bar Harbor’s finest chefs, with a secret location only disclosed at a pre-dinner reception); and special menus and promotions for $20.16.

The timing coincides with the Island Arts Association Craft Fair on May 21, showcasing works from local artisans and crafters. visitbarharbor.com Also in Maine, the Kennebunks will host the first annual LAUNCH! festival (June 17 to 19), celebrating the towns’ rich maritime history.

Food events include a lobster bake; the Captain’s Cook O, where local cooks from amateurs to pros to children will compete to turn Maine ingredients into gourmet dishes; the Clam Jam, a day of clam cakes; and food trucks. gokennebunks.com

Spammy, Spam’s mascot, welcomes visitors in Waikiki.

COURTESY OF SPAM JAM

6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu

Heading south, the fifth annual Taste of Monticello Wine Trail will take place April 7 to 9 in Charlottesville, Virginia, with wine tastings from central Virginia’s wineries, set to live music. monticellowinetrailfestival.com

Southern music and cuisine will be celebrated at the second annual Southern Grown (June 9 to 12) on Sea Island, Georgia. There will be performances by the Grammy Award-winning Tedeschi Trucks Band and American singer-songwriter Jason Isbell, and appearances by more than a dozen award-winning chefs. southerngrown.com For more music with your food and wine, head west to BottleRock Napa Valley (May 27 to 29), with headliners Stevie Wonder, Florence + the Machine, and Red Hot Chili Peppers. Area wineries will be pouring at the event, where revelers can pair their wines with fare from popular Napa restaurants. While musicians perform, chefs, vintners, and sommeliers take the culinary stage for demos. bottlerocknapavalley.com Because you apparently can pair wines with anything, there’s the Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival (May 20 to 22) in Southern California. Hot air balloons take o at sunrise above Lake Skinner, while wineries and restaurants from across the Temecula Valley will oer tastings. tvbwf.com The Ojai Pixie may sound like the name of a little fairy, but it is actually a sweet, seedless tangerine unique to the Ojai Valley.

Pixie Tangerine Month (April) is devoted to the citrus, with culinary classes (including a LARRY EMERSON

The Pixie tangerine gets its own celebration in the Ojai Valley, California.

D9

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF GABS

DAVID BECKER FOR VEGAS UNCORK’D BY BON APPETIT

From crawfish to Spam, there’s a food festival for every persuasion.

Night Market: East Meets West at the Venetian during Vegas Uncork’d.

A game of Jenga at the GABS festival in Melbourne, Australia.

COURTESY OF LITFEST

COURTESY OF CROWN MAPLE

All the flavors of Asia, under one roof

Visit Crown Maple’s “sugar chateau� on April 2 & 3.

Arbor Bistro • 226 W. Houston St. (btw. Varick & Bedford) 212-255-7888 • arborbistronyc.com

Bites at Litfest in County Cork, Ireland.

SO FRESH!

Crown Maple in Dover Plains, N.Y., opens its doors to the public for Maple Weekend.

Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order

REMKO KRAAIJEVELD

foraging tour followed by a mixology class), scenic bike rides, jeep tours, and discounts o accommodation. And of course, the Ojai Pixie will find its way onto menus at restaurants around town, in handcrafted cocktails, cupcakes, and even a pomodoro pasta sauce. ojaifestival.org

Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla!

For some culinary fun in the desert, head to Palm Springs, where the sixth annual Palm Desert Food & Wine Festival will take place April 8 to 10. It begins with the James Beard Gourmet Four-Course luncheon prepared by celebrity chefs, followed by two days of tastings from more than 40 restaurants and renowned chefs from across California. More than 60 wines will also be oered. palmdesertfoodandwine.com

60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues)

#

We Deliver ( Ramen Okonomiyaki ( Obento-box ( Japanese sweets Obanyaki (

Vegas puts on a show for foodies at the annual Vegas Uncork’d by Bon AppĂŠtit (April 28 to May 1), now in its 10th year, with headliners like Giada De Laurentiis, Emeril Lagasse (who is hosting a mystery dinner), Michael Chow, Guy Savoy, Gordon Ramsay, Nobu Matsuhisa (who is preparing the “Ultimate Omakaseâ€?), and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. vegasuncorked.com Aloha, Spam! How many ways can you eat the beloved meat? Try to count the ways at the annual Waikiki Spam Jam (April 30): Crispy Spam Chips from Eggs ‘n Things; Mongolian Spam Poke Bowl, and Coconut Spam Flan with Kona Coee Salted Caramel and Candied Spam from MAC 24:7; Korean Spam Street Taco from Duke’s Waikiki; and more. spamjamhawaii.com

We are the only restaurant in the city that delivers Ramen to you!

MOCU-MOCU

Our original “Wafu Dashi�, and MOCU’s original blend of 746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) Okonomi-yaki sauce.

212-765-0197 Mocu-Mocu.com

CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP

In Italy, the Bologna Finger Food Festival (April 22 to 25) in Emilia-Romagna is dedicated to the glory of street food and craft beers—both Italian and international, set to the sounds of world music. bolognawelcome.com/en Kitchens on wheels unite May 12 to 16 at the Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam at the (extended) Weekend of the Rolling Kitchens.

Expect Dutch favorites as well as dishes from around the globe. rollendekeukens.amsterdam/en Adelaide, Australia, plays host to the 19th annual Tasting Australia, showcasing South Australia’s autumn bounty on May 1 to 8. Events include a Wild Mushroom Forest Feast (rainproof attire recommended for traipsing through the forest in Adelaide Hills), a Feral Feast of Prairie (including feral antipasti of smoked kangaroo and pastrami and emu liver pate), and a “fizzology� session at Sinclair’s Gully exploring the process of making sparkling wine. tastingaustralia.com.au/en Also Down Under, the GABS Beer, Cider, and Food Fest is one of the world’s foremost beer festivals. Hundreds of beers and ciders are featured, including more than 100 crafted for the event alone. Known as the Great Australasian Beer SpecTAPular, the GABS festival will be held in Melbourne (May 20 to 22) during the city’s Good Beer Week before hitting Sydney (May 27 to 28) and, for the first time, Auckland, New Zealand (June 18). gabsfestival.com

T

“Our food—what’s the story?� is the central question at this year’s Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine (May 20 to 22) in County Cork, Ireland. Get ready for fascinating discussions, including Food in a Warzone with Kamal Mouzawak, food writer and founder of the Souk El Tayeb farmer’s market

The Okonomiyaki

If you like your cheese with a side of sport, there’s the centuries-old Cooper’s Hill Cheese Rolling (May 30) in Gloucestershire, England.

Here’s the gist: throw a wheel down a very, very steep hill, and unleash tumbling participants.

The severe gradient of the hill ensures that like the cheese, racers also tend to roll. First to cross the finish line wins the cheese. cheese-rolling.co.uk

LITFES

Richmond, British Columbia, in Canada is home to a population that’s over 65 percent Asian—and over half Chinese. Its night markets make it a lively, worthy culinary destination, featuring some of the best Asian cuisine outside Asia. The Richmond Night Market debuts on May 13 this year, and the International Night Market opens on April 29. richmondnightmarket.com summernightmarket.com

(subject to availability)

Winter Special

SY OF

Thirty of Puerto Rico’s finest restaurants come together at Escambrón Beach for tastings and demos at Saborea Puerto Rico (April 7 to 10).

Expect a wide range of libations as well. saboreapuertorico.com

The Weekend of the Rolling Kitchens in Amsterdam.

COURT E

Foodies looking for some ocean along with warm sand can look to the St. Croix Food and Wine Experience in the U.S. Virgin Islands, taking place April 8 to 12. Sunset barbecues, wine tastings in a Prohibition-style setting, and the signature Taste of St. Croix (April 14) showcase local hospitality and talent. stxfoodandwine.com tasteofstcroix.com

in Beirut; and Mallmann on Fire with Argentina’s Francis Mallmann, who will discuss the joy of fire (in cooking, presumably!). litfest.ie

The “Veg About� area of LitFest in County Cork, Ireland, where people are invited to get involved in every part of the food cycle, from sowing to composting.

Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog.

All 375 of them.

Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *

AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News.

Come and try for yourself.

We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.

Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939

Awarded One of the 10

BEST PIZZAS IN NYC

Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.

D10

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April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

Spring’s Return Means It’s Easy to Enjoy Our Greens Again

The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com

HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com

MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com

KOREATOWN Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com

GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com

KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com

WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Asian Fusion Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.

Uncle Ted’s Chinese Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce

163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com

EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki

109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com

BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com

BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)

Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com

QUEENS

403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com

Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com

Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings

Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499

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A new restaurant opens every day in New York City,

HOW DO YOU STAND OUT? Do what our fabulous clients did and partake in our smorgasbord of offerings to grow your customer base!

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advertisenow@epochtimes.com 212-239-2808

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From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH

RECIPE MINTY SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH TANGERINE AND TOASTED ALMONDS Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 6 • • • • • • • •

1 pound sugar snap peas 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 cup sliced almonds 2 large shallots, sliced into thin rings Zest and juice of 1 large tangerine Ground black pepper 10 to 15 fresh mint leaves, julienned or chopped • Coarse sea salt, such as Maldon

DIRECTIONS Using scissors or your fingers, remove the stems from the snap peas and pull to remove the string if necessary (many brands are sold

with the strings already removed). Place the snap peas in a bowl or strainer and rinse with cool water. Set aside.

In a heavy saute pan over medium, combine 1 1/2 tablespoons of the butter, the salt, and the almonds. Once the butter is melted, lower the heat and stir the almonds occasionally until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Once the almonds are toasted, transfer to a plate, then return the pan to medium heat and add the remaining butter.

Add the shallots and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they are soft and beginning to brown. Add the snap peas and cook, stirring often, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add the tangerine juice and cook for another minute. Stir in the tangerine zest and mint, then season with pepper. Transfer to a serving dish and top with the almonds.

Finish the dish with a sprinkle of crunchy sea salt.

Avocado Can Do More Than Make Guacamole. Think Pasta Sauce!

By Melissa d’Arabian Avocado is far more than just guacamole, club sandwiches, and California omelets. This creamy, fatty, filling fruit (technically, it’s a berry), is also a great source of healthy fat, making it an excellent replacement for other fats.

Why have fat at all? Because research is clear that our bodies need fat to absorb other nutrients. Not to mention that they taste good and leave us satisfied. When I eat healthy fats with my meals, I am far less likely to dive into a sugary-carby treat later on. It’s that simple. When I find myself craving a sweet in the afternoon, it’s almost always a sure sign that I didn’t eat enough healthy fat at lunch.

Avocado is nutrient-dense, which means the per-calorie nutritional game is solid. Avocados are packed with vitamins and minerals.

And they are incredibly fiber-rich. Who would guess given how lusciously creamy they are? Know that nutrient-dense also means calorie-dense. So downing a large bowl of guacamole

at happy hour probably is not wise. I aim for an ounce or two a day, which is about a quarter or a third of a medium avocado.

What do I do with avocado? I use it when I want to swap out cheese, such as adding decadence and creaminess to morning egg whites.

Or I use it as a healthy boost for my children’s morning smoothies, adding vitamins and filling fiber and fat to jumpstart their day. Avocado is also a great substitute for heavy cream; I blend it up to make salad dressings, silky-rich sauces, even puddings and baked goods.

Today’s recipe is a quick creamy pasta sauce that needs no cooking. It’s as fast as whizzing up a few ingredients in the blender and letting piping hot pasta bring all the heat necessary for the pasta sauce flavors to bloom. You won’t miss the cream!

Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget.

She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.”

From The Associated Press D

Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com

GREENWICH VILLAGE

RECIPE SPEEDY NO-COOK AVOCADO PASTA SAUCE Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 6 • 12 ounces whole-grain pasta • 1 large avocado, peeled, pitted and roughly cubed • 1/4 cup lemon juice • 1 teaspoon lemon zest • 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed • 1 scallion, chopped • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce • Pinch red pepper flakes • 1/4 cup cilantro leaves and soft stems • Kosher salt and ground black pepper

ME A

UPPER EAST SIDE

Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com

Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pitmaster at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.”

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57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com

15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com

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Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts

Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com

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UPPER WEST SIDE

This is one of the prettiest dishes to dress a spring— or dreaming of spring—table. After months of delicious but (let’s face it) mostly brown food, my appetite is primed for bright colors and fresh flavors.

And there are few green vegetables as vibrant and appealing as sugar snap peas. My mother served them often in a quick sauté with toasted almonds. But in recent years, I have munched on them raw as a healthy, crunchy snack.

I had almost forgotten what they tasted like cooked until one day last year when I was browsing through a cookbook by Jessica Seinfeld, “The Can’t Cook Book: Recipes for the Absolutely Terrified.”

The book is my favorite gift for young cooks, or anyone who thinks cooking is difficult. It contains appealing contemporary recipes and everything is simplified and spelled out. When I saw the picture of her minty sugar snaps, it reminded me of my mother’s dish and I had a craving that I couldn’t stop thinking about until I made them.

Because I love citrus with both mint and sugar snap peas, I added the zest and the juice of a

tangerine to brighten the flavor and balance the richness of the butter. The toasted sliced almonds add a welcome crunch and, if you are like me, you will find yourself making sure that every bite includes an almond or two.

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ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS

By Elizabeth Karmel

AP

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DIRECTIONS Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package directions, then reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, and drain.

Meanwhile, in a blender combine the avocado, lemon juice and zest, garlic, scallion, olive oil, Parmesan, and Worcestershire sauce.

Blend until smooth. If too thick, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water. Once smooth, add the red pepper flakes and cilantro and pulse to mix, but not completely blend. Seasoned with salt and pepper. Pour into a large serving bowl.

Once the pasta is cooked, immediately add it to the sauce let sit for 30 seconds. Toss to coat the pasta, adding a bit of the reserved cooking water, if needed, to thin the sauce.

BAVETTE

HANGER

LONG-BONE SHORT RIB

FILET MIGNON

COULOTTE

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROB COUNTS; ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU; TEXT BY CHANNALY PHILIPP & ROB COUNTS/EPOCH TIMES

Chef Ryan's NON-TRADISH STEAK CUTS

DECONSTRUCTED

QUALITY EATS IN THE WEST VILLAGE PUTS SOME SERIOUS LOVE INTO ITS STEAKS, AND WE’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT YOUR RUN-OF-THE-MILL CUTS EITHER. IT TAKES SOME SERIOUS COOKING SKILL TO GET IT RIGHT. COOL CUTS UNDER $30? COUNT US IN.

EXECUTIVE CHEF RYAN BARTLOW SPENT A COUPLE OF YEARS COOKING AND EATING IN NORTHERN SPAIN. “GRILLING IS VERY DIFFERENT IN THAT PART OF THE WORLD, ESPECIALLY STEAKS,” HE SAID. ONE OF THE BEST STEAKS HE’S HAD WAS AT ETXEBARRI, WHERE THE CHEF-OWNER AGED HIS OWN CATTLE (THINK 15-YEAROLD CATTLE!), MAKING FOR EXTREMELY TENDER MEAT.

IT’S PACKED WITH FLAVOR BECAUSE IT’S A RIB. “LISTEN,” SAID BARTLOW. “THIS CUT IS NOTHING NEW IN OTHER CULTURES. IF YOU GO TO ARGENTINA, ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR WAYS TO EAT GRILLED BEEF IS THE BEEF RIB. IT ALMOST HAS AN AGED FUNKINESS TO IT EVEN THOUGH IT’S NOT AGED AT ALL.”

THE WAY CHEF RYAN TALKS ABOUT THIS FAVORITE CUT OF HIS WILL MAKE YOU WEEP.

Flank Shan

WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE CUT?

COULOTTE THE LAST FORM OF TENDERIZATION IS THE WAY YOU SLICE THE STEAK. YOU HAVE TO CUT AGAINST THE GRAIN. IT’S AN ART IN ITSELF, WHICH IS WHY THE STEAKS AT QUALITY EATS, SAVE FOR THE LONG-BONE SHORT RIB, ARE ALL SERVED SLICED.

IT’S A TOUGHER STEAK, BUT QUITE LEAN, WITH A LITTLE BIT OF MARBLING. “IT’S ONE OF THOSE STEAKS THAT TAKES A LOT OF TECHNIQUE TO GET IT RIGHT. YOU FEEL IT AND YOU THINK IT’S MEDIUM RARE, BUT IT’S STILL RARE. BECAUSE IT’S LEAN AND THERE ISN’T AS MUCH FAT WEAVING THROUGH IT TO PROTECT IT,” BARTLOW SAID.

Chuck

Short Fore Plate shank

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OK, OK, SO THIS IS A COMMON CUT. BUT IT’S DRESSED UP TO THE NINES, SLICED ON TOP OF TOASTED GARLIC BREAD WITH “A NICE SCHMEAR OF CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE AND CARAMELIZED ONIONS.” IT’S FINISHED WITH OLIVE OIL AND TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR (THE REAL DEAL) FROM MODENA, WITH ARUGULA ON THE SIDE. “BECAUSE THE [DISH’S] NAME IS DON AMECHE, PEOPLE GET ALL ON IT,” BARTLOW SAID.

Rib

I prefer a nice salad.

BAVETTE ket

FILET MIGNON

Short Loin

Br is

Round

Sir l oin

LONG-BONE SHORT RIB

ALL THE STEAKS ARE FINISHED WITH LOVE—THIS JAR OF LIQUID GOLD HERE. WHAT’S INSIDE? DRY-AGED BEEF FAT, RENDERED DOWN AND INFUSED WITH GARLIC, ROSEMARY, THYME, AND BLACK PEPPERCORN. LOVE NEVER TASTED SO GOOD.

ON ONE SIDE OF THE COOKING SPECTRUM, YOU HAVE COULOTTE; ON THE OTHER YOU HAVE THE BAVETTE, WHICH IS A LITTLE FATTIER. BARTLOW SAID, “IT FEELS LIKE IT’S UNDERCOOKED WHEN IT’S ACTUALLY COOKED. YOU’LL COOK AND TOUCH IT AND IT STILL FEELS RAW. THEN YOU CUT INTO IT AND IT’LL BE A PROPER MEDIUM RARE.”

HANGER THIS IS THE SECOND MOST POPULAR STEAK ON THE MENU—AND FOR GOOD REASON. TRAGICALLY, THERE IS JUST ONE PER COW! “IT PACKS A LOT OF FLAVOR. LIKE THE SKIRT, IT’S CLOSE TO THE LIVER, WHICH GIVES A MUCH MORE MINERAL, BLOODY FLAVOR,” BARTLOW SAID.

REALLY?!

FOR THE MOST PART, CUTS THAT REQUIRE THE MUSCLE TO HAVE MORE MOVEMENT AND ACTION AND ENERGY AND FLOW USUALLY HAVE MORE FLAVOR. THE TENDERLOIN IS KIND OF AN INACTIVE MUSCLE, IT RUNS ALONG THE BACK. IT DOESN’T HAVE THE SAME KIND OF ENERGY THAT THE HANGER STEAK WOULD, OR THE SKIRT, OR EVEN THE RIB.

NOT TO STEREOTYPE PEOPLE BUT I CAN TELL WHO’S GONNA ORDER WHICH CUT. MY FIRST JOB WAS AT BASKINROBBINS AND I COULD TELL WHO WAS GONNA ORDER BUTTER PECAN.

ANY SEASONING? Salt & pepper— that’s it. If the product is that good, you really don’t need to do anything to it.

Nah. I like the rib steak. I like the bavette a lot.

Chef Ryan knows steak better than most people know themselves.

D12

@EpochTaste

April 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

Deliciously Sponsored

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Dylan York, wine educator at Wine Disciples.

WINE EDUCATION,

the Wine Disciples Way

W

elcome to Wine Education 101.

You can either read up on the technical specs—percentage of varietals, alcohol content, and so on—pour yourself a glass, or head over to Wine Disciples.

Dylan York, a 20-year-plus wine industry veteran and certified sommelier, is keen on throwing out the teaching manual on wines. “We’ve been teaching you the wrong way,” he said, addressing a group at a recent wine tasting class held at Wine Disciples Enoteca.

York, who regularly holds sold-out classes, summed it up, “We should just taste.”

His approach is refreshing. At the aptly named Find Your Palate class, the bottom line is not his opinion, or any other expert’s, but a matter of personal taste.

After sizing up a wine visually for color, clarity, and viscosity, it’s right down to the tasting.

“What’s the first thing that pops into your head?” York asks. The tasters are hesitant.

They venture … flowers? But as the wine flows, the impressions are shared more readily: green apple, white flowers, then later, cherries, barnyard, and on it goes.

As the class progresses, the tasters seem to grow more confident—which could be attrib-

UPCOMING CLASSES AT WINE DISCIPLES ENOTECA Classes are taught by Dylan York or Georgi Vladimirov.

Each costs $50.

Degrees of Flavor How climate and vintage affect flavor profiles.

Saturday, April 16 3 p.m.–5 p.m.

Find Your Palate Learning the language of wine and how it relates to your personal taste.

Saturday, April 30 3 p.m.–5 p.m.

Find Your Palate Monday, May 16 6:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m.

Degrees of Flavor Saturday, May 21 3 p.m.–5 p.m.

Classes can be also be organized for groups.

uted to a bit of Dutch courage. Over three glasses of white and three glasses of red, questions and answers about terroir, microclimates, acidity, and tannins go back and forth. If Socrates held a wine class, it might look something like this. It’s clear York knows plenty but his answers are always relevant to the context, and he is generous with this knowledge in a way that doesn’t make you feel how little you know in comparison.

The wines are artisanal and come from top producers. Though York tells you about the wines, he saves the prices for the end of the class. It avoids a bias toward the more pricey wines. At this particular tasting, the least expensive turned out to be a crisp, aromatic 2013 Recuerdo Torrontes (at $13.99) from Argentina, and the most expensive a very nice 2010 McCrorie Family “Burly” cabernet sauvignon from Napa ($67.99)—well, judging by the latter, sometimes, prices do account for something.

The wines rotate, so the classes are never the same.

Attendees get a 10 percent discount at the Wine Disciples Shop and the Wine Disciples Enoteca on the day of their class.

For more information or to register, visit winedisciplesenoteca.com

Knowing How to Slice, Cook Your Onions Makes Big Difference AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH

By Sara Moulton

Venture Into Thailand’s

Spicy Northeast

at

ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!

• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad).

• Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat.

• Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce.

• Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.

Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.

ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com

Back in the ‘80s and ‘90s, I used to work behind the scenes with Julia Child during her appearances on “Good Morning America.” It was my job to prepare the food she would put before the cameras.

Once, when I knew in advance that I couldn’t be there for one of her upcoming appearances, I invited a pal of mine—a culinary professional—to try out for the gig. We prepped the food as usual, and at the end of the day I thought my friend had done a dandy job.

Julia flatly disagreed and said she wouldn’t hire her.

I was flabbergasted. “Why not?” I asked.

“Because she sliced the onions the wrong way,” Julia replied.

Yikes! I didn’t think this detail was that important. But all these years later, I realize Julia was right.

Exactly how you slice an onion makes a difference.

Everyone knows that chopping onions can literally bring tears to your eyes as they give off pungent sulfur fumes. The more roughly an onion is treated—such as when it is chopped with a dull knife or pulsed in a food processor—the more fumes it gives off.

There are any number of quaint folk remedies for this problem, but none of them work. The best everyday tactic is to chop or slice the onion quickly and with a very sharp knife. Chilling the onion for an hour or two ahead of time is also a good idea.

Having managed to blunt an onion’s ability to bring you to tears, let’s turn to the correct way to slice one, à la Julia. Lengthwise, not crosswise, is the way to roll. Cutting an onion in half through the root end and then slicing it from stem to stern releases far fewer sulfur fumes, and the slices hold together much better than crosswise slices.

All of these tips apply to making my Alsatian onion pie. I tasted it for the first time on a river cruise in France a couple years ago, and I was really knocked out by its combination of simplicity and big flavor. Accompanied by a fresh salad, this treat would make the perfect light supper for the beginning of spring.

Sara Moulton is the host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.”

From The Associated Press

RECIPE ALSATIAN ONION PIE Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes Makes: Three 10- to 12-inch pizzas • 6 ounces bacon, thinly sliced crosswise • 4 cups thinly sliced yellow onion • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 8 ounces crème fraîche • 1 large egg yolk • Pinch nutmeg • 1 1/2-pound ball purchased pizza dough, room temperature • 3 ounces coarsely grated Gruyere cheese

DIRECTIONS In a large skillet over medium, cook the bacon, stirring, until it starts to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the skillet. Return the skillet to medium heat and add the onions.

Cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until very soft, about 10 minutes.

Remove the cover and cook, stirring

occasionally, until golden, about another 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside.

Heat the oven to 500 F. Arrange one of the oven racks on the oven’s bottom shelf.

In a small bowl, stir together the crème fraîche, egg yolk, nutmeg, and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

Divide the dough into 3 even pieces.

On a lightly oiled surface, roll out each piece into a 10-by-12-inch rectangle about 1/8-inch thick.

Transfer each to a 15-by-17-inch sheet of kitchen parchment. The dough may shrink and lose its shape.

If so, roll it again on the parchment.

One at a time, transfer each piece of parchment and dough to a bak sheet (unless your oven can fit 2 sheets on one shelf, you’ll need to bake these one at a time). Spread a third of the creme fraiche mixture over the piece of dough on the baking sheet, then top with a third of the onions and bacon. Sprinkle with a third of the cheese, then bake on the oven’s lower shelf for 10 minutes, or until the crust is crisp. Repeat with remaining dough and toppings.

Serve right away.