Dine
Unwind
SOCIETY FOR NEWS DESIGN (SND) AWARD OF EXCELLENCE WINNER FEATURE DESIGN SECTIONS—FOOD
D1 April 10–16, 2015
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Dining
D2 April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BAUOAU/EPOCH TIMES
Coconut Curry Laksa.
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Flinders Lane
A HAVEN FROM DOWN UNDER t’s tough being 10,000 miles away from home. Bouts of homesickness are inevitable. And so when Australians long for a piece of home, they head to Flinders Lane, a much shorter ride away, in the East Village. Australian owner Chris McPherson came to New York for three months to “take a look” back in 2006. Those three months turned into years, and while working at the restaurant Public, McPherson met chef Chris Rendell, who also hails from Melbourne. “We weren’t going home anytime soon. We got a bit homesick so we decided to bring a slice of home to New York City,” said McPherson. One of the primary attractions: the sausage roll. It is to Australians what a hot dog might be for Americans—a go-to snack when going out to a sports game (maybe “footy” for Aussies and baseball for Americans). But the sausage roll is a dream even for those who aren’t from Down Under, a savory sausage served in a buttery, flaky pastry, with sambal mayo, ketchup, and HP brown sauce—the latter a nod to its British legacy ($8). It sometimes gets ordered as an appetizer and sometimes at the end of a meal in place of dessert. Comfort food like this apparently fits in anywhere. But beyond meat pies and sausage rolls, what Flinders Lane does is cook up the other flavors that an Australian would find homey, drawn from the heritage
of immigrants that have made up Australian’s societal fabric— including southeast Asian, south Asian, Greek, and Italian. Rendell, for example, cooks up an amazing Coconut Curry Laksa. “You have ramen over here, we have laksa,” McPherson said. Note to restaurateurs in New York: we need laksa here too, if they’re made anything like Rendell does it—heavily scented of spices, served with grilled prawns, and with rice noodles, tofu in an addictive thick coconut milk broth ($19). Rendell doesn’t hold back on the spice—perhaps because Australians are used to more spice than Americans are, generally speaking—and that’s a good thing. The Diver Scallops is another dish not to miss. The scallops are served in a relish made of chilies and macadamia, and pack a nice sweet heat ($15). Macadamias are commonly used in Australia, and their inclusion in a savory dish, giving a nice crunchy texture, is a great touch. The Chicken San Choi Bau ($16) is a dish that Aussies might automatically order for the table when out at a Chinese restaurant back home. Simple, healthy, and flavorful, it consists of a mix of ground chicken, water chestnuts, and bamboo shoots that diners would spoon into lettuce leaves—it’s a terrific medley of textures and refreshing. The Grilled Lamb Cutlets ($29) are crusted with ground wattle seed, from native acacia trees, and taste somewhat like coffee.
Flinders Lane
162 Avenue A (at E. 10th St.) 212-228-6900 FlindersLane-NYC.com Hours Monday–Friday 6 p.m.–1 a .m. Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m.–2 a.m.
Served with minted yogurt, a cucumber salad, and harissa, the dish is a nod to Greek and Middle Eastern influences. The kangaroo is a hit as well. Rendell gives it different treatments according to the season, from long braising for kangaroo tail to a sear for lean kangaroo loin, which is served with roasted beets, horseradish labne,
Diver Caught Scallop With Macadamia-Chili Relish. Peppered Kangaroo Loin.
and greens ($29). Although on paper, some of the flavor combinations might sound unusual, slap-dash fusion this is not. Flinders Lane is a testament to the diverse, long-running gastronomic influences on the Australian culinary scene as well as Rendell’s skill. An extensive wine list including many Australian wines is available. McPherson, who used to work at a winery, gives excellent recommendations. Just don’t ask for a Foster’s here. According to McPherson, if they’re having a barbecue, Aussies are much more likely to bring wine than beer. There is a local homegrown touch as well. For the first time, the restaurant has partnered with a farm in Amagansett on Long Island, where it is growing whatever Rendell needs on about five acres of land.
Sausage roll served with sambal mayo, HP brown sauce, and ketchup.
BEHIND THE NAME
(L–R) Owners Chris McPherson and Chris Rendell, who is also the executive chef.
REFINED
Ancient principles of Greek cuisine combined with modern techniques, yield a harmonious balance of flavors in every dish, at Nerai.
55 East 54th Street New York (646)844-2275 www.nerai.nyc
McPherson explained that whereas in Sydney, attractions are easier to spot—the opera house, the harbor, the beaches—in Melbourne you have to dig a bit deeper. Flinders Lane is named after a street in Melbourne’s central business district, filled with bars and restaurants that moved in after incentives made rent cheaper. “It’s a treasure trove of exploration. You’re walking down this dark alley and you’re a bit nervous thinking, ‘What’s going to happen here?’ You turn the corner and there’ll be this great bar that you didn’t know about. You go in there and it’s just awesome. It’s the vibe we wanted to bring to New York,” McPherson said.
Dining
D3 April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com MICHAEL ALTOBELLO
Grazin’ on Delectable Burgers
Straight From the Farm Grazin’ Angus Acres was first NYC greenmarket farm to become Animal Welfare Approved By Manos Angelakis The Hudson Valley has become the New York region’s epicenter of the farm-totable notion, at the forefront of the craft food movement. In Hudson township, New York, one of the most interesting places to eat is the local diner! Yes, I know, I don’t normally write about diners … usually I wax poetic about Michelin-starred restaurants. But this is an exceptional eatery, as it is called Grazin’ and serves some of the most delectable all-beef hamburgers I have ever experienced in an organic version of traditional diner fare such as burgers, egg dishes, sandwiches, and brunch. Free-roaming chickens at Grazin’ Angus Acres farm.
Although it has fewer menu options compared to a conventional diner, the owners put a strong emphasis on very highquality, local, organic, and Animal Welfare Approved (AWA) ingredients. AWA is a nonprofit organization that audits farms to ensure that livestock is protected in a rigorous set of ethical standards. Grazin’ Angus Acres of Ghent, New York, is an organic and biodynamic farm owned by Dan and Susan Gibson, who also own the diner. The farm is the source of all the grass-fed beef, pork, and chickens served at Grazin’. The farm is also the meat source for the new Grazin’ Tribeca location in Manhattan that just opened a few days ago. The farm is a sustainable 2,000-acre eco-friendly environment with no feedlot, no fertilizers, no herbicides, no pesticides, and no hormones. The black-hued, purebred Angus cattle roam the grazing pastures, in a rotational Grazin’ Hudson manner, moving from 717 Warren St. pasture to pasture so Hudson, NY 12534 the grass has a chance 518-822-9323 to renew after the aniGrazinBurger.com mals have left. Manhattanites are familiar with Grazin’ Grazin’ Tribeca Angus Acres as meat 56 Reade St. from their cattle and New York, NY 10007 eggs from their chick646-217-4085 ens have been a fixture GrazinBurger.com at the Union Square Greenmarket, and other city greenmarkets, for several years. The farm is certified by AWA. Since I was raised in Europe, I love grass-fed beef. I find it more flavorful, even though it is leaner than corn-fed, but it has a taste that’s second to none. That also holds true for the dishes made from the chickens and pigs that Dan’s farm produces. The chicken soup I had at the diner tasted like it was made from real chicken. During my farm visit I found myself face to face with a 500-pound boar called Herman, who was lording it over a harem of a number of saws. Herman was very friendly … thankfully he didn’t know that half an hour before I had lunched at the Diner on one of his children in the form of tasty bacon that accompanied my lambburger with authentic tzatziki—the Greek yoghurt/garlic dip that is usually served with grilled meats. Grazin’s menu reflects the AWA philosophy beyond simple sourcing. Chicken soup is made from retired egg layers, hamburger is made from older steers, and all the vegetables are sourced within 7 miles from the Grazin’ Angus Acres farm.
MANOS ANGELAKIS
Grazin’ Diner in Hudson, N.Y.
REBECCA REISS
Uncle Dude Burger. REBECCA REISS
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
Pancakes.
Talking about chickens … the farm has a number of mobile chicken coops called the “EggMobiles.” The EggMobiles house the hundreds of free-range chickens, which roam the grounds of the farm, and the manure produced by the chickens helps to enrich the soil. “We actually move them around, behind the cattle every day because the chickens spread the manure piles the cattle leave behind, so spreading the manure actually fertilizes the grass for us,” said Dan Gibson. “Getting grass in the chicken’s diet also means the yolks in our eggs are brightorange and delicious.” It is great eats! Manos Angelakis is a well-known wine and food critic based in the New York City area. He has been certified as a Tuscan wine master, by the Tuscan Wine Masters Academy, as well as being an expert on Greek, Chilean, and Catalan wines. He judges numerous wine competitions each year and is the senior food and wine writer for LuxuryWeb Magazine, LuxuryWeb.com.
Morton’s World Trade Center
MICHAEL ALTOBELLO
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
Black Angus cattle at Grazin’ Angus Acres of Gent, N.Y.
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com
Dining
D4 April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com AROUND TOWN
SMORGASBURG/JON VON PAMER
Wednesday, April 15, 6–10 p.m., Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 W. 18th St. Tickets $195. TasteOfLES.org
Taste of the Lower East Side
Nothing brings a community together better than good food. Join Grand St. Settlement and up to 50 acclaimed and diverse restaurants for the 15th annual Taste of the Lower East Side. Participating restaurants include Veselka, The Stanton Social, Russ & Daughters, and Porsena. Proceeds from this event support Grand St. Settlement’s continuum of human services and programming for 10,00 New Yorkers of all ages. Tickets include unlimited tastings and open bars.
Lao New Year at Khe-Yo Smorgasburg.
Smorgasburg Returns Coachella is to music as Smorgasburg is to food. The food extravaganza came out of hibernation from its winter Crown Heights hideout with an impressive lineup of returning and new vendors. We’re drooling over Ramen Burger, the brisket sandwich from Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue; rice balls from Rice & Miso Everyday, every donut from Dough, and the french fry burrito from Best Buds Burritos. Happy feasting.
Saturdays at East River State Park, Williamsburg. Sundays at Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 5. Both 11 a.m.–6 p.m.
When a chef enlists his mother to cook for a special event, you know it’s a big deal. And so the executive chef of Laotianinspired Khe-Yo, Soulayphet Schwader, will be joined by his mother Soubanh to cook for the Lao New Year dinner at the restaurant. Soubanh, an elder in the Lao community in Wichita, Kansas, will be offering New Year’s blessings to diners. On the menu, expect their take on New Year classics like Grilled Goat Marinated with lemongrass and garlic, Green Circle Chicken Laap with tamarind lemongrass broth, and four different types of fish dishes. “It’s like a big feast,” Schwader said.
He is particularly excited about by the poached black bass, Pouhn Pa, poached with charred eggplant, shallots, chilies, garlic, jalapeño, and that magical funky ingredient, padek, fermented fish sauce. “You never see it anywhere except at someone’s house,” he said. The dishes are accompanied by a plethora of steamed and raw vegetables and herbs. And of course, the sauces: charred eggplant, roasted mushroom, spicy bang-bang, smoked chili, and shrimp paste. Served in the traditional way, all the dishes are brought out all at once to mix and match and enjoy with sticky rice.
Smorgasburg.com
Eat With Your Hands With Madhur Jaffrey Forget forks, knives, and spoons. Dig into the distinct pleasures of utensilsfree dining with Arun Venugopal and his guests (including Indian food world authority Madhur Jaffrey) for a delicious Indian meal, featuring eggplant chennai roast, mustard curry, and chicken kottumali. Bring on the wet-wipes!
COURTESY OF KHEYO
Sticky rice and sauces.
Tuesday, April 14, 7:30 p.m., The Greene Space, 44 Charlton St. (corner of Varick Street). Tickets $40. TheGreeneSpace.org
Over
50 Authentic
Spanish Tapas Endless combinations of flavors to share, or indulge on your own.
Come in and Pick Your Favorites Tonight!
April 13–19, Khe-Yo, 157 Duane St. (between Hudson Street & West Broadway).
Tickets $65. KheYo.com
Cultural Salon: Sake and Rice Wine COURTESY OF AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY
Trace the history and traditions of sake and rice wine with “sake samurai” and sommelier Chris Johnson. Drink your way across the continent and learn why this alcoholic beverage has been consumed for hundreds of years. This experience details the culinary history and distillation processes, with inspiration from the American Museum of Natural History collections.
Sake set from the American Museum of Natural History.
Thursday, April 16, 6:30 p.m. or 7:30 p.m., American Museum of Natural History, Hall of Asian People, enter at 77th Street.
Tickets $45. AMNH.org
Taste of Hope The American Cancer Society’s Taste of Hope is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, offering guests a chance to support the fight against cancer while taking part in a delicious culinary tasting experience. Every year, more than 50 notable chefs and restaurants donate their time and talents to Taste of Hope—raising over $1.3 million in its brief history. This year’s chef honoree is chef Dale Talde of BravoTV’s “Top Chef” and celebrity chef
Elizabeth Falkner as the culinary chair. The cuisine will range from chocolate bombshells and carving stations, to authentic street food. Admir Alibasic, executive chef at Ben & Jack’s Steakhouse, said, “I didn’t think twice to help and am honored to cook for the American Cancer Society. ACS deserves all the help we can provide and if my participation makes a difference, I’ll be there every year. Cancer starts the battle but it doesn’t need to end it.”
COURTESY OF ADMIR ALIBASIC
Meson Sevilla Restaurant
Thursday, April 30, Metropolitan West, 639 W. 46th St. Tickets $175–$ 250. ChefsRoll.com/Events/Taste-Hope Ceviche prepared by chef Admir Alibasic.
344 WEST 46TH ST. (BET 8TH & 9TH AVE.) • MESONSEVILLA.COM • 212-262-5890
Compiled by Rowena Tsai & Channaly Philipp, Epoch Times Staff
Dining
D5 April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com AROUND TOWN
Joining the flanks of the slowly but surely growing Tex-Mex pioneers in the city, seventh-generation Texan and blogger of Homesick Texan, Lisa Fain opened El Original last week in Hell’s Kitchen. The menu features an array of Tex-Mex classics like chile con queso, piccalilli beef tacos, and enchiladas smothered in chili gravy. There will also be anti-ballpark nachos with individually topped housemade chips and frito pie—think of nachos with Fritos instead of tortilla chips. El Original’s bar will feature classic TexMex drinks such as the Mexican Martini, the 14-shake margarita, and other tequila- and mescal-inspired cocktails.
Guacamole.
El Original
735 10th Ave. (at 50th Street) 917-382-5512 ElOriginalTxMx.com
Tacos and Tequila: Mexicue Kitchen & Bar Opens April 16 in NoMad Food truck turned brick-and-mortar Mexicue Kitchen & Bar will debut its third location just north of Madison Square Park on April 16. Combining two of America’s favorite comfort foods, Mexicue Kitchen & Bar creates a beautiful culinary union between Mexican and Southern barbecue. Notable dishes include the Burnt Ends Brisket Bowl with brisket chili and house pickled jalapeños, Smoky Carnitas Tacos, and Green Chili Mac and Cheese. Thirsty? Pick from an array of specialty cocktails and craft beers to wash down the fiesta of a meal, or choose from 70 different types of bourbon, tequila, and mezcal. Bonus points: Mexicue uses locally sourced, high-quality ingredients when possible, and everything is made from scratch. COURTESY OF STREETBIRD ROTISSERIE
Wings. COURTESY OF STREETBIRD ROTISSERIE
The bar.
Mexicue Kitchen & Bar 225 Fifth Ave. (between E. 26th an E. 27th streets) Mexicue.com
37 Barrow St. New York, N.Y. 212-255-5416
Cajun Fish Tacos.
Harlem Streetbird Chef Marcus Samuelsson has recently opened Streetbird Rotisserie, with dishes reflecting influences from his life, from Ethiopia to Sweden. The signature dish is, of course, rotisserie chicken, with housemade sauces like barbecue, jerk, sweet soy, and salsa verde; Hot Splash with piri-piri spiced fish, pickled cucumber, and avocado; and salads like The Fly Girl with black kale, romaine, green beans, toasted rice, and lime-coconut dressing. The cocktail names are just as colorful: Cool Like That Michelada with beer, lime, sweet soy, hot sauce, and a candied ginger rim; The Juicy Fruit with rum, mango purée and pickle juice; and Round’a Way Bourbon with Ceylon tea, tamarind juice, and agave. There is a section for takeout only.
New York-based gourmet food and juice brand LOLO opened earlier this month at Chelsea Market, offering an apothecary-style mixology bar. Let’s be real, you can’t deny the genius of introducing the art of mixology to juice. Mixologists can whip up custom juice blends based on your wildest dreams—your signature green juice, hangover cures, flu-remedies, you name it. Choose from 16 different types of juices and mix with boosters. Juices will be mixed in beakers and served in mason jars. While LOLO specializes in cold-pressed juices, there will also be smoothies, grab-and-go salads, savories, and sugar-free desserts.
Neapolitan Express opens on April 8. COURTESY OF NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
Breakfast - 7:30 am Brunch - Sat & Sun Lunch - Mon to Fri Dinner - 4pm to Close Oysters Cocktails Wine - Sangria Live Music -Thur & Sun Private Dining Room
ALEX STEIN
Streetbird Rotisserie 2149 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (at 116th Street) 212-206-2557 StreetBirdNYC.com
OUR COFFEE IS CRAFTED FROM
SEED-TO-CUP
BRAZILIA CAFE is an authentic seed-to-cup
coffeehouse. Using coffee beans sourced from the company’s own Brazilian plantation in the tropical mountain slopes of the Sul de Minas region, Brazilia offers the highest quality coffee experience in New York City.
Any Roast. Any Brew. Always the way you want it. Our Coffee Concierge can serve up a single cup using your choice of brewing method or a sampling of each Aeropress, Chemex, French Press or Hario Pourover.
Try our amazing Açaí super-food bowls!
LOLO Will Make Your Wildest Juice Dreams a Reality at New Chelsea Market Location
ROWENA TSAI/EPOCH TIMES
West Village Presents
Homesick Texan Opens El Original
COURTESY OF EL ORIGINAL
BRAZILIA CAFE Coffeehouse, Café and Marketplace
684 BROADWAY, NY 10012 (646) 852-6348 BRAZILIACAFE.COM
Our specialty doesn’t stop with coffee. We have an exciting menu that will enliven your pallet! From the juice bar to the salad bar, our foods and desserts are meticulously planned and prepared.
COURTESY OF LOLO
LOLO Foods
Chelsea Market 75 Ninth Ave. (between 15th & 16th streets)
LOCAL, SEASONAL, MARKET FRESH FARE
LOLO’s menu.
First Pizzeria Opens on Wall Street: Neapolitan Express Neapolitan Express outgrew its food truck roots and opened its second fast-casual brick-and-mortar location on Wall Street this Tuesday. The pizzeria will be open around the clock. Yes, they deliver. And yes, around the clock. The pizzeria will be using organic and top-quality ingredients like San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, additive-free “00” Caputo Flour, and fresh basil. Neapolitan Express is as serious about making pizzas as it is about environmental sustainability. The company prides itself on having stringent standards through the use of clean energy technology and electric ovens capable of making a pizza in 60 seconds. Hats off for being the first eco-friendly pizza company that is 100 percent powered by clean and alternative energy.
Neapolitan Express
The Trump Building 40 Wall St. (between Nassau & William streets) 212-289-4689 NeapolitanExpress.com
WE WELCOME YOU TO RESTAURANT You will love our warm atmosphere and our expertly prepared menu. We pay the utmost attention to every detail of your visit. From the hand crafted cocktails and specialty wine list, to our thoughtfully planned, market fresh and in-season dishes. Every dish, every cocktail is prepared from scratch and every detail is carefully thought out. We are always happy to customize any of your dining requests. NEW! Chef ’s Seasonal Tasting Menu
34 East 20th Street Located in Flatiron New York City
CountyNyc.com
(btwn Park and Broadway)
212.677.7771
Dining
D6 April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
in 1/4 cup maple syrup and season with salt and black pepper. Serve over a pork chop or chicken.
halved green olives. Cook for 5 minutes, then serve over pasta.
MAPLE-BROWN BUTTER PANROASTED PARSNIPS
In a small saucepan, combine 1/2 cup maple syrup with 2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Add 2 cups pecans and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Spread on a baking sheet lined with kitchen parchment coated with cooking spray, sprinkle with salt, then bake for 7 t0 10 minutes at 350 F.
Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a skillet. Cook until fragrant and browned. Add 2 pounds parsnips, cut into bite-size pieces. Season with salt and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until just tender, about 10 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons of maple syrup and continue to cook until tender and caramelized, another 4 to 5 minutes.
And You Thought Maple Syrup Was Just for Pancakes and Waffles By Alison Ladman Pancakes, waffles, and French toast? They’re fine, but they’re also just the start. Because if you’re limiting maple syrup to the breakfast
table, you’re missing out on all sorts of excuses to add its gentle, yet distinct flavor to all manner of foods, from roasted vegetables and chicken wings to pasta sauce and ice cream sundaes. Heck, we even think it belongs at the bar (check out our maple
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque
SYRUP SUNDAE
Juicy Lamb Chops
Top vanilla ice cream with a drizzle of maple syrup,
crushed shortbread cookies, and toasted almonds.
MAPLE-BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Whisk together 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar, 2 tablespoons walnut oil, 2 tablespoons maple syrup and a hefty pinch each of salt and black pepper. Toss with your favorite greens.
MAPLE-MISO WINGS
In a blender, combine 1/2 pint vanilla ice cream, 1/4 cup maple syrup, 1/2 teaspoon maple extract, 2/3 cup frozen wild blueberries and 1/2 cup milk. Blend until smooth.
Mix together 1 tablespoon baking powder, 1/2 cup maple syrup, and 1/4 cup yellow miso in a gallon zip close bag. Add 2 pounds chicken wings and let marinate for 8 to 24 hours. Drain the wings and place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake at 425 F until crispy and cooked through, 25 to 35 minutes, turning once or twice.
MAPLE-EGGPLANT AGRODOLCE
MAPLE-MINT SHORTCAKES
MAPLE-BLUEBERRY MILKSHAKE
Sauté a large thinly sliced onion and 1 tablespoon minced garlic in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add a large diced eggplant and a pinch of salt and cook for 6 minutes. Add 1/2 cup red wine vinegar, 1/2 cup maple syrup, 3 tablespoons dried currants, 2 tablespoons capers, and a 1/2 cup
Gently mix 4 cups mixed berries with 1/3 cup maple syrup and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint. Allow to marinate for 1 hour. Spoon over biscuits or angel food cake and top with whipped cream. From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
martini idea below). It’s worth noting that the system for grading maple syrup— a classification that rates syrups on color and strength of flavor— was recently updated to make the U.S. and Canadian systems consistent. The previous system used “Fancy” and “Grade A” to indicate syrups with lighter flavors and colors, while “Grade B” was darker and more robust. Under the new system, everything is Grade A, but descriptions have been added. The lightest syrup is now “Grade A: Golden Color with Delicate Taste” and the darkest is “Grade A: Very Dark with Strong Taste.” When shopping for syrup, let your preferences guide you. Many people prefer a lighter syrup on pancakes and waffles, but chefs generally gravitate toward a darker, more robust maple syrup when cooking with it or using it with savory foods.
MAPLE-ROSEMARY PECANS
MAPLE MARTINI
Muddle a quarter of an orange and a quarter of a lime with 1 tablespoon maple syrup in a cocktail shaker. Add 1 ounce of apple cider, 1/2 ounce orange liqueur and 1 1/2 ounces vodka. Shake vigorously with several ice cubes. Strain into a cocktail glass.
MAPLE GARLIC CREAM
Sauté 2 cloves of thinly sliced garlic in 1 tablespoon olive oil until tender. Add 1 cup of heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Simmer the cream until thickened and reduced by half. Stir
Maple Miso Wings.
Some Maple Sap This Season Headed From Tree Tap to Beer Tap 718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave,
(off SW corner of 31st St)
New York, NY 10001 (212)594-8939
Awarded
One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
*Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
CHATHAM, N.Y.— The maple sap bubbling away in Ron Davis’s upstate New York sugar house is destined for pancakes, waffles, sweets, and—for years now—beer kegs. The local syrup adds a touch of woodsy sweetness to the maple amber beer made by nearby Chatham Brewing, one of a cadre of craft brewers nationwide bridging the gap between tree tap and bar tap. The amount of syrup destined for pint glasses from this spring’s maple run is a relative trickle, but maple beers offer something for the growing numbers of local food lovers and craft beers aficionados. “It’s not sugary or something like a cider,” said Will Richard, drinking a pint with friends at the brewery’s bar near the Massachusetts line. “You have that almost like a hickory taste that you get from maple syrup but just not the overwhelming sweetness of it.” Maple beers fit into an artisanal age that sees craft brewers extracting flavor from bananas, oysters, Sriracha sauce and, inevitably, bacon. Many maple brews are often offered seasonally to coincide with spring maple runs or autumnal leaf falls. In Green Bay, Wisconsin, Hinterland sells its maple bock January through April. Chatham’s maple amber is a year-round offering. And while craft brewers will add syrup at different points in the
Maple amber beer is among the offerings at Chatham Brewing. AP PHOTO/MIKE GROLL
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
AS SEEN ON: The Wall Street Journal, Good Day New York, and Daily News.
AP PHOTO/MIKE GROLL
By Michael Hill
Brewer Matthew Perry adds maple syrup to a tank.
brewing process, Chatham head brewer Matt Perry pours it into to the maple amber after fermentation so that the syrup flavor comes through. He favors the darker, heavier syrup from later in the run. In Vermont—the woodsy heart of America’s syrup-making belt—brewer Sean Lawson of Lawson’s Finest Liquids has
become a sort of maple maestro with brews like Sticky Ale and Maple Tripple Ale, which is brewed with maple sap. “It’s amazing the way the maple flavor carries through to the finished beer,” Lawson said. On a recent day at Chatham Brewing, Perry slowly poured some of Davis’s sticky syrup from a pitcher into a stainless
steel carbonation tank, where it dissipated into the bubbling brew. Perry said the maple mixes better with a malty beer as opposed to the assertively hoppy beers popular now among craft drinkers. “This is a really good gateway beer to craft for a lot of folks,” Perry said. “It’s a little bit more agreeable to the palates that aren’t used to craft beer.” Chatham Brewery is in a rural area popular with weekenders from New York City and distributes its beers regionally. Davis is a retiree whose Blackberry Hill Farm is close by. He has been tapping trees since the early 1970s, even using metal buckets in the early days. Maple tappers like Davis log long hours in the sugar house this time of year, when daytime temperatures creep higher amid cool nights. It took a little longer this year because of the frigid winter, but by the end of March, the plastic tubes spider-webbed from some 800 taps were flowing with clear, watery sap. Davis boils an average of 150 gallons each spring in his sugar house in a wood-fired boiler that fills the small space with billowing steam. Most will still be bottled as syrup for local sales. About 25 to 35 gallons of syrup a year goes to the nearby brewery, an extra flow of business that Davis is happy to have. “He takes it in five-gallon containers,” Davis said. “So it’s a lot less bottling.” From The Associated Press
Dining
D7 April 10–16, 2015
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Master the Dumpling
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
A Turkish Feast You’ll Always Remember
With Dumpling Master Jenn Louis By Kelli Kennedy MIAMI BEACH, Fla.—When Portland chef Jenn Louis set out to perfect pasta dumplings in Italy, she was occasionally met with such disdain from local chefs she might as well have been trying to push the doughy fare to the Paleo diet crowd. “Each person I interviewed and cooked with had a different notion about what was and was not gnocchi. When I approached the subject as dumplings, I was quickly corrected and told that dumplings are Chinese food. (This was accompanied by a smirk and shake of the head in many cases.),� Louis writes in her new cookbook, “Pasta by Hand.� After five years of research and two trips to Italy, Louis is now comfortable saying dumplings are pasta. And deliciously so. And to make her point, she dedicated her entire cookbook to dumplings made from all manner of ingredients, including flour, potatoes, bread, and semolina. Like so much Italian food, the rustic shapes and ingredients of the dumplings vary by region, from little nubs perfect for completing a vegetable soup to long, thin pencil-like dumplings paired with tomato sauce or a hearty ragu. In the book, Louis’s dumplings are hand-formed doughy masses that can be poached, simmered, or fried and often are stuffed with regional foods, such as creamy homemade ricotta, spinach, leftover pork sausage and even more exotic offerings such as
chestnuts and wild nettles. Many of the recipes were passed along to Louis as she cooked with locals and chefs at their homes and restaurants around Italy. Louis has been making pasta from scratch at her Lincoln Restaurant in Portland, Oregon, for years. But she said it still was fascinating to unearth recipes and techniques from small villages that few outsiders had ever tasted. “They would be very, very uncomfortable letting me cook with them, and then they saw that I knew what I was doing and was very passionate about what they were teaching me and were like, ‘OK, let me show you something’,� Louis said during a recent interview with The Associated Press during the South Beach Wine and Food Festival. Louis calls her dumplings weekend recipes, though there are plenty that aren’t labor intensive. And Louis points out that none requires a pasta maker. Some call for nothing more than a bowl and a spoon. Frascarelli is a good dumpling to make with children, made by drizzling water over semolina and using a bench scraper to turn the pasta over on itself, then shaking the sieve until you get nice, big chunks that are simmered in boiling water. “It’s as simple as you can get. I think that some of these are incredibly rudimentary, some of
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www.SevenTurkishGrillNYC.com the original pasta shapes,� she said. As for the carb haters or glutenfree readers, she’s included dumplings made with chickpeas instead of flour, and Louis said gluten-free flour can be substituted in most of the dishes for traditional allpurpose. She rarely sits down to a big bowl of pasta herself, but does enjoy it for a side dish or a weekend splurge. There’s also several recipes with veggies, such as orecchiette with turnip greens, anchovies, and garlic.
A ‘CLASSY NEW ADDITION’ TO THE EAST VILLAGE ďšťZAGAT
“Pasta by Hand� by Jenn Louis.
A Paradiso for Meatlovers
Karina de Marco couldn’t find a restaurant in New York that she felt captured the true experience and authentic cuisine of her native Argentina, so she decided to open her own restaurant featuring the grilled meats that Argentina made famous. Buenos Aires restaurant features a warm, inviting atmosphere, a decadent wine list, amazing attention to detail, and the highest quality, well-priced food in NYC.
From The Associated Press
RECIPE
DUNDERI Jenn Louis says these light ricotta dumplings come from Italy’s Amalfi Coast and sometimes are made with lemon zest. “They are held together with as little flour as possible to keep their texture creamy and tender,� she writes in her new cookbook, “Pasta by Hand.� She says they are traditionally dressed with just butter or tomato sauce. Prep and cooking time: 30 minutes Makes 4 servings : 2 cups whole-milk ricotta cheese : 6 egg yolks : 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese : Freshly grated nutmeg : 1 teaspoon kosher salt : 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting : Semolina flour, for dusting
In a large bowl, mix the ricotta and egg yolks until smooth. Add the Parmesan, a few swipes of nutmeg, the salt and the flour. Mix with a wooden spoon just until the dough comes together. Using 1/4 cup of all-purpose flour, dust your work surface, then scrape the dough from the bowl directly on top of the flour. Sprinkle the top of the dough with an additional 1/4 cup of flour. This will help prevent the dough from being too sticky to roll. Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment, then dust it with semolina flour. Cut o a chunk of dough about the width of 2 fingers, then cover the rest with plastic wrap. On an unfloured work surface, use your hands to roll the chunk into a log about 1/2 inch in diameter. Cut the log into pieces 1/2 to 1 inch long. Place the dunderi on the prepared baking sheet, then shape the remaining dough. Make sure
that the dunderi don’t touch or they will stick together. If not cooking right away, the dunderi can be refrigerated on the baking sheet, covered with plastic wrap, for up to 2 days, or frozen on the baking sheet and placed in an airtight container. Use within 1 month. If frozen, do not thaw before cooking.
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To cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the dunderi and simmer until they float to the surface, 1 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove immediately and finish with your choice of sauce. Serve right away. Nutrition information per serving: 500 calories; 240 calories from fat (48 percent of total calories); 26 g fat (14 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 350 mg cholesterol; 40 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 1 g sugar; 26 g protein; 780 mg sodium. (Recipe adapted from “Pasta by Hand� by Jenn Louis, Chronicle, 2015)
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Dining
D8 April 10–16, 2015
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DIY STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
They’re Easier Than You Think By Aarti Sequeira Think of grape leaves as nature’s spring roll wrapper. I mean, the Greeks certainly did. So too did the Persians, the Turks, the Lebanese, the Egyptians, the Romanians, the Armenians, and even the Vietnamese! The otherwise unassuming grape leaf certainly has fans in high places. The Greeks say the most famous grape leaf dish, dolmades, was served on Mount Olympus to the gods themselves. Back down on Earth, when Alexander the Great laid siege
on Thebes, the natives apparently stretched what little meat they had left by wrapping it in grape leaves, thus birthing the dish we know today. And yet, the source of the dish is up for debate. Indeed, the very word “dolma” is Turkish in origin, from the verb meaning “to be stuffed.” In Armenia, an annual dolma festival is held to reassert the dish’s Armenian roots. Arabian cuisine is replete with stuffed vegetables of one kind or another, so it stands to reason that they would have stuffed grape leaves, too, giving birth to what they call “wara ‘enab.” And did you know that there’s even AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
a Swedish version called “kaldolmar,” stuffed cabbage leaves served with boiled potatoes and lingonberry jam? No matter the origin, I love having stuffed grape leaves in the refrigerator as a tasty antidote to afternoon hunger pangs. Truth be told, I’d always turned to canned dolmades instead of making my own. Yet I was shocked at how easy they are to make. For a change, inspired by the current national obsession with transforming cauliflower into an entirely different animal (cauliflower steaks, couscous, mash, Buffalo cauliflower “wings”), I decided to stuff them with cauliflower “rice,” which I spiced Turk-
Paleo devotees to (I would hope) Zeus himself! From The Associated Press
RECIPE
Cauliflower “Rice” Stuffed Grape Leaves Prep and cooking time: 1 1/2 hours (1 hour active) Makes 30 stuffed grape leaves Fresh grape leaves are hard to find, so look for the jarred ones at your supermarket. They’re usually in the same section as the jarred olives. C About 30 jarred grape leaves AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
ish-style with ground allspice and mint. The result are lighter, quickercooking stuffed grape leaves that will satisfy everyone, from the low-carb/
C 1 small head of cauliflower, stem and leaves removed, cut into l arge florets (about 3 cups of florets) C 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided C 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped C 1 tablespoon pine nuts C 1 teaspoon tomato paste C 1 tablespoon currants C 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint C Kosher salt and ground black pepper C 2 large (preferably Meyer) lemons, sliced 1/4 inch thick
C 3/4 cup water C 1/2 teaspoon sugar Drain the grape leaves, then carefully unroll and separate them in large bowl. Cover with lots of hot water and soak for 20 minutes to remove excess salt. Drain, rinse in fresh cool water, then dry in layers on paper towels. Set aside. Meanwhile, place the cauliflower florets in a food processor and pulse about 20 times, or until they are reduced to a fluffy rice-like texture. You’ll need about 2 cups packed of this rice, so add florets if needed. Set aside. In a large skillet over medium, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until softening and just starting to turn golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the pine nuts and sauté until golden brown, another 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook until fragrant, another 2 minutes. Add the cauliflower, currants, and mint, then season with salt and pepper. Mix well and remove from heat. To roll the grape leaves, one at a time set each leaf on the counter, vein side up with stem end closest to you. Place about 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center of the leaf, near the stem end. Roll upward from the stem end once, then
fold in the left and right sides, then continue rolling upward, like a little cigar. Keep the roll snug, but not too tight. Squeeze gently in the palm of your hand, then set aside and repeat with the remaining leaves. In a large skillet over medium-low heat, line the bottom with the lemon slices. Arrange the rolled grape leaves over the lemon slices, tucking them tightly against each other so they don’t unfurl while cooking. If needed, you can wedge torn grape leaves or even more pieces of lemon between the stuffed grape leaves to keep them snug. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, the water and sugar. Pour over the leaves. Cover the skillet then simmer gently for about 20 minutes. Allow the stuffed grape leaves to cool slightly in the pan before serving. Nutrition information per stuffed grape leaf: 30 calories; 20 calories from fat (67 percent of total calories); 2 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 2 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 1 g sugar; 1 g protein; 150 mg sodium. Food Network star Aarti Sequeira is the author of “Aarti Paarti: An American Kitchen with an Indian Soul.” She blogs at AartiPaarti.com
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The Cheeky Side of
Pork
El Pote Español’s chef José Lariño offers a recipe on how to prepare pork cheeks
If you don’t already, it’s time to get to know Carrillera de Cerdo, or pork cheeks. This cut, which has been mostly flying under the radar, is uniquely both lean and moist. When cooked properly, it has a melting, silky texture and terrific flavor. Carrillera de Cerdo is a traditional Spanish dish. José Lariño, chef at El Pote Español in Murray Hill, shares his recipe below. As for how pork cheeks found its way onto his menu, Lariño visited Valencia two years ago, tried authentic pork cheeks for the first time, and knew he had to recreate the dish for his restaurant.
RECIPE
Carrillera de Cerdo (Pork Cheeks) C 2 ounces olive oil
When cooked properly, pork cheeks have a melting, silky texture and terrific flavor.
C 8 pieces pork cheeks C Flour, for dusting C 2 cloves garlic, minced C 1 medium-sized carrot, chopped C 1 onion, chopped C Black pepper C 1 shot brandy (3 ounces) C 3 shots red wine (9 ounces total) C 1 sprig thyme C String beans (optional) C Broccoli (optional) SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Heat the oil in a large oven-proof pan. Flour the pork cheeks, and sauté them, 2 minutes on each side. Add chopped garlic, carrots, onion. Sauté for 5 more minutes. Add black pepper to taste. Pour in brandy, and cook for 2 minutes. Then add wine and cook for 5 minutes. Finally add the thyme. Cover the pan and put in oven for 1 hour at 375 F. Serve with boiled string beans and broccoli.
José Lariño, the chef at El Pote Español.
(Recipe from José Lariño, El Pote Español, 718 Second Ave., 212-889-6680, ElPote.com)
Taste Asia
DIY CHEESE?
April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com By Sara Moulton
Homemade Paneer Is an Easy, Fun Project ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
Saag Paneer With Cauliflower and Spinach.
Transferring the curds to a strainer.
D9
Pressing the paneer.
Saag paneer is a delicious and toothsome South Asian dish consisting of cubes of fresh cheese (that’s the paneer) combined with greens (that’s the saag) in a creamy sauce. The first time I made paneer was in the test kitchen at Gourmet magazine. I just about did a happy dance around the room. I couldn’t believe there was a way to make fresh cheese in your own kitchen without any special equipment. And it tasted very fresh, mostly because there were no additives, but also because it had spent no time in the refrigerator absorbing random flavors from its neighbors. Trust me when I tell you that mastering the making of paneer at home (a very simple process) is well worth your time (and it won’t take much of it). There are two basic ways to turn dairy such as milk or cream into cheese—add either rennet or an acid. For today, let’s stick with the acid method, since rennet is harder to come by, and chances are good that you already have an appropriate acid in the kitchen. The only equipment you’ll need is a pot, a thermometer, some cheesecloth, and a strainer. You start by heating your choice of dairy (milk, cream, half-andhalf, or a mixture of the three) in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring often to prevent the
dairy from scorching. Be sure to avoid UHT (ultra-high temperature treated) milks, as they don’t work well for making cheese. When the milk reaches 190 F, the acid is added and everything is briefly stirred. There are two choices of acid: fresh lemon juice, which gives the cheese a slightly citrusy flavor, or distilled white vinegar, which produces a neutral tart taste. The milk is then allowed to stand for 15 minutes, during which it starts to separate into curds and whey almost immediately. After 15 minutes, the milk is poured through a cheeseclothlined strainer set in the sink. I tried dumping all of it at once into the strainer, but the water backed up and the whole process slowed down. Instead, I found it best to transfer the curds to the strainer in batches, using either a skimmer or a slotted spoon. After it drains for 20 minutes, you have your fresh ricotta-ish curd cheese. It’s plenty delicious as is. But this recipe calls for paneer, which is a semi-soft cheese. So after the curds drain for a bit, they are wrapped in cheesecloth and pressed under a weight, which squeezes out excess water and makes the cheese quite firm. Eureka! You’ve made cheese. Now it’s ready to be used in this recipe or any other that calls for a firm fresh cheese. Paneer is also a respectable stand-in for firm tofu! From The Associated Press
Browning the paneer.
RECIPE
Saag Paneer With Cauliflower and Spinach Prep and cooking time: 2 hours (1 hour 20 minutes active)
= 1 tablespoon minced garlic
let the cheese drain for 20 minutes.
= 1 small serrano chili, thinly sliced, seeds removed (if desired)
Twist the cloth around the cheese then set the bundle on plate with the twisted knot on the side. Set a second plate on top of the cheese and weigh it down with several heavy cans or a saucepan. Let the cheese drain until very firm, about 1 hour. Unwrap the paneer and cut it into 1-inch cubes. Set aside.
= 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger = 1/4 teaspoon garam masala
Makes 4 servings
= 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
For the Paneer:
= 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
= 2 quarts whole milk
= Two 11-ounce packages baby spinach
= 1 teaspoon table salt
= 1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)
= 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
Line a large strainer with a double layer of cheesecloth, then set it in a large bowl.
For the Main Dish: = 1 medium head (about 1 1/2 pounds) cauliflower, cut into 1/2-inch pieces = 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided = Kosher salt and ground black pepper = 1 cup thinly sliced yellow onion = 3 plum tomatoes, finely chopped
To make the paneer, in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium heat, combine the milk and salt. Heat the mixture, stirring often, until it reaches 190 F. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the vinegar and let the mixture stand for 15 minutes. Using a skimmer or slotted spoon, gently transfer the curds to the prepared strainer and
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Meanwhile, heat the oven to 425 F. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the cauliflower with 2 tablespoons of the oil and a bit of salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer and bake on the oven’s upper shelf, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside. Once the paneer is pressed and cut, in a large nonstick or stick-resistant skillet over medium, heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the remaining oil. Add the paneer cubes and cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Add the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons of oil to
the skillet. When the oil is heated, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, chili, and ginger. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the garam masala, cayenne, and turmeric and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Several handfuls at a time, place the spinach in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to the skillet, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is very tender, 5 minutes. Add the paneer and roasted cauliflower. Season with salt and pepper, then add cream, if using. Cook just until heated through. Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.”
Taste Asia
D10 April 10–16, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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Sophia Lee, owner of miss Korea.
Power Flower Power continued from D1
My personal favorite is the golden orange pancake. Deriving color and f lavor from pumpkin, it has a nutty sweet flavor. Radishes provide a blush pink worthy of the season, while watercress is used to turn some of the pancakes green. Eat them warm—the exterior is mildly crispy, and these pancakes are served with a bit of honey—just to make the whole package even more floral. (Modeum Jeon, $14.95 for three pieces, $18.95 for nine pieces) But the visual kicker combination is meat and flowers. Even when the meat is USDA Prime kotsal—slices of short rib so marbled with fat all throughout that the cut is referred to as snowflake or flower meat—there is still something not quite visually congruent about the juxtaposition of flowers and meat destined for barbecuing. But this is Koreatown after all, and Korean barbecue rules among customers. And in any case, any budding thoughts about the aesthetic merits of meat and flowers don’t last long in the face of the mouthwatering aro-
plate—bitter melon, chives, chicory, and scallion and mung bean jelly. Lee sometimes sees the lettuce served with Korean barbecue uneaten, presumably because some diners may not know about the practice of wrapping the meat in lettuce. But, she points out that in even in these lettuces, there are healthy properties. “Please eat the lettuce,” she pleaded. There are a few items on the course menu that are examples of royal cuisine already, but Lee is keen to delve deeper into researching the royal cuisine of the Joseon Dynasty. This cuisine, she explained, was exemplary in its healthfulness. A prime concern was to keep the emperor and the imperial household healthy, and the cuisine was refined over time by generations of chefs and cooks. Macy’s Flower show may be past, but you can catch this mini-flower show at miss Korea through the month of April. Four-course lunch course menu $29.95 per person. Dinner course menu $89.95 per person (includes over a dozen dishes, including items from royal cuisine). BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
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mas and tender barbecued short ribs. Miss Korea is one restaurant along this Korean restaurant row that takes a lighter hand with seasoning. Owner Sophia Lee is particularly cognizant of cutting down on the sodium and sugar fest that characterize a lot of Korean restaurant cooking. Her use of flowers stems in part from the visual appeal. But she’s also keen to integrate health benefits and provide nourishing food to help awaken the body—and the senses—from a wintry lull into spring. The little pansies, for example, contain healthful polyphenols. One of the appetizers in the course menu consists of the entire plant—root, shoots, and leaves—of shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris), a watercress-like plant, considered an all-around panacea with detoxifying qualities. “This vegetable is the symbol of spring,” said Lee. She explained that the plant thrives under cold conditions, making it the first plant to be eaten at the start of spring. A salad, bound together by a light, sweet tangy dressing, is likely to be medicine on a
Koreatown’s miss Korea consists of three floors. The second floor is the most regal, taking its inspiration from the Joseon Dynasty.
Glutinous rice pancakes, or Modeum Jeon, served with honey.
Taste Asia
D11 April 10–16, 2015
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Katsu & Sake
Signature dishes you won’t find in other Japanese restaurants
Teavana barista Riaunna Durham prepares matcha tea at Teavana Beverly Hills, Calif.
Discover the Hidden Gem in K-Town
Traditional Matcha Tea
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By Christine Armario LOS ANGELES—More than a thousand years ago, Buddhist monks in Japan began a daily ritual of grinding green tea leaves into powder, mixing it into hot water with a bamboo whisk, then sharing the tea from a single cup. Today matcha in the United States is considerably less monastic. It’s being blended into lattes, dusted onto cheesecakes, mixed into chocolate, even infused in bourbon. The finely ground green tea is experiencing a U.S. renaissance, with specialty matcha tea bars popping up from Los Angeles to New York and industry giants like Teavana adding matcha to its product lineup. Chefs are mixing matcha with grains, using it in toppings for Bundt cakes, and mixing it into cocktails, adding a punch of opulent green color along with a cool, mellow taste to playful culinary combinations. Teavana president Annie Young-Scrivner even uses matcha as a beauty mask. “It’s fantastic,� she said. “It tightens.� The uptick in U.S. demand for matcha is having a spillover effect in Japan, where production of tencha, the raw green leaves that are ground into the powder known as matcha, has doubled in Kyoto Prefecture during the last 10 years, rising from 564 tons in 2003 to more than 1,163 tons in 2013. Once picked by hand, advances in technology have paved the way for mass production. Specialized machines pluck the top leaves from tea shrubs and remove the veins and stems before the rem-
nants are ground with granite stone and sealed in tin cans. Industry leaders hope matcha one day will become a staple in the American kitchen the same way soy sauce did after World War II. They also hope the tea’s long and rich culinary history doesn’t get dissolved in the process. “Ideally, people will learn how to prepare tea as well, not just drink it,� said Kazumi Nishiguchi, a director at the Chamber of Kyoto Prefecture Tea Public Interest Incorporated Association. “We need to export the culture, too. And it’s important that it be done right.� Matcha was first consumed during China’s Tsang dynasty and later was brought to Japan by priests and monks. After a bloody war with the Mongols, tea ceremonies in China came to a halt but continued to flourish across the East China Sea in Japan. The Japanese developed intricate tea ceremonies combining prayer and meditation and perfected the process for making matcha: Tea plants were covered with a shade cloth two to four weeks before harvest, when the leaves contain the most chlorophyll and nutrients, then plucked. Monks praised matcha for its calming effect. Today more is known about the science behind matcha. Growing tea leaves in the shade boosts their amino acids, and because the entire leaf is consumed matcha also contains about 10 times as many antioxidants as regularly brewed green tea. It also gives an energy kick, but with less caffeine than coffee. Matcha likely first entered the U.S. market through Japanese grocery stores in cities like Los Angeles, which has one of the
largest Japanese populations outside Japan. In recent years tea consumption in general has taken off: The wholesale value of tea sold in the United States rose from less than $2 billion in 1990 to more than $10 billion in 2014, according to an annual report by the Tea Association of the U.S.A. Green tea has comprised a smaller share of the U.S. tea market than black, though it has started to pick up as the appeal of specialty teas expands. Still, tea interest in the United States has come in fits and starts; while the overall trend is up, green tea imports to the United States actually dipped last year by 27 percent. “It’s still a coffee drinking nation,� said Jonas Feliciano, a client manager at Nielsen Perishables Group. Some of the biggest matcha producers are reporting big U.S. sales growth. DoMatcha, sold at Whole Foods and U.S. specialty stores, has seen an annual spike in sales of 30 percent, while Ippodo has seen growth of 20 to 25 percent in recent years and opened its first brick-and-mortar store outside Japan in New York City in 2013. Chains like Starbucks now offer green tea lattes with matcha; Teavana sells a bamboo whisking set. Across the Pacific, Japan hasn’t been immune to the forces of cultural adaptation either. “Matcha sweets are everywhere,� said Kenichi Kano, Ippodo’s international director. “Matcha cake, matcha chocolate, matcha macaroons.� As lifestyles in Japan get busier, ready-to-go matcha beverages have replaced tea ceremonies and restaurants are experimenting with matcha powder and extract in ice cream,
beer, and alcohol. “Japan respects the traditional tea ceremony,� said Rona Tison, a senior vice president with Ito En, one of the world’s largest green tea distributors. “But they are becoming Westernized as well.� From The Associated Press
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Brownie Cravings? Try These Guilt-Free Tofu Brownies By CiCi Li Mie Okuda, the executive chef of Momokawa in Kips Bay, has created a series of healthy recipes to satisfy body, soul, and palate. “Enjoying foods is a gift to our lives,� said Okuda, the author of the healthy recipe e-book “Thinking of You.� When it comes to dieting, Okuda doesn’t believe in restricting food intake. Instead, she replaces unhealthy ingredients with healthy ones. She believes that when you are eating well, the brain is satisfied, the cravings subside, and the body naturally attains its right balance. Since I’ve been craving brownies for a while hoping to eat a bit healthier, I met up with Okuda and asked her to teach me a guilt-free brownie recipe. She offered me a low-sugar and low-fat recipe because she uses sugar-free dark chocolate and replaces butter with tofu. Tofu Associations When people mention tofu, I immediately associate tofu with savory dishes like Chinese mapo tofu, Korean spicy
CiCi Li (L) with Mie Okuda, chef and owner of Momokawa.
tofu soup, or Japanese miso tofu soup. But tofu and brownies? Not a combination I’d ever thought of. What I learned from Okuda is that tofu makes a good substitute for butter. A cup of butter, which has 184 grams of fat can be substituted with a cup of tofu, which has 6 to 7 grams of fat. To cut down on fat even more, you can use more cocoa powder and reduce the amount of dark chocolate. This recipe for tofu brownies is adapted from the original recipe in her book. It’s perfect for anyone who is on a diet or can’t have foods high in sugar, carbohydrates, fat, or sodium.
RECIPE
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Tofu Brownies
and mix everything well.
Pork Belly 15.99 Pork Jowls 16.99 Marinated Kalbi 22.99 Aged Ribeye 22.99
Makes 16 servings
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form. Then slowly mix the egg whites into the batter.
< 1 cup of silken tofu < 2 eggs, separated < 1/4 cup powdered sugar < 1 pinch salt < 1/4 cup flour < 2 tablespoons sugar-free cocoa powder < 1/2 teaspoon baking powder < 2 ounces of sugar free dark chocolate
Pour the batter into a 8â&#x20AC;? by 8â&#x20AC;? by 3â&#x20AC;?cake pan. Sprinkle with chopped walnuts. Bake it in the oven at 330 F for 35 minutes. Let cool before cutting and serving. (Recipe adapted from â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thinking of Youâ&#x20AC;? by Mie Okuda, Momokawa Culinary Arts, 2014)
< A dash of pure vanilla extract
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< 8 walnuts, chopped Preheat the oven to 330 F. Wet Ingredients: Wrap the tofu in cheesecloth and squeeze tightly to drain. Then place tofu in a blender and mix until smooth and creamy. Transfer the tofu to a bowl and add sugar, egg yolks, and vanilla extract. Use a whisk to mix all the ingredients together. Dry Ingredients: Mix the flour, baking powder, salt, and cocoa powder with a spatula. Melt the dark chocolate in a microwave for 20 second and stir until smooth. Combine the melted chocolate with the wet ingredients and mix well together. Then combine the mixture with the dry ingredients
CiCi Li prepares tofu brownies.
I really enjoyed these tofu brownies. I actually couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t detect a tofu flavor. These brownies are light and not overly sweet. In terms of texture, they are silky, moist, and buttery. Cheers for this guilt-free recipe! CiCi Li is the presenter of â&#x20AC;&#x153;CiCiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Food Paradiseâ&#x20AC;? on NTD Television. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a television producer, food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventure and discover the endless wonders of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Food Paradiseâ&#x20AC;? at CiCiLi.tv
When people mention tofu, I immediately think of savory dishes like mapo tofu. But tofu and brownies? Not a combination Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d ever thought of.