ALL PHOTOS BY LISA ROMEREIN
D1 May 27–June 2, 2016 A Delicious
Southport Getaway on D10
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Chef Tal Ronnen’s Artichoke Oysters with Tomato Béarnaise and Kelp Caviar. Find the recipe at EpochTaste.com
Vegan Evolution The many styles of vegan
V
Vegan has come a long way, baby!
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
egan food was once scorned, dismissed as bland, soulless grub for hippies. Giving up animal products meant having to forgo all things delicious. “I had to survive off of sunflower seeds and wheat germs,” recalled chef Rich Landau, who first went vegetarian as a teenager, then transitioned to becoming vegan.
Chef Tal Ronnen’s Acorn Squash Ravioli with Kale and Black Garlic Butter Sauce.
Dining out was an atrocity. “You would be ordering a salad without the bacon. As far as vegan was concerned, people didn’t even know how to pronounce it,” said chef Kate Jacoby. But after years of media and advocate attention about the health, animal welfare, and environmental benefits of eating more vegetables, the idea of vegan food isn’t so foreign to eaters anymore. Cookbook author Mark Bittman even touts the “vegan before 6:00” diet for improving one’s health.
See Vegan on D2
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com LISA ROMEREIN
MICHAEL SPAIN-SMITH
Eggplant Braciole with salsa verde from Vedge in Philadelphia.
LISA ROMEREIN
Find Chef Tal Ronnen’s select vegan recipes at EpochTaste.com
(Above) Chef Tal Ronnen makes a vegan version of the Greek spinachand-feta pie, spanakopita, with kale and almond ricotta. It’s served with harissa sauce and mint oil. Ronnen’s Los Angeles vegan restaurant, Crossroads, focuses on the flavors of Mediterranean cuisine.
Vegan Evolution Vegan continued from D1 Chefs across the country, like Jacoby and Landau, have also transformed vegan cooking by creating exciting dishes that appeal to diners of all tastes. Jacoby and Landau head the highly acclaimed Philly restaurant Vedge, where they only cook with plants. This year, they were nominated for the James Beard award for Outstanding Pastry Chef and Best Chef for the Mid-Atlantic region, respectively. These days, going vegan is hip, with vegan restaurants attracting lines out the door and expanding quickly with chain locations. The landscape of vegan cooking has also grown incredibly diverse, but what the country’s most successful vegan chefs have in common is an ability to coax incredible flavors out of plants. Vedge Revolution Landau was an unabashed meat lover. But after learning about the inhumane conditions in slaughterhouses and factory farms, he quit eating meat. Afterward, he took up cooking to prove to himself that non-meat dishes can taste as good as the meat he once enjoyed. “My cooking philosophy was to convince my palate that you can have satisfying meals without animal products,” he said. He realized it wasn’t the meat, but rather “what chefs do [to dishes] that tastes really great,” he said. When Landau smells meat on a barbecue grill, he thinks of how to give carrots that smoky quality. So first he chargrills them over wood chips, then puts them back on the grill just before they’re served. The result is a crispy skin that resembles sausage casing, with a pillowy-soft texture on the inside. At Vedge, Landau and Jacoby experiment with seasonal vegetables and the myriad ways to prepare them in a section of the menu called “the dirt list.” They try each one raw, pickled, “figuring out what makes it pop in a way that’s new to people’s palates,” said Jacoby. A recent dish featured grilled celery simmered in pea pod dashi, with ramps and Yukon Gold potato noodles. The couple also travels frequently to get inspiration from culinary traditions that are naturally vegan-friendly. A trip to Morocco last year taught them how to approach spices
differently, and a trip to Japan in 2008 left them appreciating “the subtlety of using great ingredients and practicing restraint,” which changed the way they made stocks and sauces, said Jacoby. Mediterranean Flair Chef Tal Ronnen of Crossroads in Los Angeles focuses his vegan cooking on one particular tradition—Mediterranean cuisine. Growing up in Israel with sisters who were vegetarian, Ronnen was exposed to plant-based dishes from an early age. He and executive chef J. Scot Jones (who had 25 years of experience cooking northern Italian food) noticed that at other vegan restaurants, “we would see miso soup and nachos on the same menu, and that didn’t make sense to us,” Ronnen said. Mediterranean dishes, rich in grains, beans, spices, and olive oil, are easy to translate into vegan versions. The menu at Crossroads includes a green chickpea fagioli, lentil flatbreads, and pastas made with almond cheese created by Ronnen’s company Kite Hill. But Ronnen also recreates dishes that he misses or that his customers crave. For a bagel and lox, he smokes carrots over hickory, then adds ground nori to impart a briny, seafood flavor. For dishes with a French influence, he gets creative making French sauces. Yellow tomatoes are used to whip up béarnaise sauce, with a dash of Kala Namak salt (high in sulfur) to mimic the taste of egg yolks. Porcini mushrooms, naturally rich in umami, replace meat stock in bordelaise sauce. At other times, Ronnen is inspired by visual cues. One time, an artichoke leaf fell on the plate. It struck Ronnen that the leaf looked like an oyster shell. So he took some oyster mushrooms—which are meaty like the real bivalves— and fried them with ground nori, then placed them on top of the leaves, along with artichoke heart purée and tomato béarnaise. To Ronnen, cooking with only vegetables doesn’t limit him; it allows him to develop new ways of cooking. “If people cook the same way that other chefs have cooked for 100 years, that’s when you get stuck in a box,” he said. Vegan Means Business Despite the enormous strides made in the vegan COURTESY OF MOTHER OF PEARL
Chef Daphne Cheng’s Green Mango Poke with tomato, jicama, crispy rice, and macadamia nuts.
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com MICHAEL SPAIN-SMITH
MICHAEL SPAIN-SMITH
MICHAEL SPAIN-SMITH
(Clockwise) Vedge’s Fancy Radish dish: French breakfast radishes with nori, tamari, and avocado. Vedge’s vegan take on steak frites: Portobello Frites with red wine reduction, tarragon, and dijon mustard. Vedge chefs Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby are constantly experimenting with different ways to prepare seasonal vegetables, looking for how to make them sing. Both were recently nominated for James Beard Awards.
dining scene, Ronnen, Landau, and Jacoby agree that more needs to be done to dispel diners’ stereotypes about vegan food. One New York City restaurateur, Ravi DeRossi, is on a mission to do just that—by proving that vegan restaurants can be profitable. DeRossi, who has been vegan since before entering the restaurant business, is gradually converting some of his restaurants to 100 percent vegan, while planning to open new vegan eateries. DeRossi, an animal lover, was devastated after his pet cat died of a terminal illness. He came to the conclusion that he had abandoned his ethics while operating so many restaurants that served meat (he owns more than a dozen). “I lost my conscience. My morals went out the window in favor of making money,” he said. Sensing a change in people’s palates, DeRossi opened his first vegan restaurant, Avant Garden, in the fall of 2015, choosing chef Alex Aparicio (formerly of Dovetail) to create a menu that caters to both vegans and non-vegans alike. “I’m looking for chefs who can cook food with enough flavor, spices, and salt to make the average person feel satiated,” he said. Aparicio’s dishes delight the taste buds with layers and layers of flavors, like white gazpacho soup with grapes, dill, and cucumbers;
and cauliflower with spinach, oyster mushrooms, dates, and a Vadouvan spice blend. The restaurant has been packed every night. DeRossi then converted another of his restaurants, Mother of Pearl, into a vegan restaurant, with chef Daphne Cheng serving her own spin on Hawaiian cuisine. Since converting in February, Mother of Pearl’s profits have doubled, DeRossi said. Cheng, being Chinese-American, saw similarities between Polynesian and Chinese cuisines. She researched commonly used native ingredients, like rum, taro, sugarcane, tropical fruits, and coconut milk, and combined them in Chinese-inspired dishes like rum fried rice with dragon fruit, orange edamame, and pineapple rum; and Kahlua-jackfruitand-shiitake-mushroom buns with ginger aioli and five-spice ketchup. DeRossi has plans for more, including a vegan Japanese omakase restaurant, a butcher shop carrying imitation meats, and a tapas bar. He believes the demand for vegan food will only continue to grow, as more people become aware of the environmental impacts of raising livestock. “If we don’t do this now [eat more vegetables], we’ll be forced to do it in the future,” he said. With more chefs like Jacoby, Landau, Ronnen, and Cheng, that future will at least be delicious. COURTESY OF DEROSSI GLOBAL
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
sagaponacknyc.com
New York restaurateur Ravi DeRossi wants to convert more of his restaurants to vegan.
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF A&ND DINING
THE WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS HOSTS KOREANYC DINNERS For three evenings, Korea’s top chefs will team up with some of New York’s best for collaborative haute-Korean dinners. Korean chefs Jinmo Jang of A&ND Dining and Hyun-Seok Choi of Elbon the table will partner with chef Carlo Mirarchi of Blanca in Brooklyn; Mingoo Kang of Mingles and Tony Yoo of 24 Seasons will join forces with chef Dan Barber of Blue Hill in Greenwich Village; and all four Korean chefs will work with chef-restaurateur Jungsik Yim for a grand feast at Jungsik’s New York branch in Tribeca. Tickets are available by contacting each restaurant.
stuff to eat and drink around nyc
MEMORIAL DAY GOLF AT SYNDICATED
Chef Jinmo Jang. COURTESY OF 24 SEASONS
Thursday, June 9–Saturday, June 11 Blanca 261 Moore St., Brooklyn blancanyc.com
The Bushwick restaurant-movie theater Syndicated is celebrating Memorial Day with barbecue and a minigolf course (complete with movie-related obstacles). Chef Bret Macris will prepare Barbecue Beef Ribs glazed with Downeast hard cider and served on a Parker House roll, with coleslaw and potato salad. The theater will play the classic golf comedy “Caddyshack” and the 1964 black comedy “Dr. Strangelove.”
Blue Hill 75 Washington Place bluehillfarm.com/dine/new-york Jungsik 2 Harrison Place jungsik.kr
Monday, May 30 Syndicated 40 Bogart St., Brooklyn syndicatedbk.com
Chef Tony Yoo’s Peeled Fig and Ginseng with Angelica gigas purée.
COURTESY OF LUCKY RICE FESTIVAL
LOTUS LUNCH SERIES AT CLEMENT
DOGFISH HEAD’S 21ST BIRTHDAY
For a mindful lunch, join Clement for its bimonthly Lotus Lunch Series. The restaurant inside The Peninsula New York hotel will host you for an hourlong yoga class, followed by a two-course lunch. Options include Slow Roasted Chicken with trumpet royale mushroom, cranberries, Brussels sprouts, and thyme jus; Tuna Crudo with cucumber, white soy, and trout roe; and Quinoa Burger on a grilled onion-potato bun with red cabbage slaw. $150 per person.
The craft brewery is celebrating its 21st birthday at Barcade Chelsea by pouring 21 draft lines of its most popular ales from its 21 years of brewing. Those include the new Biere de Provence, summer beers like Festina Pêche and Namaste, and early concoctions Higher Math and Positive Contact. Founder and President Sam Calagione will be in attendance. Tuesday, June 7 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Barcade Chelsea, 148 W. 24th St. dogfish.com
Various dates through July 23 10 a.m. 700 Fifth Ave. ept.ms/lotuslunchseries
COURTESY OF TAVERN ON THE GREEN
VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO CLASSIC Pork Jowl on Endive from Bunsmith. COURTESY OF LUCKY RICE FESTIVAL
Spend an afternoon viewing a polo match while sipping fine Champagne. The city’s most popular food trucks will be there— perfect for picnicking along Liberty State Park in New Jersey. $75 to $400 per person. In New York, chef Laurent Tourondel is hosting a satellite event at the Hotel Eventi, where guests can watch the polo match on screen while food is served and live entertainment enjoyed. Saturday, June 4 Noon–10 p.m. Liberty State Park, Morris Pesin Drive, Jersey City veuveclicquot.tumblr.com
BROADWAY ON THE GREEN ERIN KESTENBAUM/URBANSPACE
Dumplings from The Lucky Bee.
LUCKY RICE FESTIVAL The Lucky Rice Festival is back in New York to celebrate the diversity of Asian cuisine. More than 30 restaurants will offer tastings, including Maharlika, Lucky Bee, Tuome, Pokeworks, RedFarm, La Chine, Talde, and Jue Lan Club. Look forward to dishes like Chicken Adobo Roulade, Blue Crab and Shrimp Dumplings, Cantonese Sausage Seared White Rice, and Braised Pork Jowl on Endive. $88 to $150 per person. Thursday, June 2 7 p.m.–10 p.m. Industry City 233 37th St., Brooklyn luckyrice.com
For a limited time, cast members from Broadway’s top shows will perform in the courtyard at Tavern on the Green, located in Central Park. Dinner guests will be able to enjoy performances from “Something Rotten” (June 5), “Finding Neverland” (June 19), and “Fiddler on the Roof” (June 26). Tavern on the Green 1 Tavern on the Green (67th Street & Central Park West) For reservations, visit tavernonthegreen.com/reservations
BROADWAY BITES
COURTESY OF LA NUIT EN ROSE
The warm weather means food vendors are back at Greeley Square every day for the summer season. The vendors include Mr. Bing (Chinese savory pancakes), Dundu (African dishes), Renegade Lemonade, Calexico (Mexican), Doughnuttery, and more. Friday, June 3–Sunday, July 17 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Greeley Square Broadway (between 32nd & 33rd streets) urbanspacenyc.com/broadway-bites
COURTESY OF COFFEE CON
COFFEE CON Further your coffee appreciation at the Coffee Con, with seminars on all sorts of coffee-related subjects: how to roast your beans at home, how to develop your palate, what is sustainable coffee, and more. Ticket holders will get to sample different coffees from around the world. $22.50 to $45 per person. Saturday, June 4 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Industry City 233 37th St., Brooklyn coffee-con.com
LA NUIT EN ROSE The annual festival devoted to rosé wine is back in time for summer. Aboard the Hornblower Infinity yacht, you’ll get to sample 150 different rosés, nibble on snacks from local restaurants, and enjoy live music and entertainment. A VIP fourcourse dinner will be curated by Marcus’s Bermuda, chef Marcus Samuelsson’s restaurant in the Hamilton Princess hotel in Bermuda. $95 to $250 per person. Thursday, June 9–Saturday, June 11 Pier 40 353 West St. nuitrose.com
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com LAUREN DEFILIPPO
NEW MENUS AT MAYA AND ZENGO Chef Richard Sandoval has launched new menus at his Mexican restaurants, inspired by his recent travels. At Zengo, Sandoval adds Asian flavors inspired by his tour of Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Thailand, with dishes like Tuna Tartar Tostada with avocado, wonton, radish, and ponzu; Wagyu Beef Tiradito with smoked ikura (salmon roe), crispy shallot, tempura serrano, and tom yum sauce; and Chinese Braised Short Rib Flatbread with manchego cheese, arugula, and horseradish crema. At Maya, Sandoval cooks up dishes that showcase the flavors of Mexico City, like Chile Atole, Mexico-City-style corn soup, with roasted poblano, epazote, corn masa croutons, chile piquin, and lime; and Envelt de Pezcado, grilled striped bass wrapped in corn husk with salsa ranchera, avocado espuma, sautÊed heirloom tomatoes, and steamed rice.
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
LAUREN DEFILIPPO
Zengo 622 Third Ave. Maya 1191 First Ave. richardsandoval.com
(Top) BQ Salmon from Zengo. (Bottom) Heirloom Tomato Salad from Zengo.
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Sta
ALL PHOTOS BY LISA HOULGRAVE
We Now Deliver!
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
JAPANESE STYLE Karaoke Bar & Lounge
For Reservations and Information clubvoa@gmail.com
✴ 3 VIP Karaoke Rooms
Ellie Krieger on the set of her new show, “Ellie’s Real Good Food.�
249 East 49th St., 2nd Fl. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) CLUBVOA.NYC Hours: Mon–Sat 9pm–3am, Fri 9pm–4am, Sun (bar only) 8pm–2am
Finding the Sweet Spot Where Delicious Meets Healthy By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Ellie Krieger’s new show on American Public Television has a reality component, but not the kind you might think of, with flashes of carbon steel and intense, sweating chefs. Instead Krieger tackles the reality that many face: reallife food challenges at home and in the workplace. “Ellie’s Real Good Foodâ€? is a 13-part original series showing on public television stations nationwide. Each episode features a cry for help, from someone experiencing a challenge. “In the first episode it’s this busy working mom who’s a labor–delivery nurse,â€? Krieger said. “She has teenagers and they’re all running out the door in the morning, barely stuďŹƒng bars in their mouths. They just feel really stuck with getting meals on the table.â€? In swoops Krieger, who cooks with the nurse, and then takes her back to her own kitchen, oering tips and encouragement. Krieger has seen people becoming more conscious about eating in a healthy way over the years. But a downside she has noticed has been a growing tribalism. “People more than ever have more of a tribalistic sort of idea about food where they’re in a certain camp almost,â€?
she said. As a result, they’re not coming together and sharing a sense of community around food. In one episode, she meets a couple with some food differences: she is vegetarian, he’s a meat eater. “They’re happily married but they make totally dierent meals every night,â€? she said. “They’re totally separate meals, they have tons of dishes because of it, they eat at different times because their food’s ready at dierent times, they’re stepping over each other in the kitchen.â€? Krieger helped them find realistic solutions in cooking dishes that could serve them both—for example, a vegetarian main course that he could add steak to if he wanted. But the point was to get them to eat essentially the same thing, and to do so together. Krieger herself doesn’t believe in diets, and instead relegates foods into the categories of “usually,â€? “sometimes,â€? and “rarely,â€? establishing an overall healthy eating pattern “so you never have to feel guilty or like you did something wrong,â€? she said. “So that’s what I tell people: Find that sweet spot where delicious and healthy meet.â€? “Ellie’s Real Good Foodâ€? premiered on May 20 on American Public Television. See elliesrealgoodfood.com for television station listings.
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
The Sou ffle Fell In the May 20 issue of “Dig In,â€? the availability of Solomon and Ku’s brunch menu was incorrectly listed. It is served every weekend, but the reggae party brunch is served every third Sunday of the month. In the May 20 issue of “Brick & Mortar,â€? the address, phone number, and website for The Norm were incorrect. The Norm is located on the ground floor of the Brooklyn Museum, 200 Eastern Parkway, 718-230-0897, thenormbkm.com Epoch Times regrets the errors.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC
ALL NATURAL ORGANIC YOUNG CHICKEN BROTH Hinata’s Special
Yuzu Shio Soba
100% VEGAN RAMEN
$14.50 Spring Special until end of May
Also Available
Mention EPOCH and Get One FREE Topping
&
Healthy Natural
OPEN 7 Days M-F 11:30am-11:30pm Sat 12:00pm-11:30pm Sun 4:00pm-11:30pm
HINATA RAMEN
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) / 212.355.2974
A Perfect Fusion of East & West
EVAN SUNG
Olmsted Olmsted has just opened two blocks away from Prospect Park, which was, along with Central Park, designed by the restaurant’s namesake Frederick Law Olmsted. The 50-seat Prospect Park restaurant from chef and owner Greg Baxtrom and farmer Ian Rothman features a seasonal menu and draws from Baxtrom’s experience at Alinea, Per Se, Atera, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and Lysverket in Norway. Among the menu options are Fried Pickled Fiddlehead Ferns; Radish Top Gazpacho with smoked trout roe, radish and lemon balm; Guinea Hen, roasted and confit, with ramps and morels; and New York Grassfed Steak with potato “Dauphinoise,” tarragon, and lemon. Cocktails are likewise seasonal, including the Sassafrass with sweet vermouth, Frenet Branca, sassafrass syrup, and soda; and the Lavender with herbs de provence-infused bourbon, Pedro Ximenez sherry, black walnut bitters, and a lavender sprig. The wine list includes value-focused wines from Old and New Worlds, while tea offerings range from recently harvested firstflush Darjeeling to Pu’erh teas. A 25-seat backyard garden beckons in warm weather. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
NY Grass Fed Steak with Potato “Dauphinoise,” Tarragon, Lemon.
659 Vanderbilt Ave. (at Park Place) 718-552-2610 olmstednyc.com
Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
Shangri La 208 7th Ave.
KATIE BURTON
(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
New omakase sushi restaurant Sushi Ginza Onodera, led by chef Masaki Saito, distinguishes itself by offering almost all wild caught fish, imported from Japan, and delivered several times a week. The restaurant also sources rice from specific farmers. The house soy sauce is a proprietary blend, and the the vinegar is an authentic Edomae-sushi style vinegar. The omokase dinner is priced at either $300 or $400 per person, served at the counter, while in June a $200 menu will be served at the table. Lunch service, which will start in June, will offer menus priced at $70, $100, and $130. All prices include service. The 32-seat space features an Oya stone wall, made from lava and ash, and ancient Bizen-yaki tiles. Sushi Ginza Onodera has branches in Tokyo, London, Honolulu, Paris, Hong Kong, and Shanghai, with another to open in West Hollywood in September. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
TACOS All day, every day
A huge selection of Tacos, made the traditional way with authentic fillings and flavors such as: CARNITAS BISTEC OREJA LENGUA AND MORE! Did we mention they start at $3?
We also serve torta sandwiches!
Taqueria Tehuitzingo
Branzino With Charred Onion Broth, Spring Garlic, and Legumes Cassoulet.
Schilling
Hours Daily 11:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m.
461 Fifth Ave. (between East 40th & East 41st streets) 212-390-0925 sushi-onodera.com
Michelin-starred chef Eduard Frauneder (of Edi & the Wolf and Freud) has opened a new bistro in the Financial District, Schilling. The bistro features a contemporary take on Austrian cuisine with a Mediterranean touch. Dishes include Braised Lamb Shoulder with Israeli couscous, harissa, confit tomatoes, mustard greens, and pistachio crumble; Wiener Schnitzel with potato salad, cucumber salad, and lingonberry; and Branzino with charred onion broth, spring garlic, and legumes cassoulet. The 70-seat restaurant includes a 24-seat communal table, and a front-windowed garage door opens up for al fresco dining. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday. Sunday and daytime service to come.
SIDNEY BENSIMON
109 Washington St. (between Carlisle & Rector streets) 212-406-1200 schillingnyc.com
Dazzler Beer Garden The 3,200-square-foot Dazzler Beer Garden has opened at the Dazzler Brooklyn Hotel in downtown Brooklyn. Designed with traditional wooden communal tables and oversized barrels, the beer garden features local brews, beers from around the world, as well as cocktails. A seasonal menu featuring a variety of small plates including Beer Braut with onion marmalade and Traditional Salted Pretzels to BBQ Short Rib Sliders with cilantro slaw. Dazzler Hotels are part of an upscale collection of properties by Argentine brand Fën Hotels, with the Brooklyn location being the first to open in the United States. Open daily from 5 p.m.
695 10th Ave (@ 48th St.) + 578 W. 9th. Ave (Btw 41st & 42nd St)
646-707-3916 + TaqueriaTehutzingo.com
Sushi Ginza Onodera
85 Flatbush Ave. Extension (between Concord & Tillary streets) Downtown Brooklyn 718-329-9537 dazzlerhoteles.com/en
Chef Günter Seeger.
Günter Seeger NY After some time in Atlanta, German-born chef Günter Seeger, who has garnered awards including a Michelin star, has opened a restaurant in the Meatpacking District. Günter Seeger NY offers a produce-driven New American tasting menu (starting at $185), and through the Book an Experience feature on the restaurant website, guests can customize their experience by indicating their allergies, special occasions, wine preferences, and more. The 34-seat restaurant, designed in a lavender and gray palette, has the feel of a townhouse and features family heirlooms and pieces from Seeger’s personal art collection. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday.
641 Hudson St. (between Horatio & Gansevoort streets) 646-657-0045 gunterseegerny.com
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com EVAN SUNG
Baked Potato. EVAN SUNG
68 Greenpoint Ave. (between West & Franklin streets) Greenpoint, Brooklyn 347-422-0645 hailmarybk.com
Sohla and Ham El-Waylly.
Hail Mary Husband-and-wife team Ham and Sohla El-Waylly are bringing their dining work experience (from places such as Atera, Del Posto, Empellón Cocina, and Momofuku) to update the classic American diner. “The American diner takes its influences from several cultures. You have matzo ball soup, spanakopita, and croque madame on a menu slathered with home fries and American cheese,” said El-Waylly in a press release. “We love the all-encompassing nature of the diner menu and see it as an ideal restaurant concept to allow us to creatively meld our varying cultural heritage and culinary interests under one roof.” Ham grew up in Doha, Qatar, with an Egyptian father and Bolivian mother, while Sohla is first-generation American born to Bengali parents. An Egg All Day section includes Deviled Egg Dip with trout roe, smoked maple, and homemade “Ritz” crackers; Toad in a Hole with a fried duck egg, preserved lemon and fresh herbs; and the Puff Benny, an extra large profiterole filled with hollandaise, ham, and a slow-poached egg. The dessert menu includes The Paulie Gee Malt with burrata ice cream, Mike’s Hot Honey, and Guanciale; as well as candy bars such as Rose Nougat & Cashew “Snickers” and Cardamon & Pistachio Butter Cups. Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday, and weekend brunch.
CAYLA ZAHORAN
Halifax Owner Michael Barry and executive chef Seadon Shouse offer a taste of Nova Scotia with a Manhattan skyline. Halifax, located at the W Hoboken, features only Marine Stewardship Council Certified seafood, and meats sourced directly from farms. The menu includes maple-glazed smoked wild salmon; smoked pollock rillettes; Barnegat sea scallops with cauliflower, golden raisins, capers and beurre blanc; and Maine lobster rigatoni with trumpet mushrooms and lemon. The Bubbles brunch features unlimited small plates and a bottle of Champagne; it has two seatings, one from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., and the other from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner; and brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Pork lomo, garlic salami, maple smoked salmon, smoked trout, and smoked mussels.
At the W Hoboken 225 River St. Hoboken, N.J. 201-253-2500 halifaxhoboken.com
Shake Shack The newest Manhattan location of Shake Shack has opened in Herald Square. In addition to Shake Shack classics, the location carries these exclusive concretes: Empire State (chocolate custard, peanut butter sauce, banana, chocolate truffle cookie dough, and sugar cone cookie), Give My Regards… (vanilla custard, salted caramel sauce, Mast Brothers Shake Shack dark chocolate chunks, malt, and chocolate toffee), and Hit Parade (vanilla custard, strawberry purée, Milk & Cookies Bakery cream cheese pound cake, marshmallow sauce, and crunchy rainbow sprinkles). Open daily from 11 a.m.
1333 Broadway (at West 36th Street) 646-230-0696 shakeshack.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
212-594-4963 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY RICHARD DREW/AP
ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com
Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts
57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN
Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s Chinese Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK
Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
WEST VILLAGE
Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
Spice Market Asian Fusion
W i Din n n at er
MIDTOWN EAST
Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
QUEENS
Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.
403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com
Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings
Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
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Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
Chef Eric Ripert inspects truffles in the kitchen of his restaurant, Le Bernardin, in Manhattan on May 17.
Chef Eric Ripert Recalls Uphill Climb to Culinary Greatness By Jocelyn Noveck
W
hen Eric Ripert turned 18, he had a crisis of confidence. He was working in Paris at the famed La Tour D’Argent, a grueling first step on the journey from his childhood in the mountains of Andorra to where he is now—one of the most admired chefs in the world, leading Manhattan’s elegant Le Bernardin for more than 20 years. But one day, it occurred to him that perhaps he should be a fashion model instead. “I had finally started dating,” he explains with a grin. “And a girlfriend said, ‘Wow, you’re good-looking, you should be a model!” Ripert’s mother back in Andorra, a tiny principality between Spain and France, was dismayed. But she had fashion-world connections, and arranged a meeting for her son at the Courrèges label. And that’s where they set him straight. “Listen,” a man at the fashion house told Ripert. “You may think you’re goodlooking, and probably in your home village, you are. But this is Paris!” It was, Ripert says now, “the shortest meeting I ever had in my life.” Somehow, that anecdote never made it into Ripert’s engrossing new memoir, “32 Yolks,” which came out this week. But the 51-yearold chef recalled it as he sat down with The Associated Press recently at Le Bernardin and reflected on his arduous climb to the pinnacle of the culinary world. Being a top chef was a dream he’d had since he was a young boy hanging out after school in a local chef’s kitchen, polishing off bowls of chocolate mousse. “I always had a passion for eating—and for good ingredients,” Ripert said. That passion for ingredients had been on display just minutes before the interview, as Ripert prepared for the restaurant’s lunchtime opening. His first task was to sample the sauces, as he does each day in his bustling but airy kitchen, staffed by more than 50 cooks. “Too spicy,” he had quietly pronounced of the sauce intended for octopus. “Spicy is good,” he explained later, “but what we don’t want is to be burned here”—he touched the sides of his throat. The cook in charge of the sauce station was already correcting the situation by discarding half, then adding more and calibrating the ingredients. It’s hardly a simple task; the sauce station is the toughest in the kitchen. “You start with salads and move up in the hierarchy and end in the sauce station,” Ripert said, echoing his own training. “In every kitchen it’s the most difficult. Because you’re basically capturing flavors in a liquid, and that’s complicated.” And it’s not just about capturing flavors, but
keeping them calibrated all night long. “The last client should have the same taste as the first client. But some ingredients expand, and some die,” he explained. “And some are killers, they destroy everything.” A drop of lemon juice, for example: “An hour later any other flavor that was with it is dead.” Ripert knows well what it’s like to be that guy at the kitchen station—any station. “32 Yolks” refers to his disastrous first day at La Tour d’Argent, his first job out of culinary school. He was asked to mince some shallots; he sliced his finger open on the first one. Then he was asked to take 32 yolks and make a hollandaise sauce. He bombed. Then he was asked to fetch some chervil. He had no idea what it looked like. Two weeks later, he hoisted a 3-foot tall pot of boiling water and lost control. When he removed his socks, his scalded skin peeled off with them. He was sent home for a three-week recovery, but hobbled back a week later with swollen feet to show his dedication. And worse was to come. Ripert’s next boss, culinary wizard Joel Robuchon, was obsessed with earning a third Michelin star, and worked his staff to extremes; once, he asked them to peel every single pea individually, to remove the tiny sprout inside. “I saw a few guys punch the walls,” Ripert wrote of his time there. “Some guys suffered crippling anxiety attacks.” Still, he greatly admires Robuchon’s talent and calls him “my hero.” Ripert also wrote with frankness of his childhood—of happy years with his father before his parents divorced, and unhappy times afterward with his stepfather, who bullied him, made his home life hell, and sent him to boarding school, where, a priest made advances on him. Throughout, food saved him: He ended up at culinary school, which launched his career. Ripert was in his 20s when he got the offer to go to Washington and work for French chef Jean-Louis Palladin at the Watergate Hotel (the book ends here). We have to ask, was it finally smooth sailing? Hardly, Ripert laughs. “I didn’t speak English,” he said. “And I guess I had an ego, and the naive idea that America was the continent of burgers, and I was coming to save the world. I expected a red carpet. That was a rude awakening.” Things got so tough, he thought of going home. But he stayed, and in 1991, he was summoned to New York by Gilbert LeCoze at Le Bernardin. Three years later, LeCoze died, and Ripert took over as head chef. The rest is culinary history, and Ripert sees no end coming soon. “Passion never goes away,” he said. “I’ll be here for a long time.” From The Associated Press
Make Epoch Taste Even Tastier
We want to get to know you and your taste buds better, so we can continue to delight your senses.
Ripert in the dining room of Le Bernardin.
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY J.M.HIRSCH/AP
Love Refried Beans? Try Edamame With a Mexican Spin By Sara Moulton The first time I ate fresh soybeans was, naturally enough, at a Japanese restaurant. Known as edamame, the dish is a staple of Japanese restaurant menus. They were served as an appetizer, in their pods, steamed and sprinkled with salt. It took a little work to suck the cooked fresh soybeans out of their pods, but who cared? I was out to dinner and in no rush. Besides they were delicious, meaty, and flavorful. They reminded me of lima beans minus the funkiness. And, big surprise, not only are they good, they’re good for you. Of course, all legumes wear a nutritional halo, but the one radiating from soybeans is especially blinding. They boast more protein than any other legume, and they’re a great source of folate, vitamin K, calcium, iron, and fiber. But the idea of putting edamame on a home cook’s menu for a weeknight meal? It never entered my mind. Then, several years after my restaurant revelation, I noticed a recipe in Gourmet magazine that featured frozen shelled edamame, the beans freed from their pods, combined with butter and buttermilk. Who knew you could buy them already shelled? Suddenly a new world opened up. Following the Gourmet recipe, I began boiling, steaming, or mashing shelled edamame according to my mood. Here, I’ve taken them in a yet another direction, reworking my recipe for a lighter version of Mexican-styled refried beans
RECIPE MEXICAN-STYLE EDAMAME ‘REFRIED BEANS’
by replacing the pinto beans with edamame. The finished product is wonderfully creamy— smoother than the creamiest mashed potatoes— because the beans are purĂŠed instead of mashed. It was a real hit with my family. One caveat: You want to be sure to cook the fresh soybeans until they’re soft. This advice runs counter to the directions on the back of the package, which recommends boiling the beans for a mere 5 minutes. For this recipe, that short a cooking time would leave them too firm. By the way, when I refer to fresh soybeans, I mean the frozen shelled guys. At least sometimes, of course, you’ll be able to find them fresh in the pod at the farmers market, and I’m sure they’re delicious. But then you’d have to shell them once you brought them home, which is pretty tedious. The great thing about frozen vegetables is that not only are they a snap to prepare, but they also taste surprisingly fresh. That’s because they’re harvested at the peak of ripeness, then briefly blanched, and then quickly frozen. It might seem counterintuitive—if it’s frozen, how can it be fresh?— but it turns out to be a great way to lock in their goodness. Sara Moulton is the host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.â€? She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.â€? From The Associated Press
Serve these as a dip for tortilla chips, spooned into soft or hard tacos, or layered between quesadillas.
Prep & Cooking Time: 40 minutes (25 minutes active) Serves: 6 • 16-ounce bag frozen shelled edamame • 3/4 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth or stock • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil • 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion • 1 teaspoon minced garlic • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, preferably chipotle • 1–2 tablespoons lime juice • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 1/4 cup sour cream • Pepitas (toasted pumpkin seeds) or toasted pine nuts, to garnish
DIRECTIONS In a medium saucepan over medium-high, bring 2 quarts of well salted water to a simmer. Add the edamame, return to a simmer and cook until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain the edamame, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid, and transfer them along with the reserved liquid to a blender or food processor. Start to blend the edamame and when they are finely chopped add the chicken broth and continue blending, scraping down the sides as needed, until the beans are smooth. While the edamame are cooking, in a large skillet over medium, heat the oil. Add the
onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Add the garlic, cumin, and chili powder and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the edamame purĂŠe and the lime juice. Season with salt and pepper, then cook, stirring, until the purĂŠe is hot. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Serve as desired, topped with pepitas. Recipe by Sara Moulton
A Leg of Lamb That’ll Have Guests Reaching for Seconds AP PHOTO/KATIE WORKMAN
By Katie Workman A showstopper on the table, this was one of the lushest and best-received roasts I have made in ages, with the layers of flavor and texture bringing everyone back for seconds. The meat is seasoned with garlic, orange zest, and herbs and marinated overnight. Then the roast is covered in a thick layer of mustardy panko breadcrumbs speckled with fresh parsley, which forms a fabulous crust. If you don’t have a big crowd, you can definitely make this with a smaller roast—just adjust the rest of the ingredients down proportionately. You’ll want to reduce the cooking time, too, aiming for an internal temperature of about 130 F for medium rare. Or you can go for the better option: leftovers. We got lamb crostini, a shepherd’s pie, and a lamb soup out of our big gorgeous roast. Not a bit was wasted. Just ask my dog. Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!� and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.� From The Associated Press
RECIPE HERBED LEG OF LAMB
DIRECTIONS
Prep & Cooking Time: 2 hours, 45 minutes, plus overnight chilling Serves: 12–24
In a food processor, combine the garlic, orange zest, thyme, and rosemary. PurĂŠe, then add the olive oil and blend to make a paste. Smear the paste all over the lamb, place it in a container or deep bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
For the Lamb • 1 (6-pound) boneless leg of lamb, rolled and tied • 6 peeled garlic cloves • Zest from 1 orange • 1/4 cup fresh thyme leaves • 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste • 3 tablespoons olive oil For the Crust • 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, coarse or smooth • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 1/2 cups panko breadcrumbs • 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Heat the oven to 450 F. Meanwhile, let the lamb sit at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, mix together 2 tablespoons olive oil, mustard, and parsley, add the breadcrumbs and use a spoon or your hands to thoroughly blend. Press the mixture all over the top and sides of the leg of lamb, and place it in a roasting pan. Some of the panko mixture will fall off the sides; tuck it in underneath the sides of the lamb. Roast the lamb for 15 minutes, then turn the oven down to 400 F and roast for another hour to an hour and 15 minutes, or until an instant
Potato Salad, With a South Indian Twist By Meera Sodha Picnicking has long been a tradition for my family, generations ago on the shores of the Arabian Sea, then on the banks of Nile. When they moved to England, they picnicked seaside at Cleethorpes—still in their saris, stoic in the face of the cold weather, wearing three sweaters each. Although the landscape and weather changed when they moved here, the food remained the same. The key was always simple food that could travel well and was, most importantly, big on flavor. It’s no surprise, then, that potatoes were always on the menu. They take flavor so well, are inexpensive and can be eaten either hot or cold. Over time these South Indian picnic potatoes, which found their way into my kitchen after a trip to the state of Kerala, India, many years ago, have become a family picnic staple. They are a distant, more tropical cousin of the classic potato salad but embellished with coastal Indian ingredients: crispy shallots, a few spices, crunchy golden cashews, and a little coconut milk. Because they are so rich and flavorful, they are best served with simple accompaniments: Some leftover chicken, chapattis, a tub of lime pickles (available online and in some supermarkets), and a simple salad that won’t wilt in the heat. Meera Sodha is an Indian food expert and author of “Made in India: Recipes from an Indian Family Kitchen.� From The Associated Press
AP PHOTO/MEERA SODHA
RECIPE
read thermometer inserted into the middle of the roast reads 130 F to 135 F for medium-rare. Let the lamb sit for 20 minutes before slicing and serving warm. Recipe by Katie Workman
SO FRESH!
SOUTH INDIAN PICNIC POTATOES WITH COCONUT AND CASHEWS Prep & Cooking Time: 25 minutes Serves: 4-6 • 2 pounds baby new potatoes, washed • 2 tablespoons coconut oil • 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds (substitute yellow or brown mustard seeds if you can’t find black) • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds • 10 fresh curry leaves • 5 large shallots, diced • ginger, 1-inch knob, peeled and grated • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 2 green chilies, finely sliced • 1 large handful of cashews • 3/4 teaspoon salt (or to taste) • 1/2 cup coconut milky
DIRECTIONS Place the potatoes in a pan of water and bring to a boil. Simmer for around 10 minutes or until the
Cook the mixture for another 2 minutes and then add the potatoes and salt. Turn up the heat to high and fry the potatoes for a few minutes until they brown slightly and then add the coconut milk and keep stirring until the coconut milk evaporates to a form a sticky glaze. Dish can be served hot or cold. Recipe by Meera Sodha
Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla!
potatoes are tender. Drain and leave to one side to cool. When cool enough to handle, halve the biggest potatoes. In a large frying pan, heat the oil over a medium heat and when hot add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and curry leaves. When the seeds start to wriggle and the curry leaves crisp, add the shallots and cook until they turn golden, then add the garlic, ginger, chilies, and cashews.
Authentic & Delicious
60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues)
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An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu Shochu & sake Exceptional value
Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel
Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) (212) 581-1581
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
(Clockwise from top L) Lemon Lobster Risotto, Chicken Liver Mousse, “Burratina” Primavera, and Roasted Beet Mosaic from Artisan Restaurant, Tavern & Garden.
A Delicious Getaway in Southport, Connecticut By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
F
or a taste of New England, you needn’t go very far. Just a 70-minute train trip out of Grand Central Station takes you from the hectic city jungle to the sleepy village of Southport in Fairfield County, Connecticut, populated by 1,585 souls as of the 2010 census. In this village of stately mansions and white picket fences (and anxious neighbors who peek out from behind curtains if you linger to admire too long), there are some endearingly quirky points—especially for inured city veterans. The Pequot Library, founded in 1889 and built in Romanesque revival style, is the town’s social hub (pequotlibrary.org). On its pretty manicured lawn, it hosts community events from Kentucky Derby parties to a potluck supper and campout to mark the start of the summer. The latter event is complete with a limbo line, chalk art, badminton, and a big pillow fight, with the option of pitching a tent overnight. Try doing that on the Bryant Park lawn. The library’s resident bunny leads the Fourth of July bike parade, escorted by Fairfield Police. This is a working bunny, mind you—to whom young patrons can read, and check out (much like a library book), and take for a stroll round the block in a “Puffmobile.” On Southport’s historic main street, you’ll find a couple of antique shops, an art gallery, a dive bar, a sandwich shop, and the enduring Switzer’s Pharmacy, which looks on the inside as though time stopped decades ago. For visitors, there is the uncrowded Southport Beach, open to the public, which offers views and breezes from Long Island Sound. Farm-to-Table And for food lovers, the real draw is one Frederic Kieffer, the executive chef of Artisan Restaurant, Tavern & Garden, located at the Delamar Southport hotel—and he is worth the trip (artisansouthport.com). French-born Kieffer racked up experience at Taillevent and Le Chiberta before heading to New York, where he worked at Windows on
For food lovers, the real draw to Southport is one Frederic Kieffer, the executive chef of Artisan— and he is worth the trip.
the World and Water’s Edge. In Connecticut, he opened the well-received l’escale and Gaia. I watched him work one evening as he whipped up a 10-course tasting menu for about 15 guests in one of the hotel’s private venues. In each dish, he made exquisite use of different local single-origin honeys from the purveyor he uses, Red Bee Honey. For example, he used pumpkin blossom honey to make BBQ sauce for the meatballs he served over Anson Mills middlins (grits made from broken rice, if you will). The middlins gave the dish a creamy, gorgeous texture—a perfect carrier for the sauce. It was a sort of ultimate comfort food, and being the sixth course, I had to wonder what could come next. For the seventh course, Kieffer offered bread with Roquefort, home churned butter, and goldenrod honey. He’s a man of few words and of great humility, and when he made an appearance from the kitchen, it was to recognize the hard work of the farmers he worked
with—without which his own work would be nothing—and to say that butter and cheese should be experienced together. It was a winning combination: fat upon fat with a dose of honey, like a surfeit of goodness that had to be experienced to be believed. He even managed to find a great use for buckwheat honey—that robust, dark honey with malty flavor—pairing it with caramelized pecans and homemade Guinness ice cream. The regular, seasonal fare at Artisan is characterized by the same reverence for ingredients. I’m not one to chase superfoods when I eat, but without hesitation I would order his Super Food Chopped Salad on the basis of the effect on my tastebuds alone. It sounds fairly straightforward: kale, butterhead, quinoa, avocado, blueberries, and sunflower seeds. This salad, bound by a light toasted coriander dressing, just grows on you: the pleasant toothsomeness of the quinoa set off against the crunch of the sunflower seeds and the burst of the blueber-
The library has a working rabbit named Blossom.
The Pequot Library, founded in 1889, is the village’s social hub.
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
The aesthetic at Artisan recalls a Swedish farmhouse with contemporary touches.
Artisan’s executive chef Frederic Kieffer holds up a spoonful of cheesecake.
Roasted Beet Mosaic.
ries keeps you going back for more. You could top this off with your choice of flame broiled salmon, calamari, chicken, or hanger steak and make it a complete, delicious meal, but I wouldn’t. There’s much more to explore. The classically trained Kieffer makes inhouse charcuterie, including a stellar chicken liver mousse. With some slices of grilled bread (topped with a bit of olive oil and sea salt), the mousse is a harmonious match for the slight bitterness of the frisée and the pop of tangy pickled cherries. For a taste of spring, try the gorgeous Roasted Beet Mosaic with hazelnut, cherry tomato, and goat cheese; or the “Burratina” Primavera, which similarly bursts with color, from the fresh English peas, corn, and roasted tomato ($15). The fresh seafood dishes are well worth ordering, from the New England Seafood Chowder with mushroom and fennel crackers, to the springtime Lemon Lobster Risotto, with farro, artichoke, corn, spinach, and lobster essence. Spare some space for dessert as well if you can manage. From tarts to cheesecakes, they have the same delicious, seasonal sensibility as the savory dishes. The restaurant itself has a Swedish farmhouse design sensibility, with clean lines and yet a cozy feel. Inside, a floral mural by painter Jonas Wickman depicts white tulips and magnolia branches, bringing nature indoors; out-
Artisan Restaurant, Tavern & Garden at the Delamar Southport hotel.
side, in the four-season courtyard, fragrant herbs pave the way to the restaurant entrance. A Weekend Trip Out of town visitors can easily turn a trip to Artisan into a weekend away, with a stay at the comfortable boutique Delamar Southport (delamarsouthport.com; rates start from $259 per night in low season and $299 per night in high season). For those who don’t want to bother with a car, the hotel picks up visitors at the train station and offers rides within a 3-mile radius. That includes not only Southport Beach but also the residents-only Sasco Beach. They’ll pack a towel and water for you and pick you up at an appointed time. The hotel provides complimentary bikes for riding along the back roads and taking in the sights of mansions built in the Greek revival, federal, and colonial styles. Dogs up to 50 pounds are welcomed at the hotel with a personalized dog tag, a dog bed, bowls, and a welcome treat (for humans, it’s a glass of sherry or port). There are a variety of promotional packages available, from Queens for a Day: A Royal Spa Getaway for groups of friends (a package for five starts at $1,495), to Summer in Southport for two (a package for two starts at $294). The latter includes, among other things, transportation to the beaches, a picnic lunch from Artisan, and—oh, the Delamar knows the town’s assets so well—the hotel’s library card for use at the Pequot Library.
On the tavern side of the restaurant, the bar makes for a congenial spot.
The four-season courtyard at Artisan buzzes with conversation.
Grand homes abound in wealthy Southport.
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May 27–June 2, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
FAMILY VACATIONS
The Case for Advanced Planning TRAVNIKOVSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK
By Barbara Danza | Epoch Times Staff When it comes to family vacations, parents tend to vary widely in the amount of planning they are willing to undertake. Some families fly by the seat of their pants and do things like purchase their plane tickets upon arrival at the airline’s ticket counter. (Gah!) Others (cough, me, cough) enjoy the planning of the vacation to such an extent, the actual vacation becomes the delicious icing on top of an already enjoyable adventure. I assume normal people fall somewhere in between these two extremes. While spontaneity is great and we all need to just get up and go sometimes, there are a number of advantages—some you may not have thought of—to planning your next few family vacations well in advance of your departure date. The Early Bird The most obvious reason to plan your family’s next getaway with plenty of time to spare is so that you can enjoy the prime reservation opportunities available. Whether you want the best room at the best resort, the best table at the best restaurant, tickets to the brand new, popular show, and so on, only the early birds are going to catch those worms. If there is a high demand for an experience at your destination, obviously, your family will be more likely to get in if you start your planning process early. The advantages of early bird planning go far beyond beating out the crowds, though. Anticipation Is a Joy in Itself Once you’ve got a trip on the calendar, you and your family can immediately dive into the joys of anticipating the adventure ahead. Bathe in the possibilities, count down the days, read about your destination, and talk to others who’ve gone before you. If you have a bad day, you can take solace in the fact that you’ve got an adventure in store for you at some wonderful location with your wonderful family. You haven’t gone anywhere yet, but simply having scheduled the vacation already provides so much joy. The more last-minute your trip, the more of this experience you’ll miss out on.
When you’ve planned well in advance, you give your family ample time to read about where you’re going.
Part of the fun of traveling lies in the anticipation.
The World Is Your Classroom The educational opportunities for everyone in your family inherent in traveling near and far are undeniable. From the high-level perspective of a mind-broadening awakening to the down-to-earth perspective of standing in a room where George Washington slept, an artificially lit classroom pales in comparison to
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Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
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world exploration. The educational advantages of your family’s vacation can extend beyond the actual trip, however. When you’ve planned well in advance, you give your family ample time to read about where your going or the subject matter you’ll be exploring, to dive into documentaries, to search the Internet, and to learn. The deeper you explore your destination and all it has to teach you, the more meaningful an experience you’ll have when you get there. Vacations Enhance Your Productivity Say, what? Stick with me here. In his book “Getting Things Done” author David Allen describes a phenomenon we likely all recall experiencing just before setting off on vacation. “Most people feel best about their work the week before their vacation, but it’s not because of the vacation itself. What do you do the last week before you leave on a big trip? You clean up, close up, clarify, and renegotiate all your agreements with yourself and others,” said David Allen. Having a vacation or, better yet, a number of vacations firmly planted on your calendar provides a series of signposts for your goals, professional or otherwise. If you’ve penciled in a few trips throughout the year, you may enjoy consistent, forwardmoving progress just before you leave. If you’re anything like me, you’ll find yourself wrapping up your work and moving forward on things you’ve been procrastinating on, so that people who depend on you have what they need while you’re gone and so that nothing hangs over your head while you’re away. Advance vacation planning will allow you to look way ahead and get those signposts set in your schedule like little happy motivators all year long. So, what are you waiting for? Get out your calendar and plan your family’s next adventure … and three more after that!
LA-Area Light Rail Now Reaches From Distant Suburbs to Sea AP PHOTO/NICK UT
By Andrew Dalton Commuter light rail extended across metropolitan Los Angeles to the Pacific on May 20 for the first time since the 1950s. The opening of the 6.6-mile final leg of the Expo Line connected seaside Santa Monica to downtown Los Angeles and Metro lines stretching as far inland as suburban Azusa, some 40 miles from the coast. The milestone fulfills a decadeslong dream of public officials and transit fans, and its symbolic value is undeniable. Its true test, however, will be whether it can shake up the commuting status quo in sprawling and automotive LA. The Los Angeles County Metropolitan Transportation Authority said the ride from downtown LA to Santa Monica will take 48 minutes. That may hardly sound speedy for a 15-mile trip, but the nearly constant congestion of Interstate 10, the usual car route for the trip, can often take just as long or longer. An Expo Line train burst through a banner before the route opened to crowds of riders at noon. “From the skyline of downtown to the shoreline of the Pacific, this Expo line connects this city for the first time in 63 years,” said Los Angles Mayor Eric Garcetti. Frequent Metro rail passenger Anwar Marcus said his last job was in Santa Monica, and to get there from the east side of Los Angeles he would take the Expo Line to its previous terminus in Culver City then ride his bike 4 miles to work. Even traveling that way, he said, “During rush hour I would get home the same time on the train as if I drove.” Marcus said the newly extended line would be “super convenient” for people in his circumstances, and that it’s likely to make some inroads in getting drivers out of their cars, but it’s also likely that it won’t be enough. “It’s a driver’s city,” Marcus said as he sat riding a Metro Gold Line train into downtown’s Union Station on May 17 . “I feel like it will always be that until they get the public transit system to where it’s more extensive, which is going to take some years.” In some ways, the region is getting there. The Gold Line just opened an 11.5-mile eastward extension to Azusa in March that means the line runs more than 30 miles into the northeastern suburbs. If all the approved projects are completed by 2020 the Los Angeles County light-rail-and-subway system will be longer
A test train of the new Metro Expo Line in Santa Monica, Calif., on May 18. than Washington’s Metro system. But the city will still fall far short of Paris, London, and New York for navigating without a car, and that remains an insurmountable problem for riders. A study of the first leg of the Expo Line by professors at USC and the University of California–Irvine, showed that it brought a significant drop in driving and bump in physical activity, but only for those who live within a half-mile of a station. While that’s plenty of people in heavily populated LA, it’s still a very small segment of the area the trains are intended to serve. One of the study’s authors, USC professor Marlon Boarnet, said the new extension won’t immediately reduce congestion between downtown and Santa Monica—but it wouldn’t be fair to judge the extension in isolation. The new track is part of a rail renaissance in LA, which soon will boast 100 stations, and that ongoing expansion has made a big difference to how people get around the region. “Every line that opens begins to transform the nature of the city,” Boarnet said. “It makes a difference bit by bit.” The new tracks to the sea are the first of their kind since the Pacific Electric Red Cars stopped going there in 1953, and if nothing else will immediately provide a novel and nostalgic experience for those who seek it. From The Associated Press