Estela Magazine: Issue XXVII - #FW17

e c n e i l r esi

FW17

XXVII

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MASTHEAD

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF + CREATIVE DIRECTOR SENIOR EDITOR + DESIGNER JUNIOR EDITOR SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER JUNIOR PHOTOGRAPHER SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR JUNIOR FEATURES EDITOR EDITOR

BLASINA SALAM NICHOLE JONES FAIYAZ KOLIA RAPHAEL BAKER nick WARE M.A. SALAM MOONI S. FARAH AKBAR

COVER IMAGEs PHOTOGRAPHY NICk ware COVER 1 fashion veronica ramirez COVER 2 fashion stronger wiser everyday Contributing editor Byron cordero

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Randolph Garrett andrea sartore sylvia hoke reindhardt kenneth christina lazar-schuler Philip Reichwein aleksandr pershin sean white sylwia wozniak

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EDITOR’S NOTE In lieu of this issue’s editor’s note, our editor Farah encompassed all of our thoughts in a captivating column on Page 9. #PRAYFORTHEWORLD

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CON TENTS

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08 10 28

season of resilience

30

62 70 78

airbender

rouge sur noir

86

cropped

38

maniac

94

give paris one more chance

46

princess dynamite

102 zoe

54

the subject & the artist

110

scene: nyfw ss18 vintage reprise

stronger wiser everyday veronica ramirez

dĂŠcadas

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SEASON OF

RESILIENCE words fashioninja

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Its up to American women to help pull the country through it,” said Eleanor Roosevelt said in 1933 regarding women entering the workforce after the Great Depression. She follows by saying, ‘Women know life must go on and that the needs of life must be met.’

SS18 reminds us of Lady Roosevelt’s words and why now is so important to honor the lightness of life yet remain serious in wake of our current political and social climate. This season, many of the collections were full of bias cut dresses, pastels, polka dots, which first appeared in the 1930s. There is a reminder that there is something to smile about and that lifecrazy as it may- must go on. Each day is a new adventure and we have to put that in front of a seemingly grim reality. Collections like Katty Xiomara and 831 exuded this trend.

While, Naersi reminds us of the seriousness that is imperative to survive. The brand’s tag line: ‘dressing the intellectual woman’ encapsulates the seriousness and power required through their elegant suits. The power suite has made a definitive comeback. Reminding us of the 1970s when women first starting working in corporate or the 1990s when woman wanted to celebrate their power as working women. It is intriguing that 20 years later-almost to date-the runways are again embracing the desire to showcase our resilience as women in a world that reminds us of our struggles.

Coretta Scott-King said, ‘Every generation has to fight for their freedom,’ it is clear that the time is now to do just that. SS18 thus reminds us of our strength, courage and will to not back down and still find the beauty of everything.

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SS 18 KUR COLLECTION

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SCENE: NYFW SS18

RUNA RAY Sustainability has proven to be fashionable once again for Spring. Runa Ray’s “Imagine” collection was influenced ‘by the incredible natural elements used to dye and weave the fibers.’

The fabrics were treated with ancient techniques to create this thoughtful collection. “I have used hand-woven fabrics such as bamboo silks, bamboo cottons, and silks. Natural dyes such as Indian madder, indigo, pomegranate peels, and areca nut create the different tones of the materials. These natural fabrics are dipped in aloe vera to create a medicinal benefit found in the womenswear lining and fashionable menswear jackets and bottoms” said the designer.

The theme of the collection was botanical with its handwoven, organically dyed and printed fabrics. Ray added variety to this season’s collection, with silhouettes extending from dresses and jumpsuits, to separates and menswear. The show ended with Ray’s Bleeding Dress with the words across it reading, ‘Imagination is the Only Weapon Against Reality.’

The Imagine collection answers to the fast fashion issue that has been plaguing the high fashion community. Ray literally goes back to basics and takes the time to design a collection environmentally friendly and lovely. She let’s us know that true fashion is about practicality, thoughtfulness and elegance while using ancient techniques that have been around long before the fashion industry was born. It is this sort of work that fast fashion can never compete with - the craftsmanship, the colors, the quality and most importantly the imaginative nature that distinguishes the high fashion world.

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SCENE: NYFW SS18

831MINHLE Posh, relaxed, feminine are the best ways to describe Minhle’s collection.

The spring/summer lineup was full of ruffled dresses, large artistic floral embroidery along with lace and sheers. There is an apparent shabby chic influence in this collection. The subtle colors, sheer, lightweight fabrics reflect the sweetness that comes with warm weather and the farewell to the winter cold.

831 comes from the Vietnamese language symbolizing ‘love;’ inspired by her heritage. As a child, she had an innate talent for design - creating wardrobe for her dolls as a little girl.

Her grandmother noticed her talent and bought her a sewing machine. From that time, Minhle honed in her craft creating thoughtfully for women of the modern world.

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SCENE: NYFW SS18

HAKAN AKKAYA There were moments during the Hakan Akkaya SS18 collection where the show came across more as a theatrical performance than a fashion show. Both male and female models had strides of confidence and carried an air of certainty- not the predominantly aloof facial expression seen during fashion week- their confidence shone bright as they passed each other, the black and white looks, creating tension and contrast down the runway.

This season, Akkaya created a collection of dramatic proportions and hard-edges. Inspired by the notion of existentialism, Akkaya delivered his message via a mixture of edgy looks comprised of leather, zippers, nylon but more notably, straps. The use of one singular strap that drapes right down the middle is the statement detail this season.

Akkaya expressed freedom of the body, soul, and mind while adhering to the basic tropes behind quality menswear (tailoring) and the neverending boundary that is womenswear - a woman empowered that has the ability to be striking and sexy (through sheer fabrics) while still keeping her confidence and self worth (try on some bad ass knee-high boots). Each look was different, unique, and could silently be heard chanting, “freedom.”

In the view of the existentialist, the individual’s starting point is characterized not only by the thinking subject, but the acting, feeling, living human individual. The predominant idea of existentialist thought is commonly acknowledged to be FREEDOM, a philosophical theory or approach that emphasizes the existence of the individual person as a free and responsible agent determining their own development through acts of the will. In Hakan’s opinion, beauty is not about how you look, but what people see in the things you value and love.

The future is all inclusive, choose the best style that conveys you.

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SCENE: NYFW SS18

KUR

COLLECTION

By mixing traditional craft of Beeralu (bobbin lace) which dates back 300 years, into the modern era, KÛR melds the lines between upscale dressing and urban street style.

Taking note of the empowered 21st century women, KÛR’s SS18 collection exudes a traditionally feminine, romantic tone, featuring ruffles, statement collars, and decadent sleeves.

But who is the KÛR woman? Kasuni knows. She states, “The KÛR woman is someone who likes to excel at anything and everything. She is very confident, with a strong personality. She’s the woman who’s running her own company in New York City during the day and enjoying a fun date night! That is why have catered white shirt for all of life’s special moments.”

These white shirts are mixed and matched with a variety of bottoms, from overflowing ruffled skirts to tuxedo pants in soft linen and plaid patterns, displaying the versatility of the white shirt and how it can be dressed both up and down.

If you’re the girl-on-the-go, or simply want to achieve effortlessly chic (at all times of day) then KÛR’s going to be this season’s go-to.

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SCENE: NYFW SS18

MONT BOUDOIR x THE CLERMONT TWINS

Enter the dark, sensual world of Mont Boudoir, a new label by the internet’s favorite sister duo Shannon and Shannade Clermont. For the past few years, we’ve come to know them as a free-spirited and audacious pair with identical attitude and style. They’ve made a name for themselves across multiple platforms including print, TV, and especially social media (where their influence reigns).

For their debut at 393NYC, the Twins set up a minimalist, dimly lit stage accompanied by pop remixes boasting opulent lifestyles blaring from the DJ’s speakers. The models sauntered onto the floor, each clad in a flesh-baring and figure-hugging jet black number, varied in silks, mesh, furs, and leather all oozing sex and high glamour with a touch of southern sass.

The standout look of all was a pair of pony hair-lined chaps with a strappy two piece bikini set, topped with a cowgirl hat.

Each look is easily interchangeable and offers options for layering, making the collection all the more playful.

We were pleasantly surprised with the outcome of their debut collection. The announcement of came via Instagram days before Fashion Week began and out of pure intrigue, we made our minds to see what they’ve been working on. We were expecting to be met with looks that matched their socialite lifestyle (think trending cocktail dresses or branded jeans, as other social media mavens have done) On the contrary, they produced a collection that hinted a mysterious side to the sisters that left us wanting more.

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PRESENTS

LAURENce & chico Alice and Wonderland - in all its metaphorical layers of reality entrenched in fantasy - was no match for the Laurence + Chico SS18 collection.

Dubbing it “Make-up Factory”, 20 models stood before the crowd of onlookers in over-the-top makeup (almost drag queen-esque) exaggerated wigs, and shoes to kill.

Interlacing pearl embellishments - a shimmery trend we’re noticing across the board - punctuated the collection on an assortment of outerwear, separates, and dresses.

Playing with luxe fabrics, such as tweed, designers Laurence Li and Chio Wang, incorporated a playful spin by deconstructing the threads, resulting in a unique texture they could call their own. Sorry, Chanel. There were silhouettes reminiscent of a traditional two-piece suit that came in animal print pattern and a mariachi-like ruffled lining on the side. Work hard, play hard? Yes, please.

Executing an impeccable delicate balance between the duo’s quality craftsmanship and an relentless imagination, Laurence + Chico delivered a collection for the woman who isn’t afraid to make an entrance. Because, like why shouldn’t you be? Work it, “girl.”

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SCENE: NYFW SS18 THE party kids If there’s one thing we noticed about a number of the Spring collections, it’s that it’s sure to be a rad season.

These designers combined work, play and red carpet looks through out their collections with funky graphics, bright prints against electrifying color palettes, topped with accents of fur and pom poms.

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CONCEPT KOREA LIE

by lee chung chung

GREEDILOUS

by Younhee Park

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BACKSTAGE BEAUTY These designers gave us more than statement making clothing for Spring. We’ve rounded up a few of our favorite - and wildest makeup looks straight from the runways.

LIE

greedilous 26 | ESTELA

laurence & chico

mont boudoir

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VINTAGE It was in with the old when it came to my daily Fashion Week makeup look. I wanted to keep my look simple and because of my hectic schedule for the week, I didn’t want to spend too much time on my routine.

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I took inspiration from the fifties (and of course Miss Monroe) for a look that was classic, fresh and easily transitional from a full day of covering shows to a night of dinner and afterparties. While most of my face remained “natural”, I let my lips make the statement, thanks to these indie and organically created goodies.

REPRISE BEAUTY EDITOR BLASINA SALAM MUSE patrice channer (DIRECtions usa)

I recreated my NYFW statement lips on Patrice using: Base Cloverdale Organics Lavender + Mint Lip Balm

Day

42 Dubonnet Irresistible Kissable Lipstick in Sweet Vermouth 42 Dubonnet Illuminating Lip Gloss in Xanthia

Night

42 Dubonnet Irresistable Kissable Lipstick in Dubonnet

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ROUGE NOIR SUR

Photographer SEAN WHITE rETOUCHER Anastazia szulc ART DIRECTOR, HAIR & MAKEUP ARTIST SIMONE ZBINDEN MODEL venanance pammater 30 | ESTELA

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MANIAC Photographer Philip Reichwein rETOUCHER & Assistant Eva Gürtler MAKEUP ARTIST Julia Sikorski MODEL Steffi Gee

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P R I N C E S S 46 | ESTELA

D Y N A

M I T E

Photographer Reinhardt Kenneth FASHION STYLIST Ciera Allen hair & mAKEUP ARTIST Andy Calero MODEL Krislian Rodriguez (Wilhemina Models)

Choker Nasty Gal Gold collar Topshop Swim top Urban Outfitters Skirt Diana Couture Shoes Puma

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Choker & Sweatshirt Nasty Gal Dress Topshop Belt & Boots Model’s Own

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Fur Stylist’s Own Anorak Zara Bra, Tights, Shorts Urban Outfitters Shoes Puma

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Bodysuit Calvin Klein Outer Bodysuit & Glasses Topshop Anorak Zara Cage Skirts Diana Couture Boots Model’s Own

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Dress Topshop Belt Vintage Shoes & Socks Zara

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Necklace Nasty Gal T-shirt Topshop Fur Stylist’s Own Socks & Shoes Zara

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THE

SUBJECT & THE ARTIST 54 | ESTELA

Photographer SYLVIA HOKE Hair & MAKEUP ARTIST le artiste MODEL anai EKALINO FASHION BY GABRIELLE CARLSON JEWELRY BY CARLA MARINA sardeira

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AIRBENDER

Photographer SYLWia WOZNIAK | FASHION STYLIST DARIUSZ kowalski | MAKEUP ARTIST kite chuang HAirstylist toshinari kokubun | MODEL noa abbenhuis (first model management) Shirt Eudon Choi Earrings RDLux

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Bra & Dress George Gurung Shirt Hannah Barabon

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Jumper & Trousers Hannah Brabon Shoes Toga Choker & Belt Stylist’s Own Sunglasses Finalay & Co.

Shirt Eudon Choi Earrings RDLux Trousers Seojung Lee Shoes Toga PullaESTELA | 65

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Jumper Xiao Li Dress Cecilie Bahnsen Shirt Stevenh Tai Shoes Toga Choker Stylist’s Own

Jumper & Trousers Stine Goya Cardigan Xiao Li Sunglasses Finalay & Co.

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Shirt Longshaw Ward Top Faustine Steinmetz Trousers Stine Goya Shoes Rue St

Dress Joe Richards

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S T R O N G E R W

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I S E R E V E R Y D A Y

FASHION BY NELISSA CARILLO / STRONGER WISER EVERYDAY ART DIRECTOR & Photographer NICK WARE FASHION EDITOR BLASINA SALAM MODEL DEVAN RANDOLPH (FACTOR CHOSEN CHICAGO) LOCATION DOWNTOWN CHICAGO, IL ESTELA | 71

Tell us about your latest collection.

Stronger Wiser Everyday is an on-going evolution, every collection is an improved version of the last. My inspiration always comes from Eastern traditional costume, underground music scenes and athletic studies in function.

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Have any of the current trends influenced this collection?

I usually don’t keep up with the fashion weeks or what’s currently “in”. Every design comes from the heart with a purpose for everyday wear-ability.

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What was your creative process like? Were there any obstacles you were faced with while creating?

My process starts with the question, “how can this be high-fashion and how can I incorporate this into my daily routine?� Then I think about the shapes that males and females can both wear. I then begin making the patterns and create samples to test fit and I go from there. Challenges I face always come down to fit because on a male figure is so straight up and down - mostly broad. Then a female form is shapely, with curves. The SWE piece needs to have a balance to compliment both.

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Which piece/look is your personal favorite?

My personal favorite piece is the Wrap Tank. I have worn that piece so many times and to so many different events, I feel like it’s the perfect piece to dress casually or elevate. Not only is it a statement, it’s so damn comfortable!!!

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What are your top favorite pieces to transition from one season to another?

My favorite pieces to transition are the denim pieces. Patchwork is my bread and butter. They are also statements on their own, and the pieces that have the logo printed right on them. Each time they are improved on and that’s what makes them the most interesting.

What’s next for you?

I am currently finishing up a capsule collection for the F/W season, it’ll be COLLECTION #3. Working on some more outerwear for winter with some amazing layering pieces and of course, patchwork. But what I am most excited about are the different fabrics I am using this season to create the patchwork!

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V E R O N I C A

FASHION BY VERONICA RAMIREZ ART DIRECTOR & Photographer NICK WARE FASHION EDITOR BLASINA SALAM HAIRSTYLIST LESLIE REID MODEL OLIVIA TRUTH (SALT MODEL) LOCATION atlanta, ga

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R A M I R E Z

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Tell us about your latest collection.

Inspired by the fast paced, architecture, lighting, and women of New York, the collection consists of jackets cut with generous volumes, tops with full sleeves and geometric dresses put together almost like puzzles.

Have any of the current trends influenced this collection?

A trend that definitely influenced this collection is the use of active details. I want to bring new ways to build on the sports luxe trend in subtle ways.

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What was your creative process like for this collection? Were there any obstacles you were faced with while creating?

My creative process starts with my inspiration then finding textiles that will bring the vision to life, and finally nonstop sketching. Obstacles along the way definitely include not being able to find the textiles I need and also staying within a budget, since I am an emerging designer. Which piece/look is your personal favorite?

My favorite piece in my FW17 collection is definitely my yellow oversized bomber jacket. I was walking by a construction site in NYC and I was instantly inspired. I pictured my woman walking by in this oversized piece with rounded shoulders and just feeling confident, not having to dress in a feminine way.

Describe the woman that wears Veronica Ramirez.

My customer can pair an oversized Cocoon coat with a trouser or below the knee skirt and feel empowered. She is confident and fashion forward.

I enjoy creating pieces that can be complicated to make, yet look easy to wear.

What’s next for you?

I am working on a Spring/Summer collection for Belk which will be available in selected stores and online.

To be given this opportunity as a new designer is beyond exciting! Keep a look out for the collection which will go on sell in March 2018. I am very grateful for the support and watching my brand grow is a dream come true.

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CROPPED Photographer Randolph Garrett PhotographY Assistants Sam Gross & Mike Muse Fashion stylist Tiffany Barringer ASSISTANT STYLIST Joel Saunders MODEL Jerome

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Hat EAT All Homage Shirt ASOS Blazer & Pants Frank And Oak Shoes Opening Ceremony

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Sunglasses Gucci Blazer, Shirt & Pants ASOS Shoes Rick Owens x Adidas Belt Frank And Oak

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Hat Virginia Tech Jacket & Shirt Zara Skirt Talbots Shoes “being” Vans by: aRR

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Blazer & Pants ASOS Shoes Marc Edelson

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Hat Balenciaga Shoes Gucci

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GIVE

PARIS ONE MORE CHANCE Photographer ALEKSANDR PERSHIN HAIR & MAKEUP ARTIST SEVIL TAIBOVA MODEL WIKTORIA (raise your life model agency)

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Jacket, Pants, T-Shirt, & Bag Lyubov Paris Hat Lia Gureeva

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Coat & Bag Lyubov Paris Glasses Solano

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Jacket & Dress Lyubov Paris Hat Lia Gureeva

Jacket & Dress Lyubov Paris Hat Lia Gureeva Shoes Topshop

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Jacket, Skirt, T-Shirt, & Bag Lyubov Paris Hat Lia Gureeva Accessories Stylist’s Own

Jacket & Bag Lyubov Paris Hat Lia Gureeva

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Z

O Photographer Christina Lazar-Schuler Fashion stylist Sarah D’Arcey HAIR & MAKEUP ARTIST Michael Fels MODEL Zoe Olson (Jager International Models)

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E

Sweater & Skirt Ralph Lauren Corset French Connection Tights Betsy Johnson Shoes Chanel

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Dress Rodarte Sweater Jacob Tights Betsy Johnson Shoes Roger Vivier

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Sweater Joe Fresh Top Banana Republic Skirt Miu Miu Tights Betsy Johnson Shoes Prada

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Dress Vintage Sweater Jacob Shoes Call It Spring Socks Topshop

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Sweater Zara Jacket H&M Skirt Maggie Sottero Belt Steve Madden Shoes Call It Spring

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´ DECADAS Photographer andrea sartoret HAIR & MAKEUP ARTIST JESSILOVESGARRY MODEL Zoe Olson (named models london) FASHION DESIGNER VASSIL PETRIISKI ESTELA | 111

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beautĂŠ 12 /29 Submissions open July 14th.

Email your concepts, mood boards, & editorials to: submissions@estelamag.com ESTELA | 119

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