Digital Magazine Jan - Mar., 2014
Kingdom of Cambodia Khmer Cuisine Rice Bowl of Cambodia Getting Stares on the Streets of Cambodia
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PUBLISHER’S NOTE Dear Readers, It’s hard to imagine anything that’s harder, more fun, and ultimately more satisfying, than completing the first four year of a new venture still standing. This issue of Cambodia Insight is our 17th quarterly publication. It’s been, as the Navy promises, not a job but an adventure. Heartfelt thanks to our many readers. You’ve proven again and again that you’ll visit an online publication. We appreciate your attention, as well as your comments and suggestions. Every one of them was read, and many adopted. We’re grateful. Heartfelt thanks, too, to our advertisers. We don’t charge our many readers, and your generous support has made this possible. We hope that your business has benefited from the attention your ads garnered both locally and internationally. We’re grateful.
As we look ahead to the new year, we’re encouraged that we’ve weathered the initial growing pains and can focus now even more on producing the leading publication about Cambodian life, business, culture, and especially responsible tourism. What will future issues bring? We’ll continue to spotlight the growing numbers of visitors and investors from Russia, the important role of investment from China and Korea, relations with our neighbors Vietnam, Thailand, and Laos. And most of all we’ll continue to bring to our readers the wonders of the Land of Wonders, our adopted home. As always, your readership, your advertising support, and you comments will help us make this the leading publication of its kind on the internet. We’re truly grateful. Sincerely,
Heartfelt thanks, as well, to our contributors. You’ve supplied us with interesting – indeed fascinating – insights into this Land of Wonder and its warm, welcoming people. The quality of your work shone brightly. We’re grateful. Heartfelt thanks, finally, to our staff. You’ve worked tirelessly and without complaint under the pressures of deadlines. You’ve brought creativity to Cambodia Insight, along with a full measure of talent, hard work and good spirits. We’re grateful. 4
Charles R. Evans, Publisher H/P: 017.906.721 Tel: +855 (0) 63.963.583 Fax: 63.963.583 Charles@CorporateMarketingIntl.com
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CONTENTS A Quarterly Magazine on Business, Economy, Tourism, Culture and Society in English for Cambodia. Founded in Siem Reap City in January, 2010 by Evans Marketing
08 Cambodia Festivities 12 Water Festival 14 Business Manners & Etiquette in Cambodia 16 Religion
Charles R. Evans Dave Courtright Don Finck Kanyapat Evans Savuth Sao Chinda Sovan Atchariya Priabnan Sokum Tim Bunleab Hong Sopheap Khom Eric Larbouillat Peter Richards
20 Culture, Custom & Traditions 26 Cambodia Food 26 Cambodian Traditional Practices &
Publisher and Managing Director Editor - in - Chief Senior Creative Director Creative Director Manager, Graphic Design & Print Production Sales Manager Graphic design Graphic design Webmaster & Programmer Sales Executive Sales Executive Thailand Bureau Chief
Personality
Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd., Tapul Village, Svay Dongkum Commune, Siem Reap - Angkor, 17000, Kingdom of Cambodia
28 Kingdom of Cambodia 30 Cambodia - The Society and its Environment 32 Khmer Wedding 34 A Question of Arrangement 36 Map of Cambodia 37 People of Cambodia 38 Getting Stares on the Streets of Cambodia: Busses for the Masses
42 Rice Bowl of Cambodia 44 Khmer Cuisine
Tel: +855 (0) 63.969.200/201 Fax: +855 (0) 63.969.201. Advertising & Subscriptions E-Mail: Advertising@CambodiaInsight.com E-Mail: Subscription@CambodiaInsight.com @Copyright Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. The name Cambodia Insight.com, in either English or Khmer languages, its associated logos or devices and the contents of this publication and website may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without written permission of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Cambodia Insight.com is a wholly owned publication and website of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Licensed by the Ministry of Information. Although every care has been taken in the production of this magazine and website, no responsibility for errors or liability is assumed through the use of the information contained herein. Cambodia Insight.com is an independent publication dedicated to providing our readers with informative content presented in a positive light helping to boost business investment, tourism, cultural awareness and the image of the country.
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Cambodia Festivities
Khmer New Year The Khmer New Year, or ‘Bon Chol Chhnam Thmei’ in the Khmer language, is commonly celebrated on 13th April each year although sometimes the holiday may fall on the 14th April in keeping with the Cambodian lunar calendar. This marks the end of the harvest season when farmers enjoy the fruits of their labor and relax before the start of the rainy season.
The New Year holidays last for three days This three-day New Year holiday, also known as Khmer New Year, is a major celebration in Cambodia.
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he Kingdom of Cambodia has a wealth of traditional and cultural festivals dated according to the Cambodian lunar calendar. All of these festivals are influenced by the concepts of Buddhism, Hinduism, and royal cultures. The festivals, which serve as a source of great joy, merriment and Cambodia’s national
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colors, play a major role in influencing tourists’ opinions, behaviors, and options. Most of these are a time of great rejoicing for the predominantly urban and the rural populace. Nowadays the whole nation unites in understanding its cultural values and traditions. On these pages, are some of the important celebrations organized during the year.
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mushrooms. Families bring food to offer Buddhist monks and gather for blessing and prayer. Another activity is the building of a small sand “mountain.” Each bit of sand that is added is believed to increase the chance for health and happiness in the coming year. The second day is known as Wanabot or Vana Bat. It is a day of gift giving to parents and other elders or persons worthy of respect. Many people also give gifts of charity on this day and perform acts of community service. More sand is added to the mountain. The final day is called Loeung Sack.
On this day the monks bless the sand mountains. This is also the day for people to wash their Buddha statues, which is thought to be a kind deed that will bring good luck and long life. The bathing also symbolizes hope for sufficient rainfall for the rice harvest. Many people also spray water on each other in a spirit of fun. Throughout the New Year celebration, children and adults gather to dance and play traditional games. Many streets in Cambodia are crowded with celebrants. The holiday often ends with a fireworks display.
The first day is called Moha Sangkran, which means “New Angel.” The tradition on this day is for families to welcome the angel who looks after the world in the coming year. To do so, people clean their houses and themselves and prepare a feast of such traditional foods as peanut curries, noodles, and tree
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Water festival
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ambodian Water Festival (khmer: Bon Om Touk) has been a most important holiday for Cambodians public holiday calendar.
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es, but for the real thing you’ll have to go to Phnom Penh to enjoy.
There has been a lot of interest by for not only beauty of Phnom Penh city, but also for boat races on the Tonle Sap and Mekong River and the carnival atmosphere ashore attract millons of people from all over the country.
Bonn Om Teuk lasts three days so that boats from near and far provinces can join the contest. During the festival, Cambodians from across the country gather in Phnom Penh, the capital, to attend and celebrate this festival.
A smaller Water Festival is also held in Siem Reap City, Angkor Wat and some provinc-
Bonn Om Teuk lasts three days so that boats from near and far provinces can join the contest.
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During the festival, Cambodians from across the country gather in Phnom Penh, the capital, to attend and celebrate this festival.
in the annual boat race, the highlight of Festival.
The Water Festival has a long history dating from the Angkor era in the 12th century, under the reign of King Preah Bat Jayvarman VII, when the Khmer Empire occupied and ruled most of the Indochinese Peninsula.
Some people arrive by buses, cars, bikes, cyclos, bicycles and even trucks.
Some people said that the celebration of the Festival is also a thanksgiving to the Mekong River for providing the country with fertile land.
Many stay over in the city during the three - day festival, lending support to their boat team.
People from all walks of life gather on the bank of the MekongRiver for days and nights.
The King battled with enemies to defend the Empire as well as to expand the territory.
Others use this opportunity to explore the sights and
Most people arrive in Phnom Penh for a visit of few days.
sounds of Phnom Penh – for many it is the only occasion to visit the city.
With a very powerful naval force, the King had defeated his enemies at each battle. During water festival there are more than 500 boats, propelled by precision trained oarsmen, take part Jan - Mar, 2014
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“…in the search for consensus, issues may be ‘set aside’ while appearing to the foreigner to be settled.”
Use the right hand, or better yet both hands, when offering or receiving a business card. It is important to treat business cards with respect, as the way you handle the card is indicative of the way you will treat the person.
eeting and GreetingFirst impressions matter – everywhere. As Cambodia is a hierarchical culture, the business world follows suit in terms of protocol and behaviors. What does this mean in practice? First, even from the initial introductions, respect and deference must always be shown to the most senior person present.
Business Meetings
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Business manners & etiquette in Cambodia When meeting a group of Khmers (Cambodians) you will always be introduced to the highest ranking person first; similarly you should have the most senior of your group greet them. You should then introduce people in your group according to their rank, so that your Cambodian counterparts can understand the dynamics of the group. This is very important in a hierarchical society like Cambodia’s,
where standing – and status – within the group are clear-cut and always recognized. Handshakes are normal in business environments, although the traditional Khmer greeting, similar to the Thai wai (hands clasped as in prayer, at chest-level) may also be offered. When shaking hands with Cambodian men, be careful not to be too firm in your grip, as this may be construed as aggressive -- a desirable trait in New York but not in Phnom Penh. Their less-than-hearty handshake, similarly, should not be mistaken for lacking in manliness. If foreign men are dealing with Khmer women, wait to see if they extend a hand before doing so yourself. Return a wai if it is extended to you.
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Eye contact should be kept to a minimum. Prolonged eye contact is considered aggressive and may be taken as a challenge or disrespect. Cambodians address people with the honorific title “Lok” for a man and “Lok Srey” for a woman with the first name alone, or with both the first and surname. Similarly, “Mr.” or “Ms.” first name may be used without showing too much familiarity.
Business Cards Business cards should be exchanged after the initial introductions. If possible, have one side of your card translated into Khmer. Present your card so the Khmer side is readable to the recipient.
Meetings do not stick rigidly to any schedule or agenda. Issues may be tackled separately or altogether. Once an issue has seemingly been resolved it may later be addressed again. This is because, in the search for consensus, issues may be “set aside” while appearing to the foreigner to be settled. What has happened in that case is that some in the group (or a senior person not present) do not agree with the decision but will not say so directly. This is not duplicity. It simply reflects the need for harmony over confrontation. It is sometimes difficult for foreigners, comfortable with “butting heads” until a firm decision has been reached, to find matters they thought settled coming up again and again, but this is Cambodia and that is how things are done here. It is better to accept this with good grace and continue in good faith. Building a relationship based on mutual trust is crucial. Time should be invested in getting to know your counterparts. Small talk should always be employed at the beginning of meetings. Cambodians are very indirect communicators, so the ability to “read between the lines” is a necessary and valuable skill. Khmer business people will always consider the implications of making statements or using
particular words, especially if it involves anything negative, as this draws in the issue of face.
Face isn’t the Most Important Thing – It’s the Only Thing. In fact, if Cambodians disagree with someone they would rather remain silent than make any comment that would show their disagreement with the idea. Khmers will typically express disagreement with an idea by remaining silent. If unsure about statements be sure to double check with a trusted Khmer associate. Cambodians prefer ideas to be brought forward in a gentle way and to wait for others to respond. Pushy, pressuring or boastful styles are definitely – and always – to be avoided. There are few mistakes (other than expressing anger publicly) more offensive to Cambodians than appearing boastful.
importantly for you than for the object of your ire. Being “open” or overt is not part of the culture in Cambodia, as it is considered a sign of weakness as well as of poor manners. Modesty and humility are emphasized in the culture, so compliments and praise are generally responded to by a self-deprecating comment. Compliments are appreciated, especially if addressed to the entire group rather than to individual. Follow these suggestions and you’ll be taking a major step forward in successfully doing business in Cambodia. About the Author: Lillian Boucher has lived in Phnom Penh for more than a decade.
Punctuality is important. In this respect Cambodians are not typical of some other Asian cultures. Arriving late shows a lack of respect for the person with whom you are meeting. Non-verbal behavior is just as important to be aware of. For example, smiling in Cambodia is situational and can have many meanings; it may be friendly, but it may alternately mean a person does not understand what has been said, that they are nervous, or even that they are irritated. Showing emotions is considered an undesirable behavior. Anger, impatience or frustration should be hidden as it would lead to a loss of face, even more Jan - Mar, 2014
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Religion
Delusion
Most Khmer Buddhist believe in the Four Noble Truths Most Khmer are Buddhist and believe in the Four Noble Truths. These are:
BUDDHIST FESTIVALS
• All sentient beings suffer. Birth, death, and other separations are inescapably part of life. • The cause of suffering is desire. Desire is manifested by attachment to life, to security, to others, to being itself, etc. • The way to end suffering is to cease to desire. • To way to cease to desire is to follow the Eightfold Path: (1) right belief (2) right intent (3) right speech, 4) right conduct (5) right endeavor or livelihood (6) right effort (7) right mindfulness (8) right meditation.
Buddhists have many festivals throughout the year. These festivals celebrate events in the lives of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas and famous teachers. During these occasions people can also take refuge and precepts, or leave the home life to become monks and nuns. Buddha Day
Following the path leads to cessation of desire and to nirvana or emancipation from rebirth and the endless cycles of suffering. The picture is of the Buddha meditating, protected by Naga. Worship is at a temple and at altars in individual homes. Worship at temples is usually led by one or more monks, often with the gentle assistance by a lay elder. As worship includes monks and congregation chanting in Pali or Bali they also burn joss sticks, and pray. Worship may be concluded by the monks eating their food. Buddhism believes that all bad Karma was created in the past, based upon beginning less greed, hatred and delusion. And born of body, mouth and mind., I now repent and reform. It is the well known Repentance Verse in Buddhism. In Buddhism, the distinction between what is good and what is 16
The Buddha bad is simple. It hinges on the intention or motivation from which an action originates. The deed which is most often associated with greed/attachment, hatred/ill will, delusion/ stupidity is evil. Greed, hatred and delusion are called the Three Poisons or Three Evil Roots, which are the primary source of all evil deeds. It is the Three Poisons that create all bad Karma, unfortunately resulting in all kinds of suffering in accordance with the Principle of Cause and Effect. The Three Poisons are also obstacles to the attainment of good Karma. Thus we have to abandon them by all means. JAN - Mar, 2014
It means the persistent belief in something false and distorted. We have to observe and think in an objective and rational manner, so as to avoid prejudice and misunderstanding. For instance, if we don’t believe in cause and effect, and then commit offence frequently and heavily, we will suffer from the retribution.
Greed Greed is the cause of many offences. The five greedy desires are: wealth, sex, fame, eating and sleeping. Greedy desire is endless and therefore can never be satisfied. The lesser the greedy desire, the happier and more satisfied we are. The best prescription to deal with greed is in giving away.
For the Buddhist community, the most important event of the year is the celebration of the Birth of the Buddha, his Enlightenment and Nirvana. It falls on the full-moon day in May. On this day, Buddhists take part in the ceremonial bathing of the Buddha. They pour ladles of water scented with flowers over a statue of the baby Siddhartha. This symbolizes purifying one’s thoughts and actions. The temples are elaborately decorated with flowers and banners; the altars are laden with offerings; vegetarian meals are provided for all; and captive animals, such as birds and turtles are set free. This is a very joyous day for everyone.
Lotus flowers use for worshipping Buddha Dharma Day Asalha Puja, known as ‘Dharma Day’, is celebrated during full-moon in July. This holiday commemorates the first sermon of the Buddha to the five monks in the Deer Park at Benares. Sangha Day Sangha Day or Kathina Day is usually held in October. In the Theravada tradition, monks and nuns go on a three - month retreat during the rainy season. After the retreat, the laity offers robes and other necessities to them. This day symbolizes the close relationship between the Sangha and laity.
Ullambana The observance of Ullambana is based on the story of Maudgalyayana, a disciple of the Buddha. When Maudgalyayana’s mother died, he wanted to know where she was reborn. Using his spiritual powers, he traveled into the hells and found her suffering miserably from hunger. He brought her a bowl of food, but when she tried to swallow it, the food turned into hot coals.
Anger
The distressed Maudgalyayana asked the Buddha, “Why is my mother suffering in the hells?”
Hatred to people is another cause of evil deed. We should not lose temper and get angry when we are unhappy. We should be calm and patient.
The Buddha replied, “In her life as a human, she was stingy and greedy. This is her retribution.” He advised, “Make offerings to the Sangha. The merit and virtue from this act will release your mother and others from the hells.”
Buddhist Priest As a result of Maudgalyana’s offering, his mother and thousands of others were released from their unhappy state. After this, making offerings to release departed relatives and others from the hells became popular in Mahayana countries. Usually, it takes place in September. Credit: Atchara Priabnan
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Culture, customs & traditions
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Khmer Country Side
Phnom Penh City
Culture, customs & traditions Most of Cambodia’s population lives in rural areas as farmers. In the countryside, houses are made of palm leaves and bamboo and are usually built on stilts to protect them from floods that occur annually. A rural village is most often made up of a group of houses that center around a central area.
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The husband is the head of the family, he is responsible for providing the family’s shelter and food, while a wife controls her family’s finances. The Khmer wife is also considered the ethical and religious heart of her family. In the countryside, her duties include caring for children, washing clothes, cleaning the house, and growing rice. Clothing is simple and material possessions are hard to come
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by. Women tend to wear cotton shirts with ankle length skirts. Men and women both wear a krama, a multipurpose cotton garment. Family life in the city is quite similar. The wife may also work outside the home. In the city clothing is simple, Cambodians usually wear Western style clean nice looking clothes. Cambodian families typically have about five children. Jan - Mar, 2014
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Cambodian foods Rice, which is eaten at virtually every meal, is the most important Cambodian food. Cambodia is also well known for its Prahok, a strong, fermented fish paste used in a variety of traditional dishes. Most Cambodian food is related to the cuisines of neighboring Thailand (althought not as spicy). Laos and Vietnam also contribitute to many Khmer dishes. Fish is almost as important
and is eaten fresh, dried or salted. Vegetables are also a vital part of the diet. Cambodians grow onions, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes and potatoes in their gardens. Many homes are also surrounded by coconut and banana trees and other plants. A favorite treat is the durian fruit, horrid-smelling, but delicious. Other fruits include mangoes, papayas, jackfruit and palm fruit.
Cambodian traditional practices & personality In Cambodia, people are educated to thank you every time someone has done a good thing for them. Cambodians are expected to be honest and polite at all times. Public challenges or disagreements are not common behaviors. Cambodians usually won’t do anything that leads them to feel unsafe. Anger or indignation will upset others, which may be dangerous. Khmer people are quite easy going, 90% of Cambodians are ethnic Khmers and speak Khmer. The remaining 10 percent include Chinese-Khmers, Khmer Muslims, ethnic hill-tribe people, known as the Khmer Loeu, and Vietnamese. About 10 percent of the population lives in 26
Phnom Penh, the capital, making Cambodia largely a country of rural dwellers, farmers and mostly Khmer artisans. The ethnic groups that constitute Cambodian society possess a number of economic and demographic commonalties. For example. Chinese merchants lived mainly in urban centers and play middlemen in many economic cycles, but they also preserve differences in their social and cultural institutions. They were concentrated mostly in the central provinces and in southeastern Cambodia. The major differences among these groups lie in social organization, language, and religion. JAN - Mar, 2014
The majority of the inhabitants of Cambodia are settled in fairly permanent villages near the major bodies of water in the Tonle Sap Basin - Mekong - Lowlands region. The Khmer Loeu live in widely scattered villages that are abandoned when the cultivated land in the vicinity is exhausted. The permanently settled Khmer and Cham villages usually located on or near the banks of a river or other bodies of water. Cham villages usually are made up almost entirely of Cham, but Khmer villages, especially in central and in southeastern of Cambodia, typically include sizable Chinese communities.
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Kingdom of Cambodia
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ingdom of Cambodia, formerly known as Kampuchea, is a country in Southeast Asia with a population of over 13 million people, with Phnom Penh being the capital city. Cambodia is the successor state of the once powerful Hindu and Buddhist Khmer Empire, which ruled most of the Indochinese Peninsula between the eleventh and fourteenth centuries. A citizen of Cambodia is usually identified as “Cambodian” or “Khmer,” the latter of which strictly refers to ethnic Khmers. Most Cambodians are Theravada Buddhists of Khmer extraction, but the country also has a substantial number of predominantly Muslim Cham, as well as ethnic Chinese, Vietnamese and small animist hill tribes. The country borders Thailand to its west and northwest, Laos to its northeast, and Vietnam to its east and southeast. In the south it faces the Gulf of Thailand. The geography of Cambodia is dominated by the Mekong river (colloquial Khmer: Tonle Thom or “the great river”) and the Tonle Sap (“the fresh water lake”), an important source of fish. Much of Cambodia sits near sea level, and consequently the Tonle Sap River reverses its water flow in the wet season, carrying water from the Mekong back into the Tonle Sap Lake and surrounding flood plain. Cambodia’s main industries are garments and tourism. In 2006, foreign visitors had surpassed the 1.7 million mark. In 2005, oil and natural gas deposits were found beneath Cambodia’s territorial water, and once commercial extraction begins in 2009 or early 2010, the oil revenues could profoundly affect Cambodia’s economy.
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Cambodia - The Society and Its Environment
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INCE 1975 CAMBODIA has suffered through one of the most catastrophic periods in its long history. The takeover of the country by the communist Khmer Rouge in 1975, its violent aftermath, and the constant warfare between communist and noncommunist factions has resulted in widespread and major changes in the Cambodian social fabric. The country was plunged into a dark age from which it was slowly emerging in the late 1980s. Under the Khmer Rouge, the entire social structure of the country suffered radical and massive changes. An estimated 1 million to 2 million Cambodians died during the first three - and - one-half years of communist rule. Traditional family life was violently disrupted and virtually abolished between 1975 and 1979. Nuclear families - the most important units of Cambodian society - were broken up and were replaced with communal groupings.
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About 97 percent of the population was forced into communal economic programs. Urban dwellers were driven into the countryside in mass marches that caused great suffering and many deaths. Rural society was reorganized into interfamilial units known as krom (groups). Urban Cambodians, ethnic minorities, and educated people suffered especially harsh treatment. The ethnic Chinese, because they were engaged extensively in small businesses and were mainly urban dwellers, were targets for communist persecution, as were the Cham, a prominent ethnic minority group. Educated people were special targets for extermination, and most of the teachers and physicians fled the country or were massacred. Those who showed evidence of Western influence, such as using the English language, were suspect. Although freedom of religion was guaranteed in theory under the Khmer Rouge, in fact Buddhism and other religions were repressed ruthlessly.
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Temples were destroyed or put to secular uses, and monks were defrocked and forced do manual labor. The Vietnamese invasion in December 1978 ameliorated the situation somewhat. As a result of the invasion, the Khmer Rouge government of Democratic Kampuchea was overthrown, and the People’s Republic of Kampuchea (PRK) under Heng Samrin was installed in 1979. The PRK allowed considerably more freedom than had its predecessor. In the late 1980s, Marxist-Leninist socialism as it existed in Vietnam was the goal of the PRK government in Phnom Penh. The regime was not pushing hard to convert the country, but was planning a gradual conversion instead. Religions were allowed to function. The government allowed Buddhist monks to return to their temples, although narrow limits were placed on those who could become monks and on aspects of ritual. The education system, which had suffered almost total destruction under the Khmer Rouge, was reconstituted, and the number of students attending formal classes rose dramatically in the early 1980s.
The public health service was functioning again in the mid - 1980s, and modern medical services were available although trained medical personnel and some medicines continued to be in short supply. The shortage of medical personnel was partially filled by foreign doctors and technicians. The PRK did not neglect to court ethnic minorities. Members of one of the Khmer Loeu (or highland Khmer) tribal minorities were made leaders in several northeastern provinces, and members of the Cham minority served in the central government. Social Structure and Organization
-The Khmer
-The Cham
-The Khmer Loeu
-The Chinese
-The Vietnamese
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Khmer Wedding A traditional Khmer wedding is one of the most joyous occasions for a Khmer family and typically lasts for three days. It is a grand affair, full of color and festivity, as well as steeped in tradition. Family, friends, and the community come together to share in the celebration. Musicians play throughout the day on traditional instruments, and the couple is dressed like royalty. The bride may change her outfit several times in one day. 32
Most Khmer men marry between nineteen and twenty-five years of age. Women marry at a younger age. A single young Khmer man commonly asks his parents’ permission and for them to ask for the hand of the girl his loves to marry him. After marriage many young couples will stay the first two years in the home of one of the couple’s parents, until they have one or two children. At that time, the parents will help to take care of the children and the couple will move to their own place. JAN - Mar, 2014
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A question of arrangement
Angkor National Museum
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The Legend Revealed
ride price, dowry, possession, obligation, and arranged marriage. Words that instantly make the average western woman cringe, and yet in Cambodia these are parts of every girl’s life, and never more so then at the announcement of her upcoming wedding. Survey any group of western woman and reactions to bride prices and dowries certainly fall on the negative side. Yet, in Cambodia and in many parts of Asia the dowry is a sign of a future husband’s capability to provide, and look after his new wife. The concept is completely normal and being offended by it, is seen as at best funny, or at worse, ill- advised and ignorant. Arranged marriages are alive and well in Cambodia. Most marriages have been arranged by parents rather than by the nuptials themselves. Forced arrangements are now on the decline and girls have the right to refuse their parents, but in practice this is extremely uncommon. Love is not necessarily a driving force and something that comes later, if at all. According to Buddhist religion it is the parent’s obligation to find a spouse for their son or daughter and marry them into a good family. For many Khmer girls it is about making sure their parents are happy before they die. Cambodian weddings are a colorful affair. Instead of searching for that ‘one perfect dress’, brides often have up to ten costume changes, with hair, make up and wedding party changing along with them. Weddings too are steeped in tradition and while ceremonies have changed somewhat from the realistic to the reenactment, each wedding continues the ancient traditions. Weddings in Cambodia generally span multiple days. Some ceremonies are for family and close friends and others for the many invited guests. Walking with the groom to the bride’s house carrying silvers plates loaded with freshly killed chickens, coke and fruit offerings is an amazing experience. The cleansing ceremony and “pretending to cut the couples hair” certainly brings many smiles to the faces of guests. For me the most
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moving part of the wedding ceremony is participating in the “knot tying” where guests tie red strands around the couples wrists which bring them luck and happiness and are worn for many days after the wedding. It may surprise the modern western bride that the roots for our western wedding are ancient and come from
As the western world’s divorce rates skyrocket and the emergence of the “quickie divorce” or “no fault divorce” makes it even easier, Cambodia reports a tiny 2.5% of marriages end in divorce. In Cambodia, traditionally values and religious beliefs held strong and domestic violence was rare. However the rise of domestic violence increases steadily and it’s an issue that
The Angkor National Museum is the most important museum dedicated to the Angkor civilization in Cambodia and Asia. It is located in Siem Riep City, in the exclusive Charles de Gaulle Avenue, at the north of the National Road.
Lintel Style: Banteay Srei Date : 10th Century Display in Gallery C
Its collection, exhibited in eight galleries (the Exclusive Gallery and the other ones identified from A to G), numbers several masterpieces of theAngkor temples and it is the most complete representation of the culture, history and archeology of the Golden Age of Cambodia. The Charles de Gaulle Avenue is not far from the temples itself (about two kilometers from downtown). The facade keeps the harmony of the Angkorian unique architecture. Comparable to any modern museum in the world, it has a fast ticketing service system (and it is possible to book online), a Guide Map and Audio Tour Set (personal translation device) with eight languages (Khmer, English, German, Korean, Japanese, French, Chinese and Thai.) It is a highly recommended place to complete visits to the temples. The combination of modern technologies with its multimedia presentations is ready to introduce the visitor into the magic of the Angkor world.
Groom & Gift Procession to get in the Wedding House many cultures and of course the church. Historically marriages were arranged by parents and routinely were not arrangements based on love, but rather for the economical benefit of the families. The word bride has English origins and literally translated to “cook”. Finally, the now ever popular “bridal shower” is said to originate from when father did not approve of weddings and villagers brought together a collection of goods to act as you guessed it, the dowry! As my Western girlfriends have babies later, lament over the lack of potential men, go through divorce, or perhaps enjoy the sexual freedoms of the west, my Khmer girlfriends have an opposite approach to life and marriage. A women’s virtue is of the utmost importance and sexual freedom is something that is not necessarily wanted and certainly frowned upon. Even in marriage, some Khmer women have little sexual freedom and are seen to be there to provide for their husbands needs. JAN - Mar, 2014
historically has been viewed as private, and a matter for husbands and wives or their families to resolve. As the problem continues to rise, Cambodian society will need to adapt, change its thinking, and provide support for victims and their families. I can’t help but compare the strength of the family structure in Cambodia to countries like Australia where this continues to be eroded, and wonder what role the institution of marriage plays upon this. Are we better off finding our own partners in life, and walking away when things don’t work out? Or is better to allow our families to influence our decision making and choose our partners for us? As for the dowry, by the time I finished talking to people about this I started to realize that actually its rather like the father of the bride paying for the wedding…. As I struggle to actually write that, I realize there is still part of me that struggles with the concept.
The Museum is placed in 20 thousand square meters (65,616 sq. feet) surrounded with the Cambodian traditional gardens and the exclusivity of the northern area of Siem Riep City.
The Museum Mall
The Museum is the product of a joint effort of the Royal Ministry of Culture and Fine Art, the APSARA Authority and the Museum Co., Ltd. on a 30 year concession period. No doubt, it is a world class museum dedicated to the preservation of the Khmer artifacts, collections and restorations of the fascinating Angkor Civilization. The Angkor National Museum is unique in Cambodia. It has its own style and its full inspiration in the ancient glorious time of the Khmer Empire, just at the doors of the temples. by A. Rodas
Gallery 6 : Ancient Costume
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People of Cambodia Cambodia is ethnically homogeneous. More than 90% of its population is of Khmer origin and speaks the Khmer language, the country’s official language. The remainder include Chinese, Vietnamese, Cham, Khmer Loeu, and Indians. The Khmer language is a member of the Mon - Khmer subfamily of the Austroasiatic language group. French, once the lingua franca of Indochina and still spoken by some, mostly older Cambodians as a second language, remains the language of instruction in various schools and universities that are often funded by the government of France. Cambodian French, a remnant of the country’s colonial past, is a dialect found in Cambodia and is frequently used in government. However, in recent decades, many younger Cambodians and those in the business - class have favoured learning English. In the major cities and tourist centers, English is widely spoken and taught at a large number of schools due to the overwhelming number of tourists from English - speaking countries.
Map of Cambodia The first advanced civilizations in present-day Cambodia appeared in the 1st millennium AD. During the 3rd, 4th, and 5th centuries, the Indianised states of Funan and Chenla coalesced in what is now present - day Cambodia and southwestern Vietnam. These states, which are assumed by most scholars to have been Khmer, had close relations with China and India. Their collapse was followed by the rise of the Khmer Empire, a civilization which flourished in the area from the 9th century to the 13th century. The Khmer Empire declined yet remained powerful in the region until the 15th century. The empire’s center of power was Angkor, where a series of capitals was constructed during the empire’s zenith. Angkor Wat, the
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most famous and best-preserved religious temple at the site, is a reminder of Cambodia’s past as a major regional power.
Even in the most rural outposts, however, most young people speak at least some English, as it is often taught by monks at the local pagodas where many children are educated.
The dominant religion Theravada Buddhism (95%) was suppressed by the Khmer Rouge but has since experienced a revival. Islam (3%) and Christianity (2%) are also practiced. Civil war and its aftermath have had a marked effect on the Cambodian population. The median age is 20.6 years, with more than 50% of the population younger than 25. At 0.95 males/female, Cambodia has the most female - biased sex ratio in the Greater Mekong Subregion. In the Cambodian population over 65, the female to male ratio is 1.6:1. UNICEF has designated Cambodia the third most mined country in the world,[24] attributing over 60,000 civilian deaths and thousands more maimed or injured since 1970 to the unexploded landmines left behind in rural areas. The majority of the victims are children herding animals or playing in the fields. Adults that survive landmines often require amputation of one or more limbs and have to resort to begging for survival.
After a long series of wars with neighbouring kingdoms, Angkor was sacked by the Thai and abandoned in 1432. The court moved the capital to Lovek where the kingdom sought to regain its glory through maritime trade.
In 2006, the number of landmines casualties in Cambodia took a sharp decrease of more than 50% compared to 2005, with the number of landmines victims down from 800 in 2005 to less than 400 in 2006.
The attempt was short-lived, however, as continued wars with the Thai and Vietnamese resulted in the loss of more territory and the conquering of Lovek in 1594. During the next three centuries, The Khmer kingdom alternated as a vassal state of the Thai and Vietnamese kings, with short-lived periods of relative independence between.
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Getting stares on the streets of Cambodia: buses for the masses
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — This city of nearly two million people has many of the amenities of a modern metropolis — broadband Internet, automated teller machines and fancy restaurants, to name a few. But until this month, the capital of Cambodia had no public transportation system. To get around, residents had to inure themselves to perilous rides on motorcycle taxis or dust-smothered commutes in open three-wheeled tuk-tuks. Now, in an experiment underwritten by the Japanese government, Phnom Penh is giving the relatively alien concept of public city buses a try. Ten buses are making their way up and down Monivong Boulevard, one of the city’s main thoroughfares, for a month to see if they catch on with Cambodians.
Egami Masahiko, representative of the Japan International Cooperation Agency, said that with Cambodia’s economy growing steadily and the streets of Phnom Penh choked with traffic, the timing was right. Mass transit, he said, is “fundamental infrastructure for a modern city.
unruliness she said she saw in the streets, where traffic laws are rarely enforced. She described Phnom Penh’s traffic as a freefor-all, comparing it to “children refusing to obey their parents,” and wondered whether the bus service would prove effective. An earlier experiment, sponsored by Japan in 2001, ended after several weeks. The new experiment, relying on rented buses and temporary staff, appears to have rapidly won admirers. The buses are often packed at rush hour, and a supervisor of the line says that about 3,000 people are using them daily.
Since the buses began running Feb. 5, curious residents have been climbing aboard just for a test ride. “We don’t know where we are going,” said one rider, a 13-yearold high school student, staring out the window one recent morning. It was her first time on a bus, she said, adding, “It’s kind of a new experience.” Cambodia has plenty of private buses that ferry people across
the countryside and connect provincial cities with the capital. But developing mass transit within Phnom Penh has until now ranked low on the priority list in a country where one-third of the population does not have running water.
Ticket collectors wear shirts that say, “Take the bus for a better future of Phnom Penh.” And yet the immediate future of public transportation remains cloudy. The government has yet to set many of the specifics, including the starting
date, for a permanent service that will follow if the one-month experiment is deemed a success.
If it does, many city residents may need a quick primer on the ins and outs of bus riding.
Mr. Egami, the Japanese agency’s representative, emphasizes the importance of low fares to lure customers. He said he doubted that a public transportation system could be run at a profit, at least in the early stages. “It will require a subsidy,” he said.
Khay Sovanvisal, a supervisor on the experiment, said he was constantly fielding questions from curious people who wandered past his white canvas tent at one terminus of the route. He hands out about 500 brochures a day, listing the fare — 1,500 riels (less than 40 cents) — and declaring that it “is not too expensive.”
That appeared to be at odds with the city government’s intentions. Long Dimanche, a spokesman for the Phnom Penh municipality, said that it had chosen a private company to run the buses and that “there will be no subsidy.” The contractor “has expertise,” Mr. Dimanche said, but he declined to identify the company. “If everything works out,” he said, a permanent service will begin this year.
A woman hurried up to Mr. Sovanvisal, apologized for interrupting and asked what time her relative, who had boarded the bus on the other side of the city, would arrive at this end of the line. “I can’t tell you that,” Mr. Sovanvisal said patiently. “The bus comes every 10 minutes. It depends which one she’s on.”
The genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge, which ended in 1979, damaged the country’s social fabric so badly that Cambodians came to assume that in many facets of life, including transportation, they were mostly on their own. Some riders on the new Japanesesponsored buses in the capital said that the lack of a public transportation system was emblematic of a country where government assistance was rare and civic-mindedness in short supply. “People here don’t have a long vision,” said Khem Vannary, an actress on Cambodian television and an enthusiastic adopter of the bus experiment. “They don’t understand how a bus can improve their lives.” Ms. Vannary lamented the
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Phnom Banan, Battambang The countryside surrounding Battambang is quite beautiful, including many old pagodas such as Wat Kor, and Wat Ksach Puoy, the Angkorian era ruins of Phnom Banan and Wat Ek Phnom, caves, waterfalls, mountain viewpoints, and even the Khmer Rouge period killing caves at Phnom Sampeau.
Rice Bowl of cambodia
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attambang is a relaxed and laid back town sitting on the banks of the Sangker River just to the south west of the Tonle Sap lake, Battambang is primarily a farmer and trader town, The area is known locally and internationally as the “Rice Bowl” of Cambodia. This is because the economy of Battambang is extremely efficient in the production of rice, and additionally because of the comparative advantage and local endowments in the region. An estimated 2,400 square kilometers of land is used in rice production, with the figure growing consistently 42
each year. The abundance of land results in over 500,000 tonnes of rice being produced annually; around 300,000 tonnes of that rice is traded locally and internationally and makes a refreshing change from the tourist town of Siem Reap as it still has a very local, untouristed, provincial atmosphere. Much of the town’s architecture is French colonial and traditional Cambodian with very few buildings over three stories. There is a new shopping mall building nice most shops sall cloth and food at evening time. The main streets are shared by cars, motorbikes, bicycles, JAN - Mar, 2014
As you leave the town the scene quickly becomes one of small villages, within just a few kilometers of town the countryside is filled with stilted houses, ancient covered bridges, and rice paddies that stretch to the horizon, broken by occasional hills intriguingly named after local folklore such as Crocodile Mountain, Duck Cage Hill, and Turtle Mountain.
During the dry season as the waters of the Sangker River recede the river banks are planted with a wide range of fruit and vegetables making the local village markets, such as Ksach Puoy, a great place to purchase local produce.
You will also witness local products in the making - silk weaving, rice paper, noodles and fish paste.
dream that some day a holy man on a white horse would vanquish him, so he decided it would be a good idea to have all the holy men rounded up and put to death.
and horse carts making Battambang a pleasant place to explore for a day or two. The Battambang Museum, located on the riverside, contains some interesting Angkor - era artifacts taken from the surrounding countryside, and there is a small exhibition hall next door which often has interesting displays. Battambang is also home to some of the most interesting pagodas in Cambodia, such as Wat Sangker, Wat Kandal, and Wat Damrei Sor, and they are certainly worth visiting as you stroll around enjoying the colonial architecture and laid - back ambiance.
In the late afternoon light the rural scenery is simply breathtaking.
When the prince, now a practicing monk, heard he was required to go into town a hermit came up and gave him a white horse. When the prince got on the horse he discovered it could fly and he flew into town.
Yarn of Battambang A yarn about Battambang, Battambang is Khmer for ‘disappearing stick’, and legend has it that a local cowherd named Ta Dambong found a
magic stick and used it to usurp the then King. The King’s son escaped by running off to the woods and became a monk. In the meantime, Ta Dambong enjoyed ruling the area with the help of his powerful stick. However, one night he had a Jan - Mar, 2014
Upon seeing this holy man on a flying white horse Ta Dambong realised his dream was coming true, in a attempt to kill the ‘holy man’ he threw his magic stick at him, but seeing this fail he fled the area and was never seen again. 43
Khmer cuisine:
diverse, and original
Over the centuries, Khmer cooking has been enriched by its contact with various countries.
Over the centuries, Khmer cooking has been enriched by its contact with various countries. Cambodia has drawn on influences from the cuisines of China, India, Thailand, Vietnam, and France, all of whom are powerful players in Cambodian history.
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o discover the cooking of Cambodia is to take a step back in time, to the era of the kingdom of Angkor, the cradle of Khmer civilization. It was then that Cambodian cooking first developed its identity and began to flourish. Rarely written down, recipes were instead handed down from mother to daughter. From this ancient origin has come a traditional cuisine of unsuspected sophistication -- a unique blend of flavors and colors that enhance the always fresh, natural ingredients.
From these multiple influences, Khmer cuisine took on a unique diversity. Thus you will find a surprising and enchanting blend of flavors -- sweet, salty, bitter and sour, side-by-side in harmony, sometimes even within a single dish, to offer a most original melody.
A multitude of colors and a blend of flavors. The staple food for Cambodians is rice. Almost every meal includes a bowl of rice, although noodles are also popular. A wide range of curries, soups and stirfries are served with rice. Many rice varieties are available in Cambodia, including aromatic rice and glutinous or sticky rice. The latter is more commonly found in desserts with fruits like durian or mango. Khmer cuisine shares much in common with the food of neighboring Thailand, although it is generally not as spicy as Thai
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food; and with Vietnam, with which it shares many common dishes and a colonial history, both being part of the French colonial empire in Southeast Asia. One notable legacy of the French is the baguette, a small loaf of crusty bread which the Cambodians often eat with pâté, tinned sardines, or eggs. One of these with a cup of strong coffee, sweetened with condensed milk, is an example of a common Cambodian breakfast. China brought steam cooking, soy sauce, and noodles; India contributed curry.Curry dishes, known as kari, show more than a trace of the vast cultural influence from India. The many variations of rice noodles show the influences from Chinese cuisine.
Typically, Cambodians eat their meals with at least three or four separate dishes. A meal will usually include a soup, or samlor, served alongside the main courses. Each individual dish may be either sweet, sour, salty or bitter. Chili and garlic are served on the side, and left up to individual diners and to their taste. In this way Cambodians ensure that they get a bit of every flavor to satisfy their palates. During the meal, water or cold tea is drunk (unlike the Chinese, who drink their tea hot). At the end of the meal, and outside of meals, Cambodians drink “choum,” a rice liquor, and a locally made cognac. You will also come to see the importance that Cambodian
cooking places on color. Since we “eat first with our eyes,” the ingredients that make up a dish are like a painter’s palette. Gleaming red chilies, bright green limes, orangish shrimp on a white coconut background -the painting is colorful and harmonious, the flavors distinct yet all the more subtle. When visiting the “Kingdom of Wonder”, do not shy away from exploring the wonders of Khmer cuisine. You’re sure to enjoy the adventure of it all!
About the Author: Tsai Yen is a Taiwan-born, Los Angeles-based restaurateur.
Preserved lemons are a unique ingredient not commonly found in the cooking of Cambodia’s neighbors, but used in some Khmer dishes. Coconut milk is the main ingredient of many Khmer curries and desserts. One popular skewer or “kebab” is the “golden sapeck,” small pieces of pork tenderloin interspersed with bits of bacon and slices of Chinese sausage grilled over hot coals. Jan - Mar, 2014
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Tourism on the rise
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