Moutai Magazine - International Edition Issue 5 Autumn 2014

A Cup of Liquor，a Journey 一杯酒 , 一段旅程

www.moutaichina.com

Inheritance, Legend

傳承 傳奇

Continue the Historical Classic And Live an Extraordinary Life www.moutaichina.com

延續歷史經典，抒寫非凡人生

CONTRIBUTORS

CHINA KWEICHOW MOUTAI DISTILLERY (GROUP) CO., LTD. Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501

KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

Maotai, Renhuai City, Guizhou Province, China 564501 Production & Advertising Sales Agent: ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED Room 2103, 21/F, Sino Plaza, No.255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Fax: (852) 3580 2588 Consultants : Yuan Renguo, Chen Min, Liu Zili, Zhao Shuyue, Fang Guoxing

Yu Yat Yiu A talented well-known music producer.

Music creations included pop music, musicals, dance music, movie and TV soundtracks. In 1997, Yu, Anthony Wong, and a team of musicians and artists established an independent music production company "People Mountain People Sea".

Publisher Francis Wong

Chief Executive Officer Christine Yin Creative Director Dora Lu

Managing Editor Konzen Hou Project Manager Grace Liu Art Director Johnny Woo

Senior Project Editor Laura Su, Towerman Guo, Cher Chen Assistant Project Editor Nikita Wan Marketing Executive

Denise Chan

Photographers Oldhou&Kangsheng, Vasum So

Jing Cheng CEO of Noble Tree Publishing Inc., and editor-in-chief of PiPa Magazine.

She earned an M.S. degree from the University of Illinois and has served as a columnist for several media outlets in China.

Translators Billy Yung, Grace Liu, Denise Chan, Meng Yuan Advertising Enquires Tel: (852) 3580 2598 Email er-hk@everreliable.net

RIGHTS

Moutai Magazine (international edition) is published quarterly by ER HONGKONG HOLDING LIMITED under a licence by KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD. Reprints, copy or use of any content in this magazine whether in whole or in part, shall only be allowed with the explicit written permission of KWEICHOW MOUTAI CO., LTD.

No responsibility can be taken for unsolicited texts and photographs.

The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher,

Dora Lu As a holder of Bachelor's degree in Communication and Master's degree in Fine Arts, and a tenured researcher of the Visual Culture Institute, Dora Lu keeps focusing on traditional arts and Chinese liquor culture, and becomes a creative columnist for various newspapers and magazines.

editors or the licence holder.

All contents in this magazine have been complied with the best of our knowledge,

but no warranty or representation is given as to its accuracy, completeness, relevance, timeliness or otherwise.

Moutai Magazine (international edition) appears quarterly with

editions published under cooperation or licence in two languages.

Sponsor: Top Gainer Industrial Limited

Dong Tiezhu Special Thanks :

Dong Tiezhu is a holder of Ph.D in Chinese culture at the University of California, Berkeley. Familiar with both Chinese and Western culture, Dong has been teaching Chinese culture at Wofford College (USA) and United International College (Zhuhai).

Every life is a journey intertwined with encounters.

This issue of "MOUTAI Magazine" will have an appointment with time.

In Wan Chai that is blended with both the new and the old, we encounter the past, present, and future of a city.

Encounter is a coincidence of fate, the pulse of the times, and the lustre of civilization.

Encounter occurs not only at the present.

In the tacit understanding between a noted chef and the God of Food, in a fragrant journey with spirits, in the exploration of a national brand, and in the search of an oriental fable, we encounter life and art.

每一場人生，都是相遇交織的旅程。 本期《MOUTAI Magazine》赴時光之約， 在新舊交融的灣仔， 遇見一座城市的過去、現在及未來。 相遇是命運的巧合， 相遇是時代的脈搏， 相遇是文明的光澤。 相遇不只存在於發生的當下， 在名廚與食神的心靈默契中， 在與美酒同行的醇香旅程中， 在民族品牌的探索中，在東方寓言的找尋中， 我們遇見生活，遇見藝術。

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Every Drop of Mellow Liquor Has an Extraordinary Journey 每一滴醇香 都有一段不平凡的旅程 www.moutaichina.com

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An Appointment With Time Feel the prosperity and memory of a city blended with both the new and the old 在新舊交融間觸摸城市的繁華與記憶

This issue's cover is inspired by "The Country of Summer Insects" that has been nominated for five international film festivals.

Due to inextricable limitations, people, throughout their life, keep searching for the meaning of living and the value of life. Near the vast South China Sea, wisps of smoke rose and the attics with red beams and green tiles were gradually unveiled in an unadorned background tone… 本期封面靈感來源於已入圍 5 個國際電影節的《夏蟲國》 。 由於無法擺脫的局限，人終其一生都在尋找，尋找生活的意義，生命 的價值。茫茫南海中，渺渺雲煙升起，古拙的背景色調裏，紅梁綠瓦 的閣樓漸次鋪開⋯⋯

Photo Credit: "The Country of Summer Insects" 圖片來源於影片《夏蟲國》

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Encounter Between Noted Chef and God of Food

Knife of a Wine Lover

An encounter between food and fashion 一場美食與時尚的邂逅

A French knife with immortal legend 擁有不老傳說的法國酒刀

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Significance of Search

Encountering Life and Art

An ancient oriental fable of exploring the nature of life 古老的東方寓言關於生命本質的探尋

A Chinese teahouse for expressing a brand-new attitude to life 傳遞全新生活態度的中國茶室

CONTENT 目錄 06 Introduction 導語 48 Significance of Search 尋找的意義 10 An Appointment With Time 時光之約

56 Flying With Dreams 帶夢想去遨遊

22 A Fragrant Journey 醇香的旅程 62 Encountering Life and Art 遇見生活 遇見藝術 26 Encounter Between Noted Chef and God of Food 名廚與食神的相遇 32 Living With Good Wines 與美酒同行

38 An Exploring Trip for a pair of Lady Shoes 一雙女鞋的探索 42 Knife of a Wine Lover 愛酒人的刀

68 "Moutai Night" for the European Finals of Miss Chinese Pageant 南法「茅台之夜」中華小姐歐洲區總決賽 72 Savouring Column: Savouring Moutai's Beauty 尋味專欄：品鑒茅台之美 74 Alcohol Culture Column: Historical Imprint on "Moutai" 酒事專欄：「MOUTAI」裏的歷史聲音 76 Drinking Intellectually Column: Gao Luopei, a Man Between Elegance and Vulgarity 文字飲專欄：雅俗之間高羅佩 78 Moutai on the World Map 茅台在全球

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An Appointment With Time 時光之約

TEXT/ 文：Konzen Hou PHOTO/ 攝：Oldhou&Kangsheng, Vasum So SPECIAL THANKS/ 特別鳴謝：港島英迪格酒店

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The Past The Present The Future The hustle and bustle hides the past imprint, As well as the present and future themes.

In a travel with both imagination and reality, Every moment has a wonderful encounter.

In the Wan Chai neighbourhood covered with traces of time, Vibrant buildings are full of vitality.

In Hotel Indigo that is integrated with the local culture, Backtracking along the discernable clues, Is just like an appointment with time, And the destination, Is the memory of a city. 繁華中隱藏著過去的印記， 以及現在和未來的主題。 一場想象與現實同時進行的旅行， 每一刻都有奇妙的相遇。 在灣仔布滿歲月痕跡的街區， 亦有如飛龍般躍動的樓宇充滿時代活力， 在融合當地文化的英迪格酒店， 沿著有跡可尋的線索回溯， 如一場時光之約， 抵達之處，是一座城市的記憶。

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Encountering the Past With shuttling trams, rushing crowds, complicated commodities, and dense signboards, The street view of Wan Chai seems to never change.

The only difference between day and night is the alternation of sunshine and lamplight.

The Happy Cake Shop has not raised its prices for a decade; The Old Post Office with new identity still stands there; As a witness of time, the Blue House is filled with yellowish Hong Kong stories.

Savour the nameless snacks in the streets of a foreign land.

Observe the slow and quiet life of the neighbourhood.

The present when we encounter is also a flowing past.

相遇過去 穿梭的電車、匆忙的人群、繁雜的商品、林立的招牌， 灣仔街市的氣息仿佛永遠不變， 白日和夜間毫無差別，除了日光和燈光的交替。

快活餅店十年不曾漲價， 身份已改的舊郵局依然矗立， 緊守著光陰的藍屋寫滿微黃的香港故事。 在異鄉街道尋味叫不出名字的小吃， 觀摩街坊鄰裏緩慢而平靜的生活， 我們相遇的當下也是一段流動的過去。

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Embracing the Present The colour of the decorated shells varies with lights; The abstract texture harbours the sound of sea breeze as well as the hustle and bustle of the dock.

The Skybar flashes with bamboo shadows and blinks with city lights; The mosaic murals tell the past prosperity.

Time is long and tortuous; The liquor cup in the afternoon sunshine keeps silent.

The long life is just a few highlights; Once laying down your luggage, you will be part of this story; Embracing the present is the only highlight that can be captured.

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擁抱現在 斑斕的貝殼裝飾，色彩隨燈光變幻， 抽象的紋理藏留著海風的聲音和碼頭的喧囂。 Skybar 搖曳著竹影也閃爍著城市之光， 馬賽克壁畫訴說著往昔繁华。 時間，漫長而曲折， 午後陽光下的酒杯緘默不語。 漫長的一生就是幾個精彩的片段， 放下行囊便置身於故事的腳本， 擁抱現在是唯一能抓住的精彩。

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Encountering the Future The journey of backtracking is clarified in the time.

Time seems to be blended; Just like an agreed appointment, old and new buildings coexist, Vividly and harmoniously.

For a city, They are the element as well as the container of memory; Different times and different cultures meet here, And collide together to generate the eternal and warm sound; The future is presenting the same beauty in different moments.

邂逅未來 回溯的旅程在時間中澄明。 仿佛時光交融，新舊建築約定般默契， 生動而和諧。 於一座城市， 它們是記憶的元素也是記憶的容器， 不同的時代、不同的文明在這裡相遇， 碰撞出生活永恆而溫暖的聲音， 未來在不同時刻呈現著相同的美麗。

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A Fragrant Journey 醇香的旅程 TEXT/ 文：Dora Lu Laura Su Peggy TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

From the hinterland of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau at a latitude of 27° , a mysterious fragrance is carried along a river flowing through a unique karst landscape. Here is the Moutai Town, located in Guizhou province in China. This town is the birthplace of China Kweichow Moutai, a liquor that shares the title "the top three distilled liquors of the world" with cognac brandy from France and whisky from Scotland. 沿著北緯 27°的軌跡，在中國西南的雲貴高原腹地，從世界獨有的喀斯特地貌中潺潺穿行的河流正推動著 重重峰巒深藏的神秘酒香。這裏是中國貴州省茅台鎮——這片與眾不同的土地誕生了與法國科涅克白蘭地、英 國蘇格蘭威士卡齊名的世界三大蒸餾名酒——中國貴州茅台酒。

T

he beginning of this fragrant journey can be traced back to a single seed, to a section of a flowing river....

Originating from the "Roof of the World", the Yangtze River is the longest river in Asia. The Chishui River, one of its many tributaries, flows through the Northwestern Renhuai City of Guizhou Province in China. On its eastern bank lies the major production centre for the Chinese Jiang (sauce) fragrance liquor where the tradition of brewing has continued uninterrupted for thousands of years, largely due to its unique natural environment. The valley here serves as nature's liquor cellar. The area is surrounded by mountains, with mild winters and hot summers. It is humid with moderate rainfall and is sheltered from the wind.

The core ingredients of Moutai are water, sorghum, and wheat.

Water is the backbone of any high-quality liquor. The water of the Chishui River, coupled with the mildly acidic purple soil of the valley results in the quality water used for the production of Moutai. The wild nature of the river is tamed as it flows through Moutai Town, and is further harnessed to suit the needs for the different brewing stages. In early summer, during the fermentation stage of the brewing process, minimal water is required. The river turns a reddish brown hue due to the high rainfall and provides a rich source of nutrients for the crops on both river banks. When autumn comes, the making of Moutai requires a significant amount of water. At this time, the Chishui River reverts back to its pristine form, with its water once again clear and visible to the bottom of the river. One cannot help but marvel at this tacit understanding between man and nature.

The glutinous sorghum, an ancient grain native to this region, is the only and best choice for the production of quality Moutai. It is a small and highly tannic grain with a thick husk and high level of amylopectin. The koji used in the production of Moutai is derived from quality organic wheat. To provide the quality raw materials needed to make quality liquor, the farmers must adhere to traditional farming practices. They must comply strictly to the demanding horticulture requirements, such as the use of non genetically modified

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seeds and totally natural fertilizer free of chemicals and pesticides.

As a first time visitor, you will surely be impressed with the pristine ecology and be intoxicated by the ubiquitous fragrance of Moutai in the air.

The mysteries of the climate, the land, the water, and even the surrounding air, appear to harbour the secret of this beautiful liquor.

As a result of thousands of years of uninterrupted brewing tradition, the air in "China's premier liquor town" is rich with a diverse range of microorganisms. It is exactly these invisible spirits that give Moutai its distinctive style and personality!

Covering an area of 15.03 square kilometres, the Moutai production area lies within China's national protected zone. The uniqueness of this area means that Moutai is destined to be a product of rare scarcity.

Whilst the natural ingredients are undoubtedly a gift from nature, to transform a humble grain of sorghum into a glass of quality liquor requires the brewing skills of artisans passed down from one generation to the next.

The brewing of liquor is considered the fifth greatest invention in Chinese civilization. The technique of Moutai production is both a state secret as well as a national cultural heritage for China, the craftsmanship of which is likened to a living fossil.

Every stage in the production of Moutai strictly adheres to the twenty four solar phases of the different seasons as dictated

by Chinese farming traditions. From the production of koji during the Dragon Boat Festival in early summer to the addition of other ingredients during the Double Ninth Festival, the entire complex process takes a year, covering up to 100 different stages. The ingredients are steamed nine times before going through eight different fermentations and seven distillations. The blood and sweat of the master brewers ensure that the final product retains a pure Chinese flavour.

The liquor collected at this stage is not the finished product. The Moutai that we know is a perfect blend of hundreds of liquor all at

different stages, with different fragrances and ages. This process can only be achieved by master blenders who require sensitive palates and expert skills. Moutai is blended entirely using liquors, without adding any other substances such as aromatics or water. Throughout the entire process, the one indispensable "additive" is perhaps the "flowing inspiration" of the master blenders who fully utilize their

experience and inspiration to achieve the best balance that results in the peerless aroma and flavour of Moutai. Coupled with a minimum of three years of cellaring, from the moment a seed is sowed to the finished bottle, the whole process requires five years. The long and arduous production process, grounded in traditional craftsmanship, means that the production of Moutai is destined to be limited.

Even first time drinkers will easily uncover Moutai's personalities.

In one glass are complex aromas, a mellow and smooth mouth-feel, and a lingering aftertaste that does not leave one with a hangover.

The high quality comes not only from the calibre of the ingredients but also from the core production techniques; an embodiment of yin and yang fermentations and high temperature distillation.

Open fermentation (also known as "yang" fermentation) is unique to this style of liquor production where airborne microorganisms

beneficial to human wellbeing are garnered. This is followed by closed fermentation (also known as "yin" fermentation) where the cellar is sealed with mud to absorb the "essence of the earth".

High temperature distillation determines the quality of the liquor.

Fermentation at high temperature (60째 C and above) leads to a special microbial system dominated by high temperature tolerant and

aromatic bacteria which produce the unique aromas of the Moutai koji. Condensation at 40째 C enables many hazardous substances with low boiling points to fully volatize whilst retaining the aromatics that have higher boiling points. This is the key to the health benefits of Moutai and also explains why there are no negative after-effects.

The magnificent cellar is the last stop of the brewing journey.

The use of pottery jars (amphora) to cellar liquor is a Chinese tradition. These jars have a porous structure so that the liquor can breathe during the cellaring process, interacting with the unique atmosphere of the ancient town. During the cellaring process, the harsher flavours gradually mellow, resulting in a richer fragrance.

The years of culture and spirituality coupled with the fragrant aromas developed in the brewing process can all be experienced in one glass of Moutai.

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The fragrance of Moutai, due to the natural fermentation process, is made up of a combination of more than a hundred complex aromatics. These aromatic components, yet to be fully deciphered, rival liquors from around the world and are said to be the most complex. From the top notes to the more subtle after notes, one can smell fragrance of flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness and dried plants before giving way to the end note of a delicate and lingering sourness which adds a touch of elegance that one savours for a long time afterwards. Moutai is a clear liquor with a slightly yellow hue whilst aged Moutai will start to develop an attractive amber tone.

The most appropriate way to savour this liquor, with its high alcohol content at 53%, is to sip it slowly. Initially, a silky smoothness will coat the tip of one's tongue together with a mellow mouth feel before giving way to gentle smoky flavours as one swallows. After swallowing, a sweet taste lingers in the mouth, a moist scent fills the nose and a warmth spreads across the body, adding a pleasant surprise to the drinking process. In comparison to liquor from around the world, Moutai is unique as every step of the consumption experience is the result of natural fermentation using organic ingredients, without the addition of any other aromatics.

Amongst the world of Chinese liquors, Moutai is unique in that it has garnered in one single product the title of Level A clean, organic and geographically representative products from the China authorities.

Research has shown that Moutai contains significant amount of naturally occurring polyphenols, various acids including unsaturated fatty acid, and other healthy components. In some cases, the levels are higher than those found in many wines. Evidences from real life examples also point to the health benefits of moderate consumption.

Jujiang liquor, the predecessor of Moutai, was highly praised and deemed an imperial tribute by Emperor Wu of the Han dynasty more than two thousand years ago. From that distant era, Moutai was destined to become the famous liquor it is today. At the Panama Pacific International Exposition in 1915, amongst the crème de la crème of the world's finest produces, Moutai was awarded a gold medal for its unique oriental aromas. Subsequently, it has continued to win international awards with its excellent quality and garnered widespread praise, becoming the national liquor of China.

To taste Moutai is to taste China.

Perhaps you may experience the profoundness of history and the changing of the seasons, taste the vividness of a thousand years of culture and the soul of its cuisine, or even hear the power of the river that runs through the oriental valley and the joy of a bumper harvest …all from a glass of Moutai! This is a life journey of reincarnation, starting from the earth, through the vivid seasons and the silence of time, full of surprises and mellow fragrance, before returning to the earth with the temperament of a poet, with thorough insight, and endless aftertaste....

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貴州茅台酒產區

Production area of Kweichow Moutai

一段河流，一粒種子，是這個充滿醇香旅程的起點。 發源於「世界屋脊」的長江是亞洲第一大河，支流赤水河流經中 國貴州省仁懷西北部，其東岸是中國醬香型白酒的核心產區，獨特的 自然環境令這裏的釀酒傳統延續了數千年。茅台河谷四面環山，冬暖 夏熱，少雨少風，高溫高濕，相當於一個天然的酒窖。

的酒液，至少需要五年時間。嚴苛而複雜，並以傳統手工作業為主的 漫長釀造過程，決定了茅台酒只能限量生產。 即使第一次舉杯品飲茅台酒，你也會輕易發現她的個性：層次豐 富的香氣，醇厚的口感，飲後不上頭、不辣喉，不口幹。 這種卓越的品質除了源自優異的原料，還取決於核心技藝——陰

茅台酒的釀造原料為水、高粱與小麥。

陽發酵與高溫工藝。開放式發酵即陽發酵，充分網羅空氣中有益人體

水是美酒的生命。赤水河與峽谷地帶微酸性的紫紅色土壤，共同

健康的微生物，為醬香型白酒獨有；封閉式發酵即陰發酵，將酒醅用

作用，生成了釀造茅台酒的特殊好水。這條河流有著狂放的性格，流

窖泥密封于窖池中發酵，盡吸地之「靈氣」。高溫工藝決定著美酒的

經茅台古鎮時卻收斂了它的野性，溫順的配合釀造的不同時節。初夏，

品質。在 60℃以上的高溫發酵中，將形成以耐高溫產香細菌為主的特

釀造進入發酵階段，無需用水，肆意的雨水沖刷使河水呈現棕紅色，

殊微生物體系，形成特有的曲香，這是茅台風味物質的重要來源之一；

為兩岸的作物提供豐富的養分。秋天是釀造茅台酒大量用水的季節，

在 40℃高溫下接酒，讓很多低沸點、有害物質得以充分揮發，高沸點

此時的赤水河恢復清澈透明，河水充盈。天人合一的默契令人忍不住

香味物質得以保存，這是茅台酒有益健康並飲後舒適的主要原因。

讚歎造物主的神奇。

蔚為大觀的酒庫，是釀造的最後一站。

一種只生長於此地的古老穀物——糯高粱，皮厚、顆粒小、單甯

陶壇是中國白酒釀造特有的存儲器皿，陶器的多孔結構使酒在陳

含量高、支鏈澱粉高，是釀造茅台酒唯一及最佳的選擇。茅台酒曲由

釀中仍然能自由呼吸，與古鎮特殊的空氣交換資訊。陳釀的過程中，

優質有機小麥製成。農戶們嚴格執行最為苛刻的種植要求：使用最正

辛辣逐漸揮發，壇中的酒質越發綿柔醇厚，酒香也更為濃郁和豐富。

宗的種子，純天然的農家肥，不能沾染任何化學肥料和殺蟲劑——遵 循傳統的耕作技術，為美酒提供無法替代的優質原料。 初次來到此地，你會為這裏原生態的大山大水所動容，你還會被 無處不在的濃郁酒香所陶醉。 神秘的天、神秘的地、神秘的水，連空氣中都隱藏了美酒的秘密。

歲月沉澱與鮮活芳香醞釀出的靈性，唯有舉杯才能體悟。 茅台酒的醬香是一種純天然發酵形成的複合香氣，蘊含著上百種 香氣香味成分，可謂世界酒類中最複雜的，時至今日仍舊無法完全辨 別。從初嗅到深嗅，可以聞到花香、青草香、果香、甜香、幹植物香等，

傳承了數千年的釀造活動，讓這個「中國第一酒鎮」的空氣中活躍著

尾調是細膩而悠長的酸香，非常優雅、令人回味良久。茅台酒色澤微

豐富的微生物群落，正是這些看不到的精靈創造出茅台酒與眾不同的

黃清澈，陳年的茅台酒則呈現出更動人的琥珀色。

風格與個性。

對於這款 53 度的烈性酒，小口抿品是最適合的方式。起初，絲綢

15.03 平方公里的茅台酒產區，是中國國家地理保護區。在全世

般的柔滑佈滿舌尖、醇厚的口感充滿存在感，之後咽部感受到一絲煙

界的地圖上，永遠找不到相同甚至相似的地域，這註定了茅台酒是稀

熏味的溫柔熱力，飲後口腔中回蕩著甘甜，溫潤的鼻息以及全身充溢

缺珍品。

的暖意，令品飲過程充滿驚喜。每一步令人傾心的體驗都是純糧釀造 自然發酵的天然產物，沒有任何香氣香味成分的加入，這在所有白酒

山水自然只是上天的恩賜，由一粒高粱釀成一杯人間佳釀，得依靠代 代相傳的釀造藝術。

中是獨一無二的。 茅台酒是中國白酒行業中唯一集 A 級綠色食品、有機食品、國家

白酒釀造技術被譽為「中國第五大發明」，茅台酒的生產工藝是

地理標誌保護產品于一身的健康食品。研究表明，茅台酒含有大量的

中國國家機密，也是中國國家級非物質文化遺產，被稱為白酒工藝的

天然酚類化合物、不飽和脂肪酸等酸類物質及其他健康成分，甚至高

活化石。

於許多葡萄酒，很多實例亦佐證長期適量飲用茅台酒有利於身體健康。

茅台酒工藝中每一個環節都嚴格遵循中國農耕傳統中的春夏秋冬

兩千多年前，漢武帝盛讚並定為皇室貢品的枸醬酒，是茅台酒的

的二十四節氣，初夏的端午節前後開始踩曲，秋天的重陽節前後投料，

前身，從那遙遠的時代起，她已註定會成為舉世名釀。1915 年，茅台

整個釀造過程必須歷經九次蒸煮，八次發酵，七次取酒……繁複的過

在世界精品雲集的巴拿馬萬國博覽會上，以東方的獨特香氣榮獲金獎。

程多達 100 多個工藝環節，酒師們為此付出整整一年的心血，也因此

此後，以卓越品質不斷在國際上攬獲大獎，廣受世界讚譽，被譽為中

讓酒液保持著純正的中國味道。

國的國酒。

此時，採集出的酒液還不是茅台酒。茅台酒必須是上百種不同輪 次、香型、年份的酒液調和成的完美狀態。這個過程只能由勾調大師 最靈敏的舌頭和高妙的技藝才能完成。茅台酒的勾調是「以酒勾酒」，

品味茅台就是品味中國。 一杯茅台酒，也許可讓你品到歷史的浩瀚和四季的流轉，嘗到千

不添加任何外來物質，包括香味物質和水。整個過程中，唯一必不可

年文化的生動和糧食的魂魄，聞到東方山谷裏河水的豐盈和豐收的喜

少的添加物就是勾酒師「流動的靈感」——充分運用他們的經驗與靈感，

悅……這是一場輪回的生命旅程，從大地出發，穿越生動的四季、穿

讓酒體的微量成分達到最佳比例，造就茅台酒非同一般的芳香馥鬱，

越沉默的時光，充滿驚喜、步步醇香，以詩人的性情與透徹的領悟回

以及最少三年的窖藏，這意味著，從第一粒種子下土到成為一瓶完美

饋大地，餘韻無窮。

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Encounter Between

Noted Chef God of Food and

名廚與食神的相遇

TEXT/ 文 : Kangsheng, Cher Chen PHOTO/ 攝：Vasum So TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

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Yeung Koon Yat is a noted chef for "Ah Yat's Abalone" well-known in the world's food circles while Ma Renwei, reputed as the God of Food in Hong Kong, is the first non-star Chinese entrepreneur in the world to be sponsored by Dior. Yeung Koon Yat says: "Moutai and abalone are the best match." Ma Renwei says: "Among all Chinese liquors, the 50-year-old Moutai liquor is my favourite." This is an encounter between a noted chef and the God of Food, and also an encounter between food and fashion. 一個是名震全球美食界的「阿一鮑魚」名廚楊貫一，一個是香港 人稱 God of food（食神）、DIOR 贊助的全球第一位非明星華人企業 家馬仁威。楊貫一說：「茅台酒配鮑魚是一絕的，一絕是最好的意思。」 馬仁威說：「中國白酒我最中意 50 年的茅台。」他們的相逢，是名廚 與食神的相遇，亦是一場美食與時尚的邂逅。

I

n 1986, the Hong Kong shipping tycoon Yue-Kong Pao entertained Deng Xiaoping and his family at the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse. When tasting the abalone dish, Deng Xiaoping said with deep feeling: "The abalone like this is available only after our reform and opening to the outside world."

In fact, the stunt of cooking this delicious abalone was learned from Yeung Koon Yat (Yang Guanyi).

A Hong Kong columnist described the feeling of tasting "Ah Yat's Abalone" like this: "I feel extremely awesome before tasting it, undergo the most wonderful experience in my life when tasting it, and spread its reputation all around after tasting it." Nowadays, numerous Hong Kong wealthy merchants, gourmets, foreign tourists, and foreign dignitaries are attracted to taste the abalone of the Forum Restaurant, a restaurant established all by Yeung Koon Yat. When you enter the main entrance of the restaurant, what greets your eyes is a calligraphy scroll

of "Ah Yat's Abalone, Best in the World" written improvisationally by the Hong Kong celebrity Wang Tingzhi (Tam Shek-wing) after tasting Yeung Koon Yat's abalone.

When Mr. Yeung Koon Yat comes to the Forum Restaurant, the restaurant staff meeting him will respectfully call him "Brother Yat". In fact, 66 years ago, he was just a restaurant cleaner or waiter.

Tracing back to Yeung Koon Yat's past, you will surprisingly find that, over these years, every step is correct and inevitably leads to today. At the age of 16, Yeung Koon Yat dreamed of becoming a manager instead of being ordered about. In 1960, he realized this dream; however, Yeung Koon Yat's exploration to his life did not stop there. With the operating experience accumulated from the catering industry, he wished to be a boss.

In 1974, the Forum Restaurant was opened in Hong Kong and his wish came true. But in 1977, the restaurant's business encountered increasing difficulty. His main chef even left

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the restaurant, putting his business on the brink of collapse. At that time, due to his persistence in cooking and responsibility for the cause, without hesitation, Yeung Koon Yat himself served as the chef and personally cooked dishes for guests.

Yeung Koon Yat had been persistently exploring how to form his own characteristics, which was not an easy task in the food paradise Hong Kong. Then, he surprisingly found that a restaurant specially serving the high-end gourmets with such Chinese cuisines as "abalone, sea cucumber, shark fin, and swim bladder" was very popular among these gourmets. Although expensive, yet that restaurant was always full of customers.

Abalone has long been the best item in Chinese food. Whether in history or today, abalone is not only delicious food, but also implies power and wealth. In Hong Kong, some dried abalones even become a symbol of gold, just as the saying goes, "a bite of abalone is a bite of gold". As early as before the 6th century AD, the Chinese culture of eating abalone had been spread to Japan and Korea. Later, East Asians further spread this custom to the entire world. Abalone was

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one of "eight luxurious sea products in early ancient China, and ranks the first among "four luxurious sea products" (abalone, sea cucumber, shark fin, and swim bladder) in modern times.

A flash of insight led to the subsequent deliberation. Yeung Koon Yat decided to choose abalone for planned research and cooking. In late 1970s, he spent more than 100,000 HKD in total on systematic research of abalone. In Hong Kong at that time, the money could almost buy an entire floor of a building.

After several years of efforts, experiencing two eras, and finally, in the early 1980s, Yeung Koon Yat successfully cooked the delicious abalone with unique flavour. Use the traditional charcoal stove with fierce fire and use the traditional casserole with moderate speed of heat transmission as cooking utensil. Strive to control the heat and duration to be the most accurate. Use old chicken and ribs as ingredients. In this series of choices, no matter which link is missing, the flavour of "Ah Yat's Abalone" cannot be obtained. Watching Mr. Yeung's cooking is like watching an elegant artistic

performance. Besides, in the process of cooking, the ingredients constantly give off various aromas, offering another kind of enjoyment. "Do not use that flowered plate.

With wonderful colours, the stir-fried rice with egg looks better when it is served on a white porcelain plate. Customers will have a better appetite only when the food looks nice on the plate." "Prepare some quail eggs for me. After the bird's nest is filled on the plate, you need to remove the egg white from the quail egg and place the yolk on the bird's nest as decoration." From the finest ingredients to the exquisite utensils, Yeung Koon Yat always adheres to his strict principles to perfect each detail. It is this "strictness" that establishes a reputation rapidly for Ah Yat's Abalone among Hong Kong gourmets and attracts one group of high-end gourmets after another to come here.

"I'm not sure about the one who has not been here. But anyone who has been here and tasted Ah Yat's Abalone will like here," Yeung Koon Yat says confidently. "A few days ago, several American guests came here and specified that they wanted to eat the Australian abalone (6 abalones/600 g).

They ate 5 abalones at our restaurant and took away 15 packaged abalones, spending 230,000 HKD in total," says Mr. Yeung Koon Yat in a very flat tone. Such things have been quite common since the 1980s when "Ah Yat's Abalone" was well-known in the world.

Attracted by the fame of the Forum Restaurant, numerous gourmets come here in waves, leaving many stories. It was also in here that Ma Renwei met Yeung Koon Yat. Back to 1993, Ma Renwei was just one of many ordinary diners who were attracted to taste the delicious abalone. He might not realize that such a wonderful thing was addictive. As time passes, Ma Renwei and Yang Guan knew each other better gradually.

In 1999 when Ma Renwei's wife Mrs. Ma was pregnant, Yeung Koon Yat presented the fish maw and sea cucumber as Mrs. Ma's tonic to Ma Renwei, which impressed Ma Renwei very

much. Between the bridge of delicious food, a chef with strict requirements for cooking and a fashionable youth rather "picky" about food became sworn friends. Interestingly, since then, for every newly opened restaurant of Yeung Koon Yat, Ma Renwei has been always the first customer to pay for the first order.

Ma Renwei only pays for the bill, but does not go eating in the restaurant. Instead, he just preserves the bill of the first order as a souvenir, which has become a unique tacit understanding between them.

Every time mentioning that, Yeung Koon Yat will smile satisfactorily and say: "The proudest thing in my life is that my wish comes true."

Nothing is better than fulfilling the wish and having a confidant. When mentioning the understanding about food, Yeung Koon Yat and Ma Renwei have many consensuses.

"In fact, in the catering industry, to keep customers, the cooked food must be delicious, nice in the plate, and also healthy." "Exactly!

The decoration is not necessarily the most luxury. The healthy food with nice colour, flavour, and taste is the soul and key of a restaurant." Yeung Koon Yat now is 80 years old but is still in good health thanks to his "healthy" principle for every dish. In fact, his age never hinders his pursuit of fashion at all.

Yeung Koon Yat says: "For food, health is an eternal fashion."

Thanks to the deliciousness of Ah Yat's Abalone, Yeung Koon Yat and Ma Renwei become friends; because of the common understanding about fashion and health, they become confidants. According to Yeung Koon Yat's revelations, Ma Renwei always has a good appetite for delicious food and has hardly been on a diet. This, however, does not affect his figure that is as good as those of professional models. Ma Renwei reveals his secret frankly. Besides many aerobic exercises he takes all the year round regardless of any whether condition, his choice of nutritious and healthy food is another key of the secret.

With a youth's slender figure that fits size 48 of model clothes, natural silver hair, and a pair of light brown eyes, Ma Renwei was interviewed as a famous man by a highly tasteful French magazine. The entire process of location shooting was completed thanks to the full support of the Dior Homme International P.R. and Publicity Department.

As a fashionable gourmet with elegant life attitude, Ma Renwei naturally became the first non-star Chinese entrepreneur in the world to be sponsored by Dior.

The pursuit for beauty is born with human. Gourmets, regardless of nationalities, always attach great importance to the pairing between food and spirits. Yeung Koon Yat says: "Delicious food must be coupled with good spirit. Many of our customers like to drink Moutai in our restaurant. Especially in the banquet, we, Chinese prefer to share the best thing with friends." Ma Renwei says that he drinks some spirits every day. For red wine, he likes Chateau Haut-Brion 1982 and 1989; for French champagne, he likes Louis Roederer Cristal 1996 and 2000; for Chinese liquor, he especially likes the 50-year-old Moutai liquor. In his philosophy of life: Our capacity for liquor is limited. Therefore, with such limited capacity, we should drink the best of all.

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1986 年，香港船王包玉剛在釣魚台國賓 館宴請鄧小平一家，鄧小平在品嘗到鮑魚這道 菜時深有感觸地說：「這樣的鮑魚，只有在政 策開放以後才可以吃到。」殊不知，炮製這道 美味鮑魚的廚師，是從楊貫一那裏學到的絕技。 香港一位專欄作家這樣形容品嘗「阿一鮑 魚」的感覺：「未吃已敬畏萬分，一吃為人生 最奇的經歷，吃完四處傳送。」時至今日，楊 貫一一手創辦的富臨飯店，慕名而來的香港富 商、美食家、外國遊客、各國政要數不勝數。 進入正門，映入眼簾的是香港名人王亭之在品 嘗了楊貫一的鮑魚後，即席潑墨揮毫寫下的「阿 一鮑魚，天下第一」。 楊貫一先生踱步走來，富臨酒店的員工們 紛紛尊敬的喊上一聲「一哥」。 實際上， 66 年前，楊貫一也只是一名食肆的清潔工、侍應 生。 每當回憶過去，你就會驚奇的發現，一路 走來，每一步都是正確，每一步都無可辯駁的 指向今天。16 歲那年，楊貫一夢想成為一名 經理，不被人呼來喚去。1960 年，他實現了 這個夢想。然而，楊貫一對自己人生的探索， 並未因此而停下腳步，帶著在餐飲界積累的經 營經驗，他萌生了要做老闆的心願，1974 年， 得償所願，富臨飯店在香港開張。但隨後的 1977 年，富臨的經營日益艱難，甚至面臨了 主廚辭職，人心渙散的尷尬局面。這個時候， 源於對美食的執著以及對事業的負責，楊貫一 毫不猶豫的披掛上陣，親自掌勺為客人烹製菜 肴。 楊貫一一直在探索，如何確立自己的特

For food, health is an eternal fashion. 對於美食，健康就是永不落伍的時尚。

色，在美食遍地的香港，這並不是一件容易的 事。然而他驚喜地發現專門為高級食客服務的 餐館，「鮑、參、翅、肚」等中餐頗受歡迎， 雖然價格不菲，但是食客盈門。鮑魚，很早就 成為中餐裏的美食極品。無論是歷史還是今天， 鮑魚更深層的意味都超越了美食而連帶著權力 和富貴。在香港，某些鮑魚做成的幹鮑甚至可 以成為黃金的象徵，人稱「一口鮑魚，一口金」。 早在西元 6 世紀之前，中國的食鮑魚文化就已 經傳播到了日本和韓國，後來東亞人又把食鮑

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魚習俗傳播給了整個世界。中國古人很早就把 鮑魚列為海味八珍之一，在近代的海味四珍 ( 鮑、海參、魚翅、鮸魚肚 ) 中，鮑更位居首位。 偶然的觸動帶來了長久的思考。楊貫一決 定選取鮑魚進行有計劃的研究和炮製。70 年 代末，他前後購置了價值十幾萬元的鮑魚，進 行有系統的研究。當時在香港，這筆錢幾乎可 以買下一層樓。 前後數年的努力，跨越兩個年代，終於， 在 80 年代初，楊貫一成功試製出風味獨特的 美味鮑魚。使用火力較猛的傳統炭爐，烹飪的 廚具選用的是傳統的傳遞速度較為溫和的砂 鍋。力求將火候控制到最為精准，配料採用老 雞、排骨。這一系列選擇，不管哪一個環節缺 失，都烹飪不出「阿一鮑魚」的味道。看楊先 生烹飪，就像看一場高雅的藝術表演，食材從 生到熟不斷溢出的香味，整個過程都是一種享 受。「不要那個有花的盤子，蛋炒飯已有足夠

Yeung Koon Yat and Ma Renwei are sharing good liquor 楊貫一與馬仁威共享美酒

精彩的顏色，放在白瓷盤裏面看起來更好看。 裝盤好看了，才能更有食欲。」「給我準備幾

食頗為「挑剔」的時尚青年，從萍水相逢成為

美職業模特的身材，馬仁威坦言除了全年 365

個鵪鶉蛋，燕窩盛盤後，需要把鵪鶉蛋去蛋白，

莫逆之交。有趣的是，此後楊貫一開的每一家

日春夏秋冬，風雨不改的大量帶氧運動外，對

獨留蛋黃擺在燕窩上裝飾。」從精挑的食材到

餐廳，馬仁威都是餐廳的第一位買單人，下單

於營養、健康美食的選擇也是秘密所在。擁有

精緻的器皿，每一個細節近乎完美的「苛刻」，

付錢，但並不真正的去點餐開吃，而是將單據

青年人瘦長身段的馬仁威，能穿上 48 號模特

讓阿一鮑魚在香港食客中迅速建立了口碑，吸

留著，以作紀念，那是他們之間特有的默契。

兒型號，一頭天然銀色秀髮，以及一雙淡啡

每念及此，楊貫一都會滿意地微笑：「人

眼，這一切，讓法國當地一份極具品位的雜誌

引了一批又一批高級食客的到來。 「沒有來阿一鮑魚吃過的人不知道，來阿 一鮑魚吃過的人都會喜歡上這裏。」楊貫一自

生最得意的事，就是心願得償。」 心願得償，而又遇到知己，世間美好之事，

邀請他做名男專訪。整個外景拍攝過程，全部 在 Dior Homme 國際公關及宣傳部的全力支持

信地說。「前幾天有幾個美國客人來我們店消

便是如此。聊起對於美食的心得，楊貫一和馬

下完成。愛美食，愛美麗，優雅的生活態度，

費了 23 萬，指定吃澳戶六頭鮑魚，在店裏吃

仁威頻頻共鳴。「其實餐飲行業，想要保持客

讓馬仁威順理成章的成為了 DIOR 贊助的全球

了 5 個，將 15 個打包走。」就像描述一件再

源，除了菜要做得好吃、擺盤要漂亮之外，做

第一位非明星華人企業家。

平常不過的事情，這樣的情節，自 80 年代「阿

出來的菜是否健康十分重要。」「對，裝修不

人對美的追求，是與生俱來的。美食與美

一鮑魚」名揚四海之後，早已不再稀奇。

一定豪華就是最好，色香味俱全的健康飲食才

酒的搭配，向來被食客所注重，無國籍之分。

富臨飯店名聲在外，食客來來往往，留下

是餐廳的靈魂和關鍵。」楊貫一而今八十歲高

楊貫一說：「好菜自然需好酒配。有很多顧客

了許多故事，馬仁威也正是在這裏和楊貫一相

齡依然身體健朗，顯然與他長久以來慣用「健

來我們餐廳吃飯都選擇茅台，特別是宴客，中

逢。1993 年，馬仁威也只是當時眾多慕名而

康」的標準來要求每一道美食密不可分，年齡

國人喜歡將最美好的東西與朋友分享。」馬

來為一品佳餚的普通食客之一，殊不知，對於

永遠不是追求時尚的限制，楊貫一說：「對於

仁威說自己每天都喝一些酒，紅酒喜歡 1982

美好的事物，人是會上癮的，久而久之，馬仁

美食，健康就是永不落伍的時尚。」

年和 1989 年的 Chateau Haut-Brion，法國香

威便和楊貫一熟悉起來。1999 年馬太太懷孕，

因為阿一鮑魚的美味，楊貫一和馬仁威相

檳喜歡 1996 年和 2000 年的 Louis Roederer

楊貫一贈予馬仁威花膠及遼參，給馬太太補身

遇；因為對時尚健康的共鳴，楊貫一和馬仁威

Cristal，中國白酒尤其鍾愛 50 年陳年茅台酒。

之用，這讓馬仁威銘記在心。一切源於美食的

相知。楊貫一「爆料」馬仁威對於美味從不客

因為在他的生活哲學裏：人飲酒是有量的，在

機緣，一位對烹飪要求苛刻的大廚和一位對美

氣，從不控制食量。但這絲毫沒有影響到他媲

僅有的酒量裏，要麼不喝，要喝就喝最好的。

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Living With Good Wines

Dialogue With SBU Vice President Benjamin S. Hsiao

與美酒同行

對話紐約石溪大學副校長蕭守道 Interview/ 採訪：Jing Cheng TRANSLATION/ 譯：Meng Yuan

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"We ever went to Jiuzhaigou Valley and carried a favourite bottle of Spanish red wine with us. When night came, we were sitting by the Haizi and slowly savouring every drop of the red wine. When we went to Huangshan, we also took two bottles of wine with us, one of which was from California, the United States and another was from France. In Huangshan, we were watching the sun in the clouds that mirrored the sky afterglow. We sat down on the stone and drank a toast to each other with the bottomless valley at our foot…."

—Benjamin S. Hsiao, Ph.D. in chemistry, is the Vice President of State University of New York, Stony Brook University

「曾經帶著一瓶我們特別喜歡的西班牙紅酒到達九寨溝，晚上坐在海子邊慢慢品嘗。去黃山時，帶著 兩瓶酒上去，一瓶來自美國加州，一瓶來自法國。在黃山上，看著太陽在雲裏，映射出漫天晚霞，我 們坐在石頭上，舉杯慶祝，下面是深不見底的山谷……」 ——蕭守道 Benjamin S. Hsiao，化學博士，紐約州立大學石溪分校副校長

M

r. Hsiao's house is located in the vicinity of Stony Brook University on Long Island, the state of New York, near the geographic midpoint of Long Island, about 80 km east of Manhattan and 108 km west of Montauk where the environment is particularly quiet with a tortuous path close to the sea and the houses on both sides are hidden in the lush flowers and shrubs. The house has a history of years and its gate and yard are plain. Once you knock the door, a frisky and lovely dog will lie by the door, eagerly greeting the guests.

Stony Brook University is the youngest university in the state of New York which gathers the top researchers in various fields. The Carnegie Foundation has listed Stony Brook University as one of the most outstanding research institutions in United States. The earliest Chinese Nobel Prize winner, Chinese American physicist, ChenNing Franklin Yang has taught in Stony Brook University for a long time. He founded and presided over the institute of theoretical physics of the university. Benjamin S. Hsiao was born in 1958 in Taiwan, and went to United States for study in 1982. He was a former staff scientist in DuPont Company and ever taught for Chemistry Department, Stony Brook University.

Before I know Mr. Hsiao, I have already heard that he loved hospitality and wine collections. On my first visiting, I had indeed appreciated the warm and funny hospitality of Mr. Hsiao's couple and possession of a 2000-bottle private wine cellar. In addition,

the style of indoor decoration, a combination of Chinese and Western culture was also left deep impression with me.

Mr. Hsiao's wife, Lynn Spinnato, is a professional photographer. Almost every room in their house is posted with her works, the themes of which are multifarious, from Africa animals to Long Island sunrise, making limited space expand vast and diverse. They often travel everywhere and always bring the wine with them if possible. "In my opinion, one of the important functions of the wine is for celebration. For example, we have to pack twelve bottles of wine because we would have been in Africa for two weeks", said Mr. Hsiao.

A Toast Is Celebrating Jing Cheng (short for Cheng below) Cheng: When did you start loving tasting and drinking the wine?

Benjamin S. Hsiao (short for Hsiao below): I was born in Taipei. During my university and military service period, I often went out for having a drink with my friends. But at that time, solely for the alcohol component, I seldom drank wine.

Instead, I drank beer, rice liquor and sorghum liquor. In 1982, I went to graduate school in the United States and often went out with my American classmates who are keen on tasting wine that aroused my curiosities as a student from China. Initially, I just drank for contacting American culture and had no idea on the wine.

But later I worked for DuPont Company and often entertained clients. I always need order nice wine,

the price of which was equivalent to the meals for one or two persons. So I started generating interest on the difference between good wine and bad one. This is my starting point that stimulated me to further efforts on understanding wine.

Either drinking or dinning is a state of heart. For example, once tasted delicious food when you were a child, you would remember the flavour forever. But when you were eating without right persons and beautiful scenery, you would lose the favourable impression. Drinking also possessed all same characteristics as eating. Drinking was my behaviour to celebrate and makes my life much more gorgeous, particularly when I need share my success and happiness with others.

Cheng: When did you start collecting wine?

Hsiao: Since twenty years ago. Collecting the wine was accidental because I liked wine very much. In my opinion, wine collection was to celebrate my life and make it much more colourful.

I would drink a toast with my relatives and friends which was just the way for celebration.

Cheng: Is there any specified person that you are eager to drink with when you bought wine?

Hsiao: Yes. I have five children. I would like to open some wines especially for their marriages, maybe when they are 30 years old.

Cheng: What kind of wine do you particularly collect? Just like the woman especially want to buy a bag?

Hsiao: No. I am a person fond of sharing my collections instead of collecting the wine. I also like collecting friendship and wine is the best way

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  Smell lingers longer in the memory than taste  to collect. Material wealth is not that much to me.

Seek the Lost Culture of Wine Cheng: Do you know about much more western culture by wine?

Hsiao: Yes. I can feel the difference on the culture.

In the United States, many people who are keen on tasting the wine will have more emotional involvement and drinking with their hearts. The words they describe the wine are just like a love letter. On the contrary, if they do not like some kind of the wine, they hate it very much. The article that written by the wine taster can inspire the sense of wine drinkers and aroma all can feel.

Colour, flavour, emotional ups and downs can be seen, which lead wine tasters to have a try.

Cheng: What's your opinion on Chinese liquor culture?

Hsiao: It has already a long history for the Chinese liquor culture. Almost a third or even half of the poems written by Li Bai are all about Chinese liquor. Its taste is bad during the lonely sadness although it is the best liquor ever. But when it comes to a delightful gathering, the notvery-good-liquor still tastes particularly tasty.

The ancient people eat, drink, and compose poetry. Poetry brings them much more comfort than drinking alcohol. That is what the main

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purpose of gathering: to celebrate the liquor and food culture. If it is two hundred years ago, you will know the places of good restaurants from the poems you heard. And nowadays you can tell the good food from the queue of table waiting.

You can know the fine food from the thousands expressions of "delicious" by the Americans. It is the same for the liquor culture. The western wine culture has never the end. The resonance led by the words is very powerful. But this situation is not easy to be found in China. People are still searching for this.

Cheng: How Chinese liquor can be accepted by westerners? According to what you said, Chinese liquor should be popularized as Chinese food.

Hsiao: Maybe. Japanese sake is always bounded together with Sushi. A Moutai feast may be held.

My feeling is that Chinese liquor will always be matched well with Chinese food no matter how complex the food is. Good liquor should be popularized and become a high-grade culture and a fashion. For instance, Vodka has already did a good performance and is popular among the young by mixing with cocktail. In my opinion, Chinese liquor must own its own Chinese characteristics and make people feel the history if it want to be well known all over the world.

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每個房間都有蕭守道與夫人的攝影作品 Every room has the photographic works of Benjamin S. Hsiao and his wife

Wine should serve with congratulatory heart. Either drinking or dinning is a state of heart

「我最喜歡酒的地方在於，每一瓶打開都是不同的驚奇」 "The main reason I like wine is that every opened bottle gives me a different surprise"

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蕭守道與夫人分享美酒 Benjamin S. Hsiao and his wife are sharing the wine

蕭先生的家坐落在紐約州長島石溪大學

教石溪大學化學系。

附近，接近長島的地理中點，在曼哈頓以東約

在還未認識蕭先生之前，便聽說他好客並

80 公裏，Montauk 以西約 108 公裏。一條曲折

喜愛藏酒。第一次拜訪，果然見識到校長夫婦

的小路緊挨著大海，兩旁的人家隱藏在茂盛的

熱情風趣的待客之道和藏有 2000 瓶酒的私家

花草灌木間，極為幽靜。房屋有些年頭，門庭

酒窖。除此之外，對他家中西合璧、極富品味

質樸。剛一敲門，一只熱情的狗便趴在門口，

的室內布置也留下極深的印象。

急切地招呼著來客。

蕭先生的太太 Lynn Spinnato , 是位專業

石溪大學是紐約州最年輕的一所大學，聚

攝影師，幾乎每個房間都有她的作品，主題從

集著各領域的頂尖研究人員，卡耐基基金會

非洲動物到長島日出不一而足，將本來有限的

(Carnegie Foundation) 將石溪分校列為全美最

空間拓展得遼闊而多元。他們常常去旅行，而

優秀的研究機構之一，最早的華人諾貝爾獎得

到任何地方去，如果可以，都會帶著酒。他

主、華裔物理學家楊振寧 Chen-Ning Franklin

說，因為酒對我們來說是慶祝的功能，比如我

Yang 曾長期執教於此，創立並主持該校的理

們馬上要去非洲兩個禮拜，已經打箱要帶 12

論物理研究所。蕭守道 1958 年出生於台灣，

瓶酒。

53 度木珍茅台酒 Muzhen Moutai (53% Vol)

1982 年赴美求學，曾任杜邦公司研究員及執

舉杯即庆祝 程靜（以下簡稱程） ：您是從什麽時候開始喜歡飲酒的？

尋找失落的酒文化 程：那麽您通過酒認識了很多西方文化嗎？

蕭守道（以下簡稱蕭） ：我出生在台北。大學和服兵役的時候常跟朋

蕭：是，感受到文化差別。在美國，許多品酒的人更投入感情，用

友一起出去喝酒。那時候很少喝葡萄酒，只是啤酒、米酒、高粱酒。完

心去品。喜歡的話寫得跟情書一樣，不喜歡恨得不得了。品酒師寫得好，

全是為了酒精的成分而已。1982 年我到美國讀研，平時跟美國同學出去，

看的人色香味都可以感受到。最好的文章，把人的 sense inspire 出來，

有人喜歡品酒，作為中國學生，覺得新奇。最初喝酒是為了接觸美國文

色香味感情酸甜苦辣都可以看到，讓人看見也要嘗嘗看。

化，對酒並沒有研究。後來在杜邦公司工作，常出去跟客戶應酬。每吃

程：您怎麽評價中國酒文化？

一頓飯都點一瓶好酒，價格很貴，一瓶酒相當於一兩個人的飯錢，因此

蕭：中國酒歷史相當長，李白一生所作的詩，三分之一到一半都跟

我很好奇好酒和不好的酒區別在哪裏。這是對酒了解的起點。

酒有關。最好的酒，悲傷的時候一個人喝，覺得很難喝；不怎麽好的酒，

喝酒跟飲食都是內心的一個狀態。小時候對某些吃的東西很有好感，

一幫人喝，大家都說這酒真好，喝起來特別有味道。古代人吃東西，喝

一輩子都記得；但是你在吃的時候，人不對，景不對，就吃不出那個好

酒，吟詩作樂，吟詩作樂這個情趣遠比喝酒本身要高。所以大家要聚在

感。所以喝酒和飲食一樣都是一種感覺。飲酒對我來說是個慶祝的行為，

一起，慶祝酒的文化，吃的文化。如果是兩百年前，你問哪裏的菜如何，

是讓生活更加多彩多姿的一個項目。尤其成功的時候，需要分享快樂。

別人會做首詩給你聽，你也覺得好得不得了，一定要去。而現在你問他

程：您收藏酒是從什麽時候開始的？

哪家最好吃，為什麽好，大家只會說，這家隊排得長。妳問美國人一道

蕭：有二十年了。收藏酒是偶然的，因為我很喜歡酒。收藏是為了

菜為什麽好，他有二三十個形容詞告訴你，聽起來覺得相當的好，我也

慶祝我的生活，讓生活多彩多姿。這些酒可以跟所有親戚朋友同飲，是

要去。飲酒也是同樣。在西方飲酒文化一直沒有斷掉，文字上引起共鳴

一種共同慶祝的方式。

的能力相當的強，現在在中國比較不太容易，大家還在重新尋找。

程：有沒有買酒時特別想到一個人，買下時一定要跟他一起喝？ 蕭：有。我有五個小孩，有些好酒我想到小孩結婚時可以打開。大 概他們 30 歲的時候。

程：中國白酒如何能被西方人接受？聽您說的，似乎中國菜能夠推 廣，中國酒也可以。 蕭：可能是。日本的清酒就是跟壽司綁在一起。也許可以辦一台茅

程：您心目中有特別想收藏哪種酒嗎？就像女人特別想買一個包。

台宴。我感覺，中國菜不管怎麽復雜，都最配中國的白酒。所以好酒也

蕭：沒有，我不是收藏酒，我只是喜歡分享收藏的一個人。我喜歡

要推廣，要以文化，尤其是高檔的文化，使它變成一個風尚。比如伏特

收藏友情。酒是收藏友情的好的手段。物質的東西對我並不那麽重要。

加就做得不錯，年輕人喜歡，用在雞尾酒裏。我認為，中國酒要為世界 所熟知，要有中國特色，讓人感覺到你的歷史。

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An

Exploring Trip of for a pair Lady Shoes 一雙女鞋的探索 TEXT/ 文：Elis IMAGE/ 圖：sheme TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

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The name of "sheme" is formed by two English words: she and me. Regarding the origin and meaning of this name, Liu Qiongying says that every woman should have a pair of shoes that is most suitable for herself. "She" is a friend like "me". "She" tells "my" story, and "I" endow "her" with passion and spirit; "she" is part of "my" life. "She" can even bring "me" luck and surprise. This is the meaning of "sheme". "She" is lucky to encounter "me", and makes "me" prouder to have "her".

"She" and "me" encounter, know each other, walk through barrenness as well as prosperity, and our walking power never stops.

Sheme 的名字是由 she（她）和 me（我）兩個單詞組成。關於這個名字的由來和含義，劉瓊英說， 每個女人都應該擁有一雙最適合你的鞋，一個像「我」的朋友一樣的「她」。「她」講述著「我」 的故事，「我」賦予「她」激情和精神；「她」是「我」生活中的一部分，「她」甚至能帶給「我」 幸運和驚喜，這就是 Sheme 的意義：遇到「我」，是「她」的幸運；擁有 「她」，「我」會更 加驕傲。「我」和「她」相逢相知，走過荒蕪，走到繁華，行走的力量未曾中斷。

C

ustomization is the favourite of political leaders and aristocratic ladies. From the French First Lady Carla Bruni to the British Princess Kate Middleton, when attending important occasions, they always wear customized dresses. They especially love international top brands; however, there is exception sometimes.

Since 2013, the dressing of China's First Lady Peng Liyuan has initiated a refreshing and elegant Chinese style, and Chinese domestic brands are attracting more and more attention. Last year, Peng Liyuan made "Exception" famous overnight. This year, at the ceremony for the 50th anniversary of Sino-French diplomatic relations, "sheme" became the focus of the world.

At the Grand Palace "China Night" in Paris, artists and businessmen of both China and France went all out to present a ceremony not only reflecting both national characteristics but also representing the topmost level of both

countries. The entire celebration seemed to be a gorgeous melody blended with the East and the West as well as the ancient and the present. Regarding "national gift", various luxury brands such as Chanel and Dior were chosen by the French government whereas "sheme" was the only brand selected by the Chinese government.

A model of shoes called "Qiushui" (Autumn Tide) was presented to Yves de Gaulle, grandson of Charles de Gaulle. The moment when Yves personally issued an acknowledgement certificate on behalf of the French government to the sheme brand founder Liu Qiongying (Linda), might be envied and admired by many new brands.

Then, who is sheme, and what is the uniqueness of "Qiushui"? sheme is a self-owned high-end brand from Aiminer Group of Chengdu China, and the "Qiushui" shoes are the works of China's chief

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designer Zhang Jinxian (Shine). Anyone who has some knowledge of Chinese classical culture will easily find that the "Qiushui" shoes are blended with Eastern original and Western aesthetics. Eastern style and Western charm are the unique features of sheme. Zhang Jinxian says that the creative inspiration of "Qiushui" comes from the "Hai Shui Jiang Ya" (sea water and overlapped hilltops) pattern. "Hai Shui Jiang Ya" mainly refers to the turbulent wave pattern at the skirt of a Chinese emperor's dragon robe in the Qing Dynasty. Among the waves, mountains or treasures stand tall and upright, meaning endless auspiciousness. To fit the resplendent royal style at the Grand Palace "China Night" in Paris, the gongbi (a careful realist technique in Chinese painting) technique is used to draw the pattern, then, the golden thread is used to embroider the

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pattern stitch by stitch onto the black satin, and the powerful waves are transformed into an eternal beauty to symbolize the eternal peace and prosperity of both China and France. Quite beautiful and fashionable, the shoes indeed deserve the honour of "national gift". sheme's success half lies in her design team. To accomplish a pair of shoes, various designers with different skin colours and different cultural backgrounds gather in Chengdu, China. Friction among opinions, expression of personalities, and blend of thoughts, together bring endless source of creative inspiration. "A different way of thinking and creative concept will create different results. This is also the charm from the collision of international team," says Zhang Jinxian. With degage and humorous Italian designers, rigorous and meticulous

French designers, as well as passionate and romantic Chinese designers…We have to admit that such a "hybrid" team yield huge energy, perfectly combine both Chinese and Western elements, and continuously explore business in the international arena for sheme. sheme started to attract the world's attention in year 2011 when Mrs. Cherie Blair, wife of the former British Prime Minister, visited China's Sichuan Province for the first time. What she wore was a pair of shoes "Made in China"—a pair of blue high-heels that was specially customized for her. This pair of shoes was rushed out overnight after measuring Mrs. Cherie Blair's feet. Wrapped in satin, the uppers were embroidered with two Chinese butterflies that had such meanings as freedom, beauty, and luck. Besides, butterflies emerged from pupas.

Therefore, this pair of shoes was named "metamorphosis". After receiving the gift, Mrs. Cherie Blair did not conceal her surprise and said: "This pair of shoes will be the highest level of my collection." This sounded like a well-designed "endorsement slogan", which was the first "endorsement" by dignitaries for sheme. Subsequently, in 2013 and 2014, sheme attended the Paris Fashion Week and London Fashion Week for several times.

Under the spotlight, sheme is conveying the "walking art" to the world fashion community, and her oriental elegance begins to spread from the catwalks.

The core of a brand is original design.

Chinese original design "learns" from Chinese traditional culture and art. From the very beginning, sheme has established her orientation correctly, which is a clever and dangerous choice. Such Chinese elements as the cornice and eave of classical architecture, gorgeous and prosperous peony, and Tibetanstyled coloured lines, are integrated into various lady shoes through such techniques as embroidery, manual beading, and sewing, and are coupled with Western shoe design. In such a combination, how to balance oriental elements and Western specialities, is an eternal topic.

定制，政要名媛們的「寵兒」。從法國第一夫人卡拉·布呂尼到英國王妃凱特· 米德爾頓，她們在出席重要場合時，身上的穿戴歷來都是私人定制，她們尤其鍾愛國 際大牌，不過，也不是沒有例外。自 2013 以來，中國第一夫人彭麗媛穿出了一股清 新典雅的中國風，中國本土品牌越來越受到矚目。去年，彭麗媛讓「例外」一舉成名， 而今年，中法建交 50 周年慶典上，鎖定目光的則是「Sheme」。 華麗的巴黎大皇宮「中國之夜」，中法雙方的藝術工作者和工商界人士極盡所能 呈現了一台既體現雙方民族特色、又代表國內最高水準的盛典作為獻禮，整場慶典仿 佛一支橫貫東西、古今交融的華麗樂章。在「國禮」的選擇上，Chanel、Dior 等一眾 奢侈品牌被法方選中，唯一被中方選擇的是 Sheme。一款名為「秋水」的鞋款被送 給了戴高樂之孫 Yves de Gaulle。當 Yves 代表法國政府親自頒發感謝證書給 Sheme 品牌創始人劉瓊英（Linda）的那刻，不知羨煞了多少新生代品牌。 Sheme 是誰？「秋水」又有什麼獨特之處？ Sheme 是來自中國成都艾民國際自創的一個高端品牌，「秋水」鞋款是中國首 席設計師張金弦（Shine）的作品。 但凡對中國古典文化有所瞭解，我們不難從「秋 水」鞋款上看到東方原創和西方美學融合的痕跡，東情西韻也正是 Sheme 的獨特面貌。 張金弦說，「秋水」的創意靈感來自於「海水江涯」。「海水江涯」多指中國清代皇 帝龍袍邊襟處波濤翻滾的水浪，水浪之上，又立有山石寶物，具有綿延不斷的吉祥之 意。為契合巴黎大皇宮中國之夜金碧輝煌的皇家氣派，以工筆描繪圖案，再以絲絲金 縷一針一線繡於黑色緞面上，將極具震撼力的濤濤巨浪凝固為永恆之美，寓意中法兩 國國泰民安、萬世升平，美輪美奐又頗具時尚氣質。被作為「國禮」的確無可厚非。 Sheme 的成功，有一半要歸功於它的設計團隊。因為一雙鞋子，不同膚色，不 同文化背景的設計師們相逢在中國成都。 觀點的摩擦、 個性的表達和思維的交融， 帶來的是一股富有創造性的靈感源泉。「不同的思維方式和創作理念演繹出不一樣的 結果。這也是國際化團隊碰撞的魅力所在。 」張金弦說 。 義大利設計師的隨性幽默、 法國設計師的嚴謹細緻，中國設計師的激情浪漫……不得不承認，這樣一支「混血」 團隊，產生出來的能量是巨大的，中西結合，為 Sheme 踏上國際舞臺開疆拓土。 Sheme 最先受到矚目是在 2011 年，英國前首相夫人切麗·布雷爾首次到訪中 國四川的時候。當時，切麗·布雷爾腳下穿的正是「中國製造」——一雙專門為她定 制的藍色高跟鞋。這雙鞋是前一天 Sheme 為切麗 ·布雷爾量足之後連夜趕制的，鞋 面以綢緞包裹，採用蜀繡工藝，繡上了兩隻包含自由、美麗、緣分等寓意的中國蝴蝶， 因為蝴蝶還有破繭而出的含義，因此這雙女鞋被命名為「蛻變」。收到禮物後切麗 · 布雷爾毫不掩飾內心的驚喜，道出：「這雙鞋將成為我最高級別的收藏品」，聽起來 就像是一句精心設計的「代言詞」，這是第一次有政要名流為 Sheme「月臺」。 隨後， 2013 年 - 2014 年，Sheme 幾度輾轉于巴黎時裝周和倫敦時裝周，鎂光燈下，Sheme 向世界時尚界傳達著「行走的藝術」，東方的優雅氣質開始從 T 臺上蔓延。 品牌的核心是原創設計， 中國原創設計「取經」于中國傳統文化藝術， 從一開 始，Sheme 就抓准了自己的定位，這是一個聰明而危險的選擇。古典建築的飛簷翹角、 大氣富貴的牡丹、具有藏式風情的彩色線條等中國元素，通過蜀繡，手工串珠，縫製 等方式加入到女鞋中，而鞋款設計又追求西方的味道，如何平衡東方元素和西方特色， 是一道永恆的課題。

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Knife of a Wine Lover 愛酒人的刀

TEXT/ 文：Towerman Guo IMAGE/ 圖：Imagine China TRANSLATION/ 譯：Grace Liu

Both wine and corkscrew, such as oriental Moutai, western Cognac, and Laguiole knife, are the art of time sculpture and demonstrate their classic charms after the exquisite sculpture and brewing.

Laguiole knife is regarded as the French national knife; it gained its reputation within the corkscrew's brands, and won the fame immediately after it appeared in the world. Adhering to handmade craft even under the impact of mechanical civilization, every artisan devoted their devotion and persistence to the traditional technology and quality of Laguiole knife, and endowed hundreds of years with new meaning.

Laguiole knife is full of peace and art but without any damage or threat.

Known as the French national "horn and steel passport" loved by knife lovers, Laguiole is a knife that crosses time and space. 無論是美酒還是酒刀，它們都是時光雕刻的藝術品，在精緻細膩的醞 釀與雕琢中，散發經典的魔力，譬如東方的茅台，西方的幹邑，又譬如 Laguiole 刀。 作為法國國刀，Laguiole 刀在酒刀的江湖裡名滿天下，一問世便驚豔 四座，在機械文明的衝擊中始終秉承手工製作，每一位匠師對 Laguiole 刀工藝與品質的虔誠與守望，為數百年光陰賦予了新的含義。 它沒有傷害力與威脅性，滿載和平與藝術，被譽為法蘭西民族「牛角 加鋼鐵的護照」，為樂刀人所鍾愛。一刀在手，跨越時空。

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The Art of Time

Eternal Legend

The name of the corkscrew derived from its origin—Laguiole Town. Located in Aveyron Aubrac of southern France, Laguiole Town was developed from a village. In the 18th century, located in the middle of the ancient plateau and mountain, Aubrac was a village with idyllic and pastoral scene.

Every winter, most local men worked as shepherd or logger in Spain's Catalonia region. Some of them brought the Spanish Navaja knife home. A genius knifesmith named Calmels came up with the idea of combining the features of "Navaja" and local "Capucha-dou", and then designed a folding knife equipped with slightly curved shape, sharp blade, and horn or hardwood handle. He put on a cork screwdriver that made the world-renowned corkscrew, and the unique and legendary making technology of this knife had been handed down since then.

To adapt to the need of shepherd in Aubrac, many improvements had been made by local craftsmen through using high-quality steel, selecting finest wood, bullhorn or even ivory for the handle, and making the shape of knife more exquisite.

Since the 1880s, Laguiole became famous overnight and prevailed in that age. It gained a large number of orders at the time when industrial revolution swept the European continent and the trend of mechanical civilization came into every aspect of human life.

However, the peaceful town Laguiole refused to use machines in production and life.

The people insisted on the traditional handmade craft. All processes of each Laguiole knife, from designing, cutting, and carving, to planing and shaping, were completed by the same craftsman, and every detail embodied the inspiration, skills and even the temperament of the artisan. The charm of knife and the character of its creator were perfectly combined together to fascinate people.

This is the art of colliding and blending with time. The insistence on handmade technology is undoubtedly to cherish time and life. In the long history of handmade craft, the craftsman with inspiration enabled the Laguiole knife to possess unique expression and surging vitality, to fit the pulse and heartbeat of history, and to be passed on from generation to generation for hundreds of years.

Perhaps every wine lover wishes to have their own Laguiole knife.

It reveals all its charm once it touches the wine under natural cork: the wild bullhorn handle, the quenching steel, as well as the current reliability and modesty that derived from the past valiant and heroic bearing, all tell those beautiful and eternal legends behind.

You will find a logo of bee flapping wings on the knife, which is the royal stamp given by Napoleon. According to legend, one day Napoleon and his army passed by Aubrac. He was very fond of the delicate and sharp Laguiole knife presented by the local people and was moved by the local valour people. Therefore, a bee was engraved on the Laguiole knife at the behest of Napoleon, as a symbol of brave men. The logo has been used since then, and demonstrates the heroic charm in the subsequent years.

On the Laguiole knife handle, there is a sign of cross set by six copper dots, which is a witness for the faith of ancient shepherd. In the late 19th century, it would take more than ten days for shepherd to drive the herd of cattle across the Aubrac highland and arrive in new pasture. A mobile altar was made by inserting the Laguiole knife on a piece of bread, and the shepherd could pray in front of the cross for blessing their safe arrival.

In the eyes of Laguiole Town residents, the blade is a symbol of water and the handle is a symbol of soil. Water and soil are two essential elements of human life, and are now concentrated on a knife by artisans' craftsmanship, with perfect harmony.

As the top corkscrew, Laguiole is seen as the glorious French national gift, and presented by French President to each visiting head of foreign government. In addition, the French government will present a Laguiole knife as a commendation to every French soldier serving overseas.

However, according to an ancient custom, the friendship or relationship would be ruined if people present sharp items to each other. Therefore, you must give a coin in return at the time someone gives you a Laguiole knife so as to protect the friendship.

The world's famous Laguiole knife has been enhancing its value and charm by its rich legendary stories. A superior quality Laguiole knife will not fade by the passage of time; on the contrary, it will become wiser and deeper after experiencing together with its holder through a colourful life.

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  All processes of each Laguiole

knife, from designing, cutting, and carving, to planning and shaping were completed by the same craftsman. 

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每一把 Laguiole 刀，從設計、切 割、雕刻，到刨光、成形，完全出自同 一位工匠之手。

時光的藝術 酒刀之名源自其產地——小鎮 Laguiole。該鎮坐落於法國南部阿韋 龍省奧布瑞克腹地，由村落發展而來。18 世紀的奧布瑞克還處於田園牧 歌當中，村莊零零星星地點綴在古老的高原與山脈中間。 每年冬季，當地多數男人均到西班牙卡塔羅尼亞地區作牧羊人或伐

The handle materials of the Laguiole knife include bullhorn and wood Laguiole 刀的刀柄材料有牛角、木材等

木工，部分人帶著西班牙 Navaja 長刀回到家鄉。一位名叫 Calmels 的天 才刀匠迸發靈感，揉合「Navaja 」與本地「Capucha-dou」刀之特色，設 計出可折疊的小刀，刀身略彎，刀刃犀利，刀柄用牛角或硬木，再配上 瓶塞起子，一把今後將享譽世界的酒刀就此誕生，獨特而傳奇的制刀工 藝也開始流傳。 為適應奧布瑞克牧羊人需求，當地工匠作了諸多改進，採用高品質 鋼材，刀柄選用不同的上等木材、牛角甚至象牙，刀型愈加精美。 19 世紀 80 年代起，Laguiole 刀名聲鵲起，盛行一時，大量訂單紛至 遝來，與之伴隨著的，還有席捲歐陸大地的工業革命，機械文明以排山

當地居民向其呈獻一把精美而犀利的 Laguiole 刀，拿破崙愛不釋手，當 地人在戰爭中的驍勇善戰同樣令他感動。他當即授意 Laguiole 刀匠在刀 折處刻上一隻蜜蜂，作為男人勇敢的象徵。這一標誌也自此延續至今， 在悠悠歲月中散發英雄的魅力。

倒海之勢入侵人類生活的每一側面。安寧純樸的 Laguiole 小鎮，卻拒絕

在 Laguiole 刀柄上，你還能看到六個銅點鑲嵌而成的十字形，這是

冷冰冰的機器進入他們的生產與生活，篤定地奉行和延續古老的手工製

牧羊人古老信仰的見證。19 世紀末期，牧羊人計畫趕著牛群穿越奧布瑞

作。每一把 Laguiole 刀，從設計、切割、雕刻，到刨光、成形，完全出

克廣袤的高地去往新的草場，必需歷經十幾天的長途跋涉。途中，只要

自同一位工匠之手，每一處細節無不凝聚著工匠的靈感、技藝乃至脾性，

將 Laguiole 刀豎在一片麵包上，一個移動的祭壇即刻形成，牧羊人便可

刀的神韻與人的品性水乳交融，令人心醉。

面對刀柄上的十字祈禱，讓全能的上帝保佑他們平安抵達目的地。

這是一項與時光交融碰撞的藝術，每一位工匠對手工工藝的堅持，

在 Laguiole 小鎮居民眼中，刀刃象徵著水，刀柄象徵著土壤。水與

無疑是對時光與生命的珍視。在細工慢活的悠長歲月裡，代代能工巧匠

土，這兩個人類賴以生存的要素濃縮在一把折刀之上，經由工匠的精湛

將靈感賦予其中，讓每一把 Laguiole 刀都擁有獨特的表情與澎湃的活力，

工藝，渾然天成於一體。

契合著歷史的脈搏與心跳，幾百年來世代相傳。

作為酒刀中的極品，Laguiole 刀也成為法國光榮的國禮，法國總統 將其送與每位到訪的外國政府首腦。此外，每位在海外服役的法國軍人

不老的傳說

都將獲得一把政府贈送的 Laguiole 小刀，以示表彰。 不過，根據一種古老的風俗，所有鋒利的東西均不能送人，否則

或許每一個愛酒人，都希望擁有一把屬於自己的 Laguiole 刀。當它

將切斷送刀人與收刀人之間的友誼或愛情。因此，若有人送給你一把

與橡木塞接觸的那一剎那，所有的魅力盡顯無疑：野牛角的刀柄，淬過

Laguiole 小刀，你一定不要忘記回贈一枚硬幣，這樣才不會割斷兩個人

火的鋼材，曾經的英姿颯爽化作如今的沉穩內斂，靜靜地訴說背後那些

的友誼。

美麗而不老的傳說。 拿起 Laguiole 刀仔細端看，你會發現其刀折處有一隻振翅的蜜蜂標 誌，這是拿破崙所賜的皇家印記。據傳，一日拿破崙率軍途徑奧布瑞克，

名滿天下的 Laguiole 刀，其價值與魅力，也因濃郁的傳奇色彩而提 升。一把品質上乘的 Laguiole 小刀，不會因光陰的流逝而褪去風采，反 而因與持有人一同經歷豐富的人生，而變得睿智而深沉。

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s ig n i f ican c e of

TEXT/ 文：Oldhou&Kangsheng IMAGE/ 圖：北京墨者文化 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

尋找的意義

Due to inextricable limitations, people, throughout their life, keep searching for the meaning of living and the value of life.

This has long been romantically and profoundly described in ancient oriental philosophy: Do not speak of the ocean to the frog that lives in the well because the narrow living environment has limited it; do not speak of ice to the summer insect that never lives in winter because it cannot see the scene of freeze.

Director Tang Bohua uses the most laborious way to complete the classic story in Zhuangzi: Autumn Floods , and also completes a search in his heart. 由於無法擺脫的局限，人終其一生都在尋找，尋找生活的意義，生命的價值。古老的東 方哲學對此早就有浪漫而深刻的描述：對井裏的蛙不可與它談論關於海的事情，是由於 它的眼界受著狹小居處的局限；對夏天生死的蟲子不可與它談論關於冰雪的事情，是由 於它的眼界受著時令的制約。 導演湯柏華用最費力的方式演繹了《莊子·秋水》裏的 經典故事，也完成了自己內心的尋求。

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Initial Inspiration Tang Bohua was born in Liuyang, Hunan Province, China—the world's most famous place for producing fireworks.

According to legend, the inventor of fireworks Li Tian was born here, and the fireworks industry had been established long ago. This city was scattered with god temples where the locals would ask for protection from the hazards of their risky craft.

During most of Tang Bohua's childhood, temples were his playground. Just like the art and culture activity centres in cities, temples were the most bustling places in rural areas, and often held various sacrifice activities. He was immersed in a world filled with traditional imagery of ancient sutra, fascinating Chinesestyled "fairy tales", and colourful murals—a world that aroused his childhood imagination.

There were no words to describe this world. It often appeared in Tang Bohua's dreams. It looked like another world and appeared when Tang Bohua was looking at the stars and being in a daze. It looked like he was falling into the sky. Even horrible, he did not know how big the world was, or what that distant place was. His imagination tried hard to shake off the real world and the limits of knowledge.

Ancient Wisdom Everything has its inevitable limitations.

This has long been romantically and profoundly described in ancient oriental philosophy: "Do not speak of the ocean to the frog that lives in the well because the narrow living environment has limited it; do not speak of ice to the summer insect that never lives in winter because it cannot see the scene of freeze." These were the classic words from Zhuangzi: Autumn Floods.

Immersed in the folk culture since childhood, Tang Bohua systematically studied traditional classics such as Zhuangzi and the traditional art when growing up, and naturally pieced out his childhood memories of folk customs. With pictures of another distant world emerging from time to time and more mature consideration, all questions were led to the relation between man and nature: For man, how to survive in this relation?

The oriental wisdom about the subtle experience of the world gave Tang Bohua the

most touching enlightenment. When knowing that summer insects might have never seen ice, Tang Bohua suddenly found a certain resonance and felt that those summer insects were just like himself: full of confusion for the vast world and life.

"Based on these experiences, I express my experiences in animation", said Tang Bohua.

Significance of Search Due to inextricable limitations, people, throughout their life, keep searching for the meaning of living and the value of life.

Near the vast South China Sea came "The Country of Summer Insects": Wisps of smoke rose and the attics with red beams and green tiles were gradually unveiled in an unadorned background tone; due to the decorous style of painting, the general in armour and the strong white horse seemed sluggish.

People who lived in the Country of Summer Insects only had three quarters of life, being born in spring and dead in autumn.

According to a record in their historical books, "Ice was the most precious thing in the world." However, nobody had seen ice. A general, a Hercules, and Mr. Ink started their journey of looking for ice. They gone through hardships, found a magical wood, built a huge ship, conquered "Wuchang (impermanence)", broke through the endless "blue desert", and fought with gods of wind, rain, thunder, and lightning. Finally they found that they were back to their starting point. At that time, the Country of Summer Insects was full of ice and snow but all people were absent—In fact, their country did have "ice"; unfortunately, all people had been frozen to death before they saw ice.

The story began slowly in rapid drum beats. Without any dialogue, all episodes were prompted by Chinese and English subtitles written by ink brush. Folk drum music and local opera were used as background music.

Coupled with a mystery and solemn sense of religion as well as a strong, profound, and unsophisticated Dunhuang flavour, the sad story gave a primitive life power. The characters in the animated film were brave and willing to explore the buzz of life, but their life lasted just three seasons, which was their ultimate limit. In front of the world,

these explorations and fleeting lives were just a drop in the ocean.

Let Time Decide 17 minutes is the length of the story and 20 tons is the weight of the film. This animated film was entirely made of handmade drawings frame by frame on more than 10,000 gypsum boards. Tang Bohua thought that the Dunhuang mural-like texture was the most suitable for the story temperament. If you observe carefully, you might faintly see many physical pits from the scene. These pits are the pores on the surface of gypsum boards.

"With the help of some workers, all gypsum boards were crafted by our team.

They were not produced all at once. Some were produced in summer while some were produced in winter. The sizes and shapes of many final boards were somehow irregular.

Sometimes the boards cracked in the drawing process but we decided to keep them to present the most primitive state in the film."

Expressed through Dunhuang murals, this film was the outcome of two years of meticulous work, which was far beyond the expected time and expenditure. Inevitably, in the process, some people might not understand our manners; however, what was important was that, facing other people's doubts, Tang Bohua knew what he exactly wants: "Nowadays, what the society most needs is an attitude of pursuing our cause.

Many people are seeking quick success and instant benefits, without the slightest patience for appreciation. Various phenomena of this age suggest that we must be fast, innovative, and internationalized. I don't think anyone can clearly explain what is innovation or internationalization. What we know is just 'fast'."

There are some things that you cannot decide for time. As a man who loves a drink, Tang Bohua obviously has learned the significance of complicated traditional technique from the brewing process. "In the long production cycle, after numerous processes, and in tune with the solar terms of four seasons, the ancients had a very delicate experience of taking the correct actions accordingly in various time points. These practices became their experience. Therefore,

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every process was controlled within the optimum range because either overdone or undone was unacceptable." Tang Bohua said: "We should inherit the core spirit in Chinese culture, and allow the quality to demonstrate itself slowly over time, just like the mellow, rich, and balanced Moutai liquor with enduring fragrance and endless aftertaste."

In today's industrialization era, efficiency means money. Director Tang Bohua and his team used the most time-consuming and laborious way to complete the story about search. This seemed to be more an exploration for the director's own ideals, feelings, and values than a process of competing with time.

Wonderful Encounter "Oriental philosophies have commonality.

I believe that the consideration about the relation between man and the world might be a common confusion of human."

Tang Bohua said: "Everyone has a different understanding. The Country of Summer Insects tells an exploration of hoping to break through the limitations of life. In addition to the exploration in action, more explorations are carried out in mind, and the final answer and result, actually, may be right beside you."

So far, The Country of Summer Insects has been nominated for five international film festivals. When it was nominated for the International Short Film Festival Oberhausen in Germany, the film festival staff wrote an e-mail to Tang Bohua when publicizing this film. Regarding the words "Do not speak of ice to summer insects", the staff thought there should be a better translation. As a result, they found that these words were exactly extracted from Zhuangzi translated

by Westerner. In fact, Tang Bohua had never mentioned that this story was derived from Zhuangzi. It was like an agreed encounter and there was no gap between people in terms of the understanding about life and the significance of search.

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最初的靈感 湯柏華的故鄉在中國湖南瀏陽，這里是世 界上做煙花最出名的地方。 相傳煙花的發明者李畋就誕生於此，煙花 爆竹在當地很早就形成了產業。煙花的製作總

想像力便在此蕩漾。 這個無法描述的世界，會時常在湯柏華的

放神仙的廟宇是當地最常見的建築。

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自然而然的把兒時關於民俗的記憶串通起來。

幼的湯柏華不禁迷惑：這個世界究竟有多大？

另一個遙遠世界的畫面不時浮現，促使他更成

那遙不可及的地方究竟是什麼？想像力也在極

熟的思考，所有的追問都指向人與自然的關係：

力的掙脫現實世界和知識的局限。

人在這個關係中究竟該怎麼生存？ 東方智慧對世界的微妙體驗給了湯柏華最

古老的智慧

湯柏華大部分的童年時光在廟宇度過。就

世間萬物總有其無可避免的局限，古老的

像城市裏的藝術文化活動中心，廟宇是農村最

東方哲學早就有浪漫而深刻的描述：「井蛙不

熱鬧的地方，經常有各種廟祝祭祀活動。掌握

可以語於海者，拘於虛也；夏蟲不可以語於冰

傳統手工藝的師傅們做塑像，畫壁畫，吹拉彈

者，篤于時也。」這句《莊子·秋水》裏的經

唱，老人們樂此不疲的講述一個個從上輩聽來

典語句，大意指：對井裏的蛙不可與它談論關

的神怪故事，勾心撓魂情節猶如精神糖果成為

於海的事情，是由於它的眼界受著狹小居處的

孩童們無法抵禦的誘惑，這些中式的「童話故

局限；對夏天生死的蟲子不可與它談論關於冰

事」塑造了一個難以言形的奇妙世界，幼年的

雪的事情，是由於它的眼界受著時令的制約。

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對傳統經典如《莊子》及傳統藝術的系統學習，

夢裏出現。仰望浩瀚星空，面對蒼茫世界，年

是伴隨著未知的危險，出於安全生產的祈求， 當地人習慣於把命運寄託神仙庇佑，所以，供

從小浸淫在民俗文化中的湯柏華，長大後

動人的啟示。知道夏蟲可能從沒見過冰的時候， 湯柏華突然找到了某種共鳴，覺得那些夏蟲就 像自己一樣，充滿了對蒼茫世界和生命的困惑。 「基於這些體會，我想用動畫這種方式來 表達我的體驗。」湯柏華說。

尋找的意義 由於無法擺脫的局限，人終其一生都在尋 找，尋找生活的意義，生命的價值。

畫在石膏板上的《夏蟲國》手繪原稿 Original hand-painted manuscript (on gypsum boards) of "The Country of Summer Insects"

量。正如片中的人物，他們勇敢，不斷探尋心

經無數道工序，順合四季的時節，什麼時間點

中對生命的困惑。但他們只有三個季度的生命，

做什麼事，古人有十分細膩的體驗，這些體驗

這是他們的終極局限。在世界面前，這些探尋，

變成經驗，任何工序都控制到最佳的程度，過

這些彈指一瞬的生命，都如滄海一粟。

了與不及都不好。」湯柏華說：「我們應該像 茅台這樣傳承中國文化最核心的精神，讓品質

讓時間做主

隨時間慢慢浮現，醇正豐富、不偏不倚、曆久 彌香、回味無窮。」

17 分鐘，是故事的長度，20 噸重，是它

在效率就是金錢的產業化時代，導演湯柏

的分量。這部動畫片的製作，全部通過手繪一

華和他的團隊用最費時費力的方式完成了這個

幀一幀畫在 1 萬多塊石膏板上。湯柏華覺得從

關於尋找的故事，與其說這是一次與時間較勁

故事本身氣質出發，敦煌壁畫般的質感是最適

的過程，不如說也是導演對自身理想、情懷、

合的。如果你仔細觀察，畫面中還依稀可見物

價值的一次艱難尋找。

理質地的坑坑窪窪，那是石膏板表面的氣孔。 茫茫南海中，「夏蟲國」的登場：渺渺雲

「所有的石膏板都是我們自己找工人來製

煙升起，古拙的背景色調裏，紅梁綠瓦的閣樓

作，石膏板也不是一下子全部做完，有夏天做

漸次鋪開；穿著鎧甲的將軍和體格矯健的白馬，

的，也有冬天做的，最後板面的尺寸和形狀也

因為畫風厚重而顯得行動遲緩。夏蟲國國民只

有很多不規整的地方，有些在繪製過程中摔裂

有三季度生命，春生秋死。他們的史書記載著，

了，但我們把這些極具手工感的東西保留了下

冰是這個世界上最珍貴的東西，可誰也沒見過。

來，把最原始的狀態呈現在片子裏面。」

奇妙的相遇 「東方哲學有共通性 , 我相信關於人與世 界關係的思考應該是人類共同的困惑。」 湯柏華說：「每個人都會有不同的理解， 夏蟲國講的是祈望突破生命局限性的尋找，除 了行動上的尋找外，更多的是內心的尋求，可

將軍、力士、墨斗先生三個人，於是踏上尋冰

採用敦煌壁畫的表現方式，歷經兩年，嚴

之旅。他們歷盡磨難，尋到神木，造成大船，

重超支超時。過程中難免有不理解的聲音，重

戰勝「無常」，突圍了茫茫無際的「藍色沙漠」，

要的是，面對質疑，湯柏華內心清楚自己要的

到目前為止，《夏蟲國》已入圍了 5 個國

和風雨雷電四神搏鬥，最後卻發現，回到了原

是什麼：「現在特別缺的一種做事情的態度，

際電影節。入圍德國奧伯豪森電影節後，電影

點。此時，夏蟲國已是漫天雪花，卻空無一人

大家一味求快，沒有絲毫耐心去體味。這個時

節在做宣傳時主動給湯柏華寫過一封郵件。關

——夏蟲國本來就有「冰」，只是在看見冰之

代種種現象都在暗示，我們要快，要創新，要

於「夏蟲不可語冰」這段文字，電影節的工作

前，國民已經凍死。在急促的鼓點中緩緩開始，

國際化，我想沒有人能解說得清楚什麼才是創

人員覺得應該有更好的翻譯，結果打開一看是

沒有對白，所有的情節靠毛筆書寫的中英文字

新，什麼是國際化，剩下的只有『快』。」

西方人對《莊子》的完整翻譯，實際上湯柏華

能最後答案的結果就一直在自己身邊。」

幕提示，民間鼓樂和地方戲曲作為背景樂，營

有些事情你不能替時間做主。作為一個愛

從未提過這個故事取材自《莊子》——猶如早

造的宗教感神秘肅穆，濃濃的敦煌味道厚重而

小酌的人，湯柏華顯然從美酒的釀造中領悟到

就約定的相遇，關於生命的理解，關於尋找的

古樸，在悲涼的故事裏給人一種原始的生命力

傳統工藝繁複的意義。「漫長的製作週期，歷

意義，顯然我們沒有距離。

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Flying With 帶梦想去遨遊

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TEXT/ 文：Konzen, Towerman TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

"Earth is the cradle of humanity, but one cannot remain in the cradle forever."

—By Konstantin Tsiolkovsky (Russia), one of the founders for modern aerospace technology 「地球是人類的搖籃。但是人類不能永遠生活在搖籃裡。」 ——現代航天技術的奠基人之一康斯坦丁·齊奧爾科夫斯 基（俄國）

F

lying is undoubtedly the eternal original impulse in the collective consciousness of human. In the long years, mankind has been diligently exploring how to get rid of the earth gravity and realize the dream of flying and rising.

After the space shuttle and spacecraft were invented, mankind can finally fly up to the sky through mechanical power, survey in vacuum condition the charming universe sky, and look at the bright Milky Way as well as the earth outline. In the 21st century, the concept of private space tourism emerges. Such an unprecedented sensory excitement instantly attracts the attention of the world. Almost all those who struggle for their dreams would like to add such a stunning and longcherished travel of human to their own life memoirs.

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A View Out of This World In 2001, the Russian Federal Space Agency, the world's only governmental agency that provides orbital sightseeing flight, took the American merchant Dennis Tito into space, making him the first space civilian visitor in human history. This flight cost Dennis Tito 20 million USD. After that, without hesitation, the South African millionaire Mark Shuttleworth and the American Gregory Olsen successively paid equally high prices for their dreams and became the world's second and third space tourist.

After eight days of space travel, the 29-year-old South African millionaire Mark Shuttleworth successfully returned to the earth and described his exciting journey: "The earth is really round. It is blue and very beautiful. I was very fortunate to experience the space. Looking at some things from space, I found that life was so short and the world was so small. Therefore, after I return to the earth, I think I should carry out more positive work for human and the world."

In fact, as early as in 1965, Alexei Leonov from the former Soviet Union had successfully implemented the space extravehicular activity in the history and became the world's first astronaut to carry out a spacewalk.

He recalled: "After walking out the spacecraft, I reported to the ground that human beings were able to live and work in space. It was a great silence, so vast and deep that I began to hear my heartbeat. There were stars all around me, much more and brighter than I saw on the earth. Through my headphones, a radio announcer said that a Soviet astronaut was walking in space. I thought who this astronaut was. After a good while, I finally realized that the one he mentioned was me!"

Perhaps, this is the significance of space travel for life. Beyond human limits, with the body endowed by the earth, we get rid of the earth's embrace, appreciate this mysterious blue planet in an unprecedented perspective, and feel the complex significance of life that is both great and insignificant in the vast space that is often seen from the earth by us.

Dream of Flying However, with a high cost of 20 million USD, space tourism is affordable only for a few multimillionaires. Therefore, reducing the cost is the key to expanding the market of space tourism. Some commercial space exploration companies such as SpaceX

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established by Elon Musk, the Dutch Space Expedition Corporation (SXC), and Virgin Galactic established by Richard Branson, are committed to reducing the price of space travel so as to achieve the space travel dream of ordinary people.

Currently, at least four ways of space tourism are often mentioned, that is, aircraft's parabolic flight, flight at high altitude near space, suborbital flight, and orbital flight.

Strictly speaking, either the parabolic flight or the flight at high altitude near space is not a true space travel, but their technologies are maturer and safer. The parabolic flight allows passengers to experience about half a minute of weightlessness while the high-altitude flight allows passengers to see the curve of

UPSIDE: 馬瑟庫（Mandla Maseko）家族中從來沒有人踏出南非一步，但這名 年輕的小鎮 DJ 明年將搭乘太空飛機上太空。25 歲的馬瑟庫居住在普勒 托利亞附近塵土飛揚的馬波潘尼（Mabopane）地區，他贏得美國 AXE 阿波羅太空學院（AXE Apollo Space Academy）籌辦的比賽，獲得眾 所渴望的席位，預定 2015 年飛行 103 公裏進入太空。 Mandla Maseko, wearing a bright orange Apollo Space Academy

jumpsuit demonstrates how a spacecraft blasts off outside his family home at Soshanguve in Pretoria, South Africa. With a dream and

determination, Mandla Maseko is set to fulfill his ambition to become the first black African to be on a suborbital flight 62 miles (100 km) above the earth in a commercial space plane.

the earth terrain. Their prices are about 5,000 to 10,000 USD. Suborbital flight means to fly near the edge of space at an altitude of about 100 km (100 km is the internationally defined boundary of space). The entire flight will last 1–2 hours, allowing passengers to experience 5–6 minutes of weightlessness and enjoy the fantastic view of the earth. "SpaceShipTwo" of Virgin Galactic (U.K.) provides such a flight that carries six passengers and two pilots, and charges 200,000 USD for each seat. "Lynx Mark II" developed by XCOR Aerospace (U.S.A.) carries only one pilot and one spaceflight participant on each flight, and charges 100,000 USD for each seat.

It is reported that such celebrities as

Justin Bieber, Angelina Jolie, Leonardo DiCaprio, Tom Hanks, UK's Prince Harry, and the British physicist Stephen Hawking have booked such "tickets".

Orbital flight means to take a spacecraft and fly at a speed of 7.8 km per second around the earth along the space orbit at an altitude of 200–400 km. After entering orbit, passengers remain in the microgravity state. They will stay in the space station for 8–12 days, circle the earth 120 times, and participate in various tests. This is the most expensive space tourism project, costing about 20–40 million USD. What the world's first space tourist Denis Tito experienced was such a flight.

Famous British soprano Sarah Brightman is

expected to take the "Soyuz" spacecraft to the International Space Station in 2015 and will become the eighth private passenger sent to the International Space Station by Russia.

The trip to Mars is gradually familiar to people. Expected in 2018, Dennis Tito will launch a space plan named "Inspiration Mars" at a cost of at least one billion USD to provide a complimentary Mars journey for a middle-aged couple. They will take the "Dragon" space capsule customized by Space Exploration Technologies (SpaceX, U.S.A.) for their 501-day Mars journey.

Flying is the eternal original impulse of human. Perhaps, with the progress of science and technology, in the near future, this impulse will become everyone's action.

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飛天，無疑是人類集體意識中亙古不變的

我可以清楚聽到自己的心跳聲。我的上下左右

原始衝動。在漫長的歲月裡，人類一直孜孜探

前後都是星星，比在地面看上去更亮、更多。

索如何能擺脫地心引力的束縛，實現飛行與升

耳機裡電臺播音員說，一名蘇聯太空人正在太

騰的夢想。

空行走。我想，這是誰啊？過了好一陣才反應

當航天飛機、宇宙飛船等偉大的發明創造

過來，他們說的就是我！」

宣告誕生，人類終於可以通過機械動力騰空而

或許，太空遨遊對於生命的意義就在於

起，在真空條件下瞭望旖旎的宇宙星空，遙望

此。超越人類的極限，帶著大地賜予的身體掙

璀璨銀河及地球輪廓。進入 21 世紀，私人太

脫大地的懷抱，以另一種從未有過的角度欣賞

空旅遊概念更是橫空出世，這種從未有過的感

這顆神秘的藍色星球，在我們曾不斷仰望的浩

官刺激，瞬間牽引著全世界的目光，那些為夢

瀚宇宙中感悟生命偉大與渺小並存的複雜意

想奮鬥的人，誰不想在自己的人生回憶錄裏，

義。

加上這樣一次承載著人類夢想的驚世旅行。

飛天的夢想 此景只應天上有 2001 年，世界上唯一一個提供太空軌道

空旅遊成為只有少數巨富才能進行的項目，因

觀光飛行的政府機構——俄羅斯聯邦航天署將

此，降低費用是擴大太空旅遊市場的關鍵。一

美國富商鄧尼斯·蒂托送上太空，讓後者成為

些商業太空探險公司，如 Elon Musk 建立的

人類首位太空平民遊客，他也為此次飛行花費

SpaceX 公司、荷蘭 SXC 太空旅行公司、理

了 2000 萬美元。此後，南非富翁馬克·沙特

查·布蘭森建立的維珍銀河太空探險公司，均

爾沃思、美國人葛列格里·奧爾森相繼毫不猶

致力於降低太空旅行價格，實現普通人的太空

豫的為夢想買單，付出同樣高昂的費用而成為

旅行夢。

全球第二、第三位太空遊客。 在經過八天的太空遨遊後，29 歲的南非 富翁馬克·沙特爾沃思成功返回地球，並向世

目前，常被提及的太空旅遊至少有 4 種途 徑，即飛機的拋物線飛行、接近太空的高空飛 行、亞軌道飛行和軌道飛行。

人回憶了那激動人心的旅程：「地球確實是圓

從嚴格意義上說，拋物線飛行和接近太空

的，是藍色的，非常漂亮。我非常幸運能夠去

的高空飛行都不能算是真正的太空旅行，但技

太空體驗，站在太空看一些事情，才發現生命

術更成熟，安全性高。前者能夠體驗到約半分

的短暫、世界的渺小。當我回到地球以後，覺

鐘的失重感覺，後者能看到地球的地形曲線，

得更應該去做一些對人類、對世界有著正面影

價格約 5000-10000 美元。

響的事情。」

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不過，2000 萬美元的高昂費用，卻讓太

亞軌道飛行指的是，在距離地面大約 100

UPSIDE: 美國 World View 公司宣布，其氦氣球太空遊項目，獲得 美國聯邦航空管理局批準，最早將於 2016 年投入服務。 該項目借助氦氣球，將遊客送至距離地麵 30 公裏的大氣

事實上，前蘇聯人阿列克謝·列昂諾夫於

公里處的太空邊緣飛行（100 公里為國際公認

1965 年便成功實施了航天史上第一次出艙活

的太空邊界）。整個飛行約 1-2 個小時，可以

World View, a company that takes people into near space

動，以太空人的身份成為世界上首位太空行走

體驗 5-6 分鐘的失重，以及觀賞地球的奇異

Aviation Administration for the balloon experiences which

者。

景象。英國維珍銀河航空公司「太空船二號」

層邊緣，人們可以在空中漂浮近 2 小時，俯瞰地球美景。 by balloon, recently received approval from the US Federal are expected to begin in 2016. World View will carry

passengers to the edge of the Earth's atmosphere (30

據他回憶：「出艙後，我向地面報告，人

提供此類飛行，每個座位售價為 20 萬美元，

km above the earth) to take in an unprecedented view of

類是可以在太空中工作生活的！一片靜謐中，

可同時容納 6 名乘客和 2 名駕駛員；由美國

approximately two hours.

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the planet and passengers will be able to remain aloft for

XCOR 航空航天公司研發的「山貓二號」，每個

一直處於微重力狀態。在空間站停留 8-12 天、

2018 年，鄧尼斯·蒂托將開啟一個耗資至少

座位則售價為 10 萬美元，每次搭載一名宇航

環繞地球 120 周、參與各類試驗。這是太空旅

10 億美元、名為「靈感火星」的太空計畫，為

員和一名乘客。

遊最為昂貴的專案，花費約 2000 萬 -4000 萬

一對 50 多歲的夫妻免費提供一次環火星旅行。

美元。

他們將乘坐一艘由美國太空探索技術公司定制

據悉，賈斯汀·比伯、安吉麗娜·朱莉、

的「龍」號載人飛船，度過 501 天的環繞火星

萊昂納多·迪卡普里奧、湯姆·漢克斯、英國

全球首位太空遊客鄧尼斯·蒂托體驗的便

王子哈裡以及英國物理學家斯蒂芬·霍金等名

是此類飛行。英國著名女歌手莎拉·布萊曼則

人已預訂了該類「船票」。

最快可能在 2015 年乘「聯盟號」飛船前往國際

飛天，原本就是人類永恒的鄉愁衝動。或

空間站，她將成為俄羅斯送上國際空間站的第

許，隨著科技的進步，在不久的將來，這種沖

8 位私人乘客。

動會變成每個人的行動。

軌道飛行則指的是，乘飛船以每秒 7.8 公 里的衛星飛行速度，圍繞地球軌道在離地面 200-400 公里的太空軌道飛行。進入軌道後，

之旅。

火星之旅也逐步進入人們視線。預計在

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TEXT/ 文：Konzen Hou IMAGE/ 圖：紫雲軒 TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

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A true teahouse is never a tool of showing off one's wealth.

Instead, it should lead people to forget wealth, fame, and status. It is not a place of amusement built by a merchant but more like a pure dream created by an artist in the earthly world. 真正的茶室從來不是標榜財富的工具，它應該讓人忘掉財 富、名利和地位，它不是商人建造的消費場所，它更像是 藝術家在俗世營造的一個乾淨的夢。

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In China, the connection between tea and philosophy has always been close. The word "Tea" dates back to the Zhou dynasty in 770 BC, illustrating the importance of tea in this country.

Even today, Chinese believe that drinking tea cultivates the virtues of calmness, clarity, simplicity, and moderation. As more and more people drink tea, a variety of teahouses emerge, and people around the world are using their own understanding and culture to practise this ancient and elegant oriental lifestyle.

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Graduated from Central Conservatory of Music in Beijing, JinR always thought about what was a true "Chinese teahouse" during her international travels as a professional musician. After learning and understanding different cultures, she realized that promoting the Chinese culture was the only cause she would pursue. JinR had always loved the concept of the traditional Chinese teahouse as a place to relax, reflect, and converse over a cup of tea. Yet she was never able to find one that fulfilled the spirit of her ideal teahouse concept. So she decided to create her own and started conceiving of the idea for GREEN T. HOUSE. In front of tea, regardless of wealth and rank, everyone is equal. All people can have their own ways in drinking tea: luxurious, economical, complex, simple, or even with no tea bowl. A true teahouse is never a tool of showing off one's wealth. Instead, it should

lead people to forget wealth, fame, and status.

It is not a place of amusement built by a merchant but more like a pure dream created by an artist in the earthly world. In JinR's opinion, "If tea has a spirit, this spirit must be universal love and sharing."

一直以來，茶藝與哲學擁有不可分割的 密切關係。 「茶」字的起源來自西元前 770 年周 朝，足以證明「茶」于中國文化的重要性。 時至今日，中國人仍深信茗茶可培養美 德、平靜心神、清澈思路、倡議返璞歸真的生 活態度及中庸之道。喝茶的人越來越多，各種 各樣的茶室應運而生，面對這種古老而優雅的 東方生活方式，世界各地的人們正在用自己的 理解和文化去實踐它。 音樂學院畢業的錦兒，在世界各地的旅行

演出中，一直在思考什麼是真正意義上的「中 國茶室」，對不同文化的領悟與學習，使她意 識到唯有投身于推廣本國文化，才能真正忠 實於自己的內心與感受。傳統概念上茶室是喝 茶、休閒、思考及交談的場所，但她卻一直找 不到理想的茶室，她決定自己創造一個真正屬 於茶的空間，紫雲軒的創意由此萌發。 茶不分貧賤富貴，在它面前人人平等。它 的好處在於，富有富的喝法，窮有窮的喝法， 既可以繁複也可以簡約。真正的茶室從來不是 標榜自己財富的工具，它應該讓人忘掉財富、 名利和地位，它不是商人建造的消費場所，它 更像是藝術家營造在俗世中一個乾淨的夢。錦 兒覺得：「如果茶可以做得有腔調，這腔調一 定是大愛和分享。」

A large cement house, with an open view and large garden, is simple and contemporary.

With an architectural style of the Warring States period, the pavilion of GREEN T. HOUSE is located by a river in the outskirt of Beijing, China. Its serene and innovative interiors include a large white chimney floating over a long, slim fireplace, communal tables, and a polished white stone and crystal floor. A transparent glass cube with a heated floor appears suspended above ground to provide natural light for the white space beneath. An adjacent thousand square metre Black Mirror Reflection Pool is designed to mirror the sky and encourage contemplation, relaxation, and meditation. Not limited by the inherently dark and small space of traditional Chinese teahouse, and without any inherent concept or model, all traditional furniture, gongdao cup (a tea pitcher that literally means "justice cup"), and purple clay teapot are just means but not aims. JinR said: "I can use various symbols to express a teahouse."

Autumn morning is not necessarily the most beautiful, but is certainly the most suitable for meditation, and our morning tea living starts here. With a perfect combination of culture, history, philosophy, and art, this place not only retains the sense of belonging to the accumulated and profound historical and cultural heritage of the oriental, but also offers a feeling of leisure and serenity in the world's hustle and bustle. Elegant and simple lifestyle as well as the comfortable tea experience is very popular among artists,

local celebrities, and international tourists.

Named as one of the world's hottest new venues by Conde Nast Traveler , GREEN T. HOUSE has always been one of the hottest cuisine destinations in Beijing.

很大的水泥房子，開闊的空間和園林，簡 約而當代。 紫雲軒源于戰國時代建築風格的亭閣位 於中國北京郊外的河畔。內部設計則極盡優雅 且富於創意，飄浮於細長壁爐之上的巨型白色 煙囪、特長餐桌以及水晶石拋光地面。建於建 築物上層茶事茶室的發熱地板，四方如鏡，讓 自然陽光可射進下層的雪白空間。俯視 1,000 平方米的黑石鏡面池中反映的天空，適合冥想 及與自己的對望。不拘禮于中國傳統茶室固有 的暗、小空間。沒有固有的概念和模式，傳統 的傢俱，公道杯，紫砂壺都只是手段而不是目 的，錦兒說：「我可以用各種符號去表達它。」 秋天的早晨不一定是最美的，但卻一定 最令人心明神清，清晨的茶事，就是在這裏開 始。這個文化、歷史、哲學、與藝術的完美結 合的地方 , 既保留了東方人積澱深厚的歷史文 化之歸屬感，又有大隱于世的從容與寧靜。優 雅簡約的生活方式，舒泰的茶藝體驗，深受藝 術家、本地名流和國際旅客歡迎，曾獲旅遊雜 誌《Conde Nast Traveler》評選為「全球最熱 門新餐廳」之一，成為北京最灸手可熱的餐飲 勝地。

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JinR's expectation for the new GREEN T. HOUSE was more than just an expansion of space, but an expansion of the very concept.

JinR believed that a true "Chinese teahouse" must put down "China" first.

Putting down does not mean abandoning identity. Even if we do not emphasize Chinese culture, we are still unable to evade its effect, which is like an inherent cultural birthmark; however, if we overly concern and deliberately express it, we will make it superficial in our narrow self-expression, and close the window for observing other culture classics. The profoundness of history will become our limitations and this is not an effective way out.

"The beauty of Chinese tea lies in its inclusiveness." Chinese culture is just a very distinctive culture among various cultures, but not the only culture. Similarly, Chinese tea should be integrated with all outstanding cultures and expressed in its own way after absorbing the essences of other civilizations.

JinR liked to define the true "Chinese teahouse" through openness and inclusiveness because only such an international perspective of universal love can promote the teahouse to a

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completely new height.

"So is Moutai." JinR said: "When I was a child and my father drank Moutai, he would use chopsticks to dip a little Moutai for me.

At that time, I felt the acridity only but not the mellowness. Now, after visiting many places and understanding the food and wine cultures of many other countries, I look back on Moutai. I think Moutai is not only an excellent masterpiece in the Chinese liquor culture but also an outstanding pioneer masterpiece in the world's drinks."

"Although produced by the Chinese traditional technique, yet it represents a contemporary Chinese face. We need a new attitude, new form, and new way to know it." An artist by nature, everything that JinR has touched has been marked by her distinctive sense of, and appreciation for, beauty and inspiration. Coincidentally, the furniture of Moutai's Australian retail store was designed by GREEN T. HOUSE. Fully following the traditional practice of the Ming and Qing furniture, JinR only made some adjustments on the chairs based on the height of contemporary people, reworking them in transparent and coloured acrylics.

With innovative improvements and full of postmodern sense, these traditional chairs are undoubtedly the most attractive among all furniture. Placed among trees, beside red wall, or in font of a sunny window, these chairs look simple and direct, and will please people at first sight. Using emotion and vision to attract the attention of the world and the

most contemporary way to demonstrate the most excellent traditional culture, GREEN T. HOUSE brings people a fresh feeling.

錦兒對紫雲軒的期望不只停留在空間的拓 展，更是理念的拓展。錦兒覺得真正的「中國 茶室」，先要放下「中國」。 放下並不意味著拋棄身份認同。即使不 強調中國文化，我們也沒有法逃避它對我們的 影響，那就像如影隨行的文化胎記。但我們過 分關注和刻意表達，將會使它流於表面，狹隘 的自我表達，往往會關閉通向觀察其他文化經 典的視窗，歷史的博大精深，將成為我們的局 限，這並不是走出去的有效途徑。 「中國茶的美是因為它的包容性。」中國文 化只是諸多文化中很有特色的一個，並不是唯 一。中國茶亦是如此，它應該融合所有優秀文 化，把其他文明的精髓也放進來，再用中國茶 的形式去表達它。錦兒喜歡用開放與包容去定 義真正的「中國茶室」，因為唯有這種大愛的 國際化視野才能將它推向更高的高度。 「茅台酒亦是如此。」錦兒說：「小時候爸 爸喝茅台酒會拿筷子沾一點放在我嘴裏，當時 不懂得醇香，覺得辣。現在到過很多地方，瞭 解很多其他國家的美食美酒文化，回頭再看茅 台，覺得它不僅是中國酒類文化的優秀作品， 在全世界飲品裏面也是一個出類拔萃的先鋒作 品。」 「雖然是中國傳統工藝釀造，但它代表著

當代中國面孔，我們需要一個嶄新的態度，嶄 新的形式和方式去認識它。」與生俱來的藝術 氣質將她所觸及之事物印上直覺的對美的詮 釋，巧合的是，茅台酒澳洲專賣店的傢俱設計 正是出自紫雲軒。透明的、顏色鮮豔的椅子， 做法完全沿襲傳統明清傢俱，唯一的區別是紫 雲軒用的是透明材質，以及根據現代人的高度 做了更舒適的尺寸修改。這些經過改良的傳 統，充滿穿越般的後現代侵入感，所有的傢俱 裏首先必然會被它吸引。放在綠樹紅牆，陽光 透頂的窗前，一看上去就讓人心生歡喜，簡單 而直接。用情緒和視覺去吸引世界的目光，用 最當代的方式展示最優秀的傳統文化，紫雲軒 給我們帶來耳目一新的感覺。

From music to tea, from tea to food, and from food to design, the multi-faceted JinR and GREEN T. HOUSE are wonderful and colourful.

"Things are linked with each other."

JinR believed that if people work hard on one thing and master the skills, they can understand other things by analogy. The most important for art is to express. After deliberation, you can choose any form to express. Painting, music, or literature is just a means of expression. A cup of elegant tea or a delicate dish can also be a means because the most important art is life. It is this openness and inclusiveness that will lead you to encounter the art of life in GREEN T. HOUSE. 從音樂到茶藝、從茶藝到美食，從美食到 設計，錦兒和紫雲軒的跨界精彩而豐富。 「事情並不都是孤立的。」錦兒覺得在一個 事情上專研了、有感受了，在另外一件事情上 也定能融會貫通。藝術最重要的是表達，是否 有話要說，當你有足夠的思考，你可以選擇任 錦兒 音樂家、藝術家與精於茶道的潮流引導者，也是紫雲軒背 後具有遠見卓識的創建者。 JinR

何一種形式，繪畫，音樂、文字都只是表達手 段的一種，而這些手段也可以是一杯淡雅的 茶，一道精緻的美食，因為最重要的藝術是生

Artist, musician, tea connoisseur, trendsetter, as well as the

活。正是因為這種開放與包容，在紫雲軒，你

behind GREEN T. HOUSE

可以遇見生活的藝術。

multi-faceted founder, owner, visionary, and creative force

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"Moutai Night" for the European Finals of Miss Chinese Pageant

南法「茅台之夜」 68

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中華小姐歐洲區總決賽 TEXT/ 文：Cher Chen TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

T

he 2014 Miss Chinese Cosmos Pageant European Selection Finals were held at Pasino of Aix-enProvence, Southern France on July 27.

Upon the 50th anniversary of SinoFrench diplomatic relations, the European selection of Miss Chinese this year becomes one of the official activities for celebrating the 50th anniversary. After successfully held in such countries as Britain, France, Germany, Portugal, and Spain, the European finals this year were concluded in the beautiful and romantic France. The finals were hosted by Yuchi Lin Jia, famous host of the Phoenix TV and Liu Yi, reporter

residents.

After the wonderful Partouche opening dance kicked off the pageant, participants in evening dress introduced themselves first and made a speech on the "Definition of Beauty". Meanwhile, the backdrop screen was playing the outdoor scene highlights of Provence. Under the spotlight, participants in swimsuit confidently showed their perfect postures. The final highlight part returned to the traditional Chinese culture and participants dressed in Cheongsam to demonstrate the unique charm of oriental ladies. During the pageant, Moutai specially selected four Moutai cocktails to present a

and the classic arts of Europe, and was an encounter between cultures. It was also an encounter between the mellow oriental Moutai and the lively cocktail as well as an encounter between spirits and beauties.

Participants followed the artistic footprint of Van Gogh and CĂŠzanne to experience the Provence and Mediterranean landscapes.

12 contestants from seven European countries participated in the pageant and eventually seven prizes including Miss Internet Popularity, Miss Friendship, Miss Photogenic, Miss Cultural Grace, and Top Three Winners were awarded. Cui Yi (Sissy Cui, No.4) from Hungary won the title of

of the Phoenix CNE channel. Nearly one thousand spectators watched this pageant on the site, including Marc Piton (general coordinator on the French side for the celebrations of the 50th anniversary of Sino-French diplomatic relations), Gao Yan (deputy head of Phoenix Chinese Channel), Zhang Wei (Chinese deputy consul-general in Marseilles, France), Herve Tan (general manager of CAMMY, Moutai's French dealer), Xia Xiaolong (event director of Phoenix TV), Chinese students of Europe, European Chinese, and local French

creative cocktail feast called "Moutai Night" for all distinguished guests, making the Provence summer with blooming lavender more colourful.

According to accounts, "Miss Chinese Cosmos Pageant" is an annual beauty pageant presented by Phoenix Satellite Television and participated by many Chinese young ladies from Asia, Europe, Australia, and the Americas. It has been successfully held for twelve times since 2003. The pageant of this year highlighted the beauty and wisdom of Miss Chinese

"Miss Friendship"; Fuqiu Li (No.9) from Britain won the title of "Miss Photogenic"; Zhong Jingwen (Hana, No.2) from Britain won the title of "Miss Cultural Grace"; Jiao Ting (Eva Chiao, No.3) from France won the title of "Miss Internet Popularity". Zhen Zi (Asia Wretman, No.6) from Sweden won the third place, Fuqiu Li (No.9) from Britain won a runner-up, and finally Liu Zhongqing (MĂŠlissa, No.10) from France was crowned the champion.

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茅台獻上一場創意十足的「茅台之夜」雞尾酒盛宴，甄 選的四款茅台雞尾酒，讓普羅旺斯之夏更多了一份繽紛。

2014 中華小姐環球大賽歐洲區總決賽 , 於 7 月 27 日下午在法國南部普羅旺斯艾克斯小鎮的普 羅旺斯娛樂園隆重舉行。 本次華姐歐洲區選拔恰逢中法建交 50 周年，是中法建交 50 周年慶祝官方活動之一，在英國、 法國、德國、葡萄牙、西班牙等國家成功舉辦後，歐洲區總決賽落幕于美麗浪漫的法國。總決賽由 鳳凰衛視著名主持人尉遲琳嘉和鳳凰衛視駐歐洲記者柳怡主持。中法建交 50 周年慶典委員會法方 總代表馬克 . 畢棟（Marc PITON），鳳凰衛視中文台副台長高雁，中國駐法國馬賽總領事館副總領 事張偉，中國國酒茅台法國公司總經理 Herve TAN 先生，以及鳳凰衛視大型活動製作總監夏小龍以 及歐洲各地華人留學生、華人華僑、法國當地居民等在內的近千名觀眾在場觀看了這場相約美麗的 比賽盛事。 精彩的百多士開場舞拉開了比賽的帷幕，選手們首先身著晚裝進行自我介紹並發表美麗感言， 同時背景大螢幕則播放著普羅旺斯外景拍攝的精彩集錦。聚光燈的照耀下，選手們身著泳裝，自信 地展現了完美身姿。最後的亮點環節則回歸中國傳統文化，選手們身著旗袍向大家展示了東方女性 的獨特魅力。借著中華小姐歐洲總決賽的機會，茅台為大家獻上了一場創意十足的「茅台之夜」雞 尾酒盛宴，特意甄選的四款茅台雞尾酒，讓薰衣草綻放的普羅旺斯之夏更多了一份繽紛。 據瞭解，「中華小姐環球大賽」是由鳳凰衛視主辦，吸引了來自亞洲、歐洲、澳洲和美洲華裔 年輕女性參與的年度選美盛事。自 2003 年第一屆舉辦至今已經成功舉辦了十二屆。本屆賽事重點 突出中華小姐的美麗智慧與歐洲的經典藝術，是一次不同文化的相遇之旅；茅台酒的東方韻味回甘 無窮，遇上活潑熱情雞尾酒，也是一次美酒與佳人的相遇之旅。選手們踏著梵古和塞尚的藝術足跡 體驗了普羅旺斯及地中海風光。來自 7 個歐洲國家的 12 名佳麗在經過角逐後，最終產生了最具網 路人氣獎，友誼小姐，最上鏡小姐，最具文化氣質獎及冠亞季軍 7 個獎項。「友誼小姐」由來自匈 牙利的 4 號佳麗崔伊獲得，「最上鏡小姐」由 9 號的英國選手傅秋莉獲得，「最具文化氣質獎」由 2 號來自英國的鐘婧文獲得，而「最具網路人氣獎」則由 3 號來自法國的焦婷獲得。瑞典的 6 號選 手真子獲得了季軍，英國的 9 號選手傅秋莉獲得了亞軍，最終，冠軍由來自法國的 10 號選手劉中 擎獲得。

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Savouring Column 尋味專欄

Savouring Moutai's

Beauty

品鑒茅台之美

TEXT/ 文：Wang Li TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

Editor's note: How to know, savour, and collect Moutai has always been talked about by people. The related research is even called "Study of Moutai", which becomes an interesting cultural phenomenon.

We specially invited Ms. Wang Li, Chief Engineer of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. to share with us the method and beauty of savouring Moutai. 編者按：如何認識、品味和收藏茅 台酒一直為人們所津津樂道，相關 研究甚至被稱為「茅學」，成為一個 耐人尋味的文化現象。本刊特邀貴 州茅台酒股份有限公司總工程師王 莉，為我們解讀茅台酒的品味之法， 剖析其間的種種妙處。

王莉 貴州茅台酒股份有限公司總工程師 高級工程師 國家白酒評委 Wang Li

Chief Engineer of Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.

Senior engineer and national liquor tasting committeewoman

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MOUTAI Magazine

As the originator of Jiang fragrance liquor, Moutai features elegant, mellow, and multilayered aroma

M

outai is the originator of China's Jiang fragrance liquor. So, first, let's find out what "Jiang fragrance" is.

"Jiang fragrance" is a complex aroma from natural fermentation of organic grains, elegant, mellow, and multilayered. It is different from the aroma of soy sauce or salad dressing. Therefore, the English translation of this aroma into "sauce" is inaccurate. In fact, "Jiang" here is a proper noun and should be used directly in English.

Firstly, the savouring of Moutai starts with inspection. Inspect not only the "colour" but also the "lustre". Against the white background, you can see a slightly yellow hue as well as a pure and clear lustre. The older liquor, the deeper yellow. Aged Moutai will start to develop a clear amber tone, which is the excellent quality achieved by unique making technique.

Secondly, let's enter a very enjoyable process, that is, smell the aroma. Studies show that Moutai contains over 1,000 volatile and semi-volatile components, the most complicated in the world's alcoholic beverages in terms of aromatic components.

Coordinated and balanced, these aromatic components together accomplish Moutai's unique style. In the top notes, the Jiang fragrance is prominent. In the more subtle after notes, you can smell fragrance of flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, and dried plants before giving way to the end note of sourness. With rich and clear layers, this complex aroma is elegant and delicate.

Thirdly, savour the taste. Moutai is a highalcohol spirit. Therefore, the most appropriate way is to sip it slowly so as to savour its unique taste. Slowly sip the liquor. The amount should be just enough to fully coat the tip and blade of your tongue. Feel the slow and gentle movement of the liquor from the tip to the blade of your tongue. Initially, you can feel the sour taste at both sides of your tongue, and then the nutty aroma at the root of your tongue. Older Moutai liquor will have a smoky flavour. As the liquor goes further to your pharynx, you can feel the "koji aroma", which is an important feature of Moutai. It is

a very special and complicated aroma similar to the mixed aroma of fermented grains and flowers.

Now, you can swallow the liquor and a silky smoothness will coat the entire blade of your tongue and your throat. The older liquor, the slower movement on the blade of your tongue, and the mellower when swallowed.

Now you can close your mouth and use your nose to breathe out the liquor aroma.

Then, a delicate and mellow aroma of Moutai will return to your mouth, nasal cavity, and pharynx, which is called "long aftertaste".

Finally, let's smell the empty-cup fragrance. The "empty-cup fragrance" of Moutai is unparalleled. After finishing a cup of Moutai, with aftertaste in mouth, raise the empty cup closer to your nose and hold your breath. You can still feel the complex aroma of koji, flowers, and sourness, with elegant, pleasant, and lingering aftertaste. Even several days after the cup is emptied, you can still feel the lingering aroma of Moutai.

I believe, at this time the image of Moutai has been rooted in your mind. The final step is to determine the "style" based on the comprehensive feeling, which is equivalent to the overall image. As described by the 26 characters on the bottle, the style of Moutai is: "slightly yellow, transparent, elegant, delicate, and mellow, with prominent Jiang fragrance, long aftertaste, and lasting emptycup fragrance". This style is inseparable from the unique high-temperature koji production, seasonal making technique, long-term storage, and careful blending of Moutai.

清澈的光澤，酒越老則越黃。陳年的茅台酒， 更會呈現一種晶瑩的琥珀色澤，這是獨特釀造 工藝造就的優異品質。 其次，便進入非常令人享受的聞香。研 究表明，茅台酒中香氣香味成分是世界酒類中 最複雜的，含有 1,000 多種揮發性或半揮發性 成分，各種芳香氣味的成分平衡協調，成就了 茅台酒的特殊風格。初嗅茅台酒，醬香幽雅 突出，再來深嗅，可以聞到花香、青草香、果 香甜香、幹植物香，直至最後一個部分——酸 香。整體香氣的層次分明而豐富，幽雅而細 膩。 再次是品。茅台酒是高度烈性酒，因此 小口的抿品是最適合的方式，如此才能品出其 中獨特的滋味。入口的時候，應讓舌尖到舌面 佈滿酒液，感受酒液從舌尖到舌面緩慢而柔和 的走動。這時，舌面兩側首先感覺到強烈的酸 味，往舌根走，有了堅果香，酒齡較老的茅台 酒，會令人感受到一絲煙熏味。再到咽部，將 體會到一種舒適的「曲香」。曲香是很特殊的 香味，是茅台酒重要的特徵，它類似於穀物發 酵的香氣，又混合有花香，非常複雜。 到這裏，酒已咽下，如絲綢般柔滑的感覺 充滿整個舌面與咽喉。酒齡越長的酒在舌面上 的運動越慢，咽下去的感覺越柔和。這時可合 上嘴唇，用鼻子呼氣，我們的口腔、鼻腔及咽 部都回蕩著茅台酒細膩醇厚的香氣，我們稱為 「回味悠長」。 最後我們來進行空杯嗅香。茅台酒的「空 杯香」是無與倫比的。一杯飲後，攜口中餘 味，將酒杯移近鼻子，凝神屏氣，可以感受到

茅台是醬香型白酒的鼻祖，因此我們先來 認識下何謂「醬香」。 「醬香」是一種純糧自然發酵形成的複合

曲香、花香和酸香組合而成的複合香氣，幽雅 宜人而悠遠綿長。即使空杯放置數天，仍可感 受到茅台酒香氣的餘韻。

香氣，優雅、醇和、多層次。既區別於醬油的

相信，此時茅台酒的形象已在你心中呼之

「醬」，也區別于沙拉醬的「醬」，所以某些英

欲出。最後一步是綜合起來看「風格」，相當

文翻譯為 sauce 是不精准的，「醬」在這裏事

於整體形象，也就是酒瓶上為人熟知的 26 個

實上是一種專有名詞，可以直譯為「Jiang」。

字：「微黃透明，醬香突出、幽雅細膩、酒體

品味茅台，可以由「看」開始，不光要看

醇厚、回味悠長、空杯留香持久」，這樣的風

「色」，還要看「澤」。在白色背景的襯托下，

格是與茅台酒獨特的高溫制曲、順應四季的釀

酒體微微泛黃，同時呈現一種毫無雜質、晶瑩

酒工藝以及長期貯存和精心勾兌分不開的。

MOUTAI Magazine

73

Alcohol Culture Column 酒事專欄

Historical Imprint on "MOUTAI" 「MOUTAI」裏的歷史聲音 TEXT/ 文：Laura Su TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

T

homas Francis Wade including today's world(1818–1895) was a British renowned distilled liquor brand diplomat, a renowned Kweichow Moutai, greeted sinologist, and the first professor of the world. According to the On the brand label of Kweichow Moutai liquor, Chinese at Cambridge University, prevailing Wade system at that who had lived in China for more time, the spelling of the liquor we can see that the English name is "KWEICHOW than forty years and served as the was "KWEICHOW MOUTAI".

MOUTAI" instead of the literal translation British envoy to China from 1869 On February 11, 1958, the "GUIZHOU MAOTAI". Why? to 1882. He used Roman letters as Chinese government officially

A romanization system created by the the phonetic symbols of Chinese approved the Hanyu Pinyin characters and created the Wade system, which is so far the Briton Wade for Mandarin Chinese has been system, which was a romanization only unmodified bill since the used for more than 140 years and has recorded system for Mandarin Chinese. founding of China. Since then, the wonderful historical sounds in phonetic texts Wade's original intention in Mainland China, the Wade for many personal names, place names, trade was to create this system for system is gradually replaced by foreigners in China to learn the modern Hanyu Pinyin system. marks, and dish names to demonstrate their longChinese. In the first chapter Today, half a century established reputations. of the textbook written by has passed and the image of him, he even pointed out the Kweichow Moutai has been corresponding pronunciation well known in the international respectively in Spanish, French, market. Therefore, the original English, and American English spelling of "KWEICHOW MOUTAI" 在貴州茅台酒的酒標上，我們可以看到「貴州茅台 for the pronunciation of each is allowed to remain in use. 酒」的英譯名為「KWEICHOW MOUTAI」 ，為什麼不 Chinese character. One cannot Besides the Kweichow Moutai 是以中文拼音「Guizhou Maotai」來直譯呢？ help but admire his preciseness liquor, other names with equally and meticulousness. long history also continue to use 一套用於拼寫中文普通話的羅馬拼音系統，由英國人 Since its birth in 1867, the their original Wade spellings. 威妥瑪創建，至今已使用了一百四十多年，在那些人 first version of the Wade system These examples include had been used in China until some place names such as 名、地名、商標名、菜名等註音文字中記錄下精彩的 1913. During late Qing Dynasty Tientsin, Hangchow, and 歷史聲音，昭示著他們的久負盛名。 and early period of the Republic of Kwangtung, and some wellChina, the Wade system that had known Chinese historical been used for half a century was figures, such as Chiang Kai-shek finally refined in 1912 by Herbert and Mencius. Even today, the Allen Giles, a British diplomat to China. Therefore, the Wade system universities that had been well-known in the world before 1949 still was also called the Wade-Giles system and was abbreviated as WG. use the Wade spelling for their names, such as Sun Yat-sen University, It was widely used in personal names, place names, trade Soochow University, Peking University, and Tsinghua University. marks, English standard reference books, and all books about Besides, some words that represent Chinese culture are China published in western countries before it was replaced conventionally translated into the combination of English and Wade by the Pinyin system during 1958 in mainland China.

Pinyin, such as Chinese kung fu, Chingming Festival, and Kung Pao In 1920s, with continued growth in international trades and Chicken. Being widely used, they have become representative symbols cultural exchanges, a large number of Chinese famous brands, of Chinese culture, and are echoing the wonderful historical sounds.

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MOUTAI Magazine

Label of Kweichow Aged Moutai liquor (1989)

Label of Kweichow Feitian Moutai liquor (1966)

1989 年陳年茅台酒酒標

1966 年飛天茅台酒酒標

威妥瑪（1818-1895）是英國外交家和著

1958 年 2 月 11 日，中國政府正式批准

名漢學家，還是劍橋大學首位漢學教授，這位

《現代漢語拼音方案》，這是中國自建國至今

曾在中國生活四十餘年的英國人在 1869 年至

唯一未被修改過的法案。此後，在中國大陸地

1882 年任英國駐華公使。他以羅馬字母為漢

區，威妥瑪拼音系統逐漸被現代漢語拼音所取

字注音，創立威妥瑪式拼音法，這是一套用於

代。

拼寫中文普通話的羅馬拼音系統。

酒在國際市場的形象已經為人們所熟知，所以

在華外國人學習漢語用的。他還在自編教材的

繼續沿用 KWEICHOW MOUTAI 這一拼寫。除

第一章裡，將每個漢字的發音，分別標注出該

了貴州茅台酒，其他同樣具有悠久歷史的一些

漢字相當於西班牙語中的哪個音、法語中的哪

名稱也繼續沿用原來的威妥瑪拼法。

個音、英語中哪個音、美語中哪個音，不得不 令人佩服他的嚴謹與細緻。 威妥瑪（1818-1895）是英國外交家和著名漢學

今天，儘管半個多世紀過去了，貴州茅台

威妥瑪發明中文拼音法的初衷，是為了給

從 1867 年出了第一版後，威妥瑪拼音在

比如一些地名，天津 Tientsin、杭州 Hangchow、廣東 Kwangtung。一些著名的 中國歷史人物，諸如蔣介石 Chiang Kai-shek，

中國一直被用到 1913 年。清末民初，使用了

孟子 Mencius 等。至今，1949 年前已在國際

Wade (1818–1895) was a British diplomat, a

半個多世紀的威妥瑪拼音，最後由 1912 年英

上出名的大學還在延用威妥瑪拼音的校名，如

Chinese at Cambridge University

國駐華外交官翟理斯修訂完成，所以，威妥瑪

中山大學 SUN YAT-SEN UNIVERSITY，其中

拼音也叫威妥瑪 - 翟理斯拼音，簡寫為 WG 威

SUN YAT-SEN 是孫逸仙的威氏拼音；另外還

氏拼音法（Wade-Giles System）拼音。

有蘇州大學 SOOCHOW UNIVERSITY；北京

家，還是劍橋大學首位漢學教授 renowned sinologist, and the first professor of

在 1958 年中國推廣中文拼音方案前，威 妥瑪拼音廣泛被用於人名、地名注音、商標 名、英文標準參考資料以及所有有關中國的書 籍當中。

大學為 PEKING UNIVERSITY；清華大學為 TSINGHUA UNIVERSITY。 另外一些能夠代表中國文化的詞語，以 英文加上威氏拼音的方式，成為約定俗成的

上世紀 20 年代，隨著國際商貿和文化交

英譯名詞，例如功夫為 Chinese Kungfu，清

流日益頻繁，大批當時的中華名牌商品走向世

明節為 Chingming Festival，宮保雞丁則為

界，其中就包括了今天的世界蒸餾酒著名品牌

Kungpao Chicken 等，它們被廣泛使用並成為

貴州茅台酒。按照當時使用的威妥瑪拼音，貴

了中國文化的代表符號，記錄了一段精彩的歷

州茅台酒就是 KWEICHOW MOUTAI。

史聲音。

MOUTAI Magazine

75

Drinking Intellectually Column 文字飲專欄

Gao Luopei, a Man Between Elegance and Vulgarity 雅俗之間高羅佩 TEXT/ 文：Dong Tiezhu TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

D

uring the Anti-Japanese War, Chongqing was a gathering place for gifted scholars and beautiful ladies.

Many love stories with Chiung Yao's "Ji Du Xi Yang Hong" (loosely translated as "After Many Red Sunsets") as the representative, were set in here. In 1943, a couple married here. The wife called Shui Shifang was a new breed of well-born female intellectual at 22; the husband's identity, however, was somewhat complicated. He was a diplomat, but also a scholar, a writer, and a collector proficient in Chinese painting. In Chongqing, he was famous for his enthusiasm for the qin (stringed instrument). At every gathering among friends, he would take the guqin with him, and play the masterpiece "High Mountains and Flowing Water" after several rounds of their drinking. More importantly, this Gao Luopei (1910 - 1967), also called Zhitai (courtesy name), was the Chinese young man from the Netherlands name of Robert Hans van Gulik. He was a Dutch Sinologist, Orientalist, diplomat, called himself Gao Luopei. translator, and novelist. As a Dutch career diplomat, he was proficient in 15 languages, and had been stationed in such places as Surabaya, Batavia, Tokyo, Today, when talking about Chongqing, Washington, New Delhi, Beirut, Damascus, and Kuala Lumpur, Gao Luopei, we usually will serving as a secretary, counsellor, minister, or ambassador. Though a diplomat immediately think of the by profession with smooth career, he made his mark as an amateur Sinologist.

The Dutch understanding of China, to a certain extent, was attributed to his "Celebrated Cases of Judge Dee". contribution of spreading Chinese culture. His detective novel "Celebrated Such thrilling stories as "The Cases of Judge Dee" successfully created "China's Holmes", and was translated Chinese Gold Murders", "The into many foreign languages for publishing, playing an important role in the history of cultural exchanges between China and the world.

Chinese Lake Murders", and "The Morning of the Monkey" are 高羅佩（1910~1967），字芝台，是羅伯特·漢斯·古利克的中文名。高 often told in both China and 羅佩是荷蘭漢學家、東方學家、外交家、翻譯家、小說家。作為荷蘭職業 the West. Besides, he gained his 外交官，他通曉 15 種語言，曾派駐泗水、巴達維亞、東京、重慶、華盛頓、 reputation also through his works 新德里、貝魯特、大馬士革、吉隆玻等地，職務從秘書、參事、公使到大使。 "Sexual Life in Ancient China" and 儘管仕途一帆風順，但流芳後世的卻是他的業餘漢學家的成就，荷蘭人對 中國的瞭解，在一定程度上也應歸功於他對中國文化的傳播。他的偵探小 "Erotic Colour Prints of the Ming 說《大唐狄公案》成功地造成了“中國的福爾摩斯”，並被譯成多種外文 Period". Look at the titles and 出版，在中國與世界文化交流史上留下重重的一筆。 you will know that these books are talking about sex. Both the murder case and sex knowledge seemed to be the unpresentable topics favoured by vulgar people. As a world-renowned Sinology master, did Gao Luopei gain his reputation through such fields that were scorned by serious and mainstream scholars?

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MOUTAI Magazine

In the preface of "Sexual Life in Ancient China", Gao Luopei clearly explained the reasons for his interest in the ancient Chinese sexual life. As a painter and collector, he regarded the erotic colour prints of ancient China that survived from wars as rare artistic materials; as a scholar greatly influenced by the Chinese cultural, he felt sad for Westerners' various misunderstandings about the Chinese culture. Among them, the commonest misunderstanding was that Westerners thought the Chinese were a group of people with sexual perversion. So, through his research, he hoped to "present these rare artistic materials to people as well as correct the outside world's misunderstandings about the ancient Chinese sexual life". For Gao Luopei, this was just the first step to correct the misunderstanding. Although the words of Confucius, Mencius, Laozi, and Zhuangzi were profound, yet they were somewhat too mysterious for ordinary Westerners to understand. The sexual life, however, was a common topic. Even the Westerners who had no interest in Eastern philosophy would be attracted. As long as this door could arouse the Westerners' interest in Chinese culture, it might also enable Westerners to understand China better, and all other misunderstandings would naturally disappear. No wonder the American scholar Tannahill considered this book of Gao Luopei "priceless both in material selection and conception".

Thus, behind Gao Luopei's familiarity with the sexual life was his respect for the Chinese culture and his serious attitude towards life. In 1910, Gao Luopei was born in the Netherlands. He came to the Orient at five and lived in such countries as Indonesia, China, and Japan. He was proficient in some ten languages. Such background naturally made him a Dutch diplomat in the Far East. During World War II, many European diplomats in China were regular visitors of sensual places.

Away from home and amid the war, they had enough reason to indulge. As an expert of sexual practices, Gao Luopei, however,

was very self-disciplined in his privacy life.

Since 1943 when he married Shui Shifang in Chongqing, he had been always accompanied by his wife until his death in 1967.

Some people said that Gao Luopei studied the vulgar affairs but behaved as an elegant man. This was undoubtedly a precise evaluation. The vulgar affairs he studied made him famous and his reputation as an elegant man was respected by people.

What gave Gao Luopei such a good sense of propriety between elegance and vulgarity?

Perhaps it was the guqin which was seldom out of his hands. Qin means prevention. The ancients played the qin to prevent evil from their righteous hearts. In the autumn of 1936 and at a red-blooded age, Gao Luopei gained a guqin of the Ming or Qing dynasty. After a few years, he was able to play this 7-string qin freely. This was perhaps his talent, opportunity, or a life attitude. According to legend, when Gao Luopei wanted to study with the qin master Guan Zhonghang, he specially asked Guan Zhonghang to play the music "Ping Sha Luo Yan" (Wild Geese on the Sandbank) twice, and quietly tested the playing rhythm of Guan Zhonghang.

After finding that the beats in the two performances were exactly the same, Gao Luopei admired him very much and became his apprentice immediately. The rhythm of guqin fully relied on its player. The one who could played precisely every time must be a very precise person. Such a precise attitude was exactly what Gao Luopei pursued.

It was such preciseness that truly connected Gao Luopei with the Chinese culture.

In the "Sexual Life in Ancient China", he said: "I tried my best to avoid detailedly quoting Marco Polo's remarks on the sexual life in the Yuan Dynasty. This great Venetian traveller knew Mongolian and Turkic but not Chinese. He completely regarded himself as the same class of Mongol rulers. Therefore, he was just watching the Chinese life in the perspective of a bystander." Obviously Gao Luopei believed that he was not a bystander to the Chinese culture, and that he lived like a Chinese did. In 1946, led by Xu Yuanbai, the qin players including Gao Luopei established the "Tianfeng (Heavenly Air) Qin Society" in Chongqing, and used the qin sound to inspire

the surviving Chinese people. The reason why his Sinology research was so influential undoubtedly was because his beating pulse resonated with the guqin rhythm.

消雲散。 難怪美國學者 Tannahill 認為高羅佩 此書「無論取材或立意言之，皆為無價之寶」。 因此，在高羅佩對性事如數家珍的背後， 是他對中國文化的尊敬之情，也是他對生活的

抗戰時期的重慶是一個才子佳人彙聚之

嚴肅之心。1910 年出生於荷蘭的高羅佩，五

地，以瓊瑤的《幾度夕陽紅》為代表的眾多愛

歲就來到了東方，輾轉於印尼、中國、日本等

情小說即以山城為背景。1943 年，有一對才

地，通曉十多種語言。這樣的背景使他順理成

子佳人在這裏結為連理。女的名為水世芳，是

章地成為了荷蘭在遠東的外交官。二戰時期歐

一位出身名門的新派知識女性，年芳 22；而

洲在中國的外交官很多，出入聲色場所的不少。

男的身份則多少有些複雜。他是一名外交官，

離鄉加上戰亂，可以給他們足夠的放縱理由。

又是一位學者，還是一位作家，又是一位精通

但是熟諳房中術的高羅佩卻私生活極為檢點。

國畫的收藏家。在重慶，他更是以琴癡聞名。

1943 年在重慶結婚後，水世芳一直陪伴在他

只要是朋友間的聚會，他都會懷抱古琴出門，

的身邊，直到他 1967 年去世。

在酒過三巡之後撫上一曲「高山流水」。而更

有人說高羅佩研究著俗事， 做了一個雅

重要的是，他是一個來自荷蘭的小夥子，把自

人，這無疑是個精準的評價。所研究的俗事讓

己叫做高羅佩（Robert Van Gulik）。

他聲名顯赫，而雅人之譽則讓他獲得了後人的

如今說起高羅佩通常馬上會想到的是《狄

敬服。在雅俗之間讓高羅佩始終把握住分寸的，

仁傑斷案全集》。《黃金案》、《湖濱案》、

也許是他那一把幾乎不離手的古琴。琴，禁也。

《斷指記》這樣驚心動魄的故事，無論在中國

古人撫琴，正是讓人禁止於邪以正人心。1936

還是西方都為人所津津樂道。同樣為他贏得盛

年秋，高羅佩在血氣方剛之年於宛平獲得一張

譽的是《中國古代房內考》和《秘戲圖考》，

明清古琴，幾年內便在七弦琴上撥彈自如。這

一看書名就知道講的是性愛之事。不管是殺人

也許是天賦，也許是機緣，也許是一種生活的

破案還是性愛知識，似乎都是些俗人所喜歡而

態度。相傳高羅佩在找琴人關仲航學藝之時，

難登大雅之堂的話題。作為享譽全球的漢學大

特意請關仲航彈了兩遍「平沙落雁」，而他則

師，高羅佩難道就是靠這些嚴肅學者所不屑涉

悄悄地測試關仲航在演奏時的節奏。在發現關

獵的領域，劍走偏鋒而聲名鵲起的麼？

仲航的兩次演奏節拍分毫不差後，高羅佩佩服

在《中國古代房內考》的前言中，高羅佩

得五體投地，隨之拜師。古琴的節奏靠的是琴

明確地解釋了自己對中國古代的性生活感興趣

人自己的掌握，能彈得每次都分毫不差的人，

的原因。作為一個畫家和收藏家，他將歷經戰

必然是一個極其嚴謹之人。而高羅佩追求的，

亂而流傳下來的中國古代春宮圖視為稀有的藝

正是這種嚴謹的態度。

術材料；而作為一個深受中國文化影響的學者，

這一份嚴謹讓高羅佩與中國文化真正的相

他又為西方人對中國文化的種種誤解感到痛心

通。在《中國古代房內考》中，他如是說：「我

——這些誤解之中最為常見的，就是西方人認

竭力避免詳細引證馬可·波羅（Marco Polo）

為中國人是一群性變態。因此他希望自己的研

關於元代性生活的說法。這個偉大的威尼斯旅

究「除去使人們得到這些稀有的藝術材料之外，

行家懂蒙古語和突厥語，但不懂漢語，完全把

還必須糾正外界對中國古代性生活的誤解」。

自己和那些蒙古王公看作一類人。他不過是從

對高羅佩來說，這只是糾正誤解的第一步。孔

旁觀的角度看中國人的生活。」很顯然高羅佩

孟老莊之言固然深奧，卻未免有些玄妙而讓普

相信自己對於中國文化並非一個旁觀者，而就

通的西方人無法捉摸。但是房事卻是一個共同

是像一個中國人那樣生活著。1946 年以徐元

而共通的話題，即使是對東方哲學毫無興趣的

白為首的琴人在重慶成立天風琴社，高羅佩也

西方人也願意獵奇，只要通過這一扇門打開西

在其中，用琴聲振奮劫後餘生的國人。而他的

方人對中國文化的興趣，就可能使西方人更好

漢學研究之所以有著如此影響，毫無疑問是因

地理解中國，而其他的種種誤解也就自然會煙

為他脈搏的跳動應和著古琴的節奏。

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Moutai Attracted Much Attention During Premier Li Keqiang's Visit to Britain and Greece

Premier Li Keqiang talked and shook hands with Mr. Zhang Buren, Moutai's Greek dealer 李克強總理同茅台希臘經銷商張步仁先生握手寒暄

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From June 16 to 19, 2014, Chinese Premier Li Keqiang was invited to attend the Sino-British Annual Prime Ministers' Meeting and pay an official visit to the UK and Greece. In a six-day tight schedule, Premier Li Keqiang attended more than 30 activities. During his visit, he demonstrated the stories, concepts, and proposals of China, receiving wide attention from international media and setting off an upsurge of public opinion in Europe. Its significance was far beyond the scope of bilateral relations with the visited countries, and will have a positive and far-reaching impact on the China-EU cooperation and global economy.

As a culture name card of China, Moutai appeared frequently on various occasions and attracted much attention. During Premier Li Keqiang's visit to the UK and Greece, he met with Moutai's British dealer Mr. Lin Guang and Moutai's Greek dealer Mr. Zhang Buren. As the local overseas Chinese leaders and business elites, they indicated that they would continue to promote bilateral relations and make unremitting efforts for the development and promotion of Moutai liquor in the European market. They believed that the future development of Moutai in the international market would be better and better.

Li Keqiang's visit to the UK and Greece greatly improved the understanding, respect, and popularity of China. As one of the representatives and symbols of Chinese culture, Moutai has become the best messenger in the Sino-British and Sino-Greek cultural exchanges.

(Contributed by Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co., Ltd.)

李克強總理訪問英國希臘 茅台酒備受關注 中國國務院總理李克強，於 6 月 16 日至 21 日應邀赴英國舉行中 英總理年度會晤，並對英國、希臘歐洲兩個國家進行正式訪問。短短 6 天時間，李克強總理密集出席 30 多場活動，講述中國故事，闡釋中國 理念，宣示中國主張，得到國際媒體廣泛關注，在歐洲掀起輿論熱潮。 其意義，已遠遠超出與往訪國雙邊關係的範疇，對中歐合作、乃至全 球經濟，都將產生積極而深遠的影響。 國酒茅台作為中國的文化名片，在期間頻頻亮相各種場合，備受 關注。李克強總理在訪問英國和希臘時，先後接見了國酒茅台的英國 經銷商林光先生和希臘經銷商張步仁先生。作為當地僑領和商界精英， 他們都紛紛表示，將會繼續為兩國關係的推進貢獻自己的力量，也將

countries into 89 different classifications. Many categories of spirits experienced a marked increase this year, including the Chinese signature spirit, baijiu.

Spirit entries were evaluated by 39 of the finest palates from the industry including spirits experts from noted restaurants and hotels, well-known spirits journalists from major national media, spirits distributors, and spirits consultants.

The latest list of winners included traditional spirits giants such as Johnnie Walker and Hennessy as well as some little-known characteristic brands. China's famous liquor brand Kweichow Moutai shone in this competition and won the "Best Baijiu" of the year and the "Double Gold Medal", further enhancing its international status.

(Contributed by Guizhou Moutai Chiew I/E Co., Ltd.)

會為國酒茅台在歐洲市場的發展和推廣不斷努力工作。他們深信，茅 台酒未來在國際市場的發展將會越來越好。 李克強總理對英國和希臘的訪問，大大提高了瞭解、理解、尊重 中國的認知度。而茅台酒作為中國文化的代表和符號之一，成為了中 英文化、中希文化交流的絕佳注腳。( 貴州茅台酒進出口有限責任公司 供稿 )

Moutai Won the "Best Baijiu" Prize and the "Double Gold Medal" in the San Francisco World Spirits Competition On March 20 to 23, the San Francisco World Spirits Competition hosted its 14th annual competition at Hotel Nikko in San Francisco.

The San Francisco World Spirits Competition, formerly known as the "Panama Pacific International Exposition" that was established since 1915, is the first comprehensive, international, and authoritative spirits competition in the world. With numerous categories and global participators, the competition is held annually in the United States and has gained a reputation as the leading gauge for spirits trends and top quality products.

The 2014 Competition received more entries than ever before. Distillers and importers submitted 1,474 spirits from 64

茅台榮獲三藩市世界烈酒大賽年度 最佳白酒及雙金特獎 3 月 20 日 到 23 日， 第 14 屆 美 國 三 藩 市 世 界 烈 酒 大 賽 (World Spirits Competition) 在三藩市 Nikko 賓館舉行。 美國三藩市烈性酒大賽，前身是 1915 年開始舉辦的「巴拿馬萬 國博覽會」（也稱「三藩市博覽會」），是世界範圍內第一個綜合性， 國際性和權威性的烈性酒評比大賽，同時也是一項涵蓋品類豐富、具 備全球參與性的烈性酒評比大賽，每年在美國舉辦一次，其評選結果 經常被業界視為市場趨勢的風向標。 今年，共有來自 64 個國家 89 個種類的 1474 款烈酒參評，數目 創歷史新高，是近 14 年來規模最大的一次比賽。許多種類的烈酒參評 數量明顯增加，其中包括中國的標誌性烈酒—白酒。 39 位來自著名餐廳、酒店、主流媒體烈酒評論家、烈酒經銷商及 烈酒顧問等專業評委對參賽烈酒進行了品評。 在最新公佈的獲獎名單中，不乏 Johnnie Walker、Hennessy 等 傳統洋酒巨頭，也有一些名不見經傳的特色品牌的身影。而參與競爭 的中國著名白酒品牌貴州茅台在此次比賽中大放異彩，一舉拿下年度 最佳白酒以及雙金特獎兩大重要獎項，打出了國際地位。（貴州茅台 酒進出口有限責任公司供稿）

Moutai won the "Best Baijiu" prize of the year and the "Double Gold Medal" in the 14th San Francisco World Spirits Competition 在第 14 屆美國三藩市世界烈酒大賽中，茅台榮獲年度最佳白酒及雙金特獎

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Guest representatives and Moutai leaders jointly pushed the start lever to officially launch the commemorative activities 嘉賓代表與公司領導共同推動寓意吉祥的啟動杆，宣告茅台「金獎百年」系列紀念活動正式啟動

Moutai Started Series of Activities to Commemorate the 100th Anniversary of Winning Gold Prize On July 9, in the theme of "With World-Renowned Centurial Aroma, Witness the National Revival", the launching ceremony and press conference for Kweichow Moutai's series of activities to commemorate the 100th anniversary of winning the Gold Prize were held grandly at the China Art Palace in Shanghai.

More than 300 distinguished guests, including world-renowned movie star Jackie Chan and famous cultural scholar Yu Dan, attended the ceremony. Moutai Group leaders, including Yuan Renguo, Chen Min, Liu Zili, Ji Keliang, Zhao Shuyue, Fang Guoxing, Du Guangyi, and Luo Shuangquan attended the celebrations.

In the press conference, Mr. Yuan Renguo, Chairman of Moutai Group and Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd. pointed out that this series of commemorative activities would further consolidate and enhance Moutai's status as "the No. 1 distilled liquor brand in the world", and Moutai would continue to advance with the times, constantly burst with vitality, become the most influential liquor enterprise in the world, develop new advantages in the world market for Chinese liquor, and establish new status for Chinese liquor in the world.

This activity reviewed Moutai's journey towards the world as the representative of Chinese liquor brands and actively explored the development path of Moutai in the current transition and adjustment period of the liquor industry. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Gold Prize, Moutai Group will launch a series of cultural activities such as publishing books, collecting photographic works,

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hosting poetry gathering, and organizing performances, hold a series of traditional culture lectures, forums, and fairs for industry exchanges, carry out public welfare activities of helping students, and publicize the Chinese liquor culture overseas. (Reported and photographed by Mo Shaoting and Wang Yuan)

茅台金獎百年系列紀念活動啟動 7 月 9 日， 以「香飄世界百年，相伴民族復興」為主題的貴州茅 台酒金獎百年系列紀念活動啟動儀式暨新聞發佈會在中華藝術宮隆重 舉行。 國際著名影星成龍，著名文化學者于丹等 300 余位嘉賓出席觀禮。 茅台集團公司領導袁仁國、陳敏、劉自力、季克良、趙書躍、房國興、 杜光義、羅雙全等參加慶祝活動。 發佈會上，茅台集團及貴州茅台酒股份有限公司董事長袁仁國指 出，集團公司「金獎百年」系列紀念活動的開展，將進一步鞏固和提 升茅台酒「世界蒸餾酒第一品牌」的地位，茅台將不斷與時俱進，不 斷煥發勃勃生機，成為最具國際影響力的白酒企業，構築中國白酒在 世界市場的新優勢，樹立中國白酒在世界的新地位。 該次活動回顧了以茅台為代表的中國白酒品牌走向世界的歷程， 積極探尋白酒行業轉型調整時期的發展路徑。為紀念獲獎 100 周年， 茅台集團將推出包括出版書籍、徵集攝影作品、舉辦詩會、組織演出 等系列文化活動，舉辦傳統文化系列講座、論壇、博覽會開展行業交 流，開展助學公益活動，還將在海外舉辦中國白酒文化宣傳活動。（莫 紹婷 王媛 攝影報導）

Moutai's French Château Loudenne Signed Global Tax-Free Agent Agreement With Camus In the morning of September 9, 2014, the ceremony for Moutai's French Château Loudenne to sign a global tax-free agent agreement with the French Camus company was held in Guiyang.

10 years ago, Moutai Group and Camus began their cooperation.

As the sole agent, Camus arranged special sections in its global taxfree stores to globally promote the "small batch blend" Moutai liquor, which at that time was the first time for a Chinese liquor brand to enter the global tax-free market. Through the powerful market network and mature management experience of Camus, Kweichow Moutai further expanded the international tax-free market and provided opportunities for more consumers worldwide to feel the charm of Chinese liquor.

Founded in 1863 and after painstaking efforts of five generations, Camus has become the largest family enterprise in the industry and owns the world's top leading tax-free sales network as well as more than 4,000 worldwide tax-free stores.

In 2013, Moutai Group successfully acquired the French Château Loudenne in Bordeaux, a "Cru Bourgeois" Château with a history of over 300 years, and truly began Moutai's international layout of producing alcoholic beverages.

Moutai's Château Loudenne once again joined hands with Camus and Camus will become the global tax-free agent for the products of Château Loudenne. This successful signing will further promote the future win-win cooperation of both sides in the construction of sales network and the expansion of product market, renewing the glory and legend of Sino-French strategic partnership in the new field.

"International Chinese Media's Journey to Colourful Guizhou" Approached Moutai On July 11, several media including the Macau Monthly (from Macau) and the United Chinese Press (from New Zealand) formed a group named "International Chinese Media's Journey to Colourful Guizhou" to approach Moutai and explore the magical charm of Moutai culture.

They received warm reception from Gao Shouhong, deputy general manager of Moutai Group and Yang Fengxiang, general manager assistant of Moutai Group.

The media group visited Moutai's National Liquor Culture City to learn about the unique making technique as well as the profound history and culture of Moutai. Li Fang, executive editor-in-chief for the Sino-French bilingual website of Chine En Direct (from France), said: Immediately after we get off the car, a fresh Jiang fragrance is greeting us; on the way of our visit, Moutai's profound history and culture greet us as well, just as the refreshing Jiang fragrance; Moutai deserves its name of national liquor. Wang Dingchang, president of the Macau News Agency, said: During this visit to Moutai, I see that Moutai not only protects the environment well but also has very ambitious future planning; as Chinese, we feel proud, and as overseas media, we should regard Moutai as national treasure and enhance the overseas propaganda for Moutai. (Reported and photographed by Song Lang)

茅台法國海瑪酒莊與法國卡慕公司 全球免稅代理成功簽約 2014 年 9 月 9 日上午，茅台集團法國海瑪酒莊與法國卡慕公司全 球免稅代理簽約儀式在貴陽成功舉行。 十年前，茅台集團與卡慕酒業就開始結緣合作，卡慕在全球免稅 店開設專區，獨家代理茅台專門為海外免稅市場推出的「小批量勾兌茅 台」產品的國際推廣業務，這在當時是中國酒業品牌首次進入全球免稅

The international Chinese media group visited the Culture City 世界華文媒體採訪團在茅台國酒文化城參觀

「多彩貴州 ·世界華文媒體貴州行」走進茅台

市場。通過卡慕酒業強大的市場網路以及成熟的管理經驗，貴州茅台

7 月 11 日，澳門《澳門月刊》、新西蘭《聯合報》等多家媒體組成

酒進一步佔領了國際免稅市場，從而使全球更多消費者有機會感受到

的「多彩貴州·世界華文媒體貴州行」走進茅台，探秘茅台文化的神奇

了中國國酒的魅力。

魅力。茅台集團公司黨委委員、副總經理高守洪，總經理助理楊鳳祥

卡慕酒業創辦於 1863 年，經過五代人的苦心經營，已經成為行業 內最大的家族企業，旗下擁有全球排名領先的免稅產品銷售網路和遍 及全球的 4000 多家免稅店管道。

熱情接待了採訪團一行。 採訪團參觀了茅台國酒文化城，詳細瞭解了茅台酒獨特的釀造工 藝和厚重的歷史文化。法國《直觀中國》中法雙語網執行主編黎芳說，

2013 年，茅台集團在法國波爾多成功收購了已有三百多年歷史的

下車以後，第一個就是嗅覺上的感覺，一股清新的醬香撲鼻而來；參

中級明星酒莊 - 海瑪酒莊，使得茅台品牌酒類產品的生產製造，第一次

觀途中，茅台的歷史文化猶如這沁人心脾的醬香撲面而來，悠遠而厚

開始了真正的國際化佈局。

重，茅台不愧為中國的國酒。澳門新聞通訊社社長王定昌表示，此次

卡慕酒業集團和茅台集團法國海瑪酒莊再一次牽手，卡慕酒業將

來到茅台，看到茅台不僅把環境保護得很好，未來的規劃也很宏偉。

成為茅台法國海瑪酒莊產品全球免稅代理。這次簽約成功，勢必會使

作為中國人，我們感到驕傲和自豪，作為海外的傳媒，我們應當把茅

雙方未來在銷售網路建設和產品市場拓展方面取得進一步的合作共贏，

台作為國寶，加大茅台在海外的宣傳力度。 （宋浪 攝影報導）

再續中法戰略合作夥伴在新領域的輝煌和傳奇。

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With World-Renowned Centurial Aroma, Witness the National Revival 香飄世界百年 相伴民族復興 TEXT/ 文：Peggy TRANSLATION/ 譯：Billy Yung

Common Moutai Series

Millesimes Moutai Series

Moutai Liquor 53% & 43% Vol

80-Year-Old Moutai

50-Year-Old Moutai

30-Year-Old Moutai

15-Year-Old Moutai

Alcohol content: 53% & 43% Vol

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Country of production: China

Country of production: China

S

ince 1915 when being unveiled to the world for the first time, Moutai has won legendary praise from the world and started the journey towards the world for Chinese liquor. Over a century, Kweichow Moutai has inherited the tradition, adhered to quality, and witnessed the changes of times through its immortal classic. Today, as a world-renowned distilled liquor brand, Kweichow Moutai provides diversified series products for you to savour this mellow bouquet that is full of oriental charm.

Feitian Moutai is a classic of Moutai, with two specifications: 53% Vol and 43% Vol. As the leading product and a classic of Chinese Jiang fragrance liquor, the 53% Vol Feitian

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Country of production: China

Country of production: China

Moutai features prominent Jiang fragrance, elegant, delicate, mellow, long aftertaste, and lasting empty-cup fragrance.

The Millesimes Moutai series inherit and perfect Moutai's unique style. Aged Moutai liquor of specific years uses a liquor aged at least 15 years as base, which is then blended with liquors made in different years (strictly selected by liquor-making masters), with different stages, fragrance types, liquor types to produce different classes of aged Moutai liquor with a rich mouthfeel. Generally speaking, according to age and quality, the aged Moutai liquor can be categorised into four classes: 15-year, 30-year, 50-year, and 80-year.

Country of production: China

With individuality, the Gift series are the result of careful and small-batch blending of strictly selected base liquors with different ages, stages, fragrance types, and liquor types. Packed in different bottles and boxes, each type of Gift Moutai shows its distinctive temperament.

The Jiang Fragrance series inherit the most traditional as well as the most authentic taste and spirit of Moutai, absorb the fashion inspiration of the times, and involve diversified values (concepts). They are a series of young products with diversified appearances and consistently excellent quality.

Moutai Product Description Gift Moutai Series

Luxury Golden/

Muzhen

Luxury Crimson

Country of production: China

Country of production: China

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Diancang (Classic Collection)

Jackie Chan Moutai, Collector's Edition

Zhizhen

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Country of production: China

Country of production: China

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Country of production: China

Jiang Fragrance Series

Ren (Benevolence) Liquor

Country of production: China

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Han Jiang

Country of production: China

Alcohol content: 51% Vol

Moutai Prince Liquor

Country of production: China

Alcohol content: 53% Vol

Moutai Ying Bin Liquor

Country of production: China

Alcohol content: 53% Vol